Creative Writing
’ s r e t i r A w ise in Mayo parad
On a return visit, Eileen Casey is once-again enthralled by the Heinrich Böll cottage, and its ongoing importance in the artistic life of Achill Island.
Achill Island: the Heinrich Böll cottage is situated at Dugort, on the northern tip.
In 2008, I was lucky enough to receive an artist’s residency on Achill Island, at the Heinrich Böll cottage, situated at Dugort, on the northern tip. I never forgot the sheer, unrivalled beauty of the place, the sound of the Atlantic a soothing lullaby, majestic Croaghaun or Sliabh Mór mountains. Sparsely populated (2,569 in 2011), it’s a nature lover’s paradise. For those who simply cannot survive without the lure of shopping and the buzz of people, Westport is only 50 minutes away and Castlebar, about thirty minutes further on. My first visit to Achill was during autumn, a season when fuchsia bushes tumble over walls and fences. Over the years I’ve visited with family during summer months when the island’s winter sleep is woken by summer sunshine and holidaymakers. Shops, hotels, bars sightseeing tours, water sport activities; open for the season and summer Achill is very different than winter Achill. This year, I was there again in Heinrich Böll cottage in the February month of yellow furze. The cottage, purchased by Mayo County Council from the Böll family (2003) has undergone a complete refurbishment. Helped by the German Parliament, necessary upgrades were undertaken and if the cottage was comfortable before, it’s now exceptionally accommodating. Underfloor heating, bright airy workrooms, all the mod cons in kitchen and bathroom, make staying at the horseshoe shaped cottage, pure joy. A very vibrant committee, instrumental in organising literary events, help ensure the cottage’s ongoing importance in the artistic life of the island. 68 Senior Times l March - April 2022 l www.seniortimes.ie
Heinrich Böll first visited Ireland’s largest island (87 per cent peat bog) in 1955. Like painter Paul Henry, he fell in love with the landscape and until his death in 1985, he lived periodically in the cottage.
Over the years, the island itself inspired artists and writers such as Heinrich Böll, Graham Greene and Paul Henry. Poet John F. Deane (born on the island) is a frequent visitor. Tall cliffs, blue flag beaches, a gorgeous beach at Keem Bay and Keel (the island’s main village) make staying here very attractive. Not to mention the island’s historical narratives. A deserted village at Slievemore is a haunting memorial
