Bienvenidos After dark | Gallery trot in Truchas | Low and slow in El Norte
2012 Summer Guide to Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico
The Santa Fe New Mexican | www.santafenewmexican.com
LET’S PLAY
BUFFALO THUNDER RESORT •
27-hole golf course
•
Seven restaurants, from fine dining to casual
•
Full service spa and salon
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A world-class, museum quality collection of Native American artwork
•
Easy access to hiking, rafting and other outdoor adventures
BUFFALOTHUNDERRESORT.com • 877-THUNDER 30 Buffalo Thunder Trail, Pueblo of Pojoaque, NM 87506. 15 minutes north of the Santa Fe Plaza on Highway 84/285
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Casweck Galleries One of a Kind Fine Art Casweck Galleries
Casweck Casweck Galleries Galleries Casweck Casweck Galleries Galleries One of a Kind Fine Art One One of of a aKind Fine Fine Art Art One One of of aKind aKind Kind Fine Fine Art Art
marji gallery & Fine Paintings, Sculpture, Jewelry and Furniture 203 Fine W WATER STREET SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO IN THE WATER/GALISTEO DISTRICT Fine Paintings, Paintings, Sculpture, Sculpture, Jewelry Jewelry and and Furniture Furniture Fine Fine Paintings, Paintings, Sculpture, Sculpture, Jewelry Jewelry and and Furniture Furniture CASWECKGALLERIES@GMAIL.COM WWW.CASWECKGALLERIES.COM
contemporary projects
5 0FE, 5FE, -NEW 9 MEXICO 8 MEXICO 8 MEXICO - IN 2 IN 9 IN 6THE 6THE 203203 W WATER WW WATER STREET STREET SANTA SANTA FE, NEW NEW MEXICO THE WATER/GALISTEO WATER/GALISTEO DISTRICT DISTRICT 203 203 W WATER WATER STREET STREET SANTA SANTA FE, NEW IN THE WATER/GALISTEO WATER/GALISTEO DISTRICT DISTRICT CASWECKGALLERIES@GMAIL.COM CASWECKGALLERIES@GMAIL.COM WWW.CASWECKGALLERIES.COM WWW.CASWECKGALLERIES.COM CASWECKGALLERIES@GMAIL.COM WWW.CASWECKGALLERIES.COM CASWECKGALLERIES@GMAIL.COM WWW.CASWECKGALLERIES.COM
5 0555 05 -58 89 -89 962 69 0- 0 59 -9-89 8- 82 -2-62 9 66 6
Fine Paintings, Sculpture, Jewelry and Furniture
WATER STREET SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO IN THE WATER/GALISTEO DISTRICT ASWECKGALLERIES@GMAIL.COM WWW.CASWECKGALLERIES.COM
505 - 988 - 2966
217 W Water St • Santa Fe NM 87501
(505) 983 1012 info@marjigallerysantafe.com
Benefiting UNM Hospital’s Nurse Oncology Endowment
CHARITY AnTIque SHow August 4th and 5th 2012 Sneak Preview August 3rd 2012 Lujan Center • Expo NM • Albuquerque Fairgrounds
4000 Central SE • ABQ, NM 87108 Open 7 Days • (505) 255-4054
cowboysandindiansnm.com greatsouthwesternantiqueshow.com
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Georgia O’Keeffe and the Faraway: n at u r e a n D i m a g e t H e e X H i B i t i O n t H at S H e D S n e W L i g H t O n t H e aDVentureSOme aSPeCtS OF O’KeeFFe’S LiFe & art
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Georgia O’Keeffe, White Place in Shadow, 1941. Oil on Canvas, 19 x 10 inches. Loan, Private Collection. Todd Webb, Georgia O’Keeffe at Glen Canyon, 1961. Gelatin silver print, 9 1/2 x 7 1/2 inches. Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. Gift of The Georgia O’Keeffe Foundation. © Todd Webb Estate.
Georgia O’Keeffe, Black Place, Grey and Pink, 1949. Oil on canvas, 36 x 48 inches. Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, Gift of The Burnett Foundation. © Georgia O’Keeffe Museum.
217 JOHNSON Street, SaNta fe • 5O5.946.1OOO • OKMUSeUM.OrG OPeN DaILY 1O aM – 5 PM • OPeN Late, UNtIL 7 PM, frIDaY eveNINGS
6 2012 Bienvenidos
20 1 2 Bienvenidos 7
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G. CANYON ROAD LOT 761 Canyon Road Surface lot includes 50 spaces (2 disabled spaces) Hours: Open 24 hours / 7 days week Lot serviced by pay and display machine Rates: $1.80/hour; $9 maximum
PARKING LOTS
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F. ARCHDIOCESE LOT 251 E. Alameda Street Surface lot includes 174 spaces (5 disabled spaces) Hours: Open 24 hours / 7 days week. Lot serviced with 3 paystations Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum (Lot accommodates RVs and buses for an additional fee)
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E. CATHEDRAL LOT 131 Cathedral Place Surface lot includes 172 spaces (7 disabled spaces) Hours: Open 24 hours / 7 days week. Lot serviced by 2 paystations Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum
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B. SANDOVAL GARAGE 216 W. San Francisco Street Multi-level aboveground parking garage includes 404 spaces (8 disabled spaces) Hours: Monday through Saturday, 6 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.* Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum **
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D. WATER STREET LOT 102 E. Water Street Surface lot includes 156 spaces (4 disabled spaces) Hours: Monday through Saturday, 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.* Rates: $2/hour; $10 maximum
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Feb. 2012 - City of Santa Fe GIS Division - JDG
* Facility closes one hour earlier between November and May. ** Rates vary during special events.
CAMINO DEL MONTE SOL
Parking in Downtown Santa Fe
en las calles | on the streets
ST
DR T FRANCIS S SAIN
C W RE I T AT H E O YO U U R R B L JA A N CK K E ET TS
Our location on the Plaza also has museum quality antique and contemporary Native art
Mandarin Collar Blazer from the Chey Eagle Blanket
MARIA MARTINEZ
NAMPEYO
MARGARET TAFOYA
Native Jackets u On The Plaza u Santa Fe, New Mexico 505-984-0005 u 888-420-0005 www.NativeJackets.com u www.toadlenatradingpost.com 20 1 2 Bienvenidos 9
COVER PHOTO
Don J. Usner Fred and Anthony Rael in Fred’s 1967 Impala show car, “Liquid Sunshine”
adentro | inside
COVER DESIGN
Deborah Villa
OWNER
Robin Martin PUBLISHER
Ginny Sohn EDITOR
Rob Dean EDITORIAL
Creative director Deborah Villa 986-3027, dvilla@sfnewmexican.com Magazine editor Pat West-Barker 986-3052, mag@sfnewmexican.com ADVERTISING
Advertising director Tamara Hand 986-3007 ART DEPARTMENT
Scott Fowler, manager Rick Artiaga, Dale Deforest, Elspeth Hilbert, Melyssa Holik Advertising layout Christine Huffman ADVERTISING SALES
Michael Brendel, 995-3825 Gary Brouse, 995-3861 Kaycee Cantor, 995-3844 Mike Flores, 995-3840 Margaret Henkels, 995-3820 Belinda Hoschar, 995-3844 Cristina Iverson, 995-3830 Stephanie Green, 995-3820 Jan Montoya, 995-3838 Art Trujillo, 995-3820 NATIONALS ACCOUNT MANAGER
Rob Newlin, 505-995-3841 nationals@sfnewmexican.com SYSTEMS
Technology director Michael Campbell
PRODUCTION
Operations director Al Waldron Assistant production director Tim Cramer Prepress manager Dan Gomez Press manager Larry Quintana Packaging manager Brian Schultz DISTRIBUTION
en las calles | on the streets 8
Where to park in downtown Santa Fe
mosacio de santa fe | mosaic of santa fe 12
Sunset, Rio Grande, El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro
14
Broncos, bandstand, marimas and a naturalist’s birthday
16
Martín Rios’ cool summer salad and cooler head prevail
18
City of markets — Four not to miss, seven more to note
20
Collectibles for all tastes and budgets
22
Five Santa Fe chefs share some favorite things
24
Must-reads for New Mexico history lovers
Circulation manager Michael Reichard Distribution coordinator Casey Brewer
cientos de años | hundreds of years
WEB
26
Letting our freak flags fly: City’s dwellers embrace ‘different’ label
28
Signs of the times: New Mexico’s state symbols offer mini-history lessons
30
10 Landmark images: Telling New Mexico’s history through its art
33
Turn left at A-l-b-u-q-u-e-r-q-u-e: ‘R’ we there yet?
Digital development Geoff Grammer www.santafenewmexican.com ADDRESS
Office: 202 E. Marcy St. Hours: 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday Advertising information: 505-986-3082 Delivery: 505-986-3010, 800-873-3372 For copies of this magazine, call 428-7645 or email caseyb@sfnewmexican.com.
10 2012 Bienvenidos
BIENVENIDOS 2012 SUMMER GUIDE TO SANTA FE AND NORTHERN NEW MEXICO PUBLISHED MAY 13, 2012
colores | colors
comida | food
46
Lowriders cruising el norte: An important part of Hispanic culture
87
Cutting out the carne: High cuisine while eating low on the food chain
52
The sounds of music: There are treats for every taste this summer
90
Benedictine monks brew ‘with care and a prayer’ in Abiquiú
55
Going to the dogs: Off-leash and on-patio in Santa Fe
94
Brewing up a storm: Where to find the suds in Santa Fe and points north
59
Life is short, art long — wear comfortable shoes
96
The guard changes but The Palace still stands
62
Love the nightlife? Live music after dark
98
Eating at the extremes: Far-flung communities offer local specialties
aire libre | fresh air
por el camino | along the road
68
Fort Union is a ghost of its former self
104 Legendary and living: Taos celebrates its remarkable women
70
Villanueva State Park: A great place to hike, picnic or fish
107 High art: An art scene thrives in the mountain town of Truchas
72
Small is educational: The Pecos National Historical Park Museum
110 Road trippin’ in Northern New Mexico
76
Santa Clara Pueblo’s enterprises cover a broad spectrum
78
Rules of etiquette for pueblo visitation
almanaque | almanac
79
Picuris Pueblo’s quiet village and elegant hotel are worlds apart
115 Calendar of summer events (and moon cycles)
84
Digging it in Madrid: Nonconformists rule former mining town
los esperamos | we’ll wait for you 123 Mountain bikers blaze a trail in October 124 Come back for special fall and winter events
2012 Bienvenidos 11
mosaico de santa fe | mosaic of santa fe
PHOTO COURTESY OF JOHN ANNERINO PHOTOGRAPHY
Sunset, Rio Grande, El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro
“There was no record but memory and it became tradition and then legend and then religion. So long ago that they did not know themselves how long, their ancestors, the ancient people, moved. They went with the weather. Seasons, generations, centuries went by as each brought discovery of places farther toward morning.” — PAUL HORGAN, 1954, GREAT RIVER BOOK
“My journey with camera and pen through the Land of Enchantment was not very direct. I traced many highways, dirt roads, trails, and stony paths across New Mexico to witness sundown on the Rio Grande. There were many forks and detours. Each demanded its own time-line, proffered its own symbol, presented its own distinct marker, and carried its own legend: There were Spanish caminos, jornadas, and entradas; Old West trails, wagon routes, and outlaw trails; Native American trade routes and migration trails; literary and artistic paths and sojourns. Together they enticed me across a landscape of crimson deserts, mysterious cliff dwellings, lofty mesas, and snowblessed mountains I hadn’t seen before. Many were — and remain — like no place on earth. When Willa Cather wrote her endearing novel in 1927, Death Comes for the Archbishop, she described my own feelings that surfaced while tracing echoes of the past across New Mexico’s beloved land: ‘They whispered to the ear on the pillow, lightened the heart, softly picked the lock, slid the bolts, and released the prisoned spirit of man into the wind, into the blue and gold, into the morning, into the morning.’ Hypnotized by the soothing sounds of the Rio Grande, I counted my self lucky to be among them, my spirit set free into the luminous twilight.” — JOHN ANNERINO
NEW MEXICO: A PHOTOGRAPHIC TRIBUTE, CENTENNIAL EDITION BY JOHN ANNERINO Globe Pequot Press, 2012 Available at Garcia Street Books and Collected Works Bookstore, Santa Fe, and online from Amazon.com. Inscribed editions are available from the author: www.johnannerinobooks.com.
12 2012 Bienvenidos
SumMer )0)0)
IndiaNN
current exhibits )0)0) Margarete Bagshaw: Breaking the Rules
Through December 30, 2012
Paintings, bronzes and polychrome ceramic vessels demonstrate the multidimensionality of the artist’s dazzling work.
They Wove For Horses: Woven Identities Through April 1, 2014 Diné Saddle Blankets Exquisite baskets woven by artists represent-
Through March 4, 2013
The great pride and skill the Diné take in adorning their horses is revealed in this display of weavings both everyday and fanciful.
ing 60 cultural groups in six cultural areas of western North America: the Southwest, Great Basin, Plateau, California, the Northwest Coast, and the Arctic.
Buchsbaum Gallery of Southwestern Pottery
Ongoing
Works from the pueblos of New Mexico and Arizona are presented here, representing the evolution of community traditions.
Museum of Indian Arts & Culture Museum Hill off Old Santa Fe Trail | (505) 476-1250 | indianartsandculture.org |
Top: Margarete Bagshaw, Ancestral Procession, 2010. Bottom, left to right: Diné tapestry- and diagonal twill-weave single saddle blanket, Spider Woman Cross style, 1880–9, photo by Blair Clark. Western Apache jar, c. 1900, photo by Addison Doty. Tesuque polychrome jar, 1890, photo by Blair Clark.
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mosaico de santa fe | mosaic of santa fe
PUT ON YOUR DANCING SHOES Clap your hands, tap your toes or get up and boogie: The Santa Fe Bandstand brings free, danceable music to the Plaza four nights and two afternoons a week between July 5 and August 16. Local and touring bands play traditional New Mexican, Tex-Mex, Latin American, folk, swing, jazz, blues, rock, country, zydeco, soul and just about anything else you can think of on Monday through Thursday evenings at 6 p.m, and at noon on Mondays and Wednesdays. See www.Santafebandstand.org/schedule for the 2012 lineup.
Santa Fe Marimba Festival Santa Fe’s inaugural Marimba Festival gathers 10 international artists in The City Different for multiple concerts and workshops celebrating marimba music from around the world between June 6 and 9. Catch free concerts at the gazebo on the Plaza from 3-4:30 p.m. on June 7 and from 3:30-4:30 p.m. on June 8; a free workshop for kids and families from 9-11 a.m. at the New Mexico School for the Arts, 275 E. Alameda St., on Saturday morning, June 9; and a free concert from 12:30-2 p.m. that day at the St. Francis auditorium in the New Mexico Museum of Art. Order tickets to four other events from the Lensic box office (505-988-1234 or www.ticketssantafe.org/ tsf). For a complete list of concerts and workshops, visit www. santafemarimbafestival.org.
GENE PEACH
Ride ’em, rope ’em, race ’em Rodeo de Santa Fe — one of the top 60 PRCA rodeos in the U.S. — hosts it 63rd annual competition from June 20-23 at the fairgrounds, 3237 Rodeo Road. Events include bull riding, bareback and saddle bronc riding, team and tie-down roping, steer wrestling and barrel racing. Rodeo queen and princesses will be crowned before the first night’s show. The annual rodeo parade through downtown Santa Fe starts at 10 a.m. on June 16. Tickets to all events can be ordered online at www.ticketssantafe.org, by calling 505-988-1234, or visiting http:// rodeodesantafe.org.
GENE PEACH
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, ERNEST! What forces transform a man from a professional hunter of wolves to one who champions the intelligence of wild animals and a right relationship with the natural world? On Saturday, August 11, the Academy for the Love of Learning celebrates the 152nd birthday and the legacy of Ernest Thomson Seton — writer, artist, naturalist, early environmentalist and co-founder of Boy Scouts of America — with free programs from 1 to 5 p.m. on the grounds of Seton’s former Santa Fe home. The event includes admission to the Seton Gallery and Archives display housed in the academy’s center and a guided one-hour tour of the Learning Landscape program installed outside the ruins of Seton Castle. Dramatic readings, hosted by David L. Witt, Seton biographer and curator of the Seton Legacy Project, will bring some of the naturalist’s best writings to life. For more information, log onto www.aloveoflearning.org and click on Seton Legacy. — PAT WEST-BARKER
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on the plaza in santa fe NEW MEXICO MUSEUM OF ART IT’S ABOUT TIME: 14,000 YEARS OF ART IN NEW MEXICO 505.476.5072
NEW MEXICO HISTORY MUSEUM/ PA L A C E O F THE GOVERNORS ILLUMINATING THE WORD: THE SAINT JOHN’S BIBLE 505.476.5100
on museum hill in santa fe MUSEUM OF INDIAN A R T S & C U LT U R E THE BUCHSBAUM GALLERY OF SOUTHWESTERN POTTERY 505.476.1250
MUSEUM OF I N T E R N AT I O N A L FOLK ART FOLK ART OF THE ANDES 505.476.1200
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What’s red and blue and green all over? Martín Rios’ blue lump crab salad is the essence of summer, combining the color and crunch of radish, house-dehydrated beets and micro-greens with the freshness of fennel and pear, a spicy avocado pudding and citrusy Greek yogurt dressing. On the appetizer menu at Restaurant Martín in Santa Fe.
ALWAYS A BEARDSMAID? In the 2 1/2 years since he opened his accessible fine-dining restaurant with his wife Jennifer, Martín Rios has been nominated three times by the James Beard Foundation — once for best new restaurant and twice for best chef in the Southwest. Although he has yet to win the coveted award, Rios — who has competed on Iron Chef and received rave reviews from such national publications as Bon Appétit, The New York Times, the Washington Post and the Los Angeles Times — is philosophical about his continuing “Beardsmaid” status. Another chef he knows was nominated for 10 years before he finally won, Rios said with a laugh and a shrug. — PAT WEST-BARKER
PHOTO BY KITTY LEAKEN
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Furnishing New Mexico’s Beautiful Homes Since 1987 Dining Room • Bedroom • Entertainment • Lighting • Accessories Featuring Attractive Handcrafted Furniture Southwest Style • One-of-a kind Pieces
& Gift Show
Reasonable prices every day of the year! Please come in, you’ll be pleasantly surprised.
SANTA FE COUNTRY FURNITURE Funded and hosted
525 Airport Road • 660-4003 • Corner of Center Drive & Airport 1708 Cerrillos Road • 984-1478 • Corner of 2nd & Cerrillos
Monday - Saturday
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9-5
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Closed Sundays 2 0 12 Bienvenidos 17
mosaico de santa fe | mosaic of santa fe
To market, to market … Summer in Santa Fe sparkles with specialty markets offering one-of-a-kind arts and crafts.
SANTA FE INTERNATIONAL FOLK ART MARKET July 13-15 The largest event of its kind in the world, the International Folk Art Market brings more than 150 accomplished folk artists from about 50 countries to Santa Fe to show and sell their handmade work in a festival atmosphere. A week of associated events starts July 7, and includes an artists’ procession and free community celebration at the Santa Fe Railyard from 5-9 p.m. on July 12. Visit www.folkartmarket.org for tickets and a complete schedule.
TRADITIONAL SPANISH MARKET AND CONTEMPORARY HISPANIC MARKET July 28-29 Traditional Spanish Market is the oldest juried market featuring Spanish colonial arts in the U.S., selling traditional tinwork, retablos, bultos, straw appliqué and other historically significant arts and crafts since 1926. Established in 1986, Contemporary Hispanic Market showcases regional
SOFA WEST: SANTA FE August 2-5 The Sculpture Objects Functional Art Fair visits Santa Fe for the fourth time, bringing with it dealers specializing in
Hispanic artists working in a wide range of formats, including photography, printmaking, painting, sculpture, and jewelry. Visit spanishcolonial.org and contemporaryhispanicmarket.com for more information and a schedule of events.
international arts and design. Silver, glass, ceramics and fiber arts are among this year’s must-see works. There’s an opening night preview (by invitation or ticket purchase only) on August 1 and lectures scheduled throughout the event. Visit www.sofaexpo.com/santa-fe/2012/ for more information.
SANTA FE INDIAN MARKET August 18-19 Traditional and contemporary art forms and jewelry fill hundreds of booths at what may be the nation’s — and the world’s — most important annual Native art market. Now in its 91st year, Santa Fe Indian Market brings thousands of the most gifted Native artists in the Americas to the Santa Fe Plaza and surrounding streets. Music, dance, food, film, a live auction and a Native dress competition round out the weekend. Visit swaia.org for more history and a schedule of events.
ALSO SCHEDULED FOR 2012 Roxanne Swentzell, sculptor Photo Kitty Leaken
NATIVE TREASURES INDIAN ARTS FESTIVAL May 26-27 ART SANTA FE July 12-15 GIRLS INC. OF SANTA FE ARTS & CRAFTS SHOW August 4-5 MOUNTAIN MAN TRADE FAIR AND RENDEZVOUS August 9 THE RAG RUG FESTIVAL AND CRAFT SHOW August 11 WHITEHAWK ETHNOGRAPHIC ART SHOW August 9-11 ANTIQUE INDIAN ART SHOW August 12-14 — PAT WEST-BARKER
18 2012 Bienvenidos
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mosaico de santa fe | mosaic of santa fe
Shopping PHOTOS BY KERRY SHERCK
A tin heart from an artist co-op in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, is $30 at Ritual Adornments
Zuni artists Sheldon and Nancy Westika created cufflinks of sterling silver and Sleeping Beauty Mine turquoise, $180 at Keshi
Artist Don Lucas created this squash blossom style necklace of sterling silver and Mediterranean coral, $1,995 at Ortega’s on the Plaza
A milagro cross made in Mexico is $70 at Ritual Adornments
A natural clay seed pot by Rachel Concho of Acoma Pueblo is $300 at Keshi
Hand-painted, one-of-a-kind parfleche boxes by Native American artist Jerry Ingram are filled with an assortment of chocolates, $62 at Todos Santos
A Mexican talavera ceramic plate is $10.95 at Guadalupano Imports
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mosaico de santa fe | mosaic of santa fe
‘These are a few of my favorite things …’ Chefs, like the rest of us, have a few pet ingredients that show up on their tables over and over again. We asked a few of Santa Fe’s pros what we can always find on their menus in one form or another — and what is always in their home pantry.
On the menu: An Ethiopian spice blend called berbere. It’s a combination that includes ground ginger,
cinnamon, cardamom, coriander, fenugreek and red pepper. It improves everything, especially beef and pork. At Café Pasqual’s, we use it in our carne asada and in our summer ribs. We put it on fish, too. We buy an organic version in bulk and sell it on our website. At home: I never go to the store without buying fennel and lemons. I use them raw and cooked all year round — they brighten and add flavor to everything. Katharine Kagel, chef/owner, Café Pasqual’s (http://pasquals.com/)
On the menu: Chile — red and green. Our New Mexico green chile is roasted, chopped and frozen. We use the Caribe method to make our red sauce, cleaning and soaking whole pods, then putting them in a high-tech blender with some water. Chile has been grown here for hundreds of years and is part of our culture. You can’t get it anywhere else. At home: Eggs from the farmers market and more chile! In my spare time I grow my own chile on a plot of land in Villanueva. We make a lot of omelets and huevos rancheros. George Gundry, chef/owner, Atrisco Café & Bar (http://atriscocafe.com/)
On the menu: Anise, in one form or another — fresh fennel, anise seed, fennel pollen. I always put
it somewhere — in fish, in cookies, in chicken stock. People will say they don’t care for licorice, but if they don’t know it’s there, they usually like it. At home: There’s always Heinz ketchup and organic, unsweetened soy milk in my refrigerator. The ketchup is just there. I use the soy milk in my cereal and make an Alfredo sauce with it. Eric DiStefano, chef/co-owner, Geronimo, Coyote Café and The Den (www.geronimorestaurant.com and www.coyotecafe.com)
On the menu: Sweet soy sauce (aka kecap manis). We use it in our sweet and spicy bar nuts, add it to a pomegranate reduction and mix it into a soy vinaigrette; it’s not particularly salty on its own. It adds body and a deep base flavor note to dishes. At home: Dijon mustard is always on hand. I use it to make a simple French vinaigrette — mustard, red wine vinegar, salt and a really good olive oil. My kids are starting to like it on their salads, too. Charles Dale, executive chef, Terra restaurant at Encantado Resort (www.encantadoresort.com/ dining/restaurant/)
James Caruso Campbell began exploring Spanish and Spanish-inspired foods when he moved to New Mexico in 1989. His first cookbook captured the flavors of Santa Fe’s El Farol restaurant, where he was executive chef for seven years. His newest book — España: Exploring the Flavors of Spain — celebrates the ingredients that form the backbone of the cuisine at La Boca, the tapas bar and restaurant he opened in 2006. In the book: Beautifully photographed recipes for salads, soups and stews, vegetable, meat and seafood tapas, main dishes and desserts. Prominently featured are Spanish cheeses, pork, olives, olive oil, peppers and fish — from preserved white anchovies to canned and jarred conservas, from dried salt cod to fresh fish and shellfish — it’s all here for the adventurous home cook. Find a copy at local bookstores, on La Boca’s website (http://labocasf.com/) or at Amazon.com. — PAT WEST-BARKER
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A Season of Splendor
Music from Angel Fire A N G E L F I R E • TA O S • L A S V E G A S • R AT O N
AUGUST 17 - SEPT 2 , 2012 FOR TICKETS & INFORMATION
(575) 377-3233 • Toll Free (888) 377-3300 musicfromangelfire.org This project funded in part by public funds from Angel Fire, Las Vegas, San Miguel County and Raton Lodgers’ Tax, Town of Taos, New Mexico Arts, a division of the Dept. of Cultural Affairs and the National Endowment for the Arts.
Komarov dress with Tony Malmed jewelry
108 Don Gaspar 505-988-9558 open daily
Classical Concerts • Southwestern Art Auction
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mosaico de santa fe | mosaic of santa fe
Reading between the times The names of things
Painting the town
What is a movida? Who is Debbie Jaramillo? Where is the Bosque Redondo?* The Encyclopedia of Santa Fe and Northern New Mexico answers these and many other questions about el norte’s places, spaces, famous (and infamous) denizens, flora, fauna, family names, local lore and much, much more. Author Mark Cross began his research for the book shortly after moving to Santa Fe in 1996 — first for his own education, then as a resource for visitors, transplants and even natives who may not know everything about their home territory. Listings are alphabetical and include a pronunciation guide. Indexes make the material easy to find; Cross’ breezy style makes it easy to read. An entertaining and useful addition to any library, The Encyclopedia is available locally at Collected Works Bookstore and Garcia Street Books and online from Amazon.com or www.encyclopediaofsantafe.com.
How did tiny Santa Fe, tucked away in relative isolation in the mountains of Northern New Mexico, become one of the top art markets and cultural travel destinations in the U.S.? Santa Fe resident, gallerist and art writer Stacia Lewandowski explores just that question in Light, Landscape and the Creative Quest: Early Artists of Santa Fe. With stories about more than 40 painters, writers, architects and sculptors who moved to or visited Santa Fe — from Carlos Vierra in 1904 to Alfred Morang in 1937 — she traces both the artists’ influence on the culture and development of the City Different and Northern New Mexico’s impact on their work. Four walking tours, ranging from approximately one to three miles, make up a second, smaller book tucked into the cover of the first. Walking in the Paths of the Artists: A Guide to the Artists’ Homes shares Lewandowski’s knowledge and love of the neighborhoods once occupied by these early artists — tours she also leads in person (book through her website, www.salska. com). Beautifully reproduced images and artfully designed pages make the books themselves — available at Collected Works and through the author’s website — small works of art.
Food for thought and table Tasting New Mexico: Recipes Celebrating One Hundred Years of Distinctive Home Cooking by four-time James Beard Award-winning authors Cheryl and Bill Jamison is more than a cookbook. “The book ranges beyond just recipes …” said Cheryl Jamison, “to tell the story of the cuisine culturally and historically. …” New Mexico can trace its culinary heritage, they conclude, directly to early Puebloans who first lived and farmed here; to the Spanish and Mexican colonists who brought new fruits, vegetables and livestock to the region; and to the Anglo-American settlers and waves of immigrants who followed in the 19th and 20th centuries. The Jamisons gathered recipes and stories from home cooks across the state, searched past and present community cookbooks and interviewed chefs, restaurateurs and food producers. You’ll find everything from carne adovada to cabrito, albóndigas to watercress salad here. But it’s the stories the Jamisons tell of the farmers, ranchers, and others who helped create, and then preserve, New Mexico’s singular culinary and cultural history that make the book as suitable for the bedside table as for the kitchen counter. Tasting New Mexico is available in local bookstores, at the New Mexico History Museum gift shop and via Amazon.com.
What’s past is prologue The Plazas of New Mexico — a more than 300-page collection of essays, site drawings and hundreds of historic and contemporary photos of 75 of the plazas remaining in New Mexico — is more than a celebration of the state’s past: It also offers models for revitalizing existing urban sprawl and for creating more sustainable and enlivening public spaces. Edited by Chris Wilson of the University of New Mexico’s School of Architecture and Planning and architect Stefanos Polyzoides, founder of the Congress for a New Urbanism, the book looks at three design traditions more abundant in
New Mexico than in any other part of the U.S. — the Native American “center place” with kivas and terraced residences; the Spanish colonial village plaza with church and courtyard houses; and Anglo town squares accommodating courthouses and business blocks. The result, while scholarly, is also highly readable and should intrigue anyone who’s interested in livable cities or heritage tourism that is not at “the expense of local quality of life” — a topic Wilson previously explored in The Myth of Santa Fe. The Plazas of New Mexico is available at Collected Works Bookstore and Garcia Street Books and online at Amazon and Barnes & Noble.com. *Answers: A movida is a secret or under-thetable deal, usually made by a politician. Debbie Jaramillo was Santa Fe’s controversial mayor from 1994 to 1998. The Bosque Redondo, about 160 miles southeast of Santa Fe, is where 8,500 Navajo and 450 Mescalero Apaches were interned in the 1860s. Their forced march there is known as the Long Walk. — PAT WEST-BARKER
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T. HARMON PARKHURST, COURTESY PALACE OF THE GOVERNORS PHOTO ARCHIVES (NMHM/DCA), NEG. #118249
Santa Fe Fiesta parade, East San Francisco Street, Santa Fe, New Mexico, ca 1925-45
Letting our freak flags fly City’s dwellers embrace ‘different’ label BY EMILY DRABANSKI
Santa Fe ranks second in having America’s “Strangest People,” say Travel & Leisure magazine readers — lagging just a bit behind New Orleans. Those same readers rank Santa Fe No. 1 for “Cultural Getaway,” “Independent Boutiques,” “Home Décor and Design Stores” and “Peace and Quiet.”
While the merits of the individual rankings can be debated, the results do reflect some of the initiatives that led to Santa Fe being nicknamed the “City Different” not long after New Mexico became a state in 1912. Chris Wilson, J.B. Jackson Professor of Cultural Landscape Studies in the University of New Mexico School of Architecture and Planning, wrote extensively about that period in his groundbreaking book, The Myth of Santa Fe: Creating a Modern Regional Tradition. In that work, Wilson examines how cultural leaders in the years following statehood shaped both the look and image of the capital city — a campaign that ultimately led to the development of Santa Fe as an international tourism destination. He also adds sobering insight into the impact of the tourism boom and the proliferation of ethnic stereotypes that resulted in cultural strife and social displacement among the city’s Native American and Hispanic residents.
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“I think that the state’s centennial is a good time to reflect on the past and to look at the future,” Wilson said during a recent interview. In New Mexico’s Quest for Statehood, 1846-1912, historian Robert W. Larson detailed the political wrangling that came into play during New Mexico’s six-decade-struggle for statehood, such as Texas’ claim of northeastern New Mexico, the Civil War controversy over whether New Mexico would be a free state or slave state, and the maneuvers of various individuals who fought to keep New Mexico a territory for their own gain. One of the uglier recurring obstacles to statehood that Larson’s book recounts was a prejudice against Spanish-speaking people who were very different from the majority of Anglo pioneers settling the Western frontier. “There was a prejudice [against] Spanish speakers who were also Catholics,” Wilson said. “It was a different language, religion and — because of [the territory’s] ties to Mexico, there also were fears about the people’s allegiance. Up until statehood, the kind of American xenophobic take on New Mexico was strong, and it’s the one that local leaders had to fight against. And then, once statehood is achieved, Santa Fe in particular realizes that tourism is a way to turn the local economy around.”
Image control During this period, many Anglos — among them archaeologists and artists — came to Santa Fe to flee the straight-laced ways of the East and became quite enamored of
hundreds of years | cientos de años
JESSE NUSBAUM, COURTESY PALACE OF THE GOVERNORS PHOTO ARCHIVES (NMHM/DCA), NEG. #013029
JESSE NUSBAUM, COURTESY PALACE OF THE GOVERNORS PHOTO ARCHIVES (NMHM/DCA), NEG. #066658
Construction of new portal, Palace of the Governors, Santa Fe, New Mexico, 1913
Railroad depot, Santa Fe, New Mexico, ca 1912
both the Hispano residents and the Native peoples. “They really liked the more relaxed lifestyle that they found in Santa Fe,” Wilson said. Some of these newcomers had read the dispatches of Charles F. Lummis in the Los Angeles Times (circa 1884) as he crossed the deserts of the Southwest, extolling the virtues of the people and the landscape. “Though my conscience was Puritan, my whole imagination and sympathy and feeling were Latin,” Lummis wrote. Lummis would write five books and then serve as editor of The Land of Sunshine magazine (renamed Out West in 1902) from 1894 to 1909. These publications often presented a romanticized — and, by today's standards, somewhat stereotypical — version of the region’s people and scenic beauty. Adding to the area’s allure were the marketing campaigns of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad from the 1890s to the 1930s. Under the direction of William H. Simpson from 1900 to 1933, writers, artists and photographers were paid or given train tickets to help promote the AT&SF route in brochures, articles and advertisements. The artist Gerald Cassidy originally came to Albuquerque to recover from tuberculosis in 1890, moving to Santa Fe in 1912. His paintings of the landscape and Pueblo people reached a national audience because of the support of the railroad. Eanger Irving Couse, one of the founders of the Taos Society of Artists, had his paintings of Taos Pueblo people widely distributed, particularly on the railroad’s calendars.
buildings but wanted a unified style,” Wilson said. Board member Morley also objected to radical changes that would destroy “our most priceless possession, an individuality, which raises us above hundreds of other American cities.” Wilson notes that Santa Fe was not only the smallest community with a City Beautiful plan but also that it broke new ground by combining the standard emphasis on architectural homogeneity with local revival style based on a study of the city’s old architecture. “Architectural image became central to stimulating tourism and reversing economic decline,” Wilson said. The city planning board’s 1912 plan emphasized the promotional value of preserving adobe buildings and the long, low style of houses through tax incentives and regulation along the city’s oldest streets. Much of that look is still retained today in what is loosely termed “Santa Fe Style.” Within the next few years, Wilson said, the city and Museum of New Mexico began promoting Santa Fe as the City Different, distinguishing their efforts from the national City Beautiful movement.
Molding a city style When New Mexico became a state on January 6, 1912, Santa Fe — the state’s capital — was a city of about 5,000 people. Yet by that point, Wilson said, the city had seen about 30 years of economic decline. Arthur Seligman (then mayor of Santa Fe) appointed archaeologist Edgar Lee Hewitt, director of the Museum of New Mexico and School of American Archeology (later School of American Research), and Sylvanus Morley, archaeologist and museum staff member, to the city’s planning board in the spring of 1912. Harry H. Dorman, who ran a real estate company and insurance business and served as the secretary-treasurer of The Santa Fe New Mexican, headed the committee. Unable to hire a city planner, Dorman sent letters to leaders in large cities soliciting advice. Many of the answers reflected the era’s national City Beautiful Movement, which placed an emphasis on the beautification of parks and the building of stately museums, such as those developed for the 1898 Chicago Exhibition. It was an effort to limit the imprint of industrialism while encouraging homogeneity within cultural urban centers. Santa Fe’s city planning board developed a plan but could not afford to embrace the prevailing Beaux Arts classicism that favored enormous public buildings with towering pillars and ornate decoration. “They realized they could not afford marble for public
¡Viva la difference! Today, the City Different designation often includes a free-spirited sense of “anything goes” that also has its roots in the decades before and after statehood. “The attitude was almost ‘What happened in Santa Fe stayed in Santa Fe,’” Wilson said with a chuckle. “It was part of developing a new American lifestyle that definitely was more relaxed than the rigid ways back east. You had the influence of people like Lummis, whose writings were bringing in people from Southern California. And then Santa Fe had its ongoing development of its art colony. From about 1916 on, you had artists from Greenwich Village coming out on the train — often spending the entire summer in Santa Fe. And then more of those people began staying.” While Wilson has raised concerns about the consequences of the tourism boom, he’s optimistic about the future. Today the city has developed creative tourism initiatives that give visitors a more authentic experience. “I think the centennial is important,” he said. “We need to look back, but we also need to think about the future and sustainability of our communities.”
To learn more The Myth of Santa Fe: Creating a Modern Regional Tradition by Chris Wilson, The University of New Mexico Press, 1997 New Mexico’s Quest for Statehood, 1846-1912 by Robert W. Larson, The University of New Mexico Press, 1968
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cientos de años | hundreds of years
Signs of the times
New Mexico’s state symbols offer mini-history lessons State Vegetables | Chile, Beans
BY EMILY DRABANSKI
If chile is important enough to be central to the state question, it would be a safe bet the pepper also would be the state vegetable. But determining which vegetable deserved the designation created quite a heated debate back in 1965, until the Legislature decided that beans and chile were inseparable and designated both as state vegetables. The Hatch Chile Festival, in Southern New Mexico, celebrates the beloved pods every Labor Day weekend. On the very same weekend, Wagon Mound in northeastern New Mexico generally celebrates Wagon Mound Bean Day. In Santa Fe, expect fresh chile to be at its peak in early September — just in time to order steaming plates of both state vegetables at Fiesta de Santa Fe.
ILLUSTRATION BY WILLIAM ROTSAERT
Whether this is your first trip to the Land of Enchantment or your 10th, or you’ve lived here all your life, New Mexico’s centennial summer is the perfect time to learn more about some of our state’s official symbols.
State Aircraft | Hot Air Balloon With the popularity of the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, which officially took off in 1977, hot air balloons became prevalent, colorful additions to New Mexico’s turquoise skies. In March 2005, hot air balloons were designated the state aircraft. If you ever have the opportunity to float above Santa Fe in one of these, you’ll definitely know you’re not in Kansas anymore.
State Cookie | Bizcochito New Mexico was the first state to adopt an official cookie, and it chose the bizcochito in 1989. Anise and a bit of brandy give this sugar cookie a special zing and, while a number of recipes exist for this treat, locals swear it does not have authentic flavor unless it’s made with lard. Brought to Northern New Mexico by early Spanish settlers, bizcochitos are a favorite dessert at family celebrations, especially during winter holiday season.
State Bird | The Greater Roadrunner Beep! Beep! Yes, you can actually see that bird scooting across New Mexico’s highways — especially on the flatter terrain below 7,000 feet. You’ll see plenty of roadrunners downstate, but you can also often catch a glimpse of these fleet-footed birds on the southern edges of Santa Fe. The Legislature adopted the Greater Roadrunner as the state bird in March 1949. An interesting tidbit: The Warner Brothers’ cartoon Fast and Furry-ous, directed by the late Chuck Jones, featured the animated debut of both the Roadrunner and his nemesis Wile E. Coyote in September 1949. (Today, you can see other creations by Jones at Chuck Jones Gallery, 135 W. Palace Avenue.)
State Mammal | American Black Bear If you’re camping in the area, make sure your food is secured in a bear-proof place, such as the trunk of your car or suspended from a tree. Otherwise, you might encounter our state mammal, the American black bear, adopted in February 1963. One of the country’s most famous bears, Smokey Bear, was a cub that survived a fire downstate in New Mexico’s Lincoln County National Forest. Smokey Bear became a popular symbol of the U.S. Forest Service and the National Advertising Council in 1950. He’s buried in Smokey Bear State Park in Capitán, near Ruidoso.
State Necktie | Bolo Tie Men can leave their standard neckties at home when they come to Santa Fe. Whether you’re horseback riding or attending the Santa Fe Opera, you can just
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State Capitol | The Roundhouse slip on a bolo tie. (Women in the Southwest often get a hankerin’ to wear a bolo tie, too.) Often made with a sturdy braided leather cord, bolo ties are fastened with either silver conchos or turquoise, which is the state gem. Arizonans tend to call them bola ties, but the New Mexico Legislature clearly proclaimed the bolo the official state tie in 2007.
State Question | Red or Green? If you order an enchilada, don’t be surprised if your server asks, “Red or green?” — a question that refers to your choice of chile. The state Legislature made the question official in 1996 in recognition of the state’s most important cash crop. In New Mexico, chile generally refers to a sauce made from red or green chile peppers. If you see it spelled “chili” — usually on a chain restaurant’s menu — it’s likely to be a closer cousin to Texas-style chili, a less spicy combination of ground beef, beans and peppers. If, after being asked the state question, you can’t decide what you want, just give a popular local answer — “Christmas” — and your server will soon bring you an enchilada covered in both red and green.
The state can boast having both the newest and oldest state Capitol building. Folks affectionately call the newest Capitol “the Roundhouse.” Dedicated in 1966, it has a round center that has been modified with four spokes that evoke the shape of the Zia sun symbol, which can be seen emblazoned in red on the state flag. Art lovers should check out the diverse collection of contemporary art on display at The Roundhouse. The Palace of the Governors, facing the Santa Fe Plaza on Palace Avenue, is the oldest Capitol building in the United States. Today, the adobe structure, built in 1610, houses history exhibitions as an older component of the New Mexico History Museum.
There’s more where these came from… The New Mexico Secretary of State website — www.sos. state.nm.us/KidsCorner/StateSymbols.html — lists many more state symbols. There you can find everything from a recipe for those yummy bizcochitos to a sample of the state’s song. Youngsters might particularly like finding out about some of the more obscure symbols, such as our state fossil and state amphibian.
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cientos de años | hundreds of years
10 Landmark images
Telling New Mexico’s history through its art BY WOLF SCHNEIDER
New Mexico has a worldwide reputation as an art colony, what with Georgia O’Keeffe, Bruce Nauman, Agnes Sims, Fritz Scholder and Gerald Cassidy all calling it home at some point in their lives. It’s a place where the culturati came to paint Native Americans in the late 1800s and where even the image of the detonation of the first nuclear bomb can be considered “art.” So the show It’s About Time: 14,000 Years of Art in New Mexico, opening May 11 at the New Mexico Museum of Art for a two-year run, seems like a natural. Here, we trace the trajectory of New Mexico history through 10 of the 137 artworks in the exhibit.
3.
SANTA COLETA/ST. COLETTE circa 1780-1820s
BY PEDRO ANTONIO FRESQUIS
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The past is always present in New Mexico. With just 2.1 million residents in the fifth-largest state in the country (only Alaska, Texas, California, and Montana are geographically larger), New Mexico’s open country allows artifacts like arrowheads to be stumbled upon. This Clovis point dates back to prehistoric Paleo-Indian culture at the end of the last glacial age. Made of flint, agate or obsidian, the 3- to 4-inch long Clovis point was created by a human, most likely to hunt mammoths, said Joseph Traugott, curator of 20th century art at the New Mexico Museum of Art. What makes it art? “The extreme level of craft and the technology that is involved,” Traugott said. “After these objects were found in the context of the extinct animals, it raised a different understanding of how long humans have been living in New Mexico.”
MAKER UNKNOWN
CLOVIS POINT circa 13,650 to 12,800 years B.P.
MAKER UNKNOWN
GALLUP BLACK-ON-WHITE BOWL, CHETRO-KETL, CHACO CANYON, circa 1000-1125 C.E.
Pretty much everything about Chaco Canyon is shrouded in mystery. Located in northwestern New Mexico, Chaco is hard to get to even today, with miles of rough dirt road leading in. This national historical park contains possibly the most remarkable collection of Pueblo remains in all of the American Southwest. A pre-Columbian cultural and historical area, it was home to the Ancestral Puebloan people between A.D. 900 and 1150 (A.D. being the equivalent of C.E., or Common Era). Notable on this prehistoric pot is a complex design integrating painted positive shapes with unpainted negative areas.
THE NEW MEXICO MUSEUM OF ART 107 West Palace Avenue
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In the 1700s, Spanish colonial art began emerging from the villages of Northern New Mexico and southern Colorado as Hispano artists created devotional artworks like this, which portray saints. They frequently made retablos, painted on flat wooden panels, and bultos — three-dimensional carvings. The tradition continues today, with many santeros participating in July’s Spanish Market in Santa Fe.
4.
INTERIOR COURTYARD OF PUEBLO, SANTA CLARA, NM circa 1883
Phone: 505-476-5072 or visit
BY CHARLES CRAIG
www.nmartmuseum.org
Back in the 1880s, the conventional wisdom was that Native American cultures were going to disappear. While fierce wars were being fought between soldiers
art circle in New York that included photographer Alfred Stieglitz and painter Georgia O’Keeffe. At the invitation of Mabel Dodge Luhan, Salsbury and O’Keeffe famously traveled to Taos in 1929, with Salsbury teaching her friend O’Keeffe how to drive that summer. Both Salsbury, a folk artist, and O’Keeffe, a modernist painter, would later move here, immortalizing Northern New Mexico scenes and symbols such as these.
and Indians on the Great Plains, painter Charles Craig rushed to New Mexico to paint what he thought might become one of the last images of an Indian pueblo. “These were peaceful agricultural Indians and the image refutes the Native-as-savage stereotype of the times,” Curator Traugott said. Santa Clara Pueblo still exists 25 miles north of Santa Fe.
6.
BLACK-ON-MATTE JAR 1919-20
BY MARIA AND JULIAN MARTINEZ Possibly the most famous of American Indian potters, Maria Martinez of San Ildefonso Pueblo, which is 20 miles northwest of Santa Fe, became internationally known for her innovative black-on-black wares and reinvigorated traditional pottery making. She generally shaped her polished clay pots and then her husband Julian painted the matte designs on them.
9.
CHIMA ALTAR, BERTRAM’S CRUISE, 1992
BY LUIS TAPIA
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FIRST ATOMIC EXPLOSION at a distance of about five miles, Trinity Site, New Mexico July 16, 1945
A conceptual artwork imbued with contemporary social commentary, this polychrome carved-wood sculpture depicts the dashboard and bucket seats of an automobile, with the rear-view mirror presenting an image of death riding in a death cart. The steering wheel that is a crown of thorns references Spanish colonial symbolism. The piece reminds us our lifetimes are limited.
BY BERLYN B. BRIXNER
5.
CUI BONO? circa 1911
BY GERALD CASSIDY Painted just as New Mexico was on the cusp of statehood, this iconic figurative painting with the title “Cui Bono?” — Latin for “To Whose Advantage?” — asks what statehood’s impact will be and who will benefit from it. It depicts a Native American wrapped in a white cotton blanket wearing leggings of blue jean material, with Taos Pueblo in the background. The divided composition positions the Taos Pueblo of the past on the left and, on the right, the contemporary Indian. Painter Cassidy was a founding member of the Santa Fe Art Colony in the early 1900s. He died in 1934, after contracting lead poisoning while painting a mural for the Works Progress Administration.
A terrifying image, this photograph captures the detonation of the first nuclear weapon at the Trinity Site near Alamogordo, New Mexico. It documents what is perhaps the most significant human-caused event in the 14,000 years of human activity in New Mexico.
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SIEGE OF SANTA FE 2009
BY DIEGO ROMERO
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ANGUS DEI 1950
BY REBECCA SALSBURY (STRAND) JAMES
Diego Romero connects past and present in the complex narrative scenes of his contemporary ceramic vessels, like this terra cotta pot that revisits the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, when the Pueblo Indian people rose up against the governing Hispanos in Santa Fe. The battle is intentionally presented here as a cultural standoff. Comic books and pop culture influence Romero’s thoughtful conceptual style.
While married to photographer Paul Strand in the 1920s, Rebecca Salsbury became part of an avant-garde 2012 Bienvenidos 3 1
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Call 505.583.2233 or visit ojospa.com
32 201 2 Bienvenidos
hundreds of years | cientos de años
➲
Turn left at A-l-b-u-q-u-e-r-q-u-e BY KATE NELSON
What if Bugs Bunny really had taken that left turn at Alba-quoy-kee? Besides not getting lost, the wascally wabbit would have stolen New Mexico’s admittedly slim claim to Looney Tunes fame. Worse, the Saturday morning cartoon crowd might never have heard the name of a city so difficult to spell that not even the city itself gets it right. Besides Bugs’ oft-repeated left-turn punch line, a century of statehood has produced enough New Mexico trivia to keep Alex Trebek in Final Jeopardy answers for a good while to come. We’re not talking Diego de Vargas, Lew Wallace and Robert Oppenheimer. We’re talking little green men, Lucy’s best bud and TV’s favorite meth lab. Here’s a glimpse at just some of New Mexico’s contributions to American pop culture.
They came from outer space Roswell has its oft-dissed UFO incident and even built an International Museum and Research Center to (playfully) celebrate it. But the self-dubbed “Alien City” hardly has a monopoly on the woo-woo side of New Mexico. Near Dulce, the red cliffs of Archuleta Mesa have long been rumored to shield a secret underground facility of … of what?
Nefarious government defense programs? A layover spot for a superior species? In 2009, the History Channel brought its UFO Hunters program to New Mexico. Residents and other folks interviewed reported seeing UFOs as well as signs of cattle mutilation in the area, but hard evidence that Archuleta Mesa holds a portal to anything other than mountain lions remains elusive. Other UFO stories have hovered around Aztec and Socorro, but so far only Roswell can lay claim to a highly questionable blackand-white movie of a so-called alien autopsy.
‘R’ we there yet? Anyone who’s lived in Albuquerque knows the drill: Say the name of your city to a mail-order clerk or an out-of-state colleague, and you’ll surely be asked to spell it. So we do: A-l-b-u-q-u-e-r-q-u-e. Trouble is, that’s wrong. New Mexico’s biggest city was named for Alburquerque, a town in the Spanish province of Badajoz. How the already unwieldy name lost one of its R’s is a matter as ripe for conspiracy theorists as the probability of aliens in our midst. One popular version holds that an early postmaster or railway worker committed that most human of failings: a misspelling. Another version blames Zebulon Pike. The namesake of a big hill in Colorado moved into New Mexico when it was still a closed Spanish colony, built an armed stockade and hoisted the U.S. flag over it. Spanish soldiers promptly arrested him and carried him to authorities in Chihuahua, Mexico, stopping along the way for a meal with the priest of the San Felipe de Neri church in Alburquerque. Pike later drew a map of the trip and ID’d the Duke City as a one-R Albuquerque. Former Mayor Martin Chavez briefly tried to revive the extra R but, in the end, settled for making the city’s moniker a single Q.
gut-bomb-in-a-bag
Crunch time Would there be a Taco Bell today if Fabiola Cabeza de Baca hadn’t included hard-shell tacos in her 1949 cookbook, The Good Life: New Mexico Traditions and Food? Food historians credit that as the first reference to today’s Tex-Mex mainstay. As for Frito pie, one story, not surprisingly, holds that the gutbomb-in-a-bag was invented by the mother of Frito-Lay’s
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Color Specialists Men’s Haircutting & Waxing
founder. We prefer the origin story that pays homage to Teresa Hernández, who worked at the Woolworth’s lunch counter on the Santa Fe Plaza in the 1960s. The Five and Dime now occupying the former Woolworth’s site still serves Frito pie, which a 2006 MSNBC article on iconic American foods described as “trash food” with “wondrous charms.”
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MATT SAYL
Once they’ve achieved stardom, more than a few celebrities have set down roots in New Mexico. But another good-sized batch started out here. Jeff Bezos, the founder of Amazon. com was born in Albuquerque, which also nurtured future Doors frontman Jim Morrison while his father was stationed at Kirtland Air Force Base, and it served as a career stop for Vivian Vance (aka Ethel Bryan Cran ston Mertz in I Love Lucy). La Cueva High School in Albuquerque once counted actors Neil Patrick Harris and Freddie Prinze Jr. as students. Mike Judge, creator of Beavis and Butt-Head, sends his two dimwits to Highland High School, just like the one in Albuquerque. And if you did any clubbing in the Duke City in the 1990s, you got to see the start of a little band named The Shins. Roswell was home to Hall of Fame golfer Nancy Lopez, es Jeff Bridg actress Demi Moore and the late singersongwriter John Denver. Carlsbad claims NPR correspondent Linda Wertheimer. The name “Hilton” means first class around the world, but the founder of the hotel chain, Conrad Hilton, came from San Antonio, New Mexico. Fashion designer Tom Ford grew up in Santa Fe and still has a home here. Buddy Holly recorded some of his early hits at Norman Petty’s Clovis studio. Clovis was also the hometown of Hank Baskett, a onetime Lobo football star who’s now married to a onetime Playboy playmate with a reality TV show called Kendra.
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Ready for our close-up Moviemakers have turned to New Mexico as a backdrop for everything from the award-winning Crazy Heart to the fun-loving Beer for My Horses. But our most memorable turn in the spotlight has nothing to do with turquoise skies and breathtaking mountains. The TV show Breaking Bad stars Bryan Cranston as Walter White, a chemistry teacher with terminal lung cancer who decides to bank some money for his family by building a meth lab. The show stars Albuquerque’s seediest side — bedbug motels, drugged-up hookers and the desperate feel of empty pockets. Will Albuquerque survive a primetime reputation as the epitome of the meth life? Well, it bears noting that memories do fade. In 1974, Harper’s Magazine dubbed a certain Northern New Mexico community “Smack City,” and if you can name that town today, maybe you and Trebek should meet over a round of Final Jeopardy.
Only in New Mexico. Only at The Santa Fe Opera.
2012 SEASON June 29 - August 25
FIVE NEW PRODUCTIONS!
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the
SANTA FE
historic
railyard & guadalupe districts
36 201 2 Bienvenidos
historic
Minneapolis Institute of Arts MAR 3 – JUN 2, 2013 More Real? Art in the Age of Truthiness is presented by the Minneapolis Institute of Arts and SITE Santa Fe. The exhibition is organized by Elizabeth Armstrong, Curator of Contemporary Art, Minneapolis Institute of Arts.
IT’S GONNA BE A GREAT SUMMER IN THE RAILYARD!
More Real? Art in the Age of Truthiness is made possible by generous support from The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts. Additional support is provided by Étant donnés, the French-American Fund for Contemporary Art.
RAILYARD PARK SUMMER MOVIE SERIES Every other Friday Night at dusk • June 1 thru August 24 Produced by Heath Concerts
Image: Eva and Franco Mattes aka 0100101110101101.ORG, Catt (Fake Cattelan sculpture), 2010.This announcement is made possible in part by The City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers’ Tax.
RAILYARD PLAZA SUMMER CONCERT SERIES June 2: The BoDeans • June 6: Fun! AND MORE TO COME! • Produced by Heath Concerts
1606 Paseo de Peralta, Santa Fe, NM 87501 505.989.1199 | www.sitesantafe.org
BUCKAROO BARN DANCE & BBQ • June 16 / On the Plaza With The Paula Nelson Band • Produced by Buckaroo Ball MAKE MUSIC SANTA FE • June 21 / On the Plaza Produced by Santa Fean Magazine CURRENTS 2012 OUTDOOR VIDEO SHOW • June 22 & July 7 Produced by Parallel Studios & SFUAD / ON THE PLAZA
S TA R T I N G M AY 1 S T
SANTA FE PRIDE • June 23 / In the Park Produced by Human Rights Alliance
Every Tuesday & Saturday
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Jennifer Esperanza
SITE Santa Fe JUL 8, 2012 – JAN 6, 2013 Gala Opening | July 6 – 8
FOLK ART MARKET COMMUNITY CELEBRATION JULY 12 / IN THE PARK • Produced by IFAM
Picked fresh from local farms…straight to YOU!
BOYS & GIRLS CLUB FUN FAIR • September 1/ In the Park Produced by Boys & Girls Club of Santa Fe SANTA FE REPORTER AHA FESTIVAL • September 16 / On the Plaza Produced by After Hours Alliance
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SANTA FE RECOVERY DAY • September 22 / In the Park Produced by Santa Fe Recovery Center
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Wildlife Train: see our desert friends close-up! Humane Society Pet Adoption Train Fourth of July Fireworks Party! Train Robbery Trains: Hold on to valuables! Murder Mystery: you solve this one! Local Wine, Cheese and Beer Train Brunch at the Legal Tender Saloon Also available for Charters, Weddings and Parties
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38 2 012 Bienvenidos
Call for Reservations 505.989.8600
RAILYARD PARK
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PETER ALEXANDER SUBHANKAR BANERJEE UTA BARTH THOMAS JOSHUA COOPER GLORIA GRAHAM MORRIS LOUIS ROBERT MOSKOWITZ FRED SANDBACK KATE SHEPHERD IAIN STEWART JAMES TURRELL
28 APRIL–15 JULY 2012 Transparent presents painting, photography, sculpture and works on paper spanning over 50 years from the Lannan Collection. Each artwork embodies an aspect of the word transparent, from transmitting light so that what lies beyond is seen clearly, or being fine or sheer enough to be seen through, to work that is free from pretense or deceit, or that seems to allow the passage of x-ray or ultraviolet light.
309 Read Street, Santa Fe, NM 87501 Tel. 505 954 5149 Gallery Hours: Saturdays and Sundays from noon to 5pm (weekends only)
www.lannan.org Image: Uta Barth, Ground #78, 1997, color photograph on panel, 41 x 39 inches, Collection Lannan Foundation
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44 2012 Bienvenidos
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Engine in Fred Rael’s 1967 Impala show car, “Liquid Sunshine”
Carmelito Martinez in his shop
Elmo Sanchez with his 1950 Chevy DeLuxe
el in his Fred Ra y Impala hev 1964 C le tib conver
S R E D I R W O L
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Olverso Derrick
is 1951 n and h
GMC t
ruck
Eppie Martinez with Cindy Pacheco and Lisa Romo in his 1963 Chevy Impala
Robert Morales with his 1976 Pontiac Grand Prix
Eppie Martinez’s 1963 Chevy Impala in front of his shop
Right, Eppie Martinez inside the office of Ray’s Hydraulics
CHIMAYO ROAD KITTY LEAKEN
N I S I U R C
Los Guys’ early 1950s-era dump truck in Chimayó
E T R O N L E G
These elegant anachronisms of the road have been cruising the highways and dirt roads of Northern New Mexico for decades. They were once regarded as the inventions of miscreants and hardly worth a passing glance, but they have gradually assumed a more respectable reputation. Thanks to the diligent efforts of generations of aficionados, lowriders are coming into their own as a symbol of the Hispanic cultural identity of the region as evocative as homegrown chile, rural adobe architecture, and the Spanglish dialect. Lowriders ply the streets of many New Mexico towns, but the epicenter of lowrider culture in El Norte (Northern New Mexico) lies in the Española Valley, including outlying rural towns like Chimayó. Here, individuals and commercial garages make lowriders out of all kinds of vehicles, from classic old “bombs” (the large, rotund American cars from about 1930 to 1955) to fin-flaunting late ’50s Chevys, from sleek Impalas and El Caminos to Cadillacs. I’ve long admired lowriders for their beauty and workmanship, but I haven’t understood much about them or the people who cruise them. My search to find out more led me to Española’s lowrider impresario, Andres Valdez, who gave me a list of names and places to visit in the Española Valley.
Hopping in Chimayó I start with a trip to Chimayó, a place I know very well, and make my way to Ray’s Hydraulics, a small garage in the plaza of La Cuchilla. There I meet Epimenio Martinez, aka Eppie, who explains to me his fascination with customizing cars: “I grew up with car work, and I owe it all to my dad, Ray. When I was 12, he gave me my first car, that one right there,” he says, gesturing to a 1953 Chevy Bel Air in front of his shop, its hood propped open. “My dad let me have that car to fix up before I could even drive. I been working on cars ever since — and now I got all these people working with me, and we’re keeping pretty
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Interior, Carmelito’s ’58 Impala
Elmo Sanchez’s 1950 Chevy DeLuxe
Hydraulic pumps in Fred Rael’s 1967 Impala show car, “Liquid Sunshine”
busy,” Eppie says, pointing to the two-bay garage across the parking lot, bustling like a beehive with men amid vehicles in various states of reconstruction. A mural on the wall behind Eppie’s old Bel Air depicts one of Northern New Mexico’s most potent icons: the Santuario de Chimayó, a church just down the road that has long been revered as a holy site by people from all over the Southwest. It’s an apt juxtaposition, the lowrider and the mural of the church. “That’s part of who we are,” Eppie says as I admire the mural. “How could it not be? Look where we are, man — we’re in the holy land!” Eppie’s shop can handle just about any kind of car customizing, using his own crew or calling on talented workers and artists in the community to modify cars and paint them with air-brush art, much of it featuring religious motifs and imagery that express a strong affiliation with Hispanic culture. Eppie’s specialty, though, is installing hydraulic systems, so that vehicles can be raised up or down. Eppie relates to me how he and others in Chimayó became focused on this particular aspect of the lowrider craft. “It started out because we have rough dirt roads here in Chimayó, you know. So we wanted to bring our low riders to shows, but they’d get banged up on the bumps and ruts and rocks here, so we figured out ways to jack them up, take them to cruise in the shows, and then lower them again when we hit the roads here. From there we got crazier and crazier and built cars that jump and twist and do all kinds of things. “Guys from California started to come here because they made laws out there outlawing lowriders. We didn’t have no laws like that here. We could go as low or as high as we wanted.” Eppie and his father began to explore all the possibilities with hydraulics and they eventually pushed the limits further than anyone had before. As they
perfected their craft, they resolved to prove that they could compete with other car customizers. “I wanted to do something different, and to do it really big, so I took a ’95 Ranger pickup and made it into a hopper. We drove it to the Phoenix Super Show in 2005 and won first place.” That “hopper”— a vehicle equipped with hydraulic lifts that allow it to “hop” up and down, virtually on end—is what put Ray’s shop on the map. I see that its fame has only grown as Eppie shows me the dozens of trophies the shop has won over the years.
I find the passion in the air at Eppie’s equaled at Carmelito’s Muffler Shop, down the road four or five miles in La Puebla, halfway to Española. Carmelito Martinez, the proprietor of this highly successful garage, relates to me his story of becoming a professional mechanic and body worker. “All my life I’ve been working on cars,” Carmelito says, “and I’ve always loved the lowriders. I saw my first one when my uncle Calletano Martinez came home from working in California, in the ’40s. He had a lowrider, and I decided right there that I wanted one of those. My first car was a ’41 Chevy. I paid eighty bucks for it.” Carmelito’s tale jibes with the story told by historians, who identify lowriders as one manifestation of a tradition of customizing cars that began practically as soon as Henry Ford perfected the mass production of automobiles. The tinkering went in many directions, but some car-customizing enthusiasts focused on low-riding vehicles and began to cruise them “low and slow” down urban streets to show them off. Some believe the lowrider phenomenon started in Juárez, Mexico, and its sister city across the border, El Paso, Texas. Advocates of this idea trace the first lowrider
cars to the Pachuco subculture that emerged in those towns in the early 20th century. Others point to East LA as the place of origin. Wherever it started, it is clear that lowrider culture blossomed in Southern California when a burgeoning automobile industry provided an abundance of vehicles, new and used, and trained mechanics with the skills to modify them. Custom cars, including lowriders, emerged in the 1930s in LA. As people made wealthy in the motion picture industry and other businesses spent their discretionary money on custom cars, a new industry was born, transforming stock vehicles in manifold ways. World War II put a damper on the custom car craze, but it reignited in the postwar economic boom when an influx of workers flooded LA for the abundant jobs. Many of the immigrants were Mexicans and New Mexicans, who settled predominantly in East LA. Few among them had extra money for the luxury of buying a custom car, though; instead they found old cars and fixed them up using parts scavenged from junkyards. They developed a particular fondness for lowriders, and East LA became a hotbed of lowrider activity. Carmelito’s tio Calletano was part of this demographic, and he and many other New Mexicans brought their zeal home along with their cars when they came to visit kin in New Mexico. The practice of making lowriders found a niche in the Hispanic culture of Northern New Mexico as enthusiastic mechanics began to turn them out. New Mexicans proved to be passionate about and adept at their craft, perhaps because of a history of folk art and pageantry with deep roots in Hispanic New Mexico. “In those days, we made the cars low by heating the springs with a blow torch,” Carmelito explains. “We still do that sometimes, but now we have these air bags,” he says, grinning broadly as he flips a switch to make his white 1961 Impala sink to the ground with a loud hiss. A good piece of Carmelito’s business comes from
Carmelito’s granddaughter Vanessa Gonzales in a 1960 Impala
Larry Martinez’s Buick Regal with mural by Randy Martinez
Carmelito’s grandson Lloyd Gonzales in a 1951 Chevy truck
48 2012 Bienvenidos
Born in East LA
Larry Martinez’s Buick Regal with mural by Randy Martinez
Chris Martinez in his 1953 Cadillac
Carmelito’s 1955 Chevy BelAir
making lowriders for other people. “I used to just do my own stuff,” he says, “but about 1972 I started working for others. I’ve worked on so many cars, I can’t tell you, and I have about a dozen of my own here that I’ve kept.” Carmelito’s car collection is stashed in secure garages around his modest house in La Puebla, near the homes he and his wife grew up in. Like most Hispanics in Northern New Mexico, his roots go deep here, and just across the field from his sprawling shops and garages lies the large garden where his wife and he, along with her 85-year-old mother, grow chile peppers and other crops, just as the family has done for many generations. His son, Ricky, works with him in the business, and his daughters and grandchildren, who live next door, share his love of the cars. When I ask to see some of the cars out in the open, he directs his grandchildren, ages 12 and 14, to drive them out, and they do so, announcing proudly that they one day will own the cars they carefully maneuver into place for me to photograph. Beside the ’61 Impala they parade out a bright turquoise ’58 Impala, a bullet-gray 1951 Chevy truck, a twotone ’55 Chevy Bel Air, and a 1972 Chevy C10 pickup. Of course, not all lowrider enthusiasts run auto businesses. Most do it as a hobby at home, but they are no less passionate than the workers at the garages that specialize in making custom cars. In fact, it’s hard to draw a line between amateur devotees and professionals because many individuals who work out of their homes occasionally take on work for others, and the professional shops end up devoting a lot of time and energy to the owners’ personal lowrider projects — which often eats up the profit that the business side generates.
window and places the effigy so that his head hangs out, as if he’s cruising in the car. As Elmo backs out of the vehicle, I notice among his numerous tattoos an image of Elmo the Muppet on his shaved head, and I learn that the Sesame Street character is indeed Elmo’s namesake. The whimsical image of the Muppet completely deflates the stereotype of the shaved, tattooed man in baggy pants as a dangerous character. Bobby shows me his blue ’51 Chevy and a ’61 Chevy Impala, which he’s especially proud of because it was recently used in making a Hollywood movie, Blaze You Out. The moviemakers used several cars from Chimayó, including the Impala and some from Eppie’s shop.
I drive up N.M. 76 a few miles from Carmelito’s, admiring the views of the Santa Cruz Valley as it sweeps up through arid barrancas, or badlands, to the towering blue Sangre
de Cristos. I find my way up an obscure arroyo to another car customizing business in Chimayó. Bobby Chacón and his partners run this operation from the yard beside his double-wide trailer in Chimayó, a lot filled with a crazy assortment of old vehicles — the raw material for the polished products that will someday emerge. As I enter, I pass a 1950s-era dump truck with “Los Guys” painted on the door. I’ve heard of Los Guys but I’ve never known who they are. I’m about to find out. As I pull up to the trailer, Bobby and his cousin Chris Martinez come out to greet me. Then a shiny black 1950 Chevy bomb rumbles into the yard and Elmo Sánchez, from Velarde, emerges. The three introduce themselves and name the others who make up Los Guys, but before we can start to talk about their famous bombs, parked all around us, another car pulls up and a dignified, older Hispanic woman gets out and announces to me, “I’m the grandma, Bobby’s mom,” and hurries in to the home. Bobby explains that he has a new baby, only two days old, and he and the other Guys follow his mother inside to see the infant. “I’ll be right back,” Bobby apologizes; family has a high priority, even among the most fanatic lowrider creators. When Los Guys come back from the trailer, it’s all about cars again. Los Guys’ specialty is installing air bags that, like Eppie’s hydraulic systems, raise and lower cars. But as far as their own creations go, Los Guys are known for their bombs, and they roll out a few to show me. First Chris glides by in his dazzling 1953 Cadillac, painted a rich maroon color and restored meticulously. It gleams in the sun like a time capsule from a bygone era, as if it just rolled off the lot to the cool clinking of change in an LA high roller’s pocket. Next Elmo fires up his ’50 Chevy, a dark black beauty. He climbs out of the behemoth, opens the back door, and extracts a life-size Elmo doll. He rolls down the car
Inspired by the lowrider creations at Los Guys’ place, I resolve to visit one more enthusiast that I’ve heard of, Fred Rael, in Española. It’s only a few miles and a cruise through the old Santa Cruz plaza to get to Fred’s place, recognizable by the two large garages and the long, enclosed trailer he uses to haul cars to shows. As soon as I arrive at Fred’s, he asks if I’d like to go out on a cruise, and before long I find myself seated in a ’64 Chevy Impala convertible, floating through the tree-lined thoroughfares of Fairview with the deep bass from his massive car stereo resounding in my ears. Fred flips a switch on a console to raise the car a bit when we cross speed bumps, then lowers it again, effortlessly, when we hit smooth pavement. Fred has a passion for car shows and has been working hard on another Impala back home, in the trailer. The one we’re riding in is his “cruiser,” and he explains that it’s not nearly as fancy as his show car. I’m impressed nevertheless with the fine paint job, including the exquisite pinstriping, of our humble vehicle. We stop in front of the Santa Cruz church, built in the 1730s, one
Jody Garduño with his ‘63 Chevy Impala
Fred Rael with his son Lico
Lico Rael in his lowrider at the Española Plaza.
Los Guys and their bombs
Passing on the passion
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the most impressive of the colonial churches remaining in New Mexico. Fred parks in front of the main gate to the church courtyard and we talk cars as Saturday morning traffic passes by, every other driver giving us a nod and a toot on the horn. Fred started working on cars in the late 1970s. He has shown cars since he built his first show car, a 1973 Super Beetle. He, like all the other lowrider buffs I’ve met, is determined, not only to promote his own creations, but also to foster a positive image of lowrider culture. He helped found the Prestigious car club, based in Española, in 1993, and he’s won in numerous competitions, Low riders will take to the street in force on Saturday, including, most recently, August 4, in Española for the Mainstreet Showdown, first place at a hot rod the biggest car show in Northern New Mexico in several years. The event, sponsored by Cultural show in Phoenix. Promotions, an Española-based car club, will also It isn’t until we get include a hopping contest and a concert. “We’re back to Fred’s and he hoping to get several hundred cars in the show,” says opens up the trailer Andres Valdez, a co-founder of Cultural Promotions. to show me his other “It will be a great opportunity to come out and see the best of the best of the lowriders, muscle cars, Impala that I understand hot rods and jumpers.” The show begins at 11 a.m. on the difference between Española’s Oñate Street, near the Española Plaza, and a street car, like the one runs all afternoon. we’ve been riding in, and a show car. Even in the darkness of the trailer, the chrome on Fred’s masterpiece is dazzling—and there’s lots of it, even on the undercarriage and the engine. Every square inch of the car is finely detailed with perfection, from upholstery to headlights to window glass. As part of his efforts to get and keep young people involved with the lowrider craft, Fred plans to be part of a “model car and lowrider bike show” that Eppie, Andres Valdez and others are planning in Española in April. They’re also gearing up for the Mainstreet Showdown de Española, a big car show in August that will feature bombas (bombs), trokitas (customized small trucks), and the ever-popular Impalas and other lowriders. They expect hundreds of cars at the event, and hope that it will attract and inspire a new generation to build and show lowriders. “A lot of the kids these days, they just like to get a little car and make it into a tuner,” Fred explains, referring to cars whose main feature is a massive stereo system. “But when they see these cars line up, and they meet these guys and see how they love their cars—we’re just hoping it inspires them to get into it, too.” Listening to Fred talk about the youth event, I reflect on the industriousness, inventiveness, and creativity I’ve seen among the lowrider devotees I’ve met. If even a little bit of their passion wears off, we’re sure to see lowriders cruising the streets of Northern New Mexico for years to come. It’s a sight I will welcome, not only because it will help perpetuate this craft that has become a tradition, but because it will inspire in young people the work ethic and standard of excellence that has gone into the cars I’ve seen today. That’s a good thing for all New Mexicans.
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To learn more about the lowrider culture Low ’n Slow: Lowriding in New Mexico by Jack Parsons, Carmella Padilla and Juan Estevan Arellano, Museum of New Mexico Press, 2005 (paperback edition) Lowriders in Chicano Culture: From Low to Slow to Show by Charles M. Tatum, Greenwood, 2011
ME MO R MA IAL D Y 2 AY 6-2 W 7, 2 EEK 012 EN D
FROM CLASSIC TO CONTEMPORARY, FROM EMERGING TO ESTABLISHED
MUSEUM-QUALITY NATIVE AMERICAN ART SHOW Photos by Carol Franco
DG House
Mona Laughing
© Jennifer Esperanza
Charlene Holy Bear
Tony Abeyta
May 26-27, 2012 Santa Fe Convention Center
• Over 200 of the best Native American artists • Benefits the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture Diane and Peter Doniger
© Jennifer Esperanza
Jody Naranjo
Roxanne Swentzell
• www.nativetreasures.org
2012 Featured Artist Tony Abeyta JOIN US AT “BREAKFAST WITH TONY” Wednesday May 23, 9 am
Museum Hill Café/ Museum of Indian Arts & Culture Tickets $40 Available at www.ticketssantafe.org
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WWW.INSIGHTFOTO.COM
The Santa Fe Desert Chorale
Susan Graham
Joseph Illick, Santa Fe Concert Association director
The sounds of music
Opera to choral music, chamber music to recitals, dance to jazz, there are treats for every taste A Santa Fe summer is a performing arts wonder. Both locals and visitors have several major milestones to look forward to in 2012. The Santa Fe Desert Chorale, first heard in 1983, celebrates its 30th season. The Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival, which began here in 1973, marks its 40th summer. The Santa Fe Opera presents five new productions, three of them company premieres. Several collaborations with the opera are set as well. Desert Chorale singers will join the SFO forces in Karol Szymanowski’s massive, mystical King Roger. The Santa Fe Concert Association presents three one-hour voice recitals by Santa Fe Opera stars, while the Chamber Music Festival features several SFO singers in concert. In other performances, SFCA presents two evenings of dance by soloists and principals of the New York City Ballet; Aspen Santa Fe Ballet brings its probing artistry back to its second home; and the New Mexico Jazz Festival again explores “America’s music.” And of course, behind the public concerts are the people who cast the artistic spells for each group — music directors, managers and performers.
Way-better-than-OK Chorale The Desert Chorale “is celebrating all kinds of music for the 30th anniversary,” said music director Joshua Habermann. “We have four different programs, two with all … [24] singers and two with smaller ensembles, and one with an additional group of singers.” The first repertoire, From Bach to the Beatles (opens July 20), will feature works ranging from Bach’s first motet for a capella chorus to excerpts from a setting of the Russian Orthodox Vespers by Finnish composer Einojuhani Rautavaara. That ties in with the final concert of the season, a performance of Sergei Rachmaninoff’s
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powerful All-Night Vespers, set for Aug. 16. For that, an extra contingent of singers will be brought in to supplement the chorale’s regular members. The other repertoires, each with 12 singers, cover a great deal of ground. Celebrating the Centenary, which opens July 28 and salutes New Mexico’s 100 years of statehood, features three pieces by composers who embody the state’s ethnic diversity: Native American (Jerod Impichchaachaaha’ Tate), Hispanic (Christian Grases) and Anglo (Robert Kier). Another, Dancing the Mystery, deals exclusively with Sufi poetry, especially that of Rumi. It opens July 24. Santa Fean and opera star Patricia Racette will give a benefit concert August 9 for SFDC that shows her jazz roots. “I feel really good about attracting audiences with this repertoire,” the Desert Chorale’s Habermann said. “We’ve definitely had an uptick in quality of singers over the last years, and it’s a great honor to be asked by the opera to be in King Roger.” (The Chorale also took the Santa Fe Opera stage in 1998 in Ingvar Lindholm’s A Dream Play.)
‘Pretty yummy stuff’ For SFO general director Charles MacKay, the 2012 season is a perfect hand of artistic cards. “I love the fact we have four of the biggest names in opera: Puccini, Bizet, Rossini, and Richard Strauss,” he said. “Then there’s the wild card of King Roger. It’s a beautiful piece — an extraordinary work with a very big chorus and orchestra. I’m so happy about the Desert Chorale joining us.” The opera’s 2012 opening night (June 29) is splashy, with Giacomo Puccini’s Tosca mounted for the first time since 1984. Georges Bizet’s The Pearl Fishers, famous for the tenor-baritone duet “Au fond du temple saint,” receives its Santa Fe premiere the following night, June 30. Rossini’s big-themed Maometto II (opens July 14), the Szymanowski (opens July 21), and Richard Strauss’
Arabella (opens July 28) round out the season. As always, the singers will cover the waterfront from the apprentice artists to international newcomers and major stars. “It’s an important part of a company’s mission to showcase emerging artists on the international scene and, at the same time, to showcase American artists who are showing great promise and also feature established artists,” MacKay explained. “We create an eclectic mix of talent. “It’s exciting when we have an opportunity to present an artist doing a role for the first time in the U.S.” he added, instancing Thomas Hampson. The baritone sang Malatesta in Don Pasquale for SFO in 1983 and has gone on to become a world-famous operatic personality. His Scarpia in Tosca marks the first time he has sung that villainous role in the U.S. MacKay described Maometto II as “a pivotal work in the bel canto repertoire,” written when Rossini was 28; SFO is using a new, critical edition of the problematic, multi-version piece. As for Arabella, “I think there are two things that people have said to me since I returned,” he said. “ ‘When are we going to have some more Strauss?’ is one. And ‘Please, please, please, can the operas be any earlier?’ This summer everything is moved back, a half hour earlier, to 8:30 or 8 p.m.” In addition to the mainstage productions, MacKay pointed out that the popular Apprentice Artists concerts will return and that there will be a special gala on August 4. The host is world-famous mezzo-soprano Susan Graham, a frequent Santa Fe visitor. “It’s going to be absolutely spectacular; we’re having such fun putting the program together,” he said. “Susan is plotting and planning. It’s going to be like a fantasy night of what opera singers would like to do if they could just have a good time. Basically, it’s a concert with orchestra, with a lot of serious music on the program from Mozart
colors | colores
Charles MacKay, general director of the Santa Fe Opera
Patricia Racette
Alan Gilbert
to Bernstein. But other things, too. It’s going to be pretty yummy stuff.”
premieres by David Del Tredici and Aaron Jay Kernis; a tribute to the late composer Peter Lieberson; and the return of conductor-violinist Alan Gilbert, former SFO music director and now head of the New York Philharmonic, as artist in residence. CMF artistic director Marc Neikrug has assembled a long list of fine performers to take on the enterprising list of repertoire. Some will arrive here as members of a regular ensemble, such as string quartets. Others will come singly, only to merge with other artists, through intensive rehearsals, to become momentary families in a musical clan. “The highlights of our 40th anniversary season are the Sunday concerts and the always popular noon series in the historic St. Francis auditorium,” Neikrug said. “Each program is particularly fashioned to appeal to music lovers of all genres. Concertgoers will also hear a wide variety of the stellar artists performing at the festival,” including violinists Alan Gilbert and Ida Kavafian, pianists Kirill Gerstein and Jon Kimura Parker, cellist Gary Hoffman, and the Orion and Miro string quartets. CMF has only had three artistic directors in 40 years: Alicia Schachter from the 1973 founding through 1991; Heiichiro Ohyama from 1992 to 1997; and Neikrug from 1998 to the present. Even more powerful than the players, however, is the actual repertoire. Talk about people who make things happen: living or dead, CMF’s composers are splendid creators: from J.S. Bach, Samuel Barber, Béla Bartók, Amy Beach and Alban Berg to Oliver Knussen, Lieberson, Sergei Prokofiev, Franz Schubert and Arnold Schoenberg. And one can observe the interaction between the masters’ legacy on the printed page and those interpreting them through daily open rehearsals — a Chamber Music Festival anchor project since the early 1980s.
Hendricks July 28, both in the Lensic. In 2011, 90-yearold Mose Allison gave a free concert on the Santa Fe Plaza — so plan on some surprises when festival performers are in town.
Concert association returns with summer program Besides its collaboration with the Chorale, the opera has sanctioned Santa Fe Concert Association presenting three one-hour vocal recitals by leading opera artists. This is SFCA’s second-year foray into summer programming, which began in 2011 with other recitals by SFO heavyweight artists Daniel Okulitch, Eric Owens and Isabel Leonard. “These will all be one-hour concerts without intermission on Sunday afternoons at 4 p.m.,” said SFCA director Joseph Illick. “They’ll be at the Scottish Rite Center and followed by meet-the-artist receptions with refreshments in their lovely courtyard.” Sopranos Nicole Cabell and Leah Crocetto will be the first two artists featured, on July 22 and 29, respectively. Cabell will sing a concert of music by American composer Ricky Ian Gordon, who will accompany her. Crocetto will be accompanied by Illick, as will bass-baritone Luca Pisaroni on August 5. In between the three recitals, SFCA presents two evenings of dance featuring principals and soloists of New York City Ballet — including choreographer and dancer Daniel Ulbricht, who put together a similar ensemble that took the boards for SFCA this past season. “We’re bringing them July 25 and 26,” Illick noted. “Daniel said that’s when he can bring the best dancers.” In other summer dance, Aspen Santa Fe Ballet returns to Santa Fe July 13 and 14 with two mountings of a new work by Alejandro Cerrudo of Hubbard Street Dance Chicago, Jiri Kylian’s Sechs Tanzes and Norbert De La Cruz III’s Square None. Hong Kong Ballet takes the boards as an ASFB guest on July 31.
Chamber music milestone With 40 years under its belt, the Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival has planned a four-decade anniversary full of highlights. These include world premiere commissions by Helen Grime and Magnus Lindberg; co-commission
Other jazz The New Mexico Jazz Festival offers another collaborative project this summer — a three-way between Outpost Performance Space, Lensic Performing Arts Center and the Santa Fe Jazz Foundation. The seventh season Santa Fe performances include Dianne Reeves and Sheila Jordon on July 2 and Kurt Elling and Jon
CLICK IT FOR TICKETS Aspen Santa Fe Ballet July 13-September 1 www.aspensantafeballet.com Tickets Santa Fe, 505-988-1234
Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival July 15-August 20 www.santafechambermusic.org Tickets Santa Fe, 505-988-1234
Santa Fe Desert Chorale July 20-August 18 www.desertchorale.org Tickets Santa Fe, 505-988-1234
Santa Fe Concert Association July 22-August 5 www.santafeconcerts.org Tickets Santa Fe, 505-988-1234
Santa Fe Jazz Festival July 13-20 www.outpostspace.org Tickets Santa Fe, 505-988-1234
Santa Fe Opera June 29-August 25 www.santafeopera.org 505-986-5900 Venues include Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, St. Francis Auditorium in the New Mexico Museum of Art, Lensic Performing Arts Center, Santa Fe Opera, Loretto Chapel, Cristo Rey Church, Scottish Rite Center and New Mexico History Museum. See websites for details.
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54 2012 Bienvenidos
Going to the dogs
AMIRAN WHITE
The Frank Ortiz Dog Park is the most popular off-leash open space in Santa Fe. BY BEN SWAN
There’s no doubt that Santa Fe has gone to the dogs. Telltale signs of pampered pooches abound throughout the City Different, from the ubiquitous water dishes in front of many downtown stores to pet-friendly hotels and restaurants that boast special menus for their four-legged guests. It’s hard to keep track of the number of specialty stores and businesses that cater to canines. There are at least four pet boutiques, a bakery that caters to dogs, a handful of obedience schools, several doggie day-care businesses, canine masseuses and stylists, dog acupuncturists and countless bowls of dog biscuits at stores, banks and drivethrough windows just waiting for a chance to satisfy Fido’s hunger pains. And last year, when Gov. Susana Martinez — an avid canine lover — signed legislation that allowed dogs to accompany their owners to restaurant patios throughout the state, many animal-welfare advocates breathed a
collective sigh of relief. “We’re finally civilized,” said Catherine JoyceColl, one of several ardent supporters of the so-called “dogs-on-patio” legislation, at a victory celebration last summer at Zia Diner on Guadalupe Street. Joyce-Coll had worried that the city was turning against canines and their companions, so she and Linda Kastner enlisted the help of state Sen. Peter Wirth, Santa Fe, to craft the patio-pups legislation. Fat chance. While many restaurants had quietly accepted dogs as patrons — Albuquerque has long had its own ordinance allowing dogs in eateries — many restaurants quickly embraced the concept. Zia Diner chef Peter Walsh created special dog biscuits to celebrate the legislation’s passing and said the restaurant plans to have treats and water available at all times for canine guests. “We love dogs,” Walsh said, adding that he was happy to create a canine menu. “It makes them feel special when they come in. In all the years that we’ve been permitting it, we’ve never had any trouble.” Those who don’t enjoy sharing their space with dogs can easily eat inside the restaurant, whether it’s his restaurant or any other, Walsh said. Canines are still confined to outdoor spaces in eateries, but more and more
other kinds of businesses are encouraging customers to bring along their pets while they shop. Naturally, with so many places welcoming dogs in the city, it’s nice to know that when dogs need to stretch their legs, there are plenty of open spaces for them to explore. While many public spaces allow dogs — a quick turn around the Plaza makes that abundantly clear — the city still requires all dogs to be on leashes unless they are romping in a designated dog park. Two relatively new dog parks include the Villa Linda Park, 4350 Rodeo Road, which is open to all dogs, and the small-dog park at the Salvador Perez Park, 601 Alta Vista Street. A city official said dog-walkers should check the rules and regulations at the parks to make sure whether leashes are required or not. The city’s premier off-leash dog-meeting spot, the Frank Ortiz Dog Park, in the Solano neighborhood, is often viewed as a dog’s idea of heaven, with huge open spaces for catching balls and Frisbees, meandering trails, piñon and juniper trees, and lots of opportunities to socialize. Early mornings and evenings are the prime times for people and canines to get acquainted or catch up on the day’s activities. The awe-inspiring vistas are a plus for animal guardians.
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“I love the open space,” said Jason Mitchell, toting his children, Lily Claire and Gabriel, up near the “King of the Hill” bench one Sunday evening. “And the sunsets are gorgeous.” The family, which includes mom Helena, makes regular visits to the park to exercise its young yellow Labrador, Jack. The dog loves to interact with other canines, but the Mitchell children also love to be a part of the pack. New and longtime residents often find themselves at the park, sharing canine-training tips or stories of their lives in Santa Fe. Visitors are always welcome — with or without canines. Sylvia Sieland started visiting the park with her two beagles shortly after she moved to the city. While the park is vital for canine socialization, Sieland said the human interaction is equally important. It’s a place where people can get to know their community. “This is one of the ways I’ve networked,” Sieland said. “Tourists love to come here in the summer. It’s hot, but once that sun goes down, it’s like an air conditioner has been turned on.” The park, which was once the site of the city’s landfill, has improved tremendously over the years. Thanks to the voter-approved bond for parks and open spaces, the area now has several shade structures, access to water, trees, benches and new trails for the disabled. At least twice a year, dedicated volunteers gather to clean up the park. It’s an ongoing effort coordinated by Friends of the Dog Park, the Department of Parks and Recreation, and Keep Santa Fe Beautiful. Pamela Geyer, who, along with Jane Tokunaga, organizes the loose-knit group of park users, says the seasonal cleanup efforts help raise consciousness for the hundreds of people who enjoy the park. Daily visitors to the park easily reach 400 humans and their canines. As with many community meeting places, dog-park users have put their mark on their beloved slice of paradise. In summer, tables, chairs, water and bowls spring up under shady spots. In the winter, trees sprout bright ribbons, ornaments, birdseed bells, toys and dog treats. Gathering spots often memorialize dogs or dogpark users who have moved on. It’s a place where children learn responsible humananimal interactions, and notices of services (such as dogsitting), meetings and lost-and-found pets are scattered around the park. For the most part, people and dogs just want to get along — an attitude that reflects the spirit of Santa Fe. Geyer calls the park a place where “the love of companion animals, our appreciation of the fantastic resource we have in the dog park, and sharing the exquisite beauty of the space create bonds that surmount differences of politics, economics or culture and can even smooth over the many disparate personalities that converge here.” One drawback of the off-leash park, however, is the lack of an enclosing fence. To be safe there, dogs should be under complete voice control and be able to obey their owners’ commands to “come.” The Santa Fe Animal Shelter & Humane Society’s fenced-in, off-leash dog parks are another alternative. The private nonprofit that maintains the parks has one large, enclosed community dog park for canines of all sizes and another fenced-in park for small dogs. There are also several fenced-in areas for dogs that might not
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Santa Fe city parks Santa Fe parks and plazas are open to the public between 6 a.m. and 10 p.m. daily, except when organized activities are scheduled by approval of city officials. Unless designated as an official dog park, all dogs must be on a secure leash. • Railyard Park and Plaza along Cerrillos Road between Guadalupe and Alarid streets; the plaza is in the heart of the Railyard at the Railyard Water Tower, along the rail corridor and Chile Line Lane, north of Paseo de Peralta • Fort Marcy Ballpark near Murales and Bishop’s Lodge Road • Entrada Park at the intersection of Don Diego Avenue, Guadalupe Street and Cerrillos Road • Frank S. Ortiz Dog Park The city’s official offleash dog park, 160 Camino de las Crucitas • Martin Luther King Jr. Park near Camino Carlos Rey, Calle Serena and Rodeo Road • Santa Fe Plaza in the heart of downtown Santa Fe, it is framed by Lincoln and Palace avenues, San Francisco Street and Old Santa Fe Trail • Franklin E. Miles Park on Camino Carlos Rey and Siringo Road • Salvador Perez Park 601 Alta Vista Street • Federal Park next to the U.S. District Court on Federal Place • Ashbaugh Park 1703 Cerrillos Road, behind Fire Station No. 3 • Amelia White Park 981 Old Santa Fe Trail • Alto/Bicentennial Park 1043 Alto Street
NATALIE GUILLÉN
Cody Burch with her dog Maddie, right, and friend Jake, at the Frank Ortiz Dog Park.
Canine al fresco The following restaurants with patios have indicated they are canine-welcoming. It’s always a good idea to call ahead to make sure there have been no changes in restaurant policy. Remember: Well-behaved dogs are welcome on restaurant patios, but only service dogs are allowed inside restaurants. Aztec Street Cafe 317 Aztec St., 820-0025 Backroad Pizza 1807 Second St., No. 1, 955-9055 The Burrito Company 111 Washington Ave., 982-4453 C. G. Higgins Artisan Chocolates & Chuck’s Nuts 847 Ninita St., 820-1315 Café Café 500 Sandoval St., 466-1391 Counter Culture 930 Baca St., No. 1, 995-1105
• Pueblos del Sol Park Nizhoni Drive and Governor Miles Road
Cowgirl BBQ 319 S. Guadalupe St., 982-2562
• Torreon Park 1515 West Alameda Street
Dish N Spoon 616 Canyon Road, 983-7676
• Gregory Lopez Park San Felipe Road and Hano Road
Downtown Subscription 376 Garcia St., 983-3085
• Ragle Park located on Yucca and Zia streets
El Farol Restaurant 808 Canyon Road, 983-9912
• Herb Martinez Park on Camino Carlos Rey
El Tesoro Café 500 Montezuma Ave., Ste. 104, 988-3886
• Las Acequias Park on Calle Atajo • Monica Lucero Park on Avenida de las Campanas
La Casa Sena 125 E. Palace Ave., 988-9232 La Choza 905 Alarid St., 982-0909
• Frenchy’s Field near the intersection of Osage Avenue and Agua Fria Street
Los Cuates New Mexican Restaurant at The Lodge 750 N. St. Francis Drive, 992-5800
• Patrick Smith Park 1001 Canyon Road
Pink Adobe and Dragon Room Bar 406 Old Santa Fe Trail, 983-7712
Santa Fe Animal Shelter Dog Parks 100 Caja del Rio Road. Four enclosed dog parks: one large park for dogs of all sizes, one for small dogs and two individual parks. Operated by the Santa Fe Animal Shelter & Humane Society.
Pranzo 540 Montezuma Ave., 984-2645 Restaurant Martin 526 Galisteo St., 820-0919 Santa Fe Baking Company 504 W. Cordova Road, 988-4292 Tabla de los Santos Hotel St. Francis, 210 Don Gaspar St., 983-5700
be comfortable in a social environment. The parks boast access to water, shade stations, benches, dog-waste bags and waste containers. All visitors to the area’s dog parks should be aware that cactus abounds, and snakes are often present. People are urged to keep a close eye on their dogs and to keep a pair of tweezers handy in case a canine stumbles upon a prickly cholla.
Tia’s Cocina, Hotel Chimayó de Santa Fe 125 Washington Ave., 988-4900 Tomme 229 Galisteo St., 820-2253 Tune Up Café 1115 Hickox St., 983-7060 Vinaigrette 709 Don Cubero Alley, 820-9205 Zia Diner 326 S. Guadalupe St., 988-7008
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58 201 2 Bienvenidos
colors | colores
Life is short, art long — wear comfortable shoes BY BETH SURDUT
Art extends an invitation to walk in, lose your edges, and shimmer in its beauty. Art makes a socio-political statement. Art makes you wonder. Art makes you wonder what the bleep the message is supposed to be. Art matches the sofa. (Sigh) Art tells a story. Art prompts a story. Art is interactive.
You’ve arrived in Santa Fe, a city so steeped in art that you need a map, a compass, a plan and stamina. One way to avoid sensory overload is to take a Zen approach. Go slowly. Pay attention. Take small bites. Good luck with that. Here is an admittedly incomplete menu of suggestions on ways to experience the art districts that draw people from around the globe. Most of the galleries mentioned are either new or literally and figuratively off the main path. Art may stimulate the mind and feed the soul — but the body also needs fuel. Fortunately, a number of restaurants are within or very near each of the major arts districts.
OPTION NO. 1 CANYON ROAD LESS TRAVELED Welcome to the all-you-can-eat banquet of more than 100 galleries, studios and boutiques on the main street and lanes of the historic Canyon Road arts district. Copious choices line the half-mile-long hill, but turning off the main drag into an alley colored by light and shadows offers the illicit pleasure of a hidden treasure hunt. Any place is the right place to start. At the bottom corner of Canyon Road, at Paseo de Peralta, Hunter Kirkland Gallery tucks in with other contemporary offerings. Owner Nancy Hunter has been in the art business for 35 years. “My relationship with my artists is much like a marriage,” she said, and like the elements of a good relationship, she looks for art that can “soothe, stimulate, excite and inspire.” Close by and across the street, the spacious enclave at 225 offers parking for a selection of galleries, outdoor sculpture settings, clothing and home accessories stores. Not far up Canyon Road to the left, intimate galleries dot little Delgado Street. Beginning at the 600 block, the elegant Mark Sublette Medicine Man Gallery (with parking!) and sculpture garden sits amid private homes. The beautiful, sun-washed compound was developed by artist Agnes Sims in the 1940s. According to gallery director Michael Ettema, Sims was prolific and multitalented and encouraged other artists by hosting performances and readings on the patio. In Gypsy Alley (700 block), the connected adobe buildings of the Chiaroscuro Gallery span centuries, melding traditional Santa Fe style with architecture as open and contemporary as the art exhibited. “I like being off the main drag. People seek us out,” said gallery director John Addison. Across Canyon Road, the signs for The Compound Restaurant are clear, but it takes some hunting to find Bellas Artes gallery. Follow the signs to The Compound to the lone gallery on this side road where paper, porcelain and textile extend common definitions to become museum-quality objects. Between the 600 and 700 block, down an unpaved alley on the right, Canyon Alley offers a mixture of styles and independence, including the outsider art of Kelly Moore. Strolling down the gravel and dirt lane past Nordwall Art and newly ensconced David Rothermel, a seeker might find painter/wordsmith Moore and photographer Kate Livengood (say that aloud) — or not. There are two signs at their adobe at the end of the road: OPEN and another more telling of why artists come to New Mexico. There was a time when visitors were more likely to meet artists in their studios rather
KITTY LEAKEN
A view of Canyon Road
Other pockets of wonder exist Galleries appear on all the streets that border and extend outward from the Plaza, including second-floor show spaces well worth the stairs or elevator rides. Travel slowly from Paseo de Peralta up old Santa Fe Trail toward the junction of Old Pecos Trail so you can discover small new venues. The Santa Fe New Mexican prints news and schedules of cultural events every Friday in its Pasatiempo magazine. Web resources include santafe.org and SantaFe.com. Friday mornings from 8 to 8:30 a.m., alternative radio station KSFR-FM 101.1 hosts Mary Charlotte Domandi and local guests who offer a rundown on weekly events, as well as interviews with local and visiting arts personalities every Monday through Friday between 8 and 9 a.m.
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than in the plethora of galleries that represent them. At the top of Canyon Road, in The Stables at 821, small artist studios congregate in the former stables of the Vigil family next to the Teahouse, which was originally home to the Vigils. The parking is limited; imagination is not. Artist Ed Larsen lists available subjects on a sign: “birds, cowboys, fish, past life experiences.”
OPTION NO. 2 ATTEND THE GALA Fresh and contemporary, nine galleries stand in the newly organized GALA District — it stands for Galleries at Lincoln Avenue — between the Plaza and West Marcy Street. At the Plaza end of Lincoln, the gorgeous New Mexico History Museum houses the Spiegelberg gallery store specializing in living New Mexican artisans. Galleries in the district include Allan Houser, David Richard Contemporary, Legends Santa Fe, Niman Fine Art, Pippin Contemporary, Windsor Betts, One Artist Road Fine Art and Evoke Gallery. “We look for provocative and compelling contemporary art that is thought-provoking and not always comfortable,” said Evoke co-owner Kathrine Erickson. A few doors away, Blue Rain Gallery offers a decidedly current counterpoint, focusing primarily on Native American and/or New Mexican artists working in pottery, bronzes, paintings, jewelry and glass.
OPTION NO. 3 VISIT THE PALACE Within walking distance of GALA, ancient meets modern at the intersection of the West Palace Arts District and the Palace of the Governors, where Indian artists set out their own beautifully crafted jewelry and pottery under the portal. The West Palace Arts District includes the New Mexico Museum of Art as well as the Museum of New Mexico Foundation, the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum and LewAllen, Manitou, Wadle and Peterson-Cody galleries. Patina Gallery owner/artists Allison and Ivan Barnett present fine craft, primarily 21st century jewelers whose nontraditional jewelry dances between the lines of wearable art and sculpture. “I get turned on by unique and fabulous color, texture, surface and quality of workmanship. I look for unusual juxtapositions,” Allison Barnett said.
OPTION NO. 4 HEAR THAT TRAIN A’ COMIN’ The Santa Fe Railyard District, opened in 2008, is a combination of steel, sparks and anticipation. Home to modern international contemporary art venues, the Railyard Arts District includes 10 galleries — Charlotte Jackson Fine Art, Gebert Contemporary, James Kelly Contemporary, Santa Fe Clay, Box, Jay Etkin, William Siegal, Tai, Zane Bennett and LewAllen galleries — and SITE Santa Fe, a renowned contemporary arts exhibition and programming space. Natural light fills the two-story LewAllen Gallery (which has a companion location on West Palace Avenue) that is specifically designed to showcase large contemporary pieces. “A lot of our artwork is up and coming, and so is this district,” said gallery representative Iris McLister. In addition to the formal galleries, open-air art booths appear on weekends along the rails across the road from the indoor/outdoor Santa Fe Farmers Market and Railyard Artisans Market.
Art walks and websites
WHY SANTA FE READERS SHOP AT BOOK MOUNTAIN 1. LARGE SELECTION: More than 30,000 different titles on our shelves. 2. LOW PRICES: We sell used paperbacks at 40% of the cover price. 3. EASY TO FIND: Books are categorized and alphabetized. 4. READ & RECYCLE: A generous exchange policy. 5. FUN: A friendly and helpful staff.
471-2625 2101 Cerrillos Rd. 60 2012 Bienvenidos
The Canyon Road Art Walk is held on the fourth Friday of each month, when many galleries host openings from 5 to 7 p.m. (Not all galleries participate.) Check The Santa Fe New Mexican’s Friday arts, entertainment and culture magazine for listings or visit www.canyonroadarts.com/ or www.visitcanyonroad.com. The West Palace Arts District is bounded by the New Mexico Museum of Art, the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, and the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum. Member businesses and museums are located on West Palace Avenue, Johnson Street and Marcy Street. The association hosts an art walk on the first Friday of each month from 5 to 7:30 p.m. (www.westpalace.org) The nine galleries at Lincoln Avenue (GALA) represent more than 500 contemporary artists. Located between West Palace Avenue (the Plaza) and West Marcy Street, the association hosts an art walk between 5 and 7 p.m. on the first Friday of every month. (www.sfgala.org) The Railyard Arts District stretches out from the intersection of South Guadalupe Street and Paseo de Peralta. The district hosts an art walk from 5 to 7 p.m. on the last Friday of every month.
SUMMER 2011 THANK YOU’S
Cornerstones Community Partnerships and St. Michael’s High School thanks these very generous donors and volunteers for their support on our San Miguel Chapel Preservation Project 2011
Alysia Abbott • Rachel Adler • Heath Bailey • Lea Barsocchini • Austin Basham David Blackman • Kathleen Blanch • Leslie Carpenter • Josh Carrasco • Paul Chattey Robin Chavez • Fabian Chavez III • Bruce Chemel • Santo Coppola • Ashley Crossin Lynn Daniel •Marty Davenport • Sue Ann DeGarbo •Larry and Angie Delgado Rodrigo Delgado • Shannon Dennison • William Dodge • Sue Eininger • Andi Espinoza Anna Farner • Janet Fowler • John Fox • William Garcia • Anne Goler • Sam Govea • Anastasia Gumbinez Charles Haecker • Ted Harsha • Cliff Hickey • Robert Himmerich y Valencia • Eva Valencia de Himmerich David Holtkamp • Jake Ivey • Cameron Jackson •Mark Johnson• Carola Kieve • Luke Kuzava • Ryan Lamb Chester Liebs • Alex Longacre • Carrie Mardorf • Renee Martinez • Solomon Martinez • Exilda Martinez Candace McKinley • Charles McKinley • Lauren Meyer • Rachel Miller-Howard • Joel Miyamonto • Max Myers Elizabeth Oster • Daniel Ortega • Kendra Owenby • Lievre Oxa • Mollie Parsons • William Powell • William Rekas Michael Rekas • Mary Ann Rekas • Elliot Richman • Greg Ridgley • Serafina Ridgley • Debra Royall • Alex Saiz Virginia Salazar-Halfmoon • Irvin Sandoval • Esteban Segura • Lawrence Sena • Cory Serna • Daniel Sexton Samantha Sexton • Michelle Schuster • J.T. Stark • Marsha Sullivan • Sergi Talamantes •Fenton and Judy Talbott Alysha Trujillo • Raymond Trujillo • Adrianna VanderBorgh • Andrew Veech • Tim Vigil • David Vlaming Bradley Wheaton • Daniel Wlupp • Susan Woodburn • Students and Staff from St. Michael’s High School Students and Staff from Archbishop Rummel High School in New Orleans • Students and Staff from Bosque School in Albuquerque Students from College of Art and Design: Natalie Abel • Madeline Bentley • Dylan Bucher Sohl • Jorge DeAvila • Bruno DePaschoal Ebony Dubose • Jacey Ellis • Sam Funk • Thales Griego de Aguliar • Christine Guevera • Marcelino Gutierrez • Elizabeth Hasbun • Santa Fe Land Use Department: Austin Alt John Armijo • Wendy Blackwell • Yolanda Cortez • Darcy Griego • Grace Griego • Jon Griego •Marylynn Griego • David Leyba • Matthew O’Reilly • Adrian Ortiz Victor Ortiz • Juliana Rivera • Mike Rivera • Richard Trujillo • Aaron Vigil • Edward Vigil • John Vigil • Donna Wyrant • R.B. Zaxus Students from the Breadloaf School of English • Anonymous • Barker Welfare Foundation • Eugene V. and Clare E. Thaw Charitable Trust Thornburg Investment Management • State of New Mexico • City of Santa Fe
AND ANNOUNCING OUR CALL FOR SUMMER 2012 VOLUNTEERS — COME HELP US FINISH THE LAST WALL We’ve done the north, east, west walls—come join in the community effort to preserve a Santa Fe treasure.
To volunteer call Cornerstones Community Partnerships 505-982-9521
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colores | colors
Members of Le Chat Lunatique — from left, Muni Kulasinghe on violin, Fernando Garavito on drums, John Sandlin on guitar, and Jared Putnam on bass — play at the Second Street Brewery (original location) on a Friday night. The group is from Albuquerque and describes its sound as “filthy, mangy jazz.”
Love the nightlife?
If you know where to look, you can find live music in Santa Fe all year round STORY BY GABE GOMEZ PHOTOS BY KERRY SHERCK
Santa Fe is a daytime city. Let’s face it; we are not well known for our nightlife. Even the Santa Fe Opera, which for years began its performances at 9 p.m., has shifted to earlier curtain times this season in response to patron requests. But to be fair, there are many options for those who prefer the after-dinner evening out. Indeed, our spectacular sunsets don’t necessarily herald the conclusion to our day but, rather, the beginning of another part of Santa Fe life that you won’t necessarily find in a guidebook — such as a substantial music scene.
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It’s probably downright inevitable that the emotional undercurrent of Santa Fe’s allure includes an appropriate soundtrack provided by a local musician. Predictably, the time between Memorial Day and Labor Day is a busy time for many local musicians. Live music pops up in unexpected places, and the mainstays in the local nightlife provide a wider variety of acts. Vanessie Santa Fe, for example, has recently succeeded in reinventing itself and revitalizing the live music scene with its ambitious new music calendar. Santa Fe institution Evangelo’s Cocktail Lounge offers two stages. The upstairs stage boasts one of the city’s most sophisticated sound systems, where you’ll hear a variety of musical acts, while The Underground at Evangelo’s hosts some of the best local DJs and live music of all stripes. The Rouge Cat nightclub offers all kinds of late-night revelry most nights of the week, and one would be remiss not to mention El Farol Restaurant and Cantina and the
A couple dances to the tunes of Broomdust Caravan at Tiny’s Restaurant & Lounge.
Cowgirl BBQ for their steady contributions to Santa Fe’s nightlife options. There are many other outstanding places in Santa Fe that host live music or DJs — but suppose you are on the hunt for something different. Maybe you’re the kind of traveler and music lover who appreciates the local atmosphere as much as the amplified sound that fills a room. And as much as you love saying “Christmas” in response to your chile options, perhaps there is a venue beyond the well-worn path that reminds you why this place is truly special.
Homegrown gigs You can tell a lot about a town by the beer it brews. Although it may not be the oldest microbrewery in Santa Fe, Second Street Brewery produces some of the most complex and well-balanced flavor profiles in town. In this, it speaks to Santa Fe’s sophisticated foodie palate without forgetting that nothing beats a cold brew at the end of a long day. With two locations — the original “Oldery” on Second Street and the “Newery” in the Santa Fe Railyard — Second Street Brewery is the restaurant equivalent of boots and blue jeans; sure it’s casual, but around here that passes as unassuming refinement. And like the beer it brews, the live music at Second Street Brewery on Friday and Saturday evenings between 6 and 9 p.m. is not the usual fare. Where the objective of most bars’ live entertainment is to draw in the thirsty throngs for the well drinks and jalapeño popper specials — sadly obscuring the talent of musicians — Second Street Brewery is the place where one can actually appreciate the nuance of musicianship, the poignancy of singer-songwriters, and the low-end rump shake if the feeling happens to arise. Add the outdoor seating areas and the ample sunshine that usually lead to stunning sunsets, and there’s not a lot missing for a great time out. Bluegrass, Americana, and roots rock singersongwriters like Joe West and duos like Todd and the Fox perform on occasion, with the occasional funk outfit like Pollo Frito or the Gypsy swing of Le Chat
Members of Broomdust Caravan — from left, Karina Wilson on violin, Felecia Ford on vocals, and Johny Broomdust on bass — perform at Tiny’s Restaurant & Lounge.
Lunatique rounding out a panoramic sampling of local and Albuquerque-based bands. On Tuesday nights at the Railyard location, the open mic night hosted by Case Tanner brings out the local hidden talent. Throughout the summer, acts such as the Bo Deans and Fun perform at the Heath Concerts’ free Railyard Community Concert Series, where the brewery is among the business sponsors and provides the suds for the occasion.
Tiny Dancer If you have ever visited Santa Fe and wandered into Tiny’s Restaurant on Early Street, chances are good that it still looks exactly as you remember it. The ceramic decanters, absence of natural light and the artwork depicting what seem to be images of a brothel are still there and will probably be forever. Despite its proximity to the Plaza and the up-and-coming Railyard District, Tiny’s manages to maintain its anonymity. It’s tough to call anyplace in Santa Fe a “locals” hangout, considering that many of the people who live here are probably from somewhere else. But it’s safe to say that Tiny’s is the dye in the fabric of Santa Fe. While the faux adobe, teal coyote lamps and needless variations of Frito Pie rule the center of town, Tiny’s is your grandmother's rec room — the place you destroyed on Sunday afternoons with your cousins and where you played spin the bottle and had Led Zeppelin listening parties. In other words, it’s comfortable and without pretense. Imagine your parents, in their 70s, going out on a dinner-and-dancing date — this is the place. Say you want some outstanding chile rellenos, a cold brew and to be entertained by a karaoke singer mutilating Steve Miller’s The Joker — this is the place. Need to two-step to some original country music on a Thursday night? This is the place. During the summer months most music venues, restaurants and bars bulk up their music offerings. Tiny’s — where you can find music most nights of the week — is somewhat impervious to the whims of the tourist
foot traffic. Tuesdays are open mic nights for aspiring musicians; Wednesday nights offer jazz. Thursday, one of its most popular nights, features Americana bands like the Broomdust Caravan, while Friday brings in the rock ‘n’ roll crowd. The aforementioned karaoke is an audience favorite on Saturdays.
IF YOU GO SECOND STREET BREWERY
Original location 1814 Second St. 505-982-3030
Railyard 1607 Paseo De Peralta 505-989-3278 TINY’S RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE 1005 St. Francis Drive 505-983-9817 EL FAROL RESTAURANT AND CANTINA 808 Canyon Road 505-983-9912 EVANGELO’S COCKTAIL LOUNGE AND THE UNDERGROUND 200 W. San Francisco St. 505-982-9014 ROUGE CAT 101 W. Marcy Ave. 505-983-6603 THE COWGIRL BBQ 319 S. Guadalupe St. 505-982-2565 VANESSIE SANTA FE 427 W. Water St. 505-982-9966
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SANBUSCO Where the locals shop and dine...
Santa Fe’S FineSt Specialty Mall In the heart of the Historic Railyard District 500 Montezuma avenue , Santa Fe 505.989.9390 • www.sanbusco.com • FREE WIFI • Free Parking 64 2 012 Bienvenidos
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aire libre | fresh air
Roads less taken STORY AND PHOTOS BY KARL F. MOFFATT
New Mexico’s Santa Fe Trail is steeped in history and adventure, and visitors to the City Different can enjoy some of the best the trail has to offer by taking a day trip to nearby attractions. The road to Fort Union, just a couple of hours east of Santa Fe, is an enjoyable drive with a great history — and a bonus for visitors: Your admission receipt will also get you into Pecos National Historical Park — another fine day trip out of Santa Fe. At one time the Southwest’s largest military installation and supply depot, Fort Union contained one of the best hospitals in the West, an ammo depot, military prison, several warehouses, mechanics shops, corrals and troop quarters. It also served as a vital stopping point on the Santa Fe Trail for merchants and other travelers seeking safety and relief from the open road. Now it stands eerily silent, its remaining chimneys and walls rising above the grasslands like an adobe Stonehenge. During the eight-mile trip to the fort after you exit Interstate 25 North, you’ll be able to see remnants of the deep ruts left by long processions of wagon trains that helped settle the West back in the 1800s. Today herds of antelope graze those same plains, and real cowboys work cattle in the fields. Immersed in a sea of grass that extends for miles, the valley in which the fort sits is flanked on both sides by piñon-, juniper- and ponderosa-covered hills. It’s a picturesque and reverent place. There are stone walkways and foundations still laid out in military precision and the remnants of brick chimneys standing as silent sentinels over the old fort’s parade grounds. Walking the sprawling ruins provides a leisurely hike and gives visitors a feel for the size and scope of the garrison; the many signs posted about the grounds help you interpret what you see. Folks with active imaginations might even hear the creak and groan of wagon wheels and the crack of a drover’s whip — or detect the musky odor of leather and horses upon the wind.
Hungry for more?
On your way back to Santa Fe, stop for an authentic New Mexican meal at the Spic and Span restaurant in historic Las Vegas. Take an after-dinner cruise around town and enjoy some of the best-preserved Victorian architecture in the state. Visitors can also stop by the railroad depot for a look at the once-grand Harvey Hotel still standing there.
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Fort Union is a ghost
NOW IT STANDS EERILY SILENT, ITS REMAINING CHIMNEYS AND WALLS RISING ABOVE THE GRASSLANDS LIKE AN ADOBE STONEHENGE.
IF YOU GO
of its former self
Fort Union National Monument is located about 90 miles northeast of Santa Fe off I-25 North. Take Exit 366 at N.M. 161 just after Watrous and follow the signs. For more information, visit www.nps.gov/foun/index.htm.
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aire libre | fresh air
Villanueva State Park a great place to hike, picnic or fish STORY AND PHOTOS BY KARL F. MOFFATT
New Mexico’s Spanish heritage is evident in the little villages and settlements found along the old Santa Fe Trail, and a leisurely drive out to Villanueva State Park is a great way to experience the traditional rural lifestyle that has served as the backbone of the local Hispano culture for so long. Just 60 miles east of Santa Fe, off Interstate 25 North, tidy little Villanueva State Park is tucked away in a picturesque valley. Because the Pecos River flows through it, the park is a great midweek destination for a hike, to picnic or to fish. Villanueva State Park’s visitor center sports a classic Southwest-style adobe-colored, stucco exterior with a small cupola atop the metal roof; you’ll find brochures, pamphlets and small informative displays inside. The park features good campsites — some nestled among shade trees by the river, more on top of a hill overlooking the valley. There’s a bathhouse with showers and a modern playground for kids. Although swimming and wading are favorite activities during the hot summer months, the river is regularly stocked with trout for good fishing from fall through spring. Crossing the attractive iron bridge that spans the river, you’ll find a 2.5-mile loop trail that heads up to the ravine overlooking the campground and river below. The views from atop the mesa are spectacular and worth the hike. The park was created from land donated by members of the local Spanish land grant, many of whom lived in the nearby village of Villanueva, so it’s a popular weekend destination for locals.
Hungry for more? Stop in the village of Villanueva, where you’ll find a beautiful church constructed in 1830 of local rock and a classic, small-town mercantile. You may also want to drive to the top of the hill overlooking the village to see the grotto that contains santos and other religious items. On the drive home, visitors should consider stopping for an exceptional meal at La Risa Café in Ribera, where breakfast is available all day and beer and wine can be ordered with a meal on the patio.
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IF YOU GO From Santa Fe take I-25 North toward Las Vegas. Get off at Exit 323 and follow N.M. 3 to the outskirts of the village of Villanueva. Note the sign at the intersection with County Road B 28 A, which leads down to Villanueva State Park. For more information, visit www.emnrd.state.nm.us/prd/villanueva.htm.
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aire libre | fresh air
Small is educational
The little museum at Pecos National Historical Park offers a well-designed and easily absorbed STORY AND PHOTOS BY KARL F. MOFFATT
The interpretive display at the Pecos National Historical Park Museum 35 miles east of Santa Fe begins with the story of the Puebloans who called the area home long before the Spanish arrived. On exhibition are pots, tools and other artifacts that illustrate the lifestyle of the Pecos Pueblo Indians when they lived in this valley located on the edge of the Great Plains. At its height in the 1400s, the pueblo boasted 700 rooms and housed about 2,000 Indians. It served as a regional trading center and drew nomadic Plains Indians to its doorsteps to trade goods and services. A diorama in a glass case recreates the four-story tall adobe pueblo featuring latillas and covered portals — a design influence that can still be seen today in some downtown Santa Fe buildings. Large, colorful panels complement brief blocks of text that spell out in greater detail the series of historical events instrumental in shaping both the park’s and the state’s history — especially the arrival of Spanish conquistadors, whose settlements throughout the area eventually led to the Indians’ abandonment of the pueblo. A Spanish mission built next to the Indian pueblo was destroyed during a widespread Indian uprising in 1680 that drove the Spanish out of New Mexico. It was rebuilt after the Spanish returned some 12 years later. Meanwhile, the few remaining Puebloans had moved on to a more hospitable location — Jemez Pueblo outside of Albuquerque — where many of their descendants can still be found. The ruins of the Spanish mission and excavated remains of the Indian pueblo may be the most dominant features of the park today, but the visitor center might be its best attraction. Museum displays further document the role the Santa Fe Trail played in bringing Anglo settlers to the area in search of trade with the local Spanish and Indian populations. There is a good accounting of one of the pivotal battles of the Civil War — often referred to as the Gettysburg of the West — during which Union and Confederate forces clashed over much of the same ground the park occupies today. The center also pays homage to the park’s primary
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account of the park’s — and the state’s — fascinating history A 1980S-ERA SHORT FILM ABOUT THE PARK NARRATED BY GREER GARSON, WHICH FEATURES EARLY FLYOVER CINEMATOGRAPHY, CAN BE VIEWED IN THE ATTACHED KIVA AUDITORIUM INSIDE THE CENTER. benefactors, Texas oilman and cattle rancher E.E. “Buddy” Fogelson and his wife, actress Greer Garson. The couple donated most of the money and many of the exhibits to build and equip the visitor center and left their nearby Forked Lightning Ranch headquarters and land to the park, too. The Fogelsons’ involvement in the park is typical of an era during which Santa Fe became a playground for the rich and famous, who reveled in its earthy ambiance and Southwest art and culture. A 1980s-era short film about the park narrated by Garson, which features early flyover cinematography, can be viewed in the attached Kiva Auditorium inside the center. The visitor center building itself is an excellent example of classic southwestern construction incorporating stucco, carved wooden beams, adobes, vigas and latillas, as well as tinwork — all set amid a stunning backdrop of forested mountains framed by an expansive sky. Its shop features a great selection of park and Southwest-related books, gifts and mementos. Another interesting feature of the park is the limited fishing program on a three-mile segment of the Pecos River that wends its way through the grounds. There are also self-guided tours of the Civil War battlefields for those seeking a hike.
IF YOU GO Take I-25 North out of Santa Fe toward Las Vegas and get off at the Pecos/Glorieta Exit 299 at N.M. 50. Drive into town and make a right at the stop sign at the intersection of N.M. 63. Follow for a couple of miles to the visitor center entrance. For more information, visit www.nps.gov/ peco/index.htm or call the visitor center at 505-757-7241.
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Serious
& Fun
FOLK ART • T E XTILE S • CDS • BOOKS • JEWELRY WITH A GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE 1O 9 8 1/ 2 S. S T FR A NC I S DR . @ P E N R D. MON – SAT 1O – 5 9 8 2 . 2 59 2
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ARIN MCKENNA
From ancient cliff dwellings to world-class golf Santa Clara Pueblo’s enterprises cover broad spectrum
BY ARIN MCKENNA
First and foremost, last summer’s devastating Las Conchas Fire did not close Santa Clara Pueblo. Although the fire dealt the pueblo a heavy blow, destroying more than 16,600 acres (80 percent) of its forested lands and impacting 95 percent of its watershed, Santa Clara’s village and enterprises are largely unaffected. The Puye Cliff Dwellings — a national historical landmark — are the ancestral homes of the Santa Claran people, occupied from approximately 1200 until the Pueblo
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Revolt of 1680. The settlement housed nearly 1,200 people, the largest on the Pajarito Plateau. Tribal members lead guided tours of the cliff dwellings. Learning from their descendents how ancestral people lived is excellent preparation for visitors who want to see other ancestral Puebloan (often mistakenly called Anasazi) ruins, including nearby Bandelier National Monument. “It is important that Santa Clara people are able to educate others about the significance of our ancestral dwellings,” said Puye operations manager Lucinda Williams. “We can enhance a visitor’s experience with accurate information. We’re ambassadors for our community. We’re passionate about our culture, we’re passionate about our traditions and dances, and we’re
passionate about our ancestral ruins.” The guides’ training ranges from CPR and first aid to hearing oral histories from tribal elders. Many elders remember their parents selling pottery at the Harvey House bed and breakfast at the base of the cliff dwellings. The Harvey House — dating to the 1920s — now serves as an interpretive center and gift shop. On summer weekends Santa Claran people demonstrate or sell their art there. According to Williams, providing visitors with a “touch of culture” is the focus of all the pueblo’s enterprises. “That means we are always respectful of our guests, inviting them in,” Williams said. “Warmth, friendship and hospitality” are cultural values tribal members hope to convey.
fresh air | aire libre
COURTESY
Black Mesa Golf Club Puye reopened in 2008, after an eight-year closure in the aftermath of the Cerro Grande Fire. Before the closure, visitors were allowed to wander freely through the dwellings, something many people miss. But the lack of restrictions led to looted artifacts and damage ranging from erosion to graffiti. “Every person makes an impact on the land. That’s been one of the hardest things to teach people,” Williams said. “We want this for the next 100 generations, so we need to preserve this now for the future of our community. We decided upon tours to minimize the impact and provide a more meaningful experience for people.”
Galleries emphasize personal touch The Santa Clara people left the cliff dwellings for fertile ground by the Río Grande more than three centuries ago. Santa Clara village is open to visitors, but do not expect a tourist haven in this quiet village. A few tribal members still occupy homes in the village, but most live in new housing developments on Pueblo lands. The church and cemetery are off-limits to visitors. An “open” sign indicates someone selling pottery from his or her home. A stop at one of those or at two artistowned galleries might inspire a treasured memory. Merrock Gallery, owned by Paul and Rosalda Speckled Rock, carries pottery by Paul and other Native artists, American Indian jewelry and Rosalda’s paintings. The gallery occupies the house Paul’s grandmother lived in and serves as the artists’ studio. “This is our retirement,” Paul said. “This is like our garden or our little fishing place.” Paul always has a table set up where he can demonstrate, with the help of photographs, how traditional pottery is hand coiled and fired. He may tell stories of learning the art from his grandmother or explain the pottery designs. This type of personal interaction is rarely found at busier pueblos. But it also is available at Naranjo’s Pottery, located in Sammy Naranjo and Melony Gutierrez’s home. Sammy learned pottery making from his mother Flora when he was 12 years old and is known for his two-toned sgraffito (etched) pottery. Melony is one of the few artists still practicing red willow basketry. She also learned pottery making from
TODAY’S PUEBLOS MERGE ANCIENT TRADITIONS WITH CONTEMPORARY LIFESTYLES Visitors often arrive in New Mexico with Hollywood
guided tour, and many Taos people have established
images of American Indians in mind. They may
galleries in their ancestral homes.
visit the pueblos expecting either a theme park
But visiting a sleepier Puebloan village may reap
experience of multistoried pueblos (remembered
other rewards. Artists selling from their homes
from grade school lessons) or Plains Indians wearing
may tell stories of learning pottery making from a
feathered headdresses and living in tepees.
grandmother or an aunt. Galleries are less crowded,
Many are disappointed to find that most Puebloan
and the artists who own them are often generous
villages are very similar to any other Northern New
with their time and willing to educate visitors about
Mexico village, comprising single-family adobe
the ancient art of pottery making.
homes with residents engaged in the same activities their contemporaries engage in elsewhere. “When
Santa Clara and Picuris pueblos in some ways exemplify contemporary Puebloan life. Both
they see me in my Nike shirt and Nike shoes, they
offer experiences ranging from quiet villages to
sometimes ask if I’m an Indian,” said artist Melony
contemporary hotels, providing opportunities to
Gutierrez of Santa Clara Pueblo. The villages are usually quiet, with few people about, because most pueblo members live in
learn more about Puebloan people and the world they inhabit today. Those planning to purchase pottery or artwork
contemporary homes away from the older village and
at the pueblos are advised to carry cash. Galleries
work at day jobs. Most villages have a few “open”
usually accept credit cards, but individual artists
signs indicating families selling pottery or other
often do not.
artwork from their homes and maybe a family-owned gallery or two. Those wanting to see more traditional Puebloan structures should visit Taos or Acoma. Taos has two multistoried pueblos inhabited for more than 1,000
Many pueblos are offering other venues for interacting with Puebloan people and aesthetics — modern enterprises ranging from hotels to golf courses. Resort/casinos such as Sandia Resort & Casino
years. Acoma’s multistory structures are smaller, due
or Santa Ana Pueblo’s Hyatt Regency Tamaya
to the pueblo’s perch on a mesa top, but they also
Resort and Spa offer luxurious accommodations
hold centuries of history.
with a contemporary Puebloan aesthetic. Buffalo
Taos and Acoma have also embraced tourism.
Thunder Resort & Casino is filled with museum-
Acoma offers only guided tours of the ancient
quality contemporary American Indian art. Puebloan
pueblo, with pueblo members selling pottery along
golf courses are often masterpieces of landscape
the tour route. Visitors at Taos may wander the
architecture. Casinos are often worth visiting for
village on their own or enrich their experience with a
their interior design and architecture.
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ARIN MCKENNA
The Puye Cliff Dwellings Sammy and specializes in turtles and other animal figurines, a tribute to the pottery style of her grandparents Esquipula and Joseph Gutierrez. She is currently stretching the boundaries of both art forms by integrating basketry with pottery. The couple also use photographs to explain the art of pottery making. Melony may describe how wonderful the pueblo smells when all the hornos (adobe ovens) are filled with bread and pies before feast day or when she is passing down traditions to younger generations. “We get a little break from working and get to speak with people,” she said. “That’s the delight of it.”
Hotel, golf course a new focus The Santa Clara Development Corporation manages several tribal enterprises. The Santa Claran Hotel’s Native aesthetic and its central location are selling points for those exploring Northern New Mexico. The lobby’s whitewashed walls are set off by viga (log beam) and latilla (wood slat) ceilings, hand-wrought woodwork, hand-woven rugs and tin wall sconces created by local artists. Historic photographs of the pueblo adorn the walls, along with the pottery for which the pueblo is famous. Three restaurants are all located off the adjoining casino. The pueblo also owns the Big Rock Bowling Center in the same complex. The pueblo is building strong partnerships for economic development and tourism. One example of this is a partnership among the hotel, the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta and six Northern New Mexico wineries to host a festival May 19-20. According to principal Eddie Peck, Black Mesa Golf Club is listed among the top 100 golf courses on all the major ratings panels. Links magazine called it “one of the more spectacular courses anywhere” and named it one of 18 major-worthy public courses. “I’m proud that we have a world-class golf course here in New Mexico,” Peck said. “It also offers one of the best values for a course of this quality.” Robert Baxter Spann designed the course, which is integrated into the natural contours of the land. “It’s a challenging course but one of the best there is. I don’t think anyone is disappointed once they come out,” Peck said.
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COURTESY
Santa Claran Hotel
RULES OF ETIQUETTE FOR PUEBLO VISITATION Visiting pueblos or attending feast day dances are remarkable opportunities to experience another culture and religion. Showing respect for the Pueblo regulations and etiquette allows you to have a rich and rewarding experience without mishap. • Sketching, recording and any other means of audio or visual reproduction are prohibited at most pueblos, although most do allow photography with the purchase of a camera permit. Permits usually cost $5 to $15 and may be purchased at tribal offices or visitor centers. (Note: At many pueblos, camera permits may only be purchased at tribal offices Monday through Friday.) Never photograph an individual or private property without asking permission. Violating pueblo regulations concerning photography — this includes cell phone cameras — could result in the confiscation of your camera by tribal police. • Pueblos are not amusement parks or living history museums but residential communities. Behave as you would want others to behave if they were visiting your community. • Enter a pueblo home as you would any other — by invitation only. • Do not climb ladders or climb on walls and other structures. Structures may be several hundred years old and easily damaged. Do not pick up or remove any artifacts or objects. • Kivas and cemeteries are off-limits to non-Puebloan people. Churches may also be off-limits and are definitely closed to non-Pueblo people if surrounded by a cemetery. If you are unsure whether you may enter a structure or area, obtain permission first. • Alcohol, weapons and drugs are not allowed in the pueblos. • Do not bring dogs to the pueblos.
RULES OF ETIQUETTE DURING TRADITIONAL DANCES • Pueblo dances are religious ceremonies, not performances. Observe them as you would a church service, with respect and quiet attention. Do not interrupt non-dance participants by pushing in front of them, blocking their view, asking questions or visiting with friends. • Most pueblos do not allow photography on feast days. • Do not conduct business or socialize loudly. Many pueblo members only have a chance to see certain dances once a year and may have traveled many miles to participate. • Cell phones should be turned off and may be confiscated if used during a ceremony. • Plazas have been blessed for the dances and are considered holy space. Do not walk across a plaza even if the dancing has stopped: Keep to the edges. • Refrain from talking to the dancers. Do not approach dancers as they are entering, leaving or resting near the kivas. • Applause after dances is not appropriate. • The dances start and end at their own pace. Be patient. • If you are fortunate enough to receive an invitation to a feast day meal, there are some simple guidelines. If the table is full, join those waiting in the living room until everyone who arrived before you has had a chance to be served. Do not linger at the table. It is polite to take desserts such as fruit pies as you leave so that others can be seated. Thank your host, but a payment or tip is not appropriate.
fresh air | aire libre
Picuris provides contrast The pueblo’s quiet village and elegant hotel are worlds apart
BY ARIN MCKENNA
Economic development, no gaming
Picuris means “the people who paint,” and
Nailor has been on the tribal council for more than 30 years and served as governor for more than 15 terms. He has labored not only to sustain and revive traditional activities and values but also to introduce innovations he feels will benefit the tribe. It was Nailor who convinced the Picuris council to build the Hotel Santa Fe. At an economic-development workshop for tribal leaders, Nailor learned that investors wanted to partner with a pueblo to build a hotel, with the help of the United States Department of Agriculture’s guaranteed loan program for rural economic development. Nailor realized this could help the tribe financially without resorting to gaming. “Another concept had to be formed so the pueblo would be supported futuristically,” Nailor said. “We had heard about the many vices of gaming when we were growing up, because the concept through the traditional thought was to give, not to take. “I took the package to Picuris, and I was almost shouted off the podium. Even a $10 loan is very big for them, and you talk about an eleven-and-a-half-million-dollar loan, and it’s devastating.” The biggest fear was that tribal lands would be lost if the hotel failed. Eventually Nailor prevailed, and the hotel opened in 1990. “We had a lot of input on the grounds, the architecture, the plants, and what was needed here,” Nailor said. Nailor also advocated for amenities such as a swimming pool and the Amaya restaurant, rather than a buffet. The restaurant has earned renown for its blending of indigenous and nonindigenous ingredients. When the hotel opened, training and shuttle service to work was provided for Picuris members. Nailor himself — between terms as governor — decided to learn kitchen operations from the ground up. He started as a dishwasher, worked his way up to prep cook and was the hotel’s first breakfast chef. Income from the hotel helps support tribal administration, and the pueblo is slowly redeveloping. Pueblo members now enjoy a gym, fishing lakes and a disc golf course. Farming and traditional foods are being reintroduced. Last year the tribe planted one field of traditional corn, beans, squash and pumpkins and four fields of hay for its bison herd. This year the tribe will plant five fields with vegetables and five with hay. Tribal elders teach young people about traditions such as wild food sources as they work the land. The pueblo has been proactive in protecting its resources, expelling two mining companies from their traditional homelands and resolving water-rights issues by working cooperatively with communities along the
one of the best ways to gain an appreciation of Picuris Pueblo is to first visit the gift shop at the Hotel Santa Fe to see images of village life painted by Picuris Governor Gerald Nailor (New Deer). Although it holds the usual sundries and gift items, the gift shop is more a miniature art gallery featuring Native artists. Nailor himself is often there on weekends. Nailor is the son of noted Diné (Navajo) artist Gerald Nailor, Sr. His mother, Santana, was Picuris. Nailor’s inspiration derives from memories of growing up at Picuris and from stories passed down through his family and village elders. His images evoke Picuris in the early decades of the last century: people gathered around a tractor-powered threshing machine, a woman and child (his mother and grandmother) leading a burro down a country road, villagers working together on the annual spring cleaning of the acequia (irrigation ditch). “Most of the art that I do is just reliving the areas that are forgotten. Like the threshing machine — the last time they did this was probably the early ’60s,” Nailor said. “I see that great change within Picuris, how the community was much more intertwined, much more cohesive. They were farming, working the fields together, plastering the homes together and doing things communally. They still kept some of the traditions, because most of the elders were still there that knew that road of life.” World War II disrupted the continuity, when many soldiers returned from war addicted to alcohol. “In the ’50s it was very harsh, but slowly we began to limp back to where, even if the farming was left behind, there was still that communal togetherness, but a little bit more distant,” Nailor said. “Most people born with those traditional concepts, inherited through the dances and the songs and the land, have a sense of survival. When they left the fields, I think those first contacts with selfbeing were through dancing.” The pueblo’s decline had begun centuries earlier with the arrival of the Spanish and the diseases they carried. Don Juan de Oñate, who established the first Spanish settlement in New Mexico in 1598, called it “Gran Pueblo de los Picuris.” The pueblo was several stories high and held 2,000 to 3,000 inhabitants. It was a center of trade between the Plains Indians and the Puebloan people of the Río Grande Valley. The Picuris Pueblo population now is less than 200.
IF YOU GO Those planning to visit Picuris Pueblo should realize it is not a destination in itself. It has no galleries or artists selling from their homes and nothing to cater to tourism. But driving through the pueblo while on the High Road to Taos (the pueblo has a northern and southern entrance on New Mexico 75) may give a sense of pueblo life today. Spending the morning in Chimayó (famous for the Santuario de Chimayó, weaving galleries and the Rancho de Chimayó restaurant), then following the High Road as far as Picuris before heading south through Dixon to visit some Northern New Mexico wineries is another good option. The mission church of San Lorenzo is a focal point of the village. The pueblo completely rebuilt the adobe church after an attempt to preserve it by plastering with cement caused the adobe infrastructure to collapse. The church is only open for services, but its adobe walls are a testament to the community's cooperative efforts to preserve something of value. Viewing the bison herd from the road is another highlight. Puebloan people used to travel to the plains to hunt buffalo, and many tribes have established herds to provide a healthy meat source for their people. Buffalo meat is also for sale at the smoke shop on the northern boundary. To see Picuris at its best, attend the San Lorenzo Feast Day on August 10. Religious dances take place throughout the day, and Native artists will be selling their wares.
watershed. “We’re working with all the communities communally, rather than litigating,” Nailor said. “We don’t want to litigate our stream because it’s not right. You don’t litigate life, and you don’t weigh life and you don’t buy life.” Nailor continues to focus on economic development. He hopes to build a gas station/grocery on pueblo lands so mountain residents do not have to drive to Taos or Española for necessities. Nailor, who is 70 years old, devotes significant energy to Picuris’ future. “I’m training my youngsters to take care of the land and protect the land and the water,” he said. “So the younger generation is getting that sort of insight, how important the water is, and the animal life, the environment.”
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ARIN MCKENNA
IF YOU GO Santa Clara Pueblo and Puye Cliff Dwellings 800-320-5008 http://puyecliffs.com Summer schedule: Tours on the hour, 9 a.m.-5 p.m., seven days a week, weather permitting. Closed June 13 and Aug. 12. Cost: Harvey House: $7 adults, $5 seniors 55+ and children 14 and under; Cliffside or Mesa Top Tours: $20 adults, $18 seniors 55+ and children 14 and under; Puye Adventure Tour (combining all tour options) $35 adults, $33 seniors 55+ and children 14 and under. Directions: Take U.S. 84/285 north to NM 502 west. North on NM 30 to Santa Clara Canyon Road/Puye Cliffs Road. Purchase tickets at the Valero Gas Station/Puye Cliffs Welcome Center before driving to the cliff dwellings. Santa Clara Village Comanche Dance: June 13 Feast Day: Aug. 12 505-753-7330 Camera permits: $5. Purchase at tribal offices Monday-Friday. Directions: Take U.S. 84/285 north to NM 502 west. North on NM 30 to the pueblo entrance. Santa Claran Hotel & Casino www.santaclaran.com 877-505-4949 (hotel), 866-244-7625 (casino) Directions: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Espa単ola. The hotel, casino and Big Rock Bowling Center are .03 miles into town on the left-hand side (460 Riverside Drive). Black Mesa Golf Club www.blackmesagolfclub.com 505-747-8946 Directions: Take U.S. 84/285 north for 22 miles. Turn west on NM 399 for 1.6 miles to entrance. Santa Clara Pueblo Fund Santa Clara Pueblo has partnered with the New Mexico Community Foundation to set up a fund supporting the pueblo's fire rehabilitation and flood mitigation efforts. Restoration from the Las Conchas Fire is expected to take years. The fund currently has approximately $200,000, and the needs are significantly greater than that. Contributions provide leverage in attaining matching FEMA funding. To donate, go to www.nmcf.org. Merrock Gallery 505-753-2083. Open 10:30 a.m.-5 p.m. every day but Sunday. Naranjo Gallery 505-929-2524 or 505-929-4813. Open daily, 10 a.m. to sundown. Picuris Pueblo 575-587-2519 San Lorenzo Feast Day: Aug. 10 Camera permits: $15. Purchase at tribal offices Monday-Friday. Directions on High Road to Taos: Take U.S. 84/285 north. Turn east on NM 503. Continue 11 miles to Juan Medina Road, turn left. Turn right when Juan Medina Road ends at NM 76. Continue on NM 76 when it turns left at Truchas. Turn left when NM 76 ends at NM 75. The pueblo entrance is a quarter mile down on the right. Directions from the Low Road to Taos: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Espa単ola. From Espa単ola take SR 68 north 25 miles to SR 75 (the Dixon turnoff). Continue through Dixon north to the pueblo entrance on the left. Hotel Santa Fe www.hotelsantafe.com 982-1200 or 855-825-9876 For more information on all 19 pueblos, go to www.indianpueblo.org or www.newmexico.org/nativeamerica.
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Wheelwright Museum of the american indian 704 camino Lejo, museum hill Santa fe, nm 87505 www.wheelwright.org monday–Saturday 10–5 Sunday 1–5 free admission a certain fire: mary cabot Wheelwright collects the Southwest through april 14, 2013
Projects are made possible in part by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodgers’ tax; new mexico arts, a division of the department of cultural affairs and the national endowment for the arts; the thaw charitable trust; and many private donors. acoma manta, circa 1855 indian arts research center, iaft.122 Gift of mary cabot Wheelwright School for advanced research, Santa fe Photo by addison doty
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Case Trading Post Museum Shop Offering the Unique in Traditional and Contemporary Native American Art
Photo by Addison Doty
Visit us today or shop online at www.casetradingpost.com.
Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian 704 Camino Lejo . Museum Hill. Santa Fe, NM 87505 505.982.4636, ext. 110. www.wheelwright.org Monday-Saturday 10-5 Sunday 1-5 82 2012 Bienvenidos
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aire libre | fresh air
Digging it in Madrid Noncomformists rule former mining town BY BETH SURDUT PHOTOS BY KERRY SCHERK
I was on one of those roads that rental car policies won’t cover. I’d stopped — not lost, just not exactly sure where I was going. High winds were tossing small birds around like drunken baseballs. Then I saw the bumper sticker on a parked car: “Something wonderful is about to happen.” I raised an eyebrow. My destination was the Madrid graveyard. No one really lays claim to owning this high lonesome piece of land. Hungry weather gnaws the wooden fence poles still standing and chews the faded plastic flowers on the graves. Booker Weems, the titular owner of this small burial ground that he estimates is 100 square feet within a 20acre parcel, said he bought it sometime around 1982. The purchase was propelled by “strange stuff that was going on up there,” according to Weems, who lives nearby. But the ruckus wasn’t caused by spirits of this former ghost town. “Men were fighting and shooting at each other. I don’t know why. They was supposed to be friends.” Out of concern for his daughter, a small child riding her bike too close for comfort, he bought the property. Things have been pretty quiet since then. James Mocho, the now-76-year-old Realtor who sold Weems the land, grew up in the area on his father’s 115,000 acres. “That cemetery belongs to the people in it and their folks,” Mocho said. And what an assorted bunch they are. Life isn’t neat and tidy and neither are these scattered graves, though it’s evident that people cared. Early mining town residents, some surely victims of a disastrous explosion in 1932, are marked by nameless wooden crosses pointing in every compass direction. Some headstones, most weatherbattered and listing, bear Spanish inscriptions. But amid the piled rocks that discourage critters from digging, distinctly unusual markers call out like noisy kids who refuse to whisper at the library. Picture the contents of a curio shop — quirky, humorous, loving, and just plain weird. Without a map, one wonders if the memorials explain what these folks loved or how they died. Dolphins dance on a pole high above this rock garden. Clustered blue glass bottles glint and wink at names drawn on grave markers as unusual as the residents — an electrical box, a circular saw blade, and a knight’s helmet.
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Can openers sprout in bone-dry dirt where an eternal butterfly rests. Bike handles integrated with a cross sit atop a wheel eternally riding somewhere. A metal hand rises from the grave, insouciantly waving a smoke between tubular fingers while two guitars play on.
From company town to hippie enclave Madrid started out as a company town, owned by the Albuquerque & Cerrillos Coal Company in the 1930s and ’40s. When coal consumption declined, its owner, Oscar Huber, had to shut the mines down. In 1954, the entire town was advertised for sale in The Wall Street Journal for $250,000. There were no buyers. When Huber died in 1962, his son Joe inherited the town. “Joe Huber let the long-haired young people, known as hippies, live in the houses and fix the places up in lieu of rent,” Mocho said. Some paid minimal rents, and not all the residents were hippies. In 1973 or ’74 or ’75 — depending on who tells the story — the whole town sold for $500,00 in 16 days with no advertising. Joe Huber was the seller; Mocho the Realtor; and the temporary real estate office was the saloon still in existence, the Mine Shaft Tavern.
Independent, radically creative, and proud of it, the residents of Madrid are the people your parents may have warned you about, and now you really want to get to know them. Around 300 residents, self-identified as Madroids, form the puzzle pieces of this unincorporated town. There is no post office. Not one chain store. No local police. No undertaker. No clergy. No funeral home. Madrid’s church is a private home. Yet, although amenities may appear curtailed to an outsider, pioneering spirits with a shovel and a plot can bring forth unusual fruit in Madrid. A stroll down the eclectic main street of galleries, shops and eateries housed in former mining town shacks shows that Madrid understood recycle, upcycle and water conservation long before the terms became trendy. Being green in the desert, which seems like an oxymoron, is a challenge met daily by residents who landed here from fast American cities, wide open ranges and slow Peace Corps outposts. In this thirsty land where water tower gauges perpetually register as low, aptly named community garden coordinator Amanda Bramble oversees planting and harvesting of food and flowers. This is definitely not
Diana Johnson, owner of Johnsons of Madrid Galleries, left, and Amanda Bramble, owner of Ampersand Sustainable Learning Center, standing in Madrid on the Turquoise Trail (Hwy. 14). your average garden club. The local water co-op donates water. There are no individual plots and “the only rule is that every time you come to the garden, you have to make a contribution — labor, seeds, manure, or something,” said Bramble, who owns Ampersand Sustainable Learning Center. Diana Johnson — a 77-year-old Madrid matriarch, textile artist and co-owner of Johnsons of Madrid gallery — arrived here 39 years ago with husband Mel. Trained at the Chicago Arts Institute where Mel also taught, she and her husband were two decades older than most of the residents and continue to be linchpins of the town.
Surrounded by the work of New Mexico artists and the Johnsons’ signature creations, Diana talked about the past, present and future of the town while Mel sustained the writer and Diana with ginger ale and fudgsicles. Of the few plots set aside for community use, the one for a community garden lay dormant until four years ago. Diana described Bramble as “part of the new energy, doing what we couldn’t.” Bramble, who is extremely organized, recognizes that “if you put too much bureaucracy on anything in Madrid, it fails.” I’d seen the graveyard. I knew exactly what she meant.
Hours later, leaving Madrid, I passed that car again. Another bumper sticker on it read, “What a long strange trip it’s been.”
For more about Madrid • Find a listing of Madrid shops and other attractions at www.turquoisetrail.org/stops/category/madrid/. • For more stories about Madrid residents, check out the trailer to Sky Fabin’s DVD, Taking the High Road to Madrid (USA) at skyfabinproductions.com/TTHRoad_main.htm. • Madrid residents have revived the mining town's July Fourth parade tradition; it generally starts at noon.
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food | comida
Cutting out the carne
Vegetarians can find high cuisine while eating low on the food chain STORY BY CRAIG SMITH PHOTOS BY KERRY SHERCK
As a longtime lover of good food, I’ve always been in synch with that wonderful song from the musical comedy Oliver! You know — the one that starts off, “Food, glorious food!” But now, since I’m transitioning into a vegetarian regimen after years of omnivore-ism, I’m not sure which lyric to pop in next. My old favorite, the original “Hot sausage and mustard,” must be left out — unless I can find a spinach sausage that almost oinks. My quandary is one that’s shared by many locals, as well as many who come to visit here during the busy summer season. Given the meat-based delights in our local eateries and the traditional pork, lamb, goat and beef dishes from norteño kitchens, is coming here to eat a plant-based diet like going to Agra and skipping the Taj Mahal? Hardly, said noted cookbook author and lover of vegetarian cuisine Deborah Madison. She said that what used to be called “the vegetarian option” is alive and well in Northern New Mexico, especially given Santa Fe’s reliable sources of fresh-from-the-field raw materials for home cookery and some restaurants devoted to vegetarian cuisine of taste and virtue. And, she emphasized, we’re talking vegetarian cooking worthy of the name — not just opening up a can of peas and dumping the contents on a plate. “I must have written a million recipes for vegetarian cooking, though I’m a total omnivore,” Madison admitted. “I’ve been writing about vegetables for 20 years and I still dream of cookies. I admit I’m picky when it comes to going out to eat. There aren’t many restaurants I’ll go to. High-end restaurants are often a disappointment: Their vegetable side dishes are usually not so good.” Madison still has some local favorites, though. “Vegetarian cooking can produce some amazing treats. I do like Jambo. I almost always have their vegetarian lentil stew. El Tesoro, a little Salvadoran restaurant (in the Sambusco shopping center), has an excellent tostada. Treehouse Café is vegetarian and local. At La Boca, there are always some amazing vegetable dishes on that menu. [Café] Pasqual’s always has something good to eat that’s vegetarian, plus it’s all organic, which is a big plus in my book.” Other noted eateries where vegetarian or vegan cooking are either regularly available or the sole menu offerings include the city’s Indian restaurants, such as India Palace, India House, and Raaga; Annapurna; Mu Du Noodles; and Asian restaurants, such as Lan’s Vietnamese Cuisine. “Lan’s is fabulous and has some amazingly good things to eat without meat, including their phos [a noodle soup that comes in many variants],” Madison said. And of course there’s Body of Santa Fe, where Madison will eat from time to time. Vegetarian in training that I am, I went there doubting and stayed to wonder. A raw vegan pumpkin cheesecake, carrot cake or pizza made with a crust derived from ground nuts is absolutely delicious. So are the vegetarian soups at Back Street Bistro. And the Plaza Cafe Southside serves one of the biggest, most superbly presented fruit plates I’ve found in town. There also are many vegetarian entrees at the small Mexican and Hispano restaurants around town. After all, the traditional Three Sisters of southwest Pueblo cookery — corn, beans and squash — provided the region’s first residents and early colonists with a wellbalanced plant-based diet even before the “V” word was used to describe it. (Some vegan foodies add another sibling, chile, to the mix with good results.) Just ask before you order to be sure that no lard or meat stock was used to create any of the dishes that interest you. For those nights you choose to eat at home, Madison’s recommendation is what many
Raw sushi at Body Cafe is made using jicama rice or nut pâté, avocado, carrot, cucumber, raw sauerkraut and sprouts.
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Breakfast burritos your way Here’s how a Northern New Mexico breakfast burrito — that happy avatar of the hand-held meal — could be interpreted by vegetarians of varied persuasions, as compared to the standard option. STANDARD: A flour tortilla encases beans, eggs and/or meat, with hot chile (green, red or Christmas) and melted cheese on top. Also in, or nearby on the plate, could be Mexican rice, beans, onion, avocado, lettuce and tomato garnish, sour cream and salsa. Lard or other animal fats likely are lurking somewhere, too. VEGETARIAN: Flour tortilla, beans or grains, veggies and chile, no meat. Laco-ovos might add eggs or cheese, inside or on top of the burrito. Sides and garnishes can be the same as for the standard option as long as cooking oil and other fats include no animal products.
A vegetable pakora at Raaga, served with tamarind chutney and mint cilantro chutney, is made using chickpea flour. This item is both vegan and gluten-free and is only available on the daily lunch buffet.
other vegetarian cooks advise: Shop fresh, local and fairtrade. For her, that means trading at the Santa Fe Farmers Market in the Railyard, or at La Montañita Co-op, or through other local vendors she’s come to know and trust. Ripe heirloom or beefsteak tomatoes, greens with the goodness of the earth coming through their rich taste, organically raised apples fresh from the tree, zucchini and carrots, squash blossoms to stuff with goat cheese (if you’re lacto-ovo) or beans — what could be better?
One tree, many branches There seem to be more differences between those who choose not to eat animal products in general, and the fine variations they then espouse, than between a fullstate version of the Hatfields and the McCoys — or the different sides in the Trojan War. In general, a vegetarian eschews animal products in his or her diet but admits everything that grows in or above the ground, or in the sea — from fruit and nuts to legumes and seaweeds, or wheat products and root vegetables. With personal exceptions, of course; the variable diets of vegetarians are multifold. Lacto-ovo vegetarians will consume eggs, butter, milk and cheese, but not meat or
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RAW VEGAN: A tortilla made of lettuce or cabbage leaves, seaweed wrap or ground nuts — or a mix of blended peppers and spinach. Inside and on the plate: everything raw that you can imagine, including sprouted beans, with most ingredients spiral-sliced into delicate curls that fall lightly onto the tongue. Even apples can have a place. Raw “cheese” made from nuts, red pepper and soy sauce or liquid amino acids also might appear if they are made following the heating and ingredient guidelines of the raw vegan diet.
fish. Other vegetarians partake of fish, possibly poultry now and then. (I’m still lurking after turkey.) Others adore certain kinds of vegetables but avoid others: sweet potatoes, yes; baking Idahos, no. Vegans, who are far stricter, have an abiding love affair with plant foods. No, not fertilizers, but fruits, nuts, legumes and vegetables from both land and sea. Some vegans also partake of cereal products, but others can’t abide them. They generally are not averse to cooking their food. Raw vegans, however, live up to their name. They exclude all animal-derived products from their diet and don’t cook the fruits, vegetables or anything else they consume. Period. I know one raw vegan who won’t even let water boil for tea: He believes subjecting anything to heat destroys the intrinsic food value. However, all three tribes, if you will, are perfectly happy with natural sweeteners. Agave syrup; pure maple syrup; stevia powder or leaves are all favored for making a green shake suggest a treat rather than a dose of medicine. Vegetarians enjoy honey — especially locally harvested honey — while vegans avoid it because it comes from living creatures.
Meat-free dining ANNAPURNA AYURVEDIC CUISINE 1620 St. Michaels Drive 988-9688 BACK STREET BISTRO 513 Camino de los Marquez 982-3500 http://backstreetbistrodailysoup.blogspot.com BODY OF SANTA FE 333 W. Cordova Road 986-0362, www.bodyofsantafe.com CAFÉ PASQUAL'S 121 Don Gaspar Ave. 983-9340, www.pasquals.com EL TESORO CAFÉ 500 Montezuma Ave., Suite 104 988-3886 INDIA HOUSE 2501 Cerrillos Road 471-2651, http://indiahousenm.com INDIA PALACE 227 Don Gaspar Ave. 986-5859 www.indiapalace.com JAMBO 2010 Cerrillos Road 473-1269 www.jambocafe.net LA BOCA 72 W. Marcy St. 982-3433 www.labocasf.com LAN'S VIETNAMESE CUISINE 2430 Cerrillos Road 986-1636 MU DU NOODLES 1494 Cerrillos Road 983-1411 www.mudunoodles.com PLAZA CAFÉ SOUTHSIDE 3466 Zafarano Drive 424-0755 www.plazacafesouth.com RAAGA 544 Agua Fría St., Unit B 820-6440 http://indianrestaurantsantafe.com THE BETTERDAY COFFEE SHOP 905 W. Alameda St. 780-8059 TREEHOUSE PASTRY SHOP/CAFÉ 1600 Lena St., Suite A2 474-5543 http://treehousepastry.com
So pull up a chair and feast away. The days are long gone, especially in Santa Fe, when eating vegetarian meant nothing but mounds of rabbit food.
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BENEDICTINE MONKS BREW
‘WITH CARE AND A PRAYER’
IN ABIQUIÚ
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Brother Augustine Seiker stirs hops into the brew.
STORY BY ADELE MELANDER-DAYTON PHOTOS BY KERRY SHERCK
Driving north up N.M. 84 toward Ensenada, it’s easy to miss Forest Service Road 151. The turnoff is dusty and faint. The road itself is one lane rutted to a washboard and crossed with intermittent cattle guards (in springtime, calves wander by the roadside), with steep hairpin turns and gravel the size of shooter marbles. This means the trip up Chama Canyon isn’t for the faint of heart. But few dirt roads in Northern New Mexico yield sweeter rewards. For 13 pleasantly slow miles, F.S. Road 151 hugs the Chama River, winding past chalky mesa cliffs and views of Pedernal, until at last it ends at the Monastery of Christ in the Desert.
IF YOU GO Monastery of Christ in the Desert P. O. Box 270 Abiquiú 801-545-8567 www.christdesert.org/
Founded in 1964 by monks from Mount Saviour Monastery in New York, Christ in the Desert is a collection of adobe and straw bale buildings (and a tall, glassy chapel, plus a huge photovoltaic array) clustered where Chama Canyon begins to narrow. The low brown structures are peaceful and modest, befitting a Benedictine monastery. But drive up the road a little farther, past the refractory and the gift shop, and you’ll find a newer, smaller building. It’s tiny, tiled and lit with fluorescent lights. The building’s sterility and sheer newness stand out against the old adobes and red sandstone dirt. This is the year-old microbrewery of Christ in the Desert, where, as a hanging vinyl banner proclaims, beer is brewed “with care and a prayer.” At the end of March, the monks were hard at work on their first production brew. This was an exciting moment: While the
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Brother Bernard Cranor in front of the gift shop and visitor center.
brewery has been used a handful of times over the past year, the monastery had been waiting on state and federal licensing to legally sell beers brewed on-site. Later this summer, they hope to open a tasting room on the property — check the website or call for current information — but until then, guests are welcome to visit the brewery. Five brothers — one dressed in full habit (long black robes) and four in shorter, shirtlength work habits worn with jeans and sneakers — moved in concert through the small room. In the center stands the three-tiered brewing sculpture: shiny stainless steel kettles (arranged in graduated heights for gravity-assisted draining), valves, burners and lots of tubing. Test tubes and droppers line one wall, and supplies (bags of sugar and grain) are stacked neatly in a storeroom. The design of the brewery is solely functional, save for a simple crucifix hanging over the sink. Abbey Beverage Company (ABC) was founded in 2004, when two Santa Fe physicians provided the startup capital. “Monasteries have to earn their own living and be economically self-sustaining,” said Berkeley Merchant, general manager of ABC. “That’s the rule of St. Benedict: ora et labora, prayer and work.” Merchant is an oblate, or a layperson who’s dedicated to the monastic way of life. His religious name is Brother Barnabas. Merchant moved to Santa Fe with his wife in 2006 after 30 years as a successful entrepreneur in Portland, Oregon, and the brothers asked if he’d like to become the monastery’s business manager. “Be careful what you pray for!”
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said Merchant, laughing. Merchant was on hand with brewmaster Brad Kraus to instruct the brothers in the exacting process of crafting a perfect brew — on this particular day, tripel, an aromatic and grain-intensive recipe that yields a high-alcohol beer. Because the operation at the monastery is small-scale, most of ABC’s brewing takes place at Sierra Blanca Brewery in Moriarty. (Even the small batches of beer brewed at Christ in the Desert will eventually travel there for carbonation and bottling.) “The goal is for the brothers to [eventually] become totally independent in brewing, but we’ll always rely on Brad for the recipes,” Merchant said. Dressed from head to toe in carefully pressed denim, Kraus has brewed all over the world and studied both beer brewing and winemaking. Locally, he’s worked for the Santa Fe Brewing Company and Blue Corn Brewery, among others, and helped found the New Mexico Association of Small Brewers (now the New Mexico Brewers Guild). It’s clear from Kraus’ easy demeanor and attention to details — temperature, the density of the barley grind — that he knows his way around a brewing sculpture. “We make the dubbel, the tripel, Monk’s Ale and Monk’s Wit,” said Krause. “They’re traditional Belgian ales; we wanted to stay in that Benedictine tradition. Monk’s Ale is similar to what typical monks would have as a daily single, but it has broader appeal, too. It’s around 5 percent [alcohol volume]. It’s approachable; it pairs well with food.”
Brother Christian Leisy stirs the barley in the mash tun.
Chama River
Hops! Different varieties grow on the monastery property.
Brother Christian holds ground barley before it’s stirred into the mash tun.
To begin brewing, Merchant and Kraus instructed three monks — Brother Christian Leisy, Brother Bernard Cranor, and Brother Augustine Seiker — in measuring and grinding precise amounts of barley. The barley grinding was loud, like ice in a blender. Then the mash-in began. Kraus changed from his cowboy boots into black waterproof brewing boots. The monks stood on a ladder and poured the ground barley into the top kettle, called the mash tun. Brother Christian stirred the grain and hot water with a white plastic paddle that looked better suited for kayaking. Aromatic barley went in last. “The process is really simple,” said Merchant. “You take the barley, grind it and then you steep it, just like you would tea.” “Ooh, it smells so good,” Brother Christian said. The whole room was warm and toasty, and it smelled sweet, like grass baking in the sun after it rains in the summertime. Even the propane delivery guy stopped in to smell the brew and peek in the mash tun. “We’re in the recirculation phase,” said Kraus. Once the mashing — the conversion of starch into sugars — was over, the wort (sweet, malted barley liquid) circulated over the top of the grain, which acted as a natural filter. Here, the meticulousness of the grinding suddenly made sense; the size of the grains must be just right for the wort to filter properly. We passed around a shot glass filled with wort, viscous and heavy like honey. “I taste all along the process,” said Kraus. “That way, you know where [the beer] is coming from
and where it’s going.” Near the end of brewing, hops are added to the tripel. “Hops actually grow wild in New Mexico,” said Merchant. “[Juan de] Oñate, in his journals, even mentions that he saw them here.” The barley may come from Wisconsin, but the hops used in ABC brews are all organic and grown by the monks in a trellised field on the property, not far from the banks of the Chama. The entire hops cycle is local and self-sustaining: Fields are irrigated with water from the Chama and nearby Gallina Creek, and grains leftover from brewing are used as compost for the crop. To see it done at Christ in the Desert, brewing is a joyful process. Everyone was serious and attentive when it came to measuring grains or keeping an eye on the temperature of the mash tun, but there was an easy camaraderie, too. As the kettles simmered, everyone chatted and swapped stories. “Sacramento wine is what kept California wineries afloat during Prohibition,” said Brother Bernard, speaking not of the city but of wine used for religious purposes. Brother Bernard is a spry 80-year-old with tortoise-shell trifocals and a full white beard. He’s been at the monastery for 21 years and has assisted on three brews so far. Brewing is an optional activity for the monks, and about 10 to 14 of 25 monks participate. “It seemed like kind of a cool thing to,” Brother Bernard said, eyeing the kettles. “I don’t consider myself a brewer — yet.”
Brothers Bernard, Christian and Augustine look into a kettle during brewing.
Brother Bernard sips warm wort.
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comida | food
Brewing up a storm BY ADELE MELANDER-DAYTON Nothing announces the arrival of sweet, sweet summer better than a fresh pint of cold beer. Fortunately, Northern New Mexico is a budding mecca for beer lovers, whether you’re a microbrew connoisseur or just starting to expand your taste buds beyond the ho-hum Bud and Coors rotation. New Mexico’s beers and the people who make them are as varied and unique as the state itself: they’re brewed in 19th-century log cabins; Santa Fe neighborhoods; and soon, on a flat expanse of dusty mesa outside Taos.
Santa Fe suds SECOND STREET BREWERY
1814 Second St. 505-982-3030 1607 Paseo De Peralta #10 505-989-3278 www.secondstreetbrewery.com With two locations (the standby on its namesake street and a newer, industrial-chic space at the Santa Fe Railyard), daily happy hour deals on pints and eclectic appetizers, Second Street Brewery epitomizes the friendly neighborhood pub. Both locations boast live music — usually on Fridays and Saturdays — open mic nights and the occasional trivia competition. The nine taps (eight at the Railyard) offer a rotating selection of Second Street’s 44 brews, including two or three mainstays augmented by other beers that change depending on the season or brewer’s whims. The light n’ bright kölsch ale tastes like the beginning of summer and is an ideal choice for breezy afternoons and warmer temperatures.
SANTA FE BREWING COMPANY
35 Fireplace Road 505-424-3333 www.santafebrewing.com Contrary to popular belief, the Santa Fe Brewing Company doesn’t have a music venue — that would be Santa Fe Sol Stage and Grill. What it does have is tasty beer and lots of it, including cans (portable and perfect for picnics and camping), introduced in 2010. For summertime, the canned selection will include the Freestyle Pilsner — so called because it doesn’t conform to a classic pilsner classification, according to general manager Alana Jones — a light lager with a hoppy afterbite, which makes it an ideal beverage for your next al fresco dinner. As an alternative to the main brewery out on N.M. 14, Eldorado folks can enjoy the satellite tasting room in the La Tienda shopping center. Although there’s no food available on site, patrons are encouraged to bring their own eats and hang out.
MARBLE BREWERY TAP ROOM
60 E. San Francisco St. 505-989-3565 marblebrewery.com/marblesantafe.html
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Take a shuffleboard table, 14 taps, pizzas from Rooftop and combine these with one of the best patios on the Plaza, and it’s no surprise that the Marble Brewery Tap Room has become one of Santa Fe’s most popular bars since its opening three years ago. Beer lovers are treated to Marble’s seven regular taps (that include yummy choices like the Wildflower Wheat, Oatmeal Stout and a pilsner that took home a bronze medal from the National Brew Fest in Denver) in addition to a rotating, seasonal selection of specials made up of guest brews from other breweries around New Mexico. Next year, Marble hopes to take its cult beers national as it expands distribution beyond the 20 states that currently carry its brews. While the Tap Room doesn’t offer live music, the summer bandstand series on the Plaza wafts up to drinkers four nights a week during the warmer months. As an added bonus, you can score free Wi-Fi while sipping your Imperial Red.
BLUE CORN CAFÉ AND BREWERY
133 Water St. 505-984-1800 4056 Cerrillos Road 505-438-1800 bluecorncafe.com Blue Corn turned 15 this April, and in honor of this momentous birthday, new head brewer John Bullard has crafted a colossal brew: the Colossal Pils, that is. Bullard cited cleaner flavors as one of his contributions to the brewery, and come summertime, he’ll add a couple of fruit brews to the mix. Check out the Facebook page for information about upcoming events (beer and small plate pairings happen regularly), along with deals and specials. The Southside location has lots of parking, seating and a sports bar vibe, while the downtown spot offers open balconies in the summertime.
IL VICINO
321 W. San Francisco St. 505-986-8700 ilvicino.com/brewery/ You probably already knew that Il Vicino serves up a tasty thin-crusted pizza, but as a bubbly bonus, the restaurant also brews all of its own beer. The Il Vicino Brewing Company in Albuquerque (with an attached canteen that serves food and has live music) keeps all four New Mexico locations stocked with its Wet Mountain IPA, American Wheat 28M, Slow Down Brown and Pigtail Pilsner. Other taps rotate often, and seasonal varieties ensure fresh beer and optimal pizza pairings. Brewer Brady McKeown recommends the dark American lager for spring and summertime sipping. He said there’s always something going on at Il Vicino. Check the website for up-to-date information.
Farther afield BLUE HERON BREWING COMPANY
2214 N.M. 68, Embudo 505-579-9188 www.blueheronbrews.com/ The nearest town is Embudo, but husband and wife co-owners of the Blue Heron Brewing
Company, Kristin and Scott Hennelly, prefer to think of their spot off N.M. 68 as Rinconada, Spanish for “corner of nowhere.” Blue Heron is hyper-local, from the hops grown by Kristin’s cousin in nearby Dixon right down to the names of the beers they brew. The brewery is run by the Hennellys with help from brewmaster Brandon Santos. In May, we’ll see the return of the seasonal maiboch, the lightest of the boch beers. A favorite standby is La Llorona Scottish Ale (a smoky beer with chocolate undertones). The big news at Blue Heron is the opening of an outdoor patio for warm-weather drinking. The patio plays host to live music on Friday and Saturday nights in the summertime (there’s music on Saturdays year-round) and to an open-mic night every other Wednesday.
THE TAOS MESA BREWING COMPANY
A pitcher of “Rod’s Best Bitter” at Second Street Brewery TAOS ALE HOUSE
20 ABC Mesa Road, El Prado www.taosmesabrewing.com/ A musician, a lawyer, a brewer and a sustainable developer walk into a bar. This isn’t the beginning of a bad joke; it’s the business plan behind the almost-open Taos Mesa Brewing Company, a 5,000 square foot brewery and music venue. Brewer Jason Wylie is all set to begin brewing at the state-of-the-art and totally green, solar-powered facility (designed by developer Peter Kolshorn) and hopes to have beer ready to go by Memorial Day Weekend. The idea for a music space first took root a few years ago when lawyer Gary Feuerman and musician Dan Irion (of Taos band Last to Know) were traveling in a caravan up to Colorado for a String Cheese Incident show; they talked about opening their own music venue on a mesa near Taos. An encounter with Wylie and Kolshorn at the Arroyo Seco Fourth of July parade led to a speedy and serendipitous meeting of the minds. Taos Mesa Brewery is located on N.M. 64, three miles from the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge.
401 Paseo de Pueblo Norte, Taos 575-758-5522 taosalehouse.com/ It’s been a busy year for Jesse Cook, the brewmaster and owner of the Taos Ale House. Since its opening last August, the Taos Ale House has experimented with different brews, culinary offerings and outdoor seating setups. Cook has developed more than 25 beer recipes, which he’s gradually winnowing down to a few choice favorites. For now, nuanced, personal recipes like the simple porter are popular, along with the Mogul Imperial IPA and the Stone Lake IPA, named for a fishing spot near Dulce. Sports fans, take note: The Ale House boasts a “really nice flat screen” and what Cook said is the only NFL package in town. If you’re not up for catching the game, local bands like Boris and the Salt Licks occasionally perform. And to address those hanging-out-in-the-afternoon-sunwithout-getting-fried needs, look for a covered portal to accent the patio in summer 2012.
ESKE’S BREW PUB AND RESTAURANT
COMANCHE CREEK BREWING COMPANY
106 Des Georges Lane, Taos 575-758-1517 www.eskesbrewpub.com/ Eske’s Brew Pub and Restaurant is the bestknown and longest-established brewery north of Santa Fe. Microbrew enthusiasts shouldn’t miss tasting its fragrant green chile beer, or the Eske Special Bitter, made from 95 percent organic grains. The food is a draw in its own right — try world cuisine Thursday (Indian, Greek and other globally adventurous dishes) or, for a change of pace, sushi Tuesday. Eske’s is turning 20 this September, and news for 2012 includes the removal of guest beers and wines from the menu, due to changes in licensing laws. But Eske’s fans shouldn’t worry too much; the pub will still have plenty of its own beers on hand. In fact, brewer Chris Jones is working on a gluten-free brew for celiac-suffering beer lovers. Check out the lively and oft-updated Facebook page for Eske’s devotee discussion and drool-worthy pictures of blue plate specials and foamy heads of beer.
225 Comanche Creek Road, Eagle Nest 575-377-2337 comanchecreekbrewingco.com/ Homebrewers Kody and Tasha Mutz crossed the border from Colorado and settled in Eagle Nest to open Comanche Creek Brewing Company at the homestead of Kody’s great-grandfather. (You can still see the log cabin he built as a blacksmithing shop some 100 years ago.) While microbrewery competition is stiff in Colorado, from the Mutzes’ gorgeous perch at the foot of the Sangre de Cristos, there are no rivals in sight. The Mutzes use pure mountain water as the foundation for their beers — rugged, appropriately named brews like Homestead Amber, Touch-Me-Not IPA and Deadman Pale Ale. In the summertime, Kody brews fruit beers: This year’s plans include raspberry wheat and honey cherry. “We’ve had great support from the community,” said Kody, citing the Pike Tournament and the High Country Arts Festival in Eagle Nest as fun events where they’ve offered a tasting table. “And we love having people come out to the patio.” (ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY SEAN BRANDER)
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comida | food
From bordello to fine dining From brasserie to bucking bronco, the guard changes, but The Palace still stands STORY BY JOHN VOLLERTSEN PHOTOS BY KERRY SHERCK
Although the address is not quite as notorious as 109 E. Palace Ave. — where scientists and military men and women were cleared to work in the secret atomic world at Los Alamos in the 1940s — The Palace restaurant at 142 W. Palace Ave. has easily had as historic an impact on our fair city — minus the nuclear fission. In a year when New Mexico celebrates its 100th birthday and Santa Fe its 401st, this landmark establishment continues to set herself apart from our foodie town’s other 200-plus restaurants by constantly reinventing herself, changing out the culinary talents, painting or flocking the walls, and striving to keep the old-timers happy while luring the young and trendy through the swinging doors. A vast array of characters has helped form The Palace’s rich history. Perhaps most notorious was Doña Maria Gertrudis Barcelo, aka La Doña Tules, a Mexican woman who established a saloon on the site circa 1835. Until her death in 1853, La Doña ran The Palace as a gambling joint (with rumors of more intimate entertainment upstairs). Historical records describe her as more handsome than a beauty, and one can only surmise that she must have had an amazing presence to successfully run such a business when Santa Fe was still part of the Wild West.
Owners from afar The many operators of the long-lived eatery have spanned the globe. The building as it stands today opened in 1961 under the ownership of a French couple named Charles and Mimi Besre. Two sets of proprietors later, restaurateur Lino Pertusini, an Italian, took over. Pertusini, who owned and operated The Palace for 18 years, is happy to share what he thinks gave the restaurant
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its draw in its glory days. “In those days that part of town was the center of Santa Fe living,” he said. “There was a gas station across the street, a parking lot and Safeway. People would do their banking on the Plaza and walk down to shop [and] it was easy to park. We would do 200 lunches and 400 dinners [a day].” Pertusini, who now owns both Pizzeria da Lino and Osteria d’Assisi, has many fond memories of the halcyon years he operated the place. “We brought in an Italian designer to host a fashion show in the dining room. [You have to] realize that in those days there were only a handful of dining options. Customers would arrive for dinner [before the] opera and be all dressed up; it was an event. We were lucky; we had a very loyal and consistent following.” Though many might remember Pertusini’s menu as being Italian, he considered it more Continental, with Caesar salads assembled at the table. “For a time,” Pertusini said, “I had both a Frenchman and an Austrian working as chefs in different stations in the kitchen. They were iincredibly competitive with each other, always trying to outdo one another; the food they put out was fantastic.” Roland Richter, chef-owner of Joe’s Diner and Pizza, got his culinary start in Santa Fe at The Palace under Pertusini. “I interviewed with all of the major restaurants in town,” he said, “with Mark Miller at The Coyote Café, at SantaCafé and The Compound, but took The Palace job with Lino because I liked the idea of working with a hands-on operator. I liked how Lino’s brothers Bruno and Pietro were all involved.” Richter, who is German-born, had just arrived in the States from Toronto. When Lino sold The Palace in 2003 to focus on his new venture, Osteria d’Assisi, he was able to bring many of his staff to his second project. “I had a bartender that worked for me for 27 years,” he recalled. And, like The Palace, the building that houses the Osteria was also a house of illrepute. “I see a trend here,” he chuckled. The next owners of The Palace included a successful
New York restaurateur named Jean DeNoyer, local businessman Eddie Gilbert and chef Alain Jorand, who today heads up the cuisine at Adobo Catering. “Our original plan was to reopen The Palace as a French brasserie similar to the ones DeNoyer was famous for,” Jorand recalled. “A massive [$2 million] renovation took place. … We took over in December and opened in January, sadly missing the holiday season. The menu was primarily French with a few New Mexico dishes. We flew in Dover sole and offered dishes like osso buco, lobster with vanilla beurre blanc, and côte du boeuf. Fairly quickly I discovered that we all were not in agreement on what the food should be and I left the project by April, followed by DeNoyer a short time later. After that I took a break from cooking and sold cars.” After the French departed, Gilbert drew Geronimo owner Cliff Skoglund and its chef Eric DiStefano into the project. Skoglund envisioned The Palace returning to its Italian heritage with the help of DiStefano’s modern spin on the popular cuisine. “We set out to return The Palace to its former glory and it was fun for me to be cooking some of those classics,” DiStefano said. “Our most popular dish was spaghetti and meatballs, and regulars would come in to the kitchen and ask me to prepare their favorites dishes.” The restaurant was given a cosmopolitan makeover with flat screen TVs scattered around the room showing Italian “art” films, many of which boasted muscular men in various degrees of undress going through what might be described as wrestling moves. “I remember being there and there were two older ladies from Santa Fe society dining while that soft porn was playing over their shoulders,” Pertusini recalled with a hearty laugh. “I think the décor was a stretch for some people,” DiStefano added, “and not everybody was digging it.” A year later, Skoglund abandoned the Italian theme and adopted a modern Southwestern saloon concept that he hoped could become the model for a chain
Risotto cake with portobello mushroom syrup, Parma prosciutto and Parmigiano-Reggiano — and Señor Lucky’s was born. Stylish cowboy motifs replaced any trace of the room’s original design, with a mechanical bucking bull placed center stage in the dining room to attract a decidedly different clientele from the days of yore. Nonstop concept-hopscotching eventually saw the closure of Señor Lucky’s in 2007. Skoglund moved on to Scottsdale, Arizona, while DiStefano continues to wow locals and visitors alike with his Coyote Café and Geronimo. (He plans to open a new venture, Stats, a sports bar, in the old Swig location across from The Palace this summer.)
Where everybody knows your name After Señor Lucky hit the trail, the historic location sat empty for four years. Many chefs and restaurateurs flirted with the idea of reviving The Palace, but it wasn’t until April 2011 that entrepreneur David Bigby took over the lease and invested yet another million-plus to breathe life back into the grande dame. Bigby’s secret weapon was nationally celebrated chef Joseph Wrede, former owner of the popular Joseph’s Table in Taos. Wrede originally dabbled with Italian touches on the menu before deciding to embrace a more American approach. “The Palace has been a challenge because it meant so many things to so many people. I have realized that the bar is its own entity [separate] from the restaurant. Because of its history, there is definitely a good feng shui happening... “I feel as though I am slowly picking up on my cooking where I left off at Joseph’s Table,” he said. “American cooking now encompasses so many ethnic cuisines. It is exciting and risky taking on an establishment like The Palace. It’s interesting to think how urban it has always been in a relatively rural area.” With all remnants of the bucking bull gone, The Palace’s new décor pays tribute to its former incarnation: The red-flecked wallpaper and saloon feel are back.
Though Bigby had no previous restaurant experience, he, like his predecessors, had a vision. “When I retired … I wanted to do a business that connected me to the community in Santa Fe,” Bigby said. “A lot of my friends had fond memories of The Palace as a local institution and encouraged me to renew and revitalize it. My wife, Barbara, is an artist and helped with design ideas and painted pictures to hang in the dining room. We set out to blend the old with some new, the Spanish with some contemporary.” Even the spirit of Doña Tules watches over Bigby’s new Palace in the form of a portrait painted by Barbara. Bartender Lynn Otero said it seems like every day a former employee stops in for a meal and memories. “They tell me about high school proms, parties and family celebrations — and many still remember a Cuban bartender named Alfonso who worked here for 30 years.” Otero also looks after the “Wax Museum Boys,” headed by former Santa Fe Mayor Sam Pick, who are regulars at her bar. “We call ourselves [the Wax Museum Boys] because we have all known each other for so long,” Pick said. “I like to think of The Palace as a Santa Fe version of the Cheers bar from the TV show. My buddies and I have been coming here since the 1970s. Of course it has closed a few times, and we weren’t into wearing cowboy hats during the bucking bull days, but I think the folks at the new Palace are doing a great job.” Pick celebrated his 76th birthday at The Palace in March surrounded by 100 of his closest friends and compadres. From the early years when a raucous card game presided over by Doña Tules could be enjoyed by cowboys, ranchers, traders, military officers and merchants (with the promise of a slap and tickle upstairs), through its fancy dress and dining days to urban cowboys riding a mechanical bull, The Palace has prevailed. With good food, good feng shui and a good location, everything old is new again.
From the top, the saloon at The Palace The exterior and entrance to The Palace Restaurant The Palace executive chef Joseph Wrede, seated in the restaurant’s dining room
DETAILS THE PALACE RESTAURANT AND SALOON 142 W. Palace Ave., Santa Fe 505-428-0690 www.palacesantafe.com
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food | comida
Eating at the extremes
Northern New Mexico’s far-flung communities offer local specialties STORY BY HEATHER WOOD PHOTOS BY KERRY SHERCK
Estella’s Café lights up Las Vegas Located on Bridge Street in Las Vegas, New Mexico, just steps from Plaza Park, Estella’s Café beckons with a neon sign from the past. The restaurant, founded by Luis and Estella Gonzales, has been at this location since 1953 and is now run by their daughter Abelita Lujan and her son Zachary. The dining room’s pressed-tin ceiling and floor-to-ceiling shelving are reminiscent of an early 20th-century mercantile store, and Abelita is now sorting through artifacts in the basement, some of which pre-date her grandparents. “It’s been an adventure,” she said. “Every single letter, receipt and card is down here. It’s a history lesson.” Estella’s menu is built on popular local dishes, such as the best-selling handmade chile rellenos stuffed with Monterey jack cheese, dipped in a light egg batter and deep fried, then topped with salsa or smothered in your choice of red or green chile. “The
batter is so light that they’re crispy; that’s why they are so popular,” Abelita said. The flautas are served with either beef, chicken, pork or chicharones (longsimmered fried pork fat — try them before you turn your nose up). “Our flautas are different,” Abelita said. “They’re served like soft tacos with a little bit of onion and tomatoes — and guacamole and sour cream on the side.” Abelita and Zachary, “the recipe man,” are adding some more contemporary offerings to the menu, like beef sliders prepared from 100 percent organic, grass-fed beef from a nearby ranch. This popular addition is topped with grilled onions and homemade pickles and served on a home-baked bun. The team also has added “Chef’s Choice Dinner Specials” to the menu that change frequently and include pasta dishes. They’re venturing into the breakfast scene with huevos rancheros, home-baked goods and fair-trade coffee. For dessert, try the natillas much loved by norteños — a cinnamon-scented egg custard. “When movies are being filmed around Las Vegas, the cast and crew eat here,” Abelita said. “They love the green chile stew.”
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As El Paragua grew, it expanded into a former ranch building and wrapped around a tree instead of cutting it down. The tree now stands like a paragua (umbrella) over the restaurant.
Why should you make a special trip to Española to eat at El Paragua? “Because of the food! The food is homemade, everything is prepared in house” — JOSE ATENCIO
The lantern stays lit in El Rito Thirty years ago, when Dennis Trujillo and his sister started El Farolito restaurant, it seemed natural to welcome locals and travelers alike with a lantern — el farolito — in the window. Now their little light welcomes thousands of diners every year, including celebrities Shirley MacLaine, Marsha Mason, Susan Sarandon and former Gov. Bill Richardson. The restaurant is a family affair. Dennis and son Dominic man the range. Mom, Carmelita, is in charge of the handmade tamales and chile rellenos. Dominic’s sister, Marisol, and his wife, Andrea, pitch in, too, as do their two children. People travel for miles to choose from more than four pages of homemade New Mexican and American specialties. Hungry? You can’t go wrong with the bestselling No. 5 combo plate. which nets you one enchilada, one chile relleno, rice, beans and two sopapillas. Or try the Farolito burger, cooked to order and topped with green chile, cheddar cheese and bacon and served with mayo, mustard, pickles and onions. The chile rellenos are wrapped in a flourless meringue-like batter and smothered in red or green chile. There’s a special kid’s menu for los niños. Soft drinks are available and the restaurant boasts a server’s license that allows diners to bring their own brown bag of wine or beer to enjoy with their meal. El Farolito is small — just eight tables seating 32 diners. Reservations aren’t necessary, but Dominic asks that large parties call ahead to give them a heads-up. “We’re small enough to pay attention,” noted Dominic, which is no doubt a large part of their recipe for success.
A tree grows through El Paragua Why should you make a special trip to Española to eat at El Paragua? “Because of the food! The food is homemade, everything is prepared in house,” said Jose Atencio, one of nine members of the Atencio family that runs this Northern
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New Mexico restaurant. “Plus it’s a historic building, with ambience, atmosphere and a tree growing through it.” Frances and Luis Atencio started the restaurant in 1966 after selling tacos and tamales from a roadside cart covered with a parasol. As they grew, they expanded into what was originally a tack room in one of Jose’s grandfather’s ranch buildings. “Dad was the builder and bartender and Mom was the cook,” Atencio said. “They knew nothing about the restaurant business, but they made it work. They just kept adding on — the tree used to be outside the restaurant, but instead of cutting it down, they just built around it.” That beloved tree stands like a paragua (umbrella) over the restaurant, and people come from far and wide to sit around it in the bar. Perennial best-sellers at El Paragua include the chile rellenos that are made one at a time with freshly roasted green chiles, stuffed with tomato and onion, dipped in a light egg batter and fried, then smothered with cheddar and Monterey jack. The enchiladas supremo feature chicken enchiladas with red or green chile (or both) topped with sour cream. And the award-winning beef tacos are available in soft or crispy shells, topped with house-made salsa. “We make our flour tortillas on a wood stove in the front of the restaurant,” Atencio said. “We even make our own chips.” Breakfast is served on Saturday and Sunday only. It features a waffle bar with a variety of toppings, the “Buenos Dias Combo” — a hearty plate of enchiladas, fried potatoes and eggs — house-made menudo and smothered breakfast burritos with homemade chorizo. The full bar is known for its made-from-scratch margaritas, but you also can peruse the five-page wine list, which features vino from Portugal, Spain, France, California and other places, as well as domestic and imported beers. Homemade flan, natillas and raisin-bread pudding will satisfy your sweet tooth.
IF YOU GO ESTELLA’S CAFÉ 148 Bridge St., Las Vegas 505-454-0048; call to confirm hours Cash and local checks only; no credit cards Monday-Wednesday 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Thursday-Friday 10 a.m.-8 p.m. Saturday 10 a.m.-3 p.m. closed Sunday
EL FAROLITO RESTAURANT 1212 Main St., El Rito 575-581-9509 Cash and local checks only; no credit cards Closed Monday Tuesday-Friday 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 4:30-7 or 8 p.m. (depending on how busy) Saturday and Sunday 11:30 a.m. or noon to 7 or 7:30 p.m. (depending on how busy)
EL PARAGUA 603 Santa Cruz Road, Española, at the corner of U.S. 285 and County Road 76 505-753-3211 www.ElParagua.com Reservations are recommended on weekends Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m.-9 p.m. (breakfast ends at 1 pm)
CAN YOU SAY road trip? travel our
ENCHANTING NEW MEXICO art trails! !
new mexico fiber arts trails A Guide to Rural Fiber Arts Destinations | www.nmfiberarts.org
!
artistic vistas and treasures Studios & Galleries from Taos Canyon east to Angel Fire and Cimarron | www.artisticvistas.org
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ancient way arts trail Artisans along Route 53: Gallup to Zuni to Grants | www.ancientwayartstrail.com
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trails & rails Arts and Heritage in Valencia County | www.artsandheritagenm.com
E
njoy a remarkable variety of chamber music jewels performed
by world-class musicians, including
our 2012 Artist-in-Residence, Alan Gilbert — the critically acclaimed music director of the New York Philharmonic.
Join us for this
MileStone SeaSon For Tickets and Information
888.221.9836 — or 505.982.1890 — SantaFeChamberMusic.com toll free
of except ional music-making JUL 15 - AUG 20
2012
Intimate. Compelling. Unforgettable. Marc Neikrug, Artistic Director
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New Mexico statehood collectible issue available at The New Mexican
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4 RIL 193 CHTEN
, 12 AP
Legendary and living
CARL V AN VE
Taos celebrates its remarkable women BY TANIA CASSELLE
This year’s Remarkable Women of Taos Mabel D odge Lu ja
program celebrates the adventurous, creative, and often groundbreaking women who have
n
made their home in this small mountain town, whether they were born here or drawn here.
It’s a vintage year for the town of Taos to pick remarkable women as a theme, coinciding with the centennial of the births of two prominent Taos artists: the internationally acclaimed Agnes Martin and modernist Beatrice Mandelman. 2012 also marks 50 years since the death of Mabel Dodge Luhan, who had such an impact introducing creative types and thinkers to Taos. The Taos community already knows that the women who choose to live in this beautiful but challenging environment tend to be strong, independent, resourceful and open to change. What draws or keeps such women in Taos? Some say the land, some say the rs t Rodge n e c light, the mountain, the history, the people, li il M the creative vibe, the feeling that you can be yourself here and achieve your true E F L WOL E DA H purpose. Who knows? But talk to any woman LOUIS who has transplanted herself to Taos and so often you hear the same story. They visited Taos once — on vacation, a road trip, visiting friends — and something about Taos grabbed them, shook them, and wouldn’t let go. They returned to their cities, their normal lives, their successful careers, but Taos kept whispering, calling them back. Next thing, they’ve moved to the high desert. Often they reinvent themselves once they arrive. As actress Marsha Mason said at the Remarkable Women of Taos program launch, it was the spirit of the creative and adventurous women who’d gone before that inspired her to believe “I could literally throw up the pieces of my life and see how they came down.” Mason lives in Abiquiú, within sight of Georgia O’Keeffe’s house, and she’s certainly made a huge change, becoming an organic farmer and creator of the Resting in the River range of herbal products. “When I came here I was one person, and now I’m a much Agnes M artin bigger person because of my experiences in New Mexico. When I go back to film, TV and theater work, I bring so much more.” CO L L EC TION TH One year is almost too short to pay respect to the E H A RW O C O U RT E S
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Y MILDR
O D MU S E UM O F ART, ED TOLB E RT A R C HIVES
women past and present who have been officially selected as outstanding in their fields. Program organizers have received more than 350 nominations (and counting) for the honor. For each woman nominated, you can bet a dozen others are equally worthy of the title in a town where women go about their business, pursuing their art, their activism, or simply the role of being a good mother and community member, always ready with a helping hand. And unlike the early heiresses who made their home in Taos, today’s remarkable women usually have to work to support their passion, doing the “Taos shuffle” to make a living, often juggling several jobs. Profiles of all the legendary and living women working in the arts, business, outdoors and well-being categories can be found at http://taos.org/women. But let’s introduce a few as an example of the range of remarkable women you’ll encounter or hear about on a visit to Taos.
Mabel Dodge Luhan Pioneering promoter Famed as the hostess of a New York City salon of artists and intellectuals, the wealthy Mabel Dodge Sterne arrived in Taos with her avant-garde ideas in 1917. There she met the man of her dreams — literally. Mabel claimed that when she met Taos Pueblo member Tony Lujan — his name was spelled Lujan, but she spelled hers with an “h” so her friends would pronounce it correctly — she recognized him at once, as he’d previously appeared to her in a dream. Both were married to other people at the time, but love, and certainly Mabel, never let such inconveniences stand in the way. The couple soon married, and Mabel bought land bordering Taos Pueblo, expanding a small property into what is now the Mabel Dodge Luhan House. She recreated her New York salon, inviting prominent artistic, literary and intellectual figures to Taos — in fact, insisting they come to Taos — to experience the unspoiled beauty, local culture and inspiration she found there. Her guests included D.H. Lawrence, Georgia O’Keeffe, Willa Cather, Ansel Adams, Carl Jung and Spud Johnson. Today, the Mabel Dodge Luhan House is a bed-andbreakfast inn and conference center, hosting workshops by artists and authors including Natalie Goldberg, another remarkable woman who lived and wrote for many years in Taos; she is acclaimed for the best-seller Writing Down the Bones: Freeing the Writer Within, and her novel Banana Rose evocatively captures the Taos hippie era. Visitors can stay in Mabel’s own room — and sleep in her handsome bed — as well as in other rooms named for the famous people who once occupied them. (www.mabeldodgeluhan.com.)
along the road | por el camino er Kim Treib
Jacqueline Gala All that glitters The Taos Pueblo silversmith and jewelry designer was already selling her work at the pueblo when she was selected for the invitational Originals 2007: New Mexico Women in the Arts in Taos, one of only two silversmiths in the show. Gala’s reputation took off and her work now appears in Santa Fe’s New Mexico History Museum and at markets including the prestigious Heard Museum Guild Indian Fair & Market in Phoenix. She draws inspiration from her Taos Pueblo and Hopi heritage to create her beautifully contemporary collection of jewelry and has come a long way since she first went into a Santa Fe art store with $100, telling them she wanted to solder. “They helped me put together what I needed. And I melted it all!” After some burning/melting trial and error, she learned how to work with metal. “It moved me so much that I can design around a piece of stone that I cut.” Gala is still getting used to her work being bought by collectors all over the world — she’s blown away when she spots a woman wearing it — and she’s still shy enough that her boyfriend submitted her work to a juried show in Florida without her knowing. She was chosen for that too. But Gala is also encouraged by other women coming out of the pueblo and achieving recognition; she’s especially proud of Maria Samora. “I look at her like… wow! If she’s doing it, I’m doing it too.” Before work goes to market, Gala follows the ritual of a jeweler friend who puts each piece on the ground “so our Mother Earth can wear it and all our ancestors who went before us can get to wear the jewelry before it goes out there. I thought that was really sweet, so I do a lot of that when I’ve finished with all my work. I lay it on the ground and do a little blessing and send it on its way.” (http://jacquelinegala.com)
Kim Ann Treiber-Thompson Musical groove Kim Treiber made Taos her home in 1983. She’s produced and acted in many plays, from Hamlet to Hair, but is best known as a musician. Treiber can check off a long list of local bands she’s performed with over the years, but she found a groove heading Kim and the Caballeros, playing up a storm of “big ol’ twangy country music” with the band including her husband Chipper Thompson. Visitors can hear Kim and the Caballeros at various venues around town, including the Adobe Bar at the Taos Inn and the Anaconda bar at El Monte Sagrado. Treiber co-founded The Dreamtree project in Taos, a nonprofit serving New Mexico youth in need, and she also pursues photography. She still finds time to take to the trails on horseback, describing riding in the great outdoors as a time to “rejuvenate, feed my soul.” (www.kimandthecaballeros.com)
SOME ‘REMARKABLE’ EVENTS The Remarkable Women program features exhibitions, talks and events through the year. One highlight is the exhibit Agnes Martin: Before the Grid, on display at the Harwood Museum of Art until June 17, 2012. This is the debut showing for many of Martin’s early works. While you’re there, don’t miss the permanent gallery built specially to house seven paintings donated by Martin in the years when she lived in Taos until her death in 2004. It’s a beautiful and meditative space, and Martin herself would often sit in contemplation here. During her Taos years, she was an inspiration to younger artists through her art, work ethic and encouragement. Fine art photographer Lenny Foster, a new kid on the Taos block at the time, recalls lunching with Martin at The Trading Post — one of her favorite haunts. “She’d have a steak and a margarita, I’d have lunch, and she’d never let me pay. She wouldn’t hear it,” Foster said. He always remembers her advice on art. “She told me to keep it simple … the way you live your life, the way you create your art.” Exhibits at the Millicent Rogers Museum throughout 2012 celebrate female artists and the legacy of Millicent Rogers, the Standard Oil heiress who settled in Taos in 1947 (recovering from a breakup with Clark Gable!). Rogers was a passionate advocate of Native American arts, and, as a fashion icon, adopted local styles of dress and jewelry, putting her stamp on Southwest style. Her extensive collection of Native American jewelry, textiles and other objects is on display in the museum. The show Millicent Rogers & Her Circle (June 1 to September 9) covers Rogers’ relationships with women including Dorothy Brett, the British painter and close friend of D.H. Lawrence, and Mabel Dodge Luhan. Before heading to the museum, it’s worth reading the recently published biography Searching for Beauty: The Life of Millicent Rogers by Taos author Cherie Burns. Proving that history doesn’t have to be dull, Burns brings Rogers to life in the book described by the Wall Street Journal as a “bracing, sex-andshopping account.” The program also includes the Taos modernist Beatrice Mandelman Centennial at the Harwood Museum of Art from July 7 to October 14, a series of talks at the Taos Public Library and a host of other events, talks, tours and performances as the community picks up on the Remarkable Women theme. Details at taos.org/women.
Jacquelin
e Gala
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along the road | por el camino
HIGH ART
AN ART SCENE
THRIVES IN THE MOUNTAIN TOWN OF TRUCHAS
BY WOLF SCHNEIDER
After 22 years in a downtown Santa Fe location, Rey Móntez moved his Móntez Gallery to the tiny town of Truchas last year. While it might have seemed that he was dropping out of the gallery scene, it looked otherwise to artists already based in this far-flung mountaintop village of 611 people; to them, it was an indication that their art colony was growing. Although remote Truchas might seem like an unlikely art hub, situated an hour’s drive north of Santa Fe on the rugged High Road to Taos, it has its own quirky way of attracting artistic and intellectual people. “My father died in a hospital [where he had] a roommate from Truchas,” Móntez said. When Móntez paid his respects to the roommate’s family, he noticed that the village’s 100-year-old adobe church appeared unoccupied. “I’m the guy who represents the saint makers from Northern New Mexico and southern Colorado, and I
PHOTO BY LOREY SEBASTIAN
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IF YOU GO
Hand Artes Gallery
Guatemalan Madonna at Móntes Gallery
Móntez Gallery 108 2012 Bienvenidos
thought the church would be the perfect place to display and sell their work,” he said. And so he moved his gallery of santos and bultos to the vacant church. Now that he has had a chance to visit the town’s other art galleries — which wasn’t hard, as most are found on the milelong stretch of road that runs through town — Móntez even suggested that some Truchas art “is on equal footing with Canyon Road and downtown Santa Fe.” Consider painter-sculptor-potter Ramon Cortina, who has done art restoration for the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C. He moved into his 100-year-old adobe 10 years ago, transforming it into Cortina Fine Art Gallery. Figurative paintings, coasters, sage burners and bread plates fill the gallery. Cortina is as interested in thoughtful conversation as he is in selling art. “If you want to talk about string theory and quantum physics, let’s go,” he offered. “Politics, war, philosophy — I’m an existentialist. I don’t believe in male gods, but I do believe goddesses reign supreme, and all of this is reflected in my art.” A few blocks away, Bill G. Loyd welds architectural bells and sculptures from industrial steel castoffs. Priced from $160 to $1,000, the colorful bells emit meditative tones that linger. When he isn’t outside making art, he’s inside reading Rolling Stone, Art in America and Tricycle: The Buddhist Review. “It’s a loose mesh of people up here,” he said of the town. “We’re independent. I can fix about anything except a computer.” Elevating the whole Truchas art scene is the CardonaHine Gallery, representing expressionist Alvaro CardonaHine and abstract landscapist Barbara McCauley in a sophisticated exhibition space with gallery lighting on high white walls reaching to a slanted roof. She listens to Leonard Cohen and he used to conduct the Grand Rapids Symphony. They read The New Yorker, watch PBS and quietly tap into the local zeitgeist. “I love living in a place where the people are deeply connected to the land and there’s a respect for nature,” McCauley said. Nature is emphasized at Hand Artes Gallery too. Opened by Bill Franke in 1987, it now represents 20 artists, mostly from Northern New Mexico. “By the mid-’80s, the tourist traffic was growing as a result of publicity for the High Road concept begun by then-state
Hand Artes Gallery
MÓNTEZ GALLERY 505-689-1082, www.montezsantafe.com CORTINA FINE ART GALLERY 505-689-1123, yessy.com/djvolatile2/gallery.html BILL G. LOYD 505-689-1090, www.gongwiththewind.net CARDONA-HINE GALLERY 505-689-2253, www.cardonahinegallery.com HAND ARTES GALLERY 505-689-2443, www.handartesgallery.com GHOST PONY GALLERY 505-689-1704, www.ghostponygallery.com ANNA KARIN GALLERY 505-689-1090, www.annakaringallery.com ISABRO ORTEGA 505-689-2581 THE CORDOVAS HANDWEAVING WORKSHOP 505-689-1124 eL GALLERY 505-689-1018, www.ericluplow.com Senator Arturo Jaramillo.” he said. “Our focus is work inspired by nature.” At Anna Karin Gallery, there are graceful realist paintings by Swedish-born Karin along with abstract works by Jeane George Weigel, who writes an evocative blog at www.high-road-artist.com. “Being an artist in Truchas is not for the faint of heart,” Weigal said. That makes sense, given that the nearest café open some days is a 20-minute drive away in either Peñasco or Chimayó. Talented master woodcarver Isabro Ortega, who has lived here all his life, carves everything from doors, windows and ceilings to coffins and crosses, and he operates out of a rustic, castle-like structure. “The whole cemetery is full of my crosses,” he said. “I love Truchas — it’s away from the world.” The Cordovas Handweaving Workshop, a longtime family business near the town’s entrance, has been run by Harry Cordova for 42 years. He quipped, “There isn’t a lot of pressure and stress and I don’t have a 401(k), but the air is good, it’s pure, and I didn’t have to fight anybody but the gophers for a parking space.”
Nearby is Ghost Pony Gallery, with botanical paintings by South Africa-raised Leonardo Pieterse and mixed-media Western iconography by Trish Booth. With more than a dozen galleries in Truchas, the most dynamic might be eL Gallery, owned by 6-foot-3 Eric Luplow, a watercolorist who has trademarked the term “Sur-Folk” to describe his vibrant paintings merging surrealism with folk art. Luplow describes himself as being “left of the dial — you know, down there with the public radio stations.” With credits including work in the movie Spy Kids and gallery shows throughout Texas, he moved here 12 years ago because, he said, “Truchas is open to anything and everything, and that’s the beauty of it. You’re not judged to be in a straight line. Truchas is actually a pretty crooked line, meaning anything and everything works.” Skeleton art, posters, CD covers — Luplow does it all. Originally attracted to the area because The Milagro Beanfield War was filmed there, Luplow said, “We’re pretty high up there! Every day — looking at the clouds, the sun, taking the dog for a walk and seeing the horses and cows — Truchas has got its own reality.”
Alvaro Cardona-Hind
A little fish story Situated at 8,400 feet in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, tiny Truchas (“trout” in Spanish)emerged as a Spanish land grant in 1754, its name prompted by the river that runs through the area and irrigates the land. This community was shaped by Spanish settlers who established an agricultural lifestyle there. The main road through town finally was paved in the 1970s. Cars still must share that road with livestock according to land grant bylaws — and yes, a herd of horses does occasionally clatter through. Truchas is located on N.M. 76 and County Road 75 north of Santa Fe. — WS
Bill Loyd’s bells
Anna Karin Gallery
Anna Karin
Ramon Cortina 2012 Bienvenidos 109
Chama River at Abiquiú (Watercolor, 18”x24”)
Road trippin’ Northern New Mexico BY PATRICIA GREATHOUSE PAINTINGS BY RICHARD C. SANDOVAL
Where can visitors turn for a true experience of Northern New Mexico once the galleries, farmers market, museums, restaurants, opera and Plaza begin to pale? Where can you find friendly little towns, pristine wilderness and refreshingly clean air?
Pedernal, O’Keeffe Country (Watercolor, 18”x24”)
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A short drive up the road toward Georgia O’Keeffe’s old stamping grounds, life is slower and the crowds number in the single digits. There, you can get lost in contemplation or find yourself anew, far from the bustle and jostle of Santa Fe. This trip is a lesson in balance, a short exercise in meeting New Mexico and New Mexicans outside the “Santafelandia” experience. While it’s not possible to take in all the sights in a single day, it is possible to pack in a satisfying variety of stops — and, if you like what you see, come back another day to complete the trip. Start by driving north up U.S. 84/285. Once you’re over the Tesuque hill, the vista opens up. Remember the end of Crazy Heart where Jeff Bridges and Maggie Gyllenhaal stand and watch the sunset? That’s the view from the Santa Fe Opera. Barrancas and mesas roll out into the distance and the mountains behind them layer into the horizon: That’s where we’re headed.
along the road | por el camino
Georgia O’Keeffe Country, Abiquiú, NM (Watercolor, 48” x 24”)
ONE NEED NOT TRAVEL FAR TO FIND SOLITUDE, OPEN VISTAS The names of the villages and towns on our route reflect their strong Native American and Spanish heritage: Tesuque, Cuyamungue, Pojoaque, Arroyo Seco, La Mesilla, Española, San Jose, Hernandez, La Cuachia, Chili, Medanales. The farther from Santa Fe you go, the less planned things look, although the casinos, called “the new buffalo” by some tribes, look prosperous.
Boundless beauty The first option is a stop for lunch at the well-appointed Ó Eating House in Pojoaque. It serves great thin-crust pizzas, sandwiches and salads. If you stop here, check out the Pueblo of Pojoaque’s Poeh Museum next door with its permanent Roxanne Swentzell sculpture exhibit. Or continue on to La Cocina, a friendly, family run Northern New Mexican restaurant in Española. It’s right on your way: Take a left onto the Santa Clara Bridge Road at Dandy Burger. Look for La Cocina across the bridge on the right. Just a couple of blocks from La Cocina, you’ll find the Española Valley Fiber Arts Center. Take a right at the light after La Cocina, then another right at the next light; it’s in the middle of the block on the left. You’ll find beautiful fibers and weavings at the center, many using local wool. Everything here is handmade and very reasonably priced. Back on 84/285 about six miles north of Española, Romero’s Fruit and Veggie Stand is in a class by itself. Stop to buy freshly roasted green chile and handmade tamales and tortillas. (Be sure to bring a cooler for fresh items.) They also have lots of seasonal produce, as well as dried beans and chiles. Shortly after the fruit stand, U.S. 84 and U.S. 285 split. Continue up 84 in the direction of Abiquiú. Along the Chama River Valley, spanking-new houses with big barns sit side by side with weathered trailers in one of
the richest archaeological zones in New Mexico. The Poshuouwinge Pueblo, two and a half miles before Abiquiú on the left, was once a thriving settlement. It’s believed to be the mother pueblo of the nearby Tewa Pueblos of Ohkay Owingeh and Santa Clara, among others. While the unexcavated ruins are little more than outlines in the dirt, they once had more than 700 rooms and two large plazas. There is a steep climb to two vista points that reward with 360-degree views. At the top of the climb, an artist’s rendition of the pueblo during its heyday, complete with people and crop locations, makes the site come alive. The view — with Georgia O’Keeffe’s White Place to the northwest, the full range of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains to the east, the Chama River Valley below and the sky above — evoke the Navajo Blessingway prayer: “In beauty I walk.” To take a scenic backroad and skip the last chance to buy a picnic lunch or green chile cheeseburger at Bode’s Store in Abiquiú, turn right on the El Rito road (N.M. 554) about four miles outside Abiquiú. Cross the river, then make a left on N.M. 155 and enjoy a bumpy drive on the north side of the Chama River. The road rejoins 84/285 after a few miles. After continuing through the valley, the road rises through immense red cliffs and passes Abiquiú Dam. To stop there to fish, swim, hike, camp or boat, take a left on N.M. 96. (If you continue on 84, the road passes Ghost Ranch and goes on to Colorado.)
Some silence, some echoes To reach the road to the Monastery of Christ in the Desert and gorgeous wilderness hiking, turn left a mile past the Ghost Ranch Visitor Center of the Carson National Forest on Forest Service Road 151. The rough 13mile road to the monastery runs along the Chama River,
where you won’t be able to resist stopping to romp in the water, take photos or hike. One of the most beautiful drives in a state known for its scenery, it is also a difficult trek in bad weather, so call ahead if you have doubts. The autonomous abbey, which observes the Benedictine life, maintains a guesthouse for private retreats where anyone may enjoy a contemplative timeout in an isolated location. Surrounded by wilderness and overlooking the river, monks begin their days with prayers at 4 a.m. They live a simple life, brew Monk’s Ale, make shoes and run a gift shop. Guests are asked to be quiet and respectful when they visit, remembering that some come for silent meditation. The use of radios, tape recorders without headphones and musical instruments is prohibited. For great hiking, try the area south of the monastery
ABOUT THE ARTIST With a family history that reaches back 300 years, Nambé native Richard C. Sandoval has deep roots in Northern New Mexico. He’s drawn to landscape painting, he said, because he sees more designs in clouds or rocks than when he puts something like a still life or a book together. (He’s also an accomplished graphic designer.) Sandoval is particularly inspired by the mountains of New Mexico. “I look for interesting shapes in the earth and the clouds, and dramatic differences in color,” he said. “Then it’s how the light affects it all. Like my friend Wilson Hurley said about Northern New Mexico, ‘Richard, we could never paint all of it in our entire lives.’ ” Richard Sandoval’s work is exclusively represented by Chris McLarry Fine Art on Santa Fe’s Canyon Road.
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gate in the national wilderness area. The wilderness area continues north of the monastery as well, but hikers must cross the river to reach it. Hiking up into the sandstone mountains is a great adventure; there are dramatic slot canyons to explore, and around every corner another breathtaking view awaits. Look for faint trails leading off the road toward the cliffs, and in wet weather, be prepared for mud. If rain is predicted, stay out of the slot canyons, as flash floods can be deadly. The monastery asks that no one hikes alone on top of the mesa. These trails are hazardous, especially to inexperienced climbers. Visitors must leave their names with the guest master at the monastery if they intend to hike up on top of the mesa. In any case, it’s always a good idea to tell someone where you’re going and when you expect to return if you’re hiking in the wildness. If you decide not to make the 13-mile drive and to stay on N.M. 84, one mile past the turn to the monastery you’ll find Echo Amphitheater, a natural hollow in the cliffside. It’s a short hike to reach the amphitheater from the parking lot, where you can listen to your voice bounce around in longlasting echos. This is a good place for a picnic with the only noise that of echoes and the sound of an occasional passing car.
Coup de spa After a day of hiking, you may feel like a good soak and an excellent dinner. Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa, set on 1,100 secluded acres, is slightly more than 32 miles round trip out of your way home and well worth the detour. It’s also a terrific day trip in its own right — an easy and scenic 50-mile drive from Santa Fe. Set in harmony with nature among cliffs with several rock pools and a swimming pool, Ojo Caliente offers solace for body and soul. A gathering place for the Native peoples who lived in this area for thousands of years, Ojo has been a hot spring spa since 1868 — and is the only hot spring in the world to offer bathers four different, sulphur-free geothermal mineral waters: iron, arsenic, soda and lithia. The Artesian Restaurant serves food with an eye to health but not obsessively so, and the wine bar stays open late. The Ojo Caliente Gift Shop features work from local artisans: Felipe Ortega, known for his micaceous clay pottery; landscape painter J. Bowie Scott; metal worker and jeweler Shaesby Scott; and ceramist Logan Wannamaker.
IF YOU GO O EATING HOUSE 86 Cities of Gold Road, Pojoaque, 505-455-2000. Thin-crust pizza, white tablecloths, pasta, entrees. POEH MUSEUM 78 Cities of Gold Road, Pojoaque, 505-455-5041 www.poehmuseum.com. Small museum with a permanent Roxanne Swentzell exhibit and other changing exhibits. LA COCINA 415 S. Santa Clara Bridge Road, 505-753-3016. Large servings of Northern New Mexican-style food in a pleasant setting. ESPAÑOLA VALLEY FIBER ARTS CENTER 325 Paseo de Oñate, 505-747-3577, www.evfac.org. Hand-spun wools, beautiful yarns, handmade weavings, classes. ROMERO’S FRUIT AND VEGGIE STAND 19543 U.S. 85/285. Along with fruits and vegetables in season, find freshly roasted green chile, handmade tortillas and specialty beans. BODE’S STORE 21196 U.S. 84, Abiquiú, 505-685-4422. Since 1893. Pick up a sandwich or a green chile cheeseburger here while you fill up on gas. www.bodes.com
op.cit. books
www.opcit.com 930-C Baca Street Santa Fe, NM 87505 505.428.0321 info@opcit.com Buy – Trade – Search New – Used – Collectibles Open Every Day at 8 AM - 7/24 on the web Santa Fe’s most interesting bookstore, so we’re told independent by nature and by design 112 2012 Bienvenidos
OJO CALIENTE MINERAL SPRINGS RESORT & SPA 800-222-9162 .www.ojospa.com. Excellent restaurant, mind-and-body-soothing outdoor springs. Spa treatments available by appointment. ECHO AMPHITHEATER Four miles north of Ghost Ranch on U.S. 84/285. Natural amphitheater. MONASTERY OF CHRIST IN THE DESERT 801-545-8567, www.christdesert.org. Gift shop, meditation garden, restrooms and church open from 9:15 a.m. to 5 p.m. See website for road conditions, to check times for Eucharist or to make reservations to stay in the guesthouse.
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LIFE-CHANGING JULY 13, 14 & 15 SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO ON MUSEUM HILL
BUY TICKETS ONLINE NOW www.folkartmarket.org
505.886.1251 • 505.992.7600
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Elhadji Koumama, Tuareg Jeweler, Niger Major partners: New Mexico Department of Cultural Affairs, Museum of International Folk Art, the Museum of New Mexico Foundation, and City of Santa Fe. Partially funded by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission and the 1% Lodger’s Tax and the Santa Fe County Lodgers’ Tax. Photograph © Christian Peacock.
114 201 2 Bienvenidos
Partially funded by the 1% Lodgers’ Tax and
May 28, Monday FIRST QUARTER MOON: 2:16 P.M. MST.
June 4, Monday
almanaque | almanac COMPILED BY KAY LOCKRIDGE DESIGN BY WHITNEY STEWART
MAY Plantings: Tender crops may be planted any time between April 15 and May 15. These include, but are not limited to, snap and lima beans, summer and winter squash, chile, eggplant, sweet corn, tomatoes, cantaloupe, okra, bell pepper, watermelon, cucumbers, honeydew melons, sweet potatoes, pumpkins and black-eyed peas. For details, contact the Master Gardener Hotline (505-471-6251) or the Master Gardener Website (www.sfmga.org).
May 16, Wednesday
6-8 p.m. City of Santa Fe and the Arts Commission Community Gallery present a free poetry reading by 18 leading Santa Fe poets at 201 W. Marcy St. For information: 505-955-6705.
May 17, Thursday
Georgia O’Keeffe in New Mexico: Architecture, Katsinam and the Land opens at the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, 217 Johnson St. For information, 505-946-1000 or visit www.okeeffemuseum.org.
May 18, Friday
Native American Portraits: Points of Inquiry opens at the New Mexico History Museum, 113 Lincoln Ave. For information: 505-4765200 or www.nmhistorymuseum.org.
May 19, Saturday
10 a.m.-4 p.m. The Folk Art Flea Market, benefitting programs at the Museum of International Folk Art, Museum Hill, 706 Camino Lejo. Call 505-476-1200 or visit www.internationalfolkart.org.
May 20, Sunday
Santa Fe Century Ride/Bike/Run: 27th annual 100-mile bicycle event on the Turquoise Trail, NM 14, with 25-, 50- and 75-mile routes also available. Call 505-982-1282 or visit www.santafecentury.com.
May 21, Monday
FULL MOON: 5:11 A.M. MST. Jemez Pueblo presents the Weekend Jemez Red Rocks Arts and Crafts Show. For information: 575-834-7235 or www.jemezpueblo.com.
May 27, Sunday
10 a.m.-4 p.m. Eighth Annual Native Treasures Indian Arts Festival continues at the Community Convention Center. Free today.
2 p.m. Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, 750 Camino Lejo, Museum Hill hosts The Sephardic Legacy in New Mexico: A History of the CryptoJews, a lecture by Stanley M. Hordes. Ph.D. For information and reservations, 505-982-2226 or www.spanishcolonial.org.
2:30 p.m. Santa Fe Community Orchestra season finale at the St. Francis Auditorium in the New Mexico Museum of Art on the Plaza. Free.
May 23, Wednesday
May 28, Monday
2-5 p.m. Cooking Inspired by Georgia O’Keeffe, Santa Fe School of Cooking, 116 W. San Francisco St. For information or to register: 505983-4511 or www.santafeschoolofcooking.com. 6-8 p.m. City of Santa Fe and the Arts Commission Community Gallery present a free poetry reading by 18 Santa Fe poets at the gallery, 201 W. Marcy St. For information: 505-955-6705.
Thursday, May 24
7 p.m. Santa Fe Symphony Orchestra and Chorus present Vivaldi Gloria at the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, 213 Cathedral Place. Free. For information: 505-983-3530 or www.santafesymphony.org.
May 25, Friday
5:30-7:30 p.m. A Benefit Pre-sale Party kicks off the Eighth Annual Native Treasures Indian Arts Festival at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St. Admission includes music, refreshments and an Early Bird ticket for the show opening Saturday morning. Tickets ($100) at the Lensic Box Office, 211 W. San Francisco St. Call 505-988-1234 or visit www.ticketssantafe.org.
The Weekend Jemez Red Rocks Arts and Crafts Show continues at Jemez Pueblo.
The New Mexico Museum of Art, New Mexico Museum of History and Palace of the Governors, Museum of Indian Arts & Culture and the Museum of International Folk Art are now open on Mondays.
June 7, Thursday
The 13th Annual Thirsty Ear Music Festival begins. The City Different’s biggest roots-music event features local and national acts at various venues. For information and tickets: www.thirstyearfestival.com.
JUNE
7 p.m. Contemporary Marimba Concert at the St. Francis Auditorium. For information: 505-982-9780 or www.santafemarimbafestival. org. For tickets: 505-988-1234 or www. ticketssantafe.org.
June 1, Friday
June 8, Friday
6-7 p.m. At the The New Mexico History Museum, 113 Lincoln Ave., Fragile Faith, a lecture by David Robin about two exhibits: Illuminating the Word: The St. John’s Bible, an Epic Work of Art and Contemplative Landscape. Free.
5-7 p.m. City of Santa Fe and the Arts Commission Community Gallery present Santa Fe Poet Laureate Joan Logghe at the gallery, 201 W. Marcy St. Event concludes a collaborative exhibit of poetry and the visual arts that began in March. Call 505-955-6705.
June 2, Saturday
6-7 p.m. Landscapes and Memory, a lecture by artist and calligrapher Laurie Doctor, at the New Mexico History Museum, 113 Lincoln Ave. Free.
10 a.m.-4 p.m. Spring Festival and Children’s Fair at El Rancho de las Golondrinas. Call 505471-2261 or visit www.golondrinas.org. The Annual Eldorado Area Gardening Tour focuses on six gardens and the Community Garden/Outdoor Classroom. Visit www.EldoradoGardeningTour.com.
June 3, Sunday
1-3 p.m. City of Santa Fe and the Arts Commission Community Gallery present a free Visual Arts Workshop — Five Folds Toward a Book — with Suzanne Vilmain at the gallery, 201 W. Marcy St. Call 505-955-6705.
It’s About Time: 14,000 Years of Art in New Mexico opens at the New Mexico Museum of Art, 107 W. Palace Ave. Call 505-476-5072 or visit www.nmartmuseum.org.
Spring Festival and Children’s Fair continues at El Rancho de las Golondrinas.
May 26, Saturday
June 6, Wednesday
Wordharvest Writers Workshops presents Travel Writing — and Blogging — for Fun and Profit led by Lesley King at the Performance Space of La Tienda, 7 Caliente Road, Eldorado. To register, visit www.wordharvest.com. For information: 505-471-1565 or email wordharvest@wordharvest.com.
10 a.m. Eighth Annual Native Treasures Indian Arts Festival opens at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. Sales benefit the artists and the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture. Tickets at the door: $10; $20 including the Early Bird opening at 9 a.m. For information: 505-9827799 or www.nativetreasures.org.
7 p.m. The four-day Santa Fe Marimba Festival opens at the St. Francis Auditorium, followed by a reception at 9 p.m., at the New Mexico Museum of Art. For information: 505-982-9780 or www.santafemarimbafestival.org. For tickets: 505-988-1234 or www.ticketssantafe.org.
7 p.m. Double Image at the Lensic Performing Arts Center, 225 San Francisco St., with acclaimed mallet percussionists Dave Samuels and David Friedman performing a vibe-marimba duo concert. For information: 505-982-9780 or www.santafemarimbafestival.org. For tickets: 505-988-1234 or www.ticketssantafe.org. Thirsty Ear Festival continues. For information and tickets: www.thirstyearfestival.com.
June 9, Saturday
8 p.m. The Santa Fe Marimba Festival and the Santa Fe Symphony Orchestra & Chorus present A Night of Premieres at the Lensic Performing Arts Center, 211 W. San Francisco St., with the American premiere of Bird Rhythmics, a concerto for marimba and orchestra, Op. 109, by renowned Japanese composer Takashi Yoshimatsu and featuring
2012 Bienvenidos 115
June 11, Monday LAST-QUARTER MOON: 4:42 A.M. MST.
almanaque | almanac the world-class marimbist Nanae Mimura, with special guests Valerie Naranjo, Ludwig Alberi and Chin Cheng Lin. For information: 505-982-9780 or 505-983-3530; www. santafemarimbafestival.org or www. santafesymphony.org. For tickets: 505-9881234 or www.ticketssantafe.org. Thirsty Ear Music Festival continues. Visit www.thirstyearfestival.com.
June 10, Sunday
Thirsty Ear Music Festival continues. Visit www.thirstyearfestival.com.
June 13, Wednesday
San Antonio Feast Corn Dance at Taos Pueblo. For information: 575-758- 1024 (1028, 9593) or vwww.taospueblo.com. 6-8 p.m. The Music on the Hill concert series, sponsored by St. John’s College, begins and continues on Wednesday evenings (June 20 and 27 and July 11, 18, and 25) on the college’s athletic field. Free. Visit www.stjohnscollege. edu/events/SF/music.shtml.
June 15, Friday
11 a.m.-9 p.m. 15th Annual Santa Fe Greek Festival featuring food, music and dancing, hosted by St. Elias the Prophet Greek Orthodox Church, Santa Fe Community Convention Center. For information: 505-577-4742 or www.santafegreekfestival.com. 10 a.m. Tasting New Mexico cooking class with Cheryl and Bill Jamison at Santa Fe School of Cooking, 116 W. San Francisco St. For information or to register: 505-983-4511 or www.santafeschoolofcooking.com.
June 16, Saturday
10 a.m. The Rodeo de Santa Fe Parade kicks off the 62nd Annual Rodeo de Santa Fe week. For information about the parade and how to enter: 505-490-3008 or www.rodeodesantafe.org. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Santa Fe Greek Festival continues at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. For information: 505-5774742 or www.santafegreekfestival.com. Challenge New Mexico presents its 34th Annual Art Show on the Santa Fe Plaza. For information: 505-988-7621, Ext. 114, or www.challengenewmexico.org.
June 17, Sunday
Challenge New Mexico arts and crafts show continues on the Plaza.
June 19, Tuesday New moon: 9:03 a.m. MST.
116 2012 Bienvenidos
June 20, Wednesday
6-8 p.m. Music on the Hill at St. John’s College. Free. For information: www.stjohnscollege. edu/events/SF/music.shtml. The 62nd Annual Rodeo de Santa Fe opens today for a four-day stand at the Santa Fe County Rodeo Grounds, on Rodeo Road. Gates open at 5:30 p.m.; Mutton Bustin begins at 6:30 p.m.; Rodeo performances 7-9:30 p.m. For information: 505-471-4300 or www. rodeodesantafe.org. For tickets: 505-988-1234 or www.ticketssantafe.org.
June 21, Thursday
Rodeo de Santa Fe continues at the Santa Fe County Rodeo Grounds. Gates open at 5:30 p.m. Mutton Bustin begins at 6:30 p.m.; Rodeo performances 7-9:30 p.m.
June 22, Friday
Currents: The Santa Fe International New Media Festival, an annual, citywide event which includes exhibitions, multimedia performances, internships, workshops, panel discussions, docent tours opens June 22 at El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe, 555 Camino de la Familia. For information: 505-992-0591 or www.elmuseocultural.org/calendar.php. Rodeo de Santa Fe continues at the Santa Fe County Rodeo Grounds. Gates open at 5:30 p.m. Mutton Bustin begins at 6:30 p.m.; Rodeo performances 7-9:30 p.m.
June 23, Saturday
Rodeo de Santa Fe concludes today at the Santa Fe Rodeo Grounds. Gates open at 5:30 p.m.; Mutton Bustin begins at 6:30 p.m.; Rodeo performances 7-9:30 p.m.
Sunday, June 24
San Juan Day Corn Dance at Taos Pueblo. For information: 575-758-1024 (1028, 9593) or www.taospueblo.com. St. John the Baptist Feast Day dances at Ohkay Owingeh Pueblo. For information: 595-8524400 or www.ohkay.com.
June 26, Tuesday First-quarter moon: 9:30 p.m. MST. June 27, Wednesday
6-8 p.m. Music on the Hill at St. John’s College. Free. For information: www.stjohnscollege. edu/events/SF/music.shtml.
June 29, Friday
Santa Fe Opera opens its 2012 festival season and continues through August 25, presenting five new operas. U.S. 84/285, Exit 168. For information and tickets: 505-986-5900, 800-280-4654 or www.santafeopera.org.
July 3, Tuesday FULL MOON: 12:51 P.M. MST.
1-4 p.m. Artists attending the International Folk Art Market demonstrate their work at the Museum of International Folk Art. Call 505476-1200 or visit www.internationalfolkart.org
July 10, Tuesday
8:30-10 a.m. Breakfast with the Curator (Bobbie Sumberg, Textiles and Costume) and tour of Young Brides, Old Treasures: Macedonian Embroidered Dresses exhibit at the Museum of International Folk art. For information and reservations: 505-476-1207.
JULY Fall crops, including hardy and semi-hardy vegetables, may be planted between July 15 and August 1. Such vegetables include, but are not limited to, broccoli, Chinese cabbage, kale, radishes, turnips, cauliflower, spinach, cabbage, garlic, kohlrabi and lettuce. For details, contact the Master Gardener Hotline (505-471-6251) or Master Gardener Website (www.sfmga.org).
July 4, Wednesday
7 a.m.-noon Pancakes on the Plaza, with a vintage car show (7 a.m.-1 p.m.), entertainment (7 a.m.-3 p.m.) and an arts and crafts show (7 a.m.-5 p.m.). Call 505-984-0022 or visit www.pancakesontheplaza.com.
6-10 p.m. Annual fireworks show sponsored by the Boys & Girls Club at Santa Fe High School, 2100 Yucca St.
July 7, Saturday
More Real? Art in the Age of Truthiness opens at SITE Santa Fe, 1606 Paseo de Peralta, with work by international artists. For information: 505-989-1199 or www.sitesantafe.org. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Santa Fe Artists Market show at Cathedral Park today and tomorrow. Free.
A Feast for the Senses
1-4 p.m. Artists attending the International Folk Art Market demonstrate their work at the Museum of International Folk Art. Call 505476-1200 or www.internationalfolkart.org From Zimbabwe to Santa Fe, a documentary following an artist’s journey from Africa to the United States by Cristina McCandless, at The Screen. Call 505-670-6000 for details.
July 11, Wednesday Last-quarter moon: 7:49 p.m. MST. 8:30-10 a.m. Breakfast with the Curator (Felicia Katz-Harris, Asia and Middle Eastern Collections and Asian Artists) and tour of The Art of Gaman: Arts and Crafts from the Japanese-American Internment Camps, 19421946 exhibit. Call 505-476-1207. 1-4 p.m. Artists attending the International Folk Art Market demonstrate their work at the Museum of International Folk Art. Call 505476-1200 or visit www.internationalfolkart.org An Evening with Gayle Tzemach Lemmon, author of The Dressmaker of Khair Khana, at the Lensic Performing Arts Center, 211 W. San Francisco St. For tickets: 505-988-1234, the Lensic Box Office or www.ticketssantafe.org. 6-8 p.m. Music on the Hill at St. John’s College. Free. Visit www.stjohnscollege.edu/events/SF/ music.shtml.
July 12, Thursday
La Plazuela at La Fonda on the Plaza is a feast for the senses. The room is stunning and the menu sophisticated, showcasing old favorites with New World twists and truly authentic Northern New Mexican cuisine. Our wine list is award-winning,
Noon-6 p.m. Santa Fe Wine Festival opens at El Rancho de las Golondrinas with food, music and Northern New Mexico arts and crafts. Visit www.santafewinefestival.com.
5-9 p.m. International Folk Art Market Community Celebration at Railyard Park with a free concert. Call 505-992-7600 or visit www.folkartmarket.org.
our service is impeccable and, according to the reviewers,
Wordharvest Writers Workshops presents Sell Your Book: The ABCs of Market Analysis and Promotion with Shirley Raye Redmond at the Performance Space at La Tienda, 7 Caliente Road, Eldorado. To register: www.wordharvest. com. For information: 505-471-1565 or email wordharvest@wordharvest.com.
5-8 p.m. Art Santa Fe’s 12th annual show opens with a gala and vernissage at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St., and continues through July 15. Call 505989-1119 or visit www.artsantafe.com. For tickets: 505-988-1234, www.lensic.org or www.ticketssantafe.org.
Come make memories with us!
July 8, Sunday
10 a.m.-5 p.m. Santa Fe Artists Market continues at Cathedral Park. Noon-6 p.m. Santa Fe Wine Festival at El Rancho de las Golondrinas continues. Visit www.santafewinefestival.com. The Art of Gaman: Arts and Crafts from the Japanese-American Internment Camps, 19421946 opens at the Museum of International Folk Art, Museum Hill, 706 Camino Lejo. Call 505476-1200 or visit www.internationalfolkart.org.
July 9, Monday
8:30-10 a.m. Breakfast with the Curator (Barbara Mauldin, Latin America) and tour of Folk Art of the Andes exhibit at the Museum of International Folk Art. For information and reservations: 505-476-1207.
you’ll be dining in the “best of Santa Fe style”.
July 13, Friday
6-7 p.m. The New Mexico History Museum, 113 Lincoln Ave., presents Poetry and Photographs with poet Miriam Sagan and photographer Teresa Neptune. Free. Call 505476-5100 or visit www.nmhistorymuseum.org.
www.lafondasantafe.com Dinner reservations recommended. Call 505.995.2334
6:30-9 p.m. The International Folk Art Market kicks off its ninth season with a Global Gathering Under the Stars on Milner Plaza on Museum Hill, 706 Camino Lejo. Tickets ($125) include refreshments, music, dancing and shopping. Call 505-992-7600 or visit www.folkartmarket.org. New Mexico Jazz Festival starts July 13 and concludes on July 29. For information on venues, schedule and tickets visit www.newmexicojazzfestival.org.
800.523.5002 Reservations 505.982.5511 Front Desk
100 E. San Francisco Street Santa Fe, New Mexico 87501 2012 Bienvenidos 117
July 14, Saturday
Ninth Annual Santa Fe International Folk Art Market on Museum Hill, 710 Camino Lejo. Early Bird market opens at 7:30 a.m.; public opening at 9 a.m. Tickets are $50 for the Early Bird; $15 in advance; $20 at the gate. Call 505476-1200 or visit www.internationalfolkart.org 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Children of the Portal Artists’ annual show and sale in the Palace Courtyard. 505-476-5100 or www.nmhistorymuseum.org. Wordharvest Writers Workshops presents Writing Through the Lens of Food with Deborah Madison at the Performance Space at La Tienda, 7 Caliente Road, Eldorado. To register: www. wordharvest.com. For information: 505-4711565 or email wordharvest@wordharvest.com. St. Bonaventure Feast Day dances at Cochití Pueblo. For information: 505-465-2244 or www.pueblodecochiti.org.
July 15, Sunday
9a.m.-3 p.m. Young Native Arts and Crafts Show and Sale, featuring children of the Portal artists, continues in the Palace of the Governors Courtyard. For information: 505-476-5100 or www.nmhistorymuseum.org.
9 a.m.-5 p.m. International Folk Art Market celebrates Family Day. Tickets: $5 in advance, children 16 and under free; $10 at the gate. 505-476-1200 or www.internationalfolkart.org. Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival begins today and continues through August 20 at various venues in the City Different. For information and tickets: 505-983-2075 or visit www.santafechambermusic.org.
July 18, Wednesday
6-8 p.m. Music on the Hill at St. John’s College. Free. For information: www.stjohnscollege. edu/events/SF/music.shtml.
New moon: 10:24 p.m. MST. July 20, Friday
8 p.m. The Desert Chorale, which performs in various venues in Santa Fe and Albuquerque, begins its 2012 summer season tonight and concludes August 18. For information and tickets: 505-988-2282, 800-244-4011 or www.DesertChorale.org.
July 21, Saturday
10 a.m.-5 p.m. Rancho de las Golondrinas hosts ¡Viva Mexico! Celebration. For information: 505-471-2261 or www.golondrinas.org. Wordharvest Writers Workshops presents Poetry Launch with Santa Fe Poet Laureate Joan Logghe at the Performance Space at La Tienda, 7 Caliente Road, Eldorado. To register: www. wordharvest.com. Call 505-471-1565 or email wordharvest@wordharvest.com.
Sunday, July 22
10 a.m.-5 p.m. ¡Viva Mexico! Celebration continues at El Rancho de las Golondrinas.
July 24, Tuesday
12:30-4:30 p.m. Behind Adobe Walls Home and Garden Tour sponsored by the Santa Fe Garden Club visits four private residences with outstanding high desert gardens. $75 includes luxury buses; add lunch, $20. Reservations suggested. Call www.thesantafegardenclub.org. For tickets: 505-984-0022. (Tour four different homes on July 31.)
118 2012 Bienvenidos
4 p.m. Talk and collection tour led by curator Robin Farwell Gavin of the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, 750 Camino Lejo, Museum Hill. Call 505-982-2226; www.spanishcolonial.org.
July 25, Wednesday
Noon. Luncheon with the artists of Spanish Market. For information and reservations: 505982-2226 or visit www.spanishcolonial.org. 10 a.m. New Mexico Favorites cooking class with Chef Johnny Vee of Las Cosas Kitchen Shoppe, 181 Paseo de Peralta. For information: www.lascosascooking.com. For reservations: 877-229-7184. Santiago Day Corn Dance at Taos Pueblo. For information: 575-758-1024 (1028, 9593) or www.taospueblo.com. 6-8 p.m. Final performance of Music on the Hill at St. John’s College. Free. Visit www. stjohnscollege.edu/events/SF/music.shtml.
July 26, Thursday
10 a.m. Spanish Influence on New Mexico’s Norteño Cookery with Chef Johnny Vee of Las Cosas Kitchen Shoppe, 181 Paseo de Peralta. Visit www.lascosascooking.com. For reservations: 877-229-7184. 4:30 p.m. Collecting Spanish Colonial Art in the 21st Century, lecture by John Schaefer at Peyton Wright Gallery, 237 E. Palace Ave. For information: 505-989-9888, 800-879-8898 or visit www.peytonwright.com. Santa Ana Day Corn Dance at Taos Pueblo. Call 575-758-1024 (1028, 9593) or visit www. taospueblo.com.
First-quarter moon: 2:56 a.m. MST. July 27, Friday
9:30 a.m. Patina Gallery, 131 W. Palace Ave., hosts a breakfast reception and talk on Spanish jeweler Enric Majoral. For information and reservations: 505-986-3432 or visit www.patina-gallery.com. 5:30-8 p.m. Preview Night at Contemporary Hispanic Market, Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St., includes food, music and dancing under the stars in the courtyard. Free. Call 505-438-4367 or visit www.contemporaryhispanicmarket.com. 7 p.m. Members-only preview of Traditional Spanish Market, Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St. For membership and preview information: 505-982-2226 or www.spanishmarket.org.
July 28, Saturday
8 a.m.-5 p.m. 61st Annual Traditional Spanish Market featuring work of Spanish colonial artists from Northern New Mexico and southern Colorado on the Plaza, with food, music and entertainment. Free. Call 505-9822226 or visit www.spanishmarket.org.
8 a.m.-5 p.m. 26th Annual Contemporary Hispanic Market featuring arts and crafts by New Mexico’s leading-edge Hispanic artists, Lincoln Avenue, just off the Plaza. Free. Call 505-438-4367 or visit www. contemporaryhispanicmarket.com. 8 p.m. Santa Fe Desert Chorale presents Celebrating the Centenary, featuring three new choral works that celebrate the three ethnic groups that contribute to the state’s distinctive
August 1, Wednesday FULL MOON APPEARS AT 9:27 P.M. MST.
Experience the Early Days of the Taos Art Colony Visit the Couse-Sharp Historic Site this Summer
almanaque | almanac cultural richness and diversity, at the New Mexico History Museum, 113 Lincoln Ave. For tickets and information: 505-988-2282 or 800244-4011 or visit www.DesertChorale.org. Wordharvest Writers Workshops presents A Mindful Approach to Improve Your Writing with Kate Horsley at the Performance Space at La Tienda, 7 Caliente Road, Eldorado. To register: www.wordharvest. com. For information: 505-471-1565 or email wordharvest@wordharvest.com.
July 29, Sunday
8 a.m. Annual Spanish Market Mass at the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. 9:30 a.m.-5 p.m. Spanish Market continues on the Plaza.
than 200 artists, takes place on the Plaza. Free. Call 505-982-2042, www.girlsinc.ofsantafe.org. Frontier Days & Horses of the West featuring mountain men and women and Peruvian Paso horses begins today at Rancho de las Golondrinas. For information: 505-471-2261 or www.golondrinas.org. Wordharvest Writers Workshops presents Charismatic Characters with Julie Shigekuni at the Performance Space at La Tienda, 7 Caliente Road, Eldorado. To register: www.wordharvest. com. For information: 505-471-1565 or email wordharvest@wordharvest.com. St. Dominic Feast Day dances at Kewa Pueblo, formerly Santo Domingo Pueblo.
August 5, Sunday
9 a.m.-5 p.m. Contemporary Hispanic Market continues on Lincoln Avenue, just off the Plaza.
Frontier Days & Horses of the West concludes today at Rancho de las Golondrinas.
Kitchen Garden and Chicken Coop Tour sponsored by Homegrown New Mexico. Visit www.homegrownnewmexico.org.
9 a.m.-5 p.m. Girls Inc. Arts and Crafts Fair continues on the Plaza.
JULY 31, Tuesday
12:30-4:30 p.m. Behind Adobe Walls Home and Garden Tour sponsored by the Santa Fe Garden Club visits four private residences with outstanding high desert gardens. $75 includes luxury buses; add lunch for $20. Reservations suggested. Visit www.thesantafegardenclub. org. For tickets: 505-984-0022.
AUGUST
August 9, Thursday
6-9 p.m. The two-day Antique Ethnographic Art Show begins today with a gala preview opening at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. Call 505-992-8929 or www.whitehawkshows.com.
Last-quarter moon: 12:56 p.m. MST.
August 2, Thursday
9 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Mountain Man Trade Fair continues in the Palace of the Governors Courtyard. Free.
August 3, Friday
SOFA West continues at the Community Convention Center.
August 4, Saturday
SOFA West continues at the Community Convention Center.
The Couse Foundation • 146 Kit Carson Road • www.cousefoundation.org
10 a.m. The 28th Annual Mountain Man Trade Fair opens today in the Palace of the Governors Courtyard and continues for three days. Free.
Friday, August 10
SOFA West: The three-day Sculptural Objects and Functional Art (SOFA) Fair begins today at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St. For information and tickets: 800-563-7632 or www.sofaexpo.com.
Open Houses the first Saturday from June through October • 5pm - 7pm To schedule a visit May 6 - Oct. 31, call 575-751-0369 or email director@cousefoundation.org
SOFA West concludes today at the Community Convention Center.
August 1, Wednesday
Music at Angel Fire begins its 29th season today, presenting 15 chamber music concerts featuring more than 35 international artists performing the works of the masters and contemporary composers, concluding Sept. 2. For information and tickets: 505-820-2540 or www.musicfromangelfire.org.
Take an in-depth tour of the home and studio of E. I. Couse and studios of Joseph H. Sharp
6-9 p.m. The Santa Fe Show: Objects of Art kicks off the first of two weekends with an Opening Night Preview & Party at El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe, 555 Camino de la Familia. Tickets, $50 at the door. Call 505-660-4701 or visit www.SantaFeShow.com.
St. Lawrence Feast Day dances at Picuris Pueblo. For information: 505-587-2519. 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Antique Ethnographic Art Show continues at the Community Convention Center. Call 505-992-8929 or visit www. whitehawkshows.com.
August 11, Saturday
9 a.m.-4:30 p.m. Mountain Man Trade Fair continues in the Palace of the Governors Courtyard. Free.
9 a.m. Girls Inc. 40th Annual Arts and Crafts Fair, a juried show featuring the work of more
2012 Bienvenidos 119
Photos: Heather Prichard
August 24, Friday FIRST-QUARTER MOON: 8:54 A.M. MST.
almanaque | almanac 10 a.m.-4 p.m. The 11th annual Rag Rug Festival & Gift Show, sponsored by the New Mexico Women’s Foundation, opens at the Stewart Udall Center for Museum Resources, 725 Camino Lejo. Free. Call 505-983-6155 or email info@nmwf.org. 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Antique Ethnographic Art Show concludes today at the Community Convention Center. Call 505-992-8929 or visit www. whitehawkshows.com. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. The Santa Fe Show: Objects of Art, featuring works of art from galleries, artists and designers, opens at El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe in the Santa Fe Railyard. Tickets, $12 each for the six-day show or $16 for all show days, are available at the door. For information: 505-660-4701 or www.SantaFeShow.com. Wordharvest Writers Workshops presents Publish Your Book! with Cindy Bellinger at the Performance Space at La Tienda, 7 Caliente Road, Eldorado. To register: www.wordharvest. com. Call 505-471-1565 or email wordharvest@ wordharvest.com.
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10 a.m.-4 p.m. Rag Rug Festival & Gift Show continues at the Stewart Udall Center for Museum Resources on Museum Hill.
6-9 p.m. The two-day Antique Indian Art Show opens today at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St., with a gala preview. Call 505-982-8929 or visit www.whitehawkshows.com.
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9 a.m.-3 p.m. Mountain Man Trade Fair concludes today in the Palace of the Governors Courtyard. Free.
11 a.m.-5 p.m. The Santa Fe Show: Objects of Art continues at El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe in the Santa Fe Railyard. Tickets $12 at the door.
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August 12, Sunday
St. Clare Feast Day dances at Santa Clara Pueblo. Call 505-753-7326 (7330) or www.puyecliffs.com.
August 13, Monday
The Southwest Association for Indian Arts, the Center for Contemporary Arts and the Smithsonian National Museum of the American Indian present the 10th Annual Native Cinema Showcase, a four-day celebration of films and videos by and about indigenous peoples, beginning today. The showcase features 16 films and videos from seven countries shown in two central venues: the Cinematheque at CCA, 1050 Old Pecos Trail, and Cathedral Park, next to the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. The award recipients of SWAIA’s classification category for moving images, Classification X, will be shown. Free. Visit www.swaia.org.
10 a.m.-5 p.m. The Antique Indian Art Show continues at the Community Convention Center. Call 505-982-8929; www.whitehawkshows.com. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. The Santa Fe Show: Objects of Art continues at El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe in the Santa Fe Railyard. Tickets $12 at the door.
August 14, Tuesday
10 a.m.-5 p.m. The Antique Indian Art Show concludes today at the Community Convention Center. Call 505-982-8929 or visit www.whitehawkshows.com. Native Cinema Showcase continues. Visit www.swaia.org for details.
August 15, Wednesday
Native Cinema Showcase continues. Visit www.swaia.org for details.
August 16, Thursday
1 p.m. The Case Trading Post (Wheelwright Museum store) presents an afternoon of talks and awards in the museum library, with a roundtable followed by the Fellowship Awards presentation at 1:45 p.m. The annual Indian Market Survival Guide panel begins at 2 p.m. Free. Visit www.wheelwright.org. 4 p.m. The Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian kicks off its 37th annual auctions with a silent auction and live-auction preview on museum grounds, Camino Lejo. Free. Visit www.wheelwright.org. 6 p.m. SWAIA and Collected Works Bookstore present an established Indian writer and an emerging writer. A question-and-answer session and book signing follow the readings, 202 Galisteo St. Visit www.swaia.org. Native Cinema Showcase concludes today. Visit www.swaia.org for details.
August 17, Friday
9 a.m. The Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, Camino Lejo, Museum Hill, begins its all-day events with its annual Collectors’ Table featuring Indian art for sale until 10:30 a.m., when the fifth annual Art for Wear and second live-auction preview begins, continuing until 12:30 p.m. The live auction is from 1-4 p.m. Free. The Case Trading Post plans other special events. Visit www.wheelwright.org. 11:30 a.m. Indian Market Best of Show Ceremony and Luncheon at the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, 201 W. Marcy St. For tickets and information: 505-983-5220. 2 p.m. State of Native Arts symposium at the New Mexico History Museum, 113 Lincoln Ave., featuring museum directors from the Autry National Center of the American West, the Eiteljorg Museum of American Indians
August 31, Friday and Western Art, the Heard Museum and the National Museum of the American Indian. Free. Visit www.swaia.org.
BLUE MOON: 7:57 A.M. MST.
5:30 p.m. Sneak preview of Indian Market award-winning art for members only at the Community Convention Center, followed by a general preview for the public at 7:30 p.m. For tickets and information: 505-983-5220.
New moon: 9:54 a.m. MST. August 18, Saturday
7 a.m.-5 p.m. The 91st Annual Indian Market, sponsored by the Southwest Association for Indian Arts and featuring artists from throughout the United States and Canada, opens on the Plaza today and tomorrow. Free. Call 505-983-5220 or visit www.swaia.org. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. The Santa Fe Show: Objects of Art continues at El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe in the Santa Fe Railyard. Tickets $12 at the door. 5 p.m. SWAIA Live Auction Gala at La Fonda on the Plaza. Tickets are $150 general seating, $225 for preferred seating. For tickets: 505-983-6220 or www.swaia.org. The Native Cinema Showcase screens Native-made and -directed films focusing on issues of indigenous life and identity at CCA Cinematheque, 1050 Old Pecos Trail, throughout Indian Market weekend. For information and tickets: 505-982-1338 or www.ccasantafe.com. 9 a.m.-5 p.m. The annual two-day Portal Artists Celebration features Portal artists and their handcrafted work in the Palace of the Governors Courtyard, 113 Lincoln Ave. Traditional Indian dances, music, raffles and Indian fry bread. Free. For information: 505476-1141 or www.nmhistorymuseum.org.
August 19, Sunday
9 a.m.-5 p.m. The Portal Artists Celebration continues in the Palace of the Governors Courtyard. Call 505-476-1141 or visit www.nmhistorymuseum.org. 11 a.m.-5 p.m. The Santa Fe Show: Objects of Art concludes at El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe in the Santa Fe Railyard. Tickets $12 at the door. 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Indian Market continues on the Plaza. Call 505-983-6220 or www.swaia.org. Native Cinema Showcase continues at CCA Cinematheque. For details, visit www.swaia.org.
August 24, Friday First-quarter moon: 7:54 a.m. MST. August 24-26, Friday - Sunday
The Santa Fe Bluegrass and Old Time Music Festival opens today at the Santa Fe County Fairgrounds, Rodeo Road. For information and tickets: www.southwestpickers.org.
August 31, Friday
People sing songs about it, write plays about it and talk about it in awe — because special things happen only “once in a blue moon.” The second full moon in a month (or a fourth time in a seasonal three months, according to The Old Farmer’s Almanac) is known as a blue moon. This year a blue moon appears in the morning sky over New Mexico at 7:57 a.m. MST today — a wonderful way to end a “once-in-a-bluemoon” summer season in the City Different.
Ongoing events May through September: Pequeño Home and Garden Tours of special homes and high-desert gardens, sponsored by the Santa Fe Garden Club. For information and reservations: 505-984-0022. Historical downtown walking tours led by New Mexico History Museum and Palace of the Governors guides are Monday through Friday from 10:15 a.m.-12:15 p.m. throughout the summer. $10 for adults, children 16 and under free with an adult. Call 505-476-1141. The Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian, 704 Camino Lejo, presents Looking at Indian Art every Saturday, beginning at 10:15 a.m. in the Case Trading Post on the lower level of the museum. The Northern New Mexico Fine Arts and Crafts Guild sponsors several shows at Cathedral Park during the summer. Visit www.artsandcrafts guild.org; 505-473-5590 or 505-412-1407. Santa Fe Artists Market showcasing juried area artists is held on Saturdays and Sundays, 8 a.m.2 p.m., at the Railyard Park, Paseo de Peralta at S. Guadalupe St., next to SITE Santa Fe. Free. Call 505-310-1555 or visit www.santafeartistsmarket.com. The Santa Fe Society of Artists presents its members’ work at the parking lot behind First National Bank on the Plaza from 9 a.m.-5:30 p.m. every weekend in May. Visit www.santafe societyofartists.com. The Randall Davey Audubon Center and Sanctuary conducts free weekly bird walks led by experienced birders every Saturday during the summer from 8-9 a.m., 1800 Upper Canyon Road. Call 505-983-4609. Tours of the historic Randall Davey House, 1800 Upper Canyon Road, are conducted every Friday from 2-3 p.m. Admission $5. For information and reservations: 505-983-4609. The Santa Fe Opera Festival runs June 29 through August 25. For schedule and tickets: 505-986-5900, 800-280-4654 or visit www.santafeopera.org. Santa Fe Farmers Market is held every Saturday and Tuesday morning from 7 a.m.-noon, in and around the market building in the Santa Fe Railyard, 1607 Paseo de Peralta, at S. Guadalupe St. Call 505-983-4098 or visit www.santafefarmersmarket.com.
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122 2 012 Bienvenidos
we’ll wait for you | los esperamos
Mountain bikers blaze a trail October summit blends recreation, conservation
BY DIANA DEL MAURO
Last fall, Scott Cejka was ecstatic after mountain biking down the aspen-lined Winsor Trail to Tesuque, a widely lauded stretch of single-track that starts 10,300 feet above sea level in the Santa Fe National Forest and drops 3,400 feet over 10 miles. Steep in parts and “fast and flowy” in other parts, the trail offered Cejka the added pleasure of soaring over Tesuque Creek crossings at least a dozen times. And best of all, he didn’t see another creature (other than his riding buddy) until he passed a gathering of cows at the bottom. For the Boulder, Colorado, resident, Santa Fe offered one of the best mountain biking experiences of his life. “As much as I love Boulder and love using the thousands of miles of trails around town for hiking, I have to get in my car and drive out of Boulder to do any real mountain biking,” Cejka said. “Santa Fe seems far less crowded and still open to recreation activities. That’s what I like about it. It’s like a Boulder before it was discovered.” Santa Fe’s relatively quiet reputation for mountain biking is about to undergo a significant transformation. From October 10 to 13, the 2012 International Mountain Bicycling Association’s World Summit will showcase Northern New Mexico’s trails, from Santa Fe to Angel Fire, during autumn’s comfortable riding temperatures and bursts of color. Not only will the event create a forum for hundreds of trail advocates and land managers to learn how to cultivate bicycle tourism while balancing recreation and land conservation, but it also will leave tangible improvements behind. “We hope to come and take what’s already good and make it better,” IMBA spokesman Mark Eller said. A dozen communities cast bids to host the sixth world summit. In the end, Santa Fe beat out Lake Tahoe, Nevada, “by a nose,” said Eller. A nonprofit organization founded in 1988 by California mountain bike enthusiasts who were being banned from trails, IMBA takes pride in its record of promoting conservation and rider responsibility and providing a million volunteer hours each year worldwide to build and maintain low-impact, durable public trails. In 1994, IMBA leaders convinced the Sierra Club to revise its policy to recognize mountain biking as a legitimate recreational activity. IMBA now has 35,000 members worldwide. “Recreation and conservation are often pitched as adversarial, but if you do it right, they can enhance each other,” Eller said. Eller also applauded Santa Fe Conservation Trust’s recent effort to build new trails that connect downtown
LUIS SANCHEZ SATURNO
Mountain bikers in the hills west of Santa Fe trails to mountain trails, so bike enthusiasts can avoid a car altogether. In just the last 10 years, the city, the county and various trail advocates have come together to develop Santa Fe as a mountain biking destination. Before that, the trail network was limited and bicycle-friendly amenities were lacking. “We have this amazing asset in our trails,” said Charlie O’Leary, director of Santa Fe Conservation Trust and an avid mountain biker. “I certainly think it’s underutilized as a recreation community. But there’s been a big shift, and it’s still occurring.”
Permanent improvements Whenever a summit comes to a community, IMBA strives to leave something worthwhile behind. For Santa Fe, that will mean a bike skills park, a comprehensive trail map (in electronic and print versions), and revamped Dale Ball trails. Assuming the educational forum is successful, the city will be better equipped to shape the future of mountain biking here. IMBA is sending its trail solutions team to work side by side with local volunteers to build a small park at La Tierra Trails, located off NM 599, where bikers of all levels can practice a wide variety of skills through jump lines, cross-country riding, balance beams, and a short pump track, where riders cruise around the undulating course by moving up and down on the bike rather than pedaling. It will be free for all to use. This October, the crowning activity for summit
delegates will be a ride on the Winsor Trail organized and led by the Santa Fe Fat Tire Society, a local IMBA chapter. Instead of bombing straight down it, as Cejka did, riders will experience a route that starts high on the Winsor Trail but uses a new connecting segment, La Piedra Trail, built by Santa Fe Conservation Trust.
IF YOU GO What: The 2012 International Mountain Bicycling Association’s World Bike Summit offers attendees a chance to solve problems together and experience Santa Fe’s trails during prime riding season. Delegates will spend part of the day contemplating how to balance recreation and conservation, how to build low-impact trails and how to make mountain biking in Santa Fe more attractive to tourists and locals alike. By 3 p.m., delegates will head to the Sangre de Cristo Mountains for guided rides of any skill level they desire. Evenings will be a time to unwind over locally brewed beer, bike-centered art, and short bike-themed films. A ride on the Winsor Trail and a BBQ meal will wrap up the event on Saturday. When: Oct. 10-13, preconference activities on Oct. 8 and 9, including epic rides in Taos-Angel Fire and Los Alamos Where: Santa Fe Community Convention Center To register contact IMBA at www.imba.com/worldsummit or 888-442-4622. To schedule a ride during the summit, contact the Santa Fe Fat Tire Society at http://santafefattiresociety.org.
2012 Bienvenidos 123
los esperamos | we’ll wait for you
Fiestas de Santa Fe September 6-9 The burning of Zozobra — a giant marionette representing Old Man Gloom — kicks off Fiestas de Santa Fe. Now in its 300th year, the fiesta commemorates the relatively peaceful resettlement of Santa Fe by the Spanish after the Indian revolt of 1680. Highlights include several parades, a craft fair, food booths on the Plaza and a candlelight procession.
Native Treasures Collectors’ Sale September 15-16 A special sale of Native American art — in almost every medium — from the homes of top collectors is held at the Laboratory of Anthropology on Museum Hill and benefits the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture.
Santa Fe to Buffalo Thunder Half Marathon September 16 The race route starts in the city, runs uphill for a couple of miles, then begins a gradual 1,300-foot descent to its finish at the Buffalo Thunder Resort & Casino at Pojoaque Pueblo. The resort also hosts a 5K run and fitness walk. This year’s special guest is legendary Olympic medalist Billy Mills.
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Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta September 26-30 The five-day event, held in city hotels and restaurants, includes seminars, tastings, wine luncheons and dinners, workshops and auctions with local and national chefs and vintners. A grand tasting under tents on the Santa Fe Opera grounds provides a festive wrapup to the fiesta.
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Harvest Festival at El Rancho de las Golondrinas October 6-7 Help costumed villagers bring in the harvest, crush wine grapes by foot, string chile ristras, make bread and tortillas and participate in other traditional fall activities at this 200-acre Spanish colonial living-history museum just 15 minutes outside Santa Fe.
International Mountain Biking Association World Summit October 8-13 The conference features a bicycling trade fair and organized trail rides designed to help attendees experience Santa Fe’s outstanding mountain biking terrain.
Winter Indian Market November 24-25 Sponsored by the Southwestern Association for Indian Arts, the Thanksgiving weekend show and sale features more than 100 Indian Market artists, demonstrations, a silent auction and raffle, and a Native fashion show.
Winter Spanish Market December 1-2 More than 100 artists bring their traditional Spanish colonial work to the Santa Fe Community Convention Center. The market is a special source of authentic tinwork, retablos, straw applique and other historically significant arts and crafts.
Las Posadas mid-December December 9 The annual re-enactment of the Holy Family’s search for shelter features a candlelight procession, acoustic guitar and Spanish folk songs, devils on the rooftops of the buildings surrounding the Plaza, and cookies and hot cocoa in the courtyard of the Palace of the Governors.
Canyon Road Christmas Eve Walk December 24 Farolitos (candles in brown paper bags) and luminarias (bonfires) light Canyon Road and illuminate paths to galleries and private homes. Hot cider, caroling, dogs wearing antlers and kids in strollers make this annual event one of the most popular in Santa Fe.
The pueblos A number of dances, feasts and processions take place at Northern New Mexico pueblos between mid-November and early January. Visit http://santafe. org/Visiting_Santa_Fe/Things_to_Do/ Indian_Pueblos/Eight_Northern_ Indian_Pueblos/ for a complete listing.
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