Scuba Diver ANZ #36 by scubadivermag

SEX ON THE REEF

FEEL THE FORCE

THE BALI EXPERIENCE

THE ANNUAL MASS CORAL SPAWNING ON THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

BYRON CONROY JUMPS ON BOARD BLUE FORCE ONE IN THE MALDIVES

DON SILCOCK PROVIDES AN OVERVIEW OF THE DIVING OPTIONS ON BALI

NICOLAS REMY EXPLAINS WHY THIS HOME-GROWN HOTSPOT SHOULD NOT BE OVERLOOKED THE PHILIPPINES

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EDITOR’S NOTE VACCINE PASSPORTS ON THEIR WAY?

Times are changing, and to keep the magazine free, we’re asking dive stores to cover their own postage costs. If you enjoy reading the magazine, think about helping out your centre with a small donation to help cover their costs.

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Mark Evans Email: mark.evans@scubadivermag.com

DESIGN & PRODUCTION MANAGER Matt Griffiths Email: matt@scubadivermag.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Adrian Stacey Editor-at-Large (Australia and New Zealand) Tel: +61 422 611 238 Email: adrian@scubadivermag.com Don Silcock Senior Travel Editor www.indopacificimages.com

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Adrian Stacey, Editor-at-Large (Australia and New Zealand)

AUSTRALIA/NEW ZEALAND AND SOUTHEAST ASIA TEAM

Martyn Guess, Byron Conroy, Deborah Dickson-Smith, Nicolas Remy

Ross Arnold Email: ross.arnold@scubadivermag.com

As the vaccine rollout gathers pace around the world, it is becoming clear that proof of vaccination - probably in the form of a vaccine passport - will be a prerequisite for international travel. While some people are against such proposals, I think it is important to remember that many vaccinations are already required or recommended to visit certain countries - yellow fever, hepatitis A and B, typhoid, cholera and rabies, to name a few. So, if proof of vaccination is needed to get borders open again, then I for one am all for it. As many countries are now tentatively beginning to open up, we have decided to dedicate the September issue of all three of our titles - Scuba Diver, Scuba Diver ANZ and Scuba Diver Destinations - to showcasing the best dive shops, dive resorts and liveaboards from around the world. We will, of course, have plenty of great destination features as well, but this is the perfect opportunity for organisations that wish to let the world know they are open and eager to welcome back their guests. This issue of the magazine is once again packed with plenty of great features from these shores and further afield. Deborah Dickson-Smith reports on the mass coral spawning event that takes place on the Great Barrier Reef each year. Nicolas Remy explains why shore diving at one of Sydney’s many hotspots is so good and that this underrated destination is not to be missed. Our senior travel editor, Don Silcock, gives us a comprehensive guide to diving delights on offer around Bali. We have a great feature about diving in luxury around the Maldives as Byron Conroy gets spoiled onboard the Blue Force Fleet vessel, Blue Force One. Dr Richard Smith writes about some of his favourite places to visit in the diving mecca that is the Philippines.

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SEX ON THE REEF

FEEL THE FORCE

THE BALI EXPERIENCE

THE ANNUAL MASS CORAL SPAWNING ON THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

BYRON CONROY JUMPS ON BOARD BLUE FORCE ONE IN THE MALDIVES

DON SILCOCK PROVIDES AN OVERVIEW OF THE DIVING OPTIONS ON BALI

NICOLAS REMY EXPLAINS WHY THIS HOME-GROWN HOTSPOT SHOULD NOT BE OVERLOOKED THE PHILIPPINES

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FEATURES...

8 News

18 Australia

Khaled bin Sultan Living Oceans Foundation partners with NASA, protection for manta rays in Tahiti, the launch of the PADI AWARE Foundation, phase two of Dive Munda’s Solomon Islands’ scholarship programme, another award for Bunaken Oasis, and the first resort in the Maldives bans open burning of trash.

16 Medical Q&A

The experts at Divers Alert Network Asia-Pacific discuss feeling tired after diving, and someone suffering from sore toes.

66 Conservation Corner

Conservation projects in and around Australia, New Zealand and SE Asia - this issue, the incredible work of the Coral Gardeners on the islands of Tahiti.

Every year in November, one of nature’s greatest spectacles takes place the annual mass coral spawning event on the Great Barrier Reef. It is an incredible sight to experience, and now, more than ever, its significance is profound, as Deborah Dickson-Smith explains.

26 Indonesia

Scuba Diver Senior Travel Editor Don Silcock presents an overview of the diving opportunities around the ‘Island of the Gods’ - Bali.

32 Underwater Photography

Following his last article on working the subject, Martyn Guess provides some insight into, and also tips on, photographing diving seabirds and fast-moving subjects in order to get the best shots.

36 Divers Alert Network Asia-Pacific

The DAN medical experts extol the virtues of remaining cool, calm and collected when you are diving, in this instance surviving being lost at sea.

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CONTENTS

...CONTINUED

GEAR GUIDE

38 Wreck Hunter

58 Test Extra

Underwater archaeology expert Mike Haigh continues his look at using photomosaics in wreck site investigations.

40 Australia

Access to great local diving was a must when Nicolas and Lena Remy relocated to Australia. They wanted to dive every weekend and have access to a diversity of sites and marine life, so they ended up in Sydney. Four years later, he is still enamoured with the local shore-diving.

46 The Maldives

Byron Conroy heads to the Maldives in search of the mythical ‘wall of sharks’ - would his week on the luxury Blue Force One liveaboard a success?

Scuba Diver Editor-in-Chief Mark Evans rates and reviews the Apeks Luna Mini dive light, which would make a great back-up torch, or the ideal light for night dives in the tropics.

60 What’s New

Scuba Diver Editor-in-Chief Mark Evans looks at new products hitting the dive market, including the Aqualung i330R dive computer, the QYSEA Fifish V6 underwater drone, and the Suunto EON Steel Black dive computer.

52 The Philippines

The Philippines offers a wealth of diving opportunities, and Dr Richard Smith shares some of his favourites - Anilao, Puerto Galera, Malapascua, and Dumaguete.

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Each month, we bring together the latest industry news from the Asia-Pacific region, as well as all over our water planet. To find out the most up-to-date news and views, check out the website or follow us on our various social media (@scubadivermag) www.scubadivermag.com.au

KHALED BIN SULTAN

LIVING OCEANS FOUNDATION PARTNERS WITH NASA

extensive high-resolution data about reefs to expand NASA’s coral mapping capabilities. This partnership will allow NASA to create maps of all the coral reefs in the world and track how reefs are changing through time, giving scientists around the world the insight needed to address the coral reef crisis. The Space Act Agreement with the Khaled bin Sultan Living Oceans Foundation gives NASA access to data from the Foundation’s Global Reef Expedition, one of the largest surveys of corals ever completed. The partnership will use this massive dataset in conjunction with the NeMO-Net neural network and the Pleiades supercomputer at Ames, which powers NeMO-Net. The NeMO-Net project aims to map and track the health of the world’s coral reefs to give us the best look beneath the waves we’ve ever had. Using a revolutionary new remote sensing instrument, NASA’s FluidCam, capable of seeing beneath ocean waves without distortion, coral reefs can be surveyed at the centimetre scale in 3D from drones and aircraft. NeMO-Net uses data from this next-generation instrument to classify corals around the world. With this combination of tools and information, NeMO-Net’s maps will

oral reefs are in crisis. Corals are an ancient life form and, because of the reefs that they build, the survival of countless other organisms is predicated on healthy coral ecosystems. But coral reefs are dying at an alarming rate. The world has lost more than half of its reefs over the past 40 years. The remainder could be lost by the end of the century if reef conservation efforts don’t score some swift victories. To conserve anything, first you need to know where it is, and how much you have left. This has been difficult to track for coral reefs as they are hidden beneath the waves, but that is changing as scientists develop new technologies to map coral reefs from space. To meet this challenge, the Khaled bin Sultan Living Oceans Foundation (KSLOF) is partnering with NASA’s Ames Research Centre in California’s Silicon Valley to use the Foundation’s

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become more accurate, giving researchers and environmental managers better information about what’s happening to coral reefs and how to protect them at a time when they are experiencing unprecedented anthropogenic pressures. To assemble the dataset that will train the NeMO-Net neural network, the Living Oceans Foundation spent ten years mapping and surveying coral reefs on the Global Reef Expedition. This research mission circumnavigated the globe in an effort to address the coral reef crisis. It involved hundreds of scientists, who spent tens of thousands of hours underwater surveying coral reefs in the Atlantic, Pacific, and Indian Oceans as well as the Red Sea. In addition to scientific reports on the state of the reefs, the Expedition resulted in the creation of 65,000 square kilometres of high-resolution coral reef habitat maps —or about one-fifth of the world’s coral reefs. Through neural networks and machine learning, NASA is automating a process that took a team of KSLOF’s scientists years to do on their own. But all of this automation requires massive amounts of training data, data NASA did not have, but KSLOF collected on the Global Reef Expedition. NASA has acquired some of the data they needed with the help of tens of thousands of citizen scientists around the world playing the NeMO-Net game, an interactive citizen-science video game in which players identify and classify corals from 3D imagery of the reefs. The global dataset KSLOF is providing to the agency, including all of the coral reef habitat maps created on the Global Reef Expedition, will validate and ground-truth training data they need to accurately map coral reefs from satellite imagery on a global scale. Alexandra Dempsey, the Director of Science Management at KSLOF, said: “These maps will be incredibly valuable for coral reef conservation. It is really hard to develop effective conservation strategies such as marine protected areas if you don’t know what you’re conserving. These maps fill that gap and have the potential to benefit coral reef ecosystems, and the people who depend upon them, for generations to come.” www.livingoceansfoundation.org

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PROTECTION FOR MANTA RAYS IN TAHITI

Conrad Bora Bora Nui’s new initiative aims to protect manta rays and their habitat in the islands of Tahiti. As the tourism landscape evolves in the wake of the pandemic, people’s mindsets are shifting as they reassess the way they travel once it is safe to do so again. Hilton, a leading global hospitality company, recognises that travellers are now seeking more meaningful experiences, preferring to immerse themselves in the destination while connecting with the local community and its environment. Through an exclusive partnership with the renowned non-profit organization Manta Trust, Conrad Bora Bora Nui helps to create a greater appreciation of manta rays and the protection their habitat in Bora Bora. Guests are invited on a snorkel or scuba dive tour to discover and learn about the gentle ocean giants with the resident marine biologist in accordance with the Manta Trust Code of Conduct. Guests are welcome to identify manta rays in the lagoon with guidance from the marine biologist and participate in engaging education programmes at the resort. www.conradhotels3.hilton.com

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Although the Solomon Island borders remain closed for now, Dive Munda continue to focus on doing good for our oceans, reefs, communities, youth and sharks, and you can still donate Phase two of their youth training sponsorship programme kicked off on 1 July, and will see a group of 12 local girls who were certified under phase one to start off the Munda plastic recycling project, and 15 local youths who were certified under phase one to spearhead the coral restoration and rehabilitation project. Donations will also help with monthly beach and underwater clean-up dives. www.clickndonate.com/empower-solomon-islands-youth-goal-20-000/

EURO-DIVERS MALDIVES CONDUCT TURTLE RELEASE ON KAGI Kagi Maldives Spa Island has celebrated the first turtle hatching of the season with the release of 123 sea turtles. Guests, associates, and team members from Euro-Divers Maldives gathered on the beach to witness nature’s wonderful event as the resort’s ‘green’ team took the lead to carefully guide 123 hawksbill hatchlings to their first journey to the ocean on 15 June 2021 – one day before the WWF’s World Sea Turtle Day. www.euro-divers.com

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BUNAKEN OASIS WINS BIG IN GLOBAL TOURISM AWARDS 2021

Bunaken Oasis, the award-winning destination on Bunaken Island, North Sulawesi, was recognised as Indonesia’s Best Boutique Resort by Global Tourism Awards 2021. For a resort that opened just four years ago, winning Indonesia’s Best Boutique Resort is a massive accolade. With the Global Tourism Awards being recognised globally as one of the travel industry’s most-prestigious hallmarks of quality, owners Elaine and Simon Wallace are thrilled to have won such a high-profile award. “We are delighted to announce that the Global Tourism Awards have voted us the ‘Best Boutique Resort in Indonesia’ 2021. Given the number of amazing resorts in Indonesia, this is an accolade of which we are hugely proud! “We have also been voted ‘Indonesia’s Leading Dive Resort’ by the World Travel Awards for the past three years, so now to have Bunaken Oasis recognised by the Global Tourism Awards solely as a resort is really exciting, as it demonstrates the all-round excellence which awaits divers and non-divers alike. “We’re especially pleased for our team, who’ve worked tirelessly throughout the pandemic to ensure that Oasis is a safe and luxurious retreat which is fully ready to welcome guests as soon as they are able to travel.” Bunaken Oasis Dive and Spa Resort is situated on Liang Beach, on the edge of Bunaken’s National Marine Park, which is an underwater paradise for divers and snorkellers alike. Bunaken Oasis has redefined diving within Indonesia and helped to put Bunaken on the map as an internationally recognised dive destination. The luxurious resort prides itself on being an ecotourism destination, with a zero single use plastic policy, and is proud of the extensive infrastructure designed to minimise any impact on the environment. Offering 12 sumptuous cottages, all with spectacular ocean views and a long list of amenities, including beautiful traditionally handcrafted four-poster beds and organic shower products, as well as the latest in room tablets and coffee makers, it is no surprise that Bunaken Oasis has been recognised for its luxury and world-class service. www.bunakenoasis.com

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INTRODUCING PADI AWARE FOUNDATION Katie Thompson, Global Director, Corporate Social Responsibility, PADI Worldwide, introduces the PADI AWARE Foundation – a non-profit public charity to achieve critical ocean conservation goals. PADI is committed to investing in our ocean, the future of the dive industry and in our dive communities around the world. In the face of rising threats to our ocean and the growing role divers can play in helping to restore a balanced ocean ecosystem, a natural and critical next step in the PADI organization’s Save the Ocean mission is the formation of the PADI AWARE Foundation. For more than 30 years, PADI and Project AWARE have worked together to address precarious issues affecting ocean health, building a truly unique voice for the protection of the underwater world. Transformed from an environmental ethic created by PADI in 1989, to a separate non-profit organization with global reach and a passionate community dedicated to protecting our ocean, Project AWARE has stayed at the forefront of emerging ocean issues and pressing global challenges. Building on the legacy of the alliance, the evolved partnership will leverage PADI’s strengthened focus on conservation and global reach to achieve shared goals and objectives aimed at harnessing the power of the global PADI dive community to restore balance between humanity and

the ocean. By putting the weight of the PADI brand behind the charity, PADI and PADI AWARE Foundation can set ambitious critical ocean conservation goals on an unprecedented scale. On Earth Day, PADI and PADI AWARE Foundation announced their joint blueprint for ocean conservation. To achieve the goals established under the blueprint, the PADI organization will engage and activate the growing global community of PADI Torchbearers to provide human resources that participate broadly and locally in ocean-saving initiatives. To further elevate and support PADI’s Mission, PADI AWARE Foundation will expand and build new conservation programmes, activist movements, public outreach, courses and partnerships that address key ocean threats such as marine debris, climate change, marine habitat loss and vulnerable species protection across the planet. Learn more at padi.com/aware

MAALHOS BECOMES FIRST MALDIVIAN ISLAND TO STOP OPEN BURNING OF WASTE Soneva, the world-leading resort operator, announced the official launch of its Namoona Baa initiative with the unveiling of the ‘eco-centro’ complex on the island of Maalhos, Maldives.Namoona Baa sees the islands of Maalhos, Dharavandhoo, and Kihaadhoo in the Baa Atoll pledging to end the open burning of island waste, in a radical shift towards eco-friendly waste management. The pledge was made by the Presidents of Maalhos, Dharavandhoo, and Kihaadhoo island councils, during a workshop on waste held at Soneva Fushi in January 2019. To end the practice of the open burning of waste, which poses a health and environmental hazard and damages tourism, each island will create an ‘eco-centro’ waste-towealth centre that will sort, recycle and reuse island waste. The eco-centro model was pioneered at Soneva Fushi, which is located close to Maalhos. At the resort, food and organic waste, metals, and bottles are chipped, ground down or composted, and turned into things of economic value, such as concrete building blocks and fertilizer. Plastic waste is either recycled or used to create useful new objects. Soneva has pledged funds from its Soneva Save our Seas programme to support the creation of the eco-centros on Maalhos, Dharavandhoo, and Kihaadhoo. During the January workshop, the island council presidents helped forge a new partnership between their islands, Soneva Fushi, and Common

Seas, an international NGO dedicated to reducing marine plastic pollution. Dealing with waste, particularly plastic, is a major issue for every island community in the Maldives. Plastic bottles and bags tend to litter streets, island jungle and beaches, while waste is routinely burned in toxic, open bonfires. Under the Namoona Baa Initiative, the Maalhos model will be expanded to neighbouring Dharavandhoo and Kihaadhoo, with eco-centro waste-to-wealth centres established on both islands later this year. www.soneva.com

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Introducing PADI AWARE Foundation™ A Non-profit public charity driving local action for global ocean conservation. Together with PADI, we are a truly unique voice for the underwater world, engaging divers and people everywhere to take conservation actions that heal and protect the ocean planet both above and below the surface.

padi.com/aware

Ask DAN DAN medical specialists and researchers answer your dive medicine questions FEELING TIRED AFTER DIVING

Q: I understand that feeling tired after a dive may be a symptom of decompression sickness, but I almost always feel tired after diving. Should I be concerned? A: The expectation of normal (i.e., non-pathological) tiredness following diving varies from person to person. Factors such as individual fitness, thermal stress, gear constriction, diving skill, work completed during the dive, psychological stress (positive or negative) and distraction can all affect how tired one feels. While these variables make it difficult to quantify tiredness as a symptom of decompression sickness (DCS), unusual fatigue has long been documented in association with other symptoms of DCS. The mechanism behind fatigue as a symptom of DCS remains elusive, although it is possibly a response to a cascade of physiological events taking place in various tissues. It could be through direct stimulation of nervous tissues or indirectly through the stimulation of other tissues. It is possible that the attention currently being directed toward identifying biochemical markers of DCS will help resolve the questions. In the meantime, it is reasonable to say that DCS represents a complex, multifocal response to a decompression injury. Unusual or ‘undue fatigue’ (that in excess of normal fatigue for a given individual and diving exposure) is a recognised symptom.

SORE TOES: DCI OR FIN FOOT?

Q: After some recent dives, some of my toes were really sore. Within a few hours they looked bruised and were extremely painful; I could hardly walk. It took several days for the bruising and pain to go away. Could this have been decompression illness (DCI)? A: This was unlikely to have been DCI due to the location and the symptoms you described. DCI rash-type symptoms are not known to isolate in specific digits. Your presentation suggests a condition known as reactive hyperaemia, which may result after a period of reduced blood flow to an area of the body. When circulation is fully restored following constriction, the blood vessels dilate and may become engorged with blood. This can cause discolouration ranging from dark red to the bruised appearance you described as well as intense pain. If fin straps are too tight or a diver forces his foot into the foot pocket too firmly, a steady mechanical pressure on the blood vessels may result. This is colloquially known as ‘fin foot.’ Colder water may also contribute to the constriction of the blood vessels, further reducing blood flow to the area. Usually this condition does not require medical intervention other than pain management. Staying off the affected foot as much as possible, elevating it and applying warm compresses will typically improve comfort. Ensure proper fit of your booties and fins, and don’t over-tighten heel straps. DANAP.org

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Sex on the Reef GREAT BARRIER REEF’S big day out

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Every year in November, one of nature’s greatest spectacles takes place - the annual mass coral spawning event on the Great Barrier Reef. It is an incredible sight to experience, and now, more than ever, its significance is profound, as Deborah Dickson-Smith explains

PHOTOGRAPHY: INDIVIDUALLY CREDITED

Having said that, here on the Agincourt Reef, in the last four years, since the last major bleaching events in 2016 and 2017, the corals have been growing beautifully, the reef is regenerating very well, but we are worried about the long-term health of the Reef WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU

ight now, the world’s eyes are on the Great Barrier Reef – the best known and best-loved coral reef in the world. While we worry about the impact of climate change on the reef’s extraordinary diversity, scientists and tour operators look to this annual event as an indication of the Reef’s resilience. Recently, UNESCO fired a warning shot to the Australian Government, declaring the Reef endangered, which makes this year’s event all the more significant. I interviewed a few Great Barrier Reef custodians about the annual coral spawning event and what it means to them. Master Reef Guides Glen Burns (Quicksilver), Sam Gray (Reef Magic), Eric Fisher (Reef Magic) and Pablo Cogollos (Sunlover) provide some inspiring insights into this event. What is it like to witness the spawning for the first time? Sam: The first time you witness coral spawning you really have no idea what to expect. You may have heard about these underwater snowstorms and watched a documentary, but nothing will prepare you for sitting at depth, in the darkness and silence waiting with anticipation. You patiently watch the coral and see the build of the buds, getting ready to release. Then slowly the world around you is in a flurry as spawning begins. Bundles of red, orange and yellow slowly floating their way up to the surface, some of the corals look like they are smoking as they release their gametes, and you notice that the same species are spawning at the same time while others wait patiently for their turn as they reproduce on different days to prevent the creation of hybrids. It is a magical and otherworldly experience! Glen: To witness it for the first time is really very exciting. I still get excited, and I’ve seen it many, many times, but the first time I saw it was back in the early 1980s, and it was here off the coast of Port Douglas. I was in the water at about 9pm and I remember coming around the corner, and here were some tiny pink balls, floating up from the coral. Look at that. It’s just like I’d seen in an earlier documentary, and I thought ‘I’m actually getting to witness the coral spawning’, it was really very exciting. After about 20 minutes, I came around the next corner and the ocean was just full of coral spawn. No matter where you shone your torch, you lit up millions of these tiny pink spheres, all slowly floating to the surface. It was really quite enchanting and very, very exciting. Pablo: Witnessing the coral spawning event for the first time is a humbling experience. Seeing the corals that you care about in the most-important night of their year, a night that is important for their survival, is an incredible experience. And it’s not just the coral spawning that makes this night exciting. It’s all the marine life that aggregates for a feeding frenzy. The whole experience makes you feel really small and at the same time a part of it. When you start to see this cloud of pink and yellow eggs and sperm all around you - it looks like upside down snow as they rise to the surface! It is the highlight of the year for me.

Corals ready to be transplanted

In the years that you have witnessed this annual event, have you noticed any changes? Glen: It’s never quite the same twice. There are variables in the system. It happens over several nights, usually three or four nights after the full moon, and it depends which night you are there. if you’re lucky enough to be there on all nights, you might find that some of the corals are spawning on that first night. The branching corals might go first, or the plates. The next night you might witness the boulder corals spawning, which look quite different, as the gametes come off like smoke, so it looks like these massive boulder calls are steaming, underneath the water, a spectacular sight. We are now able to measure the success of each year’s spawning event with greater accuracy. We have divers out here. We have researchers from James Cook University, University of Technology in Sydney and the Institute of Marine Science (AIMS). We have the Master Reef Guide network. It’s very exciting for biologists. We all love to get out there and watch the coral spawning. Pablo: After the coral bleaching events of 2016 and 2017, we saw that the stressed corals did not spawn and that year the event was not as good, but since then, the event has been building and in 2019, we witnessed one of the best events I’ve ever seen on the Reef.

Coral polyp

Ready for the coral spawning

20 © Tourism and Events Queensland

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OSPREY REEF

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The adventures are endless on the Great Barrier Reef – experience one of the world’s greatest curiosities, the annual coral spawning; dive with dwarf minke whales; meet sharks in the dark or soak up the stunning scenery on a luxury expedition. However you choose to do it, there’s a reef adventure waiting for you in the tropics.

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Even snorkellers can take part

Eric: The annual mass synchronised coral spawning on the Great Barrier Reef is a good example of a significant biological event co-ordinated by several environmental rhythms operating over several temporal cycles. This event happens every year on coral reefs and although there are environmental cues, they most likely entrain an internal biological clock within the coral polyp. This could explain the temporal differences between species on spawning nights. Even if corals have been stressed through mass bleaching, they still have the capability to spawn. For example, last year in the lagoon near Reef Magic Cruises Marine World, 67 per cent of the corals bleached. However, over 70 per cent of corals, both hard and soft, spawned on the fourth and the fifth night following the full moon. At present there is no real measure of how many egg bundles are produced on a spawning night but measuring the settlement rate of new coral recruits is an indication of how good the event has been. How significant is this event as a measurement of the Great Barrier Reef’s health? Eric: The mass broadcast spawning event is a significant measure of a reef’s health for two broad reasons. Firstly, for the event to happen you need healthy coral and the more Corals ready to spawn

Top, above and right © Great Barrier Reef Foundation

healthy corals you have, the greater number of offspring are produced. Like all reproductive events this is the creation of new life and inherently super important, but this ability of a healthy reef to deliver new coral recruits to another healthy reef through natural hydrodynamic processes is what makes this spectacular event an awesome piece of arsenal in coral reef resilience. Glen: This is how the reefs are constantly regenerating themselves. We are all very worried about the future of the Great Barrier Reef. Having said that, here on the Agincourt Reef, in the last four years, since the last major bleaching events in 2016 and 2017, the corals have been growing beautifully, the reef is regenerating very well, but we are worried about the long-term health of the Reef. One of the ways that the Reef is going to be able to maintain itself is with this annual coral spawning event. It’s crucial. One of the things that I’m particularly interested to see is what happens on the coral restoration project we’ve been managing at Agincourt Reef, where we’ve been nurturing heat tolerant corals. We know they are heat tolerant corals because the parent colonies had survived the bleaching events back in 2016 and 2017. During last year’s coral spawning, one of the most significant things for me was the fact that these corals that we had nurtured spawned at the same time as the rest of the reef. This is fantastic. This bodes so well. The big question is, will this year’s new larvae show the same heat tolerance, the same resilience that the parent colonies show? This is what we’re hoping for. This will make a huge difference in how the reef is able to regenerate after these bleaching events, which we expect to see more of in the future. Happy divers out on the Reef

What citizen science projects can divers participate in to help monitor the Reef’s health? Sam: There are a variety of projects which you can involve yourself in, including the Eye on the Reef Monitoring through the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority (GBRMPA) identifying Key Indicator Species. That is species on the reef that play a role in indicating the health of the environment and conditions on the reef, as well as iconic species. Glen: With the Eye on the Reef App you can take a photograph, write a comment and send it straight to GBRMPA. The more information we can gather, from as many sources as possible, over the length of the Great Barrier Reef, the better the overall picture we have of the event, and the Reef’s health. Pablo: Eye on The Reef is the most important citizen science project out there, as it enables an enormous network of contributors to provide data to GBRMPA from the entire length and breadth of the Reef. Various projects are taking place on the Reef

CORAL LARVAL RESTORATION PROJECT

Led by Southern Cross University (SCU), with scientists from James Cook University (JCU) and the University of Technology Sydney (UTS) in 2019, the Coral Larval Restoration Project aims to restore coral populations and re-establish breeding corals on degraded reefs. Project leader Professor Peter Harrison of SCU aims to increase the scale of coral restoration using innovative techniques. This includes the co-culturing of coral larvae with microscopic zooxanthellae, their algal partners (known as symbionts) and main energy source, in the wild to boost their one-in-a-million chance of survival before being settled on affected reef areas. Corals normally acquire zooxanthellae after they settle. A collaboration with local tourism operators including Aroona Boat Charters and Reef Magic Cruises has been instrumental in enabling this logistical feat. Reef Magic’s Eric Fisher heads up Reef Magic’s GBR Biology team, which has been involved in the project. He said: “The Coral Larval Restoration concept was to capture millions of coral eggs and sperm produced by mass coral spawning event, rear coral larvae for five to seven days

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Transplanting coral pieces

WITNESSING THE CORAL SPAWNING EVENT

A number of Great Barrier Reef tour operators operate night dives and liveaboard trips for divers that are keen to witness this incredible event. Single night trips for the coral spawning depart Cairns over the predicted period, leaving late afternoon and returning after midnight. Dive liveaboards including Pro Dive Cairns, Mike Ball Dive Expeditions and Divers Den operate over the predicted dates, however these are not dedicated coral spawning trips. Plans can vary depending on weather and time, so if you are interested in a liveaboard experience enquire directly with the company for their plans around the annual event. n • Pro Dive Cairns | Prodivecairns.com • Mike Ball Dive Expeditions | Mikeball.com • Divers Den | Diversden.com.au

Even if corals have been stressed through mass bleaching, they still have the capability to spawn and then perform a targeted release of larvae onto heavily degraded sections of the Reef. “In 2019, an exciting large field experiment was conducted on the sundeck at the Marine World Pontoon to provide coral larvae with a boost to help them survive these early parts of their life cycle. Marine World became the largest Reef Lab in a tourism operation where large tanks containing 3.2 million larvae were given 1 billion microalgae, which acted like battery packs of extra energy to ensure their survival. Some of the algae were thermally-tolerant species with the aim to help the coral larvae be resilient to warming ocean temperatures. “After a week the mature larvae were released onto areas of reef at the precise time they are ready to settle on a hard stable substrate and develop into a baby coral. In 2018 this was carried out under large mesh settlement sheets at Vlasoff Cay. In 2019, a variety of delivery methods were trialled on impacted sections of Moore Reef which included settlement sheets, divers and specialised robots. This project led to a very impressive mass release of 28 million coral larvae at once! All these sites will be regularly monitored in the future to evaluate the success of these trials.” www.gbrbiology.com

hroughout the year, around the coast of Australia, several significant marine life events take place. The events, which attract thousands of participants, are usually centred around one thing: survival. Whether that’s aggregating to breed, feed or get it on. From the world’s largest aggregation of giant cuttlefish in Whyalla to the world’s biggest orgy on the Great Barrier Reef, here are our top four marine events in Australia.

1. RED CRAB MIGRATION (PLUS BONUS WHALESHARKS)

Where: Christmas Island, Australia’s Indian Ocean Territories When: November to December Every year on Christmas Island, at the onset of the wet season, approximately 60 million red crabs leave their forest homes and migrate to the shoreline to mate and spawn. This huge migration all but shuts the entire island down, with many roads closed, and an elaborate system of crab tunnels (and even a bridge) diverting crabs away from the main roads. In the morning and late afternoon around the last quarter of the moon, the egg-laden females descend from the terraces to the shoreline. They pack into shaded areas above the waterline at densities of up to 100 per square metre in places. The females usually release their eggs into the sea toward dawn, around the turn of the high tide. BONUS: The release of several billion crablings attracts migrating whalesharks, who visit here each year between November and April for a feast.

2. GIANT CUTTLEFISH AGGREGATION

Where: Whyalla, Eyre Peninsula, South Australia When: May to August These ‘chameleons of the sea’ are one of the largest species of cuttlefish found, reaching up to 60cm in length and weighing up to 5kg. The migration by these creatures to these waters is for the sole purpose of spawning. Every year they come in their tens of thousands to mate and reproduce, in the process creating an amazing spectacle of cunning games, predation, underwater light shows and colourful kaleidoscopic displays. It is believed they congregate here in such large numbers as it is the only area in the vicinity with rocky ledges suitable to lay eggs.

3. SPIDER CRAB AGGREGATION

Where: Port Phillip Bay, Victoria When: May or June Unsurprisingly, crabs without fully formed shells are vulnerable to predators. So instead of facing that danger alone, they tend to moult together in a sheltered area. In the case of the crabs of Victoria’s Port Phillip Bay, the moulting animals don’t just huddle up - they pile up sometimes tendeep. In this vulnerable state, the crabs attract a feeding frenzy. According to Parks Victoria’s chief conservation scientist Dr Mark Norman: “Usually within a couple of hours of shedding they’re just firm enough to be able to start walking. But while they’re at their most vulnerable, it is a feeding frenzy for predators like cormorants, Pacific gulls, octopus and stingrays.” Only when the full moon approaches, does it become clear whether to head to Rye, Blairgowrie, St Leonards or Queenscliff to witness this natural phenomenon.

4. CORAL SPAWNING ON THE GBR

Where: The Great Barrier Reef When: Mid to late-November One of the most-spectacular events to occur on the Great Barrier Reef is the annual synchronised spawning of corals. In simple terms, coral spawning is the reef having sex. Coral polyps simultaneously release egg and sperm bundles that they’ve spent months growing into the ocean for external fertilisation.This happens in a mass event annually often affectionately named the world’s largest orgasm on the world’s largest organism. During this time the Great Barrier Reef is transformed into an underwater spectacle resembling the inside of a snow globe. n To witness any of these incredible Big Days Out, contact the team at Diveplanit Travel for more information. Diveplanit.com Email: enquire@diveplanit.com Phone: 1800 607 913

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Scuba Diver Senior Travel Editor Don Silcock presents an overview of the diving opportunities around the ‘Island of the Gods’ PHOTOGRAPHS BY DON SILCOCK

he late Indian statesman Jawaharlal Nehru once famously described it as the ‘morning of the world’, but more often it is referred to simply as the ‘island of the gods’… However you describe it, one thing is very clear – the Indonesian island of Bali is many things to many people! To the Balinese, their home is blessed with rich soil, abundant water, beautiful scenery and a rich culture that supports, sustains and nourishes them, while, for the average tourist, it is a friendly and interesting place, overlaid with a teeming and rather chaotic flow of humanity that is hard to even take in at first, never mind to understand… For the travelling diver though, particularly for Australians who are so near, it offers a wonderful and exotic location to experience the incredible diving that the rich waters of the Indo-Pacific have to offer. With one of the best-known wrecks in the world, excellent critter sites, some beautiful reefs and big animals like the oceanic sunfish, Bali truly has something for everybody! But why is this island, which is just one of the thousands that form the nation of Indonesia, so special? The answer to that question is in the waters that touch certain parts of Bali…

IT IS ALL ABOUT THE WATER…

It is said that if the nearly 18,000 islands of the huge Indonesian archipelago did not exist, there would only be 23 hours in each day. How so, you may ask… well, take a look at Indonesia on Google Earth and you can see those islands are spread out along the Equator over a total distance that takes some seven hours to fly over - Indonesia is a really big country! To the north-east of the archipelago is the Pacific Ocean, while to the south-west is the Indian Ocean, and as the Earth rotates, an incredibly complex mix of oceanic currents, underwater topography, weather and physical geography combine to create a unique phenomenon called the Indonesian Throughflow. It really is extremely complicated, but the Readers Digest explanation of it all is that those complex factors result in an average sea-water level in the north-east that is some 1.5 inches higher than the average in the south-west. That difference creates the largest volume of moving water in the world, which surges down through the Indonesian archipelago, bringing with it rich nutrients from the deep basins in the north-east while distributing the eggs and larvae of the region. In the process those 18,000 islands act as a huge hydraulic brake that slows down the Earth’s rotation and means we have 24 hours in each day.

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No doubt you will have heard of the Coral Triangle – the richest known area of marine biodiversity in the world. Well, the Indonesian Throughflow is the life-source of the Coral Triangle and the main exit point for those waters to leave the archipelago is the Lombok Strait between Bali and its eastern neighbour Lombok! That’s why Bali is special…

NOT TO BE TAKEN LIGHTLY!

To understand the diving in Bali it is easiest to think of the dive sites in two distinct ways – the sheltered sites and the unsheltered ones. By sheltered I mean the bays and locations where the full impact of the Indonesian Throughflow is not too much of a challenge and can be dived safely. Then, there are the unsheltered sites, where you will come up against the Throughflow… The sheltered sites are typically rich in the exotic critters of the Indo-Pacific and can be an absolute delight to dive.

But if you look at a map of Bali, there are lots of bays and you might be tempted to think that they all would offer great critter diving. Unfortunately, that is not the case, and the southern half of the island is rarely dived as the rich waters of the Indonesian Throughflow have not touched them. The north coast, the east coast, and the north-western tip of the island are where the Throughflow has worked its magic – but only in certain key locations, where the underwater topography delivers the right mix of nutrient flow and shelter those critters need to thrive. The really unsheltered sites are the ones that sit on the edge of the Lombok Strait, can only be dived under certain conditions and are truly only for experienced divers led by a seasoned local guide who knows the site.

THE NORTH COAST

The north coast of Bali is home to several well-established dive locations, the most well-known of which is Tulamben and its famous Liberty wreck. Most divers visiting Bali for the first time will typically head there and it does indeed offer some nice diving and great underwater photo-opportunities. But the Liberty wreck is unfortunately not what it was just five to seven years ago,

Bali, in my opinion, has a lot to offer both above and below the water – in fact, I like it so much that eight years ago my wife and I built a house there… WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU

To understand the diving in Bali it is easiest to think of the dive sites in two distinct ways – the sheltered sites and the unsheltered ones

The Liberty shipwreck

Bali’s fringing reefs are stunning

as the number of dive resorts at Tulamben has grown dramatically, and diver traffic has taken its toll. That said, it is still a fantastic dive well worth experiencing. There is more to Tulamben than the Liberty though, with the Coral Gardens and Drop-Off a relatively short walk down the beach. The next article in this series on diving Bali will be an in-depth look at the Liberty, how and when to dive it, plus what you can expect to see at the other sites in and near Tulamben, such as Seraya Secrets. Just to the east of Tulamben is the part of Bali called Amed, which is a series of seven small villages sandwiched between the beach and the largely dormant volcanoes that are the dominant feature of the area. While Tulamben simply is diving… Amed has managed to create a ‘new-age’ kind of a vibe with an eclectic mix of diving, freediving, yoga studios and wellness… It is quite different to Tulamben and, if you are travelling with family or a non-diving partner, is the place to head for. There are numerous critter sites in Amed, plus the ‘other’ shipwreck in Bali – the Japanese wreck… together with some excellent coral gardens. Plus, it’s a pretty quick drive round to either Tulamben or Seraya if you want to dive those areas. Heading west along the north coast are a number of black sand critter sites, with the most well known being Puri Jati, or PJ as everybody calls it. While even further west still is Pemuteran and its artificial reefs and regular sightings of dolphins.

THE EAST COAST

Diving on the east coast of Bali is centred around the town of Candi Dasa and Amuk Bay and, while there are a few sheltered locations, most of the sites verge on the unsheltered. Amuk Bay is roughly 8km wide, with Candi Dasa at the northern end and the small, picturesque fishing village of Padangbai just round the southern tip of the bay. Padangbai is best known as the place to catch the ferry to Lombok and where most of the dive operators working the east coast depart from. The English word ‘amok’ (as in ‘to run amok’…) is derived from the Indonesian word ‘amuk’ and roughly translates to going somewhat crazy. So, you can probably get the drift of why the bay is so named and the craziness is the impact the

waters of the Indonesian Throughflow have as they surge down through the nearby Lombok Strait. And, the further out from Amuk Bay you go, the more you will encounter that impact! The most well-known sheltered site is the Blue Lagoon at Padangbai, which offers some very pleasant critter hunting. Plus, there is the Pertamina jetty in Candi Dasa which has a great combination of wide-angle photo-opportunities in and around its many pylons, together with some tremendous critter diving along the bottom. The jetty can get a bit challenging as the tides peak, but overall, it is a safe and very rewarding dive. Located on the outer edge of Amuk Bay, as the seafloor starts to drop down into the depths of the Lombok Strait, are some small islands - Gili Mimpang, also known as Batu Tiga (three rocks) together with Gili Tepekong and Gili Biaha. All the islands offer some exceptional, but potentially challenging diving and are very much in the unsheltered category. They are also where mola mola, or oceanic sunfish, are often sighted! Gili Tepekong is also the location of the renowned site known as the Canyon, where fallen rocks from the island have created an area reminiscent of Roman ruins that is now populated by large schools of sweetlips, jacks, grouper and whitetip reef sharks. The Canyon is often considered a

DON SILCOCK

In more normal times, Don is based on Bali in Indonesia, but is currently hunkered down in Sydney… His website: www.indopacificimages.com has extensive location guides, articles and images on some of the best diving locations in the Indo-Pacific region and ‘big animal’ experiences globally.

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‘must dive’ location, but many operators are very reluctant to take divers there because of the dangers of downdrafts into the Lombok Strait. So much so that on the sheltered northern tip of Tepekong there is a site known as the Faux Canyon, where operators have been known to take divers and tell them it is the real Canyon!

NORTH-WEST BALI

There are two really interesting areas to dive around the north-west tip of Bali – the fairly large island of Menjangan and the rather mysteriously named Secret Bay. Menjangan means ‘deer’ in Bahasa Indonesia and is a reference to their presence in nearby the West Bali national park… There are several dive sites on the island which offer some excellent and very colourful walls, a small shipwreck, eel gardens and some reasonable critter hunting. While Secret Bay is renowned for its critters only, there is not much else to see except various patches of rubbish! But, if critters are your thing, Secret Bay on a good day is quite hard to beat and it is also one of the best places in Bali to see the very strange bobbit worm! White-tip reef shark

Barrel sponge on a vibrant reef

HOW TO DIVE BALI

A quick search on Google will see you inundated with options on how to dive Bali – tourism is the main industry on the island and dive tourism is an important segment of that industry. That said, there are two main ways to plan a trip starting with selecting one main diving location on the island and planning to stay there for five to seven days, which will enable you to settle in properly and make the most of the place. Do your homework around the dive operator you choose as there is a lot of variation around the quality of what they do… All the operators will be able to arrange transport from the airport and accommodation but, be aware that it can easily be a three to four hour trip to get up to the north coast, which can make for a long day. The alternative is a ‘dive safari’ where you spend a few days at each main location. This is a well-established option, and it has a lot of advantages in allowing you to see a lot more of the island and the dive locations, but packing up your gear every couple of days can soon become a chore!

IN SUMMARY…

Bali is home to many smaller fish and critters

Bali, in my opinion, has a lot to offer both above and below the water – in fact, I like it so much that eight years ago my wife and I built a house there… Don’t judge the island or its people on what you may have seen or heard about Kuta, as it is simply not representative of the reality, and it does suck there! Get away from Kuta and its rampant over-development and you will start to cultivate an appreciation of the Island of the Gods… Underwater, Bali really has a lot to offer, and all the main diving locations are a long way from Kuta – so you can experience the rich waters of the Indo-Pacific and get some insight into the ‘real Bali’. n The Liberty shipwreck

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FIFISH

UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY DIVING SEABIRDS AND FAST-MOVING SUBJECTS Following his last article on working the subject, Martyn Guess provides some insight into and also tips on photographing diving seabirds and fast-moving subjects in order to get the best out of the photographic opportunities we find underwater PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARTYN GUESS

n these travel-restricted times, we are having to make the most of the diving opportunities available to us and for the majority, this means on our doorsteps. I recently travelled to South-East Scotland to get into the water with diving seabirds. This spectacle happens all around the world, so I recommend you check out locally where you can witness this amazing action. In my case I travelled to the Berwickshire Marine Reserve around St Abbs and Eyemouth in the Scottish borders. Each year in June and July, there are thousands of guillemots nesting precariously on the narrow cliff ledges. These birds spend the majority of their lives out at sea and only come into shore to breed. They dive underwater to find fish and sand eels to feed their ever-hungry young chicks and it was this phenomenon which I wanted to record. Whatever breed the birds are when and where you go, you will be sure to experience fast-moving and adrenalin-pumping action. Once we found the specific area under the cliffs where there were the most diving birds, we carefully and slowly got into the water and got under the surface quickly so as not to spook them. Once submerged I swam slowly towards the cliffs and suddenly at about 9m-10m depth was joined on my dive by birds swimming/flying past me in every direction. It is amazing to witness this as the birds are not at all fazed by us humans being close to them, as they hunt for whatever prey they are looking for. I watched for a while and then started to think about how I was going to capture this extraordinary behaviour. The photography is not easy as the birds are erratic and change direction very quickly and are also very fast. There are a number of different things to think about and while I will talk specifically about the guillemots, the basics are the same for other birds or fast-moving fish and larger subjects like sharks and dolphins, and also feeding frenzies underwater.

Best of Manado

Image 1. Close up of guillemot flying through the water

Firstly, think about the type of images you want to record. Close ups of the subjects showing them clearly, facial features, eye contact, wing positions, etc (image 1) or larger scenic shots recording a true-to-life image of the scene in front of you (image 2). In truth you probably need to take both types of shots to create a nicely balanced and pleasing portfolio. As you will be relatively shallow it is important to think about the relative position of the subjects against the surface, the sun and also the depths below you. As the birds move so quickly and erratically it is easy to track one and end up shooting straight towards the surface, where it is easy to burn

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Image 3. Eye contact – strobe lit

Image 2. Flying frenzy wide angle

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Want to learn how to take or improve your underwater images? Why not come on a photo specific trip? These trips are meticulously planned to the best destinations at the best time of year where the conditions should be perfect for building a portfolio of great images. The workshops, which are for all levels of experience but mainly aimed at people with a few trips under their belts, include classroom sessions and presentations as well as in water help and guidance, all done in a relaxed and non-competitive friendly environment. Please contact the Scuba Travel team or check out their website for details of planned trips this year as we hopefully come out of Lockdown. www.scubatravel.com out the top part of the frame. Or end up shooting down into the much-darker sea background below you, where it is easy to end up with dark, underexposed images. If you can organize yourself, it is worth spending time on a specific type of shot, say close-ups at eye level, and then change settings again say for surface shots. Having interrogated a few people before I went on the trip, I concluded that a wide-angle zoom lens would give me the most flexibility and the chance to get close ups as well as scenic images. In my case, as I use a full-frame DLSR, with limited zoom rectilinear lens options, I chose to use the Nauticam Wide-angle Corrector port. I think a fisheye lens would give you too wide a view and alter perspective of birds closer to you. For cropped sensors, the Tokina 10-17mm is a good option or with mirrorless cameras a mid-range zoom would work well. Compact cameras with their zoom range certainly give the flexibility required. With the lens set to a mid-wide position at first, I quickly found that it is impossible to get close and also see the subject through the viewfinder. Virtually all of the shots I took were by using the camera at chest height so that I could watch the birds over the camera and shoot at the same time. You do end up with a lot of images with the birds not quite

BIOGRAPHY MARTYN GUESS

Martyn has been diving for over 30 years and taking underwater images for nearly as long. He is a well-known and successful underwater photographer with many successes in National and International competitions and regularly makes presentations to Camera and Photography clubs and Dive shows as well as The British Society of Underwater Photographers (BSOUP) and other underwater photography groups. Today he shares his passion and knowledge - As well as teaching personalized underwater photography courses he leads overseas workshop trips for Scuba Travel and his articles regularly appear in Scuba Diver Magazine.

where you want them in the frame, but with a bit of practice you soon get the subject pretty central (image3) or this can be dealt with in post-processing cropping. I also moved the camera with the birds as they flew past to swing through them. I was often shooting against just a sea background so fast swinging or panning of the camera helped with sharp images, although it is important to use a fast shutter speed. When taking wider angle images of a scene rather than specific birds, it is much easier to shoot through the viewfinder.

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UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY Image 4. Diving from the surface – adds context

With the lens set to a mid-wide position at first, I quickly found that it is impossible to get close and also see the subject through the viewfinder

Image 5. Sun rays and surface add context

I chose to use strobe lighting for the tighter images although you do need to be close to the subjects to get the light on them. I found that setting the camera up for multiple shutter release and low power on my strobes allowed me to keep shooting as I panned through the shot. I tried both auto ISO and manual selection and found that auto helped for the darker backgrounds but not too well for shots shooting up towards the surface. Apertures were set to give a good depth of field – around F11 in my case, although

I changed this around depending on the background light levels, given that the fast shutter speed is necessary to capture the fast-moving birds. When I started to process the images after the trip, the images with the under surface showing or with sun rays, added quite a bit of context and interest and were probably my favorite type of shot for this subject (Images 4 and 5). It was easy to get the exposure right, by taking my time and then find a subject close by to put in the frame. You will be spoilt for choice – trust me! As the birds speed down from the surface, they leave a small trail of bubbles which adds to the interest and context. The close-up images show the birds nicely but unless there was say a jellyfish or another bird in the shot, it is difficult sometimes to determine whether the bird is actually underwater, which of course is the reason I was photographing them. I guess that being able to get close in mid-flight is something that you can’t do on dry land, so definitely worth having close-up images in your portfolio. I have used similar settings, techniques and lens choices for shooting spinner dolphins in the Red Sea, where you tend to be snorkeling with strong sunlight. When shooting bait balls and also sharks, the chest high camera position together with panning is a great technique to use. I recommend finding out if you can easily access similar bird action close to where you live – it is definitely worth the effort. n

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EXPLORE AUSTRALIA WITH ADRENO

Cairns LiVeaboard 6 DAYS 2 6 D I V E S Dive one of Australia’s premier dive locations visiting the Coral Sea and includes dives on the world famous Cod Hole where numerous Potato Cod visit regularly. A highlight will be to dive Osprey Reef where you can see up to a hundred sharks on any one dive. Alladins Cave and Pirates Cove where pelagics abound with mantas, eagle rays, tuna and barracuda.

Bouganville Reef brings you big fish action at Crystal Plateau, and finally dive the Ribbon Reefs, a selection of coral reefs and fish life including trevally, sharks and moray eels. Stay on board one of Australia’s finest liveaboards, Mike Ball dive vessel “Spoilsport” can cater for up to 28 divers. All cabins are air conditioned, generous dive deck with 3 camera tables, quality meals are cooked by the on board chef, and include snacks in between dives.

20 January - 25th 2022 Contact Adreno For More Information

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DIVERS ALERT NETWORK: ASIA-PACIFIC Divers Alert Network, widely known as DAN, is an international non-profit medical and research organisation dedicated to the safety and health of divers. WWW.DANAP.ORG

DIVERS ADRIFT

SURVIVING BEING LOST AT SEA

xploration isn’t easy — if it were, everyone would do it. The reality is that the next big shipwreck to be found may be hundreds of miles from the nearest coast, tucked into a remote cove hours from civilization, or in an area with huge tidal currents. The more difficult a wreck is to get to, the more rewarding its discovery, but also the more likely it is that you’ll run into trouble during or after your dive. Challenges become hazards quickly, and many offshore adventures are rife with risk factors that make it more likely that you’ll surface from your dive without a boat in sight. Whether your charter sprung a leak and became a new dive site, or drifted off in search of another diver ,here’s what you need to know to survive.

ASSESS YOUR SITUATION

The first step in any survival situation is to take in all the information available to you. If you are lost without the knowledge that a vessel is actively looking for you, it may be wise to start thinking about nearby shore. With near-coastal charters in particular, land may be just a short swim away. Extended exposure to the elements means dehydration, loss of body heat, exposure to sun and lack of food and water. You’ll want to look at what you have for signalling devices and exposure protection first; your most-important task is to signal a vessel, but you’ll need to avoid becoming too sunburned or cold in the process. Should your attempts to signal a passing vessel fail, you’ll want to ensure you’re as warm and uninjured as possible while you wait for a search party to locate you.

If you are lost without the knowledge that a vessel is actively looking for you, it may be wise to start thinking about nearby shore

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Once you’ve assessed your situation and discovered that you are actually lost at sea, it’s critical that you take a deep breath and force yourself to think as clearly and rationally as possible

KEEP CALM AND FLOAT ON

Keeping a cool head may be the most-important thing to do in any emergency situation. Once you’ve assessed your situation and discovered that you are actually lost at sea, it’s critical that you take a deep breath and force yourself to think as clearly and rationally as possible. It’s a common occurrence in some areas to be out of sight of a dive vessel at times. It may be the case that the crew has a careful eye on you from a higher vantage point (the view from a tall wheelhouse is much better than that of a diver floating on the surface), or they may have gone after another lost diver but still know your location. At night a vessel may run with minimal lights to preserve the crew’s night vision, and you may have to look for red and green side markers to spot them. In case you have been lost by your vessel, panic can quickly make your situation dangerous. Take a deep breath, locate and grab hold of your buddy, make yourself positively buoyant and as comfortable as possible, and prepare for your next step.

HOPE FOR THE BEST; PREPARE FOR THE WORST

If it’s apparent that help will not arrive very soon, it’s time to begin planning for the worst-case scenario. Ditch your weights and extraneous gear (if you haven’t already), inflate your BCD and lie back on it to keep yourself out of the water as much as possible. Tie your BCD to your buddy’s with a piece of line from a reel or a clip — positive outcomes in survival situations are more likely in groups. Stay close together for warmth and to help each other deal with any issues that arise. You’ll be able to survive for about three days without water and three weeks without food. Depending on when and where you’ve been stranded, exposure protection will most likely

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be your first concern. Keep your exposure suit of choice on, minimise unnecessary movement, and pull your legs toward your torso and hug them to minimise heat loss. You can find some protection from the sun by holding up a fin, a piece of a wetsuit or some other light piece of gear. It’s unlikely that you’ll be able to source water or food while floating, so focus on staying warm and close to your buddy.

MAKE YOURSELF VISIBLE

After you’ve prepared yourself to spend the night out, it’s time to make yourself easy to find. Focus on low-energy signalling devices; you’ll want to save your strength as much as possible. Surface marker buoys, dye markers, strobes and flashlights are great. Any shiny object (even a mask or dive computer) can be used to reflect light at passing vessels, and a brightly coloured fin waved in the air can get the attention of someone much more effectively than your hand. At night a flashlight shined up into a tall surface marker will illuminate it and make for an excellent signalling device, and noisemakers such as whistles can attract the attention of rescuers amid the din of wind and surf. DANAP.org

DAN EMERGENCY HOTLINE

In the event of a diving incident, we encourage all divers to call the DAN Hotline promptly for advice: • Within Australia: 1800 088 200 • Outside Australia: +1 919 684 9111 • Within Indonesia: 21 5085 8719

USING PHOTOMOSAICS IN WRECK SITE INVESTIGATION, PART TWO Project Director Mike Haigh continues his look at photomosaics – a vital tool of the diving archaeologist

o illustrate the practical application of photomosaics, I will take three examples. Off the Aeolian island of Panarea lies a site known as ‘Relitto Alberti’, a well preserved but jumbled wreck dated to the 1st Century AD. The main body of the wreck lies at about 40m. In the summer of 1987, the Oxford University Mare team produced a photomosaic which was to assist in focusing future work on the site to the most promising areas. Other methods of obtaining this analysis were hindered by the depth of the site and resulting limited bottom times. The method was simply to lay out ropes and have a diver ‘fly’ over the site. The resultant mosaic was good enough for publication. The marble wreck of Isola Della Correnti, near the most southerly tip of Sicily, provided a different challenge. A Roman wreck dating back to the 3rd Century AD, after centuries under the sea the marble blocks were almost indiscernible from the rocks that surrounded the site – making a traditional photomosaic almost irrelevant as a visual spectacle. However, a transverse run through the site produced a panoramic that showed the true majesty of the 350 ton cargo. The third example is the Studland Bay Wreck, the remains of a Spanish trading ship from about 1500, lying just outside

Poole harbour. The visibility on the site rarely bettered 2m so producing an accurate record of the starboard section, measuring 22.5m by 3.5m, was going to be a challenge. The challenge was met. When the photomosaic was compared to the divers’ drawings some ‘gaps’ in the survey record were identified. ‘The camera does not lie!’ www.wreckhunters.co.uk

Next time we look at the techniques used in excavating a wreck site.

The third example is the Studland Bay Wreck, the remains of a Spanish trading ship from about 1500

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WRECK HUNTERS SEASON ONE 2021 Barefoot luxury in the heart of Indonesia LAST CALL Calling would-be undersea detectives! This is the FINAL CALL for divers to take part in a unique diving archaeology programme starting in the late summer of 2021* on the Caribbean island of Utila. The Wreck Hunters project is offering a one-month, limited availability window for divers to be a part of the Season One team. Applications need to be made by 31.07.21. The focus this year is about getting to the heart of the story of a wreck called ‘The Oliver’, its rich history and the life of 18th Century mariners. Learn the skills of undersea archaeology, from traditional to cutting edge techniques. If you’re a relatively experienced diver with skills or experienced in drawing (artistic or technical), surveying, photography or in construction work this could be just what you’re looking for (See website for full details). Project Director Mike Haigh’s ideal candidates have a ‘good sense of humour’ and enjoy teamwork. Check out www.wreckhunters.co.uk

So, if you think this project would help put a smile on your face, why not get in touch to find out more at

www.wreckhunters.co.uk 0117 9596454

Bunaken National Marine Park

info@wreckhunters.co.uk

*COVID restrictions may result in a change of operation dates.

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etween the Royal National Park and Northern Beaches suburbs, no less than three river estuaries meet the south Pacific Ocean. In and between these, a mix of sandy beaches and dramatic sandstone cliffs shape the water’s edge, creating interesting underwater sceneries, and shelter from ocean swells. Aside from a handful of storms per year, this means there are always a few locations safe to dive. More than 30 dive sites are accessible from shore in good weather, twice as many from a boat (including wrecks) - there are just so many options! Despite its latitude, Sydney’s waters are relatively warm, ranging from 12-15 degrees C in winter, to 21-24 degrees C in summer. This is a courtesy of the East Australian Current (EAC), which flows southward from Tropical Queensland, bringing in warmer waters. The EAC also carries larva from tropical species, such as longfin bannerfish, common lionfish, and even ornate ghost pipefish! While these may not survive the southern winter, they complement temperate critters only found in the southern half of Australia - friendly blue grouper, fiddler rays, weedy sea dragon, white’s seahorses, Sydney’s pygmy pipehorses, red Indianfish, and red-fingered anglerfish, to name a few. All-in-one, Sydney boasts a diverse marine life, with both large animals (wobbegong sharks, grey nurse shark, smooth stingrays, giant cuttlefish) and ‘bucket-list’ macro critters (three species of anglerfish, two species of seahorses, several pipefish species and 40-plus species of nudibranchs). In terms of dive profiles, Sydney’s shore dives sit between 5m-25m depth, the majority shallower than 15m, while boat dives are found in any depths, with some wrecks in the 4050m range. Visibility varies depending on the site and weather conditions - ocean-facing sites tend to have clearer blue water than sites from inner bays, but this will really depend on the height and direction of swell, and recent rains. All-in-one, ten to 15 metres visibility in Sydney is considered pretty good, five to ten metres is more standard, but with three rivers, many bays and some tidal currents, it really is location dependent. There is enough to say to fill a book, but for this article, I will focus on our five favourite shore-dives:

Access to great local diving was a must when Nicolas and Lena Remy relocated to Australia. They wanted to dive every weekend and have access to a diversity of sites and marine life, and so they ended up in Sydney. Four years later, Nicolas is convinced that Sydney boasts the best local shore-diving that can be found in any international metropolis, and here he explains why

KURNELL

For local divers, ‘diving Kurnell’ refers to three sites (Monuments, the Steps, the Leap) located at the southern tip of Botany Bay. These sites are only 600 metres apart, and divers would often cover two in a single dive, drifting with tidal currents. Although currents can be avoided by planning your dive around slack, it is best to be reasonably fit, as each entry/exit point will either require climbing stairs or walking 300 metres (Monuments). These efforts will be rewarded by a diverse fish life and lush sponge gardens, covering boulders of various size, scattered on the seafloor. The seafloor gently slopes down, until a sand line which is where most divers will navigate. It is deepest at the Leap (21m), and gets progressively shallower as you go west, 1115m at the Steps, 10-12m at Monuments. Visibility is typically between five and ten metres, but may reach 15-20 metres, especially around high tide. Weedy sea dragons are a common sight in Kurnell, and for skilled spotters anglerfish (red-fingered, painted), potbelly seahorses and pipefishes (Sydney’s pygmy pipehorse, red widebodies pipefish, upside-down pipefish). Many more species are commonly seen, naming a few - cuttlefish, blue grouper, scorpionfish (including dwarf lionfish), boxfish, leatherjackets, moray eels… the list really is too long to type! Sharks can also be seen (wobbegong, port-jackson, crestedhorn shark), and occasionally turtles.

BARE ISLAND

Bare Island is located on the northern side of Botany Bay, opposite Kurnell. A 250-metre walk from free off-street parking (busy on weekends) leads to the entry point. Bare Island is a bit of a ‘choose your dive adventure’ place, with four named dive sites, spanning over 550 metres West to East, and 350 metres North to South. Reef patches and walls are more scattered than on the Kurnell side, so navigation requires more attention. It gets down to 18m in the South-West (the ‘deep wall’), but many interesting reefs are found between 7m-14m. The visibility is typically four to seven metres on the Western side, and a bit better on the Eastern side, however marine life is more abundant West. The Eastern side often has clearer water, but a less species. Tidal currents form in the West/South-West but wouldn’t prevent diving in the shallower areas (7m-12m). In terms of critters, Bare Island and Kurnell are similar, save for two emblematic species: the red Indianfish is found only in Bare Island and very rare in Kurnell, and vice versa for the weedy sea dragon. Bare Island also makes an excellent night dive, which isn’t an option in Kurnell (gate closure).

PHOTOGRAPHS BY NICOLAS AND LENA REMY

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Shark Point is a scenic dive, with clearer visibility than inner bays (ten to 15 metres typically), dramatic topography, vibrant sponge gardens and a feeling of being on your own, with fewer divers visiting

INTRODUCTION TO

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Black anglerfish Sydney has some fabulous shore dives

Port Jackson sharks

CHOWDER BAY

Sydney’s best muck dive is along the Chowder Bay jetty (3m-10m depth), bordering the Clifton Gardens park, in the heart of Sydney’s natural harbour. Expect poor visibility (two to five metres is typical), but critters bonanza: this is the best place to spot the rare White’s seahorse (sometimes we see ten during a dive), and various pipefish species. Indonesia’s famous hairy frogfish (striate anglerfish) is another regular, as well as painted anglerfish. Leatherjackets are everywhere, with fanbellies and southern pygmies, my favourite. Sabretooth blennies and species of wrasses are well represented. Cephalopods abound, we often see 20-plus cuttlefish per dive, and quite a few octopi. Under the jetty regulars include decorator crabs, porcupinefish and moray eels. Chowder Bay gets busy on weekends, so for a bit of privacy, why not visit the artificial reefs and small wreck in the centre of the bay (14m-16m), the atmosphere is a bit gloomy down-there and it is very silty, a few stingrays and sometimes numbrays can be seen on the way. We have also seen stripey, old wife, and kingfish schooling near the wreck. Clifton Gardens is great at night, with anglerfish more active, pajama squids, blue-lined octopi, toadfish, and some more nudibranchs wandering around. Healthy sponges and corals

CABBAGE TREE BAY

Off the Northern suburb of Manly lies Cabbage Tree Bay (CTB), which is best accessed from Shelly Beach. Twenty years ago, CTB held little fish life, but in 2002 it became Sydney’s only no-take aquatic reserve. Years of protection later, it turned it into one of Sydney’s best dives, abounding in marine life. Divers usually follow either the right-hand side or left-hand side sand-line, reaching 13m depth on the right side, and 6m on the left side, all within a four to ten metres visibility, very variable. Navigation is easy when following the rock/sand demarcation. The middle of the bay is essentially sandy with patches of seagrass, but we like wandering around there, in search for the unlikely. CTB is a great ‘wide-angle dive’, not for its sponge life, which is limited compared to other sites, but for the abundance of large fish and schooling fish (yellowtail, old wives, and sometimes salmon and kingfish). Blue grouper, stingrays, eagle rays, fiddler rays, dusky flatheads, giant cuttlefish, and wobbegong sharks are commonly seen. All these are mobile but on a single dive we counted nine wobbegongs. In winter, Port Jackson sharks aggregate in CTB to mate, and a dozen can easily be spotted on a dive. In warmer months, grey nurse sharks and juvenile dusky whaler sharks also occupy the bay. Occasionally turtles, Australian angelshark, and even dolphins are spotted. Smaller but fascinating habitants of CTB include weedy sea dragons and golden weedfish.

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ANILAO, PHILIPPINES DEDICATED TO UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHERS

r ou ! Y n t Ge ro O c Ma

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Great tuition from beginner through to instructor training for family groups, small groups and one-to-one training. We are a PADI 5-Star IDC centre and offer 18 PADI Specialty course options on our Master Scuba Diver program.

Make an appointment for our personal fitting service, great for anyone wanting to get kitted out with scuba. We specialise in divers under 55kg and over 100kg with options to make you comfortable under water. 40 unique brands to choose from, we fit divers of all sizes.

02 96891389

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Cuttlefish

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TO START YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE!

Nudibranchs of all shapes and sizes

SHARK POINT

Like most dive sites called Shark Point, this one isn’t particularly a great for spotting sharks, but is a pleasant oceanic dive on Sydney’s eastern suburbs. Some divers would jump from the Shark Point rock platform, which can be dangerous unless the ocean is flat, so we prefer to enter via the sheltered Clovelly Pool, and swim for 300 metres before immersing ourselves. Swimming Eastward, the seabed goes deeper in marches, until it reaches a flat area 20-25m deep, where a succession of big boulders and walls are yours to explore. Shark Point is a scenic dive, with clearer visibility than inner bays (ten to 15 metres typically), dramatic topography, vibrant sponge gardens and a feeling of being on your own, with fewer divers visiting. Here we have encountered giant cuttlefish, Port Jackson sharks, eagle rays, scorpionfish, red morning, various wrasses, boxfish and schooling kingfish, catfish and salmon.

FINAL WORDS - A COMMUNITY

Sydney diving wouldn’t be the same without its large, active and welcoming community of divers and snorkellers. Besides the dive centres and clubs, two Facebook groups bring the community together - the VIZ group (6,400 members), where divers and snorkellers share observations from their last dip,

and the Sydney Dive Buddy Network (4,600 members), to find dive buddies, exchange tips and retrieve lost gear. Finally, a shout-out to two generous individuals who make diving more enjoyable for all by sharing their knowledge Michael McFadyen’s website has a description of all dive sites, and Marco Bordieri (Viz On Web) shares detailed underwater maps. n

NICOLAS AND LENA

For more images from Nicolas and Lena, visit their website, www.nicolaslenaremy.com or follow them on Instagram and Facebook @nicolaslenaremy

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Byron Conroy heads to the Maldives in search of the mythical ‘wall of sharks’ – would his week on the luxury Blue Force One liveaboard be a success? PHOTOGRAPHS BY BYRON CONROY

hen people think of the Maldives, they immediately think of paradise - white sandy beaches and blue oceans. The resorts with over-water bungalows and all-day sunbathing. However, for a diver it’s all about what lies beneath the blue ocean surface. I have stayed in island resorts in the Maldives before, and while the diving can be very good from a resort, to get the real true taste of variety the Maldives offers, it’s best to explore via a liveaboard. The sheer distance a liveaboard will cover during a week will offer much more from the diving than any one resort can. Dive seasons in the Maldives are around two different itineraries - last time I was there I took the classic ‘Best of Maldives’ route, the diving was great and we saw a wide variety of subjects, including everyone’s favourites, sharks and mantas. However, after discussing the trip with the local guides, they told me that if I wanted lots of sharks and the elusive whaleshark, then the time to come was February/March on the Deep South route. The Deep South route runs for about eight weeks, as this time of year the inward currents bring nice clear water into the atolls along with big currents, and this in turn brings in the sharks. Rumours of walls of 100 sharks were something I had heard for a long time, but thought were a diving myth. Currents on this itinerary can be strong, so it’s only recommended for advanced experienced divers.

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PART ONE

The Deep South route runs for about eight weeks, as this time of year the inward currents bring nice clear water into the atolls along with big currents, and this in turn brings in the sharks. Rumours of walls of 100 sharks were something I had heard for a long time, but thought were a diving myth

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Healthy hard coral reef

Moray eel

To get to the Deep South, you need to take a domestic plane on arrival in Male to the southern atoll. Trips are run Saturday to Saturday on Blue Force One, a luxury dive liveaboard that’s based in the Maldives all year around. On arrival, you take the domestic flight to either Koodoo or Gan, as the boat rotates between these two locations depending if it’s running a trip South or North. My starting location was Gan, in the deep South of the Maldives, at the very southern end of the Addu Atoll. We were met at the airport by the dive team and escorted via the diving dhoni to our home for the next week. Blue Force One was awarded the ‘Best Maldivian Liveaboard’ in 2018 and is a luxury boat purpose built for diving. After a short introduction to the boat and a welcome drink, we were shown to our cabins. I have been on a few liveaboards around the world and the cabins on Blue Force are among the best I have ever seen. A large double bed and lots of room to store all of your photo equipment, along with multiple charging points. The bathroom was rather special for being on board, a huge bathroom with large shower was going to make a week’s diving in salty water very pleasant. The boat also features a large sundeck, full service outdoor bar and an outdoor eating area where all meals are served. On both the sundeck and the bow there are also jacuzzis for watching the sunset.

Paddleboarding on an evening

The mythical ‘wall of sharks’

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Happy divers in a channel

Anemonefish

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Whaleshark

There are also a large selection of kayaks and stand-up paddleboards for surface intervals. The dive supervisor was David, a Spanish national with a huge amount of diving experience from all over the world, and an encyclopaedic knowledge of the Maldives. Briefings from David were amusing and always entertaining. People looked forward to the briefings and the chance to hear David’s jokes and get the inside track on what we would see underwater - he was always willing to share his knowledge with all of the guests. My guide for the week was Xille, a Maldivian local who has been diving the Maldives all of his life. It was great to know the groups on board were small, with usually just four divers per guide, and it was also nice to know we would get the same guide for the duration of the trip. It’s nice to get familiar with your guide and also to understand each other - on a liveaboard this really adds to the diving experience, you know what you are going to get and you can bond with your guide. After dinner on board and meeting all the other guests, a plan was formed for the following day’s diving. The first dive

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It’s nice to get familiar with your guide and also to understand each other - on a liveaboard this really adds to the diving experience would be a checkout dive on a nice reef, then off to a wreck for the second dive. The first dive was Vilingilli Bayru, a beautiful reef and great for a checkout dive. One thing that really surprised me about the dive was the quality of the corals. The Maldives is not famous for its corals, with many of the areas in the North and Central suffering from bleaching and wipeouts. The deep South, though, was a different ballgame, rich hard corals interspersed with many different selections of small reef fish was a pleasure to see. The reef was colourful and vibrant and a perfect checkout dive.

Mass of hard corals

Tony shrimp on crinoid Frogfish

Wreck diving is unusual in the Maldives, people come to see the big stuff, but the British Loyalty wreck was a very nice addition to the trip Wreck diving is unusual in the Maldives, people come to see the big stuff, but the British Loyalty wreck was a very nice addition to the trip. The wreck is a former British oil tanker and sits on its port side in around 30m of water. The starboard side is around 15m deep and is covered with hard corals, and hovering above are huge schools of fusiliers which dance in the sunlight, making beautiful shapes, and blue trevallies come darting in and out trying to pick them off. As we made our way to the stern of the boat, we then dropped down the back to see the propeller, which is still perfectly in place. On the stern there are nice coral bushes, glassfish and lionfish, making for lovely photographs. We headed back over the boat and completed our safety stop in among the fusiliers.

The deep South is not famous for mantas, as it’s a sharkbased trip, however we did dive the only locally known manta station in the afternoon. The dive at Maa Kandu is a drift dive and a great chance for everyone to try out the reef hooks that we would be using a lot during the rest of the week. We drifted along a shallow reef for around ten minutes before arriving at an underwater coral mound that is a cleaning station for manta rays. As we drifted over the tip everyone then hooked in on the other side down current waiting for the mantas to arrive. Unfortunately for us none arrived, however the drift along the reef was lovely, with lots of fish and more beautiful corals. Mantas are usually seen around 50 percent of the time, but you can’t predict nature. n

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The Fantastic

FOUR The Philippines offers a wealth of diving opportunities, Richard Smith shares some of his favourites

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DR RICHARD SMITH | WWW.OCEANREALMIMAGES.COM

or many years the diving scene in the Philippines played second fiddle to Indonesia, but with many great all-rounder destinations throughout the archipelago, the Philippines is fast becoming the big Asian dive destination of the moment. The diving is extremely varied across the country, attracting divers in search of animals both little and large, stunning coral reefs and great wreck diving. Here I’ll share my four favourite destinations, which are just the tip of the iceberg in terms of what the Philippines has to offer.

ANILAO, SOUTHWEST LUZON ISLAND

Anilao is the Philippines’ answer to Lembeh Strait, where multitudes of fascinating muck diving critters await the sharpest of eyes. There are a plethora of accommodation options all along the richly forested headland, which is just a few hours’ drive from Manila on the island of Luzon. Due to its proximity to the capital, and international airline gateway, it is a great add-on destination for another dive location in the country. Or, of course, it’s a great dive spot in its own right. The dive sites include intriguing soft coral and sponge reefs, black sand and rubble slopes. For the non-initiated diver, this might sound like a terrible collection of sites. In fact, for muck dive aficionados these are some of the richest substrates. Anilao accommodates many of the usual muck dive suspects such as hairy frogfish, seahorses, mandarinfish and even the rarer Rhinopias scorpionfish, Coleman shrimps, mimic octopus and other treats. Anilao and Lembeh Strait are, however, rather different. I have been to Lembeh Strait many times, but in Anilao I saw quite a number of species I had never seen before. One group that seem particularly well represented in Anilao are nudibranchs. I saw many species I had never even heard of beforehand, and many that I’d only seen in pictures. One, Allen’s Ceratosoma (Ceratosoma alleni), I had been hunting for years but never had the fortune of finding. On one dive in Anilao I saw three chomping their way through a glade of the soft corals that they mimic and feed upon. Dives are generally made from local-style outrigger boats, which quickly and easily navigate the waters between the mainland and some of the other sites on neighbouring islands. Night dives are great in the area and offer various highlights, from mandarinfish on the resort’s doorstep to black sand and silty sites that have resident bobbit worms and the like. Muck divers will undoubtedly love Anilao.

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PUERTO GALERA, MINDORO ISLAND

Puerto Galera is another location that is easily accessed from Manila. It is just a couple of hours by car to the port of Batangas, where you meet a boat to take you the last hour of the journey over to Puerto Galera on the island of Mindoro. I stayed at Atlantis Resort and was shown the great variety of local sites, while being based at their lovely, ocean-fronted resort in the heart of the main town. Puerto Galera is quite a bustling place and has many shops, dive resorts and bars. It is quite a contrast to some other dive areas, but fun and full of energy. The diving is extremely varied, with stunning reefs in the Verde Passage, wrecks, muck dives and everything in between. Verde is a spectacular dive area, where strong currents bring nutrient-rich water to feed clouds of anthias and all manner of magnificent soft and hard corals. Dives are entirely manageable, however, and local guides consider tides and currents when planning the dive schedule. There are lots of turtles and passing pelagic fishes here too, so it’s worth keeping an eye into the blue. On the other end of the scale, there is muck diving here as well. Just around the corner from the resorts is Secret Bay, where rare gurnard lionfish, black hairy frogfish and flamboyant cuttlefish can be found. The white sand muck diving makes a nice contrast to the black sand sites at

Flamboyant cuttlefish

Coral-encrusted anchor

Dives are entirely manageable, however, and local guides consider tides and currents when planning the dive schedule The Philippines is a photographer’s heaven

relatively nearby Anilao. The other side of the headland has a muck dive of sorts, but with much more of a reef influence. Here, the occasional whip corals have shrimps, xeno crabs and cowries, plus you’re likely to find a pygmy seahorse on a gorgonian if you look closely. Puerto Galera is a great all-round destination that is easily accessible from Manila and offers stunning reefs, plus many of the top critters on any wish list in southeast Asia. Thresher sharks

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Hard corals provide a perfect habitat

MALAPASCUA, NORTHERN CEBU

Harlequin shrimp

Shrimp hitching a ride on a nudibranch

Malapascua Island, off the northern tip of Cebu Island, has become world famous for being the only site on the planet where thresher sharks can reliably be sighted. The dive to find them involves a very early morning entry onto a deep reef, where the sharks come each morning to be cleaned. The best sightings take place while knelt calmly on a small natural platform at 30m. Even on nitrox, the depth doesn’t allow you to spend a great deal of time waiting for the sharks to arrive. The three mornings I went, I saw the sharks but the best day was the last, when two sharks gave me quite a close pass. The tail on these animals is something to behold. Scientists had guessed that the function of the ridiculously long tail was to whip and stun schooling fish, due to them often being caught on long-line hooks by their tails. Only recently was their hunting method confirmed on camera. The top of Monad Shoal, where the threshers go to be cleaned, is around 15m deep, but there are nice sightings of other pelagics here while you slowly ascend. A group of adolescent eagle rays were resident during my visit and would make quite close passes. It’s actually lovely, after an adrenaline-filled descent into the dark waters of dawn, to spend some time watching the reef wake up. Other than the morning dives in search of threshers, there are plenty of other local sites to keep you occupied for the rest of the diving day. The reefs are interesting, and dominated by invertebrates such as soft corals and sponges, rather than hard corals. We saw unexpected beasts, such as algae octopus, unusual nudibranchs and of course pygmy seahorses. There is certainly plenty to keep you occupied aside from the thresher sharks around Malapascua.

RIDE A KALESA

The kalesa is a horse-drawn calash that was introduced to the islands by the Spanish in the 18th century, making it one of the oldest modes of transport in the Philippines 55

STRONG STOMACHS REQUIRED!

Flatfish

If you fancy ‘being local’, then try the 21-day balut egg, a street food where you are eating said dish just before the duckling inside is almost ready to hatch. The Philippines is nudi central

DUMAGUETE, NEGROS ISLAND

Dumaguete is another great all-round destination, but is more biased towards muck diving than some of the others. The Dauin coast, where Dumaguete is located, runs along the south east of Negros island. The coastline is dotted with resorts and many have their own house reefs. Here, black sand slopes are par for the course. Some rubble slopes commonplace, as are excellent guides who really cater to are exceedingly good for octopuses, while one site ‘Tyres’ their client’s requests. I was glad to see that the guides were is well known for an abundance of frogfish. I have been to careful not to disturb and manipulate the animals, although Dumaguete several times and each time there has been an it’s always worth mentioning to your guide if they are more abundance of a certain animal. The first time I saw nearly 50 hands on than is good for the critter. ghost pipefish, then the next trip I counted as many frogfish The Philippines has quickly become one of the mostduring my ten-day stay. There are other interesting indigenous popular dive destinations in the world, and for good reason. creatures that piqued my interest too, including the yellow Whether you enjoy diving for critters, or a healthy bustling dottyback and rare fairy/flasher wrasses. reef this is the place for you. Easy international access and Apo Island is a popular day trip from Dumaguete. The island flights also help, and the Philippines can be reached relatively is a marine park, and surrounded by rich coral reefs. Among cheaply. There is definitely something for everyone in the the fields of hard corals there are the usual coral reef fish Philippines. n species, plus turtles and some pelagics such as trevallies. It’s the only place I have ever seen the big-lipped damselfish, which looks Blenny putting on a display like a fish version of Angelina Jolie. Currents can be strong at some sites and visibility is variable. Siquijor Island is another day trip option with reef walls, should you wish for a distraction from muck diving. Some of the resorts in the Dumaguete area are really raising the bar regarding the services they offer. They have brilliant spas with great massages, amazing dining options, various tours and activities plus you can even take a yoga course at one. Well-equipped camera rooms are becoming Healthy reefs teeming with life

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Puerto Galera Philippines

Photo Credits: Boaz Samorai

APEKS LUNA MINI | SRP: AUD$560 Mark Evans: For 2021, Apeks Diving Equipment is making inroads into several new sectors, including torches. Along with the Luna Mini tested here, there is also the Luna, which is designed as a primary torch, and the Luna Pro, which is aimed at technical and advanced divers wanting ultimate brightness and power. However, let’s concentrate on the Luna Mini, as I can see this being the best seller for Apeks. Everyone should have a back-up torch with them, whether they dive in this country or when they go on a diving holiday. A back-up torch can live in your BCD or drysuit pocket, or the pocket on your Tech shorts, and then it is there when you need it, be that for poking around under an overhang or ledge, peeking into nooks and crannies, or looking inside a shipwreck. It is also handy to have it with you for emergencies - there have been several high-profile incidents where divers were drifting for hours after getting separated from their dive boat and they were discovered because one or more of the group had a dive light with them. The Luna actually has an SOS strobe function. A small dive light like the Luna Mini is also ideal for night diving in the tropics. It still astounds me that people use monster primary lights designed for use in deep or

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murky waters as their light source when on a night dive in warm water locations such as the Caribbean, the Red Sea or the Maldives. These simply obliterate the darkness and anything out and about as a night-time denizen will either scarper sharpish or be fried in the brightness. It is much better to use a small back-up torch on a night dive in these locations, as it provides more than enough illumination so you can see where you are going, but the beam is not wide and bright enough to bother the marine life. The Luna Mini is absolutely perfect as a tropical night-dive light. The Luna Mini is made from marine-grade aluminium and comes in four eye-catching colours - well, three vibrant colours (orange, green and purple) and grey, for the shrinking violets. It has an XPL2 white LED, which has a spot beam angle of 16 degrees and at maximum power, puts out 1,000 lumens. It may be small, but it sits nicely in a gloved hand, and the button on the back to turn it on and off is easy to operate even when you have got thick neoprene or drygloves on. This button is also used to cycle through the three power settings. At full power you get a run time of about one and a half hours, on medium about three hours, and on low power setting, about six hours. It takes approximately four hours to recharge. It is a fully sealed unit, so there are no O-rings to worry about, and to charge the lithium-ion battery, you simply attach a charging cable to the butt. The Luna Mini is also equipped with ITM (Intelligent Thermal Management), which is patented circuitry within the light that reduces the power to the LEDs if they go beyond the optimum temperature, keeping the light as efficient as possible to maximise output and battery capacity. It comes in a nifty zippered and padded case, which keeps the torch itself and the charging cable safe and in one place. So that all sounds amazing, right? There has to be a downside. Well, there is, and it is that price. $650 for a back-up torch is a lot of money for most people, however, it has to be said that the Mini Luna is exceptionally well made, robust and bright. And who doesn’t want to put a little colour back into their (dive)life? If you can afford to. www.apeksdiving.com/au

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AQUALUNG i330R | SRP: AUD$650 Aqualung say that the i330R is ‘the ideal choice for advanced divers who love exploring the world and need to rely on their dive computers anywhere they are’. One thing is for certain, £269 for a full-colour, multi-mix, rechargeable computer is a cracking deal. The i330R is very compact for a wrist-mounted computer, but it has a bright colour screen that is easy to read in low vis, in bright sunlight and at night. It is powered by a rechargeable battery that gives about 30 hours runtime, and it quickly and easily charged via a USB cable and magnetic clip. It has four modes – air, nitrox, freedive and gauge – and can handle up to three nitrox mixes from 21-100 percent. Navigation though the menus is simple via the two push buttons on the right-hand side. Once you return from your dive, you can download your logs direct on to your smartphone or tablet via Bluetooth. It is fitted with a NATO-style webbing strap, which is tough and durable, but also looks cool. www.aqualung.com/au

QYSEA FIFISH V6 UNDERWATER DRONE | SRP: AUD$2999 The Fifish V6 integrates VR smart technology that fully immerses the user into the underwater world with the head tracking feature - put yourself into the drone’s firstperson-view and control where you want to go simply by turning your head. One of the most-important features of the QYSEA Fifish V6 Professional Underwater Drone Kit (100m) with VR Head Tracking, is its movement ability. QYSEA Fifish V6 gives you a complete six levels of freedom. It can move laterally, forward, backward, up, down, as well as roll, pan, and tilt, thanks to the six thrusters that the V6 has. Another outstanding feature of the Fifish V6 is the posture lock. Posture lock means that you can lock the posture of the V6 within a precision of 1 degree and 5cm of depth accuracy. You can lock it, and while keeping that posture, you can move the V6 freely to any direction. The Fifish V6 has an outstanding underwater image, using an underwater image algorithm and colour rendition, along with their 1/2.3” sensor it will provide you with a great underwater image. The Fifish V6 has, in addition, an interactive video sharing for social media platforms, including live streaming. And in case you send out the Fifish V6 to darker places, the V6 has two

strong led lights to light up the scene for you. Each LED light is 2,000 lumens, giving you a strong 4,000 lumens all together. It is sold and distributed in Australia exclusively through Underwater Australasia. www.underwater.com.au

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SUUNTO EON STEEL BLACK | SRP: AUD$1,349 Suunto say that the EON Steel Black is the ultimate dive companion for divers demanding the most. The EON Steel Black is designed to give you the freedom to tailor your dive computer to fit your diving needs. Choose between different views or select dive details you want to see during your dive. Intuitive menus and a simple three-button layout make it very easy to use despite the many options available. Equipped with two dive algorithms – Suunto Fused RGBM 2 and Bühlmann 16 GF - and configurable ascent profiles, you decide what is your decompression profile for today’s dive. The Suunto EON Steel Black comes with a stylish brushed stainless steel bezel and a vivid high contrast screen easy to read even in low light conditions. The long-lasting battery endures even the toughest diving conditions, and with a full charge, provides up to 40 hours of diving. Put to the test in the toughest diving conditions by Suunto’s internal dive team on hundreds of dives - the Steel Black is functional, accurate, and built to take a beating. The reusable storage case and user updatable software, Suunto EON Steel Black is your trusted diving companion for years to come. Transfer your dive logs easily over Bluetooth to your mobile phone. In the Suunto app, you can relive, and share your diving adventures, build an all-inclusive dive history by enriching your dive logs with photos, comments and dive location. Review and analyze your dive data including dive time, maximum depth, device settings and gas consumption (when using Suunto Tank POD). Follow your gas pressure conveniently straight from your wrist. Get tank pressure on your display wirelessly by pairing your Suunto EON Steel Black with Suunto Tank POD before diving. You can connect up to 20 PODs. www.suunto.com

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We produce Scuba Diver with one in thing in mind – keeping certified divers enthused and actively diving, and inspiring the next generation to take the plunge. The best way to do that is on the front line - through the dive stores - and we want to help YOU retain your existing customers and gain some new ones! Get people used to collecting Scuba Diver from your store. Let them know when the latest issue is available via your social media, and drive more foot-traffic through your door – remember, every person stopping by to pick up a magazine is another potential course or equipment sale.

Use the magazines to your advantage – include a few copies with every manual on courses, get them even more inspired and excited to go diving before even hitting the water. Want to attract new divers to your store? We provide stickers to go on the cover of the magazines where you can put your store details and then hand out copies at local dentists, doctors, social centers, and so on.

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RAJA AMPAT

Queensland’s tropical north is the place many of us first discovered the Great Barrier Reef. From Cairns or Port Douglas, this is the closest jump-off point to the outer reef for a day trip or liveaboard expedition

Jean-Pierre Nathrass showcases some of the marine life you can expect to encounter on dives around Raja Ampat, and talks about the friendly local people PHOTOGRAPHS BY ADRIAN STACEY, JEAN-PIERRE NATHRASS AND MERIDIAN DIVE ADVENTURES

THE TROPICAL NORTH’S Want to know the best spots to dive on the Great Barrier Reef? In this twopart feature, Deborah Dickson-Smith asked Master Reef Guides to choose their top 12 dives on this iconic dive location PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHELLE BARRY, LILY BUCHANAN AND ANDREW WATSON

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ocated along the edge of the Bismarck Archipelago, the province of New Ireland forms the eastern flank of Papua New Guinea. It is quite remote from the main island of New Guinea and the province has its own distinct and remarkably interesting traditional cultures. It is also world renowned for its fabulous malagan carvings and tatanua masks, together with its kulap sculptures and overall, the province offers an experience that really is quite different to the rest of PNG. The province consists of the large, musket-shaped island of New Ireland, which is also known as Latangai, together with numerous other smaller islands - the largest of which is New Hanover. The diving in New Ireland is centred around Kavieng, the main town and regional capital and also has its own distinct flavour, compared to the other main locations in Papua New Guinea like Milne Bay and Kimbe Bay. On offer is a broad smorgasbord of diving – with shipwrecks, World War Two aircraft wrecks, dramatic walls, dynamic channels, bustling reefs and schooling pelagics. Above water Kavieng is a laidback and friendly place with an interesting colonial and World War Two history that is often described as a typical ‘Somerset Maugham South Sea island port’.

Byron Conroy and Lena Kavender soak up the atmosphere on the five-star luxury You and Me by Cocoon Maldives resort, and find it simply stunning both above and below the surface PHOTOGRAPHS BY BYRON CONROY

KAVIENG

Mention Kavieng among any group of experienced scuba divers and you will quickly discern four key themes - wrecks, big currents, schooling pelagics and clear blue water. A quick look at the map, combined with a basic awareness of oceanography, will tell you why… Located as it along the eastern rim of the Bismarck Archipelago, the long, thin, riflelike shape of New Ireland forms a natural barrier between the rich deep waters of the Pacific Ocean to the north and east. And those of the Bismarck Sea to the west.

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It is also very much an integral part of the Coral Triangle widely recognised as the area of greatest marine biodiversity in the world. Because of that physical location, the island’s coastline is exposed to a complex mix of oceanic, equatorial and regional currents. Kavieng’s position means that it sits on the very nexus of those powerful water flows, which circulate back and forth through the channels between New Ireland and nearby New Hanover. Those currents and the sheer biodiversity of the Coral Triangle combine to make diving Kavieng one of the absolute must-do diving locations in Papua New Guinea. Simply stated… the area has a great combination of wrecks, reefs, coral gardens, big fish and muck diving.

TWO SIDES OF THE SAME COIN!

Diving around Kavieng can really be thought of as two distinct and separate areas. The first being the sites on the Pacific Ocean side of New Ireland, around the actual town, which are principally wreck sites… Mainly World War Two aircraft, but there is also the wreck of a former Taiwanese fishing boat, the Der Yang. Then there are the dive sites to the south on the Bismarck Sea side of the island and, just to keep life interesting… when one side is at its best, the other is probably not!

New Ireland

Scuba Diver Senior Travel Editor Don Silcock continues his series focusing on Papua New Guinea, in this article concentrating on New Ireland PHOTOGRAPHS BY DON SILCOCK

WHALESHARK project

SPIDER CRABS of Melbourne

ong before garnering global attention through David Attenborough’s Blue Planet 2, the annual Australian great spider crab moulting aggregations in the shallows of Melbourne’s Port Phillip Bay in winter were one of the marine world’s most-carefully guarded secrets. Technically, they are Leptomithrax gaimardii, also known as the Australian giant spider crab. However, this layman’s misnomer conjures images of the enormous Japanese spider crabs, almost the size of a human. The great spider crab is closer to the size of a large human hand, not quite doubling in size after the crabs have moulted en masse in the shallow waters of Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula. The greatness of this natural phenomenon lies in the critical mass of crabs gathering in water 1m-5m depth at the most-vulnerable stage of their life cycle. A full moon in winter - when the water temperature has dropped below 15 degrees C - can trigger tens of thousands of these enigmatic crustaceans to moult from their old shells over a duration of one to two weeks (It’s an epic season for natural phenomenon on Australia’s southern coast, the appearance of the spider crabs coinciding with the giant cuttlefish mating aggregations in South Australia).

Every year, Melbourne’s Port Phillip Bay is the location of the gigantic aggregations of moulting spider crabs, as PT Hirschfield explains PHOTOGRAPHS BY PT HIRSCHFIELD, MATTHEW ROBERTS, MARCIA RIEDERER, BRYCE NICHOL AND JANE HEADLEY

ast year was tough. The COVID-19 pandemic has affected everyone in some way or form. When COVID first started to spread, international borders started shutting very quickly to stop the spread. If you were overseas away from your home country, you had to scramble to make a flight back before the borders were closed (unfortunately, some did not make it in time and are still trying to make it home…) The GWSP’s research trip was scheduled for June 2020, but as COVID-19 started to spread and international travel restrictions began to take hold, it was uncertain whether it would run. With several months waiting to see what would happen, there started to be a window of opportunity in July, as travel was just starting to be opened between Ecuador, the US and the Galapagos. They decided to push for July, but the permit and permission came through late, so the trip had to be rescheduled for August. Luckily at this time, the borders between the USA, Ecuador and the Galapagos were open, but not for most parts of the world, which meant their partners from AUS, NZ, US and Japan could not make it.

GALAPAGOS

The Galapagos Whaleshark Project conducted a research trip during the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020, but as Terry Smith from Pelagic Dive Travel explains, organising it was not a simple matter PHOTOGRAPHS BY GALAPAGOS WHALESHARK PROJECT

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MORE THAN JUST BIG SCHOOLS OF FISH!

Many crabs will become victims of their natural predators including massive smooth rays, sea birds, octopus and more - either as they emerge in their new soft-shell form, or in the days it takes their new shells to harden. Safety in numbers is essential for a critical mass to survive the moulting process, before those who survive their transformation return to the depths of the bay. In-water observation of the annual moulting aggregations at iconic piers is a long-standing cultural tradition among the Australian and broader dive community. Despite Port Phillip Bay being 1,930 square km, avid shore divers frequently opt for the easy access of Mornington Peninsula’s five or six most-diveable piers. Two of these in particular - Blairgowrie Marina and Rye Pier, which is around 500 metres long - have attracted large annual aggregations of spider crabs for decades. Of course, the crabs can gather and moult anywhere in the bay, but the piers are where they are most accessible to nature loving humans, and in more recent years, extremely vulnerable to ‘fish in a barrel’ style harvesting. For decades, reported sightings of growing numbers of the spider crabs ‘on the march’ - often starting around January - would spread through the dive community’s grapevine, prompting false promises that ‘the crabs are in!’ At this stage, most divers who drive decent distances at the hope of sighting the crabs are deeply disappointed. Within the space of a single dive, hundreds of crabs could be sighted at one part of the pier, only to have ’vanished’ in less than half an hour. When the crabs are ‘on the march’, spotting them without a drone or boat requires more than a good dose of ‘right place, right time’ luck. However, experienced crab trackers can recognise the purposeful movements of one or two crabs on the march, following a scratchy trail of pincer marks across the substrate through an intensifying cloud of silt to a constantly moving, ever-increasing mass.

This meant that the team numbers and the funding were down as the partners also contributed to the overall cost. A deal was stuck with a tuna-tagging programme that would help share the vessel and costs.

THE TRIP TRAVELLING IN THE PANDEMIC

Although travel was open for the team, it was a difficult trip to get there. Jon and Jenny had to travel into the US to pick up equipment, which meant a PCR test to get in, await results, a hotel stay, then back into mainland Ecuador, which meant another test (await results) and then 14 days in quarantine, then after that, over to the Galapagos for another PCR test (another wait on results) and a wait for the 72 hours for their equipment from the mainland to go through quarantine as well. Add to this the flight delays and flight restrictions compounded by the uncertainty that the borders may shut at any time, it was a hard few weeks.

ARRIVING IN THE GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

On arrival to the Galapagos in August, they noticed straight

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away how quiet it was. Jonathan first travelled to the Galapagos over 30 years ago and back then it was a small community, quiet, with no tourists and created stares from locals at ‘who are these people’. It felt like it had gone back into that time. The team did notice that the community had banded together and become self-sufficient, with the growing of their own vegetables, the interaction of community members with art fairs, making chocolate and masks. This action led back to the age-old form of bartering, a community trading with each other for their needs, a completely different feel than just relying on the tourist dollar (A positive in such a small community, hopefully, the banding and interaction of the community stays into the future as tourists return).

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After loading the vessel, they set out on their 15-day trip to their research destination of the Darwin Islands. The team was worried about the impact of the reported international fishing fleets in the area, as over 200 vessels were reported sitting outside of the Galapagos marine area plundering the ocean (The vessels were being followed by the public and had been found to switch off their marine tracking and duck into the Ecuadorian waters around the Galapagos to illegally fish). Thankfully, they didn’t encounter any vessels in the area on their way out, which could be due to the Ecuadoran navy, which had conducted a crackdown on illegal fishing, just before they arrived. Upon arrival at the dive site, they went straight to work. The goal was to tag ten whalesharks, photo ID them and take blood samples (this is conducted in a non-invasive way).

Two of these in particular Blairgowrie Marina and Rye Pier, which is around 500 metres long - have attracted large annual aggregations of spider crabs for decades 52

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AUSTRALIA NEW SOUTH WALES

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DIVE EDEN

BUNDABERG AQUA SCUBA

t: 04 1002 6990 e: diveeden@gmail.com Guided dives of the wrecks, vibrant wharves and shoreline in Eden, Merimbula and Tathra. Scuba and Freediving courses are available. www.diveeden.com.au

t: 07 4153 5761 e: Julian@aquascuba.com.au a: 17 Walla Street, Bundaberg, QLD, 4670 Bundaberg has world class wreck diving sites, access to the Southern Great Barrier Reef and the best coral reef shore diving in Queensland. www.aquascuba.com.au

FEET FIRST DIVE t: 02 4984 2092 e: enquiries@feetfirstdive.com.au a: 97 Stockton St, Nelson Bay, NSW, 2315 SDI/TDI SCUBA, Snorkelling, & Spearfishing Retail & Training Centre. Shore dives in marine sanctuary, grey nurse shark double boat dives. www.feetfirstdive.com.au

LETS GO ADVENTURES t: 02 4981 4331 e: fun@letsgoadventures.com.au a: Shop 8W, d’Albora Marina, Teramby Rd, Nelson Bay, NSW, 2315 PADI facility Introductory dives through to Instructor Courses. Guided shore & boat trips for divers & snorkellers. Retail Sales & Servicing. www.letsgoadventures.com.au

SCUBA HAVEN t: 0407 457 542 e: info@scubahaven.com.au a: 20 Merrigal Rd, Port Macquarie, NSW, 2444 SCUBA Diving Port Macquarie and Laurieton Areas. Offering Dive trips, Courses, Introductory dives, Sales and services. www.scubahaven.com.au

SOUTH WEST ROCKS DIVE CENTRE t: +612 6566 6474 e: info@swrdive.com.au a: 98 Gregory Street, South West Rocks, NSW Australia’s best Shark and Cave dive. Family owned and operated for over 40 Years. swrdive.com.au

ST GEORGE UNDERWATER CENTRE t: 61 2 9502 2221 e: info@stgeorgeunderwater.com.au a: 1/148 Bellevue Parade, Carlton, NSW, 2218 We have been in the industry for over 62 years. We are a TDI SDI 5 star training centre. We service, train and travel. www.stgeorgeunderwater.com.au

WINDANG DIVE & SPEARFISHING t: 02 4296 4215 e: info@windangdive.com.au a: Shop 1, 239 Windang Road, Windang, NSW, 2528 Scuba Diving Courses to Instructor. Spearfishing needs and servicing of all brands of scuba and spearfishing. www.windangdive.com.au

LADY ELLIOT ISLAND ECO RESORT t: +61 7 5536 3644 e: reservations@ladyelliot.com.au a: Lady Elliot Island, Southern Great Barrier Reef, QLD Lady Elliot Island ‘Home of the Manta Ray’ boasts 20 incredible dive sites and is renowned for amazing marine encounters. www.ladyelliot.com.au

MANTA LODGE AND SCUBA CENTRE t: 07 34098888 e: info@mantalodge.com.au a: 132 Dickson way, Point Lookout, QLD 4183 Amazing diving all year round. Manta Rays, Sharks, turtles and whales along with a huge variety of marine life. www.mantalodge.com.au

OZAQUATEC SCUBA SERVICE CENTRE t: 07 3399 1413 e: admin@ozaquatec.com a: 4/89 Gosport St, Hemmant QLD 4171 Brisbane’s largest SCUBA servicing centre. Servicing all brands of SCUBA gear, Air/Nitrox fills and SAI Global accredited Test Station for all your tank hydro needs. www.ozaquatec.com.au

PASSIONS OF PARADISE t: 07 4041 1600 e: Reservations@passions.com.au a: Reef Fleet Terminal, 1 Spence Street, Cairns, QLD Dive, snorkel and sail the Great Barrier Reef from Cairns onboard a sailing catamaran with locally owned Passions of Paradise. www.passions.com.au

SCUBA WORLD t: 07 5444 8595 e: info@scubaworld.com.au a: 207 Brisbane Road, Mooloolaba, 4557 QLD, Australia We create safe, comfortable, enthusiastic divers who always have a fun, personal and enjoyable experience at Scuba World. scubaworld.com.au

TASMANIA EAGLEHAWK DIVE CENTRE t: 0417013518 e: info@eaglehawkdive.com.au a: 178 Pirates Bay Drive, Eaglehawk Neck, TAS, 7179 We have world-class temperate water diving, with sites suitable for divers with skill levels from novice to advanced technical. www.eaglehawkdive.com.au

SOUTH AUSTRALIA RODNEY FOX SHARK EXPEDITIONS t: 08 8363 1788 e: expeditions@rodneyfox.com.au a: 107 Henley Beach Road, Mile End, SA, 5031 Great white sharks, SCUBA, Ocean Floor Cage, Surface Cage, Australian Sea Lions and our own wine all on the 32m liveaboard MV Rodney Fox! www.rodneyfox.com.au

WESTERN AUSTRALIA OCTOPUS GARDEN DIVE CHARTERS t: 0438925011 e: kimroyce@gateway.net.au a: Casuarina Boat Harbour, Bunbury, Western Australia, 6230 Wreck & reef diving (small groups, min 2/max 11). Photographers paradise. Hire gear available. Prolific fish life. 10-18 metres. www.octopusgardendivecharters.com.au

SOUTHCOAST DIVING SUPPLIES t: 08 98417176 e: whale@divealbany.com.au a: 84b Serpentine Road, Albany, Western Australia, 6330 Diving Albany means diving anything from wrecks to reef, plunging drop offs to awesome canyons with unbelievable colours and fishlife. www.divealbany.com.au

VICTORIA ALL ABOUT SCUBA t: (03) 9939 4913 e: info@allaboutscuba.com.au a: Unit 17/30-34 Maffra Street, Coolaroo, Victoria, 3048 A fully equipped SCUBA service centre with a passion for servicing so we can safely explore the underwater world! www.allaboutscuba.com.au

DIVE GEAR AUSTRALIA t: 03 9702 3694 e: sales@divegearaustralia.com.au a: 11/53-57 Rimfire Drive, Hallam, Victoria, 3803 DGA is a PADI 5 star training dive store with a huge range of scuba diving, snorkelling and spearfishing gear. www.divegearaustralia.com.au

SCUBA CULTURE PTY LTD t: 03 9808 0033 e: info@scubaculture.com.au a: 117 Highbury Road, Burwood, Victoria 3125 Full service dive shop providing equipment sales, service, hire, training, dive club, dive travel and air/ nitrox fills. www.scubaculture.com.au

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NEW ZEALAND SOUTHLAND

AUCKLAND AQUATECH

WAIHEKE DIVE & SNORKEL

t: +64 2156 3563 e: servicing1@yahoo.com a: 4 WOULDBANK Way, Welcome Bay Aquatech is a scuba service centre. We service scuba regulators / full face masks / oxygen regulators. Underwater Scooters. www.aquatech.kiwi.nz

t: +64 9217 4892 e: info@waihekedive.com a: 110 Ocean View Road, Oneroa, Waiheke Island, Auckland, NZ, 1081 NZ’s most fun little dive shop! We’re your choice for online retail, diving & snorkeling adventures – just 35 mins from Auckland CBD! www.waihekedive.com

DESCEND NZ – MILFORD SOUND t: +64 (0)27 337 2363 e: info@descend.co.nz a: Deepwater Basin Milford Sound – bookings essential Dive in the majestic and unique Milford Sound where deepwater species such as black coral live in diveable depths. www.descend.co.nz

DIVE DOCTOR t: +09 530 8117 e: info@divedoctor.co.nz a: 20R Sylvia Park Rd, Mt Wellington. (1 min off the M’way) Scuba servicing centre – all brands. Wide range of products and hard to find items instore and online. 300 Bar fills, NITROX, O2. Quality dive training. www.divedoctor.co.nz

DIVING ACADEMY LTD (AUCKLAND SCUBA) t: +64 9478 2814 e: info@aucklandscuba.co.nz a: 49B Arrenway Drive, Auckland 5* PADI centre, beginner to Instructor courses (student loan approved), quality equipment retail, rebreathers, scooters, dive trips, servicing, air fills. www.aucklandscuba.co.nz

GLOBAL DIVE t: +64 9920 5200 e: info@globaldive.net a: 132 Beaumont Street, Westhaven, Auckland, 1010, New Zealand NZ’s Premium Dive Store. Leaders in Training, Servicing and Travel. Home of Fourth Element, OMS, Shearwater, XDeep, Light&Motion, DUI, Cinebags. www.globaldive.net

KIWI DIVERS NZ LTD t: 09 426 9834 e: info@kiwiscubadivers.co.nz a: 8 Keith Hay Court, Silverdale, Auckland, New Zealand Air, Nitrox & Trimix fills. SSI & TDI Rec, Tech & Rebreather courses. 2 dive boats. Brands: Hollis, Oceanic, Zeagle, Atomic, Bare/Stahlsac service centre. www.kiwiscubadivers.co.nz

ADVERTISE YOUR BUSINESS HERE NEXT ISSUE! Contact Adrian on +61 422 611 238 or email adrian@scubadivermag.com

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CANTERBURY DIVE HQ CHRISTCHURCH t: +64 3379 5804 e: sales@divehqscuba.co.nz a: 103 Durham Street South, Sydenham, Christchurch South Island’s Premium Dive Centre, Specialists in Scuba Diving, Spearfishing & Freediving. Brands: Hollis, Oceanic, Atomic, Zeagle, Beuchat, Bare & Rob Allen. www.divehqscuba.co.nz

MARLBOROUGH GO DIVE PACIFIC t: 0274 344 874 e: info@godivepacific.nz a: 66 Wellington Street, Picton, Marlborough, New Zealand Dive one of the biggest cruise ship wrecks in the world, the Mikhail Lermontov, suitable for recreational to advanced technical divers. www.godivepacific.co.nz

WAIKATO DIVE ZONE WHITIANGA t: +64 7867 1580 e: info@divethecoromandel.co.nz a: 10 Campbell Street, Whitianga 3510, New Zealand Dive charters, training, service and retail store. Many and varied dive spots. Beautiful coastal town location. Offshore islands & Marine Reserve. www.divezonewhitianga.co.nz

WELLINGTON DIVE WELLINGTON t: 04 939 3483 e: dive@divewellington.co.nz a: 432 The Esplanade Island Bay, Wellington, New Zealand Wellington’s Padi 5 Star Centre, right across the road from Taputeranga Marine Reserve. Come and dive or snorkel with us. www.divewellington.co.nz

NORTHLAND DIVE NOW t: 09 438 1075 e: info@divenow.co.nz a: 41 Clyde St, Whangarei We’re Northland’s largest SCUBA, Spearfishing & Freedive retail store offering great deals on gear along with SCUBA and Freedive courses. www.divenow.co.nz

Q&A: WAYNE B BROWN

ROTTNEST IS CALLING WHY ROTTNEST ISLAND HAS PLENTY TO OFFER THE VISITING DIVER

SUBAQUA DIVE CENTRE t: 09 988 9508 e: subaquadivecentrenz@gmail.com a: 108 Cameron Street, Whangarei, NZ Friendliest dive shop in town. Stocker of Hollis, Ratio Dive computers, Atomic Aquatics, Bare, Oceanic and Zeagle. www.facebook.com/subaquadivewhangarei

TOP-OF-THE-RANGE RATED AND REVIEWED BY THE TEST TEAM

LIFE THE LIVEABOARD LYRICAL ABOUT

GEAR GUIDE: MASKS

SUDAN ODYSSEY

EXPLORING THE REMNANTS OF COUSTEAU’S PRECONTINENT II EXPERIMENT

SULTANATE OF OMAN

THE TEST TEAM RATE AND

MELBOURNE A RANGE OF REVIEW MAGIC NIGEL MARSH MASKS DIVING DIVES THE PIERS AROUND PORT PHILLIP BAY

TALKING SHARKS

INFORMATIVE QUESTION & ANSWER WITH GREAT WHITE EXPERT ANDREW FOX

TEST EXTRA SPECIAL RETRA FLASH PRO AND DIVE RITE XT FINS RATED AND REVIEWED

Dive into

PNG Don Silcock waxes lyrical about Papua New Guinea’s underwater

DISCOVERING WHERE SMALL THINGS ROAM IN THE PHILIPPINES

PAIHIA DIVE t: +64 9402 7551 e: info@divenz.com a: 7 Williams Rd, Paihia 0247, New Zealand We run daily trips to the Canterbury wreck, The Rainbow Warrior wreck and reef sites in the Bay of Islands. www.divenz.com

TO AGGRESSOR WE CHAT IN OMAN ADVENTURE GEAR GUIDE GROUP TEST ADVENTURES ABOUT WAXES STACEY ADRIANCEO REGS

delights

Over the

RAINBOW

Exploring New Zealand’s Rainbow Warrior wreck

THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

HOW TO COMPOSE THE PERFECT PHHEADS OUT ADRIAN STACEY DOLPHIN PHOTOGRA

New Zealand

ON A DAYBOAT TO THE ICONIC REEF

‣ Q&A: Orkney and Shetland Charters

DAN COLUMN

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EXPLORING NEW ZEALAND’S POOR KNIGHT ISLANDS UW photography

‣ Pete Mesley Q&A, pt II ‣ Sabah, Borneo

‣ CONSERVATION ‣ UW PHOTOGRAPHY

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Coral Gardeners in the islands of Tahiti

he Coral Gardeners is a group of young ocean lovers based on the French Polynesian island of Moorea, who could see the damage done to the reefs in the waters they call home and decided to something about it. The founder Titouan and his team of surfers, freedivers and fishermen are actively working to restore the corals through a programme of regeneration. Researchers have estimated that if we don’t do anything about it, there will be no more corals on Earth by 2050 and if nothing is done, it will be the first ecosystem on Earth to entirely collapse, dragging with it the loss of 25 percent of marine life that rely on them. The world’s coral reefs produce 50 percent of the Earth’s oxygen and 500 million people worldwide directly rely on the reef for food, income, coastal protection and more. With this tight deadline, the Coral Gardeners have taken it upon themselves to be real heroes and are really amping up their work in the next few years. The company is celebrating their fourth anniversary this year and have during these years planted 15,000 corals in The Islands of Tahiti. They recently announced

their goal to expand beyond Tahiti’s reefs and to plant one million (!) corals worldwide by 2025. They have also introduced a new type of coral they use for their nurseries, called super corals that are more resilient and have proven to resist and survive hot water temperatures and bleaching events. Amidst these extreme conditions, these resilient corals are still thriving and should hypothetically spawn. You can see the results on how their coral adoption programme has improved the reefs in the past years from the photographs, showing what a massive difference their work can do to save the reefs. Adopting a super coral cost approx $60 (€39) and can be purchased through their website: www.coralgardeners.org

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SIMON LORENZ | INSIDER DIVERS

Scuba Diver ANZ #36

Articles inside

The Philippines

Test Extra

Conservation Corner

Australia

Divers Alert Network Asia-Pacific

Underwater Photography

The Maldives

Australia

Medical Q&A

Indonesia

Wreck Hunter