Service

The Voice of Irelandʼs Food & Drink Industry

Powered by

neveR Have an eMPTy SeaT again With the MenuPages easy-to-use booking system

The Voice of Irelandʼs Food & Drink Industry

MeeT Mona SaMadi Owner of Anar, Ireland’s only Powered by fine dining Persian restaurant cHeF PRoFile Mike Ryan from The Cornstore Cork MaRTina Fox oF BRidge BaR & BiSTRo Tells us her favourite things

MASTER

OF OUR

UNIVERSE The RAI’s Chief Executive gives us the lowdown on the current state of the industry

2

Service April 2013

in thiS iSSue Page 2 – 5

agenda – What’s happened & what’s happening in the industry

Page 6

cHeF PRoFile – Mike Ryan – Executive chef and co-owner of The Cornstore Cork

irelAnd Sign Food wASte Agreement through the production of energy, compost and digestate’, to ensure that food waste is diverted from landfill.

Page 8 – 9 THe Main couRSe – We talk to the industry’s most important voice, Adrian Cummins, Chief executive of RAI

Page 10

adveRTiSing wiTH a diFFeRence – A profile on the advertising art form, Rabbit Hole Promotions

Page 11

My FavouRiTe THingS – Martina Fox, owner of Bridge Bar & Bistro

Page 12 – 13 How To uSe THe MenuPageS Booking SySTeM – ‘Show your staff’ wall chart

Page 14 –15

THe STaRT oF SoMeTHing BeauTiFul – Ciara Warnock profiles Stoneybatter

Page 16 – 17

ReSTauRanT PRoFile – Meredith Hicks profiles Ireland’s only Persian restaurant, Mona Samadi of Anar

Page 20-21

THe coFFee conundRuM – To use or not to use coffee capsules?

That is the question…

contActS ediToR Des Doyle / editorial@menupages.ie 01 240 5528 deSign Jillian Redmond / 01 240 5528 conTRiBuToRS Meredith Hicks Ciara Warnock Deirdre Fogarty Alan Brady PHoTogRaPHeR Ruth Medjber Studio 62 – info@studio62photography.com MenuPageS QueRieS jilly@menupages.ie / 01 240 5590

Leading Suppliers

According to Ireland’s Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), organics comprise about 23 per cent (by weight) of the gross household bin waste stream, and a total of 860,000 tonnes of ‘biodegradable waste’ was sent to landfill in 2010.

Page 18

cockTail & wine oF MonTH – For drinks ideas look no further!

Page 22

JoBS/on THe Block – All the latest properties and job openings

Minister for the Environment Community and Local Government Phil Hogan

I

reland’s Minister for the Environment, Community and Local Government, Phil Hogan, signed a new Household Food Waste Regulations, which make throwing food waste into the residual waste stream illegal.

The European Union (Household Food Waste and Bio-Waste) Regulations 2013 were brought in to ‘promote the segregation and recovery of household food waste’ and ‘increase the amount of food waste that is recovered

lA cucinA oF limerick SuperQuinn venture T

Published monthly, Service! is distributed free of charge to the key decision makers in every restaurant on the MenuPages database. A further 450< senior decision makers in suppliers to the hospitality sector, as well as other related parties, are also on the distribution list.

All material copyright 2012. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior consent of the Publisher.

Opinions and comments herein are not necessarily those of the Publisher. Whilst every effort has been made to ensure that all information contained in this publication is factual and correct at time of going to press, MenuPages cannot be held responsible for any inadvertent errors or omissions contained herein.

MenuPages, The courtyard, carmenhall Road, Sandyford industrial estate, dublin 18, ireland.

It is now hoped that the regulations will fulfil the European Commission’s Landfill Directive by ‘directing source-segregated household food waste to composting and to other forms of treatment’ and fulfil the requirements of the revised Waste Framework Directive. Under the Landfill Directive, member states can only send up to 35 per cent of biodegradable waste (calculated on the basis of the total amount of biowaste produced in 1995) to landfill by 16 July 2016.

he husband and wife owners of award winning La Cucina restaurant in Limerick are marketing fresh pasta sauces.

The Real Italian Foodies range comes in tomato and basil, tomato and chilli, creamy tomato and bolognese flavors. Their new range is on sale in Superquinn stores nationwide.

Bruno Coppola and Lorraine Fanneran of La Cucina

Service April 2013

3

AGENDA

5 million watch Catherine Fulvio promoting Irish food on US TV show

U2 revive €150m Clarence Hotel refurbishment plans “Those concerns remain true today,” the IGS’s Donough Cahill told The Sunday Times.

“The Clarence as a whole is of architectural interest, and to demolish the greater part of it apart from the facade is losing sight of why the building is of importance,” he added.

Although accounts for the hotel show that it has significant losses, its profits increased ten-fold to €113,787 last year.

Catherine Fulvio

Bono and The Edge to refocus their attention on their ambitious project

A

B

n estimated 5 million people across the United States tuned in to see Irish chef Catherine Fulvio on The Today Show, the daily morning television show on NBC. Tourism Ireland in New York arranged for Fulvio to appear on the programme to celebrate St Patrick’s Day and to highlight world-class food from Ireland.

During her time in New York, Fulvio also prepared lunch for some of the top culinary and food journalists in New York, at an event organised by Tourism Ireland in conjunction with Kerrygold.

Tourism Ireland also sponsored Clodagh McKenna’s TV series, which aired on PBS (the Public Broadcasting Service) across the US. Other ‘ambassador’ chefs from Ireland who were in the US over the St Patrick’s Day period included Neven Maguire (who appeared on home shopping channel QVC), Rachel Allen, Kevin Dundon, Derry Clarke, Noel McMeel (of Lough Erne Resort in Co Fermanagh) and Ian Orr (of Brown’s restaurant in Derry).

“Catherine and the other chefs who were in the US over the St Patrick’s period are fantastic ambassadors for the island of Ireland and our world-class food,” said Joe Byrne, Tourism Ireland’s executive vice president for the US and Canada. “Food is a vital component of the tourism experience and increasingly Ireland is becoming known for its cuisine, with a reputation for high quality, natural products used in both traditional and innovative dishes. The quality of our food is one of the key themes being promoted by Tourism Ireland in the US this year.”

Leading Suppliers

ONO and The Edge have revived their plans to carry out a €150m revamp of Dublin’s upmarket Clarence Hotel. The highly ambitious project was shelved in 2009 as a result of the recession, but it is now back on the table.

It has emerged that the U2 pair, along with developer Paddy McKillen, have sought fresh planning permission for the art-deco establishment. Documents filed this month with Dublin City Council requests an “extension of duration of planning permission” to build a “new and enlarged Clarence Hotel” by July 2018. The €150m overhaul would see the Temple Bar hotel significantly enlarged and includes a flying saucer-like rooftop bar known as a “skycatcher”. The project, which is designed by renowned British architect Norman Foster, will also include a new restaurant, lounge and 141 guest bedrooms.

The scale of the work will be extensive as the redevelopment involves gutting a series of protected buildings, including the Clarence itself, leaving just the

facades. Speaking during an oral hearing on the proposals in 2008, the Edge, said the group were determined to maintain the property as a hotel.

“If it (the revamp) goes ahead, it will be the ninth different version of a hotel on that site. We want to keep the infrastructure in the city – we don’t want it to turn into apartments. We don’t want it to be lost,” he said.

However, the project is still facing opposition from locals and conservational groups. The Irish Georgian Society (IGS), which lodged an objection to the project in 2007, said it feared the plans would damage the integrity of the city quay.

“At the time we had two concerns.

The Clarence Hotel is recognised in the Register of Protected Structures, and for its architectural interest. The scale of demolition proposed could have compromised the integrity and character of the building.”

The second reason was that the structure would have a big impact on the character of the quays.

The Clarence is facing renewed competition along the Liffey’s quays from the newly reopened Morrison Hotel, which was relaunched last month after a successful €7 million refurbishment.

M

Artst impresson of the new Clarence Hotel

The Clarence Hotel as it currently stands

4

Service April 2013

AgendA

juryS inn neArS reScue deAl A

rescue of Jurys Inn, the hotel chain with seven properties in Ireland s expected to be complete in April. The Company will receive a €187m cash injection and see nearly two thirds of its borrowings wiped out under the a debt-for-equity swap led by its main lender, Royal Bank of Scotland.

Derek Quinlan took over Jurys Inn in 2007

Jurys Inn has been struggling under about £600m of borrowings since been taken over in 2007 by Derek Quinlan, the former tax official turned financier. RBS took control, of the business several years ago. Investors backing the deal Mount Kellett, an American hedge fund, Majid Mangalji, who owns us hotels and Oman’s sovereign wealth fund.

The new investment will be used to update some of Jury’s 31 properties in the UK & Ireland.

kFc to creAte 1,600 jobS AcroSS the uk And irelAnd F The expansion comes at the same time as a £40 million refurbishment plan for its existing 160 restaurants.

The company says it wants to create a “more modern, welcoming environment” for diners.

New developments include a clickand-collect app, equipment to keep food fresh for longer and cookers that use less oil. There are also plans to introduce new ‘lighter options’ and high-quality coffee.

Leading Suppliers

ore than a quarter of the restaurants listed in the latest edition of a leading Irish guide are new entrants.

restaurant, The Pig’s Ear, The Chop House, The Greenhouse, Paris Bakery and San Lorenzo’s, all located in central Dublin.

The “100 Best Restaurants” guide for 2013, by John and Sally McKenna, comes at an increasingly difficult time for eateries in Ireland.

Mayo also saw a number of its restaurants added to the list, including An Port Mor in Westport and Rua and Café Rua in Castlebar.

McKenna says that being business savvy is increasingly important for Chefs, with the ability to teach, demo, forage, use social media and speak publicly all helping restaurants stand out.

The annual list of the 10 hot chefs included Cormac Rowe from Mount Juliet in Co Kilkenny, Caitlin Ruth from Deasy’s in Clonakilty, Co Cork, Alan Foley from The Step House Hotel in Borris, Co Carlow and Kevin Aherne from Sage in Co Cork.

Restaurants included on the list were Fade Street Social

John and Sally McKenna

Jurys Inn Galway

ast food outlet KFC plans to open 40 new outlets across the UK and Ireland this year, creating 1,600 jobs.

100 beSt reStAurAntS Announced For 2013 M

“By opening new sites, improving the customer experience, introducing new technology and investing in our people, we’re confident that we will be wellplaced to continue our upward trajectory,” said Martin Shuker, Managing Director, KFC UK & Ireland.

celebrity cheF pAul rAnkin, blAmed the continuing union FlAg proteStS he told The Irish Independent recently.

Chef Paul Rankin is determined to open a new restaurant

C

elebrity chef Paul Rankin, blamed the continuing Union flag protests for his decision to close his flagship restaurant, Cayenne.

“Location is key in the restaurant business, particularly at a time of economic downturn, and our current setting is no longer sustainable. The disturbances around the flag protest, particularly during the Christmas period, also confirmed our decision,”

“”The once ‘golden mile’ of Belfast has suffered badly from a lack of regeneration and a general decline in popularity and appearance, even the Ulster Bank with its gable end statues across from us is to close shortly,” he added.

Paul Rankin is one of Northern Ireland’s best known cooks. He won the country’s first Michelin star when he and his Canadian wife, Jeanne, opened the fine-dining Roscoff Brasserie during the height of the Troubles in 1989.

Cayenne later replaced Roscoff at the same location on Shaftesbury Square.

The decision to close Cayenne has resulted in the loss of 18 full and part-time jobs, however Paul Rankin has insisted he will re-open a new restaurant.

“Cooking is my ultimate passion and I am committed to establishing a new kitchen inspired by both Cayenne and Roscoff before it. There has already been some high level talks taking place about other exciting business and restaurant opportunities but I am open to identifying as many different options as possible so it really is too early to confirm any details as yet.”

The Rankin brand selection of foods will continue to be sold in selected supermarkets.

Service April 2013

5

AGENDA

Tolteca & Southern Fried Chicken to create 95 jobs opening of two new restaurants.Tolteca first opened on Baggot Street in 2011, said its new Suffolk Street outlet, which opened last month, had already created 25 jobs. It also announced plans for a third Dublin restaurant, to open within six months at an unspecified location, creating a further 20 jobs.

entrepreneurial as Stephen has bought into our brand.”

Southern Fried Chicken currently has over 600 stores across 30 countries

“I had a dream to bring the Tolteca model home to Ireland for some time,” founder and chairman Tony Comaskey said. “And now with our Baggot Street operations running so well, we have just opened our restaurant on Suffolk Street and plan to open more in the near future,” he said.

Baggot St branch of Tolteca

T

wo restaurant chains have announced plans to expand their Irish operations with the creation of 95 new jobs.

Mexican eatery Tolteca is to create 45 jobs in Dublin with the

Another fast-food chain Southern Fried Chicken opened its first Irish outlet in Dame Street in Dublin today. The consortium, which secured the Irish franchise for the chain, said it planned to open a further three restaurants in Dublin and elsewhere over the next 12 months, creating 50 new jobs.

Andrew Withers, managing director of Southern Fried Chicken, said: “We are delighted that someone as ambitious and

The Santa Rita/ LIFE Magazine Irish Restaurant Awards Receives Record Number of Nominations T he Santa Rita/ LIFE Magazine Irish Restaurant Awards 2013 has concluded its first round of voting,with nearly 10,000 nominations cast in a new record for the competition.

Regional nominations will be announced in the coming week, with County winners being announced at regional events in Connaught, Ulster, Munster and Leinster during the month of April.

Speaking on the awards, Restaurants Association of Ireland Chief Executive Adrian Cummins said that they continue to grow from strength to strength.

“Interest in the Irish Restaurant Awards has grown year on year, and as our awards are the only in Ireland to have a Mystery Judge element, we can really stand over the entire process. We are extremely lucky to once again have the strong partners in The Sunday Independent LIFE Magazine and Santa Rita on board.

The awards are a celebration in the best of Irish cuisine and recognise the hard work that restaurateurs put in all year round. Restaurateurs are entrepreneurs, and to give them something back for their contribution to the hospitality industry is important. The restaurant industry is the biggest employer within the Irish tourism sector, employing over 64,000 people. They should be proud of that, and celebrate their hard work in the coming weeks.”

Adrian Cummins, Cheif Executive of the RAI

Russia’s richest woman to expand Irish hotel portfolio Hotel and Resorts group are “definitely” seeking further hotels here, a source with knowledge of her plans has said.

“New projects depend on what is available on the market; it’s a question of attractive possibilities. But most importantly, they are definitely looking.”

Prospective buys are not confined to the Dublin market.

Elena Baturina, Morrison Hotel owner

E

lena Baturina, Russia’s richest woman and Morrison Hotel owner is actively seeking further Irish acquisitions for her €200m hotel fund.

She is watching closely as Nama preps several fourstar properties for market in the coming weeks, including the Trinity Capital, the Clarion IFSC and Clarion Airport hotels in Dublin.

The Russian construction billionaire may buy up to five hotels in the Irish market as part of plans to develop 14 four-star properties in Europe by 2015.

Ms Baturina and Austrian hotel operator Martinez

Exclusive interview with RAI Chef Executive Adrian Cummins turn to page 8 & 9.

Morrison Hotel based on the River Liffey

Leading Suppliers

Dame St branch of Southern Fried Chicken

Martinez, which runs the Morrison hotel, recently signed a deal with Hilton Worldwide to roll out the Double Tree brand in Ireland, but new Baturina hotel buys may or may not be part of this franchise, depending on what sort of acquisitions are made.

A Dublin hotel sector agent told this paper that Ms Baturina was expected to make four or five Irish acquisitions in the near term.

Ms Baturina’s Austria-based company Beneco Privatstiftung bought the Morrison for €22m last year and put €7m into renovating it, before reopening this month.

6

Service April 2013

cheF proFile

The Cornstore Cork

The cornstore cork which opened in 2007 is run by executive chef Mike Ryan. The restaurant has received a selection of accolades including the prestigious Hotel & catering Review ‘gold Medal award for casual dining’ and is nominated in this year’s irish Restaurant awards.

what’s your main ambition for the cornstore cork in 2013?

I want the Cornstore Restaurant in Cork to be the best restaurant in the city and county, while constantly looking at innovative ways of creating dishes to meet current targets while all the time maintaining our high standard.

What is your first memory of cooking?

It was when I was seven-years-old with my mother; together we made strawberry ice cream soufflé. I’m tempted to make it again!

what do you think makes a successful restaurant in the current economic climate?

By producing interesting food and having friendly and efficient staff. Customer service is a key component in our business.

How did you end up coming to ireland?

I met my wife Jane in Paris, she is from Dublin so I suppose love moved me here. I have lived here for 20 years, so I feel like it is my home now although my heart will always be French.

what is your most popular dish at the moment?

It has to be our steaks, we are currently air age drying them ourselves so the quality of the steak we serve is excellent, our duck confit leg is also another popular dish.

what’s the worst job you’ve ever had?

Most definitely it was working as a kitchen porter with my mom as the head chef!

what do look for when you’re recruiting staff?

I look for genuine people with a “can do” attitude and those who have that “flair” for

cooking which is always a huge bonus.

where do you take inspiration from for your dishes?

Everywhere really but particularly in the Cork English Market where I go each day, you can build an unusual dish from one local item sourced here, the variety is huge for in season produce and it never fails to disappoint! do you have a favourite restaurant apart from your own?

Balthazar in New York or Zuma in London are my current favourites. what chef do you most admire and why?

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall because of his use of local seasonal produce, his cookery books are so inspirational too.

@cornstore_cork

The Cornstore Cork’s executive chef Mike Ryan

Click on, step out.

For all enquiries call: 01 2405528 or email: des@indublin.ie

Leading Suppliers

8

Service April 2013

the mAin courSe

S

ince adRian cuMMinS took over as chief executive of the Restaurants association of Ireland 4 years ago the profile and popularity of the industry has grown considerably. with an extensive background in politics and hospitality this is no coincidence. in this thoughtprovoking interview with deS doyle, the industry’s most important voice gives us his opinion on the current economic landscape for irish restaurants.

Photos by Ruth Medjber

MAN ON A MISSION y

ou’ve seen a record number of nominations for this year’s irish Restaurant awards, what can we expect from the ceremony?

This year will be the biggest awards ceremony for the hospitality industry Ireland has ever seen. There will be a total of 2000 people attending this year’s awards across the country as we are having ceremonies in Cork, Galway and Belfast to celebrate the provincial winners as well as the pinnacle of the awards at the Burlington Hotel. It’s our fourth year to have the Sunday Independent’s Life Magazine as media partner and the relationship has been a huge success. We received last year’s entire target half way through this year’s nomination process.

The interest on restaurants from the public has never been higher; people like to talk about food and their experiences of eating out and our awards reflect that, its consumer driven, they nominate the restaurants which highlight the best in the country. We have industry experts to analyse the consumer’s feedback and they look at it from an Irish food produced aspect.

This year is about ‘farm to fork’ and we want to celebrate that. what effect has the horse meat scandal had on restaurants?

The scandal is really in the retail industry, people want trust and they know they can trust Irish restaurants. You can’t ask a

Leading Suppliers

check-assistant in a supermarket where does the meat come from but you can ask a chef or waiter when you’re dining out, that gives people confidence in restaurants. do you think the plans for mandatory calorie counts on restaurant menus should exist?

I think the calorie count debacle has raised more questions than answers. The questions we would like answered are; how much has been spent by the state agencies on research and implementation of the calorie count? Would this be better spent on education, teaching kids about healthy eating? The Minister for Health, James Reilly is taking the wrong approach on this, as he has yet to engage with the industry which is disappointing. Restaurant owners feel they’ve been backed into adopting a new form of practice that will cost the sector an estimated €100m. It’s going to be another financial burden on our industry and there’s still no credit coming from the banks.

The food safety authorities are developing a new software system for calorie counting, but if it doesn’t work it will be yet another plan that has cost millions to the state but eventually needs to be scrapped. It was introduced in America for restaurant chains with twenty or more units but it hasn’t made a difference; consumers are still eating the same food as they were before the count came in. The Irish government needs to change their approach because it’s distressing our industry.

The Minister for Health, James Reilly is taking the wrong approach on this, as he has yet to engage with the industry which is disappointing. it was revealed recently by the Rai that only 20% of restaurants are currently making profit, what does that say about the sector’s financial landscape?

The 4% reduction in VAT has been a life saver. This means it’s cheaper to eat out for consumers, we would like to see the VAT reduction kept in place so there can be more jobs created. The trouble is on the left side of the balance sheet, we have increasing costs in energy, local charges and potential wage hikes. Our industry is recovering inside the M50, specifically in the Dublin 2 & 4 areas. Outside the M50, it’s like a different country. In a town or village where there were four restaurants, only three remain with no sign of a new business taking over the vacant premises. There’s been a contraction in the market.

We expect to see a continuation of this decline in towns but stabilisation or possible growth across Dublin. It will ultimately depend on consumer confidence and how the public reacts to the introduction of the household charge.The best decision the

Service April 2013

9

government has made is the change of budget date to October, this allows consumers to adapt, so Christmas will be better for it. do you expect to see growth in other cities too?

Because it’s the year of The Gathering, we will see an impact on all tourist hot-spots. The bigger issue is the huge number of people on the live register; people need jobs to have a disposable income and until that number is reduced recovery will be slow.

How do you think The gathering is going so far?

It has to work and I think it will! The government has put huge amount of resources into it and it’s showing. The target is to get over 300,000 extra visitors, which will generate an extra €170m in revenue. Leo Varadkar is doing a fantastic job in my opinion; he understands the tourism industry and what it needs to recover. I believe we will learn a lot from The Gathering and it will prepare us well for 2016, Ireland’s 100th year anniversary celebrations. what can the government do in the short term to help restaurants?

They can do a plethora of different things to help. Restaurants are the highest users of energy per sector in Ireland but there’s no support from any of the energy providers or the government, this issue remains to be addressed. We’re totally supportive of alternative energy production that would reduce the cost base.

The local authority rates are a complete joke currently. We were promised four years ago that the rates would reduce but they remain the same, and now there’s stealth costs like the

Leo Varadkar is doing a fantastic job in my opinion; he understands the tourism industry and what it needs to recover.

The RAI’s memebership has grown since Cummins took charge in 2009. sunshine tax, fat oil grease trap licence and waste packaging, there seems to be a lack of forward thinking. what can be done about the current chef shortage?

We set out with a plan a year ago to create more chef training places but we’re twelve months on and this issue has yet to be properly addressed by the government. We currently have 100 chef positions that need to be filled but it’s just not possible.

Many Restaurant owners have resigned themselves to looking overseas to get quality personnel to fill their staffing needs.The hotel sector and restaurants are the biggest employers in the tourism sector with over 65,000 people. The RAI have a proposal on the table to reduce the unemployment level by implementing a strategy to encourage chefing as a career, it’s critical we’re listened to. Our industry is a highly labour intensive industry which means if we think outside the box and do this right, there’s potential to create a serious amount of jobs, How important are events like catex for this sector?

Events like Catex are critical to the well-being of the industry.

I felt suppliers and restaurant owners had a bounce in their step during the event, so if we can harness that positivity the opportunities are massive. I thought the event itself was extremely well organised and I look forward to working with them again in the future.

Cummins promises this year’s restaurant awards to be the biggest ever.

Leading Suppliers

what role do you think technology has for restaurants?

Technology is the way forward, There are now new ways to have booking inventories, streamline the ordering processes, examine financial data and recording stock control, advances in technology for restaurants help the day to day running of

businesses. There are also valuable marketing tools to enhance the profile of their business through social media and mobile apps. what’s your opinion on restaurants using deal website’s to generate revenue?

I have been vocal on this in the past and my stance hasn’t changed. I think that most deal sites are shellfish and are driven by shareholders of the companies that run them. It gives the impression that consumers can get 50% off in restaurants.

Restaurants need to know what they’re getting themselves into by using deals to stimulate revenue, it may be a short term gain but it can have a negative effect on your business if not used properly. what do you think makes a restaurant a success in today’s market?

It’s a combination of great customer service, the atmosphere created within the restaurant and most importantly the quality of the food being served. If a restaurant gets these aspects of their business correct their customers will feel they’ve had an amazing experience, got value for money and they’ll return time and time again.

Restaurants Association of Ireland, 11 Bridge Court, Citygate, St. Augustine Street, Dublin 8. phone: 01 - 677 9901

@adriancummins

10

Service April 2013

Advertising with a difference

Service takes a look at an innovative new form of outdoor advertising that can make anyone stop and take notice. concurred, “We found it very effective for our brand awareness and it stands out so much more than any other traditional advertising” He joked, “I wouldn’t recommend it to other restaurants as I want to keep it to myself!”

Four Reasons to use Rabbit Hole Promotions: 1) Marketing, advertising and promotion mediums

which genuinely appeal to customers.

2) Unrivaled competitive pricing.

3) Fresh, innovative and creative young and energetic firm.

4) We Change Boring.

Bad Ass Cafe in Temple bar have added a new dimension to their exterior

R

abbit Hole Promotions is a new innovative and creative advertising agency that looks at the city scape as their blank canvas, founded by the trio of Darragh Joyce, Derek McDonnell and Mark Lacey. This fresh advertising medium is already being used by some of Dublin’s best known restaurants with a huge degree of success. The idea, says Lacey, was conceived from surveying the damage caused by the country’s economic plight. “When the recession hit, cities were left with hundreds of derelict buildings and abandoned construction sites, they were becoming easy targets for vandals and detracting from the aesthetic of various communities, which was adding to the woes of the country and made the economic crash feel very real. RHP was born out of this problem, to renovate and revitalise these spaces by using street art as an advertising medium which results in an extremely effective way to promote various firms and as a method of brightening the our everyday environment.”

The beauty of RHP’s new advertising medium is their versatility to create a bespoke campaign for any business. According to Lacey, “The idea of our Street Advertising is the opportunity to separate yourself from the competition in a manner which actually appeals to the general public, to stand out in the area of outdoor advertising where the market has become saturated and stagnant. Companies have a split second to grab their potential customer’s attention, we make this second count. We Change Boring.”

This is one of the many reasons RHP’s Street Advertising Spaces are gaining popularity amongst restaurants. Joe Dunne, owner

Leading Suppliers

of Cactus Jack’s has been using their advertising space on Harcourt Street since the beginning of this year, he said, “They were great to deal with from start to finish. They gave great thought on the creative for our ad and made the most of the space which is located beside the Luas line. I would highly recommend any restaurant to use Rabbit Hole Promotions as they are very cost effective.”

Olesya’s Wine Bar on Exchequer St has recently updated their shutter.

A list of RHP’s Street Advertising Spaces and their products & services is available on their website. A relatively untapped area that they currently specialise in is the utilization of restaurant roller shutters. These security mechanisms have traditionally been an eye sore and prone to vandalism. RHP transform this space to a restaurant’s advantage by turning the shutters into eye catching works of art that benefits any restaurant’s brand and the surrounding community.

One of the most innovative aspects of this creative agency is their willingness in accepting new ideas from their clients.

Lacey admits,“We are open to all ideas, if a restaurant is looking for a cash injection we can potentially rent any available outdoor space they may have and we can sell advertising on it. Our agency feeds off new ideas, creativity breeds creativity, and we can produce something that will propel their brand and meet their bottom line too.” The reality is this agency can uniquely cater for any restaurant, and business for that matter, be it a local burger-joint to a fine dining establishment, this form of advertising can be sculpted to meet the needs of one and all.

Manager of The Arch Bistro in Churchtown, Patrick McCabe

Burritos & Blues on Wexford St, Dublin 2.

Service April 2013

11

My favourite things

My favourite things...

Movie

Musician/band

Martina Fox

Owner of Bridge Bar & Bistro

Movie “The Notebook”. Ryan Gosling was amazing in this movie, it’s about 8yrs old, but a great tear-jerker, romantic, chic flick.

Celebrity chef That has got to be Gordon Ramsay. He is so cheeky and entertaining, but gets the results and produces some great dishes. I like his style of cooking and presentation.

Book Anything by James Patterson, I like his style of writing, he writes short, fast chapters that you simply cannot stop reading. I would love to “get into” a good factual book, but any of them that I enjoy are about the hospitality industry, and that just doesn’t work as a relaxing read for me....

Business moment so far Signing the lease on Bridge Bar and Bistro.

Musician/band I’m loving Seal at the moment, and playing him a lot in the restaurant, Ottis Redding and Marvyn Gaye too.

TV Show “Damages”. It’s a series we found on Netflix, starring Glen Close and it is imply brilliant. I’m not a big fan of TV but I really enjoyed this.

Possession That would be my iPad I think, I would be lost without it.

Sporting moment The opening ceremony of the olympics in London last year.

Spectacular.

Artist

Method of relaxation I love nothing more than lying in a hot bubble bath, with a nice glass of wine, plenty of candles and a good book. Perfect peace.

Place to shop My favourite boutique closed down last year unfortunately, and to be honest I have not had the time, or money to find a new “favourite” boutique in which to indulge myself with.

Fashion brand I love “Dina bar el”, she designs beautiful functional dresses that are not only well made but timeless. I love a dress that can be worn in the restaurant, to a meeting or out socially, and she ticks all the boxes.

Artist I have two actually. Guggi and Patrick O’Rielly. They are both great artists of our time, and really nice people too.

I am lucky enough to have a piece of art by both these men in my restaurant.

Leading Suppliers

Dish currently on Bridge Bar & Bistro’s menu I work very closely with my head chef when producing menus, we change our menu seasonally so I only seem to be choosing a favourite dish by the time we are working on another menu. Currently my favourite starter is, Honeyed figs & Roquefort cheese, amaretto jelly, toasted walnuts. My favourite main course would be : Pan roast cod, baby potatoes, paloured clams, saffron velouté and confit leeks.

Bottle of wine I have a preference for red wine, my current favourite is “Corbieres”, the grape is grown very close to the ground in foliage typical of this region in France, so lovely aromas of lavender etc come through very subtly in the wine.

Delicious.

Restaurant (apart from your own) Would have to be , “Bellucci’s”, in Ballsbridge.

Place I’ve visited Rome. I love that city. Everything about it is just incredible.

Saying “Sorry, we are booked out !!”

Sporting moment

Never have an empty seat

with

14

Service April 2013

A guide to...

Stoneybatter

l… fu ti u ea b g in h et m o s f o rt ta s The

ciara warnock visits the dublin suburb that has the potential to make it stand out amongst the most sought after places on the capital’s north Side to own a restaurant.

I

n the past, the Stoneybatter and Manor Street area has never been known for its culinary prowess. The only restaurant that ever earned any recognition was the wellreceived ‘Ta Se Mahogany Gaspipes’ which earned itself a great reputation both north and south of the Liffey. Unfortunately, it closed a number of years ago and until recently; the area has been somewhat of a culinary wasteland. However, the past few years has seen the Stoneybatter and Manor Street locales thronged with new ventures to tempt locals and blow-in’s alike.

The options are now diverse and eclectic, showcasing some the best dining this city has to offer - this could be the start of something beautiful.

The main thoroughfare of Stoneybatter is Manor Street, a locale that dates back to the 1600’s, and the reign of Charles II.

The acclaimed L. Mulligan Grocer is one of Dublin’s leading gastro pubs

Leading Suppliers

In bygone times, Stoneybatter was known as Bothar-na-gClocht (The Road of the Stones), and was the main thoroughfare leading to the far flung western lands beyond Dublin. The area has seen its ups and downs, but if the influx of new eating establishments in difficult times is anything to go by, Stoneybatter and environs are on the rise.

fresh steamed vegetables. It all sounds good, and with moderate prices and great value early bird options, it starts to sound even better.

Heading onwards towards the city centre on Benburb Street, ‘Wuff’ Restaurant is making waves with diners and critics alike.

Friends Peter Tarrant and Ken Byrne have joined forces to offer

No 18, Stoneybatter is home to the well-known L. Mulligan Grocer, an establishment that has been popular with locals for many years.Thanks to an overhaul in 2010 and its transformation to a truly Irish Gastropub, it is now known far beyond the local area. The premise is quite simple – top quality Irish produce, sourced locally and served with an ever so slight modern twist.

Special effort has gone into pairing dishes with the vast array of Irish craft beers on offer, or indeed specially brewed Lllewelyns Cider. With their very own house whiskey due to be launched any day now, all eyes are on this stalwart of the Stoneybatter dining scene.

A hop, skip and a jump down the road to Manor Street brings us to the exceedingly popular ‘Mi Thai’. Since opening its doors in 2010, the claim to fame at Mi Thai is the resident Thai chefs that work tirelessly in the kitchen of this exotic gem.With a full bar on offer and no animal fats or MSG used in the dishes, it’s no wonder this tiny neighbourhood favourite is such a hit with the residents. Seating a modest 30 covers, the reviews have been consistently good since opening, and diners can expect to be serenaded by Jazz and Blues as they feast on house specials such as Pla Neng See Ewe, steamed seabass in a light soya sauce topped with fresh ginger, scallion and coriander served with

Soul Ful Bistro recently opened at the top of Manor St in Stoneybatter

Service April 2013 15

Seven Social on Benburb St Smithfield diners a memorable dining experience at modest prices. With rave reviews from both Catherine Cleary and Tom Doorley, expectations are high of this modest neighbourhood eatery.

With the most expensive brunch dish setting you back a meagre £8.95, it’s no wonder patrons are flocking here in their droves.

Serving brunch at the weekends and lunch and dinner during the week, Wuff is going from strength to strength, and it looks like this is just the beginning.

Across the road, ‘Seven Social’ is perhaps the most well-known of the Stoneybatter set. Inventive duo Emma Bowe and Piotr Kalkowski serve imaginative, grown up comfort food at its best.

Lucinda O’Sullivan recently called it ‘a rare gem’ – and she’s is exactly on the money. The denizens of the Law Society around the corner cannot believe their luck with the addition of Seven Social to their dining scene. From the start, Seven Social has

Seven Restaurant on Manor St been a hit for its ever evolving ‘Roast in a Roll’ at lunch, and now it seems the dinner menu is creating quite a stir. Imagine dishes such as Balbriggan Razorclams with Chilli, Garlic and Saffron Aioli, with Gremolata to start, followed by Pheasant & Wood Pigeon Curry with Indian spices and Basmati rice and you begin to get the picture. A comprehensive wine list adds to experience, with wines offered by the glass, half carafe or full carafe with easy to digest price tags. Brunch is served on Sundays, but be prepared, there isn’t a sausage in sight. Instead, virtuous dishes such as Chilled Millet and Quinoa Breakfast Pudding with blueberries, lemon & hazelnuts compete with the not so virtuous cowboy Beans with Rosemary, Bay and Ham Hock with open Ciabatta loaf, Poached Eggs & melted Coolea Cheese. With low carb, vegan and gluten free options this compact northside hideaway is more Santa Monica than Stoneybatter, yet it is fitting in just fine.

50-70% Off TOp IrIsh GOlf Clubs! speCIal deal: €10 coupon code off

your first golf deal purchase use coupon code: 2rJdlX

Just Treats Golf – Irelands only golf deals website!

www.JustTreats.com Leading Suppliers

Wuff Restaurant located along the red luas line Other places worth mentioning in the area include ‘Seven’, a friendly and inviting bistro that has been serving the area well for many years, and Plan B on Manor Place which serves straight up Italian food in this busy trattoria. The latest arrival to the Stoneybatter experience is ‘Soul Ful’ which so far has garnered favourable comments for substantial brunch dishes and attentive staff. On the retail side of the gourmet experience, ‘Little Italy’ has been purveyors of the finest Italian produce for some time now, cementing Stoneybatter’s place in the gastro guidebook.

With the Smithfield Luas stop just around the corner, it won’t be long before this unspoilt area of the city sees its status as a mecca for those who enjoy a good meal elevated – and rightly so.

16

Service April 2013

Restaurant Profile

Anar

Ireland’s Only Persian Food Experience

Meredith Hicks meets Mona Samadi, owner of Anar, Ireland’s only fine dining Persian restaurant.

I

have been to many a takeaway and kebab stand since I have been here in Dublin, which was why I was excited to find a restaurant that serves more than kebabs and chips.

I spent a bit of time with Mona, who as one of Anar’s two owners, and she helped me find out a bit more about Ireland’s first Persian sit down restaurant.

What is the meaning of Anar?

The word ‘Anar’ means pomegranate! I thought it was a simple name that was easy to pronounce and remember first of all. It’s a very pretty sounding name in Persian, as well as it being a real traditional Iranian fruit that is used a lot in Iranian and Arabic dishes. I couldn’t think of anything better to use as a name for the restaurant!

What gave you the idea to start this venture?

My parents were always in the restaurant business. My father is a restaurateur and chef, and my family had a business on Georges Street in Dublin a few years before. We all enjoyed working together and we loved what we did. This is probably how the idea popped up about opening our own Persian restaurant. Presently, I and my mother, Monir, are partners and the owners of Anar. It’s been an ongoing concept and project which has been going on for about two years now. It’s been hard work, but I am so glad that we went through with it!

When did you open Anar?

We finally got everything together and opened on December 21st, 2012. It was a real celebration! There were so many people from Iran that were eager and curious to try our dishes. There is a growing Iranian community in Ireland, so it was nice to finally open a spot that represents our cultural dishes.

What’s the capacity and the turnover rate?

We hold 52 covers and 20 upstairs in our wine bar. So far, the turnover has been steadily increasing. Our weekends have been very busy, so I would recommend people to call in advance for seating. Weekdays could be better, but we are really happy that so many people have been coming in to eat here.

What are you finding are the strongest ways to advertise?

As of now, we haven’t had to do any major advertising. People have come to us because they have heard about us from other customers, which I am thrilled about. We do however, have a

Leading Suppliers

Proud restaurant owner Mona Samadi Facebook page, which offers a glance into our menu, as well as photos of the restaurant. We have also had a couple of events and that has attracted many new people. Norouz for example, is our first day of spring, and we tend to celebrate it like Christmas in Ireland! We decided to set a Norouz menu, which consists of traditional dishes that we would eat during this celebration. People enjoyed it, so we will probably do it again next year. In terms of specific advertising, we are going to look into the possibilities available.

Are there options available for people with specific food needs?

Most of our dishes are coeliac friendly. We don’t have any flour or cream in our dishes. We also have vegetarian and vegan options. For example dolmeh (stuffed grape leaves) have been made without meat for people to enjoy. My wish is that our customer feels comfortable to come to us with any specific requests and we have no problem arranging a meal

that will accommodate their needs.

What does your clientele look like presently? Is it a diverse crowd of people that come in?

Our clientele is a mature crowd as well as business professionals. In the evenings a lot of couples come in. We get native Irish people from the surrounding areas in Dublin.

Because of Terenure’s location, it isn’t hard to get to us from different areas. I have noticed that people are very curious about Persian dishes, and want to know the difference between our food, and different cuisine that they may have tried previously. We’ve had a positive response so far, because the feedback we get is that people are pleased with what they are eating!

What steps have been taken to train the staff?

For me, the staff is an integral part in our success as a restaurant. They need to know how to be able to treat and

Service April 2013 17

customers request events, even to the small details like providing balloons. If one customer is happy, then it makes our job worth the effort. We may start thinking of having Iranian musicians play in our wine bar upstairs once a week, but at the moment, we are taking things step-by-step. All I can say is that it is important that Anar starts to become more established within the community and in and around Dublin, and as our clientele begins to grow, it will be a rewarding experience in the future. It actually is already a rewarding experience!

Anar 101 Terenure Road East Terenure Dublin 6

All set! properly serve the people that come in. The staff has been personally trained to help explain certain dishes to new customers if they request information, or are curious about certain dishes. We however have also described our food in our menu, so people can get an idea of what they may be interested in trying out. I have to say how grateful I am that I have such a dedicated staff working here. With my father cooking as one of the chefs, and my mother as a partner, we try to create a familiar and pleasant working environment for everyone.

What are your best-selling and most popular dishes?

Our most popular dish is our lamb stew gheymeh, which is served with basmati rice. It’s also topped up with handful of chips, which many customers may think we do because we are in Ireland. The fact is, in Iran, it is actually served this way!

Our best-selling dish would have to be kask- e-bademjoon, a

The chic interior of Terenure’s newest restaurant Anar fried eggplant dish mixed with whey, onion, garlic and fried mint. Most of our ingredients we can purchase in Ireland, but for specific spices and certain rare ingredients, we will order from Iran. If Anar is going to stay an authentic restaurant, it is important that we remain true to the traditional ingredients, and not compromise on taste and quality.

What are your main ambitions and goals for the future of Anar?

Anar was a dream that has finally turned into a reality. Finding the right premises took time. It was and is important that we concentrate on shaping Anar into a restaurant where people can enjoy fine and traditional meals that will make people want to come back. We provide not only kebabs and rice, as a zaytoon ( a takeaway) would, but we also provide slow cooked authentic Persian dishes that you cannot find anywhere else.

At the moment, we are already organising private parties, birthdays and special occasions. We dedicate time when

Generated by MenuPages so far…

ANAr

Bookings - 62 Total Covers - 155 Revenue - €3,875

Generated by MenuPages so far…

Vermilion

Bookings - 295 Total Covers - 754 Revenue - €18,625

Generated by MenuPages so far…

Sawadee Thai Bookings - 573 Total Covers - 1590 Revenue - €39,750

Generated by MenuPages so far…

JD’s Steakhouse Bookings - 498 Total Covers - 1324 Revenue - €33,100

Anar restaurant

Leading Suppliers

18

Service April 2013

cocktAil & wine oF month

wine oF the month Saint clair premium Sauvignon blanc

N

ow that spring has finally shown its face we’ll be enjoying more time with friends in the long evenings, either by dining al fresco or simply reclining and chatting in the evening sun. This is the time, then, to put away the heavy winter reds and enjoy something lighter and brighter, and so this month we strongly recommend the Saint Clair Premium Sauvignon Blanc. Ireland’s favourite white grape varietal achieves its maximum expression in the hands of the Ibbotson family, owners of the Saint Clair Estate in New Zealand, and this premium Marlborough bottling is a perfect example of their expertise.

With intense and powerful aromas of blackcurrant, passionfruit, grapefruit and gooseberry, this is an ideal match with a sunny antipasto, grilled seasonal vegetables or fresh seafood.

cocktAil oF the month Stoli® chocolat razberi™ holiday Fizz

T

he clocks have changed, the sun has finally made an appearance and the temperatures are finally rising from the floor - it must be spring! If you’re planning on enjoying some cocktails al fresco with some friends in the coming months, you can’t get more seasonal that a Stoli® Chocolat Razberi™ Holiday Fizz, which has its emphasis firmly on one of our favourite sping/summer berries. Simply mix together 2 parts Stoli® Chocolat Razberi™ with a ½ part sugar syrup, a splash of club soda and garnish with a handful of raspberries. And then relax, of course!

Leading Suppliers

20

Service April 2013

cAFFeine corner

THE COFFEE CONUNDRUM Service investigates the public’s feeling on the ever increasing standards of being served coffee made with capsules.

Y

ou’ve just had dinner at one of the best restaurants in the country, the kind of place where the chef talks about his passion for perfection, obsession with detail and demand for the best, freshest ingredients. You know that there is probably one cook in the kitchen for every couple in the dining room. So you might feel surprised — even cheated — to discover that the coffee you are now enjoying was made by the waiter popping a capsule into a machine and pressing a button.

This is not a fanciful scenario. In the UK, more than 15 Michelinstarred restaurants use Nespresso, the market-leading capsule system, to make their coffee — including Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck in Berkshire, and The Ledbury in London. In France, Nespresso supplies more than 100 Michelin restaurants, including the legendary L’Arpège in Paris. Even in Italy, where the first espresso machine was patented in 1884, more than 20 Michelin restaurants use the new capsule system, and many others around the world use it or its rivals developed by Illy, Kimbo, Lavazza and Segafredo. Push-button espresso began as a domestic product, a way to simulate espresso at home without the mess and fuss. But in recent years it has rapidly, if quietly, started to take over the restaurant world.

You might not care much about fine dining or coffee. But you probably do value the skills of the artisan and might well believe that food is one of the ever-dwindling number of domains where individual human flair and creativity cannot be bettered by the mass-produced and mechanised. If so, you should care about the challenge to your assumptions that the rise of capsule coffee represents.

That concern lead me to a private dining room at the two Michelin-starred Latymer restaurant, part of the Pennyhill Park country house hotel in Surrey. With me were a coffee shop owner, two coffee obsessives, and a coffee-drinking friend. We were going to blind-taste three coffees: Nespresso capsule coffee, which is served in the restaurant; the traditional espresso that the hotel provides for room service; and a third unmarked coffee I had brought with me to be made the same way, just to see if the whole thing was nonsense and coffee is coffee is coffee. It was the artisan versus the machine, and given how top chefs had already voted with their contracts, the odds were

Leading Suppliers

against the result I instinctively preferred.

Ever since Alan Turing first suggested that we might be able to build a computer with an intelligence that could not be distinguished from a human’s, people have been trying to carve out a domain of activity that must be forever distinctly human.

Chess grandmasters were once held up as exemplars of exactly what computers could not do. But after IBM’s Deep Blue computer defeated the world chess champion Garry Kasparov in 1997, this was quietly forgotten, and we looked instead to creativity, believing it absurd to think that a computer program could surpass Hamlet or Beethoven’s late string quartets.

With the benefit of hindsight, it now seems obvious that chess is just the kind of thing that computers could do well. The advent of capsule systems heralds pretty much the same realisation for espresso coffee. Coffee-making lends itself to automation, since all the key variables are strictly controllable.

Technically, it’s relatively easy to get hold of the best coffee beans, roast them at the right temperature for the right time, grind them to the right fineness, and then vacuum-seal the right quantity for one shot. From that point on, the coffee will not degrade, effectively being as fresh once the machine pierces the capsule as it was when it went in. Then it’s a matter of hiring leading coffee experts, throwing millions of pounds of R&D at a crack team of engineers, and building a machine that will force the right amount of water through the coffee at the right temperature and pressure.

That’s all very well, but surely coffee is the exception, not the rule, to the artisanal qualities of food and drink? That could be a complacent thought, and ironically, the people whose work most suggests it is are currently at the vanguard of artisan cooking: the molecular gastronomers. Donning both lab coat and chef’s hat, these pioneers are exploring how the science of cooking and sensory perception can tell us the best ways to cook and prepare foods. At the moment, this approach requires enormous amounts of time and kit, and you can enjoy the results only at restaurants such as the Fat Duck, where they come at vast expense (£195 per head without service or wine).

But the logical consequence of molecular gastronomy is hautemechanisation. If the best way to cook meat, for example, really is to vacuum-seal it with some herbs and spices and cook in water at 55 °C (131 °F) for 48 hours, then as soon as a suitable, cheap sous-videcooker is available, there is no reason why a novice chef in a local pub, or anyone else for that matter, couldn’t collect it from the butcher and do as good a job as anyone else.

Even at El Bulli in Spain, voted the world’s best restaurant for a record five years before it closed in July 2011, this basic principle

In theory, that is bound to result in a better brew than the traditional process, which, for all its romance, is full of opportunities for degradation and mishap. A bag of beans, once opened, will start to lose its flavour very rapidly once it is ground. Calibrating temperature and pressure is also difficult and subject to human error. While the capsule always contains exactly the same amount of coffee, the amount the traditional barista places in the portafiltro, and the degree to which is it compacted with the tamper, will always differ slightly. Most cafés do not get every step right, and they only get away with it because most people drown their espressos in steamed milk.

‘You have to function like perfect machines,’ Adrià was shown telling the kitchen staff at El Bulli

George Clooney’s ad campaign for Nespresso helped the use of coffee capsules become mainstream

Service April 2013 21

superior in its physical properties, we have good reasons for preferring a less perfect, handcrafted one.

Corporations know this, which is why they will often use bogus personalisation to make their products seem more appealing, like putting a picture of a farmer on the label, or giving the product the name of a person or place. But do we have good reasons for this preference, or is it just romantic nonsense? I think we do. We live in a world of humans, other animals and things, and the quality of life depends on the qualities of the relationships between them. Mass production, like factory farming, weakens, if not destroys, these relationships. This creates a kind of alienation, where we feel no genuine, human contact with those who supply us with what we need.

Coffee is seen as an art form for many was evident. Head chef Ferran Adrià and his core team were not actually the ones preparing the food on the night. Their main role was to develop dishes, in a form of gastronomic R&D, during the six months of each year that El Bulli was closed. The restaurant kitchen itself was really just a very fancy production line. ‘You have to function like perfect machines,’ Adrià was shown telling the kitchen staff in the documentary El Bulli: Cooking in Progress (2011). If that’s true, then in the long run, why not simply use perfect machines in restaurant kitchens, just as computerisation and mechanisation took human beings off the production floors of car plants?

Mechanised production can be wonderfully democratising, turning all sorts of things that were luxury, bespoke items into things everyone could afford, like the car, central heating, and computers. In the gastronomic utopia of the future, no one need be condemned to thin, dishwater coffee, or pies with pastry like wet cardboard.

For most epicures, it is almost an article of faith that this will never happen, because food needs to be cooked with love, flair and passion. While this might conceivably be true at the very peak of culinary art, in most cases mechanisation is competing not against the artisanal best but against the human mean. So, even if the very best coffee is still made the traditional way by a skilled, human barista, all Nespresso need do is produce better coffee than the majority of baristas, whom most coffee fanatics describe as incompetent anyway.

The claim that handcrafted is better does not stand up a priori.

It needs to be put the test. And for coffee, that’s exactly what I did.

The tasting was designed to be as blind as possible, with each taster trying each coffee in a different order, so as to counter any advantage or disadvantage that coming first or last might give. The coffees were brought in by a waiter, not by the experienced barista Bruno Asselin, who is also the manager of the Latymer restaurant at the hotel. He had thoroughly cleaned the traditional espresso machine, opened a fresh bag of beans, and ground them just before the tasting.

We tasted the three coffees in silence, scoring them on a scale from zero to seven points, and jotting down personal tasting notes. My scores were not used in the final reckoning because, in making sure that Bruno had understood the system, I had seen which coffee corresponded to each number. Then we totted up the scores.

In distant last place came the ground coffee I had brought, a very good quality, single-estate bean, but not roasted for

Leading Suppliers

espresso and ground four days earlier, a little too coarsely for Bruno’s machine. The traditional house espresso scored 18 points, and was the favourite of one taster. But the clear winner with 22 points was the Nespresso, which both scored most consistently and was the favourite of two of the four tasters. Of course, these were just four people’s opinions. But their consensus fits the judgment of top chefs and Nespresso’s own extensive testing, which must have been conclusive enough for them to have the confidence to agree to my challenge in the first place.

Does this herald the death of artisan coffee, except in those exclusive enclaves where the very best, most obsessive practitioners ply their trade? And is the writing on the wall for other areas of human excellence where we cling to the idea that artisanal is best? A lifeline might seem to be provided by the detailed reviews of the coffees we tasted.The key descriptors for Nespresso were ‘smooth’ and ‘easy to drink’. And from the point of view of restaurateurs who use it, the key word is ‘consistency’. It was far from bland, but it was not challenging or distinctive either. It’s a coffee everyone can really like but few will love: the highest common denominator, if you like. The second-place coffee had more bite, and was the favourite of myself and the 10-cup-a-day connoisseur, but scored a pathetic two points from one person on the panel who took against it.

That taster was actually a bit of a coffee nerd and he made the acute observation that what Nespresso had really done was to look at the coffee-making process and systematically remove all that is problematic in it. The result is something flawless, but that is a particular and limited form of excellence or perfection.

Perhaps there are peaks above perfection that can be achieved only by accepting a certain amount of imperfection. A perfect bottle of cola will not be as good as an average meal at El Bulli, even if they screw up one of the 40 courses.

Yet even subtle variations might themselves be perfectible. One day it might be possible to produce mechanically the coffee that is just right for you, even perhaps for you just now rather than yesterday.

The only way truly to defend the artisans against all that technology might put up against them is to give up the entire premise of my blind tasting, that is, the idea that it does not matter how the coffee came to be, all that counts is its final taste.

Surely we appreciate the handmade in part because it is handmade. An object or a meal has different meaning and significance if we know it to be the product of a human being working skilfully with tools rather than a machine stamping out another clone. Even if in some ways a mass-produced object is

We are not simply hedonic machines who thrive if supplied with things that tick certain boxes for sensory pleasure, aesthetic merit, and so on. We are knowing as well as sensing creatures, and knowing where things come from, and how their makers are treated, does and should affect how we feel about them. Chocolate made from cocoa beans grown by people in near slave conditions should taste more bitter than a fairly traded bar, even if it does not in a blind tasting. Blindness, far from making tests fair, actually robs us of knowledge of what is most important, while perpetuating the illusion that all that really matters is how it feels or seems at the moment of consumption.

This might seem a simple, even platitudinous point. But it has profound political implications. For if it is true, then the whole way in which efficiency is usually measured is fundamentally flawed.Take agriculture. Proponents of organics and other nonintensive, less petrochemically dependent forms of farming are often drawn into the game of defending their approach only by measurable, objective results. So the battle becomes a statistical debate over yield, water usage, carbon footprint, soil erosion, and so forth.The trouble is that the kind of human-scale farming that people like does not always win when judged by these metrics.

Of course, we need to think about yield, efficiency and environmental impact. But we also need to think about what kind of world we want to live in. And if we do, most of us would say that we would prefer food chains that preserve human links between consumer, farmer, land, and animals, in a landscape that combines functionality and beauty as much as is possible. We prefer to buy coffee traded between small groups of individuals rather than beans of the same quality, grown to the same environmental standards, but channelled through large multinationals with an exclusive right to supply the machine you buy from them.That is not to say we must shun technology, never use polytunnels, or insist that all chickens come from a nearby country lane. But it does mean it is legitimate to prefer forms of trade and artisan production that maintain links between individuals, communities, land, and animals.

It is not that handmade is always best, of course. Much technology is itself a testimony to human creativity and ingenuity. Apple has got very rich through supplying technology that is beautifully designed by humans who are as gifted as the best artisans.There is plenty that we should happily allow to be mechanised, for the obvious benefits that brings. But there is plenty else we will continue to prefer to be handmade, because what matters is not just the result, but the process by which you get there. Humans are imperfect, and so a world of perfection that denies the human element can never be truly perfect after all.

Written by Julian Baggini for Aeon Magazine

22

Service April 2013

On the block/Jobs Dublin Airside Quarter, Swords, Co. Dublin Rent Negotiable The subject development comprises two ground floor restaurant units beside one of Dublin’s largest and most modern nightclubs, The Wright Venue. The nightclub has a capacity of 3,200 and spans over 4,000sqm. The scheme also includes the Penthouse Casino.

Unit 20, Smithfield Plaza, Smithfield, Dublin 7 €30,354 yearly Unit Price: €215.28 per sq. m (€20.00 per sq. ft) per year This is an excellent opportunity to rent a high profile corner shop unit, which faces directly on to the market square on the west side of Smithfield Plaza.

This corner shop is located directly opposite the 550 bed Generator Hostel and may suit a convenience store or a cafe/ restaurant, subject to planning permission.

This self ground floor lock up shop and is located close to Bel Cibo Pizzaria, Number 6 Bar & restaurant and the Smithfield Park Right car park . It is also within 200 meters walking distance from the Smithfield LUAS...

Cork North Point Business Park, Blackpool, Co. Cork €1,000 monthly Property Overview: Unit Price: €4.68 per sq. m

JOBS Sous chef The Dawson restaurant at La stampa, Dublin 2 Sous chef required for the launch of the new restaurant at la stampa,must have a good work ethic and have experience in fine dining or high end establishments..

Head Pastry Chef Fade street social by Dylan McGrath, Dublin 2 New concept restaurant under Michelin Star Chef Dylan McGrath, based in Dublin 2. right in the heart of Dublin’s shopping and entertainment district.

We are looking for Expericenced Head Pastry Chef to work with in are Pastry team All applicants must have pervious expericence in simlar role and english speaking kitchens HACCP trained English Head Chef Gotham Cafe, Dublin 2 Great opportunity to head up a small, busy and

Leading Suppliers

(€0.43 per sq. ft) per month Property Description: Completely fitted out cafe / coffee shop for Rent Cafe Blasta is a 2,300 square foot coffee shop situated at the entrance to North Point Business Park in Blackpool, Cork. This completely fitted out café enjoys a high footfall and excellent existing trade at one of the largest and busiest business parks in Cork.

The cafe is completely fitted out with: - All hot and cold display cabinets - Cooking Facilities - Fridges - Coffee Machines - Dishwashers - Air Conditioning - All delft and cutlery

GALWAY Abbeygate Street, Galway City Centre, Co. Galway €220,000 This is an excellent opportunity to purchase a restaurant building which previously housed the thriving business of the well known restaurant €Couch Potatas€TM The property is located on Abbeygate Street which has an excellent passing trade both pedestrian and is the main feeder road around Galway city for vehicular traffic, and accordingly has a very high profile location. The restaurant is all on the ground floor with a total floor area of approximately 650 sq.ft.

ACCOMMODATION: Restaurant area. Cashier area.

Kitchen. Toilet. Store.

ASKING PRICE: €220,000. Rates: approx. €5,000 per annum

organised kitchen working with our Executive Head Chef.

Would suit Senior Sous looking for a step up to this level & ready to lead the Team.

Gotham Restaurant Group has an opening for a head chef.The restaurant is relaxed in style but we are ambitious in our standards of food and service.

In 2013 we celebrate 20 years in business so we are doing something right. see wwwgothamcafe.ie for details Commis chef/ Chef de partie Nautilus Restaurant , Malahide We currently have a position available for a Commis chef/ chef de partie in our restaurant situated in the heart of Malahide. We are looking for someone who is enthusiastic, creative, hardworking, passionate about food and can work well as part of a team.

It is a unique chance to be part of a lively and exciting team in a successful restaurant in the heart of Malahide.

We are open from 5pm and week days and 1230pm on weekends.

PROPERTY OF THE MONTH Kiosk Unit, Millennium Walkway, Dublin 1 Rent Negotiable The property is located on the west side of Millennium Walkway between Abbey Street Upper and Strand Street Great close to the entrance to Jervis Shopping Centre. The pedestrianized shopping district of Henry Street which is one of Dublins prime shopping areas is located nearby. Neighboring tenants include KOH, Cactus Jacks, Boojum and Spar.

The subject property is a high profile two story glass building.The property benefits from café/retail planning with a mezzanine level providing customer seating. This opportunity would suit a variety of uses subject to planning permission.

SPECIFICATION - Existing shop fit out.

- Suspended ceilings.

-Heating and cooling air conditioning.

- Florescent and decorative lighting.

- Security and fire alarmed.

- Fully equipped kitchen facilities - Tiled/ timber flooring.

AREA Ground: 35.57 sq m (384 sq ft).

First Floor: 31.32 sq m (302 sq ft) Total: 66.89 sq m (720 sq ft).

Job OF THE MONTH

targets a strong financial acumen and sales focus is essential. Good support will Head Chef Kylemore Abbey and be provided but the candidate needs to be energetic and self motivated.

Garden, Connemara, Co. Galway The successful candidate must be able to deliver on four key elements: 1.

2.

3.

4.

Kylemore Abbey and Victorian Walled Garden is the number 1 tourist attraction

in the west of Ireland.

Consistently high food quality standards.

Maintain food cost in line with, or better than, budget.

Manage the labour resource in the kitchen in line with, or better than, budget.

Maintain impeccable hygiene standards through implementation of Food Hygiene and HACCP principles.

Applications are invited from suitably qualified Chefs for this full time position If you are ambitious, energetic and ready at Kylemore Abbey & Victorian Walled to take a progressive step in your career, if you feel you have all the skills necessary Garden. to deliver on the four key elements listed The ideal candidate will have a passion above and you would like to join a for food along with a flair for food dynamic and successful team, this is the presentation and menu planning. In order ideal role for you. to achieve business sales and profit