Scuba Diver Destinations #5 by scubadivermag

CARIBBEAN WRECKS FIRST OF TWO REPORTS LOOKING AT THE BEST WRECKS IN THE REGION

AFRICAN ADVENTURE AL HORNSBY GETS UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH CROCODILES

NEED FOR SPEED

CHANNEL DIVING IN THE MALDIVES WITH AN APOLLO SCOOTER

DAVID JONES IS ENTRANCED EXPLORING FLORIDA’S CRYSTAL RIVER THAILAND

GARMIN DESCENT MK2i

DIVING NEWS

MEET THE TEAM

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Mark Evans Email: mark@scubadivermag.com EDITOR-AT-LARGE (North America) Walt Stearns Email: walt@scubadivermag.com DESIGN & PRODUCTION MANAGER Matt Griffiths Email: matt@scubadivermag.com ADVERTISING & SPONSORSHIP Ross Arnold Email: ross@scubadivermag.com CONTRIBUTORS Al Hornsby, David Jones, Mike Bartick, Stuart Philpott

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Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily the views of the publishers. Copyright for material published remains with Rork Media Limited. Use of material from Destinations is strictly prohibited unless permission is given. All advertisements of which the creative content is in whole or in part the work of Rork Media Limited remain the copyright of Rork Media Limited. ISSN: 2633-3902

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A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR

Rebreat hers and blackwater diving somet hing old, somet hing new

ften times when I am out on a local dive, inadvertently I get asked by another diver after eyeing my KISS Classic CCR securely bungeed in on the dive boat’s bench seats ‘are you a tech diver?’ At the risk of sounding flippant, I answer ‘not really, I just use tech to dive the way I want too’. When I started diving closed circuit some 18 years ago, most recreational divers saw these over-the-top complicated beasties as something new to scuba diving, Truth of the matter, CCR predates modern open circuit breathing apparatus by decades. Recently I got the opportunity to try a new type of rebreather, an electrically controlled closed-circuit chest-mounted model made by Dive Rite. The O2ptima CM – it will feature in a future Test Extra in Destinations - is a new take on one of the oldest forms of rebreathers (the chest mount) for diving purposes with a few interesting twists. The most-underlying feature is that here is a unit that can be used with a wide number of conventional open circuit scuba rigs, thereby presenting a different bridge to cross to enter the world of silent diving without the need to completely switch over to a CCR system that will feel entirely alien. Changing gears to another type of diving, the question I pose is ‘who hasn’t heard of blackwater diving’? Okay, so if you haven’t heard of it, it’s night diving out in really deep water where, devoid of seeing the bottom, you spend your time searching for marine life that happens to be really, really small. There are three types of diver when it comes to go blackwater diving for the very first time. The ‘no, no, definitely not for me!’ – easily identified as they’re the ones back on the boat well before the dive is over. ‘Been there, done that’ – while they might have found the dive itself a new experience, their interest to pursue it further remains to be seen. And last, but not least, there is ‘That was f&#king awesome! When’s the next one?’ No interpretation needed there. To understand what there is to see and how it’s done, we have put something very special together on this newest trend in diving. And that’s not saying that what else we have here in this issue is any less exciting, like scooter diving the channels in the Maldives, or looking up which wrecks in the Caribbean are the best ones to dive. Plus, there are a few stimulating tidbits like snorkeling with manatees in Florida’s Crystal River, an overview of some of the top dive sites in Thailand, and a hand’s-on review of the Garmin Descent MK2i. Enjoy the issue. And remember, every day is a day to see, explore and even try something new.

Walt Stearns, Editor-at-Large (North America)

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CARIBBEAN WRECKS FIRST OF TWO REPORTS LOOKING AT THE BEST WRECKS IN THE REGION

AFRICAN ADVENTURE AL HORNSBY GETS UP CLOSE AND PERSONAL WITH CROCODILES

NEED FOR SPEED

CHANNEL DIVING IN THE MALDIVES WITH AN APOLLO SCOOTER

DAVID JONES IS ENTRANCED EXPLORING FLORIDA’S CRYSTAL RIVER THAILAND

GARMIN DESCENT MK2i

DIVING NEWS

Cover & Spine.indd 1

16/02/2021 18:55

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF WALT STEARNS

GET ONLINE! CAN’T WAIT FOR YOUR NEXT ISSUE OF SCUBA DIVER DESTINATIONS? THEN LOG ON TO THE WEBSITE: WWW.SCUBADIVERDESTINATIONS.COM You’ll find all the latest diving news from around the world, in-depth travel reports, unbiased and comprehensive equipment reviews, hints and advice on diving techniques, underwater photography and videography, insights into diving medical issues, articles on conservation initiatives, Q&As with industry icons and legends, exciting competitions, and much, much more

NEWS IN BRIEF

Mehgan HeaneyGrier launches The Imperfect Conservationist web series, Guy Harvey announces scholarship program, underwater photographer Paul Nicklen becomes an Ambassador for Aqua Lung, and TEKDiveUSA is postponed again due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

THE CARIBBEAN

Kicking off a two-part series, wreck fan Stuart Philpott trawls through his extensive archives to showcase some of the best wreck dives in the Caribbean, including the Hilma Hooker in Bonaire, the Superior Producer in Curacao, the Antilla in Aruba and the Stavronikita in Barbados.

DIVERS ALERT NETWORK

The team from Divers Alert Network focus their attention on the human ear, and in this article, examine ear anatomy, aural hygiene, and various forms of equalisation techniques.

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INSIDE THIS ISSUE

BLACKWATER DIVING

Editor-at-Large (North America) Walt Stearns and Mike Bartick delve into the world of open ocean diving by night, and offer some hints and advice on the art of blackwater diving. They also highlight blackwater diving hotspots off the Florida coastline and in the nutrient-rich waters off the Philippines.

THAILAND

THE MALDIVES

Well-travelled photo-journalist Al Hornsby takes readers on a whistlestop tour of some of Thailand’s mostfamous diving areas, which are home to everything from weirdand-wonderful macro critters to pelagics such as mantas and whalesharks.

Channel dives are one of the most-exhilarating things you can do in the Maldives, battling epic currents to see schools of sharks and other pelagic predators, but as Editorin-Chief Mark Evans explains, throw a powerful scooter into the mix, and you have all the ingredients for a massive amount of fun.

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AGGRESSOR ADVENTURES: SOCORRO

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

GEAR TEST EXTRA

First in a new series of columns in which we focus on a particular diving destination, listing the top five dive sites you absolutely must do when you are there, as well as handy hints and advice, and all you need to know about the Aggressor Adventures’ vessel serving that area.

David Jones is entranced by the manatees of Crystal River, and says it is an experience that everyone should have at least once in their lifetime.

Scuba Diver Destinations Editor-in-Chief Mark Evans gets his hands on one of the most-anticipated new releases on to the dive market - the Garmin Descent MK2i dive computer - and rates and reviews it after extensive diving in both warm and cold water. He also looks at how it stacks up against its closest rival, the much-lauded Shearwater Research Teric.

NEWS IN BRIEF CAPTAIN CHARGED OVER CALIFORNIA BOAT FIRE DEATHS

MEHGAN HEANEY-GRIER LAUNCHES THE IMPERFECT CONSERVATIONIST Freediver, adventurer, TV presenter and producer Mehgan Heaney-Grier has launched a new web series entitled The Imperfect Conservationist, with new episodes each Thursday. Mehgan said: “I created The Imperfect Conservationist to bring you a weekly dose of what I like to call ‘conservation empowerment’ – an understanding of how and what you can do to make a positive impact on the world around you, right now. “I have simple criteria for the changes I implement in my life… they must be at least two (ideally all three) of the following – easy, affordable and impactful. “Living more sustainably does not mean you have to do it all, or do it perfectly – and ultimately, the changes that make the biggest impact are the ones that we will actually do.” She added: “Subscribe to my YouTube Channel for weekly episodes of The Imperfect Conservationist! Together we’ll investigate, review, and share bite-sized, achievable ways you can easily bake conservation and sustainability into your busy day-to-day life.”

DIVERS ALERT NETWORK LAUNCHES 2021 WEBINAR SERIES Divers Alert Network (DAN) has launched a new series of live monthly webinars on its YouTube channel, DAN TV. Throughout 2021, experts from DAN’s Research, Risk Mitigation and Medical Services teams will give presentations on topics relevant to divers, dive pros and dive business owners as we look beyond the COVID-19 pandemic and resume diving and traveling. The 2021 series kicked off with a webinar titled Emergency Planning: Who Is Responsible for Your Safety? Future webinars in the series will cover topics including fill station safety, ear barotrauma, DAN research updates, the latest information about COVID-19 and diving, and more. Attendees can look forward to lively 30- to 45-minute presentations followed by questions and discussion. The webinars will be held on the third Thursday of each month. Keep an eye on the Events page of DAN.org. Recorded presentations will remain on DAN’s YouTube Channel.

The captain of the Conception dive charter vessel has been charged with 34 counts of seaman’s manslaughter over the tragic boat fire last year. Each charge of seaman’s manslaughter carries up to ten years in federal prison. On 1 December, a grand jury cited three federal safety violations by 67-year-old Jerry Nehl Boylan – failure to assign a night watch or roving patrol, to conduct sufficient crew training, or to conduct adequate fire drills – and claimed that the captain caused the deaths of those onboard his vessel ‘by his misconduct, negligence and inattention to his duties’. “As a result of the alleged failures of Captain Boylan to follow well-established safety rules, a pleasant holiday dive trip turned into a hellish nightmare as passengers and one crew member found themselves trapped in a fiery bunkroom with no means of escape,” said United States Attorney Nick Hanna. “The loss of life that day will forever impact the families of the 34 victims. With this indictment and our commitment to vigorously prosecute the case, we seek a small measure of justice for the victims and their loved ones.” All 33 passengers and a crew member sleeping below deck died in the fierce blaze that took hold of the 75-foot Conception in the early hours of 2 September 2019 as it was moored up in Platt’s Harbor near Santa Cruz Island, off Santa Barbara. Crew members sleeping above decks were able to escape the flames by leaping into the sea. An investigation by the US National Transportation Safety Board found that the fire started in a middle deck area, where lithium-ion batteries were being charged. However, the report said it was unclear exactly what had caused the fire to ignite. Boylan is expected to surrender to authorities at a later date. He has not publicly commented on the charges.

GUY HARVEY ANNOUNCES INAUGURAL SCHOLARSHIP PROGRAM The Guy Harvey Ocean Foundation has gone public with the names of the recipients of its inaugural scholarship program, Legacy. The Nova Southeastern University scholarships are a four-year plan at Florida University, and are offered to Florida resident graduating high school seniors by the Guy Harvey Ocean Foundation and the Florida Prepaid College Foundation. The scholarship is primarily aimed at those with a passion for marine science who plan to attend Nova Southeastern University. The four freshmen winners of the 2021 scholarship are Nicole Castro, a biology major from Miami; Diana Phillips, a marine biology major from Largo; Amar Singh, an education and computer science major from Plantation; and Chad Walker, a public health science major from Loxahatchee.

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NEWS IN BRIEF SKELETAL REMAINS FOUND ON PIRATE SHIP OFF CAPE COD Famed explorer Barry Clifford has discovered skeletal remains on the wreck of the Whydah – the world’s only authenticated pirate ship – which lies off Cape Cod. Clifford, who has been involved in the search and discovery of many renowned vessels, was working with an investigative team at the Whydah Pirate Museum in West Yarmouth. The Whydah was a 300-tonne, 102-foot-long state-of-theart ship that was built in England in 1715. It boasted 18 cannon and would have been a formidable sight. It sank in April 1717 when it was caught in a violent storm off Cape Cod. Only two of the 146 crew on board managed to reach land alive. The ship was initially discovered back in 1984, and the remains of at least six skeletons have been identified in several large concretions which were examined back on land. The bones were found inside the concretions when they were x-rayed. These concretions are now on display at the museum, but you can also see it on their website: www.discoverpirates.com

PAUL NICKLEN JOINS AQUA LUNG AS GLOBAL OCEAN AMBASSADOR

WEST PALM BEACH GAINS NEW ARTIFICIAL REEF SYSTEM

Aqua Lung has announced world-renowned wildlife photographer and conservationist Paul Nicklen is joining the brand as a Global Ocean Ambassador. Nicklen, best-known for his incomparable underwater photography and ocean conservation efforts, will utilize the full range of industry-leading Aqua Lung, Apeks and O.ME.R. products from wetsuits, masks and fins to technical gear and regulators. Helping to grow the brand globally, Nicklen joins an elite roster of ambassadors at Aqua Lung, including Philippe Cousteau Jr, Ashlan Gorse Cousteau and Greg Lecoeur. “From day one, the Aqua Lung family has been kind and unwavering in their support of our mission to build community and restore the health and abundance of our oceans,” said Nicklen. “Personally, I love the simplicity and quality of the Aqua Lung products and I’m grateful the entire SeaLegacy team gets to use them. Most importantly, the products are reliable and give me the ability to focus on filming and being a photographer and conservationist.” Paul Nicklen is a Canadian photographer and marine biologist specializing in the polar regions and their wildlife. Nicklen has completed more than 20 assignments for National Geographic and in 2014, co-founded SeaLegacy, a non-profit organization that propelled ocean conservation onto the world stage through the power of visual storytelling, impact campaigns and the funding of sustainability projects. To learn more or to see Nicklen’s work, go to paulnicklen. com. For more information about Aqua Lung products, visit: AquaLung.com

The Ocean Rescue Alliance has teamed up with West Palm Beach county to place a new artificial reef system called 1,000 Mermaids, comprising of 55 concrete modules. The modules, which vary in shape and size, are made from marine-friendly concrete, and have been under construction since last year. The reef modules weigh anywhere between 1,700lb to 3,500lb, and have been set on the seabed in just 40ft of water, where they will provide a habitat for fish and other reef dwellers.

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TEKDIVEUSA THE LATEST VICTIM OF COVID-19 The TEKDiveUSA conference that was scheduled to take place in April 2021 has been postponed, the latest victim of the COVID-19 pandemic. It had already been moved once after the 2020 dates were cancelled due to the pandemic. The biennial advanced and technical diving event, which comprises an exhibition, a conference and a gala awards dinner, will now be rescheduled yet again, but as yet, a new date has not been announced. In a statement on the TEKDiveUSA website, it said: “TEKDiveUSA has been monitoring the evolving situation on coronavirus both in the US and around the globe. Due to the public health emergency we are currently facing, we believe that it is not possible to move forward with TEKDiveUSA.2020 as planned. All exhibition spaces, sponsorships, attendee tickets will be honored at the rescheduled Conference.”

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Stuart Philpott has dived around many Caribbean islands, and he has trawled through his archives to bring this two part round-up of some of the best shipwrecks in the region Photography Stuart Philpott

The 236-feet-long Hilma Hooker lies at a max depth of 95ft. Her intriguing story made international headlines. She lost all engine power and was towed to the main town pier. During a routine search 25,000lb of marijuana was found hidden behind a false bulkhead

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The Caribbean is chock full of shipwrecks of all shapes and sizes. Many of them are genuine shipwrecks from martitime incidents, but several islands have also purpose-sunk shipwrecks as marine-life habitats and as attractions for scuba divers.

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PREVIOUS PAGE The Hilma Hooker bow. RIGHT Diver exploring a small wreck on the Front Porch dive site. BOTTOM RIGHT The prop on the Hilma Hooker. BELOW Hilma Hooker shipwreck.

he Caribbean Sea has claimed many ships over the years, some purposely sunk as artificial reef projects, while others have faced a more-tragic demise, victims of harsh weather, war, illicit activities or plain and simple human error. I have outlined the best wrecks dives on eight different Caribbean islands, with a few pictures thrown in for good measure. Bear in mind that some of these pictures were taken several years ago, so due to the corrosive nature of the sea, there may be a few changes in appearance.

Bonaire

My journey begins in the Dutch Caribbean, and in particular the island of Bonaire, which is probably the most-popular diving island in the ABCs. Completely geared up for shore diving, there are 63 sites located all around the island (mostly southwest coast), all clearly marked with yellow stones. Steps, railings and concrete platforms make entries and exits hassle free. Divers usually rent a truck and just park up and dive. Local guides are not necessary. Dive boats are also

available for offshore sites such as Klein Bonaire, where seahorses reside. Bonaire has two main wrecks on offer, one for recreational divers and another lesser-known site for techies. The 236-feet-long Hilma Hooker lies at a max depth of 95ft. Her intriguing story made international headlines. She lost all engine power and was towed to the main town pier. During a routine search 25,000lb of marijuana was found hidden behind a false bulkhead. Legal proceedings took months to organise. For some strange reason, the ship’s owner didn’t come forward to answer questions! Whether it was due to damage caused by the search, or just poor maintenance, she was far from seaworthy. Pumps were working at full capacity just to keep her afloat. Port authorities consulted with local dive operators and towed her out to a suitable anchorage point. On 12 September 1984, the Hilma Hooker disappeared beneath the waves forever. She now lies on her starboard side, with the cargo holds and bridge area easily accessible. Winches and masts are adorned with huge purple, white and red tube sponges. Although penetration is possible, it is not recommended. The freighter wasn’t sunk as

Winches and masts are adorned with huge purple, white and red tube sponges. Although penetration is possible, it is not recommended

Rocky road...

Yellow painted rocks on the side of the road or along the coast mark the dive sites on Bonaire. These yellow rocks can also indicate ‘do not enter’. This is because, for example, it is a marine reserve that does not allow snorkelers or divers.

Bonaire is considered the ‘shore diving capital of the world’. More than 50 shore diving sites ring the coastline, and many diving packages include a pick-up truck. So you just need to load your gear and go, picking out which sites suit you best along the way.

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Front Porch is not known for its coral reefs but for its scrap! The bottom is littered with steel pipes, wreck parts and old machinery. Strangely enough, it attracts a wide variety of marine life: Scorpionfish, tube worms, soap fish, large grouper, moray eels and more.

HIGHLY PROTECTED

Bonaire is a highly protected environment. More than 20 percent of its total land mass and 100 percent of the waters surrounding Bonaire and Klein Bonaire are national parks and are therefore protected.

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Bonaire offers scuba diving 24/7, 365 days a year and in a pristine underwater environment with access to many locations for shore and boat diving, it is an award-winning diving destination that accommodates every skill level, from beginner to advanced diver.

an artificial reef project, so doors, pipe work and other obstructions can easily snag divers. Best photo opportunities are around by the huge propeller, which is swathed in orange cup corals. The Windjammer, aka Marie Bahn (1,315 tons) lies at a max depth of around 196ft. Divers usually wade into the shallows, clip on their stages and drop down the wall. The wreck lies parallel to the reef on its starboard side. While en-route to Marseille, she was caught in a raging storm. Huge, unforgiving seas drove her up against the reef. During the commotion her cargo of asphalt shifted in the hold. Some of the barrels broke open and escaping fumes ignited by a kerosene lamp caused a massive explosion. Although four men perished, Captain Luigi Rezeto and the remaining crew of 28 swam safely ashore, where they watched the burning ship list to port and finally disappear beneath the waves. Both forward and aft cargo holds are easily accessible. Most of the wooden decking was destroyed in the fire. A slender iron framework is all that remains. Molten asphalt has created an unusual lava flow pattern on the surrounding seabed. Eerie wire corals coat most of the outer hull. The crow’s nest on one of the remaining masts is a nice feature to explore, and it’s also worth venturing out to the bowsprit. Marine life encounters include a shoal of jacks and moray eels.

Curacao

Curacao is the largest of the ABC islands and has the biggest population. It’s approximately a 20-minute flight from Bonaire. There are 35 sandy beaches to choose from and most of the 70 dive sites are shore dives. The Superior Producer is Curacao’s best wreck dive. The only slight negative is the fact that she lies close to the busy harbor entrance, and is therefore subject to passing boat traffic. The cargo ship sits upright and reasonably intact at a maximum depth of 114ft. Wheelhouse and foredeck are at 78ft. A single mooring buoy is attached to the remains of her coral-encrusted foremast. It’s better to dive the wreck in the mornings, as by mid-afternoon there is a strong current. Divers swept of the wreck will quickly drift into the harbor entrance, which is not a good idea. Silt flushed out from the harbour can affect visibility. Water colour and turbidity can change from hues of blue at 100ft to a green tinge at 32ft. Most of the wreck is easily penetrable. Barracuda patrol the two cargo holds. Sergeant majors, snapper and soldierfish congregate around the stairwells and doorways. Vibrant orange cup corals literally coat the whole wheelhouse. The accompanying reef wall is perfect for safety stops, teeming with colorful marine life, including seahorses. Tugboat is located on the southeast side of Caracas Bay near the Aquarium. This shore dive is an absolute must for snorkellers and divers. Sunk in 1976, the 39-foot-long vessel lies upright at a max depth of 16ft. Shards of sunlight filter down from the surface, making the site perfect for photography. Big round brain corals sporadically grow over the decking. Parrotfish, angelfish and damsels are prolific. A steep wall, three minutes fin to the southeast, compliments the wreck site perfectly. This drops to around 100ft and is full of hard and soft corals. Most divers start their dive on the wall and then off-gas at the scenic wreck. Next to Ocean Encounters dive centre is the entry point for another tech site called Two Tugs, which as the title suggests, is two small tugs lying side by side. From the shore entry point, divers descend down a sandy gully to the drop-off where the wrecks lie below. The first tug was sunk as a diver attraction, but instead of settling at the planned depth of 32ft, it slid down the reef wall. Commercial divers followed the tug’s trail down to a narrow plateau at 180ft. They were surprised to find a second, unknown tug sitting right next to it. Both tugs are around 65 feet long, sitting upright on the sandy bottom. Only a small gap of six to eight feet separates the wrecks. At a depth of 32ft, there is a huge propeller lying flat on the reef floor. From this point it’s a vertical drop down to the wreck site. Underwater visibility is usually around 100 feet. Gray angels are frequently sighted, as well as moray eels.

It’s better to dive the wreck in the mornings, as by mid-afternoon there is a strong current

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Curacao is home to some of the most bio-diverse reefs in the Caribbean. The sheltered southern coast is rich in coral, and suitable for divers of all levels, with little in the way of adverse conditions at any of the popular dive sites.

WRECK HUNTERS SEASON ONE 2021

Calling would-be undersea detectives! The fringing reefs of Curacao are a macro paradise and a treasure trove of small marine life, including seahorses and cleaner shrimp.

A unique opportunity to take part in the beginning of a diving archaeology programme is opening up in the summer of 2021* on the Caribbean island of Utila. The Wreck Hunters project is offering a onemonth, limited availability window for divers to be a part of the Season One team. The focus this year is about getting to the heart of the story of a wreck called ‘The Oliver’, its rich history and the life of 18th Century mariners. Learn the skills of undersea archaeology, from traditional to cutting edge techniques. If you’re a relatively experienced diver with skills or experience in drawing (artistic or technical), surveying, photography or in construction work this could be just what you’re looking for (See website for full details). Project Director Mike Haigh’s ideal candidates have a ‘good sense of humour’ and enjoy teamwork. Check out www.wreckhunters.co.uk Or Telephone: +44 0117 9596454

HIKE TO THE SABA WRECK

The wreck of the Saba lies at a depth of 16ft upright between coral fields. Divers can reach this wreck only by boat because there is no road going here, but it is possible to hike here and then go snorkeling.

So if you think this project would help put a smile on your face, why not get in touch to find out more at

www.wreckhunters.co.uk info@wreckhunters.co.uk *COVID restrictions may result in a change of operation dates.

WreckHunters__US.indd 1

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19/01/2021 11:50

PLANE WRECKS

There are a number of plane wrecks, including a drug-smuggling Convair 400 sitting at 65ft.

Unfortunately, most of Aruba’s divers are relatively inexperienced, which dictates the dive sites visited. Rarely explored wrecks include the SS California, situated on the northern tip, classed as an advanced dive due to the fact that the site is exposed to big wave action and strong currents.

The most-popular wreck is the 393-foot-long, 4,400-ton Antilla, a World War Two U-boat tender built by Finkenwarder, at the Hamburg shipyards, in 1939

PREVIOUS TOP Coral growth smothers the wrecks. PREVIOUS BOTTOM Even submerged cars can be found on the reefs. PREVIOUS RIGHT Aerial view of the Saba wreck. ABOVE The Convair 400 airplane wreck. TOP RIGHT The Antilla. RIGHT Beach bars - the perfect place for an apres-dive beverage.

Aruba

Aruba is a lively island offering a huge selection of bars, restaurants and casinos. It’s also a regular stop over for cruise ships. Most of the 30 or so dive sites are boat dives. There are around 12 wrecks scattered along the west side of the island, with some in the north while others are further south. The most-popular wreck is the 393-foot-long, 4,400-ton Antilla, a World War Two U-boat tender built by Finkenwarder, at the Hamburg shipyards, in 1939. Her massive cargo holds were stacked full of torpedoes, mines, mechanical spares and other vital munitions. Aruba was deemed ‘neutral’ territory, so the Antilla was safely at anchor, but circumstances quickly changed and when Holland entered the war, military forces stormed the ship. Captain Schmidt was given just 24 hours to surrender. There was no way of avoiding capture as Allied warships were waiting offshore. On 10 May 1940, he gave orders to scuttle the freighter. Antilla’s steam turbines were flooded with water, causing a massive explosion that ripped the ship apart. Captain Schmidt and 46 crew members

escaped in lifeboats, only to be detained as POWs at Flamingo Divi on neighbouring Bonaire for the remainder of the war. She now lies on her port side at a max depth of 59ft. Part of her bridge still breaks the surface. Pelicans are often seen sunbathing on the salt-encrusted ironwork. Some 60 years of marine colonization has created an amazing artificial reef system. Orange tube sponges, tunicates and soft corals adorn the hull. Thousands of silversides take refuge inside the wreckage. This, in turn, attracts the predators. Jacks and barracuda are often seen sweeping among the shoals. Angelfish, trumpetfish, grunts, parrotfish and coral grouper are just a few of the many species encountered. Her cathedral-size cargo holds are well worth exploring. There are also some good areas for deep penetration, including the rudder room. A predominantly sandy seabed means visibility can reduce to around 30 feet (visibility is far better inside the wreck). The Antilla is also a popular site for snorkelers. The 354-feet-long SS Pedernales (3,945 tons) was the victim of a U-boat attack. A well-aimed torpedo struck her amidships. Although her back was broken by the explosion she miraculously remained afloat.

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Captain Herbert McCall and 18 of his crew managed to escape in the only remaining lifeboat. Tragically, eight men lost their lives. By morning the raging fire had burnt itself out. Two tugs managed to ground the drifting ship near Oranjestad. Engineers assessed the damage and deemed she was still salvageable. It took two solid weeks to cut out the mangled 124-foot section. A new compact version of the Pedernales was eventually put back into service. Later, she was used in the Normandy landings. The discarded midsection was towed over two miles out to sea and sunk. Quite fittingly, it lies close to the Antilla, a supply ship used by marauding U-boats. There are three main areas of wreckage to investigate. Although most is low lying, one section still breaks the surface. This is usually frequented by large shoals of French grunts. Macro photographers will have a field day as the whole site is teeming with marine life and lying at a maximum depth of 22ft-25ft, there is plenty of time for exploration. Frogfish are the main celebrities. The 249-foot-long cement freighter, Jane Sea, is probably the best of the southern wrecks. She lies at a max depth of 100ft with the bow around 49ft. A routine customs inspection uncovered a huge quantity of cocaine stashed in her cargo holds. She was impounded and then handed over to dive operators in 1988 There is plenty of wreckage and marine life to keep divers occupied. The seven-foot propeller is covered in orange cup corals. The stern quarters and galley are ideal for penetration.

SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE

Wrecks vary in depth from 16ft-130ft. When diving any of these sites, expect to see an underwater landscape full of soft corals. Off the northwest coast, there are gardens of seagrass for a nice change from wrecks.

Aruba’s dry season lasts from April to November. During these months, the island will be extremely dry and sunny, experiencing consistently calm weather. Sea conditions remain steady with temperatures at 85°F and air temperatures approximately 89°F.

Aruba is a lively island offering a huge selection of bars, restaurants and casinos. It’s also a regular stop over for cruise ships WWW.SCUBADIVERDESTINATIONS.COM

Barbados The visibility ranges from 40-70 feet and the water temperature is a consistent 80°F in the summer.

Barbados, located in the eastern Caribbean, has a laid-back tropical atmosphere, every night is party night. Laced with a rum punch or two, it can be extremely infectious! The St Lawrence Gap has so many bars and restaurants packed along a one mile stretch of road. Oistins fish fry is a ‘must do’ on either Friday or Saturday night. The local fishermen bring ashore their catch of the day and this goes from the weighing scales straight to the restaurants next door for grilling, frying or sushi. All 25 dive sites are boat dives; this includes ten wrecks mostly located on the protected west side of the island. The 360-foot-long SS Stavronikita is probably the best wreck dive. Russian named and Greek owned, the ship’s demise began way before her sinking as an artificial reef project in 1978. A fire started in the engine room, killing at least six of the crew. This was followed by a huge explosion that destroyed all means of communication. The ship drifted for two weeks, eventually ending up in Barbadian waters. She was towed into harbor and left there for more than a year due to wrangles over insurance before being sunk as a diver attraction. The wreck now sits upright on the seabed just a few hundred feet from shore. The ship should have sunk in shallower water, but the anchors

DIVE OPERATORS

There are several dive operators who will provide equipment, advice and guided tours to ensure your experience is enjoyable!

The wreck now sits upright on the seabed just a few hundred feet from shore

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PREVIOUS TOP The Stavronikita. PREVIOUS BOTTOM A typical Barbados dive boat gearing up ready for departure. RIGHT Coralencrusted prop. BOTTOM The Carlisle Bay wreck provides lots of great photographic opportunities.

FOLKESTONE MARINE PARK

Folkestone Marine Park features an artificial reef, purposefully formed by the sinking of the ship Stavronikita which rests in 120ft of water less than half a mile from the shore.

Barbados is highly dependent on the preservation of its coral reefs and fishing industry as an integral source of food, employment and leisurely activity throughout the country.

Carlisle Bay has to be the ‘Disneyland’ of wreck sites. It really is a playground for divers dragged just before the charges went off. The bow looms up as divers make their way down the mooring line. The entire foredeck (depth 75ft) is a forest of giant purple gorgonian sea fans. There are two prominent masts, cargo holds, bridge and accommodation block to explore. The huge prop is still attached at a depth of 130ft. Marine life encounters include turtles and moray eels to horse-eye jacks. Carlisle Bay has to be the ‘Disneyland’ of wreck sites. It really is a playground for divers. There are six wrecks in all, varying from 9ft to 49ft in depth. The names of the wrecks are Barge, Cornwallis, Berwyn, Bajan Queen, C-Trek and Eilon. They are all sitting close together, so it’s possible to swim from one to the other. The sandy bottom can sometimes get stirred up, but at the shallow depth, there is loads of ambient light and plenty of time for exploration on a single ali-80 cylinder. There can’t be many places in the world where you can explore six wrecks in one dive! Each wreck has its fair share of marine, life including French grunts, trumpetfish, blackbar soldierfish, blue-striped grunts, spotted morays, turtles and even eagle rays. There is another wreck located in the north. The Pamir is a 164-foot-long freighter sitting upright at a max depth of 65ft. Her V-shaped bow silhouetted against the anchor makes a really nice composition. n

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DIVERS ALERT NETWORK

DAN is an international non-profit medical and research organisation dedicated to the safety and health of divers. WWW.DIVERSALERTNETWORK.ORG

EAR ANATOMY, CARE AND EQUALIZATION

PART ONE: UNDERSTAND THE EARS FOR OPTIMAL HEALTH The Divers Alert Network team focus their attention on the human ear

ars are complex and incredible organs that do so much more than pick up sound. They enable orientation in space, everyday physical activities and social interactions. Because of their importance - especially in scuba diving - divers should prioritize ear health. Ear injuries are prevalent among scuba divers, and many incidents are preventable with proper knowledge and training. Ear equalization in particular is one of the most-important skills divers must master, and if it’s not done properly, serious long-term disability may result. Divers know a lot about proper care and equalization techniques, but additional tips and tidbits are always helpful.

Ear anatomy To optimize your equalization, it’s important to know the basics of ear anatomy. The external ear includes the pinna (the visible, external ear) and the ear canal, which leads to the eardrum. The eardrum separates the ear canal from the middle ear. Earwax is produced from glands located within the lining of the external ear (More on the importance of earwax in a bit). The middle ear cavity is within the temporal bone and lined with a thin layer of tissue that is like the tissue inside the nose and throat. Within the middle ear are three tiny bones that form a chain attached to the eardrum on one side and a structure called the oval window on the other. This middle ear space is filled with air at ambient pressure, and when outside pressure changes, the middle ear needs to be reequalized to the new ambient pressure. The ears are equalized through the Eustachian tubes, which connect the middle ear space to the throat. The inner ear includes the hearing organ (cochlea) and the balance organ (vestibule and semicircular canals). The cochlea and vestibule are the beginning of the auditory and vestibular nerves.

Good aural hygiene As ears are delicate tools used every day, they need to be kept properly clean. The correct way to clean an ear does not involve a cotton swab (Cotton swabs actually push earwax deeper into the ear). Some

people find it helpful to occasionally wash their ears with a bulb syringe filled with a soapy-waterhydrogen-peroxide solution. If you have trouble with swimmer’s ear (an infection of the ear canal), try using a mixture of half white vinegar and half rubbing alcohol to cleanse and dry the ear canal after each day of diving. While this may help with swimmer’s ear, a gentle rinse with freshwater after each dive may be all you need. Earwax accumulation is not necessarily a hygiene problem, and overzealous attempts to get rid of it can be as problematic as having too much. Earwax acts as a natural protector, trapping dust and other foreign particles. If a diver’s ear canal has too much wax, however, it could create a plug that traps air between itself and the eardrum, resulting in an air space that cannot be equalized. This may lead to a damaged eardrum. Traditional ear plugs are likewise unsuitable for diving as they create an air space that cannot be equalized. If you struggle with getting water out of your ears, lift your outer ear upward and back to straighten the ear canal, and use a hair dryer to blow warm air into the canal for a few minutes (Ensure the air is not too hot!). n

ABOVE The inner workings of the human ear.

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In the first of two parts, Walt Stearns and Mike Bartick delve into the world of open ocean diving by night, and offer some hints and advice on the art of blackwater photography Photography Walt Stearns and Mike Bartick

Many animals will reside within 10 inches of the water’s surface. It can be very productive to spend some of your dive in just 5ft-10ft of water looking up!

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The marine life we regularly see in this realm of darkness takes on an almost-unimaginable litany of shapes and forms, the majority of which are seldom larger than a fingernail. We never know what the lights will bring in, which is part of the attraction to this type of diving 27

PREVIOUS PAGE A small sharpear enope squid (Ancistrocheirus lesueurii) struts its stuff. BELOW Proof that you don’t need to go deep to see interesting creatures on a blackwater dive. BELOW RIGHT Two female paper nautilus with their reflections at the surface.

t’s well past sundown and we’re several miles off the coast of Palm Beach, Florida, preparing to make a night dive. Not just any night dive, though. Tonight’s adventure will put us right in the path of the Gulf Stream, and we won’t be going to the bottom. This is blackwater diving, which is basically drift diving in open water at night, using a lighted downline for reference. And even though we might be diving over deeper water, it doesn’t mean we’ll need to go deep to see our target subjects. In South Florida, the Gulf Stream makes a four-knot journey through the Florida Straits. In the Palm Beach area, it swings westward to within five to seven miles of the coastline, bringing with it many of nature’s rarely seen oddities. Remarkably, the volume of the Gulf Stream here dwarfs all the rivers that empty into the Atlantic combined! Yet once you’re in the water and within the Gulf Stream’s strong yet gentle grip, there is hardly any sensation of movement. The concept of Blackwater diving might seem a bit crazy to most people. You float weightless 50ft below the surface at night, knowing the bottom is another

550ft below, and anything could be lurking in the darkness. But this is where die-hard blackwater divers find themselves on a regular basis. One thing is for sure, all it takes is one good blackwater dive and you’ll be addicted. The marine life we regularly see in this realm of darkness takes on an almost-unimaginable litany of shapes and forms, the majority of which are seldom larger than a fingernail. We never know what the lights will bring in, which is part of the attraction to this type of diving. There is a very real opportunity to see something that no one has ever seen before. The most-common subjects seen on blackwater dives are small gelatinous creatures like comb jellies (Ctenophora), colonial Siphonophores and salps, sea butterflies and even tiny thimble-shaped acorn worms floating as freely as the divers in the water column. Some of the more-tantalizing prizes might include small pelagic octopuses and squid, flatfish like flounder, sole, tonguefish and tripod fish, all in their larval stages of development. Transparent and ornate, the appearance of most larval fish is far removed from

WHEN TO VISIT ANILAO

Anilao is a year round diving destination. November to June is the driest time of year whilst December and January are the coolest months. There is an increased chance of rain from June to August but this is also the quietest time with less divers in the water.

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It isn't all small stuff...

Larger marine life is also found in Anilao, including large schools of jacks, the occasional turtle and giant seahorses offering wide-angle photography.

Weighted downlines are tied to the dive boat, with each diver being attached to the downline via a shorter tagline!

As in Palm Beach, Florida, the dives in Anilao take place in open ocean over deep water, employing a similar downline system, which allows the divers to free-drift in the night’s current what they look like as adults. During their larval stages, deep-water denizens will often ride upwellings to a mere few feet of the surface, making it possible for recreational divers and photographers to have a chance of a lifetime experience. Subjects once only known to deep sea exploration such as the velvet whalefish, cusk-eels, deep-water anglerfish and more have been seen on blackwater dives. Many of these incredibly ornate creatures also have some of the most-colorful names in the business, like the bony-eared assfish (Acanthonus armatus) and snaggletooth stareater.

Anilao, Philippines Halfway around the world in Anilao, Philippines, a nearly identical ritual unfolds each evening as divers take to the boats at Crystal Blue Dive Resort and head out for a late-night hunt. As in Palm Beach, Florida, the

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dives in Anilao take place in open ocean over deep water, employing a similar downline system, which allows the divers to free-drift in the night’s current. The downline system is now the preferred and nearly universal method for blackwater dives. This system consists of a length of rope, a buoy and strong video lights strategically positioned along the downline. The lights serve as both a reference beacon for divers and an attractant to create a plankton cloud. Crystal Blue uses a bright orange buoy that also has a light inside of it which enables the buoy to glow bright orange, aptly named ‘The Pumpkin’. This reference marker enables the surface support team to safely track the divers at all times, putting safety first! The subjects targeted by blackwater divers in Anilao are similar to those found anywhere in the world at similar depths. However, each location also takes on its own host of creatures depending on what is

ABOVE A group of tiny juvenile jacks hiding out inside a type of pelagic tunicate known as a salp. LEFT BOTTOM This larval Atlantic sailfish, scarcely longer than half an inch, will grow up to be one of the fastest open ocean fish in the world hitting speeds as high as 68 mph.

endemic to, or near the area. In general, it’s a mixed bag of creatures, but curiously Anilao follows a similar seasonal pattern as South Florida. Diel vertical migration of planktons is a welldocumented occurrence worldwide. The underlying stimulus to this global event is in response to changes in light intensity throughout a 24-hour period. As late afternoon progresses to night, organisms dwelling beneath the photic zone during the day will embark on a remarkable long-distance journey to the ocean surface. In addition, horizontal migration is also a method described by science that planktons use for disbursement. It also plays heavily into the cast of characters seen on blackwater dives. Among the many spectacular finds Anilao is known for are reliable sightings of paper nautilus (Argonauta hians), and blanket octopus, along with a number of deep-sea squid species. Other oddities include larval oar fish species and one genuine head scratcher referred to as a jellynose, which strongly resembles a caricature of Puff the Magic Dragon - except as a fish.

Gaining experience Like anything else, becoming a proficient blackwater diver requires experience. The proficiencies needed for successful blackwater diving include dive, hunting and photo skills. Excellent buoyancy skills are a must for blackwater dives, and it is also suggested to have a computer that is constantly backlit and on for easy viewing and reference. Divers should enter the water next to the buoy and begin a slow descent in order

Anilao is home to incredibly trained and knowledgeable dive guides who will blow your mind with their God-given ability to point the rarest, smallest, weirdest critter that you’ll never be able to find yourself.

WHAT A DISCOVERY!

The Philippines has the highest rate of discovery of new animal species, with 16 new species of mammals discovered in the last ten years.

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The subjects targeted by blackwater divers in Anilao are similar to those found anywhere in the world at similar depths

WHERE IS ANILAO?

Anilao is located about three hours drive south of Manila on the island of Luzon, in the Batangas province of the Philippines.

to orient to the dark 360o environment. With limited visual references to help maintain position in the water column, paying attention to your ears can also be a good first alert to ascending or descending. A good strategy for finding subjects is to hunt along the outside edge of the glow cast by the lights on the downline. This is particularly important for lightsensitive subjects. Using a strong handheld torch with a tight beam is one favorite method for hunting, and some divers will attach similar lights to their cameras. Be patient and allow the water and the downline lights to work for you. In the beginning fin slowly and orbit the line, using your lights to search the water ahead of you. Look small and you will find big, as many of the most beautiful creatures are tiny.

Blackwater photo-tips Just so that you are forewarned - the learning curve for blackwater photography is as harsh as it is humbling. I often think of blackwater photography more along the lines of blackwater-photo-masochism. Even the most-experienced underwater photographer

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often comes away from their first blackwater endeavors with their tails tucked between their legs feeling photo-frustrated. One of the best ways to prevent this humbling experience is to pre-think and pre-set your camera with some basic jump-settings. Jump settings ISO range 320-400, Aperture - ƒ,14 Shutter speed - 1/200, Strobe power-75% Using a faster ISO increases light sensitivity, which allows for a slightly lower strobe power and faster recycle times. ƒ-14 is a natural aperture that allows for both depth of field and light. A shutter speed of 1/200 will stop the movement and help to create sharp detail of your prized finds. There’s nothing worse than returning to your computer to find your images are soft around the eyes of your subject. In addition to the itty-bitty size of the subjects, there is also the issue of body composition and coloration. Some might have highly reflective surfaces, others may be partially opaque to completely

LEFT Juvenile blanket octopus, mostly likely a male about the size of a raisin. MIDDLE This strange looking creature known as a Sea Butterfly (Cavolinia tridentata) with yellowish green mantle appendages is actually a mollusk closely related to snails. ABOVE Diamond squid offer great photo opportunities.

Blackwater diving is one of those disciplines that takes time and plenty of practice - it is worth getting used to the techniques of blackwater diving before even contemplating taking a camera along with you for the dive.

transparent, making them not only difficult to see, but a challenge to light. There is also a matter of framing while dealing with the ways these creatures tend to move. Unlike sedentary subjects found on the substrate, blackwater subjects are often quite active. Watch your subject, anticipate their movement and by using single spot focus, concentrate on their eyes. While some subjects tend to drift and pulsate with the current, others will spin and roll, behave erratically or suddenly jet off to one side or the other and out of frame. Fellow photographer Mike Bartick describes dealing with such creatures as trying to photograph a butterfly in flight while running after it in the dark. n Next issue: Walt Stearns and Mike Bartick will look in more depth at photo systems, from DSLRS to mirrorless, the best lenses and strobe settings and positioning.

ABOVE Pelagic longfin squid. LEFT Atlantic sailfish.

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n the world of exotic diving, Thailand stands out, with an amazingly diverse array of dive locations and marine life. It also has great topside excursions, romantic getaways… and among the planet’s mosthedonistic nightlife. Thailand’s long, mountainous peninsula, where most diving is located, separates the Gulf of Thailand to the east, from the Andaman Sea to the west. Thailand is a year-round diving The coastlines are dotted with thousands of jungle-covered, destination, but the season oscillates white-sand fringed islands, which rise up steeply out of clear, tropical from coast to coast. From May to waters rich with coral reefs. For an article like this, choosing ‘the best’ of November, the best diving is found Thailand’s dive sites or areas has proven a wonderfully difficult task on the west coast in the Andaman there are simply so many to choose from. Sea, and from December to We’ll start in the country’s southwest, in the area around Krabi April, the best diving is found Province, where Koh Lanta (‘Koh’ is Thai for island) edges the Andaman on the east coast in the Sea. From there, we’ll head northwards up the coast to Koh Phi Phi, Gulf of Thailand. with its two main islands and scores of deserted islets. Then, moving to the northwest some 46km, we’ll reach Phuket, not only one of Thailand’s exotic hotspots, but also the epi-centre of Thailand diving, with dayboats and liveaboards reaching sites in virtually every direction. To finish up, we’ll head across the peninsula to the Wherever there are corals, the fish that offshore island of Koh Tao, known live and feed among them are sure to be for its remarkable collection of unique found, creating one underwater world dives and its extensive dive training community. after another to be explored

or fished.

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The density and scope of the life that surrounds this lonely, ocean pinnacle is remarkable

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Al Hornsby takes you on a whistlestop tour of some of Thailand’s best diving areas Photography Al Hornsby

Thailand’s has over 2,000 miles of coastline, encompassing 1,430 islands. Many of these are tourist hotspots, while others remain uninhabited to this day!

PREVIOUS PAGE Thailand’s reefs are smothered in soft corals and sponges. ABOVE Vibrant soft corals are a sight to see. MIDDLE Thailand topside is just as dramatic with stunning scenery. TOP RIGHT Anemones coat the reef in certain places. RIGHT A group of students returning from an open water dive.

Koh Lanta Yai Reached by a flight to the town of Krabi and a boat ride, Koh Lanta Yai is a 15-mile-long island facing the open sea. The mountainous, jungled island has intricate cave systems, waterfalls, lovely stretches of white sand beach and unusually pristine dive sites – besides the island’s several dive operators, there are only a few liveaboards that include Koh Lanta’s dives in their itineraries. An hour of smooth-water motoring takes you to a great site off Koh Ha Noi where the island’s cliffs form a steep underwater wall in very clear water, the slope covered in soft corals, sea whips, sponges and anemones. Large schools of blue-striped snapper, Oriental sweetlips, lionfish and angelfish congregate at the slope’s end, on a sand bottom at about 65ft, where a jumble of large limestone rocks creates swim-throughs. These lead into a cave system filled with cave sweeper, the scene softly lit by shafts of light shimmering down from a six-feet-round hole at the top. Ascending, there is a tunnel that reaches a beautiful, shallow, sand-bottomed cavern. Some 24 miles south from Koh Lanta are two

famed dive sites, sometimes visited by liveaboards from Phuket to the North, but which are comfortable dayboat trips from Koh Lanta. Hin Daeng (‘Red Rock’) is a solitary outcrop that barely breaks the surface, named for its thick covering of vibrant, red soft corals. Besides the dominant reds, there are also orange and bright, yellow species, and many sponges, gorgonians and anemones. The beauty aside, Hin Daeng is also famous for its large marine creatures, including silvertip, grey reef and leopard sharks, and mantas are regularly seen – plus, the occasional whaleshark. Just 1,600 feet away, Hin Mouang is a series of five pinnacles on a 650-feet-long, submerged ridge, with the shallowest point at 8m. With vertical walls dropping to 230ft, it is said to have the deepest dropoff in Thai waters. It has even more life than does Hin Daeng, and there are many soft corals, carpets of anemones and delicate hard corals, all jam-packed onto every available surface. Besides the numerous colorful tropicals and large stingrays, there are also many pelagic species seen here, including dog-tooth tuna, barracuda and sharks.

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All species of anemonefish are hermaphrodites. They are all born male and have the ability to turn themselves female, but once the change is made, they can’t go back to being male.

THE PERFECT DIVE DESTINATION?

With more than 349 named dive sites, great visibility, perfect warm water all year round, beautiful reefs full of corals and some of the best marine life in the world, Thailand is THE perfect dive destination.

Koh Phi Phi Also reached by a flight to Krabi, plus a one-and-ahalf hour ferry ride (or two-hour ferry from Phuket to the north), the Phi Phi Islands number in the hundreds, but only one, Phi Phi Don, is inhabited. The main activities around Phi Phi are diving, snorkeling, rock-climbing and beach-combing, with dayboats available to many of the small islets. Its dive sites range from calmwater, critter photography sites to some dramatic, big-animal spots. The two, most-regarded sites are at Koh Bida Nok and Koh Bida Nai. Koh Bida Nok is a small island with a granite cliff face, its mountainous underwater terrain formed by huge boulders, ledges and overhangs. The diving is from the surface to 98ft, with little current. The rocky faces are covered with large sea fans, sea whips and soft corals, and there are many fish, including ghost pipefish, seahorses and colorful reef tropicals. Leopard sharks are commonly seen, and mantas and whalesharks frequent the area in the February-April season. A few hundred feet away, Koh Bida Nai, averaging 65ft of depth, is a small islet that also features rock faces and granite boulders. It has an exquisite swimthrough filled with glassy sweeper, and around the coral bottom are many scorpionfish and lionfish. Large pelagics are frequently seen, and unusual bamboo sharks can be found. The site is also known for cuttlefish and squid, which can often be closely approached and photographed.

Thailand has some unusual laws for instance, it is illegal to step on any form of Thai currency, and it is also illegal to drive shirtless. Plus, it is illegal to leave your house without underwear on, so think twice before heading out commando... WWW.SCUBADIVERDESTINATIONS.COM

Phuket Mention Phuket, which is easily reached by many international air carriers, and exotic thoughts come to mind; gilded Buddhist temples, white-sand beaches, mountainous jungles, Thai food, of course, and a party scene like none other. As to sporting options, there are many… such as hikes to jungle waterfalls, golfing, surfing, elephant-trekking and mountain biking. But, for divers, there’s much more - Thailand’s most-exotic feature is undoubtedly the incredible life that exists beneath the surface of the calm, warm waters of the Andaman Sea, and Phuket is the major access point. With many dive operators and dive charter boats, reaching both local sites and more distant dive areas (on multi-day liveaboard trips) is easy. And, there is an incredible range of world-class diving to choose from, with a remarkable density of marine life.

Phuket’s day diving The most popular day-dives out of Phuket are conducted around several island groups within approximately one to two hours by boat. One of the most popular sites is Anemone Reef, a submerged pinnacle in a marine sanctuary some 18 miles east of Phuket. Its rocky ledges from 16-22ft down are covered in anemones with clownfish, and soft corals; in the deeper areas, there are many, large gorgonian fans. A fun wreck dive, the King’s Cruiser, an 278-feet-long sunken car ferry, is just half a mile away. Another nearby site is Hin Musang (Shark Point), a line of three main pinnacles, one of which breaks the surface. With an average depth of 65ft and a maximum of 78ft, it has lots of marine life, including sponges, gorgonians and big fish, such as trevally, barracuda and schooling snapper. A sandy bottom with a number of resident leopard sharks, gives the site its name. One of the most-dramatic local sites is off Koh Racha Noi. With a maximum depth of 100ft, the island’s northern point has huge boulders and pinnacles, with lots of fish and a number of sharkspecies, especially nurse, leopard sharks and grey reefs. The southern tip is deeper, averaging 82ft and exceeding 130ft, with lots of soft corals on the boulders, and there is an old wooden shipwreck.

WRECK HEAVEN!

Wrecks such as the King Cruiser are covered in marine life and make a nice change from Thailand’s stunning natural coral reefs.

Liveaboard diving Phuket’s most-famed diving is from its large fleet of liveaboards, which run trips of typically two to six days. Along with the southern routes that visit Koh Lanta and Phi Phi sites already described, the northern routes reach the famous Similan and Surin Islands.

Koh Similan Some 55 miles northwest of Phuket are the Similans, nine larger islands and many smaller rock outcroppings that form the Mu Koh Similan Marine National Park.

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Diving the Gulf of Thailand is great for a beginner doing advanced courses or for travelers looking for their first dive course. The Gulf also offers amazing spots for experienced divers to enjoy some dramatic walls, shipwrecks and reefs, with the chance to see a passing whaleshark.

Around the wreck are stingrays in the sand, and giant grouper, sweetlips and several species of snapper congregate about the deck and superstructure These beautiful, jungle-covered isles are breathtaking – both above and below the waterline. The water typically is very clear, with visibility reaching 100 feet. They offer many sites, some 26 being regularly dived. On the south tip of Koh Similan, Beacon Point has large scattered boulders and profuse hard corals, and reaches 130ft in depth. There are whitetip sharks and many schooling fish, plus many pelagic species. Located some 650 feet south of Koh Payan, Boulder City is a submerged jumble of huge, smooth-sided boulders and swim-throughs. The rock is decorated with many fans, soft corals and encrusting sponges. Reaching 100ft in depth, it is an exciting dive, with a resident school of bumphead parrotfish. Just south of Koh Similan is Hin Pousar (Elephant Rock), where several rounded rocks extending above the surface form one of the Similans’ favorite sites. The boulders rise from the bottom nearly 160ft down, their sheer sides covered with purple and white soft corals, and create meandering passageways, with every wall splashed with color from sponges, corals and seafans.

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Koh Surin Some 62 miles to the north of the Similans are the remote Surin Islands, forming the Mu Surin Marine National Park. The Surins feature perhaps the single, most-dramatic dive site in Thailand – remote Richelieu Rock, at the park’s southeast corner, which is a rough spire that just breaks the surface. Rising from a gravel bottom at 100ft, the crag is small enough to be easily circumnavigated in less than 30 minutes, with a gradual spiral upwards to the tip providing a perfect, not-a moment-wasted, dive plan. The density and scope of the life that surrounds this lonely, ocean pinnacle is remarkable. There are giant guitarfish; huge schools of trevally, cobia, snapper, blackfin barracuda and batfish; lionfish of several species; numerous species of clownfish; cuttlefish; nurse and leopard sharks; various species of moray eel; mantis shrimp and more. And, if this remarkable place needed anything else, in the February and April season, majestic whalesharks may frequently be seen cruising past.

MIDDLE Whaleshark. ABOVE Heading off for a dive from a boat. LEFT Wrecks are covered with growth and frequently have large amounts of fish on them.

ABOVE Sail Rock in the Similan Islands.

Koh Tao On the opposite side of the Thai peninsula, Koh Tao sits in the Gulf of Thailand, some 45 miles offshore. Reached by a one-hour, ferry-ride from the international airport at Koh Samui, Koh Tao’s graniteboulder geology and steep mountainsides create an incredible landscape for hikers and climbers, but its biggest recreational draw is its diving and snorkeling. Sail Rock, an iceberg-shaped, life-covered pinnacle, with surrounding additional submerged peaks, rises steeply from a 150ft sand bottom. While it is famed for its winding, well-lit chimney that extends from 60ft to within 16ft of the surface, its special magic is the profuse collection of marine life. There are several species of large grouper, huge schools of resident longfin spadefish, and yellowfin pickhandle and bluelined barracuda, all milling around the spire. Not far offshore on the west side of Koh Tao is the 157-feet-long US Navy LCI (landing craft, infantry) Sattakut, which saw considerable action during World War Two, and after the war became a part of the Thai Navy. Sunk as a dive site in 2011, it rests with its bow at 85ft, and the bridge at 59ft. With two guns, the most dramatic is its 76mm bow cannon. Perhaps the island’s most-remarkable dive is a long, submerged pinnacle off the northwest tip of the island, Chumphong Pinnacle. Rising up from a 130ft sand/ rubble bottom to within 45ft of the surface, the site is a huge panorama of mountainous ridges and spires. The surfaces of the rocks are decorated with large gorgonians, black coral and sponges, and seemingly hectares of slopes are covered with anemones.

Conclusion All in all, Thailand, with its remarkable dive sites and marine life, and its wide array of holiday options both above and below the waterline, should undoubtedly be considered a must-visit on every diver’s wish list. n

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Thailand GETTING THERE Thailand has six international airports - Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Hat Yai, Krabi, Phuket and Ko Samui. Most flights arrive into Bangkok, and you can then get connecting flights to the other airports. WHEN TO GO The best times to visit Thailand for diving are May to November on the west coast, and December to April on the east coast. However, it is possible to visit all year round. CURRENCY The Thai baht is the legal currency. It is approximately 30 baht to US$1. ENTRY REQUIREMENTS You just need a passport with six months left until expiry. If you are visiting for less than 30 days, you do not need a visa. CHECK CURRENT COVID RESTRICTIONS FOR TRAVEL. ELECTRICITY Plugs in Thailand are the same shape as in North America, but the electricity supply is 220v, not 110v, so you will need an adaptor for your appliances.

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Barefoot luxury in the heart of Indonesia

Bunaken National Marine Park I had a fantastic time at Siladen Resort. The resort itself is a quiet and idyllic oasis, the food was outstanding, but it’s the fishes that will have me coming back. The dive crew were some of the friendliest folk I have met. Always smiling, and so happy. I can’t wait to dive there again. Dr. Richard Smith

w w w.s i l a d e n.c o m

Channel dives are one of the mostexhilarating things you can do in the Maldives, but throw a scooter into the mix, and you have all you need for a massive amount of fun. Photography Mark Evans and Stuart Philpott

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Manta rays have often been spotted leaping out of the water like flying pizzas. But the reasons for this behaviour is still a mystery to scientists. Some theories have attributed the behaviour to mating rituals, communication and removal of parasites.

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UNDERWATER CABINET MEETING

In 2009, the president along with his 13 government officials adorned scuba gear and held a cabinet meeting on sunken desks in order to increase attentiveness about the threats that the island chains are facing.

These sometimes narrow channels funnel water flowing in and out of the atolls at quite phenomenal speeds, and this is a magnet for marine life, especially sharks, rays and the like PREVIOUS PAGE Blasting past bannerfish enroute to the channel. ABOVE Scootering in on an eagle ray. TOP MIDDLE Large shoal of bluestriped snapper. RIGHT Flypast an overhang in the channel. RIGHT BOTTOM Apollo scooters at the ready. FAR RIGHT Anemonefish.

he current was buffeting my mask, and my bubbles were being ripped away from my exhaust as I breathed out. The hose on my primary second stage was undulating like a snake in a tornado, so I gripped my mouthpiece tighter between my teeth. I was in the midst of a channel dive in the Maldives, the famed Kuredu Express site, and the blue water in front of me was full of swirling grey reef sharks effortlessly gliding on the currents flowing into the atoll. Below me, I could see the edge of the reef where it dropped away into the abyssal depths. Out of the corner of my eye, I saw our guide Karola gesturing to follow her along the reef, and tilting my shoulders slightly in her direction, the current pushed me sideways and then the power of the Apollo scooter nestled between my legs kicked in and I zoomed off, feeling like a pelagic predator as I swooped and dived in the blue. I felt sorry for the other divers below who were reef-hooked into the bottom of the channel and were unable to move, especially when we blasted past them and swept down on a huge group of

spotted eagle rays hanging in formation in the current. Combining scooters with channel dives is a masterful move, but I had now been ruined forever – no channel dive would ever compare again!

Get your motor running The Maldives is world-renowned for its adrenalinefuelled channel dives. These sometimes narrow channels funnel water flowing in and out of the atolls at quite phenomenal speeds, and this is a magnet for marine life, especially sharks, rays and the like. The standard way to ‘do’ a channel dive is to drop into the water up-current of the entrance and drop down the wall as you drift towards the ‘mouth’. As the edge of the entrance comes into view, you fin like hell to get as close to the drop-off as possible and then reef-hook into the rocky bottom. Once secured in position, you can then inflate your BCD and buffet around in the current like a kite in the wind and watch the endless parade of sharks, barracuda and other pelagics as they ride the currents in front of you. Once you bottom time is up, you release your reef hook and zoom off

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Apollo AV2 Evolution scooter

The coconut tree is one of the symbols of the Maldivian emblem. National tree of the islands and the only natural shade protection on Maldivian beaches, coconut trees can grow to over 100 feet high and reach the staggering age of 100 years.

Apollo has been making underwater scooters since 1988, and the AV2 Evolution is the latest model. It features a runtime of up to 190 minutes per charge, is depth-rated to 230ft, offers three speeds – up to a maximum of 2.8 mph, which might not sound much, but believe me, underwater it feels rapid! – and is made from sturdy ABS resin. On the surface they are quite a lump, weighing in at around 47lb, but underwater, they are only negatively buoyant by a matter of a couple of pounds, so very easy to handle. www.apollosportusa.com

A FLAT COUNTRY

The Maldives is the flattest country in the world. Its highest point (on Villingili Island) is only 7 feet and 7 inches above sea level, but the average ground level across the country is just 4 feet and 11 inches.

Prodivers M aldives

ISLANDS BY NUMBERS

Prodivers has been exploring the Maldives for over 33 years, opening the doors on Kuredu Resort and Spa back in 1988. Since then it has grown to become one of the biggest dive operations in the area, with centres on Hurawalhi, Innahura, Komandoo, Lily Beach and Vakarufalhi as well. They can offer a wide range of courses, including entry level and various specialities, as well as cater for snorkellers and those in search of topside watersports. They are also a PADI five-star IDC centre, and run dive pros courses periodically through the year, and if you fancy trying something new, they also offer closed-circuit rebreather trydives. There are more than 60 dive sites accessible from Kuredu, so even if you are on-island for an extended holiday, chances are you could dive and never hit the same site twice, though believe me, iconic locations such as Kuredu Express and Kuredu Caves demand more than one visit. Safety is paramount with Prodivers, and so all qualified nitrox divers use oxygen-enriched air free of charge on their dives, and if in the unlikely event there is a diving incident, there is a hyperbaric chamber and team of dive doctors right on the island of Kuredu. www.prodivers.com

Of the 1,190 islands in the Maldives, only 200 are inhabited. An additional 80 islands host private, luxury resorts.

in a drift dive before being picked up by your dive boat. That is the ‘normal’ routine, but Prodivers on Kuredu decided to put their own spin on channel dives, and bring in the use of Apollo AV2 Evolution scooters. Now riding a scooter on any dive brings another dimension to the dive, as you can cover so much more ground, plus there is the fact that just whizzing around on one of these things will put a huge smile on your face! However, add a scooter into the mix with Maldivian channel diving and you are right on course for a memorable experience. I have ridden various scooters and DPVs over the years, from small hand-held units like those from SeaDoo to clip-on beasts like the Suex XK1, but I had never used an Apollo. These units are quite big and heavy compared with some of the newer scooters out there, but they have one unique quality which is what attracted Prodivers to them in the first place – with the addition of a plastic ‘saddle’ on the front, you can sit on and ride them. There are many advantages to this, not least it leaves your hands free to hold and operate your camera, but also it is far less tiring than controlling a scooter with your hands. It takes a little while to get used to ‘driving’ one of these Apollos, but you soon get the gist of angling your body from your shoulders to steer left and right and go up and down. Prospective scooter channel riders first have to go on a test drive on a normal reef dive to demonstrate

they can handle a scooter and have mastered the techniques required to ‘fly’ one safely and proficiently. Don’t see this as a ‘wasted dive’, as like I said, zooming around on any dive on one of these scooters will leave you grinning like a Cheshire cat. You attach the scooter to a D-ring on your BCD with a short tether, so if you stop and come off the ‘saddle’, it doesn’t disappear into the depths, though it is only slightly negatively buoyant and despite its size, easy to handle. The controls are simplicity itself – you just reach down between your thighs and operate a lever – from the off position, you can then set different speeds, from a gentle cruise to a full-on blast at top speed. Once you have been ‘signed off’, you are now able to head out for a channel scooter dive.

TOP LEFT Turtle flypast. ABOVE Happy scooter divers ready for the off.

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Maldivian sand is coralline, which is extremely fine and very rare less than 5 percent of the world’s beaches are coralline, most are made up of quartz.

ABOVE A stunning view for breakfast on Hurawalhi.

We did a few of these through the course of our trip, but the first one mentioned at the start of the article was the most-memorable. The incoming current was nice and strong, so we entered the water on the outside reef, clipped on our scooters, dropped down to about 15m and then engaged power to fly along the reef in formation. As the reef edge appeared in front of us, we switched up to full speed and headed out into the channel proper. It is simply mind-blowing flying around in the current ripping through the channel. Having been so used to being anchored in one place on a reef hook, the level of freedom afforded by being on the scooter was incredible. We would motor along the edge of the drop-off and, when we came across some frenetic action, we would steer directly into the incoming current. With the scooters on full power, we were able to just about hold position in the raging torrent, and it was just amazing to be in the midst of the sharks as they glided around in the blue. Once they moved on, or we tired of what we were seeing, we just leaned one way or the other and off we went to another location. On one occasion we dropped in on a huge shoal of spotted eagle rays, which were hanging in the current like a squadron of otherworldly spaceships, another time we raced alongside a shoal of barracuda. As our NDL approached, the real fun started. Karola signalled for us to turn around and head into the channel, and as soon as we wheeled around and had the current behind us, we literally flew through the cut. With the scooters on full speed and the flow with us, the underwater topography whipped by at a serious rate of knots. Now and again we’d spot something of interest, pull a sharp 180 degree turn, allow the scooter’s power to hold us in position while we had a look, and then arc back round to resume our speed drift. A truly high-speed way to round out an awesome channel dive. n

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

The Maldives GETTING THERE International flights arrive at Male’s Hulhule Airport, which is on an island of its own. Transfers from the airport to your resort or liveaboard are either by boat, seaplane or a domestic flight. WHEN TO GO The Maldives has two distinct seasons – dry season (northeast monsoon) and wet season (south-west monsoon). The northeast monsoon usually extends from December to March/April. The southwest monsoon usually runs from May to November. CURRENCY The Maldives currency is the Rufiyaa, but many resorts and liveaboards will accept payment in most major currencies and by credit card. ENTRY REQUIREMENTS A 30-day travel visa is granted on arrival, you just need to have a valid passport with at least six months remaining, and a return air ticket. ELECTRICITY 230-240 volts, 50 cycles AC, and you will need an adaptor for your US-style two-pin plug.

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WE ARE DIVING IN THE RED SEA AND MALDIVES NOW! TO HELP YOU PLAN, WE’RE CONTINUING OUR “NO DEPOSIT SCHEME“ Contact us for the latest updates on new flight arrivals

Contact reservations@emperordivers.com We’re the team to help you go diving again!

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TOP DIVE SITES

Socorro, San Benedicto, Roca Partida and Clarion are four volcanic islands that make up the Revillagigedo Islands, some 250 nautical miles south of Cabo San Lucas.

Roca Partida

Roca Partida is only a small, guano-covered rocky islet poking out of the Pacific Ocean – it measures just 130 feet in height, and some 100 metres in length – and is so compact that divers can circumnavigate the entire site a couple of times on one dive. However, what it lacks in size it makes up for in content – the vertical walls attract hordes of pelagics, from various shark species (silky, gray, hammerhead, whale) to dolphins, manta rays and even humpback whales.

The Boiler (El Boiler)

The Boiler is one of the most-famous dive sites at San Benedicto Island and it is considered the premier spot for interacting with giant manta rays in the whole of the Socorro chain, as they congregate here to be cleaned by clarion angelfish. It is a large pinnacle that rises up from the depths to within 20ft of the surface. Like Roca Partida, the site can be circled

several times on a single dive. As well as the friendly mantas, which seem to bask in the exhaled bubbles of the divers, you can also expect to see dolphins, sharks and whales.

Diving at the Socorro Islands is recommended for experienced divers, due to the often choppy seas, strong currents and abyssal walls. You need to be confident in your buoyancy and happy dealing with surge, swell and currents.

The Canyon (El Canyon)

San Benedicto’s other ‘must-dive’ site is The Canyon. While mantas sometimes put in an appearance, this site is all about sharks – expect to see silkies, Galapagos sharks and hammerheads, the latter usually in vast schools numbering hundreds of individual animals. As with all sites in Socorro, you never know what else might turn up out of the blue.

Cabo Pearce

Cabo Pearce is a top dive site on Socorro Island. It is effectively a long, thin finger of rock that stretches out off the east coast of the island

ABOVE The Socorro Aggressor. TOP RIGHT Manta ray. MIDDLE RIGHT The main deck offers plenty of space to relax and unwind after a day of diving. RIGHT Divers head off on the RIB for a dive.

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Hints and advice Socorro is known as Mexico’s ‘Little Galapagos’ due to their remote location and plethora of pelagic animals that you can encounter, although it is often compared with the likes of Cocos Island and Malpelo as well. It is by far the easiest to get to from the USA, with the Aggressor departing from San Jose del Cabo, which has its own airport. It can take 24 hours to travel to this magnificent area, so make sure you take some good books, catch some ZZZs so you are ready for the diving to come, and catch up with your fellow adventurers on board. Plus, there will be plenty of movies to while away the hours in the main salon, or in the comfort of your own stateroom.

Socorro Aggressor Length: 135 feet | Beam: 27 feet Passengers: 26 | Staterooms: 13 The Socorro Aggressor is a spacious yacht built for comfort, safety and stability. Each of the staterooms has individual air-con, a private head and shower, porthole view window, hair dryer, fresh towels and a 32-inch flat-screen. There is a beautiful salon that is airconditioned and well-equipped with an LCD TV and satellite telephone. There is also a large sun deck with shading, chaise lounges and deck chairs, a bar, and a complete photo/video center. www.aggressor.com

Safety is paramount, especially when you are diving way offshore as at the Socorro Islands. All divers must carry a whistle and an inflatable safety sausage or DSMB at all times, and will also be provided with individual Lifeline GPS/radio beacons. You will always have amazing dives at Socorro regardless of when you go, but the Socorro Aggressor aims to hit some of the optimum months, operating from mid-November to the end of June (the vessel moves to Guadalupe Island from August to early November).

and extends into the current. Massive schools of hammerheads characterise Cabo Pearce, although you can also encounter silky sharks and manta rays. The best bet is to drop down and take shelter from the sometimes-strong current among the rocks and wait to see what comes cruising by.

O’Neal Rock (Roca O’Neal)

O’Neal Rock is also known as Hammerhead Central, which might give you an inkling as to what you might see at this Socorro Island dive site. As well as the seemingly ever-present hammerheads, you can also see Galapagos sharks, grays and silkies, but if you can tear yourself away from the pelagics, on the plateau at 33ft-39ft, you can find smaller critters such as lobster, and there is also a photogenic cavern. n

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David Jones is entranced by the manatees of Crystal River, and says it is an experience that everyone should have at least once in their life Photography David Jones and Walt Stearns

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Citrus County is known as the ‘Manatee Capital of the World’, and it is one of the only places in Florida where you can swim with manatees. Local guides are knowledgeable about how to respectfully and carefully share the water with these creatures.

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lorida – it truly is the place of ‘things to do’. You only have to type it into Google and you’re instantly inundated with fun facts, figures, images and tempting offers to visit the Everglades, the Kennedy Space Center, the sandy beaches and, of course, a plethora of amusement parks all vying for your patronage. Surprisingly what didn’t appear on Tripadvisor’s top ten attractions was swimming with manatees, but that was what I decided to do when a short business trip to Orlando presented me with the opportunity. With very little time available, I decided to skip the Magic Kingdom and jumped into my hire car at the airport for the two-hour drive to Crystal River. The consistent temperature and reliability of this water source is what attracts the manatees to the area, particularly in the winter months. For most of the year, the Florida manatees, which are a sub-species of the West Indian manatee, are dispersed around the coastline and its numerous estuaries and rivers, but as the weather cools they congregate, sometimes in large numbers, around the warmer water springs. To get the best chance of seeing manatees, you have to go in the winter and you have to get up early - and boy, was this early! Once the sun comes up and the waters get warmer, the animals will spread out and move away from the springs, but when that alarm went off at 4am after only three hours of sleep, I seriously started to question my decision to go for the early morning boat trip option.

FOOD LOVERS!

Manatees eat about 10 to 15 percent of their body weight each day. It takes them about seven hours per day to graze on food.

Once the sun comes up and the waters get warmer, the animals will spread out and move away from the springs, but when that alarm went off at 4am after only three hours of sleep and with my body still struggling to get over the flight and drive from the day before

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Bill ‘Bird’ and Diane Oestreich are the owner of Bird’s Underwater Inc, and have been operating in Crystal River full-time since 1989. They are founding members of META (Manatee Eco Tourism Association), a non-profit dedicated to education, co-operation and proper manatee manners among the associated members. As well as the manatee tours, Bird’s Underwater also offer scuba training at all levels, including technical, cave and CCR, and run regular trips to various locations, including Ginne Springs, Devil’s Den and Blue Grotto. www.birdsunderwater.com

I had chosen to join Birds Underwater Manatee Dive Center for my manatee experience. There were plenty to choose from and they all look very professional, but perhaps I was swayed by the fact they had been operating for over 30 years and that they had enough positive reviews on Tripadvisor to make any business owner seethe with jealousy. It was still dark when I and the other half dozen or so excited participants rocked up to their dive center, but we were ready to see the manatees face to face. As a National Wildlife refuge and a State Park, the Crystal River area is highly designated and regulated, so the first order of business when we arrived was a thorough briefing about what we could and couldn’t do. This was followed by another televised version of the rules just to reinforce the point, but to be fair the images also served to increase the excitement of the assembled observers in the room. Once that was done equipment was issued. I had taken my own 5mm wetsuit, mask and snorkel, but for those that hadn’t the center provided high-quality gear that was included in the price. Once we had signed the omnipresent liability

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release forms, we were ready for the adventure. The flat-bottomed aluminium boats are designed for this one purpose in life and with engines gently ticking over, we gracefully puttered into Kings Bay. It was an educational and entertaining journey as our knowledgeable skipper and guide provided a nonstop monologue of facts, figures and anecdotes about the Crystal River, the geography and geology, the manatees and any other wildlife that came into view. Gliding past hundreds of pretty impressive shoreline properties with private moorings and busy marinas packed with expensive-looking pleasure boats, the prosperity of this area was in full view. So too was the main source of the wealth of the region - the natural environment that surrounded it. After a couple of stops we finally pulled up outside a small inlet either side of which were some more substantial properties. It was still pretty dark and we were the only boat there. The skipper explained that this was one of the ‘hotspots’ for seeing manatees. While he went on to explain more detail about the source of this particular spring, the guide silently

PREVIOUS PAGE Manatees foraging for food together. ABOVE Manatees chilling out and eating in the shallows. ABOVE Manatees have a face only a mother could love.

Manatees cannot survive in water temperatures below 60 degrees F, that is why they migrate from the open waters of the Gulf of Mexico to natural springs in Florida during the winter months.

MANATEE EVOLUTION

Manatees are thought to have evolved from four legged mammals with their closest relatives being the elephant! Manatees are also known as ‘Sea Cows’ because they move slowly, are very peaceful, eat only plants, and their babies are called ‘calves’.

entered the water and swam towards the shore. A wave of the hand from the guide and the eight of us entered the water, excitedly but quietly as instructed, to join her. The sun had barely come up over the horizon and the residents of the houses that bordered both sides of the inlet had not even contemplated breakfast. The water was surprisingly murky and at 71 degrees F, might best be described as ‘refreshing’ in spite of the 5mm of neoprene. As we got closer to the shore, large grey objects covered in places with algae and shaped a bit like the London Gherkin building for want of a better description, could be seen lying still on the bottom. Growing to up to ten feet in length and weighing over half a tonne when fully grown, these gentle giants are an impressive sight. As we swam over them the odd stream of bubbles would appear to be coming out of them, rising to the surface. Amusingly, we noticed that these did not come from the breathing end! Well, what did you expect? If you ate the equivalent of ten percent of your own body mass of marine vegetation every day, you would emit gas! This also accounts for their distinctive shape by

the way - digesting that much greenery needs a large digestive tract. As the sunlight finally started to brighten the area, some of the manatees began to move, coming up for air, or taking the first of what would undoubtedly be many bites on the vegetation that covered the river bed. We hovered on the surface and watched in fascination. You’re not allowed to approach the manatees and need to keep a reasonable distance, but inquisitive young animals would often come quite close, wanting to interact. The desire to reach out and touch them was enormous, but as I watched, everyone resisted that temptation, kept their distance and ensured the animals had the space they needed when they decided they wanted to move. After a while it became apparent that there were different-colored wetsuits swimming next to me and looking up, I could see there were now three more boats parked where ours was. The opportunity of getting a decent photograph without other people in shot had gone, but it really didn’t matter. To be honest, I was just happy to float around watching as

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There are three main species of manatees, including West Indian, West African, and Amazonian. The manatees found in Florida’s waterways are West Indian.

It was an educational and entertaining journey as our knowledgeable skipper and guide provided a non-stop monologue of facts, figures and anecdotes about the Crystal River

these incredible animals went about their business, seemingly untroubled by their captivated audience and definitely not threatened. After about two hours, I eventually got out of the water, not because my time was up, but because I was starting to get cold. Back on the boat I was offered a cup of hot water – not to drink, but to pour into my wetsuit to warm me up; it was a nice touch. The skipper was in no rush to get back and clearly had more stories to tell, and as we slowly cruised back, we continued to be entertained by the never-ending stream of information. The conversation among the passengers, including myself, was only about one thing - how amazing the whole experience had been. I could leave this article there and thoroughly recommend that you all go and take the opportunity to swim with manatees if you get the chance. That would be my recommendation, by the way. However, recent events dictate that I can’t finish there. The manatee swimming experience business has generated a lot of controversy in the past, and the recent discovery of a manatee with the word

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ABOVE Manatee and its calf. TOP LEFT Manatee in the shallows. LEFT Topside is entrancing as much as underwater. NEXT PAGE TOP Warning signs to protect the manatees. NEXT PAGE BOTTOM Love is... a romantic manatee moment.

‘Trump’ scratched into the algae on the back of one animal is only likely to renew the criticism. There are a number of people and organisations who argue that swimming tours should not be allowed, and that close interaction should be prohibited. I suspect that the local community that benefit from the millions of dollars generated every year by people coming to see them would disagree. So, too, would the hundreds of thousands of visitors who enjoy the ‘spiritual’ experience of what may be the only close up encounter with a large truly wild animal they are ever likely to have. The problem is that sustainable conservation is a difficult and often conflicting three-way process. It is a delicate and complex balancing act between the needs of the environment, society and the economy. Every stakeholder in any situation will have their own interests, concerns and priorities and trying to please everyone is always going to be difficult, if not impossible. When I look at the manatee situation, I see an environmental phenomenon, a local community working together and most of the time in harmony. The manatees are essentially the source of a multi-million dollar industry that supports the local community and its economy. Tour operators have a role to play as an educational and public engagement conduit, but they also act as environmental stewards providing a regulatory function which supports the moreformal park regulations and statute protecting the animals. Will it always work successfully? No. Will there inevitably be some individuals who transgress from the rules in place? Yes. Writing on the back on one of the manatees was despicable and disrespectful, but it was an incident that I am pretty certain didn’t happen during an organised tour and one that can, because of the regulation and protection measures in place, be investigated and the perpetrators potentially prosecuted. The manatees have been in the area for thousands of years, but due to human development they have now become an urbanised wildlife species. Numbers have increased over recent years and, in 2017, they were reclassified from ‘endangered’ to ‘threatened’ under the Endangered Species Act, a clear indication of the success of protection efforts. The biggest danger they face at this time are not from snorkelers, but the high number of leisure boats in the area. Like it or not, the fact is that neither the manatees, nor the people in whose backyards they now find themselves, are going anywhere soon – their lives are forever intertwined. Unfortunately, however, we have a pretty shocking record when it comes to interacting with the environment. Anthropogenic activities have contributed to the eventual extinction of far too many species of animals in the past and it is important that we adopt a precautionary approach moving forward with an emphasis on environmental protection. n

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| Mark Evans reviews the GARMIN DESCENT MK2i and DESCENT T1 GARMIN DESCENT MK2i SRP: USD $2,499 / DESCENT T1 SRP: USD $649 Mark Evans: First off, this is a good-looking piece of kit. It is a fairly chunky size, but thanks to the titanium build, it is quite lightweight. I never actually dived the MK1 Descent, but after seeing them on the wrists of other divers, and at various dive shows, I wasn’t particularly taken with it, I have to say. The screen seemed quite small within the body, and I just didn’t like the look of it. That all changes with the MK2i. Garmin have really nailed the aesthetics this time around, and the display is much bigger and clearer – it seems to ‘fit’ the size of the watch. Since having the MK2i on my wrist, it has garnered lots of positive comments from divers and non-divers alike, so that is a big thumbs up for Garmin. Talking of the screen, I have left it on the default watch-face setting as I find it nice and clean, but there are a whole host of different versions already in the MK2i for those who want to personalise their computer, and more can be downloaded. A neat feature for those who want to stand out from the crowd. Right, let’s talk diving. To get started into the diving menu is simplicity itself – you just press the top right-hand button and it brings you on to the screen where you can select the type of diving you are going to be doing – so either single gas, multi-gas, closed-circuit rebreather, gauge mode, apnea, or apnea hunt for the spearos out there. There is also a dive planning option. So far, I have only used it in the single-gas mode, so let’s focus on that. Another press of the top right-hand button gets you on to a screen where you can see what your nitrox mix is, what your maximum operating depth is, and what level of conservatism you have it set on. You can also see your surface interval. If you need to edit your gas mix or conservatism level, you just press the bottom left button and it takes you to a screen where you can go in and change these. At any time, once you are done, pressing the bottom right-hand button takes you back a screen. From that first dive screen, another press of the right-hand button takes you to a screen where it shows whether it is set for salt or fresh water, and what the safety stop timer is. Again, to edit you just press the bottom left-hand button. A third press of the right-hand button takes you to the ‘dive screen’ itself. I found this nice and clear, and easy to understand during the dive. You can clearly see the nitrox mix, the water temperature, your NDL, your current depth, and your dive time. The display up the left-hand side of the screen goes from green, to orange, to red, and the hand rises as your NDL gets nearer to

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zero, so as well as the actual digit display, you get this handy visual graphic as well. The display on the right-hand side is rather neat. If you are hovering motionless in the water, the hand remains at the 3 o’clock position, and if you start to ascend, it goes up, and if you start to go too quickly, it warns you with orange, and then if it goes into red, the entire screen alerts you to the fact you are ascending too quickly. So, a rapid ascent warning, nothing new there. But what I liked was the fact that the hand can go the other way, to show when you are descending. This may seem pointless to some people, but I can imagine this being very useful if you were out in the blue looking for sharks, for instance, with no point of reference. If you are at this stage and need to change your gas mix, you can just press the top right-hand button and it takes you to the gas select screen. As changing your gas mix is probably the most regular thing you will ever do, this makes it quick and easy to do. When you enter the water, the MK2i vibrates to let you know it has logged your position on GPS, and a big green arrow pops up on screen just to confirm you are starting diving. When you surface, it vibrates again to let you know it is finishing the dive and logging your position once again. One feature I liked here was that when you initially surface, it states on the screen that the dive will end in 20 seconds – this is useful if you had got lost, or become separated from your buddy, and were just popping your head up to confirm your location/find your buddy and then

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descending to continue the dive. As long as you do it within that 20-second window, you remain on the one dive. After diving, when you want to look at your logbook, you just press the bottom left-hand button and the first thing on the screen is the dive log. Top right-hand button press and you are into the log. On this first screen it gives you the time, depth and water temp of your last dive (and a scroll down goes back dive by dive). A further right-hand press, and after a quick loading screen, you get more details, including a graph of your profile alongside the time, depth and water temp info. This screen also appears on the MK2i when you first get out of the water and back on your boat/dry land. Scroll down with the bottom left-hand button and you can get all the stats for your dive, including time in and out, average depth, etc. You can also click on the map function, and this will show your entry and exit points. You also get the opportunity to save the location, so if you have done an awesome dive, you can log the position, which is pretty damn cool. At this point you can also get a more-detailed graph of your depth profile, the temperature profile, and any gas switches.I have mainly been diving on 32 percent nitrox, and have the Garmin set to low conservatism. I have been using it alongside my Shearwater Perdix and Teric, and the NDL was very close throughout the entire week on all of the dives. All three use the tried-and-tested Buhlmann ZHL-16c algorithm, so you would expect that to be the case. Ah, the Teric. The Descent MK2i goes up against various other wristwatch-style dive computers, including the Suunto DX and the Scubapro A2, but it seems to be most often compared with the Teric, so how do we think it stacks up against the competition? Well, let’s talk diving first. Both the Teric and the Descent MK2i are supremely capable dive computers, capable of multiple gas mixes, CCR, freedive and more, so when it comes down to the diving side of things, there is not a massive amount in it functionality-wise. Yes, the Garmin has the GPS ability, but actual diving, it is a pretty even match, in my opinion. Both have audible and vibration notification, and in both cases, the latter works very well – I could feel it through a 3mm wetsuit with no problem, and even though I was encased in a base layer, thick Fourth Element Halo 3D undersuit and my Otter Kevlar drysuit, I

| Mark Evans reviews the GARMIN DESCENT MK2i and DESCENT T1 GARMIN DESCENT MK2i SRP: USD $2,499 / DESCENT T1 SRP: USD $649 could still feel the vibration through my arm. While we are talking drysuits, the Garmin has a neat feature where you can swap out the straps quickly and easily with a clip system (similar to the Suunto D5). This lets you change to different colors if you so wish, but it also means you can change out the standard strap for a longer version designed to go over a drysuited arm (this comes with the computer). Much neater than adding an extension strap to the existing strap. I was in my Otter Atlantic Kevlar drysuit, which is fitted with the KUBI DryGlove System, but I also took it for a spin wearing Fourth Element’s 4mm neoprene lobster mitts. In both instances, I had no trouble pressing the buttons on the Descent MK2i to navigate through the menu on the surface before the dives, or scroll through the dive screens during the dives. However, I found that Garmin’s neat technology, which lets you cycle through the dive display simply by tapping on the screen, worked a treat in both pairs of gloves and was actually easier than using the buttons. Both the Teric and the MK2i are air-integrated, and this is where the Garmin steals a march over the Teric. Underwater, the Descent T1 transmitter uses SubWave sonar technology rather than the tried-and-tested radio frequency already on the market. This provides a solid connection between the computer and the transmitter once they are paired, but more importantly, it offers a much more impressive range - up to a staggering 30 feet, according to Garmin. In reality, I think they are right on the money – we measured just over 30 feet before we lost the signal. It is phenomenal. On the surface, the Descent T1 pairs with the Descent MK2i using ANT wireless technology, which again is supposed to work up to 30 feet apart, but I found I could be even further away and it was still picking up the tank pressure. The Descent MK2i can be paired up with up to five Descent T1 transmitters. This obviously gives you plenty of flexibility – if you were diving sidemount, you could have a T1 on each cylinder. If you were diving in a twinset with two stages, you could have a T1 on each first stage so you could monitor all of your tanks. If you were teaching, you could mount a T1 on the first stage of your student, or students, and then you would be able to see how much gas they have got left before you even ask them to give you a reading. If it is just you and your buddy, you can put a T1 on their first stage and throughout the dive you will be able to see, right alongside your pressure reading on your primary dive data screen, how much gas they have left. You can even put people’s names in so you know which transmitter refers to who. Great functionality, but again, as with the clip system on the straps, Garmin are not the first to offer this feature.

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| Mark Evans reviews the GARMIN DESCENT MK2i and DESCENT T1 GARMIN DESCENT MK2i SRP: USD $2,499 / DESCENT T1 SRP: USD $649 The venerable Scubapro Galileo Sol let you pair up to four transmitters, and while three of the tank designations were intended for use when you were diving with multiple cylinders, the fourth was assigned to a buddy, and you were able to see their tank pressure on your main screen throughout the dive. You were not able to customise the name – they were just ‘buddy’ on the screen – but still, the concept was there. And of course, if you were an instructor, there was nothing stopping you putting two of the other transmitters on to student first stages as well. The Sol’s successor, the G2, can also pair with multiple transmitters in much the same way, but it can link with up to nine transmitters. Similarly, the Suunto EON Steel is able to communicate with up to ten Tank Pods, as Suunto call their transmitters. And the EON Core can connect with up to 20 Tank Pods! So this is more than enough to cover most eventualities, be that multiple buddies, or a whole horde of students. Where Garmin does stride out front is down to that SubWave technology. That ability to still be able to connect to a transmitter that is 30 feet away from you is incredible, especially given that most normal radio frequency transmitters lose signal once you are six to nine feet apart. OK, so if you are diving in a buddy team, you shouldn’t really be 30 feet apart, but we know that in the real world, buddy pairs are often further apart than they should be, but with this technology, you should still be able to see their gas level even if they have strayed a little ways away from you. If you were an instructor, and you were working with students and a Divemaster, or another instructor, and were separated int two groups while running through some skills and drills, it would be handy to still be able to keep an eye on everyone’s gas consumption. One thing I have seen commented on online is the screen of the Descent MK2i, and some people saying it is hard to read. Frankly, that is a load of rubbish. Topside, I found I could read the display even when the backlight was not on, but once it was on, it is very easy to see. While diving, I had the backlight set for on all the time, and it made the screen nice and clear, even in bright sunlight in the shallows during a safety stop. I didn’t really notice a massive difference in brightness once I took it over 60-70 percent, I have to say, but suffice to say you can easily see the display either in watch mode or while on a dive. We did a fluo night dive while in the Maldives, and the Descent MK2i was clearly legible even in the pitch black with the backlight on full. However, there is no escaping the fact that the OLED display of the Teric is vastly brighter both in watch and dive mode. The downside to this technology is that it eats battery power,

so while the Garmin did a full week without needing to see its charging cable, I was putting the Teric on charge every other night. So, there are pros and cons – the Teric is undoubtedly brighter, but requires more-regular charging; the Garmin is nowhere near as bright, but still easy to read, and it can go a good week or so before needing a charge. Where the Descent MK2i wins hand’s down is with all of the other features it contains within its svelte body. I am not going to go into all the ins and outs of each, but suffice to say, if you are an active person, the Garmin has you covered! Being based on the tried-and-tested Fenix 6, it has functions for running, biking, hiking, golf, swimming (both pool and open water), kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, boating, triathlon, yoga, cross-county skiing, even jumpmaster for those who liking leaping out of planes! It monitors your heart rate and your blood oxygen level (when it is directly on your wrist), calories burnt, the list goes on. I have been playing with it since it arrived, and I still haven’t got to grips with all of the functionality yet! Wherever you are in the world, the price point of the Descent MK2i is high, there is no getting away from that. But when you consider that it is only a few hundred pounds or dollars more than the Teric, but adds all of the functions of a smart/fitness watch into the mix, that price tag suddenly doesn’t look so bad. If you bought a top-of-the-line wristwatch dive computer and a smartwatch, you’d spend more combined than you would on the Descent MK2i. And I think this is going to be the clincher for many people. If you are an active person who does other sports, and you want a wristwatch that can handle a plethora of your activities including diving, then the Descent MK2i is the logical choice. And if it comes up in the bar on an evening whose dive comp has the most features, then you will win hand’s down! n

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