Destinations - A guide to the Red Sea and Oman

PRESENTS A GUIDE TO THE RED SEA AND OMAN

REEFS, WALLS &

WRECKS

FROM REC

TO TECH DIVE SITES TO SUIT ALL LEVELS

DIVE HOTSPOTS THAT YOU MUST VISIT

SUDAN'S

UMBRIA IS THIS THE WORLD'S GREATEST SHIPWRECK?

AQABA U EGYPT U EILAT U OMAN U SUDAN

A g g r e ss o r Fl e e t ÂŽ Wo r l d w i d e D i v i n g a n d Tr av e l A d v e n t u r e s

The northern Red Sea is the resting ground for some of the most historic wrecks like the Thistlegorm, Rosalie Moller, and Abu Nuhas. The Straits of Tiran are world famous for their extraordinary diversity of hard corals and breath-taking soft corals.

Northern Route: Red Sea Aggressor II

$3,799

for

*

Two, Seven-Night Charters

Take advantage of this Back-to-Back $3,799 p.p. special now!

Red Sea Aggressor II Itinerary Northern Red Sea, Ras Mohamed and Straits of Tiran Saturday to Saturday, New Marina Hurghada Itineraries may vary due to weather conditions and yacht location.

Brothers/Daedalus/Elphinstone Itinerary Southern/St. Johns & Daedalus Itinerary Port Ghalib, Saturday-to-Saturday

Itineraries may vary due to weather conditions and yacht location.

Red Sea Aggressor guests can enjoy exhilarating, high-energy pelagic action in the South! Whale Sharks, Marlin, Great Hammerheads, Mantas, Dolphin, Blue-finned Tuna,and Thrasher Sharks are often seen at The Brothers, Daedalus and St. John’s Reef.

Southern Route: Red Sea Aggressor

Price Includes 14 Days of LiveAboard Diving on Back-to-Back Red Sea Adventures

For a limited time, divers can explore the northern and southern Red Sea in Aggressor Fleet® style for only $3,799 p.p.! Back-to-Back charters are required for this special offer.

The Red Sea Aggressor II’s northern, seven-night charters depart from the Hurghada New Marina.

Seven-night Red Sea Aggressor southern adventures depart from the Port Ghalib yacht marina. *Some restrictions may apply

Starting July 28, 2018

Red Sea Aggressor II

Red Sea Aggressor

+1-706-993-2531 · redsea@aggressor.com · www.aggressor.com

An experience without equal “The diving and snorkelling at Wakatobi is outstanding, that’s well known. But also important is the excellent customer service of every staff member. Wakatobi can teach customer service to any industry or organization. You feel at home the first day, and it just gets better every day after that.” ~Steve and Cindy Moore

www.wakatobi.com

CONTENT IN-BRIEF 7

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7

25

AQABA

The Kingdom of Jordan is full of adventure, both on land and underwater, and we showcase the highlights topside - including Petra and Wadi Rum - and underwater, in the crystal-clear depths off Aqaba, where receational and technical delights await.

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35 45 51

The Sultanate of Oman is one of the lesser-known dive destinations in the region, but it offers some superb diving, particularly off the Daymaniyat Islands and the Musandam Peninsula.

EGYPT

The Egyptian Red Sea waters are rightly lauded in the diving world, being the final resting place of wrecks such as the Thistlegorm and Rosalie Moller, as well as home to natural wonders like Shark and Yolanda Reef and the Brother Islands.

OMAN

51

35

ISRAEL

The town of Eilat was the birthplace of package diving holidays in the Red Sea, and it is still a hotspot for divers wanting access to colourful reefs, shallow shipwrecks and a plethora of marine life.

SUDAN

Sudan is the hidden gem of Red Sea diving, and is home to one of the world's best shipwrecks, the Umbria, as well as awesome wall dives and the remants of Cousteau's Precontinent II underwater living experiment.

FROM THE EDITOR The Red Sea and Oman register as two of my most-popular diving destinations in almost 20 years of dive journalism, thanks to their blend of vibrant reefs, colourful marine life - in many cases endemic to the area - stunning walls, exciting drifts and world-class shipwrecks, namely Sudan's Umbria, Egypt's Thistlegorm, Rosalie Moller, Giannis D and Carnatic, Aqaba's Cedar Pride, Taiyong and Al Sharouk, and Oman's Al Munassir.

The fact that the destinations covered in this guide lie within a five- to six-hour flight of the UK only adds to the allure of the region, which at certain times of the year can rival any far-flung tropical

location - Ras Mohammed Marine Park at Shark and Yolanda Reef in July is a prime example, when masses of shoaling fish turn the sheer drop-off into fish soup. Sudan's Angarosh reef can deliver multiple species of shark on one eye-opening dive.

Aqaba's Al Sharouk tech dive brings you up the reef to a tracked military tank sunk in the shallows where you can complete your decompression.

Within this guide you will find information about some of the top dive sites, as well as details of the topside attractions in each country.

MARK EVANS EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

PUBLISHERS | Rork Media Limited | Tel: 0800 069 8140 | 71-75 Shelton Street, Covent Garden, London, England, WC2H 9JQ Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the views of the publishers. Copyright for material published remains with Rork Media Limited. Use of material from Scuba Diver is strictly prohibited unless permission is given. All advertisements of which the creative content is in whole or in part the work of Rork Media Limited remain the copyright of Rork Media Limited.

Aqaba PRESENTS A GUIDE TO

NATURAL

WONDER

CEDAR PRIDE THE PRIDE OF THE RED SEA

THE SCENIC SPLENDOUR OF WADI RUM

TOP 10

THINGS TO DO IN AND AROUND AQABA

+

FROM REC

TO TECH

WHY AQABA IS GREAT FOR ALL LEVELS OF DIVER

EXPLORE THE PAST – THE ROSE RED CITY OF PETRA

10 THINGS TO DO IN

AND AROUND AQABA

1

Go native and interact with the locals

While you are in Aqaba, it would be remiss to not interact with the very people which make this town - and the entire country of Jordan - such a delight to visit. Why not head into the down town area and explore the market, then revitalise yourself with a temporary pause in one of the many restaurants, where you can tempt yourself with sayyedeveh and other Arabic sweets.

2 3

Aqaba bird observatory

This pilot project aims to observe and monitor the migratory birds between Eurasia and Africa through the most-important route between these continents during the spring and autumn migration seasons. You can see over 80 different species during the optimum season.

Take the next step on the diving ladder

The sheltered waters off Aqaba are the perfect natural training site for those wanting to embark on their diving passion, take a further step up the certification ladder, or maybe sample a night dive. With a wealth of experienced dive centres on hand, there is no better place to expand your diving knowledge.

4

Wadi Rum protected area

Wadi Rum is a labyrinth made from monolithic rockscapes rising in the midst of the Hisma Desert. It is a dream for climbers and hikers. Whether you’d like to experience the warm hospitality of the Bedouins as a family, or have a romantic serene evening under the stars, this is a great alternative to a typical night out.

5 6 7

Rose red city of Petra

When the legendary rock-cut city of ancient Petra moves into sight at the end of a deep gorge, you will barely believe your eyes. It is an educational trip steeped into 2,000-year-old history and must be on your bucket list.

Shobak Castle

This old castle, perched on a small hill some 26km away from Petra, was constructed in 1115 CE, and the ruins will hold you spellbound. Be sure to walk the 375 steps down one of the deepest wells ever cut by Crusader forces.

Al Mujib nature reserve

Wadi Mujib is referred to as the ‘Grand Canyon of Jordan’. Given the beauty of the gorges, it is advisable to hire a guide. If you wish to take it easy, ask to experience the hot springs.

8 9 10

Chill and relax in the Dead Sea

Everybody has heard about the Dead Sea. If you get the chance, then take a dip, but don’t worry! Due to the high salt concentration, you will not sink. Come and appreciate the health benefits of the mineral-rich water and clean air. Very good for the skin is a salt rub, followed by a mudpack.

Madaba, Mount Nebo and Baptism site

Madaba is known for the famous Palestine Mosaic Map from the 6th Century - the oldest map of the Holy Land. Nearby Mount Nebo is a memorial to Moses and the presumed site of his burial place. Close by, you can visit the Baptism Site - where Jesus was baptised - which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Wadi Feynan

This remote eco-lodge is your temporary home as you spend a day with the Bedouin shepherds, before enjoying the evening sunset and listening to the ancient stories of your hosts. You can even go for a desert hike.

FROM THE EDITOR

Located right at the very top of the Red Sea is the Gulf of Aqaba, with Israel and Eilat on one side and Jordan and Aqaba on the other. Between Aqaba and the Saudi Border is Jordan’s short 17 miles of Red Sea coastline, off which lie no less than five wrecks, three of which are suitable for recreational divers, and two which lie deeper and work perfectly for technical divers. As well as the shipwrecks, the macro life off the coast here is excellent, with plenty of frogfish, colourful wrasse and blennies.

For non-diving family members there is great snorkelling and swimming right off the beach, glass-bottom viewing submarine trips, watersports or just lovely sandy beaches to unwind on. What makes holidaying in Aqaba special are the chance of incredible land excursions to Wadi Rum and Petra. Petra is one of the new Seven Wonders of the World.

I first visited this area in 1999 and as well as being in awe of the beautiful Cedar Pride shipwreck, I still remember the first time I walked through Petra’s siq and came across the Treasury - it simply blew me away. Couple that with camel riding Lawrence of Arabia-style through the stunning desert scenery of Wadi Rum and floating in the Dead Sea covered in mud, I can’t think of a better all-round unforgettable holiday experience.

On a recent trip here this year, we tried something new - hiking up a river gorge near the Dead Sea (Al Mujib Nature Reserve, the lowest reserve on Earth). Some of us thought it was one of the best things we’d ever done and a real highlight - and that was saying something considering the experiences of Petra and Wadi Rum! My tip to visit here is to come in the Autumn or Spring, as during Summer it does get pretty hot!

GAVIN ANDERSON, PHOTOJOURNALIST

Aqaba on land Aqaba holds many treasures above the water line, but two of the undoubted highlights are Wadi Rum and the Rose Red City of Petra

WADI RUM

Just 37 miles east of Aqaba, the desert valley of Wadi Rum is home is some of the world’s most-incredible scenery. It runs through towering sandstone and granite mountains which seem to disappear into the distance forever. The highest of these mountains is Jabal Jum, reaching 1,734 metres above sea level and the second-highest peak in Jordan.

Known as the ‘valley of the moon’, the area is a protected reserve where controlled tourism is an important part of Jordan’s economy. Tourists are able to camel ride through the desert and imagine they were part of a favourite movie or scene from history.

During the Arab revolt of 1917-18, the famous army officer TE Lawrence wrote about his experiences here in his book The Seven Pillars of Wisdom. Much of Lawrence of Arabia was filmed here, and other films such as The Passion in the Desert, Red Planet, Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen, The Frankincense Trail, The Last Days on Mars, The Martian and Prometheus all filmed scenes here representing either desert or surface of the moon scenes.

As well as jumping on a camel, hiring a 4x4 or just trekking through the dessert and soaking up the amazing scenery, the area has become very popular with rock climbers. In fact, the first climbing pioneers Tony Howard and Di Taylor were recently celebrated in The Face, a BBC film all about climbing in Wadi Rum. Other activities recently introduced include

hot air ballooning, which offers a great way to see the whole amazing vista in one view!

After the excursions of a trek, camel ride or even scaling up the magnificent rocks, a great way to unwind after the excitement of a Rum activity is to share a meal under the cliffs in perfect shade along with the local Bedouins.

They still cook in the traditional way, making a fire in a pit and cooking chicken, lamb or goat in this natural ‘oven’. To accompany the meat dishes, freshly baked pita bread is dipped into delicious side dishes of Tahini, Mansaf and Msabbaha, and at the end of the meal, Bedouin coffee freshly ground and brewed over the fire finishes off a great experience.

Tourism has been controlled very well so far and there are no hotels as yet in Wadi Rum, instead tourists stay at Bedouin camps, many basically well-camouflaged container blocks made to look like tented accommodation, some even with air-conditioning, but most with a ceiling fan and en-suite toilet and shower.

You don’t have to retreat inside, it is possible to sleep under the stars and drink while working out which constellation you are sleeping under!

THE ROSE RED CITY OF PETRA

Established as early as 312BC, the spectacular Rose Red City of Petra was recently voted one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. A complete city has been carved into the sandstone rocks and cliffs which line natural canyons where horses and donkeys once took their goods but today now carry tourists instead. UNESCO has described it as ‘one of the most-precious cultural properties of man's cultural heritage’.

Petra was the capital of the Nabataeans, nomadic Arabs who were commercially-minded and took advantage of Petra’s location at the crossroads of the major ancient trade routes. Countless traders have passed through it on their way along the silk, spice and incense trade routes from east to the west and north to the south. As the Nabataeans built up great wealth and Petra became a major trading hub, they built some of the most-incredible temples and houses right into the rock. Because they were part of the rock, most have survived in amazing condition.

Incredibly, the city remained undiscovered by the west until 1812, when Swiss explorer Johann Ludwick Burchardt found it. Until the 1980s, most of these ancient buildings remained homes to the local Bedouins. Today they have been relocated to a new village in the north, but many return every day to work in the ancient city, offering donkey and horse rides through the Siq, a narrow, winding canyons that leads into the city and the spectacular five-metre-high Al Khazneh, a temple with an ornate, Greek-style facade, known as The Treasury. The ancient tomb took 15 years to create, and is where the closing scenes of Indiana Jones movie The Last Crusade were filmed.

Past The Treasury, another canyon leads to the main city, which covers some three square miles! Up on the right, caved into the rock, are the three most-impressive burial chambers known as the Royal Tombs. The area is also known as the King’s Wall, but it’s not known who the kings were!

As the wadi opens up, ahead on the left is the amazing 8,000-seat Amphitheatre and further on, the main Colonnaded street, where some of the spectacular columns have been re-erected. Up high beyond, a Nabatean bath, and on the left after the Amphitheatre, a market place. There is so much to take in you really need a whole day, or even two, to explore Petra.

Many people run out of time and don’t get to see the amazing Monastery temple. To reach it you have to walk some 45 minutes up hundreds of steps carved into the sandstone rock, which wind one way, then the other.

It’s not only the amazing sight of the Monastery that’s worth the sweat and lung-bursting effort of getting there, but the fantastic views that you get looking down towards Petra and beyond.

Even today, new parts of Petra are being discovered and, in fact, there’s an area described as New Petra which can be explored. Over the years, excavations have demonstrated that it was the ability of the Nabataeans to control the water supply that led to the rise of the desert city, as they created an artificial oasis. The area is visited by flash floods, and archaeological evidence shows the Nabataeans controlled these floods by the use of dams, cisterns and water conduits. These amazing innovations led to water being able to be stored for prolonged periods of drought and enabled the city to prosper from its sale.

DIVING OVERVIEW Located right at the very top of the Red Sea, Jordan’s tiny coastline along the Gulf of Aqaba offers some amazingly good diving. There are some 21 dive sites spread along the coast 12 kilometres to the south of Aqaba town and they vary from deep technical dives on shipwrecks and walls to shallower wrecks and beautiful coral reefs well within recreational diving limits.

Nutrient-rich upwellings wash over the reefs, nourishing soft coral gardens, stunning hard coral islands and pinnacles and black coral forests which can be found in less than 25m of water. The majority of the dive sites lie within the protected Aqaba Marine Park.

Located right at the very top of the Red Sea, Jordan’s tiny coastline along the Gulf of Aqaba offers some amazingly good diving. There are some 30 dive sites spread along the coast 12 kilometres to the south of Aqaba town and they vary from deep technical dives on shipwrecks and walls to shallower wrecks and beautiful coral reefs well within recreational diving limits. Nutrient-rich upwellings wash over the reefs, nourishing soft coral gardens, stunning hard coral islands and pinnacles and black coral forests which can be found in less than 25m of water. The majority of the dive sites lie within the protected Aqaba Marine Park.

Furthermore, the authorities have been very proactive in adding to the natural attractions by sinking a number of artificial reefs, most notably the world-class shipwreck Cedar Pride, the unusual M42 Duster tank (which is shallow enough for beginners or even snorkellers to explore), and the technical wrecks Al Sharouk and the Taiyong. New wrecks are being planned for the future. All this combined makes the waters off Aqaba a veritable playground for divers of all levels.

If you’re looking for one of the best places for novice divers and children wishing to learn how to scuba dive, look no further. All equipment and instructors of the dive centres are highly qualified and regularly checked by the local authority and their participating partners, and most offer PADI, BSAC, CMAS, DIWA and SSI courses. With a plethora of shallow coral reefs and gardens, smothered in reef fish, it is the perfect place to take your first fin step into diving.

Ready to take the next step up the diving ladder? With walls, deeper coral reefs and shipwrecks like the Cedar Pride, which sits in 30m, Aqaba is also the ideal location to complete your Advanced Open Water Diver course (or equivalent) or rack up a Specialty or two.

Want to explore into the depths? Another string in Aqaba’s bow is the range of technical diving sites, both natural – there are some awesome deep walls and dropoffs – and manmade, namely the Al Shorouk and the Taiyong shipwrecks, which are perfect for those already qualified to venture below recreational depths, or those wanting to qualify as a tech diver.

Aqaba offers year-round diving in the Red Sea. There are usually two high seasons a year for tourism, the first is around April-June and the second is September-November, but even in the high season the crowds are nowhere near the size of Egypt and Israel. The winter months are usually quiet for diving, but are perfect for the other excursions around the country, such as Wadi Rum and Petra, as you don’t have the heat of the summer. The best time of year for diving is September /October, when the water is a warm 26 degrees C and the air temperature has dropped to a more-comfortable 30 degrees C .

Visibility varies from 15-30 metres throughout the year, although on very windy days, most common at the beginning of the year, the visibility drops to only a few metres in shallow water, but once you reach 10m depth, it’s still beautiful and clear. During March/April there is the plankton bloom, which also reduces the visibility slightly, but still never less than 15 metres.

Aqaba, and Jordan as a whole, is a very safe tourist destination, the locals are very friendly and welcoming, and what this country has to offer, with the Rose Red City of Petra and Wadi Rum to explore on days off diving, is quite unique.

TOP 5

DIVES

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The Cedar Pride

One of the most-famous dive sites in Aqaba is the Cedar Pride. She lies between a depth of 9m-30m and is a must in your logbook.

The Leba- nese freighter was sunk in 1985 and counts as one the best wreck dives in the Red Sea. The mast, topped by the crow’s nest, is without doubt the highlight and a perfect draw for photographers and divers. The site is populated by large grouper, scorpionfish and millions of glassfish.

Japanese Garden and Gorgon I

These two sites can be combined into a wonderful drift dive.

Japanese Garden is a magnificent reef bed smothered in colourful soft and hard corals and vibrant sponges. It starts in the shallows and then slopes off into the depths. Go with the flow and you will find yourself on Gorgon I, a site named after the wonderful, large gorgonian fan coral at a depth of 16m, although black coral is also found in the deeper portions of the dive. You don’t have to head below 20m, though, as this is an excellent shallow drift dive. It is not uncommon to come across coral-munching turtles and parrotfish roaming the reef, and even majestic eagle rays.

3

The Al Shorouk

The Al Shorouk was sunk on 18 June 2008 off Kirk’s Forest with her stern in 58m and her bow in 35m. Once a vehicle ferry, she lies on her port side with her large rear door leading to a long cargo deck, and her bridge, funnel and engine room all towards her stern. She is slowly attracting more and more marine life and has plenty of soft corals, small sea fans and bushes of black coral, especially along her starboard side and around her bridge.

Totally intact and very scenic, you could dive this wreck on a weak helium mix or even air if you watch your bottom time, as the visibility is normally excellent and you can see all of the wreck staying above 50m.

4

Seven Sisters and M42 Duster tank

This American M42 Duster tracked anti-aircraft gun was turned into an artificial reef during 1999. At only 5m, this unusual site - is isn’t everyday you see what is essentially a tank on the seabed! - is suitable for beginners and snorkellers. But this is not all the unique dive site has to offer. Seven large coral blocks which are found in a depth of 10m nearby are aptly named the Seven Sisters. An abundance of biodiversity is at home on these blocks, in particular stone coral, like brain and salad-leaf coral, but also colourful sponges are a true eye-catcher.

5

The Taiyong

The wreck of the Taiyong was discovered by the Dive Aqaba Tec Team in 2004 and lies fully intact on its starboard side in between 35m-57m off the lovely reef dive site known as the Japanese Gardens. Used by the Aqaba Port Authority since 1974 for off-loading ships coming into Aqaba, she was scuttled in late-1999 after an accident led to the jib of the loading crane dropping through the ship's hold.

The Taiyong’s most-impressive feature is its huge A-frame crane, which stretches out over the reef almost as far as the wreck itself from bow to stern at an angle of 90 degrees.

This wreck is rich in marine growth, with soft corals, sea fans and black coral trees, which attract plenty of fish life, with shoals of glassfish, lionfish, damselfish and fusiliers. On her starboard side there are particularly dense growths of black coral, and her two rudders project upwards into the water. Deco stops among the corals and the many schooling anthias, sergeant majors and more fusiliers in the shallower depths of Japanese Gardens just help add to this fabulous wreck dive like the cherry on top of a cake.

RECREATIONAL DIVING

One of Aqaba’s most-famous dive sites is the wreck of the Cedar Pride, which sunk in November 1985.

Originally called the Mone Dos, the 74-metre-long freighter was launched in 1964 by its Spanish owners.

In 1969, she was renamed Puerto De Pasajes and then in 1978 San Bruno, before eventually - after being sold to a Lebanese company in 1982 - she became the Cedar Pride. Just a few months later, when a cargo of phosphates and potassium were being loaded on to her, a fire broke out in her engine room and burnt through the ship. Two of the crew lost their lives battling the fire, but the ship didn’t sink.

She was left abandoned on the shore for three whole years until the then-Prince Abdullah saw the chance to create an artificial reef, something that wasn’t particularly common in those days. Both he and his father, the then-King Hussain, were keen divers and with the help of the World Wildlife Fund in Jordan and the King’s backing, they hatched a plan to sink the old cargo ship within easy reach of the shore. They did their homework well, checking to find the perfect place to sink her where she would be protected against an ancient, well-established reef to stop her slipping into deeper water. The plan worked perfectly. Today, some 30 years later, the Cedar Pride remains virtually totally intact in just 30m of water.

Beginning in less than 10m, the wreck is perfect for all levels of diver to enjoy. She is resting on the reef on her port side, her surfaces festooned in soft and hard corals. Many different fish species, including parrotfish, pufferfish, lionfish, anthias and wrasse have made their home on her. Loads of light reaches the wreck and she is one of the Red Sea’s most-photogenic wrecks. Her beautiful mast and crow’s nest are particularly scenic, covered in red, pink and orange soft corals. Many divers explore here and the stern, but it’s really worth taking a look at her bow too, as it’s possibly the most-colonised area of the wreck, covered in soft corals and sponges.

Right next to the Cedar Pride is a barge, scuttled in 1996 after Alcatel had finished laying the electrical cables to Egypt. Next door to the Cedar Pride and Barge is one of Aqaba’s most-popular and scenic dives, Japanese Gardens. Japanese Gardens is possibly Aqaba’s best reef dive, it’s crammed full of stunning hard coral with ancient table corals and, deeper down, a fantastic forest of black coral. Schools of

sergeant majors, fusiliers, anthias, parrotfish, butterflyfish and free-swimming morays can be seen here. A little deeper down you may spot the start of the Taiyong shipwreck, a tech dive due to it being located between 35m-60m.

Not far from Japanese Gardens are another cluster of beautiul dive sites, Gorgonian I, Gorgonian II, Oliver’s Canyon and, in the shallows, the M42 Duster anti-aircraft tank.

The latter was sunk to create an artificial reef on 1 September 1999 with the involvement of the Jordan Royal Ecological Diving Society and King Abdullah. I dived the wreck just a few months after it had originally sunk and lionfish, moray eels and anthias had already moved in to make the tank their home. Now it has whole shoals of anthias, lionfish and stunning corals.

The sites that lead to the M42 Duster tank, Oliver’s Canyon and the Seven

Sisters, are great dives in themselves, so adding the M42 tank just makes them even more special and there are other wrecks to be sunk in the future!

Gorgonian I is, as its name suggests, home to a beautiful gorgonian fan which sits proud on the reef around 18m. Nearby, a table coral sits proud of the main reef on a single coral head.

Butterflyfish and bannerfish can often be seen shoaling in the area. Gorgonian II, the neighbouring site, is home to two stunning fans, one in 22m, the other in 33m. Swimming up from the fans into the shallows, you can find a group of pinnacles known as the Seven Sisters. The pinnacles buzz with anthias, and occasionally stonefish and scorpionfish can be found here too.

To the south of the Seven Sisters is a beautiful canyon known as Oliver’s Canyon, which leads down to a drop-off at 40m.

Historically nearly all the diving in Jordan has been shore diving, but boat diving is becoming more popular and handy when diving off the south end of the drop-off at the Power Station, the site closest to Aqaba town. The wall plunges almost vertically to 40m here and then there’s a small shelf, before it plunges once more into depths well beyond sport diving limits.

Going down the south end mooring to 25m will bring you to some lovely black coral trees within which some weird anemones can be found growing. After checking them out divers normally cruise along the wall choosing a comfortable depth. In summer, sometimes a manta ray or whaleshark might pass by, which will really make your dive, but you’re more likely to see the odd barracuda, shoal of fusiliers or damselfish, and in the soft and hard corals shoaling anthias being hunted by longnose hawkish and lionfish.

Jordan is not really a place to see ‘big fish’, in summer as well as the rare sight of a whaleshark, you can encounter the odd manta as well as eagle rays, stingrays and hawksbill turtles, but what Aqaba is well known for is its fantastic macro. There are loads of shrimps, nudibranchs, pipefish, frogfish and huge stonefish often in no deeper than a few metres, like under the pier of Rainbow Reef right off the Sindbad Dive Centre. The pier is also home to schools of glassfish in the summer. If you get it right, the pier can be both a wide-angle and macro photographer’s paradise. Rainbow Reef is also a great place to photograph both the Red Sea fairy basslet and eight-lined wrasse or flasher fish.

Further down the coast, opposite one of the longer-established dive centres, the Royal Diving Centre, are the Aquarium, home to loads of fire coral and some lovely table corals over two reefs which drop from 15m-30m, and Coral Gardens, where a sloping bed of sea grass gives way to sand and some bizarre coral heads draped in soft corals. Further down the slope you’ll eventually come across black coral trees, home to loads of anthias and Red Sea bannerfish. n

TECH DIVING

We spread our equipment out carefully on the floor of the five-star PADI Sindbad. Each of us had our wings and baseplates, two main regulators and two bail outs.

We were on a last-minute trip put together by the Aqaba Special Economic Zone Authority to introduce divers to the possibilities of technical wreck diving in Jordan.

Helium analysers in hand, we checked our gas mixes 18/40 would be more than perfect for our main tanks, and 50 and 80 percent in our bail-outs. Sindbad is located at the Bernice Beach Club a short distance out of the Red Sea coast resort of Aqaba.

Helium analysers in hand, we checked our gas mixes - 18/40 would be more than perfect for our main tanks, and 50 and 80 percent in our bail-outs. Sindbad is located at the Bernice Beach Club a short distance out of the Red Sea coast resort of Aqaba.

After a quick briefing in the office, complete with a site map and information on depths and the plans for the day, we were soon loading our gear off the jetty on to Sindbad 1144, a modern, roomy dive boat.

It was only a very short distance to the Al Shorouk wreck site, located not far from Jordan’s most-famous wrecks, the Cedar Pride and M42 Duster tank. Although in theory possible to shore dive, it would be much easier, safer and more convenient kitting up and jumping off the boat.

The Al Shorouk was scuttled by the Aqaba Marine Park on 18 June 2008. The intention was to sink it within normal recreational depths within swimming distance of the Duster tank and Seven Sisters dive sites, but she drifted into deeper water. She had been heading for depths of more than 100m before being pushed back as she went under. Resting on her starboard side to the west of Kirk’s Forest - named after Kirk Green of Aquatours, a pioneer of diving in Aqaba back in the 1980s - her bow is located in 35m and her stern in around 60m. The perfect depth for technical divers. Kirk’s Forest is a deep dive worth exploring in its own right due to the fantastic black coral trees and another small wreck yet to be identified.

Hooking on our bail outs and clambering to the edge of the boat one by one, we dropped down a line which led us conveniently straight to the bow and it was not long before we saw the huge main door flanked by two large lorry tyres. The Shorouk was once a vehicle ferry and as we swam over the main long deck, I could see the rings

and holes in the floor where they would have tied down the cars and lorries. The water was reasonably clear and the faint outline of a bridge gradually appeared in the distance. At first everything was in silhouette and looked devoid of life, but as we got closer, the textures and detail appeared and we could see that despite just nine years under the sea, the Shorouk had a healthy covering of marine life, with clumps of soft corals, small sea fans and small bushes of black coral.

The wreck is very scenic and totally intact. I hovered just past the stern and looked back, taking in the whole rear section back to the bridge. I headed along the shallower port side of the wreck and on reaching the bridge, I decided to drop down inside the wreck’s

engine room for a quick look. Swimming past a small school of damselfish, I found myself cruising past half-cut-away ventilation ducts and electrical wires and pipes presumably dealt with to make the wreck safe for divers to explore. A ladder at the far end led back up on to the deck level and I gave the engine only a quick glance as at 55m, my time was limited.

Swimming back out the way I entered, I finned up along the cargo deck, turning my camera around to frame some of large circular holes and steel rings on the deck forming a regular repetitive pattern as far as my eyes could see, only interrupted by a few tiny areas of black coral growth and red algae. In another few years, the corals will have spread and grown and helped this wreck really transform into a reef, becoming a haven for marine life and attracting many more fish than we’d seen today.

Watching my computer closely I headed up to the stern once more and started my ascent, stopping very briefly on my way to 18m to start my first three-minute stop. Here I swapped regs to start breathing 50 percent to aid my decompression.

To reach the Duster and finish my deco, I swam up through a scenic sandy canyon lined in coral islands and schooling fish before swimming out on to a seemingly vast desert with only the odd small coral head. Just when I thought I’d headed the wrong way, the outline of the anti-aircraft tank appeared.

I last dived on it late in 1999 just a few months after it had been sunk. Back then it had already attracted some lionfish, morays and colourful anthias, but corals had yet to really get hold. Now 18 years later, I could see her smooth lines were interrupted by brilliant hard corals, bushes of soft coral and vibrant red tube sponges. Down

TECH DIVING

below the tracks and wheels had sunk down into the sand considerably.

Moving round to the front, I peered inside and down on the deck, where a group of lionfish were hovering half upside-down waiting to ambush some careless anthias or glassfish.

Saying our goodbyes to Sindbad, we packed our gear and moved to Arab Divers further down the coast to dive the wreck of the Taiyong.

Discovered by the Dive Aqaba Tec Team in 2004, it lies on its starboard side in between 35m-57m off the lovely dive site known as the Japanese Gardens.

A brisk wind had put quite a chop on the sea and our transfer from our small boat to the centre’s larger one was slightly adventurous, but onboard the larger much more stable platform, we kitted up with relative ease and descended a line down to the Japanese Garden dive site. We cruised down the sloping reef as it slowly got darker and darker. Eventually, after a good seven minutes, we spotted the outline of the Taiyong.

The Taiyong had been used by the Aqaba Port Authority since 1974 for off-loading ships coming into Aqaba. An accident led to the jib of the loading crane dropping and causing damage to the ship's hold, which although initially repaired with a concrete plug, wasn’t up to the job and it was decided, due to being uneconomical to repair, the best thing to do was scuttle her, which they did in late-1999.

As we swam past her bow and down past midships, we could quickly see how much more coral and fish were on this wreck having been under

the water a good 18 years. The Taiyong’s most-impressive feature is its huge A-frame crane, which stretches out over the reef in nearly 60m of water. I swam right off the wreck as far as I could go to capture the whole crane and stern section of the wreck, which is hugely atmospheric and very scenic. Moving back in closer I swam past shoals of glassfish gently moved one way then the other by several large lionfish and along a lovely swim-through at the base of the crane where huge winches, pulleys and pipes hang off the ship’s deck. There were schools of damselfish and fusiliers and rich growths of soft and black corals.

Swimming up, I decided to have a quick look at the stern and other side of the wreck and found the ship’s two rudders and a forest of fantastic black coral. This is a classic Rea Sea wreck in pristine condition, beautiful to look at, exciting to dive on and full of colourful marine life, but sadly time is always against you when you’re down at nearly 60m. I made my deco stops among the corals and the many schooling anthias, sergeant majors and more fusiliers in the shallower depths of Japanese Gardens.

Aqaba may not have the variety and number of wrecks of some of its near-neighbours, but what it has is first class for these deep wreck dives, and they will only get better with time - and there may be yet more wrecks to discover. With afternoon dives to off-gas on the shallower wrecks, like the Duster tank, Cedar Pride and Tarmac wrecks, and beautiful reefs with fantastic marine life, it has a lot to offer technical divers. n

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AQABA

DID YOU

AN INSIDE GUIDE

AQABA/JORDAN

Four states border the 100,000 sq km make up Jordan. During the last thousands of years, the Egyptians, Phoenicians, Persians, Jews, Romans, Greeks, Muslims, Crusaders and the English have all left traces at the end of their colonialism. Across the country, the tourist interested in culture will stumble across relicts from different periods of timeline.

WHERE TO EAT AND MEET

Guidebooks might tell you where to eat, however, the locals can tell you what to eat and why. Enjoy the charm of Aqaba and a wondrous mix of culture. The Souks are a perfect amalgam of colour, energy, and vibrancy.

DIVING

Aqaba offers a large spectrum of different watersport activities for the whole family, with over 21 dive sites to choose from. The good visibility and calm waters make this a paradise for photographers, families and beginners. Challenging dive sites are available for tech diving. Water temps range from 20°C in winter to 27°C in summer. During winter, a 7mm suit is recommended, during summer, a shortie or 3mm suit will suffice.

HOTEL AND ACCOMMODATION

Aqaba has a wide choice of accommodation available for every budget.

From the five-star resort, the apartment or down to the very mundane camping site, the choice is yours. If you prefer life in the city, exclusive hotels are on offer. A few kilometres outside of the city are the quieter, more

HOW TO GET THERE

There are flights from all major UK airports with Turkish Airlines to Amman or direct to Aqaba. The possibility also exists to travel via ferry or speedboat from Taba and Nuweiba in Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula to Aqaba.

WHEN TO VISIT

It is a year-round travel destination, but ideal times are February to May and September to December.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

Visitors are granted a free visa if visiting Aqaba within 48 hours of arrival into Jordan, regardless of entry point. On arrival in Aqaba, visitors must register their arrival date into the town at ASEZA Visa department within 48 hours.

KNOW?

Near the harbour you can find the Aqaba Flagpole, the sixth tallest free-standing flagpole in the world at a height of over 131 metres high.

It carries the flag of the Arab Revolt, commemorating the Battle of Aqaba that too k place in 1917.

low-key hotels and the larger, all-inclusive resorts, each with their own charming ambience. Close by are the local dive centres with comfortable, family friendly and childcare accommodation. A regular shuttle-bus service is on constant offer, and taxis are very reasonable.

THE DIVE CENTRES

For divers, Aqaba is a paradise. There are over 15 dive centres available.

The local dive schools are mainly under the guideline of PADI, or are accredited by BSAC, CMAS, SSI, or IAC. It is a perfect place to continue your diver training to all levels. Divers who have started their certifications at home can finish their courses in Aqaba. Dive spots are reached by boat, or from the beach.

HYPERBARIC CHAMBER

A large, state-of-the-art multi-place hyperbaric chamber is situated at the Prince Hashem bin Abdullah II Hospital in Aqaba. Doctor Fawzi Mohammed Khawaldeh does not only treat divers with decompression illness, but other medically related problems.

FURTHER INFORMATION

The Marketing & Tourism Directorate: www.aqaba.jo Make sure you stop at Aqaba Tourist Information Centre, located at South Al Hammamat al Tuniseyieh Street to collect free guidebooks about Aqaba and its surroundings. Open daily from 9am to 5pm.

Tel: +962 (0)3 203 53 60 Email: infoaqaba@aseza.jo

CURRENCY

Dinar (roughly £1 = 1 JD).

WHERE TO EAT AND MEET

A wealth of good restaurants and cafes in the city offer fresh local cuisine, but when you are out in the desert, be sure to eat with the Bedouin for a true taste of Jordan.

VERDICT

Aqaba is the ideal place for a complete holiday. With its laidback atmosphere, culture, rich history, duty-free shopping and diving, the city of Aqaba is a must on the holiday list. It is a perfect base from which to dive and visit Petra, Wadi Rum, the Dead Sea, the Bird Sanctuary, nature reserves and much more.

DIVE CENTRES

AHLAN AQABA SCUBA DIVING CENTER

SINAI DIVERS AQABA

AQABA ANCHOR DIVING CENTER

SINDBAD DIVE CLUB

Al-Nahda St. (Front the cazar hotel) 00962 (0) 3 206 2242 info@diveinaqaba.com | www.diveinaqaba.com

Ishbilya St. (Behind the post office) 00962 (0) 796122120 aqabasanchordivingcentre@gmail.com | www.aqabasanchor.com

ARAB DIVERS

Southern beach 00962 (03) 2031808 info@aqabadive.com; go@arabdivers.jo | www.aqabadive.com

BARRACUDA DIVING CLUB

Al-Nakhil area 00962 (0) 795881170 barracuda.aqaba@gmail.com | www.barracudamarineservice.com

Southern beach - Movenpick Resort 00962 (03) 205 0030 sdaqaba@sinaidivers.com | www.sinaidivers.com

Southern beach +962 (0)79 610 1629 divingmanager@sindbadjo.com; thaer@sindbadjo.com www.sindbadjo.com

BEDOUIN GARDEN VILLAGE

Southern beach 00962 795857544 aqababedouindiver@gmail.com | www.aqaba-hotels.com

DEEP BLUE DIVE CENTER

EXTRA DIVERS AQABA

Al-Sa'ada St (Aleman building) 00962 (03) 203 5006 operation@deepbluedivecenter.com www.deepbluedivecenter.com

RED SEA DIVE CENTER

Al-Sa'ada St (Front the cazar hotel) 0096 795104050 eid_sea@yahoo.com | www.aqabaseadiving.com

Southern beach - Tala Bay Resort 00962(0) 777887034 aqaba@extradivers.org | www.extradivers-worldwide.com

Southern beach 00962 (03) 2018969 info@aqabascubadiving.com; abdullah@aqabascubadiving.com www.aqabascubadiving.com

AQABA BEACH ACADEMY FOR DIVING

AQABA PRO DIVERS

00962 791435930 Aqabaprodivers@gmail.com | www.aqabaprodivers.com

HOTEL GUIDE MOEVENPICK RESORT & RESIDENCES AQABA 00962 (03) 2034020 resort.aqaba.reservation@moevenpick.com; shamel.droubi@moevenpick.com www.moevenpick-hotels.com/aqaba

MOEVENPICK RESORT & SPA TALA BAY AQABA 00962 (03) 2090300 resort.talabay.reservation@moevenpick.com www.moevenpick-hotels.com

ORYX HOTEL 00962 (03) 2051111 reservation@oryx-hotel.com www.oryx-hotel.com

INTERCONTINENTAL AQABA RESORT 00962 (03) 2092222 res.aqaba@ihg.com www.intercontinental.com

RADISSON BLU TALA BAY RESORT 00962 (03) 209 0777 info.talabay.aqaba@radissonblu.com www.radissonblu.com/resort-aqaba

KEMPINSKI HOTEL AQABA 00962 (03) 209 0888 sales.aqaba@kempinski.com www.kempinski.com/aqaba

DOUBLE TREE BY HILTON AQABA 00962 (03) 2093209 doubletreeaqaba.reservations@hilton.com www.doubletree.com

AQABA GULF HOTEL 00962 (03) 2016636 info@aqabagulf.com www.aqabagulf.com

DAYS INN HOTEL & SUITS AQABA 00692 (03) 203 1901 reservation@daysinn-aqaba.com; info@daysinn-aqaba.com www.daysinn-aqaba.com

MARINA PLAZA HOTEL 00962 (03) 209 2900 reservations.marina@marinaplaza.org www.marinaplazahotel.com

CAPTAIN HOTEL AQABA 00962 (03) 2060710; 00962 (0) 3 201 6905 sales@captains.jo | www.captains.jo

CRYSTAL HOTEL

AMEIRA HOTEL

00962 (03) 202 2001/2/3 crystalhotelaqaba@yahoo.com www.crystal-international.com

00962 (03) 2018840 tareqalshamaa@yahoo.com

AQUAVISTA HOTEL & SUITS

00962 796256088 atalla_dweik@yahoo.com

00962 (03) 205 1620 info@aquavistaaqaba.com www.aquavistaaqaba.com

CAZAR HOTEL 00962 (03) 2014131 alcazarhotel@orange.jo

CEDAR HOTEL 00962 (03) 2030304 cedar_hotel@yahoo.com

CLASSIC HOTEL

DWEIK HOTEL 1

GOLDEN ROSE HOTEL 00962 (03) 2039880 gm@goldenroseaqaba.com www.goldenroseaqaba.com

MOON BEACH HOTEL 00962 (03) 2013316 ashrafsaad77@yahoo.com

SAFA HOTEL

00962 (03) 2050071 classichotelrt@gmail.com

00962 (0) 79 660 2333

DREAM HOTEL

00962 (03) 2013414 almarsahotel@gmail.com

00962 (03) 2017352 hotel_dream@yahoo.com

DWEIK HOTEL 2 00962 (03) 2035919 atalla_dweik@yahoo.com

JARDANEH HOTEL 00962 (03) 2061103 info@jardanehhotel.com

MASWADA PLAZA HOTEL 00962 (03) 203 9600 yahya.maswada@yahoo.com

NAIROUKH HOTEL II 00962 (03) 2012980 menairoukh@gmail.com

AL SHULA HOTEL 00962 (03) 2015155; 00962 (03) 201 5153 alshulahotel@yahoo.com

SHWEKIE HOTEL 00962 (03) 2022657/8 shweiki_hotel@yahoo.com

AL ZAITUNA HOTEL 00962 (03) 2019601/4 zaitounahotel@yahoo.com

AL ZATRIA HOTEL 00962 (03) 2022970/1/2/3 alshulahotel@yahoo.com

AMER HOTEL 2 00962 (03) 2019285/4

AL MARSA HOTEL

GOLDEN TULIP HOTEL 00962 (03) 205 1234 reservations@goldentulipaqaba.com

MINA HOTEL 00962 (03) 201 5165/66 reservations@hotelsmina.com

MY HOTEL 00962 (03) 203 0890/1/2/3 info@myhotel-jordan.com www.myhotel-jordan.com

AL QIDRA HOTEL 00962 (03) 201 4230; 00962 (03) 202 2555 info@alqidrahotelaqaba.com osamaqidra@yhoo.com www.alqidrahotelaqaba.com

RA'AD HOTEL 00962 (03) 201 8686 info@raedhotel.com www.alraadhotel.com

YAFKO HOTEL 00962 (03) 2042222 info@yafko.com eservation@yafko.com reservation@yafko.com

AQUAMARINA III 00962 797419000 ayman.jabr@hotmail.com www.aquamarina-group.com

PRESENTS A GUIDE TO

EGYPTIAN RED SEA

REEFS,

WALLS &

WRECKS

TOP DIVE SITES FROM NORTH TO SOUTH

5

THINGS YOU MUST DO IN EGYPT

5 THINGS YOU MUST DO IN EGYPT

1

Dive the SS Thistlegorm

The SS Thistlegorm was a British supply ship that sank in October 1941 after being bombed

by German aircraft while it was moored up in a supposedly safe anchorage enroute for the Suez Canal. She was less than a year old when she went down, chock-full of Allied military supplies, including motorbikes, Bren gun carriers, trucks, rubber boots, rifles and munitions, and is now like an underwater museum.

2

Dive the Brothers

The Brother Islands (El Akhawein in Arabic) lie some 60 miles offshore in the middle of the Red Sea and offer some of the most-exciting and challenging diving in Egypt. Lying several hundred metres apart, Big Brother (which boats a Victorian-built lighthouse) and Small Brother rise up from the depths and are swept by sometimes strong currents, which means prolific coral growth and serious shark action, including oceanic whitetips, threshers and silkies, as well as grey reef and hammerheads. Plus you have two awesome wrecks on the larger island, the Aida and the Numidia.

3

1

3

Snorkel the reefs

Just because you are here scuba diving doesn’t mean you should overlook or dismiss the many snorkelling opportunities on hand. It is a great way to spend your surface intervals, or on any non-diving days. The fringing reefs of the Red Sea boast a huge amount of marine life, and you can see a huge array of reef dwellers in just a few metres of water.

If you have any non-divers with you, use the fantastic snorkelling as a means to get them into the water.

2

5

4

4 5

Try local Egyptian food

You can’t spend an entire holiday in Egypt and not sample the delicious local food. There are a multitude of dishes, but some of the best include fava beans and falafel, kushari, veal or lamb kofta kebab, Alexandrian sausages and liver, beef Hawawski (Egyptian meat pie), Shawerma, Fattah, Sayadeya, Besarah and Baladi bread. Give your tastebuds a treat and try a local specialty.

Climb Mount Sinai

Mount Sinai is neither the highest mountain in the region, nor the most dramatic; in fact, were it not for a single, overwhelming belief that has endured for over 15 centuries, Mount Sinai would probably be a topographical footnote. But this is the mountain where God spoke to Moses, according to legend, and that belief has drawn pilgrims for over 1,000 years. You can follow that route.

It takes about three hours to climb the 2,285-metre peak following the Path of Moses, a stairway of nearly 4,000 steps. There is a longer, less-strenuous route up the opposite side, though it is less scenic. In both cases, you should bring good hiking shoes and plenty of water.

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DIVING OVERVIEW The Egyptian Red Sea is one of the most-popular diving destinations in the region, and for good reason – it is only a short flight from Europe, the weather is good year-round, diving conditions are highly favourable, it is excellent value for money, and it boasts an array of dive sites, including world-class shipwrecks, walls, reefs and drifts, not to mention a plethora of marine life, many of which are endemic to the area.

Major resort areas include Taba, Nuweiba, Dahab, Sharm el Sheikh, El Gouna, Hurghada, El Quseir and Marsa Alam, and while you can dayboat out of all of these, several are also the boarding points for liveaboards, which can whisk you to the offshore marine parks, the true jewel in the diving crown for Egypt.

Sharm el Sheikh is the gateway to some of the most-well-known dive sites in Egypt, including the SS Thistlegorm, Ras Mohammed Marine Park and the Straits of Tiran, and a popular spot for learning to dive, thanks to the warm waters, colourful marine life, sheltered training sites and top-quality dive centres.

Hurghada is the second largest city located on Egypt’s Red Sea coast, and compared to some of the more-ancient towns and cities along the mainland coastline, it is a more modern-day phenomenon, coming into existence in the last century and thriving ever since. It is your access point to the likes of wreck graveyard Sha’ab Abu Nuhas and the Rosalie Moller, as well as several famous reef systems.

An ancient port town that has since become a tranquil escape for tourists, Safaga is an unassuming place. Located a short distance south of Hurghada, this is a town ideal for those wanting to dive in a chilled environment. Top dive sites include the wreck of the Salem Express, and the impressive reefs of Panorama and Abu Qifan.

Not many divers really know about El Quseir, a secret little gem that lies between the two international hubs of Hurghada and Marsa. It is arguably this fact that makes the place such a draw. Eating, sleeping and diving are the three main themes of a visit to El Quseir, and daytrips out to various dive sites are both quick and comfortable, a combination that makes for a great stay. Hotspots include the anemone-covered Rock, as well as a smorgasbord of shore-diving sites great for all levels of diver.

Marsa Alam is fast becoming one of Egypt’s most-talked-about diving destinations. Initially seen as the boarding point for liveaboards to the Deep South and offshore marine parks, the development of Port Ghalib and the surrounding area has seen it become a thriving resort catering for dayboat divers and general holidaymakers. Excellent dive sites include Abu Dabab, where you may be lucky enough to see a dugong, the shore-divable Hamada wreck, and the stunning reef in Marsa El Fukary.

The undoubted stars of Egypt’s diving attractions are the offshore marine parks. This collection of islands and pinnacles located in the middle and deep south of the Egyptian Red Sea boast some of the most-spectacular coral growth you will ever see, with the additional bonus of world-class shipwrecks, awesome shark action and the occasional rip-roaring current to spice things up. Stars include The Brothers, Daedalus, Rocky Island, Zabargad and St John’s Reef. n

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Sultana Building Naama Bay, PO Box 67 Sharm El Sheikh, South Sinai, Egypt Tel: 0020 (0) 69 3600 145 Fax :0020 (0) 69 3600 144 Email: info@redseadivingcollege.com www.redseadivingcollege.com

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WRECK DIVING Egypt’s waters boast a vast array of world-class shipwrecks, spearheaded by the SS Thistlegorm, a British supply ship that sank in October 1941 after being bombed by German aircraft while it was moored up in a supposedly safe anchorage enroute for the Suez Canal.

She was less than a year old when she went down, chock-full of Allied military supplies, including motorbikes, Bren gun carriers, trucks, rubber boots, rifles and munitions, and is now like an underwater museum. She can be reached from Sharm el Sheikh or El Gouna/Hurghada, but is often visited by liveaboards as well.

Heading out from Hurghada and El Gouna, you can find Sha’ab Abu Nuhas, a wreck graveyard that has claimed several victims. The British-built steamship SS Carnatic sank in 1869 having run aground on Abu Nuhas. Having run the ship aground the captain gave the order for people to remain onboard, despite requests to disembark. The ship eventually split in two and sank, claiming 31 lives in the process. Both pieces of the wreck now lie on their port sides and are smothered in coral growth. The wreck lies in less than 30m and is therefore a stunning dive accessible to all.

The Giannis D lies a short distance from the wreck of the SS Carnatic, another victim of Abu Nuhas. The cargo ship, which was carrying sawn softwood to Jeddah, hit the reef and sank on 19 April 1983. She now lies in three pieces - the bow, amidships and stern - with the stern widely regarded as the most-enjoyable section. Much like the Carnatic, the Giannis D is very accessible, lying in approximately 24m and reaching to within 4m of the surface, and therefore suitable for all levels of diver. Also accessible from Hurghada and El Gouna, the 108-metre-long Glasgow-built Rosalie Moller was sunk in 1941 by German bombers having been requisitioned for the war effort.

The Rosie, as she was known, was forced to anchor on her journey to Alexandria due to a collision in the Suez Canal.

While moored at a site known as Safe Anchorage H, she was spotted by German bombers during the sinking of the Thistlegorm and sunk two days later. She now lies with her main

deck in approximately 30m of water and is home to a variety of marine life, including grouper and glass fish. Other, larger fish swarm the wreck. While the shallowest section of the wreck reaches 16m, the deck is at 30-32m and the deepest part lies below 50m, so this is really one for advanced divers.

Easily accessible from Safaga and El Quseir, the Salem Express is a car and passenger ferry that tragically sank in 1991 with significant loss of life. As such, there is a degree of controversy with regards to diving the wreck, but provided divers are respectful it makes for an absorbing dive. The site is haunting, with the loss of life - cars, old belongings - clear to see. Lying in 30m it is a dive suitable for all experience levels, though the harrowing nature of the site may not suit all.

The offshore marine parks are famed for their coral growth and marine life, but on Big Brother, you have two awesome wrecks, the Aida and the bigger Numidia. The latter is impossibly clinging vertically to the north wall and drops to over 80m, well beyond recreational limits but metal heaven for technical divers. It is absolutely dripping in soft coral and sponges and makes for an unforgettable sight. n

a i n i d r a S t Egyp a i s e n o d n I Mauritius

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REEF DIVING

Egypt’s waters are rightly famed fortheir colourful corals and multiple species of marine life, and wherever you head within the country, you are sure to be blown away by what you see.

Easily reached from Sharm, you find Shark and Yolanda Reef, at the tip of the Sinai Peninsula in the Ras Mohammed Marine Park. Any place that is named as one of the top ten dives in the world by the late Jacques-Yves Cousteau has to be something special, and Shark and Yolanda Reef definitely tick that box. A sheer wall drops into the abyss, colourful corals smother the reef, and myriad varieties of marine life abound. Dive it in July/August and you will be amid huge shoals of snapper, unicornfish, batfish and barracuda, some numbering into the thousands.

North of Sharm el Sheikh, the Gulf of Aqaba narrows, and in the middle of the channel lie four reefs, which rise up from deep water and are now a magnet for marine life thanks to the heavy coral growth and strong currents.

Jackson, Gordon, Woodhouse and Thomas - named after the 19th century English cartographers who drew the first nautical map of the area - are simply stunning dive sites.

Out from Hurghada and El Gouna, you can dive Abu Ramada, which boasts a reef wall on the east side which is covered in corals and marine life and will hold your attention as you drift by. Big fish, including barracuda and reef sharks, can be spotted by turning your back to the reef and looking into the blue.

Safaga is the gateway to Panorama Reef, which has numerous plateaus, steep dropoffs and marine life a-plenty. Close by is Abu Qifan, another huge lump of rock that disappears into the deep. For those wishing to spot some big stuff, this is your spot.

Venture out from El Quseir and you can dive The Rock, where atop two humble rock pinnacles lie literally hundreds of red-and-green anemones, all clinging and competing for space. Swarming in, above and around them are an even-greater number of clownfish. It is an astonishing site.

For sheer coral growth, sightings of bigger marine species and high levels of excitement, you need to head to the offshore marine parks. At the Brother Islands (El Akhawein in Arabic), some 60 miles out in the middle of the Red Sea, you have two islands that rise up from the depths and are swept by sometimes strong currents, which means prolific coral growth and serious shark action, including oceanic whitetips, threshers and silkies, as well as grey reef and hammerheads.

Also in the middle of the Red Sea is Daedalous (Abu Kizan in Arabic), an enormous reef that is renowned as a hotspot for encounters with pelagic fish, in particular shoals of hammerhead sharks off the northern tip, with the chance of thresher, oceanic whitetip and grey reef sharks as well. Turtles, barracuda, trevallies and other ocean-going predators also cruise the deep waters around Daedalus.

In an area known as the Deep South, you will find St John's Reef, which is the name given to 14 square miles of diverse coral atolls and offshore reefs sitting just several kilometres north of the Sudanese border. This extensive reef system has over a dozen known dive sites, including drop-offs, coral gardens and sloping reefs, and more are being discovered all the time. Coral growth is prolific and pristine, and you can expect huge shoals of reef fish congregating on the reefs. n

Euro-Divers

Utopia Beach Club

W

ith its quiet surrounding away from the hustle and bustle of the North Red Sea, Utopia has now also become a peaceful haven and ideal destination for sunbathers, snorkellers and, of course, for divers.

More than 300 rooms in various categories can accommodate our guests, yet we are very proud to still provide a friendly family-like atmosphere. Whether guests stay with us for months at a time or just for a short break, they continue to return year after year.

Utopia is blessed with an abundance of stunning dive sites, especially directly in front of the hotel – the house reef is one of the best dive sites in the Marsa Alam area, and easy reachable from shore with our underwater experts, the Euro-Divers Dive Centre.

With its ideal form, the bay is very well protected from the wind and waves and so it is almost possible to dive here throughout the year, even when the stronger winds in spring makes it impossible to dive at some other places.

Euro-Divers have been managing the centre in Utopia since 2015. Euro-Divers, founded more than 40 years ago, has a reputation for the highest safety, quality and service in the diving industry. Our experienced, multi-national diving team fulfills the needs of our guests to the highest level.

Whether taking a shore entry or zodiac/boat trip, you will experience the best that the Red Sea has to offer and still be home in time for a sundowner drink at the Diver’s Bar. The dive centre is open all year and during our opening times, divers can go guided or independently in buddy teams for their dives. The option of early morning or night dives extends the possibilities for our guests, and offers them the flexibility to shape their diving holidays individually. Diving courses follow PADI standards and our multi-lingual instructors can teach from beginner courses right up to technical courses in five languages.

Protecting our reef goes without saying. In order to provide an easy, reef-friendly access from the beach area, we have established entry/exit areas and marked them clearly so that snorkelling and diving enthusiasts know where not to step and help us protect the reef area.

As well as the house reef, the area around the hotel has many more dive sites on offer.

By bus or by boat, we can reach more than ten other nearby dive spots between 30 minutes up to one-and-a-half hour distance from our hotel. Especially here in the south we have places where we can see dugongs, oceanic reef sharks or big green turtles – the hotel Utopia makes the perfect spot to stay and also visit some of the best dive sites like Marsa Mubarak, Abu Dabab, Elphinstone or Fughanie. n

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PRESENTS A GUIDE TO THE

SULTANATE OF OMAN

5 THINGS YOU MUST DO IN OMAN

FROM MUSANDAM TO MUSCAT

DIVE HOTSPOTS THROUGHOUT THE COUNTRY

5 THINGS YOU MUST DO IN OMAN

1 2 3

Dive the Daymaniyat Islands

Oman’s undoubted underwater jewels are the national nature reserve of the Daymaniyat Islands, a collection of ten barren, windswept islands spread over a reasonable distance offshore from the mainland. They are swarming with marine life and are smothered with soft and hard corals.

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Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

A visit to the Sultan’s Grand Mosque in Muscat is a must, as the sheer size and ornate architecture of the building is simply stunning. It has the highest minaret in Oman – standing tall at 90 metres – and is so beautiful you could spend hours here just gazing at the artwork.

Head off on a desert safari

Venture to the rolling dunes of the Wahiba Sands and the amazing Wadi Bank Khalid. A professional driver/guide will take you by 4x4 past the Hajar Mountains to the wadi (river canyon) where you can swim in the crystal-blue pools, enjoy a picnic under the palms, or visit a Bedouin camp and ride a camel.

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Explore the Musandam

The Musandam Peninsula can be dived from a dayboat, but you can also explore it on liveaboards offering three, four, five, six or seven day trips accessing some of the more-remote areas. Whalesharks and manta rays can often be sighted near the Strait of Hormuz, and guitarsharks and leopard sharks are regularly seen as well.

Learn the history of Oman

Delve into the rich history of the Sultanate of Oman at the Museum of the Frankincense Land. A combination of marine history, trading and ancient beliefs and religions, there is also an archaeological park when you can explore an active dig uncovering the previous harbour and castle.

Starting November 11, 2017

Oman offers pristine reefs,

stunning deserts, rugged mountain landscapes, green oasis, endless beaches and friendly people. The northern route explores large coral reefs in the deep fjords of the Musandam Peninsula. Dramatic drop-offs offer an incredible diversity from spectacular macro life to stunning whale sharks. The Daymaniyat Islands, off the coast of Muscat, are home to wrecks and lush reefs that are crawling with rays, eels and sharks. Hallaniyat, in the south, is a rugged region, undiscovered by many divers. Manta rays, pods of dolphin and a variety of whales can be seen off the coast of Mirbat.

More than 1,000 different types of fish and shellfish call the Arabian Sea and Gulf of Oman home. Marine parks ensure that this valuable treasure is protected. Reserve your Oman Aggressor vacation today!

$1,000 Introductory Special - Oman Aggressor FOUR UNIQUE ITINERARIES Musandam Peninsula (7 nights) Daymaniyat Islands (7 nights) Daymaniyat & Hallaniyat Islands (10 nights) Hallaniyat Islands (7 nights)

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DIVINGOVERVIEW

The Sultanate of Oman is an unusual country, in that it is actually split into two by the UAE. The majority of the country lies to the south of this ‘split’, running all the way down to Yemen in the south, and west to Saudi Arabia, but above the UAE you find the Musandam Peninsula, while covers the narrow channel at the mouth of the Persian Gulf. There is diving throughout both ‘sections’ of Oman, though with only a handful of dive centres covering thousands of miles of coastline, you can pretty much guarantee that the only other divers you will see underwater will be those on your boat.

Oman’s undoubted underwater jewels are the national nature reserve of the Daymaniyat Islands, a collection of ten barren, windswept islands spread over a reasonable distance offshore from the mainland, but other dive areas to consider include Bandar Khayran, where there are around 20 different dive sites for all levels of experience, and Fahal Island, which offers 11 dive sites that all feature an abundance of pelagic marine life.

The Musandam Peninsula can be dived from a dayboat, but you can also explore it on liveaboards offering three, four, five, six or seven day trips accessing some of the more-remote areas. Whalesharks and manta rays can often be sighted near the Strait of Hormuz, and guitarsharks and leopard sharks are regularly seen as well.

Coral growth is phenomenal because of the nutrient-rich waters, and while this can impact on visibility, it is worth it for how healthy the reef is.

The Sultanate of Oman is not yet a tourist hotspot - and long may it remain this way. It really does give you the opportunity to experience the ‘real’ Middle East away from rampant commercialism, cheap package deals and dubious all-inclusive hotels.

The people are very friendly, and genuinely pleased to welcome you to their country, and with just a handful of dive centres covering the entire coastline, it is rare that you will encounter other divers in the water. Weather conditions are excellent, though be warned it does get very hot during the summer months, and because of the strength of the Omani rial, it isn’t the cheapest place on the planet, but there aren’t many locations where you can get that real ‘explorer’ feel of heading off the beaten track - and this is one of them. n

MALDIVES

REEFDIVING Oman’s undoubted underwater jewels are the national nature reserve of the Daymaniyat Islands. This collection of ten barren, windswept islands are spread over a reasonable distance offshore from the mainland and boast amazing coral growth, particularly hard varieties such as table corals. On certain sites, there are so many massive examples of these, easily reaching four to five metres plus across, that they interlock, and you can rotate 360 degrees and see endless ‘racks’ of table corals.

Simply stunning.

Highlight dive sites in the Daymaniyats are Aquarium, Garden of Eden, Three Sisters and Hayut Run. The former actually more than lives up to its name, and there are so many shoals of snapper, groups of Arabian and Emperor angelfish, hordes of long- and short-fin batfish, honeycomb morays, anemonefish and turtles that you actually feel like you are in a giant aquarium. The other sites offer up treats like mating cuttlefish, leopard sharks and yet more turtles, plus fleeting glimpses of blacktip reef sharks.

However, it isn’t just the marine life that makes the Daymaniyats so great, the underwater topography is also unique. As well as swathes of hard and soft corals, interspersed with vibrant sponges, some of the rock formations are simply stunning. Swim-throughs, overhangs, nooks and crannies all help make the reef itself interesting, regardless of what swims or crawls into your path.

Other dive areas to consider include Bandar Khayran, where there are around 20 different dive sites for all levels of experience, from shallow, quiet bays for first dives to more adrenaline-pumping drift and wreck dives for the more-advanced diver, and Fahal Island, which offers 11 dive sites that all feature, due to its currents and steep walls, an abundance of pelagic marine life, including reef sharks, rays, barracuda, tuna and jacks. Soft and hard corals are profuse, and the shoals of reef fish are impressive.

Whether you dive the Musandam Peninsula from a dayboat or a liveaboard, you can be guaranteed some awesome diving conditions. Many divers from Dubai make the trek to the Musandam because the diving is so good. The walls are smothered in coral growth, stimulated by the upwelling of nutrients that swirl through the waters, and while this does mean that the visibility is not as good as in the nearby Red Sea, it is worth enduring as the reef is so healthy, plus it means you have the chance of encountering whalesharks and manta rays in the Strait of Hormuz. Other species such as guitar sharks and leopard sharks are regularly too. n

PRESENTS A GUIDE TO

EILAT

RED SEA PIONEERS FIND OUT WHERE IT ALL STARTED

REEFS & WRECKS

PROTECT

THE REEF

EXPLORE THE CORAL REEF MARINE RESERVE

FOR ALL NOVICE OR VETERAN, EILAT'S GOT YOU COVERED

DIVINGOVERVIEW Israel’s southernmost city, Eilat, was the birthplace of diving in the Red Sea, and pioneered the whole diving resort concept.

Although Israel only has a short coastal area, it has crammed numerous dive sites into what section of the Red Sea it does have, and so divers will find sites suitable for all levels of diver, from raw novice to hardened veteran technical diver.

Eilat is well known as a great place to get your initial diving qualifications, as it is easy to get to, has accommodation for all budgets, and plenty of dive centres. The water is warm and clear all year round, and the reefs and wrecks are heavily populated with all the usual Red Sea marine life, including angelfish, anthias, lionfish, pufferfish, moray eels, bannerfish, butterflyfish, crocodilefish, damselfish, wrasse, parrotfish and many more. Turtles, trevallies and jacks also put in an appearance occasionally. n

REEF&WRECKDIVING Eilat provides easy access to a wide range of dive sites, both shore-based and boat dives, in depths to suit all levels of diver, from shallow reefs and wrecks for newbies, to deeper walls, reefs and shipwrecks that are excellent for advanced and technical divers.

The Satil is a navy missile vessel that now sits in 24m, with the shallowest sections reaching to 12m. There are several areas where divers can penetrate into the wreck, and the bridge still contains the skipper’s seat and wheel, so perfect for photographers. It is smothered in marine life, including fusiliers, grouper, snapper, parrotfish, lionfish, sweeper and pipefish.

A short distance from the Satil shipwreck is Paradise Reef, which drops down to more than 30m and is a healthy coral reef playing host to vast amounts of Red Sea fish, particularly anthias and chromis, and you can also find cleaner shrimp, octopus and nudibranchs.

Yatush is a small wreck sat upright in 30m and well colonised by marine life, including anthias, lionfish, moray eels, parrotfish, cleaner wrasse and scorpionfish. Limited penetration is possible, into the hold and wheelhouse.

Japanese Gardens is one of the most-popular and well-known reef dives in Eilat, and lie in the Coral Beach Nature Reserve. It is a wall dive which drops to well below recreational diving depths and is characterised by dense growth of soft and hard corals, sponges and gorgonian fans. Another dive in the Coral Beach Nature Reserve is Moses Rock, which is heavily populated by all manner of reef fish and invertebrates, and being in only 8m, is suitable for all levels of diver – even snorkellers can enjoy this particularly colourful site.

The Caves is a network of passageways threading their way through a large coral formation, though many of the smaller, tighter passages have been closed off with mesh grates to prevent any more coral damage. The focal point of the dive is a large archway that is always full of a dense shoal of hatchetfish. It is also very popular for night dives.

The University is a unique dive site where visitors can see first-hand efforts by local marine biologists to grow new corals and help repopulate areas of damaged reef. It is worth looking out into the blue for the occasional passing tuna or other pelagic fish.

A deeper dive that is also designed to promote and stimulate new coral growth is the Pyramid. Divers will find Dubak’s Pyramid, a large metal structure rising from below 30m to some 15m from the surface, which was placed on the bottom as part of an experiment into creating a new reef, and is now well covered in soft corals, sponges and encrusting marine life.

Another unusual dive site is Statue Garden, where four large metal statues created by artist Dan Rapaport were sunk to create an artificial reef. Three of the four statues now lie on their sides as a result of winter storms, but still provide an interesting habitat for marine life, which includes rays, flounder and all the usual coral reef inhabitants. n

Middle Eastern

Dream Diving Take to the warm dive waters surrounding the arid desert locations of Jordan and Oman for superb snorkelling and diving.

Perfect for new and experienced divers Exclusive liveaboard departures Beautiful untouched reefs Exciting wreck dives Turtles, rays and whales Explore the topside history and culture

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20/09/2017 15:01

PRESENTS A GUIDE TO

SUDAN THE UMBRIA THE WORLD'S GREATEST SHIPWRECK?

FOLLOW IN

COUSTEAU'S

FOOTSTEPS

EXPLORE THE REMAINS OF THE PRECONTINENT II EXPERIMENT

DIVINGOVERVIEW Sudan has been in the media over the past few years for all the wrong reasons, with internal conflicts causing thousands of refugees to flee from the fighting into neighbouring countries. However, what many do not realise is that way to the north – far away from any unrest – lies Port Sudan, the gateway to some of the best diving in the Red Sea. One of the highlights of diving in Sudanese waters is the fact that there are just a handful of liveaboards operating in the area, so you will never find yourself on a dive site surrounded by a multitude of other dive boats. Quite often, the only divers you will see underwater will be the fellow passengers off your liveaboard.

This lack of diver tourism means that the marine life is prolific, particularly the bigger stuff. Manta rays, numerous shark species and turtles are commonplace, and the sheer number of reef fish is stunning.

The coral growth is equally impressive at sites such as Sha’ab Rumi, Sanganeb and Angarosh.

But perhaps the major highlight of Sudanese diving is the wrecks.

The 150-metre Italian freighter Umbria is perhaps the world’s finest shipwreck, lying on its port side in just 32m of water and fully intact, complete with a cargo of 360,000 plus bombs, a huge collection of wine bottles, and three Fiat Lunga cars still in the holds.

Then there are the remnants of Jacques Cousteau’s underwater living experiment Precontinent II. While most of the habitat was removed at the end of the experiment, there are still several recognisable elements left, notably the urchin-shaped ‘hangar’ for the team submersible, and various coral-encrusted sheds, fish cages and frameworks.

Just getting to Sudan can be a bit of an adventure, which all adds to the excitement of heading somewhere that is truly off the tourist trail. A few boats venture down to run Sudan itineraries from Egyptian waters, but most depart and return to Port Sudan. n

WRECKDIVING

Sudan may not be that well known on the international diving circuit, but it is home to perhaps the world’s finest shipwreck – the Umbria.

This 150-metre Italian freighter is lying on its port side in just 32-38m of water at Wingate Reef and fully intact, complete with a cargo of 360,000 plus aerial bombs, detonators, rolls of electrical cable, wooden boxes, storage jars, bags of cement (now cement blocks), a huge collection of intact and sealed wine bottles, and three Fiat 1100 Lunga cars still in the holds. As it was scuttled by its captain as Italy entered the war in June 1940, to prevent the Allies getting hold of the munitions on board, it is like a time capsule to the past. As well as the explosive cargo, you can explore the gigantic engine room, complete with tools in-situ in a fully equipped workshop, and the kitchen, where there are pizza ovens and a dough mixer. It is astounding to dive on a wreck of this scale where pretty much everything is where it was the day it sank.

As it has been down for such a long time, it is smothered in soft coral growth as well, and is home to various reef dwellers, both fish and invertebrates – and sometimes you can be buzzed by a large tiger shark when you are doing your safety stop.

That is not all. There are also the remnants of Jacques Cousteau’s month-long underwater living experiment Precontinent II (also known as Conshelf II) at Sha’ab Rumi.

Various structures were built in Europe and then transported to Sudan in 1963, to be placed on the bottom and held in place by steel cables and some 200 tons of lead.

Sadly, the Starfish House where the eight-man team lived, and the Submersible Cabin, where two divers spent a week at a time, were removed at the end of the experiment, but there are still several recognisable elements left, notably the urchin-shaped ‘hangar’ for the team submersible, and various coral-encrusted sheds, fish cages and frameworks. Like the Umbria, you feel privileged to be stepping back in time.

Another interesting shipwreck is the 103-metre-long Blue Belt, also known as the Blue Bell, and occasionally as the Toyota Wreck, on account of its cargo of vehicles.

This general cargo vessel was sailing from Jeddah in Saudi Arabia to Port Sudan with a load of cars and trucks in December 1977 when it struck the reef some 75km north of its intended destination.

For many years it lay upside down on the reef wall, with the shallowest section in 30m plus, and the deeper parts down beyond 60m. Winter storms in the last few years shifted the vessel, which now lies from 70m to over 100m, making it one for technical divers only.

However, many of the vehicles which were part of a salvage attempt and ended up scattered on the reef in shallower water are still there, and make for an interesting dive. n

REEFDIVING

A distinct lack of diver tourism, especially compared with near-neighbours Egypt, Israel and Jordan, means that the reefs and walls in Sudan are in exceptionally good condition, with swathes of pristine growth providing a rich habitat for reef dwellers, which in turn means you get lots of predators.

Manta rays, numerous shark species and turtles are commonplace, as are trevally, tuna, barracuda, jacks and so on. Virtually every reef in Sudan is simply stunning due to its lack of visitors, but below are a few stand-outs even in this diverse area.

There was a reason that Jacques Cousteau chose Sha’ab Rumi as the location of his Precontinent II underwater living experiment – it is literally teeming with life. The remnants of the experiment make for interesting viewing, but the surrounding reef boasts all manner of marine life, including sharks, other pelagics and even dolphins on occasion, and you can also encounter bumphead parrotfish grazing on the seabed in big shoals.

Another highlight is Sanganeb. This reef is very reminiscent of Daedalous, in that it is a large reef rising from the depths that is topped by a lighthouse. Also like its northern cousin, the walls are alive with soft corals and gorgonians, and the chances of encountering bigger critters like hammerhead sharks, grey reef sharks and such like are very high.

Abington Reef boasts some superb wall dives as well as a plateau swirling with massive shoals of jacks and trevally. The chances of seeing turtles here are good, as they seem to favour the area.

Angarosh – which in Arabic roughly translates as ‘Mother of Sharks’ – can more than live up to its reputation, with multiple species of shark often being sited out in the blue surrounding the deep-water reef. There is a plateau at 25m and another down at 45m, and currents can sometimes be challenging, but this is certainly a dive that should be on your ‘to-do’ list. n

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