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Rachel Berko’s Infinite Potential offers a soulful journey through poetry and prayer, inspiring reflection and connection to our innermost selves. Each page reveals layers of insight, bridging personal growth and spiritual awareness.
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BUTCHER’S CUT STEAK FRITES
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TRAVEL PARIS, STRASBOURG AND THE FRENCH RIVIERA
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EDITOR’S LETTER
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RECIPE INDEX
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SOMETHING SWEET Classic French desserts
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L’CHAIM Unique wines from France
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BREAKING BREAD Baguette
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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Château Lascombes
100 RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Dishes inspired by the kosher restaurants of France 130 LAST BITE #yesitsontheapp
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T H E F R A N C E I SS U E
EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz
ONE OF THE MOST COMMON questions I get, hands down, is, “How do you keep churning out issues? Do you ever run out of ideas?” And while I have yet to truly face writer’s block or magazineplanning block, I credit traveling for keeping my creative fire alive. Leaving my Five Towns bubble — even for a quick trip to the city — sparks endless inspiration. Getting out of one’s comfort zone, in general, is a way to grow and expand ideas, beliefs and values; for me, it keeps the magazine’s content fresh and evolving. Paris was on our wishlist for the longest time. We were fortunate to visit just before the world shut down in early 2020, and that experience was unforgettable. We spent a day with our dear friend, Chef Avner Guzman, immersing ourselves in Parisian flavors and food culture. Since then, with the growth of Fleishigs, it was clear that Paris, and France as a whole, deserved its own dedicated content focus in our magazine. To make this possible, we teamed up with our friends at High Class Travel, who helped us rediscover France in a way that would inspire this entire issue. France, as expected, lived up to the hype — and yet, what struck us most were the contrasts within the country itself. Strasbourg’s Germanic
influence, the Italian charm of the South and, of course, the quintessentially French essence of Paris, each created a distinct culinary and cultural palette. The variety was astounding, giving rise to a collection of recipes that bring the unique flavors of France into our readers’ homes. As Jewish travelers, our experience this time was colored by the events of October 7th. In Paris, we took time to connect with Jewish history, visiting the Shoah Memorial, exploring beautiful synagogues and speaking with esteemed rabbanim about the story of Jewish life in France. It's fascinating to learn that France hosts the largest Jewish population outside of the United States and Israel — a fact that felt especially meaningful as we explored. From a food perspective, I was deeply impressed by France’s accessibility for kosher travelers. The country is not only rich in history and beauty but is also incredibly welcoming for those seeking kosher dining options. In this issue, you’ll find two guiding points: a way to vicariously explore France and bring its flavors to your kitchen. May this edition transport you to the heart of Paris and beyond. Happy travels and cooking!
COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Simone Heimstädt FOOD STYLISTS Shiri Feldman Shifra Klein MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Sheneur Menaker TEST KITCHEN CHEF Suchi Mittel CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt DISTRIBUTOR YMCM DISTRIBUTION ymcmdist@gmail.com
www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors.
Bitayavon, Shifra
Note about this issue: Given the nature of the guide and recipes, I authored most of the issue and its content, unless otherwise specified.
TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @ fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine 16
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RECIPE INDEX F R A N C E
I S S U E
CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 28 Red Wine Reduction Q 28 Classic Aioli D Q
103
Chicken Stuffed Naan
105
Chicken Tikka Masala
105
Moroccan Sausage and Fava Bean Stew
28 Herb Aioli 28 Spicy Aioli 28 Truffle Aioli 32 Pesto M Q 48 Basic Baguette M
106
Chicken Pastilla-Style Egg Rolls FF
108
Smoky Creamy Pasta FF
120
Coq au Vin D
123
Overnight Cassoulet
48 Classic Baguette 106
Apricot Dipping Sauce Q
109
Tahini Sauce M Q
109
Harissa Sauce M Q
110
Caesar Dressing FF Q
110
Baguette Croutons M
VEGETARIAN & SIDES
MEAT & CHICKEN 27
Black Peppercorn-Crusted Filet Mignon
32
Ketchupy Steak Tartare Q
32
Pesto Beef Carpaccio with
27
Frites FF M
28
French Bistro Salad FF
32
Arugula Salad
109
Harissa Roasted Cauliflower D
110
Salmon Caesar Salad FF
115
Next Level Salmon Tartare Q
120
Roasted Pommes Sarladaises D
123
Haricots Verts Amandine M
124
Ratatouille Tart
Mushrooms D 32
Beef Carpaccio with Arugula Salad
Specialty Ingredients List:
20
Elmhurst Dairy-Free Sour Cream
Meal Mart Mexican Chorizo Sausage
Galil Green Double Peeled Fava Beans
We love this tangy, creamy dairy-free sour cream and how well it worked in the Chicken Tikka Masala on page 105. Elmhurst is famous for their unique formula that has no gums or emulsifiers. This sour cream even comes in a squeezable pouch that makes it easy to store and use.
This is the sausage we used in the Sausage and Fava Bean Stew on page 105, as it most closely resembles the spicy flavors of the variety of sausage that we had in France. If you are looking for a mild sausage, Meal Mart’s classic sweet Italian works great in the recipe as well.
Galil Green Double Peeled Fava Beans are tender, ready-tocook fava beans that have been peeled twice and frozen for added convenience. We used it in the Sausage and Fava Bean Stew on page 105.
Fleishigs NOVEMBER 2024
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SWEET TREATS
p. 39
Parisian Crêpes D Crêpe Suzette
39
Tarte Tatin FF
40
Parisian Flan
128
Alsatian Chocolate Raspberry Tart FF
KEY:
Tarte Tatin
p. 124 Ratatouille Tart
38 39
FF
Family-Friendly
M
Minimal Ingredients
Q
Quick
D
Deceptively Simple
New Category Alert: DECEPTIVELY SIMPLE Recipes that are super simple (quick to make and require minimal ingredients and prep work) but present as super impressive
While some of these might already be in your kitchen, others could be new to you. We've included this list to highlight the overall accessibility of our recipes. The remaining ingredients in this issue are mostly common pantry staples.
Bonne Maman Raspberry Preserves We love the texture of the seeds and the strong raspberry flavor in this preserves. It worked wonders in the Alsatian Chocolate Raspberry Tart on page 128.
Ta'amti Harissa Paste There are various harissa pastes on the market. For the Harissa Roasted Cauliflower on page 109, we used this paste that is reminiscent of a snazzed up version of hot sauce.
FollowYour Heart Non-Dairy Parmesan Cheese This vegan alternative to traditional Parmesan, used in the Salmon Caesar Salad on page 110, is made with plant-based ingredients and delivers a nutty, savory flavor and a crumbly texture perfect for sprinkling on pasta, salads and more. NOVEMBER 2024 Fleishigs
21
NOBLE WINES / 845.315.6540 / ORDERS@NOBLEWINESINC.COM
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An indulgence reserved for those who appreciate the extraordinary.
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wo of Noble’s top sellers from Bordeaux are the Châ� teâu Hâut Perdriâs ând the Châ� teâu du Vieux Puit (the preferred âbbreviâtion for the châ� teâu’s nâme is “VIP”). These were produced in pârtnership with the esteemed Vignobles Bouillâc, â fâmily-run wine estâte locâted in the Blâye Co� tes de Bordeâux âppellâtion. The story behind this now highly successful pârtnership âttests to the determinâtion ând focus of the CEDEV teâm of Robby Isrâel ând Moshe Cik.
of sufficiently high quâlity, the report concluded, but of exceptionâl quâlity for thât âppellâtion. Unlike much of the Blâye region, Bouillâc’s vineyârds enjoy â greât diversity of terroirs—â mix of clây, limestone, grâvelly sând, ând grâvelly clây. This diversity âllows Bouillâc to grow â wider vâriety of grâpe vârieties, producing â better quâlity of fruit thân mâny estâtes in Blâye. They grow wines thât typicâlly enjoy greât expression ând complexity.
Following in the footsteps of his fâther ând grândfâther, JeânPierre Bouillâc begân his câreer, ât âge 14, âs â wine nursery grower ât the service of some of Bordeâux’s most prestigious vineyârds. In 1996 he decided to estâblish his own â winery âs well, câlled Châ� teâu du Vieux Puit. Then in 2007 Jeân-Pierre’s godmother, who hâd âlso been â winegrower for more thân 50 yeârs, entrusted him with the cultivâtion of her beloved wine estâte, Châ� teâu Clos du Loup. So, Jeân-Pierre decided to bring his nursery ând two wine estâtes under one entity: Vignobles Bouillâc. The compâny wâs lâter expânded further with the âddition of Châ� teâu Hâut Perdriâs. Todây Vignobles Bouillâc hâs over 100 hectâres.
Bâck in 2018, Robby ând Moshe trâvelled to Bordeâux for â series of meetings with different wine producers to discuss kosher production runs. At one of their first meetings, however, the owner of thât estâte surprised them with bâd news: his châ� teâu hâd ân insufficient supply of grâpes for â kosher production run thât yeâr. With nothing further to discuss, thât meeting câme quickly to ân end. So, Robby ând Moshe drove on to their next meeting.
As they were now too eârly for their next scheduled âppointment, they decided to explore thât pârt of Bordeâux. Amidst the extrâordinâry lândscâpe, rolling vineyârds ând lush green vistâs of this wine-lovers pârâdise, they found ân unfâmiliâr wine estâte ând decided to check it out.
Meânwhile, for more thân 50 yeârs now, Bouillâc’s nursery, Vieux Puit - Pe� pinie� res viticoles, hâs been servicing mâny prestigious châ� teâux, including Grânds Crus Clâsse� du Me� doc (Pâlmer, Râuzân-Seglâ, Giscours, Cântemerle, Le� oville-Poyferre� ), SâintEmilion (Châ� teâu Cânon), ând even Sâuternes (Châ� teâu de Myrât). His nursery works closely with these estâtes from initiâtion to hârvest, giving Bouillâc ân especiâlly cleâr understânding of his crâft, cultivâting vineyârds ând producing wine in Bordeâux.
They were greeted by â friendly mân nâmed Jeân-Pierre Bouillâc, the owner of the estâte. Jeân-Pierre knew nothing âbout kosher wine, he sâys, but wâs intrigued ând eâger to leârn ând try to understând whât they were tâlking âbout. At the end of this impromptu meeting, Jeân-Pierre âgreed to give kosher production â try.
CEDEV followed-up with its usuâl rigorous due diligence. They reseârched the compâny ând the estâte’s vineyârds ând reputâtion ând sent its wine sâmples to their reseârch lâb to be ânâlysed by Olivier, CEDEV’s expert wine speciâlist. The wines were not only
Since thât initiâl chânce encounter, CEDEV’s pârtnership with Bouillâc hâs grown steâdily. They produced three kosher wines in thât first 2018 vintâge. Todây they âre producing 18 different wines together.
Our renowned wines, crafted in this winery.
Robby Israel and Moshe Cik touring the vineyards and barrel rooms.
BUTCHER'S CUT
Discovering the Kosher Fillet Mignon THE CENTER CUT RIB E Y E’S H I D D E N D E L I CACY
BY: N A F TA L I H A N AU
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Fleishigs NOVEMBER 2024
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BUTCHER'S CUT
O N E Q U I N T E SS E N T I A L I M AG E O F E L EGA N C E A N D F I N E D I N I N G I S A P E R F ECT 2- I N C H -T H I C K C I RC L E O F S E A R E D B E E F, P E R H A PS R E ST I N G I N A P O O L O F PA N SAU C E A N D D E L I CAT E LY GA R N I S H E D. W E OW E T H I S TO F R A N C E , O R R AT H E R, TO A M E R I CA’S O B S E SS I O N W I T H F R E N C H C U I S I N E AS T H E “U LT I M AT E” FO O D E X P E R I E N C E , E S P EC I A L LY I N T H E 20 T H C E N T U RY.
WHAT IS IT?
The only problem for kosher-keepers, of course, is that this particularly tender medallion of a muscle that was so beloved by the French comes from the back portion of the steer, which is not used for kosher meat in the United States. The solution? The “filet mignon,” or eye of the rib, is a tidy little steak cut from the center of the rib that is both relatively lean and tender, just like its namesake. If you’ve ever eaten a rib steak, or seen a picture of one, you can probably visualize two distinct areas. The outside crescent is much more marbled and the center is more lean, usually with an arc of fat connecting the two. To make filet mignon, a butcher will cut the crescent steak off the rib when it's whole, creating one of my favorite London broil-type steaks of all time, a crescent or suprise steak, leaving behind the tender, relatively lean eye-ofthe-rib, or “filet.” This long tube of lean, tender rib meat can then be cut in 2-inch portions to create filet mignon or it can be left whole and sold as a “tenderloin roast.” (That would also be the cut to use if you were making Beef Wellington, a roast that is baked inside a layer of puff pastry.) The flavor and juiciness of your filet mignon is going to depend on your cattle. Domestic, grain-fed cattle are generally more marbled, while imported and/or grass-fed cattle tend to be leaner. While you’ll find that this cut is relatively tender regardless of its provenance, there is a difference in flavor, so choose according to your preference.
HOW DO YOU COOK IT?
The most important thing when cooking lean and tender meat is not to overdo it. Without a lot of connective tissue or fats to baste the meat, you risk the meat drying out if it’s cooked for too long. Instead, opt for a quick sear over very high heat – this will caramelize the outsides and leave you with a medium-rare to rare center that looks so beautiful when the steak is sliced. We like to remove this steak from the heat at 1100F for rare or 1200F for medium-rare. Whether lean or marbled, filet mignon is a relatively mild steak. If you’re looking to boost the flavor, I’d recommend making a quick pan sauce after searing the steaks. (Have your ingredients ready before you cook the steak, so you can complete the sauce while the steaks rest for 10 minutes and enjoy it on the steaks while they’re still warm.) In the same pan you used to cook the steaks, without cleaning it first, add a touch of neutral cooking oil or shmaltz and increase the heat to medium-low. Add some chopped shallots and cook until tender for 2-3 minutes, scraping up the fond (browned bits on the pan) with a wooden spoon as you go. Increase the heat to medium-high and add 1 cup red wine. Allow the wine to come to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the alcohol has burned off and the liquid has reduced slightly. Continue to scrape up anything else that’s still stuck to the pan. Add 1 cup of chicken or vegetable broth and continue to cook until the liquid has reduced by about half. Remove from heat and add duck fat or non-dairy butter a few pieces at a time, stirring vigorously to melt the fat and stabilize the emulsion. If the sauce separates, add a splash of broth or water and stir quickly to bring it back together. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper and serve the sauce over your filet mignon.
NOVEMBER 2024 Fleishigs
25
BUTCHER'S CUT
FILET MIGNON ‘KOSHER-STYLE’
Each month, we spotlight a particular cut of meat, and for this issue, we initially planned to cover the classic French dish — steak frites. Our original focus was on the recipe itself rather than a specific cut. However, reflecting on our recent travels, we knew we had to feature the exceptional steak tartare we enjoyed at Avner Guzman’s restaurant, Etnikahn, along with a memorable beef carpaccio from both Etnikahn and L’Atelier Deli. We realized these dishes shared a common ingredient: the eye of the rib, often called “kosher filet mignon.” This cut stood out for its versatility, and we chose to highlight it here. Another great alternative is oyster or Denver steak.
STEAK FRITES
Steak frites is found on the menu at almost every French bistro and meat restaurant. What makes it special is the no frills approach — steak seasoned simply with kosher salt and black pepper, then seared and served with fries and a side of steak sauce. Some spots offer a salad alongside, but in most places, the highlights are the perfectly cooked steak and the perfectly fried potatoes that make the dish sublime.
26
Fleishigs NOVEMBER 2024
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BUTCHER'S CUT
THE STEAK Black Peppercorn-Crusted Filet Mignon Serves: 2
This recipe features a beautifully seared filet mignon coated with crushed black peppercorns, delivering a bold, peppery flavor with a juicy, tender interior. Perfect for a special occasion or an elevated dinner, it’s perfect on its own or served with a rich sauce such as a red wine reduction or a simple pan sauce. For a fully composed meal, serve alongside fries or mashed potatoes and a lightly dressed salad. 2 2 1-2 2 2 2 2
(6-8 ounce) kosher filet mignon steaks, about 1½ inches thick tablespoons whole black peppercorns teaspoons kosher salt tablespoons neutral oil (such as avocado or grapeseed oil) tablespoons chicken fat or nondairy butter substitute sprigs fresh thyme, optional cloves garlic, smashed, optional
1. Set the steaks at room temperature for about 30 minutes before cooking. 2. Pat steaks dry with paper towels, then season generously with salt on both sides. 3. Place black peppercorns in a mortar and crush using a pestle. Alternatively, place between two pieces of parchment paper or plastic wrap and use a rolling pin, meat mallet or a heavy skillet to coarsely crush the peppercorns. 4. Press crushed peppercorns onto both sides of each steak, ensuring the surface is evenly coated. 5. Heat oil in a heavy skillet (preferably cast iron) over medium-high heat until shimmering. 6. Sear steaks for 3-4 minutes per side (for medium-rare), until the internal temperature reaches 125°F (52°C). Adjust cooking time based on your preferred doneness (i.e. 135°F for medium). 7. During the last minute of cooking, reduce heat to medium and add chicken fat, thyme and smashed garlic (if desired) to the pan. As the chicken fat melts, tilt the pan and use a spoon to baste the steaks with the chicken fat for extra richness. 8. Remove steaks from the skillet and set aside to rest for about 5 minutes to allow the juices to redistribute.
THE FRIES Frites Serves: 4
The key here is to take the steps necessary to achieve a perfect crispy fry. 4
large Russet potatoes, peeled Vegetable oil, for frying Kosher salt, to taste Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish, optional
1. Cut potatoes into thin matchsticks, about ¼ inch thick. Soak potatoes in cold water for at least 30 minutes. This step removes excess starch and yields crispier fries. 2. Drain and pat potatoes dry with a clean kitchen towel or paper towels. 3. Heat 3-4 inches of oil in a Dutch oven or large, heavy-bottomed pot to 325°F. Working in batches, fry potatoes for 4-5 minutes, until pale and soft but not golden. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. 4. Raise oil temperature to 375°F and fry potatoes a second time until golden brown and crispy, 2-3 minutes. Drain again and season immediately with salt. Garnish with parsley (if desired) right before serving.
NOVEMBER 2024 Fleishigs
27
BUTCHER'S CUT
THE SAUCES
THE SALAD
Red Wine Reduction
Classic Aioli
French Bistro Salad
Yield: 1 heaping cup
Yield: 1 cup
Serves: 6
This sauce is rich and deep in flavor. You can strain it if you prefer it smooth or leave as is for added texture from the shallots . Keep in mind that the salt and pepper is only to taste, as the flavor will depend on how salty or flavorful your broth is.
Aioli is a flavorful garlic mayonnaise that pairs wonderfully with steak frites.
A staple of French cuisine, the classic French bistro salad (known as salade bistro in French) is known for its simplicity, freshness and perfect balance of flavors. This salad typically features crisp greens, tangy Dijon vinaigrette and a few carefully selected ingredients like soft-boiled eggs, bacon lardons and sometimes croutons or cheese. It’s the kind of salad that’s hearty enough to be a meal but still light and refreshing enough to be a starter.
1 1 1 1 1 1
tablespoon olive oil small shallot, diced cup red wine (such as Cabernet or Merlot) tablespoon fresh thyme leaves cup beef, chicken or vegetable broth Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste tablespoon balsamic vinegar, optional
2-3 1 1 1 ½
cloves garlic, minced egg yolk, at room temperature tablespoon lemon juice or white wine vinegar, plus more to taste teaspoon Dijon mustard cup olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1. Add garlic, egg yolk, lemon juice and Dijon mustard to a blender or food processor fitted with the S-blade attachment. While the machine is running, stream in oil until mixture is thickened and emulsified; it should be creamy.
1. Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add shallots and sauté until soft and translucent, 5-6 minutes.
2. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Add more lemon juice if desired.
2. Add wine and thyme. Bring to a simmer and cook until reduced by half, 5-7 minutes.
VARIATIONS • Herb Aioli: Add chopped fresh herbs like parsley, tarragon or chives for a bright pop of flavor and green hue.
3. Add stock. Bring to a simmer again and cook until reduced and thickened, about 10 minutes. 4. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Add balsamic vinegar (if desired) for extra depth.
• Spicy Aioli: Mix in a dash of cayenne pepper, Sriracha or smoked paprika for a kick. • Truffle Aioli: Stir in a few drops of truffle oil to add an earthy richness.
1 3 2 1 6 6 ¼ ¼
(4-6 ounce) package beef bacon, cut into bite-size pieces tablespoons red wine vinegar tablespoons Dijon mustard shallot, finely minced Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste tablespoons olive oil cups mixed salad greens (such as frisée, arugula or butter lettuce) cup cherry tomatoes, halved cup Baguette Croutons (page 110), optional Chopped fresh parsley or tarragon, for garnish
1. Add beef bacon to a cold skillet over medium heat; cook until crispy, then transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain, leaving the rendered fat in the skillet. 2. Whisk red wine vinegar, Dijon mustard and minced shallot. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. While whisking, slowly drizzle in the oil until emulsified. For added richness, you can incorporate 1 tablespoon of the rendered fat from the skillet into the vinaigrette. 3. Toss salad greens with vinaigrette in a large bowl. Divide the dressed greens among plates and top with crispy beef bacon, cherry tomatoes and croutons (if desired). Garnish with parsley or tarragon.
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BUTCHER'S CUT
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BUTCHER'S CUT
KETCHUPY STEAK TARTARE
BEEF CARPACCIO WITH ARUGULA SALAD
NOVEMBER 2024 Fleishigs
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FEAST
STEAK STARTERS: TARTARE & CARPACCIO Ketchupy Steak Tartare Serves: 2-4
Steak tartare is a classic French dish made from finely chopped or minced raw beef, typically seasoned with various condiments and served with egg yolk. Adding ketchup to steak tartare adds a touch of sweetness and tang — a completely unexpected addition to most steak tartares served in the kosher meat restaurants in Paris.
NOTE: If you prefer a finer texture for your steak tartare, run the steak through a meat grinder or pulse a few times in a food processor. However, keep in mind that traditional steak tartare typically has more texture than ground beef. 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1
(8-ounce) cold kosher filet mignon or oyster steak, trimmed of fat tablespoons ketchup teaspoon Dijon mustard tablespoon capers, drained and chopped tablespoon finely minced shallots tablespoon finely minced cornichons or pickles tablespoon olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste egg yolk, optional Fresh parsley, finely chopped, for garnish Toasted sliced baguette or crackers, for serving
1. Use a sharp knife to finely mince steak into small pieces; set aside. 2. Mix ketchup, Dijon mustard, capers, shallots, cornichons, and olive oil. Add chopped steak and gently mix until incorporated. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. 3. Shape tartare into a mound or use a ring mold for a more elegant presentation. If using an egg yolk, make a small indentation in the tartare and nestle the egg yolk inside. 4. Garnish with parsley and serve alongside toasted sliced baguette. TIPS
Beef Quality: Since steak tartare is made with raw beef, it's important to use the freshest, highest-quality beef available. Look for grass-fed or organic beef and 32
Fleishigs NOVEMBER 2024
buy from a trusted butcher. You can also sear the steak and even cook to rare for a somewhat cooked version of steak tartare. Texture: The beef can be chopped as fine or coarse as you prefer. Some like it finely minced, while others prefer more texture with larger pieces. Variations: You can add other ingredients like chopped chives, hot sauce for heat or even a splash of cognac for an extra depth of flavor.
Pesto Beef Carpaccio with Mushrooms Serves: 2
Searing the steak for just a few minutes gives added flavor and texture to this dish. The pesto can be used on anything for an added pop of brightness and bold flavor. Feel free to use any mushrooms you like, such as white beech or enoki mushrooms, for an elevated flavor. FOR THE PESTO: 1 cup fresh basil leaves ¼ cup pine nuts 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste FOR THE CARPACCIO: 1 tablespoon avocado oil 1 (8-ounce) cold kosher filet mignon or oyster steak Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling FOR THE MUSHROOMS: 1 cup white button mushrooms, wiped clean and sliced paper thin 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 tablespoon lemon juice or red wine vinegar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1. For the pesto, add basil, pine nuts and garlic to a blender or food processor fitted with the S-blade attachment. With the machine running, gradually add oil until pesto is smooth. Season with salt and pepper, to taste; set aside or refrigerate until ready to use.
3. Meanwhile, toss mushrooms with olive oil and lemon juice. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. 4. Remove steak from the freezer and, using a very sharp knife, slice it as thinly as possible against the grain. Arrange slices, slightly overlapped, on a large serving platter. Drizzle with a bit of olive oil. 5. Drizzle carpaccio with pesto and scatter mushrooms on top. Drizzle with a bit more olive oil and season with more salt and pepper, to taste.
Beef Carpaccio with Arugula Salad Serves: 2
This version of carpaccio pairs peppery arugula with the lightly seared beef. If arugula isn’t your taste, use any spring mix or even baby spinach. FOR THE CARPACCIO: 1 tablespoon avocado oil 1 (8-ounce) cold kosher filet mignon or oyster steak Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling FOR THE ARUGULA SALAD: 1 cup arugula 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 cup roasted red peppers, julienned, drained of excess liquid Balsamic reduction, for drizzling 1. For the carpaccio, heat oil in a skillet over high heat. Sear steak for 1 minute per side, for a total of 3-4 minutes. Transfer steak to a plate and freeze for 15 minutes to chill and firm up. 2. Meanwhile, toss arugula with olive oil and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. 3. Remove steak from the freezer and, using a very sharp knife, slice it as thinly as possible against the grain. Arrange slices, slightly overlapped, on a large serving platter. Drizzle with a bit of olive oil. 4. Top steak with arugula salad and roasted red peppers. Finish with a drizzle of balsamic reduction.
2. For the carpaccio, heat oil in a skillet over high heat. Sear steak for 1 minute per side, for a total of 3-4 minutes. Transfer steak to a plate and freeze for 15 minutes to chill and firm up. www.fleishigs.com
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SOMETHING SWEET
Parisian Pastry Perfection
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Crepes Suzette 36
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SOMETHING SWEET
Tarte Tatin NOVEMBER 2024 Fleishigs
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SOMETHING SWEET
Parisian Crêpes Yield: 8-10 crêpes
Parisian crêpes are thin, delicate pancakes that can be served with a variety of sweet or savory fillings. They remind us of Casa Bianca, the family-run dairy kosher restaurant in Cannes that serves delicious homemade crêpes.
NOTE: Crêpes can be served sweet or savory, which is why the vanilla and sugar are optional additions in the recipe below. 1 1 2 1½ 2 1
cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour Pinch of kosher salt tablespoon sugar (for sweet crêpes) eggs cups (375 ml) non-dairy milk substitute tablespoons unsalted non-dairy butter substitute, melted, plus more for cooking teaspoon pure vanilla extract (for sweet crêpes)
1. Whisk flour, salt and sugar (for sweet crêpes). Make a well in the center and crack in the eggs. Start whisking from the center, gradually drawing in the flour from the edges. 2. Slowly pour in the milk, while continuing to whisk, ensuring the batter is smooth and free of lumps. 3. Add melted butter and vanilla extract (for sweet crêpes); whisk until fully incorporated. 4. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set aside to rest for at least 30 minutes at room temperature. This helps the flour absorb the liquid and results in a better texture. 5. Heat a non-stick skillet or crêpe pan over medium heat. Lightly grease it with a small amount of butter. 6. Pour about ¼ cup batter into the center of the pan. Quickly swirl the pan to spread the batter into a thin, even layer. Cook for 1-2 minutes, until the edges start to lift and the bottom is lightly golden. Flip crêpe and cook for another 30-60 seconds. 7. Remove crêpe from the pan and repeat with remaining batter, greasing pan with butter as needed in between. 8. Stack crêpes on a plate and cover with a clean kitchen towel to keep them warm.
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SOMETHING SWEET
Crêpes Suzette
Tarte Tatin
Serves: 4
Serves: 8
In the world of desserts, few are as elegant and timeless as Crêpes Suzette. With its origins rooted in French culinary tradition, this dish marries the delicate texture of thin crêpes with the vibrant flavors of citrus and caramel.
This fabulous upside-down apple tart was first made by the Tatin sisters at their restaurant in the Loire Valley. Legend has it that it was created by mistake but was served to the guests anyway. Over 100 years later, it’s still a classic. Meltin-your-mouth caramelized apples are topped with a thin layer of puff pastry and baked in the same skillet used to caramelize the apples.
¼ ⅓ ½ 2 2 8
cup (½ stick) non-dairy butter substitute cup sugar cup fresh orange juice tablespoons lemon juice Zest of 1 orange tablespoons orange liqueur, optional Parisian Crêpes (recipe above) Orange slices, optional, for garnish
1. Melt butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add sugar and stir until it dissolves and begins to bubble. 2. Add orange juice, lemon juice and orange zest. Stir and let the mixture simmer until it slightly thickens, about 5 minutes. 3. Remove the pan from the heat, pour in the liqueur and carefully ignite with a long lighter. Let the alcohol burn off, then return the pan to low heat. 4. Fold each crêpe into quarters and place them in the pan with the sauce. Heat gently, spooning the sauce over the crepes to coat them well. 5. Once crêpes are heated through and well-coated with sauce, transfer them to plates. Garnish with orange slices and an extra drizzle of sauce.
1 3-4
½ ¾
sheet puff pastry dough pounds medium Golden Delicious apples (about 8-10), peeled, cored and halved cup refined coconut oil or ½ cup (1 stick) non-dairy butter substitute cup sugar, plus more for dusting Cinnamon, for dusting (optional)
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Lightly roll out puff pastry sheet on a lightly floured surface, then cut it into a 10-inch round. Place it on a baking sheet and prick all over with a fork. Transfer baking sheet to the freezer to chill slightly. 2. Cut a thin slice off the stem ends of the apples so they can stand upright in the pan. 3. Melt coconut oil in a 9-inch oven-proof skillet over medium heat. Sprinkle sugar evenly over the melted coconut oil, then quickly
arrange as many apples as possible in a concentric circle, standing them upright on their stem ends and packing them tightly together. Not all the apples will fit at first, but as they cook, release juices and shrink, you’ll be able to add the rest. Use a spatula to press the apples together tightly, ensuring they hold their shape when the tart is inverted later. 4. Cook over medium heat, gently shaking the skillet to prevent the apples from sticking. Press apples lightly to form a compact layer. As space becomes available, add remaining apples. Continue cooking until the sugar turns a deep golden brown, 2025 minutes, depending on the skillet and heat level. Do not increase the heat to make the process go faster, as the apples will burn. 5. Remove puff pastry from the freezer and lay it over the apples, tucking it tightly between the apples and the edges of the skillet. 6. Lower oven temperature to 375°F and bake for about 30 minutes, until pastry is fully cooked and deeply golden. 7. Allow tart to cool for about 10 minutes, letting the caramelized sugar thicken into a syrup. If the apples stick to the skillet, gently reheat it on the stove until the tart releases. 8. Just before serving, carefully invert the tart onto a serving platter, using pot holders to carefully flip the skillet. Dust with cinnamon and sugar. Serve immediately.
NOTES: • We find that using coconut oil to caramelize the apples is tastier and healthier than margarine. However, be sure to buy refined coconut oil, which is recommended for high heat. • Golden Delicious apples are a must for this recipe, as they have higher starch content and will not fall apart while caramelizing. • To oven-proof a skillet with a rubber handle, simply wrap the handle with several layers of aluminum foil. • The tarte can sit in the skillet for a few hours, uncovered, at room temperature. Once ready to serve, place it in a hot oven for 6-10 minutes.
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SOMETHING SWEET
Parisian Flan Serves: 8
If there was one dish we couldn’t get enough of, it would have to be the flan at The Reserve. The milk-based vanilla-infused custard is perfect, and we knew we had to recreate it.
NOTES: • There is nothing like a dairy flan, so feel free to make it dairy by using butter, whole milk and heavy cream. • The key to the perfect texture is to bake the custard until it’s just set, otherwise it can get a bit grainy. To avoid that, use a thermometer to check the internal temperature of the flan. Once the flan reaches 1750F, you know it’s ready to come out. FOR THE PASTRY: 1¼ cups (150 grams) all-purpose flour ⅓ cup (50 grams) confectioners’ sugar Pinch of kosher salt ½ cup (115 grams) cold non-dairy butter substitute, cubed 1 egg
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FOR THE CUSTARD: 3 cups (500 ml) unsweetened almond, oat or soy milk 1 cup (250 ml) canned coconut cream 2 teaspoons vanilla bean paste or 1 vanilla bean ⅔ cup (130 grams) sugar ⅓ cup (40 grams) cornstarch 4 egg yolks 1 large egg Zest of 1 lemon, optional
5. In a separate bowl, whisk sugar, cornstarch, eggs and lemon zest (if desired) until smooth.
1. For the pastry, mix flour, confectioners’ sugar and salt in a large mixing bowl.
7. Preheat oven to 375°F. Roll out chilled pastry dough on a lightly floured surface to fit into a 9-inch tart pan. Press dough into the tart pan and press into the edges. Trim any excess dough.
2. Using your fingers, mix butter into the dry ingredients until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Add egg; mix until dough comes together. 3. Shape dough into a disc, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. 4. For the custard, add milk and coconut cream to a saucepan over medium heat. Add vanilla bean paste (or slice vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds). Heat until mixture is warm but not boiling. Remove from heat.
6. Gradually pour warm milk mixture into egg mixture, whisking constantly to prevent eggs from curdling. Return the entire mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until thickened and custard-like in consistency. Remove from heat and set aside to cool slightly.
8. Pour custard into the pastry shell. Bake for 35-40 minutes, until custard is set and top is slightly golden brown. Set aside to cool completely before removing the flan from the tart pan.
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L'CHAIM
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L'CHAIM
Santé! BY: GA B R I E L G E L L E R, WS E T I I I
F
rance is widely regarded as the “OG” of modern winemaking. Though we know that ancient wine production originated in regions like Israel and Georgia (the country), the contemporary form of this craft was largely developed in France, alongside neighboring countries such as Italy and Spain.
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L'CHAIM
F
rench wine production, dating back to Roman times, has evolved significantly over the centuries. This craft was refined in the medieval era by monks who mastered vine cultivation and winemaking, primarily for religious purposes. These practices later transitioned into a scientific approach, with the French setting many viticulture and enology standards that now define global winemaking. The 19th century posed significant challenges, notably the phylloxera epidemic that ravaged vineyards across Europe and beyond. This crisis led to innovations like grafting European vines onto phylloxera-resistant American rootstocks, a technique that saved the industry. French winemaking is also a reflection of the unique cultures and traditions of its diverse regions, from Bordeaux to Burgundy to the Rhône Valley. Each region contributes distinct methods and flavors, rooted in local terroir and heritage, making wine a key aspect of French culture. The title of this article, “santé,” translates to “health” in French and is equivalent to “cheers” or “l’chaim.” This expression is a wish for good health and happiness, epitomizing the French appreciation for good wine, fine food and convivial company. As far as wine is concerned, there is clearly a consensus between French and Jewish culture. This term also aptly describes the daily consumption of wine in France, traditionally viewed as part of a healthy lifestyle. While opinions in the scientific and healthcare communities may vary, I believe that life's pleasures, like wine, should be enjoyed in moderation, with a focus on quality. Here are some excellent kosher French wines from several regions to (re)discover. Santé! L’chaim!
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Champagne Barons de Rothschild Rosé Brut, NV This Champagne producer is a joint venture of the three branches of the Rothschild family from the famed Châteaux Lafite, Clarke and MoutonRothschild. This beautiful, elegant Champagne exemplifies the kind of wine that results from combining so much knowledge, passion and uncompromising standards. With notes of freshly picked strawberries, sour cherries, vanilla and a hint of freshly baked sourdough bread, this luxurious sparkling wine will elevate any meal or joyous occasion.
Koenig Gewürztraminer, 2022 From the Alsace region, which focuses mostly on white varieties, this is a wine that represents the viticulture of the area quite well, and the pricing is also quite attractive. This aromatic white wine features intense notes of lychee, rose petals and spices. The palate is mediumbodied, with generous notes of tropical fruits and ginger, balanced by a refreshing acidity. It is ideal for spicy Chinese or Mexican dishes.
Bourillon d'Orléans Vouvray Sec, 2023 This wine is from the Loire Valley, where the Chenin Blanc variety is one of the stars, with expressions ranging from bone dry like this wine to lusciously sweet and decadent. This wine features vibrant aromas of green apple and honeysuckle on the nose, complemented on the palate by notes of lime and Anjou pear, with a lively acidity. This mediumbodied white wine is perfect with chicken or delicate fish.
Domaine Raymond Usseglio Châteauneufdu-Pape Vieilles Vignes, 2022 From one of the greatest wineries of the Rhône Valley, this is a rich, complex blend crafted from grapes grown on old vines. The nose shows ripe dark fruits like blackberry and plum, with hints of allspice, black pepper, leather and herbal undertones. The palate is fullbodied and fruity, with a velvety texture, firm tannins and a long finish. This wine pairs excellently with hearty dishes like big roasts, beef stews or lamb chili.
Château Dauzac, Margaux, 2021 This first-time kosher cuvée from a prestigious Bordeaux château has pulled off one of the best wines from the challenging 2021 vintage. The nose features ripe cassis, violets and a hint of oak. On the medium- to full-bodied palate, it presents layers of cassis, black cherry, cigar tobacco and earthy notes, balanced by medium-plus acidity and polished tannins.
J. de Villebois Sancerre Silex, 2023 This wine is a quintessential expression of the Sancerre appellation, renowned for its flinty terroir that imparts a distinctive minerality to its wines. The Silex terroir is all of that, but on steroids. This crisp white is made from Sauvignon Blanc, showcasing vibrant acidity and purity of fruit. It shows aromas of grapefruit and green apple, complemented by a subtle smokiness and hints of fresh herbs. On the palate, it is light- to medium-bodied, yet intense, with flavors of lime, underripe pear and a sharp, refreshing finish. This is a wine that genuinely highlights the mineraldriven character of Sancerre!
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BREAKING BREAD
French Baguette F
ew breads are as iconic in French culture as the baguette. With its crisp, golden crust and airy crumb, the baguette is more than just a staple; it’s a symbol of French culinary artistry and daily life. This long, slender loaf has a rich history dating back to the 19th century, when advancements in baking technology and changes in French bread laws shaped it into the beloved form we know today. Typically measuring about 24 inches, a baguette’s crisp exterior and soft, chewy interior are the result of precise baking techniques. Steam in the oven creates its signature crackling crust, while slow fermentation develops its complex flavor. French bread laws, known as "lois sur le pain," regulate the production and sale of bread to preserve traditional methods and ensure quality. These laws define bread types like the baguette, pain de campagne and pain complet, mandating natural ingredients — wheat flour, water, yeast and salt. The regulations uphold traditional baking techniques, including the use of steam ovens, and restrict artificial additives and preservatives. Designed to protect consumers and artisanal bakers, these laws maintain high-quality standards and preserve France's bread-making heritage in an increasingly industrialized market. The baguette specifically must be made from basic ingredients and follow strict size guidelines, typically around 24 inches (60 cm) long and 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. Interestingly, the baguette's shape gained popularity during World War I for its practicality — soldiers could easily carry it. Its status was further solidified in the 1920s, when bread laws standardized its production and quality. In addition to ingredient regulations, labeling laws ensure consumers know exactly what they’re buying, and oven standards mandate the use of steam to create the characteristic crust that defines authentic French bread.
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BREAKING BREAD
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BREAKING BREAD
Basic Baguette
Classic Baguette
Yields: 2 baguettes
Yields: 2 baguettes
This is a very basic baguette recipe. Think of it as the Americanized par-cooked baguettes available in most kosher supermarkets. It’s slightly crunchy on the outside and soft and fluffy on the inside.
The following recipe yields baguette with a crunchier exterior, most reminiscent of a classic French baguette. To achieve this, we utilized the same recipe as above, but prepared a poolish the night before. A poolish is a type of pre-ferment used in French and Italian bread baking. It’s made by mixing flour, water and a small amount of yeast and setting it aside to ferment for several hours (usually overnight). Poolish gives bread a slightly tangy taste and a chewy, open crumb structure.
NOTE: If you are not weighing out your ingredients, start with 3 cups of flour and add the extra ¼ cup as needed. 1 1¼ 3¼ 1½
teaspoon (4 grams) active-dry yeast cups (300 ml) warm water (110°F) cups (415 grams) bread flour, plus more for dusting teaspoons (9 grams) kosher salt
1. Dissolve yeast in warm water and set aside for 5 minutes until frothy. 2. Whisk flour and salt in a large mixing bowl. Create a well in the center and add yeast mixture; mix until dough begins to come together. 3. Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic; dough should be slightly sticky but workable. Place dough into a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel and set aside to rise in a warm place for 1–2 hours or until doubled in size. 4. Punch down the risen dough and turn onto a lightly floured surface. 5. Divide dough into two equal portions. Shape each portion into a rectangle, fold the long sides toward the center and roll into a log, sealing the seam. Gently roll out the logs to 12-14 inches and place on a lightly floured parchment-lined baking sheet or a baguette pan, seam-side down. Cover baguettes with a kitchen towel and set aside to rise for another 45-60 minutes, until slightly puffed. 6. Preheat oven to 475°F. Place a shallow pan of water on the bottom oven rack to create steam. 7. Just before baking, score each baguette with 3-4 diagonal slashes using a sharp paring knife or sourdough lame. Bake baguettes for 20-25 minutes, until golden brown and hollow-sounding when tapped. Let cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes before slicing.
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FOR THE POOLISH: 1 cup (130 grams) bread flour ½ cup (120 ml) warm water ¼ teaspoon (1 gram) active-dry yeast FOR THE DOUGH: ¾ teaspoon (3 grams) active-dry yeast 1 cup (240 ml) warm water 2¼ cups (285 grams) bread flour 1½ teaspoons (9 grams) kosher salt 1. For the poolish, mix bread flour, water and yeast together in a small bowl until a smooth batter forms. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature for 10-16 hours (overnight) until bubbly and doubled in size.
PRO TIP: use baguette pans to get the perfect shape.
2. For the dough, dissolve yeast in warm water and set aside for 5 minutes until frothy. 3. Whisk flour and salt in a large mixing bowl. Create a well in the center and add yeast mixture and poolish; mix until dough begins to come together. 4. Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for about 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic; dough should be slightly sticky but workable. Place dough into a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel and set aside to rise in a warm place for 1–2 hours or until doubled in size. 5. Punch down the risen dough and turn onto a lightly floured surface. 6. Divide dough into two equal portions. Shape each portion into a rectangle, fold the long sides toward the center and roll into a log, sealing the seam. Gently roll out the logs to 12-14 inches and place on a lightly floured parchment-lined baking sheet or a baguette pan, seam-side down. Cover baguettes with a kitchen towel and set aside to rise for another 45-60 minutes, until slightly puffed. 7. Preheat oven to 475°F. Place a shallow pan of water on the bottom oven rack to create steam. 8. Just before baking, score each baguette with 3-4 diagonal slashes using a sharp paring knife or sourdough lame. Bake baguettes for 20-25 minutes, until golden brown and hollow-sounding when tapped. Let cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes before slicing.
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BREAKING BREAD
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THE PERFECT PAIRING One of the most memorable dining experiences we had in France was savoring kosher charcuterie, freshly baked baguettes and a trio of condiments and spreads from a local kosher market. Inspired by that meal in the south of France, we later recreated the experience at home. After perfecting our own baguette recipe, we sourced high-quality charcuterie from Five Fifty Steakhouse, a restaurant and specialty market in Cedarhurst, NY, and brought the flavors we so enjoyed in France into our home. There’s something special about having a deli or charcuterie
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FRENCH RIVIERA TRAVEL
A Kosher Journey Through France: E X P LO R I N G PA R I S, ST R AS B O U RG, A N D T H E SO U T H’S C U L I N A RY D E L I G H TS
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Paris
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orleans
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MAP ILLUSTRATIONS: SIMONE TIEBER
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Lyon
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rance is where elegance meets amazing food, and for kosher travelers, it's packed with flavors shaped by Jewish heritage. Start in the lively streets of Paris, where iconic bakeries and stylish kosher bistros let you taste a cool mix of tradition and creativity. Head northeast to Strasbourg, where cozy timber-framed houses and Alsatian vibes make every meal feel like a cultural adventure. Then, go south to Provence and the Côte d'Azur for sunny vineyards, olive groves, kosher restaurants and Shabbat options that highlight the best of the Mediterranean. Dive into this delicious journey through France’s unique, kosher-friendly food scene.
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Unforgettable France: A C U L I N A RY A N D C U LT U R A L I T I N E R A RY F RO M PA R I S TO CA N N E S C R E AT E D BY: H I G H C L ASS T R AV E L
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Paris: A Timeless Beginning Flight: We flew in style to Paris on La Compagnie, an airline known for its boutique, all-business class seating and competitive rates. Arriving in Paris was a treat in itself, with comfort and class setting the tone for the entire trip. Hotel: In Paris, we stayed at the Park Hyatt in the 1st arrondissement. This luxurious hotel was perfectly situated, offering easy access to some of Paris’ most iconic sights and kosher dining options nearby. DAYS 1-2: PARIS EXPLORATION We immersed ourselves in the city, from the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre to beautiful and inspiring synagogues, Le Marais and the Holocaust Museum. There’s a unique beauty in walking the streets of Paris, exploring the city parks and savoring the bustling restaurant and shopping scenes.
Strasbourg: A Swift Journey by Train
The Riviera: Nice, Cannes and Beyond
DAY 3: HIGH-SPEED TRAIN TO STRASBOURG
DAY 5: NICE
Our adventure continued as we took a high-speed train from Paris to Strasbourg, a journey that would typically take five hours by car but was less than two hours by train and another seamless addition by our friends at High Class Travel. We took a quick taxi and arrived in Strasbourg’s city center, which made walking to our hotel, Maison Rouge, easy and scenic. The evening included a delightful dinner at Empire Steak Building, followed by a stroll back to our hotel. DAY 4: STRASBOURG CITY TOUR A segway tour took us through Strasbourg’s highlights, including the charming “Little Paris” area. The city’s French and German influences and variety of kosher restaurants created a beautiful blend of cultures and sights.
From Strasbourg, we took an early cab to Basel, Switzerland, where we caught a flight to Nice. Arriving at Nice Airport felt like stepping into a postcard with the stunning views of the coast and city. We spent the day taking in Nice’s vibrant streets, cafés and breathtaking Mediterranean scenery. DAY 6: SHABBAT IN NICE HCT’s selection of kosher-friendly hotels and accommodations made observing Shabbat simple and comfortable, allowing us to enjoy a meaningful experience in Nice. DAY 7: DAY TRIP TO CANNES AND SURROUNDING AREAS We ventured to Cannes, exploring neighboring Jewish towns like Antibes. Each stop offered something unique, from charming seaside views to historic neighborhoods. The convenience of a kosher-friendly hotel selection along the Riviera made our travels stress-free and enjoyable. DAY 8: RETURN TO JFK After our time on the Riviera, we flew back to JFK with Air France, wrapping up an unforgettable journey with the luxury and comfort we had enjoyed throughout.
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Beyond Booking H OW A T R AV E L AG E N T E L E VAT E S YO U R T R AV E L E X P E R I E N C E Competitive Rates, Special Amenities, Contacts, and Relationships
BOOKING THIS TRIP THROUGH HIGH CLASS TRAVEL WAS ONE OF THE BEST DECISIONS WE MADE. NOT ONLY DID OUR AGENT SECURE EXCEPTIONAL RATES ON PREMIUM FLIGHTS, BUT THEY ALSO PROVIDED AN IMPRESSIVE ARRAY OF PERKS THAT WE WOULDN’T HAVE FOUND ON OUR OWN. HERE ARE JUST A FEW HIGHLIGHTS OF WHAT MADE WORKING WITH A TRAVEL AGENCY INVALUABLE: Expert Planning and Connections High Class Travel’s knowledge of each location helped us make the most of our time, from arranging activities to recommending unique dining experiences. During the trip, we had to make some last-minute adjustments to our schedule; thankfully, our agent had local contacts who helped arrange everything seamlessly through a WhatsApp group chat. This meant we could enjoy the moment without worrying about logistics. Access to Luxury Flights High Class Travel specializes in securing competitive rates on business and first-class flights, even for travelers looking to use points. Getting the business class experience on both La Compagnie to Paris and Air France back home was something we wouldn’t have wanted to miss. Concierge Services for Every Need From finding the best restaurants to arranging on-the-ground excursions, the agency’s concierge services went above and beyond. Their local connections ensured we were well taken care of and could navigate each destination with confidence. A Welcoming Network for Independent Agents Our travel agency works with independent agents who share their commitment to luxury and personalized service. This network means that more travelers can benefit from the agency’s expertise and connections, with agents who have the resources to make each trip extraordinary. Our trip to France was unforgettable, thanks to the expertise, connections and dedicated service of our travel agent. With luxury accommodations, curated kosher options and the seamless execution of every detail, High Class Travel transformed a vacation into a truly extraordinary experience.
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Using a travel agent gives access to exclusive deals not available to the public. With competitive rates on flights, hotels, and tours, agents leverage industry relationships to secure lower prices. They also offer special amenities like room upgrades, early check-in, or complimentary services at luxury properties. Their global connections provide added perks and priority access, ensuring a smoother, more personalized travel experience for both business and leisure. Flights: Competitive Rates, Expertise, and Support When You Need It Travel agents secure competitive rates and use their industry knowledge to find the best flight options. With strong relationships with airlines, they can handle complex itineraries and offer quick solutions during flight interruptions or last-minute changes. Having a travel agent ensures personalized support and peace of mind when unexpected disruptions arise. Top 5 Hotel Recommendations Paris: 1. Ritz Paris 2. Plaza Athenee 3. Cheval Blanc 4. Hotel De Crillon 5. The Peninsula Paris Cannes: 1. Carlton Cannes 2. Majestic Cannes 3. Martinez 4. Canopy by Hilton 5. JW Marriott Cannes
South of France Iconic Hotels: 1. Hotel Du Cap 2. Eden Roc 3. Cheval Blanc St Tropez 4. Chateaux de la Mesardiere 5. Four Seasons Cap Ferrat
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An OriginalSeries
EPISODE 1: MEET THE BASCHS - THE JOURNEY BEGINS
e l p u Co s h c Bas OF
Get ready for adventure with the all new show, Couple of Baschs! Follow this dynamic, fun-loving couple as they take on the ultimate DIY challenge— transforming a regular minibus into a home-on-wheels for unforgettable family road trips. With plenty of personality, humor, and creative problem-solving, they turn every step of the rehab process into an exciting journey. Whether you’re into DIY projects, family adventures, or just love a good transformation story, this show will inspire you to dream big and hit the road with your crew!
Are you ready to come along for the ride?
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Getting to Paris is convenient and accessible from almost anywhere in the world. Paris is served by two major international airports: Charles de Gaulle (CDG) and Orly (ORY). Charles de Gaulle is the larger of the two and handles most long-haul international flights, while Orly is more common for European and domestic routes. From either airport, travelers can easily reach the city center using various modes of transport. The RER B train offers direct service to central Paris or you can opt for a taxi or an airport shuttle service. If arriving by train from another European city, Paris' Gare du Nord and Gare de Lyon stations are well-connected via high-speed trains such as the Eurostar and TGV, making the city accessible in just a few hours from cities like London, Brussels and Amsterdam.
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Once in Paris, getting around the city is a breeze,medit thankse r toranean its s p a ipublic n extensive transportation system. The Paris Metro is one of s ea the easiest and most efficient ways to navigate the city, with 16 lines that cover all major attractions and neighborhoods. Visitors can purchase single tickets or opt for multi-day passes like the Paris Visite Pass, which offers unlimited rides on the Metro, buses and RER trains within the city. For a more scenic experience, the Batobus offers riverboat transport along the Seine, stopping at key landmarks like the Eiffel Tower and Notre-Dame. For those who prefer walking, Paris is a highly pedestrian-friendly city, with many iconic sights within a short stroll from one another. Paris is notorious for its heavy traffic, especially during peak hours, so driving or taking a taxi can often be time-consuming. It's best to rely on public transportation or walking to avoid the congestion and fully enjoy the city's charm without delays.
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Once in Paris, getting around the city is a breeze, thanks to its extensive public transportation system. Luxury in the Skies with La Compagnie: An Only Business Class Flight When planning our trip, our travel agent Joseph Singer (CEO of High Class Travel) recommended we try La Compagnie for comfort and for the experience. Since they knew we were producing an upcoming France issue, they recommended traveling via this unique airline so that we can share the experience with our readers. La Compagnie is a business class airline that flies between Newark to Nice, Paris and Milan. It was an incredible experience. We started our journey at Newark Airport, where we had access to a private lounge that included a shower — a perfect way to freshen up before the flight. The terminal was super quiet, with a calm and relaxed atmosphere that immediately set the tone for the trip. When it was time to board, the process was incredibly chill — there was no rushing, no crowds, and the process overall was just smooth and stressfree. Once on board, the cabin felt almost like we were flying in a private jet. With only about 70 seats, there was plenty of space and peace. The flight was so quiet and relaxing, and the service was attentive without being overwhelming. We could fully stretch out in our reclining seats, making it easy to sleep or relax. They offered kosher meals and drinks throughout the flight. From the calm lounge to the quiet flight, everything about the journey felt special, like we were being pampered all the way to Paris. It was truly a seamless and relaxing way to start our adventure. For more information on booking with La Compagnie, visit lacompagnie.com.
Source: La Compagnie
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J E W I S H H I S T O RY Paris’ Jewish history is long and deeply intertwined with the broader history of France, marked by periods of both flourishing and persecution. Jewish settlement in Paris dates back to at least the Roman era, with evidence of a community in the city as early as the 6th century. Jewish communities in those early centuries could be found in what is now the 5th arrondissement, in an area just south of Notre-Dame near where the Church of St-Julien-le-Pauvre now stands. Evidence suggests that a synagogue once stood on the same site. However, during the Middle Ages, Jews in Paris faced repeated waves of expulsion and persecution, notably under King Philip IV in 1306. After being allowed back into France in the late 14th century, Jews again found themselves subject to various restrictions, and by the late Middle Ages, Jewish life in Paris had almost disappeared. Parts of northern and southern France today were independent of King Philip’s rule and many Jews fled there, amongst other countries. By the 18th century, with the onset of the Enlightenment and the eventual French Revolution,
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Today, Paris is home to the largest Jewish population in Europe, with a wide range of synagogues, schools, cultural institutions and kosher establishments. the situation for Jews in Paris began to improve. In 1791, the French Revolution granted Jews full citizenship, making France the first country in Europe to do so. This led to the growth of a thriving Jewish community, particularly in Paris. Throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries, Jewish immigrants from Eastern Europe and North Africa settled in the city, contributing to the rich cultural and religious diversity of Parisian Jewry. The Belleville and Marais districts became centers of Jewish life. World War II brought a dark period in Parisian Jewish history. During the Nazi occupation, tens of thousands of Jews were rounded up, including during the infamous 1942 Vel' d'Hiv Roundup, and many were deported to concentration camps. After the war, survivors rebuilt their community, and the influx of Jews from North Africa, particularly after decolonization, added to the vibrant post-war Jewish community in Paris. Today, Paris is home to the largest Jewish population in Europe, with a
wide range of synagogues, schools, cultural institutions and kosher establishments reflecting the city's rich Jewish heritage. Despite this vibrancy, Jews in Paris have faced increasing security concerns in the 21st century. A rise in anti-Semitic incidents, particularly since the 2000s, has created a sense of unease. Events such as the 2012 Toulouse shootings and the 2015 Hyper Cacher kosher supermarket attack, part of a broader wave of Islamist terrorist attacks in France, have deeply impacted the community. Many synagogues, schools and Jewish centers now require heightened security measures. These challenges have led thousands of French Jews to emigrate to Israel or other countries, though many remain committed to maintaining Jewish life in Paris, working closely with the government to address anti-Semitism and preserve their presence in the city.
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Originating from the French countryside, this delightful hors d’oeuvre combines creamy brie cheese with a crusty baguette, fresh herbs, and crisp apples for a bite that’s a symphony of flavor. Recipe by Sylvia Fallas
Bordeaux: Everything You Need to Know Did you know Bordeaux is a region in France, not a grape? Dive into Bordeaux’s rich history to discover how it became renowned for high-end wines. Uncorked with Erik Segelbaum
Tuna Niçoise Salad Niçoise is a classic salad from Nice, traditionally made with tomatoes, hard-boiled eggs, Niçoise olives, and anchovies or tuna, dressed with olive oil or sometimes vinaigrette. Recipe by Adina Schlass
French Onion Tomato Soup French onion soup, a beloved French classic since the 18th century, is made with caramelized onions, topped with toasted baguette and melted cheese. Once a staple due to the affordability and availability of onions, it remains a comforting favorite.
Bœuf Bourguignon A classic of French cuisine, this rich beef braise is the perfect dish for a cozy fall night, offering warmth and comfort in every bite. Recipe by Eran Marom
Brie, Bourguignon Bordeaux, —Bonjour! Bienvenue and welcome to Kosher.com’s curated journey through French culinary bliss. With classic recipes, expertly paired wines, and fresh new episodes, you’ll Triumph over the weeknight dinner rut and bring the elegance of French cooking straight to your table. So, pour a glass, indulge in something exquisite, and savor the art of French dining —all from the comfort of home. Only on Kosher.com. Bon Appétit!
Heart.Works
French Brie Sandwich
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W H AT T O D O There are endless possibilities when visiting Paris. When deciding on an itinerary anywhere, always consider what you enjoy most in general and what you are looking to get out of your time there. There is also tremendous value in walking around the city to explore and get a real feel for the culture. While walking around the 17th arrondissement from one restaurant to another, we stumbled upon the most glorious park, which we later found out is called Promenade Pereire. It wasn’t on our official list, but ended up being a real treat.
Visit a Classic Landmark Climb or take the elevator to the top of the Eiffel Tower for stunning views of the city. Explore the Louvre, home to thousands of works of art, including the iconic Mona Lisa. Shop at Carrousel du Louvre, an underground shopping mall in Paris. The name refers to two nearby sites, the Louvre museum and the Place du Carrousel.
Explore History Peruse the trendy boutiques, art galleries and historic Jewish sites in the charming neighborhood of Le Marais. See more below.
Stroll down the Champs-Élysées, the famous avenue that leads to the Arc de Triomphe.
Relax in the beautiful gardens of Jardin du Luxembourg, a favorite spot for both locals and tourists.
Take a boat cruise on the Seine River. Enjoy the city's landmarks from the water, including Notre-Dame and the Musée d'Orsay.
Tour the Palace of Versailles. Just outside Paris, this grand palace is a must-see for its stunning architecture and gardens.
Explore Galeries Lafayette, an iconic department store for luxury shopping, unique French fashion and a rooftop terrace with breathtaking views of Paris.
Visit Musée d'Orsay, where you can admire the vast collection of Impressionist and post-Impressionist art housed in a former train station.
Place Vendôme is one of Paris's most iconic and elegant squares, located in the 1st arrondissement near the Tuileries Garden and the Louvre. Known for its classical architecture and luxurious atmosphere, the square is home to
Walk around Marché des Enfants Rouges, Paris' oldest covered market in the Marais district that offers a variety of food stalls and local produce. Keep in mind that it’s closed on Mondays.
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high-end jewelers, designer boutiques, and the prestigious Ritz Paris hotel. At its center stands the Vendôme Column, originally erected by Napoleon to commemorate the Battle of Austerlitz. The column is topped with a statue of Napoleon dressed as a Roman emperor, symbolizing his military victories.
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Boats ready for tourists line the Seine river
TIPS FOR VISITING THE EIFFEL TOWER:
Take a Sidecar Tour One of the highlights of planning a trip with a travel agent team is experiencing things we wouldn’t have considered on our own. High-Class Travel incorporated some truly outof-the-box experiences that took us out of our food-focused comfort zone. One such adventure was a nighttime sidecar tour. Our guide provided blankets and helmets, making it a fun and cozy experience. It was a phenomenal way to see Paris’s iconic landmarks, including the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre and the Champs-Élysées, all lit up at night. A truly unique experience!
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Purchase Tickets Ahead of Time: To avoid lengthy waits, buy tickets online in advance. This way, you can skip the ticket queue and go straight to the entrance.
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Select Your Route: You can reach the Eiffel Tower by either taking the stairs or the elevators. While using the stairs is a more budget-friendly option, it involves around 700 steps to the second floor and can be quite strenuous. Elevators, on the other hand, provide a quicker and more comfortable ascent, particularly if you're aiming for the summit.
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Optimal Visiting Times: For breathtaking views, try to visit early in the morning or later in the evening. The tower is especially enchanting at night when it's illuminated.
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Enjoy the Surroundings: Spend some time exploring the gardens at the base of the tower. It's a beautiful area for a picnic or for simply unwinding.
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Utilize the App: Download the official Eiffel Tower app for an audio tour and detailed information about the tower's history, available in various languages.
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Visit During Less Busy Times: If you can, plan your visit on weekdays or avoid major holidays to experience fewer crowds.
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Dress for Comfort: Wear comfortable footwear, especially if you intend to take the stairs, and dress in layers since it can get windy at higher altitudes.
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Enjoy Kosher Pastries Nearby: Le XXV’s location in the 16th arrondissement is a five-minute walk to the Trocadero Gardens, which is a park that faces the Eiffel Tower. The Reserve, another pastry shop, is a sevenminute walk to the gardens. Grab a croissant and latte and picnic in the park facing the Eiffel Tower for the perfect start to the day.
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LE MARAIS Le Marais, which means "the swamp" in French, was once an actual marshland where Jews sought refuge during the Middle Ages, particularly after being expelled from other areas of France. By the 18th century, the neighborhood transformed as private mansions originally built for the aristocracy were divided into small apartments after the French Revolution. Le Marais, often referred to as the Pletzel, is the historic Jewish quarter of Paris. The name “Pletzel” derives from the Yiddish term for “little place” and reflects the area’s rich Jewish heritage. Historically, it served as a vibrant community for Jews, especially during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when many Eastern European Jews settled there. Today, these historic apartments are among the most coveted and expensive real estate in the world, thanks to the area's rich cultural heritage and architectural charm. Le Marais is also one of the safest and most desirable places
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to live in Europe, attracting both locals and international residents with its blend of history, fashion and vibrant Jewish culture. The Mémorial de la Shoah is the Holocaust museum in Paris, located in the historic Marais district. Opened in 2005, it serves as a memorial and educational center dedicated to remembering the Holocaust and the persecution of Jews during World War II. The museum features extensive archives, exhibitions and memorials, including the Wall of Names, which lists the names of 76,000 French Jews deported to Nazi concentration camps. In addition to permanent exhibitions
Wall of Names at teh Memorial de la Shoah
detailing the history of the Holocaust, the Mémorial de la Shoah offers rotating exhibits, film screenings and educational programs. It’s a deeply moving place to reflect on the tragedies of the past, while also recognizing the resilience of those who survived. The museum is an essential visit for anyone wanting to understand France’s role during the Holocaust and to pay tribute to the victims.
A Day in Le Marais Start off at a bakery like Boulangerie Murciano. Then stroll through Marché des Enfants Rouges, followed by the Mémorial de la Shoah. Have lunch at L'As du Fallafel, Kosher Pizza or Korcaz. Get some chocolate from Damyel for gifts, then stroll the Pletzel. Have some deli from Chlew for dinner.
The Grand Synagogue of Paris is a tenminute drive from Le Marais and has been around since 1875. The synagogue offers organized tours that provide a glimpse into the stunning architecture and rich Jewish history of Paris. Email infos@ lavictoire.org to to book a tour or Shabbat meal.
Shlomo Klein with Rabbi Moshe Sebbag, Chief Rabbi of the Grand Synagogue of Paris NOVEMBER 2024 Fleishigs
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W H E R E T O S TAY Paris is divided into 20 administrative districts called arrondissements, which spiral out from the city center in a clockwise direction, like a snail’s shell. Each arrondissement has its own unique character and number, with the 1st arrondissement being the historic heart of Paris, home to landmarks like the Louvre and Palais Royal. As you move outward, each arrondissement has its own charm, from the trendy and artsy Le Marais (3rd and 4th arrondissements) to the Bohemian Montmartre in the 18th. These arrondissements are often referred to by their number, such as “the 5th” or “the 16th” and each one is further broken down into smaller neighborhoods, or quarters, which add even more local flavor. While the city as a whole maintains its iconic Parisian charm, exploring different arrondissements lets you experience a variety of atmospheres, from the bustling, tourist-filled areas to quiet, residential corners filled with local cafés and markets. To decide where to stay, consider your top activities and choose a hotel that is going to be closest to the main activities you are interested in. As traffic is tough, you want to minimize time wasted driving around the city. The 1st arrondissement is jam-packed with famous luxury hotels (Ritz Paris, Grand Hyatt Vendome, Hotel de Crillon), many of which accept credit card points. We spoke to Jay and Rachel, luxury hotel advisors and concierges at High Class Travel, who recommended the Park Hyatt Paris Vendôme in the 1st arrondissement. We love a luxurious hotel experience and this was a perfect spot. The service was phenomenal and the manager even mentioned the ability to source kosher food upon request. One thing to note about Paris hotels is that the basic rooms in most are quite small. If size is important to you, make sure to review the square footage of the room before booking. On a previous trip, we stayed at the recently renovated Renaissance Paris Arc de Triomphe Hotel in the 17th arrondissement and used Marriott points for booking. We loved the room size and location; it was in walking distance to the Arc de Triomphe and subway stations. For the kosher traveler, we love the 16th and 17th arrondissements. Both are centrally located in walkable distance to the Eiffel Tower and kosher restaurants. For Shabbat, many shuls offer meals when booked in advance (check chabad.org for more information on Paris Chabad houses). We also visited the Grand Synagogue of Paris, where Rabbi Sebbag offers a monthly student Shabbat with classes and meals.
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Place Vendôme in the 1st arrondissement is situated near iconic landmarks like the Louvre Museum and the Palais Garnier.
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W H E R E T O E AT Paris is home to over 200 kosher restaurants, making it a vibrant city for kosher dining. The variety is impressive, offering options that span global cuisines, including French, Israeli, Japanese, Chinese and Italian. While kosher establishments are spread throughout the city, certain areas are more densely populated with these eateries. For instance, the Marais district (4th arrondissement) is renowned for its Jewish history and has several kosher spots, especially along Rue des Rosiers. Other key neighborhoods include the 17th and 19th arrondissements, where you'll find many kosher cafés, restaurants and bakeries. NOTES: 1. If a restaurant isn’t listed here, it has no negative reflection on the restaurant. It’s a simple matter of time and space. 2. Please consult your local Rabbi regarding hashgacha, as standards vary internationally and certifications may change. We cannot take responsibility for the hashgacha of the restaurants featured.
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Chlew is a popular kosher deli with a few locations throughout Paris known for its authentic flavors and hearty portions. It’s like a New York-style deli meets Parisian ingredients and techniques. It’s the perfect place to grab sandwiches before heading out on a day trip or to the airport. We love that you can get a packed sandwich for only 15 euro. Another popular deli spot with a similar concept is Alfi.
Safrane is a renowned kosher Indian restaurant located in the 17th arrondissement, celebrated for its elegant ambiance and authentic cuisine. We loved the array of dishes available and authentic (yet slightly pared down) Indian flavors. See Restaurant Chronicles (page 100) for a few recreations of the dishes we enjoyed at Safrane.
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TUNISIAN FOOD The story of Tunisian Jewish history in Paris is deeply connected to broader themes of immigration and cultural exchange. Beginning in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, many Tunisian Jews migrated to France to escape economic difficulties and political unrest in their homeland, particularly following the establishment of the French protectorate in 1881. This influx grew significantly after World War II, as Jews sought safety from escalating anti-Semitism after the Israeli War of Independence in 1948 and the horrors of the Holocaust. Nini is super unique. A table full of various cold salads were already placed before we even entered (and we didn’t have a reservation!). This is where the locals come for authentic Tunisian food in a finer dining atmosphere. We enjoyed lamb, couscous and authentic North African-style fried fish. We chatted with locals and couldn’t be more grateful for the flight delay that allowed us to have the time to try this spot. Le Jardines de Belvedere is a typical Parisian deli/takeout spot that offers a combination of Tunisian and Frenchstyle dishes sold by the pound, as well as assorted charcuterie ready to go or stuffed into sandwiches that can be customized to order. We enjoyed an authentic flavorpacked fish couscous and took a stuffed deli panini to go. This is a real local spot that is likely not on a tourist’s list, but is so worth trying. You can take food to go or dine in-house. Located in Belleville, Rene et Gabin is a family-run spot that is a must-try for anyone interested in authentic Tunisian cuisine. The menu features a variety of sandwiches, fricassés and traditional dishes, all served in a warm, homey atmosphere. While Belleville is slightly removed from central Paris, it has a rich Jewish history, attracting Polish Jewish immigrants in the early 1900s and Tunisian immigrants in the 1950s. In recent years, with an influx of migrants and Jews making aliyah, Belleville has lost a lot of Jews, but Rene et Gabin is still standing. Parc de Belleville is a five-minute walk from Rene et Gabin. It’s a popular hilltop park in the area with stunning views of Paris — a great place to relax and enjoy the local vibe. This park embodies the true spirit of the neighborhood, which has a rich mix of cultures. NOVEMBER 2024 Fleishigs
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PASTRY Le XXV is an iconic pastry shop that has been around for quite a number of years. They offer authentic French pastries in locations throughout Paris. The croissants are light and airy, the canales are as authentic as can be and the French apple pastries, pan suisse and brioche are classic and consistent. The Reserve is easily the best kosher pastry shop we’ve ever visited. The array of authentic French pastries is on another level. The flan, croissants and variety of eclairs and authentic French breads makes this spot a must visit. They also offer sandwiches, soups, cheese plates and salads.
The canelé and apple pastry at Le XXV: a standout pairing of flavors
Korcaz has pastries, coffee, breads and sandwiches in an old-fashioned bakery with sidewalk tables. We enjoyed an incredible cheese-stuffed pita-style bread that was fabulous. We also loved the historical feel of this spot. Korcaz offers a combination of dairy and nondairy pastries and focuses on traditional Ashkenazi pastries and Tunisian pastries with a French twist. A timeless counter-serve spot, Boulangerie Murciano offers a refined selection of delicate French and Ashkenazi pastries, complemented by artisanal bread and freshly brewed coffee. They also serve poppy seed cake, meringues, apple strudel and challah with North African specialities like Debla, a fried dough soaked in honey syrup.
CHOCOLATES Damyel is one of the shops that helped make chocolate so renowned in France. To the surprise of many, all Damyel chocolates are pareve, made with exceptionally high-quality ingredients. Damyel offers a variety of flavored truffles as well as the delicacy marron glacé, a candied chestnut treat. Jeym, a newer kosher chocolate shop, has also gained a strong reputation for excellence. What is unique about these shops is how elegant they are. You feel transported to a highend boutique but instead of handbags and shoes and the aroma of leather, you are greeted by confections and the aroma of chocolate.
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A remarkable selection of pastries at The Reserve that redefines indulgence NOVEMBER 2024 Fleishigs
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MEAT Down the block from Jeym and amongst a large number of kosher restaurants is Bassar, one of the most popular bistros in Paris. We enjoyed a fabulous late lunch with a starter of smoky mac and “cheese” (so good that we recreated it on page 108) and a unique take on veal carpaccio. We ordered steak frites and the best non-dairy crème brûlée we’ve ever had to finish the meal. Beyond the food, we loved sitting by the window in a residential Parisian neighborhood. NOTE: The steak in Paris is leaner than American steak, so steaks are generally not as tender as what the American palate may be used to.
FALAFEL L'As du Fallafel has to be one of the most famous falafel shops in the world. The line is always long, but they have a great system for ordering to-go. Because they are so busy and are always churning out food, the food is beyond fresh. The salad components are crisp, the falafel is hot off the oil and the pita soft and fluffy. While you can undoubtedly get even better falafel in Israel, the quality, price and iconic status makes this a muststop on a trip to Paris.
DAIRY Centered around a pizza oven, Flavio is a tiny spot that packs a lot of flavor and personality. It feels at once rustic, Parisian hip and cool. The pizza was incredible. We also loved the ovenfried eggplant bake, which was a lighter version of the classic eggplant Parmesan.
Savory pressed sandwiches at Chlew
The Italian food at Rosetta Trattoria was better than the Italian food we had in Italy. Everything was really spot on and the vibes and design even more so. The neapolitan pizza, burrata with roasted vegetables, pastas and tiramisu dessert are all incredible. We also loved the warm chocolate sauce poured over choux pastry stuffed with ice cream. A real treat! Kosher Pizza has been around for decades in the heart of Le Marais. This spot offers super thin crust pies with a sweet tomato sauce, a classic cheese blend, a unique spice mix and olive oil drizzled over top. We loved the thin, crisp, cracker-like pies. We have a unique bond with the owner, a Chabad Jew who maintains the small Chabad shul around the corner from the shop. This shul was where the Lubavitcher Rebbe spent time during WWII before coming to the United States.
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L'As du Fallafel iconic falafel of the pletzel
Stuffed-cheese pita-style bread from Murciano bakery
Moshe Binyamin: a Pletzel legend crafting his iconic paper-thin pizza for decades NOVEMBER 2024 Fleishigs
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Flavio’s Napoli-style pizzas: gourmet flavors straight from the heart of Italy
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Le Basar Paris: savor elegant kosher bistro fare for a truly tasty experience
Other spots in the Le Basar neighborhood:
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Levallois-Perret and Boulogne-Billancourt: T WO KOS H E R- D E N S E N E I G H B O R H O O DS O U TS I D E O F PA R I S Just outside of Paris, a short drive will take you to this suburban neighborhood, home to a large and rapidly growing Jewish community. While it’s not a typical tourist destination, it boasts a vibrant collection of kosher restaurants, frequented mostly by locals. L'atelier Deli is a classic neighborhood bistro that is worth visiting if you are nearby for a classic French-style meal. It was interesting to see the North African influence on the menu, with dishes like the harissa-roasted cauliflower and sweet and savory egg rolls. We also enjoyed steak frites, steak carpaccio, braised leeks and foie gras terrine. We spent some time in BoulogneBillancourt, as it’s the neighborhood where our dear chef friend Avner Guzman lives and works as Executive Chef of Etnikahn, a high-end restaurant with an excellent selection of starters and mains. The service is friendly and the portions are generous. Etnikahn is the ideal place to come and enjoy classic French food. Chef Avner Guzman is a Le Cordon Bleutrained chef who combines his French training with flavors of Israeli and South American cuisine. The classic dishes like steak carpaccio, steak frites, burgers and tartare are done to perfection. There is also a nice array of pareve desserts to choose from. What is even more standout at Etnikahn is getting a behind-the-scenes look at how the kitchen runs. The sign of a solid executive chef is watching a kitchen run in a calm, organized manner and this one was especially impressive.
Chef Avner Guzman at Etnikahn is a Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef who combines his French training with flavors of Israeli and South American cuisine.
Boulogne-Billancourt is also home to a larger and more visually striking second location of The Reserve. Every time we visit, we can’t resist ordering their vanilla flan — it’s simply irresistible! 76
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We enjoyed steak frites, steak carpaccio, braised leeks and foie gras terrine at L'atelier Deli.
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Strasbourg, located in northeastern France, is known for its rich history, stunning architecture and vibrant culture. As the capital of the Alsace region, it boasts a unique blend of French and German influences, evident in its cuisine, dialect and customs. The city is also home to the European Parliament, highlighting its importance as a political and administrative center in Europe. Strasbourg's historic district, known as La Petite France, is a UNESCO World Heritage site, characterized by its picturesque half-timbered houses and canals, making it a favorite spot for visitors. Additionally, Strasbourg hosts various cultural events and festivals throughout the year, celebrating its diverse heritage.
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Getting to Strasbourg is relatively straightforward, with several transportation options available: By Train: Strasbourg is well-connected by rail, making it easily accessible from major cities in France and neighboring countries. The high-speed TGV train operates from Paris, with a journey time of about 2 hours. Additionally, international trains, including TGV and ICE services, connect Strasbourg to cities like Frankfurt, Stuttgart and Basel.
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By Plane: Strasbourg International Airport is about six miles from the city center and offers both domestic and international flights. From the airport, you can take a taxi or shuttle service to reach the city. Alternatively, you can fly into nearby airports, such as EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg, then take a train or bus to Strasbourg. By Car: Strasbourg is located at the intersection of major highways A35 and A4 and is easily accessible by car. The drive from Paris is about 5 hours. Parking in the city can be challenging, so it’s best to research parking options in advance. Public Transport: Once in the city, Strasbourg has an efficient public transport system, including trams and buses, making it easy to navigate the city and explore its attractions. 78
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Replica of the Statue of Liberty in the town of Colmar, in the Alsace region of France, the birthplace of French sculptor and painter Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi. Bartholdi is best known for designing Liberty Enlightening the World, commonly known as the Statue of Liberty.
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W H AT T O D O Strasbourg is a quiet city, so walking at night (after 9:00 PM) was almost eerie, especially compared to Paris, but the daytime is typically bustling. In the downtown area, there are shops, an outdoor vintage market and book vendors that we enjoyed perusing. La Petite France is a picturesque, historic quarter with half-timbered houses lining the canals. You can also take a boat tour to experience the charm of the city from the water. Walk along the Covered Bridges (Ponts Couverts). These medieval bridges, once covered with wooden roofs, are perfect for a scenic stroll. They offer lovely views of the Ill River and the city’s fortifications. The Alsatian Museum (Musée Alsacien) is for history lovers and the Strasbourg Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art is perfect for art lovers. The Palais Rohan is an 18th-century palace, which houses three museums: the Museum of Fine Arts, the Museum of Decorative Arts and the Archaeological Museum. Strasbourg is home to the European Parliament. You can take a guided tour of the building and learn about the workings of the European Union. The Council of Europe and the European Court of Human Rights are also headquartered here, making Strasbourg a hub of European diplomacy. Parc de l’Orangerie is a beautiful park located near the European Parliament, perfect for a relaxing afternoon. The park features a lake, mini zoo and a lovely pavilion. Take a boat tour on the Ill River to see Strasbourg’s landmarks from a different perspective, including the old town and the European Parliament buildings. Visit the Vauban Dam (Barrage Vauban), a 17th-century structure built as a defensive fortification. You can walk along its rooftop terrace for another great view of the city and its waterways. Strasbourg is close to charming villages like Colmar, Riquewihr and Obernai, each offering picturesque streets, beautiful vineyards and a chance to experience Alsace's rural beauty. Koenig is a kosher winery located about a 30-minute drive from Strasbourg and offers group tours.
Segway Tour: La Petite France When you don’t have a lot of time in a city, an organized guided tour is a great way to get tons of information and a glimpse into a new culture in a way that would be impossible on your own. Since we only had one day in Strasbourg, High Class Travel recommended a segway tour of Le Petite France, a landmark in Strasbourg. The segways were an incredibly unique way to tour this iconic destination. La Petite France is a picturesque and historic district in the heart of Strasbourg, France, known for its charming medieval architecture, cobbled streets and scenic canals. It’s one of the most popular and iconic areas in the city, often recognized for its timber-framed houses that date back to the 16th century. The area was historically the home of fishermen, tanners and millers; it still retains a quaint, old-world charm. We woke up early and met the group in the center of La Petite France. The Segway tour was a fascinating way to learn about the history of Strasbourg, while exploring one of the city's most charming neighborhoods. As we glided through the narrow cobblestone streets and along the canals, we were captivated by the stunning halftimbered houses and rich history of the area. We passed picturesque canals where the reflections of the traditional houses danced in the water, and we marveled at the beautiful covered bridges and iconic landmarks. The guide shared stories about the district’s origins as a home for fishermen and tanners, giving us a deeper appreciation of its charm. It was also a great opportunity to meet new people, all of us bonding over the shared experience of discovering the beauty of La Petite France. The guide's insights and the relaxed segway ride made this tour a perfect way to start the day.
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The recently renovated Maison Rouge Strasbourg Hotel & Spa, part of the MGallery Collection, offers a refined blend of historic charm and modern luxury in the heart of Strasbourg. Located on Place Kléber, one of Strasbourg’s main squares, the hotel is just a short walk from the picturesque Petite France district and Strasbourg Cathedral, so there is easy access to the city’s iconic sites and plenty of shopping. Looking for a budget-friendly option? Ibis Budget Strasbourg Centre Republique, located right near the Synagogue de la Paix, offers budget-friendly accommodations with easy access to the city center. Ibis is a popular hotel chain known for offering affordable, comfortable accommodations with a focus on convenience and accessibility. Part of the Accor group, Ibis hotels are often centrally located and provide essential amenities, making them a reliable choice for budget-conscious travelers around the world.
Maison Rouge Strasbourg Hotel & Spa offers a refined blend of historic charm and modern luxury.
The Jewish presence in Strasbourg dates back to the Middle Ages, though the community was expelled in 1349 following the Black Death, which led to widespread anti-Semitic violence across Europe. Jews only began to resettle in the city centuries later, and by the 18th century, the community was thriving. It continued to grow throughout the 19th and 20th centuries, particularly after Jewish emancipation following the French Revolution. However, World War II brought devastation, as the city was annexed by Nazi Germany. Many Jews were deported or fled, but after the war, survivors returned to rebuild their community. Today, Strasbourg is home to one of France’s largest Jewish communities, numbering about 15,000 members. The community is diverse, with synagogues like the Grande Synagogue de la Paix, built in the 1950s after its predecessor was destroyed by the Nazis. Smaller synagogues across the city serve Sephardic, Ashkenazi and Chabad communities. The city also has Jewish institutions like École Aquiba, a Jewish day school, and a yeshiva for advanced Torah study. Various cultural and religious organizations enrich Jewish life, while kosher butchers, bakeries and grocery stores serve the local population. Strasbourg’s Jewish heritage is preserved through institutions like the Musée Judéo-Alsacien in nearby Bouxwiller, which tells the story of Jewish life in the region. Chabad plays an active role in the community, offering religious services, education and outreach to students and travelers. The city’s vibrant Jewish life, cultural institutions and synagogues make Strasbourg a central hub for Jewish tradition and culture in the Alsace region.
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W H E R E T O E AT The kosher restaurants in Strasbourg are centrally located near most attractions and a 15-20 minute walk to many of the downtown hotels. Walking the streets gives you a beautiful feel for the town. We loved Empire Steak Building and their homemade pretzel rolls that are native to the area, the New York-inspired decor and friendly service. Empire is a great spot to come to for a filling, inexpensive meal. We loved the steak sandwich, which had freshly grilled chunks of steak on their signature bread. The fries were also spot on. Café de la Paix is a light café with readyto-go sandwiches, salads, poke bowls, quiches, hot pastas and pizzas, as well as a selection of classic French pastries. It’s a great spot for a morning coffee or midday brunch or lunch. Another dairy spot in Strasbourg that was our personal favorite was La Fabrique a Miam. The potato gratin, brie salad and crème brûlée were excellent. Even better was their own version of pizza that Strasbourg is famous for — Alsatian tarte flambée aka flammekueche (flamed cake), often sold on the streets of Strasbourg. It’s a thin, crispy pizza that traditionally has no tomatoes, rather utilizes cream or crème fraîche as the base. Boulangerie Hanau is a wonderful bakery with two locations in Strasbourg, where we enjoyed some classic French pastries. We were also introduced to some Alsatian-style cookies that inspired the delicious chocolate tart on page 128.
Alsatian tarte flambée at Le Fabrique Miam
Shop at Espace Cacher, the local grocery store that has a full line of everything you may need, from yogurts and milk to cold cuts, canned goods, bread and more! Autre Part is another dairy restaurant that serves pasta, flammekuche, salads and fish dishes. Aux Mille Saveurs offers Shabbat takeaway, challah and pastries all week. Baba Ganoush serves buffet-style falafel, shawarma and fresh Israeli salads. Restaurant Le B serves a wide variety and style of dishes, mostly with Asian influences.
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Tiramisu, crème brûlée, and hot lattes with shortbread at La Fabrique Miam
The kosher restaurants in Strasbourg are centrally located near most attractions and a 15-20 minute walk to many of the downtown hotels. Walking the streets gives you a beautiful feel for the town.
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he French m e d ite r r an eRiviera, an or Côte d'Azur, is a stunning stretch of coastline along the southeastern coast of France, renowned e abreathtaking landscapes, glamorous resorts and rich forsits cultural heritage. From the azure waters of the Mediterranean to the sun-drenched beaches and charming villages, this region attracts travelers seeking both relaxation and adventure. With its vibrant cities like Nice, Cannes and Monaco, the French Riviera offers a perfect blend of sophistication and laid-back charm. Visitors can explore art-filled museums or wander through picturesque markets, all while soaking in the captivating beauty that has inspired artists and celebrities for generations.
View of main avenue in Nice
The French Riviera has a completely different vibe than most beach vacations offered in Miami, Cancun or the Caribbean. It’s charming and full of culture, yet not as expansive, so keep that in mind. The beaches start off pebbly and become more sandy as you drive up the coast. Beaches in Nice are pebbly, while Cannes beaches are sandy. Beyond the beaches, however, there is a lot to do.
Epic views in takeoff and landing in Nice
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The city of Cannes with its famous croisette and marina
GETTING THERE By Air: Nice Côte d'Azur Airport (NCE) is the main international airport serving the French Riviera. It has connections to major cities across Europe and beyond. From the airport, you can easily reach other Riviera towns via public transport, taxis or rental cars. For nearby destinations, you might also consider flying into airports in Cannes, Monaco or Toulon. By Train: The French Riviera is well-connected by train, with regular services from major cities like Paris, Marseille and Lyon. The SNCF operates high-speed TGV trains, which can take you directly to Nice, Cannes, Antibes and other coastal towns. The scenic train journey along the Mediterranean coast offers stunning views, making it a popular choice for travelers. By Car: Driving to the French Riviera gives you the flexibility to explore at your own pace. The region is accessible via the A8 motorway, which runs along the coast and connects major cities like Nice, Cannes and Monaco. Be prepared for traffic during peak tourist seasons and consider parking options in each town, as they can vary. By Bus: Long-distance buses operate between the French Riviera and other cities in France and Europe. Companies like FlixBus and Eurolines offer affordable options for reaching the region. By Boat: If you’re arriving from nearby Mediterranean destinations, consider taking a ferry or yacht to the French Riviera. Many companies offer services connecting cities like Corsica, Sardinia and other parts of Italy, providing a scenic and enjoyable way to reach the coast. Local Transportation: Once you arrive in the French Riviera, you can easily navigate the region using local transportation options such as buses, trams and taxis. Many towns are also pedestrian-friendly, making it easy to explore on foot.
SHABBAT Spending Shabbat in the South of France is a beautiful and peaceful experience. You can spend the day walking, relaxing and attending davening services at the local shuls. During the tourist season, many Chabad houses in the area offer Shabbat meals, but be sure to book in advance. For a full list of Chabad houses in the South of France, visit chabad.org. If you're traveling during the winter months, it's a good idea to email the Chabad houses ahead of time to inquire about their Shabbat meal options. For Shabbat travel, working with High Class Travel can be a game-changer. They have an exclusive network of kosher hotels and options, handling all your Shabbat needs. When we visited Nice in the off-season and some options were unavailable, High Class Travel ensured everything was arranged for a smooth and enjoyable Shabbat experience. We had the privilege of experiencing a Shabbat meal at the home of Rabbi and Rebbetzin Pinson, Chabad shluchim to Nice for decades. It was an incredibly special and inspiring experience, filled with warmth and meaning. We would like to take this opportunity to publicly express our deepest gratitude for their exceptional hospitality and kindness. It was a Shabbat we will always remember!
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Nice: Hyatt Regency Nice Palais de la Méditerranée The Hyatt Regency Nice Palais de la Méditerranée is a luxurious beachfront hotel located on the famous Promenade des Anglais in Nice. Offering stunning views of the Mediterranean, the hotel blends Art Deco elegance with modern amenities. Guests can enjoy spacious rooms, an outdoor pool and exquisite dining options, all within walking distance of the city's key attractions. Its prime location and world-class service make it a perfect base for exploring the French Riviera. We loved this hotel for its large rooms (not typical for France) and its high value. You can book using Hyatt points as well. It was a fifteen-minute walk to the local Chabad house and kosher restaurants (six minutes to Bozen). 86
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Happy Chanukah May this Chanukah spread joy and light to your family and Israel. !חג שמח elal.com
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Cannes: Hotel Barrière Le Majestic Cannes Hotel Barrière is a luxury hotel located in the heart of Cannes, renowned for its elegant accommodations and prime location along the Boulevard de la Croisette, just steps away from the famous sandy beaches and the Palais des Festivals et des Congrès, where the Cannes Film Festival takes place. The hotel offers a range of opulent rooms and suites, many of which boast stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea or the iconic Cannes skyline. The decor combines classic French elegance with modern comforts. The hotel features a luxurious spa, offering a variety of treatments and wellness programs. Guests can unwind with massages, facials and access to a fitness center. The hotel has a beautiful outdoor pool surrounded by sun loungers, as well as direct access to private beach areas, where guests can relax and soak up the sun. On the recommendation of High Class Travel, we booked a couples massage at Hotel Barriere and it was another memorable experience we enjoyed on our whirlwind of a trip. Located just a short walk from the Palais des Festivals, the hotel serves as an ideal base for attending the world-famous Cannes Film Festival. Guests can immerse themselves in the vibrant atmosphere of Cannes, with the nearby Boulevard de la Croisette lined with luxury boutiques, cafés and entertainment options. The hotel’s convenient location also allows for easy day trips to stunning destinations like Nice, Antibes and Saint-Tropez.
The hotel offers a range of opulent rooms and suites, many of which boast stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea or the iconic Cannes skyline.
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Explore the Towns and Villages Nice: Wander through the charming old town (Vieux Nice), visit the vibrant Cours Saleya market and explore the beautiful and iconic Promenade des Anglais. Antibes: Visit the Picasso Museum and explore the picturesque streets of this historic town, which is famous for its beautiful beaches and marina. Juan le Pins, a small town within Antibes, is full of kosher options too (see Where to Eat). Saint-Paul-de-Vence: This medieval village is renowned for its art galleries and stunning views. It’s a great spot for a leisurely walk and some local shopping. Here is where the well-known Jewish artist, Marc Chagall, is buried (although not in a Jewish cemetery). Menton: Known for its beautiful gardens and citrus festival, this town offers a more relaxed atmosphere and stunning seaside views. Grasse: Visit the perfume capital of the world and take a tour of the perfume factories to learn about the art of fragrance making.
Enjoy Outdoor Activities Enjoy the sun on the famous sandy beaches of Cannes, including Plage de la Croisette. Explore the scenic trails in the Esterel Mountains or around Cap Ferrat for breathtaking views of the coastline. Hike up to Castle Hill for panoramic views of Nice, the Mediterranean and the surrounding coastline. While there’s no longer a castle, the views and gardens are breathtaking; you can also spot some waterfalls. Due to its location along the water, plenty of water sport activities are available like sailing, paddle boarding and snorkeling along the beautiful coastline. You can also take a boat tour to explore the beautiful coastline, visit nearby islands like Îles de Lérins or enjoy a sunset cruise for a unique perspective of the Riviera.
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Take in the Culture Plan your visit around famous events like the Cannes Film Festival, the Monaco Grand Prix or the Nice Carnival to experience the local culture and festivities. Explore the rich artistic heritage of the region by visiting the Marc Chagall National Museum in Nice, the Musée Picasso in Antibes, and the Fondation Maeght in Saint-Paul-deVence. For a unique experience, visit the Cannes Underwater Museum. Located off the coast near the Îles de Lérins, it features submerged sculptures by British artist Jason deCaires Taylor.
Visit the Old Towns Cannes and Nice have unique old quarters that are charming and entertaining to walk through. Le Suquet is the old quarter of Cannes, offering a more historical and authentic side of the city. Climb to the top for panoramic views of Cannes, the marina and the surrounding area. Old Town (Vieux Nice) is full of charm, with markets, shops and plenty of cafés to enjoy a coffee. Don’t miss the Cours Saleya Market, where you can find fresh produce, flowers and local goods. www.fleishigs.com
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Palais des Festivals et des Congrès Home to the Cannes Film Festival, this is one of the most iconic spots in the city. Even if you’re not visiting during the festival, you can see the famous red carpet and walk in the footsteps of international celebrities. There’s also a Walk of Fame outside with handprints of famous stars.
Shopping in Cannes Cannes is a shopper’s paradise, especially if you’re into luxury brands. Rue d’Antibes is the city’s main shopping street, lined with designer boutiques, as well as more affordable options. La Croisette also offers high-end shops for those seeking luxury fashion and jewelry, reminiscent of Beverly HIlls.
If you are intrigued by this unique country and appreciate visiting new places, Monaco may be a great place to visit. You will need some extra time, so consider that before planning. Monaco is about 12 miles from Nice. The journey typically takes around 30-45 minutes by car, depending on traffic. If you prefer public transportation, you can take a train from Nice to Monaco, which is a convenient and scenic option that takes about 20 minutes. There are also buses available that connect the two locations, making it easy to visit this glamorous principality from Nice. Monaco, one of the world's smallest sovereign countries at just 2.02 square kilometers, is known for its luxury, coastal scenery, and rich heritage. The absence of income tax attracts wealth, supporting a high standard of living and safety. Renowned for its opulence, Monaco features the iconic Casino de Monte-Carlo, the Prince's Palace with daily guard ceremonies, and panoramic views of the Mediterranean. Its vibrant cultural scene, influenced by French and Italian styles, includes beautiful gardens, the Oceanographic Museum and the thrilling Monaco Grand Prix, making it a unique destination for visitors.
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Nice The sushi chain Bozen has locations throughout France. We loved the Nice location, which is modern and offers outdoor seating a few minutes walk from the beach. They offer a full sushi menu, as well as schnitzel sandwiches and burgers, making it an all-around great spot for a hearty lunch or dinner. Most unexpected here is that the tuna sushi is made with canned tuna, which was surprisingly good. Another fun menu item was the salmon sushi prepared schnitzel-style. La Makolet is the local kosher grocery store that has so many options. You can get bread, pastries, yogurts, meat, deli, canned items, cheeses, snacks and so much more. Boulangerie du Soleil is a non-kosher bakery that has a dedicated baguette oven. Like many bakeries in France, baguettes hold a high standard of baking, so select local bakeries offer pas yisrael baguettes. This location in Nice has a Shabbat observant Jew open the oven each morning, but you should inquire if the oven was lit that day. Consult your local Rabbi if this works for you. Le Kineret is a Mediterranean-inspired bakery and takeout shop.
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Cannes Oklm is a lovely local spot that has a casual-meets-French pub atmosphere. There is a selection of wine and beer along the wooden bar. We enjoyed solid burgers and fries. Dr. Sandwich is the perfect grab-and-go spot for filling sandwiches. They offer a super basic menu of sandwiches made in toasted brioche-style buns, fries, salad and drinks. Rouvi is a cozy gem celebrating Israeli street food, nestled beneath a row of houses on a quiet residential street in Cannes. The open kitchen allows you to witness all the culinary action; there’s also a small counter where you can dine. The food is incredibly fresh, featuring fluffy pita and flavorful shawarma topped with all the traditional fixings, including freshly fried eggplant — a true mark of quality. The fries are also fantastic. It's a wonderful spot to enjoy an authentic taste of Israeli cuisine.
Foie gras sushi
PRO TIP: The French Riviera’s kosher restaurant scene is seasonal. While a few places remain open yearround, many close during the offseason, so be sure to check ahead before planning your visit.
A family run establishment, Casa Bianca is a dairy Italian restaurant that offers solid pizza and pasta dishes. It’s also located across the street from the local Chabad house. A local meat sushi restaurant (similar to Bozen), Robins offers an array of freshly rolled sushi and chicken and schnitzel options and deli sandwiches which are perfect for on the go. L'Art du Pain located at 9 Rue Jean Jaurès and Maison Boutigny at 28 Boulevard Carnot are non-kosher bakeries with dedicated baguette ovens where you can buy traditional baguettes. Beof is a local supermarket and butcher shop that is great for stocking up on provisions for breakfast, lunch or dinner. NOVEMBER 2024 Fleishigs
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Juan-les-Pins Juan-les-Pins, a charming resort town adjacent to Antibes on the French Riviera, has a rich Jewish history that reflects the broader narrative of Jewish life in the region. This is the town where locals from the North come in the summertime to vacation. This town is less touristy than Cannes and Nice and has quite a few kosher options. We didn’t get to explore them all, but you will find lili Kash, a grocery store with basics, Le Carmel, a bakery, and Kozy, which has some seating and offers ice cream and light food options, as well as a handful of restaurants like Chez Jo Pizza (famous for pizza, pasta and fish dishes). Because it is a vacation town, many places are not open year-round, so call or email before arriving if you are visiting off-season. We loved the elegant atmosphere at Berbeche Azur, just steps away from the beach — a truly spectacular location. What sets it apart is the unique combination of butcher shop, wine shop and restaurant all in one. We enjoyed a delicious grilled meats platter, along with a fun, French-inspired salad featuring green beans, duck bacon and liver pâté, paired with perfectly crispy fries. To top it off, everything was well-priced, making it a fantastic dining experience.
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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK
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THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK
Château Lascombes – When Centuries of Passion Meet Tradition BY: YA E L E . G E L L E R, M P H
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n the heart of the Bordeaux region lies Château Lascombes, a glorious wine estate with a multicentennial history as rich and complex as the wines it produces. The landmark mansion, with its ivy-draped walls, has stood on the estate since the 19th century. Lascombes is a place where the past whispers through every vine and each bottle uncorks a swirl of elegance and history. In recent years, we have been fortunate to witness a boom in high-end kosher French wines. In 2015, there was a notable surge in the release of premium Second and Third Growth Cru Classé French wines in the kosher
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market. Previously, the market had been relatively quiet, with vintages from the early 2000s languishing on shelves. However, interest in Old World wines — particularly those from France, Italy and other European regions — experienced a resurgence, complementing, if not replacing, the dominance of Californian and Israeli wines. One of the first wines we tasted, and the first to be made kosher, was the Château Lascombes Grand Cru Classé Margaux 2015. Château Lascombes is located in Margaux, a prestigious appellation in the Médoc region of Bordeaux, renowned for producing some of the world’s most elegant, smooth and complex wines. Many of the most expensive wines globally come from this region. The combination of Margaux’s history, terroir and winemaking expertise has solidified its reputation. The estate is situated on the left bank of the Gironde River, about 25 kilometers north of Bordeaux city, benefiting from the ideal climate created by its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean and the estuary. The appellation extends over several communes, including Margaux, Arsac, Cantenac, Labarde and Soussans, covering roughly 1,500 hectares of vineyards. Classified as a Second Growth (Deuxième Cru) in the esteemed 1855 Bordeaux Wine Classification, Château Lascombes holds a prominent position among the finest estates in Margaux. The estate’s soils — gravelly and well-drained, touched by the gentle breezes from the Gironde estuary — are the foundation for wines that have captivated both royalty and commoners. Here, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot vines bask in the sun, their roots diving deep into the terroir, drawing up the mineral richness that imbues each vintage with a distinct sense of place. Margaux’s terroir is one of its most prized assets. The soil is a complex mix of gravel beds, which provide excellent drainage, combined with clay and sandy www.fleishigs.com
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elements. These conditions create the perfect environment for Cabernet Sauvignon — the king of grapes. The gravel retains the warmth of the sun during the day and releases it slowly during the cool evenings and nights, promoting the ripening of the grapes. Beneath the gravel lie layers of clay and limestone, which provide essential minerals and help retain water, ensuring the vines have adequate moisture during dry periods. This diversity of soils across the region gives winemakers the opportunity to blend grapes from different plots, enhancing the complexity and balance of their wines. This variation in soil types also explains the subtle differences in style between the wines produced by different estates in Margaux. As mentioned, Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in Margaux’s gravelly soils, but Merlot also plays an important role, adding softness and roundness to the blends. Smaller quantities of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc contribute to the structure and aromatic complexity of the wines. The typical blend of a Margaux wine is dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, complemented by Merlot, with touches of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. This balance gives Margaux wines their signature style, characterized by elegance, refinement and exceptional aging potential. The origins of Château Lascombes stretch back to the 17th century, when it was founded by Antoine Chevalier de Lascombes, a knight with a passion for viticulture. His name still graces the estate, tying the modern vineyard to its illustrious past. For over 300 years, the land has been nurtured by winemakers dedicated to crafting wines that achieve a delicate balance between earth and sky, tannin and fruit, tradition and innovation. In the 1980s, the estate introduced a second wine, Le Chevalier, named after its founder. This innovation came under the ownership of the Bass Group, which also owned prestigious estates like Château Latour. They hired a new winemaker to expand
The origins of Château Lascombes stretch back to the 17th century, when it was founded by Antoine Chevalier de Lascombes, a knight with a passion for viticulture. production, adding a Second Growth vineyard and launching the second wine. The Château changed hands many times over the centuries, ultimately undergoing a complete renovation and modernization in 2001 under an American investment firm. Believing that Château Lascombes’ potential was being overshadowed by neighboring wineries, the firm invested over $100 million in the vineyards, equipment and marketing. They built a new facility, replanted the vineyards and added a modern barrel-aging cellar, positioning Château Lascombes for a new era of winemaking. What sets Château Lascombes apart is its unique style — a contrast between elegance and power. While Margaux wines are known for their finesse, Château Lascombes goes a step further, offering a depth and strength that lingers on the palate. Bold yet balanced, these wines are structured without being harsh or overly acidic. They possess a versatility akin to a symphony composed with precision. The appeal of Château Lascombes wines lies in their ability to be both timeless and modern. The estate has embraced innovation while maintaining its historical roots. The wines can be enjoyed young or aged. Youthful Château Lascombes wines are lively and fresh, with vibrant notes of black fruit, spice and a whisper of oak. As they age, they become more complex, revealing layers of flavor — plums soaked in brandy, tobacco, truffle and the earthy scent of a forest floor after rain. The transformation is fascinating to experience and follow as the wines mature into their true
character. It is not only the tasting notes that make Château Lascombes wines so beloved — it is the story they tell. Each bottle is a testament to centuries of hard work and the harnessing of the natural elegance of the land where the vines are grown. It is truly a pleasure to drink this wine, especially at a festive meal or special occasion. The winery offered four kosher Second Growth Cru Classé vintages, including 2015, 2016, 2018 and 2020. The second wine, Le Chevalier, was released to the kosher market in 2015, 2017, 2019 and 2021. It has been a few months since we last opened a bottle from these recent vintages, and I am hoping we get to taste one of the older vintages at a celebratory dinner in the coming weeks. We are fortunate to have access to this Second Growth estate, where the wines can be enjoyed young, but are also a superb expression of what the terroir and Château can achieve in terms of ageability and versatility. You may be wondering about the difference between First Growth and Second Growth wines in Bordeaux. First Growth wines represent the crème de la crème of Bordeaux wines in terms of prestige, pricing and historical reputation. Second Growths, while still among the finest wines in the world, offer exceptional quality and often better value for money. Both categories are benchmarks for Bordeaux winemaking; the distinction between them is more about reputation than a significant difference in quality for certain vintages. I will drink to that! L’chaim! NOVEMBER 2024 Fleishigs
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PL TE: R EC I P E S I N S P I R E D BY O U R C U L I N A RY A DV E N T U R E S
I T’S I M P OSS I B L E TO T R AV E L A N D N OT B E I N S P I R E D BY T H E R E STAU R A N TS YO U V I S I T. H E R E A R E R EC I P E S I N S P I R E D BY T H E VA R I O U S C U I S I N E S T H AT F R A N C E’S KOS H E R R E STAU R A N TS O F F E R.
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BY: F L E I S H I GS T E ST K I TC H E N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY: SC H N E U R M E N A K E R
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Chicken Stuffed Naan
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Serves: 8-10
This stuffed naan at Safrane was fabulous and surprising — easily one of the most unique dishes we’ve ever had.
NOTE: If you can’t find non-dairy yogurt, use non-dairy sour cream. For extra tanginess, add a splash of lemon juice to it. FOR THE NAAN DOUGH: 2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast 1 tablespoon sugar 1 cup (240 ml) warm water (110°F or 45°C) 4 cups (500g) all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¼ cup unsweetened non-dairy yogurt (see head note) 2 tablespoons avocado oil FOR THE CHICKEN FILLING: 1 tablespoon avocado oil 1 onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon minced or grated fresh ginger 1 pound ground chicken 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon ground coriander ½ teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon ground paprika ½ teaspoon garam masala ½ teaspoon chili powder, optional ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste FOR COOKING: Avocado oil, for frying Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing 2 cloves garlic, minced, optional 1. For the naan dough, dissolve yeast and sugar in warm water; set aside to sit for 5-10 minutes, until frothy. 2. In a large mixing bowl, whisk flour, baking powder and salt. Create a well in the center and add yeast mixture, yogurt and oil; mix until dough begins to come together. 3. Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 5-7 minutes, until smooth and elastic. Place dough into a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap or a damp kitchen towel and set aside to rise in a warm place for about 1 hour or until doubled in size.
4. For the chicken filling, heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until softened, 3-4 minutes. Add garlic and ginger; sauté for another 1-2 minutes. 5. Add ground chicken and cook, breaking it up with a wooden spoon, until fully cooked and browned. Add spices and cook for another 2 minutes, until well incorporated. 6. Stir in cilantro and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. 7. Punch down the risen dough and divide it into 8-10 equal portions. 8. Working with one portion of dough at
a time, roll dough into a small circle on a lightly floured surface. Place a spoonful of chicken filling in the center, then fold dough over the filling and pinch to seal, forming a ball. Gently flatten into a round, about ¼-inch thick, being careful not to tear the dough. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. 9. Heat a thin layer of avocado oil in a griddle or large skillet over medium-high heat. Cook each stuffed naan for 2-3 minutes per side, until golden brown. You can also use a rolling pin to gently press the naan down while cooking to ensure even browning. 10. Brush cooked naan with olive oil and top with minced garlic (if desired). NOVEMBER 2024 Fleishigs
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Chicken Tikka Masala Serves: 6
For the kosher diner, Paris is a wonderful place to try authentic Indian cuisine. There are two kosher Indian restaurants where we enjoyed a variety of Indian dishes (see more on page 64), but the clear favorite was chicken tikka masala. This dish was invented in England and is a great introductory dish into Indian cuisine, as it was created for a Western palate. It’s best enjoyed over cooked basmati rice. FOR THE CHICKEN: 1 cup non-dairy sour cream or non-dairy unsweetened yogurt 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 (1-inch) knob fresh ginger, peeled and grated 2 teaspoons ground cumin 2 teaspoons ground coriander 1 teaspoon paprika (or Kashmiri red chili powder) 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1 teaspoon garam masala 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 pound skinless, boneless chicken thighs or breasts, cut into bite-size pieces FOR THE MASALA SAUCE: 2 tablespoons avocado or coconut oil 1 onion, finely chopped 2-3 cloves garlic, minced 1 (1-inch) knob fresh ginger, peeled and grated 1-2 green chilies, sliced, optional 1-2 teaspoons garam masala 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 cup canned crushed tomatoes ½ cup chicken broth or water with 1 bouillon cube 1 cup coconut milk Kosher salt, to taste Chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish
Moroccan Sausage and Fava Bean Stew Serves: 6-8
We enjoyed a similar version of this stew at Le Jardines de Belvedere, popular for their Tunisian delicacies. It's so warm and comforting, perfect for a cold Friday night or weeknight dinner. 2 1 1 3 1 1 ½ ¼ ½ ¼ 1 1 1 1 1
tablespoons olive oil (12-ounce) package Moroccan sausages (such as merguez), cut into bite-size pieces onion, diced cloves garlic, minced teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon ground coriander teaspoon paprika teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon ground turmeric teaspoon cayenne pepper, optional red bell pepper, chopped zucchini, chopped carrot, peeled and chopped, optional) cup dried fava beans, soaked overnight and drained, or 2 cups frozen fava beans, rinsed (14.5-ounce) can diced or crushed tomatoes or 1½ cups diced fresh tomatoes
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cups chicken or vegetable broth Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste cup chopped fresh cilantro or parsley, for garnish Cooked couscous or rice, for serving
1. Heat olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add sausages and cook until browned on all sides. Transfer sausages to a plate. 2. Add onions and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and sauté for another 1-2 minutes. Add spices and cook for another minute until well incorporated. 3. Add peppers, zucchini and carrots; sauté for 5 minutes. 4. Add fava beans, tomatoes and broth; bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, for 20-40 minutes, until vegetables are tender and fava beans are cooked through. 5. Return sausages to the pot and stir. Simmer stew, covered, for another 10 minutes. Garnish with cilantro and serve over couscous or rice.
1. For the chicken, mix non-dairy sour cream, lemon juice, garlic, ginger, cumin, coriander, paprika, turmeric, garam masala, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Add chicken and mix well to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, preferably overnight. 2. Preheat oven to 425°F. Arrange marinated chicken on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Cook for 15-20 minutes, until cooked through and golden. If desired, broil chicken for 2 minutes for a lightly charred flavor. 3. For the masala sauce, heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until golden brown, 5-7 minutes. Add garlic, ginger and chilies (if desired); sauté for another minute, until fragrant. 4. Add garam masala and sautè for 30 seconds, then add tomato paste and sautè for another 30 seconds. 5. Stir in tomatoes and chicken broth; cook for 5-7 minutes, until sauce thickens slightly. 6. Add cooked chicken to the sauce and stir to combine. Add coconut milk, stir well and simmer for another 10-15 minutes, allowing flavors to meld together. 7. Add salt, to taste. Garnish with fresh cilantro before serving. NOVEMBER 2024 Fleishigs
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Chicken Pastilla-Style Egg Rolls Yield: 10 egg rolls
These chicken pastilla-style egg rolls are inspired by a dish we enjoyed at L’Atelier Deli. They combine the rich spiced flavors of traditional Moroccan pastilla with the convenience of an egg roll, making for a delicious and unique appetizer or snack.
NOTE: This recipe is a great use for leftover chicken. You can also pick up a rotisserie chicken from the grocery store. 2 1 3 1 ¼ ¼ 2 ¼ ¼ ¼
tablespoons olive oil onion, diced cloves garlic, minced tablespoon baharat or garam masala teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon ground ginger cups cooked chicken, shredded or diced (see head note) cup chopped almonds cup raisins or diced dried apricots cup chopped fresh parsley or cilantro
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tablespoon lemon juice Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste egg roll wrappers Avocado oil, for deep frying Apricot Dipping Sauce (recipe follows), for serving
1. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and sauté for another 1-2 minutes. Add baharat, cinnamon and ginger; sauté for 1 minute. 2. Add chicken, almonds, raisins and parsley; mix well. Add lemon juice. 3. Season with salt and pepper, to taste; sauté for another 3-4 minutes, allowing the flavors to meld. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. 4. Working with one at a time, place an egg roll wrapper on a clean surface, with one corner pointing toward you (like a diamond). Spoon about 2 tablespoons of chicken filling onto the lower third of the wrapper. Fold the bottom corner over the filling, then fold the sides over and roll up tightly to seal. Use a bit of water to seal the edges if needed. Repeat with remaining wrappers and filling.
5. Heat a few inches of oil in a large skillet or pot to 350°F. Working in batches, fry egg rolls until golden brown and crispy, 3-4 minutes. 6. Remove fried egg rolls with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Serve warm with dipping sauce.
Apricot Dipping Sauce Yield: 1¼ cups
Heat 1 teaspoon olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add 1 finely minced shallot and sauté until softened and translucent, 2-3 minutes. Add 1 cup apricot preserves or jam, 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard and 1 teaspoon finely minced fresh thyme or tarragon (if desired); stir and cook for 2 minutes. Add ½ cup chicken or vegetable broth and stir to incorporate. Simmer gently for about 5 minutes, until sauce has slightly thickened. Season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste. Remove from heat and let cool slightly before serving.
CHANGE IT UP: For a healthier alternative, arrange egg rolls on a parchment-lined baking sheet and cook in a 400°F oven for 20 minutes, flipping halfway through.
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Smoky Creamy Pasta Serves: 6
This non-dairy mac and cheese is creamy and indulgent and features the smoky, savory flavor of crispy beef bacon. It’s inspired by a dish we enjoyed at Bassar, a lovely meat restaurant. The luscious, smoky sauce was studded with crispy lardons of smoked veal charcuterie unique to France. We opted for a combination of beef bacon and turkey to recreate this flavor. 2 1 2 3 3 1 1 1 ½ ½ ½ ¼ 1 ¼
(4-ounce) packages beef bacon (such as Meal Mart), diced cup cubed deli turkey tablespoons olive oil or non-dairy butter substitute tablespoons all-purpose flour cups unsweetened almond or soy milk cup non-dairy shredded cheddar cheese cup non-dairy shredded mozzarella cheese tablespoon Dijon mustard teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon onion powder teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste pound elbow macaroni, cooked al dente according to package directions cup bread crumbs, optional, for topping Chopped fresh parsley, optional, for garnish
1. Add beef bacon to a cold skillet over medium heat; cook until crispy, then transfer to a paper towel-lined plate, leaving any rendered fat in the skillet. Add turkey to the skillet and cook for 3-4 minutes, until lightly golden. Transfer turkey to a plate, leaving any remaining rendered fat in the skillet. 2. Add olive oil to the skillet and stir in flour to create a roux. Cook for 2-3 minutes, whisking constantly, until flour is lightly browned and has a nutty aroma. Gradually whisk in milk, making sure to break up any lumps. Continue whisking until thickened, about 5 minutes. 3. Lower heat. Add cheese and whisk continuously until melted and sauce is smooth. Add Dijon mustard, garlic powder, onion powder, salt and pepper. 4. Add cooked pasta, stirring to coat evenly. Fold in crispy beef bacon and turkey. Add more salt and pepper, to taste. 5. For a crispy topping, preheat oven to 375°F. Transfer macaroni and cheese to a greased baking dish, sprinkle with bread crumbs and cook for 10-15 minutes, until golden and crispy. Garnish with parsley (if desired).
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Harissa Roasted Cauliflower
Serves: 4-6
Cauliflower roasted with tomatoes, tahini and harissa sauce is a flavorful and vibrant dish that combines spicy, tangy and creamy elements. The harissa is inspired by Paris’ large Tunisian influence. 1 3 2 1 1 1½ ¾ ½ 1 1
large head cauliflower, cut into florets tablespoons olive oil, divided tablespoons harissa paste (adjust to taste) teaspoon ground cumin teaspoon smoked paprika teaspoons kosher salt, divided teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, divided teaspoon ground coriander pint cherry tomatoes, halved teaspoon herbes de provence or dried oregano Tahini Sauce (recipe follows), for serving
Harissa Sauce (recipe follows), for serving Fresh parsley and toasted sesame seeds, for garnish
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Toss cauliflower on a baking sheet with 2 tablespoons olive oil, harissa, cumin, paprika, 1 teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon pepper and coriander until evenly coated. Roast for 25-30 minutes, until cauliflower is tender and caramelized, tossing halfway through. 2. Meanwhile, toss tomatoes on a second baking sheet with remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, herbes de provence, remaining ½ teaspoon salt and remaining ¼ teaspoon pepper. Roast for about 15 minutes, until softened and slightly caramelized.
Tahini Sauce Yield: ¾ cup
Whisk ½ cup tahini, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 2 tablespoons water and 1 grated garlic clove. Season with kosher salt, to taste. Add more water to achieve desired consistency.
Harissa Sauce Yield: ¼ cup
Mix 2 tablespoons harissa paste, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 1 teaspoon honey.
3. Transfer roasted cauliflower and tomatoes to a serving platter. Drizzle with tahini sauce and harissa sauce. Garnish with parsley and sesame seeds.
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Salmon Caesar Salad Serves: 4
This delicious Caesar salad is elevated with the addition of perfectly seared salmon, making it a satisfying meal inspired by Bassar’s classic Caesar salad tacos.
NOTE: Find a recipe for homemade vegan Parmesan, by Elisheva Taitz, on the Fleishigs app. FOR THE SALMON: 2 (6-ounce) salmon fillets ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon olive oil FOR THE SALAD: 1 large head romaine lettuce, chopped ¼ cup grated non-dairy Parmesan (such as Violife or Follow Your Heart) ½ cup Caesar Dressing (recipe follows) 1 cup Baguette Croutons (recipe follows) Freshly ground black pepper, to taste Lemon wedges, for serving 1. Pat salmon fillets dry with paper towels, then season on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Sear salmon, skin-side down, for 4-5 minutes, undisturbed. Carefully flip salmon and cook for another 3-4 minutes, until salmon is cooked through and flakes easily with a fork. Adjust cooking time based on the thickness of the fillets and your preference. 2. Toss lettuce with Caesar dressing in a large bowl until evenly coated. Add Parmesan and croutons; toss gently to combine. Season with pepper, to taste. 3. Divide Caesar salad among serving plates. Top with salmon and serve with lemon wedges.
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Caesar Dressing
Baguette Croutons
Yield: 2 cups
Serves: 6
NOTE: Find a recipe for vegan fish sauce on the Fleishigs app. If omitting entirely, use a bit more salt, to taste.
Baguette croutons are a delicious way to add crunch and flavor to salads, soups and more. They are easy to make and can be seasoned to your liking. Keep leftover croutons in an airtight container at room temperature.
Blend 1 cup mayonnaise, 2 teaspoons fish sauce (optional, see head note), 1 tablespoon drained capers, 3 tablespoons nutritional yeast, 2-3 garlic cloves, 2-3 tablespoons lemon juice, 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, 1 teaspoon sugar, ¼ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.
Preheat oven to 375°F. Cut 1 (12-14 inch) stale or dayold French baguette into cubes. Toss on a baking sheet with ¼ cup olive oil, 1 teaspoon garlic powder, 1 teaspoon dried herbs (such as oregano, thyme or rosemary), ½ teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Spread in an even layer and cook for 8-12 minutes, stirring halfway through, until golden brown and crispy. Let croutons cool completely. Use immediately or store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 week. www.fleishigs.com
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CHEF AVNER'S SIGNATURE SALMON TARTARE: A FRENCH MASTERPIECE WITH A FRESH TWIST
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Donate to Masbia Today Masbia is a not-for-profit charity organization that was founded in April 2005 with one goal in mind – no one should go to sleep hungry, even if they could not afford a meal that day. In 2009, after the great recession, Masbia opened more locations. The expansion was even mentioned on Saturday Night Live. Masbia was actually featured in People Magazine in 2014 as a “restaurant without a cash register”.
After a couple of years, Masbia staff started giving people raw food to take home. It quickly turned into a weekly food package distribution that now dwarfs in volume the amount of food served at the restaurant. Now Masbia operates two programs, one known as Soup-Kitchen, where people are served ready-to-eat dinners, and the other as FoodPantry, where people receive raw food ingredient packages to take with them. A few hundred families visit Masbia every day at each of our three locations. That means about 1,000 families a day and 5,000 families a week get food relief
from Masbia. In addition to people visiting Masbia to get services, Masbia is venturing to do deliveries with the support of DoorDash. Masbia also activates a relief squad that responds to emergencies beyond the existing neighborhoods we operate in.
Masbia is a grass-roots, hand-to-mouth organization where every dollar donated makes it into someone’s stomach in less than two weeks. Everything that is done at Masbia is done only because tens of thousands of people like you come together and share resources to make it happen. In Short: Masbia Soup Kitchen Network provides emergency food to people in need due to financial status or because of natural disasters via ready-to-eat nutritious meals and raw groceries, free of charge.
Masbia.Org/Sponsor ADDRESS PO Box 191181, Brooklyn, NY 11219 TEL 718-972-4446 WEB www.masbia.org TAX ID: 20-1923521
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Next Level Salmon Tartare Serves: 4
By: Chef Avner Guzman
The subtle touches to this salmon tartare showcase French technique and inspiration. Curing the salmon for just a short while, mixing and seasoning the salmon separately from the salad and the addition of capers and cumin seeds show how simple recipes with strong technique can lead to complex flavors.
EDITOR’S NOTE: Originally featured way back in Issue #6, when Chef Avner came to visit us in our test kitchen, we were blown away by his technique and attention to detail as he crafted this recipe out of nowhere. Avner has since moved back to France full time and became the Executive Chef at Etnikahn in France. On our trip, we caught up with Avner and reminisced about that day in our test kitchen. We knew we had to reprint this recipe in the France issue for old time’s sake.
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FOR THE TARTARE: 1 pound skinless Scottish (sushi-grade) salmon ⅓ cup kosher salt ⅓ cup sugar Zest of 2 limes, divided Zest of 2 lemons, divided ½ cup chopped fresh chives 1 teaspoon crushed pink peppercorn, optional FOR THE SALAD: 2 kiwis, finely diced, plus more for garnish 1 Granny Smith apple, finely diced ¼ cup capers, finely chopped ⅓ cup finely diced red onions ⅓ cup chopped scallions 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, optional Romaine lettuce and arugula, for serving
1. For the tartare, mix salt and sugar; rub all over salmon. Top with the zest of 1 lime and 1 lemon. Refrigerate for 30-60 minutes for a quick cure. 2. Remove salmon from the fridge and rinse under cold water, washing away all of the cure. Pat dry with paper towels. 3. Finely dice salmon, then toss with chives, remaining lime and lemon zest and peppercorns (if desired). 4. For the salad, toss kiwis, apples, capers, red onions, scallions, olive oil and cumin seeds (if desired). 5. Layer tartare with kiwi salad. Serve alongside lettuce, arugula and more kiwis.
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A F T E R T H I S T R I P TO F R A N C E , I WAS I N S P I R E D TO C R E AT E A T H E M E D S H A B BAT M E N U TO B R I N G M E BAC K TO T H E O N E- O F-A- K I N D C O U N T RY. W E H A D T R AV E L E D T H RO U G H O U T T H E C O U N T RY, F RO M T H E N O RT H E R N C I T Y O F ST R AS B O U RG TO PA R I S A N D T H E N TO T H E SO U T H O F F R A N C E A N D C O L L ECT E D M E M O R I E S TO L AST A L I F E T I M E A LO N G T H E WAY. B U T W H AT I GA I N E D M OST WAS C U L I N A RY I N S P I R AT I O N B E YO N D M Y W I L D E ST I M AG I N AT I O N . T H I S M E N U I S P E R F ECT FO R A C O O L S H A B BAT, BY: S H I F R A K L E I N P H OTO G R A P H Y BY: S H E N E U R M E N A K E R
W H E R E H E A RT Y, WA R M , C O M FO RT I N G R EC I P E S A R E W E LC O M E .
Friday Night: Coq au Vin Roasted Pommes Sarladaises Haricots Verts Amandine
Shabbos Day: Overnight Cassoulet Ratatouille Tart French Bistro Salad Alsatian Chocolate Raspberry Tart
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Coq au Vin Serves: 4-6
Coq au vin is a classic French dish that translates to "rooster in wine." The chicken is braised slowly in red wine with aromatic vegetables, mushrooms and herbs, resulting in a rich, flavorful meal. 1 4 4 2 1 1 1 2 2 2 1 2 2-3 ½-1 1 2 2
(4-ounce) package beef or duck bacon, diced skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs skin-on, bone-in chicken legs teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste tablespoon olive oil onion, diced carrots, sliced cups cremini or button mushrooms, quartered loves garlic, minced tablespoon tomato paste cups red wine (such as Burgundy or Pinot Noir) sprigs fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme cup chicken broth bay leaf tablespoons all-purpose flour, optional tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, for garnish
1. Add beef bacon to a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat and cook until crispy. Transfer to a plate, leaving rendered fat in the pot. 2. Season chicken generously with salt and pepper. Working in batches if necessary, sear chicken, skin-side down, for 5-7 minutes per side, until golden. Transfer chicken to a plate. 3. Add oil (if needed) to the pot. Add onions and sauté for 5 minutes. Add carrots and mushrooms; sauté for another 5-10 minutes, until softened. Add garlic and sauté for another minute. 4. Add tomato paste and stir until incorporated. Add red wine and scrape the browned bits from the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon. Bring to a simmer and cook until slightly reduced, about 5 minutes.
Roasted Pommes Sarladaises Serves: 4-6
Pommes sarladaises is a classic French side dish from the Périgord region, known for its rich flavors and crispy texture. These potatoes are sautéed in duck fat, which gives them an incredible depth of flavor. They are often garnished with garlic and fresh parsley, making the dish a perfect accompaniment to roasted meats or stews. We revised the recipe to accommodate roasting in an oven instead of pan frying for a more practical method that yields a similar flavor profile — perfect for a Friday night dinner. 2
5. Return chicken and beef bacon to the pot. Add thyme.
¼
6. Add chicken broth, enough to almost submerge the chicken. Bring to a simmer, then lower heat and cook, covered, for 4560 minutes, until chicken is tender.
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7. If a thicker sauce is desired, mix flour with a little bit of water to create a slurry, then stir it into the pot during the last 10-15 minutes of cooking. 8. Season with more salt and pepper, to taste. Discard bay leaf and thyme sprigs before serving. Garnish with parsley.
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pounds Yukon Gold or Russet potatoes, peeled and cubed cup duck fat, chicken fat or olive oil cloves garlic, minced teaspoon herbs de Provence teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish
1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Toss potatoes on a parchment-lined baking sheet with duck fat, garlic, herbs de provence, salt and pepper. Roast for 30-40 minutes, tossing halfway through, until golden brown and crispy on the outside and tender on the inside. 2. Transfer roasted potatoes to a serving platter and garnish with parsley. Serve immediately while hot and crispy or keep in a warm oven until ready to serve.
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Overnight Cassoulet
3. Working in batches if necessary, sear sausages, chicken and meat. Transfer to the baking sheet or large plate.
find haricot verts, use regular green beans; just be sure to trim them before cooking.
Cassoulet is a hearty slow-cooked casserole originating from the south of France, traditionally made with white beans and various meats. Making cassoulet overnight allows the flavors to meld beautifully, resulting in a rich and delicious dish that also serves as a perfect cholent option.
4. Add oil to the pot. Add onions, carrots, celery and garlic; cook until softened, 5-7 minutes.
• If you don’t want to use duck or chicken fat, just use another tablespoon of oil.
NOTES: • For this recipe, it’s best to use one whole piece of chuck roast (it might also be called pot roast) as opposed to cubed. You can buy a bigger roast than what is needed for this recipe, cut it up at home and freeze the other pieces for another time. Alternatively, feel free to ask the butcher to cut it up for you.
6. Cover pot and transfer to the oven. Cook for 1 hour, then lower heat to 200°F and cook for 8-10 hours (overnight). Alternatively, cook in a slow cooker overnight on low heat. Season with more salt and pepper, to taste.
Serves: 8-10
• You can use canned beans if desired; just rinse them really well. FOR THE CASSOULET: 1 (4-ounce) package beef or duck bacon, diced 1 pound sausages (such as Pelleh duck or Meal Mart Polish), diced 1 pound skin-on bone-in chicken thighs 1 pound chuck roast (see head note) 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, diced 1 stalk celery, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 cups dried white beans (such as cannellini or Great Northern), soaked overnight, then rinsed and drained 4-6 cups chicken or vegetable broth 1 bay leaf 2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste ½ teaspoon smoked paprika
5. Add soaked beans, chicken broth, bay leaf, salt, pepper and paprika. Bring to a simmer, then return beef bacon, sausages, chicken and meat to the pot.
7. For the bread crumb topping, preheat oven to 375°F. Toss bread crumbs, parsley, thyme, salt and pepper with olive oil on a baking sheet. Toast for 8-10 minutes, until toasted and golden. Serve cassoulet in individual bowls and top with bread crumb topping.
Haricots Verts Amandine Serves: 6
Haricots verts amandine features tender green beans sautéed with butter and topped with toasted almonds. We modified the classic with olive oil and some duck fat for richness. This dish is elegant yet simple, making it a perfect accompaniment to a variety of main courses.
NOTES: • Haricot verts are a French green bean variety that are fairly easy to find. They are thinner and don’t really require trimming. However, if you can’t
1 2 1 ⅓ 2 1 ½ 1
pound haricots verts (French green beans) tablespoons olive oil tablespoon duck or chicken fat cup sliced almonds cloves garlic, minced teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoon lemon juice, optional Chopped fresh parsley, for garnish
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Blanch haricot verts for about 2-3 minutes, until bright green and crisp. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, immediately transfer blanched haricot verts into an ice bath to stop the cooking process. This helps retain their vibrant color. Once cooled, drain and set aside. 2. Heat olive oil and duck fat in a skillet over medium heat. Add almonds and toast, stirring frequently, for 3-4 minutes, until golden brown, being careful not to burn them. In the last 30 seconds, add garlic and sauté just until fragrant. Transfer almonds to a plate and set aside. 3. Add duck fat to the skillet. Once hot, add blanched haricots verts and sauté for 2-3 minutes, until heated through. Season with salt and pepper. 4. Transfer haricot verts to a serving platter. Drizzle with lemon juice (if desired) and top with almonds and garlic. Garnish with parsley.
FOR THE BREAD CRUMB TOPPING: 1 cup fresh bread crumbs 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 1 teaspoon dried thyme ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil or chicken fat 1. For the cassoulet, preheat oven to 350°F. 2. Add beef bacon to a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat and cook until crispy. Transfer to a baking sheet or large plate, leaving rendered fat in the pot. NOVEMBER 2024 Fleishigs
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Ratatouille Tart Serves: 8-10
This ratatouille tart is a stunning and elevated take on the traditional dish. By using a flaky pastry base, you create a beautiful presentation that’s perfect for entertaining. The tart is filled with colorful vegetables and enhanced with herbs. It can be served warm or at room temperature. 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 3 2 1 1 2 1
sheet puff pastry tablespoons olive oil small onion, finely chopped cloves garlic, minced medium eggplant, diced red bell pepper, diced yellow bell pepper, diced medium zucchini, diced medium yellow squash, diced tablespoons tomato paste teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon herbs de Provence tablespoons water egg, for egg wash, optional Fresh basil, for garnish Balsamic glaze, optional, for drizzling
1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Slightly roll out puff pastry, then place on a parchment-lined baking sheet; chill in the fridge while preparing the filling. 2. Heat olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and sauté for another minute, until fragrant. 3. Add eggplant and sauté for about 5 minutes, until softened. Add peppers, zucchini and squash. Sauté for another 5-7 minutes, until vegetables are tender. 4. Add tomato paste, salt, pepper and herbs de Provence; sauté until incorporated. Add water and simmer for about 10 minutes, until thickened. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. 5. Spoon ratatouille filling onto the puff pastry, leaving a 1½-inch border all around. Fold edges over each other to create a crust. Brush edges with beaten egg for a golden finish. 6. Cook tart for 25-30 minutes, until pastry is golden brown. Allow tart to cool for a few minutes before slicing. Garnish with fresh basil and a drizzle of balsamic glaze (if desired).
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INDULGE IN DECADENCE: A RICH CHOCOLATE JAM TART WITH A PERFECTLY SWEET TWIST! This tart layers velvety chocolate ganache over a surprise of luscious fruit preserves for a dessert that’s equal parts elegant and playful. With each bite, experience the meltin-your-mouth texture and the delightful balance of rich cocoa and fruity brightness. Perfect for impressing guest — or treating yourself to a little everyday luxury!
NOTE: Not a fan of the chocolate and fruit combo? Swap the preserves for creamy peanut butter or indulgent Lotus spread for a whole new twist on flavor! Customize this tart to suit your sweet cravings.
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Indulge in Siene-smooth baking chocolate that brings Swiss richness to Parisian pastry charm. And there’s a’more! Discover the full Alprose collection.
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Alsatian Chocolate Raspberry Tart Serves: 8
This dessert is inspired by a chocolate shortbread cookie filled with raspberry jam that we had at Boulangerie Pâtisserie Hanau in Strasbourg. I decided to use the raspberry-chocolate inspiration for a tart. FOR THE PASTRY: 1¼ cups all-purpose flour ¼ cup unsweetened cocoa powder ¼ cup sugar ½ cup (1 stick) cold non-dairy butter, diced 1 egg yolk 1-2 tablespoons cold water, if needed FOR THE FILLING: 1 cup non-dairy heavy whipping cream (such as Rich’s) 8 ounces dark chocolate (60-70% cocoa), finely chopped 2 tablespoons sugar 2 eggs 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1 cup raspberry preserves
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1. For the pastry, whisk flour, cocoa powder and sugar in a large mixing bowl. Using your fingers, mix butter into the dry ingredients until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. 2. Add egg yolk and mix until dough comes together. If the dough is too dry, add cold water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until dough is cohesive. 3. Shape dough into a disc, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. 4. Preheat oven to 350°F. Roll out chilled pastry dough on a lightly floured surface to fit a 9-inch tart pan. Press dough into the tart pan and press into the edges. Trim any excess dough.
6. For the filling, add whipping cream to a saucepan over medium heat until it just begins to simmer. 7. Place chocolate in a heatproof bowl and pour the hot whipping cream over it. Set bowl aside for a few minutes, then mix until smooth and fully melted. Add sugar, eggs and vanilla extract; mix until well combined. 8. Spread preserves on the bottom of the cooled crust, then top with chocolate filling. Bake for 20-25 minutes, until filling is set but still slightly soft in the center. Allow tart to cool completely before serving.
5. Line the pastry dough with parchment paper and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 15 minutes. Remove pie weights and parchment and continue to bake for another 5 minutes. Allow crust to cool completely.
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SALADE LYONNAISE By: Shifra Klein ISSUE #55 The warm vinaigrette of this classic French dish is an added touch that elevates any salad to restaurant quality.
SALMON TARTARE
PASTRAMI POUTINE
By: Avner Guzman
By: Fleishigs Test Kitchen
ISSUE #6
ISSUE #12
The subtle touches to this salmon tartare showcase French technique and inspiration, from a resident French chef, Avner Guzman. Find the recipe on page 115 too.
Once you have the perfect French fries (page 27), try this meat version of poutine, a quintessential dish associated with FrenchCanadian culture.
Pardon My French BY: ELISHEVA TAITZ
ONION-HERB ROASTED BONE MARROW By: Heshy Jay ISSUE #5 Roasted bone marrow can be found on many French menus. It’s a delectable treat served with toasted bread.
RASPBERRY AND ROSE MACARON CAKE By: Paula Shoyer ISSUE #7 Although they originate in Italy, macarons are a popular French dessert and can be found in most French bakeries. This showstopping cake is an homage to the beloved cookie.
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Here is a round-up of some French dishes from prior issues. Find the full recipes on the Fleishigs app.
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BRAISED DUCK LEGS WITH FENNEL AND SHALLOTS By: Anna Hanau ISSUE #30 Confit is a traditional French preparation for duck that yields tender, fall-off-the-bone meat. Braising yields a similar texture, and this recipe is so easy to prepare.
POT AU FEU By: Shifra Klein ISSUE #56 Pot au feu is French cuisine’s chicken soup. It’s a bowl of comfort food — perfect for the cold season.
SHEET PAN RATATOUILLE By: Adina Silberman ISSUE #56 A vegetarian French Provençal dish that is traditionally stewed on a stovetop, this version is seamlessly made on a sheet pan.
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EPISODE FOUR: THE TREASURES OF THE MEDITERR ANEAN
A C U L I N A R Y T O U R O F I TA L I A
Dive into the Paradise Island of Trappani with Roberto Serrini as we uncover the deep cultural roots that make tuna the prized delicacy known to locals as the “swimming gold of the Mediterranean,” a true treasure of the sea.
A TUSCANINI ORIGINAL
FILMED IN ITALY
RobeRto SeRRini EXECUTIVE PRODUCER eRin Judd assIsTanT PRODUCER Rivka Levi PRODUCTIOn no FRameS CREaTIVE DIRECTIOn HeaRt.WoRkS Rivi bRauneR CHaRLeS HeRzog YoCHeved SCHLeSingeR aRi kaSoWitz FEaTURIng CeSeRina oFeLia ChEF giovanni teRRaCina DIRECTOR
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E M B R A C E T H E F L AV O R S O F FA L L W I T H E V E R Y S I P. C H E E R S T O C O Z Y N I G H T S , C R I S P D AY S , G O L D E N L E A V E S , A N D U N F O R G E T TA B L E M O M E N T S !