Scratch Magazine October 2021 by scratchmagazine

AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT Distributed exclusively in the UK and Ireland with Love and Respect

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Eighteen years of... ®

Issue 222 Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Emma Hobday emma.hobday@scratchmagazine.co.uk Editorial assistant Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jess.wilkie@scratchmagazine.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Co-founder Alex Fox Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

T: +44 (0) 1959 547 000 ISSN 2635-0327 Contributors Nails By Annabel, Peter Borg, NHBF, Denise Ferguson, Chan Vermont, Dave Heffernan, James Divine, Ria-Jaine Lincoln

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Images courtesy of CND™/Sweet Squared Shades shown are Verbena Velvet, Books & Beaujolais, Candlelight, Soft Flame, Wooded Bliss & Wrapped In Linen from the CND Shellac™ Wild Romantics collection. Available via www.sweetsquared.com

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.olympiabeauty.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2021 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

COVER CREDITS Image courtesy of Nails By Annabel/Glitterbels www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk Managing director & nail stylist: Annabel Maginnis Model: Kiara Price (@kiarapricex) Photographer: Mihaela Samsodan Digital & social media marketer: Ebony Shepherd Brand marketer: Georgia Walker

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Contents OCTOBER 2021

FEATURES 22 Bel Of The Ball

Recreate this month’s stunning cover nails with Glitterbels & check out behind-the-scenes snaps from the photo shoot

26 Shows Of Support

Explore the industry’s initiatives to support Breast Cancer Awareness & find out how to get involved

38 L&P: The Ultimate Q&A

Industry experts respond to your pressing questions about the L&P acrylic system to support your styling needs

46 Learning From Liza Smith

Salon veteran & Scratch Stars Services to the Nail Industry winner, Liza Smith, unveils her latest business venture

58 84

52 Spellbinding Styling

Create boo-tiful nail designs & attention-grabbing window displays with our roundup of fang-tastic Halloween inspo

58 From Latvia… With Love

Check out Kinetics; the nail brand with an 18-year history & focus on formulation, design & results

62 The Great Scratch Shoot Out: Entries Revealed!

Explore the striking & super creative submissions to Scratch’s annual photographic nail competition

72 Welcome One & All

Scratch explores transgender & drag beauty in the nail sphere & how to ensure an inclusive environment

84 How To Create An Insta-worthy Nail Space

Delve into design tips & interior ideas to create a nail space that your clients will be excited to post on Instagram…

92 Destiny In Your Hands

Do you or your clients wonder about the meanings behind the lines on your hands? A palm reader serves up insight…

REGULARS

10 18 20 32 34 48 56 60 68 70 78 80 82 90 94 96 98 100 104 106

Nail Nation The Hot List The Scratch Scoop Marketing Matters The Force Of The Feds Nailscopes Getting Down To Business Expert Advice Brand Watch Trend Spot Business Matters The Clawgasmic Effect Health Focus Mindful Matters Product Spotlight Beauty In Numbers Industry Initiative Scratch Stats Nail Clippings Fingernails In Focus

We make the chemistry, you make it

Beautiful! All NSI products are developed and manufactured by our own chemists in our own facility in the USA.

Thoroughly tested products with SDS sheets available at any time. NSI products are never tested on animals and never will be. Supplying UK nail professionals since 1992. Providing Excellence in Education at every stage of your career.

Learn more about NSI at nsinails.co.uk or freephone

Share your creations #nsinails #nsiuk

@nsiukltd

0800 881 8469

@nsiuk

Head oﬃce: NSI (UK) Ltd Unit 4 James Nasmyth Way Eccles Manchester M30 0SF e: salesinfo@nsinails.co.uk t: 01617882860 f: 01617882861

Nail NATION By Team Scratch

NAF! creates clarity between pro & consumer with rebrand The NAF! brand, founded by innovative entrepreneur and salon owner, Tammy Koslowski, has evolved its NAF! Stuff range of products. The professional range has rebranded from NAF! Stuff PRO to NAF! PRO, while NAF! Stuff will focus on delivering products for consumers and clients. The launch of the dedicated @nafprofessionals Instagram profile delivers insightful and informative content for PRO retailers while the @nafstuff account will switch to a consumer-only focus. www.nafprofessionals.com / www.nafstuff.com

REVEALED: The European cities best for beauty lovers Medical group, Longevita, has ranked European cities based on the average rating for beauty services and the number of services delivered per person. In first place with a score of 9.65/10 is Düsseldorf, Germany. This city in the west of the country boasts 48 hairdressers per 100,000 people. Tied for second place are Paris, France and Zaragoza, Spain. While Zaragoza has higher average ratings for waxing, nails, and hair, Paris has more hairdressers and beauty venues. Third place is a tie between Helsinki and Berlin, both with a score of 9.38. Helsinki has the highest number of both hairdressers (76) and beauty shops (34). Longevita’s worst polled place for hair and beauty appointment seekers is Bristol, UK, with only four hairdressers per 100,000 people. Other UK cities include Nottingham in 14th place, London ranked 23rd and Birmingham ranked 39th. www.longevitahairtransplant.com 10 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

BEAUTY INDUSTRY ACKNOWLEDGED, PRAISED & ENJOYED AT BRITISH BEAUTY WEEK

Millie Kendall MBE & make-up artist, Mary Greenwell

In partnership with No7 and the British Beauty Council, British Beauty Week took place in London’s Covent Garden from 8 to 12 September. Opened by chancellor, Rishi Sunak, the event featured a line-up of events and seminars, and pop-up stalls from beauty brands showcasing their latest innovations. Speaking to an audience on the first day of the event, Sunak said: “Thank you for everything you have done to keep going over the last year. The beauty industry is the best of British business: you are creative, entrepreneurial and innovative – no wonder you are worth £30 billion to the UK economy. “If anyone ever doubted, the pandemic brought home that the services you all provide are essential services – something we recognised in government when we reopened beauty services much earlier than lots of other businesses. What you give people is something that is impossible to measure in all the spreadsheets that I see – confidence, self-esteem and a sense of wellbeing. That is no small feat and I applaud you for it.” Team Scratch attended a Friday morning discussion with Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, model and founder of Rose Inc., and Harper’s Bazaar UK’s acting beauty director, Evie Leatham, on the future of beauty. The afternoon presented an insightful panel – including Ruby Hammer MBE and Black Skin Directory founder Dija Ayodele – on inclusivity and the beauty industry. Millie Kendall MBE, chief executive British Beauty Council, comments: “This inspiring five-day showcase defines the trends re-shaping beauty today and delivers a playground of beauty, firmly focused on the future. This theme was incorporated throughout every aspect of the live event and encouraged consumers to discover, explore and play while allowing key industry figures to take the stage to think, discuss, debate and demonstrate the future of beauty.” www.britishbeautycouncil.com

Instagram.com/britishbeautyweek

business

news & views

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Nail NATION Facebook group serves to empower beauty pros & help beat burnout Beauty therapist, Zaara King, has vowed to help fellow pros avoid burnout and create a better balance between their work and personal lives with the launch of The Beauty Build group on Facebook. The group serves to create a community of women to support one another and share stories to support and inspire. “I know there are so many people out there juggling a number of roles, comparing themselves, getting stressed and needing balance in their lives, and I know how easy it is to burn out,” says Zaara. “Beauty professionals have such a demanding, people-pleasing role, especially in today’s society with added pressure from social media.” Zaara had searched in the past for help to find balance in her life, but failed to find specific support for the nail and beauty industry. Then when the pandemic hit, she found herself struggling with her mental health for the first time in her life. “I’ve always been a very positive person, but the uncertainty and the lack of routine really got to me,” she reveals. “It took a lot of determination to keep pushing forwards, so after coming out of lockdown, remaining fully booked and maintaining the confidence to make things work for me on my own terms, I decided it was the right time to launch The Beauty Build,” she comments. “Via the group, I offer guidance, support, Q&A’s, mindset growth, inner work and weekly live trainings which go into depth on topics relating to building a successful beauty business, keeping a balance and making things work for you. It offers the chance for people to share ideas, ask questions, gain feedback and confidence. It’s a no judgement zone and a place for people to feel empowered.” Join the group at www.facebook.com/groups/thebeautybuild

Podcast launches to inspire salon professionals Nail sector veteran and Scratch Stars Services to the Nail Industry winner 2017, Sue Davies, has launched the Inspiring Salon Professionals podcast. Just one of the resources available on her website, www.suedavies.org, the podcast supports career development, brand building and how to start a business – and features inspirational stories from experienced salon professionals and owners. Sue, who holds the title of deputy chair of The FNP comments: “The podcast will cover subjects from the beginning of a salon professional’s career to how to become an award-winning business owner – and everything in between.” Sue has qualifications in nails, beauty and holistic therapies and has been an educator and assessor. She has worked as a home/mobile worker and self employed salon worker and adds: “The podcast allows every therapist, nail tech and stylist to level up, build their career and reach for their dreams. “Each episode covers topical subjects within the salon industry and many are scheduled to feature interviews with salon owners, industry leaders and other professionals that can share their knowledge and experience on practical skills, business skills and creating a welcoming space for clients.” The Inspiring Salon Professionals podcast is available on iTunes and at www.suedavies.org

KUPA INC. NAMES ANN CHANG AS DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION KUPA Inc., which has been providing nail professionals with e-files since 1984, has named industry veteran Ann Chang as its new director of education. In this role, she will be responsible for creating educational content for online and in-person platforms in addition to social media. Bilingual Chang also takes up the role of Vietnamese marketing developer and will work to increase brand awareness for KUPA within the Vietnamese community. She has been in the nail industry for 18 years, serving as a consultant for the likes of CND™ and OPI and as an educator for KUPA. “I am so excited to take on this position with KUPA,” Chang comments. “I have gained many skills from my previous experience as a nail artist and educator and I am looking forward to growing and thriving with the brand.” KUPA, an acronym of the names of founders Kito Ochi, Robert Upshaw and associates, carries over 13 e-file models; some with Bluetooth capability and customisable options. KUPA products are available in the UK via www.salon-services.com with products & training available via www.hazeldixonnailartistacademy.com www.kupainc.com

12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Launching October 2021

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Nail NATION 365,000 acrylic fingernails to adorn fountain in Times Square

Pink Glitterbels warehouse pops up in Stoke-on-Trent Popular nail technician, Annabel Maginnis, and her business partner and husband, Elliott, have opened a £2million pink warehouse in Tunstall, Stoke-on-Trent. The unit will house the duo’s nail brand Glitterbels, which boasts acrylic powders, gel polish, salon furniture, essentials and more. The rapid success of the brand – which saw it scoop the Scratch Stars Shooting Star Award 20/21 – has meant that the company outgrew its previous two warehouses and the duo wanted to bring the brand together in one space. “We were keen to invest in the area and we feel the warehouse brightens it up,” they comment. “We have purchased new machinery, which means that all products are now made and manufactured in-house. The warehouse now gives us the space and capacity to offer next day delivery worldwide for orders made before 5pm.” www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk

Nailympia competition moves online for 2nd edition Following the postponement of the inperson Nailympia London competition due to take place this month, the organisers have moved the international nail competition online for a second edition. The first edition was a huge success, and gave nailists from all corners of the globe the opportunity to compete across a number of categories – despite the constraints of the pandemic. Nailympia Online affords the opportunity to create nail styles at home, before they are judged virtually by an international panel of acclaimed industry judges. The categories, which span three skill divisions, include Mixed Media Art, Invent A Nail Shape and Joy of Nails. Registration for Nailympia Online (2nd edition) is open until 1 December 2021. Use code SCRATCH10 for a 10% discount on entry fees. For more information and to enter, visit www.nailympia.com Scan here to watch Scratch’s Q&A with Alex Fox, global director of Nailympia Competitions 14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Times Square Arts is presenting A Fountain for Survivors this month; an immersive public art installation featuring artificial nails by artist, Pamela Council. Building on a body of work the artist refers to as ‘Fountains for Black Joy,’ the installation is in honour of survivors. “When I say survivor, it’s not about overcoming trauma or resilience,” Pamela says. “In making the work, I have chosen not to define it. I leave it up to survivors themselves to claim that title.” Free and open to the public, the 18-foot-tall structure will act as a reflection on survival as New York begins to open from pandemic isolation. A protective covering encrusted in over 365,000 hand-placed acrylic fingernails from global artificial nail supplier, KISS, will house a fountain inside, flowing with a natural healing liquid. Designed to be a welcoming, warm, and enveloping space, visitors will enter the structure and encounter a range of sensory experiences, such as heat, sound, and scent. The maximalist installation will also consist of bright lights and bold eye-catching colours, as well as numerous glossy fingernails, and aims to offer a diversion from the constant hubbub of Times Square, providing visitors with a private moment for comfort and contemplation in the midst of the Square’s multi-sensory backdrop. www.pamelacouncil.com / www.kisseurope.uk

SAVE NAILS FROM SNAPPING WITH HANDY KEYSIE Do you panic about your clients snapping their nails when it comes to opening cans, parcels and keyrings? Retail the Keysie, a handy plastic multi-tool that features a thin nip to slice through packaging, remove staples and slide under ringpulls to open cans. Customisable with your salon logo or favourite pattern, the Keysie also doubles up as a shopping trolley token. Lightweight, it can be attached to a keychain to always be at hand when needed. Available via www.keysieco.com

NINE-YEAR-OLD BULLIED BEAUTYPRENEUR LAUNCHES NAIL LACQUER LINE

United Airlines reveals nail polish regulations for cabin crew United Airlines has unveiled appearance regulations for both male and female customer facing employees that allows for greater gender expression and style. Make-up and nail polish was originally forbidden for male employees, whereas the only restriction now is that employees must wear natural-looking make-up and un-chipped nail polish, meeting the professional standards of the airline. “As the face of United, our customer-facing teammates can provide an even better experience for our customers when they look and feel their best,” comments Kate Gebo, executive VP of the airline’s department of human resources & labour relations, in a statement shared with employees. Gebo continues, “We’re confident that these modernised and more gender-inclusive appearance standards will provide a more authentic representation of the people and cultures that make United the company it is today.”

American tween, Lola Marie Thomas, who was born with spina bifida, has launched her own nail polish line to increase awareness of her condition and ignite happiness following bullying incidents. These incidents saw Lola taken out of school and transferred to another one in the same county. She started seeing a therapist, who diagnosed Lola with PTSD, depression and anxiety. This therapy would be the beginning of Lola Marie Polish, as when her therapist asked her what makes her happy, Lola explained that it was nail styling. Lola Marie Polish features over 40 nail polish shades with empowering and positive names. Each bottle features a crown that symbolises Lola’s aim for all women to feel like they are royalty – and her desire to be ‘the princess of the nail industry’. Besides raising over $59,000 – enough to buy a wheelchair-accessible van – Lola’s business goals included donating 20% of her proceeds each month to the Casey Cares Foundation, a non-profit charity that helps critically ill children and their families. www.lolamariepolish.com

Make waves with decadent Mii nail colour collection Mii has expanded its nail colour collection with a sophisticated palette of browns, rich reds and navy hues. The Winter Banquet collection features six shades – from Midnight Feat to Velvet Gown – available in Colour Confidence Nail Polish and Statement Gel Polish. www.gerrardinternational.com

Create fanciful fingernails with A Picnic in France Magnetic Nail Design has revealed its six-piece autumn gel polish collection. It features classic shades with rich undertones that will invite clients to reminisce about their favourite holiday destinations. The shades are: • Champagne Yellow • Provence Pink • Rouge Red • Foulard Brown • Mont Blanc Blue • Normandy Green Available as a complete collection for £75 + VAT or individually for £14.80 + VAT via www.magneticnails.uk Champagne Yellow

Provence Pink

Rouge Red

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SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 15

We’re back!

THE UK’S FIRST BIG EVENT FOR BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS SINCE 2019!

Sun 3 & Mon 4 Oct 2021 at Olympia London

BRANDS BRANDS BRANDS Show offers, innovations, launches & Christmas releases for your business THE SALON & SPA OWNERS’ CLUB BRAND NEW & exclusive events, a prosecco bar & free teas & coffees GOING GREEN It’s all about sustainability, vegan ingredients & organic product lines COMPETITIONS The Lash Games & The National Massage Championship return EDUCATION & STAGES Stage talks, panel discussions & brand hosted events live at the show

#loveolympiabeauty THE BEST SELFIE AT THE SHOW EACH DAY WINS £250 TO SPEND ON A STAND OF YOUR CHOICE Find out more on our socials: @olympiabeautyuk

@olympiabeauty

OLYMPIABEAUTY.CO.UK

NEWPRODUCTS

Glitterbels Unbelievabel Gel £9.95 inc VAT www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk Fresh to the Glitterbels nail product portfolio is Unbelievabel; a file-off, highly pigmented and nowipe gel range. Ideal for creating strong, durable nail enhancements, 66 shades are available and two coats of each gel colour is recommended for full coverage – with no top coat required.

The Gel Bottle Inc Lady Luxe Collection £14.50 + VAT each www.thegelbottle.com These 10 sophisticated gel polish shades command attention, designed for the modern ‘it girl’ – Lady Luxe. Choose from the likes of Stiletto – an orange-toned red, Knightsbridge – a rich, timeless green, and Up All Night – a Champagne hue.

List THE HOT

Hive Solutions Cuticle Oil Drops £POA. Available via www.hiveofbeauty.co.uk & wholesalers nationwide. Add a fruity final twist to your manis and pedis with a choice of Blueberry, Passionfruit and Watermelon cuticle oils – and then retail to your client to continue their care at home. Vegan friendly, each is formulated with avocado oil and vitamin E to hydrate.

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand to your services

HD Pro Nail Systems Winter Warmers Acrylic Powder Collection from £4.99 + VAT www.hazeldixonnails.com Cosy up to the eight decadent acrylic colour powder shades in the HD Pro Winter Warmers collection, available in 10g and 25g sizes. Highly pigmented, the hues include rustic red Fire Pit, indulgent Hot Chocolate and chic Olive.

Magpie Glitter Celestial Collection £23.30 + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk Dazzle clients with Astra, Celeste, Moon, Stella and Eclipse – five super-sparkly glitters that are ideal for jazzing up designs and perfecting party nail looks. Burnish into an inhibition layer or mix with Magpie’s Give Me Strength Structure Gel for a shimmering enhancement.

18 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Salon System Gellux Without Limits Collection £11.95 + VAT each. Available via wholesalers nationwide. Launched in collaboration with Salon System expert and celebrity nail artist, Karen Louise, this collection features eight transitional gel polish hues – now with a colour filled cap. The range includes a mix of bold, powerful colours that serve to empower women and enhance confidence.

NEWPRODUCTS

Light Elegance Power Of Science ButterCream Collection £76.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com The Light Elegance brand has channelled its ‘great chemistry’ mantra into this six-piece ButterCream collection; embodying a commitment to chemistry while infusing a passion for colour. The hard gel shades apply like butter and include Positively Charged, an autumnal berry, and Polymer Pal, a creamy washed-out denim. Available individually for £15.45 + VAT each.

Mii Lavish Lip Crème in Risqué £8.25 + VAT/RRP £16.50 www.gerrardinternational.com This lightweight, hydrating lip crème combines fullcoverage colour with glamorous shine. Complementary lip liner shades are available and two other shades join Risqué in this seasonal launch: Forbidden – a pink nude, and Siren, a natural nude.

Kinetics Affection SolarGel Nail Polish Collection £86 inc VAT www.bellabooprobeauty.co.uk www.kineticsnails.co.uk This seasonal display features all eight shades in the Affection SolarGel range alongside two SolarGel top coats. The diverse range includes rich reds, a mustard and brown-toned hues to ignite happiness – and each is also available in the Shield Gel Polish formula.

Nailchemy Metallic Embossing Gel £6.99 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk Create textured, embossed nail effects with this highly pigmented, thick viscosity gel. Six metallic shades, including Gun Metal and Old Gold, join the likes of black, red and white in Nailchemy’s collection. The Embossing Gels have no inhibition layer and are ideal for creating filigree swirls.

Magnetic Nail Design Blush Gel Collection £15.90 + VAT each www.magneticnails.uk Find the perfect builder gel to suit your client’s skin tone in this 12-piece collection of self-levelling brush-on gels. Choose Girly, Sassy or Spoiled for cool tones, Attitude, Wannabe or Bitchy for medium tones, Dreamy, Cozy or Lovely for warm tones and Bossy, Classy or Fierce for dark tones. Available as a complete collection for £178.80 + VAT.

Artistic Colour Gloss Breakout Beauty Collection £12.95 + VAT each www.louellabelle.co.uk Created to embody the fearless energy of the Artistic colour maven, this collection features six shades – from subtle to smokey. Each shade is available in Colour Gloss Soak Off Gel Polish, Colour Revolution Reactive Nail Lacquer (£5.95 + VAT) and Artistic Perfect Dip (£12.95 + VAT).

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 19

p o o c s

SCRATCHSOCIAL

THE SCRATCH

Top (L-R): Helena Biggs, Chloe Randall, Emma Hobday Bottom (L-R): Jess Wilkie, Callie Illey

The Scratch team offers an insight into its antics & unveils events & products from the nail & beauty realms

out Out and ab

In the

MAIL...

We’ve received some lovely seasonal nail and beauty delights in recent weeks; from handbag essentials to autumnal shades. Take a peek at that what’s arrived in the post…

us Pro had a t N A F ! p a ss io n fr u it m a e t e s Th it h it le o il s, fr u it y w fe e li n g d n a il a n d c u t ic p e n a n d e sc e n t w is t y o il v ia le in a t a v a il a b d r o p p e r b o t t le c o m . 30ml io n a ls . fp r o fe ss www.na

S w ee t S q u a u tu m n n a re d ea se d u s in to a il st y li n g b y g if ti th e W il d ng R om co ll ec ti on a n ti cs n a il co lo u r in C N D V in y lu x™ . It fe a tu re s si x st y li so p h is ti ca sh a n d te W ra p p ed d h u es , fr om th e ta u p e In Li n en to ri ch & B ea u jo la is , a va il re d B oo k s a b le vi a w w w .s w ee ts q u a re d .c om .

Treatment try-out BEFORE To mark the launch AFTER of Salon System‘s dual lash & brow lift system, news & features writer Chloe Randall headed to a London venue to experience a brow lamination service with Salon System expert, Lisa Stone. Following a consultation, Lisa cleansed the brow area before applying the Salon System Lashlift Lift Lotion, which softens the hairs of the brow so they can then be brushed into the style of choice. Next, Salon System Lashlift Fix Lotion was used to fix the hairs into place for lamination and brows were tinted with a bespoke combination of RefectoCil shades. For more information about the products and treatment, visit www.salonsystem.com

PSST!

A film crew visited the Scratch office twice last month to record some content for a very cool but currently very secret project. All will be revealed in a future issue!

20 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Th e ed ito ria l te am ; He len a, Ch loe , Em m a an d Ca llie , ho tfo ot ed to Co ve nt Ga rd en fo r Br itis h Be au ty We ek , or ga nis ed by th e Br itis h Be au ty Co un cil . It wa s op en ed by ch an ce llo r Ris hi Su na k, wh o pr ais ed th e Bri tis h be au ty ind us try fo r its re sili en ce , ca llin g its m em be rs ‘cr ea tiv e, en tre pr en eu ria l an d inn ov at ive .’

seminars with The week saw stry on res in the indu influential figu usivity, cl in as cs such important topi d the unication an client comm ty. Team au be of e nc ie future and sc ts and uc od pr ed new Scratch explor ark in m a e ak m t to treatments se papped months and g in m co e th ndall e ures Milli Ke key industry fig CEO) il nc ou C auty MBE (British Be reenwell. G artist, Mary and make-up

What we’re wearing... Art editor, Jess Wilkie, visited Hazel of @nailcreationsbyhazel, West Sussex, for a gel polish overlay. She opted for the delicate hue of TGB’s Pixie.

Find us on stand G33!

BEL of the COVERSTORY

ball The Glitterbels brand makes its Scratch cover debut with a golden goddess & shares how to recreate her stunning nail style…

lamour and glitz is synonymous with the Glitterbels brand, so it’s only fitting that its cover debut shot features glorious golden features and sparkling nails appropriate for the autumn season. Founded by Annabel and Elliott Maginnis in October 2018, the brand scooped the Shooting Star accolade at the Scratch Stars Awards 20/21 for its enviable success and super-fast growth, and its products – and Annabel’s handiwork – now feature on this month’s cover. The striking shot features a model swathed in rustic tones with amber highlights, rendering an ethereal pose with enhanced L&P nails perfectly framing her face. The extravagant headpiece makes for a stunning addition to the image, perfectly complementing the chosen tones within the finished nails. Elliott & Annabel Maginnis “Anything worth doing is worth overdoing,” smiles Annabel. “Our vision was ‘autumn forest with a flare’ and the photo shoot was so much fun as the team, location and model, Kiara, were all great. We prepped a variety of settings using props from flowers and trees to complete the looks. Thankfully, the weather was on our side!”

The talented nail stylist chose fitting autumnal hues from her product range, including acrylic powders in Pumpkin, Caramel Nude and Rich Gold. “Glitterbels acrylic powders are super pigmented, smooth to apply and easy to control,” Annabel reveals. “I advise using them as a design powder rather than to add strength, and cap using Glitterbels Glass Slippers powder with Glitterbels Violet Monomer.” 22 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

COVERSTORY

STEP-BY-STEP

YOU WILL NEED: • Extreme Coffin Tips • Peacherbel Cover Powder • Violet Monomer • Glitterbels Acrylic Powders in Autumn Leaves, Caramel Nude, Orange Zest, Liquid Gold, Liquid Copper, Rich Gold, Chocoberry Crush, Sunkissed Orange, Pumpkin & Glass Slippers

Annabel reveals how to create this month’s autumnal cover feature nails using Glitterbels products… Step 1 Prep the nail using Glitterbels Prep Essentials. Prime and remove any excess oil from the nail plate. Push back the cuticle to create a clean base for application.

Step 2 Adhere Glitterbels Extreme Coffin Tips to the nail with Effortless Adhesion Glue. Step 3 Enhance the nail using Peacherbel Cover Powder and create a smile line. File to refine the shape.

Step 4 Apply wet beads of a variety of Glitterbels acrylic powder shades from the smile line to the tip of the nail. Create a marbled effect by moving the tip of the acrylic brush in a figure of eight. Choose deep browns and rustic oranges with a touch of sparkle. Step 5 Cap the nail using Glitterbels Glass Slippers clear acrylic powder. File to refine the shape. Step 6 Apply the Glitterbels No Wipe Top Coat and cure for 60 seconds. Apply cuticle oil to finish.

“Anything worth doing, is worth over doing.”

Check out more images from the photo shoot by following the brand on social media. www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk /Nailsbyannabelm & /GlitterbelsbyAnnabel @nails_by_annabel_m & @glitterbels

Glitterbels

COVER CREDITS Managing director & nail stylist: Annabel Maginnis Model: Kiara Price (@kiarapricex) Photographer: Mihaela Samsodan Digital & social media marketer: Ebony Shepherd Brand marketer: Georgia Walker

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 23

See our full range of products at glitterbels.com

TAKE A

Find us on stand F10!

BRAND NEW CHAIRS AVAILABLE NOW O

INDUSTRYINITIATIVES

Shows of

support BRIGHT HOPES FOR THE FUTURE

Future Dreams,, a charity dedicated to raising funds to support those touched by breast cancer, has opened Future Dreams House near Kings Cross, London. Future Dreams was founded by mother-daughter duo, Sylvie Henry and Danielle Leslie, who both sadly lost their lives to breast cancer within one year of each other. Their goal was to ensure that nobody should ever have to face the illness on their own. The charity has been supported since its fruition in 2008 by nail companies and brands including Louella Belle, Re:New Beauty, Gerrard International and Salon System. Fundraising efforts in recent years have been focused on creating the Future Dreams House, a breast cancer support centre. Opening this month, the centre will allow visitors to access practical support including image workshops, life coaching, financial and nutritional advice. What’s more, the centre serves as a non-medical environment in which people can form friendships and networks that will help them take on the disease from a place of solidarity and empowerment. Externally painted in the signature Future Dreams shade of pink, the house features a large kitchen, several seating areas, treatment rooms and versatile spaces for talks, classes and workshops. Furniture and interior accessories have been provided by Made.com, and the premises is a truly calming, peaceful and inviting space to support breast cancer sufferers and their loved ones. www.futuredreams.org.uk /futuredreamscharity @futuredreamscharity

CAN YOU HELP?

Future Dreams House – and fellow efforts by the Future Dreams team – require funding so they can continue to support those touched by breast cancer. Visit www.futuredreams.org.uk to donate or scan here

26 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

This Breast Cancer Awareness Month, HELENA BIGGS recognises the nail techs & businesses raising funds for breast cancer causes & conducting initiatives to support

Scratch’s managing editor, Helena Biggs, was invited to join a special group of attendees to visit Future Dreams House in the weeks before its opening date. The attendees: • Lisa Gerrard, MD, Gerrard International • Richard Lipsitz, director, Re:New Beauty • Claire Aggarwal, COO, Re:New Beauty • Samantha Landesberg, COO, Future Dreams • Spencer Leslie, Future Dreams ambassador & trustee • Isabel Surtees (@isabelmaynails) • Faye Dennis (@fayelouisedennis) • Lucy Sharman (@mrslucysharman) • Julia Diogo (@paintedbyjools_) Check out some of the snaps below…

INDUSTRYINITIATIVES

NAIL BREAST CANCER

Over 99% of breast cancer cases affect women. The female dominated nail industry can greatly assist in raising awareness of the disease, including how to check for it and by raising funds for charities that support, via the Nail Breast Cancer campaign. This campaign encourages nail professionals and their clients to donate £1 or more from the cost of their nail service to Future Dreams throughout October via www.futuredreams.org.uk/donate or a collection box in the salon. Consider going one step further by organising fundraising events in your salon – such as a raffle or bake-off – to help raise awareness and proceeds for the charity.

Nails shown by @marinadobyk.nails using L’Atelier Green nail lacquer in Mama Mia, £15.50 inc VAT www.lateliergreen.com

DON’T DRIVE ME MAD!

The minky taupe Artistic Colour Revolution shade ‘Don’t Drive Me Mad’ is a fond nod to Louella Belle founder and Future Dreams ambassador, Lisa Crook, who sadly lost her battle with breast cancer in December 2017. It was often her response when people would ask how she was feeling! Future Dreams will receive 90% of profits from the sale of this shade. Artistic Colour Revolution in Don’t Drive Me Mad £5.95 + VAT/RRP £11 www.louellabelle.co.uk

Glitterama is donating all profits from the sale of its Tiddies acrylic powder to Breast Cancer Awareness. Tiddies acrylic powder is available from £2.95 inc VAT via www.glitterama-nails.com

L’Atelier Green Paris is donating 15% of monies from all products sold in October to Breast Cancer Care and will be sharing stories from breast cancer survivors on its social platforms throughout October. A ribbon on the ring finger and various shades of pink highlight the cause. By @jvnglebeauty for Nail Breast Cancer.

Nails by Glitterama brand ambassador, @nailsbystaceyxoxo, to promote Breast Cancer Awareness.

Stiletto nails featuring the Breast Cancer Awareness ribbon and varying shades of the campaign’s signature pink hue; by Glitterama brand ambassador, @riyxnails.

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 27

INDUSTRYINITIATIVES Mii Statement Gel Polish £15.50 + VAT Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polish in Just A Smile (14ml) £6.75 + VAT/RRP £13.50 www.gerrardinternational.com

THE SPARKLE NIGHT WALK

Magpie Beauty has sponsored the Ashgate Hospice Sparkle Night Walk 2021; an event organised by the hospice close to Magpie Beauty HQ, North Derbyshire. The hospice holds a special place in the hearts of company owners, Sarah and Damien Shakespeare, and they sponsored the t-shirts and medals for the event on Saturday 25 September. www.magpiebeauty.co.uk www.ashgatehospicecare.org.uk

JUST A SMILE

Susan Gerrard, chairman of Mii Cosmetics’ parent company, Gerrard International, has chosen one of the brand’s most popular pink shades, Just A Smile, to support the efforts of Future Dreams. “A smile played an enormous part in Susan’s positive mindset as she went through her breast cancer journey,” comments a spokesperson from the brand. Twenty percent of each trade sale of Just A Smile – in Mii Colour Confidence Polish and Statement Gel Polish – will be donated to Future Dreams.

THE PINK PROGRAMME

RevitaLash Cosmetics is continuing its longstanding support of breast cancer awareness initiative with its annual Pink Programme. Established in 2006, RevitaLash launched with a lash conditioning serum, created for the founder’s wife, Gayle, as she fought breast cancer. For each RevitaLash Advanced and RevitaBrow Advanced purchased until 31 October, RevitaLash Cosmetics will donate £1.44 to breast cancer charities around the world, up to a maximum of £101,000. “We are proud of our continued commitment to not only support breast cancer charities, but also to the ongoing research and education surrounding this disease and the cause,” comments Lori Jacobus, RevitaLash Cosmetics president & global CMO. “As the backbone and guiding mission of our organisation, we are thrilled to expand our efforts and, together with our global partners, make an impact and a difference in hopes of helping those affected by and suffering from breast cancer.” The limited edition RevitaLash and RevitaBrow products are available via www.revitalash.co.uk

28 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Lady Showbiz Beauty has collaborated with the Pink Ribbon Foundation to launch a vegan-friendly nail polish in support of Breast Cancer Awareness Month, available via www.ladyshowbiz.com Magpie Beauty Ribbon Pink Nail Shapes £2.25 + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk

Tracie Giles London, which offers semi-permanent makeup, medical and correctional treatments (including areola tattooing), is offering clients who suffer with breast cancer 20% off these treatments, as well as brow treatments for chemotherapy clients. What’s more, 10% of the profits from the sale of the Tracie Giles Crème Rescue Serum is to be donated to breast cancer awareness causes. The Tracie Giles Crème Rescue Serum is available via www.cremerescue.co.uk www.traciegiles.co.uk

PAINT THE TINSELTOWN RED

CELEBRATION COLLECTION GELCOLOR • INFINITE SHINE • NAIL LACQUER

SHOP AT TRADE.OPIUK.COM

Boss by day, femme fatale by night - Lady Luxe is the centre of attention. Our new collection of 10 luxurious shades encapsulates the essence of this modern It Girl and her je ne sais quoi. Whether radiating a Copper Glow shopping in Knightsbridge or Staying Up All night in a Stiletto heel, it’s your client’s turn to live like Lady Luxe.

THEGELBOTTLE.COM

@ THE_GELBOTTLE_INC

MARKETINGMATTERS

Manage

& master

Scratch gathers hints & tips to help you manage your social media content effectively & ensure a healthy work-life balance After finishing your last appointment of the day, it’s understandable that you’d want to kick off your shoes, relax and unwind. However, social media runs 24/7, and as an effective tool for business, you may feel under pressure to post some of your nail snaps after working hours to hit the ‘peak time’ for follower engagement. You may also get the urge to answer client queries when you should be switching off. Despite feeling the need to manage your social media during any free time you have, it is imperative to get the necessary amount of rest to enjoy a healthy work-life balance and give your clients the best version of you.

CHECK IT

√ Determine ‘qu iet times’ and sti ck to them. Crea routine where, fo te a r example, afte r 6pm, you log your professiona out of l social media ac counts and don’t respond to clien ts. This applies on your days off, to o. √ Keep clients off your persona l so cial media platfo Try to keep relat rm s. ionships with cli ents on your prof pages to establi essional sh boundarie s, re ducing the ris sending work-re k of clients lated message s to your persona when you’re trying l page to unwind. √ Plan and sche dule! Use sche du ling tools to man social media co age your ntent in bulk ea ch week so it do interrupt your tim esn’t e off.

HANDY TOOLS

Get to grips with these handy tools to help you manage your social media…

TOP TIP!

Facebook Business Suite

Store frequently used hashtags in the Notes section of your phone so you can copy and paste them to your post captions and free up some time.

Link your Facebook and Instagram accounts via Facebook Business Suite to cross-post content and set automatic replies. In your automatic response, you can state your hours you will respond so clients know when to expect to hear from you.

Buffer Buffer allows you to schedule your content ahead of time and the calendar overview feature means you can see everything scheduled for the month ahead, with it being easy to use, edit and adapt.

Canva Canva is an easy-to-use design platform. With various design templates available, you don’t need any design experience to create professional-looking graphics for your social media platforms. You can also now schedule your creations directly from Canva to Buffer to save even more time!

PRO POINTER

“As a nail tech, you are creating content every single day with your clients by just doing what you love,” smiles Abbie Turner, digital marketing executive at Sweet Squared. “Take pictures of the finished results, snap ‘before’ images of nails you feel are going to be particularly transformed and try Reels and videos for ‘watch me work’ shots. If you can, post an Instagram Story in between clients and then allocate around half an hour each evening to select the best photos from the day and post them on your grid.” 32 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

A HELPING HAND

Sarah Hartley is a digital marketing consultant with a background in beauty, dedicated to helping small businesses – particularly salons – grow their business via effective social media marketing. Via her business, Blossom Tree Social, Sarah offers an Instagram audit service, one-to-one training and the Blossoming Salon Socials membership, which helps salon owners to become more confident and organised with their social media platforms and gain more clients. To find out more, visit www.blossomtreesocial.com and watch our interview with Sarah by scanning here

Follow Scratch on social media: /scratchmag

@scratchmagazine

@scratch.magazine

R U F GO YOUR OWN WAY

Heart braker

GONE ROGUE

radiate my love

ARTISTIC MOVES

sHe’s a spark plug

BE BOLD

torque it!

OUTSIDE THE LINES

grease monkey

supercHarged

artisticnaildesign.com

BOUNDARY BREAKER

proFessional Formulas | proFessional results™ model is wearing sHe’s a spark plug

0333 000 2100 +44(0)20 8238 6300 info@louellabelle.co.uk www.louellabelle.co.uk

facebook.com/louellabelle @louella_belle linkedin.com/company/louella-belle

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Chair – Marian Newman BEM

Deputy chair & director of information – Sue Davies

Director of education – Donna Clayton

Director of licence to teach – Jennie Nippard

Treasurer & financial director – Peter Borg

Membership secretary – Alexandra Cassells

THE FORCE

OF THE FEDS Plan ahead for the festive season & beyond to make the most of every opportunity, advises PETER BORG, finance director at the FNP

TIME TO ACT: PREPARE FOR AN EXCITING 2022

hink back to this time last year when your business reopened after months of lockdowns and restrictions. Your columns were hopefully full with plenty of forward bookings. Life was getting back to normal. Your numbers were high and your team was motivated. The last quarter was set to be a great one!

However, at the end of October, the government announced another lockdown for the month of November. Our industry once again had to pull down its shutters, put staff on furlough and stay at home. There was light at the end of the tunnel though, as we were to reopen on 2 December. We could still benefit from the mad Christmas rush and we could still earn a wage. Guests were called and rescheduled, stock was ordered, Christmas decorations went up and we remained as positive as we could.

FESTIVE FORWARD-PLANNING Think about how many weeks you have left until Christmas. Christmas Day and Boxing Day fall on a weekend so that means you will have extra bank holidays on the Monday and Tuesday; that’s four days of closure.

“Start your you started to look at your staff rotas? conversations and Have Perhaps you will open for longer days in plans now. Get your December. You might even open for additional during the month. Now is the time to guests into the habit days relay this to your team and your guests. of booking all their Have you ordered all of your stock for the appointments festive season? Perhaps your suppliers are creating Christmas gift sets that will sell out from now until soon. Have you stocked up on your red nail Christmas.” shades and glitters? Have you perfected your

December arrived, our doors opened and once again our salons were back in full swing, this was it. There was not going to be another lockdown. Mulled wine was being poured and Christmas songs were being played in salons up and down the country, gift cards were being snapped up for loved ones and everyone was getting into the spirit of Christmas. And then it happened again. Boris called a Downing Street briefing on 19 December announcing that we must close the following morning – but there were still five more days to go until Christmas; five more days of packed columns and only five more days until rent quarter day. Restrictions stayed in place until 12 April but so far, the rest of this year is looking really positive. Salons are getting busier and exhibitions are back on the map to which means we can all see our favourite suppliers again and mingle with our peers. 34 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The last quarter of 2021 is here and I want you all to get the most out of it and make it your best one yet. If you haven’t started to prepare, now is the time to do it.

snowman and holly nail art designs? Gift cards are a big moneymaker yet it amazes me how many salons do not promote them. Make sure you have plenty available and a notice in reception and across your social media platforms to promote them. The one thing I hear regularly from salon owners is that they hate it when guests use a gift card as they won’t take any money that day from that guest. Change your mindset, as most gift card bearers are new to your salon and most will spend more than the value of their gift card. What’s more, if your service is perfect and they are happy, most will come back for another treatment and no doubt tell others about their amazing experience. Make sure you have enough treatment menus to give to every guest that walks out of the door; whether a regular client or a newbie. They may find treatments on your menu that they did not know you offered.

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

“After the doom and gloom of the past 18 months, I have a feeling the spirit of Christmas will be huge this year so make the most of it.” Next, focus on the decorations for your salon. At my salon, Queen B Luxury Nail & Beauty Lounge, we dress our windows in early November as it makes passers-by look twice. Don’t forget to remove clutter from the windows; stand outside when it’s dark and look at your salon objectively. If you’re stuck for ideas, explore looks and decorations on Pinterest. Create a list of things you will be doing over the festive period. Will you want to pour wine and prosecco for your guests? Find out from your local council if you need a licence to do this. If you are selling alcohol, you most definitely will. Consider how you will store the bottles. Do you have a fridge to keep the bottles chilled? Who will be responsible for cleaning the glasses? Do you have enough glasses? How will you present the drinks? Perhaps you will need a tray? Break down every single thing you will be doing and really dissect it to ensure you have covered all bases. Don’t forget Christmas Jumper Day and the benefits of social media. Your followers will love to see your team making merry in a Christmas jumper – and take lots of snaps of the team with your new window displays. After the doom and gloom of the past 18 months, I have a feeling the spirit of Christmas will be huge this year so make the most of it.

ACT NOW Start your conversations and plans now. Get your guests into the habit of booking all their appointments from now until Christmas. Imagine your guests book in every two weeks to get their nails done; if you book them in every two weeks from now until Christmas, guess what? Your columns will be full and you can plan your finances better. But don’t stop there – if they have not had a pedicure for a while, encourage them to book. Do they need nail art? Perhaps you have other add-on services you can talk to them about. Remind your clients that you may receive bookings from new clients for special occasions – so they need to think ahead if they want to guarantee a specific appointment slot. Then, once you have got your guests into the habit of booking all of their appointments until Christmas, go that step further and announce you are opening your books for 2022 in November.

NEW PATRON ANNOUNCED! Bio Sculpture has joined fellow nail brands OPI and Glitterbels as an FNP patron. Marian Newman, chair of the FNP comments: “I am beyond delighted to announce that Bio Sculpture is supporting the FNP. The brand introduced the first soak-off gel nail products to the market over 33 years ago and creating innovative, progressive gel products is in the blood of this family-run business. “Bio Sculpture has accrued an outstanding reputation for its commitment to education and professionalism, shown by the thousands of highly regarded Bio Sculpture and Evo Gel trained nail professionals on Instagram. Based in South Africa, home to its very own factory where all its soak-off gel products are made, Bio Sculpture’s commitment to others goes beyond just the nail industry. The Bio Sculpture Foundation supports the local community and ensures that schooling, food, and water are provided for those who need it. The brand has a strong focus on natural nail health, particularly owing to its Ethos range which can be worn under any Bio or Evo Gel manicure.” Bio Sculpture UK: www.renewbeauty.co.uk

Imagine if all of your regular clients secure their appointments for the year ahead. Some may find this odd, but your regulars may see the sense in it. Then, when you open your doors on 2 January with lots of forward bookings, 2022 will be your best year yet! Good luck – and I hope to meet some of you at various exhibitions this month at which the FNP will be exhibiting. www.the-fnp.com

/TheFNPUK

@the_fnp_

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 35

Zippy E-File SPEED UP YOUR SERVICES A cordless, rechargeable manicure-pedicure e-file that incorporates the latest technology, in a convenient, portable and lightweight size.

• Digital display & up to 20-hour battery life • Extremely quiet drill • Convenient belt clip & on-the-go Carrier Case included • Ultra light hand-piece with twist & lock system • Forward and reverse functions • Designed in the U.S.A by Light Elegance • NEW Z-Bits designed to accommodate a wide range of services and ideal for left-handed pros too!

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MASTERING ZIPPY EDUCATION COURSES AVAILABLE EARLY OCTOBER

Learn to master speedy services with the Zippy E-file! We’ll cover everything from prep and in-fills to removal and finishing.

Whether you’re a natural nail tech using gel polish and builder gel or an enhancement pro, we have courses to suit you! Scan the QR code to find out more.

sweetsquared.com 03 3 3 0 0 0 70 0 0

NAILSYSTEMS

L&P:

The Ultimate Q&A Struggling with sculpting or keen to enhance your shaping skills? EMMA HOBDAY puts your pressing L&P acrylic questions to industry insiders… What are the advantages of L&P?

“From a creative perspective it allows the technician freedom of choice,” says Annabel Maginnis, founder of Glitterbels. “From one colour applications to 3D and colour blocking, the possibilities with L&P are endless. The fact that we can create long, short and mid length nails, as well as various shapes to suit the client’s needs, means it’s a popular nail service. Plus, with great structure the nails can last for a long time, giving the wearer a longer duration to enjoy their gorgeous nails.” Glitterbels Coloured Acrylic Powders from £8.95 inc VAT each www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk

What clients are best suited to L&P enhancements? “Clients who seek to add strength and length to their nails are ideal candidates for L&P Jenni Draper enhancements, but a client’s occupation, hobbies and lifestyle choices should all be considered as part of the decision making process,” says Jenni Draper, PR & creative manager at Louella Belle. “The basic rules are that healthy nails that simply need some extra length and strength do well with gel. Damaged nails in need of a makeover do well with L&P acrylic. “Once you determine which product might be best based on the condition of the natural nail, the next step is to take a look at your client’s lifestyle. Someone who is less active will be more suited to a gel enhancement, whereas someone who is hands-on and heavy handed would be more suited to an L&P enhancement. If a client likes to wear a longer, more extreme length nail, then an L&P enhancement will be more suited to this client.”

38 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Nails by Mino Vo

How do you choose the right cover shade to suit your client?

“The client’s skin tone should be considered when Fereida Lydiate choosing which colour cover to use,” comments Fereida Lydiate, head educator at Hazel Dixon Nail Academy & Scratch Stars L&P Tech of the Year 2019. “When consulting with a new client, I have my cover powders ready on a full nail tip so I can easily place near the tip of the finger and see which colour will best suit.

French L&P nails by Fereida Lydiate

“The general rule of thumb is that fairer and lighter skin tones will generally suit more pinky, rose shades, and olive and dark skin tones will suit beige, nude and HD Pro Nails Camouflage peachy powders. I love using Silk Rose and Powder in Silk Rose from £10.55 + VAT Rosey Peach from the www.hazeldixonnails.com HD Pro Nails range, which also offers a collection of ombré powders for extra coverage due to high pigmentation.”

Kinetics offers its liquid & powder products in two sizes. The variety of Pro Performance Powder shades ensure that there’s a hue to suit any skin tone. Kinetics nail products are available via www.bellabooprobeauty.co.uk & www.kineticsnails.co.uk

NAILSYSTEMS What are your top tips for building an appropriate apex with L&P?

“The apex is the highest point of the nail enhancement and should be placed between the middle of the nail and the natural nail Kamila Borowiec free edge, depending on the length of the enhancement, as that is where breaks most often occur,” comments Kamila Borowiec, Scratch Stars L&P Tech of the Year finalist 20/21. “Shaping and filing is just as important as accurate apex placement to achieve the perfect balance,” she continues. “During my time in nails, I have tried many different techniques, and I have found one that is effective whether you are sculpting or using nail tips or doing a plain colour or a more intricate design.”

How would you perfect a salon-style ombré or baby boomer style? “I like to start with choosing the right colour to match the skin tone, so I select bright white, Tina Bell soft white, peach or pink cover powder. Once I’m happy, I start by perfecting a thin application of white and make sure I blend it right down into the base so there is no ridge,” says Tina Bell, head of education at Pure Nails. “Next I come up from the cuticle area with the chosen cover powder, making sure I keep application thin at the cuticle with a good apex but also blend it up over the white to create a perfect blend. If I am using my favourite acrylics, Bright White and Cover Pink, then I like to cap the blend using Transparent Pink instead of Clear,” she adds.

SCULPTING STEP-BY-STEP

Step 1: Prep the nail for traditional acrylic application and apply a form or nail tips. Step 2: Apply a thin layer of your chosen acrylic cover powder. You can apply on the entire nail and the form or just from the middle of the nail. This will act as a base. Apply a second, thin layer from the middle of the nail to build up the thickness. Step 3: Apply second bead from the cuticle area to the tip of the nail. Next, apply one layer of clear acrylic over entire enhancement. Step 4: File the nail’s surface until it is balanced from side to side and front to back. The product should transition smoothly from the apex to the tip, cuticle and sidewalls. “We apply acrylic in these key steps starting from the middle of the nail, then another bead from the cuticle onwards, and the last one capping with clear acrylic,” Kamila continues. “When sculpting nails and adding design, create a very thin base with the clear acrylic and then create the design. Once the design is complete, apply two beads of clear acrylic starting from the middle of the nail and then from the cuticle onwards.”

“I think this makes it a perfect blend and an overall softer, classic look. The last thing you want to do is to damage your work when doing your filing technique so make sure you cap it well.”

Nailchemy Genesis Core Collection; Monomer from £5.80 + VAT & Core Powders £9.50 + VAT each www.nailchemy.co.uk

Halo Acrylic Liquid £14.69 + VAT & Acrylic Powder in Cover Pink £12.06 + VAT www.purenails.co

Which clients would not be suited to L&P enhancements? “Though nail technologies have advanced over time in terms of flexibility and strength, I still believe that clients who work in manually intensive roles will Annabel Maginnis struggle to wear L&P enhancements,” says Annabel Maginnis, founder of Glitterbels. “Also, a client who works in a jewellers could find their ability to handle the jewellery clasps are compromised. This is another reason why it is so important to do client consultations; to establish what system best suits the client and their lifestyle, allowing the best treatment to be offered.”

How would you assess the most suitable L&P enhancement shape and length for your client?

“To determine the ideal shape and length nail enhancement, firstly take a look at the natural shape near the cuticle area,” suggests Dave Partridge, director at Nailchemy. “If it is rounded, a round, oval or almond shape will suit. If more square, choose a square, squoval or tapered square enhancement to complement. The length of the enhancement, in order to properly support the extension, is ideally extended by the length of the natural nail plate.” Dave Partridge

Nails by Annabel Maginnis

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 39

NAILSYSTEMS How can you ensure the right ratio of liquid to powder, and pink to white? “Making sure you know the ratio for your acrylic system is key to an easy, stress-free application, or one where you’re going to throw the brush after two nails!” says Tina Bell, head of education at Pure Nails. “Get in touch with the brand you’re using to ask the ratio, or do a conversion course so you fully understand the products and so save time and money.” “Every client is different; some like a lot of white, some only want a little bit poking through at the edge, but for me I like to divide the nail into three quarters. My first application of white, I blend down to just past the first third, then with my cover pink I bring it up over the other two thirds to blend over the white, ever so slightly. I love this ratio and it proves a hit with the clients.”

Magda Gniewek

How would you determine the pricing of L&P services, from salon style to more advanced shapes?

“In addition to the materials, you have rent fees, equipment, service, travel costs, courses as well as the time spent on the nails to consider,” says Magda Gniewek of Magnetic Nails UK. “Dissect your costs and time spent and divide by number of clients you service to make sure you do not work for free. Looking at the price points of your competitors is important but blindly copying their price lists might not cover your operating costs. “It is important to adjust prices to your skill level, quality of your work and level of difficulty of service provided as well as timing,” Magda continues. “Long stilettos with encapsulating nail art can’t cost the same as short, natural-looking extensions, so don’t forget to include time in your pricing structure. Here is an example of how to calculate your price point for L&P acrylic extensions: Material costs (liquid, powder, forms, bond, disposable files, Top Gel): £6.60 Service costs (wipes, cleansers, disposables, disinfection, electricity, rent): £10 per client Hourly rate: £20 = Short L&P Acrylic Extension (1.5hrs): £6.60 + £10 + £30 = £46.60 Enhancement with encapsulating nail art (4hrs): £6.60 + £7 + £80 + nail art products £10 = £103.60.” Magnetic High Tech Forms £23.95 + VAT www.magneticnails.uk

Magnetic Prestige Acrylic Liquid £29.95 + VAT www.magneticnails.uk

40 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Magnetic Prestige Camouflage Powder £12.55 + VAT www.magneticnails.uk

Nails by Tracy McGoogan

“To work with the correct ratio every time, it’s important that the brush only holds the right amount of monomer to create the size of bead you need for the application. Tracy McGoogan This can be difficult to recognise as each nail shape and size is different,” adds INK educator, Tracy McGoogan. “The best way to visibly see that you have the correct ratio is that if the bead is very shiny and wet, and immediately starts to lose shape and drop off the brush, it has too much monomer to powder ratio. “If the bead looks powdery and is very hard with no movement and doesn’t come off your brush, it has too little monomer to powder ratio, and you will not be able to work with it. The correct ratio bead should have a slight sheen, the surface be slightly dimpled like a golf ball, and once pressed onto the nail comes off your brush cleanly without sticking. This ensures you have the correct workable mix to create your nails.” The INK London Acrylink system is available via www.inknails.com

What are the most common issues you encounter with L&P and how can they be prevented or managed? “If the product is lifting from the cuticle area a few days after application, then the material has flooded the cuticle during the application because the product was too wet and runny or the prep work hasn’t been completed correctly,” says Monika Kupien‘ of Indigo Nails. “Make sure you have removed the cuticle very carefully from the nail plate, and avoid contact of the product with the skin. Also, practice your acrylic ratio in different temperatures, as the same ratio you will use on hot summer days will be too thin to work with in the winter, and might flood surrounding skin.” “If the nail enhancements are coming off partially in the centre and from the side walls, it means that the natural nail preparation isn’t correct. You should dehydrate the natural nail, and take care not to touch the prepared nail surface with your fingers. If this always Indigo Nails Lab Nail Liquid £19.60 inc VAT & Fashion happens with one client Pink Powder £8.70 inc VAT in particular, it is likely www.indigo-nails.co.uk that their nails are too moist. Dehydrate, apply primer and then apply the system to just one nail at a time.” Monika Kupien‘

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NAILSYSTEMS

Nails by Anona Grice

Nails by Amy Martin

“L&P is a difficult system to get used to, but when application is done correctly, the results are Amy Martin beautiful,” comments Amy Martin, Georgie Smedley Group educator. “It can be frustrating when starting out because sometimes it can be hard to work out where you went wrong – it could be too much primer, not enough primer, the beads are too wet or even too dry! Did you build an apex? Was the shape and length suitable for the client’s lifestyle? The list is endless, which is why I always recommend investing in quality training to help you overcome these obstacles. “I trained with Georgie Smedley Group in L&P application in 2014 and use the Nail Harmony ProHesion system to this day. My clients can easily go four weeks with zero lifting or popping off between appointments.” Nail Harmony ProHesion Perfetto Nail Sculpting Forms £5.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

“When working with L&P enhancements you can find some clients may experience lifting, particularly if they have oily nail beds,” comments Glossify ambassador, Lauren McNair. “This can be prevented by using an acid primer as opposed to a non-acid primer before application.”

Nails by Lauren McNair

42 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

“Many students struggle with mix ratio; working too wet and working too dry,” reveals Victoria Trafford, CND™ EA. “This can cause service breakdown and leads to excess refinement which in turn adds to your service time. Mix ratio will vary with brands so Victoria Trafford it’s important to know the mix ratio of your specific system and to use both monomer and polymer from the brand. “I would always recommend booking a one-to-one lesson with an educator. Mix ratio is the basis for your enhancement and if this is spot on, you will solve many of your problems.” CND Retention+ Liquid from £25.95 + VAT and Powder in Clear £9.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Nail Harmony ProHesion Master Kit £119.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

Lauren McNair

“One of the biggest problems with L&P acrylic is that heat starts the polymerisation Anona Grice process, so if your workroom is too hot or too cold it affects how the product cures,” reveals Anona Grice, Magpie Beauty educator. “In the summer we can encounter acrylic curing too quickly, causing it to be unworkable, and in the winter we can find acrylic not curing as quickly, meaning we can’t file and refine at the speed we normally would. I would always suggest having heaters or fans within your workroom and keeping your dappen dish and monomer in a cold icy container can help Magpie Beauty Acrylic Trial Kit £19.95 + VAT counteract the heat in www.magpiebeauty.co.uk the summertime.”

Glossify Acrylic Powder £10.50 inc VAT www.glossify.co.uk

Rachel Lloyd with business partner Katiie Norman

“Lifting or snapping of nails can occur when prep isn’t carried out correctly or if the apex structure is incorrect,” Rachel Lloyd, founder of Goddess By Rachel. “I encourage infills every couple of weeks, even if the nails are still perfect, to ensure there’s no damage to the natural nail or matrix from outgrown enhancements.”

Nails by Rachel Lloyd using Goddess By Rachel products, available via www.goddessemporium.co.uk

NAILSYSTEMS How would you create the dragon nail shape using L&P? “I always create dragon shapes using a solid cover pink powder with a fast set Hazel Dixon monomer and a larger brush (size 10-12) so that I can pick up larger beads of acrylic to save time,” says multi award-winning nail stylist & brand owner, Hazel Dixon. “Having the ultra-long sculpting forms makes it much easier. I use Bojana Kostka extreme forms, but if you don’t have these you can put two normal forms together.

Nails by Bojana Kostka

Bojana Kostka

What can you do with L&P in terms of design creation that you can’t do with gel?

“Ensuring that both sides of the nail you’re creating is the same is the trickiest part, but the easiest way is to pre-draw the shape on the form to follow when sculpting the nail. Bojana Kostka forms already have the dragon shape lines to follow on the form, so again these forms are amazing for extreme nails.”

“From the beginning of my career, when I started inventing extreme nail forms, I mainly used the L&P system as it’s strong and quick to work with,” says Bojana Kostka, international educator & founder of Kostka Nail System. “Gel is not as strong as and while filing, the nail can tremble, meaning the process is more challenging and the nail is easier to break. “The advantage of L&P is that you can create 3D elements such as flowers, skulls, people, animals, or any shape with ease. Acrylic can be easily manipulated, allowing you better precision for 3D elements.”

HD Pro Nails Master Pro Acrylic Brush #10 £POA www.hazeldixonnails.com

“When creating a dragon nail I map and draw out the shape on my extreme nail form by Krista Paulitti,” comments multi awardwinning nail stylist, Mino Vo. “After fitting my form, I sculpt a spine/ stiletto before sculpting the shape of the dragon nail and blending any uneven parts.

How you would perfect a salonstyle L&P French?

“I like to file the stiletto shape very slim, then round the top surface. To file the shape of the dragon I use an e-file, and finally file a very flat surface on the sides using a regular file.

“Creating a L&P French can be a daunting prospect, but like any grand design project you need good foundations, followed by sound structure and a flawless finish,” says Kylea Wherry, Scratch Stars L&P Tech of the Year 20/21. Kylea Wherry

“I prefer to sculpt as I can tailor each enhancement to an individual nail, creating a bespoke set. Not all 10 nails will have the same starting point; some will be flat, hooked or bitten, but through correct form tailoring and fitting they should all be uniform at the end. “To create an almond French with forms or tips, apply the first bead of cover product at the natural nail’s free edge, ensuring the back of the bead is flush. Stretch the product down to create an almond shape to build a ‘wall’ of product around the edge of the nail (smile line), right up to the wings to push the white up to. After lots of practice, I now don’t need to file my smile lines, which saves time. “Next I apply the back bead from the cuticle area down into the first zone, and pinch when ready. I pinch my nail bed before the white to make sure I don’t miss the correct point of pinching. Next, I move onto application of the white, following the lower arch to the end of the form and into the wings. “I use my metal file to finish as it has zero flex so gives me the straight sharp lines I want, then with a 240-grit buffer to remove scratches before applying top coat.” Nail by Kylea Wherry

Dragon nails by Hazel Dixon

Dragon nails by Mino Vo

“Once I am happy with everything, I file the needle. To finish I smooth the surface using multiple grit buffers.” Mino has developed his own dragon inspired nail shape, called Shanghai, with all his shapes being named after cities worldwide. “The Shanghai shape is a modern and more Eastern influenced compared to the traditional dragon nail,” he shares.

“The advantage of L&P is that you can create 3D elements such as flowers, skulls, people, animals, or any shape with ease. Acrylic can be easily manipulated, allowing you better precision for 3D elements.” >> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 43

NAILSYSTEMS What are your top tips for preventing yellowing when using L&P? “In the past, I have found some L&P products, if not used correctly, can yellow,” states Jade Evangelou, Louella Belle educator. “In my experience, I have found the Artistic Rock Hard system ensures great clarity. As long as your brush is stored and cleaned correctly, the colour stabilisers and UV advanced pigments and dyes won’t cause yellowing.” Jade Evangelou

Offering excellent clarity, the Apex Artistic Rock Hard Liquid system provides increased workability & Powder Rockin’ French and control. “The powders are super fine Collection £69.95 + VAT for great self-levelling,” comments Jim www.louellabelle.co.uk McConnell, co-founder of Light Elegance. “The formula minimises filing needs and is non-yellowing.” The Clear, Brilliant White, Cover Pink and Blush Pink powders are available in two sizes, as is the Apex Acrylic Liquid. The range is completed with four pink rhinestone handled kolinsky brushes with caps in sizes 6, 8, 10 and 12. Light Elegance Apex Acrylic Liquid £11.45 + VAT and Cover Pink Powder £12.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

What are your top tips for choosing an L&P brush, and ensuring it stays in tip-top condition? “When choosing a liquid & powder brush the ideal size brush would be a size 8. As your product ratio progresses, you can move to larger sizes,” says Dave Partridge, director of Nailchemy. “I look for a brush made from kolinsky hair as it is fine, natural and extremely soft, making it easy to work with. An oval shaped brush doesn’t absorb too much monomer, and is often a typical cuticle area shape, ensuring a flush cuticle bead application. “I always store my brush with bristles down as you don’t want excess monomer to enter the ferrule of the brush, possibly breaking down the structure of the bristles. I do leave a small amount of monomer in the bristles and twist the brush onto tissue before placing the lid on, as I find this does ensure the bristles are kept neat and tidy.” Light Elegance Acrylic Brush #8 £34.45 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com Nailchemy A8 Acrylic Brush £22.50 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk

How would you create the butterfly nail shape using L&P? Multi award-winning nail tech, educator Katie Barnes & brand founder, Katie Barnes, advises that when creating a butterfly, or any extreme shaped nail you want to achieve elegance with a slim nail, without bulk. “To succeed, this firstly starts with the correct form placement and KB Form Tailoring Kit £45.99 + VAT adjustments. This will allow you to www.katiebarnesacademy.com close the nail form perfectly without creases or bulges, especially at the natural nail corner points. To tailor my nail forms I always use KB Form Tailoring Kit®. “When you look at your nail form, if it is not slim at this point, your nail enhancement on top will naturally always be wider. Both sides of the nail form must be symmetrical. There is no room for error on a butterfly shape as the smallest of mistakes with the form fit will show in the finished nail. “When creating a butterfly shape, my preference of liquid & powder is a slower drying product. This offers me the time to play with the product and stretch and mould it into place. This results in less filing required. Knowing your medium and product is vital to the success of creating this shape as different products and brands will work differently.” Want to know how to create this stained glass butterfly nail by Katie Barnes? Scan here

“When choosing a liquid & powder brush the ideal size brush would be a size 8. As your product ratio progresses, you can move to larger sizes.” NSI’s Attraction Acrylic nail enhancement system helps create captivating enhancements with excellent adhesion. The Attraction Acrylic Liquid evaporates slowly, reducing odours and helping to deliver strength and flexibility. The Acrylic Powders are formulated for effortless workability and available in 16 shades in a variety of sizes. NSI Attraction L&P Intro Kit £35.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

44 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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BUSINESSMATTERS

Learning from

h t i m S a z Li 20/21 WINNER

Want to improve & elevate your salon business? Industry icon & award-winning salon owner, Liza Smith, serves up guidance with an exciting academy opportunity… CHLOE RANDALL REPORTS Future proofing your business seems more necessary than ever after a tough time in the nail industry. Before March 2020, salon businesses hadn’t comprehended the thought of closing for such a substantial amount of time and business models didn’t allow for money to be made while closed. This led to an extremely concerning time for nail technicians and salon business owners during the pandemic that are still being felt today. To support needs and help such owners get back on their feet, salon business expert, Liza Smith has launched The Business of Salons Academy. The purpose is to elevate all salon professionals regardless of their chosen skillset or business model and to allow them to generate a great income and run a successful and ever-growing business. “My promise to my members is to teach them to understand their business as well as they understand their clients,” Liza affirms. With an inspiring mantra and years of experience under her belt, read on to find out more about the memberships Liza has available and what is involved to develop your salon business.

“My promise to my members is to teach them to understand their business as well as they understand their clients.”

The inspiration…

While at college, Liza completed a City & Guilds salon management qualification, affording a business insight to complement the creativity and science behind being a nail technician. “I started to notice that most salon professionals had never received any business education at all; not even how to evaluate their prices,” reveals Liza. “I was giving a talk a few years ago and noted that my knowledge of business strategy was more elevated than others in the room. “I received many messages of thanks after my talk, and it made me realise that our industry needs more business education.”

46 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Meet Liza Smith…

Liza is known in all corners of the nail industry and has immersed herself in various areas of the sector alongside running Sittingbourne-based salon, Bodylines, which she has co-owned for over 34 years. She scooped the Scratch Stars Award for Services To The Nail Industry in July 2021. Liza has competed nationally and internationally for over 15 years, going on to win many awards for her nail work and designs, and her salon has scooped accolades twice at the Scratch Stars Awards across its nine-year run. Also a CND™ education ambassador for two decades, Liza was honoured to receive the CND™ International Educator of the Year award earlier this year, remarking that CND™ and Sweet Squared have been pivotal in her career development. Working alongside the likes of industry veterans Marian Newman and Lorraine Griffin, Liza has also had a very successful career as a session nail technician, and has counted Victoria Beckham and Naomi Campbell among her clients. She has also led her own team backstage at fashion weeks in London, New York, Paris and Milan, working for the likes of Tom Ford, Charlotte Tilbury and Louis Vuitton on campaigns and shows. With an ever-extending résumé, Liza is now offering salon professionals to learn from her knowledge and experience in future proofing their own business with the launch of The Business of Salons Academy.

BUSINESSMATTERS

The process…

Liza has devised a programme that allows members to dissect every aspect of their business; pulling it apart piece by piece and improving every element before putting it back together. “I have written six modules and the first module to drop is Vision, because we need to know where we are going before setting the sat nav to take us there!” enthuses Liza. Each module has six lessons on average with a workbook and a video tutorial available for each lesson. Different resources will also be available based on the type of membership chosen. The memberships available: 1. Community – £Free 2. Solo professionals – for professionals wanting to build up a more profitable business and expanding. £49 per month. It features an hour-long live Q&A with Liza twice a month. 3. Salon owners – needing extra knowledge in elements such as HR, employment law and leadership. £97 per month. It features weekly live Q&A sessions with Liza. 4. One-to-one coaching – £1,997 for three months. Each month a new module will launch and at the end of the six months, each module is revisited on a deeper level, allowing members to continue the journey of never standing still. Alongside this, there will be templates and documents in the membership vault to help carry out the exercises in the modules, with additional resources in the Salon Owner’s membership. There will be guest experts providing webinars and Q&A sessions as well as a closed Facebook group for the members to help each other with accountability and to build a community of likeminded salon business owners. Lastly, there is the option to fast-track the first three months of the programme and receive one-to-one help from Liza to directly look at the business.

“Liza has devised a programme that allows members to dissect every aspect of their business.”

The goal

“In the long term, I see the Business of Salons Academy merging with my existing academy to become a one-stop-shop for high level education for salon professionals, including practical training, competition training and business mastery,” states Liza. “My goal has always been to elevate all areas of the salon industry, and I continue to educate myself from my own business mentors and coaches, enabling me to educate and inspire the amazing small businesses that make up our industry.” Are you interested in becoming a Business Of Salons Academy member? Scan here www.thebusinessofsalons.com /thebusinessofsalonsacademy

@thebusinessofsalonsacademy SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 47

s e p o c s l i a N

SPIRIT&STYLE

gn ris ti c s o f e a c h si te c ra a h c e th Im m e rs e in e xp lo re s c o lo u r Y E IL IE LL A C s a o f th e zo d ia c , u r st a r st yl e … yo it su to s n g si p ic ks & d e BIRTHDAY FOCUS

Hannah Garbett Esteemed educator and Staffordshire Nail Academy co-founder, Hannah, has 17 years’ experience in the nail industry and celebrates her birthday on 14 October, falling under the Libra star sign. “I love how the nail industry is constantly evolving. It never stands still and there is always something new to learn,” Hannah reveals. “In the last 10 years, the amount of creativity I have witnessed from techs in the industry has been phenomenal and I love seeing all the designs on social media. “As a Libra, I am optimistic and always try to look on the bright side of life. I feel this helps push me to achieve my goals in work and in my personal life. It’s definitely been a big help throughout the last 18 months.” /staffordshirenailacademyuk

@sna_professional

Scorpio

Libra

SEPTEMBER 23 – OCTOBER 22

gn by tte desi l This ma an idea is ils a n p bra! @jessie r any Li fo t se y birthda

Happy birthday Libras! It’s time to break out of your old routine and replace the old with the new. This month is the perfect time to experiment with new nail styles.

OCTOBER 23 – NOVEMBER 21

Unlock your true potential and begin making active, positive changes in your life. Attract good vibes by wearing tones of yellow or mustard on nails. Astonishing Nails Gelosophy in Brave £12.50 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk

Aquarius

Capricorn

DECEMBER 22 – JANUARY 19

October is a period for decision-making and future planning for Capricorns. This month is a great time to embark on new projects in the workplace.

Aries

MARCH 21 – ARPIL 19 October will bring heightened motivation for Aires to look ahead and plan for the future. Keep calm during this busy period by decorating your nails with a mood-boosting pink.

JANUARY 20 – FEBRUARY 18

Fast moving, big changes are approaching Aquarians this month. This month, take time to get organised and clear out clutter.

Taurus

APRIL 20 – MAY 20

This month is a time of hard work and ambition to move forward for Taureans. Stay motivated by wearing bold orange tones on nails. Salon System Gellux in We Rise By Lifting Others £11.95 + VAT. Available via wholesalers nationwide.

Light Elegance Glitter Gel in Safari Sweetheart £18.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Cancer

Cancers are taking a position of leadership and authority in their lives this month. Find the confidence to live your life how you want by adding blue tones to nails. 48 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Leo

JULY 23 – AUGUST 22

JUNE 21 – JULY 22

This celestial nail design by Hannah Garbett utilises pink, a top colour pick for Libras.

October brings renewed energy to Leos that allows them to continuing sharing with and helping those in both their personal and professional lives.

Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish in Laying Low £16.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

Sa arius

NOVEMBER 22 – DECEMBER 21

This month has a strong focus on teaching and learning for Sagittarians. Open your mind and boost your creativity by opting for an inviting green shade on nails.

Magpie Beauty Gel Colour in Jungle Jane £9.95 + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk

Pisces

FEBRUARY 19 – MARCH 20

Personal relationships are a key focus for Pisces this month. Make plans with friends and family.

Gemini

MAY 21 – JUNE 20

October is a time of personal growth and progress for Gemini. Keep working on your talents and improving your skills to reap the rewards!

Virgo

AUGUST 23 – SEPTEMBER 22

Make room for new things this month, as October offers Virgo new perspective s. This month is a good time to focus on your work life and how to seek fulfilment from your career.

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K I C K S TA R T YO U R CA R E E R O R D E V E LO P YO U R S K I L L S AT T G B ACA D E M Y W I T H O U R W O R L D - C L A S S E D U CAT O R S . I T ’ S T I M E T O F O C U S O N YO U !

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SEASONALIDEAS

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G N I L STY

u r o f H a llo w e e n o m la g h lis u o h s E m b ra c e th e g o ky sa lo n se tu p o sp r fo ts a e tr & w it h so m e tr ic ks e si g n s & d e v ili sh n a il d ALL

BY CHLOE RAND CND Vinylux™ in Candlelight £4.95 + VAT/RRP £11.95 www.sweetsquared.com

Salon System Gellux in Dare To Wear £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

Scream if you love this monochrome nail design by Alana of aptly named @trickortreatnails

Lecenté educator, Jenny Nagorski, gives cats a Halloween makeover in this design using Lecenté Create Harvest Moon Gel Polish and Sugar Plum Multiglitz.

Glitterbels Coloured Acrylic Powder in Tangerine £8.95 inc VAT www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk

Astonishing Nails Gelosophy in Elegant £12.50 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk

The Gel Bottle Inc in Stiletto & After Dark £14.50 + VAT each www.thegelbottle.com

Magpie Beauty Halloween Nail Art Stickers £2.10 + VAT each www.magpiebeauty.co.uk Bats meet beauty in this gorgeous Halloween look by Georgie Smedley Group ambassador, Diana Pajeva.

52 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

TOP TIP!

“Market your Halloween nail art designs using your social media platforms. The fact it is mostly free helps you to get word out about your seasonal nail art offerings at minimal cost,” reveals Elissa Newton, CND™ education ambassador. “Make it fun! Images of your salon decorated for Halloween, step-by-steps, basic seasonal images and using themed posts made on apps such as Canva are great ways to market your seasonal offerings to new and existing clients. You could also send an email to your client list.” Magnetic Nail Design trainer and distributor, Joanna Figasinska, decorated an empty gel polish bottle with coloured acrylic to create this Halloween-y artistry.

SEASONALIDEAS

Step-by-step: PUMPKIN PATCH

Artistic Colour Gloss in Outside The Lines £12.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

This glamorous yet devilish design was created by Salon System expert, Jaz Moger, using Gellux products.

Halo Create Halloween Fimo Slices £2.69 + VAT www.purenails.co

Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polish in Red Devil from £4.50 + VAT/RRP £9 www.gerrardinternational.com

Follow along and recreate this Halloween nail art design by Halo VIP, Hari Hatfield.

OPI GelColor in My Studio’s On Spring £17.80 + VAT www.opiuk.com

Step 1

Over your chosen base design, apply Halo Gel Polish in Apricot to the nails using a dotting tool. Create a heart shape with a round bottom rather than a point for the pumpkin shape. Cure.

Step 2

Using Halo Gel Polish in Black and a thin detailing brush, outline the pumpkin shape and create curved lines going from the top of the shape to the bottom. Once you’re happy with your lines, paint a stalk at the top of the pumpkin and cure.

This monochrome design including spiderwebs and stripes was created by INK London educator, Tracey Davies.

Step 3

Using Halo Gel Polish in Soldier On and a thin detailing brush, paint curly shoots coming out of the stalk. Paint a white glistening shape on one of the pumpkin segments to really make it pop! Cure.

Step 4

Apply Halo Gel Polish Non Wipe Top Coat to finish and cure. Halo products are available via www.purenails.co Follow Hari: @nailsby_harieva Glitterama The Spooky Collection Coloured Acrylic Powders from £16.99 + VAT each www.glitterama-nails.com Lecenté Pumpkin Iridescent Glitter £3.99 + VAT www.lecente.com www.sweetsquared.com www.ellisons.co.uk

Light Elegance Colour Gel in Beauty Through The Lens £18.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Beauty meets spooky in this design by Magpie Beauty educator, Amanda Byrne.

Glitterama Halloween Nail Foil £1.79 inc VAT www.glitterama-nails.com

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 53

SEASONALIDEAS Light Elegance ambassador, Ashley Biasella, uses Light Elegance products to create this glittery pumpkin design.

Get ready for pumpkin season with this design by Sara Roper using Cuccio Veneer.

This spider-tastic design was created by INK London educator, Ilonka Borkowski using INK London products.

The Scratch team playing dress-up for team-building days in 2017 and 2018.

TEAM TIME

Get your staff members into the spirit of Halloween with a spot of fancy dress. Sure to attract chatter and attention from your clients, snaps of the team will afford some fun content for your social media platforms. What’s more, it can boost team morale and salon owners can consider a prize for the best staff costume.

Nailchemy Embossing Gel in Green & Gun Metal £6.99 + VAT each www.nailchemy.co.uk

Kinetics SolarGel Nail Polish in #516 My Glower £8.25 inc VAT www.bellabooprobeauty.co.uk www.kineticsnails.co.uk

Salon System Gellux in Devil Red £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

:YOURS Double Sided Halloween Stamping Plate £7.45 +VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish in Afternoon Escape £16.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

Magpie Beauty Halloween Slices £2.70 + VAT each www.magpiebeauty.co.uk

Everyone scream for this ghoulish design by Salon System expert, Julie-Anne Larivière.

PRICING POINTER

“The best way to price Halloween nail art is to price it per minute. As every set of nails is different, I find this is the way that works best for me,” advises Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System expert. “I just divide my hourly rate by 60 and that number is how much I charge per extra minute of nail art. It means I’m never out of pocket for offering nail art.”

54 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Enchanted Essence Boysenberry Flakes £6.50 inc VAT www.enchantedessenceshop.com

SPOOKY SALON STYLING

To catch the attention of new and existing clients and get them in the mood for boo-tiful nail styling, consider decorating your salon with seasonal items. Here’s some inspiration to feed the temptation…

Accessories are used for this spooky season at Magpie educator Amanda Byrne’s salon.

A spooky tree and plush pumpkins inside the salon of Magpie senior educator, June Gilbert.

SEASONALIDEAS

Step-by-step: VAMPIRE DIARIES

Ghosts and glamour combine in this colourful design by Pure Nails ambassador, Sarah Vernon.

GET INVOLVED

“Halloween is the time when you can show off your nail art skills, give your creativity a little boost and prove to your clients that you can do so much more than apply a plain colour,” states Diana Pajeva, Georgie Smedley Group ambassador. “Nail art makes every set unique and makes clients feel special. They get attention and compliments on their nails, and from speaking to my clients, I know that they absolutely love the effects. Many may start booking nail art with every appointment. “From a financial point of view, nail art is a great add-on to a service, so it’s definitely worth putting on your nail menu. If you price it right you can add a substantial amount to your monthly takings and don’t forget to take a nice photo after the appointment, which is unique advertising content for social media. It’s a win-win situation. You get the financial reward and a context to attract more customers.”

This Vampire Diaries-inspired look was created by Sabina Nikitina, Magnetic Nail Design ambassador. brand ambassado

Step 1

Prep the nails and apply two coats of Magnetic Nail Design Whitest White gel polish, curing between each coat.

Step 2

Paint top and bottom lips with drops coming from bottom lip using Mey’s Choice 2021 gel polish by Magnetic Nail Design. Leave a gap between the lips for teeth and cure.

Step 3

Using Magnetic Nail Design Blackest Black gel polish, paint the gap between lips and cure.

INK London Steady Nail Art Gels (5pk) £37.50 + VAT www.inknails.com

Step 4

Using Liner Gel in White, paint teeth and fangs over the black shade between the lips and cure.

Step 5

Outline the lips, drips and teeth using Liner Gel in Black and cure.

Step 6

Mix Magnetic gel polish in Whitest White and Supreme Finish top gel to create a semi-transparent colour to create light reflection on the top and bottom lips.

Step 7

Using Magnetic Burgundy Glass gel polish, add shading on both the lips and drops. Cure and apply Magnetic Extreme Matt Top Gel. Cure.

Hot red nails created using NexGenNails powder in Seattle, available via www.gopretty.co.uk

Magnetic Nail Design products are available via www.magneticnails.uk Follow Sabina: Magnetic Nail Design Trick or Treat Stamping Plate £5.50 + VAT www.magneticnails.uk

Magnetic Nail Design Gel Polish in Rouge Red £14.80 + VAT www.magneticnails.uk

@sabina.nikitina

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 55

Getting down to s s e n i s u b SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Take note as the NATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FEDERATION serves up support & advice for beauty business owners

About the NHBF

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) is the UK’s largest trade body for businesses in the hair, beauty and barbering industries. The National Hair Federation launched its sister trade association for the beauty industry (NBF) in 2018, and the body relaunched as the NHBF in 2019. With Richard Lambert as the chief executive, the association provides specialist business support, advice and backup to hair and beauty businesses. Honing over 75 years’ experience, the not-forprofit organisation aims to be a reliable source of information for you and your business.

Health & safety: important notes

ealth & safety must be a priority in your nail salon to protect your staff and clients, ensure you operate within the law and remain insured against potentially expensive legal action should something go wrong. In addition, a robust health & safety policy in a business is a competitive advantage: it builds trust with your clients and benefits your reputation and brand, whereas a poor health & safety record will directly affect your nail salon’s revenue, damage a reputation, or even lead to the closure of the business. In 2018/19, 23.5 million working days were lost due to health & safety-related illnesses. Workrelated injuries and illnesses cost the UK economy £15 billion every year and business fines for safety breaches have almost doubled, increasing from £38.8m to £72.6m.

So, what needs to be done? Firstly, you will need to carry out a risk assessment, making a list of anything that could cause injury or harm in your salon. A risk assessment is not about creating huge amounts of paperwork but rather about identifying sensible measures to control the risks in your workplace. The law says every employer must carry out a risk assessment, and if you have more than five employees, it should be written down. However, it’s best practice to have a written record even if you have fewer than five employees. The NHBF health & safety toolkit includes 18 risk assessment templates covering the main hazards in beauty salon workplaces. Find it at www.nhbf.co.uk/health-safety-in-a-box. It’s a good idea to involve your staf members as they may raise issues unaware to you.

www.nhbf.co.uk @nhbfsocial

/nhbfsocial @nhbfsocial

56 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Staff training The law says you must provide health & safety training for your staff. Employees must have training before they are exposed to any risk, and you must record that it has taken place. ‘Little and often’ is a good rule for ongoing health & safety training. This ensures that health & safety protocols stay at the forefront of your employees’ minds. Consider setting aside 15-minutes at every staff meeting to cover particular issues. The NHBF health & safety toolkit for employees and the self-employed working in salons which can be used for induction and training. Find it at www.nhbf.co.uk/Beauty-health-&-safety-toolkit

Treatments and health & safety Caroline Larissey, NHBF director of quality and standards, says, “All treatments must be carried out by technicians who have the Caroline Larissey necessary qualifications, training and experience; otherwise your insurance will not cover you if things go wrong. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions and make sure your client is old enough to have the treatment or therapy and does not have any medical condition which would put them at risk. “As part of your risk assessment, make sure you know exactly which substances you have in your salon and the risks associated with them. Ensure your staff knows how to use and dispose of them safely. “Always store hazardous substances in their original containers, away from direct sunlight and preferably in a locked cupboard. Make sure you know which substances should not be poured down the sink.”

“A risk assessment is not about creating huge amounts of paperwork but rather about identifying sensible measures to control the risks in your workplace.”

INTRODUCING

STAY ON, STAY NATURAL.

OUR FIRST EVER NATURAL ORIGIN, LONG WEARING, VEGAN LACQUER. SHOP ALL 30 SHADES AT TRADE.OPIUK.COM

BRANDFOCUS

From Latvia…

with love Keen to explore a new nail offering? Check out Kinetics – the product line for pros with an 18-year history & a focus on formulation, design & fabulous results EMMA HOBDAY REPORTS The Kinetics team has been creating nail products for professionals for 18 years from its lab and factory in Latvia – and it’s now making its mark on the UK market from a hub in London. The brand name itself speaks for its key focus; with ‘chemical kinetics’ being the understanding of chemical reaction rates, and the lab’s chemists keen to perfect the formula of every single product before it comes to market. “Our chemists create hundreds of formulas every month to be tested by nail professionals,” comments Roma Nixon, founder of BellaBoo Professional Beauty and distributor of Kinetics products in the UK. “Only when approved by both teams – chemists and educators – is a product launched to the market.” Roma Nixon

HOT PICK!

Enhance nails by up to 2mm with the brushon Shield Ceramic Bases, available in eight naturallooking shades. Durable yet light to wear, the firm structure eliminates the formation of cracks for a smooth nail finish.

58 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The range includes:

• Shield UV Gel Polish – highly pigmented shades in trend-led colours • SolarGel Polish – a lacquer-line offering up to 10 days’ wear with glossy finish • Hand, foot & body products – available in a variety of fruity and floral scents for everyday use and retailing • Kinetics Spa – a slick-looking range featuring soaks, peels & creams for hands & feet • Easy Gel – structure-building solutions in a variety of natural-looking shades • Acrylic – pro performance powders that afford smooth application with little to no filing • Acrylic Gel – a system that combines key properties from acrylic and gel systems to enhance and shape • Nail care products – featuring treatment base coats, cuticle oils, prep essentials and more • Accessories – including files, brushes, wraps and more

BRANDFOCUS

The brand was catapulted from Latvia into the UK three years ago courtesy of Roma. She started her journey in the nail business in 2011, selling Kinetics products in salons and to friends and family before launching distribution company, BellaBoo Professional Beauty. Under this umbrella, she distributes a variety of brands – and has a particular love for Kinetics. “The team wants the brand to be in as many salons as possible and goes the extra mile for every single customer,” Roma smiles. ”We believe in healthy relationships and grow with our professionals by listening to their ideas, creating solutions and new products to fit their needs. “Kinetics keeps things simple; simple to use with a clear function. Design is also important; beautiful product packaging is the brand’s passion. Hailing from northern Europe, inspiration is sought from the Nordic aesthetic and its pristine nature, so packaging is elegant and clean.” The brand’s bestsellers are its hand and body lotions, along with the Shield Gel Polish and natural nailcare treatments. Roma understands why the hand and body lotions in particular sell so well, as they are her favourite product. “They are available in 16 different fragrances and lock in moisture for 24 hours, but are not sticky, greasy or oily!” Available via the BellaBoo Professional Beauty website as well as the dedicated Kinetics Nails UK site, Roma’s commitment to her clients sees a dedicated offers page and course options. “We are a small, passionate team,” Roma comments. “We bring our spirit to our work by offering products that are beneficial to wellbeing, as well as those that bring colour to peoples’ lives.”

HOT PICK!

Embrace autumnal shades with the Affection seasonal nail colour collection, available in Shield Gel Polish and SolarGel Nail Polish formulas. Hues include the grey-violet HQ Bond and dark amber Umber Crave.

Kinetics products are available via: www.kineticsnails.co.uk /kineticsnailsuk @kineticsnailsuk www.bellabooprobeauty.co.uk /BellaBooBeautyLondon @bellabooprobeauty SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 59

TECHTOOLS

Tool

talk PAULINA ZDRADA, multi awardwinning tech & founder of The Nail Lab UK, offers an insight into her tool range & reveals how to keep your essentials in tip-top condition

he’s scooped a whopping six Scratch Stars Awards, is a salon and academy owner and has honed enviable experience as an educator. Now, Paulina Zdrada has turned her hand – and experience – to tool production to support the needs of fellow techs.

“For a number of years I have wanted to release a range of tools that I would be proud to use in my salon and put my name to,” Paulina reveals. “In early 2020, when the pandemic forced lockdowns and business closures, I could shift my focus toward the dream of releasing my own range.”

in disinfecting solution and in an autoclave and the e-file bits are varied; from carbide and diamond to stone and silicone. The e-file bits are named after flowers; from The Lotus (medium grit) to The Magnolia (fine grit). “The manual tool range has a more cosmopolitan, inclusive theme – with each tool named after a city,” Paulina reveals. Standouts are The London cuticle nippers and The Paris nail art tool, and The Nail Lab prides itself on a speedy processing time; with delivery of one to two days. “New releases are in the pipeline and we will continue to listen to our current and prospective customers – as well as our educators and ambassadors – to expand, tweak and improve The Nail Lab range as and when we feel we can produce something that helps raise the bar.”

Conscious not to rush to market with products that wouldn’t withstand the needs of a busy nail tech, Paulina spent most of 2020 designing the shape, style, look and feel of her tool range and testing prototypes. “As salons started to intermittently open, I had the opportunity to Tool care tips properly stress-test the tools in the salon environment; both in my busy Paulina shares her top tips for taking care of your tools & when Leeds salon and by enlisting some local nail techs to test and provide to replace them… feedback,” Paulina continues. “The goal was to release tools “With all tools, the general rule should be that if you can feel a loss that would enhance a nail tech’s existing skills and allow BEST SELLER! of efficacy or you’re having to change your technique due them to shine. Until I felt the tools did that, I wasn’t to the tool then it’s time to replace it. Items like diamond The London cuticle nipper prepared or happy to release them.” bits naturally degrade through use and the shelf life is a slimline tool with a 3.5mm depends on how regularly you use them but if you blade that’s designed for precision. With her partner behind The Nail Lab’s branding, drop or compromise the quality of your tool in any way Available in black and silver, the web design and graphics, Paulina has been able (such as bending the blade after being dropped) you black version is the best-selling to fully focus on the tools and has launched e-files, should replace that tool immediately rather than risk tool in The Nail Lab’s range bits, files, buffers alongside manual tools including any damage to your client’s nail or cuticle. and comes with a 12-month cuticle nippers, pushers and decoration tools. “Tools warranty. It’s priced at need to be functional and of high quality, but they “When cleaning tools, you should stick to the £37.50 inc VAT. are also an accessory,” says Paulina. “Techs are manufacturer’s advice when mixing disinfectant proud of their tools and can match them to the solution and don’t submerge tools for too long as theme of their business, and The Nail Lab offers its they could corrode. Storage is so important; store manual tools in black and silver. It’s also great for tools properly to prevent them from blunting or prospective clients to see techs using high quality being knocked and banged. tools on social media. Such tools should be easy to use, increasing accuracy, speed and safety.” “Education is one of the best tools at your disposal so before investing in tools, ensure you The Nail Lab’s manual tools are manufactured fully understand which tools to use and when.” using Japanese steel, which is durable and www.tnluk.co.uk can be resharpened. The plasma coating of /TNLacademy @thenaillab_uk the black tools means they can be submerged 60 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

: s e i r Ent d e l a e rev

NAILCOMPETITION

Check out the 67 entries to this year’s annual photographic nail competition from techs across the globe…

hile 2021 has been another tricky year for the nail sector, it’s been a delight to see so many techs embrace the opportunity to shoot a striking nail image for The Great Scratch Shoot Out competition. Creative and innovative shots have been captured by competitors from all over the world, from Finland to Canada and as far as Australia. “I was really excited to see the entries for this year’s Great Scratch Shoot Out and the talent demonstrated this year is amazing,” reveals competition organiser & Scratch’s news & features writer, Chloe Randall. “This was my first year organising The Great Scratch Shoot Out and I have been overwhelmed by the talent and creativity shown. It has been a pleasure to co-ordinate this year’s competition for the nail and beauty professionals of the world. “Techs were invited to create an artistic image and collaborate with a team of other professionals where possible to produce a result to capture the attention of the judges. With new and unique concepts explored, the competitors this year remarkably executed the artistic flair of this industry. “Thank you to everyone that entered this year’s competition. You should all be so proud of yourselves for the hard work you put in to your entries and for the dedication you continue to deliver to the industry.”

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/competitions 62 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The judging process Each entry was assessed by the panel; Scratch’s co-founder, Alex Fox; managing editor, Helena Biggs; news & features writers Chloe Randall and Emma Hobday; editorial assistant, Callie Iley and art editor, Jess Wilkie. The panel considered each entry against specific competition criteria, assessing the nail design and finish as well as the originality of the concept executed. Photographic elements were also deliberated; from the colours and lighting to the clarity and composition of the shot. Taking all this all into account, this year’s top three spots were confirmed. With the creativity the competition welcomes, every competitor is invited to request a feedback sheet, which features constructive comments from the judging panel rather than numeric scores. Alongside the top three awards, an additional accolade is awarded to the Voter’s Choice. After entry closed, the poll opened on our website for competitors, Scratch readers and clients alike to cast their vote for their favourite entry. The winner of the Voter’s Choice category along with the top three entries from the judges will receive a cash prize, certificate and opportunities within Scratch.

The winners reveal

When: Monday 4 October 2021 at 4pm GMT Where: Olympia Beau , Olympia London & live via Scratch magazine’s Instagram & Faceb k platforms. /scratchmag

@scratchmagazine

NAILCOMPETITION

Amanda Griffiths Aly a Fronce

Becki Ho s

Edit Leszkoczi

Amy Wa s

Andrew Rumford

Ge a Hi

Barbara Derewonko

Tara Ha ison

LeRina Alzahrani Catherine Lawson

Nicole e Safar-Manesh SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 63

NAILCOMPETITION

Carina Sloane

Catrina Johnson

Andrew Rumford

Je Clarke

Catherine Burns

Sophie Donaldson

Zara Wiiams

Melanie Garlick

Demi Brown Stacy Martin

Daniee Cu ie 64 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Shona McBride Päivi Kurman

NAILCOMPETITION

Steffi Fernandes

Tatjana Smirnova Lucy Aen

Toni Rodway Emily Waington

Andrew Rumford

Jodie Macfa en Je a Coins

Ive Varga Kimberly Reid

Ke y Snowba

Andrew Rumford SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 65

NAILCOMPETITION

Nicole Dowling

Sarah Mu ay

Lucy Aen

Sol López Fe aro

Toni Lambert

Key Coey

Susan Strijbosch Andrew Rumford

Eugenia Prudentino

K a Nieminen Olena Özman 66 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Lia e U in Andrew Rumford

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NAILSCENE

BRAND

WAT C H

Get to know the names behind companies & brands that are attracting attention across the nail & beauty scene CICI BODY SKINCARE Chantal Chambers began her beauty career at the age of 16, completing work experience at Scratch Nail & Beauty Salon before working her way up to owner. She and her staff members were finalists in the Scratch Stars Nail Team of the Year category 20/21 – and her success is continuing with the launch of the CiCi Body Skincare brand. Following years of planning and research to create a range of bodycare and tanning products, CiCi was born in May 2021. Lockdown had afforded Chantal time to perfect the four-piece product range, consisting of a self-tan bronzing foam, a bronzing facial mist, an aloe vera body lotion and a coffee scrub, with the businesswoman ensuring that she tested and developed every product to her own high standards. Chantal has received orders from all over the UK and humbly comments that she never thought the brand would be so popular. “It has been a challenge to manage the right level of stock to meet the demand, as previously the products were selling so fast we were struggling to get the stock quickly enough,” she reveals. “The initial financial outlay of the business was daunting, but I had faith in the products and the balance is just right.” The brand owner believes it is vital to develop high quality products which are focused on quality, effectiveness and consumer trust, and her favourite product is the bronzing foam. “The colour is gorgeous with such natural bronze tones, and the application is flawless. It’s had incredible feedback and is our best seller,” she reveals. So what does the future hold for CiCi? Just a few of Chantal’s aims include being featured on a shopping channel, getting her products into more UK salons and looking into creating her own spray tan solution. “I have big plans for the brand and I’m very excited about the future of CiCi,” she explains. www.scratchnailandbeautysalon.co.uk

/cicibody

@cici_body

MISS LUCY UK Qualified nail tech, Lucy Jefferis, launched nail decal brand, Miss Lucy UK, in early 2020, determined to excel in the industry she loves despite mental health battles making client appointments impossible. “I was unable to continue working actively in the industry as my OCD spiralled out of control,” she explains. “I found myself unable to cope with day-to-day life and had to leave behind what I loved doing most.” Lucy utilised her recovery time, adapting her artistry so she could continue to make people feel good about their nails – but not at the expense of her mental health. She learned skills such as digital illustration, social media strategies and website design before launching Miss Lucy UK, which offers digitally hand drawn illustrated nail art decals for pros and consumers. “Easy to apply, these decals add accents to already perfected nails and make each manicure and pedicure unique,” Lucy reveals. “The decal sheets come with design inspiration laid out on the sheet to make it easy to create a perfect design.” Lucy’s ultimate goal is to help others create detailed designs at a fraction of the time of hand painting a design, while not sacrificing style or beauty. Her favourite design is ‘Feelin Fruity’, which is full of vibrant colours and abstract elements, encouraging creative freedom and expression. Looking to the future, Lucy’s next project is to develop her own range of stamping plates. She feels passionate about ensuring her company is as eco-friendly as possible, therefore this manufacture will continue to take place in the UK. She also hopes to expand her business further by offering bespoke and commissioned custom decals that others can retail. www.misslucy.uk 68 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

/misslucyuk

@misslucy.uk

NAILSCENE CALLY COSMETICS A family-run nail brand with care and colour at its heart, Cally Cosmetics is co-founded by Abby Jay Barton, a talented tech who was immersed in the sector from a young age. Her mother owned a nail and beauty salon and so she kicked off her career behind the reception desk before qualifying as a nail technician at 19 years old. “The journey to where I am today has been incredible, as I have had opportunities such as working on TV sets, for magazines and doing nails for celebrities,” Abby reveals. She also runs the Abby Jay Nail Academy, at which students can hone skills in builder gel, L&P acrylic and gel polish application. The academy led to the creation of the Cally Gel Polish line in March 2021. “I wanted to develop products that I could use in my students’ kits, and products that I could confidently endorse and share with everyone,” Abby comments. “The birth of my daughter, Cally, give me the desire to chase this dream, as I wanted to teach Cally that no matter what happens in life, you can overcome it and achieve your goals.” Keeping things in the family, the brand is named after Cally and features over 50 gel polish shades and three builder gel shades alongside cuticle oil pens, nail lamps, nail files, gel mixing palettes and nail art brushes. “The ethos for Cally Gel is simple,” smiles Abby. “It’s Cally cares – our brand has been built on listening to what our customers want, and we’ve used this feedback to develop our products. We have produced high-grade professional products available to everyone in the industry, whether you are just starting out, or a well-established professional.” Customer service and relationships are the brand’s key focuses, with Abby reaching out to her customers to ask them what they would like to see next from Cally Gel. “We love that communication, as we want our customers to have a say in our development and be part of the company’s growth. “I love the Cally Gel community that has started to grow before my eyes, and the customers who have made the decision to try something new and buy our products, for them to then become our regular customers. The future involves cementing the brand as a prestigious but affordable option for customers. “Our production plans include releasing 20 to 30 more gel polish shades and extending the gel builder lines. Most of all, we want everyone to enjoy watching us develop, and to join us for the ride!” www.callycosmetics.co.uk

/Cally.cosmetics

@cally.cosmetics

GO PRETTY Nail tech Sharon Shaw had always wanted to find a quick and easy alternative to L&P acrylic that would deliver natural-looking, beautiful nails without damaging the nail plate. Her mission ended when she discovered NexGen Nails and ProgenX dipping powder, available in the UK via Go Pretty. “NexGen is an American brand that has been around for over 10 years,” explains Sharon. “It has a great price point and you can create around 60 sets of nails from every pot – and application is so easy to learn,” Sharon enthuses. “My treatment times have halved meaning my customer base has doubled and so have my profits. Now I only offer NexGen nails as a nail treatment in my salon.” Sharon was so impressed with the NexGen product line that she set up her own accredited training academy, in which she trains qualified nail techs and beginners in the NexGen method. She also heads up the Go Pretty accredited training programme, which the brand is launching nationwide, and has become the marketing and development manager for the company. Sharon loves the benefits of the NexGen product, revealing that it is water-resistant, odour free, HEMA free and boasts an extensive selection of over 300 shades. It can be used as a base before application of gel polish and allows for a super-strong nail finish. The brand has unveiled an autumnal colour collection of powders. “The shades not only look amazing when they are used individually, but each shade in the collection has been chosen to complement one other,” says Sharon. “If you don’t want a solid colour, then they are perfect to use on an accent nail or for French or ombré looks. “The Go Pretty website has been revamped, and our clients can purchase everything they need to produce the perfect set of NexGen nails, with a range of Go Pretty accessories including nail glues, wipes, files and buffers. We will continue to add to the range over the next few months,” Sharon continues. She is also very excited by the premium ProgenX range, an even a finer dipping powder with even more colours to choose from, and all compatible with the NexGen system. “At Go Pretty I am constantly looking for new training academies and brand ambassadors to help move the NexGen system forward and spread the word. The more people we educate on how amazing this product range is, the better!” www.gopretty.co.uk

/goprettybeauty

/NexgenNailsGoPretty

@goprettybeauty

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TRENDSPOT

Empower with

colour Delight & motivate clients with the story behind Salon System’s AW21 Gellux collection in collaboration with session manicurist, Karen Louise. CHLOE RANDALL gets the scoop…

t’s been a year in the making, but Salon System’s first collaborative collection has landed; serving up stunning shades and a cool story to boot. Session manicurist and Salon System expert, Karen Louise, has imposed her knowledge of nail trends to craft eight bold and inspiring nail tones with empowering names to forge the Without Limits collection for your seasonal mani/pedis. “I was working on a photo shoot back in September 2020 using Gellux when I contemplated creating shades based on trends seen in the session world,” Karen reveals. “Following a chat with Salon System, we started planning an autumn/winter 2021 collection.”

Meet the shades

We Rise By Lifting Others

Sky’s The Limit

“Karen Louise is the personification of both determination and creativity,” comments Kathy Holroyd, Salon System’s marketing director. “Her attention to detail, her hard work, and of course her stunning nail designs inspire all those who work with her. It was a natural collaboration for us and we’re overjoyed with the results.” Karen Louise

Karen brought creativity to the process with the shade and name choices, while the Salon System team managed the logistics. “The colours stemmed from what I felt I was missing in my kit bag,” Karen continues. “I chose colours that are empowering for women to wear; bold and daring hues that should be worn with confidence.

Em-Flowerment

For-Evergreen

Kallie-Blu

Love U

Own Your Power

“I also wanted the collection to feature shades that complemented all skin tones. When each colour was finalised, I researched the meaning behind each tone to determine a powerful, meaningful name for each. And I couldn’t miss an opportunity to name one after my daughter, Kallie! “Without Limits aims to inspire confidence and empowerment and affirm that with determination and creativity, our possibilities are without limitation.”

Secure In The Nude

SPICE POWER

Karen regularly tends to the nails of Spice Girl, Melanie C, who favours Gellux’s Independence shade. “She loves the colour and name and wears it on her fingernails, with Gellux in Black Onyx on her toes,” Karen reveals. “However, when I showed her the Without Limits collection, she fell in love with Secure In The Nude and has been wearing it ever since.”

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Salon System’s Gellux Without Limits collection is available via wholesalers nationwide. /salonsystem @salonsystem Follow Karen Louise:

@karenlouisenails

TNLUK.CO.UK

the

eFiles | tools | education

TNLUK

the

you provide the skill. we provide the tools.

tech range

INDUSTRYINCLUSIVITY

Welcome one &

ALL

Drag artist, Tomara Thomas. Image courtesy of Melanie @crueltyfreeclawz

Scratch’s EMMA HOBDAY explores transgender & drag beauty in the nail space & how to provide a comfortable atmosphere for clients Inclusivity is undoubtedly one of the leading topics of conversation within the beauty industry, but why does it matter so much? The British Beauty Council’s Diversity & Inclusivity Report states that inclusivity matters because all consumers should see themselves represented and valued equally, and that it makes good business sense. The report reads: “It is time for the beauty industry to shift its focus to inspiring and empowering the consumer, to promoting positive self-image and celebrating all the different forms of unique beauty. Diversity should be present across all levels of a company.”

TECH TALK

Melanie from Cruelty Free Clawz, Barton upon Humber, has worked with several drag artists and is looking forward to Season 3 of Drag Race UK, for which she created stunning nails for drag queens Elektra Fence and Vanity Milan. Her first break into the drag world was with Ellie Diamond from Season 2 of Drag Race UK, for the BBC Three YouTube special of the winner’s announcement.

“Creating nails for Ellie really pushed me creatively. I am so inspired by the drag outfits, and I spend a lot of time planning how nails can complement and complete the outfit. This then inspired me to consider offering a bespoke service and most importantly, to evaluate what my brand stands for,” says Melanie. “As such, inclusivity and diversity in nails was what spoke to me the most, and I felt it was important to feature such diversity on my social media platforms to promote that Cruelty Free Clawz is for everyone.”

This is an ongoing journey in the case of the LGBTQIA and drag community, but awareness of diverse beauty has risen owing to celebrities coming out as transgender, and with the popular BBC programme RuPaul’s Drag Race, or simply ‘Drag Race’ to fans.

Melanie was ecstatic to make nails for Elektra and Vanity. “I had been chatting with Elektra for a while about nails and have followed her since early this year. I absolutely adore the art form of drag and regularly seek out acts who inspire me creatively. I was blessed that Elektra loved my work and asked to collaborate on a set together. Elektra and Vanity are great friends, so through word of mouth, Vanity also approached me to design a set of nails for her.” The inclusive nail tech also chose drag artist Tomara Thomas as her brand ambassador for her line of press-on nails. “I had many applicants, but I chose Tomara because she’s stunning and a wonderful human being and she represented my ethos of inclusivity and diversity, so it made total sense for her to represent my brand. Plus, her creativity is on another level!” /Crueltyfreeclawz

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@crueltyfreeclawz

INDUSTRYINCLUSIVITY

PRESS-ON PROGRESS

Claire Wheeler is an ambassador for Crystal Parade and Get Nailed by Lauren McBride, and owns her own nail salon, Beauty and the Wish. She started creating bespoke press-on nails during lockdown, which were so popular that they were being purchased from all over the world.

“Press-on nails are perfect for drag queens as they can wear them while they’re in drag and then take them off when they’re not. I’m proud to have made press-on nails for the drag artist La Voix, as well as another queen who I can’t reveal, plus male clients who model,” she says.

BEAUTY FOR ALL LA based nail tech student, Myrcella Merkle, is a proud trans woman who believes that beauty and self-expression is for everyone. “Gender and sexuality aren’t gatekeepers for beauty. Anyone and everyone should be respected and treated equally in a salon setting,” she comments.

Claire was thrilled to make the nails for drag queen Ella Vaday. “Crystal Parade works closely with the costume designers for several drag queens and I was recommended to Ella to create an important set of nails for her, but I didn’t know why. It was all very secretive,” she smiles. Crystal Parade supplied the crystals for the nail look and Claire liaised with Ella to coordinate the nails to go with her outfit, with the instruction to make them extremely sparkly. “It wasn’t until the BBC Three promotional shots were released that I knew what Ella had been up to and I was delighted to see her wearing the nails I created for her. I’m so excited to see this season of Drag Race UK!”

However, her experiences with getting her nails done have often been awkward and uncomfortable. “Sometimes I felt as if the nail tech didn’t even want to be around me, let alone touch my hands. I can also gather a lot of attention and whispers, which would make anyone rather anxious in a salon,” Myrcella adds. @chellarinas

/Beautyandthewish

@myrcellamerkle

@beautyandthewish

“It is time for the beauty industry to shift its focus to inspiring and empowering the consumer, to promoting positive self-image and celebrating all the different forms of unique beauty.”

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INDUSTRYINCLUSIVITY

Nails by Mama Zee of Da House Of Phalanges

TECH TALK

Nails by Mama Zee of Da House Of Phalanges

FIGHTING FOR A SAFE SPACE

Transgender and queer nail tech, Mama Zee, visits fellow nail techs for her nail styling needs, as she wants to support the nail tech community rather than compete with it. A generous sentiment, as the businesswoman has had uncomfortable experiences in the past when getting her nails done. “I’m a 5’11”, plus size, black transgender woman with size 10.5 feet; and I’ve had to deal with people talking amongst each other questioning my gender, being charged more for having large hands (‘man hands’, as they said), and I’ve even had members of the public tell me I do not belong in the space of a nail salon, that ‘this is a place for women.’ Due to these experiences, Mama Zee has launched The Beauty Arts Academy of Diversity (BAAD); a fundraiser to provide a safe space allowing individuals to find, understand and express themselves without the fear of judgement, manipulation or discrimination. She also helps the transgender community out of homelessness and unemployment by providing the skills, education and resources needed to become a working citizen, through beauty and arts. “This project is very important to me,” the entrepreneur reveals. “I would like there to be more exposure, knowledge and understanding of the trans community; helping to cut down hate crime, discrimination and enforcing equal opportunity and human rights, while inspiring and mentally strengthening members of the community.” www.dhopnails.com uk.gofundme.com/f/Baad@dahouseofphalanges

Mama Zee’s salon, Da House of Phalanges, offers beauty treatments for the general public performed by her students, as well masterclasses in art hosted by queer and trans people. “Integrating the different worlds will hopefully form a sense of understanding for a safer society and community for all,” she smiles.

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Sam Marshall, owner of The Beauty Guru, Salford Quays, offers beauty treatments for all from her friendly environment. “The Beauty Guru is discreet, private and always sensitive to a client’s needs and requirements,” she comments. “The team respects the diversity of all its clients and values the unique contribution of all, including individuals who identify outside of the gender binary. We have a zero tolerance approach to discrimination, victimisation or harassment on the basis of a person’s gender identity. “We aim to provide a welcoming and supportive environment for people to be who they are, irrespective of their gender identity. We will also seek to provide a supportive environment for people who are considering, undergoing or who have undergone transition. “Through our related policies and procedures, The Beauty Guru team will strive to support all transgender people who receive a service from us, ensuring that we are well trained and supportive. We will seek to ensure that explicitly gendered language is not used if it is not needed and will use trans friendly pronouns.”

TRANS AWARENESS TRAINING

Sam offers Transgender & Inclusivity Awareness training alongside Hair Has No Gender founder, Keri Blue. This training helps others increase their knowledge of working with trans and non-binary clients and focuses on transgender terminology, as often language can be the first barrier for the relationship between client and practitioner. The training also helps attendees to understand how to de-gender services, how to be a trans ally and how to market inclusively. The training reveals how to make your workplace trans-friendly and inclusive, catering to practitioners who may be trans or non-binary. Supported by Habia, The Federation of Nail Professionals and the British Beauty Council, webinars are held monthly.

The next Transgender & Inclusivity Awareness webinar is 11 October at 10am and costs £45. Email sam@thebeautyguru.me to book your place.

INDUSTRYINCLUSIVITY

CLIENT POV

Ashley Bishop-Yeo is a transgender woman who enjoys getting her nails done, believing that nails can be an important source of confidence for trans women. “Nails are something that society views as very feminine, and for many trans women it can be an expression of their gender. This can boost their confidence and feminise their appearance, which can be a survival tactic, as it can help them feel less vulnerable in public,” she reveals. “Nails may seem like something quite simple, just a little accessory; but they can genuinely make that little difference to improve someone’s quality of life.” @_AshleyRegina

ashleybishopyeo

MOVING FORWARD

“Everyone has the right to beautiful nails, and gender is irrelevant,” comments Claire Wheeler. “I believe that no one should be judged or made to feel uneasy. Nails can be worn by anyone. If you can make someone feel good about themselves by making beautiful nails for them, then I feel honoured to do that for them.” All five women have simple advice to make transgender or drag clients feel welcome and comfortable in a nail and beauty space. “If a client reveals that they are transgender, never associate them with being gay, for example saying that you have gay friends. It can be very insulting, as being trans is related to gender, not sexuality,” says Mama Zee. “Transgender people can be straight, bi, gay… just like cisgender people.” (Cisgender meaning a person whose gender identity matches their sex assigned at birth). Myrcella adds, “If you’re unsure of someone’s pronouns, politely ask instead of assuming. Consider wearing nametags with your pronouns on them to show you and your staff members are open minded and supportive of the gender spectrum. Think about adding gender neutral toilets. And don’t gossip or stare.” “Like with any female-dominated space that I enter, being made to feel welcome, like I was any other woman walking into the establishment, is exactly what makes me feel relaxed,” says Ashley. “Just knowing that I can let my guard down and relax because I am a woman in a woman’s space, and I am being treated exactly the same as every other woman, is the best way to be welcomed.”

m/tommy.dor

fman

Melanie comments, “For nail artists who want to encourage a diverse clientele, think about your own brand ideals and try to provide visual representation of that. Social media is such an important tool that clients use when choosing where to go to for a service. Therefore, make sure your social media is inclusive. Don’t feel shy to shout about how welcoming you are! As a side note, I also want to applaud Scratch for writing this article and promoting inclusivity and diversity.”

Instagram.co

“I believe that no one should be judged or made to feel uneasy. Nails can be worn by anyone.” 13 Reasons Why star Tommy Dorfman came out as transgender on Instagram in a spread with TIME Magazine, and revealed she had been ‘living as a trans woman’ for the past year in July 2021. Her nail tech, Thuy Nguyen, publicly supported her by commenting that she was ‘everything,’ accompanied by several rainbow-coloured heart emojis.

“Nails are something that society views as very feminine, and for many trans women it can be an expression of their gender. This can boost their confidence and feminise their appearance.”

“Make sure you treat every nail client the same, and ensure that they feel relaxed, pampered and listened to while they are in your salon,” says Claire. “I have a small home salon so it’s very private for the client and I, but I’d like to see transgender, drag artists and anyone of any gender or sexuality feel comfortable walking into any high street salon too. Everyone is a client.” If you’re considering becoming a nail tech and you’re a trans woman, Myrcella wants you to keep your head high and respect yourself as much as you respect your clients. “Don’t ever let social barriers stop you from reaching your goals,” she urges. “Always remember your worth.” The beauty industry should be a celebration of everything that makes you, you. “Beauty is not one-dimensional,” reveals the British Beauty Council’s Diversity & Inclusivity Report. “Consumers deserve for their needs to be catered for as a matter of course, not as an ‘other’ or a separate add on.” To read the British Beauty Council’s Diversity & Inclusivity Report,, scan here

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BUSINESSMATTERS

Negotiation

STATION

Do you feel at a loss when it comes to salon leases? Surveyor & salon specialist, DENISE FERGUSON, shares her insight & reveals how her services can save you time & money…

he effects of the pandemic and consumer behaviour have left a number of properties empty on the high street, so if you’re looking to lease a space, now’s the time – but you need to know how to negotiate. Sound stressful? If you’re not too confident when it comes to leasing terms and deals, consider turning to a specialist surveyor to do the hard work for you; helping save you money while serving up guidance and advice. “Landlords are currently trying to recoup lost income from the past 18 months,” reveals Denise Ferguson, a commercial property surveyor who has 15 years’ experience and focuses on the salon sector. “It is in their interest to inflate rents and most salon owners agree to whatever rent they are offered. However, if they use a surveyor to negotiate a lease, they could save a lot of money and reduce the ability for the landlord to inflate rent.

What should salon owners be mindful of when taking out a lease? “They need to know that they have the right to negotiate the terms of the lease and that a solicitor can only draft a legally binding lease – not value the lease or negotiate the terms. Solicitors don’t offer this service, nor are they qualified to do so. Surveyors are the only people qualified to value the rental valuation of the property and by accepting what the landlord offers without first getting a valuation, you are potentially pushing the rental valuation up in your area without knowing. “Negotiations should be made when the future plans of the business are clear and the owner knows the flexibility needed to achieve “I worked with one client such plans. Most user clauses whose landlord wanted to sell are so restrictive that you the property the client was renting and end the lease. In this case, a £54k would need to specify exactly the services you can compensation deal was negotiated. The provide. This is usually seen client had no idea he was entitled to in leases within shopping anything, so my job is to understand centres where the landlord the details in the lease and the wants to limit similar offerings. relevant property laws and Most leases would automatically support the client.” prohibit you from renting out 78 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

“You would need to agree to the ability to sublet, in order for you to issue a lease (or licence) to people you are renting space to. Many salons treat renters as self-employed staff, but giving away space in your salon to another business is a property transaction and needs to be documented within a lease or licence, not a self-employed contract.”

“Salon owners are in a strong negotiating position for leases as they bring footfall to an area and build a long-lasting brand.”

“Salon owners are in a strong negotiating position for leases as they bring footfall to an area and build a long-lasting brand, so now is an ideal time to negotiate.”

SUCCESS SPOTLIGHT

chairs or treatment rooms, so it is really important to check your lease if you are doing this without permission.

What does your role involve? “I lift the stress from clients who are not experts in leases by valuing a property’s lease and acting as an expert mediator between the landlord and the tenant. I get to do what I love while salon owners can continue doing what they love; although they can be as involved (or not) in the negotiations process as they wish.

“My service begins with a valuation of the premises the tenant is leasing based on our database of property values and I produce the Heads Of Terms, which is a non-binding set of commercial terms that reflects the deal made by both parties. Once these are all agreed, the lease is drafted, and I ensure the wording within the lease reflects the needs of the salon owner. “When finalised, I review the lease with the salon owner to ensure they fully understand what they are signing up to.” What is the process for salon owners wanting your support? “Once contact is made, I schedule a 15-minute video call to discuss their needs. Should they wish to proceed, I ask for details of the premises and then issue a contract and outline the work that will be undertaken on their behalf. Once the deposit payment and signed contract are received, I liaise directly with the landlord or agent and value the property to ascertain the rental valuation and produce the Heads Of Terms before agreeing the details of the lease. These negotiations start at £1250.”

For more information, email deniseferguson@find-surveyors.co.uk / admin@find-surveyors.co.uk. /findsurveyors @find.surveyors Want to listen to Denise’s podcast? Scan here

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST COLUMNIST

Elevate your nail artistry, social media, business skills & more with tips from Clawgasmic co-founder, CHANTELLE VERMONT…

ABOUT CHANTELLE VERMONT (CHAN) Chan has been working as a nail technician for 16 years and ran her own nail studio for seven years before launching Clawgasmic with her marketeer partner, Jouvan Johnson. With a passion for nail art, Chan helps fellow techs to improve their skills, grow their business and gain confidence through the Clawgasmic community. The talented tech has completed six seasons at London Fashion Week and has grown a vast social media following owing to her dedication to uplifting fellow pros in the industry. For a full nail art video tutorial of Chan’s design and to gain access to over 210 other tutorials, check out the Clawgasmic Nail Network: www.clawgasmic.com /clawgasmic @clawgasmic

“Please don’t ever let the lack of perfection stand in the way of your dreams. Don’t let it stop you in your tracks or make you give up.” 80 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

re you ready for a fresh new month? I want to focus on something that I learned from my partner, Jouvan, early on in my career that has stuck with me. Hopefully, it’s something that will help you too – regardless of where you are on your nail journey. He said: “Consistency is more important than perfection.” I remember when I first opened my nail bar. I wanted everything to be so perfect; from the chair to the setup, the colour range, refreshments and outfits. I’d seen a stunning chair that I was desperate to get my hands on but as the days rolled by and the opening date crept up, I started feeling overwhelmed by the fact that I couldn’t afford to get everything that I wanted to make the space ‘perfect’. Fate brought about the opening of my own nail bar. I was working at a salon when I received an email from Katie Jane Hughes asking her to join her team and work at London Fashion Week. She had come across my blog and I was ecstatic to be asked. I skipped into work the next day to ask for the week off, but unfortunately my request was denied. I was the only member of staff who could perform certain treatments and while I understood the decision, I was gutted. I loved my salon job and didn’t want to leave, but was desperate to go to London Fashion Week and had no idea how to get that kind of work otherwise. It felt like the opportunity of a lifetime and I didn’t want to let it pass me by. So, I handed in my notice and went to London. I loved it; the work totally inspired me and I met some incredible people. I then went

on to do six seasons with an amazing team, however after the first London Fashion Week stint ended, I was left without a full-time job and with no income. That’s when I decided to take the plunge and start my own business. I had nothing to lose – and the full support of Jouvan. So, now you can see how my own nail bar wasn’t something I had planned and saved for, which is why I stressed about being able to make everything ‘perfect’. One evening, mid stress session, Jouvan said that now famed line ‘consistency is more important than perfection right now.’ My advice to others is that you need to keep going – and you can perfect things over time. As long as you have an inviting, clean and safe space, as well as stock to carry out treatments, some nice chairs and a nice desk, you’re good to go! You just need to take the leap and open, promote and stay consistent. Everything else can be perfected over time. Yes, there are some things about our role that need to be perfected from the offset; from nail prep to application and finish, but it doesn’t happen the first time you do it. It takes time, and if you never start and keep going, you’ll never know what you can achieve. Please don’t ever let the lack of perfection stand in the way of your dreams. Don’t let it stop you in your tracks or make you give up. Your version of perfect will come – just keep going! And perfection is bit of a myth anyway…

Love always, Chan x

STEP-BY-STEP: GOLD CROC I’m not a huge fan of Halloween nail art, so I’ve created a fashion-forward nail style this month featuring a chic gold croc tip.

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Step 1 Apply your chosen gel polish base coat and cure. Next, apply two coats of a sheer pink hue, cure and follow with a coat of no wipe top coat. Once cured, buff the nail to create a matte finish, then paint on a French-style tip using black gel paint or art gel. Cure. Step 2 Use a flat brush to apply a very thin layer of the same black gel paint or art gel over the tip. Next, using a dotting tool to create some wiggly lines in a grid-style across the tip. This will remove some of the black gel paint from some areas of the tips to create a croc-like texture. Cure once you are happy with the look.

Step 3 Apply gold chrome pigment on top of the black tip. Next, use the black gel paint or art gel and a thin detailer brush to paint some shapes in between the ‘grid’. Mix up the sizes of the black details for a more authentic croc look. Cure. Step 4 Apply gold chrome pigment over the top of the tip and shapes and apply two layers of top coat to finish, curing in between each coat.

TECH TALK

Danny from @beausbeautybox has the kindest heart and is super talented. I regularly witness him helping and supporting people in our industry and he really inspires me. The nail world is lucky to have him!

Tell me about your nail industry journey… “I was born in Plymouth but moved to Exeter two and a half years ago, just six months after I became part of the nail world. I was approaching my 30th birthday and started to realise that I didn’t want to be a retail manager anymore; I wanted to do something creative and fun. I knew the incredible Sophie Hudd from when we worked together around 12 years ago and started to follow her when she began her nail journey. I messaged her a few years ago to ask about nail courses and she informed me that she was an educator for Magpie Beauty. I undertook training and have been hooked ever since!” What do you love about being a nail technician? “So many things; from being my own boss to getting

creative, pushing boundaries and chatting to people. I’m such a people person and love chatting to clients and fellow techs.” What are your favourite looks to create and what inspires you? “I love a tortie nail and line work and I’ve been dabbling in character work. I enjoy hand painting particularly. “There are a number of techs that inspire me every day with their creativity and positive, happy attitude and incredible talent. They are Sophie Hudd, Amanda Byrne (aka the ‘Queen of acrylic’) and Magpie Beauty. I love the brand, its values and love for the industry and those within it. Sarah Shakespeare has created a brand of the future.” What advice would you give to nail artists new to the industry? “Remember that the nail techs that inspire you started out at the bottom, too, so work at your own pace and stop comparing yourself to others. Also, no question is ever silly, and you can do anything you want if you put your mind to it. The only person who can stop you achieving your goals is you, so go and get what you have worked hard for. Techs should stop tearing each other down; I will always champion you! #techssupportingtechs”

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The Client FILES HEALTHFOCUS

Cater to the specific needs of nail clients with top tips from those in-the-know…

WHAT: Excessively sweaty hands (hyperhidrosis) ABOUT H YPERHID E

xcessive swea ROSIS ting (hyperhidr osis) is surpri common and singly can affect th e whole body areas, like th or ju st certain e hands (palm ar hyperhidro It’s normal to sis). sweat when ho t or after exer excessive sw cise, but eating is reco gn isable by swea when the body ting does not need to cool down, according to the NHS. Thi s can happen obvious reason for no , because of another cond as a side effe ition or ct of certain medicines. If palmar sw eating extend s toward the fingertips, th e condition ca n be consider moderate, an ed d if sweat dr ips off the pa and reaches lm all the finger This medical tips, it is se condition ca vere. confidence-w n be ex tr emely stress recking for sufferers. It ful and of nail enhanc can also redu ement servic ce the longev es. ity

TECH TALK

us Nail Styles, Ontario, Canada, Nail tech Victoria Hunter of Victorio 30 years ago. She says that the first encountered hyperhidrosis over nail plate is absorbing the moisture issue with hyperhidrosis is that the nail plates are ‘moist’ and not from the nails and retaining it, so the good surface to sufficiently bond sufficiently dehydrated to provide a glue or adhesive need clean products. “Nail products, just like any that are exposed to and dry surfaces to bond to, but nails ments. hyperhidrosis are saturated,” she com Victoria recommends IBX to use on the cli ent. “It creates an inner barrier th at prevents the up pe r layers of the nail plate from absorbing the moist ur e, since two molecules cannot oc cupy the same spac e,” sh e says. “So, just as IBX pr events those upper layers from absorbing acetone during frequent soak offs, it prevents them from absorbing other ‘liquids’ as we ll. Within two to three treatments, yo u may start to see a change.” Victoria uses IBX on her clients with hyperhidrosis, plus her hairdresser an d barmaid clients – an yone who has frequent exposure to moisture or wa ter.

HANDY RESOURCES www.nhs.uk www.hyperhidrosisuk.org

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IBX Duo Pack £34.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

“All nail techs e need to be awar s,” of hyperhidrosi comments Lysa ils – Glover of LG Na t. lis ia The Nail Spec g hin “It is not somet but it you see often, to this be sympathetic is important to ith it. are presented w condition if you take client that it may “Explain to your their ﬁnd what suits a few months to they them aware that nails, and make or ks ee w o t every tw may need to visi ts. en tm in ntenance appo so for their mai t ha w ion stage, ask At the consultat (my of treatments, they do outside any ice a week) and client swims tw king ta tly are curren treatments they every at th . Remember for the condition !” up and don’t give nail is different,

T O P T IP S Hyperhidrosis UK recommends washing ha nds with emollient washes rather than soap-based products. The nail tech should wear gloves, an d apply alcohol sanitise r before the service to he lp any sweat evaporate.

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0333 000 2100 +44(0)20 8238 6300 info@louellabelle.co.uk www.louellabelle.co.uk

facebook.com/louellabelle @louella_belle linkedin.com/company/louella-belle

pinterest.com/louellabelleuk instagram.com/louellabelle

SALONSTYLE

How to create an Insta-worthy

e c a p s l i a n Are you keen to replicate TikTok style trends or spruce up your setup with ideas from Pinterest? Presenting a space that your clients will be keen to snap pictures of is a great way to get noticed and boost your profile as a nail tech, no matter which platform they’re shared on.

“Making a space ‘Instagrammable’ means it needs to be attractive or interesting enough for people to want to take pictures,” shares Jaz Moger, Salon System expert and owner of Paint By Jaz. “This could be the whole space or even just a feature wall. “Go all-out with tiles, lights and neon signs or keep things simple with a splash of paint and some plants. You don’t need to break the bank to make your nail space Instagrammable, you just need to have a good eye for detail, which luckily comes naturally to most nail artists.”

Stay ontrend and meet the super stylish salon owners, whose salons are taking over social media… CALLIE ILEY REPORTS

Girly garden vibes Foliage and fabulous, feminine tones of blush pink create a serene space. Plants are used in modern interior design to calm and reduce feelings of stress and anxiety; pair with accents of gold or silver and plenty of florals and don’t forget to accessorise to give your clients plenty of options for photo taking.

Grab some hanging vines or some fun photo frames and read on to find top tips from some trendy techs and discover how to create an Insta-worthy salon of your own…

REM Centenary Pedicure Chair from £2,016 + VAT www.rem.co.uk

Attract attention from the outside in with a striking window display. Scratch Stars Nail Salon of the Year 20/21, Townhouse, reveals a fun, delicate balloon arch behind the large glass frontage which allows passers-by to see inside the space.

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GET THE LOOK!

The seat of this pedi chair swivels 90-degrees to both sides for easy client access, with the height-adjustable footrest offering extra comfort. The integrated ceramic basin has a whirlpool function, pushbutton waste and a one lever tap with pull out hand spray. Available in any laminate and fabric from the REM range, with salon logo embroidered as an optional extra.

Beau Boutique, Tenterden pairs a pretty pink floral display with pink pedicure units and delicate wallpaper to create an oh-so pretty space.

Deluxe Single Nail Desk rom £800 inc VAT www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk

SALONSTYLE

Maci Blanche Nails, Gravesend, Kent

“My salon interior reflects my chatty and upbeat disposition,” comments Maci Blanche Parry of Maci Blanche Nails. “There’s always a ‘wow’ reaction as clients walk in and throughout the appointment they keep looking around the room noticing subtle details they didn’t see at first, such as my personalised candles, Louis Vuitton mirror, custom towels and nail art displays.”

Feature furniture

“I first saw the mystery ball machine on @nailz_by_dev’s account on Instagram and instantly had to have my own. Picking a design can be tthe hardest part of a nail appointment and this retro repurposed gum-ball machine decides for the client,” she enthuses. “I let my clients spin the machine to receive a small ball with a quirky nail design inside. With over 60 designs and all just as fun as each other, my client picks their budget and I get creative. I posted the machine on TikTok and I had an overwhelming response – people loved it, with 1. When I decorated my salon, I took all one video reaching 450k views! the best bits I had seen online and

Maci’s Interior Styling Tips

in stores and merged them together to create the ultimate beauty spot. I would recommend seeing what’s out there and using your own reactions to fuel you; if you say ‘wow’, the chances are that someone else will, too. 2. Do some customer research. If you’re torn between colour schemes or a plant feature or LED light – take the choice to your Instagram Story and let your followers choose – after all, they’re the ones booking to visit. 3. Be different. People like my décor because they’ve never been to a salon like it. Take the leap and do something no one else has done. That’s what takes people by surprise.

“My salon’s theme is pink with greenery. Pink makes me feel good and boosts my creativity, while the greenery brightens and freshens up the space, adding life with plants. A flower wall adds the final burst of colour it needs.” @maciblanchenails @maciblanchenails

GET THE LOOK!

Belle Voir, Huddersfield

“I would consider my salon colourful, unique, bold and one of a kind which reflects my personality,” shares Paris Evens, owner of Belle Voir. “My clients love it and I’m regularly asked where I get my accessories from.

A light, airy and welcoming area with green foliage and a bright neon sign is attractive to guests arriving at Honestly Ombré, Scratch Stars Nail & Beauty Salon of the Year 20/21.

Homesense Neon Cactus Light £5.99 inc VAT www.homesense.com

“I enjoy pairing random colours together. The colour theme of my salon is a bit of a mix but mainly features palm leaves, zebra print, mustard, green and pink. I have a feature wall on entry to my salon that includes green palm leaves. In addition, I painted my walls in gorgeous green and white shades. “The salon features some faux palm leaf plants. I would buy real ones but I’m scared that I would over water them!” Paris laughs. “I added a neon sign to my treatment room and I absolutely love it – especially when it’s dark at night.”

Feature furniture

Paris’ Interior Styling Tips

“I have four acrylic nail racks that are full of The Gel Bottle shades and NAF! Pro cuticle oils. I also 1. Your salon should have a wall rack full of represent you, so put your glitters, chromes, flakes and own twist on its décor. even more nail shades. A shelving unit features retail 2. Decorate your salon how you would like – don’t items for clients to look at get wrapped up in what when they visit the salon.” looks good online. www.bellevoir.co.uk 3. Don’t forget to make /bellevoir1 sure your salon has a @belle_voir

welcoming vibe.

Concorde Nail Table from £632 + VAT www.rem.co.uk

Ginger Ray Decorative Vines £8 inc VAT www.argos.co.uk

GET THE LOOK!

Faux Plant £25 inc VAT www.oliverbonas.com

DB Beauty, Trelewis, Wales, combines blush pink tones with glimmers of gold and all-important leafy green features.

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SALONSTYLE

Funky & fun

Dazzle clients with pops of colour to create a bright, welcoming environment that’s eye-catching for passers-by and followers on Instagram. Inject your personality into the space and brighten duller areas with fun flowerpots and bold interior accessories. Add gadgets for clients to ponder over; it all makes great content for their social platforms! Tigerlilly Nails in Wimborne shows off a striking rainbow backdrop to its nail area, complemented with clean white nail stations and a fun gadget; a nail art printer!

Nails by Coco, Charminster, Bournemouth

“I think it’s important for salons to feature an element of their owner’s personality,” reveals Kirsti Ware of Nails By Coco. “My salon reflects my personality as well as my hair colour. I have bright pink hair and I always like to do things a little differently. “When decorating an Instagrammable salon, you should remember to be yourself and put your own stamp on it. People like to see something unique; I think they find it inspiring to see something different, something that stands out and the best way to do that is not just by following trends. “I got my inspiration from living rooms on Pinterest. I chose the colours and design because I knew it would stand out, it adds warmth and colour to a salon and makes it quite cosy and feminine.”

TKMaxx Flamingo Lamp £16.99 inc VAT www.tkmaxx.com

B&M Sausage Dog Planter £5 inc VAT www.bmstores.co.uk

TOP TIP!

REM Clover Beauty Stool £126 + VAT www.rem.co.uk

Create a statement wall to make your salon stand out and act as the perfect backdrop for client nailfies.

“The pictures I chose to display reflect the whole salon, so I have some with nails on, some with eyes and lashes on, and positive, empowering quotes.” @nailsby_coco_

Faith James creates a space that truly pops with contrasting colours and a fun feature wall of prints.

Style file

GET THE LOOK!

FemaleInspiring Focus On Yourself Print £8 inc VAT www.femaleinspiring.com 86 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

A fun photo wall at Ama Salon, London, not only makes for a decorative display but can show off your nail styling skills and give clients something to look at during their manicure service.

Goldtone Elephant Ornament £2.50 inc VAT www.primark.com

imix £54.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Faith James of Faith James Nails in Bristol, shares her top interior styling tips…

1. Stick to a colour scheme and vibe that suits you and your personality. That way you’ll always be interested while you’re decorating and adding new things. 2. Keep up with recent trends and create little nooks in your salon that are the perfect spot for photos. 3. Find something that you think people will be happy to share on their social media. For me, it’s my neon sign as I find clients like to take photos of their nails in front of it and upload it to their stories. This is great for me as my sign says my business name so other people will know exactly where they’ve been.

SALONSTYLE

Cool & Chic

Sophistication can be oh-so worthy of snaps for social media; but execute your design in such a way that it looks luxurious, inviting and indulgent. If you like clean lines, ooze decadence with additions of gold and rose gold to prevent the space from looking too clinical. Aid comfort with cushions and a touch of a rich or muted tone.

Coco’s, Rothwell, Northamptonshire

“My salon reflects me in many ways. It’s girly but professional – I’m a perfectionist with an edgy side that likes nice things and I feel that comes across at Coco’s,” explains salon owner, Lee-Ann Moss. “My clients love Coco’s and comment on how I’ve made the most of the space I have and how it really gives the ‘wow’ factor,” she smiles. “It’s always such lovely positive feedback, which means the world to me.

Inside the stylish Townhouse, Fitzrovia – Scratch Stars Nail Salon of the Year 20/21.

“My colour scheme uses my favourite colours which are incorporated throughout, from my walls to my flowers to my gold polish displays,” Lee-Ann explains. “My chairs are all green with gold legs and all of my soft furnishings are pink. All of my frames containing my amazing quirky nail themed prints are also gold and pink, hung on a green wall. “I display my nail colours on two gold display shelves, either side of my Coco’s sign. On each row I have hidden plastic to create another level for extra storage. They all coordinate with my display folder so I can easily find the clients chosen colour.” /cocosrothwell @cocos_rothwell

GET THE LOOK!

1. 1.

Lee-Anne’s Top Interior Styling Tips

1. Keep your salon clean and clutter free, only display what you need to. It’s important to maximise your space, but don’t over fill it. 2. Pick a colour scheme of three and stick to it. I recommend using two colours and one metal/wood. Don’t forget to add some living plants and soft furnishings – clients love this. 3. Check Instagram to see what’s modern and popular. Pick out your favourite looks or items and take ideas but don’t forget to make it your own.

Cool grey is complemented by touches of chrome and sleek white units at Zoe Brown Nail Salon, Edinburgh.

Grey & Gold Glitterbels Salon Chair £119.99 inc VAT www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk REM Florence Nail Table from £543 + VAT www.rem.co.uk

REM Plaza Pedicure Chair from £1933 + VAT www.rem.co.uk

Cult Furniture Lottie Forest Green Velvet Chair £179 inc VAT www.cultfurniture.com

B&M Gold Butterfly Ornament £3 inc VAT www.bmstores.co.uk

Primark Green And Gold Base Votive Candle £3.50 inc VAT www.primark.com

S-PRO Swing Top Manicure Table £260 + VAT www.salon-services.com SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 87

SALONSTYLE Paint by Jaz, St Leonards-on-Sea, East Sussex

“Lighting needs to be a big consideration when designing or renovating a nail space. Natural light is great, but you don’t want to work in direct sunlight as this will cause premature curing of gel products.

Glasgow’s Bellini Nails utilises the gorgeous natural brick wall by adding a chic white frame, complemented by double nail desks in muted tones.

“Making the space relaxing and welcoming for the client is also essential. Make use of different textures and materials but don’t clutter. Plants are an easy way to transform a space and studies have proven that indoor plants improve concentration and productivity while reducing stress levels and boosting your mood – perfect for intricate manicure appointments!

GET THE LOOK!

“My branding colours are pale pink, dark grey and black so when I created my space, I stuck to that colour scheme. However, it is best to stick to three or four main colours, so I chose green and gold accents, too. I source most of my interior inspiration from Pinterest and hotels or restaurants I’ve visited. I love minimalism and like to keep everything simple and sophisticated but still fun. It’s good to have a mix.” /paintbyjaz

Princess Double Nail Desk £650 inc VAT www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk

@paintbyjaz

Nest String Pocket Shelving in Blush £126 inc VAT www.nest.co.uk

Very Fae Table Lamp £25 inc VAT www.very.co.uk

Dark wood tones create a cosy feel at London’s Coco Nail Bar, with smooth lines and soft lighting making for a calming space.

Love Beauty Gatley, Cheadle, utilised the support of REM to create this decadent space with sumptuous pedi chairs and calming wood tones.

S-PRO Sophie Gas Lift Stool £55 + VAT www.salon-services.com

GET THE LOOK!

REM Olympia Nail Varnish Display £353 + VAT www.rem.co.uk 88 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

A HELPING HAND

REM offers a salon planning service, REM Design, which can support the creation of your dream salon space. The team offers advice on products, colours and layout to help you make the most of your budget. “Our team of designers understands that today’s working environments have to be responsive to the changing needs of the contemporary workplace,” comments Trevor Lingard, REM’s commercial director. “With this in mind the designs we offer are inspirational and tailormade to reflect the image, reputation and personality of each business.” To find out more, visit www.rem.co.uk

Mindful SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

ma ers

Mental health & wellbeing coach, DAVE HEFFERNAN, offers profound pointers to help you achieve a positive mindset

mentioned in last month’s column that I had taken the plunge and completed a hypnotherapy qualification, which I’d wanted to do for a long time. Here, I want to explain what hypnotherapy is and some of the ways it can help anyone suffering with mental health issues such as stress or anxiety.

What is hypnotherapy?

ABOUT DAVE HEFFERNAN Dave Heffernan is a coach, speaker and mental health guru. He works with corporates and individuals to create awareness, end stigma and educate on areas surrounding mental health and wellness. Dave has launched programmes to support mental health in the workplace and to create positive, forward-thinking environments in which employees can enjoy working. Born in Salford, Dave dealt with extraordinary life issues including death, grief, abuse, homelessness and violence; but this didn’t hold him back. In fact, it created the momentum and passion that Dave spreads today. As an expert in mental health, Dave has moved from the raw, real-life issues that he’s faced, to helping other people face theirs.

How I can help I offer a range of services, from informal phone calls to regular, structured coaching and hypnotherapy sessions. If you’d like to find out more about me, visit my website www.daveheffernan.com or feel free to call me for a chat on 07824 513120. Check out Dave’s Facebook group, which offers FREE weekly hypnosis and coaching sessions tackling issues such as anxiety, stress, confidence and self-esteem.

www.daveheffernan.com /daveheffernanltd

@daveheffernanltd

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Let’s get one thing straight – hypnosis isn’t just what you see on stage, convincing people to do silly things while they’re asleep. Hypnotherapy is a form of therapy that uses guided relaxation, concentration and a focus of attention to take a person into a heightened state of awareness or trance. While it can seem off-putting to think of yourself being hypnotised, it’s important to understand that you are completely in control throughout any session and able to bring yourself out of the trance at any point. By slowing your blood pressure and breathing, hypnosis helps to generate an overall sense of wellbeing and allows you to feel calmer and at ease. The sessions allow you to focus your mind more deeply on issues and can be helpful for changing or relaxing certain behaviours that cause them.

The benefits There are a huge number of complaints that hypnotherapy can ease. Let’s take a look at some of them... 1. Anxiety If your anxiety is caused by a phobia, hypnotherapy can be an amazing tool to help you ease your worries and move past the issue. It’s usually more effective with anxieties that are caused by health conditions, rather than from a general anxiety disorder. 2. Issues with sleeping Hypnotherapy can help with issues such as insomnia or sleepwalking. During the session, participants are encouraged to tackle the negative thoughts or habits associated with their sleep to help them fall asleep more easily in future. Even if you don’t suffer from any severe sleeping issues but just wish to enjoy a better quality of sleep, hypnotherapy can help you understand what you need to fall into a deep sleep and feel more refreshed when awake.

3. Weight loss Although it can be more difficult to understand the effects of hypnotherapy on weight loss, studies have found links in the way that it can change your relationship with food. In combination with exercise especially, hypnotherapy can be a really helpful tool when it comes to losing weight and keeping it off in future. 4. Kicking bad habits One of the better-known uses for hypnotherapy is to help kick habits such as smoking, biting fingernails and overspending. Working one-on-one with a hypnotherapist can help you understand the underlying issues which are causing the habit to persist and help you to change your lifestyle. Often, bad habits can be replaced with more healthy actions such as going for a walk or chewing gum, although the aim is ultimately to train your mind to stop craving the habit entirely. 5. Chronic pain While it should be understood that hypnosis cannot cure the cause of chronic pain, it can be a very useful tool for learning how to manage it. Studies have found that 75% of people with illnesses such as arthritis have found significant pain relief by using hypnosis, simply by helping them to manage the fear and anxiety associated with it and deflecting attention away from it. 6. Depression Depression is a mental health condition which causes people to feel low for an extended period of time, making it difficult to carry out straightforward day-to-day tasks and enjoy life as usual. Similarly to anxiety, hypnosis can help understand the triggers that cause a person’s mental state to worsen and provide them with the tools they need to try and break the circle of negative habits. While hypnosis may not be for everyone, it is a form of treatment that is gaining more traction, especially after the effects that we’ve seen from the pandemic on mental health. If you’re wondering if it may be something that could help you, please do not hesitate to get in touch to find out more about the services I offer and how we could work together.

Find us on stand C6!

SPIRIT&STYLE

DESTINY

in your hands Palm reader, James Divine, reveals the meanings behind the lines of your palms & how your hand shape denotes connections & characteristics EMMA HOBDAY REPORTS

alm reading, also known as chiromancy or palmistry, has been gaining popularity as a knock-on of the pandemic, with more people than ever turning to the technique to provide clues about their future.

navigate big decisions like moving their family across the world, deciding to fight for their marriage or small decisions like starting to open their heart up to new possibilities – which can lead to bigger decisions and realisations.”

It is thought that the practice originated in ancient India and then spread throughout China, Tibet, Persia, Egypt and Greece. Famed Greek philosopher, Aristotle, referenced palm reading 2,500 years ago, in his work De Historia Animalium (History of Animals) in which he wrote, ‘lines are not written into the human hand without reason.’

So, are you ready to uncover more about yourself? Firstly, determine whether you have a fire, earth, air or water hand. Let James enlighten you…

In agreement is James Divine, who founded The Divine Hand Palmistry in 2002 to transform and improve the perception and practice of palmistry. He has been studying the craft for over 30 years and is the creator of the Divine Hand method, which blends modern observations of body language with traditional metaphysics – a branch of philosophy that studies identity, change, time, and possibility. Furthermore, James is a successful palmistry teacher, presents workshops across his native US and is writing his first book. “Palm reading is ideal if you want to discover more about yourself; what makes you tick, why you do things, and to uncover more and see the real you underneath. It’s OK – we will put a fresh coat of sparkles on top after,” laughs James. “This understanding has helped my clients do so much in their lives and it has helped them 92 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Fire Hand

The shape: A firm hand with a long palm, shorter fingers and deep lines. Shorter fingers provide the trait of being more connected with the tangible world and those with them tend to be more aware of physical surroundings. The trait: Fire is all about transformation and change. People with fire hands want to switch things up and are always itching to keep things interesting. They drive us to grow, move, and get motivated.

Earth Hand

The shape: A plump or fleshy hand with a short, square palm and short fingers. The trait: Has anyone ever told you ‘You’re so grounded?’ This is an earth quality, with other identifiers including being practical, reliable and logical. You succeed by applying yourself systematically, working hard and planning ahead.

SPIRIT&STYLE

Now, discover what the lines on your palms mean... “The lines on the palm do not predict things; instead they reveal patterns of behaviour, which you have the power to change,” says James. “There is nothing inherently negative in your palm. There is nothing that predicts poverty, death, spinsterhood, depression, or doom,” James explains. “Although these can be possibilities, palmistry helps us navigate around these things and uses your own body to understand you, so it is very accurate and helpful when done well.”

The heart line

Air Hand

The shape: A thin, bony hand with square palms and long spindly fingers, with long fingers being a trait for heightened sensitivity. The trait: Rational, intellectually curious and calm – people with air hands help us keep calm and carry on. You seek to understand life and are motivated by finding answers.

Water Hand

The shape: A soft hand with long palms and long fingers – often idealised as ‘piano-playing hands.’ Like air hands, long fingers can mean increased sensitivity. The trait: People with water hands will have been told they are sensitive, empathetic and strongly in touch with their emotions. You feel things more deeply than most, and have a strong need to understand hidden motivations and life’s mysteries.

TRIED & TESTED

James Divine offered Scratch news & features writer, Emma Hobday, a palm reading via Zoom. Declaring that it was ‘truly insightful’, discover more about Emma’s experience by reading her blog on the Scratch website, here

www.thedivinehand.com /DivineHand

@DivineHandJim

At the very top of the palm and under the fingers is the horizontal heart line, which is your pattern of emotional expression. On the right hand, it indicates how you get along with people in your public life: work, school, and out and about in public. On the left hand it indicates how you express your emotions in your personal life, with family, friends, and romantic partners. “If your heart line is straight, you tend to be more of a pragmatic person emotionally, and if it is curved, you tend to let the emotions flow and wear your heart on your sleeve,” James explains.

The head line Across the centre of the palm is the head line, which starts above the thumb and travels out towards the pinky side of the palm (the ‘percussive side’ of the hand). This indicates your pattern of mental expression; how you think and process ideas. If you have a long head line, you love to research things and are slow and methodical in your decision making, whereas if you have a short head line you are more likely to make quick and efficient decisions.

The life line The life line starts with the head line between the thumb and index finger, and curves around the palm to the wrist. “The length of your life line does not indicate length of life,” James says. Rather, the life line indicates the pattern of life purpose. Short life line folks are ‘young souls’ who love a fresh start, without holding any grudges or carrying any ‘baggage.’ “If you have a short life line, you can let things go,” laughs James. “You enjoy the freedom of being yourself and love to live life to the full.” In contrast, those with long life lines are ‘old souls’ who tend to be wise beyond their years. “They may feel responsible for things that are not theirs, but they also have an amazing ability to connect with others or transform things in their lives. They often have lots of things that they have gone through and healed from.” So, this crease is used to gauge your life journey, with the depth of the line suggesting the richness of your life experience.

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PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

Strength &

Do you seek the strength of L&P with the flexibility of gel for your nail enhancement services? Take a peek at AcryGel…

flex

cryGel UK‘s namesake nail system offers nail pros the strength and durability of acrylic with the clarity and flexibility of UV gel to create long-lasting, natural-looking enhancements.

The brand is founded by Michelle Porter who has been immersed in the beauty, hairdressing and nail sectors for almost 30 years. She built up a distribution and training company before moving into product development and works alongside her daughter, Chantelle, who specialises in the training side of the business.

“I used to distribute a high end soak off gel brand but wanted “AcryGel Michelle Porter to develop my own nail offers the best system,” Michelle reveals. “I came across the of both worlds; the ‘hybrid’ acrylic and flexibility and clarity gel concept and an extended set of nails can take around one of UV gel which captures got really excited; so hour,” Chantelle reveals. “To create a tip & started researching overlay French, I prime the nails and pick up a the attention of gel users, and developing small amount of UV AcryGel in White on the brush Chantelle Porter and the strength and formulations before before dipping into the White Acrylic Strengthening durability adored by launching in 2005. It became a fourth nail Powder and rotating in a figure of eight. This will system and was very unique, but I found that allow the powder to absorb into the UV gel to get the acrylic users.” many techs were keeping loyal to their L&P and strengthening benefit.” gel systems – until we showed them the benefits of AcryGel through demos. Its popularity has grown since then With the bead, paint on the white French tip and cure for three and the system has continued to evolve.” minutes when satisfied. Self-levelling, the system applies in thin layers and can be infilled. Once the white tip has cured, pick The system is easy to apply with no odour. By taking the up your chosen pink shade of UV AcryGel with the brush and dip system’s UV Gel and adding (not mixing) the AcryGel Acrylic into the corresponding Acrylic Strengthening Powder, circulating Strengthening Powder, the resulting product is strong enough to in figures of eight as before. Offload onto the nail, pushing down use as an overlay (over tips) or with a sculpting form. “AcryGel towards the cuticle area and working up towards the free edge. offers the best of both worlds; the flexibility and clarity of UV gel Cure when satisfied and repeat for a second layer of pink. Refine which captures the attention of gel users, and the strength and the shape with a white block and file and cleanse the nail using durability adored by acrylic users,” Michelle continues. “You do Prep & Cleanse before applying the glossy Sealer. Cure to finish. not need a base or gloss gel; you can sculpt with it and create a tip & overlay enhancement.” The AcryGel system features a Primer Pen, Prep & Cleanse, Sealer, X-Strength Primer, Chantelle owns a salon and finds AcryGel Brush, Flat Gel Brush and lamp. that her clients all adore AcryGel and The powders and gels are available in find it long-lasting. The shades in the 28g and 50g sizes. range afford a natural-looking finish Watch a live demo of AcryGel with and are perfect for French or ombré, Michelle and Chantelle on Scratch TV. and AcryGel can offer the ideal enhancement base for a gel polish design on top. Training for beginners and conversion courses are available. Find out more via www.acrygel.co.uk “A short French on natural nails can /AcryGelOfficial @acrygel_official take between 30 and 40 minutes, and 94 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

WWW.MAGNETICNAILS.UK

Normandy Green

Mont Blanc Blue

Foulard Brown

Rouge Red

Provence Pink

Champagne Yellow

GELPOLISH COLLECTION

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BEAUTY IN

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Keep on top of need-to-know business news & heed accounting advice from beauty industry specialist, RIA-JAINE LINCOLN

IS THERE SPACE FOR MINIMALISM IN A BEAUTY BUSINESS? ABOUT RIA-JAINE Ria-Jaine is an accounts expert with personal taxation as her specialist area and the beauty industry her primary focus. A qualified nail tech and owner of The Beauty Accountant, Ria worked in the beauty industry on a part-time basis but noticed that many people in the sector were missing vital business knowledge. Many did not know about the UK income tax system and obligations imposed by HMRC and so Ria now uses her specialist knowledge, experience and skills to offer support and guidance on setting up and maintaining a compliant business. After completing her AET teaching qualification, Ria created accredited tax and accounting workshops for the beauty industry to help individuals get the best from all areas of their business while managing their books and tax obligations.

recently watched a documentary called The Minimalists: Less Is Now and it made me think about what would happen if we applied minimalism to our businesses.

This led me to research minimalism, and I pored over articles, podcasts, books and YouTube. Being cashflow focused, my brain translated everything I read about minimalism to budgeting and control to help it make sense. I learned that minimalism isn’t a new concept at all and has been something that has been explored for many years, but isn’t very hot right now on my social feeds. Everywhere I look, I am inspired by businesses owners or coaches pushing for growth and empire building. However, since researching minimalism, my algorithm has changed and my phone and tablet now show me stories of how business owners successfully apply minimalism to their daily life. I am so intrigued by the concept. Paul Jarvis, who believes in growing better not bigger businesses, defines it so well: ‘Minimalism is a mindset rather than a

blind purge. If something is useful or pleasurable, you keep it. If it’s not, then you consider scrapping it.’ The concept that less is more can be applied to every single part of our lives, but what if we also applied this to business? Here are five reasons why minimalism in business is something worth exploring:

It makes you focus on making conscious choices for the best interest of the business, instead of keeping up with other businesses. This is great for cashflow and control too. If something you have invested in either financially or with time doesn’t benefit the business or the team, drop it.

You are intentional with the direction of the business and get rid of all the unnecessary stuff, which could be software, subscriptions, poor performing treatments, time spent on social media or stock. Some of the unnecessary things might seem necessary because others have it, but what is your business telling you and what are your clients telling you? Is posting or scrolling on Instagram making a difference

“As a business advisor, I work with businesses of varying size and stature and regardless of the end goal, minimalism can be applied to any aspect of our life. Simply by saying ‘no’ to things that do not serve you is practicing minimalism.” 96 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST to your business or is this something that can be scheduled or passed on to a team member to free up your own time? Could you replace just 15-30 minutes a day scrolling through social media with scrolling through your profit and loss report or spending time doing something for you?

You streamline everything. You start to see more white space in your calendar; the time that you get to keep for yourself to just be. You have a system in your business that works for you, your lifestyle and for your target market. You have money and you have time freedom.

You are focused, with no distractions, and you know how many clients are needed for you to have the income that you desire and lifestyle that you want.

You know and are comfortable with your limits and boundaries. We all go through stages of craving the next milestone or reward, a bigger premises, a bigger house or new car. I have been checking out @theminimalists on Twitter and an old Tweet showed that they had set a limit on their podcast audience as they found their ‘enough’; 6000 people was enough for them to pay for studio space, wages and equipment without the need to start cluttering the podcast episodes with ads. The thread was simply affirming that enough is enough when you decide it is enough. The podcast was closed and audience kept private even though the demand was there. As a business advisor, I work with businesses of varying size and stature and regardless of the end goal, minimalism can be applied to any aspect of our life. Simply by saying ‘no’ to things that do not serve you is practicing minimalism. A previous article I wrote focused on the next stage for businesses when reaching capacity. The assumed next step is to expand, employ staff, rent a larger premises and that is great but if you have found your enough then that’s great too. The Beauty Accountant offers energiser sessions and strategy planning days for business owners. I can’t wait to incorporate some of my learnings since studying minimalism to help empower all types of business owner. If you are busy building an empire, I offer

“Could you replace just 15-30 minutes a day scrolling through social media with scrolling through your profit and loss report or spending time doing something for you?” advisory services to help monitor and manage growth and profits for a scalable business, and if you are a business owner that is searching for your ‘enough’, there are regular sessions and reviews to help you achieve it. If you are completely new to it all, there are also free discovery calls that can be booked.

www.riajaineaccounts.co.uk E: info@riajaineaccounts.co.uk /thebeautyaccountantuk @thebeautyaccountant_uk

Special offer!

Use code TBAScratch to get 50% OFF your first business advisory session. Visit www.instagram.com/ thebeautyaccountant_uk to learn more.

Join my Facebook group: Salon and beauty therapist UK tax group

Friendly disclaimer: The information contained in this article is for guidance and information purposes only. It should not be relied upon as full and complete accounting, tax or legal advice. For specific advice relevant to your own situation please speak to Ria-Jaine MAAT or another professional directly. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 97

INDUSTRYINITIATIVE

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PAYING IT

Business beauty owner, Laura O’Mahony, unveils her inspiring Share Your Self Care initiative that supports her community through pampering EMMA HOBDAY REPORTS

aura O’Mahony had always loved beauty therapy, but was busy carving out a career in the events industry in Manchester, London and LA, when life took a turn. Her mum became ill, and Laura felt she co no longer cope with the pressure and stress involved with events.

“I’d toyed with the idea of an evening course in beauty therapy as my mum had trained in beauty therapy when I was little and managed various make-up counters very successfully,” Laura reveals. “I had been raised amongst make-up and taught good skincare practices; when my mum gave me a facial during my GCSEs, I learned how the power of touch and a pamper session could elevate a mood.” With that, she enrolled in a beauty therapy course at Suffolk New College and completed an NVQ Level 3 in Beauty Therapy. Next on Laura’s agenda was to set up her own business. “I bought a little red van and carried out mobile beauty treatments at peoples’ houses and at events. I called it ‘The Pampervan!’” she enthuses. “My first big gig was at Camp Bestival and Bestival in 2017, offering gel manicures, pedicures, facials and massage to festival-goers.” When she bought her first house in 2019, she converted its purpose-built wooden cabin in the garden into ‘The Pamper Cabin’, carrying out treatments around family commitments. But for this kind and caring entrepreneur, this wasn’t quite enough. She wanted to do something to give back to the community that she loved so much, having always wanted an aspect of her business to be not-for-profit. “The Covid-19 restrictions have emphasised a sense of community and need for kindness. One of my closest friends lost her mum suddenly in early

2021 and I offered to give her a massage and a facial, as it’s one of the only ways I know how to help. It inspired me to offer it to others too,” says Laura. “Sometimes there are no words, but there is always the power of touch.” Laura set up the Share Your Self Care campaign, through which people can donate in order to collectively treat a person in need of pampering. She used sunflowers in the logo, as they were her friend’s mum’s favourite flowers and have happy, positive connotations. Share Your Self Care encourages people to donate to treat a stranger, rather than nominating someone specific; however, Laura welcomes nominations for those deserving. She is offering one treatment a month, but hopes to increase this over time. With the help of Share Your Self Care, Laura has been able to treat people who are facing tough life events, such as divorce, bereavement and life-limiting illnesses. Donations cover Laura’s treatment materials, and she offers the beneficiary onehour treatment of the nominee’s choice, such as a luxury gel manicure, pedicure, facial or full body massage. “I offer my time for free, but as it grows funds will cover some of my time in order to offer it to more people. I may also look at the possibility of working with other therapists who wish to donate their time to the cause,” Laura reveals. “Beauty therapy is beauty plus therapy. I have always been inspired to make people feel better by providing treatments, through chatting, touching and hopefully sending someone away with some fabulous nails to make them smile.”

www.pampervanbeauty.com /pampervanbeauty @pampercabin To donate to Share Your Self Care,, scan here

98 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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ONE IN A MILLION - AUTUMN COLLEC TION 2021

SOCIALSCENE

Take a peek behind-the-scenes of Scratch’s online platforms & see what’s piquing the interest of fellow pros… @_mejzi

S T A T S HAPPY SHOPPERS

The UK is home to the world’s third largest eCommerce market in the world. At the end of 2020, roughly 31.3% of retail transactions were conducted online. Research by Royal Mail found that most online shopping was conducted on smartphones throughout the day, with use peaking on laptops in the evening. The study also found that 22% of consumers are likely to purchase something after seeing it on social media, particularly young shoppers and women.

Most loved...

These gorgeous gemstone nails by Jaz Moger, aka @paintbyjaz, scooped so much love when we posted them on Instagram last month. The talented tech created them using Salon System Gellux products. Scoot over to our website to check out the step-by-step!

#THROWBACK

BEAUTY BOOM OR BUST?

Prestige beauty sales in the UK increased by 11% in the first half of 2021, according to The NPD Group. The total prestige beauty market was valued at £693 million between January 2021 and the end of June 2021, compared to the same period in 2020, however sales are still down on 2019. Fragrance, then skincare, are seeing the biggest growth in sales, while make-up is the most challenged of the prestige beauty categories, with value sales declining 6% in the first half of 2021 compared to the same period in 2020. Brands have responded with new techniques using digital as a gateway to experimentation and offering virtual ‘try-on’ applications.

Check out the front cover of Scratch 10 years ago; back in October 2011. It features a striking close-up and decadent nails. Nails: Joanna Webb Products: Ciaté and Calgel Make up: Caroline Barnes Photographer: Jason Ell

OH GOODY! Team Scratch packed a whopping 250 goody bags to take to the Olympia Beauty event 3-4 October, each featuring 25 products from incredible nail and beauty brands. That’s over 6,250 products packed! The goody bags will be gifted to Olympia Beauty attendees when they subscribe to Scratch magazine or renew an existing subscription. For tickets to Olympia Beauty, visit www.olympiabeauty.co.uk

Shooting for success

Nail fans with keen eyes took to the Scratch website in droves to vote for their favourite image in Scratch’s annual photographic nail competition, The Great Scratch Shoot Out. Over 6,500 votes were cast! The Voter’s Choice winner will be announced at Olympia Beauty on Monday 4 October and live on Scratch’s social media platforms. /scratchmag

@scratchmagazine

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The Theannual annualprint printsubscription subscriptionto tothe theUK’s UK’sleading leadingnail nail magazine magazineisisavailable availableto toNails, Nails,Tanning Tanning&&Make-Up Make-Up insurance insurancecustomers customersfor forFREE FREE(worth (worth£39). £39).For Forall allother other membership membershipcategories categorieswho whoare arehuge hugefans fansof ofScratch Scratch magazine magazinejust justlike likewe weare, are,you youare areable ableto toget getyour your hands handson onthis thisindustry industryleading leadingmagazine magazineby bygetting gettingaa printed printedcopy copyof ofthe themagazine magazineat atan anABT ABTdiscounted discounted rate rateof ofjust just£19.50 £19.50which whichisishalf halfprice! price!(RRP (RRP£39). £39).When When taking takingout outyour yourinsurance insuranceit’s it’savailable availableto toadd addvery very easily easilyat atour ourcheckout! checkout!

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NA I L s g n i p Clip SCRATCHMEDIA

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Team Scratch has spotted ‘Evil Eye’ nails taking over Instagram. The ancient symbol of protection is striking with its varying shades of blue.

Lizzo talk

Instagram.com/

ivalasnails

erierinailz

Eri Ishizu is the talent behind Lizzo’s extra-long, ultra-glam nails for her Rumors music video. After revealing the Swarovski embellished cover nails took two and a half hours to create, the tech also created another white set for the video to co-ordinate, with featured artist and nail queen, Cardi B.

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CHLOE RANDALL surfs the ‘net to uncover the hottest nail topics & tales on social media sites & get the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves

LAYER UP!

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TRY IT OUT!

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KVD Beauty has launched TikTok branded effect filter, Epic Kiss. Celebrating the launch of Epic Kiss Nourishing Vegan Butter Lipstick, TikTok users can experiment, play and create exciting content with the Epic Kiss filter through an augmented reality (AR) overlay which creates a superimposed, oversized 3D lip with an option for different lipstick shades.

DISNEY-HANDS

Disneyland, California has opened a nature-inspired spa, featuring four manicure/pedicure chairs for the ultimate relaxation experience. It’s an ideal solution for those suffering from tired feet after exploring the fun-filled resort.

Instagram.com/disneyland

Instagra

@fashion_nailart on TikTok was challenged by its followers to paint nails 5,400 times – with astounding results. We’re not sure if it will catch on, but made for a fun experiment!

SCRATCHMEDIA

Instagram.co

LOVE SWEET LOVE

Celebrity manicurist, Stephanie Staunton, created line nail artistry for Little Mix star, Leigh-Anne Pinnock, for the shoot for the band’s music video, Love Sweet Love. The manicure was created using Bio Sculpture Gel and Lecenté products.

ope

Canadian rapper, Drake, paid a visit to Townhouse nail bar in Harrods, London for a relaxing manicure – and a cocktail!

.com/vicknh

Singer and social media sensation, Chase Hudson (aka LILHUDDY), took to Instagram to tell his 11.7 million followers about a collaboration with beauty brand, Glamnetic. Notorious for his unique nail designs, he has released 10 packs of striking nail stickers. “I’m so proud of this collaboration and to see my first ever nail line,” he wrote on Instagram. Instagram “I’m even more excited to see how everyone mixes & matches the sets.”

Hold on, we’re geeting a mani

Instagram

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‘

LIL’ NAIL LOVIN’

Instagram

ails

Hollywood nail stylist, Tom Bachik, was flown to Venice to create a French-style mani for regular client, Jennifer Lopez. This singer and actress was glammed up for a Dolce & Gabbana show and Tom used his Tom Bachik Tweezerman Ultimate Nail Care Kit and Bio Seaweed Gel.

Instagram

.com/tomba

chik

GONDOLAS & GABBANA

RED CARPET READY

Kelly Colley of @lavishnailsss created a gorgeous black sparkly manicure for BBC Radio 1 drivetime presenter, Vick Hope, ready for her to walk the red carpet at the GQ Awards. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 105

NAILDESIGNS

Bavarian designs and autumnal tones make for an on-theme and on-trend nail design by @katrinamarieee.

Nail art lover, @liminal_soliloquy, pays homage to Oktoberfest’s origin country with this design by @marienails.

This bold nail design courtesy of @lovebeautygatley pairs fun festival-loving shades with full-fingernail artistry.

Fingernails in Get in the spirit of Oktoberfest with pretzels, beer & laced-up lederhosen on pinkies to celebrate the German folk festival

Pretzels and plaid combine in this chic nod to Oktoberfest by nail artist, @tines_momente.

This fun themed nail artistry by @beckis.beauty is perfect to show off while you Prost!

Intricate artistry and glittering gold additions make for a playful nail design by @vesnanails.

A client’s nails are matched to her Bavarian costume courtesy of German-based nail technician, @yournailsormine.

Cheers! @nailsbyamatista takes tones from the German flag as a base and adds a fun frothy beer design.

@lacquer_liefde ditches the traditional Oktoberfest shades to provide a pretty pink design twist.

To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 106 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

ONLINE

P U ! N Y G A SI D TO

Nailympia ®

SECOND EDITION

Enter the world’s biggest nail competition from the comfort of your salon! Your favourite nail competition is back with its second edition of Nailympia Online! Register today and you can submit your entries until 01.12.21!

Simply go to:

NAILYMPIA.COM 13 fantastic competition categories to choose from including:

Use the code SCRATCH10

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In association with @nailympiacompetitions

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