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CLARENS 13 STAYS OUR EXPERT RATES

Travel like an insider

Now this is how to

SWIM WITH

SHARKS!

By Darrel Bristow-Bovey

HIKING FOCUS

LANGEBERG ROAD TRIP

HOMESTAY

5+ days of Pure. Hiking. Bliss.

INDIA A foodie

UGANDA TREK Better than Kilimanjaro.

Hands down! (pg 82)

experience extraordinaire!

(plus it’s afordable)

GEAR

Here’s your perfect mess kit (pg 54)

PHOTO SPECIAL

GOLDEN

MEET OUR PRECIOUS PENGUINS

by David Crookes

EAST LONDON INSIDER’S GUIDE TRAVEL FOOD

1 Italian sauce, 3 delicious meals OCTOBER 2017 R38,90 Other countries R34,12 getaway.co.za

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4 OUTDOOR ADVENTURES FIND THE PERFECT ONE FOR YOU! ON THE COVER View from the Golden Gate Hotel onto Brandwag Buttress

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Now available from the South African Mint’s retail store, Coin World, as individual coins, a complete ‘Prestige’ set and exclusive ‘Launch’ set.

Email: coinworld@samint.co.za or numismatics@samint.co.za Tel: +27 (0)12 677 2460/2482 Visit: www.samint.co.za *Coins depicted here are an artist’s impression and not actual coins.

10.17 IN THIS MONTH’S GETAWAY

In search of disappearing snow…

The Rwenzori Mountains in Uganda have glaciers, but like Kilimanjaro’s, they’re melting. Go see them while you still can. (page 82)

TRAVEL 58 AFRICAN PENGUINS

An exquisite insight into our continent’s most endangered bird, by Crookes & Jackson 66 GUIDE TO GOLDEN GATE

This Free State reserve is all about protecting grass.

Melanie van Zyl plans four wonderful weekends to play in it

COVER Gallo Images/Getty Images/Mitchell Krog THIS PHOTOGRAPH Shane Quinnell

76 BLUE SHARK DIVING

UPFRONT 7 ED’S LETTER

Here are some memorable ways to spend a birthday, says Sonya Schoeman 8 CONTRIBUTORS

Meet this month’s experts and adventurers 11 THE TRAVELLER

Tired of the tourist spots, Darrel Bristow-Bovey goes adrift in Amsterdam 12 INBOX

Your thoughts and views, plus our latest winners

They swim so gracefully it’ll make your head spin, says Darrel BristowBovey, who got in the water without a cage 82 THE RWENZORIS

Some of Africa’s highest peaks are in this alpine landscape in Uganda, plus they’re like a wonderland, writes adventurer Shane Quinnell 90 KERALA, INDIA

This story about heritage homestays and delicious food by our Nikki Werner will have you packing your bags in a heartbeat.

10.17 IN THIS MONTH’S GETAWAY

PG 40

ESCAPE

PHOTOGRAPHY

GEAR

COMPETITION

14 WISH YOU WERE HERE

24 MASTERCLASS

54 OUTDOOR ‘KITCHENS’

35 SEND US YOUR PHOTOS

Romania, where the old ways are still a way of life

Nocturnal animals: how to nail your night-drive shots

Three mess kits to match diferent kinds of hikers

16 NATURE

28 GALLERY

Win great prizes for your best images, including a trip for two to Botswana

Whales: an update, plus other ways to celebrate the sea this month

Five spectacular images out of Africa by our readers

18 ADVENTURE

FOOD

Three inspiring books about epic journeys

36 A VERY USEFUL SAUCE

19 CALENDAR

Perfect it (it’s easy) and have multiple suppers sorted

The top events this month 21 NEIGHBOURHOOD

THE FINAL CUT

In the hills above Durban, Kloof is a cool place to be

40 CLARENS

22 GEAR

The best battery-free headlamp we’ve tested

Postcard-pretty country escapes you’ll need to book right now

23 INSIDE GETAWAY

ROAD TRIP

Beware of who you climb mountains with, says Tyson Jopson. They may need to rescue you

46 THE LANGEBERG

4 OCTOBER 2017

Chris Davies takes us on a get-away-from-it-all week of driving and hiking

GEAR SHOP 98 KEEP IT COOL

Three iceboxes to get you through the Kalahari

INSIDER’S GUIDE 115 EAST LONDON

On a recent trip home, Ondela Mlandu sees a diferent side to this city

Subscribe Save 25% and receive a clip-ontoanything torch See page 107

Richard McKibben, Teagan Cunnife

PG 28

!

E E R F

Editor Sonya Schoeman

Publisher Neil Piper

EDITORIAL TEAM Deputy Editor Tyson Jopson Copy Editor Food Editor Senior Journalist and Gear Editor Photographer and Photo Editor Multimedia Journalists

Associate Editor Caroline Webb Michelle Hardie Nikki Werner Melanie van Zyl Teagan Cunnife Ondela Mlandu, Nandi Majola

CREATIVE TEAM AND PRODUCTION Art Director Senior Designers Group Production Manager

DIY GUIDE OUR ANNUAL NOT-TO-BE-MISSED

DIGITAL TEAM Kati Auld Digital Content Manager Welcome Lishivha Multimedia Journalist Wendy Lucas Group Digital Business Manager Cicero Joseph Group Web Development Manager Nawhaal Fakir Campaign Manager Bianca Liebenberg Group Digital Designer Lizelle Leonard Webmaster CONTRIBUTORS Darrel Bristow-Bovey, David Crookes, Chris Davies, Pippa de Bruyn, Brandon de Kock, Nicola Jackson, Shane Quinnell, Tarryn Quinnell, Sadiqah Assur-Ismail BUSINESS AND SALES TEAM Group National Sales Manager Commercial Manager Account Managers

HOW TO DO JUST ABOUT ANYTHING GUIDE ON SALE NOW!

Marisa Steyn Leo Abrahams, Leigh Taylor Keryn Rheeder

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OPERATIONS Jacques Breytenbach Director Neil Piper Group Publisher Zanfre Gorgosilich Finance Manager Emmelia Fouche HR Oicer CTP LTD DIRECTORS T D Moolman, J Edwards, P G Greyling, T J W Holden, A C G Molusi, A N Nemukula, N Sooka DIVISIONAL DIRECTORS J Breytenbach, N L Piper Published by RamsayMedia (Pty) Ltd Company registration number: 1934/005460/07 ISSN number: 1682-5136

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FROM THE EDITOR Sonya Schoeman

It ’s not CG I – this is an actual land in Uganda’ scape s Rwenzori mountains

A ine way to go

Shane Quinnell

My siblings and I have a tradition: three times a year we take each other away for a birthday weekend, somewhere splendid and nurturing. For two days, the birthday sib gets to live a life of luxury, pays for nothing, is cooked for (some of us fancy ourselves as gastronomists, so we like self-catering) and is waited on hand and foot. There’s something deeply curative about this, like your siblings are making up for every childhood wrong they ever did you (there’s nothing that makes my sister and I happier than when our brother is doing the washing up, for instance). The point is, the experience trumps a gift and we adore it.

The tradition is seven years in the making, and I notice the weekends are getting more extravagant.

This year I turned 49. This inevitably had my mind turning to the big Five O next year. I wonder how far I can push it – the destination, not the age? (Although it’s true that when I was young, I did think 50 would be the honourable time to go.)

As we put together this issue, it struck me that every one of the featured stories is a worthy contender for my birthday experience. Here are some sentences I want to live: (from Shane Quinnell) ‘…we’re trekking through dense tropical rainforest packed with weird and wonderful creatures such

as Ruwenzori turacos and bright-green three-horned chameleons.’ Oh, to see a three-horned chameleon by the time I turn 50! I want to be ‘sitting on the red oxide stoep at tea time, sipping hot masala chai, snacking on jackfruit petals and battered fried bananas’ (this courtesy of Nikki Werner in India).

A 50-year-old should be living on jackfruit petals and battered fried bananas!

Then there’s this from Darrel Bristow-Bovey: ‘There’s something splendid and hallucinatorily surreal about being suspended in the warm blue with no seabed below you, enveloped in a cloud of 20 or 30 sharks, like a nucleus surrounded by a calm eccentric orbit of elongated electrons.’

I mean, what could possibly go wrong? I can just hear it at the school reunion: Do you remember Sonya Schoeman? Do you know that every last bit of her was snapped up by blue sharks as exquisite as elongated electrons on the day she turned 50?! Gasps and wide eyes all round. As editor of a travel magazine, what a damned respectable way to go. At least I will have died reading one of loveliest sentences ever written.

Enjoy this issue. I think it’s a goodie!

things to look 5 out for in this October issue PENGUIN PORTFOLIO Africa’s only penguins are endangered, and we need to ight for their survival.

We challenged renowned photographer David Crookes to show us their world (page 58).

GOLDEN GATE You’d never guess how beautiful – and important – grasses are. This national park is a treasure trove, and here’s how to visit. See page 66.

AFRICA’S BEST TREK No, it’s not Kilimanjaro.

It’s the awe-inspiring Rwenzori Mountains in Uganda. Turn to page 82.

SWIM WITH SHARKS This experience blew photographer Teagan Cunnife’s mind and ired up Darrel Bristow-Bovey’s imagination (page 76).

Cathrin

TO OUR READERS Our aim is to help make your travel better.

Mail us with any feedback or input at editor@getaway.co.za

Kilaan

LOOK OUT FOR THE GOOD-VALUE STAR Each issue of Getaway has several inexpensive accommodation options, places to stay for under R550 pp (some for less) and that we think ofer good value. getaway.co.za 7

CONTRIBUTORS

ways A 900km maze of water ia Ind , ala Ker in s await

Nikki Werner

Tarryn and Shane Quinnell Ugandan trekking, page 82 ‘Team Tane’ are South African adventurers who lead the high life. Literally. In the last three months, the couple has tackled 12 000 corrugated kilometres in their Suzuki Jimny, ‘Badger’, on their latest expedition – climbing Africa’s ive highest mountains, which included the Rwenzoris, where they attempted ice trekking for the irst time.

8 OCTOBER 2017

Nikki shares a love and deep understanding of food through her writing and by cooking with people, often in her own kitchen. As Food Editor of Getaway and co-author of cook. better, her focus is terroir and technique. She recently travelled to homestays in the backwaters and jungle of Kerala, India, where she was immersed in South Indian cuisine and superbly well fed.

Crookes & Jackson

Darrel Bristow-Bovey

African penguins, page 58

Blue shark diving, page 76

Photographer David Crookes and Nicola Jackson create visually striking interpretations of places, people and travel. This month they turn their lens on our penguins in Simon’s Town.

‘The colony at Boulders is an intimate wildlife experience.

You are on a beautiful beach, observing an endangered species as they go about their daily habits as if you are invisible.

It’s just you and the birds – no car, no boat. Incredible.’

Darrel has been obsessed with sharks since inding a paperback copy of Jaws when he was nine years old and reading all the sex scenes.

He has dived with sharks of the coast of Africa, Asia, South America, the island of St Helena and the Arabian Peninsula.

He has presented his talk, ‘The Sudden Shark: Fear, Creative Living and How a Great White Saved my Life’, many times at venues around the country.

Brandon de Kock, supplied

India, page 90

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THE TRAVELLER Darrel Bristow-Bovey

Wise words for the weary

iStockphoto.com, Teagan Cunnife

By listening to suggestions for once, our columnist has an Amsterdam adventure like no other

I was in Amsterdam in April and the leaves were on the trees and colour was slowly welling in the canals, but I was unexpectedly at a loss.

I had the early stages of lu, my energy was low and my curiosity was waning. I didn’t feel like Van Gogh or Anne Frank or sex shows or smoking weed. I didn’t know what to do.

I found a travel guide in a magazine, one of those authoritative listicles that I always half-suspect have been made up by mutinous interns stuck in an ofice. ‘10 Unusual Things to Do in Amsterdam,’ it said. ‘Number 1: Check out the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky.’

I walked down the canals to the Damrak in the centre of town and found the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky. It was big, but what made it grand? The lobby looked like the concourse of a Soviet train station, one where the trains have stopped running but passengers still sit with their luggage and wait. The loors were tiled like some giant bathroom.

I walked through, wondering what exactly I should be checking out.

There was a dismal convention in a conference room; there was a restaurant called Asparagus. Did they serve only asparagus? Is that what’s interesting about this place? I looked on the menu. They didn’t serve asparagus.

‘Number 2: Visit Boekie Woekie, Amsterdam’s hidden gem of a bookshop.’ Boekie Woekie, eh? I took a meandering path up the Grachtengordel and paused for a beer, leaning on the railing over the Heerengracht. I saw a man cycling past in trafic with a small boy standing on his shoulders; no one in Amsterdam wears helmets. I inally found Boekie Woekie on one of those streets linking the Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht. It was a sort of art-inlected stationery shop. There were sketch pads and pencils and coffee-table art books. I scratched my head, wondering what made this a hidden gem. The proprietor didn’t

seem curious about this strange man standing in her shop, looking around as if searching for clues on a treasure hunt. We had a brief conversation about Bram Fischer and she offered me a piece of fudge from a porcelain bowl shaped like a sheep.

‘Number 3: Take a stroll along the scenic Amstel River. Start behind the train station.’ I walked through the station and found a body of water and started strolling.

It wasn’t that scenic, and it also wasn’t the Amstel River; it was the Ij. By now I had realised that my guide to Amsterdam had been written by a psychopath, or someone with a sense of humour very much like mine. I wandered up the Ij and found the Consertgebouw on the water and looked around inside while the staff smiled benignly. I crossed a drawbridge and drank a beer at a bar where 200 years ago sailors could pay with live monkeys brought back from Africa or the Indies.

In a cafe I played backgammon with a white-bearded man with a cockatoo on his shoulder; I found a pink balloon in the street and carried it for a while, then gave it to a child; I chatted with someone who said she used to be a call girl. I told her about my travel guide and she told her friends and we all laughed together. The barman gave us all free jenever.

I would like to ind whoever wrote that guide to Amsterdam and shake them by the hand. Books and magazines aren’t there to tell us what to do; they’re there to inspire us to go outside.

getaway.co.za 11

INBOX Travellers share their thoughts FROM FACEBOOK

We asked: When was the last time you did something for the very irst time?

In February this year I went abseiling for the irst time at Oribi Gorge and I absolutely loved it. – Nadine Franzsen

WINNING LETTER

Buck up, hikers I recently returned from hiking the mighty Fish River Canyon, something I’ve always had on my bucket list. It was such an amazing experience; the beauty of the trail along the river (which luckily had water) is indescribable. We took some of the short cuts and hiked through the hard and hot desert terrain. But we were left a little peeved at the lack of care by other hikers for the rules.

On signing the forms upon entry, hikers are required to declare that the conservation of nature will be a priority when visiting the hiking trail or conservation area. The contract explicitly states: ‘I undertake not to pollute the environment in any way, which could include discarding tins, paper, bottles or tinfoil linings in burnt out ires, etc. Toilet paper will be burnt or deeply buried. Everything carried into

a wilderness area will be carried out and I will encourage other eco-tourists and hikers to do the same.’

It is so unfortunate that people ignore that and leave litter in this environment.

We came across so much rubbish along the way, especially at the camping spot.

We burnt what we could, removed the aluminium and picked up tins and rubbish along the way that could not be destroyed and carried it with us to Ai-Ais. The sad and inevitable part is that we could not clean up everything we found to leave the canyon as pristine as we were hoping to ind it.

If you are not planning to carry your litter, especially tins and aluminium, don’t bother taking these products but rather those that have burnable packaging. Come now, hikers, let’s not destroy the beauty.

– Steven Vienings, Johannesburg

WIN! Steven wins a pair of Hi-Tec Wild-Life Lux hiking boots worth R1 599 to use on his next expedition! Email your letters (no more than 250 words) to editor@getaway.co.za.

Getaway reserves the right to edit letters to style.

A helicopter lip for the irst time in the Mother City, two months ago.

– Tsakane Mathebula

Last year I did my irst cageless shark dive at Aliwal Shoal in Umkomaas.

I had 30 blacktip reef sharks circling me. An absolutely incredible experience!

– Tanya Pembroke

The Thumb on Giant’s Castle, Drakensberg – didn’t get to the top of the peak, but it was my irst time rock climbing.

– Jonathan Newman

A couple of years ago I went whale watching for the irst time and walked away with this shot! – David Ashley

I believe there is no better place than the bush. It’s where you are allowed to be free and enjoy every moment of what nature and South Africa have given to us. I ind no desire to travel out of Africa, or in fact South Africa, again because everything that attracts my heart lies in the Kruger National Park. It is my favourite place in the world and it tops places I’ve been such as the Eifel Tower in Paris and the streets of Rome in Italy. Everyone has their own taste. However, mine is deinitely for the peace, beauty and dusty roads of the Kruger National Park. – Carla Scamuzzi, Secunda 12 OCTOBER 2017

Teagan Cunnife, supplied

Kruger National Park is my first love!

Winners!

Dragonfly love While hiking the gorge route in Royal Natal National Park, we were on a wild goose chase to ind the Tugela Falls.

After climbing chain ladders, traversing issures and hopping over boulders we eventually turned around and tried an alternate route.

We followed a path that eventually came to a dead end. I was walking in front and was just saying, ‘There is no waterfall here,’ when I turned around and there was my partner, Brendon Hamer, on one knee saying, ‘There are no waterfalls here but there are dragonlies. Will you marry me?’ And before he

From glorious getaways to cool gear, here are some of our latest winners Two-night farm stay for four people at Corrie Lynn Cottage worth R2 240 Wow, thank you so much! This is just the getaway I need. I really appreciate it – thanks so much to Getaway and Corrie Lynn Cottage.

– Megan Scrooby

had inished asking I was already shouting to the mountains, ‘YES!’ So we never found that waterfall but something so

much more beautiful.

May everyone ind their dragonly love!

– Nicole Hudson-Lamb, Pretoria

Hi-Tec hiking boots worth R2 199 I am delighted to have won these fantastic boots.

We go hiking every Sunday and my current ones are due to be replaced. These hiking boots will take me to new destinations and allow me to discover more wonderful areas in our amazing country! – Jill Wagner Wacky Wine Weekend in Robertson worth R5 000 Thank you so much for selecting me as a winner of the prize. I am looking forward to the weekend in Robertson. – Angela Bartsch Lightweight sleeping kit worth R2 897 This deinitely has come as a huge surprise and will be such a spoil when we go camping or for when the kids come for a visit.

– Patricia Blackstock

SNAP OF THE MONTH

I recently did three days of fat biking with two friends along the beach from Wilderness to Knysna. On the way we discovered amazing unscathed beaches, did early morning rides, kayaked with our bikes and crossed abandoned railway bridges. – Ewald Sadie, Cape Town

WIN! Tag us in your images on Instagram @GetawayMagazine and stand a chance of winning a R400 Outdoor Warehouse gift voucher. outdoorwarehouse.co.za

Turn to page 98 for the gear prize this month

SPEAK TO US getaway.co.za | facebook.com/getawaymagazine | Twitter and Instagram: @getawaymagazine getaway.co.za 13

ESCAPE

Eduard Gutescu

THE FIRST STEP TO YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE

the saricӑ, is made This ‘inside-out’ coat, ce, and is unique lee pun uns and r of leathe pathians Car rn the sou to the

WISH YOU WERE HERE

TRANSYLVANIA, ROMANIA Shepherding is still a common vocation in this Eastern European country, where the alpine meadows of the Carpathian Mountains provide rich pastures in summer.

Flocks are brought down to the villages for winter, which sets of a string of shepherds’ festivals – an example of Romania’s deep-rooted cultural traditions, passed down since medieval times. Nea Dan, pictured here in the village of Bran, has been a shepherd all his life – it’s not easy, he told photographer Eduard Gutescu, and very dangerous on account of the wild animals. His only friends, he said, are his six dogs who help protect his lock. Romania has the biggest remaining populations of wolves, brown bears and lynxes in Europe, and these creatures loom large in local folklore. As large as Dracula, whose ‘castle’ looms over Bran and is the main reason tourists visit. But they really should be coming here for the scenery: ‘Anyone travelling to this region would be amazed by the landscape, especially in autumn (October),’ says Gutescu. This image was his entry in the 2017 National Geographic Travel Photographer of the Year contest. To see more, visit travel.nationalgeographic.com.

getaway.co.za 15

ESCAPE NATURE

THE WHALES ARE BACK!

and southern rights Humpbacks (pictured) on the IUCN Red List, n’ cer con are now of ‘least dangered’ – as do ‘en ain but blue whales rem cetaceans several other kinds of

Not just for their annual visit to our shores, but in worldwide numbers

16 OCTOBER 2017

This was the main topic on the table at the conference, with the aim of creating a set of global standards that protect cetaceans in tourism.

A training course for marine naturalist guides is being designed for worldwide rollout, a WCA Responsible Whale Watching app is now available, and the concept of Whale Heritage Sites around the world is being pursued – places where ‘communities respect and celebrate cetaceans and marine biodiversity through conservation action and cultural activities’.

Durban, which has seen an increase in migratory humpback whale numbers, is positioning itself for whale tourism and plans to have an annual Welcoming of the Whales festival in June.

Southern right females left in the world (1930s): less than 500 Southern right whales at the end of the 1990s: about 7 500 Number today: almost 15 000 Southern hemisphere humpback whales (1970s): less than 2 000 Humpback whales today: 50 000 – 60 000 Blue whales in mid-20th century: almost extinct Blue whales today: around 10 000

Gallo Images/Getty Images/Sue Flood, iStockphoto.com

WHALE COUNT The happiest news to come out of the recent World Whale Conference in Durban was from ocean expert Prof Ken Findlay of the Centre for Sustainable Oceans at CPUT: after being hunted to the brink of extinction, certain species of the world’s whale population are bouncing back. The number of southern rights, for example, has doubled in just over a decade. He attributes this to the ‘rare paradigm shift in human thinking and behaviour’ achieved by Greenpeace’s anti-whaling campaigns of the 1970s.

This shift in thinking is also impacting tourism. Last year, some 13 million people world-wide wanted to see marine mammals in the wild instead of at aquariums or theme parks. That’s good news – as long as it’s done responsibly.

CELEBRATE NATIONAL MARINE WEEK ON 12 – 18 OCTOBER PLUS three other ways to appreciate the sea this month The interactive Eco Marine Village at the Hermanus Whale Festival updates visitors on everything from penguins, sharks, dolphins and seabirds to coastal lora, various conservation and ‘green’ projects and, of course, whales. One of the best skills you could walk away with is the ability to not only identify species of marine mammals but speciic individuals who frequent our coastline. 29 September – 1 October. hermanuswhalefestival.co.za African Penguin Awareness Day is 7 October. Rehabilitated rescue penguins will be released back into the wild on Seaforth Beach, Simon’s Town, followed by the Penguin Festival on the lawns, which will have informative exhibits about these highly endangered birds (see page 58). In Port Elizabeth, the Cape Recife branch is hosting a 3K fun walk with prizes for the best dressed and best poster. All proceeds go to SANCCOB, including the new seabird hospital being built. sanccob.co.za Dive right in – this summer’s Aquellé Ocean Racing Series, ‘one of the largest family beach events in Africa’, kicks of in Port Elizabeth on 8 October. It ofers swims for all levels (from 400m to 3km) plus beach runs/walks, and presents regular opportunities (11 in total, until April 2018) to make a splash with like-minded sea lovers. zsports.co.za

Did you know? It’s a crime to litter. Leaving a farm gate open is illegal. Wasting water is an offence.

Lawful Living is a compilation of the many offences tucked away in over 270 statutes, rewritten in plain language and neatly arranged into areas of commerce, industry and everyday life. The author, Owen Salmon, has more than 30 years’ experience in legal practice.

Lawful Living is available in five themed editions, or all in one book.

The Environmental edition, featured here, covers the prohibited activities in relation to agriculture, the environment, forestry and fishing, land, property and mining.

Lawful Living is available from Exclusive Books and other national retailers, or place your order online at lawfulliving.co.za

ESCAPE ADVENTURE

AMAZING JOURNEYS Three interesting new books about extraordinary travels

2 THROUGH A BLACK IRIS

NEW GEAR

Alick Chingapi (Reach, R350) ‘Like the holy grail, like a unicorn, the black African traveller is a myth,’ says Chingapi, who sets out on the classic Cairo-to-Cape Town route to see this ‘Dark Continent’ he’s heard about for himself. There’s poverty, corruption, crime, dictatorship, failing infrastructure, yes. But there’s also diverse cuisine, the egalitarian Oromo people, the inluence of the Internet, entrepreneurship and other things that show that Africa isn’t an artefact or the closest thing to hell.

At times he self-consciously realises he is the only black tourist, then feels relief when he sees a ‘professional-looking’ black cyclist in Ethiopia. Through it all, he provides a much-needed perspective on travelling in Africa. – NANDI MAJOLA

3 NICOLE Richard Pierce (Struik Nature, R180) This remarkable female great white was tagged close to Dyer Island in November 2003, turned up of Western Australia in February 2004, and was seen again in our waters in August that same year. She’d swum 22 000 kilometres in less than nine months. This feat and what it means is what this book is all about.

It gives insight into how scientiic papers are compiled (years of painstaking research) and how getting a CITES listing for a species works. It’s a quick (if not entirely smooth) read, and is accessible, alternating between actual events and people’s stories, explaining the science, and conjecture about Nicole’s journey.

(Her name? Inspired by Aussie shark lover Nicole Kidman.) – SONYA SCHOEMAN

THE FRIDGE FIT FOR A BAKKIE The new 65L SnoMaster Low-Proile Dual Fridge/Freezer its under most tonneau covers, and is designed to operate efectively outdoors, in hot climates, with its thick 60mm insulation.

The durable stainless-steel exterior, hinges, locks and handles equip it for adventure, and the single compartment has a temperature range (between -22 and 10˚C) so you can use it to keep food frozen or just make sure the butter stays solid. You can also ensure the fridge is still operating while you’re driving via a wireless monitor; other cool features include a built-in bottle opener and three internal organiser baskets. R10 000, snomaster.co.za

WIN! Turn to page 98 to win this SnoMaster fridge and ind more cool ways to travel.

18 OCTOBER 2017

Supplied

1 MEDITERRANEAN Huw Kingston (Whittles, R350) Ever wondered what it takes to embark on a big, fat expedition? Kingston’s idea – to circumnavigate the Mediterranean Sea (which sounds romantic, delightful) – turned into an epic trip during which he passed through 17 countries on his own steam. It took a year. The reader travels with a man constantly making life-changing choices, whether based on data, rumour or gut instinct; pushing through injury, weather, red tape or sheer bad luck. Landing on countless beaches, the irony doesn’t escape him: his journey took place in the shadow of a major refugee crisis. Many cross the same territory and water he did. So what does it take? A strong body, yes, but an even stronger mind. – CAROLINE WEBB

ESCAPE CALENDAR

Bikes, bands and cool brands

Supplied

Want to experience the highs of a festival without the lows (like waking up in a sweltering tent)? The Pure and Crafted Festival in Muldersdrift outside Joburg packs the live music, artisanal food and entertainment of a weekend fest into one day. And then adds a twist – of the throttle: heritage motorcycles and local brands.

See some of the coolest vintage bikes in the country, browse bespoke apparel, lifestyle gear and crafts from talented SA creatives (Punk & Ivy and African Goddess will be there), tattoo artists and custom-bike builders. There’s a gin bar, craft beer, stunt rides and a mix of music from local underground artists and big hitters to a resident Ibiza DJ. Tickets R295.

30 September. pureandcrafted.co.za

4 X 4

Watch super stunts

The Finery Arts Festival in Pretoria mixes food, wine, cofee, craft drinks, performances and art into a cocktail of culture and lifestyle.

30 September – 1 October. theinery.co.za

It’s the kind of thing you almost can’t watch but can’t look away either… The daredevils of the Nitro Circus take on a 12-metre ramp called Giganta with just about anything on wheels – from BMXes, skateboards and snowboards to kayaks, whisky barrels, rocking horses and trikes, and perform insane tricks while in the air.

(Ever seen a triple backlip on a motorbike?

Or a no-hander frontlip? Not on YouTube but in real life.) The 30-strong crew have several world irsts, world records and gold medals under their belts, and are always pushing the craziness. And this time founder Travis Pastrana will be along for the ride with them.

Tickets from R345.

21 – 28 October at stadiums in Cape Town, Durban and Johannesburg. computicket.com

Hug a tree

Live through history

This year the Knysna Timber Festival takes on new meaning as we contemplate how close we came to losing the famous forests in the ires earlier this year (15 688 hectares gone, 29% of the total plantation area of the Southern Cape). The venue, Timber Village, burnt down but the festival is going ahead. Meet the woodworkers and see ‘how #KnysnaRises and works together’ (for instance, the Woodoc Owl Box Project has provided shelter for hundreds of creatures left without habitat). There will be DIY workshops, forest displays, expert speakers, the latest tools and kids’ activities plus live music, a beer tent and a surprise or two (last year it was the Fatstix bicycle made of wood). Free entry. 29 September – 1 October. timberfestival.co.za

Every year ‘Boers’ and ‘Brits’ meet in Dundee to re-enact the Battle of Talana (in which a young Winston Churchill and Mahatma Gandhi were both involved) – on the exact day it happened 118 years ago. You can go on a ghost walk up the hill on the Friday night, or gate-crash the army camps for good food, drink and a campire singalong.

A family-friendly fest, Talana Live ofers street parades, markets, dress-up photo booths and vintage cars, plus the Talana Tattoo will be staged for the irst time on Saturday night (drum-and-brass, we like to call it) and on the Sunday the irst-ever Gun Run (in which teams attempt to pull a 1.3-ton cannon up the hill).

Tickets R20 to R50. 20 – 22 October. talana.co.za

This month’s most travel-worthy events

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20 OCTOBER 2017

ESCAPE NEIGHBOURHOOD

Kloof, Durban Discover this serene green pocket of KZN’s capital. It’s most famous for the train trips that depart from the old station, so we asked railway enthusiast ASHLEY PETER to give us a local’s tour

DINING OUT Chairman of Umgeni Steam Railway ‘I’m a founder member of USR, so I’ve been a volunteer for all of its 35 years of existence. I keep an eye on proceedings whenever the trains run. I usually also perform the duties of train guard, so you will probably see me shouting “all aboard”, blowing whistles and waving lags about. Durban is a great city, but when the humidity gets a bit too much, take a short drive up to Kloof – it’s drier here. It’s a leafy and quiet suburb, with no industrial activity and surrounded by undisturbed indigenous bush and forest. There are tremendous views over the nearby gorge towards the north, while the city and ocean can be seen below in the distance to the east.’ Kloof Station, Old Main Road

HAVE A DRINK ‘Stokers Arms is a popular watering hole in the old train station (built 1912), known for its selection of craft beers. USR’s members often wind down here. The food is hearty and afordable too.’ Old Main Road, 031-764-6706

‘Bellevue Café is modern and family-friendly. Chef Chris Black is known for his consistently superb dishes.

The pasta is excellent and I can’t resist the mouthwatering liquid-centred chocolate puddings.’

5 Bellevue Road, 031-717-2780

A NIGHT OUT ‘Tina’s Hotel, formerly the Beryldene dating from the 1940s, has a warm and cosy bar. There’s also a small theatre – an extension of the Rhumbelow in Umbilo. It often hosts local musicians and comedians, which I enjoy going to.’ 14 Beryldene Road, 031-764-7843

Supplied, illustrations by Leo Abrahams

TAKE A RIDE ‘Umgeni Steam Railway has developed over the years into a favourite outing for Durban families. Running on the last Sunday of every month (and certain special weekends), if ofers a genuine, old-time steam train experience, with a 1938 Class 19D locomotive and wooden carriages from the same era, making the 50km round trip from Kloof Station via the Valley of a Thousand Hills to Inchanga. The train spends at least an hour at Inchanga, where there’s a craft market, shady picnic areas, fun activities for kids and model trains at the station. Just up the stairs is the old Station Master’s House, dating from 1895, which has been turned into a museum.’ Bookings 082-353-6003. umgenisteamrailway.com

GREAT OUTDOORS ‘Makaranga Lodge has Zimbabwean stone art and Italian sculptures in a magniicent garden setting.

Sometimes there are music concerts here.’ 1 Igwababa Road, 031-764-6616 ‘Krantzkloof Reserve has picnic sites, guided nature trails and breathtaking views across Kloof Gorge.’

152 Kloof Falls Road, kknr.org.za

the kwa-ximba trail run for nature (15 october) is in the new conservancy near inchanga. kloofconservancy.org.za getaway.co.za 21

ESCAPE GEAR

HEADS UP

T E ST E D TH IS M O NTH

This new headlamp will save you money on batteries. MELANIE VAN ZYL tested it out

TIP Turn the Actik Core headlamp into a gleaming lantern by placing it into the Petzl Noctilight case.

No bigger than a tennis ball, this compact zip-up case efectively difuses light and hangs easily from a tree or tent loop.

The case can also be used for other Petzl headlamp models. R299, campandclimb.co.za

Sadiqah Assur-Ismail

Whether you’re a hiker, camper or trail runner a decent headlamp must combine power and durability in a lightweight, and preferably afordable, package. The new Petzl Actik Core is all of these, and charges via USB cable too. Petzl estimates that during the lifetime of a headlamp about 900 batteries get used – I don’t know how true this is, but even if you save 50 batteries it’s a win for your pocket and the environment. This little light weighs just 80g, but packs a hefty punch emitting 350 lumens of light (most headlamps in this price range peak at just 200) with a maximum beam distance of 95m. It’s easy to operate and features include white, red and dim lights plus an SOS whistle built into the comfy head strap.

The whistle is kind of gimmicky, but could be useful on trail running or night-hiking excursions where safety is a concern. Primarily rechargeable, the headlamp can also work of three ordinary AAA batteries in emergencies.

Incredible brightness and beam control makes this new piece of headgear above average in almost every category, plus the Actik Core has a IPX4 water-resistant rating, so it’s splash-proof. R799, capeunionmart.co.za

22 OCTOBER 2017

ESCAPE INSIDE GETAWAY Tyson Jopson

The first rule of hike club

Teagan Cunnife, Chris Davies

Who can you trust when you’ve got your head in the clouds?

‘Why do we climb mountains?’ If you’re one of the authors of this month’s hiking features (Rwenzoris, page 82; Langeberg, page 46; Golden Gate, page 66), the answer lies somewhere between solitude and conquest.

If you’re the eminent mountaineer George Mallory, the answer is one you’ve likely heard before. ‘Because it’s there,’ he famously said to a New York Times journalist in 1923, shortly before he disappeared trying to summit Everest. Simple, eloquent and, frankly, a bit pithy for a man who reportedly read passages of Keats to fellow climbers as motivation. I can’t think of anything more unbearable. In fact, I suspect it had something to do with his disappearance; I think his climbing partner simply couldn’t stand his wafling enumerations any longer and shoved him into an abyss.

Anyway, the question of why we climb mountains has been dealt with ad nauseam. So much so that it’s taken our eyes off another important question: ‘Why do other people climb mountains?’

See, mountains are glorious but also treacherous and often your only help is from people around you. In my seven years of climbing mountains for Getaway I’ve discovered that, broadly speaking, you’re likely to meet seven types of people who climb them for seven different reasons. Now look, I don’t like to stereotype. I know that you are all very special snowlakes; complex individuals with such speciic interests that there’s just no way you’re part of the same lot who fell for the craft beer revolution, or did the Macarena, or owned a lava lamp. But this is about survival.

And to survive, you need to know who you can, and cannot, trust.

The family of tourists. I know this is strictly not one person but it operates as a unit and will thus react as one. But it is too distracted and fraught with internal dilemmas – herding its younger units away from ledges, negotiating terms with its teenage ones or grunting at its elders’ lack of pace – to even notice your emergency. You’re better off trying to signal the attention of a rock.

The kitchen sinker. This person brings everything. It’s only a half-day doddle up the Magaliesberg, but they’ve got a picnic blanket, a basket of cheeses, cutlery for six and two books because they’re not sure what mood they’ll be in at the top. They rarely make it to the top. If you get down quick enough there might still be some leftover cheese in the parking lot.

The selie-taker. Don’t go near these people. They’re there for fame and will back themselves off a ledge for a good pic if that’s what it takes.

And they will take you with them.

The athleisure strider. You’ll ind these specimens around foothills and low-altitude forests (Cape Town’s Constantia is a prime location).

They’re identiiable by their neon plumage and faithful adherence to brand names ‘because the products were developed to work together’.

The only help you’ll get from them is the location of a good bargain.

The still-drunk student. When they charged their glass ‘to climbing Laaaan’s Head!’ the previous night, everyone thought they were joking.

Yet there they are, halfway up the chain ladders, wearing jeans and Sambuca-stained elbows. It won’t be long before they sober up and realise this was a bad idea. You need to give them water. You are their help.

The trail runner. Whoosh. ‘What was that?’ You can’t get help from something you can’t even see.

The mountain goat. ‘This is the one!’ you think. They’ve got a belt that can hold three water bottles, a topographical map tucked into their two-piece hiking pants and the glint of someone who knows their way around a buttress. You’re wrong.

They may know an escape route but it’s unnavigable for regular humans.

Follow them and you’ll probably end up as a smudge on some scenery.

So who can you rely on? I don’t know. Your best bet is to approach a hike the way you would an interview for a band of bank robbers: trust nobody. Especially if you’re the type of person who likes to recite poetry.

getaway.co.za 23

PHOTOGRAPHY EXPERT TIPS TO CREATING BETTER PICTURES

a red spotlight ilter Ask your guide to use ipped) when searching equ be l wil s nal (professio turb them less dis l It’l ls. ma for ani

24 OCTOBER 2017

SECTION NAME

Take it yourself Knowing your equipment and exactly what you want are the key to getting good nocturnal shots. Here’s how to make the most of them

MASTERCLASS

HOW TO NAIL NIGHT-DRIVE SHOTS Capture stunning images of nocturnal wildlife with these tips from Getaway’s TEAGAN CUNNIFFE, inspired by this capture from wildlife photographer Mark Dumbleton

Mark says…

Sabi Sands Game Reserve is a magnificent place to photograph leopards at night. One evening we found this male patrolling his territory.

We followed him with a preconceived idea of the type of image we wanted to create. The vehicle next to us was in the perfect position to light him from the side, creating a sense of depth.

Equipment Settings Nikon D3X, Nikon 200-400mm f/4, ISO 200, f/4 and 1/250 sec MARK’S TIP Familiarise yourself with your camera’s controls and learn how to quickly adapt your exposure to the scene as the animal moves closer to, or further away from, the spotlight.

Good locations Kruger National Park– great for big cats, owls and spotted hyena.

Addo Elephant Park– guided sunset drives last into the evenings. Look out for elephant and jackal. iSimangaliso Wetlands Park – in season you can take a guided night drive on the beach to look for turtles.

Augrabies Falls and Mokala National Parks – great for unusual creatures such as aardvark and aardwolf.

EQUIPMENT DSLR Zoom lenses with wide apertures (f/4 and wider) work best. A 70-200mm f/2.8 is perfect.

Compact Switching to night-scene mode (most new compact cameras have one) is your best option, but the slow shutter speed may result in blurry images.

SETTINGS Set your camera to manual mode, shutter speed to 1/125 sec, aperture to f/4 and ISO to 400. Take a test shot. If the image is still too dark, increase your ISO or widen your aperture (don’t reduce your shutter speed) until the brightest part of your image is decently exposed. Take care not to increase your ISO too much. Higher ISO settings result in grainier images. Test your camera’s limits by taking shots on ascending settings (400, 800, 1600 etc) and zooming in to evaluate the grain.

Use a bean bag to reduce camera shake.

PRACTICAL Tell your guide what you want to capture. They are trained in locating and safely lighting animals after dark.

Ask your guide to bounce torch light of foliage or water to indirectly illuminate your subject. Relected light makes for better ambience (but most often requires higher ISO settings) and is easier on your subject’s eyes.

Set up a ‘low-key’ portrait (explained on the next page in ‘Know your Stuf’).

Zoom in to exclude any distracting background elements, keeping focus on the animal’s eyes and face.

STARTER TIP Use burst mode. Multiple shots in quick succession will increase your chance of getting a sharp capture.

AMATEUR TIP Exclude man-made elements (such as roads) as much as possible to keep the focus on wildlife and its environment.

PRO TIP Experiment with sidelighting and backlighting (using light from another vehicle, like Mark has done in this image, is the best way to do this) to create drama and interest in your wildlife portraits.

PHOTOGRAPHY MASTERCLASS

to low-key ated paintings similar Renaissance artists cre aroscuro’ – ‘chi led cal que hni h a tec images like this one wit cure/dark obs ng ani me ght and ‘scuro’ ‘chiaro’ meaning clear/li

Know your stuf What are high-key and low-key images?

And how can you best use them to your advantage?

A high-key image (above) has very little contrast. Overall, high-key images are light and bright and generally have little to no shadow or large variances between their high, low and mid tones. This creates a dreamy scene with a light mood.

Create it by inding a bright background with lots of ambient light and exposing for your subject. Amplify it further by pushing your exposure compensation up by a stop.

A low-key image (right) has a great deal of contrast. Overall, it is dark with dramatic variances between high and low tones.

Generally, light is used to reveal just a portion of the subject – the rest is dark.

This creates a sombre, serious mood.

Create it by using a dark background and exposing part of your subject with a light source (torch). Drop your exposure compensation to further amplify contrast.

This is the last month to pre-order your copy of Remembering Rhinos, which will be released on 30 October 2017. The 144-page book is a compilation of images donated by 65 photographers, with all proceeds going to rhino protection projects. From R763 (pre-order price). rememberingrhinos.com The Photo and Film Expo is being held at the Ticketpro Dome in Johannesburg from 27 – 29 October. The latest in photographic gear, safaris and information will be on display, as well as free photo workshops. From R80.

Tickets available at the door or webtickets.co.za.

26 OCTOBER 2017

iStockphoto.com, Art Wolfe/Remembering Rhinos

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28 OCTOBER 2017

Getaway Gallery Africa’s premier photography competition

FINALIST

Splash of Colour While I was waiting for mammals to drink at Terrapin Hide in Madikwe Game Reserve, ive European beeeaters came to bath.

After failing to track one, I pre-focused on an area where they regularly splashed and waited for one to come through my focal plane. This image is one of only two that I got in focus.

– By John Mullineux, Secunda Canon 7D Mark II, Canon 100-400mm LII, ISO 400, f/5.6, 1/3200 sec

FINALIST

Shade I found this male cheetah warming up in the early morning light in Kwandwe Private Game Reserve. I wanted to capture the beautiful light and shadows on his face, and waited until the sun caught and lit up his eyes. – By Ruan Springorum, Grahamstown Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 400mm f/2.8L, ISO 100, f/2.8, 1/640 sec 30 OCTOBER 2017

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLERY

FINALIST

David and Goliath This goliath heron was ishing in Botswana’s Chobe River, at irst light. I captured the image just as it fumbled its catch.

– By Clint Ralph, Pretoria East Canon 1DX Mark II, Canon 600mm f/4, ISO 200, f/4, 1/1600 sec getaway.co.za 31

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLERY

FINALIST

Upon Reflection The image was taken at Okaukuejo Waterhole in Namibia’s Etosha National Park. I waited and watched as several zebra came down to quench their thirst. I was thrilled that all seven were drinking simultaneously. The early morning light was more than kind to me, producing this beautiful relection.

– By Braeme Holland, Cape Town Canon 7D Mark II, Canon 300mm f/4, ISO 500, f/4, 1/640 sec

getaway.co.za 33

PHOTOGRAPHY GALLERY

FINALIST

The Ultimate On our afternoon game drive in the Sabi Sands, we found this young female leopard. We had seen her the previous year, bounding about in play with her mom. Now here she was, on this overcast afternoon, able to hunt and survive on her own. She jumped onto a fallen leadwood tree and climbed up into the branches. When she descended, we were in the perfect spot to capture her stealth and power.

– By Richard McKibbin, Umhlanga Rocks Nikon D600, Nikkor 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6, ISO 640, f/5, 1/640 sec

FINALIST

Dreamy Lookout While staying at Mata-Mata Rest Camp in the Kgalagadi National Park, our neighbours were an adorable meerkat family. The sentry fascinated me the most, and I like to think I caught this one while daydreaming, even if just for a moment. The wind pulling gently on its coat really adds a surreal feel to the image.

– By Tinus von Wielligh, Lothair Canon 70D, Canon 400mm f/5.6, ISO 100, f/5.6, 1/1250 sec

34 OCTOBER 2017

WIN

Travel packages with Enter the 2017 Getaway Gallery and you could win these amazing prizes!

GRAND PRIZE

A Pangolin photo safari in Botswana for two worth R100 000* + one of the three gear hampers below worth up to R29 790 each

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3 PP S R14 3A4 LID V

8 2017/201

WILDLIFE PRIZE worth R28 385 The prize includes: • a Lowepro ProTactic 450 AW backpack; • a Manfrotto MMXPROA3 monopod; • a Tamron SP 150-600mm f/5-6.3 Di VC USD G2 Lens.

ZANZIBAR DELIGHT

LANDSCAPE PRIZE worth R29 790 The prize includes: • a Parrot Bebop 2 FPV kit with Parrot Bebop 2 drone, FPV glasses, controller; • a Tamron SP 15-30mm f/2.8 Di VC USD lens.

3 NIGH

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CULTURE PRIZE worth R27 785

VA LID

The prize includes: • a Lowepro Flipside Trek BP 450 AW backpack; • a Manfrotto MK055XPRO3-3W tripod kit with a three-way head; • a Tamron SP 85mm f/1.8 Di VC USD lens.

HOW TO ENTER Email your entries (about 1MB in size, maximum ive per month) with your name and contact details to gallery@getaway.co.za. Include a title, some information on how and where you took it, and details on the camera, lens make and model. *Find full details of the prize, restrictions, travel dates and competition rules at getaway.co.za/photo.

INCLUDES: Return lights ex JHB, airport taxes, airport transfers, 7 nights at Hakuna Majiwe Beach Lodge, all inclusive

S

2017

DON’T MISS THE DATE Entries for 2017 Getaway Gallery competition close on 15 October 2017. Images submitted after this date will automatically be entered into 2018 Getaway Gallery competition.

ZAMBEZI BREAK INCLUDES: Return lights ex JHB, airport taxes, airport transfers, 3 nights at Sussi and Chuma, all meals, soft drinks, Victoria Falls tour, two activities per day

Contact Claudia on 021-530-3380 or travel@getaway.co.za For more packages visit getaway.co.za/travel * Prices are subject to currency luctuations * * High season supplements may apply

FOOD YOUR TRAVEL KITCHEN MADE EASY

One sauce, many suppers Make this killer Italian tomato sauce and take it along on a weekend away.

You’ll be able to whip up these three delicious dishes (and more) WORDS & STYLING BY FOOD EDITOR NIKKI WERNER PHOTOGRAPHS & WINE ADVICE BY BRANDON DE KOCK

36 OCTOBER 2017

e SauceSauce TNapoletana This favourite recipe, included in our book cook.better, was handed down from chefs Giorgio Locatelli via Peter Tempelhof.

Set aside a good two-and-a-half hours to make it • 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil • 3 large onions, very inely chopped • sea salt • 800g tin whole or chopped tomatoes • 5 black olives, pitted • 1 branch basil • freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oil in a medium-size pot over low heat. Add the onions and a teaspoon of salt. Put the lid on and let the onions sweat.

After 20 minutes they will be one amalgamated mass (with a semblance of crunch) and the olive oil will have separated out.

Take the lid of and keep cooking and stirring on low heat for another 10 minutes, until the onions are softer and a deep golden colour.

After an hour the onions will start to stick to the bottom of the pot. Stir well and add the tomatoes and olives.

Simmer on low heat until the tomatoes break down and the sauce thickens – about an hour.

Keep stirring so it doesn’t ‘catch’ (burn). If it gets too thick, add a little water.

Add the basil, season with salt and pepper, and pass through a mouli twice for a smooth sauce.

SAUCE NOTES

enough for a pasta One batch of sauce is for four, or meatballs al me alls atb meal plus me m sandwiches. par n cke chi s for eight plu recipes the for e Turn the pag

• Mastering this sweet, rich Napoletana sauce relies on fully caramelising onions to balance the acidity of tinned tomatoes (so there’s no need to add sugar).

• To keep it red, pass the sauce through a vegetable mill or mouli.

Or chop the onions super-fine and use a potato masher at the end.

Blending in a food processor or with a hand-held blender will turn the sauce orange.

• Make ahead and freeze (it can be used as an ice block in your cooler box) or make at your destination – all the ingredients travel well. getaway.co.za 37

FOOD TOMATO SAUCE

l a b s t a e M h t i w …

Comfort food for a crowd. Get the kids to shape the meatballs.

Serve with mashed potato or freshly cooked pasta rice (risoni) tossed with olive oil, sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Or make meatball sub sandwiches. Feeds 8 (makes about 80 meatballs) • 1 medium onion • 1 cup stale white bread, cut into chunks • ¾ – 1 cup milk • 1T minced fresh garlic • sea salt lakes • 1kg beef mince • 2T inely chopped parsley • 2t sea salt • plenty of ground black pepper • 1T extra-virgin olive oil • 1 egg, lightly beaten • 80g inely grated Pecorino (or Parmesan or Grana Padano) • 1 batch Napoletana sauce

Peel the onion and process in a food processor until pulpy and liqueied. In a shallow bowl, cover the bread with milk and leave to soak.

Put the minced garlic on a board, sprinkle with sea salt lakes and grind to a pulp using the face of a knife blade.

Place the mince and onion in a bowl. Squeeze out the bread slightly and add it to the bowl, then the rest of the ingredients (except the sauce). Mix with a fork until just combined.

Shape the mixture into balls a little larger than a walnut in the shell. Arrange on a baking sheet lined with foil or baking paper.

Preheat the oven to 230˚C with the rack in the middle.

Bake the meatballs for 5 – 7 minutes until just cooked through and lightly browned.

Collect any juices from the baking sheet for tipping into the tomato sauce later. Refrigerate, along with the meatballs, until required.

To serve, tip the Napoletana sauce into a large pan or pot. Add the meatballs (plus reserved cooking juices) and simmer gently over medium to medium-low heat for about 20 minutes, until they are completely heated through.

… with Pasta Serves 4

• 500g penne rigate or rigatoni • sea salt • ½ batch Napoletana sauce • sea salt lakes and freshly ground black pepper Fill a large pot to the brim with water, put the lid on and bring to a galloping boil. Add the pasta and then lots of salt.

Once the water comes back to the boil, cook the pasta for exactly seven minutes. Drain the pasta (don’t rinse) and add back to the pot.

Add the Napoletana sauce and cook briely, over medium-high heat, stirring, until the pasta is well coated. Serve immediately, sprinkled with salt and pepper.

3 MORE IDEAS

• When aubergines peak in mid- to late summer, use the sauce for melanzane parmigiana.

• Make the eggs from Getaway March 2017, using Napoletana sauce instead of the spicy tomato sauce.

• Save any leftover sauce for spooning onto cheeseburgers.

38 OCTOBER 2017

CE

DO

H RT

IN

W

…

n Parm Sandwich e k c i h C as a

N-TO-EA W

E ADVI

WHAT WINE? Sangiovese. Go on, say it out loud: SUN-joe-vay-zay. Doesn’t your tomato taste better already? The edible fruits of the nightshade family tend to be rather acidic, and if there’s one basic wine-pairing rule worth obeying it’s this: match the acidity of the wine with that of the food. So for white fans, Sauvignon Blanc is an obvious contender. For lovers of red, start singing the praises of the Italians for working out that Sangiovese, the primary component of their classic Chianti wines, dances beautifully with tomatoes – the primary ingredient in many of their most famous dishes.

Heady, spicy, meaty and savoury things tend to happen in bottles of Sangiovese and when the balance of fruit and acidity is bang on, it’s amore in a bottle, miei amici.

WHAT LABEL?

A hearty lunch or Sunday night supper.

Ready-made, shop-bought schnitzels are ine to use but homemade will be so much better. Makes 4 sandwiches • 1 soft white Italian-style loaf • extra-virgin olive oil • sea salt lakes and black pepper • 4 chicken schnitzels • 3 ladles Napoletana sauce • 150g grated mozzarella • 50g Parmesan, inely grated Slice the loaf in half horizontally. Brush each cut face with olive oil and sprinkle with salt. Grill until toasted and golden.

Place the schnitzels on the bottom half, overlapping slightly if necesary. Season with salt and pepper. Ladle over the Napoletana sauce.

Sprinkle over the mozzarella, leaving some of the schnitzel edges and tomato sauce exposed. Sprinkle Parmesan on top of the mozzarella.

Grill the illed bottom half until the cheese is golden and bubbling. Cover with the top half, cut into four and serve immediately.

HOMEMADE SCHNITZELS • Place a chicken breast on a board and put one hand on top to hold it down.

Carefully cut through the meat horizontally (with a large, sharp knife) so that you have two equal halves.

• Cover each half with clingwrap and tap with a rolling pin until the meat is evenly lattened and 5mm thick. Repeat with other breast halves.

• Beat an extra-large egg with 1T Dijon mustard in a shallow bowl. Whisk in 1t salt and 1t ground black pepper. Spread 1 cup super-ine breadcrumbs on a plate. Pour 2T lour onto another plate.

• Press both sides of the chicken breasts into the lour to coat evenly and shake of any excess. Dip each loured illet into the egg mixture so it’s well coated.

Let the excess run of, then drop the illet in the crumbs and press both sides to coat evenly.

• Heat 3T vegetable oil in a large pan on medium-high. Fry the crumbed illets for about 2 minutes a side until golden brown. Drain them on paper towel.

Classy partner Stanford’s familyowned Raka vineyards were irst planted with Sangiovese back in 2001.

The 2014 is an elegant, spicy afair with hints of tomato-ness on the nose and palate. R100 a bottle, and as good an example as you’ll ind of how local winemakers can lovingly coax the best out of Italy’s most-loved grape variety.

The green wine Year after year, Morgenster owner Giulio Bertrand coaxes some very special wines out of his prized 1,8 hectares of the grape.

The result is a super-Tuscan-style, Sangiovese-driven blend called the Tosca (R200+), plus an estate label single variety for 2017 and, my favourite, the Nu Series 1 Sangiovese 2015. Calling it ‘entry level’ is insulting: it’s a cherry-bomb of a wine for just R102.

The best-value wine Aan de Doorns R43 Crisp White, a 50/50 mix of Sauvignon Blanc and Colombard, lives up to its name. It’s fresh and lemony, and at R28 a bottle it’s no wonder this wine, together with its equally cheeky sister the R43 Fruity White, were Best Value winners in 2017.

• For more options, see Getaway’s bestvaluewineguide.com.

THE FINAL CUT PUTTING TRIPADVISOR TO THE TEST, WE RATE THE BEST BEDS

EXPERT REVIEWS BY PIPPA DE BRUYN PHOTOGRAPHS BY TEAGAN CUNNIFFE 40 OCTOBER 2017

30 13 SELECTED

INSPECTED

Clarens THIS FREE STATE TOWN OFFERS CITY-SLICKER SOPHISTICATION AND NATURAL SPLENDOUR. AND WHEN A PLACE IS THIS POPULAR, IT’S BEST TO BOOK AHEAD TO GET THESE TOP-NOTCH SPOTS TO STAY

HOW TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t ofer a comparative voice so how do we know Number 1 is really the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years for the likes of Frommer’s and The Telegraph, scours TripAdvisor and other online sites when researching a destination.

For Clarens, she created a longlist of 30 to inspect. The following made the cut.

WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR?

• An artistic mansion for a big group (pg 42) • A storybook country cottage (pg 42) • A nature-loving family house (pg 43) • Garden cottages with room service (pg 43) • Something small and cute (pg 44) • The best place on the village square (pg 44) • A lovely bargain B&B (pg 45) • Luxury and romance (pg 45)

WHAT I FOUND ABOUT ACCOMMODATION HERE

Crystal-clear mountain water pours into this inviting pool at Ridge Road Estate.

DON’T MISS THIS • The seven easy walks in the Clarens Village Conservancy. (The Scilla Trail is in full bloom with blue flowers at this time of year, and Kloof Dam is the spot to swim.)

• A half-day river-rafting trip on the Ash River, available year round.

R500 pp (R400 kids).

083-485-9654 • Foraging at the dozen or so delis, bakeries and food shops.

• Buy a Basotho blanket at De Jager & Di Mezza general dealer (trading since 1946).

• Free tastings at Clarens Brewery.

• Exploring Golden Gate National Park (see our guide on page 66).

• Winter and summer, this is one busy town, not suitable for last-minute plans. As one guesthouse owner said, ‘If you’re thinking of visiting Clarens, book when the thought occurs.’

• Most places discount Monday to Thursday. But in Clarens that just means midweek is soon snapped up too. There is often a two-night minimum stay required on weekends.

• Thankfully there is a lot of stock, and a lot of it is good.

I thought self-catering trumped as a category, though there were a number of good B&Bs, many with self-catering facilities too. No great hotels – only two on ofer, and neither made my inal list.

• I focused mostly on options walking distance to the town square where all the action is (but the out-of-town options selected are well worth the drive). Those south of Main Road have the beautiful views of the distant Malotis, but the north side – towards the Clarens Village Conservancy and Rooiberge – is more peaceful.

• Most roads are still untarred, some have potholes, so take care if you’re not in a 4x4.

• Mountain Odyssey is a great local booking agency, with around 140 properties listed, with prices ranging from R350 to R500 pp a night. Give Gavin Schoeman a call on 082-654-9989, infoclarens.com. getaway.co.za 41

THE FINAL CUT CLARENS BEST FOR A LARGE GROUP

Ridge Road Estate UNLISTED ON TRIPADVISOR This Provence-style country house enjoys a gorgeous setting on a sandstone ridge on a 28-hectare tract of land nine kilometres from Clarens. The star of the show is the natural rock swimming pool – crystal-clear river water pours in and drops of the ledge down into the gulley below. A shaded terrace next to the pool houses a large dining table that has surely seen some epic gatherings. Designed by artists Simon Addy and Lyn Hoyle (their work on the walls is fabulous), the layout is rather higgledy-piggledy and organic, with multiple levels: the Aga stove, underloor heating and long table make the kitchen the heart of the home, but there are also two open-plan lounges on separate levels. Four of the six bedrooms are en-suite – some have cupboard-tiny showers, others are roomy walk-ins. There is also a lovely three-bedroom Karoo-style cottage on the estate, with a small dam-style pool and fabulous outside lounge.

ROOM TIP Not an easy house to share if you’re splitting the bill equitably – best draw lots.

Room 1 downstairs has the best shower and underloor heating. Room 6 upstairs has the largest bathroom, a ireplace and separate entrance. It’s not suitable for toddlers.

COST House R6 000 (sleeps 12). Cottage R3 300 (sleeps six). Weekday rates negotiable.

CONTACT 084-656-1832, ridgeroad.co.za

BEST ALL-ROUNDER

The French Cottage UNLISTED This double-storey stone cottage is on the ive-hectare remains of one of the original three farms that pre-dated the development of the village. It feels rural – sprawling grounds are dotted with established trees; a river path meanders to a large overhang; the striated clifs of the Rooiberge and a natural waterfall are literally in your backyard – yet it’s a 15-minute walk to the village square. The open-plan kitchen/dining/living area and main en-suite bedroom are upstairs, with cute cottage-pane windows illed with views of your rural idyll. This upstairs level is reached via an external staircase, while the two downstairs bedrooms each have their own 42 OCTOBER 2017

entrance directly from the garden, and share a bathroom. Like the ideal life partner, it’s gorgeous both inside and out – the original owner was an interior decorator – and afordable.

Lovely Julia Brownlee believes in keeping the cottage occupied, so it’s one of the cheapest stays in Clarens.

ROOM TIP It’s possible for a couple to rent out only the upstairs level, and Monday to Thursday Julia charges R1 000 a night for this, making it the most afordable romantic pied-à-terre in Clarens. Maybe even the country!

COST From R1 560 a night for four, R390 pp extra (sleeps six).

CONTACT 072-291-0685, wheretostay.co.za

BEST-VALUE LARGE FAMILY HOUSE

Chanticleer UNLISTED Karen and Richard James fell in love with Clarens 18 years ago and decided to build a weekend getaway that they would one day retire to. ‘Lucky’ is how they describe themselves, and they sure found the perfect spot: adjoining the Clarens Village

Conservancy, your hiking trail starts when you step of the veranda. The house is geared for nature lovers – there is no TV, and the atmosphere utterly tranquil, yet the bustling town centre is a four-minute walk away. The barn-style design with sandstone detailing is attractive; there’s a doublevolume open-plan lounge warmed by an eye-level ireplace, which is open to the

dining-kitchen space. Two bathrooms service the three bedrooms and loft space (which has two single beds, good for children or teens).

ROOM TIP All the bedrooms have double beds; the main bedroom is en suite and has a ireplace.

COST From R1 200 a night (sleeps eight).

CONTACT 058-256-1173, infoclarens.com

BEST OVERALL B&B

Periwinkle Grove Cottages TRIPADVISOR NO. 10 OF 33 SPECIALITY LODGINGS Not to be confused with Periwinkle Blue Guesthouse, these three cottages – recently built but in traditional Clarens sandstone – are located in a rose-illed garden, with mountain and garden views through pretty red-edged cottage-pane windows and the tinkling sound of water next to each one’s outdoor patio. Less than 15 minutes’ stroll from the village square, the Periwinkle cottages combine proximity with tranquillity, and ofer much more privacy than the average B&B. Each cottage has a Weber and a kitchenette, giving you more lexibility too. They are serviced

daily and wood for the ireplace is replenished on demand. Best of all, you enjoy the decadence of breakfast in your PJs – hosts Chris Green and Andrew Flitton make a wonderful hot meal and it’s delivered to your cottage on a portable bain-marie at whatever time you specify.

ROOM TIP I liked the room arrangement and views from Grove Cottage, but if you are more than two people then Bella Rosa is the one to book.

COST From R1 384 for two sharing B&B, from R2 305 for four sharing B&B. CONTACT 058-256-1000, periwinklecottages.co.za getaway.co.za 43

THE FINAL CUT CLARENS

BEST SMALL COTTAGE

JessHil UNLISTED Situated on the corner of quiet Lake Clarens Drive, this cute two-bedroom sandstone cottage is a village option that doesn’t feel hemmed in by a suburban streetscape. The little raised stoep is where you’ll want to spend your days: sitting on your bench, with a ire blazing in the built-in braai, your view is of cypresses and mountains, a pond and bird-illed dam on the other side of the track – hard to believe the bustle of the village is just a ive-minute walk away. Interior inishes are rustic (unplastered brick walls), the decor is basic (if this is important, French Cottage is a better bet) and the design is compact: two en-suite bedrooms on either side of a smallish lounge/dining/kitchen area, easily warmed by a central Jetmaster.

ROOM TIP Both bedrooms are en suite and have queen-size beds, so suitable for two couples or a small family with kids young enough to share a bed.

COST From R900 for two or R1 400 for four.

CONTACT 058-256-1173, infoclarens.com

BEST ON THE SQUARE

1. Highland Quarters TRIPADVISOR NO. 14 OF 33 SPECIALITY LODGINGS It’s rather wonderful to be just a few steps from your front door after dinner/drinks, and wander into the bustle of the weekend without having to ind parking. It’s partly why Clarens is so popular, as the village square and main road are lined with good

44 OCTOBER 2017

lodgings. For a B&B, my top choice is Highland Quarters (pictured below) – I liked the uncluttered, tasteful decor, and that it has a great on-site whisky lounge and restaurant (The Highlander).

ROOM TIP Room 1 has the best view; room 9 is the most spacious.

COST From R550 pp sharing B&B. CONTACT 074-473-7565, wheretostayinclarens.co.za

2. La Poste UNLISTED If you prefer self-catering then this is the most delightful little loft apartment for two.

It has a small balcony with a table and Weber braai overlooking a courtyard and the main street, and is well decorated by its artist owners. Super romantic and great value.

COST R1 070 a night.

CONTACT 084-656-1832, ridgeroad.co.za

BEST-VALUE B&B

Millpond House TRIPADVISOR NO. 4 OF 38 B&BS / INNS

Supplied

I liked Millpond for its gorgeous garden, tasteful albeit slightly old-fashioned decor, quiet location and generous touches like the underloor heating – given that there is the option of a room-only rate, the level of luxury here is a bargain.

There is a choice of ive rooms: three B&B rooms in the Millpond House, and two adjoining studios in Mill Creek Cottage that also ofer the lexibility of self-catering, each with a ireplace and French doors opening onto a private patio and Merri Mills’ wonderful garden. The two

WORTH A LOOK Sunnyside Guest Farm You’ll ind 80-something Mrs Boland still helping to prepare the meals and daily tea ritual that are part of the excellent-value package here. Not much has changed since she and her husband took over the farm 60 years ago – furnishings, ittings and atmosphere of the sandstone cottages and homestead ill one with nostalgia. R650 pp sharing full board. 058-256-1099, clarens.co.za

downstairs Millpond House B&B rooms also ofer direct garden access with seating, but the plum is upstairs in the aptly named Room with a View, which has a small balcony and chairs from which to enjoy the garden and mountain views.

No children under 12.

ROOM TIP Rose and Walnut in Mill Creek Cottage are worth the extra R50 pp a night for the space and self-catering facilities.

COST From R450 pp sharing (B&B R550 pp sharing).

CONTACT 082-851-0131, millpondhouse.net

Red Mountain House Just six rooms in this small, comfortable B&B on the village square, each with a ireplace and four-poster bed, plus there’s a self-catering apartment with mountain views – small wonder this spot is often fully booked despite the somewhat fuddy-duddy decor.

Room R655 pp sharing (R830 single) B&B, apartment from R1 100 for two (sleeps four). redmountainhouse.co.za

BEST FOR ROMANCE

Omega Luxury Mountain Retreat TRIPADVISOR NO. 4 OF 33 SPECIALITY LODGINGS There are only four of these open-plan studio-style timber cabins, each with the same magniicent view of the Malotis unmarred by signs of human cultivation or habitation (it’s 17 kilometres from Clarens), and a choice of spots – deck, Jacuzzi or king-size bed – from which to drink it all in. The two luxury cabins are smaller than the deluxe ones and have an outdoor Jacuzzi on the deck; the latter have indoor Jacuzzis and double showers with slide-and-fold doors. Every cabin has a ireplace and

a well-equipped kitchenette.

There is a sleeper couch for one extra adult or two young children, but this really is a place for romance, so book that babysitter and ditch the third wheel.

ROOM TIP ‘All weekends are fully booked for 2017’ reads the banner across the home page of the Omega website, and that kind of says it all. Take whatever you can get.

COST From R650 pp sharing (deluxe cabin from R850 pp).

CONTACT 072-057-7167, omegaclarens.co.za

Clarens Manor This is the best option for a large group wanting to be in town.

Architecturally unprepossessing but the interiors are lovely, with ive virtually identical en-suite bedrooms (that is, easy to share) and great open-plan living spaces, including a really well-equipped kitchen and a veranda and deck with mountain views. From R3 000 a night. 082-859-7915, wheretostay.co.za

Clarens Country House Located on the golf estate opposite town, this old sandstone sheep shed has been cleverly converted into four small ‘apartments’ with glass-enclosed patios – great for sunset drinks as the lights licker on in Clarens. One of the units is a family suite (sleeps four). Breakfast is served in your room. From R650 pp sharing B&B. theclarenscountryhouse.com

getaway.co.za 45

ROAD TRIP SOUTHERN AFRICAN ROUTES WORTH TAKING

e Fold forms part of the Cap The Langeberg range sedimentary layers d ste twi se the and Mountains, tely 500 million years date back approxima

Luminous leucadendrons adorn the lanks of Sleeping Beauty peak, on the far eastern edge of the Langeberg.

DRIVEN TO RAMBLE, DRIVEN TO ROAM

The Langeberg is one of SA’s most beautiful ranges, and it’s even better up close, on foot. Use CHRIS DAVIES’ guide to create your own ive- or seven-day hiking road trip

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ROAD TRIP LANGEBERG

D

rive the southern Langeberg in the late afternoon and it’s easy to believe it’s the most beautiful stretch of mountain in the country.

For 250 kilometres, from Worcester to Mossel Bay, the procession of peaks runs at a near-perfect east-west, and light glances of those south-facing slopes in a way that may be unique in South Africa. And not just because of their orientation. This length of the Cape Fold Mountains forms a watershed so hard to breach that while some south-facing sections receive some of our highest average rainfall, a few kilometres north, the Klein Karoo lies brown and parched, doing the best it can with the leftovers.

Swellendam, Suurbraak, Riversdale. Even the towns – which are far more proliic on this southern side of the range – evoke images of water. As you leave the N1 and follow the R60 east, soft, green slopes rise to your left and you pass one vineyard after another, then dairy farms and their grassy ields, signs for Leeurivier and

48 OCTOBER 2017

Fonteinskloof speeding by. With the sun at your back, the foothills fan out ahead – round, fynbos-covered mounds with darkening kloofs between.

Arriving at Marloth Nature Reserve for the irst overnight stop, the mountains seem higher, now that they’re so close. The last of the sun’s rays catch the tops of the so-called ‘Clock Peaks’ – Een-, Twaalf-, Elf- and Tienuur spread out evenly above. Their summits glow a brief pink, and then it’s only the light from the braai that casts lickering shadows on the cottage wall.

Sunrise the next day reveals the same glory in reverse.

Yellows and golds replace last night’s pinks and reds, and by the time the sun’s climbed high over Twaalfuur peak, we’ve clambered up a densely thicketed gorge where a waterfall keeps an inviting pool clean and fresh. Only when up close do we see how green these mountains are in comparison with the plains below. When the rest of the Cape is experiencing the worst water crisis in years, the mountain streams of the Langeberg continue to gurgle and low.

Back on the road the next morning, the diminutive Jersey cows are made even more miniature against the backdrop of peaks. After a sign to the left, to Barrydale and Tradouw Pass, the road narrows, then abruptly turns

ABOVE The view of the Klein Karoo to the Overberg from Sleeping Beauty peak is absolutely worth the steep hike up.

OPPOSITE, FROM LEFT Bushbuck Cottage is an excellent base for exploring the hidden kloofs of Marloth Nature Reserve; the weather changes fast in Boosmansbos – make sure you have wet-weather clothes and something hot to eat and drink.

to gravel. Farmland gives way to deep stands of forest and, arriving in Grootvadersbosch a few turns later, it’s as if we’ve leapt 300 kilometres east and landed in Tsitsikamma. With a twist and a turn, the road dips beneath a thick canopy of trees, then drops us out at a clutch of brand-new timber cabins. One of these is our cosy home for the night, but just the one night. Tomorrow it’s time to get more acquainted with this protracted berg: an overnight hut in the mountain awaits.

There’s no need for an alarm clock for this early rise; no human could sleep through that explosion of birdsong.

Two bushbuck scatter as we leave the cottage, then turn to regard us as we shoulder our packs and start of through the forest. Soon the trees are far below and the narrow track cuts sweeping turns into the hillside, winding up and over a cleft in the ridge. This is the

Boosmansbos Wilderness Area, 14 200 hectares of pristine Langeberg fynbos that sits immediately behind Grootvadersbosch, with 64 kilometres of unmarked trails for hikers to explore. The most popular route is a two-day overnight trail to two small stone huts, about 15 kilometres into the mountains, although ‘popular’ is stretching it a bit. Few people hike these paths, and the huts are basic to say the least – mere stone shelters in an overgrown dell. A small stream provides tasty, tannin-brown drinking water, and is the only sound besides the breeze.

The setting is simple and appropriate. Boosmansbos gets its name from a 19th-century hermit who led society to live in these hills. Historically, mountains have long provided refuge and retreat, barriers against invaders and hideouts for raiders. From monks to

Ann Selhorst

‘64 kilometres of unmarked trails for hikers to explore’

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ROAD TRIP LANGEBERG

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT The king protea, our national lower, is just one of over 20 species of protea found in the Langeberg; Grootvadersbosch has 11 comfortable self-catering cottages below Boosmansbos; one of the two hikers’ huts in the Boosmansbos Wilderness Area – both are very basic, little more than stone shelters against the changeable elements.

bandits, anyone wishing to get away from it all could ind sanctuary in mountains. These days we have few places left to do so. Mountains, because of their inaccessibility, provide some of our last remaining escapes – some of them even have bubbling streams to drink from too.

As evening draws in, a heavy fog descends with the sun. Night, when it comes, is cold and slightly eerie. Wind moans through the stones, but the hut stays snug and the rough masonry keeps the damp draught out. When morning dawns, it’s hard to tell. The light struggles to penetrate the clinging vapours. When they do go, the mist goes rapidly and, from dull grey to vivid green, the valley’s transformation is sudden and superb. Through drifting cloud, we ramble back down, and by the time we reach the Duiwenhoks River at the base of the trail, it’s hot enough for a much-needed swim, then a return to comfort in Grootvadersbosch’s excellent cabins before hitting the road tomorrow.

50 OCTOBER 2017

Bucolic farmland lines the dirt road from Grootvadersbosch to Riversdale and an owl, startled as we stop to take in the view, bursts from cover and swoops of to ind a more peaceful roost. To the north, we catch our irst glimpse of Sleeping Beauty, the proile of the resting igure clearly visible this close to the range.

That will be today’s challenge: a tough slog up one of the Langeberg’s most easterly summits, for the prize of this long mountain’s most wonderful view.

Through ields of leucadendrons, luminous yellow in the morning light, the trail switches back and forth until, at last, we arrive. From up here the contrast of green and tan is impossible to miss: the 360-degree panorama splits evenly north and south down the Langeberg now, the dry Karoo northwards and lush valleys south. As the sun sinks low over Worcester, the whole mountain’s length turns pink, then purple, and we turn towards home, a good meal and a comfortable bed.

Tyson Jopson, Teagan Cunnife

Huge ferns line Marloth Nature Reserve’s many stream-illed kloofs, a few with pools deep enough for a plunge.

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ROAD TRIP LANGEBERG

Day by Day Do this trip in ive or seven days – seven if you overnight in the Boosmansbos Wilderness Area. For a ive-day trip, stay just one night at Marloth Nature Reserve, then skip the Boosmansbos overnight huts and spend the day exploring the Grootvadersbosch forest instead.

Section 1: Cape Town to Marloth Nature Reserve Distance 250km Allow 6 hours driving and 2 nights in the reserve Turn of the N1 at Worcester and take the R60 towards Robertson.

Turn left onto the Nuy road, then right at Nuy Winery and onto dirt.

Stop at Saggy Stone brewery (1) for lunch and takeaway beers, then continue east to rejoin the tarred R60 through Robertson to Ashton. Take the R62 at Ashton for a quick detour to Cape Dried Fruit Packers (2) in Montagu. Stock up on hiking snacks, then it’s back to the R60 and east along the Langeberg to Marloth Nature Reserve (3).

MARLOTH NATURE RESERVE

Section 2: Marloth to Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve

NEW CABINS AT GROOTVADERSBOSCH

Distance 50km Allow 2½ hours driving and 3 nights in the reserve Have breakfast at Tredici (4) with beautiful Langeberg views, then take the N2 east from Swellendam before turning left to Suurbraak on the R324. Stay on the R324 through Suurbraak – it becomes the R322 to Heidelberg after the Tradouw Pass turnof. 5km past the turnof, the R322 becomes dirt. After another 5km, look out for the Grootvadersbosch/ Boosmansbos (5) signs on the left-hand side.

Section 3: Grootvadersbosch to Sleeping Beauty and Riversdale Distance 110km Allow 2½ hours driving and 1 night in Riversdale Leave Grootvadersbosch early and stop at Delish (6) in Heidelberg for breakfast and takeaway pies for lunch. Drive the Doornkraal road north out of Heidelberg, which becomes dirt after 3km. Continue for 4km then turn right and follow the dirt east towards Riversdale, with beautiful views of Sleeping Beauty peak on your left. In Riversdale, turn left onto the tarred R323 and drive north to the start of the Sleeping Beauty Hiking Trail (7) at Garcia Pass. Hike to the summit, then it’s back down the R323 to Oakdale Cottages (8) for the last night. Cape Town is 3½ hours away along the N2.

52 OCTOBER 2017

HALFWAY UP SLEEPING BEAUTY

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R60

NUY ROAD

turn right at nuy winery 1

R60

Ashton

R62

4

R324

TRADOUW PASS

Boosmansbos Wilderness Area Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve

6

Don't forget your pies!

Heidelberg

DOORNKRAAL ROAD

right turn

7

N2

*Prices correct at time of going to print

N2

TO MOSSEL BAY

8

Riversdale

R323

GARCIA PASS

sleeping beauty peak

hiking lunch. Open for breakfast from 7am daily. 028-722-1850 7 Sleeping Beauty Hiking Trail. Start at the Old Toll House on Garcia Pass.

Allow seven hours for the return summit hike. At time of writing, permit fees were under review. Call Cape Nature for details. 044-802-5300 8 Oakdale Cottages. Cosy accommodation on a dairy farm in Riversdale. Cottages sleep up to six each.

From R300 pp sharing. 082-451-1765

R322

5

overnight huts

Langeberg

Langeberg, with day trails and wonderful birdlife. Book two nonconsecutive nights in a brand-new cottage (from R890 for four) and spend the middle night in a hikers’ hut in the mountains. Boosmansbos is directly north of Grootvadersbosch and the R40 pp daily conservation fee allows overnight access to two simple, stone huts. The 31-kilometre round-trip hike takes seven hours each way. There’s river water, but little else. Take everything you need with you. 021-483-0000 6 Delish. Here a three-egg omelette is R35 and the phenomenal takeaway pies (R30) make for a great

N2

Swellendam

3

Marloth Nature Reserve

decadent waffles

beautiful farmland views

R60

Montagu

snack time

2

trails. The very it can try summiting Twaalfuurkop (1 450 metres) for beautiful views along the Langeberg.

From R785 for four (sleeps six).

R40 pp daily conservation fee.

021-514-1410 4 Tredici. A slice of European cuisine in Swellendam. Delicious Belgian wale with mascarpone cheese, bacon and honey for R69.

Breakfast served until 12pm. Closed Tuesdays. 028-514-2216 5 Grootvadersbosch Nature Reserve and Boosmansbos Wilderness Area. The 250-hectare Grootvadersbosch reserve protects the largest indigenous forest in the

Robertson

Great craft beer

Generous pub fare at reasonable prices (burgers for R80). Takeaway beers from R28 (440 ml). Try the easy-drinking California Steam. Open Friday to Monday, 11am to 4pm.

083-453-3526 2 Cape Dried Fruit Packers. Its Montagu farmstall sells low-priced dried fruits – nectarines for R43 (500g) and nuts of every description.

Open seven days a week until 5pm, 3pm on Sundays. 023-614-1134 3 Marloth Nature Reserve. Stay two nights at Bushbuck Cottage and spend a day at Duivelsbos Waterfall or hiking one of the circular fynbos

1 Saggy Stone Brewery.

Directory

TO CAPE TOWN

N1

Worcester

GEAR

SECTION NAME

TRIED-AND-TESTED PRODUCTS

T S E B THE G N I K HI S T I K S S E M Y N A FOR T E G BUD d o o d an late of f p m r a Aw o r y o ur w a te r f change boiling p a c an p u c g mornin or s – g ou tdo in h t y r o d. e ve o ur m o y y ll ia c o un d e sp e N Z YL f A V IE N eliable MEL A le and r b a d r o f t h re e a e set s o ok war c l e t ra v

54 OCTOBER 2017

BEST DIY KIT

ALUMINIUM CAMPER MESS KIT R89, checkers.co.za VOLUME 1L and 1,5L PACKED SIZE 182 x 136 x 60mm WEIGHT 358g BOIL TIME 500ml water in 6mins A great starter kit, this set of two deep pots doubles as plates. Made from aluminium, the pots are light and conduct heat evenly; however, their sides are thin so they may scratch and dent, and they rattle a little when packed. The folding side handle is long enough to grab easily and secures in place when squeezed – it doesn’t lock into the side of the pot so careful handling is required. These pots work best on a bigger cooker so that the square surface area is more evenly exposed to the lame. There are no lids so boiling time is longer.

Surprisingly, the bottoms didn’t blacken after use, even when heated up very fast for frying, plus they were easy to clean.

UNDER R150 ENAMEL MUG AND GIDGITZ MICRO LOCKING 8CM CARABINER R20, checkers.co.za; and R25, rammountain.co.za Lightweight and unbreakable, this large 250ml cup can double as a decent-size cereal bowl.

It’s non-stick, easy to wipe clean and can be clipped to your pack with Gidgitz’s carabiner. You can buy cheaper clips, but this one has a screw-gate locking mechanism and is strong enough to carry more than one item at a time.

NOTE The Campingaz Bleuet Micro Gas Stove plus the gas cartridge are not included in the kits. R378, makro.co.za

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Sadiqah Assur-Ismail

TIP Travel with Greenhome cornstarchbased compostable cutlery instead of plastic disposables.

These lightweight, waste-free utensils (even the packaging is compostable) are also afordable.

From R19 (pack of 10 spoons), faithful-to-nature.co.za

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GEAR HIKING MESS KITS

WE TESTED THESE 3 HIKING HACKS AND THEY’RE GOLD! 1 BOTTLED EGGS Before travelling,

break any number of eggs into a used water bottle (a 500ml bottle holds about eight). Then shake and cook up on arrival. Take some spring onions too – they last well, are lightweight and add fantastic lavour. Also pack some herbs and spices, such as basil and cumin – they’ll add interest to an otherwise standard meal.

2 PROTEIN AND VEGGIE POT Scoop enough peanut butter into an old jar to create a layer on the bottom and top up the bottle with celery or apple wedges. You can do this with hummus or cream cheese, too, and top up the jar with carrots or cucumber.

BEST SOLO KIT

UNDER R300

KAMPA TIFFIN SAUCEPAN

ECOSOULIFE 3PC CUTLERY SET

R199, campandclimb.co.za VOLUME 700ml PACKED SIZE 150 x 70mm WEIGHT 300g BOIL TIME 500ml water in 5mins This was my favourite pot. It’s small but efective, with handy features such as a pouring spout (this allows you to easily drain scalding water from the pot) and a secure locking handle. The pot comes with a lid but it doesn’t it a gas cartridge inside for eicient packing. I found scrambled egg sticks a little to the bottom (you need a scouring sponge to clean it), but it’s a bargain for its high-quality, lightweight aluminium which conducts heat well.

R99, capeunionmart.co.za PACKED SIZE 165 x 50mm WEIGHT 60g This biodegradable cutlery set is made from vegetable waste (pressed corn, starch, bamboo and rice husks). The spoon has good depth and the knife cuts softer foods, such as cheese, pretty well. It’s strung together with a carabiner clip so you won’t lose any utensils, but if you happen to leave them behind in nature, they’ll decompose naturally after three years.

Sadiqah Assur-Ismail

3 DIY FILTER COFFEE Spoon a portion of your favourite ground cofee into a large paper cofee ilter bag/cone. Place in an enamel mug and fold the sides over the lip. Gently pour in boiling water.

Voila! A delicious brew of outdoor iltered cofee.

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Forgot your oil? No problem.

I fried my eggs without a drop and they didn’t stick to the pan

MSR ALPINE UTENSIL SET BEST LUXURY KIT

GSI BUGABOO MESS KIT

UNDER R1 000

R670, rammountain.co.za VOLUME 1L PACKED SIZE 200 x 80 mm WEIGHT 475g BOIL TIME 500ml water in 4,5mins This versatile aluminium set has two layers of durable non-stick coating so it’s a breeze to clean.

The kit includes a frying pan with a lid (which can double as a pot), cup, bowl, DiamondBack Gripper and mesh bag. The pan capacity is enough for a solo traveller and its nesting design makes it easy to pack. I found it a little shallow for boiling water (technically it takes one litre, but

this ills it to the brim so an 850-millilitre capacity is more accurate). However, the water heated up exceptionally fast. When I tested the pan with the gripper attached, it didn’t balance well on a smaller cooker when the contents were light, but it was sturdy enough when illed with water and the gas lames didn’t blacken the bottom of the pan. The plastic cup and bowl are functional but basic. I reckon this set will withstand a few drops and won’t dent easily, but you’ll have to be conscious of not scratching the non-stick coating.

R320, campandclimb.co.za PACKED SIZE 168 x 84mm WEIGHT 84g Take along these lightweight cooking implements. Nyloncoated, they won’t scratch non-stick coating. The set includes a spatula with a sharp edge for cutting softer foods, a sharp grater that can also be used to strain water from a pot, and a ladle which doubles as a measuring cup. All the utensils fold lat for travel, and lip out and lock securely for cooking. They can be bought individually for R129 each.

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TRAVEL PORTFOLIO

1 5 Y E A R S

Did you know the African penguin is more endangered than the white rhino? Our world could be without them in 15 years WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS BY CROOKES & JACKSON

African penguins are monogamous and a breeding pair will return to the same shore and even the same nest each year. This is why they’re counted in pairs – mortality of one directly impacts the other.

TRAVEL PORTFOLIO

A feather-free brood patch on both parents ensures direct heat to incubate the eggs.

FROM TOP Chicks are brooded for up to 15 days and are extremely vulnerable to gulls and caracal; they are fed small pelagic ish by regurgitation for at least three months.

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African penguins began to etch out rookeries on the mainland in the 1980s at Boulders Beach in Simon’s Town and Stony Point in Betty’s Bay, where sandy banks, coastal thickets and human habitation ofer partial protection from predators.

TRAVEL PORTFOLIO

Its distinctive shell-pink gland helps to release heat on hot days.

Penguins have more feathers than any other bird and their grooming, bathing and preening regime keeps them waterproof for long stints at sea.

TRAVEL PORTFOLIO

Less than 18 000 breeding pairs now humour our coast with their comedic waddle.

HOW THEY GOT THE SHOTS

ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHERS

The mainland colonies of African penguins are habituated to humans, so they will walk right past you, clamber onto rocks and waddle along the boulders – you share the beach with them. We scrambled through the rocks to set up on the far side of Boulders Beach, and then used long lenses (70-200mm and 400mm) to isolate the birds and their habits. For the nesting images, we shot at nearby Foxy Beach, where the ages and stages of the penguin breeding process are both photogenic and accessible.

David Crookes and Nicola Jackson met You can win one at UCT Michaelis School of Fine Art, of these signed artworks where they worked together on

by Crookes & Jackson. a thesis and shared a studio. They Look out for our have continued to collaborate for the competition with Sanccob last 20 years, lived on two continents on getaway.co.za and travelled to 75 countries on in October. assignment. This year alone they’ve photographed Tibetan monks in the Himalayas, the backwaters of Kerala in India, gorillas in Rwanda, elephants and leopards in Botswana, turtles in the Caribbean and lemurs in Madagascar. crookesandjackson.com

HOW TO HELP Donate to establish a new penguin colony in De Hoop Nature Reserve through BirdLife (birdlife.org.za); volunteer or adopt a penguin at Sanccob (sanccob.co.za).

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TRAVEL FREE STATE

4

WAYS TO DO

GOLDEN GATE

is a safe This SANParks reserve dangerous hiking space, with no ger patrols animals and daily ran

The grasslands turn golden-yellow in winter. Combined with the golden sandstone at sunset, you’ll ind yourself in a landscape that glows.

OPPOSITE A close-up shot magniies the beauty of trident grass.

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TRAVEL FEATURE

There’s only one national park in the country that exists purely to protect grass. The tiny treasures growing in the Eastern Free State are the best reason to visit, but Golden Gate Highlands National Park ofers plenty more besides. Use this guide to plan your next short break WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS BY MELANIE VAN ZYL

PARK SPECS • 11 600 hectares • 30% of SA’s water supply comes from here • 50+ grass species • 171 bird species • 3 hours from Joburg, Bloemfontein or Durban

TRAVEL FREE STATE COMMON PASPALUM (AKA ‘STICKY HEADS’)

D

NGONGONI THREE-AWN GRASS

efending grass might seem like an odd intention but these precious grasslands are vital to South Africa’s survival. Situated in the Rooiberge of the Eastern Free State, in true highland habitat, Golden Gate lies in a critical watershed. Any rain falling here either runs down via the Caledon River into the mighty Orange, or via the Wilge River into the Vaal. This means that a third of the entire water supply of South Africa comes from this area.

Essential to water retention, grass is the reason Golden Gate exists – and also the reason you should visit. People know the saying, to stop and smell the roses, but have you ever taken time to stoop down and look at how intricately delightful grasses are up close? Like other plants, grasses lower and put on a summer display – only in miniature – and this is a park best explored on your feet where you can see this.

In summer, green carpets swathe the softly sweeping hills and, up closer, there’s an unmistakable shimmer of red in the ields too.

This is due to the Themeda triandra (red grass) that grows here. Up close, the seeds and lowers are extraordinary; long maroon tendrils snake out of purple shells that look like wheat husks, while the long stem retains a fresh lime-green colour. Red grass is an indicator of excellent grazing and that the grassland is in good health. It’s rarely found outside the park’s fences, due to overgrazing.

Central for travellers heading from Joburg, Durban or Bloem (just three hours’ drive from any of them), Golden Gate National Park is better known for its impressive sandstone cliffs that become briely golden at sunset than for epic wildlife. That said, you can still spot impressive herds roaming the hillsides and eight antelope species call the park home. Whether you visit to witness summer’s shades of gorgeous green, or the rich auburn autumn hues, or to see snow on the peaks in winter, Golden Gate is great in any season.

Here are four ways to spend a weekend in this precious place.

COMMON THATCH IN FLOWER

RED GRASS

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1

THE BEST-OF-BOTH ESCAPE

Cost Around R1 670 pp Duration Two nights Special sights Butterlies, horses and beer If you like to have the best of both worlds – access to city comforts and exceptional natural beauty in peaceful mountain surroundings – then the Golden Gate Hotel is the perfect springboard for exploring nearby Clarens, with a walk or horse ride and easy hike thrown in. With an array of cafes, shops and a great brewery, it’s well worth spending a day in town while you’re in the area. Despite being an incredibly popular weekend destination, Clarens has managed to retain its village charm and is just a short, scenic 20-kilometre drive from the hotel.

Plan your trip DAY ONE Settle in at the hotel and be sure to open the curtains, where you’ll ind amazing views of the iconic sandstone Brandwag Buttress lit up at night. When you check in, book to go horse riding the next day as they require advance notice.

STAY HERE The alpine-style Golden Gate Hotel ofers the most contemporary accommodation in the park and has the most facilities, including restaurants, a cosy pub, tennis courts and even board games on request. There are simple self-catering chalets (from R1 094 for two) on the grounds, but the hotel rooms feel more luxe. The north-facing rooms cost a little more but have the best views. From R1 142 for two sharing B&B. Conservation fees R44 pp a day. 058-255-1000

DAY TWO Make the most of the generous breakfast bufet, then kick of your morning with an expertly guided horse ride through the grasslands, crossing streams and trotting up small hillocks. You can choose an hour (R100) or two-hour (R155) scenic outride and the guide will cater to all riding abilities (it might be too slow-going for pros). Animals you’re likely to see include black wildebeest,

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP Field guides use horses to patrol the park borders – visitors can also explore the park on horseback; one of the local Basotho healers teaches visitors about medicinal plants in the area – each leaf and lower comes with a story; a wooden bridge crossing a stream on the Brandwag hike. getaway.co.za 69

TRAVEL FREE STATE

springbok, blesbok, grey rhebok and mountain reedbuck. Keep an eye peeled for butterlies, too, and see how many diferent ones you can spot – 78 species have been recorded here.

Afterwards, drive into town and grab a light lunch at the Clarens Brewery.

The German-style food is afordable and delicious – I always order the sausage bowl (R70 for two), which comes with an assortment of relishes and fresh bread from the bakery at the entrance to town.

Aside from beer brewed on site (the tasters are free so sample them all to ind your favourite), the brewery has joined the national trend and now distils gin too.

(082-901-4700, clarensbrewery.co.za).

Spend the rest of the day wandering around town and its various shops and art galleries. Then head back in time to watch the orange clifs grow golden at sunset from the hotel’s balcony.

DAY THREE Most day hikes depart from Glen Reenen Rest Camp but there is one, the Holkrans Trail, that starts just behind the Golden Gate Hotel. Do it before you head home – it only takes an hour. The path winds up the massive orange sandstone clifs, briely dips into a forest along the edge of a ravine, and crosses windswept grasslands before returning to the hotel.

‘Here, you’re high enough to see birds of prey swooping by and really feel a part of the landscape’

The Golden Gate Hotel is dwarfed by the mighty Brandwag Buttress. It takes an hour to hike up here.

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Been to Golden Gate before?

Do it diferently • Take a guided walk to Cathedral Cave. In this cavern, used by Basotho worshippers and where Anglo-Boer War refugees once sought shelter, a colony of rare sacred ibis breeds. The eerie cavern, which has been carved over millions of years by water and wind, stretches 250 metres long and is 50 metres deep. Be prepared to swim across cold water and climb a chain ladder en route to see the inside of the cave. The walk leaves from Glen Reenen Rest Camp.

• Walk a wilderness trail with a Basotho traditional healer.

Through this fascinating experience, touching and smelling the medicinal plants that grow in these highlands, you’ll see the park through new eyes. It also includes a short hike up to the caves in the QwaQwa section of the park to view some beautiful examples of San rock art. Tuesdays to Thursdays only, R40 pp. It leaves from the Basotho Cultural Village. * For both, booking in advance is essential. Call 058-255-0962

2

DISCOVER TRUE MOUNTAIN MAGIC

Cost R1 488 pp (excl. food) Duration Two nights Special sights Bearded vultures, secretive oribi and endless views To get the best views at Golden Gate, you have to stay at Highlands Mountain Retreat. It’s the most private of all the accommodation offerings in the park, perched on the top of a mountain at 2 200 metres above sea level. Sensational views over the grasslands on the slopes of the Maloti Mountains come standard, and you might even spot some zebra chewing their way through the landscape. Comprising just eight log cabins, it is thoughtfully tucked into the hills and grass even grows on the roofs, concealing them. Here, you’re high enough to see birds of prey swooping by and really feel a part of the landscape.

Of South Africa’s 800-plus bird species, 350 occur in the grassland biome and 171 have been recorded at Golden Gate.

Two threatened species endemic to the area are the yellow-breasted pipit and southern bald ibis. The most renowned sighting, however, is of the highly threatened and very handsome bearded vulture or lammergeier – known for dropping bones from dizzying heights to shatter them into little pieces so it can get to the marrow. Senior section ranger

FROM ABOVE For waking up to a glorious sight, Highlands Mountain Retreat easily has the best views in the park; blesbok are common in Golden Gate – drive slowly as the roads aren’t fenced of from roaming game.

Dhiraj Nariandas says that the vulture ‘restaurant’ in the park is their northernmost feeding site in the country. ‘There are approximately just 300 individuals in South Africa and the restaurant was set up for their sake, but Cape vultures beneit from the carcasses too. It’s also an easy place to spot black-backed jackal.’

Did you know?

The irst-ever fossilised dinosaur eggs from the Triassic Period were found at Golden Gate in 1973. One of the eggs was dropped during the excavation, but it turned out to be a fortunate accident because a complete fossilised embryo was found within. It’s extremely rare to ind something like this. Many dinosaur bones, footprints and ferns from that time period have been discovered in the layers of the park, and there are plans to open a dinosaur interpretation centre in the park.

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TRAVEL FREE STATE GOLDEN GATE NP TRAILS

Plan your trip DAY ONE Just chill. This weekend is all about sipping red wine, taking panoramic shots from your doorstep and cuddling up in front of the ire.

STAY HERE The self-catering cabins at Highlands Mountain Retreat are fully equipped (and supercosy in winter, with oil heaters, electric blankets and ireplace) so just bring all the food you’ll need. There’s a braai on your stoep with the best views in the park. Collect the keys from Glen Reenen Rest Camp; it takes 15 minutes to get here via a game drive on Oribi Loop. From R1 400 for two.

Conservation fees R44 pp a day. 058-255-0962

DAY TWO There really is little reason to wake up early if you’re on a romantic break. However, if cabin fever strikes, head for the vulture restaurant (a 10-minute drive away).

If you’re a couple of die-hard twitchers, pack a lask and sit a while. There are ive day hikes (no extra cost) in the

This sunset view is just a 10-minute stroll from the Golden Gate Hotel – no climbing required.

72 OCTOBER 2017

park that depart from the Glen Reenen Rest Camp.

For exceptional views, head up the Brandwag Buttress (one hour) and, if the weather is good, tackle the four-hour Wodehouse Peak trail. In the afternoon, slowly follow the park’s two game-drive routes, the Oribi Loop (4,2 kilometres) Blesbok Loop (6,7 kilometres).

Keep eyes peeled for eland herds on the mountain slopes and secretary birds hunting in the long grass.

DAY THREE Before you leave, squeeze in another short walk and experience the forested corners of these red mountains. Echo Ravine is a gentle stroll that takes just 45 minutes and is one of the more picturesque routes. The mountains wrap almost entirely around you, thanks to centuries of weathering, and water drips from the clifs in the rainy season. If it’s hot, cool of in the natural rock pool behind the Glen Reenen Rest Camp before heading for home.

• Ribbok Hiking Trail: 2 days • Wodehouse Peak: 4 hours • Brandwag Buttress: 1 hour • Boskloof: 1 hour • Holkrans: 1 hour Echo Ravine: 45 minutes • Mushroom Rock: 45 minutes Get a free Golden Gate Trails Map online at getaway.co.za/blog

3

BEAUTIFUL BACKPACKING ON A BUDGET

Cost R690 pp (or R1 095 pp if you stay an extra night) Duration 28km overnight hike Special sights Mountain rhebok and secret swimming pools Walking is the best way to appreciate this park because you really get to feel the scale of this mountainous paradise. The Ribbok Hiking Trail (so called because it has you skipping up hillsides like the better-equipped mountain rhebok would) is a two-day overnight hike easily done in a weekend, and is excellent value for money as a budget escape. What surprised me about this trail was the abundance of beautiful swimming spots; for most of the hike, the trail follows a crystal-clear mountain stream. You need some itness to really enjoy this adventure, but rewards like panoramic views over Lesotho and secret waterfalls require a little chutzpah and perseverance. The saving grace of this semi-demanding hike is that you don’t have to lug your overnight gear. It’s not advertised on the website, but Golden Gate will transport one bag per hiker (for free) so you don’t have to carry your sleeping bag, food supplies and change of clothes up to the tallest mountain in the park (Generaalskop stands some 2 732 metres above sea level) to see the epic view.

Plan your trip DAY ONE Try leave work early to get to the park on Friday evening – even if you check in late, you can arrange to get your keys from security.

STAY HERE The self-catering rondavels at Glen Reenen Rest Camp are comfy and afordable. From R855 for two people. You can wake up, register for the trail (reception opens at 7am), leave your bags for transporting and get going early. Conservation fees R44 pp a day, overnight hike R175 pp. 058-255-0962

DAY TWO (14,2KM) The irst section of the Ribbok hike follows the popular Brandwag day trail, and gets up close to this impressive sandstone formation. There’s a bit of a climb and the day starts with excellent views of

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP Boots of and lunch along the Ribbok Trail; the Basotho Cultural Village, set away from the main road, is a great option for an extra night’s stay after the hike (it’s the cheapest accommodation in the park); most of the two-day Ribbok Trail follows streams and requires a little rock-hopping. getaway.co.za 73

TRAVEL FREE STATE Golden Gate Hotel and Glen Reenen Rest Camp. From here, you cross grassy plains to reach a lowing stream and follow a gorgeous canyon. Rest here and soak up the scenery. Then there’s some clambering up towards Wodehouse Peak before heading down to the Wilgenhof Environmental Education Centre and crossing the main road to the other side of the park (we got a little lost here, but just make your way to the park entrance gate and you’ll spot the yellow markers again). From the tar road it’s an easy stroll over grasslands – we spotted zebra and hartebeest along the way – before reaching the hut; it took us six-and-a-half hours in total. If it’s hot and you still have some energy, the Ribbokspruit waterfall is about 2,4 kilometres and 45 minutes from the hut (the trail will pass it tomorrow). It’s well worth whiling away an afternoon here.

STAY HERE The Ribbok Hut is basic, with three rooms (each sleeping six on triple-bunk beds), drinking water, a shower with donkey boiler, two loos, a kitchen with a wood stove (cosy in winter) and an outdoor braai. Firewood is supplied but it can be wet so don’t rely on it to cook (bring a small hiking stove just in case).

This gorgeous waterfall and swimming spot is just two kilometres from the Ribbok Trail overnight hut.

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DAY THREE (13,9KM) Although shorter than the irst day, this stretch has a lot of climbing and can take eight hours. First, the trail follows the spruit to the waterfall, then climbs up Heartbreak Hill to Generaalskop.

Hikers can look down on the Caledon River, which marks the border between South Africa and Lesotho. You stay at altitude for a while, walking along the rocky spine of the mountains before descending to Langtoon Dam – a good lunch spot. Then it’s an easy stroll back to Glen Reenen and the end of the trail at the rock pool, perfect for cooling of.

STAY HERE If you don’t want to rush of home, stay at the Basotho Cultural Village on the Harrismith (eastern) side of Golden Gate.

It’s quieter than other camps, being of the main transit road, and has excellent views over the plains, which are usually inundated with springbok and blesbok herds. The self-catering rondavels here are more spacious than at Glen Reenen, and the most afordable accommodation in the park. From R810 for two people.

058-255-0962

4

SLEEP IN THE CLOUDS

Cost Around R1 600 pp Duration Two nights Special sights Waterfalls and wild heights Although it isn’t part of the Golden Gate Highlands National Park (yet), Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge is just 35km from the eastern border of the park, and together with Golden Gate forms part of an ambitious protected area called the Maloti Drakensberg Transfrontier Project. This peace park, composed of uKhahlamba Drakensberg National Park in South Africa and Sehlathebe National Park in Lesotho, is an effort to create a consolidated conservation corridor of some 32 690 hectares down the eastern curve of the Lesotho border.

Set up in the 1970s as a state enterprise, Witsieshoek is an impressive community project (owned by the Batlokoa community of QwaQwa) that went from two-percent occupancy levels to the current 38 percent since partnering with Transfrontier Park Destinations. The lodge also acquired Fair Trade certiication recently and, at 2 220 metres above sea level, claims to be the highest lodge in the Northern Drakensberg – perfect for exploring iconic peaks.

ABOVE Basotho women sing below the Drakensberg mountains at Witsieshoek.

OPPOSITE Sunset from the Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge chalets is breathtaking (if clouds don’t block the view).

Plan your trip

Golden Gate

DAY ONE Being part of the Royal Natal and Rugged Glen National Parks, there are a number of incredible day and overnight hikes on ofer that can be walked alone or guided by locals.

You can’t get closer to the dramatic Sentinel Peak than here, and it’s the perfect spot to look down over Mont-Aux-Sources and the iconic Amphitheatre. After check in, try squeeze in a three-hour walk that’ll take you to the Mahai Falls. It’s a prettty easy stroll recommended for all ages.

R712

Golden Gate Hotel Clarens R712

R711

Glen Reenen Rest Camp

Highlands Mountain Retreat Vulture Feeding Project

Basotho Cultural Village R57

Phuthaditjhaba FREE STATE

STAY HERE A standard bungalow at Witsieshoek is from R595 pp a night, plus a park entry fee of R45 pp. It’s not self-catering; there is a restaurant ofering hearty meals like stews and malva pudding. 058-713-6361, witsieshoek.co.za

TO HARRISMITH

LESOTHO

TO WITSIESHOEK MOUNTAIN LODGE

Golden Gate: Need to know

DAY TWO

DAY VISITORS

BEST TIME TO VISIT

There are many day hikes from Witsieshoek; the most popular option is the Drakensberg Chain Ladder hike. You don’t have to be super-it to do it, but keep in mind the efects of high altitude and allow eight hours for the full return journey. The trail winds beneath towering peaks with mind-spinning drops below – here at such lofty heights, various birds of prey swim the sky. There are two sections of chain ladder of about 50 rungs each that climb to the plateau. They’re best tackled with slow deliberate footing and calm nerves. Once at the top, it’s a 25-minute walk to the edge of the Amphitheatre. At 2 926 metres you can gaze down into the Tugela Gorge a full thousand metres beneath you.

Hiking fees are R75 pp.

Day visitors pay R44 pp. The two game drives are short and spectacular, but it’s deinitely worth doing a day hike – it’s easy to get a permit and parking at Glen Reenen Rest Camp is safe. sanparks.co.za There is a picnic site with braai facilities and ablutions close to the Golden Gate Hotel, but it wasn’t in the best state when I visited. Rather picnic at De Molen Farm – this Nguni cattle stud is 7km from Clarens. Take a picnic basket and sit on the banks of the Little Caledon River for free. demolenfarm.co.za

Hiking is best and it’s greenest in spring and summer – plus you can swim. In winter there might be snow. Golden Gate is prone to sudden changes in weather, with thunderstorms from November to February (summer) and below-freezing temperatures in winter.

SUPPLIES Glen Reenen Rest Camp has a small shop with basic supplies, a bottle store and fuel station. There is no ATM. Prices correct at time of going to print.

* Instead of returning to Witsieshoek, it is possible to camp overnight on the plateau.

See the Drakensberg Hikes story in our June 2017 issue or online at getaway.co.za.

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TRAVEL CAPE PENINSULA

Blue sharks are tactile and inquisitive, making frequent physical contact with divers.

76 OCTOBER 2017

Poelzer Wolfgang

You can do this snorkelling or diving

FLYING WITH

SHARKS There’s nothing quite as magical as being suspended in a warm, cobalt ocean with friendly blue sharks. You can do this close to Cape Town WORDS BY DARREL BRISTOW-BOVEY PHOTOGRAPHS BY TEAGAN CUNNIFFE

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TRAVEL CAPE PENINSULA

T

eagan is afraid of sharks. Everyone is afraid of sharks but she’s really afraid of sharks, which is noticeable because she isn’t afraid of many other things, but I’ve somehow persuaded her to come out on an expedition to swim with sharks in the open ocean without a cage. Teagan is Getaway’s photographer.

So we’re somewhere south of Cape Point on a clear warm day in April, and I have a pocketful of anxiety pills in case she needs them. She seemed cheerful enough during the long ride out, but now we’re bobbing in the deep blue and there’s something about bobbing in the deep blue with time on your hands, waiting for sharks to arrive, that makes a person start to think.

She’s starting to get idgety and frowny and take long, suspicious looks at the sea, but fortunately a sunburnt Brit in a yellow T-shirt becomes spectacularly seasick and that cheers her up. Every shark trip needs a seasick Brit: it’s always comforting to see someone more miserable than you.

There’s a perforated drum in the water, illed with sardines and pilchards sending out a scent trail that stretches silver as a ish scale across the surface of the sea. We have spent more than an hour to get here, nearly 20 nautical miles from Simon’s Town harbour to where the warm Mozambican current sheers off the continental shelf and forms a great loop in the ocean. The current shifts day by day but the best place to ind pelagic sharks is just at the edge of it, where the sea temperature suddenly climbs. The ocean is 20 degrees and we’re right on the line where the cold-

Cape Point and its lower lighthouse by the irst golden light of day.

78 OCTOBER 2017

water ish and the warm-water gameish collide. There are tuna down there, and dorado and silver clouds of yellowtail and bonito. We’ve seen gulls and cormorants and albatross and shearwaters and southern giant petrels, but we haven’t seen any sharks. Sharks are wild animals; there’s no guarantee they’ll arrive.

If they do arrive, they’ll be blues.

Sometimes you see a mako, the fastest shark in the sea: three metres of fast-twitch muscle, a torpedo with teeth, shaped like a sleeker, pointier great white. I would love to see a mako – I’ve spent 20 years trying to see one – but they are skittish and rare and I have never had any luck. You can break your heart waiting to see a mako.

I tell Teagan this. ‘I don’t want to see a mako,’ she says.

An hour passes, just bobbing, and the Brit is wishing a shark would eat him so he can stop throwing up. His girlfriend started off rubbing his back sympathetically but now she’s throwing up too – it’s a hard Brexit off the side of the boat for both of them. Teagan is starting to relax.

‘There’s a shark,’ says someone from the front of the boat.

When shot-down pilots and sailors from sinking ships in the Second World War found themselves loating, the irst sharks they encountered were usually blue sharks (Prionace glauca), but almost none were eaten by them. In the history of shark attacks, very few deaths have been

CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT The old man and the sea and pelagic seabirds; it’s an early-morning start in Simon’s Town harbour, checking gear and stowing equipment before dawn; we passed Seal Island on our journey out.

Ethics of shark diving

‘This debate is complex. Briely, it depends on the species (there are over 530 sharks) and their habits, whether they’re migratory or resident. Blues and makos are highly migratory pelagic species, so the long-term efects of chumming on their behaviour are likely minimal. The things to consider are the method of chumming and feeding. If the shark receives a reward for being there, that could have a negative efect. That said, one also has to consider the energy they’re expending and if they’re not getting food to replenish themselves, that could be negative. The SA government has very little funding allocated towards important shark research, which is necessary to understand shark behaviour and movement ecology. One has to also consider that shark tourism places a value on the sharks being alive, plus the tourism boats provide a policing entity and often have biologists aboard. Blue sharks are a Near Threatened species on IUCN and mako sharks are classiied as Vulnerable, yet both are caught in commercial isheries of Southern Africa.’

Alison Towner, marine biologist for Dyer Island Conservation Trust and PhD candidate.

For our ‘Shark-diving Guide’, go to getaway.co.za.

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‘When you get in the water they rush over to greet you’

Poelzer Wolfgang

pinned on blues.

There are more blue sharks than just about any other shark in the seas, but they’re hovering on the brink of being a threatened species; up to 20 million of them a year are caught and killed for their meat and their ins and the oil in their livers. They’re exceptionally beautiful, about two metres long and as smooth and slender as stockinged legs. Their backs are a rich deep blue, a purple lecked with mica, and their bellies are the softest creamiest white.

They’re also very curious, like puppies: when you get in the water they rush over to greet you and they like to bump and jostle. Sometimes they glide directly for you in a graceful game of chicken then tilt a in to veer away at the last minute, running the length of their body against you. If they weren’t so lovely it would be a kind of sexual harassment.

Teagan sits on the side of the boat, fumbling with her dive mask.

‘You okay?’

‘I’m okay,’ she says, which is what people say when they aren’t okay.

Then she jumps over the side.

You can stay snorkelling on the surface, or you can scuba down the ive or 10 metres to hover midwater alongside the drum of sardines. The sharks come to you whichever you do but for maximum exposure and 3D immersion I recommend the scuba.

There’s something splendid and hallucinatorily surreal about being suspended in the warm blue with no seabed below you, enveloped in a cloud of 20 or 30 sharks, like a nucleus surrounded by a calm eccentric orbit of elongated electrons.

It takes some time to get used to being bumped from behind and below, and even more time to stop swinging round or jerking your head up and down to see where they are. You can’t see where they are: they are everywhere. After a while you start to tell them apart and detect personalities. The big one trailing the ishing line from the corner of his mouth keeps his distance then suddenly rises

Simon’s Town

TRAVEL FEATURE Miller’s Point

towards you from below but never makes contact; the long one with the notch in his tail likes to rub against your tank; those two almost-turquoise-coloured ones are always near each other, like a pair of young lovers.

It’s unlikely you’ll ever see a blue shark unless you go out to the open water. They travel vast distances between continents but they prefer to stay deep, in 30 metres of water or more, hunting squid and pelagic octopus. They seldom come near shore and you can’t keep them captive either; they usually die within days of being in a tank.

Like most pelagic sharks they have a poor sense of conined space – they collide with the glass and become confused by the shallowness. The longest they’ve lasted in a San Diego aquarium is three months, in a large deep circular tank where they could ride an endlessly circulating current, but to see the blues in the open sea is to understand that keeping them in captivity is like putting river water in a bathtub. It’s the same thing, but it isn’t at all the same thing.

I try to meditate every morning, and now when I do I like to think about that hour I spent in the deep blue, watching them circle and soar and dart like bright blue shadows, fast and slow, near and far. They sing a kind of story of space and motion that I haven’t seen from any other ish or sharks or any other creature other than halfremembered from my childhood dreams of lying.

Back on board, Teagan is beaming like someone who was scared of lying but has just returned from space.

The others tell me that the mako came when I was down there but I didn’t see it. It came around the outside, a blue shadow in the blue, and I was looking somewhere else.

I don’t mind. I’ll see it another time, or when it’s ready for me, or never. All you can do is go looking; you can’t be greedy.

Blue sharks are more a principle of space and the ocean than they are ish, with a tender beauty too leeting to fully grasp.

Plan your trip

Cape Point

GETTING THERE We went with Pisces Divers, a scuba operator located in Simon’s Town on Cape Town’s Peninsula. It’s about 40 minutes’ drive from the city centre via the M3. piscesdivers.co.za

The Canyon (approximate region of dive)

WHEN TO GO Pisces Divers runs pelagic safaris between November and June.

The water is always warm but the summer months tend to ofer slightly latter seas and warmer surface conditions.

THE SHARK DIVE

It’s an early start and a tiring day, physically and emotionally, so be sure to get to bed early the night before. Depending on how long you have to wait for the sharks to arrive – usually about an hour, but sometimes longer – you can expect to be back in harbour in the early afternoon. If you’re planning to dive you’ll need a basic scuba qualiication – the conditions are very easy and unchallenging – but if you don’t dive, you will have a fulilling time snorkelling on the surface. Freedivers are welcome; indeed, conditions are ideal for freediving. This is a no-contact dive, but should a blue happen to bump you as it swims by, you’ll ind it to be surprisingly velvety and sensual and receptive to your touch.

A Pelagic Shark Dive costs R2 500 pp (the rate is the same for snorkelling). All gear and wetsuits are supplied by Pisces Divers, are in good condition and included in the cost. Lunch is provided but bring your own snacks and treats, especially if you are a little nervous: extra sugar is comforting and is good for keeping your nerve up.

One of the highlights of the trip is passing Cape Point at sunrise. It’s a uniquely beautiful view from the water, with its two lighthouses and its sheer clifs lit gold. Keep your eyes peeled for other marine life: dolphins, seals, whales, penguins, pelagic seabirds, even turtles and the pod of orcas that has taken up residency in False Bay in recent years. (The population of sevengill cowsharks at Miller’s Point near Simon’s Town has been devastated in recent years by the orcas neatly and surgically removing their oil-rich livers.) piscesdivers.co.za

WHAT TO BRING

STAY HERE

A towel to dry of and a warm top for the early morning and the ride back. Don’t forget sunblock and a loppy hat – the sun out at sea inds another level of burn – plus seasickness tablets if you’re susceptible.

Smitswinkel Tented Camp is in Table Mountain National Park and is an afordable, attractive option. It’s close to Cape Point and a short drive from Simon’s Town. From R670 per tent (sleeps two). sanparks.org

NEED TO KNOW

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n a h t r e bet t

? o r a j n a m i l i K Uganda’s Rwenzori mountain range is Africa’s top hiking destination, holding three of the continent’s ive highest peaks.

The summits are spectacular, the routes are uncrowded and the high-altitude forests teem with life

Mount Stanley emerges from the clouds in Rwenzori Mountains National Park, Uganda.

WORDS & PHOTOGRAPHS BY SHANE QUINNELL

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'Why do we climb ? ' s n i a t n u mo

As an avid climber, it’s a thought I’ve had, and tried to answer, many times. ‘What makes us crave cold, barren heights and push on ever higher?’ Sometimes I think the answer is about escaping, or challenging oneself mentally and physically, or connecting to nature and an ancient version of spirituality. Sometimes I wonder if it’s something else entirely…

In late 2015, my wife Tarryn and I began planning an expedition to summit Africa’s ive highest peaks. It was our irst introduction to the Rwenzori Mountains that straddle Uganda and the DRC. Just reading about them blew our minds! Steeped in myth, these fabled ‘Mountains of the Moon’ are Africa’s largest range and the source of the White Nile. Their home, the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, which is now also a World Heritage Site, contains six of Africa’s 10 highest mountains, most of them higher than the tallest Alps. Yet to most bucket-list hikers they are largely unknown, overshadowed by Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya, Africa’s two highest mountains.

Now, almost two years later, here we are in Uganda, walking through the small dilapidated mining town of Kilembe to the trail head. We’re joined by friend Immo Bartens. Our group of 21 includes three guides, Enock Bwambale, Richard Dramaza and Ochora Charles, and a small army of 15 porters. Around us are steep hills crammed with crops of bananas and potatoes clinging to near-vertical slopes, ignorant of Newton’s law of universal gravitation. Ahead, dark clouds hang over the park boundary and cover the peaks, including the three we have come to attempt: Mount Baker (4 844 metres), Mount Speke (4 890 metres) and 84 OCTOBER 2017

Mount Stanley (5 109 metres).

ABOVE One of the locals, a red duiker, eyes us from Soon we’re trekking through its home in Rwenzori’s dense tropical rainforest packed ericaceous zone. with weird and wonderful RIGHT A land that belongs creatures such as Ruwenzori to the fairies. Tarryn turacos and bright-green threeglances back, ecstatic horned chameleons. The foliage to be in what she called ’wonderland’, as Enock seems impenetrable but the trail guides us on. is well maintained and after ive hours we make it to Sine Camp, our irst overnight spot. At 2 596 metres it’s still considered the ‘lowlands’, an indication of the scale that awaits us. Located on a ridge near a waterfall and surrounded by tall trees, the camp is a collection of bright green huts with bunk beds. Tarryn, Immo and I are used to sleeping in tents and bivy sacks so this feels like luxury. It’s a trend that continues for most of the 10-day trek.

Another trend that kicks off that night is massive and amazing meals; spaghetti bolognese, fried chicken and chips, pancakes with chocolate sauce. It’s as if our tour operator wants us to leave fatter than when we arrived. Added to that, our porters insist on carrying our Osprey packs and our guides provide hot-water bottles on demand. It’s a lifesaver for Tarryn who, despite her excellent Montbell apparel, begins turning into an icicle as we inch higher.

On day two the rainforest gives way to otherworldly ericaceous vegetation, laden with lichen and wisps of old man’s beard. The scene changes almost daily, the only near-constant being patches

TRAVEL UGANDA

of increasingly thick, mucky bog. It’s gumboot territory. Or, in my case, waterproof hiking boots and gaiters. We pass forests of senecio and giant lobelia, home to malachite sunbirds. We ascend further and the foliage starts to disappear.

On the fourth day, as we arrive at Hunwick’s Camp we get our irst view of Mount Stanley, framed perfectly by a throng of dissipating clouds. They drift further apart to reveal some of Rwenzori’s other peaks: Weismann’s, Luigi di Savoia, Baker and Speke in the distance, all standing tall, glaciated and proud.

Logic says we can’t possibly be in Africa. These must be the Alps!

Yet here we are, about to attempt the Mountains of the Moon.

'Logic says we can't possibly be in Africa. These must be the Alps!'

Our irst peak is Mount Baker, which we summit the following day. It’s the easiest of the three but still a challenge, with two sections of roped scrambling and some fairly intense black ice.

The following day we turn our attention to Mount Stanley. Its highest point is Margherita Peak – the apogee of this mighty range.

As we trudge towards base camp, I ask Enock about the glaciers. ‘In the nine years that I’ve been guiding,’ he says, ‘I’ve seen the glaciers disappear before my eyes. Each year they run away further.

Watching our glaciers, I can even cry.’ He’s right. In the next 10 years, scientists predict, they could be gone altogether.

Climbing Stanley’s glaciers, it turns out, makes us almost want to cry too. The following morning, in freezing pre-dawn darkness, CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP two stand between us and the This is the wall on Mount summit. The second is more Speke that nearly sent us technical than we expected. It’s packing; the bright green a steep river of ice that requires cabins were a new kind of axes, crampons, ropes, muscles camping comfort; this and sheer will. Climbing it wrests three-horned chameleon almost every last bit of energy looked like it came out of the Jurassic Period; armed from our bodies. At the end Tarryn and ready for action, collapses, just 50 metres from the Ochora sets a belay on summit. Richard and I help her up.

Stanley’s inal glacier; Together we struggle to the top.

Enock’s Falls near Sine Her small frame and rock-hard Camp on our irst night; tenacity lead our guides to dub my boots after tackling a ‘normal’ portion of trail. her ‘Suzuki’ – a likeness to the 86 OCTOBER 2017

ed after This waterfall is nam ain unt mo RTS the of one e guides, Enock Bwambal

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hidden power of our small Jimny, Badger, that we’re travelling in.

Dynamite really does come in small packages.

Standing up there, on the highest point of Africa’s most fabled range, with Tarryn and Immo, I ask myself that question again, ‘Why do we climb mountains?’ There’s no single rationale. Like the peaks of Rwenzori, the reasons are legion. Mountains test us, they dare us, they scare us and they ill us with joy – the kind you only feel later, but that stays with you forever. And sometimes, such as here on top of the Mountains of the Moon, the reasons transcend the physical and you ind your spiritual centre.

'Mountains test us, they dare us ... and they fill us with joy' That afternoon as we trek towards our inal peak, Mount Speke, the notorious Rwenzori rain hits, drenching us to the bone. We reach Bujuku Valley, the only tented camp of the trip.

Unfortunately the rock overhang here provides almost no respite from the deluge. We hang our sodden clothes on the rocks above a smoky ire and retreat into our wet tents. The next day on Speke is tough, including a section Immo dubs ‘gnarly’, and our guides are instrumental in getting us to the top. Somehow we all make it. We’ve completed three of Africa’s ive highest mountains in 10 days. We’re stoked. And utterly exhausted. We took the tough route, but that’s not the only way to explore this magical place.

That’s the beauty of it; the potential for climbers and hikers is near-endless. I sneak in an extra peak on the journey back (Weismann’s at 4 620 metres) and can’t help but think, ‘Forget Kilimanjaro, this is the best hiking destination in Africa!’

Cold, barren and steep. The inal glacier of Mount Stanley is a worthy adversary.

88 OCTOBER 2017

Plan your trip GETTING THERE We drove to Rwenzori Mountains National Park from Joburg on our Suzuki Africa Sky High Expedition (see the route on teamtane.com) but, for most travellers, lying is the best option. Immo’s return light from Johannesburg to Entebbe was R8 200 (saa.com). From there he took a minibus to Kampala (about two hours, R150) and then a bus to Kasese (about eight hours, from R110).

Transfers between Kasese and Kilembe can be arranged with your tour operator (we used RTS, see below), and cost from R135 each way.

WHEN TO GO The best time to hike the Rwenzoris is between December and March or from July to September.

NEED TO KNOW South Africans require a tourist visa. Applications can be done online and usually take a few hours to be sent to you via email. Print and present at your point of entry, pay $50 (USD currency only) and you’ll receive a threemonth entry. For those driving, other fees are applicable. visas.immigration.go.ug, aa.co.za

WHAT IT COSTS R1 will get you about 270 USh (Ugandan shillings). Expect to pay about 3 000 USh (R10) for a beer and about 15 000 USh (R55) for a mzungu (tourist) dinner. Local cuisine is far cheaper. Be sure to take US dollars too (new notes only) as you’ll also need to pay the $35

Uganda per night for your permit into Rwenzori Mountains National Park. ugandawildlife.org Immo’s 14-day trip (including return lights from Cape Town and all transfers, dorm accommodation, visa, permits, food and a 10-day hike to summit three peaks) cost him just under R35 000. For comparison, an all-inclusive, six-day Kilimanjaro trek is from R30 950 pp (including lights) with Getaway Travel.

DRC

Mount Stanley

Mount Baker Weismanns Peak

Rwenzori Mountains National Park

HIKING THE RWENZORIS Hikes must be organised through a tour operator.

We chose Rwenzori Trekking Services (RTS) because of its positive reputation. Numerous standard options are available, from easy three-day jungle hikes (from R4 200 pp for three or more people) to a tough seven-day summit of Mount Stanley (from R13 000 pp for three or more people). We opted for the longest standard expedition: a 10-day hike to summit the three highest peaks, which costs R20 000 pp.

It required early morning starts, navigating treacherous ice, tolerance of frigid temperatures and the efects of high altitude. Guides are highly trained and will get you through the tough sections but good itness is imperative. rwenzoritrekking.com

Mount Speke

Uganda Kilembe

Kasese To Kampala

STAY HERE Backpackers Hostel in Kampala is a vibey spot.

There’s a bar, clean warm showers, free Wi-Fi and great wood-ired pizzas. Rooms from R195 for two sharing and camping from R52 pp. backpackers@infocom.co.ug Humara Resort in Kampala is more luxurious, with ine dining and spacious rooms.

Deluxe doubles from R2 155 B&B. humurauganda.com Trekkers Hostel in Kilembe is the base for hiking with

Rwenzori Trekking Services.

There are cold beers and warm showers. Rooms from R328 pp sharing B&B and camping from R105 pp. Breakfast is included. rwenzoritrekking.com Hotel Margherita in Kasese is a great option if you are interested in visiting the Queen Elizabeth National Park or the chimpanzees in the Kibale Forest. Standard rooms are R1 400 for two sharing B&B. hotel-margherita.com *Prices and conversions correct at time of going to print

uki Africa Sky Follow Team Tane’s Suz mtane.com tea @ live n tio edi High Exp ok ebo Fac on m the or ind

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At Vanilla County, we’d wait with great anticipation to be invited into the courtyard behind the wooden door to feast of bananaleaf plates. Eating is with the right hand (although cutlery is usually provided).

OPPOSITE Lunch at Vanilla County – the ‘beef fry’ is in front.

KERALA ON A PLATE The best way to get a real taste of a country is to stay with the locals. Our food editor did just that in the south of India, where spices and heritage homestays abound WORDS BY NIKKI WERNER PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRANDON DE KOCK

TRAVEL INDIA

W

hen quizzed about memorable food moments in Kerala, a state on India’s tropical southwestern coast, my instinctive response is pepper-banana chips with Babu. Babu Vattathara was our driver who, in the face of oncoming tuktuks, dictated personal recipes or tutored us in the Malayalam pronunciation of kozhy curry. He was our ixer for beer, the man with the selie stick to hand and, after 10 days together, our friend.

It was a vague mention of snacks that prompted his detour through Alleppey to Malabar Chips, where fresh bananas are fed through an electric slicer into a gigantic wok of boiling oil. They are left to swirl and bubble, tossed in the air and then whipped out, dusted with black pepper and offered around while still warm. We couldn’t get enough of them. Perhaps it was surprise and delight in the unexpected that enhanced their lavour. What’s for certain is these ‘crisps’ underscored the unselfconscious but undeniably nutritious local diet I was about to discover at a lineup of homestays.

The irst was in the backwaters of Kerala, a series of interconnected waterways where fresh water meets salt water from the Arabian Sea. Babu came to the end of a road and turned off the ignition. At a jetty a long-tail boat sporting white-painted cane chairs awaited. Steering the motor was Jomon Manichan, who didn’t say much but communicated by waggling his head from side to side with an occasional smile.

Reluctantly we waved goodbye to Babu and puttered into the unknown until the watery ‘streets’ narrowed and the tropical vegetation closed in overhead. We passed women wearing house dresses standing knee-deep in water on steps leading up to their homes. They slapped washing on a stone – one woman cradled a gold iPhone7 to her ear as she did so.

Others washed out the ubiquitous cheenachetty, a thickbottomed wok that speaks of the Chinese inluence here.

Children splashed and giggled as they doggy-paddled around this domestic activity. People waved as we passed.

The odd plastic bottle loated by.

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CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE Salimma and husband Chackochan Edayady on the stoep of his ancestral home, Nelpura; freshly picked nutmeg – Kerala is known for tea, cofee and spices; uppumavu is a breakfast staple of semolina lecked with chilli, ginger, mustard seed, curry leaf and cashew nut.

d yourself.

Make some Keralan foo s from Nikki ipe rec See getaway.com for

ABOVE Nelpura’s guest quarters, a typical wooden home in the traditional Kerala style, set among orchids, adeniums, coconut palms and a mango tree.

TRAVEL INDIA

How we did India For us, any exploration of India has always landed on the back-burner in favour of ‘easier’ destinations – until a casual conversation with Pippa de Bruyn, who spent a decade researching India for the Frommer’s guide and now curates outbound trips through her company, Best Kept. Aside from crafting itineraries matched to interests and budget, Pippa also works with local experts who arrange transfers, guides, drivers and assistance in the case of illness or lost luggage.

Another contact, Nic Dawes, who lived in Delhi for three years, emailed on the subject of Indian cuisine: ‘If I had to pick an absolute favourite, it would probably be Kerala food.’ Pippa concurred. So the state of Kerala it was, and she focused on a central thread of heritage homestays, where all meals are catered. We enjoyed Nelpura and Vanilla County best for the quality of food, and our rooms were in a separate annex which allowed for increased privacy.

Having a driver and knowing we’d be met by a Best Kept representative at key points to ensure smooth transfers felt like true luxury. It meant we could maximise our time away rather than managing logistics in a place for which we had no reference point. We were also issued a local phone loaded with all the relevant numbers on arrival, and our hosts and guides all spoke English.

• Every itinerary is bespoke, but as an example: an eightnight Kerala trip for a family of four (with driver, guide, most meals and accommodation at four homestays) costs from R12 725 pp. bestkeptshhh.co.za

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ABOVE There were plenty of hammocks at Vanilla County and daybeds at Nelpura for relaxing and reading and taking in the tropical surroundings.

When we moored in front of Nelpura, our host Salimma was waiting. She led us over her stoep, which gleamed so bright I regretted having to step on it – even with bare feet, as is the custom – and welcomed us with a lunch that became a familiar hallmark of our homestays.

Anchoring the plate was unpolished Kerala rice, shorter and fatter than basmati, covered with dal. Arranged around it were always: a crispy component, like fried bitter gourd; a dry dish called thoran, tumbled with freshly grated coconut; a saucy vegetable sambar; a fried ish cutlet rubbed with ginger, garlic, lemon juice and stained red with chilli powder; poppadoms and chapatti, a South Indian latbread.

I still miss these lunch plates of varied vegetarian offerings and the substantial curry breakfasts of egg ‘roast’ or slowcooked brown chickpeas. Kerala is one of the few states where eating beef is legal but it’s by no means the starting point for a meal. Rather, rice, coconut and bananas form the foundation and everything is prepared fresh and from scratch.

‘WE WATCHED SALIMMA COOK WHILE HER HUSBAND SANG HER PRAISES’

FROM ABOVE Curry for breakfast: egg ‘roast’ with spiced, sautéed onions; the Keralan landscape ranges from palm-fringed coasts to paddy ields to green hills and forest – we explored the jungle-like surrounds with Vanilla County’s Maju Balan.

Most of what Salimma served during our stay came from her garden: the papaya, luscious mangoes and baby bananas at breakfast, and even her cooking oil is pressed from homegrown coconuts. Their last slaughter-sized duck of the season had been held back for our arrival so we could taste the coconut milk-based curry thengapal chertha tharavu, which is usually reserved for special occasions.

Before dinner, we headed out for a cruise with Jomon. On emerging from the narrow canals into larger bodies of water, we mingled with waterbuses and houseboats, their wovenpalm coverings shaped like an armadillo’s armour shell. We watched the setting sun to the distant strains of a bamboo lute; it glowed luorescent orange without radiating rays, like a bindi pasted onto a hazy sky.

Later we watched Salimma cook while her husband, Chackochan, sang her praises, helped out and occasionally slipped his arm around her waist. We pleaded with them to join us at the table so we could keep chatting, and they obliged.

In Kerala a good host serves rather than sits with guests, and it can be unnerving having the host hovering in your blind spot, watching you eat. Usually alcohol is BYO but here two Kingisher beers were chilling in our fridge on arrival.

From the backwaters we headed for the rich biodiversity of the Western Ghats, to Vanilla County, owned by Mathew Vallipkappen and his wife Rani. Dusk fell as we followed winding single-lane roads through scrappy-looking towns and past hillside tea plantations where shade trees reached heavenward, until a brightly lit homestead emerged from getaway.co.za 95

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the darkness. We were shown to our rooms, spotlessly white through to the linen, by Mathew’s right-hand man, Maju Balan, who became our resident guide. We piled into a Mahindra jeep with him to visit a nearby rock pool and toured Rani’s spice garden, where he pointed out giant passion fruit, cashew fruit and one remaining vanilla creeper.

At dawn we awoke to the exotic surround-sound, layered with the occasional bus tooting a musical horn as it passed somewhere high above and the ting-a-ling of the garden gate bell, all of it heightened by virtue of being so unfamiliar.

The regular 6am solo I assumed must be Mathew, whistling as he walked to mass, but a beaming Maju informed me it’s the call of the malabar whistling thrush or, as they call it, ‘the naughty schoolboy’.

Besides that sound, one of my fondest memories of Vanilla County is a simple one: sitting on the red CLOCKWISE, FROM ABOVE oxide stoep at tea time, sipping hot Kerala is famous for its masala chai, snacking on jackfruit ornate houseboats but all petals and battered fried bananas kinds of vessels chug up as sheets of rain fell and thunder and down the backwaters; broke overhead. Maju, Mathew and charming Vijo at Emerald Rani wouldn’t blink at this scene Isle schooled Brandon in all things dhoti – the length because of its normalcy, but for me of white fabric embellished it felt so foreign and simultaneously with a gold or silver stripe so comforting because in that that’s considered formal moment I was part of their family. menswear; the main Rani shared her homemade house at Vanilla County banana jam, fudgy jackfruit plantation. preserves and coffee from their plantation, and at lunch a line of clay pots ran down the centre of the table; these are now used for serving alone since being replaced in every home we visited by the pressure cooker.

That said, much of the cooking is brisk, perfumed with curry leaves and popping mustard seeds. Except for a fairly recent fascination with masala dosa, the fermented rice crêpe illed with spiced potatoes eaten for breakfast, Kerala cuisine is seldom exported. Many of the ingredients I’d never seen before, like snake gourd and African coriander, which may explain why. Even the lemons look more like limes and the red onions separate out into cloves like garlic.

Having visited a tiny area of this sprawling and diverse country, I will never again use the hopelessly inadequate term ‘Indian food’. But it’s the good grace we encountered that stayed with me; clichéd as it may sound, I went for the food and fell in love with the people.

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Plan your trip

The Francis Residence

GETTING THERE We lew from Cape Town to Mumbai. Ethiopian Airlines lights start at R6 500 return (ethiopianairlines.com) and Emirates from R7 500 (emirates. com). From Mumbai we lew to Kochi with Jet Airways for R2 700 (jetairways.com), then travelled by car (and boat on the backwaters). We had a designated driver, which is highly recommended.

India

Kochi

Vanilla County

Kerala

Arabian Sea

Vagamon

Vembanad Lake

WHEN TO GO The best time for travelling in the south is November: it’s cooler and the post-monsoon landscape is lush. We travelled in April and May when the heat and humidity peak.

Alleppey Emerald Isle Heritage Villa

Nelpura Heritage Homestay

NEED TO KNOW An e-visa application is completed before departure and the free visa issued on arrival in India. The exchange rate is favourable for South Africans – about 5 rupees to a rand. There are strict controls on purchasing alcohol so ask a local to help.

STAY HERE Nelpura Heritage Homestay in Alleppey has a 140-year-old, traditional Keralan-style wooden structure in the garden, where guests stay.

From R1 425 for a double room, full board. nelpura.com

Vanilla County in Vagamon is a heritage family home that relects the hill-plantation life. Double room from R1 300, plus R90 pp for breakfast, R163 pp for lunch or dinner. vanillacounty.in Emerald Isle Heritage Villa, a 150-year-old property in Alleppey run by brothers Vinod and Vijo Job, has more of a guesthouse feel. Double room from R1 160 B&B, lunch or dinner R80 pp. emeraldislekerala.com The Francis Residence is a homestay at Fort Kochi

with warm hosts Francis and Rosy KP. It is meticulously kept and rooms are within the family home; we visited but didn’t stay here. Double room from R1 080 B&B, lunch or dinner from R305 pp. francisresidence.com

DO THIS Homestays have guidebooks on what to do in the area, and their own insider info.

Nelpura also ofered bicycles and a birdwatcher’s kit.

Explore nearby villages and stop for tea and snacks.

Go for a boat ride on the backwaters.

Do a cooking class with your host.

EAT HERE You will be well fed at the homestays. Know that hosts often lower spice levels for the tourist palate – we asked them to cook for us as if we were Keralan. To experience the full spectrum of local food and avoid repetition, chat to hosts about their specialities. *Prices and conversions correct at time of going to print

getaway.co.za 97

GEAR SHOP FRIDGES

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Keep cool and carry on (even in the Kalahari), with these three next-level iceboxes. BY MELANIE VAN ZYL

THE BIG CHILL R7 995, outdoorwarehouse.co.za Super high-tech with an intelligent automatic turbo cooler and memory function, the new Dometic CoolFreeze CFX 50 fridge is high on durability, too – thanks to reinforced corners, stainless-steel hinges and a robust lid coating. The 46L unit houses 72 cans and comes with dividers to keep them from crushing the lettuce. It can even function as a deep freeze as the temperature range drops down to -22°C. Bonus: it closes very quietly, which is handy in the wild.

R7 995, ironman4x4.com Its compact look belies how much space there is inside – the Ironman 4x4 IceCube Fridge 30L its 42 ordinary cans (375ml).

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HOLD THE COLD R1 990, rogueicecoolers.com It’s not a fridge, but the 18L Rogue Ice Cooler sure acts like one. We tested it in the Kalahari, tucked behind the front seat of a Fortuner, and had ice for over 24 hours. It’s a practical size for a couple itting 20 cans with a kilo of ice to pack around them. Made from a single-piece plastic mould with no joints or weak points, it’s practically indestructible, too.

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98 OCTOBER 2017

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getaway.co.za 109

GAUTENG KWAZULU NATAL

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Tel: (032) 946 2140

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UMHLANGA ROCKS

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•฀3฀bedroom,฀2฀bathroom,฀groundfl฀oor฀unit.

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NDULULA ALUXURY H TSelf Catering Safari Tents

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RAMSGATE HOLIDAY COTTAGES

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Djuma Game Reserve

holiday accommodation Self catering, Air-conditioned, Pool, Covered parking, DSTV

MPUMALANGA

Tel/Fax: +27 (0)35 590 1645 +27 (0)73 608 4367 enquiries@fisheaglesl.co.za www.fisheaglesl.co.za

Enjoy five-star luxury, self-catering, freedom to plan your own schedule and to savour the bush at your own pace.

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LIMPOPO

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LIMPOPO

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Forest Camp Wildlife •฀Accomodation฀and฀ Rehabilitation Centre full catering for 22 people �฀•฀Daily฀tours฀•฀Successful฀ at the foot of the breeding programmes Drakensberg฀•฀Birding฀and฀ •฀Management฀course฀for฀ guided game walks game farming

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Set in the Magaliesberg Mountains, this is a haven for campers, hikers, birders, budding botonists or anyone seeking peace and quiet in natural, unspoilt surroundings. No radios or noise allowed.

The reserve has crystal clear mountain pools and some of the finest scenery. Log cabins, chalets, cosy huts and camping facilities are available. Day visits welcome. Booking is essential.

www.mountain-sanctuary.co.za ฀Tel/fax฀(014)534-0114฀•฀Cell฀082-707-5538฀•฀owen@ mountain-sanctuary.co.za GREEN POINT

Hike the magical Tsitsikamma Coast in luxury!

WESTERN CAPE Imagine a shorter version of the famous Otter Trail; with luxury overnight accommodation, informative guides & without the heavy backpacks!

info@dolphintrail.co.za Tel: (042) 280 3588 www.dolphintrail.co.za

BRENTON ON SEA COTTAGES

TENIQUA TREETOPS

Self-catering Beachfront Resort - 16km from Knysna. Enjoy magnificent view and 7km of unspoilt beach. Accommodation varies from fully equipped S/C log chalets ideal fro family vacations to cosy woodenlog cabins for couples. Daily house-keeping services.

Restaurant. Convenience Shop. DSTV.

Far from the maddening crowd. Eco-friendly, selfcatering, private treehouse set in the indigenous forest. Romantic honeymoon hideout or family fun in the sun. Forest walks, large river pools, wonderful birds.

Tel: 044 381 0082/3 • Fax: 044 381 0026 reservations@brentononsea.co.za www.brentononsea.co.za

KNYSNA queries@teniquatreetops.co.za Tel: 044 356 2868 • www.teniquatreetops.co.za

112 OCTOBER 2017

KNYSNA

40 WINKS GUEST HOUSE Luxury at its best. All bedrooms en suite. Air-conditioned, DSTV, bar fridge, swimming pool, close to V&A Waterfront and all amenities.

Tel: +27 (0)21 434 7936

40winks@ct.stormnet.co.za www.40winksguesthouse.co.za

WESTERN CAPE

MOZAMBIQUE

BOTSWANA

ZAMBIA

NAMIBIA

TOURS, ACTIVITIES & HIRE

GETAWAY GUIDE

ARNISTON Luxurious self-catering thatched cottages fully equipped and serviced

Arniston Seaside Cottages www.arniston-online.co.za

Reservations (028) 445 9772

Email: cottages@arniston-online.co.za

082 7603529 • info@paternosterrentals.co.za www.paternosterrentals.co.za

PONTA MALONGANE

en route to Tuli Block, Moremi, Chobe and Vic Falls

MOZAMBIQUE, BOTSWANA, ZAMBIA & NAMIBIA SELF-CATERING AND CAMPING www.wakene.co.za 082 494 1047

Making your travels to Mozambique a pleasure...

Tel: +264 (0)66 259 903 Email: bookings@ngepicamp.com

www.ngepicamp.com

Ideally situated on the Limpopo River at the Martins Drift Border Post, Botswana.

Luxury, self catering or budget accommodation and camping available.

Pool, Restaurant & Pub! Visit Kwa Nokeng Butchery for top quality meat products.

AVOID MARTINS DRIFT BORDER POST DELAYS: WE ARRANGE VEHICLE ENTRY PERMITS

www.kwanokeng.com • clinton@botsnet.bw Tel: +267 491 5908 • Fax: +267 491 5928 • Cell: +267 729 59949

THE BEST OF MOZAMBIQUE:

Tel: +27 (0)11 465 3427 res@mozcon.com • www.mozcon.com

Treehouses • Campsites • Guided Walks Boat Cruises • Game Drives • Fishing Restaurant • Bush Pub

GATEWAY TO BOTSWANA

TOURS, ACTIVITIES & HIRE

Safari Guide Courses

072 625 4709 or 014 007 0621 info@limpopotraining.co.za www.limpopotraining.co.za

getaway.co.za 113

INSIDER’S GUIDE

PLACES YOU CAN GET TO IN A LONG WEEKEND

Ilonde van Hoolwerf/Art Publishers/Africa Media Online

THE INSIDER Ondela Mlandu grew up in East London and now lives in Cape Town. But she will be forever loyal to ‘Slummies’, as it’s afectionately known. No one knows where, when or how that nickname came about, but don’t take it too literally, she says. It’s a wonderful place.

Looking out over the Bufalo River, towards the sea. East London is the only river port in the country.

Return to the nest East London has four rivers, many beautiful beaches and the best milkshakes in South Africa.

Getaway’s ONDELA MLANDU returns to reairm her love for her hometown

INSIDER’S GUIDE EAST LONDON

‘Why is there trafic here?’

I grumble as I drive over the Buffalo River Bridge from the airport. Trafic in East London was a foreign concept when I was younger.

I know it takes more or less 15 minutes to get from one place to another. Not any more, clearly. With a famous Shamrock steak and kidney pie in one hand (these pies, available at any garage shop or cafe, are found only in the Eastern Cape) and my phone in the other hand, I take an image of Buffalo River to upload to Instagram later.

It is quiet by the river, with no people in sight, and it seems to go on forever.

East London is the only city in South Africa with four rivers (the other three low into the sea at Nahoon, Bonza Bay and Gonubie). The Buffalo is the largest of the four, some 126 kilometres long and 140 metres wide where it meets the ocean.

But it’s not the kind of river you can take romantic strolls along, as there are no paths, pavements or promenades. It’s both undeveloped and overdeveloped, home to the only river port in the country.

A memory crosses my mind: trying out

for the rowing team in Grade 8 on the river.

My biggest concern was falling into the water – I mean, who knew what lurked underneath the surface?

Next to the harbour is the Daimler (Mercedez-Benz) car-manufacturing plant that is responsible for connecting this part of the Eastern Cape to the world, and the major industry in town. It funds the Coastal Education & Visitors Centre at Nahoon, which, if seen from the air, looks like a footprint. The centre is part of the Nahoon Point Nature Reserve, established in 2004 to protect dune forest, beach, rocky shore, numerous caves and its ‘archaeological potential’, according to Kevin Cole, project coordinator of the reserve management committee.

Zandile Dlova, the River Control Oficer responsible for patrolling Buffalo City coastal zone and dealing with stranded dolphins and whales, gives me a tour of the reserve, including Bat’s Cave – home to masses of Egyptian fruit bats. The trail leading there is breathtaking and well preserved. To my delight, I learn there are a number of trails through the reserve, designed to explore this special part of the

The boardwalk at Nahoon Point Nature Reserve, which has 2,6 kilometres of protected coastline.

116 OCTOBER 2017

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP A room in the homely Ann Bryant Art Gallery; Eastern Cape souvenirs at Pinecreek Farmstall; Ginger & Co serves breakfasts for the whole day; the railway at Pinecreek runs on weekends – great for kiddies rides.

East London coast. I had no idea there was such a natural treasure here. If I knew then what I know now, my weekends would have been more productive. During my schooling days, not more than a decade ago, my friends and I attended derby days at the boys’ school across the road, and had sleepovers and slipped off for a night of dancing our youth away at Numbers – the popular club in town (sadly, it closed in 2014).

There have been urban changes over the years, too, which explains the heavier trafic. There are roadworks everywhere,

construction sites and new developments – the Gillwell Taxi Retail Park in the CBD, built in 2015, was the irst of its kind in SA, combining a mall with a taxi rank.

Avanzas and small private cars (old Cressidas and Fords) are used as taxis in East London; we call them ‘amaphela’, which means cockroaches.

The following morning I head to Arcadia, a semi-industrial area where my mother used to buy anything we needed for the house – tiles, plumbing, kitchen appliances, window frames. I’ve come here

for breakfast at Ginger & Co because my friend Yolisa never stops talking about the great decor and coffee there.

‘It was risky placing the business here,’ says owner Benji Gane. ‘Our friends and family said it wouldn’t work, but we took the risk. East London takes its time to get ‘with it’ but people enjoy the industrial feel of the area and it’s easily accessible.’ I enjoy a bacon-and-avo croissant, and as I’m leaving the restaurant I smell the ocean, which reminds me of one of the best things about East London. I drive towards it.

3 must-visit beaches in East London 1. GONUBIE BEACH This Blue Flag beach is eight kilometres from the city. It’s a peaceful retreat or great for a family day out, and ofers good swimming. It also has an estuary, high dunes, tidal pool, bird sanctuary and 500 metres of boardwalk built to protect the vegetation.

2. COVE ROCK BEACH This is one of East London’s inest ishing spots, 15 minutes from the city centre near the airport. The sandy white beach is secluded and has several ishing pools.

Though it’s not great for swimming, it is one of the most scenic beaches, and a key whale-watching spot.

3. NAHOON BEACH This is home to local surfers and the East London Surf & Life Saving Club.

Since 1974, the Discovery Surfers’ Challenge has taken place here (surferschallenge.co.za). Nahoon is a family favourite on Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve.

getaway.co.za 117

INSIDER’S GUIDE EAST LONDON

FROM TOP Lavender Blue Market is illed with cute country-style decor; a cool minimalist room at Arbour Lodge; the boardwalk and viewing deck at the aquarium is 11 metres above the ocean.

Quigney is in this direction and was one of the irst suburbs in East London. It’s where the Wimpy is that my father and I always visited after school; the waitresses knew what we wanted and where we would sit without us having to say a word.

It’s also where the East London Aquarium is, the oldest in South Africa (opened back in 1931). I love anything that involves the ocean, but I ind I have a one-of-a kind thirst that only a double-thick milkshake from the Friesland Milk Bar can quench. It started out as a dairy; the original shop has been in Quigney since 1924, and is a true landmark. Milkshake in hand, I head over to the German Settlers’ Memorial on the Esplanade to drink it in the company of a family made of stone, overlooking Quigney Beach. Along the Esplanade, people sell straw baskets, colourful beadwork jewellery and wood carvings of the Big Five to tourists.

A strong feeling of nostalgia draws me to another suburb, Selborne. The houses on this side of town are beautiful and it’s where my old school is, across the road from the East London Museum.

For old times’ sake, I go into the museum.

The smell is still as distinct and the stuffed animals behind the glass look as real as they did when I was a curious 10-year-old, in a below-knee-length skirt, excited to be on a school excursion. The coelacanth that was discovered in 1938 on the East London docks is still one of the headliners at the museum. It also has the only dodo egg in existence and the world’s oldest human fossil footprint, left at Nahoon Point 124 000 years ago (the ‘archaeological value’ of Nahoon, as Kevin Cole described it, suddenly makes more sense).

I go down the road to another favourite spot – the Ann Bryant Art Gallery, housed in a family home built in 1905. It still has the creaky wooden loors and stained-glass windows and feeling of peace I loved so much as a child. The curious painting of the Chinese lady is still there. While there have been quite a few changes in East London, some things remain the same; there’s a lot of comfort and joy in that. I sit in the garden, where we’d eat our packed lunch on those school outings, lean back and smile. This is what home feels like.

Where do the locals go?

Ntumi Kondile, brand ambassador ‘I love Urban Junction in Nahoon. You can almost feel the love that’s gone into the food. It’s also quiet so you can enjoy your meal in peace.’ 043-735-1319

Sethu Pota, project administrator ‘I love the ambience at Grazia on the Esplanade. The best is sitting outside, under the umbrellas, Champagne in hand, taking in the view of the ocean.’

043-722-2009

Sasha Andrews, sports marketing assistant ‘I love the ocean, so a paddle on the Nahoon River or a boat ride with Barge Cruises is always a win.’ 082-783-7115

Mbulelo Ntlonti, candidate attorney ‘I enjoy going to Hand Made Cofees in Nahoon. They have the best moccaccinos in town. I always go back for more.’ 079-388-7654

118 OCTOBER 2017

N2

Plan your trip The N2 connects Cape Town via Port Elizabeth to East London, and on the other side via Umtata to Durban. The N6 connects to Bloemfontein.

FlySafair serves East London Airport from Cape Town, Durban and Joburg. Flights from R1 059 on travelstart.co.za.

ROA

Gonubie River D

Gonubie Hotel

N2

OA BONZA BAY R

Arbour Lodge

D

Quenera River

N2

Bonza Bay

Ann Bryant Art Gallery

Museum

Park Place

HR

Ginger & Co

RD S T REE T

Yacht Club

Nahoon River OA

D

Nahoon Point Nature Reserve Mercedes-Benz Coastal Education & Visitors Centre

East London

Friesland Milk Bar Aquarium

Indian Ocean

ESPLANADE STREET

R7

2

Buffalo River

AC

R72

BE

OX F O

Explore Nahoon Point. The nature reserve has a 400m boardwalk trail to the beach, with the best views of the coast. There is also the Mermaid’s Pool, a snorkelling spot near Nahoon Reef. Free entry. End of Nahoon Reef Drive. 043-735-5015 Learn about the coastline at the Mercedes-Benz Coastal Education & Visitors Centre.

This eco-tourism facility is a wonderful place to gain

M A IN

Lavender Blue Market

STAY HERE

DO THIS

02

Pinecreek

GETTING THERE

Arbour Lodge ofers B&B and self-catering, not far from Bonza Bay beach. All rooms have a private entrance, braai and kitchenette. There is also a swimming pool. From R750 double B&B; self-catering from R650 for two (units sleep up to four). arbourlodge.co.za Park Place Boutique Guest House has 19 beautiful rooms, each with its own lair, in a Victorian manor close to the Ann Bryant Art Gallery. There is an on-site restaurant (with a rather exotic menu), a barlounge and lap pool. Rooms from R795 per unit. parkplaceguesthouse.co.za Gonubie Hotel, very close to the beach, is a 30-room family-run place with a friendly atmosphere. Enjoy your meals in the dining room with views of the sea. R875 for two sharing B&B. Self-catering units nearby cost R1 200 (sleep ive). gonubiehotel.co.za

R1

knowledge of the natural history of this area and how it can be protected. Free entry but tips for the guides are welcome. End of Nahoon Reef Drive. 043-735-5015 Enjoy the Bufalo River on a boat with Southern Cross Cruises (around R180 pp, 082-938-6275); they also do harbour and ocean trips. The Bufalo River Yacht Club has a great pub called Uncle Ben’s.

Pontoon Road. 082-938-6275 Appreciate the ocean at the East London Aquarium. I love watching the seals at play in their pool, and the penguin feeding. There is a boardwalk with views as far as Nahoon Point. Entry R46 adults, R26 for children. 13 Esplanade Street, Quigney Beach. 043-705-2637 Relax in the garden at the Ann Bryant Art Gallery – it’s serene, well kept and a great place to read a book. The portrait of a Manchu lady was donated from a Chinese exhibition in 1953. Free entrance, donations are welcome. 9 St Marks Road,

Selborne. 043-722-4044 Go back in time at the East London Museum. Yes, it’s illed with stufed animals but some of these species are no longer around. There are also great displays on Khoi-San and Xhosa clan history. Entry R20. 319 Oxford Street. 043-743-0686

EAT HERE Ginger & Co serves mouthwatering breakfasts for as little as R40. The staf make great conversation and you don’t wait long for your food. It also has free Wi-Fi. 16 Bowls Road, Arcadia. 043-743-5576

PARK PLACE GUEST HOUSE

Friesland Milk Bar makes over 20 diferent lavours of milkshake and ice cream, and locals swear it’s the best in SA. The recipe remains closely guarded. From R23 for a shake. 49 Tennyson Street, Quigney Beach. 043-722-3260 Pinecreek is a country escape just outside Beacon Bay, good for breakfast, lunch, tea or dinner. By day, there is a mini steam train and playground for kids, plus a farmstall, crystal jewellery shop, beautiful tea garden and deck (great for picnics). The restaurant has a romantic ambience if you want a special night out. Holm Hill, of the R102. 043-732-1101 Lavender Blue Market stocks home-baked goods, free-range eggs, fresh fruit and veg and a selection of meats. It’s good to see the foodie-market trend catching on in East London. Open daily, but it really buzzes on Saturday and Sunday mornings. Old Gonubie Road.

043-732-1172 *Prices correct at time of going to print

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WHERE NEXT A DESTINATION TO INSPIRE YOU IN NOVEMBER’S GETAWAY

3km...

Teagan Cunnife

That’s how far Greyton Eco Camp is from the madding crowd – if one can say that of Greyton’s quiet main street. And yet the hoo-hooing of owls and calling of nightjars is as clear as the star-illed skies at night. That’s what we’re looking for in November’s of-the-grid camping feature: a reconnect with nature in places that may surprise you. Pitch a tent, swim in a river and nap under shady trees – all with a clear conscience, because the campsites we’ve found all around the country leave behind only the barest of carbon footprints.

Warm nights and warmer days mean it’s summer. Let’s make the most of it.

Feed your

WANDERLUST in the Far East

Whether it’s oriental customs and architecture or cutting-edge technology and futuristic style, discover it all. Choose from 23 destinations on emirates.com/za Bali Bangkok Beijing Cebu Clark Guangzhou Hanoi Ho Chi Minh City

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DON’T JUST VISIT, LIVE IT.

For more information, please contact your local travel agent, visit emirates.com/za, or call Emirates on 0860 123 155.

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