Seneca Today Winter 2015-2016

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Leading

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on & Off the ice Team Captain Brian Gionta

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Experience wintertime fun in western new york

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Cellars of Distinction, Winter Roasts, and the history of Lacrosse.

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Experience the rich history and traditions of our Native Culture. Discover one-of-a-kind, handcrafted treasures of the skilled artisans of the Seneca and neighboring Haudenosaunee members. You’ll uncover mukluks and moccasins, beautiful baskets and pottery, authentic jewelry and dolls, soapstone sculptures, art and literature.

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Contributors

Lynn Ogryzlo Lynn is a food, wine and travel writer, author of three international award-winning cookbooks and regular contributor to REV Publications. Lynn specializes in culinary tourism covering regional cuisine destinations, slow food, culinary holidays, wine, spirits and “la dolca vita”. She can be reached for questions or comments at lynnogryzlo.com.

jill tham Convinced she would have made a better teen in the 80s instead of the 90s, Jill’s passion for writing came after seeing the movie Stand

by Me. When Jill is not moonlighting as a freelance writer, she is an Elementary teacher juggling her three children. Along with being a regular contributor to Today Magazine, Jill’s articles have been featured in Canadian Running, Pedal, Allergic Living and @OECTA. jilltham.wordpress.com @JillBT

notes from the

EDITOR Welcome to the winter edition of Today Magazine: Seneca My favorite thing to do when I visit a new city is to hit the ground running. Explore everything! Down alleyways, around corners, up stairs…if it looks intriguing, I’m investigating it. And Western New York is great for exploring. There’s always something new opening up, or somewhere old that I’ve only just heard of. If your idea of fun is the same as mine, check out some unique Western New York experiences on page 45.

Another of my favorite things to do when I’m travelling is to get a taste of the local dishes.

Find out where the best chefs and restaurants are, and learn about a place through the local cuisine. Check out the stories on page 10 and page 20 for an exciting look at some unique Seneca flavors.

Winter is a pretty beautiful time of the year here, and sure, it’s cold, but don’t let that stop you from experiencing all that Western New York has to offer.

Enjoy your vacation, and have a great winter season!

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food & drink 10 Roasted to Perfection:

Buffalo’s Nick Pitillo talks his favorite winter dish.

14 Hot Toddy Season

The most famous warm cocktail of all is the hot toddy. It’s a mixture of sugar, lemon and whiskey warmed with boiling water.

It was the best-known cure for anything that ailed you during the days of prohibition. Today we still make hot toddies but now they serve as a base for creativity.

20 Passionate About Pairing

Like a winemaker is to wine, so is a chef to the food.

24 Risotto:

Sophisticated, Luxurious & Delicious

While the technique for making risotto is not difficult, it requires attention, patience and knowing when to add each ingredient.

lifestyle & Culture 36 Leading On and Off the Ice:

Getting up close and personal with Buffalo Sabres Captain Brian Gionta.

40 the magic of the little Black Dress

A historic look back at what has become a staple in every woman’s closet.

45 Get Outside and Get Active

Get your winter legs ready – from snowshoeing to tubing – Western New York is waiting for you to trek through it’s landscape of winter activities.

48 Become Undone

Low ponies, messy buns and brick red lips;

this winter, the beauty trend is less fuss and deconstructed.

54 The Creator’s Game

Lacrosse is the traditional sport of the Hodinöhšyönih (People of the Longhouse), the six Iroquois nations (Seneca, Cayuga, Onondaga, Onieda, Mohawk, and Tuscarora) who inhabited the north eastern region of the current United States for thousands of years.

58 Preserving a Past, Providing a Future:

The New Art & Culture Center at Ganondagan.

here. see. do 60 entertainment listings

Check out upcoming shows at Seneca Resorts & Casinos.

64 Western New York Events

Got cabin fever? The city hosts festivals, parades and Buffalo On Tap – so go on, explore.

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toperf

food & drink

roasted

By Lynn Ogryzlo

ection Buffalo’s Nick Pitillo talks his favorite winter dish

It’s one of the most comforting aromas known to mankind, one of the most succulent feelings to nosh between your teeth and one of the most soothing meals you can have on a cold winters day. Mothers knew this well, that’s where the tradition of Sunday roasts came from.

But the traditional Sunday roast began a little differently than our roasts today.

Today we’re more inclined to buy a premium prime rib or a tenderloin for a Sunday roast. But it wasn’t always like that.

“We were poor, we had to buy the cheaper cuts and roast them low and slow,” laughs restaurateur, Nick Pitillo. Nick owns Osteria 166 in downtown Buffalo, Villaggio in Ellicottville and his newest venture, Mercato also in downtown Buffalo.

All are known for their creative and modern approach to cooking but ask Nick the best way to cook a roast and in one, long, drawn-out word he says, "slowly."

Nick remembers the scrumptious, fork tender roasts his mother would pull from the oven. The kitchen would be filled with the savory aromas of meat and spices and he can still taste the lip-smacking juiciness of the sweet meat as it literally melted between his teeth. Now when he smells the roasting pork laced with fennel or veal shanks simmering in tomatoes and oregano it takes him right back to his childhood.

Roasting is cooking with love.

So why is the low and slow method so magical? Roasts are about 75 percent moisture with the water bound up in the cells. As the heat increases, the proteins shrink and the moisture is forced out either into the pan or evaporates completely. Too much heat and it has the effect of squeezing a sponge resulting in a dense, dry roast.

However, understanding this process, we can use this knowledge to manage the heat and evaporation during cooking to produce a tender, juicy roast. This is what low and slow is all about. >>

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These kinds of roasts are not traditional from an American sense but from an Italian sense, they’re everything.

If you’re not a convert yet, try Nick’s famous Porchetta. A traditional Italian roast made from the shoulder of the pig and tied with the fat-rich belly. It’s butterflied, lathered with a pesto-like concoction, bound together and roasted for 8 to 12 hours or more. In Nick’s case he uses a mixture of herbs and spices, most notable, ground fennel.

“Most don’t even notice the fennel, they just love it,” says Nick. He goes through almost one thousand roasted Porchetta every season.

That’s a lot of roasts considering they’re only made in the coldest months of the year. “We go through so much Porchetta we thought of a food truck,” he laughs as he finishes his thoughts in silence.

At Osteria 166, each Porchetta is tied tightly and roasted at low temperatures throughout the night, then they’re removed from the ovens in the early morning. The restaurant is filled with the savory, warm flavors of love from the ovens. Nick describes it as, “waking from a dream so good you could eat it!”

At the restaurants they serve Porchetta traditional style, sliced thin and piled over a fresh bun. Theoretically, it’s like an Italian pulled pork, but without the barbecue part.

They’re served with the restaurant’s house made potato chips. It’s a quintessential, casual winter dish.

It’s easy to make a Porchetta at home if you have your butcher trim, butterfly and tie your roast. When you get it home, untie it and fill it with your favorite mixture of savory spices and tie it back up. Traditional Italian Porchetta will have a final layer of pigskin wrapped around it, so the slow roasting is also self basting. The great part about this style is it

produces loads of crackling, pigskin. “No, we don’t do the crackling (at the restaurant),” laments Nick. “There just wouldn’t be enough for everyone and we don’t want to start a war now do we?”

Nick stresses that picking a cut of meat suitable for the low and slow method isn’t difficult if you’re familiar with the bone structure of pigs. You’ll know that the least tender cuts of meat lie where there is the most movement and therefore the connective tissue will be tougher and demand very slow cooking with moisture. That’s why Nick insists the shoulder is laced with the fat forward belly so it creates plenty of succulent, moistness during baking.

Roasting Porchetta the low and slow method doesn’t use liquid, but ask him about his popular Osso Bucco? Well, that’s another story. The Osso Bucco at Osteria 166 is braised low and slow – and braising is a cooking method that uses liquid.

When cooking with liquid, the liquid should never boil, but only simmer lightly for best results. Unlike traditional veal shanks in the classic Italian dish, Nick uses pork shanks.

“We love pig around here,” says Nick. The three-finger thick shanks are slowly braised in a thick tomato and herb sauce that bubbles lightly over the stove. He pulls one from the pot and lays it on the plate. He digs into the pork shank with a spoon and it literally falls apart under the pressure, while the juices run in every direction. He offers me a taste. The rich flavors comfort me while the velvety, soft meat succumbs to the pressure of my teeth into sublime deliciousness – yum.

Nick takes the tip of his knife and digs some marrow out of the centre of the bone. He

spreads it across a piece of bread he just tore from a loaf. “It’s one of the benefits of Osso Bucco,” he smiles and savors the little moment.

Osso Bucco is the most popular dish in his restaurants, served with a rich, creamy risotto, “it’s the quintessential cold weather dish.”

Maybe that’s why they go through almost 200 Osso Bucco dishes in a week!

When you do it right, low and slow roasting or low and slow braising melts the collagen, turning it into a rich liquid – gelatin.

This gives meat a lot of flavor and a wonderful silky texture. It also retains the nutrients, vitamins and flavor making it not only delicious but good for you too. “These kinds of roasts are not traditional from an American sense but from an Italian sense, they’re everything,” says Nick.

So what temperature is low anyway? In the restaurant, the special ovens can be set at the same temperature as the desired internal doneness: 125 to 130 degrees Farenheight for rare, 130 to 135 for medium-rare, 140 for medium.

Most home ovens cannot be set that low. Most can be set at 170 or 200 degrees Farenheight.

However, a perfect roast can most certainly be produced at that temperature. “Just put it in and forget about it,” says Nick, “anyone who works at roasting ruins the roast. Leave it alone and the roast will do the rest.”

We all like our meat tender and juicy and roasting slowly with an inexpensive cut of meat is where all the good stuff happens. A roast is the consummate comfort food for supper. Thinking of his mother Nick says, “what could be a better way of making people feel that someone in the kitchen has been thinking and caring about you?” TM

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HOT toddy Season serve it warm and strong Lynn Ogryzlo It’s a sure sign of winter. When the last leaf falls from the tree, we naturally turn our sights inside to simmering soup, steaming stews and warm mugs of hot chocolate. We’re nesting, we’re warming our souls, bracing for the spine-chilling winter that lay ahead.

It was a trip to a Christmas Market where everyone was sipping on hot toddy’s and mulled wine that got me to thinking – as it gets cold outside, don’t just dust off the crock pot, turn up the heat on your favorite liquor bottles! >>

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“

It’s hot toddy season and just like Frank you too can reinvent the quintessential warm drink into dozens of different flavor combinations

“

Master bartender, Frank Ryan of The Western Door steak house always says warm drinks in the winter tend to sooth our psyche. It’s all about survival. Working in a world of anything goes cocktails, he knows there are times when tradition, comfort and warmth suit our sipping needs and moods best.

The most famous warm cocktail of all is the hot toddy. It’s a mixture of sugar, lemon and whiskey warmed with boiling water. It was the best-known cure for anything that ailed you during the days of prohibition. Today we still make hot toddies but now they serve as a base for creativity. I’ve been known some to add cloves and others use brown sugar and bourbon for a caramel flavor.

Frank flexes his creative muscles in a warm drink he calls Ma’s Apple Pie. It’s brandy, amaretto and instead of boiling water, he uses warm apple cider. He pours this into a glass rimmed with cinnamon sugar and garnishes it with a dried apple ring. Yes, he recommends it at The Western Door steakhouse when the snow is flying outside because, “it keeps you warm, especially at the thought of going out in a storm.”

It’s hot toddy season and just like Frank, you too can reinvent the quintessential warm drink into dozens of different flavor combinations.

All you have to do is replace the hot water with one of your favorite beverages like Earl Grey tea. Or how about hibiscus tea and tequila? Both are perfect for tea lovers. Use a spicy apple cider with lots of cinnamon and star anise for an Apple Cider Hot Toddy. Got a can of fruity raspberry lemonade concentrate left from the summer? Ok, then warm it up, add a teaspoon of honey that will turn extra yummy with delicious honey whisky.

The reincarnations of hot toddies are limited only by your imagination. For example, only good things can happen when you mix pumpkin

butter and rum together. Add a bit of brown sugar and pumpkin pie spice and you’ve got a Pumpkin Butter Hot Toddy. This one should definitely be topped with whipped cream and a dusting of cinnamon!

Another hot toddy combines two of my favorite things, candy canes and Kahlua. Pull a candy cane from the Christmas tree, crush it and simmer up a Pink Peppermint Hot Toddy with Kahlua and vodka. Use milk for a creamier version and add a dash of peppermint syrup for a boost of festive flavor.

If you need to make hot toddies in bulk, thank goodness you dusted off the crockpot because instead of making dinner, it will keep your drinks warm for hours and fill your room with delicious aromas. Let your guests dip a ladle into the pot and help themselves throughout the evening. In a crockpot you have the added advantage of infusing flavors slowly, like ginger that will infuse a lemony hot toddy with spiciness.

It’s the perfect antidote to chilly winter weather and some claim that ginger is nature’s antibiotic – a perfect drink to keep winter colds at bay.

Start it in the afternoon, serve it in the evening, a Cranberry, Sage and Black Peppercorn Hot Toddy is herbally, citrusy and the color of a glistening, ruby red jewel. It’s an aromatic mixture of cranberries, whole black peppercorns and sage leaves simmering in the crockpot with honey, a bottle of white wine and a cup of Benedictine – yum!

There are a few things you should keep in mind when using your slow cooker to make hot drinks. First, turn it to high to bring the liquids to a maximum temperature. Then turn it to low and let the flavors simmer away. Add the alcohol only at the end, a few minutes before serving.

You’ll love your crockpot hot toddies because they fill the air with the aroma of savory spices. Remember that there is only one way to serve a hot toddy and that’s warm and strong. >>

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Hot toddy Classic YOU’LL NEED ¼ cup whiskey 1 tablespoon honey (or more to your liking) 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice ½ cup boiling water garnish with lemon slice, cinnamon stick and/or star anise DIRECTIONS Combine all ingredients in a warmed mug and stir to combine. Garnish and enjoy.

Hot toddy Classic CROCK POT

YOU’LL NEED 6 cups apple cider or apple juice ¼ cup sugar 1 – 9 inch stick cinnamon 8 whole cloves 4 star anise 1 large orange, sliced 1 lemon, sliced ½ cup bourbon

DIRECTIONS Add apple cider, sugar, cinnamon, cloves and star anise into a crock-pot, cover and cook on low-heat setting for about two hours or on high for one hour. Add orange and lemon slices. Cover and cook for 15 minutes more.

Turn cooker to low-heat setting, add the bourbon and serve. TM

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passionate ABOUT PAIRING

BY LYNN OGRYZLO

S

o you think this is one more intimidating article about food and wine matching by a so-called food and wine expert? You’re probably right. But let me defend myself.

I’ve worked in the wine industry in various capacities for over twentyfive years. Yeah, that’s a long time. My accomplishments are admirable with many articles and awards under my belt, I’m a trained sommelier and I’ve not only taught many courses on wine but I’ve written an entire college wine program. So when I tell you my definition of a food and wine expert, you really should listen to me.

A food and wine expert is someone who has tasted every wine in the world, has eaten every food in the world and has eaten and drunk them together to judge their pleasurability. That is a food and wine expert.

Yes you guessed it, I’m not an expert, nor do I know of any. But that’s not to say I don’t have a great time pursuing my goal to be an expert and in common pursuit, I know plenty of others who are all passionate about perfecting their own food and wine experiences. >>

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here’s only one way to learn the craft and that’s to eat food and drink wine. The old adage of practice makes perfect is exactly how it’s done. The logic is flawless yet true. Like the Holy Grail, the perfect pairings are rare but worth a lifetime of effort.

My most memorable flavor experience I’ve had was at a dinner put on my Iron Horse Winery of California. They were serving their uber-full, rich Cabernet Sauvignon (don’t remember which one). The wine poured from the bottle into the glass in one velvety, black, luscious stream of palate seduction. It was a small pour so I didn’t dare drink any before the food arrived. I swirled it around on the white tablecloth and lifted it to my nose. That’s when I was slapped in the face with a thick wall of aroma intensity; smoldering ash, baked blackberries and a fresh cedar lined closet. It was classic, quintessential.

The chef, who had spent weeks experimenting with different dishes for this dinner decided to serve a common chocolate lava cake. Forget what I just said, there’s nothing common about a little plate being placed in front of you with a glistening mound of moist blackish-brown chocolate hidden under a veil of dusted cocoa. As the spoon glided through the center, a gush of dense, black lava-like liquid oozed out and tried to spread across the plate. If it were not for my quick scooping action I may have missed the most glorious food and wine experience I’ve had to date.

Memories are precious but what’s priceless is the ability to repeat a great food and wine experience. Never with the same foods and wines for there is much more to the perfect experience than what takes place on the palate.

Considerations like the time of year, ambience of the setting, people you’re with, mood of the occasion, etc, etc, etc. No, people who quest for the perfection in food and wine experiences never know when we’ll be struck dumb with another gastronomic shower – that’s what keeps us going.

Memories are precious but what’s priceless is the ability to repeat a great food and wine experience While the Iron Horse dinner was a one time event, I can enjoy a Grass-Fed Rib Eye Steak from Black River Farms with Rosso Piceno (a rich red blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano blend) any time at The Western Door restaurant or an oven roasted sea bass with lemon shallot spinach and fennel scented onion rings with a glass of Masi Masianco Pinot Grigio at Patria Restaurant. I just love the way these two taste together!

Just as the wine makes a difference, so does the food. Food should have a measure of complexity to compliment the wine. If it’s a simple house wine, a simple meal will do, but if you really want to explore the multifaceted complexities that a well crafted food and wine pairing offers, you’ll need the complexity of a well crafted meal. Like a winemaker is to wine, so is a chef to the food.

No one knows this more than Lam Vongsakoun, Sommelier and Director of Food and Beverage at Seneca Niagara Casino. He and his team are working to make sure you have great dishes and wines to create your own food and wine memories.

“Our wine programs are evolving to be more approachable,” explains Lam. Part of their new wine program will be to offer more wines by the glass. At La Cascata there are over 30 luxury, entry level and value offerings available by the glass so diners can experiment with a new wine or a high-end wine without having to commit to the entire bottle. “The meals here are amazing, so the wine has to be,” says the experienced food and wine lover.

In the luxury category, Lam stocks red wines that need a few years to several decades to achieve their mellow, multifaceted maturity. These will pair so beautifully with the cast-iron porterhouse at the Western Door. Why would they age their own wines? Lam explains, “by the time they’re ready to drink, they’re almost impossible to find and if you could find them, you wouldn’t be able to afford them. Besides that, when you age wines yourself they’ll probably be in better condition than most older bottles you’ll find withering away on retailers shelves.”

The wines-by-the-glass program at The Western Door will grow from 18 to 30 wines with plenty of new offerings to explore like French whites; Sancerre’s from the Loire Valley, perhaps a new Viognier from Rhone or Semillon from Bordeaux. At Seneca, it’s all about the best wines that marry well with the food. It’s not just wine for the sake of wine. “We’re going for the full experience,” promises Lam.

Yes, the conditions are ripe for a food and wine playground in any of the Seneca Resorts Casino restaurants but, how should one begin?

What do you choose? First, pick a dish on the menu that excites you.

There are many to choose from like the Pine Nut Crusted Rack of Lamb at La Cascata to the Grilled Pork Loin with Apple Orchard Relish at The Three Sisters Restaurant.

Then decide if you like your wine and food to complement each other or contrast. Not thought of that before? It works like this; the components of sweetness, saltiness, sourness and bitterness are the elements your tongue will pick up on. The fifth element is umami which some still argue is not a real taste, but my feeling is that it describes a taste the other four miss. So yes, it’s important.

In addition to the above-mentioned criteria, other food and wine considerations include ethnic cuisine, spicy dishes, seasonality and regional specialties. Depending on how you combine them, you can get a complementary or contrasting result. Either will offer you a great dining experience, it’s just about getting more of what you like.

So while one can still enjoy a rich Bordeaux with a roasted rack of lamb with great pleasure, it’s the million other heavenly and pleasurable possibilities that will go unexperienced if you’re not in the game. So it pays to play!

Up in Ellicottville, Ray Patchkofsky, Director of Food and Beverage for Seneca Casino agrees with Lam’s wine philosophy but rolls it out a little differently. He’s developed a 20 wine bottle selection all under $20 program for Patria Restaurant. You can taste the wine before you purchase so it takes the fear out of trying a new wine. For example, diners who taste the Barone Fini Pinot Grigio with the pan seared scallops with risotto cake are hooked.

Staff is another priority in a good food and wine program. “Our staff go beyond recommending the traditional food and wine matches and they educate our diners on the characteristics of wine and food and why they may like the match,” says Ray. The staff will take the traditional order of things like white wine before red, young before old and dry before sweet and give them a fresh appraisal as well as take into consideration any special occasion or emotional feelings for food.

The rest is up to the diner. In a playground of potential food and wine pairings it easier to hit the jackpot in the dining room than ever before. TM

todaymagazine.ca 23

ophisticated, Luxurious & Deliciou

isott

By Lynn Ogryzlo

“Don’t touch my risotto!”

yells Chef Jason Morgan of la Cascata Restaurant. Jason is a perfectionist and he knows his risotto. He also knows, if you don’t know what you’re doing you’ll end up with a bland mount of sticky, gluey rice and he won’t let that happen, not on his watch.

Risotto, literally translated, means “Little Rice” and is unique among all rice dishes. First, unlike other rices, the ingredients are usually cooked with the rice rather than combining the two parts after the rice is cooked. Second, risotto rice has a creamy texture when cooked, yet it maintains a ‘toothy bite’. This is mainly because it is based on specific varieties of rice that are grown in Northern Italy.

The special rice used for making risotto is a white, starchy, medium grain that can absorb far more liquid then long-grain rice. Of the four types of rice grown in Italy, only superfine or fino varieties are suitable for risotto. The best-known and most widely available superfine is Alborio. Other lesser-known varieties include Carnaroli, Baldo, Roma, Maratelli and the fino Vialone Nano.

Chef Mogan uses Alborio rice exclusively because of its slightly nutty flavour and for the way he can release its magnificence in the pot. While the technique for making risotto is not difficult, it requires attention, patience and knowing when to add each ingredient. After that, it’s all about designing the flavors to make it sing. >>

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While Chef Morgan loves to play with different foods of the seasons, there’s one risotto he just won’t mess with. It’s the restaurant’s consistently popular, leek risotto that is partnered with the grilled salmon on the restaurant menu. It is, for anyone who has tasted it, just glorious!

I asked the chef to share some of the secrets to his delicious risotto and he walked me through the entire process. First, the leeks are sautéed until they’re tender and until they’re just beginning to release their aromas in the kitchen. Yes, smells in the kitchen are as important to notice as any other sign of doneness.

When the aromas begin to fill his kitchen, Chef Morgan pours the Alborio rice over the sizzling leeks and flips the skillet a few times so each grain jumps up, mingles with the leeks and falls back down to soak up the delicious leek juices. When the pan begins to dry, he pours in a bit of white wine. It spits and sputters before settling down to feed the plump, hungry grains of rice. It’s an elaborate show that builds flavor.

The technique for preparing risotto is as important as using the right variety of rice. In making traditional risotto, onion and garlic are briefly cooked in butter and oil then the rice is added to the pan.

If you’re making a risotto where the vegetables play a greater role, as in a mushroom risotto or squash, the vegetables are cooked in the pan to release their juices and flavor, then they’re removed to prevent them from “boiling” during the rice cooking process. Whether you remove the vegetables or not, the rice is always stirred in the juices until all the grains are thoroughly coated and have soaked up all the flavors in the pan.

Most risotto recipes go right into adding stock but in Chef Morgan’s case, he spills in some delicious white wine – never red, for it will stain the rice. “It adds dimension and another layer of flavor,” he explains.

These secret little tips are the difference between a good risotto and a memorable one.

Next - the stock. In la Cascata kitchen the vegetable stock is always simmering when it is added to the rice. Cold or room temperature stock would only shock the rice cooking on the stovetop and because you’re adding the hot stock a ladleful at a time, cold liquids would slow the rice’s ability to absorb as much flavor.

That’s right, here is where patience pays off. The hot stock is added to the rice in very small amounts and only when the rice has absorbed almost all of the liquid, is more added. It’s like starving the rice so it’s eager to suck up more broth and consequently more flavor. It’s about >>

While the technique for making risotto is not difficult, it requires attention, patience and knowing when to add each ingredient. After that, it’s all about designing the flavors to make it sing.

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standing over the pot, adding liquid, stirring, waiting until it’s almost dry, stirring more, waiting until the hard rice succumbs to the relentless assault of hot broth under the strong hand of a constant stirrer. “You should never leave risotto to fend for itself,” warns chef. Turn your back for just one second and you could burn the risotto. It takes patience and attention and in a busy casino kitchen it’s a huge gamble, but Chef Morgan can pull it off.

When you make risotto at home, use a large heavy bottom pan as the rice will triple in volume during cooking and the rice is far less likely to stick to or worse yet, burn on a heavy bottom pan. Chef Morgan recommends you avoid skillets because the large surface area will cause too much evaporation. The entire process should take about 20 minutes or so.

Chef Morgan is not Italian but he should be.

His risotto philosophy is that of an Italian born and trained chef. He believes that some of the best Italian recipes – and that certainly include risotto – are the simplest, using top-quality,

seasonal ingredients in complementary combinations. The flavors of herbs, vegetables, mushrooms and cheese are allowed to ‘sing out’ balanced against the rich, creamy texture of the rice. As a result, these simple dishes are, in fact, utterly delicious.

At la Cascata they also offer a risotto of the day. This allows Chef Morgan to play with whatever he wants. In a restaurant where guests come to eat Morgan’s cuisine, they look forward to what he creates. In the spring his favourite risotto is asparagus, in the summer it’s sweet pea, in the fall it’s squash and in the winter, mushroom. In between you’ll find the risotto of the day taking on the activities of the kitchen. If his team of chefs is cleaning fish that day, it could be a seafood risotto, if they’re roasting beef bones, it could be a Milanese risotto. Whatever it is, you won’t want to miss it.

Risotto can be served as a main course, a first course and like at la Cascata, an accompaniment, providing a delightful contrast in flavor and texture to meat or fish based

dishes. If you are planning to serve risotto as a main course at home, you can safely assume that one cup of Alborio rice will feed four.

If you’re serving it as a first course (smaller portions) or an accompaniment to the meal, it will stretch to serving six. Risotto, after all, is very filling.

I asked Chef Morgan how I could get my risotto as lusciously dreamy as his and he says, “it’s all about the butter.” When the risotto is on the verge of perfection, he stresses, “you will need to learn to ‘feel’ when it is exactly al dente”. That’s when he stirs in some fresh, creamy butter to luxuriate throughout the rice – and it does. Next he finely grates a large wedge of Parmegiano Reggiano over the top of the steaming heap of gorgeous risotto. One last stir and he lays a large spoonful on a clean plate in front of me.

I don’t hesitate digging into the soft mass of leek risotto. It’s spreads across my palate with warmth while the leeks tickle my sweet senses. The soft texture gives way to the dense firmness of the rice itself and the flavors play on earthy, almost nutty, dreaminess. It’s surprisingly light for a dish that’s so creamy and filling: it’s glorious!

Risotto, like soufflés should not be kept waiting while your guests come to the table.

Once the butter and grated Parmesan have been melted in, the risotto should be served.

There is a window of perfection before it cools and it’s creaminess turns to stickiness – yuck.

Risotto is for those who love sophisticated and luxurious dishes but more than that, it’s for those who appreciate the extra special ingredient that should never be overlooked – the tender loving attention of the chef. la Cascata is located inside Seneca Niagara Resort & Casino TM

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leading on

By Jill Tham

offBriantheGiontaice: hat was your dream? Was it to be an astronaut, a marine biologist, or a rock star? Experts say there is a less than 5% chance of competing at a high level of professional hockey. Therefore, it must be even more difficult to become an NHL player respected for their skills and character both on and off the ice.

When the Buffalo Sabres' captain Brian Gionta was growing up in Western New York, he was inspired by NHL players like Wayne Gretzky and the Buffalo Sabres own, Pat Lafontaine. “I watched a lot of hockey growing up. I connected with guys more my size and style of play,” he says. His parents enrolled him and his brothers in athletics to keep them busy during the long winters. “They

put us in skating and then hockey and it evolved from there,” states Gionta.

Gionta was drafted in 1998 out of Boston College to play for the New Jersey Devils. In 2001, he joined the team where he remained through a Stanley Cup win until 2009.

During this time, Gionta showcased his offensive talent on right wing and in 2006, he scored 40 goals in a season an accomplishment that had not been reached by a Devils’ player since 2001. That year, Gionta also competed for the United States Men’s National Ice Hockey Team in Turin, Italy. In 2009, he played for the Montreal Canadiens and in 2010, he was appointed captain. Gionta joined the Buffalo Sabres in 2014 and was quickly named the team captain. >>

lifestyle & culture todaymagazine.ca 37

“

“Brian consistently exhibits all of the qualities you look for in a great leader,” said Buffalo Sabres head coach Dan Bylsma. “He does a tremendous job off the ice, but the thing that makes him an effective captain is his ability to lead by example on the ice.”

Gionta keeps his composure when handling the stress associated with his role. “As an athlete your job is constantly on the line; it’s something you deal with on a day to day basis.

You are always a few mistakes away from it being taken away from you. How you handle yourself relieves the pressure. Go in everyday and work your hardest and things will take care of themselves,” he says.

“For a good team, you have to have a straw boss,” states Steve Ludzik, former NHL player and coach, sports broadcaster, columnist, and bestselling author. The term straw boss, tied to the field of construction, refers to the assistant to the foreman who supervises the work of others in addition to his own duties. “As a coach you are only in the locker room for fifteen minutes. When the coach leaves, the straw boss holds the words of the coach, gives the game plan, and makes the team accountable. That’s why you bring in a guy like Gionta,” says Ludzik. “He’s a calm influence on the new guys and he knows how to win a Stanley Cup.” Although Gionta admits he has had his fair share of fierce competitors such as Alexander Ovechkin and Zdeno Charaoveskin, he doesn’t have any specific rivals and relishes the chance to play his former team the Montreal Canadiens. “I also look forward to playing against my brother, Stephen, who is left wing for the New Jersey Devils. It is always marked on the calendar,” he says.

“Gionta is a small man playing in a big man’s game and he has survived an era where players could grab you. He is a survivor,” claims Ludzik.

The neutral zone trap is a defensive strategy used in ice hockey to prevent an opposing team from proceeding through the neutral zone. The strategy is generally used to force turnovers and ultimately win Stanley Cups.

“Being a young guy playing in New Jersey we were known to be a defensive team who waited until the other team made mistakes and then we jumped on it,” reminisces Gionta.

“He played the trap better than anyone in hockey at his time,” states Ludzik. “I remember coaching against him when he was playing for New Jersey and I was coaching Tampa Bay,” recalls Ludzik. He has three speeds: fast, faster, and see ya later,” laughs Ludzik.

“As a coach who coached against him, when you see his name on the roster you worry. He brings a lot to the dance; he doesn’t come empty handed,” says Ludzik.

Gionta looks upon the new season with a renewed sense of vigour. “The goal going into any season is to make it into the playoffs,” he

says. “Obviously coming to Buffalo, I knew what was expected of me. Last year was a struggle and we see the direction the team is going in now, especially with the new players.”

Off the ice, Gionta and his wife, Harvest, are active supporters of a variety of children’s based organizations and charities including Carly’s Club for Kids Cancer Research in Western New York. “For the last seven years, in every city we have been in, we have provided an opportunity for underprivileged or disadvantaged kids to attend NHL games,” explains Gionta. “We work with the local hospitals to facilitate that. We want people to get to enjoy a night out, forget about things for a while, and put a smile on their faces.”

“He is a good player and he is even a better man with what he puts back into the community and he doesn’t ask for the spotlight to be put on him,” states Ludzik. “He is a player that has an identity. What you see is what you get and I like players like that.”

Gionta is a true family man who enjoys taking his son to hockey practise and his daughter to horseback riding lessons. “I love being on the flip side of the sport and going to watch my kids play and seeing them smile,” says Gionta. When Gionta is at the arena watching his son, he takes a hands off approach. “After my son’s games, I let him do the talking and wait for him to ask me questions and then I answer him. He knows I have credibility in that respect,” laughs Gionta. “I just make sure he is having fun.”

Similar to other working families, Gionta struggles with occasional parental guilt. “It’s hard. Between travelling and playing games, I end up missing a lot. When I’m home and off for the summer, I try to make up for that,” says Gionta.

Although Gionta grew up watching hockey legends, at home, his parents were his true heroes. “My father owned a small mom and pop hardware store which taught my brothers and me the value of hard work. We saw what they did to provide for us,” states Gionta. “My mom was a dental hygienist. She put in a full day and then shuffled my brothers and me to sports. Now that I have my own kids, I try to instill those lessons in them."

Gionta feels privileged to make a living playing a sport he loves. “I am very fortunate to be able to go to the rink every day and do what I love to do,” says Gionta. “I have no idea what I would be doing if I wasn’t a hockey player. I have never had to face that reality."

When it comes to Brian Gionta, whether you ask a coach, a fan, or a former NHL player, the verdict is all the same. Gionta is a dynamic, hardworking player who hasn’t lost touch with the core family values he was brought up with. Sabres fans and the community of Western New York are proud to call this superstar one of their own. For more information visit sabres.nhl.com TM

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The magic of the

little

black DRESS

By Mariana Bockarova

In the opening scene of Breakfast at Tiffany's, with the overlay of an instrumental hum of “Moon River� playing softly, we are introduced to a grey Manhattan, likely just past the break of dawn. The busy streets still silenced from the night before, a lone yellow taxicab pulls up in front of an imposing building, like all those on Fifth Avenue. Out comes a woman, a very particular one. There she is, Audrey Hepburn, in an astonishing black dress. As she peers into the Tiffany & Co. window, she takes a bite of her donut, a sip of her coffee, and the rest is history: Here is born the Little Black Dress. >>

todaymagazine.ca 41

The history and the meanings of the little black dress - a term so popular it seems to have entered and never left the cultural lexicon - has been shaped and evolved time and time again. A black dress, as one might appropriately surmise, was first used for mourning - a meaning it still holds today. According to Sonia A. Bedikian, in the late eighteenth century, across England and France, for upper society, a set of complex rules was created for mourners. It was expected that mourners who had lost a loved one take part in a physical ritualization of sorts, through displaying their grief by wearing heavy black clothing and black crepe veils, caps and bonnets. In order to display their grief, widowers often wore the ensemble for up to four years after a death, and any removal prior to the fouryear mark was seen as incredibly disrespectful. According to Bedikian, "formal mourning culminated during the reign of Queen Victoria. Her prolonged grief over the death of her husband, Prince Albert, had much to do with the practice. During the succeeding Edwardian rule, the fashions began to be more functional and less restrictive, but the dress protocol for men and women, including that for the period of mourning, was still rigidly adhered to."

Photo courtesy of fashiongonerogue.com

This practice of mourning changed, however, with the first of the World Wars, where a devastating amount of women became widowed. Nevertheless, because of the circumstances of the wars, they were still required to work.

Wearing heavy attire, particularly a veil, seemed not only impractical but burdensome and dangerous for the otherwise "masculine workplace" which included factory work and transporting coal. Thus marked the end of lavish mourning, and the first disruption of significance for the black dress. Widowers now chose simple dresses that were modest and, of course, black. Jewelry, if worn at all, was kept simple, but certain traditions, though relaxed, still remained: Widows' caps, a black hat with a peak at the front, continued to be worn, while a black veil was fashioned only to frame the face instead of completely cover it, and necklines were often cut in a v-neck, exposing the chest. As Bedikian notes, "during the following decades, gradually the rules were relaxed further and it became acceptable for both sexes to dress in dark colors for up to a year after a death in the family."

But how could a colour and a dress that was used for centuries to signify mourning, be changed into a signifier of scandal in merely a few decades? While black still very well may signify death, it might just be those very associations with death that prove the shade so provocative.

For instance, black is often the colour associated with evil, and many rituals which are culturally pervasive see evil as often associated with death, or the rising of the dead. Thus, in social spaces where black would be specifically culturally noted as a shade of interest mostly associated with either death or evil and the occult, wearing such a meaningful shade without any of the meaning habitually associated with it, such as a bereaved love one, would suggest that the wearer of that dress is marked. While she may not be evil, she is certainly different, certainly bold, and certainly an individual un-fearing of the scornful eye of society. This is perhaps what gives the little black dress such allure. As noted by Nancy MacDonell Smith in her book, The Classic Ten: The True Story of the Little Black Dress and Nine Other Fashion Favourites, "Black implies you have something to hide, such as a colorful past. It's a provocative color, one few people are indifferent to...Wearing black implies transgression. Anna Karenina wore black to the ball at which Vronsky became smitten with her; her niece, Kitty, herself in love with Vronsky, wore pale pink - and failed utterly to get his attention. When a woman puts on a black dress, the world assumes she's sophisticated, sexual, and knowing."

“ When a woman puts on a black dress, the world assumes she’s sophisticated, sexual, and knowing.”

Fashion designer Coco Chanel can be credited for creating the little black dress for popular wear, beyond the sole scope of mourning: In the mid 1920's, "Chanel's Ford", a short black dress, was published in Vogue. The name of it was so, as the dress was expected to become a uniform of sorts, since the dress was simple, elegant, and available for all women regardless of their social class. In the book Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life, Justine Picardine notes, “the little black dress was not formally identified as the shape of the future until 1926, when American Vogue published a drawing of a Chanel design... It was an apparently simple yet elegant sheath, in black crêpe de Chine, with long, narrow sleeves, worn with a string of white pearls; and Vogue proved to be correct in the prediction that it would become a uniform…” The great depression, which followed in the 1930s, allowed for the little black dress to continue its popularity. It was simple and

cheap solution to looking elegant yet demure in a time of deep financial worry.

At this time, Hollywood made great gains and often used black attire, which helped avoid distorted colouring in films that had started using Technicolor. As such, many actresses took the idea of wearing black outside of only film and are often credited for the popularization of the shade. For instance, actress Joan Bennett was one of the earliest actresses to pose in black, wearing a flapper ensemble that characterized the time period. The following decade, as women returned to the workforce during the time of World War II, black dresses continued to be worn, only now, as businesswear.

The end of the Second World War, however, again would mark a shift in the meaning of the black dress. With celebrations of a Nazi defeat, bright colors and whites became incredibly fashionable, and thus the meaning of

black as tied to either death or evil re-emerged.

Hollywood used this shift in meaning, interestingly enough, to re-characterize its femme fatales as women in black halter-dresses, contrasted greatly with the wholesome protagonist, usually wearing white.

Only in the 1960s, where the brilliant pairing of an actress known for her demure, wholesome, conservative appeal with a daring black Givenchy dress would the re-popularization of the little black dress be catalyzed.

Wearing such a shade in one of the most popular films at the time was meaning again shifted in favour for the little black dress as popular and appropriate attire.

Since that time, little black dresses have become a staple item, on nearly every runway, regardless of the season. Though they usually adopt the style du jour, our own little black dresses make their way inside our closets, for days in which we wish to, ironically, shine. TM

todaymagazine.ca 43

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estern New York is a great place to get outside during the wintertime. Sure, it’s cold, but bundle up, grab a cup of hot chocolate, and start reveling in the wintertime! (It only comes once a year after all). >> todaymagazine.ca 45

TUBING

Just down the street from the Holiday Valley ski area is the Holiday Valley Tubing Company. The tubing area has 12 different lanes and a towrope to get you up the hill. During open hours at Holiday Valley, there is a free shuttle service that runs to and from the tubing area. Winter time hours are Thursday and Friday from 4:30 to 9pm, Saturdays 11am to 9pm and Sundays from 11am to 6pm. Make sure to dress warm and dress in appropriate snow clothing (no cotton). Prices vary depending on how long you want to slide for. More info at holidayvalley.com /explore-our-mountain / other-winter-activities-tubing Kissing Bridge also has a tubing park, and it is actually Western New York’s largest downhill tubing park. This tubing park is not suitable for children under the age of 7.

CROSS COUNTRY SKIING/SNOWSHOEING

If you are not up for the fast speeds of downhill skiing, why not try cross-country? It’s definitely a great workout and when you are in Western New York, it will be scenic as well. The Allegany State Park is full of different trails that can be used for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing or when the weather gets warmer, hiking. The park has 18 trails that span over 20 miles, most of which are used year round. Stop by the visitor center and grab a map so you can see an outline of all the trails and how to access them. A good reference is also enchantedmountains.com. Holiday Valley also offers cross-country course area.

To get to the hills on top, you need to buy a two ride cross-country ticket.

If you are closer to Buffalo, don’t fear, there are still tons of options for great cross country skiing, check out Akron Falls, Chestnut Ridge Park, Como Lake, Ellicott Creek, Elma Meadows, Emery Park or Sprague Brook.

They are all free to access and are generally open from morning until dusk.

SKATING

Even in the wintertime, the newly revitalized canalside in Buffalo has tons of stuff going on. In addition to a huge skating rink, they offer curling, pond hockey and broomball leagues. Ice skate rental is available for only $4, and admission to the rink is $6 for those over 13 and $4 for ages 6 to 12. There are also ice bikes available for rent (a fun combo of ice skating and bike riding) at a cost of $10 per half an hour. The Harborcenter in downtown Buffalo offers public skating every Sunday evening, if you like the idea of staying inside while you skate.

DOWNHILL SKIING/snowboarding

Located in Glenwood, New York (just about half an hour outside of Buffalo), Kissing Bridge is a great place to head for a day of skiing.

Kissing Bridge is home to numerous runs, a couple of terrain parks, and is suitable for all levels of skiers. More information is available at kbski.com. Both day and night skiing is available. If you don’t have your own equipment, Kissing Bridge has a rental shop on site.

There are a couple other options for great downhill skiing and they are only about a ten-minute drive from the Seneca Allegany Resort and Casino.

Holiday Valley is a large ski resort located in Ellicottville, and has 58 day slopes and 37 night trails. Both day and night skiing are

available. There are slopes for all levels of skiers, as well as instructional classes for all ages. Rates vary on weekdays and weekends, and passes can be purchased for different time increments (4 hrs, 8 hrs, night, weekend) There are 13 chair lifts, and several lodges with food and drink options. Ski rentals are available right at Holiday Valley if you don’t have your own equipment. More information at holidayvalley.com Holimont is also located in Ellicottville and is North America’s largest private resort offering 52 runs and 8 lifts. During the week, non-members are allowed, and rentals are available on location.

More information at holimont.com. TM

todaymagazine.ca 47

become un-done

{

the beauty trend this winter? less and mess. Deconstructed hair and makeup are as edgy as they are feminine.

Messy ballerina top knots, dark smudgy eyeliners, flushed cheeks and pony tails with masculine leather bands are all the rage. But the key to mastering these looks all lies in striking the perfect combination; creating a look that is classic but edgy, sleek but messy, girlish but hard.

You won’t be running to Sephora for a new palette or curling wand – these styles require minimal effort, minimal tools and can easily transition you from work to play with little to no effort required. >>

BY GABRIELLE TIEMAN

Glossy Bed Head: No matter the season, relaxed waves seem to be here to stay. But this season, remove the beach and add a touch of gloss to the look.

The Trick: Let your hair do its thing! Air dry, relax with a diffuser, sleep on it while damp – anything to master that messy, straight but wavy, I just rolled out of bed hair. Touch it up with a light finishing product to add shine but leave it as natural as possible.

This is a great style for winter hair that gets shoved under a toque and is left a touch on the greasy side.

Colour Combinations: Bronde, Copper, Latte and the Return of Highlights The Trick: Changing colours shouldn’t be left just for the trees each season! This winter, colour hybrids are taking centre stage.

Add dimension to your hair with a full head of highlights in varying shades to your natural colour. Blend light blonde with creamy brunette tones for a buttery version of what is becoming best known as Bronde. Prefer to stay on the blonde side? Ask for a Latte shade. Hosting red undertones? Copper may be your perfect combination. Take any of these shades to your salon for a winter overhaul on your hair.

hair

Return of the Low Pony: This season’s pony tail is sleek and low– with very little muss or fuss.

The Trick: The classic pony tail gets a modern makeover with leather accents replacing the cheerleaders favourite neon coloured band.

Rake back your hair and secure with a clear elastic at the base of your neck then choose your accessory – whether it be a frayed matte band, rope style or adorned with metallic, leather will give your pony tail that touch of edge to make it pop.

Chic Top Knot Meets Messy Sock Bun: Look effortlessly refined and edgy by adding a little volume to the overdone ballerina sock bun.

The Trick: The key is to strive for the opposite of perfection – simple right? Straighten the top layer of your hair and slick the front part of your hair back. Twist your hair into a top knot and secure with an elastic while leaving the wispy pieces, even a bit of the tail end, free to do their thing. Add volume by pulling your hair forward out of the elastic towards your forehead slightly and mist with hairspray. This is a great style if you are prone to static and fly-aways. >> todaymagazine.ca todaymagazine.ca 49 49

make up

Brick Red Lips: Goodbye matte nudes of spring, hello deep brick red lip shades for winter. We love the diversity of shades this season – burgundy, brick and merlot; go darker and lighter depending on your mood.

The Trick: Keep it matte during the day and add a little gloss to take your look into the night. This is a great trend for anyone whose skin goes a little lackluster during the winter – the colour will pop against your complexion!

Smudgy Dark Eyes: Black eyeliner has returned in all of its smudgy, dark, thick lined glory.

The Trick: Play with the look and make it your own! If you prefer a cat eye, wing your eyeliner at the ends. If you like a little drama, go a little heavier on your lower lids. Feeling adventurous? Try a fully lined eye during the day or a sparsely filled polka dot rim – the world is your black lined oyster.

Dewy Cheeks: Generally reserved for spring but making an early arrival this winter, peach and rose blushes are replacing powder contouring and your new perfect tool for balancing out strong lips and tough eyes.

The Trick: Work off of the glow the cold winter air leaves on your face – notice where your cheeks natural rose and mimic the look with fresh, glossy cream blushes.

Tips for Dealing with Cold Weather Induced

Dry Skin & Hair Ease dry skin from head to toe with these simple at home tips and tricks;

Dry, Itchy, Flaking Scalp: Whether you are battling dandruff or too much hat time has you scratching away, sooth your dry scalp by investing in a shampoo and conditioner that specializes in hydration. On one of the days where you skip the shampoo, try an at home hair mask. Masks with honey, olive oil and avocado bases [or a combination of all three] can help add nutrients and added moisture back into your scalp and hair follicles.

Cracked, Bleeding Skin: Has cold air left your hands looking years beyond their age? Though a hot shower may be all you want after a day in the snow, the extreme temperature change can wreak havoc on your skin.

Invest in a non-greasy hand cream that can stay with you day and night without leaving a residual film and lather it on as much as possible.

Another great at home remedy can be found in your fridge: milk! Add a few cups of any percentage of milk to a bath, soak your cracked hands in a bowl of milk, or even milk based creams are a great way to decrease irritation. And always remember a good pair of gloves when you venture out into the cold! TM

SAVE-A-BUCK. A CITY GUIDE IN THE PALM OF YOUR HAND.

™

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NEW YORK STATE WINERIES:

FROM the VINE From the novice to the most discerning wine connoisseur, there is something to satisfy the palate of everyone along the Niagara Wine Trail, USA. Situated between the Niagara Escarpment and Lake Ontario, a beautiful escarpment awaits. Along the trail there are various wineries, each with a diverse selection of traditional vinifera style, native, late harvest and ice wines as well as award-winning fruit wines, meads and ciders. Enjoy the historical sites, towns, delectable restaurants, farm markets and antique shops along your way while sipping fine wines the area has to offer.

BLACK WILLOW WINERY 5565 West Lake Road Burt, NY 14028 blackwillowwinery.com Black Willow Winery is a family-owned boutique winery located along the shores of Lake Ontario and the Seaway Trail. We offer a unique place where people can come to relax, reflect on the simple things in life, and enjoy wine without being intimidated or uncomfortable. We want to share our knowledge and learn along side our guests. Our goal is to provide distinctive, rich, artisan wines for wine enthusiasts, as well as those experiencing wine for the first time. With the wine drinkers always looking for something different, we strive to create a visceral wine experience offering affordable unique wine varietals best suited for our region. Our Valhalla Meadery inside the winery offers a selection of award-winning Meads (honey wine). Our gift shop features a selection of artisanal olive oils and balsamic vinegars, along with decadent chocolate pairings.

LEONARD OAKES ESTATE WINERY 10609 Ridge Road Medina, NY 14103 www.oakeswinery.com The Oakes Family has a 90 year history of ties to agriculture and the land in the northwest corner of Orleans County. In 2003 we planted our first wine grapes. From that initial planting of six acres and fourteen varieties has evolved to what is known today as Leonard Oakes Estate Winery.

Our winery is named in honor of our founder, the first of what is now four generations to farm some of the same land. The unique and fertile soils left behind by the glaciers of the last ice age combined with a climate moderated by the gentle breezes and deep waters of Lake Ontario provide us with on of the few remaining untapped viticultural resources in the world.

Leonard Oakes Estate Winery welcomes you to experience our wine and tempt your palate with award winning hand-crafted vinifera, hybrid and ice wines as well as artisanal hard ciders. Enjoy!

Lacrosse: The Creator’s Game D

ewa’e:ö’ or lacrosse is the traditional sport of the Hodinöhšyönih (People of the Longhouse), the six Iroquois nations (Seneca, Cayuga, Onondaga, Onieda, Mohawk, and Tuscarora) who inhabited the north eastern region of the current United States for thousands of years. The Hodinöhšyönih believe the game of lacrosse is a gift from the Creator and he gave it to the people for his entertainment and enjoyment. Lacrosse also has ceremonial and spiritual significance to the Hodinöhšyönih, thus the reason to always play with a “good mind.”

Lacrosse was also used in place of physical warfare between feuding nations. A brutal match consisting of hundreds of warriors, a wooden ball, and lack of padding made for a ferocious battle that could last for days and stretch across acres or even miles of land. The goal was usually between two large trees at the ends of each boundary and traditional handmade wooden sticks with leather nets were used to throw heavy softball size wooden or rock balls thru the opposing team’s goal.

The rules and penalties of the historic lacrosse game were nonexistent; the players were fierce warriors who took pride in their agility, bravery, and pride.

Onehji:h or “long ago” lacrosse was a game of honor, agility, warfare, and a way to settle disputes. The Hodinöhšyönih introduced the sport to the European settlers, and the game has evolved over centuries into an Olympic game, a college sport, a professional box and field league, and has sparked international interest. It is currently the fastest growing sport in the U.S. and is Canada’s national sport.

The Hodinöhšyönih have carried the tradition and spirit of lacrosse through generations and the future looks bright enough to carry it on for seven more.

Today, lacrosse as we know it has come a long way. In Canada and the US, there are two variations of lacrosse that are played, box lacrosse and field lacrosse.

Box lacrosse, which originates from Canada, is played in an indoor arena. The game is essentially ‘hockey without ice and with a ball instead of a puck.’ Teams consist of five players and a goalie, with the objective for each team to score the most goals by the end of the allotted time. Players are outfitted with protective padding, helmets with facemasks, and utilize sticks to wield a solid rubber ball. The primary difference between box lacrosse and it’s counterpart, is the 4’ x 4’ goal and having the rule that all players’ sticks must be between 40” – 46.”

Box lacrosse by nature is much more aggressive and it’s enclosed area lend to the game being much more fast paced as well.

Field lacrosse, which is the more popular variation, is played

outdoors and on a much larger 110 x 60 yard field. Again, the game consists of two teams, but each team has 10 players on the field at a time, one of which is the goalie. The field is not enclosed and there are designated positions and marked areas to which each position is confined. The two marketed differences in field lacrosse are that offensive players utilize 40” – 42” sticks and defensive players utilize 52” – 72” sticks. This, along with a larger 6’ x 6’ goal, make for a very different game altogether. Field lacrosse also has a less-aggressive female version that is extremely popular across the US. With a multitude of leagues ranging from children’s box lacrosse among Native Nations in New York and Canada to International field lacrosse championship tournaments featuring teams from around the world, lacrosse is growing at an exponential rate. According to data from the National Federation of State High School Associations by Buzzfeed.com, “Between 2008-09 and 2012-13 years, participation in high-school lacrosse grew 19 percent among girls (to more than 77,000 players) and 15 percent among boys (to nearly 102,000 players).”

In 2015, lacrosse “came home” as the Federation of International Lacrosse’s (FIL) World Indoor Lacrosse Championships (WILC) were hosted by the Onondaga Nation. Teams representing Australia, Canada, the Czech Republic, England, Finland, Germany, Ireland, Israel, Serbia, Switzerland, Thailand, Turkey and the United States competed along with the Iroquois Nationals, who are the only fully sovereign Indigenous team in world sports-travelling on Haudenosaunee passports and flying their own flag.

From September 18 to 27, lacrosse fans from around the world were given a warm welcome by the game’s founders and treated to a special view of the cultural and historical importance of lacrosse to Native peoples. The Seneca Nation was a major sponsor of the event and represented by Josh Becker hailing from the Allegany Territory.

Ainsley Jemison, the Executive Director of the Iroquois Nationals is also Seneca. Canada has won the gold every year and this year was no exception. However, the Iroquois Nationals, who won the silver, are the only team that gave them neck and neck competition in games that had fans on the edge of their seats. An epic multimedia opening ceremony featuring over 50 dancers and singers that highlighted the deep historic roots of the game, presentations by world renowned traditional stick maker Alf Jacques and respected Native leaders, as well as banquets of traditional Native foods, and a pavilion of Native artists and craftspeople selling their wares led FIL President Stan Cockerton to offer the highest praise for the hospitality and rich legacy of “The Creator’s Game” that was shared by the host. TM

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Mansion on Delaware Avenue

Royal Treatment Girlfriends get the

Y

ou know it’s going to be a great girlfriend getaway when your weekend starts with an eager-to-please butler jogging out to your car to unload your bags even before you’ve popped the trunk.

“James” (yes, that’s really his name) is one of a half dozen butlers on staff at the elegant 28-room Mansion on Delaware in downtown Buffalo that dates back to 1869. The butlers are happy to drive you around town, pour you a complimentary drink in the drawing room at cocktail hour — even run you a hot bath in your whirlpool tub. Their white glove treatment sets the stage for a couple of days of being spoiled rotten in Buffalo.

BY ANNE BOKMA

in BUFFALO

StAr trEAtMENt At GrOOM SErvicE The pampering continues when we head to Groom Service Beauty & Dry Bar, an upscale beauty bar on the ground floor of the elegantly restored Hotel Lafayette. Here, positive feminine energy abounds, and not just because this grand neoclassical hotel was designed in the early 1900s

by Louise Blanchard Bethune, the first American woman who worked as a professional architect.

Katie Ambrose, a New York makeup artist to the stars who recently moved back to Buffalo to open the salon, gives her clients the kind of luxurious beauty experiences usually Groom Service Beauty & Dry Bar

reserved for celebrities. My girlfriend Donna and I spend a couple of glorious hours with Katie that begins with a mini meditation session involving crystals and “angelic spray” to help balance our chakras and continues with a facial, “intuitive make-up lesson” and hair styling. A final application of feathery false eyelashes has us coquettishly batting our eyes over our lunch menus when we pop in next door to the Pan-American Grill & Brewery to fortify ourselves for an afternoon of shopping with scallop cakes and sugar beet salad.

EMPOriuMS ON ELMwOOD It’s no secret that Canadians love to power shop Buffalo’s outlet stores, but we opt to bypass the mega malls for some good old fashioned street shopping.

We spend a few hours strolling the mile-long Elmwood Avenue, checking out the eclectic range of dozens of retail offerings. We peruse furnishings made by local craftspeople at rÓ, float in the aroma of hundreds of exotic seasonings at the elaborately stocked Penzeys Spices, ooh and ahh over the unique gift selections (dragonfly salad tongs anyone?) at the charming Everything Elmwood, browse best-

sellers at talking Leaves, the city’s oldest bookstore, and try on flowing summer dresses in a range of boutiques, from Anna Grace to Blush and Second chic, an upcycle consignment shop where I pick up a vintage halter dress for a bargain basement $22. When we stop to fuel up on caffeine, even the SPot coffee shop is

Second Chic

a delight with its powder blue Victorian settee and tempting display of red velvet donuts, a local specialty that proves irresistible.

Out ON tHE tOwN Our extended shopping trip means there’s little time for dinner so once again the butlers at the Mansion accommodate us by preparing plates of pizza and fresh fruit before driving us to the opening night of the raucous musical, The Book of Mormon, at Shea’s Performing Arts center. The restored theatre, which features a full season of blockbuster Broadway musicals, boosts eight-foot tall crystal chandeliers and intricately painted ceilings in the lobby, recalling its glory days as an elaborate movie house dating from 1926.

Mansion on Delaware by KC Kratt. Groom Service and Second Chic

by Katie Ambrose. Shea’s by Jim Bush. Buffalo Proper by Lisa Lubin.

After the show, we aren’t quite ready to call it a night.

Fortunately, another theatregoer recommends a stop at Buffalo Proper, a restaurant and bar that tips its hat to the prohibition era when wealthy Buffalonians found a way to sneak a drink in defiance of the 18th amendment. Here, master barman and cocktail curator Jon Karel regales us with further theatrical Shea’s Performing Arts Center antics, displaying his frenetic energy while concocting fancifully named drinks such as Bare Knuckle Boxer, Snake Charmer and Killer Bee’s.

It’s the perfect end to a perfect day. Tomorrow, we have a couple more stops to finish our Buffalo getaway – including an afternoon outing to canalside, a beautiful new waterfront area with free events from pilates classes to classical concerts, and what will prove to be a very memorable five-course prix fixe menu with wine pairings at Martin cooks, the city’s first example of chef’s counter dining where guests look on while the chef prepares his signature dishes in an open kitchen.

But right now, as the clock hits midnight, we’re ready to head back to our fluffy beds at the Mansion.

We ring our butler who arrives in minutes. As I climb into the backseat I utter words I’ve been looking forward to saying all day: “Home, James.”

Buffalo Proper

a past future PRESERVING

PROVIDING A

THE NEW ART & CULTURE CENTER AT GANONDAGAN

Located in the small town of Victor, New York, and tucked into the hill and set east to west within the natural landscape to minimize its visual and environmental impact, the new Seneca Art & Culture Center at Ganondagan will transform the visitor experience at Ganondagan State Historic Site thanks to greater capacity and year-round capability. The Ganondagan State Historic Site is located on what once was a large 17th-century Seneca town, which was ruined by the French in 1687 in a dispute over the fur trade.

Long a personal vision of Ganondagan State Historic Site Manager G. Peter Jemison, the $15 million project was made possible with the help and support of the Friends of Ganondagan Board of Trustees Building Committee, the Seneca Nation, the Tonawanda Senecas, the Haudenosaunee, New York State, the Rock Foundation, the Thaw Charitable Trust, Ongweoweh Corporation and additional corporate and private donations. The Center allows Ganondagan to take its place as a vital educational, historical, cultural and tourist destination, spreading its message of a living culture of peace to regional, national and international visitors.

From the parking lot, visitors wind their way, “Along the Thistles Path� dotted with carved stone markers to create a sense of anticipation.

Culturally significant traditional fire and water elements on the front plaza serve as a welcoming transition for visitors, and the admissions >>

entry bisects the length of the rectangular-shaped building and features a multi-media depiction of the Seneca Ganonyok (Thanksgiving address), or “words that come before all else.” The pathway to the Bark Longhouse connects directly through the entryway.

The nearly 3,000 square feet of interactive gallery space features the permanent story of Ganondagan as well as changing exhibits conveying the story of the Seneca and Haudenosaunee people.

Fifteen exhibits with nearly 300 objects cover five centuries of artistic, archaeological, cultural and historical artifacts, including works from many contemporary Native artists. The gallery also features a major exhibit on the Iroquois Nationals Lacrosse team and a substantial 10-foot scale model of the Bark Longhouse. This is especially beneficial during the winter when that structure is closed.

With its flexible, roll-out theater seating and sprung floor, the auditorium will be used for year-round events, performances and exhibits.

Many will be programs offered by the Friends of Ganondagan such as lectures, films, concerts and multimedia events, but it will also be available for community use.

Two classrooms and an orientation theater for video experiences enable learners of all ages to have a more immersive, interactive experience. Highlighted in the orientation theater is the new, award-winning, Iroquois Creation Story, a live action/animated film collaboration among Friends of Ganondagan, Ganondagan State Historic Site, Garth Fagan Dance, Iroquois Social Dancers, Rochester Institute of Technology’s School of Film & Animation and composer Brent Michael Davids. Future plans include facilities for distance learning-including audio-visual capabilities-to expand Ganondagan’s global impact.

A catering kitchen provides the opportunity to serve food for events and expand workshop offerings to include more about food and nutrition, especially focusing on the Iroquois White Corn Project. The kitchen will also be available for community event use.

The gift shop features offerings of Seneca and Haudenosaunee artworks, jewelry, books and gifts relating to Ganondagan, as well as Iroquois White Corn Project products.

The 17,300 square foot building has a focus on sustainability, including geo-thermal technology for heating and cooling to reduce the building’s environmental impact. The building design conforms to requirements for LEED certification, which designates sustainable design, construction, operations and maintenance strategies to reduce the building’s initial and long-term environmental impact.

The Seneca Art & Culture Center will bring increased economic benefits to the area. A 50% increase in visitors beyond the current 35,000 is anticipated within three years of opening.

The design is by Francois de Menil Architects and the architect of record is DeWolff Partnership Architects. The Center was built by the Rochester-based Pike Company, the construction managers.

As their website notes, “one of our foremost missions is to share information and teach about the Haudenosaunee, not only in a historical sense, but also as the Haudenosaunee people live today. The information we share spans a wide variety of topics including culture, history, art, the natural world, food and more. We hope you enjoy as well as learn.”

The Center is open year round, Tuesday to Sunday, 9 to 5, with exhibit hours running 10 to 4:30. The Center is closed on all major holidays. The Longhouse is open May 1st to October 31st. More information is available at ganondagan.org TM

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With world-class entertainers booked week after week and top-notch gaming at every turn, this winter is looking hot at Seneca Resorts & Casinos.

Dancing With the Stars: Live! – Dance All Night Tour Seneca Niagara Events Center

Lisa Lampanelli Seneca Allegany Events Center

You’ve watched it on TV, now’s your opportunity to see all of the fancy moves and fiery emotion in person —Dancing With The Stars: Live! – Dance All Night Tour. With a bigger cast than ever before, surprise special guests and a never-before-seen 90-minute action-packed performance, this Dancing With The Stars breaks free of the ballroom and brings the live action to you! Enjoy allnew choreography that’s equal parts exciting and romantic. Witness these highly charged, impassioned performances that will leave you inspired to break into dance.

Take in a roaring night of raucous comedy with the “Lovable Queen of Mean,” Lisa Lampanelli. An equal-opportunity offender, Lisa has devoured stars and disregarded standards for decades. A regular of celebrity roasts, Howard Stern’s Sirius satellite radio shows, The Tonight Show, The Late Show, Chelsea Lately, and Good Morning America, she’s staked her claim as the crassest queen of comedy and continues to collect fans by playing off stereotypes and being anything but typical. A night of laughs with Lisa Lampanelli is sure to leave you speechless, yet with a lot to talk about.

January 2 at 5 PM & 8 PM | Tickets start at $55

January 16 at 8 PM | Tickets start at $25 >>

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here . See . do

ROCK &ROLL

Whoopi Goldberg Seneca Niagara Events Center See a performer that simply needs no introduction—Whoopi Goldberg!

A member of the extremely distinguished “EGOTs” (performers who have won an Emmy, a Grammy, an Oscar and a Tony), Whoopi has a career that’s covered countless stages, crossed genres and spanned decades only to find that she’s as relevant as ever. Starting on the standup stage, her charisma and talent soon caught the eye of producers and directors who were quick to cast her in starring roles that would introduce her to the world. Since those early days she’s racked up awards and acclaim, knocked politicians down a peg or two, busted up a crowds along the way—and, most of all, done it all her way.

January 22 at 8 PM | Tickets start at $55

Randy Houser Seneca Allegany Events Center Don’t think twice, jump in with both feet for a night of pure country with Lake, Mississippi native Randy Houser! Riding high following the success of his hit album How Country Feels, Randy’s hitting the road and building momentum for his new album. Armed with one of modern country’s most powerful voices, he brings an unbridled energy to hits such as the brand-new “We Went” along with standards “Runnin’ Outta Moonlight,” “Goodnight Kiss” and “How Country Feels.” Now’s your chance to see and hear for yourself the man that Rolling Stone Country called, “One of Country’s biggest voices.”

January 30 at 7 PM | Tickets start at $35

The Peking Acrobats Seneca Niagara Events Center It’s a bird…it’s a plane…it’s The Peking Acrobats! One of the most entertaining acrobatic shows, the 2016 30th Anniversary North American Tour Year of the Monkey Celebration makes its way to Seneca Niagara Resort & Casino for two nights of breathtaking balancing, mind-bending contortion and high-flying stunts! Seen around the globe and on popular TV shows, including Nickelodeon’s Unfabulous and Ellen’s Really Big Show, The Peking Acrobats bring ancient Chinese artistry and theatrics to the stage for a powerful live performance featuring beautiful costumes, exotic Chinese instruments and dazzling special effects.

Friday, February 12 at 8 PM and Saturday, February 13 at 9 PM | Tickets start at $20

The Fab Four Seneca Allegany Events Center Be at the front line for the second coming of the British Invasion—The Fab Four! By far the closest thing to the real thing, the Emmy Awardwinning Fab Four has made fans take a double-take for decades. With their unwavering attention to detail, striking resemblance and precise performances, they’ve treated fans to shows that raise the bar on the typical cover band. Share a night with The Fab Four and experience every era of the Beatles’ historic career like never before.

February 13 at 3 PM & 7 PM | Tickets start at $15

Tracy Morgan Seneca Niagara Events Center See Saturday Night Live legend and star of the Emmy Award-winning show 30 Rock, Tracy Morgan! A man who has always defied the odds, Tracy grew up in housing projects in Brooklyn, NY and made his way from the streets to television’s most iconic comedy show for eight seasons. After leaving Saturday Night Live he found more success starring on 30 Rock alongside fellow SNL castmember Tina Fey for seven seasons. Now returning to the stage after a near-fatal car crash, Tracy is back and better than ever!

February 26 at 8 PM | Tickets start at $45

Eli Young Band – Winter Tour 2015/2016 Seneca Allegany Events Center Warm up this winter with one of country music’s hottest tours—Eli Young Band. Since being formed in a dorm room more than a decade ago, Eli Young Band has been gathering fans and gaining momentum by climbing up the country music charts with number 1 hits such as “Crazy Girl” and “Even If It Breaks Your Heart.” They’ve found popular success, critical accolades and AMA awards along the way.

Now, it’s your chance to witness a country act that’s more than a band, they’re a brotherhood.

February 27 at 7 PM | Tickets start at $15

Live From Daryl’s House featuring Daryl Hall and John Rzeznik of the Goo Goo Dolls Seneca Niagara events center See the Webby Award-winning Live From Daryl’s House with Daryl Hall and John Rzeznik of the Goo Goo Dolls. The well-known Philadelphia soul man Daryl Hall has had a career that few can match.

As one half of the famous duo Hall & Oates he charted hit songs such as “Rich Girl,” “Kiss On My List,” and “Private Eyes.” Now he’s taken his career from the 8-track to the internet, creating the free web series Live From Daryl’s House in 2007, which quickly garnered acclaim across the music industry. Don’t miss your chance to see this internet sensation live with special guest, Buffalo born Johnny Rzeznik, former frontman of the Goo Goo Dolls!

March 25 at 8 PM & March 26 at 7 PM | Tickets start at $55

Paul Zerdin Seneca Allegany events center See one of the world’s most in demand performers, and winner of the 10th season of America’s Got Talent, Paul Zerdin! A hilarious, highly sought-after ventriloquist from London, Paul Zerdin delivers performances packed with charm and impeccable comedic timing, time and time again. Highly regarded and renowned, he’s performed for Her Majesty The Queen, taken the stage at the world famous Just For Laughs comedy festival and been seen on ITV1’s Comedy Rocks. Don’t miss what Time Out calls, “pure audience gratifying magic.”

Saturday, March 5 at 7 PM | Tickets start at $20

TM

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Western

New York

Events FAIRGROUNDS FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS Hamburg, New York | $25 per carload Running December 18-23 and 26/27

Providing some of the most beautiful holiday photo opportunities in the area, the Fairgrounds Festival of Lights invites visitors to wander through Christmas Tree Forest where nearly one hundred trees are illuminated in thousands of twinkling lights.

The centerpiece of the Festival of Lights is the North Pole Experience. This ten thousand square foot walk through adventure leads guests through the North Pole and right to Santa’s front porch. More information is available from the-fairgrounds.com/festival-lights

POINSETTIAS SHOW Buffalo & Erie County Botanical Gardens | $9 Open until January 3 Expect the Unexpected! The whole family will enjoy our snow globe of beautiful poinsettias, vibrant colors and lots of playful surprises! More information at buffalogardens.com

ICE SKATING AT CANALSIDE Canalside at Buffalo | $4 to $6 Open until March 13 Lace up your skates for The Ice at Canalside. Whether you’re on your lunch break, on a date, with family, or with friends you’ll love to take a spin on the Canals on Downtown Buffalo’s Waterfront! More info at canalsidebuffalo.com >>

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ICE SKATING AT ROTARY RINK AT FOUNTAIN PLAZA Downtown Buffalo | Free to public Open until March 13 Rotary Rink at Fountain Plaza is a free and open-to-the-public ice rink in Downtown Buffalo. Snacks and warm drinks available for purchase. Rental skates are available. More info at buffaloplace.com

BUFFALO ON TAP Downtown Buffalo Jan 15– Jan 16, from 1 to 9pm Sample over 150 releases from some of America’s best craft breweries. Plus hang out in an atmosphere filled with live music, delicious food available for purchase, and great vendors.

Admission is $35 to $55, and more information is available at americaontop.com/buffaloon-tap-festival-buffalo-ny

2 ND ANNUAL LARKINVILLE ICE FESTIVAL Larkinville, New York January 30, from 11 to 3 A neighborhood wide winter celebration takes place in Larkinville on Saturday, January 30, 11am-3pm. Enjoy an afternoon of family fun, free children’s activities, food and drink, guest speakers and much more! More info at larkinsquare.com/

ELLICOTTVILLE’S WINTER BLUES FESTIVAL 2016 Downtown Ellicottville Jan 22 – Jan 24 Ellicottville’s hot spots feature live, local, Blues acts both Friday and Saturday nights. It’s a great way to keep warm on this cold winter weekend! More info at ellicottvilleny.com/winter-blues-weekend/

HOLIDAY VALLEY’S WINTER CARNIVAL AND MARDI GRAS PARADE Ellicottville, New York Mar 12– Mar 13 A grand celebration of winter with games, contests, parades, music and food. Fun for all ages. Saturday night Mardi Gras parade in the Village of Ellicottville. Visit holidayvalley.com/ for more info. TM

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For a small group of 50 or a large group of 1000, our flexible meeting space is ideal for meetings, banquets, conventions, weddings and more.

State-of-the-art conveniences and highly trained staff are here to cater to your every need. Whether it’s a private meeting, a special occasion, or a full-sized convention, Seneca Resorts & Casinos goes above and beyond to make your gathering a top priority.

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scover Di it all in the falls

Top rated hotels, restaurants & attractions on A TRAVELER’S REVIEW

Rainforest Cafe, Niagara Falls USA “Great Service! Great Cuisine!!”

Walking into the Rainforest Cafe was a interactive experience creating fun at every table along with the food and service which did not disappoint!! Our server was engaging and knowledgeable about the menu and made sure we had everything we needed!! The food was delivered promptly and was incredibly tasty!! Will be heading back again VERY soon!! Thank you!

reviewed by JulieLeah a TripAdvisor Traveler >> Amherst, NY >> November 2015

www.VisitNiagaraFallsUSA.com Find the best attractions, dining, accommodations and adventures.