ON MY WAY HOME - CHANGE MAGAZINE ISSUE 1

CHERRY XING ON MY WAY HOME

SAY HELLO TO CHANGE

Are you ready for change?

It is evident within both the fashion industry and mainstream media, that diversity and inclusivity are noticeably lacking. This is where CHANGE MAGAZINE was bornthe hotspot for representation and change. For our debut issue, we welcome in topics of the fashion and beauty industries that are often neglected and overlooked within the media. On Page 3, we pay homage to the pioneers of gender neutral fashion. Our Cover Story sees us talk to up-and-coming fashion designer, Cherry Xing about her latest collection inspired by utopian craftsmanship disappearing in China, on Page 13. Does your beauty bag need an inclusive refresh for the new summer season? Micro-influencer, Ria Kolf introduces us to some of her favourite, go-to products in her makeup bag.

SENNEN PRICKETT FOUNDER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF OF CHANGE MAGAZINE

Say Hello to The

Pioneers of 2010’s Gender-Neutral Fashion

As a result of the fashion industry now learning to adopt more inclusively diverse traits, gender-neutral clothing is undoubtedly on the rise. Urged with support from Millennials and Gen Z, the big fashion powerhouses, such as Stella McCartney, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, alongside Marc Jacobs, and Tommy Hilfiger are now beginning to offer genderless clothing. That’s without forgetting the independent

brands born out of the surge for gender-breaking clothing collections.

December 2020 saw British singer, Harry Styles become the first-ever solo male cover star of Vogue. This monumental issue saw Styles dressed in a baby blue lacy, tulle dress and black blazer – both by Gucci –reflecting on changing fashion norms and his career in the music industry. This photoshoot faced backlash from the public, and also a number of high-profile names including Conservative commentator Candace Owens who tweeted, “Bring back manly men” in response to the cover. Despite the progress made, breaking gender boundaries in fashion still has a long journey to go.

PHOTOS: RILEY STUDIO

On a mission to change mindsets and make conscious consumerism the norm, sustainable fashion brand Riley Studio create a wardrobe of gender-neutral staples that are kind to the planet. Putting eco-innovation, sustainability and individuality at their core, the fashion label design without gender in mind, helping to reduce waste and increase the lifespan of their garments.

Dowie continued: “Gender neutral clothing allows us to minimise our binary gender collections and reduce the production of unnecessary garments, rather focusing on timeless pieces that can be styled by people of all genders and ages.”

Set up with the aim of tackling overproduction and over consumption, the brand sources recycled materials and works with ethical partners. Founder and Creative Director, Riley Uggla said: "I wanted to build a fashion brand that changes consumer mindsets and shows you that you don’t have to sacrifice style to be sustainable, the two can be synonymous."

The current midst of the climate crisis is proving the topic is more prevalent than ever before, Riley Studio’s Co-Founder, Olivia Dowie said: "The spotlight is on the fashion industry and the relentless over-production that comes from it.”

LGBTQ+ women-founded apparel brand, TomboyX, launched in 2012 designing products for all bodies and needs, of all sizes across the gender spectrum. Founders, Fran Dunaway and Naomi Gonzalez made it their goal to craft the perfect gender-neutral boxer brief, and were flooded by overwhelming, positive responses. Since then, the brand’s expansion has seen them create a full range of underwear styles, bras, loungewear, sleepwear, activewear and swimwear – all whilst keeping a focus on inclusivity and sustainability. Offering styles in sizes XS-6XL, TomboyX also has celebrity fans including American singer, Lizzo. Dedicated to empowering the LGBTQ+ community all year-round, the underwear brand also advocates for equal representation and celebration of all people.

‘Style knows no boundaries, and neither should we.’

- Riley Studio

PHOTOS: TOMBOY X

Co-Founder, Naomi Gonzalez said: “As queer women we know what it’s like to not see ourselves represented in fashion, it’s with this lens that we founded TomboyX in 2013,” Gonzalez continued: “We believed that if we created a sustainable product that focused on fit and quality and offered a broad range of sizes, we would fill a white space that desperately needed visibility.”

However, many are concerned that gender-neutral clothing often leans towards the masculine body type, typically offering loose-fitting sweatshirts and t-shirts, and disregarding items such as dresses and skirts. One Twitter user (@maya_pharaoh) said: “My major issue has always been that “gender neutral clothing” always looks like boxy traditionally masculine clothes, which implies that masculine is neutral?”

Another user (@ItsEstaFiesta) commented “There’s no such thing as “gender neutral” pieces. It’s men’s clothing that has been deemed appropriate for women to wear.”

With innovative pioneers setting the tone for the fashion industry, it seems there’s still room to welcome in gender-neutral clothing collections offering a wider range of choice.

‘We are committing to continuous improvement in our mission of radical inclusivity using sustainable practices and transparency within our organisation for the benefit of our community, workers and customers.’

- Naomi Gonzalez, Co-Founder of TomboyX

PHOTOS: DASKA

Modest fashion refers to a style of purposeful dress where women wear less revealing clothes that align with their spiritual stance, religious beliefs or personal preferences. But the true definition of modest fashion is one that is often difficult to interpret as it represents different things in different cultures, countries and cities.

It is no secret that it can often be a struggle for women to find the perfect modest clothing pieces, from anything loose and baggy to lengthy

and oversized, in a society so openly obsessed with crop silhouettes, tight-fitting forms, low rise pants and cut out dresses. Whether religious or not, some women choose to wear modest and oversized clothing purely for aesthetic reasons, insecurities, or comfort but with this added stress of finding pieces that do not attract attention to size, shape and figure, women can find themselves having to rework items by adding extra fabrics or even covering up with layers which end up covering their outfits; something that they should never need to do. While modest pieces such as maxi dresses, oversized sweatshirts and relaxed fitted trousers can rise and fall with the current trends, this is not an option for women who have no choice about the prospect of modest dressing, particularly for Muslim women who wear hijabs and constantly struggle to embrace a sense of personal taste and expressive style whilst following their faith.

With the significant rise of influencer culture and social media fashion, there was a rejection from the wave of mainstream fashion and lack of options available to them but thankfully Muslim women have begun to speak out on social media platforms causing many popular brands to change their ways, become more inclusive and celebrate a community of modest dressers who were once

PHOTOS: DASKA

completely overlooked.

Take Nike’s modest collection for example, with their latest Victory for Swim instalment for women who often find themselves in a battle between modesty and mobility through the water. Born from a belief that women of all backgrounds, body types and abilities deserve the opportunity to feel both comfortable and confident whilst swimming, Nike produced an innovative line of swim leggings, full length costumes and mesh pocket hijabs that offer full coverage and hold the hair in place

This spans to Tommy Hilfiger’s 2020 launch of their first hijab crafted from a soft woven jacquard and gentle lurex thread available in a selection of muted neutral colourways. Sold online, in Europe and the Middle East, the hijab was the brand’s first step towards their journey of inclusive fashion which has now elevated them into 2022 for their 6th Ramadan Collection Edit entitled ‘The Oasis’. The sophisticated Spring fashion collection is home to pastel tones, maxi dress silhouettes and full-length garments that echo the tranquillity, purity, and beauty of the holy celebration; without compromising on a stylish finish.

Alongside mainstream labels making efforts towards inclusivity, we cannot forget to appreciate the independent brands such as Daska and Louella to designers Haider Ackermann and Dian Pelangi

who celebrate modesty at the heart of their innovative designs.

Whilst we appreciate the long-standing efforts of independent brands and hope there is more to come from the mainstream brands, thankfully for many women, the fashion industry is shifting towards more inclusive, modest and all-encompassing designs and replacing the negative stigmas of so-called conservative and old-fashioned style for a more inclusive community that celebrates the beauty in covering up and the comfort in dressing down.

The Power of The Purple Pound

lending fashion and function to create specialised clothing, adaptive fashion makes getting dressed easier, convenient, and pain-free for those living with disabilities. With Purple, a user-led disability organisation, estimating the spending power of disabled households at £247 billion a year in the UK, it is undeniable that adaptive clothing has a home within the fashion industry.

Founder of adaptivewear brand, Unhidden, Victoria Jenkins described a ‘lightbulb moment’ as she was diagnosed with a disability in 2016, realising the need for universal designs: “One billion people around the world need it and have been completely left out of the fashion conversation,” She added: “The UK is so far behind in terms of inclusive design, but we are growing and we are passionate.”

From silk shirts and wrap tops to dresses and the brand’s best-selling trousers (available in both seated and standing options), Jenkins states her modern adaptive designs include adaptations that “are not especially noticeable, with a host of extra considerations that make them work for everyone - disabled or not.”

stresses the issue of not being able to dress for work, interviews and social gatherings, creates further segregation: “Fashion has been a barrier to jobs, equity, and inclusion for so many and I don’t think that is defensible.”

Pathing the way for the fashion industry to adopt more adaptive clothing, Jenkins said: “We can do so much within fashion and there is no excuse for not using all these years of technical advancement for everyone’s best interest.”

Fashion Design and Development student at the London College of Fashion, Chamiah Dewey also identified a gap in the market, which led her to founding the UK’s first clothing brand for short stature people. The Hampshire-born designer stressed the alienation of short stature people from the fashion industry: “Without positive representations of them in mainstream media, the abuse, disrespect and fetishisation of them continues.” The brand Director continued by saying: “With positive representation we can create a more accepting and educated world, bridging those gaps between the

Disability equality charity in England and Wales, Scope, reported that there are 14.1 million people living with a disability in the UK. The entrepreneur

‘It is a basic human right to be able to get dressed.’

- Victoria Jenkins, Founder of Unhidden Clothing

PHOTOS: CHAMIAH DEWEY FASHION

stereotypical fashion industry that favours very slim white women, and the rest!”

Entertainment journalist and BBC Guest Editor, Myra Ali was born with rare condition, Epidermolysis Bullosa, that causes the skin to become very fragile. Ali said: “Women of colour [living with a disability] are definitely underrepresented, and in the past people have felt that we have been used as tokens.”

The London-based journalist stressed the importance of female representation within the fashion industry: “It’s important for every woman, disability or not, to see themselves represented; and for brands that actually has a positive effect because it makes them look good that they are including every single person.”

media and that’s what people want.”

Urging fashion brands to begin using models with disabilities in their campaigns, she continued: “It shouldn’t be a one-off thing that gets a lot of attention; the more we do it, the more it should stop being in the

Black visually impaired disabilities activist, Abi James-Miller feels that the current industry framework is oppressive rather than promoting individuality: “It’d be great to feel more recognized, while the fashion industry is aiming for inclusivity in a lot of areas, they forget or woefully ignore the biggest minority — disabled people.” Also working as Campaigns Officer at The Disability Union, James-Miller regularly feels forced to pick between being Black or being disabled: “As a now proud black disabled woman working in the media industry, in terms of the diversity narrative in the fashion, beauty and media industry, I have struggled feeling empowered in terms of both of my identities and finding representation that encompass my ‘whole identity’.”

‘If you associate disability with fashion, the only result is positive because a disabled model will be amongst other models doing exactly the same thing.’

- Myra Ali, Entertainment Journalist

Founder of Ran By Nature, an athleisure brand advocating for human rights, Bryna Chrismas is creating circularity both sustainably and inclusively. She said: “True inclusivity means including diverse underrepresented groups from the design, development and testing of the product, and then making sure these profits go back to the groups that need it most.”

Adaptive fashion designer, Kat Paylor-Bent, founded Seated Sewing to offer a bespoke service to the disabled community after struggling to shop, due to the lack of adaptive collections on the high street. The CEO said: “They [brands] need to consult with the community and ask us what we want, don't assume you know after flicking through some medical literature, we are as individual as you and want choice!” The Durham-based inclusive

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seamstress urged for more representation of those living with disabilities: “I want to see more disabled designers recruited by big brands, more adaptive fashion on the runway and onto the high street, more disabled models used across all forms of media.”

Scope’s campaigns work to create a fairer society, change attitudes, and end injustice. The charity’s Media Manager, Warren Kirwan said the fashion industry is slowly waking up to the fact that those living with a disability want to buy and wear fashionable clothes: “It’s great when brands create adaptable clothing ranges that actively tap into the disabled consumer market.”

Moving forward, Kirwan emphasises the desire to see more brands take a lead and challenge attitudes towards disability by making fashion accessible: “This will ultimately give designers, manufacturers and retailers the opportunity to enjoy a slice of this Purple Pound.”

In order for a change of society’s perception of disabilities to occur, Jenkins affirms it goes as far back to education, with universities teaching inclusive designs and brands hiring disabled consultants, so they can include the entire breadth of disability. She said: “Hiring disabled models as a standard is step one for sure - they can’t do it once and then never again, we have seen how badly that plays out with other marginalised groups.”

ON MY WAY

The Up-and-Coming

Capturing

PHOTOGRAPHER:

YASMIN BERROW

PRODUCER: EMILY

GREEN

MAKEUP ARTIST: RITA

SANDHAR

DESIGNER: CHERRY

XING

MODELS: ANIJIN

ROBERTS, ANSON

LAW

Craftsmanship

WAY HOME

Up-and-Coming

Inspired by a spontaneous 2021 trip to Guizhou, a remote village in the south of China, up-and-coming fashion designer Cherry Xing has crafted her organic utopian “On My Way Home” collection.

The 24 year old lived with the village’s GE family, an ethnic group yet to be recognised by the government and with roots dating back to the Tang dynasty (from 618 to 907 AD), for 15 days. Here, the designer gathered inspiration for her latest collection, one based on the Utopia of craftsmanship disappearing, she said: “I quickly fell for their traditional costumes, organic craftsmanship, fairytale history stories, and the genuine smile on their faces.”

Using eco-friendly and sustainable scrap fabrics sourced from the village, the garments are dyed using indigo plants and then hand-painted with beeswax. The collection sees three key items – a cap sleeved maxi dress, long sleeve top (both sporting a structured high neck) and relaxed fit midi skirt. The Birmingham-based designer said: “I wish this collection puts their crafts, culture, and story on a larger global scale for more people to see,” She continued: “In the hope this will bring them more opportunities and increase tourism to generate more incomes for the villagers - so no one has to leave their home anymore.”

Open to interpretations of her serene collection, Xing aims to leave viewers feeling inspired and wanting to learn more about the story behind her designs. Creating a collection with cultural meanings came naturally to the fashion creative, she said: “I love stories and people in them, culture is often the perfect way for me to share those which touched my soul.”

Reminiscing on her childhood home being filled with fashion and lifestyle magazines, cultural books and poetry, Xing’s inspiration to begin her journey as a fashion designer was rooted in her mother’s deep love for fashion. She said: “I would spend a whole sunny afternoon flipping through magazines when I was in middle school and feeling very inspired, so naturally, when I decided what to study, fashion is coming to me.”

‘I want their stories to be heard, and the kindness and love I felt whilst living with them, to be expressed through clothes.’

- Cherry Xing, Fashion Designer

PHOTOGRAPHER:

YASMIN BERROW

PRODUCER: EMILY GREEN

MAKEUP ARTIST: RITA

SANDHAR

DESIGNER: CHERRY XING

MODELS: ANIJIN

ROBERTS, ANSON

PHOTOGRAPHER: YASMIN BERROW

PRODUCER: EMILY GREEN

MAKEUP ARTIST: RITA SANDHAR

DESIGNER: CHERRY

XING

MODELS: ANIJIN

ROBERTS, ANSON LAW

PHOTOGRAPHER: YASMIN BERROW

PRODUCER: EMILY GREEN

MAKEUP ARTIST: RITA SANDHAR

DESIGNER: CHERRY

XING

MODELS: ANIJIN

ROBERTS, ANSON LAW

Advocating for the fashion industry to be more sustainably considerate towards garment workers, Xing stresses how they are the lowest paid in the supply chain and the importance of designers choosing the companies they work with: “If you are independent and own a relatively smaller brand, designers need to take responsibility and educate themselves.”

Michelle Wetherall, Fashion Design Lecturer at Birmingham City University, branded the “On My Way Home” collection as uniquely authentic, due to its strong and beautiful connections to Xing’s Chinese heritage and sustainable aspects. Wetherall said: “Her experience with the villagers not only influenced the research of her collection, but also made her consider the environmental impact.” The result? Upcycled unwanted knitwear to create a line of brand new items. The lecturer continued: “Her passion for sustainability is refreshing as she is

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determined to create a collection with no environmental impact, often having to work harder to source fabrics and knitwear to upcycle and re use.”

Moving forward, the designer doesn’t think too much about the future and instead, lives in the moment; however, Xing insists: “I do know I don’t want to go into the industry and kill the planet.” She adds: “Fashion will still be a huge part of my life, it is a way for me to continue expressing my thoughts and feelings, maybe I will release one or two collections per year online causally.”

‘The fashion industry is a well known polluter and it is inspiring to see young designers like Cherry making positive changes’

- Michelle Wetherall, Fashion Design Lecturer at Birmingham City University

PHOTOGRAPHER: YASMIN BERROW

PRODUCER: EMILY GREEN

MAKEUP ARTIST: RITA SANDHAR

DESIGNER: CHERRY XING

MODELS: ANIJIN ROBERTS, ANSON LAW

The Fashion Industry Needs To Be More Size Inclusive ...And Fast

Recent years have seen a vast increase in the fashion industry’s size inclusivity, from the launch of innovative curve-loving Kardashian brands, SKIMS and Good American to notable collaborations such as, Universal Standard’s 2019 collaboration with sportswear giants, adidas, offering pieces in sizes up to 4XL.

From Gen Z to Baby Boomers, inclusive clothing sizes has been a significant purchasing drive across all generations. In 2021 alone, highstreet retailers Reiss, Nobody’s Child, Simply Be and Anthropologie all expanded their clothing ranges to

include larger sizes. This year, WGSN outlined that the plus-size industry is in a state of flux, as new brands emerge, and long-standing stores launch new lines to meet the demands of the customer.

However, undoubtably many fast fashion brands are the current reigning champions of size inclusivity, due to the vast amount of clothing items they produce and their competitively low prices. Business of Apps reported that Chinese e-commerce retailer, Shein adds 2,000 products to their site a day, however others have suggested this number is nearer 6,000.

One Twitter user (@koronkowy)

PHOTOS: THE HOUR LONDON

said: “Shein delivers. And it sucks. Plus size people want to make better choices but show me brands

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that are actively hitting the mark, as far as size inclusivity, in comparison to a fast fashion company.”

After changing dress sizes and facing the struggle to find the same quality, well-cut clothes that she used to wear, Nana Rasoeva created THE HOUR – a luxury, size-inclusive womenswear brand dedicated to crafting contemporary pieces that drape, frame and flatter the fuller figure.

Starting out as an Ob Gyn doctor in Tbilisi, Georgia, Rasoeva said she found a gap in the market for luxury plus size clothing after noticing pieces to be “uninspiring, often shapeless and made of cheap polyester.”

Creating clothes that are empowering and lend confidence in sizes 12-28, the London-based designer describes how her brand uses versatile, high-quality materials and contemporary styling to chime with every woman’s fashion need. Whether you’re running errands or heading to a summer garden party, the brand’s pieces work to coordinate and blend seamlessly

with your already existing wardrobe.

Rasoeva explains how THE HOUR aims to balances proportions and shapes the waist to accentuate the sweeping arc of the female form. The founder said: “The voices of the curvy women are finally being noticed in the fashion industry, however, the majority of women are still underserved and not heard as consumers.”

Despite more brands extending their size ranges

‘I believe that style is about expressing yourself and making sure you look and feel great regardless of size or age.’

- Nana Rasoeva, Founder and Creative Director of THE HOUR

and offering plus size styles, Rasoeva stresses how many still get the sizing and fit wrong: “It’s not just about grading up the existing patterns from a straight size,” she adds, “Brands need to invest in skilled patternmakers, multiple fittings to ensure a great fit, tweak the grading rules to ensure that fit is consistent regardless of the size and use high-quality fabrics.”

Mintel’s 2021 UK Clothing Retailing Report suggests there is a trend for greater size inclusivity, with fashion retailers in the mid-market to premium brands expanding their size offering from petite to plus-sizes. However, brands will need to produce a wide range of sizes within their core collections, rather than labelling them as separate specialist ranges, to avoid

alienating customers.

Best known for her trendy and bold fashion statements, wardrobe stylist Beverly Osemwenkhae (aka BeverlyO) believes fashion and great style should be accessible and available to everyone: “We should all be in a place where finding high quality fashion-forward pieces in an array of sizes should be available in boutiques and high-end department stores.”

Founding ProjectBee Consulting, an image and wardrobe service that works with charities such as Bottomless Closet and Project HEAL, Beverly said: “It really falls into the hands of designers to bring that to the forefront and we’re starting to see more of that on the runway.

PHOTO: @DEESOOPRETTY

PHOTOS: RAGDOLL PR

The NYC creative praises brands such as Ganni, Kai Collective, Good American, Mara Hoffman, and Reformation for bringing inclusivity to the heart of their brands. Also highlighting Roksanda and Erdem, Osemwenkhae said: “It's refreshing to see top, luxury brands including larger sizing in their collections, it's a start in the right direction.”

Luxury fashion and beauty influencer, Victoria Barbara places the focus on the importance of diverse representation and how it provides comfortability for all women. Prompted by the statement ‘fashion is not one size fits all’, the US based model said: “It’s beautiful to see variety and expression, it helps keep fashion fun and exciting.”

CEO of Sip and Shoot, a networking photography event to showcase body positivity and self-love, Dee Thomas stresses how clothing has been limited to a 3XL in major fashion brands for many years: “It is time to stop excluding those that wear bigger sizes, something as simple as finding nice clothes should not be such a difficult task when you are plus size.”

Following the motto of ‘every body

is a model body’, the 31 year old model explains that plus size women often feel they have to lose weight to become a model, she said: “Brands are trying to beautify inclusivity, they attempt to add plus size models, but very carefully to make sure that it remains beautiful in the eyes of society.” Supporting the common consensus that fashion brands need to increase their size ranges, Thomas said: “I am waiting for the company that takes risks and shows all forms of plus sizes; the apron bellies, the loose skin, the cellulite.”

With the help of body-positivity influencers and a (small but sure) increase in the visibility of all body shapes and sizes in global fashion campaigns, the representation of size inclusivity within fashion is on the rise. But ultimately, the accurate portrayal and recognition of our society lies within the hands of fashion brands to utilise their resources, because they can do better.

‘The fashion industry sets the tone of what’s in at the moment, and it’s up to us to make sure that’s being represented.’

- Beverly Osemwenkhae, Wardrobe Stylist

‘More brands are also hiring more plus size brand ambassadors, but is it really fair to use all shapes and sizes for sales but not for representation on the website?’

- Dee Thomas, Plus size model and Founder of Sip and Shoot

The Sustainable Fashion Show Using Items From Your Wardrobe

PHOTOS: JOHN PATTERSON / @AURELIEFONTAN.DESIGNS

hether you’re hot on sustainability, or perhaps interested in learning more on how to do your bit for the planet, upcoming project ‘The Reunitise Tour’, is showcasing small businesses that are making a positive sustainable impact. Physically demonstrating the products that we can be using today to make the world a better and cleaner place. I was given the opportunity to speak to Founder and CEO of the project, John Patterson, about his innovative idea and how the project will roll out.

After hearing waste charity, Wrap’s findings that 350,000 tonnes of clothing are dumped in landfill every year in the UK, during a conference call, Patterson decided it was time that he did something about it.

With a coinciding sustainable fashion show scheduled for July 2022, the CEO said: “We have created a sustainable fashion show that will not only highlight the problem, but also rally to collect the weight of the bus in old clothes to be recycled.”

Beginning his morning at 6am, with an important gym session to help his mental health, and entering the office by 7:30am; the founder’s current day-to-day life consists of planning, he explains: “Such as getting funding, updating the website, making social media posts, and preparing the bus for the tour.”

Working alongside Birmingham City University’s new STEAMhouse, a unique centre dedicated to providing a space for collaboration, innovation and the development of new start-ups and ventures, this project aims to put Birmingham on the map for fashion

that makes a difference. Also collaborating with Parisian designer, Aurélie Fontan, on MYKKÖ, a regenerative and planet positive leather alternative made with mushrooms, Patterson said: “You can expect to see a very cool collection with items made from recycled clothes, Mushroom plastic and more.”

Reflecting on the partnership between Osmose Studio and The Reunitise Project, the Parisian-born designer said: "Osmose Studio is thrilled to be part of the Reunitise project. Solving our material and energy crisis is imperative, and one-of-a-kind projects such as Reunitise are absolutely crucial to promote a sense of corporate collaboration between innovators, designers and thinkers, so we can join forces to make our industries better and more sustainable."

Working to showcase to the UK how versatile the country can be in terms of innovation and solutions, Fontan added: “Through donating our mycelium-based products, including mushroom leather (Mykko) and making a fully circular fashion collection, we hope to excite and inspire the UK public.”

‘I want to make the world a nicer place to live, to support people and businesses that really do care, and bring people together in the process.’

- John Patterson, Founder and CEO of Reunitise

- Fareeha Jay, Registered Dietitian

Registered dietitian, Fareeha Jay stressed the need for retailers to step up and make changes, but subsequently we need to do our part too. Opting for less fruit and vegetable packaging wherever possible, Jay said: ‘Only buy recyclable packaging, stop buying sliced fruit, start buying more loose fruit and veg; we must plan our shopping and buy whole fruit and vegetables then cut and slice them ourselves.’

If you would like to take part in The Reunitise Tour, John Patterson welcomes you to turn up at any cities they are visiting, spread the word of the project and email hello@reunitise. com with pictures of places that are doing good things already.

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Following the sustainable fashion show in July, the bus will begin its tour of the UK, first stopping at The Eden Project in Cornwall. The bus will then continue being used as a showcase to help explain what ways we can combine our actions to make big improvements – and eventually becoming totally self-sufficient! But a frequent question many of us have when it comes to sustainability is, how can I do my bit to help? Well, Patterson advises to start by asking questions, like do I need to throw this away or can I upgrade it? How much water am I using? Or perhaps start buying items from those who share the same values as you, for example shops that sell fruit and vegetables without plastic.

‘The planet is facing a plastic crisis and it requires urgent action.’

PHOTOS: JOHN PATTERSON /

Beauty Bag Browse

Ria Kolf

Content creator, Ria Kolf (AKA @reekolf) started posting her extravagantly eye-catching makeup looks on Instagram in 2018. Based in The Netherlands, Kolf uses colour, a clean-cut background, and a sharp camera lens to showcase her artistic talent. Promoting the unedited realism of our complexions, the beauty enthusiast also creates ‘Get Ready With Me’ style videos for her followers, giving a step by step tutorial on how to achieve her glam looks - and of course, the products she uses. Gaining nearly five thousand followers for her impressive skills online, Kolf also works as a full time pharmacist. CHANGE Magazine sits down with Ria Kolf as she shares her favourite skincare and beauty products that make the perfect base!

Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream £28.50

TheOrdinaryHyaluronic Acid £6.40

AnastasiaBeverlyHills Luminous Foundation (Shade540W) £38

AnastasiaBeverlyHills LooseSettingPowder (ShadeBanana) £38

AnastasiaBeverlyHills MagicTouchConcealer (Shade21) £29

AnastasiaBeverlyHills MagicTouchConcealer (Shade23) £29

PHOTO: @REEKOLF INSTAGRAM

The Beauty Industry Is *Finally* Adopting Inclusive Shade Ranges, But It Certainly Isn't Over Yet

017 was a change-making year as we saw the iconic launch of Rihanna's cosmetics brand, Fenty Beauty, disrupt the beauty game with 40 shades (which is now 50 by the way!) of her Pro Filt'r Soft Matte Longwear Foundation. 5 years on, and with the beauty industry more inclusively diverse than ever before, we take a look at its progressive journey. But with that being said, there are still improvements that need to be made.

Global beauty players such as Charlotte Tilbury, Mac, Urban Decay and Estee Lauder, are acing the game of inclusivity by each providing 40+ shade ranges; with heritage, high street brands, The Body Shop, Clinique and Lancome also having widened their product offerings in a spectrum of shades. Similarly, innovators, Il Makiage are known (and loved) for their accurate shade matching quiz, helping customers to effectively purchase their correct shade online. The late 2010s was a movement of expanding beauty lines so that everyone can enjoy them.

We spoke to 5 experts from the beauty industry to discuss their thoughts on the evolution of inclusive beauty, their favourite go-to products and what they think needs to happen next.

Founder of WOW Beauty and The D.O.R Edit, Denise Rabor works to create an online destination for inclusive, ethical, independent and female-led skincare brands. The London-based entrepreneur describes how there has been some progress within the product diversity of the beauty industry, however, the issue is multifaceted and calls for increased diversity amongst the decisionmakers to reflect the world we live in: "The industry is about consumers and their experiences, but it’s also about those that work in it - from beauty schools to the PRs to corporate decision-makers."

‘ The same energy that has gone into gender diversity needs to go into creating a diverse and inclusive beauty industry at all levels.

- Denise Rabor, Founder of WOW Beauty and The D.O.R Edit

PHOTO: DENISE RABOR

Pushed into action by the 'Fenty effect', the beauty world has seen many brands up their shade range over the last few years, but others such as NARS and Mac having always championed a diverse collection of choice. Rabor adds: "There is a lot more choice as more brands are coming to market, and existing brands are expanding their offerings so that darker shades are not just an afterthought amongst a sea of beige." The beauty expert applauds brands such as Bobbi Brown, Pat McGrath Labs, Mac, and Estée Lauder, as some of the more diverse brands on the market.

Beauty, Fashion and Lifestyle

Digital Creator, Sebina Hussain notes having seen the way brands and organisations are actively working on learning and becoming more inclusive. But there is still a lot of work to do, Hussain said: “When we are exposed to diversity on such a huge scale, it makes us question whether our own workplaces, industries and lives are as diverse and accepting as they should be.”

Growing up within the South Asian community, Hussain also noted her love for Mac, Bobbi Brown and NARS’ broad shade offerings, she said: “In 2022, if as a brand you are offering anything less than 30-40 shades for a new launch, it is nothing to be proud of.” To continue making diverse improvements, Hussain believes brands need to begin working more collaboratively within the communities they are marketing to, she added: “This can no longer be a tick box exercise or just tapping into a cultural moment for the commerciality of it all, in order to truly become more diverse and inclusive, brands have to create opportunities for open, honest conversations.”

‘

Providing vast shade options should be the norm.

- Sebina Hussain, Beauty Content Creator

‘It’s crazy to think that diversity is only just widespread talking

- Wizz Selvey, Founder WIZZ&CO

PHOTO: @SEBINAAH INSTAGRAM

PHOTO: @SEBINAAH INSTAGRAM

Media Makeup and Hair Artist, Bryanna Angel Ryder has welcomed progress with the diversity and inclusion within the industry, but insists there's still room for improvement and consistency: "Inclusion is not about ticking boxes, it needs to be consistent and the focus should remain on long term change - it isn't change if it's temporary."

As an artist, Ryder has “noticed over the past couple of years an amazing change in the shades and undertones of beauty products,” Gravitating to products depending on their colour range and coverage, Ryder’s personal favourite brands including Beauty Blender, Ilia Beauty and Illamsqua. Moving forward, the artist said: “Advertising needs to be consistent and relatable, people shouldn’t have to look at advertising and only see a polished version of beautiful, we need to see real and relatable, so we don’t compare ourselves.”

Stressing the importance of brands putting their customer at the heart of their communication, marketing and imagery, Founder and CEO of expert brand strategist company WIZZ&CO, Wizz Selvey said: "If a customer looks at a brand and doesn't seem themself, or their problem reflected, they're much less likely to buy and become an advocate for that brand." Selvey added: "I feel it's an issue that has gone unspoken for years, and now people are really putting pressure on brands to think about it in every aspect of their business."

Leading specialists in artificial intelligence and augmented reality for beauty and fashion, Perfect Corp, are pushing to transform the consumer shopping experience, making struggles such as picking your shade online much easier. CEO Alice Chang described the overdue shift to embrace a multi-dimensional approach that speaks to the unique needs and preferences of the customer, she said: “Augmented Reality (AR) and Artificial Intelligence (AI) virtual try-on technologies, which enable brands to connect with individual consumers and deliver more personalised beauty recommendations, encourage personal discovery and diversity throughout the industry.”

Chang explains advanced AI technology can help accurately detect the complete range of 89,000 individual skin tones, guiding customers through a personalised experience to find their unique identity, and purchase the best matching shade for them.

that inclusivity and just becoming a talking point in beauty.’

Founder and CEO of WIZZ&CO

PHOTO: BRYANNA RYDER

Inclusive Beauty Brands To Shop

The Body Shop Fresh Nude Foundation – £18

Fenty Beauty Pro Filt’r Soft Matte Longwear Foundation – £30

Il Makiage Woke Up Like This Foundation – £36

NYX Can’t Stop Won’t Stop Foundation – £15

Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Foundation – £36

Estée Lauder Double Wear Foundation – £35

Danessa Myricks Vision Cream Cover Foundation –£26

Hourglass Vanish Seamless Finish Liquid Foundation – £34

Barry M Fresh Face Concealer – £4.99

The Business Of Fashion’s ‘Belonging: The Business Case for Diversity in Fashion’

Watch as Business of Fashion’s contributing editor, Imran Amed, meets with some of the fashion industry’s biggest innovators calling for more diversity. Chatting to Harper Bazaar Editor-in-Chief, Samira Nasr in Paris, Amed learns about her successful experience in an industry that systematically excludes people of colour. Before he travels to London to meet with fashion leaders, Sinéad Burke, June Sarpong and Jamie Gill, to get an insight on how they see the doors of luxury fashion opening.

Watch, Read, Listen MAY 22

Shaun King’s ‘Make Change: How to Fight Injustice, Dismantle Systemic Oppression, and Own Our Future’

Change: An Opportunity Rather Than A Fear TED

Talk by Stella Bida

Listen as entrepreneur and best-selling author, Stella Bida discusses the importance of change and transformation as the ultimate conditions for people’s growth. The disruptor of the norms and typical shares her three strategies that will allow you to shape your desired success through change, whilst also acknowledging the fears and impossibilities created by society.

Read a New York Times Bestseller, as activist and journalist, Sean King reflects back on the events that made him one of the current, most prominent social justice leaders and roadmaps a clear action plan for you to join the fight. A leader of the Black Lives Matter movement, King shares the shaping moments in his life, considering ways social movements can grow, whilst highlighting how to stay sane, safe, and motivated even in the worst of political climates.

Read something inspirational? Listened to something that changed your outlook on life? Got a musthave watch for our readers?

We’d love to hear your recommendations over on our Instagram!

Career Change Chats

With Jessica Purdie, Founder and Creative Director of Prikli Pear

Q1: Where are you located?

I’m originally from the Scottish Highlands, but I’ve lived in England for 7 years now.

Q2: How did Prikli Pear come about?

When I left university, I fell into PR. After years of working in fashion and music PR, I felt the rat race was a bit fake at times. There’s a class divide feeling if you’re not wearing the next best thing, and it’s not right. We need to value any designer, and we have to remember that clothing is art. So, I realised I needed to create a brand that does what I want to achieve – a traceable, authentic, completely transparent company that shows where the fibres are from, who made my clothes and how long it took to make them.

Q3: What made you change careers?

I felt I had a 360, in my head I was working towards being independent and having enough skills to set up to go off on my own at some point, but I felt like I could never fit with the fashion industry as it stands. But from a very young age, I’ve always wanted my own brand.

Q4: What is the inspiration behind Prikli Pear?

My farming upbringing has had a real impact in everything I do, I want to source as local as possible. My inspiration always lies within colour, the bigger, the brighter, the bolder, the better. I’m quite tongue in cheek myself, with my personality, and my brand is totally me. Prikli Pear shows my best bits and my worst bits, that’s what I want to come across, we can’t be perfect all the time.

Q5: What materials are your products made out of?

Being a start-up business, my products at the moment, aren’t all sourced from the fibres that I would like them to be. Most of the products are sourced from deadstock fabrics or local shops nearby, but eventually I’d like to be able to say who my supplier is and what sheep or farm the fabric came from.

Q6: What are your goals for Prikli Pear?

My goal is to be totally traceable and transparent when sourcing every single fibre, it’s the hardest goal for Prikli Pear but it’s a part of my values. I have recently set up a female creative networking group called ‘Stitch & Bitch’, and the aim is to bring likeminded women from the community together, to be able to share ideas and make friends. I would like that networking group to become nationwide eventually.

‘I wanted to speak some truth, as the fashion industry can often be quite false.’

Q7: Have you faced any challenges setting up your own business?

The financial challenge is the biggest one for me. Having lived in London paying my way through rent, I didn’t really have a lot to start up with. I have been trying to do this alongside work for so long and it just didn’t work. Trying to come out of a fulltime manager role and set up on my own, I had to move out of London and move in with my mum. That’s given me financial relief in a way, and by not living in such an expensive area helped me massively. My main challenges are money and time, there’s not enough time in the day.

Q8: Have you got anything exciting coming up?

I’ve got some festival wear coming out this month. We also have more accessory pieces and smaller pieces for people to buy at creative markets - homeware, cushions, stickers for your laptop, keyrings, charms. We also have summer dresses in development at the moment!

Q9: What advice would you have to someone wanting to set up their own fashion business?

You don’t know unless you do it, if you keep telling yourself you’re not ready then you never will be ready. Keep going and always believe in the path that you have in your head. If it feels right, then it will be right.

PHOTOS: JESSICA PURDIE

BY SENNEN PRICKETT