Scratch Magazine November 2022 by scratchmagazine

2022 COLLECTION

COLORWORLD CAPTIVATE WITH COLOR

MAPLE LEAVES

LOVE LETTER

RUNNING LATTE

WE WANT MAUVE

PETAL PARTY

ROSEMANCE

TOFFEE TALK

ABOVE MY PAY GRAY-ED

MULBERRY TART

VINTAGE BLUE JEANS

FROSTED SEAGLASS

GILDED SAGE

ALL FROTHED UP

BACKYARD NUPTIALS

Introducing the newest and largest collection from CND™ to date: COLORWORLD. This lively palette of mesmerising hues encourages the artist to use their wildest imagination to create the ultimate manicure and pedicure design. Available in both CND™ SHELLAC™ Brand Gel Polish and CND™ VINYLUX™ Long Wear Polish.

AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT Distributed exclusively in the UK and Ireland with Love and Respect

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Nineteen years of... ®

Issue 235 Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writers Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk Rebecca Hitchon rebecca.hitchon@scratchmagazine.co.uk Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jess.wilkie@scratchmagazine.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Co-founder Alex Fox Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

T: +44 (0) 1959 547 000 ISSN 2635-0327 Contributors Sam Marshall, Annabel Maginnis, Jacqui O’Sullivan, Sadie Jordan, Alex Fox, Caroline Rainsford, Theresa Cientanni

is awaiting the s I write, the UK nister; a new Prime Mi of t en appointm o will wh s, th on m e re its third in just th its of t ou the nation hopefully steer rrying wo a It’s . oil l turm current financia na professio lly, personally and time for all, both l and mediums high and smal with energy price the brunt of ing ar s seemingly be se es , sin bu ed siz cisions. This issue t’s budgetary de d an sy bu y the governmen sta you to not only help at of th d we share ideas an – g ein wellb ort your mental ason, but supp vigated. na e profitable this se ar es tim ese treacherous your staff – as th as season in lucrative Christm king forward to a loo e products. il u’r ta yo re pe While we ho e to capitalise on tim s thi e us options to forget t, and there are the salon, don’t e your hourly profi as re retailing inc ct uld gle co ne s n’t Offering gift item m page 44. Do fro s et dg bu d s sizes an be ‘selling’ at the to suit all busines you may already as ll, se rd ha ed to take a olves u use. You just ne by thinking it inv t the products yo ou ab lk ta u yo till. nail desk when purchase at the d get clients to the next step an ents capture new cli portune time to op an New – the ing of ar ’ ne o in the ‘slow spell Black Friday is als ment books busy ts, int en po m ap int ur po yo ap their who can keep ents cancelling ess with u frustrated by cli elf and your busin urs yo ct Year. And are yo te Pro s? ng rni ea on t ou e 86. meaning you los allenges on page anaging such ch our top tips for m r and gloom for ou it’s not all doom , ing ap sh s in s ed y ne great succes While the econom ve been enjoying its members ha of h Shoot Out and ny tc Ma ra . Sc try t us ea ind s, such as The Gr on titi pe m co l ments this issue. internationa te their achieve and we celebra , on nd Lo pia Nailym m t to ins pir e, inf or an d fin d co nt en s ge n- fill ed pa fu r e ou th in ch as we ap pr oa Im m er se yo urs elf nt y of ha pp ine ss ple ite ign lly fu an d ho pe fe sti ve se as on . Until next month,

Do you need to renew or update your Scratch subscription? Call +44 (0) 1580 883 844

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COVER CREDITS Images courtesy of Salon System Gellux Shades shown are So Much Drama, All The Rage, Velvet Vixen, Wicked Game, Bitten Berry, How Bizarre, All Fired Up & Cupid’s Kiss from the Gellux Colour Me Crazy collection. Available via wholesalers nationwide. www.salonsystem.com

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.olympiabeauty.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2022 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

Photographer: Elena Gelberg @pena_litrova Make-up artist: Varvara Tabutarova /varvara.tabutarova @varvara_tabu Nail stylist: Elena Popova /elena.popova.965580 & /nailfp @popovaelena_nfp & @nailfp Model: Polina Khvatik @tvoi_ananasichek Assistant & Elena’s business partner: Natalia Galinova /natalia.galinova @ngalinovaa

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Contents NOVEMBER 2022

FEATURES 18 A Sculptural Sensation 26 Dealing With Diabetes

Expand your knowledge on diabetes & how it affects treatment techniques for nails & feet

30 The Great Scratch Shoot Out: Winners Revealed

Get to know the techs behind the winning images in Scratch’s annual photographic nail competition

40 Nails On Film

Popular skincare YouTuber, James Welsh, spills details about his journey into nail styling & shares his favourite snaps

44 Festive Treats For Body, Hands & Feet

Make the most of retail opportunities this season with Christmas & party product picks & advice on making sales

52 Deals For Digits

Incentivise clients & increase takings with top tips for making the most of Black Friday

56 Fashion Week Focus

Check out the trends that stormed the spring/summer 2023 runways at Fashion Weeks worldwide

66 Mindful Work Models

Be inspired by initiatives fellow pros have adopted to improve employee & client wellbeing

76 Nailympia London: The Results

Discover who scooped top titles at the London edition of Nailympia, which returned to a live format after a two-year hiatus

86 Cancel Culture

Nailists share their cancellation policies & serve up tips for dealing with tricky situations

90 Should You Remove?

Scratch chats to techs about points to consider when removing enhancements applied by others

76 REGULARS

10 20 22 24 36 54 58 62 64 68 70 72 74 88 92 96 98

Nail Nation Calendar Girl The Hot List The Scratch Scoop The Cosmetic Climate Style With Sadie Just Add Glitter Notes From The Beauty Guru Tech Talk Product Spotlight Tech For Techs Readers Gallery Through The Keyhole The Force Of The Feds Business Matters Nail Clippings Fingernails In Focus

Photo by Thomas Concordia/Getty Images for The Blonds

Learn about the artist that influenced this month’s glass art-inspired cover nails & the nail pro behind their creation

Earn & Spend NSI Reward Points

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WIN £1000 £500 or £250 CASH! How to Enter: 1. Download the NSI Nails App. 2. Log in or Create An Account. 3. Order our FREE product guide. It’s that easy! You’ll automatically be entered into the draw to win one of 3 cash prizes PLUS you’ll get a 10% oﬀ discount code! Entry closes on the 16th December and is limited to one entry per customer. Winners will be announced on the 19th December 2022. Full terms and conditions available on the app.

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0800 881 8469 | www.nsinails.co.uk Proudly Supplying and Supporting UK Nail Professionals Since 1992 Share your creations #nsinails #nsiuk @nsiukltd

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Nail NATION

business

news & views

Tax measures announced in UK government growth plan to be reversed Chancellor, Jeremy Hunt MP, has announced the overturning of tax measures introduced in Kwasi Kwateng’s ‘mini-budget’. The cut to National Insurance and Stamp Duty will go ahead, but the 1p cut to Income Tax and VAT-free shopping scheme for non-UK visitors will be scrapped. The basic rate of income tax will remain at 20%. On the reversal, Victoria Brownlie, chief policy officer at the British Beauty Council, comments: “This constant flip-flopping makes it impossible for businesses to plan or build contingencies for the year ahead. We need stability. “If the government is determined to push ahead with an increase in Corporation Victoria Brownlie Tax, then they must be prepared to extend support on energy bills post-31 March 2023, especially for high energy-using businesses like salons and spas that cannot simply cut down their use. Otherwise, businesses are faced with an imperfect storm of wage rises, tax increases and a huge jump in energy costs at a time when they’ve barely come up for air since the pandemic. This will be untenable for many. “The announcement neglects the reality that shops, salons and other businesses pay wages and upskill workforces. Without them, the government will be in much greater trouble.” Brownlie goes on to suggest that the government should work with businesses, particularly small and micro businesses, to understand how to achieve desired growth. www.britishbeautycouncil.com

Nails Expo brings 5,000 techs together in Puerto Rico The first edition of The Nails Expo was celebrated 2 & 3 October at the Puerto Rico Convention Center. Over 5,000 nail techs, artists and fanatics attended to see more than 65 brands showcase their services and products, including Cuccio. The Expo offered more than 30 education and business workshops across the two days. It also provided photo opportunities to support social media posts and held live demonstrations. The main stage hosted guests including Marilyn Olemma, Cuccio’s educational director, celebrity nail artist, Natalia Paola Calderón (aka @queenflorii), and Michelle Soto (@chellys_nails) who boasts over 390,000 followers on Instagram. www.thenailsexpo.com

10 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NHBF evaluates state of the sector in survey findings The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) has revealed the results of its State of the Industry survey, which quizzed 670 members of the personal care sector about their business. The results, which were compared to its July survey, found: • The number of businesses confident in their survival is down to 49%, dropping from 64%. • The proportion of businesses making a loss has not increased, but fewer businesses are making a profit – just 35% of those quizzed, down from 44% in July. • The number of businesses breaking even is up from 36% to 46%. • From July-September 2022, 51% of businesses surveyed raised their prices, and a further 65% will do so over the next three months. • Reliance on external support has increased, with 74% of businesses either partially or completely reliant on government support, up from 50% in July, although not quite as high as January’s 81%. • For half of businesses, energy costs have increased by 40% or more. • Debt levels are rising again, with 54% of businesses in debt, back to levels last seen in January. 42% of businesses in debt report that the amount of debt they are carrying has increased. 58% believe it will take them more than two years to clear. • In the next three months, only 12% of the survey respondents are definitely or likely to take on new staff (down from 27% in July). Richard Lambert, chief executive of the NHBF says, “Many hair and beauty businesses are teetering on the edge of survival. A range of indicators including business activity, rising prices, rising debt, reliance on government support, uncertainty Richard Lambert around survival and a dip in growth aspirations all signal a shift towards a more negative outlook. “Businesses have benefitted from an array of support from the UK and devolved governments over the last two years, most recently in the form of the Energy Price Guarantee. However, further support will be needed through the winter and beyond, and we are talking to the government about how best to address this.” www.nhbf.co.uk

Snuggle up with our new collection of winter colours in a range of cozy reds and soothing greens

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TOASTY

business

Nail NATION Report reveals growth & value of UK’s professional nailcare market Market research company, Kline, has revealed that the professional nailcare market grew by 3.4% from 2020 to 2021, reaching £42 million. “The growth was ascribed to the limited period of reopening of salons during the frequent lockdowns and imposed restrictions,” the report reads. “Most marketers restocked their inventory in 2021 as salons reopened, which led to a subsequent surge in industry sales, however some others used the leftover inventory from before 2020. “The country market continued to witness an allergy epidemic, followed by a shortage of staff in salons and growth in the DIY nailcare industry, which proved to have a dampening impact on the overall professional nailcare market in 2021.” Care products grew by 4.8%, attributed to the need for consumers to undo damages caused by DIY products during lockdowns. Gel products witnessed a 9.1% growth, ‘primarily driven by the reopening of salons and a shift in consumer preference over traditional and long-wear nail polishes to gel polishes, which last longer.’ The report continues: “Many marketers have reported having witnessed stellar growth in the first two months of 2022. Therefore, it’s highly likely that most brands will close or even surpass the 2019 sales level in 2022. Cruelty-free and planet-friendly products will continue to trend during the forecast period.” www.klinegroup.com

UK EDUCATORS EXPAND FOOTLOGIX KNOWLEDGE AT EVENT IN BELGIUM Educators at Louella Belle, UK distributor of Footlogix, travelled to Belgium alongside Suzanne Clayton, Louella Belle’s brand development manager, for a Footlogix ‘Train The Trainer’ event in the city of Ghent. Over two days, Suzanne and the team joined 75 other educators from 19 countries. They attended demonstrations, Q&As and product knowledge training for the professional footcare brand, which is developed by Katherin von Gavel, an authority in medi-pedi. Educators, Clare Hoosen, Claire Harris, Sharon Baker and Metta Francis refreshed their knowledge of Footlogix products and techniques and returned to the UK ready to take training bookings. Visit www.louellabelle.academy to sign up for Footlogix training.

NSI UK launches mobile app to enhance shopping experience NSI UK’s mobile app, available on Apple and Android devices, has launched to offer quick, clear access to product information (SDS), inspirational ideas, seasonal trends, video tutorials and products to purchase. Featuring a fast checkout option, the app allows you to scan products that need replenishing to add them to your basket. In addition, NSI is unveiling offers exclusive to app users, as well as the opportunity to collect one NSI reward point for every £50 net spent, with each point valued at £1, which can be redeemed on future app purchases. The NSI UK app also lists the company’s training courses and free classes. Bookings can be made directly through the app. To download, search NSI Nails UK on the App Store or Google Play.

Digital marketing & wellness programmes added to Business Owners Retreat 2023 International salon business expert, Liz McKeon, has announced the addition of wellness and digital marketing sessions to her Business Owners Retreat at the five-star Princesa Yaiza Resort in Lanzarote. The business growth event is an intensive, intimate and handson group coaching experience that promises to change the way businesses are operated. The week-long event, 14-21 January, combines workshops, coaching, mentoring, wellness sessions, networking events and excursions, and is sponsored by booking software brand, Timely. New for 2023 is an afternoon digital marketing session led by PR and marketing expert, Alison Jameson, founder of AJC93. The session aims to dispel many of the myths surrounding digital marketing and provide delegates with the tools to create successful marketing campaigns. The retreat will also include morning beach meditations with Kalm Horizons, which combines simple breathwork, aromatherapy, mindfulness, affirmations, sound therapy and wave meditations. To apply for ‘2023, Your Best Year Yet, Business Owners Retreat’, visit www.lizmckeon.com/pages/business-owners-retreat-1

Nailberry sells to Silverwood Brands for £6m Nail polish brand, Nailberry, has been acquired by London-based investment company, Silverwood Brands, with founder Sonia Hully, retaining the role of director. Nailberry, which trades under the name NBY London Ltd, was founded by Hully in 2013 and began as a luxury nail bar in Chelsea, London. Its first range of nail polish launched in 2014 with a ‘clean’ and ethical ethos. Hully comments: “I am very excited that Nailberry is joining the Silverwood family. I personally remain fully committed to the ethical principles upon which I developed the brand. I very much look forward to working with Andrew [Gerrie, executive director at Silverwood Brands] and the Silverwood team to continue to grow Nailberry in the UK and internationally, and to expand the Silverwood portfolio with other promising brands.” www.nailberry.co.uk 12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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Nail NATION Tom Daley announced as Rimmel’s first global male ambassador Olympic diver, Tom Daley, has been appointed as Rimmel’s first global male ambassador, supporting the brand’s mission to ‘break down beauty boundaries’. The gold medallist and world champion will join fellow Rimmel ambassador, Adwoa Aboah, in fronting Rimmel London’s Match Perfection Foundation range, which ‘uses Smart Tone Technology and matches 99% of skin tones.’ “I am delighted to be Rimmel’s first global male ambassador,” Daley comments. “Regardless of gender, everyone should be able to look and feel the best version of themselves and it’s great to see that this diversity is happening in the beauty industry.” Celebrity nail artist, Stephanie Staunton, created a patriotic nail look on Daley using Rimmel products to mark the launch of the campaign. Of the partnership, Sarah Al Shohaib, Rimmel senior VP, comments: “We are proud of our mission to prioritise diversity and inclusion and feel honoured to have Tom as our first global male ambassador. As a world-class athlete and an advocate for mental health and LGBTQI+ rights, Tom is a powerful role model. By working together, we aspire to encourage greater beauty, acceptance and self-expression for everyone.” www.rimmellondon.com

TGB introduces first advent calendar The GelBottle Inc has launched 12 Days Of BIAB™, its first advent calendar. It features a new Mini BIAB™ shade in each of the 12 boxes, housed in a nail desk-friendly calendar. In addition, each advent calendar includes a TGB Golden Ticket, where everyone is a winner. Top prizes include a TGB Mystery Bundle worth £500, the entire BIAB™ range and support from TGB up to the value of £10,000. Limited calendars are available via www.thegelbottle.com Hand-tiques is offering its handy nail dryer for £49.95 while stocks last. It features an electronic timer with variable settings (30 secs to three mins), with touch sensitive start and stop buttons. Inside the dryer is a specially shaped hand mould for effective drying and to aid client comfort. To order, call 07768200297 or email gunnell22main@hotmail.com.

Special offer

INDUSTRY ICONS JOIN FORCES TO CREATE 2023 CALENDAR The Hair & Beauty Charity, the official charity for the hair and beauty sectors, has unveiled its 2023 calendar – with a host of industry names behind its imagery. Sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, the calendar is a fundraising initiative curated by the team at hair salon brand, Hooker & Young. It features 12 images shot by award-winning hair photographer, Michael Young, with hair styling by the likes of Errol Douglas MBE, Tim Scott Wright and Sally Brookes. “We had such a great day shooting the calendar,” Young comments. “It was fantastic to be able to work with some of our closest friends and the most respected hairdressers in the industry, giving them the opportunity to get creative for a good cause.” The calendar is £15, available via www.hairandbeautycharity.org/shop

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES Scratch Stars Session Stylist of the Year 2017, Kate Cutler, is now represented by Premier Hair & Make-up. Londonbased Kate, whose work has appeared in the likes of Wonderland and Dazed magazines, joins fellow manicurists Jenni Draper, Anatole Rainey and Jada-Elize Lorentz on the agency’s roster. Follow Kate on Instagram: @bangbangnails 14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Light Elegance has debuted two shades from its Lexy Line and JimmyGel enhancement systems, offering a balance of strength and flexibility to suit an even wider range of skin tones. Both semi-opaque, Cashmere is a brown neutral with a touch of pink, and Delicate Peach is a pink-brown shade with a peach undertone. Available via www.sweetsquared.com

CACI has announced a refresher training course at its head office in Elstree. It is designed for therapists previously trained and certified by CACI who feel they need some additional support when performing the CACI Signature Non-Surgical Facial Toning Treatment. www.cacibeauty.com/new-refresher-training

E DIARY DATES FOR TH ve nail

Izabelle Hammon Ltd shares 6 shades for autumn/winter

Five days of intensi 21 education kick off on November at Shepreth Wildlife Park, NAIL I Cambridge. Nail SAFAR is hosted by Safari – Paw & Claw Nippard and nie Jen M, BE Marian Newman l educators globally renowned nai Alex Fox, and presents ide, there will be ngs Alo s. que hni tec nail showcasing an array of opportunities. ng rki wo llenges and net zoo experiences, fun cha Safari’ on, search for ‘Nail For more informati on Facebook.

5 21-2 BER M NOVE

Izabelle Hammon Ltd has released the Fashion Forward collection; six stylish shades for autumn/ winter available in Calgel and Pro Colour formulas. Delivered in eco-friendly packaging that is reusable and fully recyclable, the elegant and on-trend hues are vegan-friendly and cruelty-free. The shades in the Fashion Forward collection are: Alla Moda – a warm, creamy neutral with brown undertones. Catwalk – a cool, deep pink. Vogue – a bold scarlet red. Knightsbridge – a medium/dark blue with teal undertones. So Chic – a grey-toned lilac with subtle shimmer. Coco – a rich, warm chocolate brown. Available via www.izabellehammon.com

An American tradition, lly Black Friday traditiona the of rt sta depicts the K Christmas shopping BLAC Y mark it with discounts A D season, and businesses I R F of bargains on mustage and deals. Take advant and ducts for your business have nail and beauty pro e pag to n Tur . day Fri ck rs to clients on Bla . nds bra l promote your own offe nai m nts fro and to check out discou 52 for tips and advice, a and Krisztina Újvári, rian nail stylists, Barbar Hunga pros ‘ 9 bootcamp to help nail are hosting a four-day 26-2 BER t level. nex the to M lls ski E nal sio NOV take their profes ng the following: WINS The duo will be coveri T L I g with Barbara NA CAMP ntin pai Day 1: Landscape BOOT Day 2: Combined salon ina techniques with Kriszt Barbara h wit g ntin pai t Day 3: Realistic portrai Krisztina h wit with effects Day 4: Extreme shapes ge via ssa me ect dir a d To book a space, sen‘ ls. nai NS /UB om k.c www.faceboo

25 ER MB NOVE

CIATÉ LONDON COLLABORATES WITH IRIS APFEL FOR NAIL & BEAUTY COLLECTION Ciaté London has collaborated with 101-year-old American business woman, fashion icon and interior designer, Iris Apfel, on an eight-piece nail and beauty collection, inspired by her iconic looks. Iris Apfel retired in 1991 from working at the textile firm she shared with her husband, and signed a modelling contract aged 97. Her Ciaté collection includes nail wraps featuring a colour-clashing design, three statement shade lipsticks, two pigmented eyeshadow palettes, a hot pink make-up bag and an aqua hand-held mirror. The launch of the collection was marked at Nordstrom’s NYC flagship, where Iris was joined by guests including Ciaté London founder, Charlotte Knight, Lizzie Savetsky of The Real Housewives of New York City, and fashion and beauty influencers. The Ciaté London x Iris Apfel collection is available via www.ciatelondon.com

Salon System doubles Gellux Builder Gel range Three neutral shades; Bare Natural, Diamond Pink and Warm Pink, and a Clear Builder Gel have been added to the existing Salon System Gellux Builder Gel range. The products join Cool White, Light Pink, Rose Pink and Light Natural in supporting natural nails and masking imperfections such as ridges and bumps. “I love Gellux Builder Gels as they offer a great way to add extra strength to natural nails and they feel super light,” comments Salon System Gellux expert, Julie-Anne Larivière. “With the addition of these four products, techs now have an even wider selection of shades to offer clients.” Salon System Gellux products are available via wholesalers nationwide.

Clawgasmic shares free resource to support nail pros Chantelle Vermont, co-founder of nail art community, Clawgasmic, has created a free resource for nail techs, titled ‘7 Little Known Nail Hacks Every Nail Tech Must Know To Earn More & Stress Less’. The downloadable pdf is available via www.clawgasmic.com, and those that download will also receive daily motivational emails. “I want to help techs to earn more, stress less and thrive in their business,” Chantelle reveals. “The pdf features tips and advice I wish I’d known as a beginner nail tech, and in the daily emails I will share stories from my career as well as uplifting anecdotes and pieces of advice.” Watch our interview with Chantelle about Clawgasmic and the resource by scanning here

Anna Brightman, co-founder of UpCircle Beauty, has made the Hurun UK Under 30s 2022, a list of the 100 leading young entrepreneurs aged 30 or under in the UK. The ethical cosmetics company formulates skincare products from recycled, natural ingredients such as waste ground coffee, generating annual sales of over £1 million. www.upcirclebeauty.com

NailKind has launched two shades for autumn/winter; Soul Sister, a midnight blue hue, and Susan Rover, a dark racing green. Easy to apply, the formula is made from up to 85% bio-sourced ingredients such as sugarcane, cotton and corn. Available via www.nailkind.com.

Studex, provider of piercing training and products, raised £1,600 for The Motoneuron Disease Charity at Olympia Beauty last month. The team charged customers £10 to get their ears pierced, with full proceeds donated to the charity. www.studexuk.com SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 15

Gelish® and Morgan Taylor® are thrilled to introduce the I Wanna Dance Collection in collaboration with the much-anticipated theatrical release, “I Wanna Dance With Somebody”. The collection features a range of six gorgeous shades inspired by the beauty, charisma, and life of the iconic superstar.

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VISIT

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COMMAND THE STAGE

A Color for Every Star

HM-15018

COVERSTORY

sensation

A SCULPTURAL Discover the artistic inspiration & passionate nail pro behind this month’s cover, as REBECCA HITCHON gets the behind-the-scenes scoop on the shoot

hen speaking to Elena Popova, the award-winning nail educator, coach, judge, author and stylist behind the nails on this issue’s cover, it’s apparent that she could write a memoir about her 23year career. From participating in the Guinness World Records competition for the fastest sculpted L&P acrylic nails (she created a French manicure on 10 nails in nine minutes, 39 seconds) to training students to become world and European champions with over 1,000 titles through her salon and academy, Nail Future Pro, the talented tech has an illustrious resumé.

In addition to her impressive achievements, Elena has been aspiring to have her work featured on the front cover of Scratch. “This is my dream and I am beyond happy that it has come true – it’s a huge motivation,” she gushes. “I want to thank Scratch’s editorial team for the amazing opportunity and Elena Popova for the work they do for nail techs. I am so excited that this image in particular is on the front cover, as I absolutely love it and feel that it perfectly conveys the concept behind it.” Elena tells Scratch that the shoot was inspired by the work of awardwinning American artist, Dale Chihuly, a pioneer of the glass art movement whose intricate and gravity-defying work is included in more than 200 museum collections globally. “I have read articles and watched films about his work and am inspired by his glass flowers that never wither, and the elegance and subtlety of their shapes. I sought to achieve the same lightness and dynamism in my work,” she reveals.

Colour context Purple is the most dominant colour in the image and the nail pro explains the reasons for this. “Purple is a rich, charismatic, creative and attentiongrabbing shade,” Elena says. “I tried many backgrounds before I chose the purple one, considering how the background colour can either convey and enhance the mood of the work, or spoil its impression and take focus away from the nails. It is also believed that only a freedom-loving person who is not afraid to show their individuality will use purple.”

Elena testing different backgrounds for the image

18 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

“I am inspired by glass flowers nail stylist pushed herself out of that never wither, The her comfort zone with a medium had previously never used to and the elegance she create the nails, opting for a dense, and subtlety of plasticine-like acrygel, on which she applied milky and transparent gel their shapes.” paint colours to create a glass effect. However, she also set herself another challenge: to create the nail design without

COVERSTORY

“Purple is a rich, charismatic, creative and attention-grabbing using a file. “Perfecting highly creative shade. It is also believed nails requires a lot of time and effort, so that only a freedomI set myself the goal of excluding filing in this process to put my skills to the test,” she loving person who is not explains, recalling how happy she was when afraid to show their she managed to achieve the desired result. individuality will But it wasn’t just technical challenges that the nail use purple.” stylist faced, as there were obstacles to overcome Elena Popova, Polina Khvatik & Varvara Tabutarova

on the shoot day. “I try not to miss any details during a photo shoot, so look at the images on a laptop as they are shot. When the studio time was over for this shoot, I found that the ‘wow factor’ shot I was seeking was still missing,” Elena admits. “The entire team was very tired and it seemed like nothing would work, but we decided to increase the studio time and finally, I saw the image I had envisioned while creating the nails!”

The nail artist credits her ‘dream team’, whom she has worked with for many years, for helping her create an image worthy of a Scratch cover. Each with their own remarkable portfolio, Elena describes the group as full of talent, passion and kindness – qualities she feels are reflected through the image. This is also clear through the fact that the team not only shot this cover image on the shoot day, but also photographed competition work by Elena’s students. “It was a noisy but fun experience, as this was the first time many students had taken part in such a process, and I wanted them to fully immerse themselves. After imparting my knowledge and only when their works were ready, I moved on to my image,” Elena reveals. “I believe it is important for an educator to constantly develop themselves so their students can surpass them in their skills: something which I am proud to have achieved,” she continues. “After all, the versatility of our profession requires a large skillset – a nail tech is not only a designer, but also a chemist, biologist, blogger and keeper of secrets!”

COVER CREDITS Photographer: Elena Gelberg @pena_litrova Make-up artist: Varvara Tabutarova /varvara.tabutarova @varvara_tabu Nail stylist: Elena Popova /elena.popova.965580 & /nailfp @popovaelena_nfp & @nailfp Model: Polina Khvatik @tvoi_ananasichek Assistant & Elena’s business partner: Natalia Galinova /natalia.galinova @ngalinovaa

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DIARYDATES

CALENDAR

GIRL

Commemorate this month’s notable dates with timely & themed products for nails, hands & feet

NOVEMBER

Nailscopes Those born in November fall under the Scorpio or Sagittarius star signs. This month encourages you to focus on your wellbeing and make time for yourself.

World Vegan Day 2

World Vegan Day celebrates the benefits of veganism for humans, animals and the environment. Consider using veganfriendly products in your mani/pedi services to show support for the lifestyle.

Evolve Organic Beauty Timeless Renewal Cuticle Oil £11.20 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk / www.evolvebeauty.co.uk

4 Bonfire Night

In need of birthday nail inspo? This Scorpio nail design comes courtesy of @realhotgurlnails.

Glittering fireworks decorate this design by @nails.by.liv.

Remember, remember, the fifth of November! Mark the occasion with some fabulous firework nail designs.

Social Media Kindness Day

Held in tribute to TV presenter, Caroline Flack, on her birthday, this day encourages us to share positivity online and be kind. Use this date as a reminder to spread the love to other nail techs in your daily practice and leave positive comments on their posts.

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Good vibes only! @thenailartbabe serves up this smiley, positive nail style.

World Television Day

Television is still the top way to consume video content, and World Television Day recognises the impact that television has on creating @ __myaa.nicole_nails recreates awareness of global situations. characters from TV classic, The Celebrate by hand-painting looks Simpsons, in this nail design. inspired by characters from your clients’ favourite TV shows.

National Espresso Day

Brew a cup of coffee and offer alongside your nail service to mark National Espresso Day. Opt for coffee-inspired shades in the drink’s honour.

Black Friday

Kick off the Christmas shopping season by bagging the best Black Friday bargains – turn to page 52 for all the deals you need to know about! Shop ‘til you drop! Black Friday-inspired nails by @izabela.wojtow_nails.

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Lecenté Create Metallic Gel Polish in Espresso £11.99 + VAT www.lecente.com / www.sweetsquared.com / www.ellisons.co.uk

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BUILDS, EXTENDS & STRENGTHENS EASE & SIMPLICITY 4 NEW SHADES

New BUILDER GELS Add strength and length to the natural nails, gel overlays, or sculpt with forms or nail tips with ease, speed and simplicity. Available at your wholesaler now.

#Gellux

www.salonsystem.com

NOW AVAILABLE IN 8 SHADES

@salonsystem

NEWPRODUCTS

Artistic Nail Design Totally Tinseled Collection from £5.95 + VAT each www.louellabelle.co.uk Balancing head-turning Christmassy nail shades with muted neutrals, this winter nail colour collection from Artistic Nail Design features six shades to suit festive spirits. The combination of shimmers, pearls and metallics are available in Colour Revolution (£5.95 + VAT), Colour Gloss (£12.95 + VAT) and Perfect Dip (£7.95 + VAT).

Jessica Million Dollar Moments Collection £5.50 + VAT/RRP £11 each www.gerrardinternational.com These three luxe glitter shades from Jessica are Christmas party-friendly and sure to dazzle on the dancefloor. Glitzy Gold, Morning Sequins and Swanky Silver are available in Custom Colour, as a Midi three-pack (£10.50 + VAT) and in GELeration (£17.75 + VAT each).

List THE HOT

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand to your services +Serumology Foot Serum £5.95 + VAT.

Margaret Dabbs PURE Overnight Hand Mask £POA/RRP £30 www.margaretdabbs.co.uk Formulated to address and stem the visible signs of ageing on the hands, this mask is an addition to the PURE vegan-friendly range and replenishes moisture. It also serves to improve skin texture by increasing hydration, elasticity and collagen levels. Also available are plant-based treatment gloves (RRP £10) to aid absorption of the mask.

Available via www.maskology.co.uk and wholesalers nationwide. This renewing, 100% plant-based foot serum uses AHAs and enzymes to break down dead skin cells and rejuvenate the skin to leave it feeling soft and refreshed. An ideal addition to a luxurious pedicure treatment or to sell as part of your retail range, the serum is designed for daily use to cleanse and rebalance.

Halo Gel Polish Winter Warmers Collection £5.49 + VAT each www.purenails.co.uk Cosy up with the six rich and festive shades in the winter collection from Halo Gel Polish. Pick from on-trend green hues, Pine, Evergreen and Sparkler, or opt for red and chocolatey tones with Robin, Mittens and Toasty. The collection is ideal for Christmas designs and looking chic in front of the fire.

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OPI Jewel Be Bold GelColor Add-On Kit £119.40 + VAT www.trade.opiuk.com Get your hands on six of the stunning 12 GelColor shades in OPI’s Holiday 2022 collection. The opulent jewel-tone palette features shimmers, pearls, metallics and eco-glitters, and the hues included in this kit are Go Big Or Go Chrome, The Pearl Of Your Dreams, Tealing Festive, Decked To The Pines, Rhinestone Red-y and Feelin’ Berry Glam.

NEWPRODUCTS

Light Elegance A Party To Remember Glitter Gel Collection £88.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com Inspired by the fun and magic of festive nights, the A Party To Remember collection from Light Elegance features 12 shades, including these six glitter hues. The likes of Paparazzi, All Dolled Up and Make It A Double are available in hard gel; individually for £18.95 + VAT each and in P+ Glitter Gel Polish for £13.95 + VAT each.

Salon System Gellux Autumn/Winter 2022 Minis £7.25 + VAT each. Available from wholesalers nationwide. Salon System has added six Gellux shades to its core mini collection, influenced by the hydrangea family of colours. The 8ml shades are Absolute Greige, Dusty Lilac, Mineral Blue, Pink Pom Pom, Plumberry and Vintage Rose. The formula offers chipresistant wear for up to 15 days when sandwiched between the Gellux Base Coat and Top Coat. Purchase two shades for £12.

Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer I Wanna Dance Collection £4.95 + VAT/RRP £9.95 each www.louellabelle.co.uk Launched in partnership with Sony Pictures to commemorate the cinema release of I Wanna Dance With Somebody, this sixpiece nail lacquer collection is inspired by the beauty, charisma and life of singer, Whitney Houston. Standout shades include Belt It Out, a violet holographic glitter, and Command The Stage, an antique bronze shimmer.

Mii Crowning Glory Collection from £6.75 + VAT/RRP £13.50 each www.gerrardinternational.com Mii has embraced the glamour of the party season with six regal nail shades, available in Colour Confidence nail polish and Statement Gel Polish (£15.50 + VAT each). Add sparkle with the glitzy Emerald Studded and Hidden Treasure shades, shimmer with Ruby Shine and Family Heirloom, and add contrast with Onyx and Diamond Chip.

INK Holo Shard Collection £16 + VAT www.inknails.com Add eye-catching sparkle to party nail designs with these five Holo Shard shades. Part of the INK Additions range, the holographic sparkle mixes are available individually or as a complete collection. Shades are Adeline (pink), Hadley (blue), Heidi (gold), Martha (gunmetal) and Penelope (silver).

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 23

p o o c s

SCRATCHSOCIAL

THE SCRATCH

Top (L-R): Helena Biggs, Jess Wilkie Bottom (L-R): Chloe Randall, Rebecca Hitchon, Callie Iley

The Scratch team offers an insight into its antics & unveils events & products from the nail & beauty realms

out b a d n a t u O

In the

MAIL... Check out the nail & beauty goodies in Scratch’s postbag this month…

NAF! PRO sent its autumn cuticle oil collection, featuring three sweet scents inspired by the beauty and change of the season. The delectable aromas are French Vanilla, a scent rich in vanilla bean; Golden Maple, a maple, caramel, toasted treacle and vanilla mix, and Spiced Apple, a blend of apple, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg and vanilla. The cuticle oils are available as dropper bottles and retail pens via www.nafprofessionals.com. Team Scratch was sent a copy of book, Nailed It! How One Woman Turned A Dream Business Into A Huge Success. Written by Jeanette Sklivanou, founder of cosmetics company, Safe ‘N’ Beautiful (home to the Snails nail polish brand for children), the book covers what entrepreneurs need to know to start a successful beauty business. Nailed It! is available via www.amazon.co.uk Watch our interview with Jeanette Sklivanou here

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BeautyPro sent a parcel to satisfy our skincare needs. It included the + Serumology Niacinamide Professional Facial Serum, designed to rebalance skin to improve texture and fight blemishes, and two 15 minute +Maskology treatments: a retinol mask to tackle signs of ageing, and a vitamin C mask to achieve a natural glow. BeautyPro products are available via www.beautypro.com.

What we’re wearing...

Art editor, Jess, visited Hazel Martin of @nailcreationsbyhazel for a stunning blue mani, with a marble effect created using Magpie Beauty and BrillBird products.

News & features writer, Callie, paid a visit to Ulgen of London salon, Kügi Beauty Bar, for full coverage tips with an iridescent silver chrome finish. Chloe headed to Truly Beauty, Tonbridge for this beautiful floral nail style. Nail artist, Aimee, used Glitterbels products to achieve the look. On her visit to Townhouse’s Liverpool Street salon, Rebecca was treated to a signature gel polish mani by tech, Grace, and opted for a seasonal chocolate brown shade.

Team Scratch was out en masse at leading trade beau ty exhibition, Olymp ia Beauty, last month, promoting magazin e subscriptions and ch atting to readers. Scratch also hosted The Nail Stage, where industry experts led free talks and demo s across the two-day event.

Scratch Stars Mobile Nailist of the Year 2022, Clare Woodcock, presenting business advice on The Nail Stage.

News & feature s writers, Chloe and Rebecca, attended the launch of Hunte r Collective’s Rosebery venue in Farringdon, London. Fitted wi th hair and nail stations and a sta ff area, spaces in the Rosebery site are availab le for freelance be auty pros to hire out for co-workin g or events.

itor, Managing ed Chloe d an , na le He by Secret were invited nd the te at to UK Spa ion vis National Tele Spa et cr Se . Awards ed OPI id ov pr s ist ap ther event, Ps prior to the VI to nail services tched the and Chloe wa and Helena celebs th re mingling wi awards befo rty. at the after pa Rebecca paid a visit to the latest nail salon addition to the Townhouse portfolio in Spitalfie lds Market, East London. Equippe d with the brand’s signature slick dé cor, self-book kiosks, digital co lour libraries and cuticle oil refill sta tion, services range from expr ess to luxury and seasonal nail ar t treatments.

HEALTHMATTERS

DEALING WITH Expand your knowledge on how diabetes can affect your clients & how to adapt nail services accordingly CHLOE RANDALL REPORTS

Diabetes According to charity, Diabetes UK, approximately 6% of the UK population suffers with diabetes. Learning about the condition and how to accommodate clients with it is key to making them feel safe and able to enjoy their salon experience.

With World Diabetes Day marked on 14 November, there has never been a better time to refresh your knowledge about what needs to be considered when providing a nail service for a diabetic client. Scratch chats to experts about what you need to know and scouts out suitable product picks…

Why & how does it affect feet?

What is diabetes?

Diabetes is a chronic health condition that affects how the body turns food into energy. Your body breaks down most of the food you eat into sugar (glucose) and releases it into your bloodstream. This increases your blood sugar level, which signals your pancreas to release insulin. Insulin acts like a key to let the blood sugar into your body’s cells for use as energy. For those with diabetes, the body doesn’t make enough insulin or can’t use it as well as it should. When there isn’t enough insulin or cells stop responding to insulin, too much blood sugar stays in the bloodstream. There are two types of diabetes, type 1 and type 2, which have different causal factors. There are also other types of diabetes, such as gestational diabetes, which affects pregnant women.

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Scarlet Lewis

“If the diabetes is poorly controlled, this can lead to long periods of time with high blood sugar levels that can cause macro and micro vascular changes,” reveals Scarlet Lewis, clinical pharmacist at Maidstone & Tunbridge Wells NHS Trust. “This affects extremities, as peripheral vascular disease results from the narrowing of blood vessels, increasing the risk of reduced or lack of blood flow in the legs.”

As a result of this, people with diabetes can experience problems with their feet, and according to Diabetes UK, if people with diabetes experience any of the below problems, they need to see a specialist or GP. • Tingling sensation or pins and needles (like numbness). A foot of a diabetic suffering with peripheral vascular disease, which • Pain (burning sensation). causes poor circulation. • A dull ache. • Shiny, smooth skin on the feet. • Hair loss on the legs and feet. • Loss of feeling in the feet or legs. • Swollen feet. • Lack of sweat on the feet. • Wounds or sores that don’t heal. • Cramp in calves when resting or walking. • Foul smell from an open wound. • Blisters and cuts that you can see but can’t feel.

HEALTHMATTERS

Consultation

Gareth Hicks, DUET diabetes expert & Louella Belle educator, explains what should be asked on a consultation form to establish diabetic contra-indications...

Q. Have you been diagnosed with diabetes? Y / N “If yes, then ask ‘When was the last time you had your feet checked by a healthcare professional?’. If it was more than 12 months ago, suggest that the client contacts their GP for a diabetic foot check, as everyone with diabetes should have their feet screened for diabetic foot problems at least once a year. Gareth Hicks

“It is also a good idea to ask ‘Are you currently having (or have you previously had) treatment for a diabetic foot problem by a healthcare professional (such as a podiatrist or GP/practice nurse)?’”

TOP TIP

When using products on the feet of clients with diabetes, check to ensure the product is ‘safe for use on diabetic feet’. Avoid products containing salicylic acid or similar ingredients. Footlogix DD Cream Mousse Formula £13.50 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Lecenté Cleansing Soak £5.99 + VAT/ RRP £13.95 www.lecente.com

A toe with an open wound, which is prone to infection.

“Look for any cuts or ulcers on diabetic feet including under the heel and in between toes, as if found, these would need to be seen by a GP before any treatment takes place.” Scarlet Lewis

Treatment guidance “Nail and beauty pros should remember that if a client has a loss of sensation in their feet, they should be cautious with water temperature and massage pressure, and take extra care when cutting and filing, as people with diabetes are more prone to infection,” comments Gareth Hicks. “It is also important not to undertake nail work or a treatment if the client has a nail and/or skin infection (whether bacterial or fungal), as there is a risk of spreading it to other areas as well as contamination of equipment. “Once the infection has been resolved, the client can then be encouraged to return for the original treatment. Softly explain to the client why you can’t carry out the service and recommend they visit their GP.”

Footlogix Toe Nail Tincture £13 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

TECH TALK

Kay Cooper

Kay Cooper, Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year finalist 2022, shares how she navigates treatments for diabetic clients...

“There are quite a few things I do differently for clients with diabetes. I am very careful around the proximal nail fold and I make sure when pushing down and lifting up the fold that I do not tear the live tissue. I also take extra caution when removing dead tissue not to nip and cause a bleed. “I never use Epsom salts in my pedicure services with diabetic clients as they can dry out the feet. I also am careful not to moisturise too much in between the toes, as in some extreme cases it can lead to infection. “The time you soak the feet for should only be between three to five minutes with diabetic clients. Usually, we soak the feet to soften the hard skin but with diabetics, we need to be more careful as any cuts or abrasions can lead to infections. “During the consultation, after discussing the area the client would like us to focus on, it is important to manage expectations. For example, explain why it isn’t always possible to remove all the hard, cracked or peeling skin. Instead, send them home with aftercare advice and retail home care products.”

A mild fungal infection, also known as Onychomycosis.

“A diabetic client will have dry and sometimes itchy and irritated skin,” explains Theresa Foddering, head of education at Lecenté. “In some cases, the skin can be prone to splitting and bleeding easily with a slower healing process. Lesions may be present on the client’s skin and come in a variety of severities, so a thorough consultation and visual assessment is Theresa Foddering essential prior to commencing the treatment.”

A foot with fungal infected skin.

COURSE SPOTLIGHT: DUET diabetes

Louella Belle and DUET diabetes have teamed up to launch the Evergreen Diabetic Foot Awareness Workshop, available to watch virtually in the student’s own time. The student is certified after completing the course and passing the exam. The workshop covers: • What diabetes is and associated signs and symptoms. • A brief overview of the short/long term effects (complications) of diabetes. • What is a foot ulcer? • The observable risk factors leading to foot problems. • Suitable and unsuitable footwear for people with diabetes. • The causes of neuropathy and peripheral arterial disease (PAD). • The appropriate action to take and advice to give clients. The session is pre-recorded by an experienced podiatrist from DUET diabetes and there are downloadable resources and content to aid the student’s learning experience and put knowledge into practice. Visit www.louellabelle.academy or scan here to sign up

#NailingDiabetes 2022

To raise awareness of diabetes and support for World Diabetes Day on 14 November, Diabetes UK is encouraging people to paint their nails blue. Simply choose a blue nail varnish or inspire your clients to wear a blue hue, and share photos on social media using the hashtag #NailingDiabetes. The aim is to encourage people to ask questions and answer with diabetes knowledge. To receive a free information pack with tips for taking part and inspiration, scan here SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 27

NEW

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INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

The winners of Scratch’s annual photographic competition, The Great Scratch Shoot Out 2022, have been announced. Discover who scooped the prizes & the story behind each image CHLOE RANDALL REPORTS The Great Scratch Shoot Out 2022 saw 79 diverse and inspiring entries submitted from all over the globe, including the UK, USA, France, Spain, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany and South Africa. Following thorough deliberation by the team at Scratch HQ, the winners were revealed on The Nail Stage at Olympia Beauty, London on 3 October.

Nail pros worldwide were invited to submit an image with an artistic flair and focus on nails following no set theme, allowing their creativity to flow. The winners of the top three places were chosen by the judging panel, while voting opened on the Scratch website for the Voter’s Choice award, where 2,400 of you cast your vote for your favourite entry. “Thank you to everyone who entered The Great Scratch Shoot Out this year and for making our decision as a judging panel a difficult but exhilarating one,” comments Chloe Randall, competition organiser. “Seeing the creativity a nail pro has to offer come to life in these entries was a privilege, and everyone should be very proud of the imagery they created.”

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Ania Kesiak – Glasgow, UK

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION

MEET THE WINNER After working in the nail industry for 16 years, Ania Kesiak of Beauty Beehive in Glasgow, Scotland, scooped the first place position in this year’s competition with her striking image, featuring the Darth Maul character from Star Wars. The Scratch team was incredibly impressed with the make-up, composition and creativity of the shot and innovative lightsaber-inspired nail style. How did you decide on the concept of the shoot? “It was my partner who said – ‘wouldn’t it be great if you could create lightsaber nails?’ I liked the idea straight away, and even more so once I realised that I could use glow in the dark products. “I looked at images of lightsabers to inspire my creation. I had wanted to use a male model for some time and it suited the concept. I decided to depict the Darth Maul character because I thought the final image would make a big impact with red and black make-up.” What did you enjoy most about entering The Great Scratch Shoot Out? “This was my first time entering a photographic competition where there was no theme. I really enjoyed that there were endless possibilities within The Great Scratch Shoot Out, and that you don’t know what other competitors will create. It was exciting to dream up an unusual concept to ‘wow’ the judges.” How did you choose your creative team & what happened on shoot day? “I knew Alana, the make-up artist, would be perfect to create this look after seeing her transformative work creations. Regarding the photography, there was no one else I would rather work with than my brother, Kris. He is the first to hear about my ideas for photos, and while he does not always agree with my visions, he always executes them to the best standard. “My partner, Jonathan, gladly agreed to be the model – even though he didn’t realise the time it would take. We started at around 10am and I built and created the nails on him while Alana applied the make-up. It was such a fun day! “I was very clear on what I wanted for the nails and the detail I wanted to incorporate into them, like the tiny buttons at the top and the glow in the dark feature. However,

I didn’t realise how long it would take and it was seven hours before we were finally ready to start the photo shoot. “Kris loved the final look and while it was a long day, we were all very excited and happy that the photo worked out the way we wanted it to. Having a team of creative people who are dedicated to your idea is one of the most important factors in a successful shoot.” What would your advice be to nail techs entering The Great Scratch Shoot Out in the future? “My advice would be to really consider your idea. Are you sold on it? Can you envisage the final image? If you’re not sure, take time to explore other ideas until you get that ‘light bulb’ moment where you know what you want to achieve with the image, even if you don’t yet know how. The ‘how’ will always come when you practice and try different options.” Where were you when you found out you had won? “My partner and I were in our flat waiting for the clock to hit 3:45pm so the live stream would begin. He was watching it on his phone and I had my laptop up and running on the Scratch magazine Facebook page. “I had seen all the other entries and as proud as I felt of my own photo, I wasn’t sure about what the judges would like and pick as there were some great images and so many people had entered. I will admit I secretly was hoping mine would come third or second, but when I heard the results for those places and it wasn’t me, my heart started beating fast!

“This image instantly captured our attention and was the one we all seemed to remember and keep coming back to during the judging process. Whether or not you are a fan of Star Wars, the creativity and talent presented in this image can be appreciated. The make-up and level of detail is incredible and the lightsaber nails are so captivating.” Chloe Randall, news & features writer

“Jonathan’s stream played faster than my laptop and just before the announcement of the first place winner on my screen, he started shouting and laughing uncontrollably. I then saw the results and screamed with joy, so much so that my two cats ran out of the room! We were both ecstatic and I started crying. It’s the best feeling to know that an idea paid off.” What did it mean to you to win first place? “Everyone knows Scratch magazine – it’s the biggest magazine of its kind! To win and be featured has always been my dream and I’m over the moon. Even while doing this interview, I have tears in my eyes!” /aniakesiaknails

@aniakesiaknails

IMAGE CREDITS

“I love how striking this image is. The menacing stare captures the eessence of the Darth Maul character perfectly, and the face paint is applied flawlessly. The white glow of the lightsaber nails offers a perfect contrast to the black background, which instantly commands focus without detracting from the overall image.”

Photographer: Kris Kesiak @kriskesiak Nail stylist: Ania Kesiak @aniakesiaknails Make-up artist: Alana Pignatiello @alanapignatiellomakeup Model: Jonathan Kerr @kingkerrpandabear

Callie Iley, news & features writer SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 31

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION Ivana Prokic is no stranger to the winner’s list of The Great Scratch Shoot Out after winning first place in both 2018 and 2020. Now, her positive and perfectly shot image has been awarded second place in this year’s competition, after bringing smiles to the judges’ faces. What do you enjoy about entering The Great Scratch Shoot Out? “It had been a long time since my team came together for a photo shoot, and this competition presented the perfect opportunity. I asked Ilona, the photographer, if she had time, and luckily she was available.” How did you create the nail look? “I used the CND Shellac™ system to create the overlay. I started with the base coat, then applied the Powder My Nose shade before the Shellac™ Original Top Coat and nail art stickers.” Were there any challenges? If so, how did you overcome them? “We found a model who we thought would be perfect for the photo shoot. However, the day before the shoot, she cancelled – even though I had been up for her until 3am.

Ivana Prokic – Antwerp, Belgium “I love the stunning simplicity of this image. Everything just works perfectly together; the model, the pose, the flawless natural make-up and of course – the beautiful nails. It’s such a happy, comforting image. What’s not to like?” Jess Wilkie, art editor

CND Shellac™ in Powder My Nose £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

making nail tips

“However, this was meant to be. Ilona posted on Instagram and asked if someone would be interested in doing a last minute shoot with us. Our model, Sanne, came forward and travelled from Amsterdam to Ilona’s studio in Valkenswaard, Belgium. It took her three hours on the bus each way as the train was not running for two weeks at the time in the Netherlands. She is a star!” What were the creative decisions behind the image? “Our model, Sanne, is so beautiful and normally when we do shoots, there is one photo that I know is the one I will submit. However, this time, it was a more challenging decision as all her photos were amazing. “Ilona had to help me choose the photo to submit. I love Sanne’s smile in this shot, and her eyes are shining. I hope that people appreciate it as a happy, fun and playful photo that will make them smile, too. When it comes to shooting an image, it’s about the entire picture, not just the nails. I love a natural look that can be inspired by fashion.” As one of the greatest successes in The Great Scratch Shoot Out, what is your advice to future entrants? “My three tips would be find a team, create magic together and try to think outside the box.” www.nordicbeauty.be

IMAGE CREDITS Photographer: Ilona Teunissen Photography @ilona_teunissen_photography Nail stylist: Ivana Prokic @nordicbeauty.be Make-up artist: Linda Storm @lindastorm.nl Model: Sanne Georgette @sanne.georgette Retoucher: Olga Basik @olgabasik_retouch

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/nordicbeauty.be

@nordicbeauty.be

“A smile is infectious – and I smiled as soon as I set eyes on this happy and brilliantly captured image. The model’s natural make-up and softly styled hair offer a soothing backdrop for the fun, bright nail stickers of happy faces and flowers which hold the focus and enhance the mood. The image’s minimal style allows it to be effective in achieving its goal and the model’s pose is genuine and free, with a crop that allows us to feel close to her and absorb her happy aura.” Helena Biggs, managing editor, Scratch magazine

INDUSTRYCOMPETITION This year’s third place award was won by Ioana Cristescu, who scooped the prize with a piercing image that captivated the Scratch team. Creating an extreme nail design, all aspects of the image complement each other and repeatedly drew our attention. What was the idea behind your entry? “I love creating extreme nails and behind this image, I think there is a very complex theme. I always choose a dark theme for extreme nails but for me, darkness does not always equate to evil, just as light does not always hold positive connotations. This photo has a different meaning for different people. It can have a deathly vibe, or portray a warrior of the dark side.” Where were you when you found out you had placed & what was your reaction? “I was on a flight traveling from Istanbul to Venice when the announcement was made, so I saw it on Instagram when I landed and I couldn’t believe it. I can’t wait to enter again next year and am already thinking about my entry.”

Ioana Cristescu – Barcelona, Spain IMAGE CREDITS Photographer: Rebeca Saray @rebecasaray Nail stylist: Ioana Cristescu @ioanacristescunailartist Make-up artist: Alicia Curet @aliciacuret Model: Ioana Cristescu @ioanacristescunailartist

What would be your advice to future entrants? “Just give it a go. The main problem people have is fear that they aren’t good enough. However, you need to try and it doesn’t matter if you win or not, as participating will motivate you to do better next time. Entering is an amazing experience; the standard of the entries is like an art gallery. You cannot miss the chance to have your work published in an art gallery!” www.ioanacristescu.com

@ioanacristescunailartist

“I love the juxtaposed black and white dynamic in this baroque-esque image. It affords mystery and there is much to take in. It’s original, alluring and almost eerie in the silence I read in her eyes. The nails are beautifully crafted and they frame her face with authority. They aid in the power I feel that oozes from her expression. I know this person harbours a dark secret and I love when an image gives so much room for interpretation and you can feel a force coming right out of it.” Alex Fox, co-founder, Scratch magazine

“This image has an instant ‘wow factor’ and I am drawn in by its fabulously executed details. To me, a great image keeps pulling you back, giving you something new to notice each time you lay eyes on it - and this photo does exactly that. There is clearly huge skill involved to produce and style the extreme nail design, and the way that the image’s other elements complement the nails and build a dynamic character highlights the creative talent involved.” Rebecca Hitchon, news & features writer As well as winning the eyes of the judges with her first place Darth Maul image, Ania also won the hearts – and votes – of Scratch followers. Tell us about the nail look… “For each nail, I wanted to represent something to do with the Suffragette movement and history. The colours of green, white, purple and gold were present on the Suffragettes’ sashes and all the jewellery pieces, apart from the actual jewels, were based on Edwardian-style jewellery, which I hand-made from L&P acrylic. The thumb represented two snakes visible on one of their flags and ‘Never give up the fight’ was one of their mottos, which I also wanted to incorporate.” How did you conceive the idea? “This was an idea that came to me during a drive in Scotland. All I knew at the time was that the theme would be ‘Suffragettes’, but I had no clue what the nails would look like or how I would present the theme as a picture. I wanted to make a statement to empower women and researched how the women’s vote was won in 1918. I read about the statue that was erected in London in 2018 and this is when I thought that my model should be a statue!” /aniakesiaknails

Ania Kesiak – Glasgow, UK

@aniakesiaknails

IMAGE CREDITS Photographer: Kris Kesiak @kriskesiak Nail stylist & model: Ania Kesiak @aniakesiaknails Make-up artist: Alana Pignatiello @alanapignatiellomakeup

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 33

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Cosmetic THE

Climate The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA) gets under the skin of common cosmetic & personal care scares BY CAROLINE RAINSFORD

Head of scientific & environmental services at The CTPA

FIVE-FREE, TOXIC-TEN… ARE THERE NAIL POLISH INGREDIENTS TO AVOID?

here are so many myths surrounding cosmetic ingredients and products. Have you ever wondered whether clean beauty really is better or what’s so scary about parabens? In this article, I investigate some of the most widespread reports about nail polish ingredients and safety to discover where they have come from and what the science says.

How do we know that cosmetics are safe?

There is UK legislation that requires cosmetics to be safe. The law ensures that cosmetics are made in a hygienic and wellcontrolled environment, and they must not be likely to experience harmful microbial contamination. It restricts the ingredients that are allowed to be used and bans 36 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

There is the professional safety assessor who signs to say the cosmetic product is safe. Each cosmetic product must undergo a safety DID YOU KNOW? assessment by a qualified and experienced Diethyl phthalate (DEP) is not safety assessor (whose qualifications are likely to be found in nail polishes stated in the law) before it is made available anymore. However, even if it were, you for sale. The safety assessment takes account would need to paint your nails more of all the ingredients used in the product, than 10,000 times every day to reach how the product will be used, by whom and how often. the threshold where DEP could

Before looking at specific stories, it’s helpful to remember that all cosmetic products sold in the UK are covered by strict safety laws. Make-up, nail products, suncare, shampoo, toothpaste – and so much more – are used on a daily basis to keep our hair, teeth and skin clean, protected and to give us confidence in our appearance. Therefore, because we share our lives so intimately with these items, it is vital that companies rigorously investigate any potential risks from each ingredient.

There are three layers to the safety assurance process:

dangerous ingredients. As well as a full ingredients list, appropriate instructions for use need to be written on the label and any claims made by the product must be able to be proven.

possibly cause harm. This would There is the control by authorities checking mean having 3kg of polish on products placed on the market. on your nails – heavy! Both companies and the UK government monitor

any unwanted reactions to cosmetic products, because the law places a responsibility on companies to report certain reactions to cosmetics to the authorities. If someone has a reaction to a cosmetic product, it doesn’t necessarily mean it is unsafe, as unfortunately people can be allergic or sensitive to certain substances. However, it is important to monitor reactions to identify any trends and see if any further investigations are needed. Finally, Trading Standards is responsible for enforcement against any illegal products on the market.

INDUSTRYINSIDER

FACT FILE

Words like ‘formaldehyde’ or ‘toluene’ can form part of a longer chemical name on on a product’s ingredients list, but that chemical will have completely different properties to formaldehyde or toluene. Chemicals can have complex structures and their names are made up of words describing different, smaller sections of the complex structure, which is why they are so long. Therefore, the small, formaldehyde chemical structure might form part of a bigger, complex chemical. If formaldehyde is in the name, it doesn’t mean the big chemical has any similarities to formaldehyde. What about ingredients in nail polish? Blogs and articles warn about the ‘toxic trio’, ‘nasty nine’ or even the ’14 to fear’ nail polish ingredients. Often, brands themselves will claim that their products are free from toxic ingredients, but by law, all cosmetic products must be safe and free from toxic ingredients! There are so many different ingredients impacted by the various ‘free from’ claims on nail polishes, but we will focus on the usual suspects – phthalates, toluene, formaldehyde, triphenyl phosphate and xylene. Phthalates ‘Phthalate’ is a word used to describe a big family of chemicals that all share a similar chemical structure. Just like most groups, there are phthalates with dangerous properties and phthalates that are safe. For example, within the apiacaea (carrot) family, there are healthy carrots and tasty parsley, but also hemlock, which contains enough poison in just 2cm of its root to be deadly. Most phthalates are banned in cosmetics in the UK; for example, dibutyl phthalate (DBP) and diethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP). Diethyl phthalate (DEP) is a phthalate that is legally allowed to be used in cosmetics. The US Cosmetic Ingredient Review, National Toxicology Program and European Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety have all found DEP to be safe in cosmetic products following independent scientific assessments. Toluene Blogs and articles often say to avoid toluene because it can be absorbed through the nail plate or breathed in, causing immediate and long-term harmful effects. Toluene was often used as a solvent in some nail polishes because it is good at dissolving other ingredients into a smooth, easy to apply formulation. However, it is now rare to find toluene in a nail product as formulations move on and new technologies become available.

Despite the fact that toluene is rarely used, it has been found safe in nail products up to a maximum concentration of 25% by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), which is the independent European scientific safety assessment panel. The SCCS investigated all the available data and found that toluene is not absorbed through the nail plate and the exposure to this chemical from nail products is too short-term and at too low a concentration to cause acute neurological or long-term health effects. Formaldehyde Formaldehyde is banned in cosmetic products in the UK. It was previously used, very effectively, in nail hardeners because tiny amounts of formaldehyde bonded with proteins in the nail to give the strengthening effect. The SCCS reconfirmed its safety in 2014 but unfortunately formaldehyde did not meet other, non-safety related, aspects of the legal approval process for continued use of a cosmetic ingredient. Although formaldehyde is banned in cosmetics, we create it every day in our bodies. Every time we exhale, our breath contains around 0.004mg/kg of formaldehyde. It is also found in vegetables such as mushrooms, potatoes and cauliflowers. This just goes to show that it’s not the presence of a chemical that makes it harmful, it is ‘the dose that makes the poison’, as the famous quote reveals. Triphenyl phosphate (TPHP) Triphenyl phosphate (TPHP) is a softening ingredient that increases

“Each cosmetic product must undergo a safety assessment by a qualified and experienced safety assessor (whose qualifications are stated in the law) before it is made available for sale.” SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 37

INDUSTRYINSIDER the flexibility and durability of nail polish films. It has been claimed that TPHP is toxic or an endocrine disruptor, meaning that it can disrupt our hormone system. What’s behind these claims? One common factor between the stories is a study by Mendelsohn and other authors in 2016. The study measured the amount of TPHP in a sample of nail polishes and also measured the concentration of DPHP, which is a chemical that TPHP breaks down into, in the urine of study participants after they had painted their nails, or been otherwise exposed to nail polish by painting synthetic nails. The study found that concentration of DPHP in urine increased after the participants painted their nails. It’s worth mentioning that the study also found TPHP in the urine of people who hadn’t painted their nails, which highlights the fact that our bodies are exposed to countless chemicals every day from the things we eat, touch, the air we breathe and the people we meet, and we need to get rid of these somehow. Studies have estimated that urine contains over 3000 chemicals! The important question is whether these chemicals pose any risk to us, or just pass through us. A few scientific studies are available that look at very high levels and prolonged exposure to TPHP and unsurprisingly, these studies show that this can cause a problem. This type of exposure is completely different to how we use TPHP in nail polishes and is therefore not relevant to real life. There is currently no evidence that TPHP or DPHP pose a risk to us in the tiny amounts that they are used in nail products. There is no evidence that they disrupt our hormone systems or cause weight gain! Xylene This brings us back to the point that it is the dose that makes the Finally, xylene is another solvent that is rarely used today in nail poison. Vitamin A is also toxic to the liver if taken in high doses that polishes. This is because modern, innovative solvents exceed the capacity of the liver to store it. Eucalyptus can evaporate more quickly for a quick-dry finish, rather be very soothing to inhale during a nasty cough or than due to a safety issue with xylene. cold, but if swallowed, its oil can cause seizures. A common way to make a An often-cited concern about xylene is that it depresses the nervous system and irritates the eyes, throat and nose. It could even be potentially toxic to internal organs such as the liver and kidneys.

cosmetic ingredient sound dangerous is to state that it is also used in products Therefore, applying a xylene solvent to the nails at very low concentrations is in a such as antifreeze or oven cleaner. different league to inhaling or ingesting very We associate the chemical with the purpose of large quantities. The safety assessment these products and worry about what it might be that must take place on every product doing to our skin or nails. There is one chemical before it is sold takes these things into that is found in these household products and in account by investigating the hazard our cosmetics, at high concentrations too… water! data behind each ingredient, and understanding whether this means the The fact that a chemical is used in products for ingredient could pose a risk in the way that different purposes gives us no information it is used in cosmetics. If the answer is yes, about the safety or function of that chemical. the product is not allowed to be sold. For example, it could be a fragrance, preservative or even a moisturising Drawing your own conclusions agent rather than an active As demonstrated by these five ingredients, there ingredient. can be several different reasons why cosmetic ingredients develop a negative reputation. For example, it could be scientific study results which are taken out of context, the effects that a chemical can have when used in a different way, or even historical product performance problems associated with that ingredient. Cosmetic ingredients are constantly reviewed for safety as new science and research is published. If an ingredient is found to be unsafe in the way it is used in cosmetics and personal care products, it is banned under the UK cosmetics law. To read more about cosmetic science and safety, visit www.thefactsabout.co.uk www.ctpa.org.uk

38 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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film

Skincare enthusiast & video creator, James Welsh, shares his passion for nail styling & opens up about the fears he faced when starting his nail journey AS TOLD TO CALLIE ILEY

ocial media icon, James Welsh, found fame through his honest and engaging skincare reviews on YouTube. One half of the ‘Welsh Twins’ (his brother is a makeup artist), James’s YouTube channel boasts 1.45 million subscribers, with Facebook follower numbers not far behind. More recently, however, his content has included nail art, an interest in which was sparked during the Covid-19 lockdowns.

changing for me,” he explains. “Good pigmentation and selflevelling qualities are important for an amateur like me, and make for easier application. I turn to Tiny, Fgel and Revelry and love a brand that can successfully create a concept, lure me in and inspire me with each product launch. Korean gel brands do that for me!”

Influences & inspiration Y2K-inspired aesthetics are some of James’s favourite nail styles to both look at and recreate. “The use of silver paints with charms and embellishments, teamed with syrup gels that create a metal and plastic look, catch my eye,” he reveals. “Some of my favourite styles are nails that wouldn’t look out of place in a TLC music video! One of my favourite techs who captures that Y2K nostalgia is Rebecca Ramsdale of Rebecca Paints Nails.”

“I get the James had noticed music artists and odd comment celebrities showing off their nail art online, that nail polish ‘isn’t for which encouraged him to experiment with his own nail looks and begin a journey men’, but I feel like as a into nail styling. “I’m someone who has to learn how to do everything myself, and I society, we are way past become obsessed with whatever it is I’m that. Being a man in the When quizzed on the similarities learning, and nail art has me hooked,” he smiles. “It helps me to relax and take between the nail and skincare sectors, beauty space for seven James my mind off work.” agrees that the two have many connections. “Both industries offer plenty years, comments Describing himself as ‘a nail newbie trying to to discover, and are great forms of like that don’t get good’, the video creator is known for his love self-care. There’s a lot of important basics of K-beauty, which extends from skincare to nails. to learn when it comes to doing nails to bother me.” avoid He has sought out Korea-based nail artists to follow damaging them, which is similar with on social media and reveals: “I love watching the daily vlogs that Korean techs post, and the varied nail styles they create for clients. I also enjoy learning about products they use, as it helps me learn about the products and tools that are available within the nail space.” James’s admiration for Korean styling doesn’t stop with the techs and designs. “Korean gel brands have been game40 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

skincare practice.” Scrolling down James’s Instagram feed, viewers can spot decorated nails holding onto products and taking prominence in their own posts. His nail style is short, and he experiments with colourful overlays and nail artistry. “I get the odd comment that nail polish ‘isn’t for men’, but I feel like as a society, we are way

NAILTALK

“I love the communication and respect that people have for each other in the online nail community. There’s room for people of all levels to share their love for the art form.” past that,” James observes. “Being a man in the beauty space for seven years, comments like that don’t bother me. “As I progress on my nail journey, I’ve started to learn more about gels, full coverage tips and L&P acrylic. Followers have become more interested in the products I’m using to achieve the designs and effects that they see in my posts, and the majority of responses to my nail work have been positive. I love the communication and respect that people have for each other in the online nail community. There’s room for people of all levels to share their love for the art form.” Despite the positive reactions of others, sharing his nail journey with his viewers was not without concern. “I was really worried I might be bad at nails,” James admits. “The nail art that I love is created by techs who have been in the industry for years, and they all have signature looks, concepts and styles. “I have seven years of skincare content on my channel, and that’s what people expect from me, so I was worried that no one would be interested in my nail content. I was so wrong! I love that I can share something else that I’m truly passionate about, and the more I share my efforts and growing collection of gel shades, the more requests I get for nail content.” These positive responses from his viewers encouraged James to set up his own nail accounts on Instagram and YouTube; named Neophyte Nails. “I want to share the joy that nails brings me with others,” he adds. “Sometimes, it can be frustrating that I can’t replicate designs properly, or that I don’t have a steady hand yet, but I think it’s all fun and part of the journey. The creative freedom that nail art brings is something I feel everyone can benefit from and enjoy. And while I’m not an expert yet, I’d love to grow my skills with anyone who’s willing to watch and help. I think we all like the idea of learning about and discovering a whole new world of beauty together.” /JamesWelsh.Video @james_s_welsh & @neophyte_nails /JamesWelsh

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 41

CHRISTMASRETAIL

FESTIVE TREATS for body, hands & feet Get tills ringing & boost your income this festive season with Scratch’s roundup of retail items to stock & top tips to help sell them HELENA BIGGS REPORTS The average British adult forked out £548 on Christmas gifts in 2021 (according to personal finance company, Finder), and started penning their gift lists as early as July. Make sure you get a piece of the pie this year by stocking up on products your clients will want to gift loved ones, and make more from their time in the salon than just the cost of their nail or beauty service.

Ruth Atkins

“Retailing is essential for any nail and beauty business, as not only does it bring in significant extra revenue, but it supports client retention,” comments Ruth Atkins, Salon System educator. “A nail pro who knows their brands will talk enthusiastically about them and make recommendations to suit the client’s personal and gifting needs.

“There are only so many hours in the day to fit in appointments, so make additional revenue for your business by selling retail items. If your client doesn’t buy from you, they will buy elsewhere on the high street.” It’s important to consider your market, space and budget before investing in items to sell to clients this season. Don’t allow your retail space to get cluttered and be sure to buy items that will appeal to their tastes and budget. “Buying gifts in the salon should be a treat, so invest in quality wrapping, gift bags and ribbon, so the client enjoys the entire buying experience,” continues Ruth. “Gift vouchers should be readily available and printed elaborately for Christmas, and make sure these come inclusive of envelopes along with the salon menu and price list.”

Sarah Hartley

“Remove the mindset that your clients can’t afford products, don’t want them or don’t like you selling to them,” warns Sarah Hartley, social media coach & founder of Blossom Tree Social. “A general chat about the items you stock and being helpful rather than pushy will make a big difference, as will having confidence in the products you sell.”

44 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NailMail Subscription £29.99 per month www.nail-mail.com

HINT, HINT! Show this pic to a loved one as a hint for your Christmas present, or treat a fellow nail pro to the NailMail nail subscription box. Each month, a beautifully packaged box of nail products and accessories is delivered, alongside a video tutorial on how to create a featured look using the products. The December box features two designs by nail artist, Paiwa Drew. NailMail boxes are also available to buy as a one-time purchase for £34.99.

CHRISTMASRETAIL

AWESOME ADVENT CALENDARS Count down to Christmas by offering a much-loved advent calendar...

A gift for you… TGB’s 12 Days Of BIAB™ Calendarr £130 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Give yourself and your employees a handy gift for the nail desk every day for 12 days with TGB’s first advent calendar. Limited edition, it features mini BIAB™ shades including Wonderland, Mistletoe and Snow Angel alongside a TGB Golden Ticket, which offers a prize for every buyer.

A gift for them… Disney Mickey Jingle All The Way Day Advent Calendar £16 inc VAT www.madbeauty.com. For trade orders, email sales@madbeauty.com

OPI 25-Piece Mini Advent Calendar £58.90 + VAT/RRP £79.90 www.trade.opiuk.com

A handy treat lies behind every door of this 12 Days of Bath and Body Gift Set. Products include lip balm, body wash and hand cream, each compact enough to pack for seasonal travels.

Entice clients to treat themselves to this colour-packed advent calendar from OPI, featuring 25 mini nail lacquers including all 12 holiday collection shades, 10 popular iconic colours, RapiDry Top Coat, Nail Envy in Bubble Bath, and Start to Finish. Each mini is packaged behind a door in the luxe gift box, offering 25 days of products.

CATCH THE EYES Opportunities to attract sales start before the client even steps through your salon door, with an attractive window display. Capture the attention of both clients and passers-by with a fun, festive themed window and clear signage detailing your offers. “In the run-up to Christmas, consider your salon décor and window display,” suggests Ruth Atkins. “Salons and retail shops seem to start putting up the Christmas tree earlier every year, so make sure you buy your Christmas retail items early, too, and display them clearly. Having to re-stock is better than having leftover stock!”

Cara Shanks

Cara Shanks, Gerrard International’s brand manager for Jessica Cosmetics & Hair Gain, suggests incorporating viral trends and themes into your window displays as a point of difference. “Make the space look warm and inviting with a pretty display of all the products you sell,” she shares. “Ask the brands you stock for promotional material to use in windows, on shelves and even on social media.

“Can you add a promotional board outside the salon? See if there is a local chalk artist that you could work with to create a beautiful board to entice passers-by.”

Inside the salon…

The Niche Hair & Beauty salon, Long Eaton, decked out for Christmas.

After decorating your salon in festive attire, walk in as if you are a client and consider what they see at each stage of their journey. “Displaying your retail products in their eye-line is an easy way to catch their eye. If a client cannot see what is for sale, they cannot buy it,” comments Kayley Cairns, award-winning nail pro & co-

head educator at HD Nail Artist Academy. “Present items clearly, and cleanly, and ask yourself if the way they are presented would make you want to buy them. A dusty box in the corner of the salon won’t appeal to anyone!”

Events Put your nail business on the map for gifting needs by hosting or attending an event. “Christmas fairs are a great way to market your business and promote your product lines to the local community,” shares Ruth Atkins. “Decide who you want to target demographically and look out for dates and costs. School luncheons and Christmas craft fairs are great ways to sell stock and promote your business.” Elizabeth Barlow, Lecenté Creator & owner of Elegant Nails & Beauty, Huntly, acknowledges that attracting non-regular clients to your space to buy Christmas gifts can be challenging. “I’ve heard many people say that they walked past a salon but as it looked busy they didn’t come in to Elizabeth Barlow purchase, so promote and host a Christmas shopping event for your customers and local community. “When I do this, I close my salon to treatments and the team fully focuses on promoting products and speaking to customers. We advertise and sell tickets for £5, which is redeemable on products on the night. We offer nibbles, display Christmas products and have offers on shelf-sitting stock. Clients love that they can come and go or stay all evening, but they don’t feel they are interrupting the work day.”

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 45

CHRISTMASRETAIL

GORGEOUS GIFT SETS

Become a one-stop-shop for your client’s gifting needs by stocking up on attractive gift sets. “When purchasing gifts to retail, consider the age, gender and budget of your clientele,” recommends Ruth Atkins. “For example, younger clients may seek smaller gifts at a lower value. Gift vouchers are also an easy option for clients unsure about what to gift, and vouchers help entice new clients to try your treatments.” Hair Gain Christmas Gummies Gift Set £28.75 + VAT/RRP £54.95 www.gerrardinternational.com Hair Gain harnesses the organic pea shoot to strengthen thinning hair and restore its vitality and shine. This gift set includes two pots of Hair Gain Gummies presented in an attractive cosmetic bag.

IZ Beauty Of London Seeing Red Gift Set £8 + VAT/RRP £28 www.izabellehammon.com This striking gift set includes four 6ml lacquer hues; Vamp, The Big Apple, Red Grapefruit and British Red, in a soft touch gift box.

Mavala Christmas Trio £POA/RRP £15 www.mavala.co.uk With four colourways available, this Christmas set features three 5ml nail lacquers in plastic-free festive packaging.

Mickey Jingle All The Way Bath Salts Trio £10.99 inc VAT www.madbeauty.com. For trade orders, email sales@madbeauty.com This set contains individually boxed salts with vintage-style Mickey prints and pom-pom detailing in three festive fragrances; frosted berries, toasted marshmallow and Christmas icing.

OPI Nail Lacquer 4-Piece Mini Cracker £14.90 + VAT/RRP £21.90 www.trade.opiuk.com Offer the gift of choice with this mini set of four shimmering shades from the Jewel Be Bold nail colour collection. The 3.75ml hues are Go Big or Go Chrome, Decked to the Pines, Rhinestone Red-y, and OPI’m a Gem.

Jessica 5pc Gift Set £14.50 + VAT/RRP £28 www.gerrardinternational.com For clients seeking something to help sparkle and shine, consider this Jessica Gift Set, featuring Custom Colour shades Pink Squirrel, Just Married and Bare It All and the Reward Base Coat and Brilliance Top Coat.

CND™ Strawberry & Prosecco Scentsations Gift Set £10.95 + VAT/RRP £23.95 www.sweetsquared.com The sweet-smelling Strawberry & Prosecco Hand Wash & Body Lotion duo are packaged in a cute cable-knit print box to attract attention in the retail space.

Phytomer Christmas Cracker £8.50 + VAT/RRP £16.50 www.phytomer.co.uk This cracker contains two body products in 30ml limited editions. The Phytomer Gentle Body Scrub is a rich cream to exfoliate, and Oligomer Well-Being Sensation is a soothing body cream to intensely moisturise the skin while bathing it in a seaside scent.

SALES TIPS Initial nail training teaches many things, but business tips are often neglected. Many nail pros think they can’t ‘sell’ products to clients and shy away from its practice, however selling comes easily if you’re passionate and knowledgeable about your offerings. “It’s likely that you tell your clients about the benefits of products you use in their nail or beauty treatments, and if you know what you are saying to be true, then you will sell with greater ease,” comments Kayley Cairns. “When you address problems such as

46 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

dry skin and hangnails in a treatment, tell clients that using cuticle oil several times a day will prevent this and support the longevity of their manicure. Your client may then ask what oil they should choose, and where they can buy it from – and you simply need to tell them you offer it, showing them the product on payment, to encourage the sale. The more you do this, the more natural the ‘sales’ process feels.” Rachel Herar, Louella Belle brand ambassador & beauty therapist at Beauty By Rachel Herar, agrees. “Try not to focus on the ‘sell’,” she says.

CHRISTMASRETAIL

SUPER STOCKING FILLERS Small items are great for clients wishing to finish off a Christmas gift list, and suit those with smaller budgets. Promote as stocking fillers and display them by the till as a handy option to grab when they pay for their beauty service or walk in to book an appointment. Use code 5CRATCHMAG to receive a discount!

Keysie: The Nail-Saving Tool £1.67 + VAT each www.keysie.co.uk The super handy Keysie can clip onto a bag or keyring to help save your clients’ nails from damage caused by lifting ring pulls, opening parcels and pulling staples. Its round end can also be used in shopping trolleys (open locks only). A perfect retail item for your nail clients, Keysies are available in a variety of prints (including Christmas prints shown) and can be personalised with your business branding. To buy in bulk to resell or enquire about personalisation, call 01750 700029 or email sales@myclubtags.net

IZ Body Lock It In Balm with Eucalyptus, Lavender, Rosemary & Vitamin E £7 + VAT/RRP £12.50 www.izabellehammon.com This hydrating balm for hands and nails locks in moisture to protect and hydrate in the winter months and beyond. OPI Jewel Be Bold Nail Lacquer Duo £13 + VAT/RRP £25.90 www.trade.opiuk.com Allow clients to shimmer and shine with this pretty set of two 15ml nail lacquers that are perfect for party season.

Peacci‘ Manipedi Cream £POA/ RRP £10 www.thegelbottle.com This lavish 30ml cream moisturises dry hands, feet and neglected areas. Fast absorbing with a velvety texture, it has a sweet peach scent.

“I’ve never been pushy with sales as clients will trust you more if advice leading to a sale comes naturally and is genuine. Sell products you truly believe in and when you advertise them, your clients will know that you have faith in the products – so they will, too. Use them throughout your treatment to give a taste of what can be bought from you.” “Trust is a huge part of retailing,” adds Cara Shanks. “Ask brands for marketing materials or sales decks so you have all the information to hand if your clients have questions. The more you know about a product, the more confident you will be talking about it.” In addition, Cara recommends keeping the retail area tidy and offering testers where appropriate.

Magpie Nourish To Flourish Gingerbread Cuticle Oil £9.95 + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk This blend of oils conditions and moisturises, leaving the seasonal aroma of gingerbread for a Christmassy twist to the end of a treatment.

+Serumology Foot Serum £5.95 + VAT www.maskology.co.uk This refreshing daily treatment uses AHAs and enzymes to break down dead skin cells and rejuvenate skin that’s been tucked away in socks and winter boots.

Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polish in Emerald Studded £6.75 + VAT/RRP £13.50 www.gerrardinternational.com This glittery, rich holly green nail polish is perfect for Christmas and party nail styling.

Pure Nails Cuticle Feed £5.10 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk This handy oil with dropper intensely moisturises and has a fresh orange and mango scent.

NAF! PRO Autumn Cuticle Oil Pens (each scent sold as a 5pk) £27.50 + VAT/ RRP £8 each www.nafprofessionals.com Inspired by the season of change, nostalgia and comfort, NAF! PRO’s latest cuticle oil scents are French Vanilla, Golden Maple and Spiced Apple. Entice clients by using the scent (available for pros in 30ml dropper bottles) at the end of their mani or pedi, and suggest they purchase a pen at the end of the appointment.

IZ Beauty Of London Party Like Gatsby Gift Set £8 + VAT/RRP £28 www.izabellehammon.com This sparkly set includes Party Time, a textured nail polish packed with gold glitter, sequins and flakes with a holographic sparkle; Champagne Fizz, a fine gold dust glitter top coat, and the classic Gel Effect Top Coat, an ideal partner for glitter polish.

CND™ Crackers About Cuticles Stocking Filler £4.95 + VAT/RRP £9.90 www.sweetsquared.com This dainty Christmas cracker contains a handy 7.3ml SolarOil and a mini file.

Find out what you can about the client’s needs during their appointment; do they need something for a parent, partner or sibling? Consider what you stock that may be fitting and be enthusiastic when you tell or show them. “If you’re a concession, consider traffic-stoppers such as a free hand massage or nailcare consultation, and offer product recommendations,” suggests Rachel Mimbulu, marketing assistant at The GelBottle Inc. “Even if you don’t happen to sell products straight away, you may potentially gain a booking from a new client. Retail will follow!”

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 47

CHRISTMASRETAIL

GIFT VOUCHERS Liz McKeon

International salon business expert, Liz McKeon, shares five ways to promote and encourage the sale of gift vouchers. www.lizmckeon.com

“The Christmas season is an opportune time to make some profit for your beauty salon or spa and increase retail sales. Selling gift vouchers or gift cards is a great way to keep clients coming back and means you can stay busy after the holiday season. They also prompt multiple appointments because the voucher has already been paid for. “Selling gift vouchers regularly helps to secure your business and maintain a healthy cash flow. With the right marketing strategy, it can help to promote your brand, too.”

1 2

Place gift vouchers around the salon. Use these items as part of the décor so that clients are aware that gift vouchers are available. Change these items at least once a week to maximise exposure. Send an email newsletter to your database highlighting the benefits of gift vouchers. Announcements about their availability can help increase voucher sales and promote your brand. Time your email distribution appropriately, as a 10day lead time before the Christmas rush is a good starting point to help clients think about giving your vouchers as gifts.

3 4 5

Make sure your salon displays information about gift vouchers. Ensure your website is up-to-date about how easy it is to purchase gift vouchers from you. Provide information about their availability, highlighting the benefits of giving them. Offer free gift wrapping. Clients and shoppers appreciate this extra touch and it adds more perceived value to the purchase. Invest in some eye-catching envelopes, decorative ribbon or small gift boxes for your vouchers and turn them into a real ‘gift’. Include a coupon or offer with purchase. Give the giver a small gift such as a free product, a coupon for a future service for themselves, or a salon voucher with a smaller amount already loaded onto it. Incentives to purchase a gift voucher can boost salon retail sales and encourage more clients to turn to you instead of a competitor.

FOR SMALLER SPACES Are you a small salon, mobile stylist or pro with limited workspace? Don’t shy away from retailing, as you can still make the most of space on the nail desk to sell products. Pull out a display of your latest lacquer collection or handbag-friendly products and pop on the desk to attract the eye. Talk about the shades or products while you work, suggesting the client takes one home for use over the festive period.

Selling spotlight The Lisa & Lou initiative, launched by nail and beauty distribution company, Louella Belle, empowers beauty pros to sell on their own terms without having to invest in or manage their own web shop. Named after Lisa Crook, founder of Louella Belle and the legacy she left behind, the Lisa & Lou online platform allows pros to generate extra revenue by selling retail products. This helps elevate the client’s treatment experience, without the pro needing to buy and carry inventory.

Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer I Wanna Dance Winter 2022 Collection £4.95 + VAT/ RRP £9.95 each www.louellabelle.co.uk Created in collaboration with the cinema release of I Wanna Dance With Somebody, this collection features six shades inspired by the beauty, charisma and life of iconic superstar, Whitney Houston.

Magpie Beauty Glitter File Retail Stand £33 + VAT/RRP £3 each www.magpiebeauty.co.uk Featuring 36 files total (six of each shade), each 240-grit file is wrapped in an individual sleeve. Colours in the range include gold, pink and purple.

CND™ Daily Detox Bauble £4.70 + VAT/ RRP £8.95 www.sweetsquared.com This compact bauble can be hung on Christmas trees or around the nail space to attract attention. It features a SolarOil™ Pinkie, Rescue RXx™ Pinkie and a mini file.

48 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Clients can purchase products, knowing that every product listed on Lisa & Lou is hand-picked by their trusted beauty therapist. On signing up to Lisa & Lou, pros can expect a unique link to direct customers to their very own web shop, and an opportunity to earn a minimum of 25% commission on all retail sales.

Rachel Herar

“Lisa & Lou has transformed my business,” comments Rachel Herar, Louella Belle brand ambassador & owner of Beauty By Rachel Herar. “I regularly share the link to my online shop so my clients can browse in their own time. I think this is going to be brilliant for Christmas shopping!

“Lisa & Lou avoids the issue of leftover stock as you never have to store lots of items. I’m really looking forward to this Christmas as I won’t have anything left over with clients ordering directly though my Lisa & Lou shop.” For more information, visit www.lisalou.co.uk

CHRISTMASRETAIL

ROUTE TO MARKET

Active promotion of your retail products is vital to make clients aware of your offerings, so that they come prepared with money to spend at their next appointment. “Don’t just rely on one marketing method to promote your products,” warns Sarah Hartley. “Share pictures of your retail items and offers on all your social media platforms; as posts, on your Instagram story and as reels. Also consider printing leaflets to put through the doors of those local to you, and to give to nearby businesses to display. Community magazines or Facebook groups may also be willing to share your offers, so send them an email or submit a post with some pictures.”

SOMETHING FOR THE KIDS Allow your nail and beauty clients to snap up a gift for their children after their appointment. Place by the till and talk through the benefits of each of the gifts as you book in their New Year mani.

Ruth Atkins agrees that social media is a quick and effective way to show clients the retail items that you stock – but posting regularly, and as soon as possible, is important. “Make sure you respond to all comments positively and engage with your followers,” she adds. “Don’t forget that word of mouth is a great marketing tool, so encourage your clients to share their positive thoughts with their contacts, and look at ways to reward them with a voucher, small discount on a product or complementary add-on service.”

Elf Eyes Self Heating Eye Masks (5pk) with Wish Wand £7.50 + VAT/RRP £19.50 & The Lost Wish Paperback Book £4.95 + VAT/RRP £9.95 www.sharedbeautysecrets.com ElflandUK helps spa and salon guests introduce their little ones to the benefits of spa and wellness through products and experiences. Created by Sensory Retreats founder, Clare Anderson, ElflandUK teaches children aged 5 to 12 the importance of wellbeing, courage, compassion and self-belief.

Does your nail business have a website? If you can, introduce a shopping feature to give clients – and non-clients – the option to buy their gifts online. “Shopify and WooCommerce have some excellent user-friendly solutions,” says Cara Shanks. “Make sure you are using keywords on your website to make gifts easier to find and view. “Over 50% of people use Instagram to discover new brands, and over 40% of people use Instagram to shop. Promote the brands you sell online, or encourage people to visit your salon space. If your budget permits, consider social media ads, too.”

The team at Rainbow Nails, Plymouth, gets clients in the festive spirit by wearing custom Christmas jumpers.

Events are also a great way to celebrate the holiday and attract prospective clients while allowing you to socialise with existing ones. Advertise a Christmas shopping event and offer festive food treats while clients browse your retail offerings. It’s a fun way to make a number of sales in just one evening.

PARTY PREP Christmas is a busy time of year for hair and beauty businesses, with clients seeking services in time for Christmas parties and family gatherings. Capitalise on their party needs by stocking items to complete their look.

Salon System Naturalash LashLUX in 007 £4.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide. These mink styled, C-curled strip lashes provide instant volume and texture in minutes to enhance a glam party season look.

Lecenté Moisturising Lotion for Hands & Feet £5.99 + VAT/RRP £13.95 www.lecente.com This fast-absorbing lotion deeply moisturises and hydrates skin. It features argan oil, shea butter and vitamin E.

Mickey Jingle All The Way Body Shimmer £6.99 inc VAT www.madbeauty.com. For trade orders, email sales@madbeauty.com Shimmering and fragranced with an aroma of frosted berries, this refreshing body mist offers a silver sheen from head to toe to elevate a glam festive look.

Studex Tiny Tips Retail Display Stand £70 + VAT (18-piece) www.studexuk.com An ideal counter top display, this stand features six packs each of six different earring styles with promotional materials. Studex Tiny Tips Retail Display Stand £192 + VAT (72-piece) www.studexuk.com Perfect for larger salons with a higher turnover of piercing services, this display stand features two each of 36 styles of Tiny Tips earrings, which are hypo-allergenic and sterilised. The Tiny Tips range is available in 24ct gold plated and a surgical grade of stainless steel, which has a safety butterfly back.

CHRISTMAS LEFTOVERS It’s not just turkey that may be left over this Christmas! Often, when you stock up on seasonal products, you may not sell every item before the occasion passes. So how can you avoid buying excess stock – and make money from what’s left? “Before you place an order for retail stock, look back at last year’s sales, predict whether you expect an increase or decrease in sales, and order accordingly,” suggests Cara Shanks. “When the products arrive, make sure that prices and promotions are clear so that your clients know what they’re buying and for how much. Put products in bowls and on shelves at the till point to make sure they are accessible and visible.” “Gather up any leftover stock and create bespoke beauty hampers,” suggests Ruth Atkins. “It’s something you can do all year-round, not just at Christmas. Customers will love a ready-made gift box and you can even theme it, such as a ‘going out’, ‘staying in’ or ‘hands and feet’ hamper. Any festive gift sets that you’ve not sold can be unpacked and sold individually in the New Year or added to a Valentine’s Day or Mother’s Day hamper, as long as they are still within their use by date.”

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 49

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MONEYMATTERS

Deals for

Digits CHLOE RANDALL shares top tips for making the most of Black Friday to incentivise clients & increase takings

Define it

With the countdown to Christmas now on, start thinking about Black Friday and Cyber Monday deals to attract new clients while exciting your regulars. Shaking things up and spoiling clients with a delightful discount can make them keen to spend money with you; on treatments and gifts for both themselves and their loved ones for Christmas. Scratch shares top tips for making the most of Black Friday (25 November) and Cyber Monday (28 November)…

Marketing

Spreading the word about the plans you have for Black Friday and Cyber Monday is incredibly important to ensure the hard work you put in produces a fruitful outcome. Letting clients know what to expect ahead of Black Friday is a great way to guarantee they don’t forget to visit you for great deals and gift options.

Top marketing techniques:

Paid ads – boosting your posts on social media or investing in Google ads is a fantastic way to reach an audience beyond your following who may be interested in beauty services. Enticing them with a Black Friday offer could lead to them becoming a regular client. Text messages & newsletters – Sending a mass message via your salon software system is a quick and effective way to alert clients about your deals.

52 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Black Friday: An American tradition, Black Friday is the Friday after Thanksgiving in the United States and traditionally marks the start of the Christmas shopping season. To honour it, many stores and businesses tend to offer highly discounted deals. Black Friday practices have extended worldwide, with the ‘deal day’ falling on 25 November this year. Cyber Monday: This day lands on the Monday after Thanksgiving in the USA. The main difference between Black Friday and Cyber Monday is that online retailers offer great deals and discounts on this day, rather than physical stores.

Be prepared

Turn to In the UK last year, consumers page 44 to explore spent £9.42 billion over the a selection of Black Friday weekend, according to data products to retail website, Sale Cycle. Therefore, in order this season. to make sure you don’t miss out, ensure you are stocked up on retail options and vouchers. Be mindful that you may need more staff members working across Black Friday weekend.

To explore Black Friday deals from nail and beauty brands, visit www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/offers

MONEYMATTERS

Gift cards

Gift cards are a great way for clients to buy their loved ones a pamper session, which could then lead to them becoming a regular client. As a Black Friday special, consider offering a deal where you add value onto a gift card. For example, if the client has purchased a gift card for £25, you could increase its value to £30 on Black Friday. This deal could be offered on Cyber Monday too, as you could sell the same offer via your website.

Buy three, get one free!

Lee Archer Products is offering one free gel polish or powder when you buy three at www.leearcherproducts.com

SAVE £20!

Upselling

If discounts and sales aren’t for you, consider upgrading your clients’ treatments for free on Black Friday. If they book a regular gel manicure, upgrade it to a luxury one with a free hand massage for no added cost. If they enjoy this experience, they may be more likely to treat themselves to a luxury manicure next time, which will result in more revenue for you.

OFFER

Here are some deals from nail and beauty brands to note this Black Friday. For more offers, head to www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/offers.

Host a Black Friday event

Host an event so that clients can visit the salon, try a treatment and receive a goody bag for a small fee. Investing in events is great for word of mouth promotion and your social media platforms, as it can attract new clients.

Get your hands on the Mundo Sanitizing Hand & Foot Spray 2L refill for £9.95 + VAT, saving £20. Available while stocks last at www.mundoproducts.co.uk

30% off!

Glamcor is offering a 30% discount across all lights 24-29 November 2022. Choose between single or double arm models, combinations with extractor/fan or a camera holder, or opt for the ultimate light of all the Glamcor ring light. Discounts are automatically applied at www.flirties.co.uk/collections/lighting during this period.

Buy two, get one free!

Stock up

Don’t forget – you won’t be the only business with Black Friday and Cyber Monday deals, so check the deals of your distributor and stock up on products you purchase regularly, while they are at a reduced price.

Buy two, get one free across the Studex ranges (same item free)*. Available online only to registered members (excluding retail stands and kits). www.studexuk.com

10% off!

The Christmas calendar With Black Friday taking place in November, it is the perfect time to fill your calendar for December. Encourage your clients to book their Christmas appointments in advance by offering them a discount if they book on Black Friday or Cyber Monday. This will mean you feel more organised ahead of the busy season and your clients will, too.

TOP TIP

Ensure your cancellation policies are updated accordingly and take a deposit from your clients so you don’t risk losing out on money from no-shows.

Turn to page 86 for advice on managing cancellations.

35% off

The ProGel is offering its biggest sale of the year with 35% off products on the website on 25 November. www.theprogel.com

35% off!

Nellie Rose is offering 35% off cuticle oil pens and desk oils exclusively for Scratch readers. Use code ‘scratch’ at checkout. www.nellierose.co.uk

Find the right space to work from with 10% off any Patch on HotPatch. Scan here to redeem

Up to 60% off!

50% off!

Get 50% off at The Gel Obsession for Black Friday. www.thegelobsession.com

Nailchemy is offering an automatic discount on products purchased online 25-30 November. Visit www.nailchemy.co.uk.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 53

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

STYLE WITH

e i d a S

‘ Creative nail expert & content creator for TGB & Peacci, SADIE JORDAN, shares on-trend nail styles, tips & steps

Textured tips

Instagram.com/meraki_nails_cardiff

extures and embellishments can elevate nail creations and be styled to suit any season. There is an abundance of pre-made charms and colourful crystals on the market, but there’s something so rewarding in hand-painting, sculpting and building your own 3D elements to add to nails. Although this is more time-consuming, it allows for total creative freedom and customisation, depending on your client’s request or your design idea. There are many ways to create embellishments, including the use of L&P acrylic hard gel and even BIAB™! The possibilities are endless if you have a creative vision.

STEP-BY-STEP: 3D cable knit tips In this tutorial, I show one of the many ways you can use Studio Acrylic Powder from The GelBottle Inc. Here, I used it to create these winter-ready, 3D textured cable knit French tips. I chose the deep red TGB shade, Bonfire, for the tips as it reminds me of the warmth of an open fire. However, this design is very versatile and looks amazing in frosty pastels as well as bold, bright shades.

3D & textured nail art inspiration

Step 1 Following prep and application of your chosen TGB base coat, apply two coats of TGB in Crème, curing each coat for 60 seconds. Step 2 Using the TGB Liner 01 Brush and Bonfire shade, paint guidelines for a French-style tip. Step 3 Fill in the tip using the Liner 01 Brush for the sides and the brush inside the gel polish bottle for the remainder of the nail. Cure and repeat if desired. Step 4 Apply Matte Top Coat to the nails and cure for 60 seconds. Step 5 Using Bonfire and the Liner 01 Brush, paint up to four vertical lines on top of the matte red tip. Next, use a detail brush to create ‘S’ shapes and diagonal lines inside the four lines. Do not cure. Step 6 Carefully sprinkle TGB Studio Acrylic Powder over the nail using a cuticle pusher as a scoop. Cure while the nails are covered with the powder. Step 7 Dust away the excess powder with a Dusting Brush to reveal the textured tips.

Make it matte

I love this cable knit mani by @meraki_nails_cardiff. She combines the textured stone gel polish hue, Dolce, from the House of TGB collection, with TGB Studio Acrylic Powder. This combination creates a multi-textured look that offers a subtle twist on a classic winter design.

Dainty details

High-shine blobs

This bright and juicy nail style by @AnouskaAnastasia features a vibrant airbrush-effect base. The colours have been magnified with abstract blobs and swirls, created with TGB’s GelPot in Clear, to finish the futuristic look. This design would be perfect for clients travelling abroad for some winter sun.

Raised up reptiles

Use 3D art gel or acrylic powder to create a raised scale pattern over the entire nail or just on the tips, as shown in this design by fellow Scratch columnist, @nails_by_annabel_m. Experiment with a matte base and glossy scales (or vice versa) as desired to create an eye-catching look. 54 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Instagram.com/nails_by_annabel_m

Instagram.com/anouskaanastasia

Try adding smaller 3D elements to nails, as I did to this ombré French-style mani. I used Studio Acrylic Powder to add depth to the daisy petals and placed small amounts of glitter inside each flower. I finished the design with dots of Extreme Shine Top Coat to contrast with the matte base. Watch the reel of me creating this nail style on on my Instagram, @SadieJNails.

Follow Sadie:

@sadiejnails

The GelBottle Inc products are available via www.thegelbottle.com /thegelbottleinc

@the_gelbottle_inc

/TheGelBottleInc

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SHOP AT TRADE.OPIUK.COM ALSO AVAILABLE AT CAPITAL HAIR & BEAUTY

NAILTRENDS

Photo by Thomas Concordia/Getty Images for The Blonds

FASHION WEEK

focus Scratch rounds up nail looks that ruled the runway at spring/summer 2023 Fashion Weeks across the globe

NEW YORK THE BLONDS

Design duo, The Blonds, called upon CND™ nail stylists to create looks for their spring 2023 show at New York Fashion Week. The fashion collection is a tribute to the first summer the designers shared, inspired by escapism, glamour and New York City nightlife. It features the brand’s signature over-the-top looks with golden hardware and crystals, which were dripping off the clothes and nails. CND™ co-founder, Jan Arnold, selected nail stylists, Julie Kandalec and Lavette Cephus, to lead the nail looks, which were ‘dipped in chain, wrapped in chain and framed in chain’, as well as ‘gold studs’ and ‘navy pearls’. Products used included CND™ Plexigel™ Builder, CND Shellac™ in Black Pool and Indigo Frock, and CND™ Over The Top Effects in Pearl Obsession. CND™ Over The Top Effects in

CND Shellac™ in Black Pool £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Pearl Obsession (sold as part of a 4-piece set) £40 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

TGB Studio Gels™ Liquid Metallic in Mirror Chrome £13 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Model wears JINsoon Nail Lacquer in Vanity to match her eyebrows.

Editorial manicurist, Jin Soon Choi, was tasked with achieving ‘imperfect perfection’ for designer, Peter Do. Using her own brand, JINsoon Nail Lacquer, she created bold red and blue nail looks. Ombré styles inspired by the collection’s prints were also achieved, alongside nude and black nails with delicate silver foil. All looks complemented Do’s structured, versatile and largely genderless ready-to-wear collection.

JINsoon Nail Lacquer in Vanity £POA www.jinsoon.com

Instagram.com/10piecenails

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‘ Nail Lacquer Peacci in Royal Navy £6 + VAT/RRP £10 www.thegelbottle.com

TOMMY HILFIGER

KIM SHUI

The 10 Piece Nails team created standout black, white and silver nail looks for Kim Shui’s showcase. The collection featured edgy ensembles in contrasting textures, including sheer fabrics offset with satin and brocade effects. Pops of colour added intrigue and were featured on some of the nail looks in swirl shapes to complement.

Instagram.com/naominailsnyc

Instagram.com/jinsoonchoi

PETER DO

Tommy Hilfiger’s signature blue and red hues extended from clothing to fingertips for the design house’s spring/summer 2023 showcase. The GelBottle Inc was the official nail partner for the brand, with nail styles led by Naomi Yasuda (@naominailsnyc). Eight nail looks featured, from striped red and blue styles to striking silver and a cobalt blue design with the TH logo. Yasuda and her team used Studio Gels™ Liquid Metallic Mirror Chrome and the TGB ‘ brush range alongside TGB and Peacci nail shades.

NAILTRENDS

LONDON Instagram.com/sylviemacmillan.nails

EDWARD CRUTCHLEY

Fashion & celebrity manicurist, Marie-Louise Coster, led the nail team for Edward Crutchley, at which three nail looks were created to suit the ‘ethereal, mythological and under-the-sea’ style of the clothing collection. “The three looks went from dry to wet,” shares Marie-Louise. “The first was a natural, nude-cream nail, while the second had the addition of a sandy, gritty-like texture. The final look was the most glamorous; a mermaid-meets-petrol finish.” The nail styles were created on natural nails or Elegant Touch press-ons, with Artistic Nail Design shades used.

KNWLS

PARIS

TOKYO JAMES

ANDREAS KRONTHALER FOR VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

Instagram.com/cecilia.abbas_

Instagram.com/mlcnailartist

Nail looks maintained Vivienne Westwood’s quirky signature style as the collaborative collection with husband and fellow fashion designer, Andreas Kronthaler, took to the runway. Chaotic contrasts of mesh socks and high platforms, paired with ragged cardigans and broad shoulders were complemented by avant-garde nail looks led by Mei Kawajiri (@nailsbymei). Models wore nails of varying lengths and shapes, with tartan and glitter mixes and additions of glitter.

DEL CORE

NYC fashion manicurist, Dawn Sterling (@nailglam), jetted to Milan to lead the nail looks for Del Core, assisted by a team of seven manicurists. Clothing was inspired by designer, Daniel Del Core’s, marine adventures and featured fluid looks and satin fabrics. Sterling and her team painted nails in a florescent nude nail polish and added chrome to fingers for a dipped effect. A glossy clear pedicure complemented this style, and other models work short black half matte, half glossy press-on nails. Sterling used products by Kiara Sky and reshaped the nails into an almond shape before adding colour.

Instagram.com/danielsmedeman

Instagram.com/oliviagane.nails

‘Church’ was the name of the spring/summer collection from design house, Tokyo James, which saw dark, gothic looks for the season. Predominantly black with accents of green lurex and blue broderie anglaise, the dark tones extended onto the nails, which were headed up by Marie-Louise Coster. “The female nail look was a black pedicure and an extended glam, black and glossy nail with a painted black finger,” she explains. The talented tech made around 240 nails prior to the show. Male models wore a natural and clean manicure.

Instagram.com/mlcnailartist

MILAN

Instagram.com/nailsbymei

RIXO’s SS23 collection was inspired by founder, Orlagh McCloskey’s trip to Goa. While visiting the Fontainhas area, known as Goa’s Latin quarter, she noticed the similarities to RIXO’s brand DNA within the intricate ceramics, tile patterns and bright, bold buildings in the town. This was reflected in the nail looks, which included a punchy peach shade from the Manucurist range, applied by Secret Spa UK therapists.

BOTTER PARIS

Manicurist, Daniel Smedeman, headed up the nail looks for Botter Paris, assisted by Cecilia Abbas and Alex Feller. The ‘aquatic concrete’ nail looks were achieved using cement and acrylic to create a cracked, weathered look. This style was fitting for the Botter Paris collection, ‘The Plastic Sea’, which explored the idea of bringing water to the runway. Clothing showcased elongated silhouettes that ‘peeled off the body like a wet suit would’, and the collection was designed and made with nature in mind. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 57

Instagram.com/nailsbymei

Instagram.com/secretspauk

RIXO

The nails for KNWLS made a statement in silver, courtesy of lead manicurist, Sylvie Macmillan, and her team of seven. The ‘spearhead’ look with a touch of texture complemented KNWLS’ ‘Glimmer’ collection, which featured the brand’s signature mesh tops and angular accessories but with an added dose of sparkle which transitioned up to the hair.

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

JUST ADD

2022 WINNER

ABOUT ANNABEL

Annabel Maginnis studied fashion and make-up artistry in London before moving into the nail world in 2015. Her notable creative flair in the field saw her Instagram following skyrocket. Fuelled by momentum, she opened her own salon, Nails By Annabel, in Newcastle, and in 2017, supported by husband, Elliott, the duo launched Glitterbels – a professional range of nail products. In 2021, the business was awarded the Scratch Stars Shooting Star Award based on its growth, popularity and provision of education and products for pros. The Glitterbels education team scooped the Scratch Stars Nail Team of the Year award 2022.

r e t t gli Help your business sparkle & nail designs shine with advice & inspo from ANNABEL MAGINNIS, co-founder of Glitterbels

How to grow your social media profile

hen I first trained to become a nail technician, I never thought that social media would have impacted my life in the way it has. We all know that it’s essential for showcasing your work to a large audience, but it’s so much more than that. Social media acts as a shop window for nail technicians, revealing skills, products, techniques and points of difference. Social media helps users to connect and share ideas with like-minded people and communities, however it is constantly changing. Sometimes, the conveyor belt of trends can be hard to keep up with, so here are my top tips to help you attract attention...

Photos

A good photo has the potential to boost your social media engagement significantly. I’m sure I’m not the only nail tech who has hundreds of snaps of their nail creations on their phone. The important thing is to use them! I take photos of the same nails in various hand positions so that I have a selection to choose from when I go to post.

www.glitterbels.com /Nailsbyannabelm & /GlitterbelsbyAnnabel @nails_by_annabel_m & @glitterbels /Nailsbyannabelm & /Glitterbels 58 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

When taking nailfies, I always make sure that my lighting is good. Natural daylight is always best, but sometimes a good desk light can do the trick. A good source of light will help capture the small details within a design. I also like to take my

photos in front of a minimal background, as this really pulls focus on the nails.

Videos

As TikTok has grown, we have seen platforms such as Instagram and Facebook make creating video content, such as tutorials, easier than before. Tutorials are my favourite videos to make as I love filming the process of creating a nail design, and it’s an effective way to share techniques with the nail community. When recording videos, I like to focus on lighting, much like I do with still photos, and I get really close to the nail. This way, viewers can see all the design elements – and of course, the glitter!

Posts & comments

It’s important to stay active on social media. I try to post regularly and share my favourite posts to my Instagram story. This way, followers can see what I like and trends that I enjoy, as well as work by Glitterbels ambassadors. I also love interacting with posts by other nail technicians. Tagging is vital when it comes to social media posts. I always tag or detail what products I have used or which nail tech has inspired me. I look forward to seeing your creations!

Annabel x

The Creative Beauty Group

Tel: 01202 876734

55b Cobham Road

www.thecreativebeautygroup.co.uk

Ferndown Industrial Estate Dorset

thecreativebeautygroup

SCAN HERE to learn about NEW and exciting products!

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Notes from

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

The Beauty Guru Salon owner, Habia advisor & inclusivity awareness educator, SAM MARSHALL (she/her), serves up advice to better your business & ensure that it’s inviting to all

DEI & a focus on spending

EI can sometimes be confusing. For small business owners without the luxury of an HR department, it may be a new consideration – but it does require your attention.

Firstly, what is DEI? It stands for diversity, equity and inclusion. I recently spoke at a spa convention and used a shoe-based analogy that was randomly sent to me by Belinda Mindset (www.belindamindset.com). Look her up online, as she is brilliant.

Here’s the analogy… Diversity means that everyone gets to have different shoes. Put this in the context of a diverse treatment list, workforce or client list. Equality (we used to use this as the ‘E’ in DEI) is making sure everyone has shoes. For example, anyone can book a nail service. Equity is making sure that everyone has shoes that fit. This could mean adapting your salon, treatment room or services to ensure that everyone has the chance to get a treatment that is right for them. Do you offer a silent service? Are you accessible? Is your treatment list gender neutral? Inclusion means that you invite people to have shoes. Is your business welcoming to anyone to apply to work? What about clients; would anyone be welcome?

“Equity is making sure that everyone has shoes that fit. This could mean adapting your salon, treatment room or services and that it’s OK. Belonging means that can be themselves without the fear to ensure that everyone ofpeople judgment. has the chance to get Creating a workplace that meets all of the a treatment that is above might not be instantly achievable, but should be something to work towards. right for them.”

A couple of other words that resonated are ‘acceptance’ and ‘belonging’. Acceptance is understanding that we are different, 62 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Sam

(she/her)

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

“Gift your top 10 clients a voucher for a friend that hasn’t had a treatment with you. This way, you get someone like your client as a new customer and reward your top client for booking an appointment with you.”

Top tips for maximising profit this Christmas I’m sure you are in the throes of creating packages and gifting ideas for clients. In the current economic climate, we need to be savvy with our spending, so here are some hints and tips to help you save, while still making a profit. • Use existing products to make up Christmas kits. You may have some odd products and overstock that you can wrap up and retail, rather than ordering lots of new stock. Add vouchers, candy canes, chocolates, hot chocolate sachets and candles to your kits. • Connect with local businesses to create a ‘local hamper’ with items from each of your businesses. You could go one step further and do a hamper for hands with local shops that sell gloves, hand creams and hand-poured candles, and you might even find a local tipple to include. People hold drinks, so they count! Incentives to shop local are popular, as is charity, so consider a donation from the sale of each hamper to a local food bank. Collaborating on hampers with local businesses means that they’ll be selling your products, too. • Promote gift vouchers that are valid from January to March to allow for price increases you may make later in the year. I personally increase my prices on 1 December.

• Add little extras to services that don’t cost much, such as hot stones for a hand massage, a warm wheat bag on the client’s shoulders, or a hot water bottle to heat up their chair before they arrive. Think about what you can do at a low cost to stand out from other salons. • Do you want to attract clients that are similar to your regulars? Gift your top 10 clients a voucher for a friend who hasn’t had a treatment with you. This way, you get someone like your client as a new customer and reward your top client for booking an appointment with you. You also never let the friend know the appointment is free, so your top client gets to give a gift to a friend that they didn’t have to pay for. • Think now about your January offers. I used to offer a ‘January Gels’ promotion, whereby the client had two fresh sets of gel enhancements in the month, with a soak off at a slight discount. This guaranteed busy diaries and we got money upfront for the offer. As much as I hate discounting, this method works if your January diary is bare. • Sell packages you can only use in January, such as a lunchtime treat added to appointments in January. We underestimate the power of a foot soak and massage!

MONTHLY MUSING I recently saw a call out for ADHD nail techs to contribute to an article in a beauty publication. It’s so important to have conversations about neurodiversity and learn about areas we are not familiar with. You may have a condition or have employees or clients that do – so the more we can learn, the better.

Sam holds monthly Habia-endorsed Trans Awareness Training webinars. To book, visit www.thebeautyguru.me/trans-awareness-training @betransaware @beautygurusam

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TECHTALK

MINUTES WITH…

The Halo VIP gives Scratch a peek into her career journey & shares her favourite Pure Nails products

Jessica Radford

How did your nail industry journey begin? I have always enjoyed getting my nails done and decided to enrol on a nail course while furloughed during the first lockdown. The aim was to work parttime as a nail tech once I returned to my role, but fast forward a few weeks and I decided to take a leap and leave my full-time job to focus on a career in nails. I worked in two salons before I had the opportunity to convert an outhouse in my parents’ garden in Yorkshire into a nail studio, which is where I am now based.

Describe an average working day... My day usually starts at 9.30am and finishes around 8pm. I offer L&P acrylic, builder gel, gel polish and brow services. Some of my clients love block colour styles and others prefer nail art, so I like that there is variety in my work. In between clients, I either search for design inspiration, post on Instagram, try new nail shades or designs, or sit with my golden doodle, Stanley.

Halo Acrylic Powder in Cover Pink (45g) £12.06 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

How do you wear your nails? My go-to shape is almond and I tend to wear L&P enhancements, created using Halo Acrylic Powder in Cover Pink. I love experimenting with designs so change my nail look often, but I normally opt for styles involving bold colours or a French tip.

FUN FACT

Before I became a nail tech, my full-time job was to organise bin collections. My work life has changed a lot – and is now much more creative!

How did you become a Halo VIP? I started using Halo early on in my nail career but in the last year, I’ve really expanded my colour collection because the coverage is brilliant. After tagging @purenailsuk in my Instagram posts and listing which of the brand’s products I’d used, I was asked to be a Platinum VIP. It was amazing to receive recognition for my work. As a VIP, I regularly post designs alongside full product information and a discount code for the Pure Nails website. Whenever I receive a new Halo product, I either make an Instagram post or reel to promote it.

What are your favourite Pure Nails products? I love Halo Gel Polish, as the colour range is extensive and the formula offers long-lasting coverage. Ocean blue hue, Out Of The Blue and bright pink shade, Girl Power, are my top picks.

Halo Gel Polish in Out Of The Blue & Girl Power £5.95 + VAT each www.purenails.co.uk

FUN FACT

If I wasn’t in the nail industry, I would be working with animals, probably in a rescue centre. 64 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

@byjessicar

WELLBEINGMATTERS

Mindful work models Be inspired by our roundup of ideas & initiatives to improve employee & client wellbeing REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS

Wellbeing is a much more talked-about topic than in the past. There is a common awareness of how crucial wellness is in both personal and professional spheres and even more so in the beauty industry, which focuses on benefitting self-esteem and promoting calm, happy feelings. However, an open dialogue and implementing wellness initiatives are very different, and it can be tricky to know where and how to make changes within your beauty business. Here, we talk to pros about the steps they’ve taken to improve the wellbeing of staff and clients and source advice for you to do the same.

Staff schemes

“Positive workplace wellbeing is crucial, as a team’s attitude is what drives a brand to grow,” explains Elissa Newton, Lecenté educator & owner of Derry salon, The Nail Lady. “Staff not being in harmony or one Elissa Newton individual not being on a positive frequency can affect the running of a business. Knowing your team, individually and as a collective, is paramount, so it’s a good idea to have team gatherings at the beginning of each day. Focus on what’s going well, for example by sharing success stories and envisioning how the day is going to flow in a positive manner.”

“Knowing your team, individually and as a collective, is paramount.” 66 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

5 WAYS TO BOOST EMPLOYEE WELLBEING By Elissa Newton

1. Show recognition and appreciate staff regularly. 2. Provide access to wellness tools, such as daily rituals, meditation, visioneering, goal setting and even a therapist to provide a safe space to speak. 3. Offer flexible working hours to suit individual staff members. 4. Organise team bonding events both inside and outside of the work environment. 5. Promote time out for breaks, allowing the team to recharge.

WELLBEINGMATTERS

Self-employed guidance

“When you are self-employed, treat yourself as you would treat a member of staff, and be the best boss to yourself,” advises Sophie Donaldson, Georgie Smedley Group ambassador & owner of Sophie’s Cosy Corner in Kent. “No Sophie Donaldson boss would get away with asking a staff member to not have a lunch break, work seven days a week, or not get a certain amount of holiday per year. Don’t forget that you are working to give yourself a happy life, so it’s important to raise your prices in line with inflation, allow for sick days and time off, and cover your pension in your pricing,” she continues.

Client care

Elissa Newton’s salon, The Nail Lady, in Derry

“Wellbeing treatments aren’t just suited to the holistic side of beauty. Why not offer wellness manicures and pedicures?” asks Elissa Newton. “In my salon, we use the Lecenté Spa Range, as the scents of the products create a calm atmosphere. Other small touches that boost wellbeing include dimmed lights, scented candles, relaxing music, a hand/foot massage and cuticle oil slightly warmed before application.”

Product picks

CNDTM Pro Skincare Hydrating Lotion (Hands & Feet) from £20.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

OPI ProSpa Nail & Cuticle Oil £8.90 + VAT www.trade.opiuk.com

Mii Relax + Tone Foot Massage Cream £38 + VAT www.gerrardinternational.com

Lecenté Conditioning Scrub For Hands & Feet £7.99 + VAT www.lecente.com

Service spotlight

Scratch chats to multi awardwinning mobile therapist, Hayley Snishko of Home Sanctuary, about her campaign, Massage4MentalHealth, which aims Hayley Snishko to raise awareness of the mental health benefits of massage therapy. What inspired you to launch Massage4MentalHealth? After giving birth in 2017, a tidal wave of suppressed childhood trauma resurfaced and over the years, I suffered with PTSD, severe depression and anxiety. The biggest shock was the physical effects of these mental health issues – I was exhausted and felt like I had a 30-tonne rock on my chest and my muscles had turned to lead. A couple of years later, I experienced the effects of massage for the first time and the physical benefits were astounding. My body felt alive, calm and light again and this renewed strength gave me the capacity to deal with my mental health issues. I’ve been a massage therapist for nearly 15 years, but to experience the impact of massage therapy when I needed it most opened my eyes and inspired me to launch Massage4MentalHealth. Tell us about the benefits of massage therapy... I’ve worked with many different clients: those healing from grief, divorce, illness, trauma and more, and while everyone’s story is different, the feeling of calm after their massage is always the same. It is well documented that massage relieves stress and relaxes muscles, but clients are booking treatments to help their depression and anxiety, rather than as a form of physiotherapy. How can salons incorporate massage as a wellness treatment? The most important thing to do is have a selection of treatments yourself, because as therapists, we need to experience what we’re offering to clients. I would also recommend reading the research behind massage therapy and mental health, as this will help you to promote massage therapy as a wellness option. Visit www.massage4mentalhealth.com to get started. To contact Hayley, scan here

Salon talk

Hampshire beauty salon, The Sanctuary, Botley, offers clients an incentive to take time out for themselves through its wellbeing club. “Members subscribe for £10 per month, in return receiving a £20 voucher Victoria Page which can be used against a wellbeing treatment,” comments Victoria Page, beauty therapist & head trainer at the salon. “Other benefits include 5% off subsequent treatments and 10% off retail products. Those who sign up tend to become wellbeing advocates and make multiple salon bookings, creating repeat custom and client loyalty for the salon. “At The Sanctuary, Botley, we have devised our own signature relaxation therapy treatment: a hybrid massage/light touch-based therapy, which has proved to be popular,” continues Victoria. “To boost wellbeing, we also promote massage, hot stones, facials and reflexology to balance energy levels.” The Sanctuary, Botley, will be offering training for its signature relaxation therapy treatment in 2023. For further information, follow @thesanctuarybotley on social media.

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PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

Colour is

Art

MEET THE SHADES

Embrace a kaleidoscope of shades with Colorworld, CND™s biggest colour launch to date Over 170 shades make up CND™’s total colour coating offering, each carefully created to complement seasonal trends and client demands. The brand prides itself on its design-led creations and boasts opaque, semi-sheer and sheer hues. All are available in both Shellac™ and Vinylux™ formulas to suit all nail finish desires and artistic needs.

Maple Leaves A burnt orange to set a look ablaze

Love Letter An adoring deep yet bright blush pink

Running Latte An energising golden yellow with hints of brown to mellow

We Want Mauve Opaque nude-mauve

Petal Party Mauve mixed with hint of rose, like a bouquet

Rose-mance A dark shade of rose

Above My Pay Gray-ed A solid stone grey

Mulberry Tart Purple with a pop of grey

Vintage Blue Jeans A dusty blue as soft as old-school denim

Renowned for its six-piece seasonal collections, CND™ is set to excite with its biggest collection to date – launching 7 November. Colorworld comprises a rainbow of 14 stunning shades, encouraging nail artists to use their wildest imagination to create limitless nail styles. “Colorworld is a land of imagination and possibility,” comments CND™ co-founder, Jan Arnold. “Together, this palette creates a harmony like an impressionist painting; a work of art with lights and darks and hues in between, and a reflection of light through movement.” CND™ worked with nail pros to create the palette of hues, based on their most common client requests. The shades are available in both Shellac™ (£13.95 + VAT each, £194.95 + VAT for the collection) and Vinylux™ (£4.95 + VAT each, £68.95 + VAT for the collection). Jan Arnold

HOT PICK

Samantha Sweet

Samantha Sweet, co-founder of Sweet Squared, UK distributor of CND™, chooses Mulberry Tart as her favourite shade from the Colorworld collection, as ‘purple is going to be a very popular colour in 2023’.

Gilded Sage All Frothed Up Light algae green for an Sheer almond white unexpected nail twist

#CNDColorworld CND™ products are available in the UK&I via www.sweetsquared.com www.sweetsquared.com /SweetSquared & /CNDofficial @sweetsquared.nails & @cndworld

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Toffee Talk A warm, sweet & desirable brown

Backyard Nuptials Sheer pink

Frosted Seaglass A muted blue-green reminiscent of the beach

RADIANCE BEAUTY SPA WESTGATE, HALIFAX T: 01282 619 977

E: SALES@REM.CO.UK

W: WWW.REM.CO.UK

Tech for TECH-NOLOGY

Techs

REBECCA HITCHON gets the scoop on high-tech launches, decodes hot topics & sources tech-savvy tips for your business

CYBER SECURITY & YOUR BUSINESS Is your business cyber secure? You may not consider your small company to be the focus of a cyber attack, but its size can make it an easy target. According to a survey by the National Hair & Beauty Federation, 56% of its members have been targeted by cyber criminals, with the vast majority suffering financial loss. While larger brands may have the resources to prevent and block attacks, you may be the only person in charge of your business’ most valuable asset; data – and cyber criminals won’t hesitate to take advantage of that.

Be aware of phishing

Imagine this scenario: your business’ data, including the personal information of clients, gets hacked – damaging not only your finances, but your reputation. What do you do? Customers put their trust in you, so imagine that trust being taken away in an instant. Hackers may then go on to ask for a ransom for the data or use it to commit fraud.

Phishing attacks usually take the form of fake emails or texts and attempt to gain private, sensitive data such as bank details and passwords. They use false pretences, such as pretending to be from a reputable company, to trick recipients into giving out information, often through fake websites that collect it as you type.

This is a worst-case scenario, but it does happen. So, we’ve rounded up ways to make your business cyber secure – and we encourage you to share them with staff, too.

Signs of phishing:

Basic data protection tips

• Use a firewall on computers: a network security device that monitors and filters incoming and outgoing network traffic, blocking unwanted connections. • Install anti-malware software, to scan incoming data and prevent malicious programmes being downloaded. • Switch to cloud-based software, as this is much safer than storing data locally on on devices and automatically backs up and encrypts your documents.

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The UK government’s Cyber Security Breaches Survey 2022 found that 83% of businesses experienced at least one phishing attempt in the 12 months before the survey. This makes phishing emails the most common form of attempted cyber attack.

• Suspicious email addresses. • Generic greetings, for example addressing you as ‘user’, ‘friend’ or your email address. • Suspicious website links or attachments. For links, hover over the text to check it. • Poor spelling and grammar. • False sense of urgency, with phrasing such as ‘act within 24 hours’. • Badly reproduced logos or designs. The National Cyber Security Centre offers free training for staff at small to medium-sized businesses, which takes under 30 minutes to complete. It includes a module on defending yourself against phishing. Scan here to find out more

Make updates Promptly installing updates for devices and apps is an important strategy to protect your business against cyber attacks. Included in updates are free security fixes to issues found in previous versions of software, making you less exposed to cyber criminals taking advantage of any security vulnerabilities.

TECH-NOLOGY

NEWS BYTE

Perfect Corp., artificial intelligence and augmented reality beauty tech solutions provider, has launched a new version of its YouCam Nails virtual try-on manicure app. It allows users to design their own nail art using different colours, stickers and digital designs, as well as apply readily available art. The technology maps the hands of users, allowing them to see the looks as a live preview on their own hands. “This virtual nail art experience invites beauty fans to explore thousands of trending nail looks and intricate designs with the tap of a smartphone, creating a truly accessible and immersive creative manicure toolkit,” says Alice Chang, founder & CEO of Perfect Corp. The company has also released a Face Reshape Simulator for aestheticians, beauty therapists and Med Spa pros, allowing clients to visualise the results of eyebrow lifts, cheek and lip filler services, jaw and nose reshapes and eyelid treatments on their face. www.perfectcorp.com

Be password protected In a 2019 survey by the Ponemon Institute research centre, 47% of small to medium-sized businesses revealed they had suffered an attack that compromised employee passwords.

Get certified

Cyber Essentials is a UK government-backed scheme, designed to protect organisations of any size against a range of common cyber attacks. It reassures existing and new clients that you have certified cyber security measures in place.

Levels of certification: • Cyber Essentials – this self-assessment questionnaire covers your business’ security controls to prevent the most common cyber attacks. • Cyber Essentials Plus – includes the self-assessment questionnaire and a technical expert will also conduct an audit of your IT systems. Interested in getting certified? Check how you meet the Cyber Essentials requirements and create an action plan to move towards them with the readiness toolkit, here

Test your cyber security UK cyber security company, FoxTech, offers a free CyberRisk score test, which identifies what your business’ system looks like to a cyber criminal and detects security weaknesses to fix. Scan here to take the test

www.twitter.com/CyberEssentials

TOP TIPS: • Never use the same password for different accounts, so hackers cannot access all your data in one go. • Create strong passwords using three random words, at least eight characters, uppercase and lowercase letters, numbers and symbols. Avoid personally identifiable information. • Use multi-step authentication (requiring both a password and code sent to your mobile/email). • Disable password saving on devices. • Passwords do not have to be changed on a regular basis, however you must do so if you suspect a cyber attack. It can be beneficial to change your Wi-Fi password regularly, as cyber criminals can impact devices through this.

Use secure Wi-Fi Hackers can use Wi-Fi to get hold of devices and therefore data, and this is particularly the case for insecure networks that can be accessed without a password, such as public hotspots. As they normally have no security encryption, cyber criminals can use them to distribute malware onto devices.

NEWS BYTE

Skincare expert, Caroline Hirons, has delved into the beauty tech realm with her free app, Skin Rocks, offering personalised skincare recommendations from a library of over 800 brands, as well as guides, ingredient information, skincare news and more. “When I launched Skin Rocks, I knew I wanted it to be led by science and with the customer’s needs front and centre,” comments Caroline. “I thought about how many times people had said ‘I wish I could take you shopping with me’ and realised that Skin Rocks needed to be a graduation of my blog, and become an app.” www.skinrocks.com

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

READERS GALLERY Essex-based pro, EMMA CLARK, shares her favourite nail designs & top product picks

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

Name – Emma Clark Age – 37 Location – Clacton-on-Sea, Essex Years in nails – 19 Favourite products – I have used Calgel since I first joined the nail industry, as the gel formula is amazing to work with and long-lasting. For detailed artistry, I turn to HD Pro Nails for art gels because they are highly pigmented and ideal for the designs I like to create. I use them with Get Buffed brushes, which are treasured items in my tool kit. Favourite nail design – I enjoy creating striking floral nails using the one stroke technique, and creating looks to match clothing for special occasions. I love when clients bring random objects to their appointments to inspire a nail design. I’ve been presented with napkins from a bridal shower, dog bow ties and even a baby’s dummy! It’s great that this then allows me to create a unique look for a client.

Career ambition & vision – When I was 21, I had many career ambitions, from owning my own salon to becoming a celebrity nail stylist travelling the globe. However, plans can change and it’s important to embrace what life brings. Now, at 37, I am quite content with working from the cabin in my back garden on a part-time basis, creating designs for my adventurous clients. I have known many of my clients longer than I have known my husband, and they have watched my children grow from babies to pre-teens. They are like family to me. Who do you admire in the industry? We are an industry that is forever evolving and growing, so I admire everyone that keeps up with trends and social media posts alongside working on clients. I love to see nail artists helping each other and showing how they achieve nail looks. We are in a very supportive industry and no one should feel like they are struggling with something they are passionate about. /emmalouisenailsmakeupbeauty @emmalouisenailartist

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SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Through the

Keyhole Take a peek inside salon setups across the UK as Scratch unlocks each door…

Beauty By Mollie Mae Location: Wetherby, West Yorkshire Mollie Mae Hiles launched her nail business from her mother’s conservatory in 2020, but was forced to leave her setup just four months later, when her mother moved into a care home following a dementia diagnosis. The talented nailist rented a desk in a hair salon while she searched for a space of her own. In April 2022, she opened her own salon on Church Street in Wetherby, delighted that her dream had become a reality sooner than expected. The salon was formerly a small shop, and Mollie Mae was keen to maximise the space to make it feel light and airy. “I wanted the salon to be a comforting place for my clients and fellow manicurist, Izzy, who works up to two days a week,” she explains. “I sought to use the floor space effectively so it would appear spacious, and as pink is my favourite colour, and one of the colours in my branding materials, I had to include it. Opulent gold accents finish the look.” Mollie Mae works on a full-time basis in the salon, from Tuesday to Saturday. “I offer lash extensions and lifts, dermaplaning, microneedling, mesotherapy and brow lamination alongside my nail services,” she shares. These nail services include repairs and gel polish enhancements with or without artistic additions, using products by Navy Professional and The GelBottle Inc. “I take pride in only offering the treatments I specialise in and that I know I complete to a high standard,” Mollie Mae continues. “The salon is the perfect place for my clients to relax, and they are welcomed by a wall of flowers. These were installed by a local business, The Rainflorist, and complement the signage for the salon perfectly. The space is better than I ever imagined, and I still can’t believe it’s mine.” /beautybymolliemae

@beautybymolliemae

Do you want to be featured on this page? Scan here to submit your salon or setup

Nail Creations

Location: Alford, Lincolnshire

The Nail Creations business was established in 2007 above a hair salon in Market Harborough, Leicestershire by Dannii Webster. The nail stylist relocated to Lincolnshire in 2020 to be closer to her family, and moved the business to a room in her new home. “I offer a range of of services, including L&P acrylic and gel enhancements, nail art, manicures and pedicures, spray tanning, ear piercing and pamper parties,” Dannii explains. “I love using Kirsty Meakin’s products for soft gel manicures, and own her full range. I turn to Glitter Planet for glitters and foils, NSI and CJP for acrylic powders, and The GelBottle Inc for hard gel nail extensions.” The nail space incorporates Dannii’s favourite colour, blush pink. “Choosing the décor was really easy for me – I simply went with what I like,” she smiles. “My style is minimal, so I don’t have too much on show, other than what I need, and have used bright white throughout for a clean, fresh look. “I love the whole setup of Nail Creations. Everything has a purpose,” Dannii continues. “If I had to choose my favourite part of the salon, it would be the custom-made pedicure station. It’s stunning and allows me to offer the luxury pedicure treatment all of my clients deserve.” /nailcreations07 74 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

@nail_creations_est_2007

NAILCOMPETITION

NAILYMPIA LONDON: THE RESULTS

The red carpet was rolled out for Nailympia’s return to London following a two-year hiatus, & saw nail pros attend from all over the world to compete for coveted titles

ALEX FOX REPORTS

ailympia London 2022, its 16th edition, took place on 2-3 October at Olympia Beauty and was, according to Croatian judge, Zrinka Vuksan, “Satisfaction guaranteed and pure pleasure.” Fellow judge, Anneke van de Sar of The Netherlands, adds, “I was so happy to be back on the floor and in the booth. Nothing beats live competitions!” And that was the general feeling across the floor, from nail desk to judging booth, as spirits were high and nail styling was at play. The live event attracted over 85 competitors representing 22 countries across eight categories. The competition also hosted an online version for five categories; its first hybrid event for those who couldn’t travel to London. Nailympia Competitions director, Alex Fox, states, “Getting back to live competitions

Nailympia ®

COMPETITION

LONDON 2022

this year has been a wonderful experience. We hosted Nailympia in Düsseldorf, Germany and Orlando, USA before landing in London. “The buzz was electric in the arena. Judges had arrived a day earlier and were desperate to get onto the floor, feel the vibe and see the competitors. This was a very uplifting event, hosted during challenging times for the global industry and beyond. However, ‘nails’ was on the menu and ‘nails’ did not disappoint. “There was superb camaraderie across the floor and intense, skillful nail work undertaken. It was a blessed experience for all and gave us the boost we were searching for. Who knew that nails could be such a tonic? To be around an ocean of nail-oriented people was just what I needed and I know many felt the same. I can’t wait to do this again in Mexico in December and get London bigger, better and more beautiful than ever before for 2023.”

Dafne Fernandez (Nailympia Mexico), Alex Fox (Nailympia Competitions & London) & Steffi Lo Re (Nailympia Germany).

THANK YOU TO THE JUDGES

London arena judges: Scarlett Senter, Sandy Cheung, Marian Newman BEM, Jacqueline O’Sullivan, Sean O’Sullivan, Anneke van de Sar, Liesbeth van Langelaan, Stefanie Lo Re, Dafne Fernandez, Najet Hamila-Strand, Krasimira Petrova, Madelene Wolf, Jennie Nippard, Helena Biggs, Morgan Haile, Antony Buckley, Danny Haile, Aliz Dora Toth, Max Braga, Zrinka Vuksan. Online judges: Alisha Rimando, Jan Arnold, Beth Livesay, Catherine Wong, Cheryl Thibault, Elaine Watson, Alina Roxana, Jai Harvey-Yin, Milena Mingozzi, Phoenix Van Dyke, Rebecca Manz, Sergie Korchagin, Valérie Ducharme, Vitaly Solomonoff, Viv Clement-Simmonds, Rodica Munteanu.

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NAILCOMPETITION

THE 4TH GLOBAL CUP THE 1ST EUROPEAN CUP

ART WINNER OF WINNERS

OVERALL INDIVIDUAL TOP SCORER

Olena Özman - Germany

TOP UK TECH

Division 1 - Ivaylo Guzgunov Division 2 - Annie Pham Division 3 - Andreea Simona Ignat

WINNER OF WINNERS

Division 1 - Ha Le - UK Division 2 - Alice Nali - UK Division 3 - Kayley Cairns - UK

TEAM TROPHY

Division 3 - Team Olena

“I’ve been competing at Nailympia since 2014. I’ve taken a long break from competitions, so when I found out that, after the lockdowns, we were able to go back on the floor, I was so excited to feel that adrenaline rush one more time. “Nailympia is a competition that I not only partake in to compete with amazing nail techs from across the globe, but it allows me to push my skills to be the best I can be.” Andreea Simona Ignat (UK) - Division 3 - UK Top Tech

Division 1 - Ivaylo Guzgunov - UK Division 2 - Annie Pham - UK Division 3 - Deborah Cocco - Italy

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NAILCOMPETITION

GEL POLISH MANICURE

Division 1

1st - Adriana Milosheva - Bulgaria 2nd - Taulanta Zdrava - UK 3rd - Huyen Vu - UK

Division 2

1st - Naomi Misu - Japan 2nd - Brenda Diaz - USA 3rd - Brigitta Fajt - UK

Division 3

1st - Deborah Cocco - Italy 2nd - Alessandra Pizzari - Italy 3rd - Evelin Nagy - Hungary

RUNWAY NAILS

Division 1

1st - Nicole Smith - UK 2nd - Ha Le - UK 3rd - Rita Chahine - Canada

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Division 2

1st - Anita Chahal - UK 2nd - Susan Strijbosch - The Netherlands 3rd - Laura Pote - UK

Division 3

1st - Katarzyna Kruszynska - Ireland 2nd - Rachel Burke - Ireland 3rd - Ivonne Voigt - Germany

NAILCOMPETITION

SALON NAILS

Division 1

1st - Ivaylo Guzgunov - UK 2nd - Taulanta Zdrava - UK 3rd - Mariana Costirco - Romania

Division 2

1st - Annie Pham - UK 2nd - Charisse Cassie - UK 3rd - Minna Ukskoski - Finland

Division 3

1st - Olena Özman - Germany 2nd - Deborah Cocco - Italy 3rd - Daria Proia - Italy

REALITY NAILS

Division 1

1st - Dung Fox Nguyen - USA 2nd - Nicole Smith - UK 3rd - Melanie Lueck - Germany

Division 2

1st - Brigitta Fajt - UK 2nd - Anita Chahal - UK 3rd - Alice Nali - UK

Division 3

1st - Katarzyna Kruszynska - Ireland 2nd - Giulia Candido - Italy 3rd - Petra Szabo - Hungary

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NAILCOMPETITION

THE JOY OF NAILS

Division 1

1st - Ha Le - UK 2nd - Ivaylo Guzgunov - UK 3rd - Mariana Costirco - Romania

Division 2

1st - Alice Nali - UK 2nd - Annie Pham - UK 3rd - Brenda Diaz - USA

Division 3

1st - Lucie Kovarikova - Czech Republic 2nd - Ivonne Voigt - Germany 3rd - Andreea Simona Ignat - UK

MIXED MEDIA

Division 1

1st - Dung Fox Nguyen - USA 2nd - Emma Laverton - UK 3rd - Vanessa Grossi - Italy

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Division 2

1st - Emese Balog - Hungary 2nd - Rita Bartolomeu - Portugal 3rd - Alice Nali - UK

Division 3

1st - Alessandra Pizzari - Italy 2nd - Ivonne Voigt - Germany 3rd - Iwona Freide - Poland

NAILCOMPETITION

FANTASY COMPLETE LOOK

Division 2

Division 3

1st - Kayley Cairns - UK 2nd - Monika Kupien - UK 3rd - Rachel Burke - Ireland

1st - Brenda Diaz - USA 2nd - Alice Nali - UK

FLAT ART

Division 1

1st - Giulia Mihalache - Italy 2nd - Emma Laverton - UK 3rd - Nicole Smith - UK

Division 2

1st - Martyna Olubinska - Poland 2nd - Charisse Cassie - UK 3rd - Emese Balog - Hungary

Division 3

1st - Ivonne Voigt - Germany 2nd - Alessandra Pizzari - Italy 3rd - Marlena Krawczykowska - Poland

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>> >>

NAILCOMPETITION

UV/LED GEL TIP & OVERLAY

Division 1

Division 2

1st - Ha Le - UK 2nd - Mariana Costirco - Romania 3rd - Ivaylo Guzgunov - UK

1st - Annie Pham - UK 2nd - Naomi Misu - Japan 3rd - Alice Nali - UK

Division 3

1st - Deborah Cocco - Italy 2nd - Olena Özman - Germany 3rd - Daria Proia - Italy

L&P ACRYLIC SCULPTURE

Division 1

1st - Ivaylo Guzgunov - UK 2nd - Ha Le - UK 3rd - Mariana Costirco - Romania

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Division 2

1st - Annie Pham - UK 2nd - Alice Nali - UK 3rd - Minna Ukskoski - Finland

Division 3

1st - Olena Özman - Germany 2nd - Flemming Nordqvist - Denmark 3rd - Deborah Cocco - Italy

NAILCOMPETITION

PERFECT MATCH

Division 1

1st - Ivaylo Guzgunov - UK 2nd - Mariana Costirco - Romania 3rd - Ha Le - UK

Division 2

Division 3

1st - Alice Nali - UK 2nd - Brenda Diaz - USA 3rd - Annie Pham - UK

1st - Deborah Cocco - Italy 2nd - Olena Özman - Germany 3rd - Magdalena Mysliwiec - Poland

INVENT A NAIL SHAPE

Division 1

1st - Ivaylo Guzgunov - UK 2nd - Jo Pham - UK 3rd - Mariana Costirco - Romania

Division 2

1st - Charisse Cassie - UK 2nd - Anita Chahal - UK 3rd - Annie Pham - UK

Division 3

1st - Lucie Kovarikova - Czech Republic 2nd - Mino Vo - UK 3rd - Andreea Simona Ignat - UK

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NAILCOMPETITION

STILETTO NAILS

Division 1

1st - Ivaylo Guzgunov - UK 2nd - Ha Le - UK 3rd - Mariana Costirco - Romania

Division 2

1st - Annie Pham - UK 2nd - Charisse Cassie - UK 3rd - Brigitta Fajt - UK

Division 3

1st - Flemming Nordqvist - Denmark 2nd - Deborah Cocco - Italy 3rd - Lucie Kovarikova - Czech Republic

“I participated for the first time at Nailympia London in 2017, winning five first place medals and thee Winner of Winners title in Division 2. That day was one of the best days of my life, and I promised myself that one day I would win Winner of Winners in Division 3 by beating the best competitors in the world. That day was 3 October 2022; a date that I will tattoo on my skin because it demonstrates that with sacrifice and determination, you can achieve anything you crave. Thank you Nailympia for giving me these indescribable emotions!” Deborah Cocco (Italy) – Division 3 – Winner of Winners

“I used to dream of being ‘good enough’ for Nailympia, the most prestigious nail competition in the world, and it took me years to build up enough courage to give it a go. I used to come to see the artwork and I was in awe. “Art Winner of Winners Division 3 is a title I never dreamed I would achieve. Division 3 always seemed so far away, yet here I am, and I can’t actually believe I made it. I’m one of ‘them’! I’m just so happy and I thank Nailympia (Alex and your team) for making such a thorough, fair and aspirational competition. This is the highlight of my career!” Kayley Cairns (UK) – Division 3 – Art Winner of Winners

KEY DATES

Nailympia Mexico 2nd edition hosted by Expo Reforma, 3-4 December 2022 @nailympia_mexico Nailympia Germany 2nd edition hosted by Beauty Düsseldorf, 31 March - 2 April 2023 @nailympia.germany Nailympia London 17th edition hosted by Olympia Beauty, 1-2 October 2023 @nailympiacompetitions For more information about competing and to view the categories, visit www.nailympia.com 84 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Thank you to our amazing sponsors WHO CONTINUE TO SUPPORT OUR INDUSTRY

Nailympia Competitions in association with

Nails by @kirstymeakin - UK

Find out more

nailympia.com

BUSINESSMATTERS

CANCEL Nail pros share how they manage client cancellations so you can ensure a correct, professional response

Navigating cancellation policies can be difficult, from knowing the correct wording to use in your response, to dealing with unavoidable circumstances. Having a cancellation policy in place is essential for any nail and beauty business, as no-shows and last-minute cancellations are costly. It’s important to protect yourself and your business, but it can be tricky to know exactly how to do so – and to have the confidence to stand by your policy. Here, fellow pros share their experiences with cancellations to help you enforce policies professionally...

culture Megan Kelly

“My cancellation policy is the only financial security that I have in place for my business,” reveals Megan Kelly, The GelBottle Inc brand ambassador. “It sets a standard of professionalism and makes it clear that nails is a business, not a hobby. If an entire week’s worth of clients cancelled, without my cancellation policy I’d have no income for that week.”

Booking fees & deposits Although many techs use the wording interchangeably, there is a difference between the term ‘booking fee’ and ‘deposit’ that techs need to be aware of when creating their cancellation policies. Marian Newman, BEM, breaks down the difference in a Nail Knowledge blog post at www.nailknowledge.org, explaining that booking fees are non-refundable, whereas deposits are legally refundable. Legally, you must refund a deposit if asked to by a client, and your business could face legal ramifications if this request is denied. Use the term ‘booking fee’ to protect yourself from this.

Emily Nunes de Souza

“The nature of our industry means that often, we have informal relationships with clients,” shares Emily Nunes de Souza of Whitehall Nail Company, Lincoln. “The relationship can feel more like a friendship and lines can be blurred. Having a clear cancellation policy that you can refer to can help with the uncomfortable conversation. A fair cancellation policy indicates to your clients that you have self-respect and value your own time and skill.”

Giorgia Cappella

“I have a cancellation policy in place at my salon because it’s important that clients respect my time, as we respect theirs,” shares Vicki Watson, INK London educator. “If I couldn’t make it into work, it would be unacceptable to not inform my client. It works both ways, and a quick message isn’t too much to ask.” Vicki Watson

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“I believe that all nail techs should take a 50% booking fee to protect against cancellations. Not all customers are willing to pay cancellation fees, so having a booking fee protects the tech,” says Giorgia Cappella, The GelBottle Inc brand ambassador & educator. “Chasing and retrieving a cancellation fee can be extremely difficult, so enforcing his prevents awkwardness.”

BUSINESSMATTERS

Pricing Monika Mayer

Client responses

“It’s difficult to know what to charge as your cancellation fee. At first, I only had a £10 cancellation fee, but I would lose a significant amount of my daily earnings if someone was to cancel last minute,” Monika Mayer, a Glasgow-based natural nail manicurist, shares. “I need enough notice to be able to fill that space. It’s not ideal for myself or the client – I know that life happens, but I need to protect my income.” “I take a £20 booking fee to secure an appointment, which acts as insurance,” reveals Wilmslow-based tech, Emily Hughes of Gel By Emily. “I find that it’s easier for me to take a booking fee upfront instead of taking a portion of the treatment fee.”

Emily Hughes

Tech policies: A closer look

“Most of my clients are now regulars, so they fully understand that this is my full-time job and my sole income,” shares awardwinning tech, Lily Lily Snape Snape of home salon, Beauty Bungalow in Preston. “This is my only wage, so if clients don’t show up to their appointment or they cancel last minute, I don’t get paid.” “Negative reactions are not always easy to deal with,” Halo VIP, Jade Miller, acknowledges. “I explain why I have a cancellation policy, and that I Jade Miller am self-employed. In order to protect my business, I have to be firm, and I detail to the client the ways they can pay.” Are there circumstances where I shouldn’t enforce my cancellation policy? “There are some situations where I believe we should be understanding,” says Giorgia Cappella. “Although we’ll be losing out on time and money, sometimes personal situations are unavoidable. It is at the nail tech’s discretion whether or not they enforce a cancellation policy, but nail techs must be careful that clients do not take advantage. “Any client that wants to be your client and has respect for your service, will likely be understanding that they need to pay any fees required and abide by your policies. Enforce the policies that benefit you and your business, and the right clients will find their way to you.”

Emily Nunes de Souza’s cancellation policy, which entails what clients should do if they need to cancel, and what to expect if this happens with less than 24 hours notice.

Emily Hughes shares her cancellation policy, setting out her required notice period and the percentage of the treatment cost she requires if this isn’t honoured.

“At Niche Hair & Beauty, we display the cancellation policy near the reception area and feature it on our social media platforms,” explains Jade Miller, salon owner & Halo VIP. “A copy of the policy is also sent out when appointments are made online. Ensure you clearly state the cancellation period and charges involved, and that any cancellation fees need to be paid before future appointments can be booked.”

Using an online booking system can be a beneficial way to ensure that no-shows or last-minute cancellations will be paid for automatically, without having to engage in debate or conversation with the client.

Emily Nunes de Souza reveals that she will always enforce her policy, regardless of the situation. “Leniency is a dangerous precedent to set,” she warns. “When you have a policy, stick to it. Big corporations charge you anyway regardless of the situation. If you don’t value your time, how can you expect your clients to?” “Understanding that life gets in the way sometimes is important. As a mother of two children, I can appreciate that things out of our control do happen,” Vicki Watson explains. “More often than not, when my customer offers to pay, I know their reason is genuine. We are all human at the end of the day and not everything goes to plan.”

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Chair – Marian Newman BEM

Director of finance & legal affairs – Denise Spragg

Deputy chair – Liza Smith

Director of communications – Clare Woodcock

THE FORCE

OF THE FEDS The FNP’s esteemed competition director, JACQUI O’SULLIVAN, shares her thoughts on trade shows & industry competitions

THE IMPORTANCE OF NAIL COMPETITIONS

About Jacqui O’Sullivan Jacqui is a Scratch Stars Award winner for Services to the Nail Industry and has vast experience delivering firstclass training and assessments in in nail technology, customer care, nail art and procedures within high pressure settings. Jacqui holds a BA(Hons) degree in Education and is involved in judging numerous national and international nail competitions, including Nailympia and WorldSkills, the biggest vocational education and skills excellence event in the world. She has over 25 years’ experience in the nail industry and has worked with a number of awarding bodies within the further education sector. Jacqui has also worked with a number of industry brands during her career and helped develop private training courses and products. She and partner, Sean, work as competition directors for the FNP.

competition is a complex concept that comprises several fundamental values. These values are not just integral to nails, but relevant in everyday life. Competition – whether between people, businesses or organisations – should demonstrate inclusion, friendship, equality and respect. Integrity, tolerance, care and excellence are the foundations on which competitions should be based. I have worked with many different competition organisers for a number of years, including the FNP, Professional Beauty, WorldSkills UK, The Guild and Nailympia. I have always enjoyed working relationships with judges, directors, learners and competitors at all levels and have never heard anyone disrespect another competitor or competition. I have the utmost admiration for anyone who takes part in any skills competition (whether live, online or a mixture of both), and for those who organise and judge them. Nail skills competitions are a great way to help you, as a nail technician, to stretch your skills. Other benefits can include collaboration, support, coaching and mentoring, which may not necessarily be included in the traditional learning environment or within your day-to-day salon or mobile work. I believe that competing is an important part of life. It allows you to educate www.the-fnp.com

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/TheFNPUK

@the_fnp_

yourself in different areas, fine-tune techniques through practice, try out new ideas and develop your knowledge and skills. You may start to look at peers and industry icons and work to improve your level of skill. By taking part in a competition, you will begin with several ideas and then decide on the best one for your final design. This may allow you to explore other areas of the nail industry and help develop your existing knowledge. Our industry has been devastated by Covid-19 and many businesses and livelihoods have been affected. Online learning and competitions were a welcome focus during lockdowns. Now, we are entering a new phase of our industry and learning, and trade shows and competitions have changed. I would like to support our industry and help where I can. I think we should respect each other and help our industry grow again. Trade shows may never go back to the ‘good old days’ where you took an empty suitcase and filled it with VAT-free show bargains, but we can still attend a show and competition to benefit from networking and witness new techniques. At Olympia Beauty and Professional Beauty North, there were a number of nail brands with some very talented techs demoing – and some insightful speakers on the live stages. I met lots of new people and reconnected with many more. We are entering a new era in our industry and I believe it is a time for us to work together to help our industry thrive. @the_fnp_

remove?

NAILTECHNIQUES

Should you

It’s a common topic of debate: should you remove nail enhancements applied by another tech? CALLIE ILEY chats to pros who share their thoughts on removal…

Pros in favour

Rebecca Foster of Nails By Bec Mass, Westhoughton “I used to be unsure about whether to offer a service removing product applied by another tech, however after hearing from people who struggled to remove their nail enhancements properly, resulting in damage to the nail plate and broken nails, I decided to offer it as a service. Often, if a client has been having enhancements such as builder gel applied, their goal has been to improve the health or length of their nails. So, it saddened me to think they would have to start their journey all over again because they didn’t remove the enhancements properly or picked them off. “When any new client books an appointment with me, I get in contact to discuss whether they require enhancement removal. I ask if they know what product and brand has been used on their nails, so I can prepare for the appointment. “At their appointment, I inspect the condition of their nails before, during and after removal, while making the client aware of what I’m doing and seeing. Educating your client on nail anatomy and the service itself will aid their understanding of proper care and enhance their experience at the salon.”

Kayley Cairns, awardwinning nail artist & HD Nail Artist Academy co-head educator, Billericay “I remove work applied by someone else. There is likely a good reason for a client not returning to the tech that applied the product, so offering removal means that I can gain a new client and provide them with a safe, positive removal experience. If a client cannot find a tech to remove product safely, then they will likely try themselves and almost certainly cause damage to the nails. I am confident in both soak-off and file-off removal practices, so will be able to take off any product on a client’s nails.” 90 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Laura Stevenson, educator & owner of LuLu’s Nail and Beauty Salon, West Lothian “I would rather remove product and then reapply the brand I use, because I don’t infill or recommend infilling another nail tech’s work. When I am asked to do this, I explain to the client that unfortunately we cannot guarantee any adhesion between old and new products as we don’t know what has been applied originally, and that it’s not recommended to mix systems. “If you do not offer to remove another tech’s work, you run the risk of the client coming to their appointment with nails that are unable to have product applied due to being sore and damaged, and that can lead to an upset and disgruntled client. If they then go to a tech who isn’t trained properly or is lacking in experience, they could apply product onto damaged nails, which can potentially cause further issues for the client. “The drawback to removing other tech’s work is that you may not know what you are removing. The client doesn’t always know if they have L&P acrylic, gel or builder gel on their nails, or the brand used. They may describe to you what they think it is, but until you see it, you won’t know. This can lead to appointment times running over as every removal takes a different amount of time. I charge extra for removal due to the possibility of it being a lengthy process.”

Victoria Lys Hunter, educator & owner of Victorious Nail Styles, Ontario “Refusal to remove may result in the client improperly removing enhancements themselves or can lead to them going to a non-standard salon for improper removal. Both of these situations could leave them with damaged nails. Removing work applied by others can help build a strong, loyal client base. It means you don’t turn a client away and potentially lose them, and they don’t show up with ruined nail plates because they picked their enhancements off at home. If you remove another tech’s work and see an infection, you should immediately refer them to their GP and not continue with the service. While training can prepare us to recognise some nail conditions, we aren’t doctors. It’s out of our scope of practice to diagnose and treat conditions. It’s a rare occurrence so I don’t see it often, but it’s not ideal when I do see it, as I have to cease treatment.” Victoria shows thick product that took three hours to remove.

It depends

NAILTECHNIQUES

Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System Gellux expert & owner of Sketched By J-A Nails, Aylesford

“I don’t remove work applied by another tech unless I know where the client visited and the exact product that was applied. I prefer seeing the nails free of product to allow me to assess the state of the natural nails. Removing another tech’s work can give the opportunity to explain your technique in depth to the client and allows you to educate them about what to look for when they choose a nail pro. Never talk negatively about the previous salon’s application, but instead explain why you believe some things may need rectifying.”

Pros against Jodie Evans of Nails By Jodie, Derby “I choose not to remove any nail product I have not applied, as I don’t know what’s been used on the nails, how it’s been applied and how long it will take to remove. I had an issue very early on in my nail career where I did agree to remove enhancements that were not applied by myself, and the product ended up taking nearly two hours to soak off. “I like to be able to see the health and condition of a new client’s natural nails, as lots of issues can be disguised when you can’t see what’s underneath old L&P acrylic or gel. It allows me to fill my diary with confidence, knowing how much time it will take to remove my own work, and therefore I don’t end up running behind. It also means that there won’t be any nasty surprises hiding underneath existing product. I used to worry that it would stop me gaining new clients if I refused to remove work that wasn’t my own, however I’ve actually found that most people understand this and quite often expect it to be the case.”

Charlotte Cliff, TGB brand ambassador & owner of Chars Gel Nails, Bristol “I personally prefer not to remove another tech’s work so that I can fully analyse the nail plate before any product is applied. It can also be tricky to remove another tech’s work if you are unsure about the products used.”

Jemma removing her own work from a client’s nails.

Jemma Nicole Higgins of Jazzed By Jemma, Wigan “I’ve been doing nails since 2017, and I decided in 2019 to stop removing work applied by other techs. I’ve learned the hard way over the years that this kind of removal can be difficult and time-consuming, as you’re not often aware of what products that tech has used. The product used may take anything from 30 minutes to multiple hours to remove, meaning you don’t know what time slot to book for the appointment. In these instances, I would often run over into my next client’s appointment, which would cause a knock-on effect for the rest of the day, and isn’t fair on me or my clients. “I understand that choosing to not remove another tech’s work may not please everyone, but it has had its advantages. I know exactly what products are being used on my client’s nails, so if there were to be any issues, I can figure out why and exactly how to deal with them. It also means I can book the right time slot, as I know roughly how long my products take to remove. “Explaining to a new or returning client that I refuse to remove another tech’s work can be stressful and worrying, as I hate letting anybody down and I try to help where I can. I explain to my clients the risks taken in this type of removal and advise my clients to return to the previous nail tech to get the work removed, after which I am more than happy to book the client in for a fresh set of nails.”

Michaela Phillips, educator & owner of Gelalicious, Medway “It’s important to check whether your insurance company covers any issues associated with removing another tech’s work. I politely decline to remove such work and explain to my client the reasons behind this, and offer a step-by-step guide to safe removal at home. I work with the client to educate them. This gains customer loyalty and trust, which in turn builds my relationship with them. “Educating clients to soak off correctly for a safe removal is better than them picking or biting enhancements, or if they guess what they’re supposed to be doing without checking. An uneducated client is likely to cause more damage to their natural nail. The downside to this is that a client may choose to go elsewhere.”

Charlotte Cliff removing her own work.

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BUSINESSMATTERS

ACCOUNTING THERESA CIENTANNI, founder & business development director at Soldi Partners Ltd, reveals answers to your pressing accounting questions

ABOUT SOLDI PARTNERS LTD Soldi Partners Ltd was founded by Theresa Cientanni to support selfemployed traders, as well as small and medium-sized businesses. She has partnered with expert accounting professionals to offer specialist advice on personal and business tax, account preparation, tax planning, bookkeeping and VAT. Theresa, who boasts experience in the nail sector, has been working with sole traders and small business owners for over 10 years and seeks to take the complications away from business management to aid growth.

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Is it expensive to hire an accountant?

Engaging an accountant is an expense to the company, but the right accountant can be a business resource – and may save you money in the long term through strategic planning and business support. You should expect more from your accountant than just an annual visit to prepare the accounts and tax returns. Your accountant should advise you throughout the year about government initiatives or changes in legislation. They should also review your financial position about nine months into the financial year to project potential tax implications and plan strategies to reduce tax. Accountants work for you – not HMRC – and should be seen as a business partner offering support.

Q “An accountant or bookkeeper can ensure that you are claiming for every expense that you can and that you remain compliant with legislation.”

Q&As

I need another therapist in my salon. Is it better to take on someone as self-employed, or employ them myself?

Ultimately, this is a trade-off between cost and control. Employing a member of staff allows you to dictate the pattern and nature of work to be done. However, you’ll have responsibilities such as paying National Insurance and pension contributions, deciding on sickness, maternity and holiday procedures, and ensuring you are being a responsible employer. A selfemployed worker will hold more control of these aspects but will be easier to let go of should financial hardships arise.

I have been doing beauty treatments as a side hustle but my client base is growing and I want to do things properly. How do I start?

Once you begin to earn over £12k a year, you will have tax obligations, so it’s a good

idea to have your business set up properly. Most reputable accountants will give you an hour of their time free of charge and obligation to discuss next steps, which are likely to include registering with HMRC, organising a business bank account and discussing finances.

What is Making Tax Digital and how will it affect me?

Making Tax Digital (MTD) is an HMRC initiative to gradually ensure that tax returns (VAT, Self Assessment, Corporation Tax) are submitted via a computerised system in order to remove any paper-based returns. All VAT registered entities should already be using approved software to maintain their records digitally and submit returns online. Self-employed people or landlords (with rental income >£10k pa) will be required to submit digital returns on a quarterly basis with effect from April 2024. Companies are scheduled to be brought into the MTD regime in 2026.

I’ve been doing my own bookkeeping and it seems to be going well, but at what point should I consider hiring an accountant?

As a business grows, the owner may find less time to concentrate on maintaining records that are compliant with HMRC guidelines. An accountant or bookkeeper can ensure that you are claiming for every expense that you can and that you remain compliant with legislation. They will also give you back the time to concentrate on the business, and lessen the admin load. www.soldipartners.co.uk /soldipartnersuk @soldi_accountant

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As the dark nights draw in, there’s nothing we love more than to get cosy on the sofa with a film and hot chocolate. Check out some movie-inspired designs to get you in the mood for snuggling up…

OOH LA LA!

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Hollywood star, Dove Cameron, rocked the Paris Fashion Week front row sporting The GelBottle Inc’s lilac Boutique shade from the autumn 2022 House Of TGB collection, applied by brand ambassador, @imarninails.

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CHLOE RANDALL uncovers the hottest nail topics & tales across the ‘net, TV & social media & gets the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves

96 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

LIGHT IT UP! Following the launch of his nail polish line, UN/DN Laqr, Machine Gun Kelly has been mixing up his nail looks and has shown off checkered nail art featuring light-up technology, courtesy of Brittney Boyce (@nails_of_la). In a video shared on Boyce’s Instagram feed, it appears that each nail features a tiny LED light making quadrants of the checkerboard design cycle through various colours, including black, green, and pink. Scan here to see the lights in action

American rapper, Megan Thee Stallion, embraced Halloween by showcasing a number of spooktacular designs on Instagram. Her nail technician, Coca Michelle (@cocamichelle), hand-painted both a brain style and spider look in the run-up to the event.

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CELEB MANI SPOT!

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Celebrity nail artist, Jenni Draper, tended to the nails of actress, Ellie Bamber, and created a molten metal look for her appearance at the Soho House Awards. Jenni prepped the nails with PersoNAILity tools and used Artistic Nail Design’s Correction Gel and Holographic Silver Chrome Pen.

SHE’S THE MAN-ICURIST

American actress, Amanda Bynes, best known for starring in TV series, All That and film, She’s The Man, announced on her Instagram Story last month: “In cosmetology college to become a manicurist!” The 36-year-old gave followers a peek at the salon space and zoomed in on nail enhancements.

CHAN DOES CHROME

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Don’t Worry Darlin’ actress, Gemma Chan, was given a chrome nail makeover by session stylist, Michelle Class. Bio Sculpture Gel products were used with the Nails Luxe Chrome Palette to achieve the look, which was for a Louis Vuitton event with British Vogue.

FAITH IN TGB

London-based manicurist, Imarni (@imarninails) used The GelBottle Inc’s Teddy BIABTM and Jet Black to create an abstract nail look for singer, Paloma Faith.

The GelBottle Inc BIAB™ in Teddy £16.99 + VAT and The GelBottle Inc in Jet Black £14.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

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Lava Look

Rapper, Saweetie, took to Twitter to showcase multicoloured lava lamp nails. Maximising the use of length, manicurist Temeka Jackson created a coffinshaped look for the star and used The GelBottle Inc shades, including Cosmopolitan, Bluefin and Californian.

Actor, Seth Rogen, has added a ‘gloopy’ ashtray to his Houseplant brand and he showed off a 3D nail look and jumper to match on an Instagram reel. The blue and orange nail style was created by nail artist, Mei Kawajiri (@nailsbymei), and is one of a series of nail styles created to complement various ashtrays. Scan here to watch the reel. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 97

NAILDESIGNS

@onenailtorulethemall adds Mickey magic to a pink ombré, using a dotting tool and detailer brushes with shades of black and white.

@realhotgurlnails creates a fun nail design for Mickey’s birthday is celebrated by a client heading to Disneyland, opting for @foreverbella.studio with this striking sketch-effect a mosaic Mickey look with bright colours. nail creation; a nod to the original animations.

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Celebrate Mickey Mouse’s 94th birthday with CHLOE RANDALL’S round-up of themed nail designs…

@nails_by_boba funks up a French manicure by adding a subtle Mickey Mouse shape to the ring fingernails.

Disney and Pride intertwine courtesy of @home_of_deva, who paints a bold and striking design on each nail.

What happens when you cross a baby boomer style with Mickey Mouse? This fun nail look by @angie.nailed.it!

Put a Disney twist on Christmas nail looks with Mickey shapes in festive red, green and gold shades, as shown by @sierrasnails_.

Mickey and Minnie meet minimalism in this chic nude mani by @szandi_koromkucko, featuring black hand-painted details.

@nataschasnailart embraces the magic of Disney by adding sparkle to this nude and white nail design paying homage to Mickey.

To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 98 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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