Fleishigs Magazine Issue 015 - Feb 2020 by Fleishigs Magazine

M E D I U M D O N E W E L L A W E ’ R E

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BUTCHER’S CUT: SHOULDER YOU WON’T CRY ON. page 14

ISSUE FEB. 2020

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CRUMBLE IN THE CONCRETE JUNGLE.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

10 12

EDITOR’S LETTER

EDIBLE GIFTS Homemade chocolate bars with a Fleishigs spin

22 MIRIAM’S PARTY

BUTCHER’S CUT

APPETIZERS Miriam Pascal and Fleishigs collaborate on favorite appetizers

This month, meat expert Naftali Hanau discusses the versatile cut, shoulder roast.

33 COOKBOOK

SEASONAL

The perfect Persian Purim feast fit for a king.

Persian Food from the NonPersian Bride by Reyna Simnegar

39 SWEET & SAVORY PURIM

TREATS How to take classic desserts up a notch

46 L’CHAIM!

Put on a show with our smoking cocktails

66 RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Feasting on the best from Doma Land + Sea and Streats Food + Drink in Cedarhurst, NY

78 TRENDING

The top CBD products in the kosher market today

CULINARY SCHOOL

79 INTERVIEW

Rebbetzin Rochie Pinson shares festive twists on challah.

Mendy Sacho, CEO of Kosher CBD

80 TOP 5

60 TRAVEL

Explore the centuries-old Jewish history of Gibraltar.

Gabriel Boxer shares his favorite Persian restaurants

82 RECIPE INDEX 84 WINE GUIDE 86 RESOURCE GUIDE 90 THE EXPERT

Common baking questions answered by Miriam Pascal

MIRIAM PASCAL is the founder of www.OvertimeCook.com, one of the internet’s leading destinations for kosher recipes, with hundreds of thousands of monthly visitors. A self-taught cook and baker, Miriam shares her passion for recipes, food and photography on her website, as well as in her popular food column in Mishpacha Magazine’s weekly food supplement, Family Table. Her dessert cookbook, Something Sweet, enhanced her reputation as a goto source for easy-to-prepare, delicious kosher recipes. Its success was followed by the best-selling cookbook, Real Life Kosher Cooking, which sold out of its first printing in only 10 days. Her third cookbook published by Artscroll, More Real Life Kosher Cooking, was recently released. Miriam has garnered a large and loyal following of home cooks who appreciate her expertise and experience in creating simple, family-friendly recipes that fit the lifestyles of busy people who want to serve nutritious and delicious meals. Miriam’s work has been featured by numerous national magazines and other media networks. Find Miriam on Instagram @overtimecook. 6

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Custom Cakes

OUT OU

W D - P L E AS

AYS • AW A

Our always rise to the occasion

CUP

CA K E

From Purim parties to birthday parties, from Upsherins to Bas Mitzvahs, from anniversary dinners to graduation celebrations … your special event deserves a cake as unique as your vision. So go ahead and design your dream theme cake and we’ll make it happen.To order your delicious, one-of-a-kind cake, visit the bakery counter at a Gourmet Glatt near you.

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editor's letter

PURIM ISSUE

CELEBRATE THE UNEXPECTED

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz

s with all Jewish holidays, food plays a significant role in how we celebrate and commemorate the occasion and Purim is no different. Hamentaschen, the triangular-shaped cookies, signify the shape of the villain Haman’s hat; stuffed foods, like kreplach, signify the hidden miracles of Purim; delivering edible gifts, mishloach manot, is a mitzvah that scores us some valuable points with God. Then there is the festive meal itself, because it’s not a Jewish holiday without one! Beyond the actual food, Purim is all about vinahapoch hu, literally translated to mean upside down. All of this and more is what inspired this incredible Purim issue. Wow, how far we have come here at Fleishigs Magazine. Our 15th issue showcases some incredible edible gifts and inspiration for the Purim feast, which can take you well beyond Purim. We took inspiration from the classic hamantaschen and together with this month’s guest editor, Miriam Pascal, we brought you lusciously sweet and tangy homemade cherry pie filling enveloped in the flakiest pie dough imaginable (which of course we had to add duck fat to!). With vinahapoch hu in mind, we totally flipped things around and asked Miriam to “Fleishify” her favorite pastries. Candied beef fry adds a sweet and salty crunch factor to one of the best chewy chocolate chip cookies we’ve ever tasted and honey-glazed corned beef adds a surprising upgrade to a crowd-pleasing peach crumble.

To celebrate one of Purim’s themes, hiddenness, we called upon another cookbook author and challah extraordinaire, Rochie Pinson, to share an epic collection

of Purim-inspired challah rolls, each one with a spiritual connection to the day. Use the rolls to start off your meal or make it part of your mishloach manot. (Quick Tip: For added meaning, attach a note explaining the significance of the roll you are gifting.)

The Purim story took place in Persia, which is modern-day Iran. This called for the perfect opportunity to transport our readers to a feast “fit for a king and queen,” brought to you by Susan Barocas, an expert on Middle Eastern cuisine. We included the magic of tahdig (the Persian crunchy rice delicacy) and many Persianinspired main dishes and sides. Inspired by the spices around me, I threw together a fabulous Persian-spiced cake and it was devoured immediately. Our Butcher’s Cut this month delves into the wonders of the lean shoulder roast, a perfect cut to serve at your Purim feast.

Purim exudes festivity, family and of course — food. We hope this issue carries you through with the inspiration to try some new things. Just check out our smoking cocktails!

COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss COPYWRITER Yudi Lewis DESIGN estudio-5.com PRODUCTION estudio-5.com PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANTS Devorah Kahan Alana White MARKETING & BRANDING Mann Sales Co. TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt

www.fleishigs.com

Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com

Bitayavon, Shifra

P.S. As a thank you to all Fleishigs readers, we’ve created some really cool, custom, downloadable chocolate bar wrappers to wrap our signature Fleishigs chocolate bars. Full instructions on pg. 13.

All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine, or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Thank you to Fishs Eddy for providing many of the beautiful dishes used to photograph recipes for this issue. Visit www.ﬁshseddy.com or their store located at 889 Broadway at 19th Street in NYC for flatware, dining ware, kitchenware, silverware, linens and more.

Tried one of our recipes? Let us know! Hello@fleishigs.com 10

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Available in Regular, Lemon, Grapefruit and Orange Sparkling Water

Sweet, Salty & Fleishigs Chocolate Bars

DESSERTS

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DESSERTS

Chocolate wasn’t always used as a sweet treat. In fact, in the days of early Mayan and Aztec civilizations it was used as a form of currency and as a savory ingredient meant to thicken and flavor stews and sauces. Savory drinks made from chocolate were common, but prepared without any added sources of sugar or sweeteners. Today, chocolate is most commonly used in confections and desserts, but pairing savory, salty elements together with sweetened chocolate really brings out its flavor. Surprise your guests or create a truly memorable edible gift by adding beef fry, salty pretzels, and/or peanuts to chocolate. The process is quite simple and quick.

Silicone chocolate molds can be purchased on Amazon.

NOTE: Email hello@fleishigs.com for a PDF file of these custommade chocolate wrappers.

SWEET, SALTY & FLEISHIGS CHOCOLATE BARS Yields: 4 bars 15 ounces semisweet or bittersweet baking chocolate 1 (4-ounce) package beef fry, cooked and chopped (recipe follows) ½ cup crushed pretzels Set up a double boiler by bringing 1½ cups water to a simmer in a 2-quart pot. Place a medium-sized glass bowl on top, making sure the bottom of the bowl is not touching the water. Add chocolate chunks to the bowl and occasionally stir until chocolate

is fully melted. Lay chocolate molds on a wire rack set over a baking sheet (or parchment paper) to catch excess chocolate. Place 2 tablespoons each of finely chopped beef fry and crushed pretzels into each chocolate mold. Pour about ½ cup of chocolate into each chocolate mold and use an offset spatula to create a smooth layer of chocolate. Refrigerate to set. Cover with foil and place in chocolate wrappers.

Peanut Variation: Microwave 2 tablespoons of creamy peanut butter for 15 seconds to loosen slightly. Drizzle into chocolate molds and top with finely chopped roasted, salted peanuts. Top with melted chocolate. Smooth with a spatula and refrigerate to set. Oven-Baked Beef Fry: Preheat oven to 400°F. Arrange beef fry on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Cook until fat renders and beef fry is crispy, about 10-15 minutes. For ultimate crispness, flip beef fry halfway through and bake on a wire rack set over a baking sheet. FEBRUARY 2020

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BUTCHER'S CUT

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Roast

houlder roast is a relatively lean roast that is cut from the shoulder of the steer, though it is still moderately tender if it comes from good quality cattle. It’s the classic cut used for deli-style roast beef; you’ll also find it called silver tip (often with a bit of “silver skin” left on the outside).

CAN LEAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCHNEUR MENAKER

BY NAFTALI HANAU

OULDER

Shoulder SH

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BUTCHER'S CUT

In addition to its lean texture and shape, a distinctive feature of a shoulder roast is an inedible piece of gristle that runs diagonally across the roast. This gristle shows up as a stripe when cut into shoulder steaks. While “London broil” is a cooking technique, not an actual cut, many butchers sell shoulder steaks as London broil or shoulder London broil. This cut is the toughest of the cuts that are commonly labeled as London broil in the kosher market. For most shoulder roasts, you want to take care not to overcook them or the lean meat will come out tough and dry. Roast at 350°F until rare or medium-rare and you’ve got yourself a tasty roast that can be served hot or cold. It can also be smoked or slow roasted. At Grow & Behold, we breed our cattle for tenderness and our shoulder roasts are pretty tender, which makes them quite versatile; we use this cut to make shoulder

steaks, pepper steak, sandwich steak and kabob cubes. In recent years, shoulder roast has gained popularity for use in sous vide cooking since it is relatively cheap, and the sous vide method is well-suited to producing moist, tender meat, even from tougher cuts. Our shoulder roast is excellent cooked for 12 hours at 130°F. For a shoulder roast from your local grocery store, you may want to go with a 24-72 hour cook time to achieve maximum tenderness. Shoulder roast is very similar to the non-kosher cut called eye of round. Feel free to use it in any recipe calling for a lean, high-heat roast, especially one prepared with a spice rub; just take care not to overcook it!

Naf Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, an online purveyor with nationwide delivery specializing in expertly butchered premiumquality kosher meats. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces pastureraised beef, veal, lamb and poultry raised with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at www.growandbehold.com.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

GRILLED S E L HO Y T UL -S

RECIPE BY NAFTALI HANAU

RO AS

T THIS HAS BECOME ONE OF OUR FAVORITE WAYS TO COOK SANDWICH STEAK. THE STRONG MARINADE IS INCREDIBLE ON THIS VARIETY OF MEAT. YOU CAN REDUCE THE REMAINING MARINADE TO MAKE A SAUCE, WHICH CAN THEN BE DRIZZLED ON TOP OF THE MEAT BEFORE SERVING.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN

ECU

E SHOULDER

THIS TECHNIQUE IS PERFECT FOR THOSE WHO DON’T HAVE A SOUS VIDE AND APPRECIATE THE LEAN TEXTURE OF CLASSIC ROAST BEEF. IT’S CRUCIAL TO MAKE SURE YOU SLICE THE ROAST AS THINLY AS YOU POSSIBLY CAN. THE THINNER THE SLICES, THE MORE TENDER THE ROAST WILL BE. THE BEST PART OF THIS ROAST IS HOW VERSATILE IT IS — IT CAN BE SERVED HOT OR AT ROOM TEMPERATURE.

FEBRUARY FEBRUARY 2020 2020

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BUTCHER'S CUT

CED SHO UL DE R

O A

N A I

PI -S

RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN

ST INSPIRED BY OUR PERSIAN SPREAD, WE DECIDED TO ADD PERSIAN SPICES TO THE SHOULDER ROAST THAT WE PREPARED IN THE SOUS VIDE, WHICH IS A VERY FORGIVING COOKING METHOD. WHILE WE RECOMMEND A RANGE OF 12-24 HOURS, WE COOKED OURS FOR 12 AND THE RESULTS WERE EXCELLENT. THE COMBINATION OF SPICES IS UNIQUE AND PACKED WITH FLAVOR, BUT FEEL FREE TO USE ANY STORE BOUGHT OR HOMEMADE SPICE RUB.

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VENOHAPOCH

VENOHAPOCHWHO f i n i sh e d th e MISCE O ? Th e S e u d a h h a sn’ t e v en sta rted y e t! From cocktails that’ll turn up the fun at your Purim seudah to adding a head-turning level of cool to that special Shalach Manos, Misceo artisanal coffee liqueur is turning up everywhere Purim matters. Quadruple-Award winning/Rated 92 By Wine Enthusiast.

WWW.MISCEOLIQUEURS.COM INFO@MISCEOLIQUEURS.COM @MISCEOLIQUEURS MISCEO LIQUEURS

Please Misceo responsibly.

BUTCHER'S CUT

KOREAN-STYLE GRILLED SHOULDER ROAST

PERSIAN-SPICED SHOULDER ROAST

Serves: 4-8

Serves: 8

RECIPE BY NAFTALI HANAU

RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN 1 (3½-pound) silver tip or shoulder roast 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon coriander 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 teaspoon sumac 1 teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon cinnamon 3 tablespoons grapeseed or vegetable oil Dill gremolata, for serving (recipe follows) Extra virgin olive oil, for serving Set sous vide to 131°F. Place roast in an airtight sous vide bag or freezer-safe Ziploc bag and cook in the sous vide for 12-24 hours. Remove roast from bag and pat dry. Combine salt, sugar, turmeric, coriander, ginger, sumac, cumin, pepper and cinnamon and rub all over roast. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and sear roast for 5 minutes per side. Set aside for 10 minutes to rest. Slice and serve with dill gremolata and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Dill Gremolata: Combine ½ cup chopped dill, ⅓ cup chopped pistachios, zest and juice of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoon flaky sea salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

BARBECUE SHOULDER ROAST Serves: 6-8 RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN ½ cup non-dairy butter substitute (like Earth Balance or Betterine), at room temperature 1 tablespoon smoked paprika 1 tablespoon brown sugar 2 teaspoons garlic powder 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon onion powder ½ teaspoon cumin ½ teaspoon coriander 1 (3-pound) silver tip or shoulder roast 1 large onion, thinly sliced 1 (12-ounce) bottle beer 1 cup barbecue sauce Horseradish mayo, for serving (recipe follows) Preheat oven to 350°F. Combine non-dairy butter with paprika, brown sugar, garlic, salt, pepper, onion, cumin and coriander. Rub all over roast. Add onions to the bottom of a 9x13-inch baking dish. Pour beer over onions and place roast on top. Cook, uncovered, until meat reaches an internal temperature of 130°F, about 1 hour and 20 minutes. Brush barbecue sauce over roast and broil for 5 minutes. Let cool before slicing. Serve with horseradish mayo. Horseradish Mayo: Combine 1 cup mayonnaise, ⅓ cup jarred white horseradish, 3 thinly sliced scallions, ½ teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon sugar.

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2 bunches scallions, divided ¼ cup soy sauce 2½ tablespoons sesame oil, divided 2 tablespoons sugar 6 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons mirin (sweet Japanese cooking wine) or sherry 2 tablespoons Korean red pepper flakes or 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes 1 pound sandwich steak or pepper steak, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon vegetable oil Finely chop 1 bunch scallions. Combine chopped scallions, soy sauce, 2 tablespoons sesame oil, sugar, garlic, mirin and red pepper flakes. Add beef and marinate at room temperature for at least 30 minutes or refrigerate overnight. Bring to room temperature. Heat oil in a grill pan over medium-high heat and sear meat until it is nicely browned, about 1-2 minutes. Cook meat in batches so as not to crowd the pan. Toss 1 bunch of scallions with remaining ½ tablespoon sesame oil and grill until charred. Serve meat alongside grilled scallions.

ORANGE BEEF Serves: 8 RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN 1 (3-pound) shoulder roast or shoulder London broil, thinly sliced 1 cup cornstarch Oil, for frying ⅓ cup teriyaki sauce Zest and juice of 2 oranges 1 tablespoon grated ginger 3 cloves garlic, grated ⅓ cup sugar 2 tablespoons corn syrup 1 tablespoon Sriracha 3 scallions, chopped, for garnish 1 orange, sliced, for garnish Dust sliced shoulder roast with cornstarch and set aside for 30 minutes. Fill a deep sauté pan halfway with oil and heat over medium-high heat. Fry meat in a single layer until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain and discard the oil. Whisk teriyaki sauce, orange zest and juice, ginger, garlic, sugar, corn syrup and Sriracha until combined. Heat sauce over high heat and bring to a boil. Add crispy meat and toss until fully coated. Garnish with scallions and sliced oranges.

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BACKPOCKET

R A Y S i DE S

G O

F L E I S H I G S BY MIRIAM PASCAL

Planning side dishes is a consistent challenge when throwing a party or hosting a get together. Miriam Pascal shares three sides that work as party appetizers. They can be prepared meat, dairy or pareve, making them the ultimate backpocket recipes to have in your repertoire.

PASTA CHIP NACHOS

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CHICKEN AVOCADO SPRING ROLLS

SPICERUBBED SKIRT STEAK

POTATO LEEK KNISH BRAID

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BACKPOCKET

ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CRUNCH TIME

FEBRUARY 2020

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BACKPOCKET

CHICKEN AVOCADO SPRING ROLLS Yields: 12 spring rolls

CHICKEN AVOCADO SPRING ROLLS

I originally made these together with my friend Miriam R. at her house. As they came out of the pan, her kids hovered around, excitedly tasting and exclaiming how much they liked it. When a recipe gets two thumbs-up from the grownups AND the kids, I know it’s a winner! Plus, this recipe is versatile in that it can be fried, air-fried or baked. The original recipe in my book, More Real Life Kosher Cooking, uses salmon, which is a great vegetarian alternative. Simply replace the chicken with salmon and reduce cooking time by 10 minutes. ½ cup sweet chili sauce, plus more for serving, optional 1 tablespoon soy sauce Juice of 1 lime 3 boneless, skinless chicken thighs 12 spring roll wrappers 1 avocado, thinly sliced Oil (for frying) or nonstick cooking spray (for air-frying or baking) Preheat oven to 400°F. Combine sweet chili sauce, soy sauce and lime juice. Add chicken to a 9x13-inch baking dish. Pour about 2 tablespoons of sauce over each cutlet and rub all over both sides. Reserve a few tablespoons of sauce. Cook chicken for 25 minutes. Slice into large pieces and return to pan. Add reserved sauce and mix to distribute evenly. Let cool. Assemble the spring rolls: Place a spring roll wrapper diagonally on a hard surface. Overlap 2-3 slices avocado in the center. Top with a few strips of chicken. Fold the sides of the spring roll over the avocado and chicken, then fold the bottom over the center. Roll up as tightly as possible. Wet your finger and run it across the tip of the wrapper and press to seal. Repeat with remaining ingredients.

POTATO LEEK KNISH BRAID

DEEP FRY METHOD: Add about 1½ inches of oil to a deep sauté pan set over medium heat. Fry spring rolls, a few at a time, for about 1 minute, then flip and fry for an additional 30-45 seconds, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve with sweet chili sauce, if desired.

AIR FRY METHOD: Spray both sides of each spring roll with nonstick cooking spray, then place a few into the basket of an air fryer. Cook at 375°F for 5 minutes, then flip and cook at 400°F until crispy, about 3 minutes. Serve with sweet chili sauce, if desired.

OVEN METHOD: Preheat oven to 450°F. Spray both sides of each spring roll well with nonstick cooking spray. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake until crispy, about 8 minutes. Serve with sweet chili sauce, if desired.

NOTES: Instead of serving with sweet chili sauce, double the sauce mixture and use as a dip for the spring rolls. The chicken or salmon with the sauce is delicious on its own, as well.  PLAN AHEAD: Spring rolls can be prepared 1-2 days in advance. Refrigerate, then rewarm, uncovered, until heated through.

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BACKPOCKET

PASTA CHIP NACHOS

POTATO LEEK KNISH BRAID

Serves: 6 I have very mixed feelings about nachos. While I enjoy them, I’m always the one to protest ordering them in a restaurant. Within minutes of arriving at the table, the nachos are inevitably soggy. Every time. My solution? Pasta chip nachos. These ridiculously crispy chips aren’t just tastier and more fun to eat than the traditional kind — they’re heartier. Therefore, they stay crunchy (believe it or not!) until the plate is licked clean. For this issue, I’ve “Fleishified” the original recipe (which has a decadent — gasp — cheese sauce) by adding spice-rubbed skirt steak and avocado crema. 1 (16-ounce) box lasagna noodles Oil, for frying Kosher salt, for sprinkling Pico de Gallo (recipe follows) Avocado Crema (recipe follows) Spice-Rubbed Skirt Steak (recipe follows) Prepare the pasta chips: Boil lasagna noodles to “al dente” according to package directions. Let cool, then cut noodles into triangles. Heat about 1½-inches of oil in a large, deep sauté pan. Working in batches to avoid overcrowding the pan, add several pasta triangles; fry until golden brown and crispy, 2-3 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels; immediately sprinkle with kosher salt. Set aside. Assemble the nachos: Place chips on a large platter and top with pico de gallo, avocado crema and sliced skirt steak.  NOTE: You can add your favorite toppings to this dish, such as non-dairy sour cream, avocado, corn, black beans, sliced olives and pickled hot peppers. PLAN AHEAD: Chips can be prepared ahead and stored for up to 1 week in an airtight bag or container.

Yields: 8 servings

Pico de Gallo: Combine 2 finely chopped tomatoes, 1 small diced red onion, 1 diced jalapeño, juice of 1 lime and ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Add ½ cup chopped cilantro or parsley. Avocado Crema: Blend 1 ripe avocado with ⅔ cup mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 2 teaspoons hot sauce, 1 clove garlic, 1 tablespoon honey and ½ teaspoon kosher salt.

MIRIAM’S SPICERUBBED SKIRT STEAK Serves: 4-8 This spice rub is a little spicy, a little sweet and packs a huge punch of flavor that will enhance steak, chicken, fish and even vegetables. You can double or even triple the mixture to have it on hand whenever you need it. 1½ pounds skirt steak 2 teaspoons brown sugar 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon onion powder 1 teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon chili powder 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 tablespoons vegetable oil Soak skirt steak in ice cold water for 30 minutes. Drain and pat dry. Combine spices in a bowl and rub all over steak. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. Add steak to pan and cook for 3 minutes per side. Set aside for 10 minutes before slicing.

If you’re looking for a side dish with a “wow” factor, here you go! While this may seem complicated to make, don’t be scared off. Not only is it freezer-friendly, but the potatoleek mixture is delicious on its own. To update this recipe for Fleishigs, I added corned beef to the mixture, which takes this amazing dish to new heights — it can even be served as a main dish. 3 tablespoons oil, divided 2 large onions, diced 1 tablespoon kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste 3 large leeks, white and light green parts only, cut into half-moons 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons honey 5 Yukon Gold potatoes, boiled until fork tender 1 (6-ounce) package sliced corned beef, chopped 2 sheets puff pastry or savory pie dough sheets 1 egg, lightly beaten, for brushing Prepare the filling: Heat 1½ tablespoons of oil in a large, deep sauté pan set over medium heat. Add onions, ½ tablespoon salt and pepper. Sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add leeks and garlic. Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low; add remaining 1½ tablespoons oil, remaining ½ tablespoon salt and honey. Cook for about 30 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes, until mixture has reduced and darkened slightly. Use a potato masher or ricer to mash potatoes; place into a large bowl. Add onion mixture and stir well to incorporate. Taste and adjust seasoning,

if needed. Set aside. Add chopped corned beef to potato mixture. Preheat oven to 375°F. Prepare the braid: Flour a large piece of parchment paper, place dough on parchment and roll into a 12x18-inch rectangle, about ⅛-inch thick. Lightly mark the dough into 3 sections along the length but do not cut through the dough. Place half of the filling along the center section. Starting with one long side, cut parallel strips of dough, about 1 inch wide, from the edge of the filling toward the edge of the dough. Repeat with the second side, cutting the same number of strips on each side. To form the braid, angle a strip from one side over the filling, then repeat with a strip of dough from the other side. Repeat with remaining strips, alternating between the two sides, until the braid is complete. Repeat with the second sheet of dough. Brush with beaten egg. Bake for 30-35 minutes, until golden brown.  NOTE: Make it even more Fleishigs: Place more strips of pastrami under the potato filling before braiding.

For the original recipes, see Miriam's latest book More Real Life Kosher Cooking. Reprinted with permission from Artscroll. FEBRUARY 2020

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Persian Feast When life hands you rice, nuts and pomegranates, cook a Persian feast.

BY SUSAN BAROCAS FEBRUARY 2020

Fleishigs

Fe PERSIAN FEAST: FIT FOR KINGS & QUEENS

hen King Nebuchadnezzar conquered Jerusalem and Judea in 586 BCE, he exiled nearly all Jews to eastern lands, including the region that was ancient Persia, now modern Iran. In fact, the conquering king came from the city of Susa, known as Shushan in the Purim story.

Rice is served with nearly every meal, from plain white rice, to jeweled rice studded with dried fruits, barberries and pistachios, to rice with the famous tahdig — that highly desirable crisp golden crust (recipe follows). Parboiled and steamed basmati rice is a popular Persian technique that results in beautiful individual grains. Legumes such as fava beans, lima beans, brown lentils or black-eyed peas can be served on their own or mixed into the rice along with dill, saffron and/or turmeric.

s By the time Queen Esther moved into the palace a little over two centuries later, it is said that Jews lived in every one of the 127 provinces ruled by King Achashverosh. Over the ensuing 2,500 or so years, through good times and bad, the Persian Jews created a continuous community with distinctive customs, culture and foods.

Persian food takes advantage of the bounty of the land and climate with abundant vegetables, herbs and spices that Jews integrated and adapted to create a rich cuisine for every day, Shabbat and holidays. Most Persian versions of the Pesach seder plate’s charoset, for example, incorporate three or four varieties of nuts and several fresh and dried fruits, a far cry from the few walnuts and apples present in the Ashkenazic counterpart. Persian families love to host abundant meals. Shabbat and holiday meals usually start with several salads and dips, a variety of olives and pickled vegetables, a couple of fish dishes and lavash or pita bread. The celebratory main course can easily include a multitude of dishes of lamb or veal, chicken, stewed vegetables and one or two rice dishes. Always present on the table are serving dishes full of fresh herbs such as parsley, dill, mint and cilantro for diners to add liberally to their food.

Sweet and savory meat dishes use lamb, poultry and some beef. Meat is grilled as kebabs or cooked with fruit such as dates, prunes, apricots, pomegranates and dried limes. Sauces and stews, such as fesenjan (recipe follows), are thickened with pomegranate syrup and ground roasted nuts, ingredients that were both indigenous to Persia and highly sought on the Silk Road trade route. Fish, mostly white varieties, are grilled, baked or fried, sometimes stuffed whole with herbs and lemons.

Raw, pickled, fried and roasted vegetables are served in dips, salads, stews, appetizers, sides and light main dishes. The most popular vegetables used in Persian cooking are zucchini, eggplants, okra, fennel, cucumbers, celery, chickpeas, peppers, beets, carrots, leeks, onions and shallots. Salads feature simple vinaigrettes of olive oil and lemon or lime juice. The pomegranate is one of the hallmark ingredients of Persian cuisine and is important symbolically in Jewish art and rituals. The seeds are sprinkled over many dishes or pressed into a refreshing juice. Sugar and sometimes a squeeze of lemon is added to pomegranate juice before it’s boiled down into a thick molasses or syrup to be used in a variety of dishes. Among the long list of spices, herbs and seeds essential to the Persian kitchen are cumin, cardamom, saffron, turmeric, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, fenugreek, sesame and nigella seeds, dried and fresh mint, cilantro and dill. Spice blends are popular, such as cardamom, ginger and cinnamon for charoset, sometimes with a dash of vinegar added for a sweet and savory taste. Baharat, which means “spices” in Arabic, is a mixture that varies geographically and often includes cinnamon, cardamom, black pepper, nutmeg, paprika, cumin, cloves and/or coriander. Dessert nearly always includes a fresh fruit platter along with a sweet or two and Persian chai tea. Popular desserts include apricots in cardamom and vanilla-scented syrup; delicate rice flour cookies (recipe follows); and halva, which is also often found as part of the Purim gifts of mishloach manot. Persian halva, however, is quite different from the sesame halva found in Israel and the Mediterranean. In Persia, it’s made with a cooked oil and flour dough soaked in sweet sugar syrup that is flavored with saffron, cardamom and rose water. What could be more deliciously perfect for Purim than a flavorful feast evoking the Persian setting of this timeless holiday story?

Note: Ingredients such as pomegranate molasses, date syrup and fenugreek can usually be found online and at Persian, Indian and other Middle Eastern stores as well as some kosher markets.

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FROM THE NEAR EAST COMES A SPECIAL TREAT.

k o o C d e e S y p Rice Flour Pop

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PERSIAN FEAST: FIT FOR KINGS & QUEENS

FES

ENJAN

CHICKEN IN WALNUT POMEGRANATE SAUCE

Fesenjan Serves 6-8 This classic sweet and savory dish is popular at PersianJewish occasions, as well as at Shabbat and holiday dinners. Most often made with chicken, chunks of lamb or beef can be used instead — just brown the meat first and then cook slowly in the flavorful sauce. As with many Persian recipes, pomegranate is a key ingredient and walnuts are used for flavor, texture and to help thicken the sauce. 2 cups walnut pieces 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 large onion, diced 8-10 skinless chicken thighs, with or without bones 3 cups chicken broth 1 teaspoon turmeric 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper ¾ cup pomegranate molasses ½ cup silan (date syrup) or ¼ cup sugar, or to taste ¼-½ cup fresh pomegranate seeds Fresh parsley, chopped

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Preheat oven to 350°F. Spread walnuts in a single layer on a parchment-lined baking sheet and toast for 8-10 minutes. When cool enough to handle, pulse walnuts in a food processor or blender until ground to a fine consistency, but stop before it becomes a powder or nut butter. Add oil to a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven set over medium-low heat. Add onions and sauté, stirring occasionally, until onions just begin to turn golden brown but are still soft, about 15-20 minutes. Add chicken and mix well to coat with the onions. Add chicken broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 30 minutes if using boneless chicken, 45 minutes if using bone-in. In the meantime, combine ground walnuts, turmeric, cinnamon, salt and pepper. Mix with just enough cooking liquid from the chicken to form a paste-like consistency. When the chicken is done, add the walnut-spice mixture and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring continuously. Add pomegranate molasses and silan or sugar. Stir and return to a boil for a few minutes. Reduce heat to low. Cover partially and cook over low heat for 45 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan every 15 minutes to prevent scorching and to keep the walnuts from sticking to the bottom of the pan. Uncover and adjust seasonings to taste. Cook uncovered until sauce is thickened, about another 15 minutes. Spoon chicken onto a deep platter and top with extra sauce. Garnish with pomegranate seeds and chopped parsley just before serving.

PERSIAN-SPICED FISH

Advieh Serves 6 Advieh is a popular Persian spice blend that can be used on fish, rice, roasted vegetables and braised meat and is an easy way to bring rich Persian flavors to fish. The bed of lemons adds a nice acidic tone to the fish; since they soften nicely during cooking, they look and taste good when served with the fish. You can use a firm white fish such as cod or halibut, either a large, center-cut portion or individual fillets. 2 pounds skinless salmon 1-2 lemons, thinly sliced, plus more for serving 1 teaspoon coriander 1 teaspoon ground cardamom 1 teaspoon ground rose petals (optional) 1 teaspoon cumin ½ teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon turmeric ½ teaspoon garlic powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Pinch of cayenne pepper, optional 2 tablespoons olive oil ½-1 cup chopped fresh herbs such as parsley, dill, cilantro and chives

Preheat oven to 425°F. Prepare a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Loosely shingle lemon slices on the baking sheet and lay the fish directly on top of the lemon slices. Leave any extra uncovered lemon to roast as the fish cooks. Combine coriander, cardamom, ground rose petals (if using), cumin, cinnamon, turmeric, garlic powder, salt, pepper and cayenne (if using). Add oil and stir to mix well, forming a thick paste. Spoon the mixture over the top of the fish and spread to cover evenly. Cook for 20-22 minutes for one large piece of salmon, 12-14 minutes for individual pieces of fish. Carefully transfer cooked fish to a serving platter, trying to keep the lemons intact. Scatter chopped fresh herbs on top or serve on the side for a more traditional preparation. Serve with wedges of fresh lemon.

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L E T ’S G E T KU

PERSIAN FEAST

RICE FLOUR POPPY SEED COOKIES

PERSIAN GREENS CASSEROLE

Kuku Sabzi Serves: 6-8 A kuku in Persian cooking is an egg-based, vegetarian dish similar to a frittata, but with a higher herb/vegetable to egg ratio. Kuku sabzi can be served as the star of a vegetarian meal or alongside any protein. It’s even great for breakfast! Serve warm or at room temperature with sliced radishes, yogurt, mint and flatbread. Heating the pan with the oil in the oven helps create a crust on the bottom of the casserole. 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 1 bunch fresh parsley 1 bunch fresh dill 2-3 leeks, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced (about 3 cups) 2 small or 1 large head romaine lettuce, thinly sliced (about 2 cups) 4 cups packed baby spinach, chopped 1 bunch scallions, minced 2 tablespoons matzah meal 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon coriander

Nan Berenji Yields: 3 dozen cookies Persian Jews eat these delicate, gluten-free cookies for Purim, while all Persians traditionally enjoy them at Norouz, the Persian New Year. As we crush the poppy seeds between our teeth, we think of the name of Haman being destroyed. These cookies are even better served with a cup of Persian chai tea or Turkish coffee. 1 teaspoon turmeric ½ teaspoon dried fenugreek, optional Pinch of ground nutmeg, optional ⅓ cup almond or walnut meal 6 eggs, beaten Preheat oven to 350°F. Add 2 tablespoons oil to a 9x13-inch baking dish or a 11x14-inch baking dish for a thinner casserole. Place in the oven to heat up. Slice off the thick stems of the parsley and dill and discard (or reserve for making stock). Finely chop herbs and combine with leeks, lettuce, spinach and scallions. In a separate bowl, combine matzah meal, salt, pepper, cumin, coriander, turmeric, fenugreek, nutmeg and nuts; mix well to combine. Add beaten eggs and mix well. Add egg mixture to vegetables and mix until fully combined. Once pan and oil are very hot, work quickly to pour in the mixture and spread evenly throughout the dish. Brush top with remaining tablespoon of oil. Bake until top is crisp and edges are golden brown, about 45 minutes. Let cool for about 10 minutes before slicing. Freezes well.

1 egg 1 cup confectioners’ sugar ½ cup vegetable oil 2 tablespoons rosewater or orange blossom water 1¼ cup superfine rice flour ¼-½ cup poppy seeds

frothy. Add sugar and beat until mixture becomes pale yellow. Add oil and rosewater and beat until just combined. Using a wooden spoon, add rice flour 1 cup at a time, blending well after each cup, until just combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight. Preheat oven to 350°F and line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Form 1-inch balls and arrange on baking sheets. Use your thumb to make an indent in the top of each cookie and fill with a good pinch of poppy seeds. Bake until just barely starting to brown, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, beat the egg until light in color and

COOKBOOK REVIEW TITLE: Persian Food from the Non-Persian Bride AUTHOR: Reyna Simnegar | PUBLISHER: Feldheim PAGES: 374 | PRICE: $39

ritten from the viewpoint of Reyna Simnegar, a Venezualean woman who married into a Persian Jewish family, Persian Food from the Non-Persian Bride includes a diverse array of Persian food and other Sephardic recipes to provide a wonderful mix of food inspiration. The book offers an excellent read, beginning with a historical tale of the Jews of Iran, to Reyna’s unique story of discovering her family were Anusim (Moranos, Crypto Jews), to meeting her husband and learning how to cook authentic Persian Jewish food. There is a comprehensive list of spices and ingredients crucial to Persian cooking and the stories she shares are both inspirational, funny and memorable. The recipes are divided into chapters including appetizers and side dishes; fish and soups; poultry and meat; Persian rice (about 40 pages are dedicated just to rice!); dairy foods, egg dishes and snacks; Persian beverages and desserts. This book is great for those looking to explore Persian cuisine and is relatable enough for a beginner cook to tackle.

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PERSIAN FEAST: FIT FOR KINGS & QUEENS

HERB, SPICE AND PERSIAN RICE. TAHDIG YA DIG? CRUSTY DILL AND LIMA BEAN RICE

Baghali Polo Serves 8-10 Persian rice is famous for its tahdig — that crisp golden crust from the bottom of the pot that is inevitably fought over by appreciative diners. Don’t be put off by the prospect of making rice with tahdig. Not only is it worth the time and effort, but nonstick pots and pans make releasing the crust easier. Although it’s quite satisfying when your tahdig comes out whole, don’t fret if it breaks. Just arrange the pieces on top of the rice.

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2 cups white basmati rice 2¼ teaspoons kosher salt, divided, plus more for serving 1¼ cups chopped fresh dill or ½ cup dried dill 1½ cups frozen baby lima beans, thawed ⅓ cup vegetable oil ½ teaspoon turmeric Flaky sea salt, for serving Place rice in a fine mesh sieve and rinse under cold water. Set the strainer in a large bowl and cover rice with water by a few inches. Let soak for 30 minutes, then swish it around a few times with your hand. Drain and rinse rice under cold running water until water runs clear. Set aside to drain. Meanwhile, bring 8 cups of water and 1 teaspoon salt to boil in a 5-quart pot with a tight fitting lid. Add drained rice, stir and return to a boil. Reduce heat to medium so that the pot doesn’t boil over. Cook, uncovered, for 3-4 more minutes until it is al dente — soft but not fully cooked. Immediately drain rice in the strainer and run it under cold water to

cool and stop the cooking. In a large bowl, combine cooled, drained rice with dill and 1 teaspoon salt; mix gently to combine. Reserve 2 cups of rice and combine with lima beans in a separate bowl. Choose a nonstick pot or skillet that has a lid that fits and catches the condensation so the rice doesn’t get mushy as it steams. Spread a large, clean, thin dish towel out on a flat surface, place the lid in the center and bring the ends up around the top of the lid. Use a rubber band to tie the top of the towel together over the lid or just gather dish towel around the lid of the pan. Heat oil, turmeric and ¼ cup water in the skillet over medium heat until it reaches a simmer, then turn off the heat. Using a rubber spatula, gently spread the dill rice into the skillet so that it covers the entire bottom evenly. Make sure the edge is clean and circular. Sprinkle with remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. This mixture forms the tahdig layer.

Mound the lima bean rice over the tahdig layer to a high point in the middle. Use the handle of a wooden spoon to poke a few holes in the mound, stopping each time just before you reach the tahdig layer, as well as you can. Cover the pan with the towel-wrapped lid and cook over medium-high heat for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to simmer and continue cooking for 50 minutes. Remove from heat and carefully remove lid so no condensation drops back onto the rice. Let rest for a few minutes, then use a spatula or offset spatula to gently loosen the edges of the tahdig from the pan. Place a large round platter (bigger than the pot) over the pot and invert the rice onto the platter. Alternatively, scoop rice onto a serving platter, leaving the bottom tahdig layer intact in the pan. Invert tahdig onto a plate and then slide over the scooped rice. Sprinkle with salt before serving, if desired.

Susan Barocas is a writer, cook, teacher and speaker. She is passionate about healthy eating, Jewish food and Sephardic cuisines and history. She is dedicated to building understanding and connections between people through food. Susan is the founding director of the innovative Jewish Food Experience and has served as the guest chef for three of President Obama’s White House seders. Find her on Facebook or Instagram @susanbarocas.

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PERSIAN FEAST: FIT FOR KINGS & QUEENS

Persian Inspired BY SHIFRA KLEIN

In preparation for the Purim shoot, my pantry was overflowing with Persian ingredients. As I was reading through Susan’s traditional Persian recipes, I was inspired to utilize the flavors and ingredients in dishes that are traditionally served in most homes every Shabbos and Yom Tov. In preparation for the shoot, I created a Persian-inspired version of Israeli salad seasoned with dried mint; a roasted eggplant salad with caramelized onions, dill and pistachios; and a floral bundt cake spiced with cardamom. It’s always exhilarating to create a fusion of cuisines and inspire home cooks to incorporate exotic ingredients into everyday cooking.

PERSIAN-INSPIRED CAKE Serves: 10 This cake, infused with the flavors of lemon and cardamom, isn’t something you would necessarily find at a Persian grandmother’s home, but it celebrates the flavors of Persian cooking. If you’re not afraid of floral notes, use rosewater instead of vanilla extract. Note: Another great unexpected addition is saffron — simply mix 1 teaspoon saffron threads with 1 tablespoon hot water and add to the batter. Cake: ½ cup olive oil Zest and juice of 3 lemons (about ½ cup juice) ¾ cup sugar 2 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract or rosewater 2 cups all purpose flour ½ cup almond flour 1 teaspoon ground cardamom 1 teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon kosher salt

Glaze: 1½ cups confectioners’ sugar Zest of 1 lemon, plus more for garnish Juice of 1 lemon (about 2 tablespoons juice) ¼ teaspoon ground cardamom Dried rose petals, for garnish, optional Preheat oven to 350°F. Spray a 9-inch bundt pan or cake pan with cooking spray and set aside. In a large bowl, combine olive oil, lemon zest and juice, sugar, eggs and vanilla or rosewater. In a separate bowl, mix flour, almond flour, cardamom, baking soda and salt. Add to wet mixture in batches, mixing until just incorporated. Pour batter into greased pan and bake until a skewer inserted into the cake comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Let cool. Whisk glaze ingredients together. Once cake is cooled, top with glaze. Garnish with lemon zest and dried rose petals, if desired.

PERSIAN CHOPPED SALAD Serves: 8 There is nothing more refreshing than a simple chopped salad. The addition of dried mint takes this familiar salad to another level. 2 (10-ounce) containers grape tomatoes or 3 large tomatoes, diced 2 Persian cucumbers, diced 1 small red onion, diced Juice of 2 lemons 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 teaspoons dried mint 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Fresh herbs, for garnish Combine all ingredients. Serve immediately or refrigerate and serve within 8 hours.

PERSIAN-INSPIRED EGGPLANT Serves: 6 The simplicity of the flavors in this dish makes it the perfect salad to serve alongside almost anything. Serve with toasted flatbread or pita for an irresistible dip.

1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided 1 clove garlic, minced Juice of 1 lemon ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ cup chopped parsley ¼ cup chopped dill ⅓ cup pomegranate seeds, for garnish ⅓ cup chopped pistachios or walnuts, for garnish Preheat oven to 400°F. Pierce eggplant with a fork and place in a baking dish. Roast until very tender, about 30-40 minutes. Meanwhile, add 2 tablespoons oil to a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add onions and ½ teaspoon salt and sauté until caramelized, about 20-30 minutes. Peel eggplant and combine flesh with onions, garlic, lemon juice, 2 tablespoons oil, 1 teaspoon salt and pepper. Gently fold in fresh herbs and top with pomegranate seeds and pistachios.

1 large eggplant ¼ cup olive oil, divided 2 onions, sliced 36

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PERSIAN FEAST

d e r i p s n I Persian-

Lavash Bread Lavash is a super thin and long flatbread popular in Iran and other Middle Eastern countries. It is available in Middle Eastern markets and pas yisrael under brands such as Galil. It can be as big as 2 feet long! Use in place of pita for dips.

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DESSERTS

RIPT SC

IP TH E

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& SAVO RY PURIM TREATS RECIPES BY MIRIAM PASCAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCHNEUR MENAKER

e teamed up with bestselling cookbook author Miriam Pascal to create a series of surprising, unexpected treats just in time for Purim — the season of surprises. It is, in fact, a holiday all about vinahapoch hu, which translates to mean “upside down.” To celebrate this theme, we added Fleishigs elements to some of Miriam’s favorite and most popular desserts, with updated recipes from her bestselling cookbooks Something Sweet, Real Life Kosher Cooking & More Real Life Kosher Cooking. Feel free to make Miriam’s classic versions if adding beef fry to chocolate chip cookies or corned beef to fruit crumble is not for you. Both versions are equally delicious.

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DESSERTS

Cherry Hand Pies

This cherry pie filling is easier than you think. It can also work as a sauce for a fruit crumble, ice cream or warm chocolate cake.

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Customize Shapes: Easily transform these hand pies into the most amazing hamantaschen by placing filling in the center of the rounds and forming into the traditional hamantaschen shape.

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LETâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S GET READY TO CRUUUUUMBLE.

Peach Crumble This is a really fun update to a traditional apple crumble. I served this when I hosted a bunch of friends and it was the hit of the evening. During the winter, I use frozen peaches, which are frozen at the peak of the season. This crumble also freezes well.

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PEACH CRUMBLE Yields: 8 servings 4 peaches, sliced (or a 10-ounce bag frozen peaches) ¼ cup sugar Juice of ½ lemon 2 tablespoons bourbon 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Crumb Topping: 2 cups flour 1 cup old fashioned or rolled oats ½ cup sugar ½ cup brown sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 stick (½ cup) non-dairy butter substitute, at room temperature

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x13-inch baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. In a medium bowl, toss peaches with sugar, lemon juice, bourbon, cinnamon and vanilla. Stir to coat and set aside. Prepare the crumb topping: In a second bowl, combine flour, oats, sugars and salt. Add vanilla and butter. Mix with your hands, breaking up the butter until

coarse crumbs form. Spread slightly less than half of the crumb mixture into the prepared pan and press down to form a crust. Spread the fruit mixture over the crumbs. Sprinkle remaining crumbs over the fruit, distributing evenly to make sure that fruit is fully covered in crumbs. Bake for 40-50 minutes, until crumbs feel solid.

MAKE IT FLEISHIGS: Add ½ cup of finely chopped honey-glazed corned beef to the crumb topping.

HONEY-GLAZED CORNED BEEF Preheat oven to 400°F. Spread 1 package sliced corned beef on a baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons honey and cook for 15 minutes. Let cool, then finely chop. Add to crumble and bake as directed.

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DESSERTS

Cherry Hand Pies

Chocolate Chip Cookies

This recipe makes just enough filling for a traditional 9-inch pie. When using the filling for the hand pies, you will have about 1 cup leftover, which can be stored in the fridge for 3 days.

It's always been important for me to listen to reader's input and create recipes they're going to like. So when the requests for a margarine-free cookie recipe came pouring in, I knew I had to listen. I put the recipe up on my blog, where it's been viewed (so far!) by almost a quarter of a million people! Whether you prefer to bake without margarine, simply don't have it on hand or are looking for a quicker, less fussy recipe, you'll be in good company when enjoying these cookies. MAKE IT FLEISHIGS: Add 1 cup finely chopped candied bacon with the chocolate chips for an unexpected surprise. Yields: 2 dozen cookies ¾ cup oil ¾ cup brown sugar ¼ cup sugar 1 egg 1 egg yolk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon kosher salt 1¾ cups flour 1 cup chocolate chips Smoked Maldon salt, optional In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream oil, sugars, egg and egg yolk until incorporated. Add vanilla, baking soda, salt and flour and beat until just combined. Fold in chocolate chips. Scoop dough onto baking sheets, leaving 2 inches between each one. Top with Maldon salt, if using.

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Refrigerate for 1-24 hours. Preheat oven to 375°F. Bake for 9-10 minutes, until just set. Transfer cookies to cooling racks to cool.

Candied Beef Bacon 1 (4-ounce) package beef fry ¼ cup brown sugar In a large sauté pan set over medium heat, add beef fry and cook until fat renders, about 5-6 minutes. Add sugar and cook another 3-5 minutes, stirring often until sugar is melted and begins to caramelize. Let cool, then finely chop and add to chocolate chip cookie recipe as directed.

Yields: 24 hand pies 2 cups pitted cherries (fresh or frozen) Zest and juice of 1 lemon ½-⅓ cup sugar 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 batch No-Fail Flaky Pie Crust (recipe follows) 1 egg, beaten Add cherries, lemon zest and juice, sugar and 2 tablespoons water to a saucepan; bring to a boil. Dissolve cornstarch in 1 tablespoon water and add to the pot. Simmer until thickened,

about 30 minutes. Cover and refrigerate to cool. Preheat oven to 375°F. Dust flour on a work surface and roll out pie dough. Using a 4-inch cookie cutter, cut dough into rounds. Place 1 tablespoon cherry pie filling onto the bottom half of each dough round. Fold over and crimp edges using a fork. Place on parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush with beaten egg. Bake until golden brown, about 25 minutes.

No-Fail Flaky Pie Crust Of all the varieties of homemade dough, there is none I love to make more than good old-fashioned flaky pie crust. Although people tend to be intimidated by the idea of homemade pie dough, once you understand the basics, you’ll see how easy it is and you’ll make it again and again. MAKE IT FLEISHIGS: Replace ½ cup (1 stick) of non-dairy butter substitute with ½ cup chilled duck fat. 2 cups flour 2 tablespoons sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt 2 sticks (1 cup) cold nondairy butter substitute, cubed 5-7 tablespoons ice water In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the “S” blade, add flour, sugar and salt. Pulse for a few seconds to combine. Drop in the butter, distributing evenly over the surface. Pulse until the butter is partially incorporated. There should be crumbs of varying sizes. Do not overmix. Add 5 tablespoons ice water and pulse for 1-2 seconds at a time until a crumbly dough forms. You want the dough to just come together when you pinch it. If needed, add 2 more tablespoons water for dough to form. Do not add too much water, as that will ruin the texture of the dough.

Do not overwork the dough; it will be slightly crumbly at this point, but will come together as it chills. Wrap the dough in parchment paper and place in a Ziploc bag. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, preferably overnight. NOTES: 1. Keep the ingredients cold. Cold ingredients result in a flaky crust, so freeze butter and use ice water. Even the flour can be refrigerated before making the dough. 2. Don’t overwork the dough. The less you work it, the more tender the crust will be. 3. Plan ahead. Most pies can be made ahead and frozen once completely baked. If you want to make the pie dough in advance, you can store it in the fridge for 2-3 days or in the freezer, well wrapped, for 1-2 months.

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L'CHAIM

TIME TO DRY YOURSELF A CUP

he secret to the latest cocktail trend is using dry ice, a solid version of carbon dioxide that registers at about -192°F. When it melts, it reverts back into gas. It is a magical ingredient that adds drama to any cocktail but also keeps cocktails extra cold — a win win all around.

Many stores, such as Walmart and Costco, carry dry ice. Simply order a small bag of pellets or cubes and extremely carefully, while wearing weatherproof or heavy duty gloves, place the pellets into the cocktail glasses before pouring your drink. We used this method to add a smoking element to a ginger beer whiskey cocktail and a coffee liqueur tahini shake.

WARNINGS & INFO: 1. Store in a small cooler. You don’t want dry ice hanging around in your freezer as it can cause damage to the freezer. 2. Do not store in an enclosed space like a car or garage as carbon dioxide levels can increase to dangerous levels. 3. Don't store directly on countertop or table as it can damage surfaces. 4. Keep away from children. 5. Dispose of dry ice by allowing it to melt in a well ventilated area. 6. Wait for smoking to come to a complete stop before drinking the cocktail. It may be tempting, but drinking the cocktail while still smoking can be extremely dangerous.

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7. Wear heavy duty gloves when handling the dry ice.

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L'CHAIM

Serves: 4 This cocktail is so simple, you most likely already have the ingredients on hand. If you are looking for a slightly sweeter flavor profile, swap in ginger ale for the ginger beer, although it will have a significantly less gingery flavor.  Note: Ginger beer is a non-alcoholic carbonated beverage with a strong, slightly spicy ginger flavor. Look for the Reed’s brand, which is certified kosher, in specialty stores and many national groceries.

 Note: If using dry ice, drop pellets into the glasses before pouring. 1 (12-ounce) bottle ginger beer 1 cup whiskey or bourbon ¼ cup fresh lime juice ½ lime, sliced, for garnish Pour ginger beer, whiskey and lime juice into a pitcher. Stir to combine. Pour into 4 glasses filled with ice. Serve garnished with sliced lime.

SMOKED, NOT STIRRED

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L'CHAIM

This boozy cocktail is like a grown-up milkshake that comes together in no time.  Note: If using dry ice, drop pellets into the glasses before pouring.

Serves: 4 ⅓ cup pure tahini 1 cup vodka ½ cup coffee liqueur, such as Misceo ½ cup prepared strong coffee Blend all ingredients together with ice until a thick milkshake-like consistency is reached. Pour into 4 glasses.

"WE WON’T HOK YOU A TSHAYNIK, BUT WE’LL DRY DIR A CUP."

Turn to page 82 for a smoking rosé sangria. 48

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DRINK SOMETHING RIGHTEOUS AT YOUR TABLE @RighteousRoadCraftSpirits • www.righteous-road.com Righteous Road® Craft Spirits • St. Louis, MO

CULINARY SCHOOL

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CULINARY SCHOOL

H A L L A H C FUN FILLED CHALLAH IDEAS FOR PURIM 2020

A Z N A G A V A R T E X O BY R

EP CHI

INS

IS THERE ANY FOOD T H AT ISN’T BETTER ST U F F E D ?

e can all agree that turkey, zucchini, eggplant and cabbage are all excellent vessels for stuffing, but you know what’s even better? Anything stuffed into dough. Hidden stuffings have deep significance on many of the Jewish holidays — particularly on Purim, when stuffing dough is practically a mitzvah!

The delicious filling that is hidden within the dough symbolizes Hashem’s miracles that were hidden in the story of Purim, otherwise known as Megillas Esther, which reads like a great play. It’s full of twists and turns and intriguing characters, but it’s a much deeper story than it seems at first. The fact that Hashem’s name isn’t mentioned at all within the megillah makes us look a little closer, peel

away the masks and find the hidden miracles within the seemingly “natural” progression of mundane incidents that make up the Purim miracle. The kreplach floating in our soup and the hamentashen oozing with sticky fruit reminds us to look deeper within our everyday lives. It may look like regular dough on the outside, but open it up and see the wonders that are inside!

Between kreplach and hamentashen, we have plenty of traditional stuffed dough goodies, but since challah is kind of my jam (and yes, I stuff it with that too), I try to incorporate it into every holiday and Purim is no exception. So here is a stuffed challah roundup to feature at your Purim seudah or include in your Mishloach Manot this year. Enjoy!

Rochie Pinson is a rebbetzin and Chabad emissary in downtown Brooklyn. She is also a mother, artist and author of a gorgeous and comprehensive challah cookbook entitled Rising! The Book of Challah (Feldheim, 2017). Rochie brings a unique blend of wisdom, spiritual awareness and down-to-earth practicality to the mitzvah of challah. Her voice is humorous and wise and her energy is infectious. She lectures and leads challah workshops and seminars around the world. You can follow her and her challah journey through her website at www.therisinglife.net and on Instagram @rochiepinson. FEBRUARY 2020

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CLASSIC CHALLAH WITH A PURIM TWIST

Yields: 24 challah rolls This recipe will work for all the rolls featured here. For some of them, use the recipe as is. For others, add extra ingredients where indicated. For this quantity, challah is separated without a blessing. 2 cups warm water ¾ cup sugar 4½ teaspoons active dry yeast 7½ cups all-purpose unbleached flour, divided 1½ tablespoons sea salt ½ cup canola oil, plus more for greasing 2 large eggs 1 egg yolk, for glazing Lemon Poppy Dough Add-Ins: ¼ cup poppy seeds 2 teaspoons vanilla extract ½ teaspoon lemon extract Zest of 2 lemons

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Halva Dough Add-Ins: ½ cup shredded halva ¼ cup sesame seeds 1 teaspoon almond extract ½ teaspoon vanilla extract

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Pour warm water into a large bowl. Add sugar and yeast. Set aside for a few minutes to allow the yeast to bloom. Add 4 cups flour and salt; mix until a smooth batter forms. Add oil and eggs; stir again until smooth. For the lemon poppy version: Add poppy seeds, vanilla extract, lemon extract and lemon zest. For the halva version: Add shredded halva, sesame seeds, almond extract and vanilla extract. Gradually add remaining flour, mixing with your hands or stand mixer until flour has been fully incorporated into the dough. Be sure to add only as much flour as needed to form a workable dough. Turn the dough out onto a hard surface and knead until the dough springs back when lightly touched, about 10 minutes. Pour 3-4 teaspoons of oil into the bowl.

Turn the ball of dough around in the oil until the outer layer of the dough has been thinly coated. Cover with plastic wrap or a warm, damp cloth and place in a warm spot to rise until it has doubled in bulk, about 1½-2 hours. Preheat oven to 350°F. Fill with filling of choice (recipes follow). Divide the dough and braid or shape as desired (see below for shaping directions). Place shaped rolls on a parchmentlined baking sheet. Beat egg yolk with 1 teaspoon water. Brush each challah with egg wash after braiding. Allow challahs to rise for an additional 30–45 minutes. Glaze challahs again with egg wash. Bake at 350°F for 25-27 minutes. Time will vary according to challah size. The challah is ready when its underside is lightly browned and crisp to the touch.

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THE KEYLITSCH (ROPE)

The Shape's Significance: There is a popular Sephardic tradition to twist the challah to resemble a rope, symbolizing the awful things we want to do to Haman. This is a fun way to twist up your challah tradition, literally. The Keylitsch Yields: 24 rolls 1 batch Classic Challah Dough 2 cups Lemon Poppy Filling Preheat oven to 350°F. Roll out dough into a 12x24-inch rectangle. Fill center third with poppy seed filling or halva filling. Fold the right side of the dough over the filled (center) portion. Spread additional filling over top of the dough. Fold the left side of the dough over the top so dough is sealed. Roll out to 1-inch thickness. Use a pizza cutter or sharp knife to cut dough into 8 strips. Twist each strip to form a twisted rope, then twist into a figure-8 shape and tuck ends underneath. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet and let rise for an additional 30 minutes. Bake for 25-27 minutes. Time will vary according to challah size. The challah is ready when its underside is lightly browned and crisp to the touch. Lemon Poppy Filling Yields: 2 cups Poppy is a popular old-world hamantaschen filling. This homemade version is better than any store-bought variety you can find. 1½ cups full-fat coconut milk 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Zest of 1 lemon

Zest of 1 orange 1 cup dry poppy seeds, ground in food processor ⅓ cup ground almonds ⅓ cup ground walnuts

Heat coconut milk, sugar, vanilla, lemon zest and orange zest in a saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil. Stir in ground poppy seeds and simmer for 5 minutes over low heat. Stir constantly to prevent sticking. Add ground nuts; stir to combine and remove from heat. Mix well and let cool. Halva Filling 1½ cups store-bought halva spread (or combine 1 cup crumbled halva, ¼ cup tahini, and ¼ cup silan) Crumbled or shredded halva

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THE FISH 56

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SALMON-STUFFED CHALLAH The Shape's Significance: The zodiac sign of the Hebrew month of Adar (during which Purim falls out) is the fish, which represents good fortune and reproduction. On Purim, the fish symbolizes all of that, plus the idea of the good that is hidden beyond our natural vision. All that fishy goodness swims out of sight and we have to go a little deeper to discover it. Yields: 2 challahs

Salmon Stuffing: 1 (14.75-ounce) can salmon, drained 2 scallions, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill ½ cup panko breadcrumbs ¼ cup mayonnaise Juice of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 large egg, beaten 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground pepper

Challah: 1 batch Classic Challah Dough 1 egg yolk, beaten, for glazing Sesame seeds, optional Salmon Stuffing: Mix all ingredients until just combined. Challah: Divide dough in half to create 2 fish challahs. See images for step-by-step guide on shaping. Brush with egg wash and sprinkle with sesame seeds, if using.

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DELI ROSES

The Shape's Significance: There is a famous poem/song that we sing after the Megillah reading. It is called “Shoshanat Yaakov,” aka The Rose of Jacob, which is what the Jewish nation is referred to in King Solomon’s Song of Songs. There is a tradition, stemming from Eastern Europe, to make the festive challah for the Purim feast in the shape of a flower to recall our status as the “Rose of Jacob.” Yields: 24 deli roses 1 batch Classic Challah Dough ⅓ cup yellow mustard Assortment of thinly sliced deli meats

HOW TO SHAPE ROSES:  Portion out 6-ounce balls of dough.  Divide each ball of dough into quarters.  Roll each portion to 4 inches long.  Brush mustard over each portion and add a slice of deli meat. Alternatively, to make halva roses, spread halva filling over dough and top with crumbled halva.  Roll up one portion of dough. Place it on top of one rolled out portion of dough and roll up again. Repeat with remaining dough to form a rose. Slice each rose in half.  Bake in greased muffin tins at 350°F for 20 minutes.

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FOLARES (*OR OJOS DE PURIM / EINEI HAMAN) The Shape's Significance: Most of us know about “Oznei Haman,” aka Haman’s ears (otherwise known as hamentashen), but did you know about “Einei Haman?” Translated to mean Haman’s eyes, it’s a tradition amongst many Sephardic communities to honor this. Moroccan Jews call it Einei Haman and Greek Jews of Rhodes called it Folares, but both of them (as well as other communities) put whole eggs into their challah on Purim. During the Purim meal, the eggs are pulled out from their “nests,” symbolizing the tearing out of Haman’s eyes! The Greek community put a little dough over the eggs to resemble a cage, so that the egg represents Haman stuck in jail. Either way, it’s a really fun tradition and a great way to bring extra symbolism into the Purim feast. 1 batch Classic Challah Dough 8 whole eggs 1 egg, beaten, for glazing Tomato dip, for serving (recipe follows) Preheat oven to 350°F. Portion out 9 balls of dough. Place a ramekin on a parchmentlined baking sheet. Place 8 balls of dough around the ramekin. Carefully make wells into the balls of dough and nestle an egg into each. Roll out the remaining ball of dough and cut 16 even portions, then roll each portion into a rope. Criss cross 2 ropes over each egg. Brush with beaten egg. Bake for 25-27 minutes. Time will vary according to challah size. The challah is ready when its underside is lightly browned and crisp to the touch. Serve with tomato dip in the center ramekin.

TOMATO DIP Yields: 1½ cups 2 large, ripe tomatoes Juice of ½ lemon 1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil Kosher salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste Hot sauce, optional Grate tomatoes on the large holes of a box grater. Add lemon juice and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. If you like it spicy, add a squirt of your favorite hot sauce. FEBRUARY 2020

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R A T

just got back from nine days in Spain, with Gibraltar as the midpoint of our trip — the perfect place for us to spend Shabbat. Although it does act as its own nation, Gibraltar is in fact a British territory with 33,000 residents. It’s a tiny peninsula connected to Spain and dominated by the large Rock of Gibraltar. While fewer than 1,000 in population, the (mainly Orthodox) English-speaking Sephardic Jewish community in Gibraltar is very visible with shuls, restaurants, a school and kosher market. The Jewish community is centrally located in the downtown area and is widely accepted amongst the locals.

BY DANI KLEIN

HISTORY CURRENCY  WHERE TO STAY  WHAT TO DO  WHERE TO EAT  Dani Klein is the founder of yeahthatskosher.com, a website all about kosher travel. Follow Dani @yeahthatskosher.

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The Barbary macaque monkeys of Gibraltar are the only wild monkey population in Europe.

TRAVEL

HISTORY  The history of Jews in Gibraltar dates back hundreds of years to the Jews who were expelled from Spain in 1492 by Isabella and Ferdinand; many fled to Morocco. The four Orthodox Sephardic shuls in Gibraltar are all beautifully ornate, most dating back 250-300 years. Spending Shabbat within the community allowed us to visit a number of these shuls for their regular services and we were invited for meals by locals as well. Exploring the history of this old community with warm and inviting local Orthodox families was something we truly appreciated.

WHAT TO DO  Gibraltar is like nothing I’ve ever experienced, especially in such a small area. Entering the peninsula, we were advised to leave our rental car on the Spanish side of the border, for good reason. There’s essentially no parking for non-residents; in truth, a car isn’t needed.

Jews' Gate Cemetery

• The Rock of Gibraltar is a must visit and can be done in 90 minutes with a tour or over the course of a whole day if you’re hiking, depending on how much time you have or want to spend there. The views from the top are breathtaking. Playing with the monkeys was a highlight for us and especially the kids. • The downtown area is a strip of shopping with lots of Britishimported products for those seeking a bit of England near Spain. Main Street is typically busy during the day, packed with locals and tourists from Spain and cruises, but it is quite dead at night.

WHERE TO EAT 

Main Street in downtown Gibraltar

Gibraltar has two kosher restaurants and one kosher bakery, all located in the central downtown area.

CURRENCY  Gibraltar uses the British Pound, although they also accept the Euro (used in Spain). The acceptance of the Euro may be limited in the near future with “Brexit” affecting this British territory. Credit cards are widely accepted.

WHERE TO STAY 

Neftusot Yehuda Synagogue built in 1799

The area has apartment rentals and small hotels. Anything within a 10 minute walk of Main Street will be close enough to access all the shuls and kosher eateries. The Eliott Hotel is a posh hotel located within walking distance to all the Jewish sites and downtown.

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JJ Amar’s Bakery & Café serves as both the bakery and café in town, with two different locations. The bakery is open in the mornings and one of their specialties is delicious Morrocanstyle donuts called sfinj. The café is located on Main Street and boasts outdoor seating, breakfast through dinner hours and a full menu serving English breakfast, pizza, pasta, fish and chips, falafel and more. Tamid is the kosher meat restaurant in town and is located right next to the small kosher market on Bomb House Lane. Their menu is filled with Israeli and Moroccan dishes including salads, hummus, rice, falafel, steak, kebabs, tagine, schnitzel, shawarma and more.

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

Boris and Ed Safaniev 66

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A DOMA & STREATS FEAST It began the way so many stories do; a successful family living in Russia sacrifices everything to uproot their lives and bring their young children to America, with the hopes of offering their children a better life. Boris Safaniev was raised as an adventurous, food-loving, secular Jew in Long Beach, NY, attending public school and exploring every culinary avenue he could find. After college, Boris jetted off to Israel, looking for a good time and new opportunities to explore, but what he found there was inspiration and the woman who would eventually become his wife.

BY CHANA Z. WEISS

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fter returning to New York as a new Ba’al Teshuva (returnee to Jewish practice), Boris found that settling into his newly observant lifestyle was not as easy as it was in Israel, where almost all of the food you can find is kosher. “The biggest challenge that I had was kosher food,” reflects Boris. “I went from eating literally everything at all the best restaurants to looking around and thinking, ‘What is this? What did I sign up for?’ It’s been a real roller coaster ride.” One day, Boris drove by a commercial space for sale and decided to jump right in. He got his brother Ed on board this new venture and without any formal experience in the food industry, they set out to achieve their goal of establishing a great restaurant that just happens to be kosher, which is the motto they follow to this day. Just a short while later, Cork & Slice opened its doors; an upscale, modern pizza and wine bar, featuring artisan pies, housemade pasta dishes and a full bar. Customers immediately flocked to his Cedarhurst, NY restaurant, but Boris points out that the draw is not just about the food. “People are looking to fill their bellies, but they are also going out for the experience. You want to enjoy yourself — to have a cocktail, to have good food and to have laughs. It’s a social experience.” It was only a year and a half later that Boris felt the itch to create something new. “I got tired of eating pizza and pasta, so I said, ‘What’s next?’” Thus, Doma Land + Sea was born a few stores down; a high-end, yet ultra-hip

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Doma Sushi Platter

“We always try to do something different; we’ve taken inspiration from the non-kosher market and introduced things to the kosher world. "

and modern steakhouse, featuring the very best of the land and sea. The menu is constantly evolving, pushing diners to try something new, while raising the standards of kosher dining. “We always try to do something different; we’ve taken inspiration from the nonkosher market and introduced things to the kosher world. We didn’t create it and we don’t mind. Competition is healthy for any business because it makes everybody want to step up their game. I think one day I’ll be able to go to restaurants around the world and have great kosher food

wherever I go.” Boris doesn’t just talk the talk; only a year and a half later he opened his third establishment, just around the corner. Streats Food + Drink is a high-quality, fast casual restaurant featuring street food from around the world. The menu comes with a lower price point that seeks to cater to those who are on a budget, but still want that modern experience. It’s where a family can afford to come for dinner with the kids, and at the same time, where the adults can enjoy spending time together, cocktail in hand.

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Prime Rib

Signature Tomahawk

Peppercorn Fillet

Flanken Roast (see page 76 for recipe)

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It was at Doma that a diverse group of diners met on a cold December night for a journey through the menus of both meat restaurants. Land + Sea are represented as soon as you walk through the door, with mouthwatering cuts of beef hanging in an illuminated display case, today’s fresh-from-thesea catch nestled on a bed of ice below. Hanging vintage-style light bulbs, dark woodwork and vibrant pop-art portraits complete the rustic-chic vibe. The menu began with a taste of Streats, sampling classic international street foods. We started with the Tornado Potato, a skewered foot-long hot dog wrapped in a spiralized potato and deep fried, a popular street food item in Thailand, followed by a hot dog served Chicagostyle, in a classic bun with pickled jalapeños, tomato, relish and celery salt. Beef bulgogi with housemade kimchi offered diners a taste of Korea many had never had before. Next up was a classic American burger, topped with onion, lettuce, tomato and a creamy vegan cheese sauce made with nutritional yeast, as well as a fried chicken sandwich with slaw, straight from the South. Finally, a taste of home for the native New Yorkers — a Reuben-style sandwich featuring melt-in-your-mouth housemade pastrami, sauerkraut and vegan Swiss “cheese” on caraway rye. Conversations grew animated over flowing cocktails, ranging from sweet (try the Tali Bee, made with pineapple, passion fruit purée, orange vodka and grenadine) to stiff (order the Señor Davidson, a twist on an old fashioned with reposado, mezcal, agave, and orange bitters). “The 70

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men are polishing off their food over there, while the women here are talking too much to eat,” joked Shlomo Klein. In only the slightest of pauses, plates were cleared and glasses refilled as the menu took a turn into Doma territory. Doma’s opening act told us everything we needed to know about the restaurant; a striking and vibrant sashimi and sushi platter featuring the most beautiful fish, cut with precision. Using the simplest of ingredients, attention to detail and quality is crucial; every dish hit that mark. Next came an array of spicy fish tacos, with Chilean sea bass seasoned with freshly ground chiles and a housemade salsa macha enveloped in a fresh corn tortilla. “I think this was the best dish of the night,” commented fashion blogger Frumee Taubenfeld, as she reached for another. The menu transitioned from sea to land with cut-to-order beef tartare, served like an exquisite artist’s palette of unique colors, then expertly blended and turned into culinary magic before our eyes. Next up was a crispy duck

“When we first opened Cork & Slice, we really wanted to push it to the extreme, but people complained. They didn’t understand that handmade pasta doesn’t come in an enormous portion or that tuna is supposed to be served rare."

salad, followed by a unique lightly floured veal piccata, topped with capers and crispy fried artichokes. But the real showstoppers were yet to come: magnificent cuts of beef cooked to perfection, from a pink and glistening center-cut prime rib to a peppercorncrusted filet served with a rich jus and basil mashed potatoes and finally, the star of the show, a mammoth tomahawk steak with a delightfully crisp crust and a perfectly medium-rare interior. Amidst protests that they just could not eat any more, the guests managed to persevere their way through a final round of desserts, including fresh warm donuts accompanied by housemade sauces, an apple tostada topped with vanilla ice cream and berry coulis and an incredible sweet-yet-tart lemon meringue pie. “It doesn’t matter how full you are, you always have room for dessert,” said food blogger Melinda Strauss. “I was so impressed with the presentation and variety of dishes,” said event planner and designer Michal Weinstein, “but the highlight of my evening was being among the company w w w.f leishigs.com

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

Signature martini with Doma Land + Sea showcase in the background.

Guests enjoying Doma's signature tomahawk steak.

The warm Doma donuts are served with anglaise and chocolate sauces.

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The steak tartare at Doma is the most unique tartare preparation we have yet experienced. A punchy, acidic sauce lays in the center of the plate with an egg yolk on top. Addins like pickled mustard seeds, shallots, capers and herbs are placed around the sauce along with toasted bread and hand-chopped steak to create a stunning presentation of this oldschool classic.

of such talented bloggers.” The eclectic group may have come as strangers, but they left as friends. Despite all of Boris’ success, there are always setbacks. “The biggest challenge,” he says, “can be educating the consumers. You can add incredible dishes to the menu, but then people don’t order them. We have to strike a balance between giving them what they want and telling them what they should want to try.” As the parent of primarily chicken nugget and pizza consumers, Boris knows how frustrating it can be when you just want your children to appreciate good food and hopes one day they will come around. “It’s the same way I feel about my customers,” he adds. “When

we first opened Cork & Slice, we really wanted to push it to the extreme, but people complained. They didn’t understand that handmade pasta doesn’t come in an enormous portion or that tuna is supposed to be served rare. They wanted french fries, they wanted sushi.” At the end of the day, it is a business, so Boris has made a few concessions. French fries now appear on the menu, albeit with Parmesan and fresh herbs; a plain pie is available upon request. But Boris draws the line at sushi; you’ll never find that on the menu. No matter what he achieves, Boris remains humble. He credits the restaurants’ success to his amazing team, including his

“I’m the guy who does nothing but try to come up with some new ideas. My role is having fun, because if you don’t have fun, why do it?”

father, who handles the books; his brother Ed, who is hands on with the day-to-day tasks; and the incredible chefs who execute his vision of the menu. “I’m the guy who does nothing but try to come up with some new ideas. My role is having fun, because if you don’t have fun, why do it?” The restaurants are all within a one-block radius, which allows him to be on scene at all three. He may downplay his role in the enterprise, but as he greets each staff member with a jovial attitude and personally holds the door for a customer with a warm smile, it’s clear that Boris is the heart and soul of the operation. American dream, accomplished.

Chana Zelda Weiss is a full-time mom of 3, part-time program administrator and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL @thosesisterswhocook. 72

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Streats Reuben

Streats Tornado Potato

Streats Food + Drink is a high-quality, fast casual restaurant featuring street food from around the world. The menu comes with a lower price point that seeks to cater to those who are on a budget, but still want that modern experience. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s where a family can afford to come for dinner with the kids, and at the same time, where the adults can enjoy spending time together, cocktail in hand.

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STREATS BURGER Serves: 4 1 pound ground beef 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 cup shredded vegan cheddar cheese 4 hamburger buns ½ cup Streats sauce (recipe follows) Sliced pickles ½ cup caramelized onions (recipe follows) 1 tomato, sliced Romaine lettuce Divide ground beef into 4 patties. Season with salt and pepper. Add oil to a large sauté pan or cast iron pan set over medium-high heat. Add patties to the pan and using a metal spoon, indent the center of the patties. This helps the burgers cook evenly. Sear patties until golden brown and medium-rare, about 3 minutes per side. Top each burger with ¼ cup cheese and cover pan until cheese melts.

Prepare buns by toasting on each side. When ready to assemble, spread Streats sauce evenly on both the top and bottom buns. Layer pickles on bottom bun, then top with hamburger patties. Top each burger with 2 tablespoons caramelized onions, tomato and lettuce. Top off with bun and serve immediately. Streats Sauce: Combine 1 cup mayonnaise, ¼ cup ketchup, ¼ cup pickle relish, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon jarred white horseradish, 1 tablespoon hot sauce and a pinch of kosher salt. Caramelized Onions: Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add 3 sliced Spanish onions and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Sauté until onions start browning, about 10 minutes. Lower heat and cook until onions are golden brown and soft, about 20-30 minutes.

VERA CRUZ FISH TACOS Serves: 3 Tacos: 1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning 1 teaspoon olive oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ pound black seabass 6 soft corn tortillas ½ small head red cabbage, shredded ½ cup cilantro, chopped ½ red onion, sliced 1 red pepper, julienned Lime wedges, for garnish Microgreens, optional, for garnish Salsa: 4 chili de arbol peppers, seeded 2 serrano peppers, seeded 2 cloves garlic, minced ⅓ cup almonds ⅓ cup vegetable oil 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar ½ cup cilantro Kosher salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, taste

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Preheat oven to broil and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Combine Cajun seasoning, olive oil, salt and pepper and spread evenly over both sides of the fish. Lay fish on the prepared baking sheet and broil for 3-5 minutes. In the meantime, make the salsa. In a large saucepan, combine peppers, garlic, almonds and ¼ cup water. Set over medium heat and cook for 10 minutes, uncovered. Let cool. When the mixture has cooled to room temperature, pour into a blender and pulse until everything is chopped. Add oil, vinegar and cilantro and pulse for 5 seconds. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Assemble tacos with soft corn tortillas, fish and salsa, then top with red cabbage, cilantro, onions and pepper. Garnish with lime wedges and microgreens, if using. w w w.f leishigs.com

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VEAL PICCATA Serves: 2-4 2 (12-ounce) veal chops 1½ teaspoons kosher salt, divided ½ cup all-purpose flour Oil, for frying 3 cloves garlic, smashed ½ cup white wine 1 tablespoons capers ½ cup chicken stock ½ stick (4 tablespoons) non-dairy butter substitute Juice of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon fresh chopped parsley

Gently pound veal chops with a meat mallet. Sprinkle the veal chops with 1 teaspoon salt and lightly dredge in flour. Add ½-inch oil to a large sauté pan set over medium-high heat. Cook garlic until it becomes golden brown and fragrant, 3-4 minutes, then discard. Add the veal chops to the pan and cook for 2-3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. Add white wine and capers to deglaze the pan, picking up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. After the wine has reduced by half, add chicken stock. Season with remaining ½ teaspoon salt and cook until thickened. Add non-dairy butter and lemon juice and cook over medium heat for about 4 minutes. Pour sauce over veal chops and garnish with fresh parsley. FEBRUARY 2020

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FLANKEN ROAST Serves: 2-4 1 (4-pound) 3-bone short rib or flanken roast 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Place roast in a 9x13inch baking dish. Season with salt and pepper and refrigerate, uncovered, overnight. Preheat oven to 275Â°F. Place roast in center rack of oven and roast, uncovered, for 3 hours. Serve with fresh herbs, pickled mustard seeds, pickled chilies and slaw.

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Purim

TRENDING

Favorite Products 1. The New Amsterdam CBD Cream People swear by the effects of this product. At over $100 a pop, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s definitely an investment, but is said to work miracles for those suffering from muscle pain, eczema and psoriasis.

2. The New Amsterdam Tea An easy way to get a CBD fix, this tea comes in two varieties, chamomile and peppermint. Certified by the OU.

3. Kosher CBD Hemp Weed Looks and smells like marijuana, but without any of the psychoactive ingredients. No kosher certification required.

4. Shmeez This faux joint comes in a variety of flavors and offers calming benefits associated with CBD. No kosher certification required.

B D C

5. The New Amsterdam CBD Extract Drops

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These pure CBD drops are OU certified and available in various strengths. They are said to help with anxiety, muscle pain and arthritis.

6. Kosher CBD Mints OK certified CBD-infused mints.

7. Tauriga Sciences CBD-Infused Gum STAR-K certified gum that has calming effects.

Mendy Sacho, founder of Kosher CBD, with some of his favorite products.

BY EVE ELENHORN

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oday, health consciousness is much more of a concern than it was years ago. People, especially the younger generation, are gravitating towards natural and healthier alternatives to medicine to avoid harsh chemicals and potential side effects caused by traditional pharmaceuticals. There are many articles about CBD floating around; just recently, the Food and Drug Administration approved the first drug that uses CBD as its active ingredient to treat epilepsy. So what is CBD? And should we be using it? According to the FDA, CBD, or cannabidiol, is a chemical component of the cannabis sativa plant, more commonly known as marijuana. It does not contain the psychoactive part of the plant that is extracted from the flowers and buds of marijuana or hemp, known as THC, or tetrahydrocannabinol. Patients who use CBD or any drug that contains it will not experience intoxication or euphoria, the “high” that THC provides. CBD comes in different forms, such as oil, capsules and creams for topical use. CBD is commonly used for pain, sleep disorders, inflammation, anxiety, depression, ADHD,

effects for the drug to get the stamp of approval from the FDA. CBD is legal in 30 U.S. states with a prescription, including New York, but the treatment guidelines are not clear. As a healthconscious generation, patients need to advocate for themselves and ask plenty of questions to their healthcare professionals and CBD dispensaries. Why is it being prescribed? What is the dosage? Where is it made? What are the side effects? Are there any known drug interactions? Is it organic? Are there additives? Does the label list the ingredients clearly? Some CBD oil companies come highly processed, with added ingredients that can be tainted with toxic chemicals, pesticides or contaminants. Some products contain artificial flavors, colors, dyes and even corn syrup. If one chooses to go the CBD route for pain and ailments, it is recommended to use oil under the direction and assistance of a doctor. CBD oil should be genuine CBD, organic, made in the United States, thirdparty tested and free of pesticides, residue, bacteria and metal. The normal range

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We met with entrepreneur Mendy Sacho, the founder of the Kosher CBD brand and shop in Crown Heights, Brooklyn to talk about the most popular kosher CBD products currently on the market.

eczema and IBS. It is now officially proven and approved to help those who suffer from epilepsy. Cancer patients turn to CBD as well to counteract the negative side effects of chemotherapy.

for effective dosage can be anywhere from 250-1000 milliliters per ounce. CBD oils should only have the following additives: C02, ethanol (for processing) and a natural oil like olive or coconut oil.

A 2010 study in Germany concluded that CBD has anti-cancer properties and can promote brain cell regeneration. Nonintoxicating CBD products are changing the face of the herbal market and now pharmaceutical medicine. Although there is plenty more research to be done, the general healthcare reaction has been positive. Unfortunately, doctors and medical professionals do not have enough information about dosage, usage instructions, risk factors, drug interactions or long-term

It is extremely important not to mistake cannabidiol oil with hemp oil. Hemp oil has a low grade dose of THC, is not therapeutic or helpful with pain and comes with risks of contamination. Cannabidiol is a popular alternative to medicine. Figuring out how to make the most of its health-enhancing properties may involve some trial and error; it’s crucial to start slowly and work your way to a more consistent dose and not to cut corners when it comes to quality.

Eve Scaba-Elenhorn, is a Certified IIN Health Coach and founder of the Flavorful FIT Holistic Weight Loss Program. Follow Eve @flavorful_fit.

INTERVIEW:

MENDY SACHO When did you start Kosher CBD? About a year ago, Shlomi, my partner in our custom suit store Sartoria Sacho, told me he uses CBD cream for muscle pain. At the time I was training for a marathon, so I was intrigued. I began looking into CBD and learned that its benefits ran the gamut from alleviating muscle stiffness, skin ailments, anxiety, etc. The one thing that was missing in the CBD industry was the kosher factor.

What kashrut issues can you run into with CBD? While CBD is from a plant, it’s mixed with oils and additives that could potentially be non-kosher. That is why our company, Kosher CBD, has greater trust value, even among non-kosher customers. The kosher certification is a seal of value.

How do you balance this new venture and your store? It’s very challenging; the CBD shop is right next door, so I jump between both businesses — literally.

How have you benefited from CBD? A year ago my family had a house fire. CBD was the only thing that helped me sleep afterwards. Another favorite is the CBD cream I used after a marathon. It worked wonders to minimize the post-marathon impact and discomfort.

What are the most common issues customers come in for? Anxiety and sleeping are at the top of the list. We actually have a bud-tender (weed bartender) that runs our store and is able to help customers with any of their needs.

How can people order CBD products? They can come in person to our Crown Heights store, or order online at www.kosher-cbc.com. FEBRUARY 2020

Fleishigs

TOP 5: PERSIAN CUISINE!

Gabriel Boxer, aka The Kosher Guru, a travel and restaurant pro, shares his "Top 5" most memorable experiences in a specific category. This month, it's all about Persian food.

For the Purim issue, I thought it would be apropos to talk about Persian cuisine. Perhaps Achashverosh himself was the one who inspired the “King’s Platter” that is so popular in many Persian restaurants!

COLBEH With a few locations in New York (Great Neck, Manhattan and Roslyn), Colbeh is one of the most renowned restaurants specializing in authentic Persian cuisine. In business for over 35 years, Colbeh is a true pioneer in bringing Persian food to the masses. My favorite dish is the King Combo platter, which consists of a variety of chargrilled kabobs. The tahdig (crispy rice) is also always a winner. Great Neck: 75 North Station Plaza, Great Neck, NY (516) 466-8181 Roslyn: 1 The Intervale, Roslyn, NY (516) 621-2200 Manhattan: 32 West 39th Street, New York, NY (212) 354-8181

CHATANOOGA Chatanooga, located in Great Neck, NY, offers amazing and authentic Persian food, served

in huge portions. The Joojeh Kabob is truly unique and delicious — chicken marinated in lemon and saffron, then broiled to perfection. The Shirin Polo, a basmati rice dish with candied orange zest and almonds, is another standout. 37 Cutter Mill Road, Great Neck, NY (516) 487-4455

SHIRAZ A newer hotspot in Great Neck, NY, Shiraz serves authentic, well-priced Persian cuisine. They have excellent Bademjon, which is a Persian eggplant and meat stew. The Barg is outstanding — tender strips of spiced meat that have been grilled to perfection. The Sultani Barg in particular is so flavorful and the meat just melts in your mouth. 770 Middle Neck Road, Great Neck NY (516) 487-6666

rosebud food tour Kosher Food Tour Of Crown Heights www.rosebudfashiontour.com for reservations and information rosebudfashiontour@gmail.com

KOLAH FARANGI

SHMSHIRI

Kolah Farangi is located in the Pico-Robertson area of Los Angeles, CA, home to the second largest Persian community in the United States. This popular locale features a large dining area and offers many Persian dishes such as Beef Koobideh, Persian-spiced ground meat that is grilled and served with onions and roasted tomatoes. Their crispy tahdig is a sheer delicacy. To keep the rice crispy without burning, they add a layer of potatoes, which gives the potatoes a delicious, caramelized texture — talk about double duty!

Israel has a large Persian population and several authentic Persian restaurants. Shmshiri, a mehadrin spot in the Tel Aviv Yaffo area, is a small mom-andpop restaurant that serves authentic cuisine in a homey environment. From their ghondi (ground chicken meatballs) and kabobs to their stews and soups, it’s as if a Persian grandmother is personally cooking for you. Don’t miss their famous Ghormeh Sabzi, a classic Persian stew made with lots of herbs, spices and meat, served over assorted rice dishes that are delicacies on their own.

9180 West Pico Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA (310) 274-4007

99 Nachalat Binyamin Street, Tel Aviv, Yaffo 03-682-1018

FOLLOW THE KOSHER GURU on Instagram & Facebook @kosherguru, on Twitter @thekosherguru, his blog at www.thekosherguru.com, or subscribe to his YouTube channel. Tune in to “The Nosh” (a kosher foodie and restaurant radio show on 620AM in the NYC area) with Kosher Guru airing every Thursday evenings at 9:30 P.M. You can also check out his popular Facebook group @KosherGuru’sKosherNation.

Featuring Alenbi Bakerie Basil Benz’s Gourmet Brooklyn Artisan Bakehouse Gombos Bake Shop Izzy’s Brooklyn Smokehouse Izzy’s Taqueria Koshertown / Chef Shosh The Boozery

RECIPE INDEX CONDIMENTS 20 Dill Gremolata 20 Horseradish Mayo 25 Pico De Gallo 25 Avocado Crema 59 Tomato Dip 74 Streats Sauce 74 Caramelized Onions

EXTRAS 13 Oven-Baked Beef Fry 43 Honey-Glazed Corned Beef 44 Candied Beef Bacon 44 No-Fail Flaky Pie Crust 52 Lemon Poppy Dough Add-Ins 52 Halva Dough Add-Ins 55 Lemon Poppy Filling 55 Halva Filling

DRINKS 47 Tennessee Mule 48 Tahini Coffee Shake 82 Rosé Sangria

ROSÉ SANGRIA Serves: 8 The combination of fruity, slightly acidic rosé with citrusy winterfresh oranges is magical. If you can find blood oranges, we highly recommend using them, both for their unique flavor and presentation value. Note: If using dry ice, drop pellets into the glasses before pouring. ¼ cup sugar 2 oranges, sliced 1 bottle rosé wine ¼ cup brandy ¼ cup orange liqueur 1 cup orange juice

FISH 24 Salmon Avocado Spring Rolls 32 Persian-Spiced Fish 57 Salmon-Stuffed Challah 74 Vera Cruz Fish Tacos

SIDES

25 Pasta Chip Nachos 25 Potato Leek Knish Braid 33 Persian Greens Casserole 34 Crusty Dill and Lima Bean Rice 36 Persian Chopped Salad 36 Persian-Inspired Eggplant

MEAT

20 Persian-Spiced Shoulder Roast 20 Korean-Style Grilled Shoulder Roast 20 Barbecue Shoulder Roast 20 Orange Beef 24 Chicken Avocado Spring Rolls 25 Spice-Rubbed Skirt Steak 32 Chicken in Walnut-Pomegranate Sauce 74 Streats Burger 75 Veal Piccata 76 Flanken Roast

Mix sugar with ¼ cup water in a saucepan and cook over medium heat, until sugar completely dissolves. Set aside to cool the simple syrup. Place orange slices in an 8-cup pitcher. Add simple syrup, rosé, brandy, orange liqueur and orange juice to the pitcher. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours to chill. Serve over ice, if desired.

BREADS & SWEET TREATS 13 Sweet, Salty & Fleishigs Chocolate Bars 33 Rice Flour Poppy Seed Cookies 36 Persian-Inspired Cake 43 Peach Crumble 44 Chocolate Chip Cookies 44 Cherry Hand Pies

CHALLAH CONCEPTS 52 Classic Challah Dough 55 Keylitsch Challah 58 Deli Roses 58 Halva Roses 59 Folares 82

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PURIM WINE GUIDE

BY GABRIEL GELLER

here is a game that keeps getting more popular every year: the mishloach manot game. After all, we all enjoy giving out mishloach manot to our friends, relatives, rabbis and coworkers. However, there is often an inner feeling that the package is not “good” or “fancy” enough, whatever that means. Obviously, each and every one of us has his/her own sense of what is adequate to include in our personal Purim gift packages. And when it comes to wine, there is a growing diversity of options ranging from the inexpensive, simple wine all the way up to some of the finest kosher wines that are now available in small 187ml or 375ml formats. The most popular one remains to be the Bartenura Moscato in its signature blue bottle. If you want to go more sophisticated and yet appeal to those who like it sweet, you can choose to go with the delicious Hagafen Late Harvest Chenin Blanc, a great dessert wine that will be fun to pair with jelly-filled hamentaschen. For those who would still like to gift a sweet wine but go for something perhaps even more intriguing and complex, there is the fabulous Hagafen Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2009. All three of these are mevushal. For a non-mevushal option, a favorite of mine and perhaps even more original is the Covenant Zahav Late Harvest Chardonnay. Now, we should certainly not forget our dry wine loving friends, especially since the feast on Purim — according to many opinions and customs — requires meat. Thus, here is a selection of 375ml formats for some of the best kosher red wines, including both mevushal and non-mevushal options. Chateau Les Riganes (mevushal) is a very inexpensive yet wonderful Bordeaux wine that is meant to be enjoyed young. It goes well with dishes that are not too heavy such as a charcuterie platter. For the pièce de résistance, there are also options that are much fuller-bodied in a variety of styles and grape varieties that would pair wonderfully with a roast or steaks, including Celler de Capçanes Peraj Ha’abib (non-mevushal), Château Le Crock Saint-Estèphe (mevushal) and Herzog Special Reserve Lake County Cabernet Sauvignon (mevushal). L’chaim, Purim Sameach!

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RESOURCE GUIDE

Ingredients:

HOMEDGE SILICONE BREAK-APART CHOCOLATE BAR MOLDS

TILDA RICE A favorite brand in the Fleishigs test kitchen, this rice makes the most incredible tahdig. www.amazon.com $14.99

ROSEWATER Commonly used as an ingredient in beauty products and perfume, rosewater is a popular flavor enhancer in many Middle Eastern desserts and drinks. Nielsen Massey’s 4-ounce bottle is the perfect size as a little truly goes a long way. www.webstaurantstore.com $9.99

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This set of four silicone chocolate bar molds are BPA free, heat resistant and freezer friendly. We used the 8.35 x 4.1 x 0.4-inch ones and even designed chocolate wrappers to customize our Fleishigs chocolate treats. www.amazon.com $8.99

OXO STAINLESS STEEL MULTI-PURPOSE SCRAPER & CHOPPER A bench scraper is a great tool for portioning and scraping dough, as well as for lifting cookies from a baking sheet, cutting brownies and chopping firm vegetables like celery. Rochie proved how multi-purpose it was when she was preparing the various challahs she used it for. Convenient measurement markings allow you to evenly section dough for baking. www.thepeppermillinc.com $9.99

PERSONALIZED ROLLING PIN Inspired by the one Rebbetzin Rochie Pinson uses, make your own personalized rolling pin or gift one to a friend. Amazon offers personalized rolling pins that range from $35 and up. Similar models are widely available on Etsy as well.

SADAF POMEGRANATE MOLASSES Pomegranate molasses has a unique sweet and sour flavor that isn’t easy to substitute. But as Middle Eastern cuisine grows in popularity, it’s now much easier to find in many supermarkets and online. Sadaf’s website is also a great resource for many Persian ingredients. www.sadaf.com $7.99

Tools:

COOLING RACKS

KOSHER CBD MINTS This minty CBD-infused treat is calming as well. A fun mishloach manot addition. Kosher CBD Store. Crown Heights, Brooklyn. www.kosher-cbd.com

Cooling baked goods on racks is a crucial step to successful baking as cookies and pies need to cool with air circulating throughout. We also used them to make the chocolates; we placed the cooling racks over a baking sheet and used an offset spatula to scrape the chocolate. www.crateandbarrel.com $9.95

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THE EXPERT

Q: Is there a difference between regular cocoa and Dutch process cocoa? Are they interchangeable?

This month’s guest editor Miriam Pascal has collected some of the most common baking questions and answered them for us.

Q: Why do sweets and desserts call for salt? And what type of salt should I use? Q: Does it make a difference if I use disposable pans or metal ones when baking?

When you think of salt, I’m sure that sweet pastries aren’t the first thing that comes to mind! It’s important to understand, however, Absolutely! I originally realized what an exthat salt is integral to treme difference there was between the two baked goods, even when I baked cupcakes at a friend's house. She if they don’t taste didn’t have metal muffin pans, so we used dissalty. While salt has posable. The cupcakes took an extra 4-5 minutes a number of functo bake — I actually thought her oven was broken! tions (it’s integral The difference is in the heat conduction. Touch to the texture of a disposable pan 30 seconds after you remove it breads and other from the oven and it’s cool. Don’t try that with a doughs), the main metal pan because you’ll burn yourself. Metal function of salt in pans conduct heat better, which leads to sweets is as a flavor faster, more even cooking. If you’re used enhancer. The idea isn’t to baking with disposable pans and are to taste salt, but to enjoy thinking of switching, you’ll want to all the other flavors more. check on your food earlier than When I write recipes, I always you used to. include the type of salt that’s meant to be used in the recipe, as salts are NOT interchangeable. If a recipe you’re following doesn’t specify, a good rule to follow is to use kosher salt for cooking and sea salt for baking. Note that kosher salt has a coarser grain than table or fine sea salt, so it’s about half as salty.

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Although they seem similar, regular cocoa and Dutch process cocoa are very different. Dutch process cocoa is treated with alkaline, which neutralizes the acid in the cocoa. The result is a product that’s darker, richer and more intensely chocolate flavored. The two types of cocoa are not interchangeable in recipes. Baking is a science and by changing the chemical makeup of the cocoa (neutralizing the acidity), it changes the way it bakes. If a recipe doesn’t specify Dutch process, assume it calls for regular cocoa. Watch out for cocoa that is Dutch process, but not well-labeled as such. You’ll notice the darker color and sometimes the packaging makes reference to Holland or Dutch in an unclear way.

Q: Can I use oil instead of margarine? In general, making changes to baking recipes is a risk, because baking is so scientific that seemingly minor things can have a big impact on the end result. In terms of using oil to replace margarine, it comes down to texture. In applications like a frosting or a pie dough, the texture of the margarine is integral to the end product, so oil should not be used. When margarine is used as the fat in a recipe, such as a cake, but isn’t integral to the texture, oil can often be used instead. When replacing butter in a recipe, there’s an added factor to consider — flavor. If the recipe relies on butter as its dominant flavor, using oil may work texturally, but the end result will lack flavor.

Q: Is there a difference between dark brown sugar and light brown sugar? Which one should I use if the recipe doesn’t specify? The difference between light and dark brown sugar is in the amount of molasses in each one. Dark brown sugar has more molasses, which provides a stronger, sweeter flavor. In general, when a recipe doesn’t specify, the two are interchangeable, so you can decide if you want a stronger molasses flavor. Tip: If you’re out of brown sugar in the middle of baking, there’s no need to run out for some! Combine a cup of granulated sugar with a quarter cup of molasses. Stir until brown sugar forms.

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