Issue 1
SSS HHH EEE AAA KKK EEE RRR EEE AAA KKK EEE RRR HHH EEE AAA KKK EEE RRR
of The Women’s go-to Sneaker Magazine
Master File .indd 1
1
24/04/2018 18:56
C 2
Master File .indd 2
24/04/2018 18:56
Industry
Contents. Lifestyle
Sneaker Style
Reijnald Kolthof on thinking with, and ahead of the times, Instagram who to follow: @DanielleCathari / @ConceptKicks Chaotic Lines by Elisah Vrieze Sneaker Sanctuaries for Women The New Way to Cop
The Skating Sisterhood A History of Women’s Sneaker’s with Elizabeth Semmelhack The Season’s Most Desired Sneakers
Nike on Air: Inspiring a city through Hardship Boiler Room Launches Local Heroes Night
“Serving Up Some Hot Punch” Styling the Air Max 270
2018 Summer of Sole 3
Master File .indd 3
24/04/2018 18:56
E
4
Master File .indd 4
24/04/2018 18:56
E ditor’s Letter. B
eing the only girl in a predominantly male sneaker shop can be quite daunting. As can, being the only girl at a sneaker-related event. Even, the aggravating feeling when you’re the only girl sneaker shopping with a group of sneaker-head guys and, comparatively, having a miniscule number of sneakers to look through. Repetitive and highly testing. This is the feeling of being a woman in the sneaker industry. Sheaker Magazine was born out of frustrations women encounter when they simply want to look for a good pair of sneakers. The power of a good pair of sneakers is quite extraordinary. We pick sneakers which represent our identities- they say a lot about us, what we like and choose to wear. When copping a new pair of sneakers, I always found the most rewarding part of the buy would be the unexpected compliments given by passers-by on the street. The acknowledgment of knowing I had a pair of sneakers which was adored by others is a great feeling- in a sense it gives you a kick of confidence. Though some sneaker powerhouses are beginning to be more accommodating to women, the sneaker culture is still annoyingly gendered towards men and secondarily to women. We explore this further with Elizabeth Semmelhack in A History of Women’s Sneakers. Over the past few years, we have seen a sprout in retailers, designers and advocates of the female sneaker industry pushing a whole new gender-free sneaker culture. Reijnald Kolthof talks about the importance in thinking ahead as a genderless sneaker designer, in an exclusive interview with Sheaker Magazine. Along with Kolthof, we visited the work of female sneaker designers featured on design inspiration website, ConceptKicks and their new contributor, Suzanne Hengel. Experimental processes and innovative designs show how these designers will keep transforming the sneaker industry to aid and supplement the shoe needs of everyday life. We also take a closer look into the sneaker retail experience for women; the emergence of retailers in Europe, focussed on supplying a ‘sneaker sanctuary’ experience for women. Looking at the new, fascinating ways sneaker powerhouses are using technology to drop sneakers, we discover how this could transform the market forever. Foremost, Sheaker Magazine worships the many forms that sneakers come in today. We want to represent this in the abundance of visual content we have lined up in the magazine, including a ‘Chaotic Lines’ Jackson Pollock inspired sneaker shoot. Also featuring a heap of super-hot sneaker-style inspiration you can take with you to the dancefloors of Boiler Room or the many sneaker events outlined in our events calendar found at the back of magazine. The women’s sneaker industry is at the brink of a revolution. We want to celebrate, expose and explore the greatness of the women’s sneaker culture. Reporting on and investigating into the exciting evolution of the industry with all sneakerheads a-like. In Issue 1, journey with us through the fast-growing market and meet all the amazing sneaker pioneers endeavouring to make sneaker culture as accessible to women as it is to men. Angelee Kholia Contributors: Graphic Illustrations Krishma Chopra Chaotic Lines Shoot Elisah Vrieze Special thanks to Robert De Neit & Paul Tierney
5
Master File .indd 5
24/04/2018 18:56
1930- 1949.
The start of the 19th century saw rise of rubber cultivation, leading to a drop in rubber prices and, sneaker craftsman using it as the material of choice for sneaker soles. Before this, in the 19th century, men’s and women’s sneakers used a majority leather body and sole. The term ‘sneaker’ was used loosely and didn’t compare to the comfort of sneakers today. “When Keds debuted in 1916, their market included women, however, over the decades, athleticism and notions of idealized femininity have had a complicated relationship—a fact reflected on the limited number of sneakers designed for women or the availability of highly sought-after sneakers in women’s sizes.”
By the 1930’s, more classes were encouraged to partake in sports and Physical Education was added to the school curriculum. Therefore, the demand for sneakers increased- for both men, women and a variety of ages. “Eugenics and rising nationalism made physical perfection a political issue and I have argued, it was during this fascist moment that the sneaker became democratized in many parts of the world. After WWII, sneakers were so inexpensive that they became the footwear of childhood and lost all association with status.” Rubber sole oxfords were introduced and rapidly picked up popularity. Women’s football teams in the UK were also increasing which meant the healed sneakers were forever abandoned due to inconvenience.
“Tennis became popular in the middle of the 19th century and both privileged men and women played the sport. It has remained a sport open to women.” Tennis was the first main influence on sneaker culture for women. The Adidas Stan Smith and first Lacoste Shoe was developed to be specialized for men’s and women’s tennis playing. By the end of the 1960’s, sneakers became a “central part of youth fashion”, which would transcend into subcultural dress in the 70’s.
Master File .indd 6
The rise in skate culture for women occurring in the new millennium meant that chunky and platform sneakers were no longer fashion. Instead, Vans and Converse became popular with skaters and non-skaters as a quirky sneaker trend.
present
The 1980’s were all about spandex, neon colours and gym-wear, with the sneaker playing a key role in this sporty trend. The Reebok Freestyles became a popular sneaker of choice by women- a high top sneaker which they could tuck their bright leg warms and sparkly tights into. The Adidas Superstar saw an iconic shift from sports to an emblem of the hip-hop group, Run DMC. In New York, followers of hip-hop culture and b-girls, accessorizing with brightly coloured laces, wore the Superstar as a sign of identity.
In the past ten years, big sneaker brands such as Nike and Adidas have seen rapid progression in sneaker technology, producing the highest performance sneakers. The Nike Vapormax and Adidas Ultra Boost’s are both models of innovative technology which, were released in women’s sizes. Though this increasing availability would seem that sneaker culture is open to women today, Elizabeth explains that sneakers will always be orientated to men. “Sneakers are intimately connected to notions of masculinity and these notions risk destabilization through association with femininity.”
It could be said that by the 1990’s women were taking the sneaker into their own, wearing a selection of models as a fashionable, every-day look. Popstars, actresses and models wore sneakers as a fashionable “off-duty” look. Kate Moss and Chrissy Turlington wore classic styles such as the Adidas Gazelle and the Nike Air Max models being introduced at the time. The Spice Girls also popularized the platform sneaker in the 1990’s. A shoe to reflect their fun and lively personalities, which became a wanted item by many young female fans alike.
1990’s
1950-1969
1980’s
2000’s
2010’s-
1970’s
1900- 1929.
In the 1970’s, sneakers were becoming a significantly trendy part of leisurewear for women including running sneakers by brands such as Converse, Adidas and Nike. “The sneaker remerged in the 1970s as a means of expressing status when some began to offer sneakers at very high prices. This trend has only continued.” “For the majority of Western women, the sneakers that they wore to be fashionable were running shoes or all around training shoes, think Adidas Gazelle and Nike Senorita Cortez.” Footwear became a great signifier for subcultures in the 1970’s. Many youth subcultures adopted originally traditional sneakers associated with higher classes and, transformed them to hold a rebellious iconography. “Beatniks, both men and women, wore low top canvas “skippies” and from the late 1970s on, both men and women in punk, and more recently of hipster culture have used the canvas high top as a signifier of anti or alternative fashion.”
6
24/04/2018 18:56
A History of
with
Women’s Sneaker’s Elizabeth Semmelhack 7
Master File .indd 7
24/04/2018 18:56
D
S 8
Master File .indd 8
24/04/2018 18:56
This
Season’s
Most
Desired
Sneaker’s 9
Master File .indd 9
24/04/2018 18:56
Winner of the Nike Vote Forward competition, designer and
notorious
collector,
his Air Max 1/97 creation.
Dropped on the 24th March, the sneaker could be regarded as the most prized sneaker of the year so far with fans lining up 3 days in advance for the sneaker.
The design morphs the sole of the Air Max 1 and upper body of the ’97. Inspired love the
by for
DESIGNER
Sean Wotherspoon released
Wotherspoon’s 80’s
sneaker
is
vintage, made
up
of corduroy in a number of
flavourful
colours.
Air Max 1/97 SW. 10
Master File .indd 10
24/04/2018 18:56
Nike 1 re-imagined collection hit stores earlier
in
January
this
year. 14 redesigned models of the Air Force 1
DEPTHS
and Air Jordan 1, showed 14 different design perspectives of female-only designers at Nike.
Names such as the REBEL and the Explorer gave the sneakers a personalised touch, encouraging buyers to express their their
traits
through
sneakers.
The
collection is still receiving buzz from bloggers and is said to be a staple this summer.
Nike 1 Reimagined Collection. 11
Master File .indd 11
24/04/2018 18:56
The Reebok Club C 85 model holds a similar iconography to that of Stan
Smith.
The
Reebok Club C 85.
original white leather colour way was introduced
on
tennis
courts but, was later adopted as part of the aerobic 80’s trend along with leg warmers
and
This
body
march
suits.
Reebok
teamed up with Montana Cans,
releasing
the
Club C 85 in a number of deep hue colourways.
RETURN OF
the
This understated classic will act as a great addition to any sporty or even smart outfit. Master File .indd 12
12
24/04/2018 18:56
The season of spring sprung
THE CLASSICS
Converse 1 star Golf le Fleur.
much earlier in the sneaker world when artist, Tyler the Creator
collab-
orated with Converse for the second Converse 1 Golf le Fleur. The sneaker came in fresh floral tones of Geranium Pink, Jade Lime and Bachelor Blue; encapsulating the uplifting and bright nature of his fourth studio album, Flower Boy.
The release has since saw a surge in the Converse One Star trend, with Converse opening the pop-up One
Star
Hotel
in
Lon-
don. Hosting a weekend of events 13
Master File .indd 13
and
workshops
to
fuel the 1 Star obsession.
24/04/2018 18:56
-AD-
14
Master File .indd 14
24/04/2018 18:56
Model - Kirshma Chopra, Photography- Angelee Kholia
“Serving up some
Hot Punch”
Styling the
Air Max 270s
Earlier this March, Nike brought to us the mighty Air Max 270. With striking colourways, a sleek silhouette and, at 32mm, the tallest ever air capacity unit- the sneaker has gained widespread popularity since its release. Made for every aspect of the day, the Air Max 270 is the epitome of the term ‘athleisurewear’. Sheaker Mag channels this as we style the Light Bone/ Hot Punch Air Max 270 with a fusion of smart and sporty styles to strive in this summer.
15
Master File .indd 15
24/04/2018 18:56
16
Master File .indd 16
24/04/2018 18:56
17
Master File .indd 17
24/04/2018 18:56
18
Master File .indd 18
24/04/2018 18:56
-Shoot-
19
Master File .indd 19
24/04/2018 18:56
20
Master File .indd 20
24/04/2018 18:56
21
Master File .indd 21
24/04/2018 18:56
22
Master File .indd 22
24/04/2018 18:56
23
Master File .indd 23
24/04/2018 18:56
24
Master File .indd 24
24/04/2018 18:56
R e i j n a l d K o l t h o f o n t h i n k i n g w i t h , a n d a h e a d o f t h e t i m e s . 25
Master File .indd 25
24/04/2018 18:56
R
ecently graduated footwear designer, Reijnald Kolthof excels at creating forward-thinking designs and futuristic silhouettes for a gender-free sneaker market. It’s clear to see that Kolthof has creatively and professionally flourished as an individual, securing placements with Camper and Converse. We sat down with the designer to find out more about his sneaker designing journey. From the Netherlands, Reijnald Kolthof attended Institute of Arts in Arnhem but footwear design wasn’t his instinctive career path. Perhaps acting as a basis for his complex ideas, he chose to study product design in his earlier years. He went on to specialise in wearable design and then, footwear at the Dutch Shoe Academy in Utrecht. Now, Kolthof travels far and wide to fulfil his capacities as a designer; spending this summer in Mallorca designing for Camper. Youthful memories engulf Reijnald Kolthof as we start talking about the sneaker industry. Growing up with a twin sister, Kolthof, reminisces on a time when almost all his belongings were shared with his sister. “From our toys to clothes. Totally no gender based restrictions”, he explains. Though sharing isn’t preferred by most children, Kolthof thinks fondly of this time, but spoke of how he quickly came to the realisation that this gender-free lifestyle wasn’t the norm for everyone. The topic of personal identity is explored widely by Kolthof and, is something he is passionate about conveying in his work. “We live in a time with so many external influences that people need to be aware of their personal choices more than ever. As part of this new generation I feel like it’s outdated to strictly divide
products into just male or female.” For this reason, Kolthof’s sneakers are created for both men and women, instead of pinning a shoe to just one gender. This notion is truly encompassing of the progressive times that we live in, and reflective of the modernity in his work. Within the ever-evolving sneaker culture where “subgroups are blurring and etiquettes are crossing”, designers are pushed to constantly reinvent styles, a feeling Kolthof is thrives off. “You could wear sneakers underneath a suit”, he says. “For traditional brands this makes it harder to predict their target groups. But it’s nice to shake things up a little. Keeps everyone sharp.” But Kolthof explains that it’s not just societal groups which effect the tendencies of designers. “There’s a lot happening within the field of material, shape and construction. This definitely transforms the way a footwear designer works.” These elements force designers to take a physical approach to sneaker designing. Experimenting and testing the newest fabrics and shapes, rather than only thinking as far as a drawing on paper. Year after year, evolution in design process can even be seen by the biggest sneaker corporations - Nike’s air technology or Adidas’ manipulation of fabric in their eco-initiative with Parley. Kolthof has gained a varied skillset when it comes to designing and crafting footwear. During his time at the academy, he learnt traditional methods to craft shoes as well as the designing with the help of more advanced technology. “Although it isn’t my call to be a traditional shoemaker, I’m really glad to have this knowledge. For me this became the base to re-think footwear.”, he tells Sheaker. Linking back to the concept of identity, Kolthof explains that the construction of a shoe
26
Master File .indd 26
24/04/2018 18:56
THE
DESIGNER’S
is “…inspired by certain identities”. “I see identity as a construction and construction as an identity. I like the idea that nothing’s fixed, but everything keeps evolving. And that everybody is able to shape their future selves.” This became Kolthof’s inspiration and basis for his final graduate project. The footwear designer named his final collection ‘Degreys’; a reimagination and design concept of the Western Warrior and Eastern Ninja, ‘fictional heroic figures’ created by the media. The collection definitively encapsulates the characteristics of these figures, and all images can be found on his portfolio. His enthusiasm and passion for the footwear industry led Kolthof to fulfil placements at companies such as G-Star Raw, Camper and Converse. “I find it super cool to think about how I would like to see future shoes from these brands. I learned a lot from working with experienced designers, developers and technicians.” It’s clear to see that Kolthof values his time at these placements and, have been particularly insightful of every corner of the production process. Now, taking his teachings from the academy and expertise from industry placements, Kolthof is injecting his forward-thinking approach to real life work and is already taking the footwear industry by storm. With big hopes for the future, Reijnald Kolthof is set to be a true trailblazer in the sneaker industry.
VIEW
“I see identity as
a
construction and construction as an identity.
”
27
Master File .indd 27
24/04/2018 18:56
Instagram who to follow.
If you didn’t know about her before, then you do now. Fashion designer and stylist, Danielle Cathari is best known for her on-going clothing collaboration with Adidas Originals. Her first collection, showing a complete luxe-style mix up of the Adidas tracksuit, was debuted earlier this year, receiving interest from many big names in fashion. Cathari is still based in Amsterdam, where she studied at AMFI University and first showed her interest in deconstructing streetwear items like tracksuits. Her creations found Cathari on the VFiles Runway where she showed her de-con, re-con final degree collection. The ultra-sporty chic collection, named ‘Something for your mind’, focussed on the balance of rational and emotional, with the two contrasting elements, tailored and casual, representing the pair. The collection definitely did give everyone something to think about, as her work was later spotted by Adidas. Her first collection with Adidas Originals was launched with a bang, back in February. The collab showed Cathari’s signature patched and tailored aesthetic, with Adidas’ iconic three stripes running through the garments. From her previous works, the collection has progressed to use more fabrics, garment styles and structures and also opts for a sportier vibe. Adidas Brand Ambassador, Kendall Jenner, became a big fan of Cathari’s and now works closely with her, modelling the A/W collection in promotional content. Cathari regularly posts the newest from her work, textile creations and behind the scenes images from shoots, on her Instagram page. Most recently @daniellecathari featured the likes of MIA and Dua Lipa in Cathari’s tracksuit masterpieces. Occasionally she also posts of her quirky sneaker stylewhat’s not to love? The start of Cathari’s bright career has just begun, and we can’t to see what else is to come.
@Danielle Cathari 28
Master File .indd 28
24/04/2018 18:56
Launched in 2013, ConceptKicks is an online emporium showcasing the latest from sneaker innovation. David Bailey, founder of ConceptKicks and well-known sneaker designer, started the website as a collective of inspirational sneaker content. Later, ConceptKicks became a curation of outstanding design talent, featuring a mix of upcoming and well-established sneaker designers, while inspiring those who aspire to a future of footwear design.
29
Master File .indd 29
@ConceptKicks.
ConceptKicks now has a booming Instagram account with a following of almost 70 000. Posting inspirational and futuristic design concepts which can be found on their website. The platform has shown the growing possibilities of design with the help of technological advances that exist in the industry today. From sketch to shoe, the website shows how designer’s journey through their design process to the production of their sneaker. Finnish designer, Polinka Krichko, aims to bring knitwear to the sneaker. Her work recently displayed on the website (see below), shows how female designers are breaking into the industry to appeal to a male and female market with innovative textile patterns and shapes. News stories from big sneaker corporations such as Nike and Adidas are also available to read on the website. Recently covering the Nike 1 ‘Reimagined’ collection, the website gives an insight into how the 14 all-female design team created their impressive collection in less than 2 weeks. You can also find an exclusive interview with the designer of the new Air Max model, Nike Air Max 270, on the website. The variety of designers in the industry today is vast but still continuously hungry for more talent. It is important to Bailey to actively inspire new generations of designers. #Concept Surgeon: A contest created in collaboration with the Hender Scheme, Acronym and Shoe Surgeon, took place earlier this year with this exact purpose. Shoe designers across the globe sent in their designs using the EQT boost sole, who were then shortlisted and given further challenges. As well as their envisaged design coming to life, the winner received recognition from big sneaker corporations and has gone on to design a handful of different Concept Kicks. Suzanne Hengel, a knit-sneaker designer, spoke to Sheaker about her recent appointment as contributor to the online magazine. Incredibly admirable of David Bailey’s generosity, she talked of how becoming part of ConceptKicks has acted as “a great platform to boost her work”, having received job offers, interest in collaborations and opportunities to meet new people. Suzanne went on to explain her profession, describing herself as a “Hybrid”- placing herself between the footwear and knitting industry. “Knitwear is a pretty new thing in the footwear industry” she says, “…with such a specific profile as I have, I place myself in a niche within the industry. I feel it is not about being in competition but more collaborating and sharing my knowledge.” Suzanne explains that its these collaborations and “having a good network” that make her able to fulfil her projects. It is evident that initiative’s like ConceptKicks are increasingly needed to support designers, not only in the sneaker industry but in all creative fields. ConceptKicks acts as a credible platform to promote and share design work, but has also become a hotspot to scout new design talent and further career opportunities. Their platform is becoming particularly beneficial by keeping the sneaker industry fruitful with new designers, new perspectives and new ideas.
24/04/2018 18:56
30
Master File .indd 30
24/04/2018 18:56
Photography & Visuals
- Elisah Vrieze
Chaotic Lines. Drawing inspiration from the expressionist painter Jackson Pollock, Elisah Vrieze reimagines the sneaker silhouette in an art form for the first issue of Sheaker Mag. Pollock’s artistic concept of creating action in still life was the focal point of this photoshoot. By cleverly bouncing the sneakers in an assortment of tights, Vrieze effectively captures this action. She shows how a product of movement can be translated into a 2-D image. The chaotic lines and vivid colours which are also prominent in the shoot, spark a certain intrigue and fascination, similar to that of Pollock.
31
Master File .indd 31
24/04/2018 18:57
32
Master File .indd 32
24/04/2018 18:57
33
Master File .indd 33
24/04/2018 18:57
34
Master File .indd 34
24/04/2018 18:57
35
Master File .indd 35
24/04/2018 18:57
36
Master File .indd 36
24/04/2018 18:57
37
Master File .indd 37
24/04/2018 18:57
Sneaker Sanctuaries In “A History of Women’s Sneakers”, it’s evident to see that the sneaker industry has always been a male-focussed industry, despite the booming interest from women. In fact, Mintel reported that sneaker sales increases year after year and astonishingly, “37% of UK women bought trainers, compared to 33% who bought shoes with a heel.” [2016] So, where do women go to sneaker shop? The likes of Naked Copenhagen and Maha, situated in Amsterdam, have become renowned sneaker hotspots where you can find the most devoted of sneakerheads, bloggers and even celebrities. Operating online with their webstores and instore, their sneakers are easily accessible to women everywhere. However, for a day’s retail therapy, shopping sneakers to the max, Amsterdam and Copenhagen stray quite far. Closer to home, most sneaker retailers principally stock men’s sneakers, and have smaller sections dedicated to women’s sneakers. A singular destination which women can escape to for a full range of styles and sizes is hard to find in the UK. We looked into the best “sneaker sanctuaries” for women in the country so you can treat yourself to an abundance of creps.
for Women. 38
Master File .indd 38
24/04/2018 18:57
Pam Pam London [BethnalGreen] The quirky, Pam Pam London, is located in culturally bustling, Hackey. Inside, the sneaker store holds a beautiful Scandinavian aesthetic, with sneakers arranged meticulously next to white-painted brick walls and drooping leafy plants. Pam Pam stock the newest sneaker drops and handpicked sportwear from Adidas and Nike, with extended ranges available via their website. Shoppers can also browse through quirky home and lifestyle products such as incense sticks and skateboards, making perfect gifts. For a full aesthetically tantalising and indulgent sneaker shopping trip, visit Pam Pam London.
KicksLove [Deptford] Tucked away next to the Deptford Railway station in South east London, KicksLove is like a hidden treasure chest of sneakers for women. The KicksLove company was born 2 years ago, after owner Lisa Barlow left the women’s team at Nike Headquarters to the London’s first women’s sneaker store. The store has an underground, hipster feel with a selection of clothing from streetwear brands- perfect to match the creps with the garms. Online and in-store, KicksLove offers a range of sneaker brands including Adidas, Saucony and Fila. The shop specializes in limited edition footwear from both big and smaller sneaker brands, so if you’re looking for something special, this is the place to go.
Sneakhers [Coming soon / Manchester] Opening its doors this year, Manchester’s thriving sneaker culture welcomes Sneakhers. The women’s sneaker store is predicted to be overflowing with sneakerhead’s from all around the North. Like Pam Pam London and KicksLove, the Sneakhers store will be introduced as a sneaker shopping experience for women, with a unique flair of style. On their Instagram page, the brand has already shown their strengths at styling a good pair of sneakers, in sneak peeks of their bad-ass summer editorials. We are expecting to see big things from Sneakhers soon. To keep up to date with news on Sneakhers, follow them on Instagram @sneakhers or sign up to their newsletter on the website.
39
Master File .indd 39
24/04/2018 18:57
40
Master File .indd 40
24/04/2018 18:57
T
hroughout recent years there has been a spike in the amount of people interested in limited and rare items of clothing, especially trainers. As technology advances and the market growing, pressure is applied to the companies to improve the way their products are purchased. This can be due to locations and ease of access for customers, as well as the threatening uses that have come about from the introduction of new technologies. Additionally, hype items are heavily subjected to a resellers market, whereby hype pieces are sold out on a global scale by cunning entrepreneurs who are after a quick profit. Making the hype items even harder to get hold of means that the resellers market is able to charge an even higher price for the items. Often making more profit than the actual manufacturer of the shoe. With the majority of hype items and trainers, it is usually left to first come first serve basis and, queues are usually formed. However, it was evident that this way of ensuring purchase of certain products was not a viable method with the ever-increasing size of the market. Both in store and online methods of purchase were affected by this. Online seemed to be easier to amend in terms of purchasing hype items. After many years of initial drops at set times, it has become apparent that the increase in the use of bots is having a major effect on the market of hyped items. As soon as it approaches drop time, the bots instantly add items to cart in the desired size and successfully complete all billing and payment transactions- all within seconds of the drop time. It eventually results in a complete sell out by bots causing a secondary market for resellers. Unfortunately, not all retailers are attempting to change their methods of purchase, consequently causing the reseller market to blossom. On the other hand, selected retailers have begun introducing a raffling system for the most sought after drops. This means that entrees are selected at random for their given size. Yeezys were the first trainer to have such a hype for. It initially sparked the idea of introducing the raffling system. After time, more
The new way to cop.
retailers decided this was a viable solution to the fairness in ability to purchase hype items. End, Wellgosh and Sneakers n Stuff are all examples of retailers that eventually decided to adopt the raffling system to hype items on the market. “If you can’t beat them, join them”. This familiar quote is the inspiration behind some of the leading market retailers’ new methods of purchase of hype items. Nike were one of the first to offer a sneaker purchasing app, Sneakrs. This revolutionary app adopted the essence of how bots operate but, incorporated in a fair method of practice direct from the manufacturer. The app required for a simple sign up with the addition of adding billing address and payment options. The app then had a list of all upcoming sneaker releases. All that is required is to select the desired item and size and the app sets a reminder to the phone for a drop time. When the drop time approaches and the notification appears. All is left to do is click buy at the drop time and the transaction should automatically complete using all the data inputted previously. Kings of streetwear, Supreme are known for having some of the longest queues for drops, as well as the original in store Yeezy launches. Some of these drops led to violent and aggressive behaviour in queues, shop and on the street at the locations of drops. This was clearly getting out of hand and in a woman’s perspective is rather frightening and off putting for future drops. The new method of in store purchases has brought about a much easier way of getting your hands on the hottest drops. Supreme introduced a pre-queueing system. This required interested customers into signing up to a mailing list online either 2 or 3 days before the drop at 11am. Out of all successful sign ups, a selected amount are randomly sent a text, with which entails a time and a slot number of which can be used at the designated supreme store. This initially sparked outrage within the hype culture as it meant that dedicated collectors and fans of the brand had no power in whether they were able to cop. Now, it offers a much more safer way to in store purchases and works on a random allocation to offer everyone with an equal chance of getting to purchase the pieces. In today’s world, it’s evident that branches of retailers and shops street are closing down and staying vacant. It could be argued that this is down to the increase in technology overpowering lives of people today, causing levels of e-commerce to increase drastically. This has resulted in Adidas deciding to close down stores globally. The convenience of not having to leave the house and travelling to a store, but instead purchasing from your own home has become the normality. But the rise in e-commerce has had a positive outcome on both the retailer and customer, as costs are reduced and the ease of access to products has increased. With this being said, it’s clear to see that newer technologies are having a serious effect on the nature of the market of sneakers and hype items.
41
Master File .indd 41
24/04/2018 18:57
The Skating
Sisterhood.
The social sport of skateboarding has been enjoyed by both men and women alike for many decades. Though still a minority on skate ramps, girls continue to practise the art of skateboarding despite the negative “tomboy” connotations that exist. But this year has brought a phenomenal change to the women’s skate culture, altering the way we see women’s skating forever. Originally seen as man’s sport with the high level of danger associated with skateboarding, women took to their skateboards as a sign of liberation and rebellion. Skating pioneers such as world-class Patti McGee and Peggy Oki, the only female member of the Zephyr skateboard, took the skating community by storm in the late 70’s and distorted unorthodox views towards women’s skateboarding. Towards the early 90’s magazine’s such as Thrasher and Cooler promoted more women’s skating, while Skate Jam’s offered competitions for women-only. The undeniable transition from un-ladylike to cool over the past 30 years has encouraged more women to partake in the skateboarding, but in 2018, it has become more than a hip trend. The introduction of Girl’s Skate Clinics by VANS, in commemoration of International Women’s Day, is just one of the many new skate initiatives set up to encourage women to partake in the sport. The Clinics are currently being set up in cities such as Brooklyn, St Petersburg, London and Sau Paulo, giving girls around the world the opportunity they may crave to learn and practise a new sport. The Girls Skate Clinic in Banglore run by Atita Verghese and Lizzie Armanto, goes the extra mile, offering underprivileged girls free classes and welcoming social space. Similarly, SkatePal; a non- profit skating organization based in Palestine aims to support young skaters. Like the VANS Girls Skate Clinic, the organization is aimed to offer a free space and service to children who may not have money or time to practise skating. With the only funding coming from fundraisers, these organizations struggle to survive. However, through the help of volunteers, SkatePal often set up talks and music nights to raise money, and more recently, releasing a magazine to promote the work they do in Palestine. Skaters are also able to display their support for the organization with limited edition SkatePal tee’s and skateboards stocked on their website. For those who just want to skate with other badass girls in their free-time, Girl’s skate communities are being set up by girls across towns around the world. Girls in Indonesia have taken to the longboard to express the cool flair of the sport. With images shown on @lgcindonesia, the Longboard Girls Crew encourage the inviting slogan ‘if you are a girl and ride, you are one of us’ on their Instagram page. Most famously, Skate Kitchen NYC- a skate group made up of young females from all walks of life, formed after a frustration that girls are often outcasted on skate ramps. Now, the skater girls, regularly meet and skate around NYC, continually inspiring girls to pursue their love of skating, through Instagram and a truly motivational “Girls belong in the (skate) kitchen” TED Talk. These ‘skating sisterhood’s’ don’t stray far from home. Norfolk’s very own Girl’s Skate, links women together, with some participants as young as six. As well as free classes, they offer the chance to take part in skate jam’s and social skate dates in association with Brash Skate and Create. For more info on girls skating, Instagram accounts such as @girlsshred, @vc_london and @yeahgirlskateboarding, celebrate the growing women’s skate culture. Get Born mag and Escape Route zine, showcase the women’s skating world regularly in issues throughout the year. Get involved today if you’re a girl on deck and join the skating sisterhood.
42
Master File .indd 42
24/04/2018 18:57
The transient week of workshops, oozed with creative juices and inspiring stories for aspiring young designers. Amongst them, London’s Nike pop-up attracted a slew of students hoping for design careers. It gave them the opportunity to be able to learn skills and show off their talents in the week, in association with a respected design team and sneaker powerhouse. As a known and hailed brand within youth culture for decades, Nike has consciously used their status along with association with faces such as Skepta, to encourage new designers and what’s more, a chance to see their Air Max design put into production! A considerably high achievement for a young designer.
Friesromcelebrating March through to April this year, Nike hosted a pop-up sethe Air Max, in cities such Paris, Shanghai and of course, London. The multi-room pop-up aimed to spark creativity within cities by offering attendees the chance to design their own Air Max styles using a swatch materials, colours and stencils.
Honouring the Air Max; the pop-up had an exhibition style element with a history through every Air Max silhouette since the 1. Inside, the area was accessorized with Nike inspired installations by Hotel Creative. Just behind NikeLab in Shoreditch, London, a pink neon light and trolley sculpture was put up to indicate the mini-mart- like Nike’s very own gift shop open to visitors. At the London: On Air week, Nike collaborated with a new brand from London’s creative industries to give away free limited edition screen-printed t-shirts. From girl power blog, LAPP, to radio broadcasters, Reprezent, Nike picked brands richly representative of the spirit of young London. To top it off, the week held guest list events both during the day, and night-time events. Included in this was a Gal-dem panel talk, Colour Theory by GUAP and a closing party by GRM Daily.
It is evident that London is experiencing an economically turbulent time. With Brexit looming, this has had a massive knock-on effect on those working, or wanting to work in the creative industries. Budding designers often find themselves having to pay fees for courses/ workshops, moreover, government funding for start-up designers are practically diminishing making it harder to fund extensional projects. Like Nike, Uniqlo regularly collaborate with Tate Lates to curate free events for hundreds of creative Londoners. The series of events has seen massive success with an April edition hosting music making short talks and a music programme featuring Tommy Gold. Tate Modern reported of the 100,000+ attendees, “75% of them [attendees] are aged 18 to 35.” These vibrant, inspiring events are becoming more a necessity, than an advantage, to the design industry, without them we could see creative pathways less explored by young artists.
The events were studded with a handful of footwear creatives who acted as “mentor’s” throughout the week and participated in events at White Rabbit Studio’s. All Nike mentors held respectable positions in design and had all worked with Nike in leading design projects. Mentor, Seetal Solanki, a material innovator, worked with Nike as a textile designer for the Air Jordan 29 for Chinese New Year in 2015 She has gone on to found the material research company, Ma-tter. Also lecturing at the workshop, Courtney Dailey- VP Creative Director for colour at Nike, shared her colour expertise and latest work in an exhibition curated by GUAP.
Look to our sneaker calendar at the back of the mag to see other design workshops you can get stuck into this summer!
[Nike: ON AIR] Using Creativity to Inspire a City Through Hardship. 43
Master File .indd 43
24/04/2018 18:57
Boiler Room
Started out in 2010, Boiler Room TV had a simple concept- a basic webcam live stream of DJ sets within London. The aim for Boiler Room was to broadcast and increase the exposure of the underground music scene. With the advancements in technology and support from the Boiler Room fanbase, the concept advanced
Launches
from webcam live streams to intimate underground music events. Over the years Boiler Room have grown bigger, collaborating with
Local Heroes Night. Master File .indd 44
companies such as Adidas and Google Pixel. Nevertheless, all events have remained free with a guest list structure where attendees are selected via an online RSVP. Eight years on and Boiler Room has stuck to its originality for providing a network for underground music fans, as well as being able to broadcast the events to fans across the globe. We experienced the spectacle of a Boiler Room night earlier this March, with the musical hosting’s of Skream and Dennis Ferrer 44
24/04/2018 18:57
It was a cold and brisk Monday afternoon when I had just received an email to confirm I had made the guest list for the Boiler Room: Local Heroes launch night. With only 5 hours till doors open, it became a “drop what you’re doing moment” and I began to plan how and when I would start to make my way to east London’s finest underground location; The Pickle Factory. Situated in the heart of east London, The Pickle Factory is a short walk from Bethnal Green Station and located within The Oval Space. I arrived promptly to the destination, only to be greeted by fellow party goers swigging cheap wine and struggling to roll cigarettes with freezing fingertips. It was clear to see that most of the attendees were students or young adults who were seeking an underground music experience with some of the best names in the house and techno scene. As it reached 7pm, doors opened and the party goers loitering outside the venue rushed their way inside to hide in the warmth of the venue, to enjoy the music that was soon to bring them much more joy than the weather. With most London based events now getting tighter with security, Boiler Room was no different. Though Boiler Room boasts exclusivity, they didn’t fall short on a strict pat down and no chewing gum policy. Once I had finally entered the venue, I was subjected to a rather psychedelic purple hue that bled through the lighting and wrapped the room with a warm feeling. Within thirty minutes, the venue started filling up nicely with attendees and it became much livelier. Cameras were all set up for the recording of the sets and it was broadcasted live on the Boiler Room website and Facebook page. Other than the students and young adults, there were a few famous faces such as BBC Radio 1’s DJ, Monki and Catch recordings boss, Rob Chadwick. Grainger started the night off with some smooth melodic grooves, then working his way up to a heavier stage of his set which included breaks, deeper sounds and some big drops that got the crowd really moving. Whilst Grainger was on the decks, he liked to throw in a nice tribal back beat or vocal to give a soothing vibe accompanying the heavy house bouncing around the room. It gave the set an increase in mystery but also showed off the talent behind one of the countries rather unsung heroes of the underground scene. This highlighted the real purpose behind the event- promoting local heroes who play resident sets on a regular basis at clubs around the country. As the set was drawing to a close, out emerged Dennis Ferrer and Skream, who decided to dance within the crowd for a few moments before they were due on the decks. It wasn’t until Grainger’s set ended, that the spokesman for the event on the night announced it was, in fact, Grainger’s 30th Birthday- adding a special feel to the evening. Up next was the infamous Dennis Ferrer and all-round gent Skream. In true resident style, the pair decided they would
go back-to-back for their set. These types of sets always engage the dancers as there are no rules or guidelines on what will be played, and this was no exception. Skream, formerly known as Skreamizm from his early drum and bass days, has a vast collection of music in his locker. Able to play anything from acid house to soul, Skream stuck to a majority of tech-house on the night, but found space to switch it up with funky beats from time to time. Dennis Ferrer has been in the game for over two decades and has been at the forefront of every movement within the house culture. He has adopted many styles throughout his career and is most famously recognised as the founder of the Martinez Brothers. The set got off to a welcoming start. It wasn’t long before the pair really started to work the crowd, which was fuelled by the introduction of tequila shots for both DJ’s. Dennis took the set further by dropping a new techno stomper entitled, “The Sound of The Bettest” which released on the label, Truesoul only a few weeks prior to the event. The crowd were in full swing and the reality of Monday evening had slipped everyone’s minds. Both DJ’s were drenched in sweat, showing that the work they were doing was of high calibre and, that the venue was very warm. Groovier and more chilled house songs were played throughout the set, whilst the pair occasionally decided to throw in a big techno drop to add an element of more surprise to the set. To close the night off in spectacular style, the pair invited birthday boy Grainger to the decks for a one off backto-back-to-back set which included all three DJ’s of the night. Clearly an action prompted by the amount of alcohol consumed by Dennis Ferrer and Skream. The last hour saw Skream take a more relaxed approach, making the special set more of a celebration of the night and of course Grainger’s birthday. However, this did not stop the intensity of the set, if anything the music had reached its peak and more faster songs were selected. Dancers began to rave and the DJ’s were clearly intoxicated, but were all working together simultaneously on the decks to find the perfect mix between songs. The spectacular set drew to a close an hour after and the remaining dancers all cheered as they had been part of a very special evening in east London. But before the decks could be turned off and mics unplugged, Skream had one last thing to say, and that was to sing happy birthday to Grainger. The whole crowd joined in with the celebration until one final song was played in honour of the night, Sexual Healing by Marvin Gaye. That was it. The end to a fantastic showcase of what true resident DJ’s can actually do, and as quoted by Dennis Ferrer, “It’s all about fun.”
45
Master File .indd 45
24/04/2018 18:57
2018 Summer of Sole
May Shoe Surgeon Decon Recon Master Class/ NYC This May the Shoe Surgeon brings you the Air Force 1 Masterclass. Though fees may seem a little pricey, all attendees will have the chance to create their own pair with their choice of materials and colours. [theshoesurgeon.com] Crepe City Manchester/ New Century House Noma, Manchester For the first time ever, Crepe City takes the buzzing city of Manchester this summer. Buy your tickets online now, or at the door on the day. [crepe-city.co.uk] Sneakerness / Zurich & Amsterdam Europe’s biggest sneaker convention; Sneakerness, comes to Zurich and Amsterdam this May. Attendees have the chance to cop a range of old and new sneakers including some of the most prized sneakers that exist today! [sneakerness.com]
June Sole Bloc / SWG3 Warehouse, Glasgow Sole Bloc brings you Scotland’s very own sneaker fair. With piles of sneakers, a graffiti wall and a tasty BBQ to satisfy you at the end of a long shopping day, be sure to get your tickets fast! [solebloc.com] Graduate Fashion Week / The Old Truman Brewery, London Showcasing the best from fashion and footwear graduates, Grad Fashion Week is the place to spot the next big footwear designer. Keep an eye on the Clarks Footwear Award for new, budding sneaker designers. [graduatefashionweek.com]
July Solefest / West Palm Beach, Florida July’s hottest sneaker event takes place on the West Coast. The fair brings a number of limited models, and a huge handful of giveaways for attendees on the day. [solefest.com]
46
Master File .indd 46
24/04/2018 18:57
47
Master File .indd 47
24/04/2018 18:57
SSS HHH EEE AA SSS HHH
Copyright & Disclaimer All rights reserved. Š2018 Sheaker. The artciles in Sheaker are written by Editor; Angelee Kholia, unless stated otherwise, and may not be reproduced without permismission. The views expressed in Sheaker are by the Editor or respective author- other parties cannot be held responsible for them. 48
Master File .indd 48
24/04/2018 18:57