DI VERSI TY I N
FASHI ON
ARE THE CHANGI NG VALUES OFCONSUMERS OFFASHI ON LI NES?
I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI /
I NFLUENCI NG THE DESI GN AND PRODUCTI ON
I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI /
I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI /
I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI /
Ther ehasbeenaconst anti nt er esti ndi ver si t y,equal i t y andi ncl usi onwi t hi nt hef ashi oni ndust ryovert hepast decade.Ther ei ssomuchmor edi ver si t ynow,r egar di ng si zes,col our sandhei ght ,sowhyshoul daonesi zedmodel r epr esental lt hesepeopl e?Thewor l dhasl ongbeenr eady f oranaccur at er ef l ect i onoft hewor l dwel i vei nwi t hi nt he f ashi oni ndust ry.Fashi oni sn’ tj ustaboutt hecl ot hesi t ’ s aboutanar r at i veandexpr essi onofone’ ssel f ,i tneedst o beconsci ousoft hesoci alr esponsi bi l i t i esaswel last he ef f ect st hati thasont hemi ndsi ti nf l uences.Tobe di f f er enthasal waysbeenr egar dedasabadt hi ng,buti t i sn’ t ,i tr ef l ect sr eal i t yandi ncl usi vi t ycr eat esauni t yt hat goesbeyondf ashi on.Fort hepastf ew year s,t r uedi ver si t y andr epr esent at i onhasbeennot i cedt hr oughoutt he i ndust ry.Fr om model sofcol ourt ot ansmodel s,andt hose ofdi f f er entst at ur es.Thi schangei si nspi r i ng,andi s maki ngi tevi dentwhenabr andi sn’ ti ncl usi ve.Ast he changi ngval uesofconsumer sar ei nf l uenci ngt hedesi gn andpr oduct i onoff ashi onl i nes,t hei ndust ryhasbegunt o makechangest ot hewaycl ot hesar epr esent ed,andwho t heyar epr esent edby.Wi t hi nmyi nvest i gat i onIwi l l I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I Ni F A S HI ON / Dw I VE S I T Y I Nh F As SHI ON / /c D I V R T Y N F A St HI ON / / VERSI l l u s t r at e/ ho dR i v e r s i t y a i nf l ue n e dE t hS eI i n dI u st r y hr oug hDI / gender ,r aceandbodyi mage.
I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI /
1
N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI I /
GENDER
N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI I /
Thebr i dgebet weengenderr ol esi sbecomi ngi ncr easi ngl y mor enar r ow,notonl yi nt hef ashi oni ndust ry,but t hr oughoutsoci et y,medi aandpol i t i cs.Fr om t hest r eet st o t her unways,t heemer genceofgender l essf ashi oni s sl owl yr evol ut i oni si ngt r adi t i onalgenderr ol eswi t hi nt he f ashi oni ndust ry.Fashi onhasal wayst ypi cal l ybeenspl i t wheni tcomest ogender ,yet ,wi t hr ecentaccept anceand knowl edgesur r oundi ngt heLGBTQ communi t yand t r ansgender / genderbi nary,t hosewhodon’ ti dent i f yas ei t hermal eorf emal ehavebegunavi t alchangewi t hi nt he i ndust ry.Hi st or i cal l y,t hedepi ct i onoft heLGBTQ communi t yhasbeenmost l ynegat i ve,andr ef l ect st he i nt ol er ancef ort hecommuni t yt obet akenser i ousl yand notbeconsi der edwi t hi ncommuni t i es,cul t ur esor soci et i esi ngener al .TheLBGTQ communi t yar eext r emel y act i ver egar di ngdef endi ngt hei rowncul t ur ewi t ht hegoal ofachi evi ngvi si bi l i t yandaccept ancewi t hi nsoci et yas wel lasmedi aandt hef ashi oni ndust ry.Fordecades, peopl ehavef acedvi ol enceandi nequal i t ybecauseoft he wayt heyi dent i f y.
I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I NV FA Sws HI ON /c D I V E R T I N F A HI / / Vo ER T Y N F A ON /DI VERSI i e co/ n e r n i nS gI gY en de r ,S ( o rON r at h eD rI n gS eI n d eI r ) , t eS nHI dt o / / changewi t hr ace,age,wher eyouar ebor n,wher eyouar e
br oughtupandr el i gi on.Ther ef or e,t heunder st andi ngof gendercandi f f eri nt er msofagendaandbel i ef sr at her t hanj ustage.Onewoul dbel i evet hatf ashi oni ndust ry woul dbet hemostaccept i ngwheni tcomest ogenderor t heLGBTQ communi t yi ngener albutt hi si sn’ tqui t et he case.Percast i ngdi r ect or ,CodyChandl er( dazed. com) ,as r ecent l yas2015,gaymodel shavebeendi scour agedf r om bei ngopenaboutt hei rsexual i t y.Tocombatt hi s,sol e agenci esf orLGBTQ f aceshaveemer ged,wi t ht heai mt o becomet hegot of orbr andswhowantt obedi ver se,as wel lasf eat ur i ngar angeofdi f f er entgender sand sexual i t i es. Thought hei ndust ryhasbeenpai nt edi nanegat i vel i ght , t hevi ew ongenderi sshi f t i ng.Peopl ewantt oseemor e di ver si t yandr epr esent at i onwi t hi nt hef ashi oni ndust ry andmor eaccur at er epr esent at i onoft hemsel vesi n adver t i si ng.Theconceptofgenderneut r alf ashi on,i s gr owi ngf astwi t ht hei nf l uenceofGenZ bei ngmor e accept i ngofi ndi vi dual i t yandexpr essi on.
Today,peopl et endt obuyf r om bot ht hef emal eand mal esect i onst hi nki ngi tpoi nt l esst oputgender l abel soncl ot hi ng.Successf ulvi si onsofnonbi nary cl ot hi ngwor kbestwhenawhol esoci et yshar et hi s vi ewpoi nt .Aspr esent edbyMenkes( vogue. com) Nor di ccount r i esl i keFi nl andandSwedenhave al r eadyst ar t edbl ur r i ngoutgendernor mswi t hi n f ashi on.Pr eschool si nSwedenar et ryi ngt ot each chi l dr eni nagender neut r almanor .Theschool shave r emovedt het er ms“ boy”and“ gi r l ”andi nst eaduse t hegender neut r alpr onoun“ hen” .Ther ef or e,i tbegs t hequest i oni fdi ver si t yandt her ol esofgenderar e onl yr egar dedt osoci et i eswher et hepeopl ear el ess openmi nded? I nt er msofmar ket s,i ti st hehi gherl uxurysect or s whoar emor eavi di nt heexper i ment at i onand expr essi onofgender .Gendernor mshaveal r eady f al l enwi t hSummer / Spr i ng2018menswear showcasi ngsomepr i meexampl esoft hei ndust ry shi f t i ngt owar dsagender f l ui denvi r onment .Thom Br ownedesi gnedacol l ect i ont hati ncl udedmal e model sdr essedi ngr eypl eat edski r t s.Ot her exampl esi ncl udedesi gner ssuchasChar l esJef f r ey,a sel f pr ocl ai medcl ubki dwhohaspi oneer edhi sbr and ‘ Lover boy’ont hecr eat i vequeerscene.Anot hergr eat exampl ei sAr tSchoolLondon,t hei rbr andnar r at i ve concent r at esonsel f expr essi onandbei ng comf or t abl ei nr epr esent i ngt hemsel veswi t houtt he const r ai nt sofgendernor ms.Foryear s,ant if ashi on br andssuchasCommedesGar conandYohj i Yamamot ohavechal l engedt henor msofgender , compel l i ngwhati sr i ghtandwr ongandconcent r at i ng mor eont hear toft hegar mentt hanwhatgenderi t f i t si nt o.Wi t hi nl owermar ketl evel s,genderf l ui di t y i sn’ taspopul arasi ti swi t hi npr est i gi ousvi si onary ashi onhouses.Onl yi nt hel astf ew year swehave f seenbr andssuchasZar aandH&M br i ngont hei rown uni sexf ashi onl i nes( whowhat wear . com) .
Tomaket heshoppi ngexper i encemor egender neut r al ,st or eshavebeguncr eat i ngf l ui dspaces,f or exampl eSel f r i dgesconceptspace“ Agender ”i sa uni quegender l essshoppi ngexper i enceacr oss f ashi on,accessor i esandbeaut y,movi ngt heshoppi ng exper i enceawayf r om si mpl y“ hi sand“ her s” . nf l uenceofcel ebr i t yi sundeni abl ei nt oday’ s Thei f ashi on,andt hei ri nf l uenceonconsumerhabi t s.Wi t h soci almedi a,suchasI nst agr am,br andscanuse medi aaswel lascel ebr i t i est oexpr esst hei rl oyal t i es andval ueswi t hi ndi ver si t y.Thei rpr ochoi cef ashi ons cont r i but et ot hegender l essmovement smoment um. Anexampl eoft hi swoul dbeJadenSmi t happear i ngi n Loui sVui t t on’ sSpr i ng/ Summer17campai gnwear i nga ski r t ,addi ng“ wear i ngaski r tcomesnat ur al l yt ohi m” ( vogue. com) Thef i r stt hi ngwedowheni nt r oducedt oani ndi vi dual i st odet er mi net hei rgender ,andwi t hpr essi ng mat t er sofequal i t yandbei ngabl et oexpr essyour sel f t odays,gender l essnor msar ei ncr easi ngl yi mpor t ant t ot heconsumeroft oday.Thought hei ndust ryhas st ar t edt omakesl i ghtchangest her ei sst i l lal ong wayt ogoi nt er msofdi ver si t yandi ncl usi vi t y r egar di nggender .
2
N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI I /
RACE
N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI I /
Racecanbeacont r over si alt opi cofdi scussi on,as di scussedbyJer emyLewi s( di smagazi ne. com)r acei sa compl exweavi ngofper sonal ,soci al ,cul t ur aland psychol ogi caldi scussi onsandt hesl i ght esti naccur acy canbemi si nt er pr et edast hewor sti nt ent i on.Accusat i ons ofr aci sm wi t hi nt hef ashi oni ndust ryhasbeenaper si st ent i ssuef ormanyyear s.Fr om al l whi t ecat wal ks,t omakeup ar t i stnotcomi ngpr epar edt owor kwi t hbl ackmodel s,t o cul t ur alsymbol sbei ngusedandsol dt omul t i t udes,asa soci et ywear emor eawar enow t haneverofhow t hi s behavi ourwi t hi nanymedi um wi l lnotbet ol er at ed.Thi s behavi ouri si gnor ant ;i tof f endsandexcl udes.The i ndust ry’ st endencyt opi geonhol ebl ackmodel si nt o cer t ai nni ches( ‘ ur ban’or‘ exot i c’ )hasl ef tmul t i cul t ur al model sunder r epr esent edandunder pai d.Andt her ef or e, consumer sdonotf eelt hatt heyar er epr esent edwel l wi t hi nt hef ashi oni ndust ry,whenal lt heyseei st hesame whi t ef aceoneveryt hi ng.Yet ,wear ei nat i mewher e f ashi oni ncel ebr at i ngi ndi vi dual i t yandhavi ng conver sat i onsaboutr aci aldi ver si t y.Thef ashi on communi t yhaveshownt hatt her ei sawi l landf i ghtf or I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I Ns FA Si HI ON /a D I V Ea Rn Sd I Tp Yr I N F As S HI ON / / DI VE R I T Y I Ni F Au Ss HI ON /DI VERSI oc al eq/ u l i t y o gr e s i v ene ss wi t hS i n t he n d t r y,/ / yetasperEl i zabet hSer gan( f ast company. com) ,l esst han 10% oft hedesi gner satt hel astNew Yor kFashi onWeek wer ebl ack.Andonl y15% oft hemodel swer ebl ack. Consumer sf i ndt hatt heyar esegr egat edwi t hi nt he i ndust ry,andbr andshavebeenaccusedofr aci alpr of i l i ng anddi scr i mi nat i on.JennaShar ma( observer . com) ,gi vesus somepr i meexampl eswi t hVer sace’ sl awsui tr egar di nga t r ai ni ngmanageraski ngempl oyeest ousecode“ D410” wheneveraper sonofcol ourent er edt hest or e.( “ D410”i s t hecodewr i t t enoneverypi eceofbl ackcl ot hi ngi nt he st or e) .AnAl exanderMcQueenSt or ewassuedt hr eet i mes byf or merempl oyeesoverr aci alpr of i l i ngand di scr i mi nat i on.Ther ei sapat t er nt obef oundher e,r aci al pr of i l i nganddi scr i mi nat i onar ef oundmor ef r equent l y wi t hi nt hehi gherl uxurymar ket .Thought her ear e exampl esofdi scr i mi nat i onwi t hi nl owermar ketsect or s.I n 2017,H&M wer er i di cul edf oranadt hatf eat ur edabl ack l dwear i ngasweat shi r twi t ht hewor ds“ cool estmonkey chi i nt hewor l d” ,whi chdr ew publ i caccusat i onsofr aci sm al l oversoci almedi a.
I tappear st hatt hel ackofmi nor i t yr epr esent at i oni sa r eoccur r i ngt hemewi t hi nt hef ashi oni ndust ry.Some oft hewor l d’ sl eadi ngmodel sandvi si onar i esar ef r om var i ouset hni cbackgr ounds,yeti tseemst hatt he mi nor i t i esar est i l lwel lunder r epr esent edwi t hi n f ashi onorcul t ur alappr opr i at i oni sj ustan af t er t hought .Model shavebeent ur nedawayor r ej ect edf r om br andsbecause“ peopl ei nt hei ndust ry sayi fyouhaveabl ackf aceont hecoverofa magazi nei twon’ tsel l ”( Sai r aMi r za, f r ont r owedi t . com) .I ti scl ear l yt i mef ort hef ashi on wor l dt oadapti t sel ft oevol vi ngmar ket sof r epr esent at i on.Notj ustwi t hi nf ashi on,buti nt er msof beaut yst andar dst oo,t hef ashi oni ndust ryneedst o oadeni t shor i zonsi nt heset er msandbemor e br consci ousandr epr esent at i veoft hewor l dar oundus. Though,wear ebegi nni ngt oseeadi f f er ence r egar di ngr aceandi ncl usi vi t ywi t hi nt hef ashi on i ndust ry,andmor emi nor i t yf acesar ebei ngseen wi t hi nbr andsandonsoci almedi apl at f or ms.Di gi t al i nf l uencessuchasmodel sl i keWi nni eHar l ow,who suf f er sf r om Vi t i l i go,pr omot i ngconf i dencef ort hose l i vi ngwi t ht hesamecondi t i on.Ot herexampl es i ncl udeHal i maAdenwhowast hef i r stMusl i m hi j abt o wal kahi ghf ashi onr unway.Tomovef or war d,i ti s obvi oust hatt hei ndust rymustdomor el i ket hi st o pr omot ei ncl usi vi t y.Br andsendupr i ski ngt hei r r eput at i onsbynotappeal i ngt oawi derr angeof cul t ur esandsoci et i es,t hewor l di sr eadyf ort hi s changeandt hei ndust ryneedst okeepup.Consumer ebegi nni ngt oconf r ontsubver tr aci sm andt o ar ensur et hei rvi si onsandvoi cesar ehear dt hr oughout t hei ndust ry.
3
N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI I /
BODY
N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI I /
Thepastt woyear shasbeenf ashi onsmostbodyposi t i ve t i mes,cel ebr at i ngf l aws.Cer t ai ncl ot hi ngbr andsar e expandi ngt hei rsi zi ng,andsomecampai gnhavest ar t edt o i ncl udel essphot oshoppedi magesofdi ver si t ysi zed model st hatar emor er epr esent at i veoft hewaypeopl e l ook.Soci almedi ai smaki ngi ti ncr easi ngl yeasi ert obui l d apl at f or m andspeakoni ssuesr egar di ngdi ver si t yand bodyi ma oughf ashi on,model shaveexpr essedt hat m ge.Thr t heyar emor et hanj ust‘ cl ot heshanger s’ ,becomi ngmor e out spokenont hei ssuesr egar di ngbodyi magewi t hi nt he f ashi oni ndust ry.
However ,t her eal i t yofi ncl usi vi t yr egar di ngbodyi magei s mor ebl eakt hanant i ci pat ed.Thoughwear eseei ngmor e pl ussi zedmodel swi t hi ni ndust rycat wal ks,t heyar est i l l r ar eespeci al l ywheni tcomest hehi ghendmar ket .Wear e onl yseei ngt okeni sm i nst eadofwi despr eadaccept ance. Model sofvar i oussi zeshavebeennot abl yt ur neddownby f ashi onhousesf orbei ngt ooshor t ,orappear i ngt obl oat ed, whi chi sr i di cul ous.Asasoci et y,weal ldon’ tf i tunderone si zef i t sal lsowhyshoul di tber epr esent edt hi sway I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I Nt F Ar S HI ON / /s D I V TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI h o ug hf a h i oE nR ?SI
/
Ther ei sasl i ghtshi f toccur r i ngwi t hi nt hei ndust ry desi gnerChr i st i anSi r i anohadhi sr unwayador nedby womenofal ldi f f er entshapesandsi zes,i ncl udi ng12 pl ussi zegi r l s.Ashel yGr aham i st hef i r stpl ussi zedmodel t of eat ur eont hecoverofspor t sI l l ust r at edswi msui t addi t i on,andmadei tont oFor bes2017l i stoft hewor l d’ s Hi ghestPai dModel s.Shecont i nuest ochal l enget hevi ews ofwhatmodel l i nghasbeeni nt hepast .Si nger ,desi gner andent r epr eneurRi hanna’ sl at estl i nger i ecol l ect i onwon pr ai sef ort hedi ver seandbodyposi t i vel i neupofmodel s sheempl oyedt owal kherSavagexFent yshow.Wi t hi n l owermar ketl evel swehaveseenbr andssuchas‘ Pr et t y Li t t l eThi ng’ ,adver t i secl ot hi ngshowi ngar egul arandpl us si zedmodelaswel lcr eat i ngexcl usi vecampai gnswi t h pl ussi zedi nf l uencer sandcel ebr i t i es.
Wi t hi nshoppi ngexper i ences,i nl owermar ketst or es ( most l yf astf ashi on) ,t her ehasbeenanot i ceabl e changei nt hewaycl ot hesar epr esent edt her ear e mor espacesf orPl usSi zedcl ot hi ng.Whi l eonl i ne br andsar ebegi nni ngt ost openhanci ngi magesof model .Get t i ngr i doft heai r br ushedper f ectgi r l ,and i nst eadshowi ngf l awssuchasmol es,cel l ul i t eand st r et chmar ks.Asmostwomenhavet heseat t r i but es andt heyshoul dber epr esent edast hi si st heway womenandmenl ooki nl i f e.Mostnot abl eexampl esof t hi sar eMi sgui dedandAsos,whoar ecampai gni ng agai nstt he‘ per f ect ’i mageandi nst eadst r i vef ora mor enat ur al ,r eal ,r epr esent at i onofmenandwomen. PerGr ant( wel l andgood. com)consumer sar e50 per centmor ei nt er est edi nphot osofmodel swho r epr esentt heaver agewomenormanr at hert hanan ai r br ushedf ant asy.Communi t i esr espondwel lt o br andswhot heyshar eadynami cmi ndsetwi t har e f armor el i kel yt obuyf r om abr andt hatr epr esent s i ncl usi vi t yanddi ver si t y. Yet ,canwecal lt hi spr ogr ess?Especi al l ywhenso manyi ndi vi dual sf r om awi derr angef r om di sabi l i t i es t ocondi t i onsar esounderr epr esent edwi t hi nt he f ashi oni ndust ryi ti shar dt ohonest l ybel i evet hatt he i ndust ryhasmadeagr eatst epi nt er msofdi ver si t y andi ncl usi vi t ywheni nf act ,t heyhaveonl yj ustbegun t odel vei nt ot hesemat t er s.
I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI /
I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI TY I N FASHI ON / /DI VERSI /
SHANNON EVANS