A writers’ paradise in Co Mayo

Creative Writing

A writers’ paradise in Mayo

On a return visit, Eileen Casey is once-again enthralled by the Heinrich Böll cottage, and its ongoing importance in the artistic life of Achill Island.

Achill Island: the Heinrich Böll cottage is situated at Dugort, on the northern tip.

In 2008, I was lucky enough to receive an artist’s residency on Achill Island, at the Heinrich Böll cottage, situated at Dugort, on the northern tip.

I never forgot the sheer, unrivalled beauty of the place, the sound of the Atlantic a soothing lullaby, majestic Croaghaun or Sliabh Mór mountains. Sparsely populated (2,569 in 2011), it’s a nature lover’s paradise. For those who simply cannot survive without the lure of shopping and the buzz of people, Westport is only 50 minutes away and Castlebar, about thirty minutes further on. My first visit to Achill was during autumn, a season when fuchsia bushes tumble over walls and fences. Over the years I’ve visited with family during summer months when the island’s winter sleep is woken by summer sunshine and holidaymakers. Shops, hotels, bars sightseeing tours, water sport activities; open for the season and summer Achill is very different than winter Achill.

This year, I was there again in Heinrich Böll cottage in the February month of yellow furze. The cottage, purchased by Mayo County Council from the Böll family (2003) has undergone a complete refurbishment. Helped by the German Parliament, necessary upgrades were undertaken and if the cottage was comfortable before, it’s now exceptionally accommodating. Underfloor heating, bright airy workrooms, all the mod cons in kitchen and bathroom, make staying at the horseshoe shaped cottage, pure joy. A very vibrant committee, instrumental in organising literary events, help ensure the cottage’s ongoing importance in the artistic life of the island. Over the years, the island itself inspired artists and writers such as Heinrich Böll, Graham Greene and Paul Henry. Poet John F. Deane (born on the island) is a frequent visitor. Tall cliffs, blue flag beaches, a gorgeous beach at Keem Bay and Keel (the island’s main village) make staying here very attractive. Not to mention the island’s historical narratives. A deserted village at Slievemore is a haunting memorial

Heinrich Böll first visited Ireland’s largest island (87 per cent peat bog) in 1955. Like painter Paul Henry, he fell in love with the landscape and until his death in 1985, he lived periodically in the cottage.

President Mary Robinson officially opened the cottage in 1992.

The cottage which has recently been extensively refurbished

to a sad past. Set at the foot of the south facing slope of Slievemore Mountain, it consists of almost 100 stone dwellings set either side of an old pathway. Mystery surrounds its lack of a proper name. Why was it deserted poses an unanswered question. Continuing research during an annual Archaeological Field School greatly enhances current understanding about the area. potato ridges clearly visible under the top layer of grass, provides an insight into how life was lived in former times.

Walking tours from Achill Heritage Centre include a visit to the old Bunnacurry Monastery, site of a Franciscan settlement, an important part of Achill’s ecclesiastical heritage. The site was donated by George Henry Moore of Moore Hall, County Mayo. In 1852 Reverend John McHale, Archbishop of Tuam ordered five men to go to Achill in September 1852 to convert the islanders from the Protestant religion. St Thomas’ Church of Ireland is situated just down the road from the cottage and having attended a service there, I can honestly say I felt most welcomed. Surfers come in summer from all over the world, to ride giant incoming waves. There’s a unique cultural element to Achill also. The island boasts five pipe bands. Scoil Acla summer school for music, arts and language is much looked forward to. Art galleries and gift shops provide opportunity to possess original prints, paintings pottery or sculptures. When acclaimed painter Paul Henry (born in Belfast on 11th April 1876) spent a two-week holiday on the island, its rugged nature changed his life forever. He tore up his return ticket to London and made Achill his home. Its influence on his work is clear to see in paintings such as Launching the Curragh (1910-1914) and A Donkey Carrying Seaweed (1912). The National Gallery of Ireland hosted the largest ever exhibition of Henry’s work (2003) which prompted a surge of interest in Achill.

The visitor’s book at the Heinrich Böll cottage is testimony to the many artists from all over the world who’ve stayed here. 2022 marks the thirtieth anniversary of the first residency in March, 1992. On that occasion, Heinrich’s son René performed the official opening ceremony. On August 4th of that year, the cottage was visited by President Mary Robinson. in the cottage. Letters to family back in Germany (respectfully framed and hung on the cottage walls) dated 1955 tell of his delight in the island and how it had more inhabitants than first imagined (200 or so). He wrote about island ways, how a truck with groceries came weekly and that a big loaf of bread could be purchased for the cheap price of 65 pfenning. A pound of butter was 2.20DM and a half pound of tea, 1.80DM. Heinrich mentions a difficulty with the installation of an electric stove although electric lighting worked. Böll was born into a Catholic family in Cologne in 1917 and was an independent force in post-war Germany. President of the International PEN group, he won the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1972. Although a pacifist, he was conscripted and wounded four times. In 1957 he wrote Irisches Tagebuch (Irish Journal) which was translated into English 10 years later. This journal was instrumental in bringing German visitors to Ireland, particularly Achill. After his death, his wife Annmarie and sons René and Vincent agreed to allow the cottage in the secluded village of Dugort to be used as an artist’s retreat. Funding for the residency comes from Mayo County Council and the Arts Council provide assistance in recent years. While the Böll family naturally felt sad at parting with the cottage (the site of so many happy years of family holidays), there was the recognition by them of the importance of preserving Heinrich’s legacy in creating the residency and also, a heritage site. There was also refurbishments to be done. The cottage was sold to the Achill Heinrich Böll Committee for £100,000.

Poet Paul Durcan stayed at the cottage for a month residency, during which he wrote much of his collection ‘Greetings to our friends in Brazil’. Durcan referred to the cottage as ‘an ex-soldier’s house on the side of the big mountain’. Photographs of Heinrich Böll abound in the cottage, depicting him as a beret wearing individual, the ubiquitous cigarette in hand. The residency scheme was initiated by Clodagh King (now deceased), poet John F. Deane, Jack Harte and Tom McNamara. Since then, artists from Russia, Japan, Ecuador, Switzerland, the US and Germany have come to the cottage, seeking solitude, inspiration and above all, time to write and reflect. Among the Irish participants have been writer Anne Enright, sculptor John Behan and poet Macdara Woods, who until his recent death, gave workshops that were acclaimed by all who intended. Having featured in one of his workshops myself (many years ago), I can certainly vouch for kind but steady encouragement and a nurturing, inspirational atmosphere.

Heinrich Böll’S writing room in the cottage. Photo Eamonn Lynskey

Explore the beauty of Kerry with a walking weekend at The Rose Hotel

I’ve enjoyed the privacy and comforts of the cottage immensely and would recommend application to artists and writers keen on having this private yet valuable experience. Walking to The Silver Strand nearby in early morning has been instrumental in getting creative juices flowing. Meeting no-one but sheep along the way and hearing seabirds call to each other over a restless Atlantic. Even place names on the island are conducive to poetry; Bunnacurry, Dooega, Shraheens, Belfarsad, Currane, Dooagh, Polranny, Tonregee. Pure poetry. The island boasts two writing groups and I was privileged to visit one of those groups during my stay. The Achill Writers’ Group meet on a fortnightly basis (maintained throughout the pandemic restrictions on zoom). Their headquarters is St Thomas’s Hall, a community base attached to the local Church of Ireland congregation. That said, the group is nondenominational and open to all. On the day of my visit, a warm welcome was on the agenda. These writers hadn’t seen each other for a while and their delight in human contact being resumed, was clearly evident in warm smiles and lively greetings. Coffee, tea and a plentiful supply of snacks ensured everyone was armed for the readings to come. The theme for that particular session was ‘Atlantic’ and the meeting was chaired by Martina, one of the group’s members. Each writer takes a turn to chair a meeting, a system that works really well and ensures new energies at each session.

The various approaches to this constant watery presence was very unique. Pirate adventures, voyages, trips to various parts of the island, stories from the other side of the Atlantic abounded. It was lovely to hear the merge of voices. Writers from Canada, The Netherlands, Ireland and Germany made for a truly international gathering. Atlantic. The following piece by Doubtsje Nauta is an example of an original take on a constant presence in the lives of the islanders that isn’t always benign:

(excerpt) We encountered her waters daily when living on the coast of Achill Island. Although uninvited, she came twice to visit. She crawled under the doormats and over the thresholds, shared some philosophical thoughts under the dining table, checked the contents of the kitchen cupboards, kissed the soft carpets in every room, had a peek behind the skirting and waved goodbye when the moon pulled her out. Our house was left in tears.

Applications for a residency at the Heinrich Böll cottage is accepted in September each year when details appear on The Arts Council site and Mayo County Council.

Escape, discover and explore the Kerry landscape on our annual Mount Brandon walking weekend at The Rose Hotel, Tralee this April.

Taking place over the weekend of April 22nd and 23rd, check in on Friday evening, after a delicious breakfast on Saturday morning guests will join Wild Water Adventures on a guided walk up Ireland’s 9th highest mountain, Mount Brandon. If you enjoy walking and history then you’re most certainly in for a treat.

This beautiful and challenging Mount Brandon walk offers a dramatic ascent up through the glaciated valley with its series of paternoster lakes and the sheer valley walks while experiencing the wonderful views of the Dingle Peninsula.

On your return to the hotel, hang your coats and walking gear in the hotel’s drying room before enjoying a drink in the warm and welcoming Dott’s Bar and dinner in the Park Restaurant with seasonal menus reflecting the best of Kerry from executive head chef Odran Lucey.

The Mount Brandon Walking Weekend package costs €199 per person and includes two nights’ accommodation, breakfast each morning with dinner on one evening or your choice, guided walk, packed lunch and transport to and from hotel. To book or for further information please contact The Rose Hotel, on 066 7199100 or visit www.therosehotel.com

Please help the Irish Red Cross to be there for vulnerable people in crisis here in Ireland and across the world.

This is Fidelma Kelly, an Irish Red Cross supporter, author and elderly carer. Fidelma was kind enough to leave a gift to the Irish Red Cross in her Will and wanted to share her experience with others.

“It’s an extremely important thing for every individual to make a Will. I made my first Will when I purchased my first home and have amended it twice since. The process was neither difficult nor expensive; I just booked an appointment with a solicitor and was guided by their expertise.

The Irish Red Cross are like first-responders. They do not have the time to fundraise on each and every occasion a humanitarian disaster strikes. If my legacy gift can help to mobilise immediate resources for people in terrible crisis – that is a legacy I am proud of.”

From the bottom of our hearts we thank supporters like Fidelma for putting thought into action and helping us to provide crucial humanitarian aid to people who need it most.

Legacy gifts are a remarkable choice and the Irish Red Cross is grateful to anyone who leaves a gift, large or small. Human tragedies occur. We know that we are far from a world with no conflict or disasters, natural or man-made. In Ireland, growing social isolation amongst vulnerable groups mean more people are likely to need our help. And the Irish Red Cross will always be there. That responsibility has been with us for over 70 years and it will be with us in the years to come.

Call or email Donya to avail of a Free Will-making service

The Irish Red Cross have partnered with LawOnline (www.lawonline.ie) to offer a free Will-making service. This is a simple and easy to use service which allows you to create or amend your Will for a significantly reduced price.

To receive your voucher code, or to have a confidential conversation and get answers to any questions you might have, please give our legacy lead, Donya, a call on 01 642 4649 or email her at danvari@redcross.ie

Passion, love, curiosity and hope, rarely grey

There is a part in the film “Belfast” where Ciarán Hinds, who plays Pop, says to Judi Dench’s, Granny, “When people see you’re grey, they don’t think your heart ever skipped a beat”. But of course it has. Falling in love, being disappointed by love, or having your heart broken are all human experiences we go through in life. And the older you get, the wiser your outlook and perspective on matters of the heart, tends to be.

This goes for most life experiences. But when ageism seeps in, people stop seeing that passion, love, curiosity and hope, rarely grey.

Generally speaking, music, fashion, culture and other generational experiences have always grouped us within our own age-based tribes. The last two years of living through the pandemic have possibly been more divisive to generations than anything else we have experienced. At the beginning, we shared our collective fears, hopes and our love for each other, but as it dragged on with no end in sight, we all got various degrees of lockdown fever. Divisions widened, older people were collectively seen as being vulnerable, and to be excluded from society, while younger people were seen as being selfish, and antisocial in their struggle to stay away from their friends.

As we see signs of our old normal coming back, maybe it’s now time to regroup, time to remind ourselves how vital and necessary our older and younger generations are to our society. What better way to do this than by telling our stories. When we share our stories we find out what unites us. We find connections and we find new tribes. It also reminds us of who we are, what we feel, and what we think.

When we offer support and advice, we share our stories, and we relate our experiences of resilience to each other. We can remind others that their pain is not new pain, and that it’s surmountable. In the process we find new connections. In “Do/ Story/ How to tell your story so the world listens” by Bobette Buster, it’s mentioned that in a recent ground-breaking study for children, the single best predictor of children’s emotional health and happiness is story. The more a child knows their family’s story, in other words the obstacles that were overcome in order to survive and thrive, the “stronger a child’s sense of control over [their] life, the higher [their] self-esteem’. Sharing who we are, our collective humanity connects us. It is a healing experience, and it can bring us fun and friendship.

I’m making an online video project, and am looking for older people who are willing to offer advice, support and hope to teenagers who ask for it. I’m looking for contributors to offer guidance based on their wisdom and their human experience. People of different age groups can both teach and learn from each other, and their conversations have the potential to create and develop entirely new ways of solving problems.

If you are interested in taking part, you will be filmed answering the issues posed by various teenagers, unknown to you. It’s not professional advice I’m looking for, but if you’re willing to share your gathered wisdom in the hope that it will give someone else support, I would love you to contact me at askmeproject2022@gmail.com.

Western Ways

George Keegan on what’s happening in travel, the arts, food and entertainment along the Western Seaboard

Two poetry trails worth exploring in County Galway

Locations at which poems are placed on the Galway City Trail include Salthill promenade and the Claddagh

I was quite surprised to learn there are just two dedicated poetry trails in the Republic of Ireland and both of them are located in County Galway. One can be found in Galway city and the other adjacent to the Connemara National Park. There are a number of trails in Northern Ireland.

Recently I visited the trail in the delightful village of Letterfrack right in the heart of Connemara. If you travel there along the N59 between Westport and Clifden be prepared to enjoy what must be one of the most picturesque roads on the Western Seaboard passing along the Killary Fjord. Just before reaching the village make sure to allow time for an extended stop at the quite stunning Kylemore Abbey and Gardens.

Dark history Sadly however Letterfrack was not always as you see it today. It is in fact a village with a very troubled history, starting with the Great famine, followed by the establishment of St.Joseph’s Industrial school.

The village was originally founded in 1849 by a Quaker family from England. They built a large residence and alongside it a children’s school. In 1884 the property was sold and before long became the Infamous St.Joseph’s Industrial School for boys. Almost three thousand passed through here during its 86 years of existence (1888-1974). Many of these children suffered terribly from physical and sexual abuse and general neglect. Close to 150 of the children died while attending the school. During my walk around the poetry trail I came across a graveyard where many children were laid to rest. At the top of the plot stands a monument with a cross and on the ground tiny heart shaped memorial plaques have been placed , each with a child’s name and age some as young as 12 years. These crosses were erected by past pupils of the school. Just standing there and reading the inscriptions was an extremely moving experience.

After 1974 everything took a turn for the best. Members of a local community group formed a development company named Connemara West Plc. They decided to purchase the school building and encouraged the Government to take on the farm area and some mountain lands for a National Park.

In 1984 Connemara Environmental Education & Cultural Centre (CEECC) was founded by three local school teachers. The idea was to raise environmental awareness and provide heritage education at both local and national level. The small group set about organising a number of annual festivals in the village which include the very successful ‘Sea Week’ featuring walks, art exhibitions, art classes and music events, held each October.