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CONTRIBUTORS
Over the past month I have had the pleasure of talking to many dive centres both here, in Australia, and across the Tasman in New Zealand, and I have to say that the general feeling from those I spoke to is one of reserved optimism. The extension of the job keeper and job seeker programmes has instilled a new confidence in the general public, for now at least, and the fact that we are confined to our respective shores has made people look closer to home for their next holiday. For the adventurers and the thrill-seekers among us, who can no longer go hiking to Everest base camp, trekking to Machu Picchu, exploring the jungles of the Amazon or safari in the Serengeti, diving seems to be a great alternative. Dive shops are reporting an increase of interest in diving courses, and with so many great dive locations on our doorstep, where better place to start. While not up to full capacity, even operations that previously relied heavily on international tourism are resuming trips and adapting to the situation. In Cairns, for instance, the liveaboard companies are tailoring their dive itineraries and offering more exploration-style diving. At the same time, other shorebased companies are developing programmes, especially for younger children. After the positive response from our article in issue 23 about diving in Australia, we thought we would do the same for New Zealand. So, in this issue we highlight some of the best diving that New Zealand has to offer. We also have a feature on Rottnest Island in Western Australia, and for our tech divers, the second instalment of cave diving in Sulawesi. Plus, some great equipment reviews and in the conservation section, an interesting article on the giant cuttlefish of South Australia.
Adrian Stacey Editor-at-Large (Australia and New Zealand)
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8 News
18 Australia
The largest coral reef survey and mapping expedition in history takes place in the Solomon Islands, a marine biologist’s theory on why so many shark attacks have happened recently, an update on Project Manta, the launch of the DiveViz App, Emperor Divers prepare to reopen in Egypt and the Maldives, and new Facebook group Young Divers International aims to inspire youthful divers to take the plunge.
16 Medical Q&A
The experts at Divers Alert Network Asia-Pacific discuss tight wetsuits and hand irritation.
66 Conservation Corner
Conservation projects in and around Australia, New Zealand and Southeast Asia - this issue, the Cuttlefish Alliance takes centre stage.
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Perth Scuba’s Lee Johnson waxes lyrical about the underwater delights of Rottnest Island, which sits just offshore from the city of Perth, some 18km from Freemantle. It covers an area of just 19 sq km, and is home to a population of quokkas, but it is underwater where it really grabs your attention - beneath the surface, expect impressive grey nurse sharks, inviting caves and caverns, jaw-droppingly vast shoals of fish, and more.
26 The Sultanate of Oman
Back when Adrian Stacey was living in Blighty, he stopped off in Oman enroute back home after a six-month stint working as a dive instructor in Thailand and found some impressive diving worthy of those looking for adventure, particularly around the capital, Muscat.
32 New Zealand
New Zealand is famous for its stunning landscapes, rugby, and The Lord of the Rings. However, the world beneath the surface of this rich and diverse country is every bit as spectacular as anything that JRR Tolkien could imagine.
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CONTENTS
...CONTINUED
GEAR GUIDE
40 Underwater Photography
54 What’s New
44 Q&A: Hazel Weaver and Helen Hadley
56 Group Test: Regulators
Underwater photography guru Mario Vitalini turns his attentions to one of the most-charismatic of underwater creatures - the dolphin and explains the best ways to capture these inquisitive, sometimes extremely fast-moving mammals.
The hallowed grounds of Scapa Flow arew rightly considered a diving Mecca for wreck fanatics. We chat to seasoned Orkney skippers Hazel Weaver and Helen Hadley about German battleships, expeditions to the Shetland Islands - and scrumptious food.
48 TECH: Indonesia, part two
Crack cave diving team Maria Bollerup, Rasmus Dysted and Pete Mesley continue their search for undiscovered and unxplored cave systems in remote parts of Sulawesi, Indonesia.
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Round-up of new products, including the Aqua Lung Omni BCD, Mares Pure Wire mask, Fourth Element OceanPositive face masks, and Santi Diving apres-dive wear.
This issue we return with our latest group test, and we are looking at top-of-the-range regulators from all of the major manufacturers.
64 Test Extra
Mark Evans is among the first reviewers to test dive the brand-new Shearwater Research Peregrine dive computer, and he thinks the price point on the unit makes it a force to be reckoned with.
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Each month, we bring together the latest industry news from the Asia-Pacific region, as well as all over our water planet. To find out the most up-to-date news and views, check out the website or follow us on our various social media (@scubadivermag) www.scubadivermag.com.au
SURVEY OF SOLOMON
ISLANDS’ CORAL REEFS The Khaled bin Sultan Living Oceans Foundation releases their latest findings from the largest coral reef survey and mapping expedition in history
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cientists at the Khaled bin Sultan Living Oceans Foundation (KSLOF) have published a report on the status of coral reefs in the Solomon Islands. The Global Reef Expedition: Solomon Islands Final Report summarizes the foundation’s findings from a monumental research mission to study corals and reef fish in the Solomon Islands and provides recommendations on how to preserve these precious ecosystems into the future. Over the course of five years, KSLOF’s Global Reef Expedition circumnavigated the globe collecting valuable baseline data on coral reefs to address the coral reef crisis. In 2014, the Global Reef Expedition arrived in the Solomon Islands, where an international team of scientists, local experts, and government officials spent more than a month at sea surveying the reefs and creating detailed habitat and bathymetric maps of the seafloor. Together, they conducted over 1,000 standardized surveys of coral reefs and reef fish in the Western, Isabel, and Temotu Provinces, and created maps for over 3,000 km2 of coastal marine habitats in the Solomon Islands. What they found were impressive reefs covered with abundant and diverse coral communities, but few fish. Most of the big fish were gone, and many of the nearshore reefs appeared to be overfished. There was also evidence of damage to reefs from a prior tsunami, and scars on the reef from predatory crown-of-thorns starfish, which had eaten away large patches of living coral. “Our most alarming finding was the overall lack of fish, particularly on reefs near coastal communities,” said Renée Carlton, a Marine Ecologist at the Living Oceans Foundation and lead author on the report. “Overfishing not only impacts on the amount of fish on the reef, but it also impacts the
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Photography © Khaled bin Sultan Living Oceans Foundation
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coral community as well as people who rely on the fish for food and income. By prioritizing local management and taking steps now to protect the reefs and reduce fishing pressure, the long-term sustainability of the reefs in the Solomon Islands can be improved to be used well into the future.” Although several years have passed since the expedition, the data from this research mission will be critical for monitoring changes to the reefs over time. Data from the research mission can also inform management plans to conserve critical marine habitats in the Solomon Islands and help marine managers identify which areas may require additional protection. Many of the sites visited on the expedition were remote and under-studied, so not much was known about the state of these reefs before this research mission. Because Prince Khaled bin Sultan donated the use of yacht - the M/Y Golden Shadow - for the Global Reef Expedition, the research team was able to access remote and otherwise inaccessible research sites far from port. These remote reefs in the Solomon Islands were generally healthier and in better shape than those near coastal communities and had some of the highest coral diversity observed anywhere on the Global Reef Expedition. “The coral communities on reefs surrounding the Solomon Islands were simply stunning. It was a privilege for the Living Oceans Foundation to visit them and collect a broad portfolio of data, in the field and from satellite, which can be used to set a baseline condition for the country’s reefs against which change can be tracked,” said Dr Sam Purkis, KSLOF’s Chief Scientist as well as Professor and Chair of the Department of Marine Geosciences at the University of Miami’s Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric Science. Dr Purkis and his team used a combination of satellite data, depth soundings, and field observations to make detailed maps of the reef down to a two-square-metre scale. These are some of the highest-resolution bathymetric and habitat maps ever created of the Solomon Islands. They identify the location and extent of reefs surveyed by KSLOF in the Solomon Islands, as well as other important coastal marine habitats such as mangrove forests and seagrass beds. These maps can be explored on the foundation’s website at LOF.org, and can also be used by marine managers, scientists, and conservation organizations to track changes to the reefs over time. “This report provides the people of the Solomon Islands with relevant information and recommendations they can use to effectively manage their reefs and coastal marine resources,” said Alexandra Dempsey, the Director of Science Management at KSLOF and one of the report’s authors. “Our goal at the Khaled bin Sultan Living Oceans Foundation is to provide people with data and scientific knowledge to protect, conserve, and restore their marine ecosystems. We hope this research will encourage the Solomon Islands to consider robust marine conservation and management efforts to protect their coral reefs and nearshore fisheries before it is too late. Global Reef Expedition: Solomon Islands Final Report was published online at the end of June 2020. Detailed shallowwater habitat and bathymetric maps of coral reefs in the Solomon Islands can be viewed on the foundation’s website, lof.org
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After a recent spate of shark attacks along the east coast of Australia marine biologist, Dr Julian Pepperell has offered a theory on why so many have occurred in such a short space of time. In the past few weeks, there have been four shark attacks and three fatalities in the region. A 60-year-old man died from a shark bite while surfing near Kingscliff in NSW, another surfer, this time a 15-year-old boy, died after receiving a shark bite near Wooli also in NSW, while in Queensland a man was bitten while spearfishing and died from his injures. The fourth attack was on a woman filming a shark documentary in Cairns. The injuries were not life-threatening, the lady was taken to hospital, and some witnesses said that it was possible she was bitten by a giant trevally and not a shark. Compared to previous years, this is an unusually high number of shark attacks. There were 64 unprovoked shark attacks reported around the world in 2019, 22 percent fewer than the five-year average of 82 incidents annually. There were only five fatalities worldwide in 2019, which is around the yearly average. So why the increase in number now? Dr Pepperell said it could be because of the humpback whale migration that takes place at this time of year. He explained: “These enormous apex predators could be following whales because they provide a huge feeding opportunity when they die. The big sharks feed upon dead whales and get lots of energy and reserves from that. It stands to reason with a lot more whales, which there are, there may be a steady increase in the population of white sharks which are fully protected.” Dr Vanessa Pirotta, a marine scientist of the Macquarie University, agrees with Dr Pepperell’s theory. She said that the humpback whale population grows up to 11 percent each year and currently stands at around 35,000, adding: “When whales die and when they float they attract numbers of large sharks very quickly.” In South Africa, a great white shark has been filmed going one step future and rather than waiting for a whale to die, it has actively tried to drown the huge creature in a sustained attack. This footage might help to corroborate Dr Pepperell’s theory that the sharks are looking for whale meat.
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PROJECT MANTA RESEARCH Project Manta was founded in 2007 to investigate the population biology and ecology of manta rays in eastern Australia. Asia Armstrong explains more. The research group is comprised of a multidisciplinary team, originally based out of the University of Queensland. In 2014 the project went national, teaming up with researchers from Murdoch University and Deakin University to investigate connectivity and movement around Australian waters, and has recently shifted base to the University of the Sunshine Coast. Despite the popular interest worldwide for manta rays, very little was known about their biology and ecology until recent years. Our research project has focused its energy on the population ecology and biology of manta rays around the Australian coastline. We aim to provide important information on the life history characteristics of manta rays, which is needed to inform conservation efforts globally. The main aspects investigated are: • Population ecology (population size, structure and distribution) • Habitat use at aggregation sites • Feeding ecology (diet composition, feeding behaviour, preys’ nutritional quality etc) • Cleaning ecology (cleaning fish’s species, parasites, cleaner fish segregation, cleaning stations) Photo identification (photo-ID) is one of the key methods used in our research as individual manta rays can be differentiated by their distinctive ventral markings, comparable to human fingerprints. ‘Citizen Science’ is a major component of Project Manta for photo-ID data collection. Professional and recreational divers provide photographs and sighting information of manta rays along the entire east Australian coast. Involving the community with our research has not only led to increased public awareness about manta rays and their marine environment, but has also led to discoveries that
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would not have been possible without these contributions. Knowledge of manta ray distribution and movement patterns is vital for conservation purposes. The reef manta ray is known to occur and aggregate at several locations around the Australian coastline. However, the vast and unpopulated coastline provides challenges for research, as we simply do not have the resources to investigate the whole area. Citizen science contributions have also been able to update our knowledge about the long-distance movements of this species. In June 2018 we received photo-ID submissions of two individuals from the wreck of the SS Yongala, just south of Townsville. And both individuals had previously been sighted off North Stradbroke Island in southern QLD. This represents a 1,150km point to point movement and is the largest known distance covered by a reef manta ray. In fact, this finding almost doubles the previously documented movements for this species, which were in the region of 600-700km. This finding has potential bearing on the management of these species, as it shows they are capable of moving distances that could represent crossing borders between jurisdictions where they are subject to differing levels of protection. This finding was only possible with the help of our citizen scientist supporters. Regular updates about Project Manta’s recent discoveries and research news are distributed to the public through email, Facebook and other internet resources. If you would like to learn more, or if you have photo-ID images of manta rays from around the Australian coastline, please go to the website: https://biomedical-sciences.uq.edu.au/ project-manta
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GET UNDERWATER DIVE CONDITION FORECASTS FROM THE DIVEVIZ APP
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Innovative new DiveViz App seeks to bring consistent and accurate ocean visibility reports and forecasts. The DiveViz App is now live on both Apple and Android – head to your App Store and search ‘DiveViz’ or click on ‘get the app’ from the website: www.diveviz.com The goal of the DiveViz team is to provide the mostaccurate representation of what a dive site would be like, before having to enter the water, therefore ensuring that the millions of scuba divers and snorkellers know when to plan their dives for the most-enjoyable experience and highest safety. DiveViz is an app and algorithm to communicate accurate real-time and forecasted ocean visibility reports. The platform is a prognostic tool that will lead to more co-ordinated and timely responses to high-visibility events for the recreational, commercial, scientific, and military diving communities and improve advanced activity planning for all ocean activities. DiveViz is working to use predictive analytics and machine learning to address the numerous influences that must be accounted for in visibility forecasting, including physical factors like currents, wind, waves, storm patterns, near-shore rainfall, upwelling strength, and thermohaline circulation, as well as biological factors including algae blooms, nutrient inputs, and human activity, but without any historic ocean visibility data researchers cannot begin this analysis. DiveViz will be engaging with the recreational diving community to crowdsource the first dataset of visibility reports and, in collaboration with the Scripps Institute of Oceanography, begin refining the forecasting algorithm. Download the DiveViz App now and get involved! www.diveviz.com
CORRECTION
In issue 24, we had a great feature with some amazing photographs, on winter diving at Byron Bay. This article and the images were wrongly credited to me, Adrian Stacey, and while I would love to say that I was responsible for this fantastic feature, the author was actually the co-owner of Sundive Byron Bay, Simone Caprodossi. www.sundive.com.au
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Bunaken National Marine Park w w w.s i l a d e n.c o m
Siladen-UK half--88x262.indd 1
09/10/2019 09:04
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EMPEROR DIVERS BACK IN EGYPT AND THE MALDIVES Emperor Divers have been working hard to prepare for the arrival of guests on their liveaboards and dive centres. Following the strict regulations laid down by the local authorities and WHO, Emperor Divers are pleased to say their boats and centres have now been certified to begin operations again. “We’re pleased to have met all the requirments needed to operate and passed the Egyptian Health Authorities thorough inspections,“ said Luke Atkinson, Emperor’s General Manager in Egypt. “But to ensure we had got it right, we decided to go one step further and ran a trial trip for a few lucky guests who managed to fly in from Switzerland. It gave our crews the opportunity to train and learn best practice with a limited number of guests, which we feel was very useful.” “With flights returning to the Maldives and foreign offices easing restrictions, we ran a trip on 9 August and are now ramping up from there. Our guests can be confident our teams have been working hard to ensure best practice is being adhered to when they dive with Emperor,” said Alex Bryant, Area Manager for the Maldives. Emperor are keen to work with their guests to try and
provide the best diving experience possible but admit that, in the near- to mid-future, some compromise may be required while they combine trips to ensure as many people as possible can be catered for. As Clare Armstrong, Emperor’s Commercial Manager, pointed out: “Flight arrival days may have changed so we may have to re-route some trips to pop back into port to pick up guests but our guides will make sure no dives are missed.” The four-month pause has given the reef a good break and means divers can expect to experience some wonderful diving in the coming months. “Our ‘Fish out of Water’ social media posts have been popular,” said Luke, “but now our guides can’t wait to welcome their guests back into the water again for the real thing.” For more, visit: www.emperordivers.com
YOUNG DIVERS INTERNATIONAL FACEBOOK GROUP IS LAUNCHED A brand-new Facebook page has been launched aimed at supporting and inspiring young divers – Young Divers International. And 20-year-old dive professional Robert Thomas is calling on youthful divers to flood social media with positive scuba images and stories. Scuba Diver magazine has been running its The Next Generation section, aimed at children and teenage divers, for a few years now, as well as providing a full-page platform every issue of its UK and Australia/New Zealand publications to the Our-World Underwater Scholarship Scholars, and the team have long championed anything that brings in fresh blood into the industry, so they welcomed this new initiative. Young Divers International came about as a result of a conversation at a 2018 dive show. Robert Thomas, Grant Cook (Cobalt Diving), Greg Parker (Hidden Depths) and two of the OWUSS Scholars (Mae Dorricott and Danny Copeland) were chatting over a beer when TDI’s Mark Powell joined them. The conversation, as always, was about diving. Underwater cameraman Danny Copeland had just moved to Bristol at that time, and he was asking about people he could go diving with. Mark Powell observed that scuba diving has not always been an older person’s sport. Today’s leading lights in the industry were regularly organising shore or boat-diving trips when they, too, were young divers. Mark pointed out that he had done exactly this when he was in his early 20s. Robert Thomas has enthusiastically picked up on this idea – and the result is YDI. He stated: “We want to encourage,
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motivate and inspire young divers, and give them the tools to be able to put together their own aquatic adventures.” Robert Thomas’ first fin steps were in 2006. His father Michael took him for a snorkel and a very shallow 3m dive at Porth Quin, a small cove in north Cornwall, England. Michael Thomas is a very experienced cave diver and technical diving educator, and he realised that Robert was a bit of a water baby. Robert certainly didn’t need encouraging into the quiet cove. “I remember the bubbles feeling weird, and wanting to swim super quickly, like a torpedo. It left a lasting impression on me. I couldn’t wait to become old enough to learn to dive. “I have got a number of plans, including a website. This is an inclusive group – it doesn’t matter who you learned to dive with. The most-important thing with YDI is the diving.”
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INNOVATIVE E-COMMERCE PLATFORM BUNDLE DIVE Bundle Global has announced the launch of Dive Bonds, a new product allowing for dive operators to make sales to priceminded customers during this period of uncertainty facing the travel industry. As the dive industry worldwide reels from the fallout from the Covid-19 pandemic, many operators are looking for innovative ways to ensure cash flow in the immediate future to weather the dramatic decrease in global travel and tourism figures. To help boost revenues for associated dive partners, Bundle Dive has launched Dive Bonds. This unique product allows dive shops, liveaboards, and resorts to advertise deals in the form of vouchers that mature over time to carry more value than the purchase price. Bundle Dive is launching Dive Bonds with a pilot programme made up of Dive Partners in some of Indonesia’s most sought-after dive locations, including the Gili Islands, and Komodo National Park. Boasting some of the world’s best diving, Indonesia is home to more than 4,000 dive shops. Bundle plans to build a network of reputable operators that can help kickstart the industry in that country and the region. With a handful of operators taking part in the launch, Bundle Dive hopes to prove its philosophy of Buy Now, Dive Later as a model of how tourism can emerge from the crisis it currently faces. With major airlines such as Qantas predicting the downturn in international travel to last until at least mid-2021, intuitive solutions to encourage shortterm incomes are of pressing importance to the industry. Bundle Co-Founder Kim Guenier suggests that the company’s Dive Bonds present a solution to just what both divers and diver operators are looking for right now. “We understand the need for the dive operator to have a steady cash flow. With the current situation, there is no income, nor any foreseeable revenue. It essentially means dive operators will slowly die paying for fixed costs.” “Now from the clients’ standpoint, divers are planners. They think ahead to their next dive trip often years in advance. They are also habitual creatures. They regularly return to their favourite dive sites, and indeed favourite dive operators over and again. Providing a product that not only offers great value but rewards these core characteristics provides a win for all parties.” Customers can search companies through the e-commerce platform filtered by dive services, location, and country to purchase dive bonds to their preferred operators. Dive Bonds mature and are redeemable after 45 days with up to 50% added value for the customer. It is then up to the customer and Dive Partner to complete the transaction by making a booking some time in the next 24 months. www.bundledive.com
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MEDICAL Q&A The Divers Alert Network (DAN) is the diving industry’s largest association dedicated to scuba-diving safety. Serving divers for more than 30 years, DAN provides emergency assistance, medical information sources, educational opportunities and more. www.danap.org
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Q: I arrived home from a dive trip five days ago. The palms of my hands are itchy and red, and the right hand is worse than the left. I was careful about where I placed my hands while diving and always used the mooring line to perform my safety stops. During the week I briefly felt some itching on my right hand, but it resolved. I have no idea what is wrong. Someone suggested skin bends — is that possible? A: Based on the description of your symptoms and their location, a marine life injury is more likely than DCS. You are to be commended for being conscious of your hand placement when diving. The mooring lines are likely the source of the injury. Organisms in the hydroid family colonise mooring lines and give stings similar to those from jellyfish or other organisms that have nematocysts. It is not unusual to experience delayed symptom onset. Some divers have obvious initial symptoms that resolve and then manifest again days later. Dermatologists refer to this as a delayed hypersensitivity reaction. Topical hydrocortisone cream is a reasonable first treatment. If the symptoms do not improve within 48 hours of treatment or if they continue to worsen, see a medical professional. A more-definitive treatment is a course of oral steroids (e.g. prednisone), which requires a prescription. You or your doctor can contact DAN with any questions (medic@dan.org). Q: My wetsuit is very tight around the neck. Is this a problem? A: A correct-fitting wetsuit will fit snugly onto the skin to minimize ingress of water. But a wetsuit can be too tight, and this can lead to problems. A wetsuit that is too tight across your chest may impair your breathing, so this should be avoided. If your suit is too tight around your neck and throat, it can cause a problem called carotid sinus syndrome. This is a very dangerous condition! In your neck you have carotid arteries, delivering vital blood supplies to your brain. Within the carotid arteries are carotid sinuses, which detect changes in blood pressure. If a rise in blood pressure is detected, the reflex can lower the blood pressure and slow the heartbeat. A tight neck seal can press onto these carotid sinuses and produce a false activation of the carotid sinus reflex. The drop in blood pressure and slowed pulse will reduce blood flow to the brain. The sufferer typically becomes weak, confused, dizzy and even unconscious. The bottom line… if your neck seal is uncomfortably tight, get it altered. DANAP.org
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Diving at Rottnest Island is a fantastic experience. With over 200 dive sites available on any given day, there are just so many different features and attractions, as Lee Johnson explains PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOANNA POOL
We have a number of ‘shark caves’ around Rottnest Island and these sites are visited occasionally by dive vessel operators for divers to take photographs and video of these majestic creatures in their natural habitat WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU
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ne of Rottnest Island’s most-popular attractions is Shark Cave. Having the opportunity to dive with some amazing creatures such as grey nurse sharks is something on everyone’s bucket list. These protected sharks look fierce with a mouth full of very sharp teeth, but are graceful, slow-moving sharks which are very inquisitive. They are quite photogenic and lucky divers can often find teeth which have been shed from these sharks on the ground around where they congregate. We have a number of ‘shark caves’ around Rottnest Island and these sites are visited occasionally by dive vessel operators for divers to take photographs and video of these majestic creatures in their natural habitat. Being careful not to visit these places too regularly is important for these operators as too much human interaction and activity could potentially push the sharks away to another area. The other very different feature of diving around Rottnest and surrounding areas is that our reef is mainly made of limestone. This means lots of caves and swim-throughs as well as a whole new range of marine species which come with this type of reef. Underwater caves which lead from cave to cave and cavern to cavern make some dives feel like you are in a different world. Limestone reef structure differs to the boulder type reef of the south west and it does offer some fantastic underwater landscapes and topography. My Top Picks for diving at Rottnest island:
Large shoals gather under the boat
Crystal Palace has long been a favourite dive site of mine. Endless caves and swim-throughs make every dive different and the amount of marine life there never ceases to amaze me
Colourful swim-through
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Every colour imaginable
DID YOU KNOW?
Rottnest is well known for its population of quokkas, a small native marsupial found in very few other locations. The island is also home to colonies of Australian sea lions and southern fur seals.
Rottnest has much to offer topside too
Vibrant coral and anemone growth
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Shark Cave (West End – Rottnest Island) This cave on the west end of Rottnest Island boasts up to 15 grey nurse sharks at any one time. Situated inside the marine sanctuary, the conditions do have to be very good to be able to dive here, but the wait for the perfect day is well worth it. Diving in a cave with these fantastic sharks is a fantastic experience that I believe every diver has to experience.
Grey nurse shark
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Crystal Palace (South West – Rottnest Island) Crystal Palace has long been a favourite dive site of mine. Endless caves and swim-throughs make every dive different and the amount of marine life there never ceases to amaze me. Expect thousands of schooling buffalo bream - 50cm-60cm dinner-plate-shaped fish circling you above and below so all you can see is a tight spiral swimming around you. As you swim towards them, they part - but as they separate, there are more, and more and more of them, seeming like an endless wall of these huge silver fish. Experiencing this is something a diver will never forget and will talk about for many years to come. Snapper, dhu fish and WA rock lobster as well as many wobbegong sharks and Port Jackson sharks can also be found in this area. On a night dive here, you are very likely to see turtles among other cool hard to find critters.
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There are numerous swim-throughs
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Porpoise Bay Caves Almost directly linked to Crystal Palace, towards the island, directly out of Porpoise Bay, Porpoise Bay Caves make for an exciting second dive after the Palace. There are brilliant photographic opportunities here with divers quite regularly seeing sea turtles, leafy sea dragons and fire fish (a species of lionfish). This dive is simply a sit back and watch the world go by, or explore the caves until your heart is content type of dive. No cave here is the same.
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Tuna Hut (North West – Rottnest Island) Tuna Hut is a very large dive site which also has some fantastic caves and swim-throughs. A dive site which is always good for a catch of crayfish for those looking for them, this site is a great spot to dive straight after diving Shark Cave. A short visit to the seal colony on the way through is always a great photo opportunity too, although this one is very close to reef, so skippers beware.
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Cathedral Rocks (West End – Rottnest Island) Cathedral Rocks (or Cathedrals) as we call it gets its name from a massive cave in the middle of an underwater cave network on the west end of Rottnest Island. The main cave has holes in the roof which allows light to come into the cave. The weed that has grown into the top of this reef structure moves around above the holes creating flickering-type light beams which shoot down through the cave making the beams like disco laser lights. As there are a number of these small holes in the roof of the cave, the light beams are spread across the roof of the cave sending light beams down, which pick up
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The reefs are home to myriad species of fish
A short visit to the seal colony on the way through is always a great photo opportunity too, although this one is very close to reef, so skippers beware large fish or schools of smaller fish as the lights move around the cave. The name Cathedral Rocks comes from the best way to describe the image of these light beams coming through ‘windows’ of a huge cathedral (the cave) with a large exit at the base of the cave, which leads up to more small caves and a network of underground caverns. This dive site is truly a special place and, unfortunately, is only accessible to divers two or three times a year due to the position and required conditions to dive it. Put this one on your wish list of dives and keep an eye out for five or six really good days in a row in summer, where easterly winds have been constant. You won’t be disappointed with this dive site.
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North Point This dive site is rated as one of the easiest sites and would have to be one of the most under-rated dives at Rottnest. The diving here is quite spectacular. Looking from the surface, there doesn’t appear to be
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Lionfish on the prowl
PERTH SCUBA
Perth Scuba is Western Australia’s largest dive centre. They teach PADI and TDI dive courses, have a huge range of dive and snorkelling equipment and make regular trips out to Rottnest Island, plus many of the other best dive sites the area has to offer. www.perthscuba.com Turtles often put in an appearance
Walls are smothered in life
much under the water, but don’t let that fool you. Along the reef wall there is a small cave. Enter the cave and follow through to the end. This ends up being a tunnel full of fish and other marine creatures. Upon your exit, you will find yourself in a huge underwater bay. The sedimentary reef here looks like a row of toppled dominoes with all types of marine life in between the layers. Here you can expect to find the iridescent blue devils, crayfish and red banded wrasse. As you follow this bay around, you will come across a cave and this is where the bay turns into something quite spectacular! Once inside the cave swim to the middle and lay back and watch the show! Describing this cave is never going to do it justice - diving it is the only way! But I will give it a try. The cave is circular and opens up to be around 15 metres in diameter and has a roof about four metres high. With the exception of another hole at the other side of the cave, it
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The diving here is quite spectacular. Looking from the surface, there doesn’t appear to be much under the water, but don’t let that fool you
is totally enclosed. With visibility at 100 percent clear and no silt, there is a feeling of being in open air. The roof is scattered with holes no bigger than a hubcap. These holes let in sunlight, which forms a beam of light from the roof to the floor. Because of the water refracting on the surface and top of the reef, the light moves around in circles, making the beams of light move backwards and forwards like a spotlight. Add another 20 or so of these ‘spotlights’ and you feel as though you are in a night club. The lights dart around the cave occasionally picking up a fish or school of fish in the rays. This is one of the most-stunning features of diving in caves and is sure to make you want to sit for a while you take it all in.
CONCLUSION
The diving around the waters of Rottnest Island offers a rich variety of marine life and stunning topography, all within easy reach of Perth. n
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Back when Adrian Stacey was living in Blighty, he stopped off in Oman enroute back home after a six-month stint working in Thailand and found some impressive diving worthy of those looking for adventure PHOTOGRAPHS BY ADRIAN STACEY
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A
fter six months of diving in Thailand, it was time return to England. However, after observing the Arctic weather conditions from a safe distance, it seemed wise to delay my return home for as long as possible. My flight was due to have a two-hour stopover in Muscat, which I promptly extended to a week. I knew very little about Oman, the city of Muscat, or the quality of the diving and was eager to discover what was on offer. The Sultanate of Oman is situated along the southeast cost of the Arabian Peninsula and it counts Saudi Arabia, Yemen and the United Arab Emirates as its neighbours. The official language is Arabic, but everyone also seems to speak English. The coastline is formed by the Arabian Sea in the south and the Gulf of Oman further to the north. The enclave of Musandam also has coastal water on the Strait of Hormuz. Muscat is a beautiful sprawling city sandwiched between the sea on one side and barren rugged mountains on the other. There are no high-rise buildings tainting the skyline, instead traditional-looking flat-roofed white buildings stretch as far as the eye can see occasionally punctuated by the minarets and domes of the many mosques in the city. Old fortifications which perch on top of mountain ridges that stretch down to the sea watch over the
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older parts of the city that were built in the valleys. The city is very clean and the people very friendly, but there is not much evidence of public transport, the best way to get around is either to rent a car or take one of the many taxis that tend to be quite cheap. Above the water there is plenty to do - there are several souks and museums to visit, or just wandering around the old town looking at the architecture and exploring the city is a pleasant way to spend time when not diving. The abovewater highlight for me, though, was Wadi Shab. It is about a two-hour drive out of Muscat. Upon arrival, a small boat takes you across a river. After a short walk along the palm-treed banks the wadi opens out into a large canyon, imposing cliffs dominate the vista and after snaking along the canyon wall and picking a path through a large boulder field, we arrived at a series of refreshing pools, some we could wade through and some we had to swim through. At the end we came to a large pool that ends at a sheer rock face. A small crack in the wall gives the adventurous the opportunity to swim into a completely enclosed waterfall. It is possible to climb up the water fall, which opens out into a secluded rocky plateau complete with another small waterfall and a clear cool pool, a truly magical experience. Euro Divers, the dive centre I was diving with, was located in a pleasant little marina just on the outskirts of Muscat. For those of us who enjoy an après-dive beer there is no need to worry because the Sultanate of Oman is not completely dry, the marina restaurant next to the dive centre offers alcoholic refreshments, as do most hotel bars.
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My hotel, The Golden Oasis, was only a ten-minute drive from the marina. It is worth noting that Muscat is a large city, so if you wish to avoid an hour-long commute through rush hour traffic, it is advisable to book somewhere close to your dive centre. The best season for diving is May to June. Visibility gets up to 25 metres, and the marine life is more prolific. July to September also benefits from good visibility, but above the water becomes very hot and humid. October to April is a little more hit and miss, with visibility down to five metres on occasion, but averaging around ten to15 metres. Water temperatures range from 29 degrees C in the summer down to 22 degrees C in the winter. I arrived towards the end of March and booked a five-day diving package with Euro Divers and had a mixed bag regarding visibility. Muscat offers a good variety of dive sites, from the impressive limestone edifice of Fahal Island to the undersea mounts and walls of the Daymaniyats, and for the wreck lovers there is the majestic wreck of the Al Munassir. More to come on these last two dive sites in a future issue, but for now just let me say that that the Daymaniyats and the Al Munassir are well worth a visit. In fact, if you are diving in Oman, they are a must. Whalesharks are supposedly occasional visitors to the area, but I am sure these mythical creatures are extinct. Although I am not basing this assumption on any hard facts, I have only ever seen one in my entire diving career. I am now beginning to believe that on that occasion I was suffering from the effect of nitrogen narcosis, even if I was only at 8m. The majority of the diving takes place around Fahal Island or Bandar Khayran. The first dives I did were around Bandar Khayran, a small but comfortable boat whizzed us along the spectacular, barren coastline comprising of seemingly endless weathered limestone cliffs. After 30 minutes we reached our destination. The first site was called Cave Site. This is usually a drift dive, however due to somewhat choppy seas and with
Small schools of grunts, a variety of reef fish and of course more moray eels sheltered in this forest of coral
The topography is stunning
Honeycomb moray eel Grey moral eel
safety in mind we dropped into the water in a more-sheltered cove where the boat could moor to make entries and exits a little simpler. The dive began on a shallow boulder field and barely a minute into the dive the undulating form of a large free swimming honeycomb moray came into view. Apparently unfazed by divers it headed straight for me, mouth opening and closing almost is if were trying to say ‘move, you are in my way’. After taking a couple of quick photos I dutifully moved out of the way and the moray swam past. It was to be the first encounter of many with these mesmerising and photogenic creatures. In fact, they are my abiding memory of diving in Oman. As the dive continued the boulder field gave way to a wall that dropped down to about 25m and rose to just below the surface. Almost every inch of the wall was covered in yellow, green and purple whip corals. Small schools of grunts, a variety of reef fish and of course more moray eels sheltered in this forest of coral. The second dive was at First Entrance. This is a shallower dive along the wall of one of the many inlets along the coast. At around 7m-8m, the wall gives way to a gentle slope where stingrays hide and goatfish frenetically graze. Large terraces of table corals dominate the later stages of the dive and provide a home to vast numbers of sergeant majors, which dart in every direction as they are approached.
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Anemonefish
Wadi Shab
Fahal Island is an impressive limestone rock that juts out of the sea and can be reached after a 30-minute boat ride off the coast of Muscat. The island boasts nine dive sites. My personal favourite was North Point, which can be dived two ways, you can either drop on the west side of the island and swim around the north point into a shallow bay, or you can start in the bay and head around to the west. For the first dive there, we started on the west side dropping down about 20m. We were greeted by an artificial reef that appeared to be a favourite playground for the ubiquitous honeycomb morays. Further along the site large slabs of rock dominate the topography. As you come around into the bay a gently sloping wall is littered with colourful broccoli corals and jagged staghorn coral. But for me the highlight of this dive was a cauldron-shaped bowl that leads into a narrow shallow gully close to the island on the north point. It is just teeming with schools of fish, dizzying, disorientating, swarming schools of fish of every description, blue-lined snapper, yellowlined snapper, grunts, sergeant majors, anthias, red-tooth triggerfish and yellow-striped goatfish are all in abundance. Other dive sites I visited included Bill’s Bumps, a great dive site containing fields of table corals. Yellowtail tangs flitted from one feeding ground to the next and a school of juvenile barracuda swirled just above the reef where they were joined by schools of yellow snapper. Shark Point is another very good site. A sandy slope descends to around 20m where good coral growth attracts a myriad of marine life - cuttlefish lurk in the reef, and yellow mouth, peppered and grey morays to name a few hide in the corals, Picasso triggerfish, broomtail wrasse, porcupine puffer, emperor and yellow bar angelfish can also be counted among the many residents. Oman really does have a lot to offer. For a start you are usually the only boat on the dive site, which is a huge plus in my book. Both soft and hard corals are abundant and
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Vibrant soft corals
there is plenty of marine life, schooling fish in the thousands, cuttlefish, turtles and what seems like moray eels in every crevasse. The Al Munassir is a fantastic wreck and the Daymaniyats offer some truly fantastic diving. Above the water you are transported back to the Arabia of Lawrence of Arabia, especially when visiting Wadi Shab, which is simply stunning. Muscat feels and looks authentic. It is a beautiful city. The people are very friendly and in the entire week I was there I was not once dragged into a perfume, papyrus, rug or other miscellaneous gift shop, forced to drink scolding hot tea while being enticed into buying something I really did not want. The diving is good, the city and surrounding areas are very interesting, and overall Oman is well worth a visit. In fact, I found that one week was not really enough to fit in everything I wanted to do. So if you want an adventure, to get away from the crowds and experience something a bit different, I would highly recommend Muscat. n
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F
rom the eerie stillness of Milford Sound to the worldrenowned Poor Knights, the diving experiences on offer are plentiful and varied. There are wrecks galore, including the infamous Rainbow Warrior and the huge Mikhail Lermontov. Animal encounters with seals, sharks, dolphins and a wide variety of unique sea creatures are commonplace, not to mention kelp forests, rugged coastlines and inspiring topography.
BAY OF ISLANDS
The wrecks of the Rainbow Warrior and the HMNZS Canterbury are not the only reasons to dive in the bay of islands, but they are perhaps the main drawcards. The Greenpeace ship Rainbow Warrior is in the Cavalli Islands. Originally sunk in Auckland harbour in 1985 by the French government, it was refloated, cleaned up and then resunk in 1987 as a memorial and dive site. Covered in jewel anemones and sponges and filled with fish life, it is now a world-class dive with a story like no other. The ex HMNZS Canterbury is located in the Deep-Water Cove reserve, in the Bay of Islands. This Leander-class frigate was purpose-sunk in 2007 by divers for diving. It ranges in depth from 14m-36m, so suits a wide range of experience in divers. The Bay of Islands also has a vast number of reef sites to dive, ranging from shallow protected reefs to deep walls, caves and archways. It’s well worth spending a few days in this area exploring. Paihia Dive (www.divenz.com) offer diving trips to the spectacular Rainbow Warrior and HMNZS Canterbury and the stunning local reefs.
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New Zealand is famous for its stunning landscapes, rugby and The Lord of the Rings. However, the world beneath the surface of this rich and diverse country is every bit as spectacular as anything that J.R.R. Tolkien could imagine PHOTOGRAPHY CREDITED AT THE END OF THE ARTICLE
The oceans in Kaikoura are full of a huge range of incredible marine life. Huge whales, dolphins, seals, stingrays, octopus, crayfish and many more WWW.SCUBADIVERMAG.COM.AU
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THE POOR KNIGHTS
The Poor Knights Islands is one of New Zealand’s mostfamous marine reserves having been rated as one of the top 10 dive sites in the world by the late Jacques Cousteau. The Poor Knights are teeming with life, and there are plenty of dive sites to choose from to suit all qualifications. Rock faces that tower over 100 metres above, and 60m below the sea level create a spectacular landscape to explore beneath the waves. The walls and pinnacles are covered in colourful encrusting species, where fish and invertebrates make their home. The many arches, tunnels and caves provide fantastic ground for bigger fish, stingrays and the occasional shark. Trips run daily from Tutukaka in Northland for divers and snorkellers to experience the magic of the Poor Knights Islands. This really is a bucket list destination. Dive Now (www.divenow.co.nz) are proud to be one of New Zealand’s premier dive training, retail and servicing facilities and are regular visitors to the world-renowned Poor Knights.
Colourful encrusting marine growth
GOAT ISLAND, AUCKLAND
Tucked away in the placid bays of Auckland’s Hibiscus coast is the long-standing Goat Island Marine Reserve. One of the first marine reserves in the world, this humble island and its surrounding waters were established in the 1970s to ascertain a baseline of aquatic health for New Zealand’s waters. Situated a 45-minute drive from Auckland, the ‘no-take’ statute of the island and its immediate surrounds allows a rare encounter with mature native fish species in higher than average numbers. The shallow waters and sheltered nature of the bay has become a go-to for entry-level divers and open water dive courses, with the promise of an effortless beach entry and a guaranteed ‘fishy’ dive, regardless of the conditions. The bottom topography is classic for the Hauraki Gulf, with large table-top rock reefs rising from a white sandy bottom. Defiles in the rocks create canyons where divers can ‘trench run’ to their heart’s content in less than 12m of depth. Crayfish pepper the crags while battle-scarred snapper mooch overhead. This is a classic ‘big-water’ experience, all within the confines of
Gobies and blennies inhabit the reefs
the shallows as several fish species school together through the dappled light. Kiwi Divers (www.kiwiscubadivers.co.nz) explore and dive in the some of the most-picturesque dive sites New Zealand has to offer. From the waters of Mokohinaus to Great Barrier Island and many, many more.
New Zealand is breath-taking
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MERCURY BAY, COROMANDEL
Blue shark Wrasse adds a splash of colour
The Coromandel Peninsula is an extraordinary part of the world. The natural beauty above the surface raises the expectations of what hidden treasures await below the waves. Only a couple of hours drive from Auckland, Tauranga or Hamilton; the peninsular offers some of the most-spectacular vistas. The subaquatic scenery is equal to any in the land of the long white cloud. Here temperate diving is at its best courtesy of rich marine currents that feed all manner of life on this eastern seaboard of the Peninsula. Exploring around the offshore islands of Mercury Bay will reveal vibrant rocky reefs, colourful underwater caves and overhangs, and sheltered coves cloaking friendly fish-filled kelp forests. Once in the water, be amazed by the diversity of marine life this region has to offer, including numerous species of nudibranch, photogenic triple fins, schools of blue maomao, kingfish and kahawai. Coming face to face with a local New Zealand fur seal and feeding kina to any number of affable wrasse species on the same dive is a treat and well worth the trip. Dolphins are frequent visitors to the area, and occasionally orca pass through hunting their favourite meal – stingrays. Dive Zone Whitianga (www.divezonewhitianga.co.nz) run daily trips to the great dive spots right on their doorstep including Mercury Islands, Alderman Islands, Cathedral Cove and its Marine Reserve, or fantastic diving along the eastern Coromandel coastline.
WELLINGTON
There are some cool wrecks to explore
Wellington ticks all the boxes for scuba diving and freediving. Best of all, much of it can be done from the shore. There are numerous wrecks, marine reserves, access to deep dives and plenty of fish life. With deep water drop-offs, you never know what you may see - orca, dolphin, seals and more. With the shape of Wellington’s coastline, there is always somewhere to dive, the South Coast, the West Coast or in the harbour. Taputeranga Marine Reserve on the South Coast is an easy shore dive that is teeming with life. You can see crayfish, giant blue moki, blue cod, stingrays and much more, a perfect site for learning to dive or for an adventure. There are several shorebased wrecks including the Yung Penn, which sits in 6m of water. Further offshore is the wreck of the Wellington F69, a purpose-sunk frigate which sits in 20m. In the harbour you can see seahorses, scallops, stingrays and many species of fish. Dive Wellington (www.divewellington.co.nz) are located across the road from Taputeranga Marine Reserve and a fiveminute boat ride to the F69 Frigate Wellington - what better way to enjoy Wellington’s underwater world.
Crayfish
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Imagine surfacing to this view!
Mikhail Lermontov
MARLBOROUGH SOUND
The Marlborough Sounds are a vast network of sunken valleys at the top of New Zealand’s South Island. Picton town lies at the heart of the Sounds and is the gateway to the North Island from the South. Diving in and around the Sounds offers an exciting variety of experiences, with numerous historical wrecks, kelp forests, and the jewel in the crown, the wreck of the Mikhail Lermontov, a 176-metre Russian cruise liner, sunk under mysterious circumstances in 1986. The Lermontov could not be situated in a better location and offers excellent dives no matter what your level of expertise. The top of the wreck lies at 14m-15m and is teeming with a huge variety of local fish species. For the more adventurous and well-equipped divers, and those who like to be challenged, penetration dives can be planned through the vast engine room, restaurants, bars and duty-free areas. Also close to Port Gore is the wreck of the Lasingtham, a steel sailing ship sunk in 1883, and the Rangitoto, a steamship sunk in 1874. This is an area of NZ few get to dive and explore and well worth the stopover. Go Dive Pacific (www.godivepacific.nz) has 36 years of experience guiding divers in and around the Sounds, numerous historical wrecks kelp forests and the impressive Mikhail Lermontov, one of the biggest and best shipwrecks in the world. Worthy of anyone’s bucket list. Stunning waterfall
Marine growth is prolific and healthy
MILFORD SOUND
Milford Sound is New Zealand’s coral diving capital and one of the world’s most-unique dive locations. Located in the deep South, Fiordland’s most northern fiord and the country’s mostfamous geographic landmark sits just a four-hour drive away from the little party city of Queenstown. Deepwater emergent black coral trees grow in abundance on Milford’s impressive Fiord Wall diving sites, a species usually inhabiting water hundreds of meters deep. Black coral has a stunning white appearance and gives the impression of having a mystical presence, also to be found while diving the steep Fiord Wall faces are red and pink hydrocorals, gorgonian fans and seapens. The ability for deep water species to reside here is caused by Fiordland’s infamous rainfall creating a mixed salinity surface layer and acting as an eerie light filter to the clear, deep waters below. And Milford is deep at over 300m, straight down in some sites, perfect for technical diving exploration. While diving you may also see bottlenose dolphins, sharks, eels, octopus, stingray, crayfish, nudibranch and over 150 different fish species all within the Piopiotahi marine reserve. Descend Scuba Diving – Milford Sound (www.descend.co.nz) offers regular day and multi-day boat diving tours, technical diving support and dive training and equipment rental to this unique destination.
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The wrecks along Aramoana Mole (a breakwater and the entrance to the harbour) are mostly hulks from the steam era. After the vessels were decommissioned, they were sunk to stabilise the breakwater. These structures are still mostly intact, but while there are no opportunities for penetration, there are still plenty of points of interest to swim through. Often seen dancing between the wrecks are whakahao or New Zealand sea lions, one of the rarest sea lions in the world. These enormous taonga species are an experience not to be missed. Their sheer speed and manoeuvrability in the water can hold your gaze for almost an entire tank. Sea hares, nudibranchs and sponge life make getting closer to the action all the more rewarding. Dive Otago (www.diveotago.co.nz) has been one of New Zealand’s leading dive stores for over 20 years and specialise in trips to see the impressive kelp forests, and numerous wrecks the area has to offer.
Crab ensuring social distancing
CONCLUSION KAIKOURA
The oceans in Kaikoura are full of a huge range of incredible marine life. Huge whales, dolphins, seals, stingrays, octopus, crayfish and many more. The diving in Kaikoura has changed a lot since the 7.8 Earthquake in 2016 and mostly for the positive. So much bedrock was forced up through the sand to create amazing structures and swim-throughs, which makes diving here incredible fun. In the last three years, all these rocks have created more prime real estate locations for marine life to thrive, so not only are there many more reefs to explore, there is now a lot more life to see. Kaikoura is home to an incredible, kelp-filled coastline. These underwater forests come alive in gentle swells that buffet the rugged shores of this diving wonderland. This picturesque part of New Zealand has it all - stunning topography, vibrant kelp forests and endless marine animal encounters both large and small. Dive Kaikoura (www.divekaikoura.co.nz) will take you to explore the kelp forests and limestone reefs, home to octopus, crayfish, encrusting sponges and intricate invertebrates all competing for space on the rocky reefs.
From the temperate waters of the north to the frigid seas of the South, New Zealand boasts a wealth of world-class diving not to be missed, and with the Covid-19 virus under control in and no community transmission, all dive operations are up and running. This is just a taste of some of the fantastic diving available in New Zealand. Now is a great time to get out and support your local dive shop, or travel to an area that you have always wanted to see. n Nudibranchs can be found in all shapes and sizes
DUNEDIN
On the southeastern side of Te Waipounamu (South Island), exposed to the Southern Ocean lies the funky university town of Dunedin, but put your head just under the surface, and you will get an authentic Southern Ocean experience. On either side of the harbour entrance are several easyto-access shore sites where wrecks sit in 6m-12m of water encrusted with colourful sponge life, surrounded by kelp forests. Kelp forest
Photography: Craig Johnston, Simon Collins, Brent Tassell, Kiwidivers NZ, Dive Zone Whitianga, Kristine Zipfel, Go Dive Marlborough, Gerald Van der Watt, Jaydin Cassel, Miles Holden, Tom Bliss, Tim Smith Grant Thomas Photography / Descend Milford Sound.
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UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY
SUBJECTS WITH A SMILE Underwater photo pro Mario Vitalini explains how best to capture dolphins on camera PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARIO VITALINI
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t feels like a long time since we have the opportunity to travel and pursue our love of diving and underwater photography. Fortunately, things are slowly starting to move in the right direction and some destinations are beginning to reopen. Although many of us have returned to local waters, many of our usual photo hotspots remain off-limits for a bit longer. But 2020 has been the ideal time to go through the back catalogue and review old pics. For me, one subject that has caught my attention - and one that is guaranteed to make everyone smile – are the images of dolphins. Let me take you back a year or so. We’ve just finished a dive on the Carnatic, one of the popular wrecks of Sha’ab Abu Nuhas in the Northern Egyptian Red Sea, when suddenly a bottlenose dolphin breached next to our RIB. Our driver carefully started circling, making ‘RIB doughnuts’. That did the trick and soon we had about seven dolphins swimming around us. Mask, snorkel and fins back on, I grabbed my camera and rolled in. The next ten minutes produced one of the most-exciting encounters I have with these creatures and I managed to get some good shots. So, what is the secret to getting great dolphin shots?
A small pod of spinner dolphins in black and white
STOP, THINK, BREATHE
If you have never seen a dolphin in the wild, it can be an overwhelming situation. These are amazing creatures with tons of personality, and they are on the top of most underwater photographers’ wish list. If being in the water with a dolphin is on your bucket list, try to stay calm. It is easy to get over exited and lack the focus you need to take good shots. In this case, simply put your camera down and enjoy the encounter. There will be other occasions. When dolphins are in a good mood, they will swim around you for several minutes. Stop, think and, most importantly, breathe. Try to predict how the action will unfold and where the dolphin will be, so you can prepare the shot. Do not bother chasing after a moving dolphin or pod. Believe me, they are way faster than you. Dolphins will come as close as they want. And sometimes are not in the mood to pose.
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After a dive on Abu Nuhas Reef in the Northern Red Sea, a group of bottlenose dolphins started following the RIB. We grabbed mask, snorkel and fins and rolled back. The pod were in a playful mood and stayed around for some time
Dolphins are famous for their friendly smile, but do not be fooled, they are apex predators and have to be treated with respect. On a late afternoon dive at Daedalus Reef, I once saw one catch a fully-grown dogtooth tuna! They are generally friendly, but you do want to give them a bit of space and allow them to swim towards you. This is especially important if there are juveniles around.
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SNORKEL VS SCUBA
Dolphins can be seen almost everywhere in the world and encounters are relatively common in many areas, but the Egyptian Red Sea and the Bahamas are some of the best destinations to see these animals in large pods. They love to ride the wake of a moving boat. But never be tempted to drop into the blue to swim with dolphins. Sharks have been known to follow dolphin pods. Encounters should always be on or close to the reef, in particular if you are snorkelling. Occasionally, dolphins will come up to divers underwater and there are key sites where the odds of seeing a dolphin on scuba are relatively high (Sha’ab el Urg, Bluff Point and the Ulysses are all excellent spots in the Northern Red Sea). However, some of the best interactions I have had over the years have been snorkelling. Dolphins tend to spend a lot of the time in the shallows as they need to come up to breathe. Not having the drag of a full dive kit, snorkelling makes it easy to move around change direction and duck down as need. It is always a good idea to pack a snorkel and practice your skills.
GO WIDE
Dolphins are big animals, and as is the case with any other large subject, a wide-angle lens is essential. On my last Red Sea trip, I had my macro lens when a dolphin showed up and swam around us for ten minutes. My only option was to put my camera down and enjoy the experience. A wide-angle lens will allow you to fill the frame with your subject and, to keep the image sharp and contrasted, get close to the action. The further away you are from your subject, the poorer the image quality will be. A fish-eye lens will have a greater field of view, but you will need to get even closer to your subject and remember, a fisheye lens will create barrel distortion, making the centre look larger in the frame and narrowing on the edges. A rectilinear lens is a more-practical solution if dolphins are not passing close to you, as these types of lenses are not as wide and will let you work from a slightly greater distance. A couple of bottlenose dolphins do a quick pass during a safety stop
This pod of dolphins was moving fast. I had my camera already set so I did not waste any time choosing the right aperture and shutter speed
SPEED IS KING
Have you ever tried to keep up with a dolphin? If so, you know very well that it is a waste of energy. They are incredibly quick and agile. The fast pace requires a fast shutter speed, something above 1/200 of a second. Do not be tempted to use a slower speed with your shots unless you want the effect of motion blur. If you chose to not shoot in Manual mode, you can use to Shutter Priority. This mode is normally labelled TV or S. When selected it will let you choose the shutter speed while the camera selects the adequate aperture. In order to achieve a correct exposure when using Manual mode, remember to pen the Aperture to allow enough light into camera when using a fast shutter speed.
LIGHTING
As mentioned, my best dolphin shots have been taken snorkelling. Being so close to the surface, strobes are not necessary and I tend to use ambient light. When using ambient light, try to keep the sun behind you so your subject gets most of the light. This is not always easy when dolphins are swimming all around you and when the sun is in front, I tend to gently tilt the camera slightly downwards. This helps to control too much bright sky creeping into the top half of the image. If you are using strobes, make sure they are wide apart and behind your dome to prevent backscatter. I tend to position my strobes a bit high, in the 10-2 position (think about a clock face) and aim them slightly downwards to avoid overexposing their pale underbelly. The same as I do with when photographing sharks. Even if you are using strobes, try to keep the shutter speed as high as your camera allows to avoid blurred images.
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UNDERWATER PHOTOGRAPHY A couple of spinner dolphins diving down. By keeping the sun behind I was able to get a good amount of light on the subjects and not over expose the background
The calm water of Sataya lagoon created a beautiful reflection that complements very well this classic pic of a spinner dolphin
NOISE OR SHARPNESS
If the light conditions are not optimal, you may not have an aperture wide enough to get a good exposure using fast shutter speed. At this point you have two options - end up with a blurry picture, or would increase the camera ISO. This will generate additional noise, but I rather have a slightly grainy dolphin picture than a grey blob. If you are in a situation when you know you will encounter dolphins, you can set the camera before you jump in the water. If you are not familiar shooting in Manual mode, have the ISO set to Automatic and assign an upper limit to avoid excessive noise caused by higher ISO values. Shutter Priority mode will let you choose a shutter speed and the camera will then select the correct aperture. That way if the dolphin encounter is brief, you will have a good chance to get a shot.
COMPOSING
There are a few things to consider when shutting dolphins. Because they tend to hang around in shallow water, I try to use the surface as a compositional element, the texture of the waves works beautifully in the background and, if you are right under the surface, it is possible to archive very striking reflections.
LOOK FOR THE EYES
As it is with any animal subject, a great picture can be let down because of poor eye contact. When your subject is looking directly at the camera, the resulting image will create a strong connection between the viewer and, in this case, the dolphin. Whatever you do, always pay attention to the edges of the frame making sure you don’t accidentally clip a fin or a fellow diver. Dolphin pics are full of feel good factor. Elegant, friendly, on beautiful blue (or green) backgrounds, they are engaging subjects and is well worth keeping your cool in the water next time you have the chance to swim with them. Be prepared for fast-moving action and try to use the surface as a compositional element. n
Dolphins can work very well in black and white
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Q&A: HAZEL WEAVER & HELEN HADLEY The hallowed grounds of Scapa Flow are rightly considered a diving Mecca for wreck fanatics from around the world. We chat to seasoned Orkney skippers Hazel Weaver and Helen Hadley about German battleships, diving outside the Flow, trips to Shetland – and scrumptious food PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ORKNEY, SHETLAND CHARTERS AND JASON BROWN
Q: You seem to have been a permanent fixture on the Orkney diving scene forever, first with Valkyrie, and then with Valhalla joining ‘the fleet’. What’s your story, and how did you end up in the Orkney Islands? Helen: I first arrived on a diving holiday, much like so many people who end up living up here. We dived the North Isles as well as Scapa and I fell in love with the islands. I was on the look out for a change in direction when Hazel began to look for crew for her first boat, the Stormdrift - I jumped at the chance. Q: The Valkyrie and the Valhalla are both impressive vessels – tell us a bit more about their heritage and how they ended up with Orkney and Shetland Charters. A: The Valkyrie was built in 1967 by Rory Forbes of Sandhaven, just to the west of Fraserburgh. She was unusual in the fact that she was built to a standard, not to a budget. This meant that she was much heavier and stronger than similar boats being built at the time. She has fished all over Scotland and has even visited New Zealand. The Valhalla was originally a Royal Navy Fleet Tender, starting out as HMS Vigilant in Northern Ireland - she acquired several bullet holes in her upper works! She became Maevy, and then Sultan Venture, run by Serco Denholm. We bought her in 2014 and began the task of stripping her out and making her into the boat she is today. Q: Running dive boats, particularly liveaboards, in the far north of Scotland, must be extremely testing at times. What are some of the most-challenging aspects of the business? A: The weather is what limits us, primarily the wind. Direction and force of wind can lay waste to the best-laid plans, even within the shelter of Scapa Flow. We can also be very remote, which you have to factor in, with an added delay for any help needed for diving incidents. It was this that was the driving force behind us becoming Diver Medic Technicians.
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The Valkyrie was built in 1967 by Rory Forbes of Sandhaven, just to the west of Fraserburgh. She was unusual in the fact that she was built to a standard, not to a budget
Q: Scapa Flow has a reputation as being deep, dark and dangerous, and like me, you do your upmost to dispel this myth. Why should those new to the joys of Scapa Flow dive with Orkney and Shetland Charters? A: Scapa is very much what you choose to make it. You can do deep and dark and scary if you wish, but you don’t have to. All of the wrecks have easier and very satisfying dive options, allowing you to see fantastic snapshots of history, if you are told where to look! A dive brief should be a balance of history and wreck orientation, and we pride ourselves on getting this balance right. Q: Diving is a hungry business, and you want nothing more than a good feed when you have been exploring the depths. The food offerings on Valkyrie and Valhalla are the stuff of legend – tell us more! Helen: I began to cook on board the Stormdrift on a single gas burner, making huge pans of soup to help fill up hungry divers. After we bought the Valkyrie, we decided that we could offer evening meals to allow people ultimate flexibility with their holidays. My first few years involved a lot of phone calls to my mother asking how to cook various things. I tend to stick by the hot, lots and quality approach, using home-bred lamb and venison as often as possible. We only have domestic appliances on board the boats, so learning to cook a starter, main course and pudding in a galley that can sometimes lurch to 25 degrees takes a little getting used to. Our main complaint is that people find their trousers are a touch tight by the end of the week.
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After we bought the Valkyrie, we decided that we could offer evening meals to allow people ultimate flexibility with their holidays 46
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Q: As well as Scapa Flow, you operate out of the Shetland Islands for a time each year. What is the attraction of the Shetlands, and what makes the diving there different to that around the Orkneys? A: Shetland is an amazing place. The further north you get, the more extreme things seem to become. Coastlines here take a true battering over the winter, effectively stripping the life back to bare rock, meaning that you get an explosion of biomass in the spring. Couple this with a plethora of wrecks to satisfy every taste in rust and extraordinary visibility, it makes Shetland a very popular destination. Q: You have also run trips to Norway. What is the attraction for divers in the cold waters off the Norwegian coast? A: Norway was somewhere we had always wanted to visit, indeed we built the Valhalla with visiting Norway in mind. The fjords are peppered with virtually untouched wrecks, with the authorities having a very strict ‘look but do not touch’ policy you can find even the most-delicate and fascinating items still in place, each one an underwater time capsule. During World War Two, Norway was bombarded by the Banff Strike Wing, who decimated the shipping around the coasts, meaning there is a wide breadth of variety of diving to be visited.
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Q: As we always do in our Q&As, what is your mostmemorable moment (can be diving, or more-related to the business side of things). Helen: I would say one of mine was having what we suspected to be the wreck of the Parkmill be proven beyond doubt with the raising of the ship’s bell on the first dive. We had searched for many years to find it, and it put a full stop on the end of a fascinating story. Q: On the flipside, what is your worst memory? A: When a diver loses their life in an accident, even on other boats in the Flow. It brings home your own mortality, and the fact that the sport is not without risk. Q: Thanks to COVID-19, 2020 has turned out to be a bit of a damp squib on the diving front. Are you getting slowly back on track now, and what does the future hold for Orkney and Shetland Charters? A: We are back to running with divers in Shetland to start our 2020 season. With many weeks having to be rescheduled to next year, this means we will be busy in 2021 also. We are returning to Norway in 2022, and have other plans beyond that in the pipeline, but I’m afraid you will have to be patient for those! n
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SI’S
Robin has been extremely careful to develop the area for cave divers with the utmost respect for the local traditions and culture
Our crack team of cave divers continues their epic adventure to seek out the cave systems beneath Sulawesi in Indonesia, and as Maria Bollerup explains, there are some stunning sights awaiting underground PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETE MESLEY, RASMUS DYSTED AND MARIA BOLLERUP
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t was decided to have a go at some of the caves that Robin had previously marked out on his GPS on the island Pulau Muna. It needs to be said that an expedition like this could not be done without Robin. He has spent a long time familiarising himself on how to get things done appropriately. Politics play a large role and it’s all about respecting the people, the land and the customs. On Pulau Muna, we had to visit the chief of the villages to ask permission to dive in their caves. On a handful of occasions, we sat down and had coffee and food with ‘the right people’, exchanging pleasantries (and, of course, posing for selfies). Robin has been extremely careful to develop the area for cave divers with the utmost respect for the local traditions and culture. It was his hard work that got us the permission we needed to dive in the caves in Pulau Muna, and for future cave divers to enjoy. Pulau Muna had a different feel from Pulau Buton. Robin had already laid line in quite a few different caves on the island, and he had a list of GPS marks that was just waiting to be explored. The prospective cave highest on Robin’s list was stunning and deep in the dry cave section. Robin was certain that this cave had massive potential due to the sheer amount of water that was obviously running through the cave. The nearby village had already established an elaborate piped water system, running up through the steep and deep entry, out through the jungle and down to the town. For this reason, we had to do the diplomatic ‘walks and talks’ to gain Climbing skills came in access, and still stay low to make sure that no one would be necessary upset that we were going to dive in their water supply. While negotiations were taking place, we had time to prospect another possible site. This one was a logistical their farming lands, the monkeys were forced to retreat nightmare. Getting to the cave was interesting in itself. Early deeper into the jungle. This meant that the python, who eat morning, we arrived at a local village, where we would wait monkey, had to settle for the old lady that was nursing her for some local men to join us. They’d be showing us the way. land. They showed us pictures of the incident - it was horrible. It didn’t take long before the audience of chickens, kids and So with this monster, man-eating python on my mind, I villagers had gathered to follow the action. Quite a handful followed the troop (very closely) into the bushes. Pete, who of the ensemble followed us up to the end of the farmer’s grew up in Mozambique and Zimbabwe, was entertaining me fields, where we would proceed on foot into the jungle on the way, with how he was taught jungle survival as a kid armed with machetes. As we prepared to gear up, the men in the their schools. Pete is blessed with a brilliant sense of enthusiastically told us how an old lady had been swallowed humour and is a great storyteller. He even had me forgetting whole by a python in one of the nearby fields. We were all about that python right up until he exclaimed ‘… and informed that due to increased human presence extending there’s some fresh python shit right there’ on our track. I have to say that crawling down into the crevice in the ground, after having been told that Access to some this is perfect python estate had me quite tense. nces entra of the This cave ended up being the most-challenging one was hairy to access. To get to the water, we had to lower down all gear and team members through a narrow crack in the ground with a free drop of over 20 metres to
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COMPUTERS • O2 CELLS • GAS ANALYSERS CABLES & CONNECTORS • REBREATHER PARTS PATHFINDER STROBES • SENSORS TOOLS • SOLENOIDS get to the entry. Rasmus, who is an experienced climber, set up anchors (with rope, karabiners and knots I never knew existed) on the cliffs above, so Pete and I could load Robin, Rasmus and gear down and up. I was well content with staying up topside. It looked beautiful down at the bottom, with rays of sun cutting through the darkness, lightning up this great cave… but, a few days earlier, I was introduced to the skill of ‘prusik’, which is when you climb up and down a rope in your climbing harness. But being too enthusiastic, and perhaps a little eager to impress the guys, I quickly climbed myself away up the rope (which we had set up in a palm tree) without giving them time to explain how to get down again. This resulted in an embarrassingly long hang while trying to figure out how to return back to Mother Earth! And even though I afterwards had Rasmus train me in another palm tree (where I totally perfected the act, mind you!) 20-odd metres felt like a bloody long way up and down, especially if the cave did not go. So, the boys explored, and unfortunately it didn’t… ‘go’, I mean. Now we were getting really low on days, and we only had one proper shot left, if there was still to be time to do proper surveying. Our top contender was the cave we were still waiting for permission to dive in. We were pinning all of our hopes on this one, spending the afternoon pumping up our reels with more cave line, certain that we would be able to lay it all, soon. Just as a side-note, knotting cave line beats the IKEA test by miles! Reeling out hundreds of metres of line, just to put it back on a reel while adding knots for every three metres is a two-man job. Not a husband/wife job. Luckily, I was saved by some girls who wanted to show me their village. And then, just like that… we had it. Permission to dive the cave. The huge, massive promising dry cave, with the large pond at its bottom, became a reality.
Preparing to explore
With the help of extra local muscle, we got our gear to the bottom of the concrete stairs that had been thrown in for easy access to the water pipe. Splitting up in two teams, Pete and Robin went ahead on the main tunnel. Rasmus and I followed all initial side tunnels, jumping left and right. The side tunnels kept spinning back round to the main tunnel, but showed some bloody mind-blowing scenery along the way. This cave was huge! This cave was no doubt the one that we had hoped for. The one that we built the entire expedition on, but not daring to actually trust we would find it. It was the cave that Robin had hoped existed in his area, the cave that would open up for extensive mapping and exploration. And… it was stunning! The cave was bright white, completely untouched, with unspoiled walls and ceiling of the finest fossils of corals and crustaceans I have ever laid eyes on. I have always found the Mexican caves fascinating because of the fossils and the formations of stalagmites and stalactites, but this was just five steps up the ladder.
The topography was amazing
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To get to the water, we had to lower down all gear and team members through a narrow crack in the ground with a free drop of over 20 metres to get to the entry
Massive fossils of brain-coral, table-coral and stag-horns were sitting side by side with large banks of fragile shells with patterns as intricate and sharp as if they were still alive. But what got me dropping my jaw completely were the giant clams. They were enormous, and they were everywhere. To start, the cave was shallow, just a few metres in depth, sometimes it was completely submerged, but for a fair bit, it was running as a crystal-clear underground river through a huge dry cave, beautifully decorated with stalactites from the ceilings high above. Later on, Pete spent almost an entire dive in one of these great chambers, climbing around on the dry banks of the cave, photographing the beauty of this coliseum of a room, with the calm broad river running through. I was dumbstruck, we all were (A little disclaimer - I don’t want you to worry! Where Pete was walking, the floors were made of hard cave from the stalactites dripping down from the ceiling, so conservation of the cave was intact). After the cave had been running shallow through the high halls, ever-changing between white corals and shells to crystal formations of stalactites and stalagmites, it dipped down deep. Completely submerged, it continued winding its way for kilometres under the jungle. On my very last dive in the cave, armed with extra stage tanks, I was laying line down the main tunnel, Robin was following me with the Nemo tool (a little device you put on the cave line to measure distance and compass heading). He was following me at a distance of one tie-off behind, to make sure the line was laid and fixed for accurate measurements. This had me swimming off into the cave, following the obvious main vein, passing tunnel upon tunnel branching off to the sides. We had found it, and we wanted to see how far it would go.
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On the previous dive, Rasmus and Robin had managed to lay 1.5km of new line into the cave. Robin and I were bringing stages on this dive and halfway into the dive, we had pushed beyond the point where they had finished emptied their reels the day before. And that was what we were doing now, emptying reels faster than we could fill them. While all this was happening, Pete had built a dry enclosure to keep the compressor dry and out of the rain while filling tanks between dives. Others were knotting more line, and adding it to the reels, sheltered from the rain by the cave itself. When Robin finally signalled me to turn the dive, he had reached our turn pressure, I was completely immersed caught up in the pursuit, drinking in the cave. I was in the middle of the best dive of my life. The freedom I felt, when I was swimming into unknown territory, laying line that would provide information and proof of this wonderland, was very humbling. Finding cave that goes is one thing, but a cave of this calibre is a dream come true! Not to sound like a cliché, but I thought I needed to pinch my arm myself to see if I was in a dream, when my equipment did just that… Just a few fin-kicks after we turned around, and with a lengthy swim back out, I heard a blast, and felt the force of gas rushing out of the cylinder underneath my right arm. The high-pressure hose had exploded and I was losing gas fast. I switched to my left post, as I shot shut down the tank on my right, and signalled Robin. A situation like this, is one out of many that we trained for, and I quickly went through the plan in my head, as I changed place with Robin. I would now exit the cave in front of him, allowing him to keep a better eye on me. The situation was not critical, we had stages dropped on the line further back, and I had plenty of gas to get there, but only because we had strictly kept to our plan and not exceeded any limits. I am an experienced cave diver, and I feel comfortable handling stress underwater, but on my exit, I sent a few warm thoughts to my training and my team for keeping it super professional and safe. We checked out lots of prospect caves, and eventually laid several kilomentres of line, spread between the five caves that went further than just cavern. The exploration of the last cave is still ongoing. The whole area of South East Sulawesi remains highly unexplored, but also rather inaccessible, unless you team up with Robin on his quest to uncover the ancient systems that are found underground. But be wary of the maneating pythons - and be prepared for selfies at all times! n
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What’s New
AQUA LUNG OMNI
Created for anyone who wants to fully customize their dive gear, the Omni is a revolutionary jacket-style BCD designed to fit your specific style and size. Using the ModLoc technology popularized by the Rogue and Outlaw BCDs, the Omni allows you to choose from three universal sizing components: for your back, your shoulders and your waist, allowing for dozens of size combinations. It has the GripLock tank band for securing the BCD to your cylinder, and SureLock II integrated weight system. A threeposition bladder retraction system pulls in the sides of the bladder during deflation, keeping the unit streamlined and reducing drag. Continue your customization by choosing from multiple accessory options and six colour kits. This is the ideal platform to create your perfect fit and you’ve got an infinity of possible configurations. The colour kits comprise the following components: back pad, reusable mesh bag, Sureloc II weight pockets, octo pocket, console holder, inflator hold down, zipper pulls, and chest strap slider. www.aqualung.com
MARES PURE WIRE
The Pure Wire mask features an extremely comfortable silicone skirt which is suited to a variety of face shapes. The soft wired skirt portion provides support and enhances grip when fitting the mask. It comes in a selection of colours, but thanks to the design, the user can opt to switch out elements of the bi-material frame to give themselves new colours/looks. www.mares.com
SANTI DIVING T-SHIRTS
The new apres-divewear collection includes two men’s T-shirts and two women’s T-shirts. One features a cool mashup of a technical diver and an angler fish, and the others have eye-catching Santi logos. www.santidiving.com
FOURTH ELEMENT OCEANPOSITIVE MASKS Fourth Element has released OceanPositive face masks, which are designed to offer protection and comfort using Econyl regenerated nylon, made in part from lost fishing nets. Fourth Element’s new face masks are made using off-cuts from their already recycled swim-wear fabric, meaning waste is dramatically reduced. So wearers can keep themselves and others safe without adding to environmental damage. Available in four colourways, the masks are secured with a double cord and knotted around the back of the head to avoid discomfort on the ears, but can be easily converted to ear loops if needed. Each mask comes with three PM 2.5 filters, which have five layers of filtration, includ-ing an activated carbon core layer. www.fourthelement.com
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hat is it like to encounter a whaleshark in the deep blue? Deborah Dickson-Smith explains there are just a few places around the world where you can have an encounter of this kind. According to Lonely Planet, the top places for a whaleshark encounter are: Isla Holbox, Mexico, Utila in Honduras, WA’s Ningaloo Reef, Gladden Spit in Belize, Donsol Bay, Philippines, Tofo Beach in Mozambique, South Mahé, Seychelles, South Ari Atoll, Maldives and Koh Tao in Thailand. They missed a spot. Christmas Island. Whalesharks frequent the reefs surrounding Christmas Island between November and April to feast on the red crab larvae that enters the water each year during the annual great red crab migration. But it’s not the only reason to dive here, and it’s certainly not the only wildlife encounter that people visit Christmas Island to experience. The island is the tip of an extinct volcano that emerges from the edge of the Java Trench some 3,000m deep. It’s a lonely, rocky outcrop in the northern Indian Ocean about 2,500km northwest of Perth. Upwellings from the surrounding deep waters and abundant sunlight provide the corals the rich nutrients and energy required to thrive. The narrow fringing reef supports bountiful marine life, including 88 coral species and more than 650 species of fish. Reef fish common to the island include surgeonfish and unicornfish, toadfish and puffers, damsels, angels, Moorish idols, barracuda, moray eels, wrasse, butterflyfish, parrotfish, triggerfish, leatherjackets and at least 11 different hybrid species. The Cocos angelfish is a particularly prized angel for underwater photographers, found only at Christmas and Cocos Islands, as is the endemic subspecies of the lemon peel angelfish. The unique location and geology of Christmas Island delivers corals that are twice the size and extent that anyone would expect, and because there is so little fishing in these waters, the marine life is as abundant as it is diverse. There are not many places in the world that a diver can see such numbers and variety. Pelagic species include tuna, wahoo, barracuda, rainbow runners, mackerel scad, sailfishes, marlin, swordfish, trevallies, eagle rays, manta rays, reef sharks, the occasional
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hammerhead and tiger shark, and… whalesharks. Growing up to 12 metres in length, the largest living fish on the planet is completely harmless. Encounters at Christmas Island are usually with juveniles, three to seven metres in length. Whalesharks feed primarily on plankton and their arrival at Christmas Island coincides with the annual spawning of red crabs and corals, whose larvae they presumably feed on. As an ocean-going filter feeder, we know very little about their movements and behaviour. There are a few places where encounters with divers and snorkellers are almost guaranteed. At Christmas Island, encounters are not exactly common, but when they do occur they are completely natural, and very special. An encounter with such a creature leaves an impression that will never disappear. Other delights on the average Christmas Island dive day include the possibility of swimming with a school of sharks cruising around 10m below you, or the opportunity to jump in the water between dives and swim with a pod of spinner dolphins. And maybe, just maybe, if the rains are right, and the moon is waning, an encounter with the largest, gentlest giant anyone could hope to meet. For information on diving packages to Christmas Island, visit: diveplanit.com
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THIS ISSUE: HIGH-END REGULATORS Each month, the SCUBA DIVER test team assembles to rate and review a selection of dive equipment from a range of manufacturers. Products are split into price categories and are then evaluated for performance, comfort, ease of use, build quality, looks and value for money. The Test Team comprises Editor in Chief Mark Evans and a squad of volunteers, whose dive experience ranges from a couple of hundred dives to well over 7,500.
TOP-OF-THE-RANGE REGULATORS
This issue, we round out our reviews of one of the most-vital pieces of the modern divers’ kit bag regulators, or more specifically, top-of-the-line regs. Without a solid, reliable reg, you aren’t going anywhere underwater, as this is your true life-support system. As many of our readers dive all year round, we always test regulators in February and March, when water temperatures are at their lowest in the inland sites much to the chagrin of the Test Team members. This year, due to COVID-19, we ended up in the water in July. We push the units to their max by extensively purging them underwater and topside, over-breathing them underwater to simulate a panic situation, breathing them in every orientation, working any Venturi and/or cracking resistance controls, and various other trials - if they can handle this over-the-top usage, they can handle a normal diving situation. A large array of manufacturers produce regulators, and our aim here at Scuba Diver is to give you the widest selection in each review, and here we have regulators from the majority of the big players.
ON TEST THIS MONTH • APEKS MTX-RC • AQUA LUNG LEG3ND ELITE • ATOMIC AQUATICS Z3 • HOLLIS 200 LX/DCX • MARES EPIC ADJ 82X
• OCEANIC ZEO FDXI • SCUBAPRO MK25 EVO D420 • XDEEP NX700 LS200 • ZEAGLE F8
Location: Tested at Vivian Dive Centre, Llanberis www.viviandivecentre.com Date tested: 10/07/20 Water temp: 11 degrees C 56
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APEKS MTX-RC | SRP: $1,500 (STAGE 3 SET INCLUDING OCTOPUS) The Apeks MTX-R was the civilian version of the military-spec MTX (it was developed in accordance with the United States Navy Experimental Dive Unit’s extreme cold-water test), and this regulator featured a first-of-its-kind over-moulded first stage end cap and environmental diaphragm to prevent ice build-up, a forged body with five low-pressure ports and two high-pressure ports, and was equipped with a double-swivel braided hose. However, the second stage had no dive adjustment controls, and that is where the MTX-RC comes in the second stage has a venturi lever, and a cracking resistance control knob. It also comes in a subtle gun-metal grey colour rather than the bright white of the MTX-R. All of the Test Team were complimentary about the construction and looks of both the first and second stages of the MTX-RC. While it performed well straight out of the box, we liked the ability to tweak the breathe to our liking - the venturi and the cracking resistance control were both large and easy to locate and operate while wearing gloves. Thumbs up for the comfort of the ComfoBite mouthpiece as well. It breathes well in all positions. As you expect, all of the regulators in this price bracket performed well, but the MTX-RC was ultra-smooth in all orientations and however you are breathing through it, making it a clear favourite. www.apeksdiving.com
TECH SPECS & VERDICT VENTURI: Yes | CRACKING RESISTANCE: Yes | PROS: Well made, durable, smooth breathe, comfortable mouthpiece. CONS: Perhaps a little on the heavy side for travelling.
SCORE
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AQUA LUNG LEG3ND ELITE | SRP: $1,150 The venerable Legend - now Leg3nd - is back in an all-new guise, and the Elite is the pick of the pack. The chromed overbalanced diaphragm first stage offers total environmental protection, giving it phenomenal cold-water performance, and the new heat exchanger, which has a bigger surface area and a co-moulded end cap, gives it excellent resistance to freezing. It has two highpressure ports and four low-pressure ports. It is equipped with Aqua Lung’s ACD (Auto Closure Device), which keeps corrosive water out of the first stage inlet by automatically closing as the reg is removed from the cylinder valve. On the second stage, the soft co-moulded purge button is effective and easy to locate and operate even with thick neoprene gloves, the Comfo-Bite mouthpiece is still one of the best on the market in my opinion, and the comoulded exhaust tee efficiently vents exhaled bubbles either side of your face. The Leg3nd Ultra has a venturi lever and a cracking resistance control knob, for complete independent control over the ease of the breathe. Again, regardless of thickness of exposure protection on the hands, the controls were easy to use, especially the cracking resistance control knob. It gave a silky smooth breathe in all orientations and is a good-looking unit to boot. www.aqualung.com
CHOICE 2020 GROUP TEST
REGULATORS
TECH SPECS & VERDICT VENTURI: Yes | CRACKING RESISTANCE: Yes | PROS: Eye-catching looks, smooth breathe, comfortable mouthpiece, build quality. CONS: Perhaps a little on the heavy side for travelling.
SCORE
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All pricing is in $AUD unless stated otherwise
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ATOMIC AQUATICS Z3 | SRP: $1,049 Atomic Aquatics are renowned for producing high-end, high-performance regs, but with the Z3, they have managed to bring all this workmanship and technology into a well-priced package. The Zirconium - that’s what the ‘Z’ stands for - delivers corrosion-resistance apparently three to four times that of conventional chrome plating, and the second stage lever, orifice and spring are titanium, as with the higher-spec (and price) models. It is equipped with a factory sealed first stage, huge purge button, comfort swivel, and no less than seven low-pressure ports and two high-pressure ports. As with all Atomic products, the reg benefits from a limited lifetime warranty - not contingent on proof of service and boasts a two-year/300 dive service interval. The Z3 scored very highly with the Test Team and it is a keenly priced way to get on the ‘Atomic’ ladder. It looks good with the chrome second stage surround, is extremely well made, boasts a silky smooth breathe and has some neat features like the Automatic Flow Control (AFC), which does away with a manual venturi lever and offers full control through the single knob, and a black PVD-coated comfort swivel on the hose. www.atomicaquatics.com
BEST VALUE 2020 GROUP TEST
REGULATORS
TECH SPECS & VERDICT VENTURI: AFC | CRACKING RESISTANCE: AFC | PROS: Well-made regulator with neat control system. Twoyear service interval. Lifetime warranty. CONS: First stage is fairly heavy.
SCORE
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HOLLIS 200LX DCX | SRP: $999 Hollis continues to forge a path into regulators, and the flagship 200LX DCX is well worth a look. The 200LX features a braided hose, large venturi lever, chunky cracking resistance control, and has a big purge. It can also be converted from right-hand to left-hand if you so wish. It has five low-pressure ports and two high-pressure ports on its DCX first stage. All metal components are have a PVD coating for added durability. As with all Hollis regulators, it comes with a lifetime warranty, only requires a service every two years - and you get service kits free-of-charge for the life of the regulator. As we noted with the 150LX last month, the super-comfy mouthpiece, which is soft but has harder inserts in the ‘bite’, is very reminiscent of Atomic Aquatics. The breathe on the 200LX is smooth and dry in all orientations, and the big, chunky venturi lever and cracking resistance control are both easy to use even wearing drygloves, as is the huge purge, which is effectively the entire front of the second stage. It looks good too, in an understated way with the PVD finish inserts, and I like the red-andblack colour scheme. www.hollis.com
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TECH SPECS & VERDICT VENTURI: Yes | CRACKING RESISTANCE: Yes | PROS: Good-looking regulator with well-designed controls. Two-year service interval. Lifetime warranty. CONS: DCX is not the lightest of first stages.
SCORE
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MARES EPIC ADJ 82X | SRP: $1,299 Mares gave their regulator line-up a serious overhaul for 2019, and the Epic Adj 82X still represents a formidable unit. The first stage is a solid piece of kit, with natural ‘dynamic flow control’ on all lowpressure ports, which are mounted on a swivel turret, and tilted so you can find that perfect routing. The all-metal second stage has a unique pivoting purge valve, lightweight braided Superflex hose, and a neat ‘twist’ control to boost the flow rate from natural breathing to power breathing, all of which was seen on the Fusion reg. However, the Epic also has a cracking resistance control knob for further fine-tuning of the breathe. Both the first and second stages have an eye-catching PVD coating, which not only looks great but also adds another degree of protection. The Epic Adj 82X put in a strong showing in this Group Test, and if anything, the Test Team felt we had to dial down the air flow it was so powerful. The pivoting purge and ‘motorcycle throttle’ venturi control was again well received, and the Team also liked the cracking resistance control, which although quite small compared with others here was still operable with thick gloves on. Good-looking, great-performing regulator. www.mares.com
TECH SPECS & VERDICT VENTURI: Yes | CRACKING RESISTANCE: Yes | PROS: Good-looking regulator with well-designed venturi lever. Two-year service interval. Lifetime warranty. CONS: Hefty solid first stage.
SCORE
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OCEANIC ZEO FDXI | SRP: $1,099 Oceanic are making inroads back into the reg market, and the Zeo is their range-topper. The FDXi first stage is small and compact, yet is still a pneumatically balanced and environmentally sealed diaphragm design, with four lowpressure ports and two high-pressure ports. The Zeo second stage is also pneumatically balanced and features a large venturi lever and big cracking resistance control knob to finetune the breathe. The oval face has a decent-sized purge, and a swivel aids comfort in use. The Zeo also benefits from Oceanic’s limited lifetime warranty and ‘free servicing parts for life’. The Zeo certainly stands out from the crowd, thanks both to its unique ovalshaped second stage and its bold white finish (a black version is also available). It is lightweight, so ideal for travelling divers, but equally coped well with this cold-water test, making it a good all-rounder. The large venturi lever and cracking resistance control knob were easy to use with gloved hands, and the purge was effective. A great little reg - and don’t forget that superb limited lifetime warranty. www.oceanicworldwide.com
TECH SPECS & VERDICT VENTURI: Yes | CRACKING RESISTANCE: Yes | PROS: The Zeo FDXi is light enough for travel but great in cold water too. Free service parts for life. Lifetime warranty. CONS: Effective purge, but quite small.
SCORE
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All pricing is in $AUD unless stated otherwise
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SCUBAPRO MK25 EVO D420 | SRP: $1,299 Scubapro has brought back the venerable D-series of regulators. The D420 is reminiscent of previous D-regs, with its unusual shape of second stage. It has a balanced valve which delivers abundant airflow regardless of depth, and the pivoting purge is highly efficient. The dive/pre-dive lever is mounted on the top, and is easy to find and operate even when wearing thick neoprene gloves. For this test it was paired with the proven MK25 EVO flow-through piston first stage, which is fully insulated from the environment by the XTIS (Extended Thermal Insulating System) and has numerous innovative design features to aid cold-water performance. It has two high-pressure ports and five low-pressure ports. The MK25 EVO and the D420 make a solid pairing. The tried-and-tested MK25, now in its improved EVO guise, is compact, durable and efficient, and its works well with the relatively compact and robust D420 second stage. It has to be said, that odd-looking second stage takes some getting used to, but there is no doubt that it provides a very smooth, easy breathe in all orientations. The mouthpiece is also very comfortable. www.scubapro.com
TECH SPECS & VERDICT VENTURI: Yes | CRACKING RESISTANCE: No | PROS: Superior performance, great purge, easy to use dive/pre-dive control, comfy mouthpiece. CONS: Odd looks may put some people off.
SCORE
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XDEEP NX700 LS200 | SRP: €580 Polish company xDeep has really earned itself a solid reputation for its robust, well-made and stylish backplate-and-wings, and it has now released its NX700/LS200 regulator. Let’s talk about that first stage. The NX700 is the definite show-stopper when it comes to this reg. It has two high-pressure ports and five low-pressure ports. The forged body is protected by a shiny chrome finish. It is an environmentally sealed overbalanced diaphragm design, with a heat exchanger ‘wrapped’ around the HP valve, so perfect for cold-water diving. So far, so normal. Where it all goes xDeep is the design of the body. The two high-pressure ports and two of the lowpressure ports come straight out of the main body, as per the norm, but on the front of the first stage is a large circular addition, which has another three low-pressure ports. This is a unique swivel, mounted on the face of the first stage instead of the top. It can be locked in place, or allowed to move freely, depending on whether you are diving a single cyliner, a twinset or sidemount. The second stage is more-traditional, with a cracking resistance control and venturi lever. The xDeep regs provided a smooth breathe, and the controls were simple to find and use. That first stage is certainly an eye-catcher. www.xdeep.eu
TECH SPECS & VERDICT VENTURI: Yes | CRACKING RESISTANCE: Yes | PROS: Eye-catching regulator (especially the first stage), good performance. Easy to use controls. CONS: Some people might be phased by the first stage.
SCORE
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All pricing is in $AUD unless stated otherwise
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HORIZON
A REVOLUTIONARY APPROACH
ZEAGLE F8 | SRP: $1,099 Zeagle have worked with Atomic Aquatics to produce a solidly constructed regulator. The F8 has an environmentally sealed balanced diaphragm first stage made from durable brass, and featuring a precisionmachined neoflon seat. The second stage has a tough nylon case and has a seat-saving orifice, zirconium-plated inlet tube and heat sink for superior corrosion resistance, and a new inhalation diaphragm. The redesigned front cover and cracking resistance control use co-molded components that provide high levels of grip. Zeagle have long been producing topquality BCDs and wings, and now they are well-established in the world of regulators after teaming up with the knowledgeable team at Atomic Aquatics. The first stage of the F8 is a compact but well-made unit, but we have to say that the second stage doesn’t actually look as eye-catching as its cheaper sibling, the Onyx II (which scored well last month). No doubting the performance of the F8, though - the breathe was nice and smooth in all positions, the cracking resistance control is large and easy to use, as is the venturi lever, and the mouthpiece is comfortable. www.zeagle.com
TECH SPECS & VERDICT VENTURI: Yes | CRACKING RESISTANCE: Yes | PROS: Overall a decent regulator. Large, easy to find and operate venturi and cracking resistance controls. CONS: Not as eye-catching as the Onyx II.
SCORE
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VERDICT Regulators are something we rely on underwater, so you want to know you can count on it, and none of these regs was found wanting, despite some, shall-wesay, robust testing! When it to the Best Value Award, it was a close-fought battle between the Hollis 200LX, Zeagle F8 and the Atomic Aquatics Z3. All three regulators performed admirably and coped well with all of the stresses we put them through, but the Z3 just nudged ahead thanks to its good looks, great performance and outstanding warranty and service interval. The Choice Award was another battle royale, with several regulators in the running. The Mares, xDeep, Apeks, Aqua Lung and Scubapro units all put in a sterling performance, but in the end the Leg3nd just nosed ahead. All effortlessly delivered air whatever we put them through, and all impressed the Test Team in different ways. After much debate, we ended up giving the Choice Award to the Aqua Lung, but it was a seriously close-run thing. All pricing is in $AUD unless stated otherwise
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SHEARWATER RESEARCH PEREGRINE | SRP: $775 Mark Evans: Canadian company Shearwater Research has rapidly carved itself a niche for high-performing, robust and, perhaps most importantly, user-friendly dive computers. The Petrel 2 gained a legion of followers, as did the Perdix AI, and then the Teric wristwatch unit. The innovative NERD II HUD also went down a storm. Now one of the things I particularly liked about the Perdix AI and the Teric was that while they were supremely capable dive computers, with abilities and features that would sate the desires of even the most-hardened technical diver, they were also so easy to use that even novice divers could happily put them into recreational mode and go diving. The fact that as the diver progressed in their diving career, the computer could easily ‘grow’ with them, was a major plus point in my eyes, and that ability to cope with recreational and open circuit/closed circuit technical diving could offset the purchase cost of the unit. However, there are plenty of people out there who just want to pootle along a pretty coral reef and never stray out of recreational depths. For them, the outlay for a computer that is capable of doing far more than they will ever dream of just isn’t worth the investment. That’s where the Peregrine comes in, with a very keen price point. It is still a very-capable decompression computer, with four diving modes - straightforward air mode, single nitrox (up to 40 percent), three-gas switchable nitrox (up to 100 percent) and gauge for the techies. This means it can still easily deal with entrylevel technical diving, and beyond - in gauge mode - if necessary. It has a vivid 2.2-inch LCD full-colour screen - with a user-customisable display - utilises the tried-andtested Buhlmann ZHL-16C algorithm with gradient factors, features an intuitive dive planner, and uses a simple twobutton control system for navigating the menus. Like the Teric, it can be wirelessly charged up - via the supplied USB wireless charging station - with each charge giving approximately 30 hours on medium brightness level. As with previous Shearwaters you can upload dive logs via wireless data transfer, and get free firmware updates. I have long extoled the virtues of my Perdix AI and Teric computers, so I was keen to get my hand on the Peregrine. Shearwater duly obliged and sent me a unit soon after the official global launch. First reactions? It exudes the quality we have come to expect from Shearwater. It comes in a zippered protective case like the Perdix AI and the Teric. On opening it, in a zippered section in the ‘lid’ you find the charging cable, a quality checklist card with hand-signed checks, and a short cheat-sheet explaining how to charge the unit, how to attach the strap, etc.
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In the main compartment, you find the Peregrine nestled securely in a dense foam surround. Lift it out, and you find the rubber wrist strap coiled around the outside, and the spindles and attachment tools in cutouts on the rear. Inside this foam, between the Peregrine itself and the tools you find the charging station. At the very bottom, you find the shock cord - an optional way to mount the computer on your wrist - along with a spare screen protector, and two Shearwater stickers. I opted to fit the rubber strap, as I have never been a fan of shock-cord straps, and it was doddle to attach. No fiddly spindles here - you get chunky units that use two (supplied) fat Philips-head screwdrivers to tighten into place. The rubber wrist strap is comfortable and holds the computer securely in place on your arm, but I have to be honest, I still prefer the elastic-and-pinch-clip straps on my Perdix AI. Switch on the computer, and the familiar blue-and-white colour scheme appears. For anyone who uses a Perdix AI, the screen display will be instantly recognisable - I tend to use my Perdix predominantly in Rec mode, as it is more than sufficient for most of the diving I am doing, and the screen display on the Peregrine is basically the same. All of the relevant information is right there in front of you - depth, dive time, the active gas, your max depth, time, water temperature, your NDl and tissue loading, and then your safety stop. As with my Perdix, it is extremely clear to read underwater, even when it is gloomy, and in fact, my buddy could read it from a few metres away! The navigation system on the Peregrine is just the same as on the Perdix AI, apart from the fact this time around you
get stainless steel buttons that have a nice ‘feel’ to them. Easy to use even with thick drygloves on. As with the Perdix, the menu on the Peregrine is very intutitive and even a new user could be happily bouncing around through the different areas in just a few minutes. I particular like the visual and vibration alerts from the Peregrine. I tend to switch off audible alarms (not that it has any) anyway as they just bug me, but the vibration is great - you can easily feel it through a wetsuit or even a drysuit. So what is the major difference between the Perdix AI and the Peregrine? Well, other than the aforementioned tech diving features, the big two are no compass, and no air integration. But look at that price. If you want air integration and a compass, as well as the additional tech options, go for the Perdix AI - or the Teric - but if these two features are not vital to you, then the Peregrine makes a solid choice. If you want to ‘pimp’ your Peregrine, optional colour wrist straps are available in Ocean Blue and White. www.shearwater.com
All pricing is in $AUD unless stated otherwise
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Heather Creech from the Scuba Divers Federation of South Australia talks about the Cuttlefish Alliance, protecting the giant cuttlefish migration at Whyalla, South Australia
The Cuttlefish Alliance
I
n June, the Scuba Divers Federation of South Australia (SDFSA) launched the Cuttlefish Alliance to bring together organisations and individuals concerned about the lifting of fishing restrictions on the giant cuttlefish. While the small permanent exclusion zone is still in place near Point Lowly, commercial and recreational fishers can now take cuttlefish on their migration into the permanent exclusion zone. An independent Advisory Committee has been convened by the SDFSA, representing scientific, economic and tourism interests. The Committee will prepare a position statement with recommendations to take to the Department of Primary Industries and Regions South Australia (PIRSA), based on science and the value of the giant cuttlefish migration to the tourism economy of Whyalla and South Australia. The SDFSA recognises the reality of multiple stakeholders and users of the marine environment. But as President, Andrew Hunter, noted in his letter to the editor of the Adelaide Sunday Mail, the substantial (and growing) economic benefit to the Whyalla region from
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this world-renowned event must also be considered. Numbers matter: hundreds of thousands of migrating cuttlefish attract tens of thousands of dollars from tourism. Reduce the impact of the spectacle and you reduce the level of tourism. A Facebook page has been set up to gather and share information, petitions, and campaigns to encourage PIRSA to reconsider restrictions on fishing for giant cuttlefish, especially during the period of the aggregation and reproduction. So far, it has reached over 16,000 people through Facebook. Radio, TV and newspaper media have been actively covering the controversy. Two petitions are currently underway: an electronic petition that will be sent to the Minister responsible for PIRSA, MP Tim Whetstone, and a formal petition (with original signatures) to be tabled in the SA Parliament by MP Eddie Hughes. The SDFSA ask everyone to consider supporting both petitions. The electronic petition (with over 5,600 signatures at the time of writing) is at https:// www.change.org/p/minister-tim-whetstone-protectwhyalla-s-giant-cuttlefish-aggregation. A copy of the formal petition can be found in most dive shops in South Australia, and efforts will be made to expand access to the formal petition interstate. SDFSA will make every effort track all initiatives on this matter. n To stay informed, follow the Cuttlefish Alliance on Facebook, at www.facebook.com/pg/ cuttlefishalliance
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MTX-RC REGULATOR CONTROL IN THE EXTREME
apeksdiving.com
There are many moments like this in the future.
EUROPEAN MADE
www.xdeep.eu