Scuba Diver Destinations #6 by scubadivermag

INTO RAJA AMPAT THE BEST DIVING HOTSPOTS IN ‘THE FOUR KINGS’

ENTER GOLIATH

WALT STEARNS DIVES WITH GIANT GROUPER OFF FLORIDA’S COAST

SIMPLY SOCORRO

WHY THIS REMOTE LOCATION DESERVES MORE RECOGNITION

Red Sea

ODYSSEY MICHELE WESTMORLAND IS SPELLBOUND BY EGYPT’S RICH UNDERWATER DIVERSITY BAHAMAS SHARK TRIFECTA

O2PTIMA CM CCR

MEET THE TEAM

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Mark Evans Email: mark@scubadivermag.com

A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR

Close to home

EDITOR-AT-LARGE (North America) Walt Stearns Email: walt@scubadivermag.com DESIGN & PRODUCTION MANAGER Matt Griffiths Email: matt@scubadivermag.com ADVERTISING & SPONSORSHIP Ross Arnold Email: ross@scubadivermag.com CONTRIBUTORS Don Silcock, Michele Westmorland, Jean-Pierre Nathrass

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hile many of us are still waiting for other countries to open their borders for diving, there is always the option of what is close at hand. For me, having the good fortune of living in South Florida, it’s the Palm Beach County Coast. This 45-mile-long stretch of Florida’s southeast coast is steeped with an incredible diversity of marine life. In the previous issue of Destinations, I covered some of the wonders one can find on blackwater dives six miles offshore in the Gulf Stream. This time around, I’m proud to showcase our Goliath grouper spawning aggregation that takes place every year during August and September. Sadly, at the same time as I’m writing this message, the Florida Fish and Wildlife (FWC) Commission made a disturbing decision (on 13 May 2021) regarding the future management of the Goliath grouper. As of now, the Commission is pushing for a reopening to fishing this giant grouper in the form of ‘Limited Harvest’. Why these fish are absent in most other places around the world is because they are surprisingly fragile to overfishing. The reason they have been able to flourish thus far is due to their protected status since 1990 from commercial fishing in US waters. To date, the majority of scientific data points to the fact that current stock recruitments for Goliaths is increasingly limited due to a number of influences. The growing loss of mangrove habitat (essential for the juvenile development), as well as massive algal blooms and red tide events caused by over-development, turns inshore waters toxic while also depriving it of oxygen. Additionally, the fish’s rate of mortality is further enlarged as they are also victims of commercial bycatch, improper handling during release by recreational fishers, and even poaching. Maybe we’re going about it all wrong. Instead of keeping this battle on a state level, perhaps there should be a campaign to get the Goliath grouper recorded on the Federal endangered species lists and bring this nonsense to a stop. As it stands, organizations like the ICUN and Oceana have categorized this species of giant grouper as ‘excessively threatened’ and listed as ‘critically endangered’ as a direct result of human fishing practices. If we don’t do something, we may see these giant reef fish fade away in Florida like they have throughout the rest of the world. If you feel that this is not the case, ask yourself when and where (Florida not included) have you last met a grouper as big as you or your buddy on a dive?

Walt Stearns, Editor-at-Large (North America)

Socorro Aggressor 2021 whale shark by Scott Johnson

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INTO RAJA AMPAT THE BEST DIVING HOTSPOTS IN ‘THE FOUR KINGS’

ENTER GOLIATH

WALT STEARNS DIVES WITH GIANT GROUPER OFF FLORIDA’S COAST

SIMPLY SOCORRO

WHY THIS REMOTE LOCATION DESERVES MORE RECOGNITION

Red Sea

ODYSSEY MICHELE WESTMORLAND IS SPELLBOUND BY EGYPT’S RICH UNDERWATER DIVERSITY BAHAMAS SHARK TRIFECA

O2PTIMA CM CCR

Cover & Spine.indd 1

Florida

20/05/2021 11:39

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF STUART PHILPOTT

Bahamas Socorro

GET ONLINE! CAN’T WAIT FOR YOUR NEXT ISSUE OF SCUBA DIVER DESTINATIONS? THEN LOG ON TO THE WEBSITE: WWW.SCUBADIVERDESTINATIONS.COM You’ll find all the latest diving news from around the world, in-depth travel reports, unbiased and comprehensive equipment reviews, hints and advice on diving techniques, underwater photography and videography, insights into diving medical issues, articles on conservation initiatives, Q&As with industry icons and legends, exciting competitions, and much, much more

NEWS IN BRIEF

Tom and Margo Peyton from Kids Sea Camp are recognised for their ‘outstanding contribution to the diving industry’, five manatees are rescued and released in Jacksonville, thousands of stricken sea turtles are plucked from frigid waters in Texas, and a new TV show is looking for on-screen talent!

THE BAHAMAS

Scuba Diver’s Senior Travel Editor Don Silcock heads to the islands of the Bahamas on a quest to dive with three of the world’s most-impressive shark species - oceanic whitetips (off Cat Island), great hammerheads (off Bimini) and tiger sharks (off Grand Bahama).

DIVERS ALERT NETWORK

The team from Divers Alert Network continue their focus on the human ear, and in this article, discusse some of the most-common ear issues - and offer tips on how to avoid and manage them.

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INSIDE THIS ISSUE

Egypt

Indonesia

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

MEXICO

INDONESIA

Goliath grouper are one of the most-awe-inspiring fish you can encounter on a dive, and Editor-at-Large (North America) Walt Stearns details the hot spots off the South Florida coast for massive annual aggregations of these megafish.

Socorro - a true ‘bucket list’ destination if ever there was one! This group of four islands is located in the Pacific Ocean, some 370 miles from the west coast of Mexico, and it offers some quite unique underwater experiences, as Don Silcock found out.

Jean-Pierre Nathrass showcases seven of the top dive sites in the world-renowned Raja Ampat, and presents a list of creatures large and small you should expect to encounter, as well as giving readers an insight into the daily lives and beliefs of the local Papuan people.

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EGYPT

The northern Red Sea offers a smorgasbord of reefs, walls and wrecks, all smothered in colorful coral growth, as Michele Westmorland found out during her inaugural trip to the area. She also ventures off down the iconic River Nile on an epic river cruise.

AGGRESSOR ADVENTURES: ROATAN

GEAR TEST EXTRA

Continuing our series of columns focusing on a particular diving destination, listing the top five dive sites you absolutely must do when you are there, as well as handy hints and advice, and all you need to know about the Aggressor Adventures’ vessel serving that area.

Scuba Diver Destinations Editor-at-Large (North America) Walt Stearns is a long-time user of semi-closed and fully-closed circuit rebreathers, and here he rates and reviews the 02optimaCM closed-circuit rebreather from technical diving specialists Dive Rite.

NEWS IN BRIEF

THOUSANDS OF ‘COLD-STUNNED’ TURTLES SAVED IN TEXAS Volunteers were involved in a Herculean effort to rescue thousands of turtles that had been left ‘cold-stunned’ due to the historic winter storm that hit the USA in mid-February. The temperature of the water off Texas dropped significantly and Sea Turtle Inc, a non-profit education, rehabilitation and conservation organisation in South Padre Island, rescued nearly 4,500 turtles in a single day. Executive Director Wendy Knight said that volunteers conducted the rescues on foot and via

boat, and thanks to assistance from the local community, local government and SpaceX, which has a nearby launch site, they had been able to find shelter for the stricken reptiles, and had power to run the center. Some 500 were safe in the organisation’s facility, SpaceX had another 850, and the city’s Convention and Visitors Bureau donated the South Padre Island Convention Center, which had more than 4,000 turtles in tarpaulins, children’s pools and plastic boxes crammed into every space floor space. The turtles were kept until conditions improved, and then the mammoth task of releasing them all back into the ocean had to begin.

TV SHOW SEEKS ADVENTUROUS NATURE LOVERS The producers of smash-hit TV shows such as Fast N Loud and Wicked Tuna are now searching for bold explorers who are ready to join a team of shark specialists and enthusiasts on a brand-new series for a major cable network. On each episode of this exciting new show, the intrepid crew will travel the East Coast of the USA by boat, delving into the thrilling world of shark behavior and American shark lore. It doesn’t matter if you’re a wildlife journalist, shark diving guide, tagger, conservationist, underwater photographer, marine biologist or amateur naturalist. As long as you’ve got an adventurous spirit and are passionate about sharks, this may be your chance to join the dynamic on-camera team on national television! Email PilgrimCasting@gmail.com with your name, phone number, city/state, recent photo of yourself and a brief explanation of why you are right for this show. 8

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NEWS IN BRIEF

MARGO AND TOM PEYTON RECOGNISED FOR ‘OUTSTANDING CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE SCUBA INDUSTRY’

FIVE MANATEES RELEASED BACK TO THE WILD Jacksonville Zoo is celebrating the release of five manatees after four years of manatee rescue and rehabilitation work. Jacksonville Zoo and Gardens had been caring for five manatees at the Manatee Critical Care Center – the most animals that have been housed in the facility at the same time – and celebrated their successful release at Blue Spring State Park in early March. Females Amelia and Irma were released after spending almost a year at Jacksonville Zoo and Gardens. Their manatee rescue story began four years ago, when they were rescued as orphaned calves and taken to SeaWorld Orlando in 2017. Orphaned manatees need to be large enough before they can return to the wild, so Amelia and Irma came to Jacksonville on 20 February 2020 to continue their development. Three males were also released at Blue Spring, each coming to the Zoo this winter to be treated for symptoms of cold stress, including skin lesions and dehydration. When manatees spend too much time in water colder than 68 degrees F, cold stress starts to occur and will affect many organ systems. Manatees migrate to warm water sources in the winter, such as springs and powerplant discharges, but sometimes become entrapped in areas with cold water and may not make it to the warmer water. Two of the males were entrapped and rescued in Merritt Island on 29 December and 11 January. The third was rescued in the Ortega River in Jacksonville on 18 January. Each manatee was outfitted with a satellite tag and will be monitored to ensure they are adapting in the wild and staying in the warm water.

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Margo and Tom Peyton from Kids Sea Camp have been recognised by PADI for ‘outstanding contributions to the scuba industry and family travel’. PADI recognized Margo and Tom Peyton’s outstanding accomplishments and notable influence on the scuba industry and family travel at a special virtual ceremony on 21 April 2021. Throughout the past 21 years, the Peytons and Kids Sea Camp have certified more than 7,600 kids, and enabled thousands of families to discover shared passions for the sport. More than 100 people from the PADI Family and across the industry joined to celebrate the owners of Kids Sea Camp as they were presented with a PADI Lifetime Achievement Award, only the second such award given to date. “Margo and Tom are true inspirations who embody the values that matter most to them: love of family, diving, the ocean and travel,” said Drew Richardson, President and CEO of PADI Worldwide. “They have transformed the hearts and minds of over 7,000 heirs to the ocean and will continue to do so in the decades to come. They are the ultimate influencers in creating ocean torchbearers – an inspiration to thousands of all ages, genders and cultures. They continue to build bridges and connections across generations and the global community.” “I want to thank PADI and all our families for having faith and trust in Margo and our company,” said Tom Peyton, Vice President of Kids Sea Camp. “Faith and trust are the very foundations of the Kids Sea Camp success story. We try to treat everyone as part of our family.” Members of the PADI Family joined Richardson in honoring the Peytons, speaking of the deep friendships developed over the last two decades. They share stories of their remarkable contributions that embody the soul of ocean exploration and conservation, opening doors for families to bond through diving and enriched with international cultures. The words pioneers, leaders, role models, and inspiration were a common theme. Friends and business partners from across the industry shared congratulatory messages and well-wishes from across the globe.

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Tiger sharks

Tiger Beach is firmly established as one of those global diving destinations that almost everybody has heard of, with that fame largely derived from the many published images of its most-celebrated visitor Galeocerdo cuvier, the tiger shark. Tigers are considered one of the ‘big three’ mostdangerous sharks and, along with the great white and bull shark, are believed to be responsible for the vast majority of unprovoked attacks on humans. They are renowned for their inherently predatory behavior where, much like their terrestrial namesakes, they close in on their intended prey slowly and silently before pouncing with deadly efficiency. They are also infamous for consuming almost anything and are often referred to as the ‘garbage cans of the sea’ after inspection of dead tiger stomach contents have revealed everything from sheep, goats and even horses to bottles, tyres, license plates and (believe it or not) explosives! Tiger sharks are one of the ocean’s largest sharks

and typically grow to between ten and 16 feet in length and weigh in at around 700lb-1,500lb. They are formidable creatures with an intimidating reputation – so how can it be that week after week in the season, dozens of divers enter the waters of Tiger Beach for open-water, eyeball-to-eyeball encounters?

Tiger Beach isn’t a Beach… Physically, Tiger Beach is about a square mile in overall size and is located on the western edge of Little Bahama Bank, about 30km west of the town of West End on the north Bahamian island of Grand Bahama. And… the first thing you need to know about Tiger Beach is that it isn’t one – it is actually a shallow sand bank that looks like there is a beach nearby. The general area used to be known locally as Dry Bank and was first dived by Captain Scott Smith, of the Dolphin Dream liveaboard, back in the late 1980s.

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Scuba Diver Senior Travel Editor Don Silcock ventures to the Bahamas to dive with three of the world’s mostspectacular sharks - the magnificent oceanic whitetip, the awe-inspiring great hammerhead, and the majestic tiger Photography Don Silcock

Tiger sharks are often referred to as the ‘garbage cans of the sea’ as bizarre items found in their stomachs include licence plates!

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PREVIOUS PAGE Tigers have a commanding presence BELOW Home away from home on Grand Bahama

But who actually started the whole shark diving thing is the subject of great discussion! Scott Smith would seem to be who started tempting sharks into the back of Dolphin Dream on those early trips, while the legendary Jim Abernathy, owner of the Shearwater liveaboard, seems to be the person who first took bait boxes into the water in late2003 and renamed the area Tiger Beach. Whoever did what does not really matter now, but this is undoubtedly the premiere location in the world for tiger shark encounters.

Eye of the Tiger… Arriving for the first time at Tiger Beach is somewhat of a soul-searching experience. Because it’s one thing to read and hear about the sharks that congregate there, but quite another to actually be there preparing for that first dive. Particularly when there are up to a dozen two to three metre sharks circling the back of the boat and lots of others visible in the clear waters! The briefings provided on these trips are both

extensive and exemplary, with everything clearly explained in a logical and non-sensational way - from how to prepare to go in the water, how to enter the water and what to do when under the water. But the fact of the matter is that waiting for a gap in the patrolling sharks and then carefully rolling in among them is not something you do on a daily basis… Once underwater however, nerves settle and an awareness starts to form for the sharks and their behavior patterns. Tigers have an incredibly commanding presence that indicates they know their place at the top of the food chain. They move slowly and carefully, checking out what is going on and the other sharks clearly defer to them. The protocol at Tiger Beach is that you should always know where the tigers are, and you should always face them – literally keeping the eye of the tiger in view at all times! Tigers are intelligent and curious animals that tend to approach divers because their sensory systems pick up the electrical signals emitted from our instruments and photo gear.

It really is a big deal to be there and the first few days are a kaleidoscope of feelings – fear, awe, intimidation, excitement and an incredible sense of adventure at what you have done IT’S ALL IN THE STRIPES...

The tiger shark gets its name from the characteristic vertical bars that covers the sides of its body.

AWE-INSPIRING ANIMALS

Tiger sharks are one of the ocean’s largest sharks and typically grow between ten to 16 feet in length, and weighing in at 700lb-1,500lb that is a seriously impressive fish! 14

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Tiger sharks are considered one of the world’s most-dangerous sharks, alongside the great white shark and the bull shark.

MY, WHAT BIG TEETH YOU HAVE...

Tiger shark teeth have dramatic notch tips that point sideways. The teeth have a dual function to grasp on to struggling victims, and shear right through the thickest of hides and shells.

Petting Zoo? Being in the open-water with so many large and potentially very dangerous sharks verges on a life-changing experience. The first few days are a kaleidoscope of feelings – fear, awe, intimidation, excitement and an incredible sense of adventure. Then a degree of complacency starts to settle in and this for me is when Tiger Beach can potentially become dangerous. You are not really seeing them in their natural environment and, in a way yes, it is a kind of petting zoo.

LEFT Feeder gets up close and personal with a tiger shark ABOVE The business end of a tiger shark

Or the Real Deal… Tiger Beach is quite unique in that there really us nowhere else like it. Where you can be in the open water in ‘relative’ safety with so many large and potentially dangerous sharks? The relative in safety comes from the fact that the sharks at Tiger Beach have basically become accustomed to the presence of divers and, because they have plenty of other things to eat, they do not regard us as a principal food source. So… while it is absolutely not a completely natural setting, there is simply nothing else like it if you want to see these creatures up-front and personal. It is the real deal!

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SCAN ME

TO START YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE!

The great hammerhead has a unique and distinguished presence in the water, cautious but confident and seemingly in control to the environment

I EAT CANNIBALS...

Great hammerhead sharks are believed to be cannibalistic, eating their own species if needs be in the fight for survival.

Great hammerhead sharks

Like a fashion model up on the catwalk, great hammerheads sashay into your field of vision and, if they were human, you would probably say they have just ‘made an entrance’. Their strange mallet-like head, robust body girth and tall sickle-shaped dorsal fin makes them well-nigh instantly recognizable and most other sharks in the immediate area spot that too and give them a wide berth. The great hammerhead has a unique and distinguished presence in the water, cautious but confident and seemingly in control of the environment. As they approach, their distinctive head sweeps from side to side, causing the rest of their body to move in an almost snake-like manner. My first close encounter with a great hammerhead shark was in the Solomon Islands and although it was fleeting, it left me thinking about how a Jamaican mate of mine used to walk into the pub back in England - dressed in his best suit, cigar in hand and scanning the room in search of a date for the evening! But like all sharks, these magnificent animals have been impacted dramatically by the seemingly insatiable

The great hammerhead is the largest species of hammerhead shark, attaining an average length of over 15 feet.

demand for shark-fin soup in China, the status dish of choice at the ubiquitous celebratory banquets. That large dorsal fin, which makes hammerheads so distinguishable, is very highly prized in the Hong Kong markets that cater to the Chinese shark-fin trade. So, encounters with the great hammerhead shark are particularly rare these days – everywhere, that is, except in South Bimini where, come winter, a sizeable number of these elusive sharks aggregate around the island’s waters.

South Bimini – Great Hammerhead Central The islands of North and South Bimini are located on the western edge of the Bahamas archipelago, just 53 miles to the east of Florida, making them very popular with large boat owners from America’s Sunshine State. South Bimini is also the location of Dr Samuel Gruber’s Shark Lab where, for over 25 years, significant research has been conducted into the sharks and rays of this part of the Bahamas. ‘Doc’ Gruber sadly passed away in April 2019, a few weeks before his 82 birthday after a 50-plus year career. ‘Doc’ Gruber picked Bimini because of its

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HAMMER TIME

Great hammerheads have been observed using the sides of their heads to pin down their preferred prey - stingrays - while feeding on the ray’s wings.

WRECK HUNTERS SEASON ONE 2021

Calling would-be undersea detectives! A unique opportunity to take part in the beginning of a diving archaeology programme is opening up in the summer of 2021* on the Caribbean island of Utila. The Wreck Hunters project is offering a onemonth, limited availability window for divers to be a part of the Season One team. The focus this year is about getting to the heart of the story of a wreck called ‘The Oliver’, its rich history and the life of 18th Century mariners. Learn the skills of undersea archaeology, from traditional to cutting edge techniques. If you’re a relatively experienced diver with skills or experience in drawing (artistic or technical), surveying, photography or in construction work this could be just what you’re looking for (See website for full details). Project Director Mike Haigh’s ideal candidates have a ‘good sense of humour’ and enjoy teamwork. Check out www.wreckhunters.co.uk Or Telephone: +44 0117 9596454 So if you think this project would help put a smile on your face, why not get in touch to find out more at

www.wreckhunters.co.uk info@wreckhunters.co.uk *COVID restrictions may result in a change of operation dates.

WreckHunters__US.indd 1

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19/01/2021 11:50

large resident population of lemon sharks that use the large, mangrove-fringed lagoon system to the east of the north island as a nursery for its young, making it almost the perfect spot for research. The Shark Lab first became aware of the reliable presence of great hammerheads back in 2002, but managed to keep the news to themselves for over ten years. Word did eventually get out and without doubt, South Bimini is now firmly established as Great Hammerhead Central!

DOWN IN THE DEEP

Great hammerheads have been found at depths of 980ft, but typically stay in coastal waters up to 260ft.

Face to Face Hammerheads are known to be aggressive hunters that feed on smaller fish, octopus, squid, and crustaceans, but are not known to attack humans unless they are provoked. In Bimini they are tempted in close by feeding them and the whole thing is carefully organized to give the participants maximum exposure to the animals. That is done by limiting the number of people in the water at any time to six participants, one ‘feeder’ and a safety diver watching your backs. The feeder is in the middle with an aluminum bait box (to keep the sharks from getting over excited…) and there are three participants on either side who rotate positions after 15 minutes, so everybody gets a turn next to the box, where it can get very exciting! There are usually 12 people on a trip, so after 45 minutes you get a tap on the shoulder as it’s time to give up your place and return to the boat. The safety diver is there not because of the hammerheads who often roam around behind you, but because of the bull sharks that are also quite common in Bimini… The reality is that any real danger in Bimini comes from those bull sharks rather than the great hammerheads – hence the safety diver. All this is in about 40ft of water, so air consumption is minimal, and deco is not really an issue, so the show goes on all day. But interestingly the first hammerheads only show up about ten in the morning, so it’s a leisurely start every day. During the day it is very easy to become lulled into a false sense of security as the hammerheads appear out of the distant blue, sashay in towards the baitbox where they basically take the offered bait and then exit to the left or right.

The Ethics of It All… Feeding sharks as a tourist attraction is a contentious subject and there are two basic schools of thought about its overall wisdom. The nay-sayers are adamant that it induces dangerous behavioral changes in the sharks by conditioning them to approach humans for food and therefore promoting the same (potentially…) dangerous behaviour that occurs when bears, lion or crocodiles are fed. The argument goes that sharks will be unable to differentiate between an encounter where they will

DON SILCOCK

In more normal times, Scuba Diver’s Senior Travel Editor Don is based from Bali in Indonesia, but is currently hunkered down in Sydney… His website www.indopacificimages.com has extensive location guides, articles and images on some of the best diving locations in the Indo-Pacific region and ‘big animal’ experiences globally.

Great hammerhead sharks have been found with stingray and catfish barbs sticking out of their mouths, suggesting that they are somehow immune to stingray and catfish venom, which can be fatal for other fish species.

The reality was that any real danger in Bimini came from these bull sharks rather than the great hammerheads

be fed and one where they won’t – thereby greatly increasing the risk to humans. The counter argument being the benefits that flow to the local communities from the tourism revenue and the lack of any substantial evidence of behavioral change. There is no real data to support either case, so we are firmly in the realm of anecdotes and opinions… However, given that his life’s work has been the study of sharks, the opinion of ‘Doc’ Gruber deserves to be heard and it is very clear. “The relative risks are nil, and the relative benefits are great” is how he describes it, while conceding that there is some alteration of the shark’s behaviour, but it is not significant and normal patterns of migration are not impacted. In other words, the availability of food in South Bimini during the main great hammerhead dive-tourism season does not change the way that the sharks behave overall. They turn up at the feeding stations for a snack, but continue to do all the other things they normally do. Plus, there is no evidence at

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all of increased aggression towards humans from the feeding of the great hammerheads. All that said, perhaps the biggest impact from these quite unique in-water encounters is that virtually all of the participants leave the Bahamas as confirmed shark ambassadors, which has to be a good thing given the ridiculous and irresponsible media coverage given to sharks generally! Sharks have an incredibly significant role to play in the ocean. Without them the dead, the dying, the diseased and the dumb of the oceans can pollute and degrade the health of those ecosystems and the genetic quality of its inhabitants. The many species of sharks are there for a reason and they have evolved superbly, in true Darwinian fashion, to execute their mission. Remove the sharks and disruption occurs, something marine scientists refer to rather prosaically as ‘trophic cascades’ – think of the shark as the first in a long-line of finely balanced dominos and if it is tipped over, the rest start to go down as well.

PREVIOUS PAGE, TOP LEFT Great hammerhead snarfing up a piece of fish PREVIOUS PAGE, MIDDLE Smile for the camera! PREVIOUS PAGE, BOTTOM Great hammerhead and bull shark ABOVE You can even do the hammerhead dive at night! LEFT Divers can get up close and personal with great hammerheads

The oceanic whitetip is a slow swimmer, with equal amount of activity during the day and night.

MOST DANGEROUS?

Jacques Cousteau considered the oceanic whitetip shark ‘the most dangerous of all sharks’, noting the occurrence of attacks on shipwreck survivors.

Cat Island is a very three-dimensional experience, because you are in blue water and your only point of reference is the white bait crate suspended in front of you at 30ft

ABOVE Oceanic whitetips are a very impressive-looking shark

Oceanic whitetips

It seems almost unbelievable that as recently as the mid-1960s, the oceanic whitetip shark (Carcharhinus longimanus) was widely considered to be one of the most-abundant large animals in the world. Now, almost 60 years later, these sharks are on the IUCN Red List as ‘vulnerable’ globally and ‘critically endangered’ in the north and central western areas of the Atlantic Ocean. Found in all tropical and sub-tropical waters across the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans, but rarely seen in coastal waters, oceanics roamed free in a never-ending search for food and, with few predators and limited industrial-scale fishing, the sheer bounty of the oceans had allowed it to become such a populous species. But as the market for shark fins expanded almost exponentially in China, so did the demand for large, open-ocean fish such as tuna, mackerel, mahi-mahi and swordfish, leading to the development of the deadly fishing methodology referred to as ‘long-lining’ While oceanic whitetips are not specifically targeted by the long-liners, they provide a lucrative

sideline as their large and distinctive fins are highly prized in the international fin trade.

Underwater encounters Until recently the Red Sea was generally considered as the best place to see and photograph oceanic whitetips – typically in remote locations such as the Brother Islands and Elphinstone in Egypt, or the isolated reefs of southern Sudan. Significantly though, these sightings are generally of lone individuals or very small groups and little is known about the overall population of oceanics in the Red Sea or their migration patterns. Oceanic whitetips are formidable animals that can reach almost four metres in length when fully mature and have a reputation to match their size… with Jacques Cousteau once describing them as ‘the most dangerous of all sharks’. They will come in very close and even bump you – often repeatedly, which is obviously quite disconcerting to the uninitiated… but it seems that this is simply their way of checking you out.

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ABOVE Oceanic whitetips will approach divers very closely

Once a common sight in the deep offshore waters around the Bahamas, from around the early 1980s oceanic whitetips became increasingly rare and it was generally assumed they had been completely cleared out by long-lining. Then, around 2005, the fishing community at Cat Island started to complain about sharks stealing their catches - behaviour that oceanics are renowned for - but it was another year before it became clear that something quite special was happening. Quite who made the discovery is not clear, as it seems both a BBC film crew and National Geographic photographer Brian Skerry were there about the same time, both following up on the same lead. Over the last five or six years, the Bahamas has firmly established itself as the ‘shark diving capital of the world’ largely because of the tiger and lemon shark encounters at Tiger Beach on Grand Bahama and those with the great hammerheads at Bimini. Those encounters are what I would describe as a two-dimensional experience, where you are typically kneeling on a sandy area in shallow water and the sharks usually approach you from the front. So, it is all reasonably predictable and relatively easy for the support divers to literally ‘watch your back’. Cat Island however is very much a threedimensional experience, because you are in blue water and your only point of reference is the white bait crate that is suspended at about 30ft. The oceanics are attracted by the bait, but are not actually fed, as the mere scent seems to be enough to keep them engaged… and engaged they truly are, exhibiting no fear and approaching extremely close – often to the point of bumping your dome port! They also sneak up from behind, above and below, often coming so close that they touch you with those long fins. As exciting as all that is, I never really felt in any real danger as it all seems part of their pattern of testing to see if you are the weakest link and worthy of further investigation. n

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

The Bahamas GETTING THERE There are 20 international airports throughout the islands, with many people flying into Nassau and then taking connecting flights to the other islands. WHEN TO GO Trade wins bless the Bahamas with warm weather year-round, with summer highs of 8-90 degrees F, and winter lows of 70 degrees F. CURRENCY The Bahamian dollar is the national currency of the Bahamas and is equivalent to the US dollar. ENTRY REQUIREMENTS For visits under 30 days, US and Canadian travelers just require a passport with six months left to expiry. ELECTRICITY On the Bahamas, the standard voltage is 120V and the frequency is 60Hz, with a North American-style plug socket.

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DIVERS ALERT NETWORK

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EAR ANATOMY, CARE AND EQUALIZATION

PART TWO: HOW TO MANAGE EAR TROUBLE

The Divers Alert Network team focus their attention on the human ear

ven with a sound understanding of how pressure affects divers’ ears and practical knowledge of equalization techniques, divers still experience ear problems. Here are a few of the most-common and some tips for avoiding and managing them.

Middle-ear barotrauma Middle-ear barotrauma (MEBT) is the most-common dive injury. It occurs when pressure in the air space of the middle ear is not equalized to the ambient pressure. This can happen while flying or diving and can lead to ruptured ear drums. The Eustachian tube connects the throat to the middle ear and enables pressure equalization. When there is an obstruction in the Eustachian tube, equalization is not possible. If the pressure in the middle ear is lower than the pressure of the surrounding tissue, there is negative pressure in the middle-ear space. The tissues swell, the eardrum bulges inward, and fluid may begin to leak from the tissues. If a diver is having problems equalizing, middle-ear pressure during descent will first feel like clogged ears. Further descent will increase to severe pain. MEBT can be prevented through proper equalization and avoidance of diving while congested.

Alternobaric vertigo When the two ears are equalized differently, alternobaric vertigo may result. First documented in 1965, alternobaric vertigo is caused by unequal pressurization of the two middle ears, which causes the brain to perceive the difference as movement. Beyond the vertigo, additional symptoms may include ringing in the ears and fullness or muffled hearing in one or both ears. Nausea and vomiting can occur in severe cases, as can involuntary eye movement. Symptoms persisting more than a few minutes may indicate a more serious condition. While alternobaric vertigo can happen during descent or ascent, it is most-commonly associated with ascent. Simple ways to reduce the likelihood of alternobaric include proper equalization and not diving while congested.

Swimmer’s ear When ears are exposed to water and warm conditions for too long, inflammation and infection can arise in the ear canal, resulting in swimmer’s ear (otitis externa). The protective barriers lining the ear canal can weaken, resulting in pain or discharge. Water can enter the tissues lining the ear canal, creating opportunity for bacteria normally found on the surface of the ear canal to penetrate the skin and find an environment conducive to elevated growth. Swimmer’s ear is more likely to develop if the skin is already chafed. Symptoms include itchy ears, pain, tenderness and swelling of the ear canal. If untreated, swelling can infiltrate nearby lymph nodes and create enough pain that moving the jaw is uncomfortable. Prevention is often as simple as rinsing your ears with fresh water after diving or simply keeping them clean and dry. If you experience recurring swimmer’s ear, you may be able to prevent it by rinsing your ears with a 1:1 mixture of vinegar and isopropyl alcohol after your last dive of the day. As your ears are used for so much more than just hearing, how you manage them while diving is incredibly important. Learn and practice various ear equalization techniques, and practice good aural hygiene. And if at any point during your dive you can’t equalize, abort. Listen to your body. n

ABOVE Female doctor looks into the ear of a patient

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Goliath grouper are believed to be protogynous hermaphrodites, which refer to organisms that are born female and, at some point in their lifespans, change sex to male. Most grouper follow this pattern, but it has not yet been verified for the Goliath.

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The months of August and September are Goliath grouper spawning season, an annual event that takes place at a handful of key sites spread out between Palm Beach County’s eastern shoreline and the southern Gulf of Mexico

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EGG-STATIC

Goliath grouper are one of the most-awe-inspiring fish you can encounter on a dive, and Walt Stearns explains the hot spots for massive aggregations of these mega-fish

A four-foot-long female caught at a spawning aggregation contained more than 57 million eggs!

Photography Walt Stearns

oliath grouper (Epinephelus itajara) are the largest predatory, reef-dwelling boney fish in the tropical Atlantic and Caribbean. To lay eyes on one can turn a dive into a ‘wow’ moment as these grouper can be as big around as a barrel, and weighing as much as 500lbs. Size one up next to your dive buddy, the question of the hour is - who is bigger? Sadly, your odds of seeing one in your travels most anywhere in the Caribbean will range from exceedingly rare to non-existent due to overfishing. It goes without saying that the majority of destinations have even eradicated the fish entirely from their waters, making this big fish a subject of a bygone era decades in the past. But off the coast of South Florida, it is a far different story, as these mammoth grouper are currently a protected species, making the likelihood of meeting one face to face just about a guarantee – provided you know where to go. For me, the Palm Beach County Coast is without question ‘the place’ to find them. Drop in on a wreck or reef formation with a deep undercut and you’re bound to encounter a Goliath grouper. Goliaths are such a regular attraction here that many dive charter operations have named several individuals, such as Shadow, Braveheart and Wilber. Seeing one, two or even three of these giant grouper together makes for a moment few are likely to ever forget. Come the end of summer, a very special event occurs that divers will not find anywhere else on the planet - Goliath grouper spawning aggregations, with everything from 40 to as many as 90-plus fish in attendance.

Goliath grouper spawning season The months of August and September are Goliath grouper spawning season, an annual event that takes place at a handful of key sites spread out between Palm Beach County’s eastern shoreline

The Florida wildlife commission is looking at making changes to a 31-year ban on catching Goliath grouper. The ban was imposed after the fish neared extinction, but now there is talk of a ‘harvest’, and discussions about licensing and possible restrictions continue.

YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT...

Goliath grouper are voracious predators and eat crustaceans, other fish, octopus, young sea turtles, sharks and barracuda. They have even been seen attacking large lemon sharks.

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Goliaths don’t have it easy

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TO START YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE!

Something else to consider when witnessing these encounters is that the spawning even was once quite common, and now it has become uniquely rare. The historical range for Goliath grouper once spanned the entire breath of the tropical Atlantic from the Southeastern US down through the Caribbean and the Central American coast to Brazil, as well as the West African coast in the Gulf of Guinea. Due to relentless fishing pressure throughout their range, the Goliath species sits on the edge of being wiped out, which is why the IUCN has them ‘Red Listed’ as a critically endangered species. Currently, Florida is the only region where stocks have returned from a state of collapse. This makes Florida’s spawning critically important to the survival of the species.

Goliaths are such a regular attraction here that many dive charter operations have named several individuals, such as Shadow, Braveheart and Wilber and the southern Gulf of Mexico 40 miles offshore on Florida’s west coast. Between these two regions, the Palm Beach Coast is the most accessible, as the aggregation sites for Florida’s east coast population is a mere three to five miles offshore, with water depths averaging 65ft-100ft. Compared to most other species of grouper, the Goliath’s path to romance is more marathon than sprint, starting with resident fish assembling around the end of July on specific sites like the MG-111 and the Zion Train/Bonaire wrecks in Jupiter, the Ana Cecilia/Mizpah wrecks in West Palm Beach and down to the Castor wreck off Boynton Beach. By mid-August, resident fish are joined by their northern neighbors, some having traveled as far as 350 miles up the coast, swelling the

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ranks of a given site to as many as 50 or more. Despite their formidable size and somewhat dense demeanor, Goliaths are not the ferocious brutes some spearfishermen would like you to believe. For the most part, they can be big babies. When threatened, they sound off with a short series of loud booms, sometimes accompanied by a brief succession of head and body shakes that make the fish look like it’s having a mild seizure. This is generally all posturing with few barks but no bite, typically ending with the fish retreating to a safer distance or disappearing into a deep hole in the reef or wreck the moment their bluff is called. During spawning season, there is even less to be afraid of, as the fish are no more territorial than they are at any other time of the year.

PREVIOUS Goliath grouper massed around the bow of a shipwreck MIDDLE Goliaths flock to wrecks ABOVE Goliath grouper are an impressive fish LEFT Aggregations are seriously aweinspiring

Will I see them spawn? What divers typically see during daylight hours on any given spawning aggregation site are a collection of colossal Goliaths either formed in a single group, or in a collection of subgroups hanging close to one another. Typically. the fish will mill about idly as if saying, ‘OK, we’re all here, now what?’ A feature that has frustrated fishery biologists and underwater photographers alike is that Goliath grouper don’t follow the same spawning ritual as their closer kin, the Nassau grouper (Epinephelus striatus). Nassau grouper generally spawn in mass under a full moon during winter, whereas Goliaths will spawn under the cover of complete darkness over a six-to-seven-night period during the new moon of August and September. This behavior has made it thus far impossible for anyone to document the actual spawning act.

ABOVE Goliaths surrounded by bait fish MIDDLE Goliath grouper can attain huge sizes RIGHT Group of Goliath grouper sheltering in a wreck NEXT PAGE, TOP Reef shark NEXT PAGE, MIDDLE Shoal of bigeye NEXT PAGE, BOTTOM Diver photographing a shipwreck

Even a large group of 20 or more grouper will not stand in your way should you advance into their space. If anything, they will often break to one side or the other like a group of park pigeons. Overall, the Goliath’s behavior around divers falls into three categories. Either reclusive as in ‘Keep your distance, I don’t trust you’, or total indifference as in ‘Oh, you’re here again, what else is new?’ And then, occasionally, you might run into a fish or two that not only doesn’t move away, but makes a point of coming up to say ‘hello’. Don’t be surprised if she decides to saddle up next to you or your buddy. When a Goliath is this compliant, you can do almost anything short of giving it a bear hug. Some of the local underwater photographers refer to these fish as ‘supermodels’, because they will hold position, allowing the diver to fire shot after shot! If you happen to meet one of these fish, there are a few simple rules to follow:

LONG-DISTANCE TRAVELER

Goliath grouper have been known to travel more than 100 miles to spawn. Spawning goliath grouper form impressive aggregations of up to 100 or more individuals.

1. Don’t put your hands in front of its face, as this could result in the fish biting you. 2. Keep your movements slow and deliberate, as like anyone else, they do not enjoy being surprised. 3. Don’t chase the fish. Your best results will come by following rule #2. As a longtime resident of Palm Beach, Florida, I feel highly privileged to have been able to spend a considerable number of years diving with these quite large charismatic, albeit slightly goofy-looking megafauna. Among my list of most-memorable seasonal gatherings goes back to 2001, when the first spawning aggregation returned to a site called the Hole-in-the-Wall. The aggregation took place after a three-decade absence. Back then, there were just 27 fish, but it was really cool to witness. On a dive in 2012 on the Zion Train/Bonaire wreck site, which sits in 90ft of water,

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Goliath grouper have an amazing life expectancy, and can live for nearly 40 years. Their age can be estimated using annual growthrings found in their dorsal fin rays, much like those that are located within tree trunks.

I was able to count 90-plus individuals. Among my collection of images that season is a shot with 67 fish in one frame. In terms of sheer numbers of fish gathered in one setting, near the close of the season in lateSeptember, the Boynton Beach area’s Castor wreck – which sits in 110ft, with a 60ft profile – once took on an unprecedented number of fish that surpassed 130, whereas just days before the number of fish present was less than half that figure. This unusual influx is most likely due to a string of cold-water upwellings that plagued the spawning sites in the Jupiter and West Palm area, causing the fish to go south to avoid it. Goliaths are not fans of cold water. Now that the 2021 spawning season is close at hand, I’m in a high state of anticipation as to what I might see next time I drop in on that special wreck. I hope to be greeted once again by 40 to 50 of these mammoth grouper. Wanna join me?

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Goliaths: Is that all there is? Palm Beach County’s coast offers far more than Goliath grouper. This 45-mile-long stretch along Florida’s southeast coast is often called the Florida Gold Coast, a title that originated because actual treasure lost by Spanish galleons that sank offshore was found in the region. But this region is steeped with an incredible diversity of marine life. On any given dive, in addition to Goliath grouper, divers are often treated to encounters with sea turtles (all five of the Atlantic’s species come here), sharks (lemons, bulls, and reef are the region’s trademark species), and of course, loads of fish life. The primary influencer here is the Gulf Stream, the second largest oceanic current on the planet, flowing northward from the western Caribbean past the Florida Coast, and on into the North Atlantic all the way to the British Isles. This mighty ‘river within the sea’ not only provides divers with clearer water than anywhere else along Florida’s east coast, but its constant flow also enlivens the area reefs and wrecks, bringing the nutrition needed for corals, sponges, and fish life to thrive. When it comes to wreck diving, Palm Beach County is also unique. It’s fairly well-known that most diving destinations provide access to more than just one wreck, but few have these sunken vessels concentrated in a way that a diver can actually explore two to four wrecks on a single submersion. For example, the site local operators call The Corridor is comprised of six wrecks resting on the bottom in linear fashion. The purpose of this is so that divers working with the Gulf Stream’s northerly flow can bounce from wreck to wreck. The first in line here is the Ana Cecilia, a 170-foot cargo ship sitting upright on the bottom, followed by the remains of the Mizpah and PC-1174, which are then followed by the Amaryllis. You then can hit the China Barge, an upside-down 80-foot barge, and the Brazilian Docks, piles of concrete dock rubble and culverts. The Corridor is by no means Palm Beach County’s only signature wreck combination. A short boat ride from the Lake Worth Inlet is Governor’s Riverwalk. Governor’s is comprised of four large coastal freighters that were placed on the bottom (depth 90ft) in February 2002 as part of Palm Beach County’s Artificial Reef Program. The first three went down in consecutive order, starting with the Shasha Boekanier (length 184 feet) first, followed by the St Jacques (length 180 feet), with the Gilbert Sea (length 170 feet) directly behind her. Nine months later, a fourth vessel, the Thozina (measuring 174 feet) was added to the group landing directly behind the Gilbert Sea, expanding Governor’s to a spectacular reef system. With Goliath grouper, sea turtles, sharks, loads of fish life, reefs, wrecks, shore diving at the Blue Heron Bridge, and of course, blackwater diving opportunities, what more do you need for a fantastic South Florida diving adventure? n

REEFS, WRECKS AND MUCH MORE!

Florida boasts a rich selection of shipwrecks, coral reefs, pelagic marine life and prolific reef fish, all in a range of depths to suit every level of diver, from raw novice to hardened veteran, so whatever you are looking for, this coastline has got you covered.

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Barefoot luxury in the heart of Indonesia

Bunaken National Marine Park I had a fantastic time at Siladen Resort. The resort itself is a quiet and idyllic oasis, the food was outstanding, but it’s the fishes that will have me coming back. The dive crew were some of the friendliest folk I have met. Always smiling, and so happy. I can’t wait to dive there again. Dr. Richard Smith

w w w.s i l a d e n.c o m

The

Socorro – a true ‘bucket list’ destination if ever there was one! This group of four islands is located in the Pacific Ocean, some 370 miles from the west coast of Mexico, and it offers some quite unique underwater experiences, as Don Silcock found out Photography Don Silcock

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El Boiler is a tremendous place to encounter oceanic manta rays, as they use the pinnacle as a cleaning station. The amazing thing about the giant mantas is that they are quite used to divers…

The giant Pacific manta ray can grow to a disc size of up to 23 feet across with a weight of 6,600lb. At the front, it has a pair of cephalic fins, which are forward extensions of the pectoral fins - these can be rolled up in a spiral for swimming or flared out when feeding.

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ften referred to as the ‘Mexican Galapagos’, these islands are so special that in July 2016, they were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Then in November 2017, the government of Mexico created North America’s largest marine protected area. And made the whole area a national park, with total bans on fishing, mining and tourism development. Confusingly though, Socorro is actually just one of the four islands that make up the Archipiélago de Revillagigedo - the correct name for this location. However, most English-speaking people struggle with actually pronouncing ‘Revillagigedo’. So, the pragmatic Mexicans stopped trying to use the formal name with most foreigners and refer to the archipelago as simply ‘Socorro’.

Location, location, location… Semantics out of the way… just why are these islands quite so special? The answer to that question is really quite simple – location! The four islands of San Benedicto, Clarion, Roca Partida and Socorro are actually the peaks of underwater volcanoes which, in turn, are part of a submarine mountain range far below the surface. The overall location is where the north-east Pacific Ocean marine biogeographic region converges with that of the Eastern Pacific. It is also where the California Current meets the Equatorial Current, all of which creates an incredibly complex and highly productive transition zone. Being the only landfall in such rich waters, the four islands have an incredible mix of resident sharks, manta rays and dolphins. Plus, they act as beacons to migratory species such as humpback whales and whaleshark. Little wonder then that the area is renowned for being a ‘big animal paradise’…

PEAK PERFORMANCE

The four islands of San Benedicto, Clarion, Roca Partida and Socorro are actually the peaks of underwater volcanoes.

PREVIOUS PAGE Oceanic manta ray ABOVE Whalesharks are a common sight RIGHT manta barrel rolling BOTTOM Aerial view of the islands

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Archie Smith, an American laborer from San Diego, was abandoned on the island for one month in 1929 before being rescued by a passing fishing boat.

DOLPHIN DREAMS

You will encounter all manner of marine life around the Socorro Islands, from whales to manta rays, whalesharks, tuna and much more, but the pods of bottlenose dolphins are among the most inquisitive.

Getting there

San Benidicto Island

The sheer remoteness of the Revillagigedo Archipelago means that diving Socorro is not something to take lightly… For North American divers, it is not too bad as all the liveaboard dive boats servicing Socorro operate from Cabo San Lucas. Known for its beaches, seasports and nightlife, Cabo (as it is commonly referred to) is a busy place that is very well serviced by all the major US airlines. For the rest of the world some long-haul flights are required, and for us Australians, it is a journey of epic proportions! Getting to Cabo is just the first part of the overall journey though, as it is another 24 hours by boat to get to San Benidicto Island, the nearest of those four islands to Mexico.

Formerly known as Isla de los Innocentes, San Benedicto at some four miles sq, is the third largest of the four islands in the archipelago. Very much volcanic in origin, it has no source of fresh water and is completely uninhabited. San Benedicto is visually striking and has two very prominent features. Bárcena, near the southern tip of the island, is the volcanic crater left from its eruption in 1952. Viewed from sea level, Bárcena is impressive, but viewed from a drone, it is simply awesome! Second are the volcanic arch and nearby pinnacles on the west side of the island, which when viewed up close are truly awe-inspiring…

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LEFT Whitetip reef sharks ABOVE Bottlenose dolphins

FOR ADVANCED DIVERS ONLY

The diving around the Socorro Islands is characterised by strong currents, rough surface conditions and in some cases, depth, which means it is only really suitable for experienced divers confident in exposed conditions.

DON SILCOCK

In more normal times, Scuba Diver’s Senior Travel Editor Don Silcock is based from Bali in Indonesia, but is currently hunkered down in Sydney… His website has extensive location guides, articles and images on some of the best diving locations in the Indo-Pacific region and ‘big animal’ experiences globally. www.indopacificimages.com

ABOVE Roca Partida MIDDLE TOP Silky shark RIGHT San Benedicto Island from the air

San Benidicto Island - El Boiler

San Benidicto Island – silky shark

There are a number of dive sites around San Benedicto, such as Fondeadero and the Canyon. They are good, but none of them comes close to El Boiler, which is located near to the volcanic arch and is an absolutely incredible dive! The site consists of a huge pinnacle that rises up from the seabed at 147ft, coming to within 13ft of the surface. That top area is to be avoided because of surge and swell, but the rest of the site is straightforward, and you basically just choose your depth and then make your way around the pinnacle. El Boiler is a tremendous place to encounter oceanic manta rays, as they use the pinnacle as a cleaning station. The amazing thing about the giant mantas is that they are quite used to divers… And being intelligent and curious creatures, they will often initiate the encounter and come to you! So the best way to dive El Boiler is stay relatively shallow to conserve air, then make your way around the pinnacle, watching out for the mantas. Obviously, there is no guarantee they will appear… But they usually do and when that happens, try to separate yourself a bit from other divers and wait. There is simply no point in trying to chase them – they are just too fast. Better to let them come to you!

While the oceanic manta rays are very much the stars of the show at El Boiler, the dependable co-stars at San Benidicto Island are the resident population of silky sharks (Carcharhinus falciformis). Clearly very used to the liveaboard dive boats that visit the island, the silkies gather in some numbers around the boat looking for scraps. Relatively large animals, with an intense curiosity and bold attitude, silky sharks are considered to be potentially dangerous.

Socorro Island Socorro is by far the largest of the four islands at some 50 miles sq. It is an impressive sight when first seen, particularly so from a drone! It is also the only island that is inhabited, albeit by about 250 Mexican Navy personnel and their families… Their role being to enforce the rules and regulations of the marine protected area and national park. There are three main dive sites around Socorro Island – Punta Tosca, Roca O’Neal and Cabo Pearce. The first two are certainly interesting dives, but Cabo Pearce is very much the main attraction and its stars are ocean manta rays and bottlenose dolphins! Plus, schooling hammerheads are often seen out in the blue. Cabo Pearce is a long ‘finger’ formation that is

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The silky shark is a swift, inquisitive and persistent hunter, feeding mainly on bony fishes and cephalopods.

located on the eastern side of the island and was created by lava flow from when Socorro was an active volcano. Underwater that finger extends right out into the deep surrounding waters. Care is required at Cabo Pearce as strong currents run either from the south to the north, or vice versa, which strengthen as they sweep across the top of the underwater part of the lava finger. Both the oceanic mantas and bottlenose dolphins are used to interacting with divers and will come to you. Which makes for some really great encounters!

Roca Partida Located about 62 miles to the west of Socorro Island, Roca Partida is the visible tip of a huge underwater mountain. It is hard to imagine a more-remote, aweinspiring and exciting dive site! Compared to the three other islands Roca Partida is pretty small. Just 328 feet long and 26 feet wide and the name means ‘Split Rock’, which refers to the two peaks on the rock – one 82 feet high and the other 111 feet. Its sheer and complete isolation means that Roca Partida has its own ecosystem and resident population of marine creatures. Plus, it naturally attracts migratory animals and you just never know what may appear around the corner!

Its sheer and complete isolation means that Roca Partida has its own ecosystem and resident population of marine creatures. Plus, it naturally attracts migratory animals

Socorro is the largest of the four islands and was discovered by the Spanish explorer Hernando de Grijalva in 1533. It has been home to a Mexican Naval Station since 1957.

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ABOVE Diver tickling oceanic manta ray with exhaust bubbles

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TO START YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE!

Swept as it is by strong easterly currents, Roca Partida is best dived by entering the water around the middle of the rock on the east side, which is the ‘split point’ for the current and where the water velocity is minimal. Then it’s a choice left or right to the corners of the rock, where the current is strongest and the action is pumping! Huge schools of fish pulse in the current, sharks are a constant presence and the chance for random pelagic encounters make the corners of Roca Partida an incredible underwater experience! Finally… a really interesting feature of Roca Partida are its snoozing whitetip sharks. Located on the eastern side of the rock are several recesses that act as ‘shark platforms’. These are where the resident whitetip sharks, which hunt at night, gather during the day to rest. Seemingly safe in numbers, the recesses are often crammed to overflowing with whitetips…

Diving Socorro – in summary The four islands of the Archipiélago de Revillagigedo are truly very special. While only three of the four are dived regularly – Clarion Island is another 180 miles to the south-west of Roca Partida and very few boats go there - diving Socorro, San Benidicto and Roca Partida is an experience that will stay with you for many years. The combination of their remote location, exceptional biodiversity, incredible encounters and exciting diving are hard to match – anywhere… n

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Isla Socorro Mexico

GETTING THERE Most liveaboards leave from Port of Cabo San Lucas, and you fly into the San Jose del Cabo Airport, which is only 45 minutes away. WHEN TO GO The prime time to visit Socorro is winter (November to May) Water temps range from 82 degrees F in November to 69 degrees F in February. CURRENCY Cash (US dollars or pesos) are accepted on board most liveaboards, as are most major credit cards. ENTRY REQUIREMENTS As you are travelling into Mexico, you will require a valid passport with at least six months left to expiry.

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Raja Ampat is renowned for its epic beauty, pristine nature, endless stretches of empty beaches and lots of space, but this is probably due to the fact that while there are some 1,500 islands in the archipelago, there are only 50,000 inhabitants!

Jean-Pierre Nathrass showcases seven of the top dive sites in Raja Ampat, and presents a list of creatures large and small you should expect to encounter Photography Jean-Pierre Nathrass

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There are more than ten languages spoken around the islands, and this doesn’t even include the multitude of dialects used from island to island. Many of the languages are spoken by a very small number of people, and are considered threatened languages.

When dived in stronger currents, the reef is home to thousands of schooling fish, from fusilier, snapper and barracuda that can be seen hovering above the soft coral growth PREVIOUS PAGE Aerial view of Raja Ampat ABOVE Diver on a pristine coral reef TOP RIGHT Shoal of sweetlips MIDDLE RIGHT Snorkeling under a jetty RIGHT Vibrant reef BOTTOM RIGHT Divers enjoy a rapid drift dive

hile the Last Paradise is an incredible tropical destination, with many white beaches lined with coconut trees and blue waters, it is underwater where Raja Ampat really comes to life. Known as the mostdiverse marine ecosystem in the world, these warm tropical waters offer the best diving experience for divers of all levels. The waters of the Dampier Straits that separate the islands of Waigeo and Bantana are where you will find over 100 of the world’s best dive sites. From gentle slope dives, incredible walls, and unique jetty dives, Raja Ampat has it all. These colorful dive sites are home to at least 75 percent of the world’s known coral species, where over 1,000 species of fish and 700 species of molluscs make their home in these nutrientrich waters and dense coral formations. From the incredibly rare and small pygmy seahorse that can be spotted by the eager eyed and patient to the majestic oceanic manta rays that dance and glide over the shallow reefs in the summer months, divers who visit are treated to a diving experience that is unrivalled.

Top dive sites Raja Ampat is known for its incredibly diverse marine life and the large number of dive sites the area has to offer. While every dive site has unique attractions and worth the visit, we have compiled a list of our favourites. Melissa’s Garden - Near the Fam Islands in the West of Raja Ampat, three inconspicuous islands give no indication that below is one of the most-biodiverse dive sites in the world. Melissa’s Garden is a shallow large pinnacle with gentle slopes that stretch between the above islands. The fields of coral that grow on the reef are hugely impressive. A sea of colors as far as the eye can see. With groups of the same color growing together it is easy to think that these corals were planted. Among the colorful hard coral growth thousands of fish swim. Divers often comment that when diving Melissa’s Garden there is too much to see and take in. This site is all that makes Raja Ampat the best diving destination in the world. Sauwandarek Jetty - This is an utterly unique dive site. From the large schools of fish that are found under the jetty to the massive turtles that make their homes

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in the sloping reef, Sauwandarek Jetty is an easy dive site to navigate and boasts some of the mostimpressive coral growth and marine life that makes your jaw drop. This dive site is part of a coral regrowth programme and many wire structures, including an airplane can be seen near the jetty sporting new corals. This is the perfect dive site for divers and snorkelers to experience masses of fish on the colorful shallow reefs. Mike’s Point - A single uninhabited island marks this incredible dive site, that is found in the centre of the Dampier Strait. This pinnacle has a unique topography found on a dive site. One side of this pinnacle is home to a wall that stretches into the depths and is lined with overhangs, small caverns, and large boulders where large groups of grouper and sweetlips can be found. On the other side the reef gently slopes where fields of colorful coral are home to smaller schooling fish and macro marine life. This is a dive site that cannot be described in words but rather needs to be experienced. Neu Reef - A relatively undived reef, Neu Reef lies in a massive reef system with many different dive sites. What sets Neu Reef apart from the rest is the incredible diversity that can be found on this slope dive. When dived in stronger currents, the reef is home to thousands of schooling fish, from fusilier, snapper and barracuda that can be seen hovering above the soft coral growth. While on the slack tides, the reef is perfect to hunt for countless macro creatures, from the tiny pygmy seahorse to the blue ring octopus. One totally unique sighting that divers can look forward to are the garden eels that are found int the sandy patches between the slopes of Neu Reef. Mayhem - Do not let the name fool you, the dive itself is an easy pinnacle dive, the mayhem is in the masses of marine life that converge on this dive site. Mayhem is home to masses of reef sharks and the occasional manta sighting. Mayhem is the perfect dive site to just. Relax and look at all the life around you.

WORLD-CLASS DIVING

Incredibly, Raja Ampat has only been known to foreigners for 31 years - Dutchman Max Ammer started to spread the word in 1990, and invited fishery expert Gerry Allen to survey the area, and the rest is history. WWW.SCUBADIVERDESTINATIONS.COM

TURTLE HEAVEN

You can encounter up to four of the seven species of sea turtle in the waters off Raja Ampat.

Citrus Ridge - Tucked away in the Yangelo area, Citrus Ridge is found in the channel that runs through the islands of the region. The stronger currents that flow through this cut brings masses of fish that group together between the citrus-colored soft coral growth that is found on the pinnacles that gives the site its name. As you make your way between these pinnacles you can expect to see barracuda, wobbegong sharks and many reef sharks. End of the dive in the shallows in the clear waters of the mangrove forests that line the coastline of this area. Cape Kri - This might be one of the most-famous dive sites in Raja Ampat. This slope dive is found by the island of Kri and the reef stretches for thousands of feet. The deep waters off the slope and the location of the island are the perfect combination for large game fish sightings. The stronger currents that flow around this dive site attracts large numbers of tuna, giant trevally, and reef sharks. For those who prefer pelagic life. This is the dive for you.

As you make your way between these pinnacles you can expect to see barracuda, wobbegong sharks and many reef sharks

Top sightings The most-biodiverse marine ecosystem in the world. On your visit to Raja Ampat keep an eye out for some of the most unique and rare creatures in the world. Manta ray - Mantas can be seen in numerous diving destinations, but Raja Ampat is the only place in the world were the oceanic and reef mantas can be seen interacting on the same reefs. These mantas can be found during the summer months on popular dive sites like Blue Magic and Manta Sandy. Pygmy seahorse - Raja Ampat is home to hundreds of macro marine creatures. One of the rarest is the pygmy seahorse. These tiny seahorses come in many colors and sizes, with most not being much larger than the size of your pinkie nail. These seahorses will spend their entire lives on the same patch of coral but are still incredibly elusive.

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Meridian Adventure Dive

Local myth tells of a woman who found seven dragon eggs in the jungle. She took the eggs home, and in the morning, four young kings had appeared, along with a princess, a ghost and a stone. The four kings is what gave Raja Ampat its name.

Sea turtles - of the seven species of sea turtles, four of which can be found in Raja Ampat. Green, hawksbill, leatherback and olive ridleys all call the region their home. These turtles can be found on many dive sites in the area and often more than one will be seen on the same dive. Some are also known to make nests on certain dive sites and have grown to impressive sizes. Epaulette shark - The epaulette shark also known as the walking shark is part of the carpet shark family and a unique sight to see. These small sharks are found on shallow reefs in the area where the hide from predators while feeding on smaller fish and molluscs in the tidal pool. Once the water level drops, these sharks are found walking on land. These unique sharks can survive on land for a few hours on end and make use of their long tails and pectoral fins to move around. Blue-ringed octopus - This tiny and highly toxic octopus is found in the shallow reefs of Raja Ampat. This octopus has distinct vivid blue rings that decorate their bodies, but do not be fooled by their impressive looks. These tiny creatures are highly toxic, and their venom can kill 26 human adults in minutes. While this octopus is incredible to observe to keep your distance when you spot one. Dugong - While not a common sighting, Raja Ampat is home to a unique marine mammal. The dugong can be found in the shallow seagrass areas

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Situated in Raja Ampat, Indonesia, Meridian Adventure Dive is a PADI five-star Resort and winner of the PADI Green Star award. Scuba divers enjoy the professional service that has become synonymous with both the PADI and Meridian Adventure names. The sweeping spine of Indonesia’s archipelago is an underwater treasure trove, and the Raja Ampat Islands are often overlooked. Raja Ampat is one of Indonesia’s most captivating diving grounds and is truly a paradise on earth. raja.meridianadventuredive.com

found in many bays in Raja Ampat. The mammals are related to the more common and well-known manatees. The dugong has been given the nickname of mermaids by the local community. These incredibly shy animals can grow up to two metres and 600lb in size, but are gentle when encountered.

The Papuan people of Raja Ampat

TOP LEFT Blueringed octopus TOP MIDDLE Sea turtle LEFT Manta ray ABOVE Pygmy seahorse

When you mention Raja Ampat, the first thought that crosses your mind is of the incredible marine life and diving. What most fail to remember, is that the area is also home to the indigenous tribes and people of West Papua, an area that is believed to have been populated over 30,000 years ago by the Melanesians. This ethnic group can be traced back in both the populations of West Papua and that of Papua New Guinea.

ABOVE The local inhabitants are welcoming and friendly

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While the modern-day tribes of Papua New Guinea are much more closely related to their Melanesian ancestors, the tribes of the Raja Ampat region have, over the years, been exposed to, and even integrated with, many other tribes from all over Indonesia and the surrounding areas, including Biak and Maluku. Over the years this has greatly influenced the evolution of this unique culture and people, who are commonly referred to as the Papuan people. Most of the Papuan people come from families of migrating fishermen, with small tribes forming across the islands in the region. While all come from the same general ancestry, each individual tribe has developed their individual dialects, customs and habits, over time. The Papuan people of Raja Ampat are known for their friendly and welcoming nature and will often greet visitors to the area with big smiles and generous natures. The children in the area will swarm around newcomers to speak, play, and make an appearance in photos. These families are of the ocean and their entire lives revolve around it. Their culture is one of family and caring, with the bonds running deep. It is common for families to live their entire lives in one village and house from one generation to the next, with the young looking the elderly. While in modern times, the children are more likely to attend modern schools they are still taught the traditional ways. From fishing to forestry, the Papuan people truly are at home in their environment.

Conclusion With the incredible marine diversity, dive sites that cater to all levels of divers, and extremely welcoming and friendly locals, Raja Ampat must be a visit destination for all those who want to be truly surrounded by the underwater world. n

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Raja Ampat Indonesia

GETTING THERE You need to fly into Sorong in West Papua, Indonesia, and you can get flights to here from Manado, Jakarta, Bali, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. WHEN TO GO October to April is the optimum time to visit Raja Ampat, but you can dive at any time of the year. CURRENCY The currency is Indonesian Rupiah (IDR), though in many resorts, US dollars are also accepted, as are most credit cards. ENTRY REQUIREMENTS A passport with at least six months left to expiry is required. A 30-day visa on arrival is available at all Indonesian points of entry. Check current COVID rules. ELECTRICITY Electricity is 220-240V, using a Euro-style two-pin plug, so you will need an adaptor to use US devices.

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The northern Red Sea offers asmorgasbord of reefs, walls and wrecks, all smothered in colorful coral growth, as Michele Westmorland found out during her inaugural trip to the area Photography Michele Westmorland

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The Thistlegorm is one of the mostfamous shipwrecks in the world, and it is all down to its military cargo airplane parts, rubber boots, trucks, motorcycles, armoured vehicles, rifles, shells of all sizes, not to mention two steam locomotives and water carriers.

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The Red Sea is the world’s northernmost tropical sea. It is home to more than 1,200 species of fish, including 44 species of sharks.

At first, the silt-covered interior did not appear too intriguing until a huge school of coppery-colored glassy sweeper emerged from a protected space

here Africa and Asia meet, the Red Sea has been luring European divers to its waters for years. The golden desert contrasts against the bright turquoise waters that contain some of the most-famous dive sites on earth. The view underwater is just as striking since the coral reefs here are healthy and teeming with fish. As an American who has been diving for 30 years, this was my first time dipping my toes in the water here. I have no idea why it took me so long. We travelled from the marina in Hurghada aboard the new Red Sea Aggressor II, led by one of the most-knowledgeable Divemasters in Egypt - Adel M El Beialy. The initial dive to check out our equipment took place at Sha’ab El Erg. I was focused on my cameras as the visibility was low and I wanted to be sure my housing did not leak. I should have paid more attention because playful dolphins are frequently seen at this site. Although I could hear the squeaks and calls, I missed most of the action! Quickly after my arrival, I became fascinated with the history of the many wrecks. Everything from small vessels to major ships reveal so many stories, it would be impossible to explore all of them in just one trip.

Red Sea Aggressor II

PASS THE SALT...

The Red Sea is one of the saltiest bodies of water in the world, owing to high evaporation and low precipitation, the fact that no significant rivers or streams drain into the sea, and because its southern connection to the Gulf of Aden in the Indian Ocean is extremely narrow.

QUEEN OF THE NILE Some of the guests, including myself, stayed in Egypt not for diving, but for learning more about the ancient history and temples along the River Nile. If you are going to go such a long distance, it is worth it to take the time. The first of the Aggressor River Cruises fleet, the Nile Queen is a charming, 170-feet sailing vessel called a Dahabiya, and is the most beautiful of yachts not only in the décor, but the crew. Captain Haggag was dressed in his traditional gallebaya. His bright eyes and constant smile were as inviting as the Queen herself. From Luxor to Aswan, guests get to not only see the amazing

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Length: 150 feet | Beam: 29 feet | Passengers: 22 Cabins: Deluxe and master staterooms The Red Sea Aggressor II is a standout in comfort and service. She supports 22 passengers in a selection of deluxe and master staterooms. If you really desire luxury, then the Master Suite is for you. RSA II is 150 feet in length and almost 29 feet across the beam. She sports not only a lovely dining salon but a lounge area with easy access to the dive deck. On the upper deck is yet another salon which accommodates guests who want to have a little quiet reading time and a cocktail. The flying bridge is where the hot tub is always ready to go, once the major crossings are complete, to relax and enjoy the desert sky. www.aggressor.com

historic sites, but also experience life on the Nile for the various Egyptian communities. Fields of grains next to orchards of mangoes, pomegranates and pears are where the locals gather the ingredients for their flavorful meals. Cattle and goats are tethered for grazing, while it is common to see donkeys as the mode of transportation. Our guide, Emile, is one of the most knowledgeable and passionate people I have met, and the information he presented was not only educational but inspirational. The experience on the Nile Queen made it one of the most-rewarding trips I have been on. www.aggressor.com/aggressor-river-cruise

TOP LEFT Turtle on a coral reef TOP RIGHT The Red Sea Aggrressoor II at anchor ABOVE On a land excursion from the Nile Queen LEFT Spacious cabins on the Red Sea Aggressor II FAR LEFT The prop on the Dunraven

FISH, FISH AND MORE FISH

The Red Sea is a rich and diverse ecosystem, with more than 1,200 species of fish, including more than 100 that are endemic to the area.

The Egyptian Red Sea is home to a multitude of shipwrecks, which ended up on the bottom either due to a maritime accident or a wartime incident. These include the aforementioned Thistlegorm, the Giannis D, the Carnatic and the Chriousla K/Marcus.

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The Egyptian Red Sea is warm enough to visit throughout the year, with an average water temperature of 66 degrees F, even in December and January. This goes up to an average 84 degrees F in the summer months, making the sea’s shallow parts as warmas bath water.

Diving here gives you not only a sense of history and exploration, but also allows one to experience a plethora of marine life Later that day, we began investigating the rusty hulls of metal that tell the tale of a major shipping lane, including all the dangers open water and shallow reefs cause to the large and the small. In the Sha’ab Mahmoud area, we checked out a tiny dive boat wreck. It was a promising start, but the Dunraven is what really got me energised about shipwrecks. The Dunraven was a merchant ship loaded with cotton and wood traveling from England to India. Both a sailboat and steamship, she hit a reef in 1876 due to poor navigation, caught fire and sunk. The wreckage was only discovered in 1977 by a geologist and became the subject of a documentary film produced by BBC. The Dunraven is resting with her hull upwards to the surface along a reef wall with the bow in 50ft of water and the stern in 97ft. At the stern, the propeller is covered with red encrusting sponges and dripping with soft coral. It makes the perfect frame for photographing divers. Swimming into the Dunraven at mid-ships led me to

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another wonderful discovery. At first, the silt-covered interior did not appear too intriguing until a huge school of coppery-colored glassy sweeper emerged from a protected space. Fish continued to pop out as I explored the rest of the wreck, adding beautiful splashes of color against the stark metal. With the wind conditions perfect for a crossing, the Red Sea Aggressor II decided it was time for a taste of the reefs and we headed to the Straits of Tiran. Located east of Sharm El-Sheikh, Tiran Island is a prime site to view fish-feeding activities. Jackson’s Reef seemed to be the gourmet spot for turtles, angelfish and moray eels. I am glad I peered out into the blue because the school of bannerfish cruising the reef edge was enormous. Turning back to the reef, something caught my eye again. Cabbage coral clusters dressed in a glorious yellow-green stood out from the rest of the reef while providing a home to schools of brilliant orange anthias hiding from predators. One of the predators that leave them

TOP LEFT Soldierfish shelter under a hard coral TOP RIGHT Anemonefish BOTTOM LEFT The Red Sea is home to lots of shipwrecks

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In terms of body mass, the giant moray is the largest moray eel in the world.

alone are sharks. Divers who are familiar with the Red Sea try to schedule their trips to co-ordinate with when specific species of sharks are visiting. Cooler water temperatures in the winter may bring a thresher or oceanic whitetip, while whalesharks are more common when there is plenty of plankton to feed on during the hotter time of year. Our next reef destination was in Ras Mohammed National Park. It is easy to understand why there is a plethora of liveaboard vessels in the area. The sanctuary boasts schools of jacks and bannerfish next to the backdrop of colorful reef walls. I was more than happy to follow the guidelines put forth by the park rangers, who watch the divers, and to pay the park fees for just this kind of environmentally sound preservation strategy. Signature wrecks in the Red Sea are well known. However, I don’t think there is a person in the world that can dive them all with a full understanding of each room, each galley, each nook and cranny – unless you are our Divemaster Adel. We had the good fortune of making three dives on SS Thistlegorm, by far the most famous of them all. She was sunk in World War Two in 1941 by German bombers on her mission to carry supplies to the Allied forces. Discovered by Jacques Cousteau in the early 1950s, years went by before this 420-feet-long ship reclaimed its history and celebrity. Three dives provide barely a glimpse of what the Thistlegorm’s story can divulge. For my first visit to this famous wreck, I stayed on the exterior with depths ranging from 49ft at the bow to 100ft at the stern. It gave me a clear picture of the ship layout and ideas for where I wanted to infiltrate

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HOW THE RED SEA GOT ITS NAME...

A popular hypotheses about the origins of the Red Sea’s name is that it contains a cyanobacteria called Trichodesmium erythraeum, which turns the normally blue-green water a reddish-brown. It is a translation of its ancient Greek name, Erythra Thalassa.

the interior. The next dives were spent exploring the storage holds that contain trucks, Bren gun carriers, motorcycles, Lee Enfield rifles and ammunition. The ships Giannis D, Carnatic and Chrisoula K/ Marcus are located in the middle of a major shipping lane that is still quite active today. Abu Nuhas, the reef and shallow island that caused these vessels to sink, is also known as ‘The Reef of Seven Deaths’. When you see the area, it is not surprising that it is one of the most-perilous places for ships even with the latest navigation systems. Diving here gives you not only a sense of history and exploration, but also allows one to experience a plethora of marine life. Surprisingly, my favorite wreck is also one of the smallest. The Barge is located in the Gubal Islands and is quite protected from stormy seas. It’s difficult to understand why this vessel sunk in a calm location, but it is estimated that she went down some time in 1967. The Barge rests in shallow water, so there is plenty of time to go on a treasure hunt. From the smallest nudibranchs to the biggest moray eels I’ve ever seen, this is a site to do over and over again day or night. n TOP LEFT Giant moray LEFT Massive cabbage coral BOTTOM LEFT Mast on the Giannis D ABOVE Happy divers on the dive deck

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TOP DIVE SITES Roatan, Utila and Guanaja make up the Bay Islands of Honduras, some 40 miles north of the Honduran mainland.

Mary’s Place

One of the mostfamous dive sites off the south side of Roatan, Mary’s Place has a lush reef with crevasses and tunnels running through it that provide great photo opportunities. The largest extends down 100ft and was formed by volcanic activity. The shallows can be explored by snorkellers, while divers can head down to 130ft, where they will find colonies of black coral.

El Aguila

El Aguila is a shipwreck lying in 110ft off the north shore of Roatan. Some 230 feet long and broken into three pieces (courtesy of 1998’s Hurricane Mitch), it is always home to 15-20 large grouper and a big blue parrotfish, as well as a monster green moray that is not shy about leaving his home to see what you are doing in ‘his manor’.

The Odyssey

The Odyssey is Roatan’s largest shipwreck, as well as being one of the bigger wrecks in the entire Caribbean. This freighter, which was purpose-

sunk for divers in 2002, is some 300 feet long and 50 feet wide, and with its intact superstructure, offers plenty of penetration opportunities for those suitably trained. It lies in 110ft of water.

Coco’s Sea Mount

Coco’s beauty is in the mix of coral and good visibility, that divers always enjoy. The ocean floor rises from hundreds of feet to only 40ft from the surface. These sea mounts are far from Utila and Roatan, and therefore are rarely visited by dayboat divers.

ABOVE The Roatan Aggressor RIGHT Pristine reef BOTTOM RIGHT In the spacious salon

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Hints and advice Many major airlines fly direct non-stop from the USA to Roatan from multiple gateways on Saturday – American Airlines, Delta and United. There are many direct flights from the US, and several connecting flights through the US gateway cities of Miami, Atlanta, Houston and Dallas. The Roatan Aggressor departs from Romeo’s Restaurant in French Harbour, Roatan, and seven-night charters run from Saturday to Saturday. You can clock up 27 dives on seven-night charters (including night dives), and all dives are conducted from the liveaboard.

Roatan Aggressor Length: 120 feet | Beam: 21 feet | Passengers: 18 | Staterooms: 9 The Roatan Aggressor is a spacious power yacht that was built for comfort, safety and stability. Diesel-powered, she can cruise at 10 knots and has 110-volt power onboard. Accommodations include one master stateroom with a queen bed, and eight deluxe staterooms (seven having a double and single berth, and one having two twin beds). All staterooms have climate controls, private bathrooms and showers. The Roatan Aggressor features a roomy, air-conditioned salon and dining area, sundeck complete with a hot tub, lounge and deck chairs, shaded cocktail deck, grill, and a computer for photo-editing for guests. www.aggressor.com

The charter schedule takes in some of the best dive sites around Roatan itself, and also Utila and Cayos Cochinos, and with a dive tender in tow, you can head off on shore excursions when the opportunity presents itself. Roatan is ideally situated along the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System, the second-longest barrier reef in the world, and this extensive reef attracts a wide variety of marine animals and feeds the Bay Islands with healthy and diverse populations of fish and other creatures. The waters around the Bay Islands are renowned for their lush coral growth and healthy populations of fish, and while the main attraction for many will be the innumerable macro critters to hunt out on the reefs, there can also be some larger animals vying for your attention, including the mighty whaleshark.

Hawksbill Bank

The Roatan Aggressor is one of a few that visit this sea mount, which begins at 40ft and slopes down to 80ft. Bluebell tunicates are in abundance, and the rare fingerprints can also be found. A resident hawksbill turtle gives the site its name. n

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| Walt Stearns reviews the DIVE RITE 02PTIMA CM REBREATHER DIVE RITE O2PTIMA CM REBREATHER SRP: USD $6,300 Walt Stearns: ‘Incredibly versatile, self-contained, and travel ready’. That’s how Dive Rite describes their O2ptima CM rebreather. It is an electronic, fully-closed system, and in case you are wondering, CM stands for chest mount. Compact and tipping the scales at just 14.4lb - not including scrubber material or oxygen cylinder - the O2ptima CM is a truly unique design. While I am no stranger to closed circuit diving, having dived various systems for the better part of 18 years, I have never before encountered a fully closed chest-mounted design like this. And so, I was eager for the chance to evaluate O2ptima CM when Lamar and Jared Hires offered me the opportunity to try the unit in North-central Florida’s spring country. On initial examination, several features sparked my interest. The first was the breathing loop, which is reported to be the shortest of any rebreather on the market. The standard configuration includes a solidly built Dive Surface Valve (DSV) joined to the unit’s counter lung by two 30cm loop hoses. These hoses have threaded loop connections for easy removal and cleaning. Unlike military design chest-mount oxygen rebreathers like the Draeger Lar V, the Dive Rite O2ptima CM doesn’t have a large single counter lung, instead utilizes two separate three-litre lungs. The counter lung covers are made from Rhinotek, which is highly abrasion-resistant material that is still relatively flexible. The twin counter lungs actual working volume is closer to 5.5 litres (2.25 litres per counter lung) due to the counter lung covers, but when you add in the gas present in the CM’s scrubber, the total loop volume is brought back to six litres. Something to consider if you are an individual with a large tidal lung volume. What is a bit of a surprise given the CM’s compact design is that it shares the same horizontal cylindrical housing for its scrubber and Shearwater DiveCAN electronics system used in Dive Rite’s larger back-mount O2ptima CCR models. Mounted horizontally below the counter lungs, the CM’s scrubber is designed to accept the same Micropore ExtendAir SR-081C cartridges as its big brother. You can also utilize a self-pack scrubber that holds 2.2kg of 812 mesh granular CO2 absorbent. The CM’s electronic oxygen solenoid and four AI R22 oxygen

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www.diverite.com sensors are governed by one of two devices. One configuration utilizes a Shearwater Petrel 2 controller paired with a basic triple LED HUD. The second configuration includes a Shearwater NERD 2 model controller mounted securely atop the CM’s DSV, paired with same HUD system. Because I am a big NERD 2 fan (having one on my personal CCR), I feel that this option is the way to go, as it makes the CM less cluttered by eliminating that cable running down your wrist to the Petrel controller. In addition to the Shearwater controller, the CM is fitted with an Oxygen Manual Add Valve (MAV) located on the right side of the counter lung, and an Automatic Diluent Valve on the left side. I found both of these to be conveniently located for easy activation with a press of forefinger or thumb. The CM featured on Dive Rite’s website is pictured with a 13 cubic-foot aluminum oxygen cylinder which is attached below the scrubber with two 1.5-inch cam straps. This configuration allows for a wide range of side or back-mount diluent tank configurations. The CM is also the most travel-friendly fully closed-circuit rebreather on the market, as it has the uniquely ingenious advantage of being a true add-on rebreather. By that I mean you don’t necessarily have to change out your current open-circuit equipment to enter the world of silent diving.

| Walt Stearns reviews the DIVE RITE 02PTIMA CM REBREATHER DIVE RITE O2PTIMA CM REBREATHER SRP: USD $6,300

All that is required of your existing harness/BCD (be it single tank, doubles, or side mount), is that the shoulder straps can accommodate a single D-ring atop each shoulder, with a second set on each side of the waist strap. From there, CM’s four bolt-snaps are able to securely fasten it to your harness with the quick disconnect for the CM’s dil making the fifth and final attachment. My test rig utilized a standard Dive Rite Transpac XT harness with a EXP 25lb Travel Wing and 120 cubic-foot back-mount tank. Jared’s unit was attached to his Nomad LS side mount harness, while Lamar slung his CM on a Transpac XT harness with a larger 45lb Rec Wing and a set of small doubles. Having the ability to easily clip or unclip the CM either in or out of the water opens a diver’s range of possibilities. For example, in a cave-diving scenario, where a diver needs to pass through a tight restriction, he could undo the CM’s two waist clips and swing the rebreather out front to move through a given opening without going off the loop. In a recreational line where a diver is on a trip in the Florida Keys, you could use the CM for the first dive on a deep wreck such as the Spiegel Grove or the

Duane, then leave it in the boat while using the same tank they used on the first dive for the second dive on a shallow reef.

Post dive thoughts and impressions In a fully closed-circuit rebreather, the counter lungs are positioned one of three ways – on the back, over the shoulder, or on the chest. The positioning of the lungs has a direct effect on user comfort and the work of breathing (WOB) – meaning how much effort is involved when breathing through the loop while in a prone position. A rebreather with back-mounted counter lungs is highly desirable to some as it frees up the diver’s chest. With this configuration, the counter lungs are above the diver’s own lungs when in a prone position, requiring more effort during the inhalation side of a breath cycle than during the exhalation side. With a chest mount-system, the reverse is generally true, as the diver can expect some resistance during exhalation. This occurs because the counter lung is below the diver’s body, and the gas in the lungs wants to rise. This can create enough

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| Walt Stearns reviews the DIVE RITE 02PTIMA CM REBREATHER DIVE RITE O2PTIMA CM REBREATHER SRP: USD $6,300 back pressure to cause what most CCR divers call ‘chipmunk cheeks’. Even properly positioned over the shoulder counter lungs, which some attest as being the best of both worlds, can generate the same effect. Given its chest-mounted counter lungs, the work of breathing on the CM was not what I expected. The dual counter lung design, which I should mention feature dual water traps, actually provided a very comfortable WOB with just a touch of back pressure when resting in a prone position. Even when rolling all the way over to an inverted position CM’s breathing comfort was still good. One niggling issue I have with all electronic CCRs is that when you are at depths shallower than 9m, the oxygen solenoid generally fires more often to retaining a high constant volume in the loop. As a result, the counter lungs may already be filled before you try to exhale, requiring you to vent off that excess gas through the nose or out the corner of your mouth. One work around to this phenomenon is to place the controller’s set point around .5 or .6, shut off the dil, dump everything from the counter lung and replace it with pure oxygen, which will cause the solenoid to take a break. This was something I forgot to do during our trial dive, as I was focused on photographing Lamar and Jared demonstrating their CMs in the shallower depths of Blue Grotto’s spring basin. On a final note, although the CM is compatible with a number of oxygen cylinder sizes all the way up something as hefty as a HP steel 32, but I would say not. I am what would be described as average height and build (5’ 9” at 175lb) and not at all too happy with the position of the AL 13. Despite it being the recommended cylinder size for streamlining, it added enough length to the unit’s overall profile to make it annoying when trying to take my fins on and off, or simply climbing a set of stairs or ladder to exit the water. Dive Rite recommends that people with a shorter frame might want to reposition that cylinder (or one larger) off board, perhaps under their right arm in sidemount fashion. If it was my personal system, that would be exactly what I would do, thus reducing its overall profile underneath. Because the CM is not dependent on one particular size cylinder for oxygen or diluent, and is void of a hard frame or backplate, it can become a really small carry-on for airline travel. Place a Micropore ExtendAir SR-081C cartridges in the scrubber, with two in the check bags and you’ll have 12 plus hours of diving. Alternately, you could include the self-pack scrubber for whatever granular absorbent is provided at your destination, and configure your diluent based on preference and tank availability. Ah, the possibilities. n

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