Alexander McQueen: Fashion Visionary by Shavonne Lenard

McQUEEN alexander

FASHION VISIONARY

EDITED SHAVONNE

LENARD

ALEXAN

NDER Mc HION cQUEEN

VISIONA

NDER Mc

VISION cQUEEN

N ALEXAN

ARY FASH

McQUEEN alexander

FASHION VISIONARY

EDITED SHAVONNE

LENARD

Copyright ÂŠ 2019 by Shavonne Lenard All Rights Reserved. This book or any portion there of may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the publisher except for the use of brief quotations in a book review. Printed in the United States of America First Printing, 2019 ISBN 0-1104018-0-0

Shavonne A. Lenard 7211 Polo Downs San Antonio, TX 78218 www.alexandermcqueenvisionary.com

D E D I C AT I O N

Sanaa and Tony, Know that I do this for you guys. I do everything, I do for you two. Thank you for being so supportive. I love you both.

CONTENTS dedication

chapter 1 : mcqueen was born

chapter 2: a new boss in town

chapter 3 : reborn

timeline

chapter 4 : a personal interview

bibolography

index

MC QUEEN IS BORN

ONE CHAPTER

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

CHAPTER ONE: MC QUEEN WAS BORN

ee Alexander McQueen was born on March 17, 1969, into a working-class family living in public housing in London’s Lewisham district. His father, Ronald, was a cab driver, and his mother, Joyce, taught social science. On their small incomes, they supported McQueen and his five siblings. McQueen, called “Lee” by his friends for most of his life, went to the Rokeby School for Boys when he was younger. McQueen stated that we was not very good at school. While doing his lessons he noticed that he was drawing clothes in every lesson. His favorite subject during school was of course Art.

At age 16, McQueen dropped out of school, he was not really sure what he wanted to do with his life. While watching a television with his mother Joyce, it stated they couldn’t get apprentices to work on Savile Row. So she suggested he go down and try to get work. He found work on the famous Savile Row, a street in London’s Mayfair district famous for offering made to-order men’s suits. He worked first with the tailor shop Anderson and Shephard. He stated that he could not survive working in such a small place. And then moved to nearby Gieves and Hawkes. While working at Gieves and Hawkes it was reported that he once embroidered a suit for the Prince of Wales with the words “I am a c**t” (in the lining).

CHAPTER ONE: MC QUEEN WAS BORN

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

he learn that you can take a subject

get inspiration to design clothing.

In the nineties he began working with Koji Tatsuno. He walked in the door and instructed him that he could do work half as good as the tailor Tatsuno had on staffed. Koji at the time himself was a experimental designer. Lee wanted to learn everything that Tatsuno was willing to teach. He began making clothes for his sister Janet. He then began working at Red or Dead. They were looking for technical help that had hand on experiences. While working at this young street wear company he learn that you can take a subject and get inspiration to design clothing. Here is wear he learned the concept of visual research.

MC QUEEN, 21 AT THE WORKROOM OF ROMEO GIGLI.

CHAPTER ONE: MC QUEEN WAS BORN

The creative director gave him a bit of advice and suggested him to move to Italy. With no concept of the language, no money, no place to stay, and no qualifications he left for Italy. After, being there for a week he received a job as a assistant at Romeo Gigli. While working there Romeo stated that Alexander was always interested in learning more so he decided to leave to learn and study more. He then enrolled himself in St. Martin’s School of Art in London. Bobby Hillson, the founder of MA fashion course said he arrived there asking for a job. She told him at the time she didn’t have a job for him available. There she seen something passionate in him & that he should join her course. His aunt paid for him to take courses there. So there in November 90’ he began studying to receive his Masters of The Arts in Fashion Design. Thus, designer Alexander McQueen was born. He had his first fashion collection British Fashion Week for his final portfolio piece in the Spring of 1992. His first fashion show theme was inspired of Jack The Ripper called Jack The Ripper Stalks His Victims. Little did we know Alexander McQueen would be born.

CHAPTER ONE: MC QUEEN WAS BORN

“I find

BEAUTY in the

GROTESQUE, like most artists.”

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

he took anything and made it out of clothing . That entire degree show was bought by influential stylist Isabella Blow in 1991. This began a long time friendship between the two of them that lasted until her death. Once she brought the collection he graduated and earned his master’s degree in fashion design from London’s Central Saint Martins in 1992. Soon after obtaining his degree, Alexander McQueen started his own business designing clothes for women. He met his boyfriend Andrew Groves who began helping him along others work on his collection. With no money, no studio, nothing to his name he sought out to create his namesake collection. He survived on unemployment benefits at the time. He brought all his fabrics with his dole money, and ate at his parents’ home. Isabella Blow is who suggested he drop Lee and just simply go by Alexander McQueen. She stated it sound more royal and romantic as a brand. He met enormous success with the introduction of his “bumster” pants, so named because of their extremely low-cut waistline. His clothes couldn’t be reproduced or copied.

CHAPTER ONE: MC QUEEN WAS BORN

He took anything and made it out of clothing. He was simply brilliant. He would see cling wrap and say hey I’m going to use that and put a zipper on it, or getting a tire and running it over the suit. It was genus things like that made McQueen extraordinary. His outfits were very cost effective. He was taking the fashion industry by storm, but had no clue how to provide for himself the next day.

CHAPTER ONE: MC QUEEN WAS BORN

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

THE

HIGHLAND

RAPE

COLLECTION

CIRCA 95, HIGHLAND RAPE COLLECTION

While working on his next fashion collection he created The Highland Rape collection. It was inspired off his heritage and the woman in his family. His mother being one of them. She and Alexander himself had a strong bond. His mother researched there geneogoly and Lee went with it. Thus the Highland Rape collection began. He stated that there was two types of Scotland people associated themselves with, Vivianne Westwood romantic Scotland. Then the other side was Jacobines of Scotland. The English raped loads of women. Killed clans completely off, and it was like genocide. This was clear inspiration for the new collection. He stayed up late creating sketch after sketch. Working to music, moving as if it was therapeutic therapy for him. He was able to create a jacket freehand. He wanted to make his family proud.

CHAPTER ONE: MC QUEEN WAS BORN

The darkness that he took. He went to the depths and recesses to create these pieces. His collection wasn’t easy to look at. People have said the pieces look as if the clothing came from a crime scene. Once the pieces came from down the runway, they movement of the fabric on the woman to the silhouette was mind blowing. The collection sparked much controversy. They stated that he made every single headline of the papers. The tittle itself of the show turned a few heads. It was stated that he gave fashion a bad name. That the collection was a insult to woman. It was a horror show. He viewed women in a ugly light. For McQueen his thoughts on the collection was quite the opposite. He speaks from when his older sister was beaten by her husband. He said “seeing that at such a young age was all you want to do is make women look stronger.“ It was his truth speaking as those garments came down that runway. It was all related to his childhood and trauma that had occurred to the women around him. He himself was abused by his brother-in-law he spoke to his former boyfriend at the time. He just wanted women to take back that power in by protecting themselves by creating these strong pieces.

CHAPTER ONE: MC QUEEN WAS BORN

“ALL YOU WANT TO

DO IS MAKE

WOMEN

LOOK STRONGER.” ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

CIRCA 92, JACK THE RIPPER COLLECTION

CHAPTER ONE: MC QUEEN WAS BORN

CIRCA 92, JACK THE RIPPER COLLECTION

CHAPTER ONE: MC QUEEN WAS BORN

jack the ripper

collection ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

A NEW BOSS IN TOWN

TWO CHAPTER

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

“

...I’LL NEVER EVER WANT TO WORK SOMEWHERE LIKE THAT.

McQueen, once attended a show with a classmate of his, Rebecca Barton. It was required of them when they go to St. Martin’s in the first year they go Paris, France. The idea of them going was to experience exhibitions to learn more. Rebecca and Lee spent most of their time sneaking into different fashion shows. She recalled a show they went to and how it was full of florals. He complained the whole time about how the line was rubbish and was a load of crap. The line he was referring to just so happen to be Givenchy. He also expressed the line was for old ladies and stated “I’ll never, ever want to work somewhere like that.” After, John Galliano departed Givenchy they needed some fresh blood there. Guess who surprising took over as the new creative director? Alexander McQueen, and he would be debuting the 1997 collection. While starting a new job, he began a new relationship with Murray Arthur. He asked Arthur would he move also with him if he moved to Paris. Many wondered why he went to Givenchy even though he had created a name for himself already, having already one British Designer of the Year twice in a row. He stated “For one reason the money was good. And the money I received from Givenchy I put it straight back into McQueen, and that helps me employ people for McQueen to build my own company.“ He brought on Sebastian Pons as the Assistant Designer.

CHAPTER TWO:: A NEW BOSS IN TOWN

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

THE

FOR

THE

While working on Givenchy, he did things a lot different than the company was used to. He did things the McQueen way. He mingled with the workers, he ate with them. The fashion house treated the head designer like kings, and that they did. Lee just wanted to be Lee, never anything bigger. In 25 days, he pulled together a 55 outfit collection together which was nothing short of a easy task. On January 19th, 1997, at the age of 27 years old Lee debuted his first haute couture collection. Every model that walked down that runway had to have a identity of their own. The idea was for every single girl to been seen on her own to stand out. The inspiration for this collection McQueen stated it came from the logo of Givenchy. The Greek motif and the white-gold combo.

CHAPTER TWO:: A NEW BOSS IN TOWN

GOLDEN

FLEECE

Lee’s collections was always known to have that risqué factor. In typical Lee fashion he sparked some of the designer there in France. Debra Shaw, a model for that collection stated that some French designers felt that the pieces where not even French and that they were trying to take over the legendary name of Givenchy. He was getting criticized from left and right. It was the world was against him. For his first show it was not a huge major success. They were kind of ready to see him crash and burn. They was excited for his downfall. Lee stated “They have claws, and they have knives and they’ve thrown everything which if fine, cause I’m a good fighter. McQueen was very upset after the review of the show. He was torn up about the whole ordeal. It was hard for him to take over a Givenchy which was a house with its own legacy. Givenchy changed everything for him. The fun times was over. Also, Alexander and Issie’s friendship was changing at this time because of money. McQueen also people assumed that Isabella made him which hurt time. He ended up cutting Issie out of Givenchy.

“THEY HAVE ,& THEY HAVE ,& THEY’VE THROWN

—MCQUEEN

.” 21

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

IT’S

JUNGLE

OUT

THERE

This time he was going to his way. He said forget the couture thing. He said “ I tried to please them and then I f*cked it up, so I’m going to do my own thing.” It’s going to be very McQueen the next one. He wanted to show the rough part of London. He wanted to make them a bit scared. Scared to look over there shoulder, just scared in general. It was nothing to do with couture. They warned him you are forgetting about Givenchy. The night of the show arrived. The audience was tense and the air reeked of anticipation. People were fighting to see the catwalk. Students that were not allowed in the show kicked over some pots of fire. This started a fire. The fire started because they had piles of wreaked cars. They were not sure if they empty the cars of gas. So the car is actually on fire that is on the catwalk. Crazy enough everyone thought it was a part of the show. McQueen screams “Don’t you f*cking dare go out there with fire extinguishers.” He wanted the show to keep going which is did.

CHAPTER TWO:: A NEW BOSS IN TOWN

CIRCA 97, IT’S A JUNGLE OUT THERE COLLECTION

CHAPTER TWO:: A NEW BOSS IN TOWN

I F*CKED IT , SO I’M TO DO OWN THING. —McQUEEN

CIRCA 97, IT’S A JUNGLE OUT THERE COLLECTION

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

NO.

with more money, came more drugs. By Spring 2001 McQueen, began splitting his time between London and Paris to commit to Givenchy and McQueen. Of course all of the traveling began to take a toll on him, but being who he was he managed. The shows were still amazing despite it all. He was doing his own line and still working on Givenchy which caused way more pressure for the designer. He did begin to find out LVHM was giving another designer four times the amount they was giving him to create the haute couture collection for Givenchy. Being in Paris taught him to have a softer side to his palette more than he did before. He took those skills and brought that back to London. For season thirteen Lee, knew exactly what he wanted to do for his upcoming collection. He was coming to be at peace with himself.

CHAPTER TWO:: A NEW BOSS IN TOWN

While working on this show he kept Bringing up the concept for a robot. The robot concept finally came alive, but needed a dress for the model Shalom Harlow to wear while be surrounded by the robot arms. They went back to the studio and created this massive dress full of tulle. And he was like “Hey, there’s the dress.”They told McQueen it was impossible. He told them that it wasn’t of course. He made people do the impossible. He got some technicians to help operate the robots. He help direct the robots which ended up creating this beautiful choreography and her spinning. In the end, the machine spray painted a design on the tulle creating this master piece. It was the first time man and machine was in a fashion show together. This was Lee started to break outside of fashion and become famous. He was coming into his own. He began to wish he was just a normal person with a normal life. The more he got famous the more money came. With more money, came the drugs. He began taking cocaine and it made him look at things differently with all that was going on.

CHAPTER TWO: A NEW BOSS IN TOWN

”

CIRCA, 01 MODEL SHALOM HARLOW

“

IT’STHEFIRSTTIME I’VE CRIED AT MY SHOW. —McQUEEN

CIRCA 01, NO.13 COLLECTION

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

Because of him taking the drugs, his personality began to change. Murray stated It was definitely a change and a move in their relationship. He could come in a super cool mood, full of laughter, or it could be the devil crossing the door. Murrary said “He was obliviously he was a very troubled person, and the darkness created this amazing creativity, and genus artist.”The big thing in his life that he was in love with was his work. He also did not trust anyone. He was not happy with himself.He even changed his appearance. He got liposuction done. Once he got it done he realized it was the wrong thing to do, because he said “I have completely lost touch with who I was.” He was becoming something he really did not want to be, a persona. His team also started to feel the pressure around them. Pons stated that “ I collapsed once in Givenchy, because of the pressure and the work load. We had a price to pay, and it was out health. Sabatian Pons said he had a conversation with Lee about feeling trapped and overwhelmed. Lee told him “You better think about it, because there is no way back. ”Pons left McQueen, and he remember the pain he felt from leaving. Lee was known for taking a lot of things to heart without knowing or caring how the other person felt. He would take it personal when someone would leave or if he felt betrayed.

CHAPTER TWO:: A NEW BOSS IN TOWN

“AND THE

DARKNESS

CREATED

THIS

AMAZING

CREATIVITY,

& GENIUS

.”

A L E X A N D E R M C Q U E E N : F A S H I O N V I S I O N A R Y3737

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

In Sept 2001, he began to create the Voss show. The original concept was a padded cell. Lee, of course wanted it to be grander. He wanted another box in the center of the room. He wanted a theatrical climax to the show. He explained to writer and Voss model, Michelle Olley that he wanted that the show was about death, beauty, and the rebirth and he wanted it to be beautiful. Lee wanted to recreate Joel-Peter Witkin’s famous Incubus image. Olley told him with a serious face after he told her the idea and concept with a serious face “I’m doing this for art.” He replied to her I thought we all weren’t we. The overall feel of the stage was a insane asylum feel to it. He also had a two way mirror. The music was intense like a heart beat. No one knew what to expect from the show. They all waited in anticapation and eager. The show begins and you see the models walking in the box. The real surprise was that the models could not see you, but you could see them. He used bandages on the models head and it had slight feeling of unease and sickness. Alexander felt that “Life isn’t Perfect, and we’re not all perfect. We’re not all size-zero models, but there is beauty within the eye of the beholder.” Tom Ford who was creative director of Gucci at the time noticed the young Lee. Ford stated “Every season, whose collection do I look at and whose collection, am I jealous of in a sense? And whose collection do I think are absolutely amazing? The wonderful thing about Lee is he poet and commerce united.“ Lee being smart knew he need the financial help. So Gucci group, offered him a deal that McQueen could not refuse. They underwrote & invested his company, and gave him 50% of ownership. He had complete freedom to do him.

CHAPTER TWO:: A NEW BOSS IN TOWN

CIRCA, 01OLLEY VOSS COLLECTION

VOSS

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

REBORN

THREE CHAPTER

“IF YOU

WANNA

KNOW

ME, JUST

LOOK

AT MY WORK”

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

fashion can be a very superficial business. Once he he left Givenchy, he moved to Fairlight, East Sussex. He spent a lot of time with his family. He moved to a house that was near the sea. He found that he need a break just to take time for himself, He just needed time to regroup to gather his thoughts. He spent time with his sister Janet a lot. He felt that his fashion kept him grounded from the world. When he went back to England he focused on giving back to those where he once was. He gave those jobs who was once students like him so they could get a step into the fashion world. He also helped his nephew get into fashion.

MC QUEEN, FRIEND AND MENTOR ISSABELLA BLOW.

CHAPTER THREE: REBORN

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

He stated If you want to know me just look at my work. He felt that his work spoke for him. He felt good about himself. Shorty, there after his long time friend Isabella Blow had died at age 48 from cancer. Her death was a huge blow to so many people, including Lee. He was completley devastated. Many said you could see the pain on his face at her funeral. Issie death turned his world upside down. He did see her and made peace before she left this world. When Issie passed he dedicated his show, La Dame Bleue to her and her memoir. Everything about the show translated, Issie. His sister stated once Isabella died he sanked into a dark, dark place.

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

found out that he was hiv After being apart for a long three years. Sebastian they returned. Lee and Sebastain returned back together like nothing had ever occured. They just started again like the brothers that they once were. So Sebastian took the ferry to Ibiza where Lee was living at his villa. Sebastian recalls when McQueen opened the door he was in shock. He stated he was a different person. He was very skinny , pale and looked fragile. Sebastian noticed then it was something then that was different about him. He looked just like bones. He was losing himself. His nephew talks about for his next show Lee had the idea of his face transform into a skull. Everything in his life had just led to these feelings of tomrnet. He found out that he was HIV + postive. Even though now it is not a death sentence, he always was in back of his mind constantly.

CHAPTER THREE: REBORN

positive

He was also over come with a real depression as well. His sister Janet stated that the trouble that Lee had after a show, would have done this grand build up, done the hard work you could see he would be down, but it was always on to the next show for him.

CHAPTER THREE: REBORN

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

He has stated “If I ever get that old and I’m still around and leave my company. I’ll burn the place down. Just have no one work there.” The interviewer asks him you would not want someone to take over McQueen? He said he didn’t think so. He went on to say because “that persin will have to come up with concepts for my show, and his shows are so personal, how can that be? ” He line was apart of him they had become intertwined with one of another. His sister Janet asked quite often why did he not step away for a year? He felt like he couldn’t step away and that he was responsivle for fifty people and they’re life didn’t stop because he stepped away. They still had bills to met also and he just couldn’t do that to them . He just could not stop.

CHAPTER THREE: REBORN

He felt like there was more to life than fashion he felt that he didn’t want to be stuck or confined in that bubble of this was what he do. He felt a bit lonely at times in this industry. He felt that once the others left the office they can shut the fashion off. For him it was a bit different because he’s still Alexander McQueen after he shut the door. It would never stop. He felt even if he had a bad day at the work he would only have himself to plan. He would have to anwer to himself and himself only. Long time friend Sebastian said you could start to notice that he was not himself. McQueen would try to pretend like everything was okay but they knew other wise. Everyone around him that he was not hundred percent himself. It was said he could hear voices. He once told Sebastian that they were chasing him. He said something often that Lee would say to him and others would be “Paranoia will destroy ya”.

CHAPTER THREE: REBORN

“....AND I

LEAVE MY

COMPANY,

I’LL BURN

THE PLACE

DOWN.”

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

P L AT O ’ S

AT L A N T I S

i’ve designed my last collection. The beginning stages of the concept of his next show came to life. Bennett started working on the design concept for the for the next show which was named Plato’s Atlantis. It had a lot of cameras around, and the cameras would be on robots. The cameras would be right up in your face. The thought was about being under surveillance, making the audience uncomfortable as possible. Lee wanted the overall theme is where people come from the land and go back inro the sea. Lee was always found of the sea. He stated he was looking for something that doesn’t exist. Something that was just the most amazing, beautiful place. Gary, his nephew stated that Lee loved swimming, scuba diving. Just that serentiy he got from the overall feeling.

CHAPTER THREE: REBORN

Plato’s Atlantis was the study in his head with the all the pattern cutting, robots. He told friend and colleague Sebastian “I designed, my last collection, Sebastion and I’ve had enough with all this. i’m going to kill myself. ” He replied to him what do you mean kill yourself? Lee told him “Yep I’m just fed up, I’ve had it with this. I just want to put a end to it. ” McQueen told him you know Voss and how the box came out. I’m going to come out of the ground in the box then come up and then shoot himself. He did feel like the fashion industry was against him. He felt alone and by himself. While preparing for the show in the back of the show. One of the models recalled him saying act as that everything is finished. We are reborn. We are starting new, we are starting fresh. A lot have said that this collection was something revloutionary for him.

CHAPTER THREE: REBORN

CIRCA, 09 PLATOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ATLANTIS COLLECTION

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

“

...IF SHE HAD NOT ME NOR WOULD YOU. — MCQUEEN

CHAPTER THREE: REBORN

Around this time his mother was sick also. She was currently of dialysis on the time. Janet said that her brother had a hard time deal with this. Lee did not want to deal with the fact they may soon will lose their mother. He would not allow himself since he not that long ago had lost Issie. He wasn’t dealing well with his mother being so ill and possibly leaving this earth soon. She passed away in February 3, 2010. Lee was in a really bad place. He twitted “ I’m letting my followers know the my mother passed away yesterday. If it she had not me nor would you . RIP MUM xxxx. ”After she passed he was really distraught. Everyone in there family was sad about her passing, but everyone was worried about him. Him and his mother was very close. He idolized his mother. Last job he gave his nephew was the job to design Joyce’s headstone. The last conversation that him and his sister had was about their mother’s funeral arrangements. They didn’t know their world would change again.

CHAPTER THREE: REBORN

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN & HIS MOTHER JOYCE

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

long . live . mcqueen . On February 11, 2010 the eve of his motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s funeral Lee Alexander McQueen took his own life. He took his life alone in his home by hanging himself. Family and Friend were in complete shock over the news. Janet, his sister that after there mom went that she felt nothing could make him happy anymore. He felt empty and felt the world was better off.

His unfinished collection, Savage Beauty was completed by Sarah Burton, who was head of womenswear. She took over as Creative Director of Alexander McQueen. His collection Savage Beauty went on to having over one million people attending the exhibition breaking admission records at the MET and V&A.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, FINAL RESTING PLACE

So many people greatly miss Lee. His impact has left so many women feeling impowered For some they felt that his clothes was magical. They felt as if he was a magician. Before his death, Lee went on to found the charity Sarabande to help other generations to follow into his footsteps. He did this by creating schloarships to designers for those who came from a disadvantage backgrounds.

CHAPTER THREE: REBORN

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN 1969 -2010

TIMELINE

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

McQueen was born in Lewisha m, South Lo ndon.

1969

1984

1987

Becomes tailo râ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s apprentic e at Anderson & Sheppard in Savile Row

1990 2000

n to work Moves to Mila tter for cu n as a patter er Romeo gn si de n lia Ita returning to Gigli before gin a masterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s London to be shion Design degree in Fa s. Saint Martin l ra from Cent

ce is ten-pie Debuts H llection, Jack co graduate is r Stalks H the Rippe spired by in is Victims, London. Victorian

2003

Gucc i McQ , purchas ueen ed leave . s Giv He also ench y.

T 64

TIMELINE

1992

Rece iv Fash es the C ion D o Ame esign uncil of r Best ica (CFD ers of A I and nternati ) Award onal is ho for n D CBE for h oured w esigner i fash ion i is service th a ndus try. s to the

Moves to Gieves & Hawkes , also on Savile R ow.

TIMELINE

Moves to Milan to work as a pattern cutte r for Italian designer Romeo Gigli before retu rning to London to begin a master’s degree in Fashion Design from Central Sa int Martins.

Employed as a pattern cutter with the London based Japanese designer Koji Ta tsuno.

1989

1995 to Reference h ’s Scottis McQueen een u cQ M the ancestry t rs r the fi tartan fo features d n a e m ti pped and ri s e cloth sh. xpose fle e torn to

2007 McQ u store een has fl s in L a York ondo gship ,L n and L os Ange , New les, M a awar s Vegas and i ilan, ded GQ s Desig ner o Mensw ea f the Year. r

1990 1996

ner ead Desig Become H ute couture ha at French luxury enchy for house Giv . Was awarded MH brand LV the signer of British De British Fashion e Year by th Council.

2009

Plato ’s as M Atlanti s is l cQue au colle e ction n’s grea ded first test a n db e be li ver fash ecomes ve st ion s the h re inter net. amed o ow to n the

1999

sented n is repre McQuee ’s permanent &A in the V for the Gallery Fashion e first tim

2010

Dies , 2010 aged 40 o . Mc Que n 11 Fe unfin en b i is co shed, co ’s last, ll m Sara pleted b ection h Bu rton y . ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

A PERSONAL INTERVIEW

FOUR CHAPTER

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

MOTHER

AND

SON

INTERVIEW

Joyce McQueen: I would have liked to have invited the late Peter Ustinov for dinner, for his wit and conversation. Who would you like as a dinner guest and why? Alexander McQueen: What, if I could choose anyone? JM: Anyone in the world. AM: Elizabeth I ... JM: Why would you want Elizabeth I? The history maybe?

AM: Any time? Future as well? JM: Future as well. But particularly the past. AM: Let’s stick to the past then. I’m thinking cavemen and loincloths. JM: What about Tudors and Stuarts?

AM: 'Cause she's an anarchist.

AM: Er ... I’m answering the questions! Most probably ...

JM: She's an anarchist?

JM: What about -

AM: She was an anarchist, yeah. Do you want to have a bit of debate on this?

AM: I’m thinking ! Fifteenth-century Flemish, Netherlands. My favourite part of art. Because of the colours, because of the sympathetic way they approached life.

JM: Well, not at the moment, no. AM: Because, y'know, she kind of founded the Church of England under her father, with all the upheaval from the French and the Scottish ...

JM: Simplicity, you mean.

JM: Who are your other ones?

JM: No, I’m trying to get to the bottom of why you like that.

AM: Jesus of Nazareth, to check if he really exists, and it's not just we've been reading some Peter Pan book for the past 2,000 years. Or Mel Gibson, to be there if Jesus wasn't true.

JM: If you could live and work as a designer in any era, which one would it be?

CHAPTER FOUR: A PERSONAL INTERVIEW

AM: I’m not going to get into a big art debate with you.

AM: ‘Cause I think they were very modern for their times, in that period and in that part of the world.

CHAPTER FOUR: A PERSONAL INTERVIEW

JM: You spend as much time as possible in your beautiful cottage in the country. Do you find that the inspiration you get down there features in your work? AM: I don’t find inspiration there - it gives me a peace of mind, Mum. Solitude, and a blank canvas to work from, instead of the distractions of the concrete jungle. JM: Right. So it does inspire you in some ways then. AM: Not technically. Not country life or bobbing rabbits. It’s the peace and quiet. JM: As you know, I’m a Simply Red and Elton John fan. Who are your favourite artists? AM: As in singers? JM: Yeah, well, y’know, groups, whatever. Because at one time, you were very much into classical music. AM: Beyoncé. No, I’m only joking. JM: He was about, what, 15. I know because I’ve still got them at home. AM: I think composers. People like Michael Nyman, who compose an original piece of music - believe it or not, the artists today are inspired by people like Michael Nyman and Philip Glass, who come up with unusual sounds.

JM: I know, I know, that’s where pop music comes from ... AM: Nah, it’s like the architect who designed the Gherkin [Norman Foster and his Swiss Re tower in London] inspires people, or Alexander McQueen does a collection that inspires other people to do different things and move things forward. Rap music’s been around for too long now to be inspirational. The words are, but the music isn’t. JM: You haven’t given me an answer there. You haven’t come out with a group. AM: I have - Philip Glass and Michael Nyman.

JM: All right, then. I’ll ask another question. You have travelled extensively around the world but still have not been to the Isle of Skye, which is the root of your McQueen history. Will you ever visit that area? AM: Mmm ... yes. JM: In the near future? AM: Yes.

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ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

JM: Right. And that follows on to my next question: what do your Scottish roots mean to you? AM: Everything. JM: Well, where do I come in? AM: [laughs] Oh you’re from the Forest of Dean, yeah. What do you mean, where do you come in? JM: Well, your Scottish roots mean a lot to you. So where does your mother’s side come in? AM: What does my mother’s side, the Welsh side, mean to me? JM: I’m not Welsh! I’m Norman! AM: All right, Norman! Where does this Norman come from? JM: Well they come from Viking stock. AM: That answers a lot for an awful lot of people, I think. I feel more Scottish than Norman.

JM: You recently got your deep-sea diving certificate, didn’t you? AM: Yeah, underwater diving.

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JM: The calm part. You are often described as an architect of clothing, and I know that you have a keen interest in architecture. What is the most breathtaking building you’ve ever seen? AM: Ronchamps, by Corbusier. JM: What do you think of the modern buildings in London? AM: I love the Gherkin. JM: You do? AM: I think it’s fantastic. JM: But you don’t like any of the old architecture in London? AM: Well, yeah, but it’s not as nice as it is in Italy or Paris. JM: If you hadn’t trained on Savile Row, how would you have entered the fashion industry? AM: I’d have slept my way there. JM: Or, I don’t know ... AM: Other ways. I’d have found other ways of getting into it.

C H A P T E R F O U R : A P E R S O N A L I N T E R V I E W 71

JM: Do you look at something else and say, “I could have done that as well”? AM: Photo-journalism. It’s art for the modern times. I think it captures a moment in time that is spontaneous and that reflects where we are. The one I couldn’t have done is be an architect, because I don’t have the brain capacity or the patience. JM: No, you haven’t got the patience, have you? You mix with VIPs, celebrities, aristocracy ... How does coming home and being the baby of the family make you feel? AM: I’m never fazed by it, because whenever I get home, Dad will always ask me to make him a cup of tea. So it’s just normal. JM: If you were prime minister or in government, what policies would you implement to make the UK a better place to live? AM: More politically correct police officers on the streets. And more focus on the north of England instead of just the south, on not so developed parts of the country. JM: What do you mean, “politically correct police”? AM: Well, not homophobic police, not racist police, you know? The police need to come down to street level.

JM: Success has brought you financial security. But if you lost it all tomorrow, what would be the first thing you would do? AM: Sleep. I’d be pleased. JM: I said you’d go on holiday. AM: What with? I’d lost it all! JM: When you received your CBE last October, you told me and Dad that you locked eyes with the Queen and it was like falling in love. What was it about her presence that captivated you? AM: I made a pact with myself that I wasn’t going to look into her eyes. JM: But you did. AM: I did. There was a simultaneous lock, and she started laughing, and I started laughing ... JM: It was a nice moment, wasn’t it? AM: It was. We caught it on camera where we’re both laughing at each other. She asked a question, “How long have you been a fashion designer?” and I said, “A few years, m’lady.” I wasn’t thinking straight because I’d hardly had any sleep.

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JM: You were nervous. AM: I was really tired. And I looked into her eyes, it was like when you see someone across the room on a dancefloor and you think, “Whoa!” It was like when I looked into her eyes, it was obvious that she had her fair share of shit going on. I felt sorry for her. I’ve said a lot of stuff about the Queen in the past - she sits on her arse and she gets paid an awful lot of money for it - but for that instant I had a bit of compassion for her. So I came away feeling humbled by the situation, when I wouldn’t have even been in the situation if it wasn’t for you. JM: I thought it was a great honour. AM: I didn’t want to do it. JM: It was an honour for you ... AM: Yeah, but I had my views on what it stands for. JM: What is your most terrifying fear? AM: Dying before you. JM: Thank you, son. What makes you proud?

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AM: You. JM: Why? AM: No, no, ask the next one: “What makes you furious?” You! [laughs] JM: No, go on, what makes you proud? AM: When things go right, when the collection goes right, when everyone else in the company’s proud. JM: What makes you furious? AM: Bigotry. JM: What makes your heart miss a beat? AM: Love. JM: Love for children? Love for adults? Love for animals? AM: Falling in love.

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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN & HIS MOTHER JOYCE

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

“Alexander McQueen.” Biography.com, A&E Networks Television, 18 Apr. 2019, www.biography.com/people/alexander-mcqueen-541384. Bowen, Peter. “An Alexander McQueen Timeline.” Bleecker Street, bleeckerstreetmedia.com/editorial/alexander-mcqueen-timeline. Bolton, Andrew. Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty. Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2011. Ettedgui, Eter and Ian Bonhôte, directors. McQueen. Amazon, Bleecker Street, 2018, www.amazon.com/McQueen-Lee-Alexander/dp/B07HFM5JBB/ref= pd_ ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=A25AF0FGNFKJ2M1Z JQ9T. Milligan, Lauren. “Alexander McQueen.” Vogue, British Vogue, 23 Aug. 2017, www.vogue.co.uk/article/alexander-mcqueen-biography. Taylor-Wood, Samam. “Alexander McQueen Interviewed... by His Mum.” The Guardian, Guardian News and Media, 20 Apr. 2004, www.theguardian.com/culture/2004/apr/20/guesteditors.

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BIBLIOGRAPHY BIBLIOGRAPHY

C H A P T E R F O U R : A P E R S O N A L I N T E R V I E W 71

BIBLIOGRAPHY BIBLIOGRAPHY

INDEX

ALEXANDER MC QUEEN:FASHION VISIONARY

INDEX

Alexander McQueen 14, 16, 19, 29, 53, 59 Assistant Designer 29

England 47, 74

B beauty 41 Blow, Isabella 19, 48 British Designer of the Year 29, 68 British Fashion Week 16 brother 21, 57 bumster 19 Burton, Sarah 59, 68

C catwalk 35 CIRCA 21, 23, 35, 36, 38, 41, 56 clothes 14, 15, 19, 59, 68 clothing 15, 19, 21 collection 16, 19, 21, 24, 29, 31, 37, 41, 55, 59, 67, 68 company 15, 29, 31, 41, 53 concept 15, 16, 37, 41, 55 couture 31, 35, 37, 68 creating 21, 37, 59 creative director 16, 29, 41

D death 19, 41, 48, 51, 59 Debra Shaw 31 design 15, 19, 37, 55, 57 designer 15, 16, 31, 37, 67, 68 drugs 37, 39 Dying 75

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F family 14, 21, 47, 57, 74 fashion 1, 16, 19, 21, 29, 31, 37, 42, 47 53, 55, 67, 68 fashion designer 74 Ford, Tom 41 France 29, 31

G Galliano, John 29 garments 21 Gieves and Hawkes 14 Gigli, Romeo 16, 67, 68 Givenchy 29, 31, 35, 37, 39, 47, 67, 68 Gucci 41, 67

H Highland Rape 21 HIV + 51

I Ibiza 51 industry 19, 53, 55, 67 inspiration 15, 21, 31 Isabella 19, 31, 48 ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S A JUNGLE OUT THERE 35, 36

I N D E X 77

J JACK THE RIPPER 23 Janet 15, 47, 51, 53, 57, 59 Joyce 14, 57

K Koji Tatsuno 15, 68

L La Dame Bleue 48 Lee 14, 15, 19, 21, 29, 31, 37, 39, 41, 48, 51, 53, 55, 57, 59 Lee Alexander McQueen 14, 59 London 14, 16, 19, 35, 37, 67, 68

M McQueen 1, 14, 16, 19, 21, 29, 31, 35, 37, 39, 41, 51, 53, 55, 59, 67, 68 model 31, 37, 41 models 41, 55 mother 14, 21, 57, 59

S Savage Beauty 59 Savile Row 14, 67, 73 Scotland 21 Scottish 68, 71, 73 Sebastian 29, 51, 53, 55 show 16, 19, 21, 29, 31, 35, 37, 41, 48, 51, 53, 55, 68 sister 15, 21, 47, 48, 51, 53, 57, 59 St. Martinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s School of Art 16

T trauma 21

V Voss 41, 55

W Westwood, Vivianne 21 woman 21 women 19, 21, 59

N NO. 13 37

P Paris 29, 37, 73 pieces 21, 31 Pons, Sebastian 29

R relationship 29, 39 robots 37, 55 Rokeby School for Boys 14 runway 21, 31

I N D E X 77

CHEERIO Alexander McQueen: Fashion Visionary . is set in Avenir Book, Avenir Black, and Adobe Calson. This book was adapted from various print and digital sources. Content editor: Shavonne Lenard Authors: Andrew Bolton, Ian BonhĂ´te, Peter Ettedgui Air: NPR, US Patent and Trademark Office Book design and illustrations: Shavonne Lenard Copy editor: Lenard Printer: Blurb