Fleishigs Magazine Issue 013 - Dec 2019

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M E D I U M D O N E W E L L A W E ’ R E

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SHORT RIBS SHOULDN’T BE A TALL ORDER. page 34

ISSUE DEC. 2019

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HOSTESS WITH THE MOSTESS. PARTY LIKE YOU MEAN IT.

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WHEN SAMI MET SUSU: DESSERT TO DINE FOR.


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CONTENTS

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EDITOR’S LETTER

GIFT GUIDE The perfect gift for everyone on your list.

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COOKBOOK REVIEW An in-depth review of the latest cookbooks to hit the kosher market.

THE ART OF THE DINNER PARTY

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Entertain at home like a pro.

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Sami & Susu takes the restaurant dessert experience to the next level — and you can too!

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CORN DOGS

CHURROS What’s Chanukah without a fried delicacy? Switch it up with this South American classic.

Chef Isaac Bernstein shares his party-friendly corn dog recipe with variations to please a crowd.

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CULINARY SCHOOL A detailed profile on various oils.

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INTERVIEW Busy mother and entertainer extraordinaire Eda Schottenstein shares what has inspired her newest project, Multi-Role Woman.

BUTCHER’S CUT

This month, meat expert Naftali Hanau shares everything you need to know about veal scallopini.

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71 TRAVEL Miami

THE CELLAR A deeper look into Spain’s premier kosher estate winery, Clos Mesorah.

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COVER RECIPE Take classic American fair food to a savory place with Chef Isaac’s funnel cakes.

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RECIPE INDEX

TOP 5 Gabriel Boxer shares his favorite donuts to savor this Chanukah season.

Disclaimer: Due to the ever-changing landscape of the travel industry, names, locations and even kashrut can change on a dime. Consult with your local Rabbi to determine which hashgacha works with your lifestyle. Fleishigs does not take responsibility for the kashrut standards of the restaurants listed in this issue. 6

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DAY IN THE LIFE Donut Pop-Up Shop

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Perfect, Perfecto, Perfetto!

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editor's letter

CHANUKAH ISSUE

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein

“UNGOOGLEABLE” CONTENT

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss

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his past summer, while taking a two day vacation in Miami (with our 2-year-old in tow), we heeded the recommendation of Chef Yos Schwartz (proprietor of Hasid+Hipster Miami and a private chef) and made reservations at Sami & Susu, a newly-opened dairy Israeli restaurant located five minutes from the famous bakery, Zak the Baker. We were in awe of the space itself — incredibly hip with a great feel and welcoming vibe. We started our meal with butter-slathered garlic bread, a charred, roasted sweet potato topped with crème fraîche (simple yet spot-on), a rich Caesar salad served with a poached egg and the Miami Beach Caprese, which consisted of branzino sashimi, tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, smoked eggplant cream, almonds, tamarind vinaigrette and sumac yogurt mousse. Everything we ate was extraordinarily fresh, modern and like nothing we had ever experienced before. We were impressed. When dessert came along, we were utterly blown away. See pg. 40 for more on this hands-on dessert experience. I knew right then and there that I needed to share this concept with our readers on an easier, homemade level. I began planning the logistics on coming back to shoot this one-of-a-kind experience and it inspired our how-to-throwa-dessert-party-at-home concept. While we were there, we decided to take full advantage of Miami and everything it has to offer. We teamed up with Reena Goldberger, a super talented event planner and Miami native and resident, who hosted us at her home for the ultimate dinner party (see pg. 22). It was amazing to see someone with such talent make use of her limited space without skimping on quality. Condo living is gorgeous but can come with smaller kitchens; Reena shares how she entertains in her 250-square-foot kitchen space, which to

me, was the most inspiring part. The food was beyond incredible too. While in Miami, we visited what we call the kosher ‘restaurant row’ and gathered some ideas for making the most of a Miami trip (pg. 70). To really seal the party theme of this issue, we teamed up with Chef Isaac Bernstein who visited our test kitchen and prepared his ultimate party bites. Inspired by traditional fair food (aka finger food, great paired with some cold beer), he shares corn dogs and funnel cakes taken in a savory direction. Feel free to customize and top with whatever you would like. To contrast Chef Isaac’s savory bites of heaven, pastry expert Deby Sandler shared her authentic churro recipe (pg. 46). During the planning stages of this issue, my magazine partner and husband Shlomo and I had the opportunity to speak at Melinda Strauss’s Jewish Food Media Conference where we mentioned that we weren’t doing an official latke or donut recipe. The outrage was palpable, so I realized an explanation was needed. At Fleishigs, we do our best to put out “ungoogleable” content. That is what drives our creativity and everything we do. Google “latkes” and you will be met with thousands upon thousands of recipes and inspiration. So, in that regard, we set out to offer something new. Za’atar churros. Carrot corn dogs. A beautifully messy dessert spread. However, to keep the latke lovers everywhere happy, I will share my top 5 latke creations along with my classic latke recipe in upcoming emails, so if you want to stay classic and skip Google, we’ve got you covered as well. Happy Chanukah and Bitayavon, Shifra

Tried one of our recipes? Let us know! Hello@fleishigs.com 8

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COPYWRITER Yudi Lewis PROOFREADER Sara Linder DESIGN estudio-5.com PRODUCTION estudio-5.com PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Devorah Kahan Alana White MARKETING & BRANDING Mann Sales Co. TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt

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Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine, or for the content of books. Fleishigs magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Thank you to Fishs Eddy for providing many of the beautiful dishes used to photograph recipes for this issue. Visit www.fishseddy.com or their store located at 889 Broadway at 19th Street in NYC for flatware, dining ware, kitchenware, silverware, linens and more.

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GIFT GUIDE KITCHEN SHEARS

Extra tools

CHURRO MAKER

DEEP FRY SET

DEEP FRYER

SNACK BOX SPICE BLENDS

CHANUKAH PJ'S

CHANUKAH CANDY

For the Baker

DEEP FRY THERMOMETER

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Fleishigs

PASTRY MAT

DECEMBER 2019

MENORAH

Tea & Coffee Lover

Chanukah Themed

Food Gifts

TRUFFLE ZEST

TEA PRESS

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Entertaining Extras

Wine & Spirits

GIFT GUIDE

WINE CARAFE

MIXOLOGY SET

WINE SHELF

CHARCUTERIE OR CHEESE BOARD

FONDUE SET

SODA MAKER

CHANUKAH

TRAVEL MENORAH

Those extras you didn’t know you need, but can’t live without.

GIFT GUIDE

AT HOME BARISTA

FRENCH PRESS

MONOGRAMMED MUGS

DECEMBER 2019

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CHANUKAH GIFT GUIDE

GIFT GUIDE

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DECEMBER 2019

Extra Tools

Chanukah Themed

CHURRERA CHURRO MAKER WITH HOLLOW NOZZLE AND FILLING TIP BUNDLE

MICHAEL ARAM PALM MENORAH

This churro maker expertly pipes churros to the perfect size. This set is great because it includes assorted discs in a variety of shapes, as well as a filling tip bundle to make filled churros. www.amazon.com $19.99

CUISINART 4-QUART DEEP FRYER This sleek countertop deep fryer has a powerful heating element that heats up and cools down quickly. It has a built-in 60-minute digital timer for ultimate precision and accuracy. www.williams-sonoma.com $89.95

WILLIAMS SONOMA SIGNATURE THERMO-CLAD™ DEEP SAUTÉ WITH FRYER BASKET Almost like any other multi-purpose pan, this deep version includes a separate fryer basket, making stovetop frying that much easier. With patented technology, your food will heat evenly and be temperature-controlled throughout the cooking process. Oven-safe and ideal for use on any type of cooktop, including induction. www.williams-sonoma.com $249.95

CUTCO KITCHEN SHEARS These all-purpose “super shears” are a must for any kitchen, craft room or garage. The heavy-duty blades cut through almost anything and separate for easy cleaning. Available in a variety of colors. Plus, Cutco has a free sharpening service and a lifetime guarantee on their products, making it an extremely valuable purchase. www.cutco.com $117.00

This modern gold-plated menorah is a stunning piece to have on display yearround. www.bloomingdales.com $425

HAPPY CHANUKAH JELLY BELLY A blue and white-themed 1-ounce bag of jelly beans brings a festive spirit the entire family will appreciate. www.amazon.com $6.99

MAGNETIC CHANUKAH TRAVEL MENORAH WITH COLORED CANDLES BY CAZENOVE JUDAICA This new concept menorah is compact, making it easy to take on the go. It can be lit using candles or oil. www.amazon.com $14.99

Food Gifts SABATINO TARTUFI TRUFFLE ZEST Sabatino Tartufi is a family-owned company that has been producing high-quality, non-GMO truffle products since 1911. This 1.76-ounce jar of black truffle zest provides a robust and authentic truffle flavor that is second to none. It is extremely versatile and can be used on roasted vegetables, popcorn and any protein. www.sabatinotruffles.com $14.99

ARLOTTA OLIVE OIL SAMPLER Conveniently packaged with three bottles of organic cold-pressed olive oil (blood orange, garlic and original), this is the perfect gift for the host who has it all. Bottles can be purchased individually as well. www.arlottafood.com $49.00

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GIFT GUIDE UNION SPICE BLEND COLLECTION

LIBBEY MIXOLOGY SET

TILED MARGOT MONOGRAM MUG

This packed-with-flavor spice blend collection includes the signature Cholent, Mediterranean, Apple Crisp, Rosemary Garlic and Hot Stuff. www.unionspiceblends.com $34.99

This nine-piece mixology set includes everything you might need to make delicious drinks at home. www.bedbathandbeyond.com $29.95

These stylish mugs made from decaled stoneware are the perfect addition to any cupboard. Choose an initial at checkout for an easy and affordable monogrammed gift for any age. www.anthropologie.com $12.00

M E D I U M

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NEW DELHI THAN MAKE JUST S DELI. MORE

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MET SUSU: WHEN SAMI DINE FOR. TO DESSERT page 40

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The sleek design of this glass carafe will truly stand out on your table or bar. It allows wine to properly “breathe” and is easy to pour from. www.crateandbarrel.com $29.95

An espresso machine is the ultimate splurge for the real coffee aficionado in your life. This top-of-the-line machine boasts dozens of cool features to make your morning brew the best it can be. www.crateandbarrel.com $599.95

Made in Israel, this stylish updated version of the classic SodaStream® sparkling water maker includes the machine, a 1-liter bottle and a 60-liter capacity carbonating cylinder. Extra bottles are available for purchase separately and the machine is compatible with all other SodaStream® carbonating water bottles. www.worldmarket.com $71.99 N 013

SWOON CARAFE

BREVILLE BARISTA EXPRESS ESPRESSO MACHINE

WHITE SODASTREAM® FIZZI CLASSIC SPARKLING WATER MAKER KIT

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Coffee lovers appreciate a French press as it maintains most of the coffee’s essential oils, which is where all the flavor lies. This gift set includes an 8-cup French press coffee maker and a vacuum-insulated travel mug with a heat-safe sleeve and secure lid. www.worldmarket.com $39.99

Crafted of black porcelain, oak and stainless steel, this 8½-ounce capacity fondue pot is perfect for entertaining. Microwave and oven-safe. www.worldmarket.com $29.99

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A silicone mat is essential for a true baker, perfect for challah or babka dough. It’s made of flexible silicone material, which is a breeze to clean and rolls for easy storage. Plus, it has printed guides for rolling dough and inches marked along the edges. www.williams-sonoma.com $19.95

BODUM CHAMBORD 8-CUP FRENCH PRESS AND TRAVEL MUG SET

BOSKA BLACK TAPAS TEALIGHT FONDUE SET

W E ’ R E

TOVOLO NON-STICK PASTRY MAT

This heat-resistant, dishwasher and microwave-safe glass pot is an elegant way to serve tea with your own tea blends. www.crateandbarrel.com $40.00

Meat and cheese boards are all the rage and this bamboo set is the perfect way to display your favorites. The board includes cutlery that is conveniently stored in a pull-out compartment underneath. www.amazon.com $54.99

I U M M E D

To ensure accurate temperatures of oil and sugar, this sturdy thermometer lists degrees in both Fahrenheit and Celsius. The attached clip makes it easy to attach to any pot. www.amazon.com $17.99

BODUM ASSAM TEA PRESS

BAMBUSI ORGANIC CHEESE BOARD AND KNIFE SET

E D O N

OXO GOOD GRIPS GLASS CANDY AND DEEP FRY THERMOMETER

Tea & Coffee Lover

Entertaining Extras

L W E L

For the Baker

This sleek shelf holds up to five wine glasses with additional space on top. It’s ideal for small spaces or to add some character to a blank wall in the kitchen, living room or dining room. www.anthropologie.com $158.00

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Looking for healthy snacks, but don't want to spend the time scouring supermarket shelves? Try the Boxed by Suri kosher snack subscription box, which ships out a different box of healthy snack each month curated by nutritionists. www.boxedbysuri.com $25-$132

MAYFAIR WALL-MOUNTED WINE GLASS SHELF

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BOXED BY SURI

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Cookbook Review BY SHIFRA KLEIN

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hen my husband and I got engaged, his good friend gifted us Susie Fishbein’s first Kosher by Design book with a humorous Mazal Tov note that said, ”This is the standard I expect to find when you invite me over.” It actually became my go-to book and inspired my passion to explore exciting flavor combinations and new ingredients. Cookbooks are probably one of the best gifts you can give someone who appreciates good food. Recently, a lot of excellent new books have hit the kosher market; we have had the opportunity to review treasures like Sababa by Adeena Sussman, The 100 Most Jewish Foods by Alana Newhouse, No Crumbs Left by Teri Turner, Israeli Soul by Michael Solomonov, Shuk by Einat Admony and Simply Gourmet by Rivky Kleiman. The following is a breakdown of some more of the newest books to hit the market.

VARIATIONS BY DANIELLA SILVER The concept of this book is to make one recipe two ways, so once you master a recipe, you are able to present it in another way. What impressed us about the book was the all-around simplicity — simple ingredient lists and simple instructions. All of the recipes are wholesome, nutritious, family-friendly and utilize pantry staples without the need to source any hardto-find ingredients. Highly recommended for a beginner cook. 120+ recipes, 296 pages. Published by Artscroll.

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MORE REAL LIFE KOSHER COOKING BY MIRIAM PASCAL The third cookbook authored by celebrated food blogger Miriam Pascal doesn’t disappoint. Shot entirely by Miriam herself, the photos are visually appealing and bring Miriam's signature relatable cooking style to the forefront. Miriam shows how to create memorable dishes with approachable recipes and simple preparations. No pricey equipment. No complicated ingredients. We also love the plan-ahead and/ or freezer tips for each recipe. 150+ recipes, 304 pages. Published by Artscroll.

A TASTE OF SOUTH AFRICA WITH THE KOSHER BUTCHER’S WIFE BY SHARON LURIE South African Jewish food is its own special cuisine that combines heimish Ashkenazi foods with South African ingredients and spices. This book is a wonderful, rich collection of authentic South African Jewish food. It is the third book by Sharon Lurie, who is the wife of a local kosher butcher. The measurements and cuts of meat are written in South African terminology, which is important to keep in mind. This book is great for meat lovers and those who enjoy experimenting with tons of flavor and new, interesting cuisines. 100+ recipes, 224 pages. Published by Penguin Random House South Africa.

MOODTOPIA: TAME YOUR MOODS, DESTRESS, AND FIND BALANCE USING HERBAL REMEDIES, AROMATHERAPY, AND MORE BY SARA CHANA SILVERSTEIN This book offers a fascinating take on the impact food has on one’s mood. The author is a master herbalist and classical homeopath who wrote this book in a very relatable voice. She also shares easy, healthy recipes and snacks to go along with recommendations for the best natural remedies to help combat stress and anxiety and promote peace of mind. A great book for those looking for a dose of positivity and inspiration to improve upon one’s emotional well-being. 230 pages. Published by Da Capo Lifelong Books.

SHABBOS UNDER PRESSURE ONE POT ONE PAN BY SHARON MATTEN BY DEVORAH KAHAN AND This book feels like it comes straight out of your mother’s RACHEL MOSKOWITZ kitchen. Practical recipes for homey comfort food that is simple and classic. The twist? The basis of the book is that most of the recipes are cooked using the latest kitchen gadget — the Instant Pot. Recommended for someone who loves classic Jewish recipes and is looking for more ways to use their Instant Pot. 70+ recipes, 152 pages. Published by Feldheim.

Devorah and Rachel compiled this book while studying abroad in Israel. As 20-yearolds, they realized that there are a large number of home cooks who want to cook using simple ingredients and simple equipment. Highly recommended for a beginner cook, college student or newlyweds. 57 recipes, 144 pages. Published by Israel Bookshop. w w w.f leishigs.com


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FROM MIRIAM PASCAL’S MORE REAL LIFE KOSHER COOKING

WONTONS IN GARLIC SAUCE Yield: 10-12 servings This recipe began with my obsession with wontons and garlic sauce from a particular Chinese restaurant that’s nowhere near my home. Naturally, I had to recreate it myself. Since then, these wontons have become the stuff of Pascal family legend. It’s my family’s all-time favorite Yom Tov appetizer. The only downside? It’s pretty much guaranteed to upstage basically any other dish you serve at the same meal! Wontons 1½ pounds ground beef 2 tablespoons soy sauce ½ teaspoon toasted sesame oil 2 tablespoons sesame seeds, preferably a mix of black and white 4 scallions, sliced 4 cloves garlic, minced 50 wonton wrappers, approximately Garlic Sauce 1 (18-ounce) jar hoisin sauce ⅓ cup soy sauce ⅓ cup rice vinegar ⅓ cup honey 2 teaspoons Sriracha 1 teaspoon ground mustard ½ teaspoon ground ginger ½ cup water 12 cloves garlic, minced Sliced scallions, optional, for garnish Additional sesame seeds, optional, for garnish Prepare the wontons: 1. C ombine beef, soy sauce, sesame oil, sesame seeds, scallions and garlic in a large bowl; stir gently until just combined. 2. Place about 2 teaspoons meat mixture onto the center of a wonton wrapper. Brush a small amount of water along the edges before pressing

them together to help keep them sealed; bring the edges together to form a wonton. Set aside; repeat with remaining meat and wonton wrappers. 3. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Drop a few wontons into the boiling water; cook for about 6 minutes, until the meat is cooked through. Work in batches to avoid overcrowding the pot. Remove wontons with a slotted spoon; place on parchment paper, not touching each other. Set wontons aside. 4. Meanwhile, prepare the garlic sauce: Combine all sauce ingredients in a medium pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat; simmer mixture for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until sauce thickens. 5. Just before serving, toss cooked wontons in sauce; warm through. If desired, garnish with sliced scallions and sesame seeds. Plan Ahead: Wontons can be frozen, without sauce, either before cooking (boil just before serving; if boiling frozen, add 1 minute to cooking time) or after cooking. Sauce can be prepared up to 3 days ahead and stored in the fridge. Combine wontons and reheated sauce just before serving.

Reproduced from More Real Life Kosher Cooking by Miriam Pascal with permission of the copyright holder ArtScroll/Mesorah Publications Ltd. DECEMBER 2019

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COOKBOOK REVIEW

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FROM DANIELLA SILVER’S VARIATIONS HASH BROWN “POTATO KUGEL” WAFFLES Yield: 6 servings

4 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled (about 8 medium) 1 large onion, chopped 1 egg 1 tablespoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (preferably liver.) 1 teaspoon sweet paprika In a food processor fitted with the shredding disk, shred potatoes and onions, using medium pressure. Transfer vegetables to a large colander set in the sink or over a bowl; press firmly to drain excess liquid. Place drained veggies into a

large bowl. Add egg, salt, pepper, oil and paprika. Mix well. Turn on waffle maker; coat with nonstick cooking spray. Spoon about ¾-cup potato mixture into waffle compartment; spread out evenly. Cook until potatoes are browned on both sides. Add more nonstick cooking spray if needed. Cut each into quarters. VARIATION Deli Hash Brown Pizza Prepare recipe as directed, but do not cut waffles into quarters. Place waffles on a large serving platter. Top with 1 pound sliced corned beef, 3 pickles, trimmed and sliced and a drizzle of spicy mayo. Serve immediately. Alternatively, serve on individual plates, dividing toppings evenly among them. Great to serve as an appetizer or for Chanukah time.

Reproduced from Variations by Daniella Silver with permission of the copyright holder ArtScroll/Mesorah Publications Ltd.

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COOKBOOK REVIEW 1 chicken stock cube dissolved in ⅓ cup boiling water Salt and pepper, to taste FRITTERS 2 eggs, beaten 2 cups bread crumbs Oil, for frying

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Reprinted with permission from Sharon Lurie.

FROM SHARON LURIE'S A TASTE OF SOUTH AFRICA WHAT AM I – CHOPPED LIVER? And that’s exactly what’s hidden behind these crispy crumbed walls. Fried chopped liver balls!

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FILLING - CHOPPED LIVER ¼ cup oil or schmaltz 4 large onions, peeled and chopped (the secret to the best chopped liver!) 1 teaspoon sugar 3 eggs 250-300g (9-10 ounces) ready koshered chicken livers, already grilled

Heat the oil or schmaltz in a large pot and fry the onions and sugar until golden brown. (Caramelizing the onions is the secret to that special tasting liver). While the onions are frying, hard boil the eggs. Remove the pot from the heat once the onions are browned. Wash the chicken livers in cold water and remove any burnt bits, membranes and sinews. Add the livers to the onions and mix well until all the livers are well coated with onions and oil. Add 2-3 tablespoons of chicken stock, reserving a bit in case you want to add extra once you have minced everything together. Place the pot back on the stove, bring to the boil, mixing well and scraping all the brown bits off the bottom of the pot. That’s where the flavor sits. Once it starts to boil, remove from the heat. Mince the liver and onions with the eggs, using a hand or electric mincer. Add salt and pepper to taste. Should you want a smoother texture, add some of the reserved chicken stock and re mince half of the already minced liver. Mix it altogether and that should make it smoother. If you want it even smoother you can blend it in a food processor to make it a little smoother, like pate. Allow to cool and refrigerate immediately to allow it to firm up. Once firm, divide liver into balls, dip into egg mixture and then into bread crumbs. Deep fry balls over medium to high heat until golden brown. Remove and set aside – serve at room temperature. w w w.f leishigs.com



SEASONAL

I was originally inspired by the art of entertaining at the first dinner party I attended, at about 10 or 11 years old. The party was a get-together of family friends in the coolest house ever. The doors were inscribed with Hebrew scripture, the living room ceilings were painted like Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel and the keys on the grand piano played themselves. I knew I was in for a unique experience. The hostess never let any guests in the kitchen but she allowed me to assist. I was immediately hooked. The soft music playing in the background, warm hors d'oeuvres waiting on the large wooden sideboard and sheer joy emanating from the hostess made me feel honored to be her guest. It was the first time I had experienced green jam served with meat, which I later learned to be a classic combination of lamb chops and mint jelly, something I still remember today. I was intrigued and wanted more. For years to come, each and every event I was invited to widened my eyes and sparked my imagination. At one dinner, I was served coconut chicken in a coconut shell; on another occasion I noticed individual paper soap leaves in the bathroom. Never was a detail spared. I took notice. I took mental notes. I was inspired. When Shifra from Fleishigs Magazine reached out about contributing to the Chanukah issue on the topic of how to throw a dinner party, I was thrilled,

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BY REENA GOLDBERGER

THE ART OF THE DINNER PARTY

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because it’s what I love to do. Then when she mentioned that it would be an actual dinner party for the issue’s “live article” feature, I was fully on board (and flattered!). Shifra put me to the test to see if I could pull off serving a crowd of 12 in my cozy dining room, out of my 250-square-foot kitchen. I was up for the challenge! I knew I could throw a party that I could be proud of and enjoy participating in as well. As an event planner, I know that executing a successful party is all about thinking ahead and establishing a realistic plan. I hired two servers to keep things running smoothly so that I could actually sit down with my guests and enjoy. It was incredible to watch the talented Schneur Menaker, Fleishigs’ photographer, work his magic and capture the event, representing my food in such a beautiful way. I greatly enjoyed hosting the diverse crowd of food personalities and it was even better to see how comfortable everyone was with each other. Along with some dear friends and neighbors, we were joined by Rivky and Ezzy Duchman (co-owners of Sage Market), Michelle Saka (@miamifoodyenta), chef Yos Schwartz (@chefyos), Zalmi Duchman (@cookmellow), Chani Katz (Chabad of South Beach/Lincoln Road), Rachel Wachtel (@kosherhousewife) and Jackie Yesharim (@homeoverhouse, who made an incredible flower menorah). While not everyone knew each other, there was a wonderful sense of camaraderie over a shared passion for entertaining and kosher food.

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ELEBRATE

AT HOME DECEMBER 2019

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SEASONAL

THE GAME

THE DAY OF:

When celebrating at home, I take the full experience into account, from the smells to the music and the lights. My first focus is on the guest list and what will be most enjoyed by those attending the party. From there, I create a menu with some flexibility, leaving room for market-specific finds. For this Chanukah dinner, I found amazing maitake mushrooms at Whole Foods and the newly opened Grove Kosher Market in Hollywood, FL. I knew the mushrooms would complement the short rib dish on the menu, so I quickly adjusted the flavors to match.

PLAN:

As the party approaches, highlight items left on the to-do list. Since the majority of preparations are done the day before, the day of the event is when all of the components come to life and the finishing touches are added. I start by washing all of the herbs and placing them in bowls on the countertop so that they’re within reach. Then, I line up my favorite kitchen tools so that I can move quickly and efficiently. I like to think ahead about how I will prepare the dishes so that I’m not busy rummaging for the perfect plate or utensil in front of my guests.

Reena Goldberger

HOME IS WHERE THE DINNER PARTIES ARE. 24

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THE 1. TIMING: Set the table the night before so that you have one less thing to do the day of. Just seeing the room ready really sets the mood. 2. LAYERS: When setting the table, think in layers. Beginning with the base, my favorite go-to is using paper gift wrap as a table runner; I always keep a stash of colorful options on hand. Tape the edges under the table and voila, a unique look each

time. Plus, it’s inexpensive, disposable (easy clean up!) and allows you to switch up the decor for every occasion. Then add placemats, chargers or both, depending on how much space there is between settings. 3. COLOR SCHEME: The colors for this Chanukah-themed party were based on what I had on hand. I mixed gold and black flatware and added gray and white neutrals for the runner and plates.

TABLE:

4. TABLE SETTING:

5. DISHES:

6. FLOWERS:

I enjoy mixing vintage (like my grandmother’s gold flatware) and modern (like a sharp black set) pieces for the perfect contrast. Multiple glasses per place setting and freshly pressed cloth napkins are musts for a truly fabulous evening.

You don’t need a full set of dishes when throwing a large dinner party. Play around with different styles and shapes; mix and match for a fun, eclectic look. I started with gold scalloped placemats from CB2 (you can find similar ones at a dollar/variety store or on Amazon) topped with white dinner plates and textured black napkins to tie all the colors together.

Fill low vases with an abundance of a few varieties of flowers, with votive candles interspersed to set the mood. I chose a wonderful pairing of soft ming ferns and white phalaenopsis orchids arranged in two gold rectangular vases that spanned the length of the table.

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SEASONAL

THE

MENU:

UTILIZE SEASONAL PRODUCE AND THE FRESHEST INGREDIENTS YOU CAN FIND. When you use good quality ingredients, you don't need to do much to let them shine. Even a small step like grinding fresh black pepper makes a huge difference.

ALWAYS INCORPORATE NEW FLAVOR COMBINATIONS. For instance, I glazed the short ribs with gochujang paste, which added a twist to a classic braised meat dish.

PLAN AHEAD. I want to be a host and not just a chef in the kitchen, so I

put together menus that can be mostly prepared in advance, with only finishing touches to complete once guests arrive.

WRITE OUT THE MENU. This helps formulate shopping lists and cooking tasks.

CREATE SHOPPING LISTS BY DIVIDING MENUS INTO CATEGORIES. Produce, fish, meat and grocery items. The day before the event, I prepare all of the sauces, dressings and dessert components.

Read more on the menu and wine pairings on page 38.

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SEASONAL

DECEMBER 2019

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SEASONAL

THE

PARTY

When the Fleishigs crew showed up for this unique dinner party experience, I was about to sear the grouper for the second course. I had made the dish on Rosh Hashana and was excited to share it with the magazine and other guests. Having sautĂŠed the leeks the day before was a huge time saver and did not compromise on flavor. The smell of fresh herbs and simmering short ribs was a fragrant delight when the guests started to walk through the door. The guests took their seats and the dinner party began. Each course was paired with wine and a good laugh. Looking around the table and watching my guests enjoying themselves brought me so much joy, as it always does. It was a thrill to have awakened my guests' palates for the night, while sharing what I love with people who are passionate about food and entertaining.

TAKE HOME GIFT:

From my home to yours, happy Chanukah!

If you really want to make your dinner party special, give guests a little gift on their way out. It can be something small just to memorialize the night. For our Chanukah-themed dinner, I gave guests a candle to tie in what this issue is all about. When you do something you love, everyone around you will feel it too. Welcome your guests with open arms and enjoy every part of the celebration.

Reena prepared customized scented candles that she laid out on a tray to further enhance the decor. 28

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Y O

U

A

A

Y

R E W

Pocono Shabbos Getaway

L F S E

info@leviweingarten.com

D

R

A

R

T A W G E

AT THE BEAUTIFUL SCRANTON HILTON Fine catering by Pocono Kosher

KOSHER DINING

HOSPITALITY

KIDS’ DAY CAMP

WINTER ACTIVITIES

Elegant glatt-kosher meals served in the Hilton’s grand ballroom*

Warm environment with uplifting tefilos, shiurim, and melave malka entertainment.

Children will have a blast all shabbos with activities and games galore.

Tons of local indoor and outdoor attractions for memorable family fun.

Three weekends to choose from:

DEC 27-29

JAN 24-26

JAN 31-FEB 2

Shabbos Chanukah

Parshas Va’eira

Parshas Bo

www.myPoconoKosher.com

2019

info@myPoconoKosher.com Scranton Hilton Under strict supervision of Chabad of the Abingtons

Check out our midweek program at Kalahari Resort Jan 2020

* Limited group/private dining available for simchas and family reunions


SEASONAL

SQUASH SOUP Serves: 12 The combination of both delicata and butternut squash with ginger and coconut is incredible. The added texture from the dukkah topping and the boost of umami from the truffle oil simply take this soup over the top. 1 delicata squash, quartered and seeded 1 butternut squash, halved and seeded 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided 2 leeks, pale and light green parts only, thinly sliced and washed well 1-inch knob of ginger, peeled and diced 1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk 3-4 cups boiling water ¼ cup dark brown sugar Drizzle of black truffle oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Pure maple syrup, for garnish Professor Blend Dukkah, for garnish

SQUASH

SOUP

SQUASH SOUP FOR THE SOUL.

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Preheat oven to 375°F. Drizzle 2 tablespoons olive oil over the squash. Arrange on a baking sheet, cut-side down and roast until soft, approximately 45-60 minutes. Heat remaining tablespoon olive oil in a stock pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat and sauté leeks and ginger until softened, about 10 minutes. Scoop out the flesh from the roasted squash and add to the leeks. Add coconut milk and boiling water. For a quick preparation, blend soup using an immersion blender directly in the pot. For a super smooth soup, blend in a food processor or high-powered blender. After blending, add brown sugar and a drizzle of black truffle oil and stir to combine. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve garnished with a drizzle of maple syrup and a sprinkle of Professor Blend Dukkah.

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PROFESSOR BLEND DUKKAH Yield: ¾ cup Dukkah is a popular spice blend in the Middle East, commonly made with various nuts and spices. It’s perfect on everything from challah and fish to roasted vegetables and salads. This version is inspired by the one created by my brother, a professor at Yeshiva University. ½ cup pumpkin seeds, roughly chopped 2 tablespoons anise seeds 2 tablespoons sesame seeds 1 tablespoon fennel seeds 1 tablespoon caraway seeds 2 teaspoons za’atar 2 teaspoons red chili flakes 2 teaspoons kosher salt Preheat oven to 325°F. Spread all ingredients on a baking sheet and toast until fragrant, about 10 minutes. Watch it carefully because seeds can burn quickly.

LEEK

MUSTARD

GROUPER

LEEK MUSTARD GROUPER Serves: 8 This dish utilizes minimal pantry ingredients. The sautéed leeks and honey mustard is a magical pairing that elevates the fish without overwhelming its delicate texture. If grouper is not readily available, opt for Nile perch, barramundi or bronzini. These flavors will work with almost any other fish, just adjust the cooking time for thicker fillets like salmon.

¼ cup olive oil, divided 2 leeks, pale and light green parts only, sliced thinly ½ cup chopped fresh dill Juice of 2 lemons, divided 8 (6-ounce) grouper fillets ⅓ cup honey mustard Juice of 1 orange ½ cup dry white wine Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Add 2 tablespoons olive oil to a large skillet and sauté leeks and dill over mediumhigh heat until softened, about 10 minutes. Add juice of 1 lemon and transfer to a plate. In the same skillet, add remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and sear grouper over high heat until a golden crust forms, about 4-5 minutes per side. Spread a thin layer of honey mustard over each fillet and

top with sautéed leeks. Squeeze remaining lemon and orange juice into the pan, followed by the wine. Season with salt and pepper. Cook uncovered for 10 minutes over medium heat. Set aside and cover until ready to serve. Serve with Candied Kumquats and Jerusalem Artichoke Purée (recipes to follow).

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CANDIED KUMQUATS Bring 1 cup sugar and ¾ cup water to a boil. Add 2 cups sliced kumquats and 1 teaspoon fennel seeds and simmer until kumquats are tender, about 20 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer kumquats to a bowl. Reduce liquid for an additional 10 minutes until a syrup forms. Pour over kumquats. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

Creamy vegetable purées are the hottest accessory to any protein. If you can't find Jerusalem artichokes, Yukon Gold potatoes work wonderfully. 1 pound Jerusalem artichokes, peeled and roughly chopped 3 shallots, peeled and quartered 2 tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute (we used Betterine) 1 cup vegetable stock ½ cup dry white wine Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 3 cups fresh baby spinach ½ cup fresh parsley, leaves only

Add Jerusalem artichokes, shallots and Betterine to a large pot and cook over medium-high heat for 12 minutes. Add stock and white wine; season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then cover and simmer over mediumlow heat until tender, about 2030 minutes. Add spinach and parsley. Stir until wilted. To maintain vibrant color, make sure not to overcook. Transfer to a food processor and blend until silky smooth and bright green. Add more stock, 1 tablespoon at a time, if purée is too thick.

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INVOLTINI

Makes: 4 cups

Pro Tip: Little bowls of easy bites provide something extra for guests to munch on. These flavored olives (olives, olive oil, sliced garlic, fresh herbs) were a huge hit.

VEAL

JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE PURÉE

VEAL INVOLTINI WITH MERGUEZ Serves: 8 When shopping at the Grove Kosher Market, I was drawn to their homemade lamb merguez sausage and knew I was going to incorporate it. If you can’t find this specific type of sausage, any flavored variety would work. w w w.f leishigs.com


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Transfer veal to an ovensafe baking dish. In the same skillet, melt Betterine over medium-high heat. Add garlic and capers; sauté for 5-6 minutes. Add Dijon mustard and stir to combine. Deglaze pan with wine and cook for 5 minutes over low heat. Pour sauce over veal and transfer to the oven until ready to serve (up to 3 hours). Serve with Roasted Baby Zucchini, Celeriac Purée and Pistachio Dust.

ROASTED BABY ZUCCHINI Preheat oven to 400°F. Thinly slice 4 small zucchinis lengthwise and arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet. Spray with olive oil spray and season with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Roast for 20 minutes.

THE VEAL DEAL. Read more on veal cutlets on page 65.

8 veal cutlets, about ½ pound each, pounded thinly 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 cup fresh parsley 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed 3 lamb merguez sausage links, removed from casings and slightly crumbled

Sauce: 2 tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute (we used Betterine) 3 cloves garlic, finely minced 3 tablespoons capers 1 heaping tablespoon Dijon mustard ½ cup white wine Preheat oven to 200°F. Season each veal cutlet with salt and pepper. Add parsley and 1 tablespoon

olive oil to a food processor and pulse until a paste forms. Spread a small amount of paste over one side of each veal cutlet. Add some of the crumbled merguez at the end of each cutlet; roll up and secure ends with a small toothpick. Add the remaining olive oil to a large skillet and sear over medium-high heat until lightly golden, about 4-5 minutes per side.

CELERIAC PURÉE Boil 1 peeled and chopped celeriac (celery root), 6 whole garlic cloves and 3 peeled and chopped Yukon Gold potatoes until fork tender. Drain and add to a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment (a food processor will result in a gummy texture). Mix with 2 tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper until smooth.

PISTACHIO DUST Pulse 1 cup roasted, salted pistachios in a food processor to a dust-like consistency.

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SHORT

RIBS

Serve with Cauliflower Béchamel, crushed potato chips, Roasted Baby Cauliflower, Roasted Mushrooms and Jammy Onions and Fennel.

CAULIFLOWER BÉCHAMEL SAUCE Soak 1 cup cashews in hot water for 1 hour, strain and set aside. Sauté 1 large onion with 2 tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute until onions are translucent, about 5 minutes. Add a 10-ounce bag of cauliflower rice and sauté another 5 minutes. Add ½ cup vegetable stock, cover and cook for about 25 minutes. Transfer to a food processor and add strained cashews. Blend until smooth. Add ¾ teaspoon kosher salt, ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and a pinch of nutmeg, to taste. Thin with some non-dairy milk, if desired.

ROASTED BABY CAULIFLOWER

SHORT RIBS THAT WILL GET YOU A STANDING OVATION.

ROASTED MUSHROOMS

SHORT RIBS Serves: 8 These short ribs are melt-in-your-mouth tender and rival the best restaurant version you've ever tasted. 16 short ribs (1-2 per person) 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 bottle dry red wine ¼ cup soy sauce 6-8 cloves garlic 3 sprigs fresh rosemary 3 sprigs tarragon Sweet & Spicy Glaze 3 tablespoons tomato paste 2 tablespoons honey 1½ tablespoons gochujang paste 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 1 tablespoon olive oil Juice of ½ orange 34

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Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss 2 pounds cauliflower florets (baby or regular) with 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Spread on baking sheet and roast for 20 minutes.

Season short ribs with salt and pepper. Add oil to a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat and sear short ribs until golden brown, about 3-4 minutes per side. Deglaze pan with red wine and soy sauce, picking up the browned bits with a wooden spoon. Scatter garlic cloves and herbs between the ribs. Cover and simmer. over low heat for 3 hours. Prepare the glaze by whisking all ingredients together until combined. When the short ribs are done, transfer to a baking sheet and generously brush with glaze. Broil on high for 2 minutes. Serve hot.

Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss 2 pounds assorted mushrooms (use exotic blend if you can find) with 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 2 sprigs rosemary. Spread on baking sheet and roast for 15 minutes. After removing from oven, toss with 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar.

JAMMY ONIONS & FENNEL Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 thinly sliced Spanish onion and 1 thinly sliced bulb of fennel (use a mandoline for even slices). Sauté until onions and fennel start to caramelize. Reduce heat and add 1 tablespoon brown sugar. Cover and cook over low heat until tender, about 2 hours. Season with 1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste. w w w.f leishigs.com


CUBAN BEEF PICADILLO

Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and add meat. Break up meat using a wooden spoon and cook for about 10 minutes, until browned. Add garlic, onion, tomatoes, olives and jalapeño; cook for another 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add spices and tomato paste; cook 10 minutes. If pan is too dry, add some broth or water. Stir in cilantro. Serve immediately. Turn stovetop flame to high and using tongs, place tortillas over open flame to toast and char edges. Serve topped with picadillo, pico de gallo and avocado crèma. You can also serve picadillo stuffed in a sandwich, like an updated version of sloppy joes. Note: You can transfer the cooked beef to a crockpot on low for a few hours. This allows the flavors to intensify and creates a wonderful make-ahead option when entertaining or even for a weeknight dinner. Pico de Gallo: Combine 2 chopped heirloom tomatoes, 1 diced jalapeño, 1 tablespoon olive oil, juice of 1 lime, 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro. Season with more salt and pepper, to taste, if desired.

CUBAN BEEF PICADILLO Serves: 8 This is one of my husband’s favorite Cuban dishes, well, after my mother’s flan. It is typically served with white rice and black beans. For the Fleishigs dinner I served it with Del Campo charred corn tortillas, avocado crèma and pico de gallo. 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 pounds ground beef 3 cloves garlic, finely minced 1 Spanish onion, finely chopped 2 plum tomatoes, diced ⅓ cup green olives with pimentos, halved 1 small jalapeño, finely diced (optional) 1 tablespoon cumin

SEASONAL

2 teaspoons dried oregano 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 2 teaspoons garlic powder 2 teaspoons onion powder 1½ teaspoons kosher salt ¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ⅓ cup tomato paste ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro Flour or corn tortillas, for serving

Avocado Crèma: Combine 5 diced avocados, juice of 1 lime, juice of 1 lemon, ¼ cup mayonnaise, 2 teaspoons garlic powder, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Using an immersion blender, blend until smooth. Season with more salt and pepper, to taste, if desired. To maintain the color, transfer to a Ziploc bag until serving, making sure all the air is out of the bag before closing.

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SEASONAL Dust with confectioners’ sugar. For an extra touch, garnish with homemade Halva Chocolate Truffles (recipe follows) or store-bought truffles.

HALVA CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES Serves: 12 1 (10-ounce) bag semisweet chocolate chips 2-3 tablespoons halva cream 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds Melt chocolate over a double boiler or in 30-second intervals in the microwave, then add halva cream and stir until combined. A thick fudge consistency will form. Roll into small balls and toss in sesame seeds.

TOASTED SESAME BRITTLE Makes: 1 sheet pan

HALVA CREAM

NAPOLEON

HALVA CREAM NAPOLEON Serves: 8 6 sheets phyllo dough ½ stick non-dairy butter substitute (we used Betterine), melted 2 tablespoons cinnamon sugar 2 (8-ounce) containers nondairy whipped topping (we used Rich’s Whip) ⅓ cup tahini ⅓ cup silan ½ teaspoon kosher salt Halva Chocolate Truffles Toasted Sesame Brittle 36

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Fresh berries or pomegranate seeds Confectioners’ sugar Preheat oven to 350°F. Brush a sheet of phyllo dough with melted Betterine and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. Repeat with remaining phyllo sheets, layering the sheets on top of each other as you go. Cut into quarters, then cut each piece into quarters again. Cut each square on the diagonal to form a triangular shape. Arrange in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake

for 8-12 minutes, until golden. Add whipped topping to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Start beating on low, then slowly increase to high speed. When peaks just start to form, slowly add tahini while the mixer is still running. Add silan and salt; mix until just combined, but do not over-whip. Transfer to a Ziploc bag and chill until ready to serve. To serve, layer the phyllo with halva cream and garnish with brittle and fresh fruit.

I couldn’t have Shifra and Shlomo at my house for dinner and not serve them this nostalgic brittle! We first met at Kosherfest 2 years ago, where a version of this brittle recipe won me 1st place in Jamie Geller’s Kosher Masters competition. 1 ½ cups sugar 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds Maldon salt Prepare a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and set aside. Place sugar in a pan set over medium-low heat. The sugar will start to turn a caramel color and slowly melt. Don’t stir it until it’s mostly melted. Once melted, pour caramel onto prepared baking sheet and quickly sprinkle with toasted seeds and Maldon salt. Let cool, then break into shards.

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SEASONAL

TOASTED

SESAME BRITTLE

Reena Goldberger is an event planner extraordinaire who lives in sunny Miami Beach, FL. Whether she is with her husband and 4 children or planning an elegant event for a client, Reena always has a smile on her face. Follow Reena’s fabulous projects on Instagram @reenagoldberger or at www.reenagoldberger.com, where she blogs about tips and tricks for celebrating and entertaining at home. DECEMBER 2019

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L'CHAIM

DINNER PARTY WINES BY GABRIEL GELLER 1.

HAGAFEN RIESLING 2016/18

Beautiful dry expression of the noble Riesling grape grown in Hagafen’s Napa Valley estate vineyard. Reena paired this wine with the seared grouper.

2.

DOMAINE LES MARRONNIERS CHABLIS 2017/18

A mineraly, earthy and refreshing unoaked Chardonnay from one of the prime Burgundy appellations. This wine complemented the picadillo tacos.

3.

GOOSE BAY PINOT NOIR ROSÉ 2018

4.

HAGAFEN PINOT NOIR 2018

5.

KOENIG CREMANT D’ALSACE BRUT

6.

HERZOG PETIT VERDOT 2014/17

7.

CHÂTEAU ROLLAN DE BY MÉDOC 2014/15

Great aromatics and flavors of tart strawberries, black cherries and mint. This is a rosé that needs food as it has the body to stand up to a salmon poke bowl or a beef tartare. Reena served this beauty with the first course, tuna tartare.

Napa Valley shines again with this varietally true, feminine and refined Pinot Noir. It paired perfectly with Reena's liver appetizer.

Champagne that’s not from Champagne, delicious and very much affordable. Good way to start the meal or end it, also a wonderful pairing to the squash soup.

Petit Verdot thrives in sunny California, as demonstrated by this flavorful, fleshy, bold, masterfully crafted wine. Amazing with veal, Reena served it with the stuffed veal scallopini.

Elegance and class, bottled! This wine represents Bordeaux with a Merlot-driven blend, which was prefect for the short ribs.

8. HERZOG

LATE HARVEST CHENIN BLANC 2016/17/18

Safest value out there among the top QPR dessert wines, providing luscious, sweet notes of pear, white peach and quince jam with subtle notes of honeysuckle and maple. It was the ultimate way to end the meal while enjoying seconds of Reena’s halva mousse.

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L

ocated in downtown Miami, Sami & Susu is a fairly new Israeli-inspired, fish-centric hotspot that serves up undeniably fabulous and delicious vegetarian food. The ambiance is truly unique. It’s funky, trendy and an experience unlike any other. I first visited Sami & Susu this past August and it inspired the direction of the Chanukah issue, which is all about entertaining, something Chef Avi and the team at Sami & Susu are experts in. Beyond the food and atmosphere, their dessert is something I had never experienced before and was excited to try. Israeli music blares from the speakers as the chef and pastry chef carry out trays upon trays of dessert. Butcher paper is laid out on the table and the action begins. Crème anglaise is swiped onto the paper, followed by strawberry coulis, crumbled cookies, mini meringues, luscious chocolate truffles and wedges of pineapple drizzled with homemade salted caramel sauce. But it doesn’t stop there. Brownies,

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THE MOST INTERACTIVE DINING EXPERIENCE TO HIT KOSHER

BY SHIFRA KLEIN

NEXT LEVEL DESSERT:

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES: MAKING FOOD FUN AGAIN.

cheesecake, warm chocolate cake, crème brûlée, kanafeh, French macarons and generous amounts of chocolate ganache are all added for good measure. While it may sound like a hodgepodge of ingredients thrown together, everything is artfully placed with intention into what can only be described as a beautiful mess. Just when you think it can’t get any crazier, the chefs pour liquid nitrogen over the table for some added drama. During the whole experience, the chefs were carefree yet extraordinarily precise, dancing, singing and drawing their crowd in with more than just the food. It immediately had me thinking about how fun it would be to translate this experience to the pages of the magazine. So we visited Sami & Susu again last month with our talented food photographer (and artist), Schneur Menaker, to capture the moment in action. We hope that this how-to-throw-a-dessert-party feature will inspire some awesome memories this Chanukah season.

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES: MAKING FOOD FUN AGAIN. FLEISHIGS PARTY MIX: CHECK OUT SPOTIFY FOR FLEISHIGS’ FAVORITE PARTY MUSIC. PLAY IT AND TAG US @FLEISHIGSMAG ON INSTAGRAM.

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Doughnuts, Naturally.

Batshi Kochai

™ Natural Baking and Cooking Stick

amarlane foods Your way, naturallyTM

Vegan

NON GMO

PARVE

‫כשר פארווע‬ ‫השגחה תמידית‬


RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

THE STRATEGY: 1. Mise en place / MEEZ•ahn•plahs. French for “everything in its place,” this concept is key to being organized in the kitchen. Prepare all elements you need in advance by placing them in small containers and on trays. This will make serving that much more efficient. 2. As a home cook, the best way to pull this off is to purchase the majority of the components. Inspired by what Chef Avi served us, I created a list of desserts, sauces and accoutrements that can easily be found at your local grocery store. You can still create a phenomenal experience without breaking much of a sweat. Don’t be confined by this list; let your imagination run free.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED: • Butcher paper • Vanilla pudding • Strawberry preserves or any fruit sauce • Crushed cookies or graham crackers • Pineapple or other fresh fruit of choice • Salted caramel sauce • Chocolate brownies • Individual chocolate soufflés or apple cobblers • Cheesecake slices or squares • Mini ice cream sandwiches • Mini meringues or marshmallows • Chocolate ganache or chocolate syrup 44

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HOW TO: 1. Spread butcher paper over the length of your dining room table. 2. Turn on some fun music. 3. Spread vanilla pudding and fruit sauce over the paper and top with crumbled cookies. If using preserves, microwave it a bit just to loosen it up. 4. Slice pineapple in half lengthwise and then again to form four “boats.” Run a sharp knife between the pineapple and the peel to separate it, but keep the fruit sitting on the peel, if you’d like to mimic the chef’s preparation. Otherwise, simply prepare pineapple wedges. Place a pineapple boat on each corner of the table and drizzle some caramel sauce on top. 5. Place desserts of choice on the table, as much as you need to feed your crowd. 6. Add the ice cream sandwiches (stand them up for a cooler effect) and scatter the meringues and marshmallows between. 7. Drizzle everything with chocolate ganache or chocolate syrup.

ENJOY! Warm Chocolate Ganache: Heat 1 cup non-dairy creamer in saucepan until warmed through. Remove from heat and add 2 cups chopped dark chocolate. Stir until melted. You may need to put back on heat for another 30-60 seconds, but only if necessary so the chocolate doesn’t burn. If serving dairy, use heavy cream.

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(Churros, hot churros)

A los churros,

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CHURROS

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CALIE NTES!! BY DEBY SANDLER

Growing up in Buenos Aires, Argentina, churros were a summer staple. I fondly remember days at the beach, where we would enjoy hot, crispy churros with rich, creamy dulce de leche sauce — I have been making them ever since. Making churros in your own kitchen is simpler than you would think! The best way to eat churros is hot, straight from the fryer. So this Chanukah, try your hand at churros for an easier alternative to donuts.

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(Churros, hot churros)

CULINARY SCHOOL

be precise. Carefully pipe dough into hot oil and snip off pieces with a scissor. You can pipe the dough to any length and shape you’d like. As soon as the churros turn golden brown, about 3-4 minutes, transfer to a baking sheet with a slotted spoon or tongs. Immediately dust with sugar, cinnamon-sugar or za’atar.

PASSION FRUIT CURD You can find kosher passion fruit pulp under the Goya brand. You can also substitute with any other fresh fruit purée. ½ cup passion fruit pulp ½ cup sugar 2 eggs 2 egg yolks 6½ tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute (like Betterine)

THE RECIPE IS SURPRISINGLY BASIC — JUST FLOUR, SALT AND WATER. THE IDEAL CHURRO TEXTURE IS ACHIEVED BY FOLLOWING THE EXACT TECHNIQUE SHARED HERE.

Place passion fruit pulp, sugar, eggs and yolks in a pot over low heat and mix until combined. Add Betterine and cook until mixture thickens, about 10 minutes. Strain the curd through a fine mesh sieve and transfer to an airtight container. Place plastic wrap directly on top of the curd and refrigerate until ready to use. Serve with warm churros. Freezes well.

Tips & Resources (1) FOR EASY CHURRO SHAPING, BUY A CHURRERA CHURRO MAKER WITH HOLLOW CHURRO NOZZLE BY BERNAR, AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM.

(2) USE A SCISSOR OR KITCHEN SHEARS TO CUT THE END OF THE CHURRO TO YOUR DESIRED SIZE AS IT'S LOWERED INTO THE OIL.

(3) DON’T BE TEMPTED TO SKIP THE STOVETOP STEP AND GO STRAIGHT TO THE MIXER. CHURRO DOUGH IS TRADITIONALLY MADE ON THE STOVETOP AND IT IS A CRUCIAL STEP IN MAKING THIS DELICACY AUTHENTIC.

Notes (1) YOU CAN PRE-PIPE DOUGH AND LET REST, COVERED AT ROOM TEMPERATURE, UNTIL READY TO FRY, ABOUT 30

8 cups flour 1 teaspoon kosher salt 4¼ cups water 2-3 cups oil, for frying Sugar, cinnamon-sugar or za'atar, for dusting Combine flour and salt in a medium bowl. Pour water into a large pot set over high heat and bring to a boil. Add flour mixture to water and stir with a wooden spoon until dough comes together. Transfer dough to a stand

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mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment and mix until smooth. Alternatively, you can knead by hand, but it will be very hot to the touch; you can use gloves or a kitchen towel to assist. It’s very important that the dough is free of air, so make sure to knead very well. Transfer dough to a churro maker, piping bag or Ziploc bag with the end snipped. In the same pot (or a deep fryer), heat 2-3 cups of oil to 360°F. Use a thermometer to

MINUTES.

FILLED CHURROS Use a piping bag to fill churros with your favorite dessert topping. Some suggestions: • Dulce de leche • Hazelnut chocolate spread • Cookie butter • Jam • Custard

(2) YOU CAN ALSO FREEZE THE SHAPED CHURROS AND FRY STRAIGHT FROM FREEZER.

(3) MAKE CHOCOLATE CHURROS BY ADDING ¼ CUP COCOA POWDER TO BATTER.

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CULINARY SCHOOL

Za’atar Churros THIS FUSION OF SOUTH AMERICAN AND ISRAELI CUISINES IS MAGICAL. WE SIMPLY TOSSED HOT CHURROS WITH ZA’ATAR AND SALT AND SERVED WITH TAHINI.

Deby Sandler is a pastry expert with a specialty in Argentinian desserts and cheesecakes. You can view her stunning work @joyofcholov on Instagram. She lives in Airmont, NY with her husband and 5 children. DECEMBER 2019

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A DV E RTO R I A L

For the chicken: ¼ cup mayonnaise 3 teaspoons soy sauce 1 tablespoon Union Mediterranean Blend 4 chicken cutlets For the salad: 1 (6-ounce) package beef fry, diced 3 ears of corn, cooked (or a 15-ounce can) Handful of cherry tomatoes, diced 1 avocado, diced 2 cucumbers, diced 1 red bell pepper, diced 4 cups mixed greens For the dressing: ¾ cup mayonnaise ½ teaspoon Union Hot Stuff Blend Handful of fresh basil (or two frozen cubes) ½ teaspoon kosher salt 2 cloves garlic (or two frozen cubes) ¼ cup vinegar

Grilled Chicken Salad RECIPE BY FAIGY MURRAY

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have been recipe writing and food blogging for five years and have recently expanded my passion with the launch of Union Spice Blends, a superb collection of five varieties of spice blends that reflect the flavors of my kitchen. I love that you can have one small spice jar and rely on it to create really delicious food. I incorporated two of the spice blends in this salad recipe. Anyone who knows me knows I love a great big salad. Sure, I get cravings for some real carbs, but at the end of the day, there’s nothing like sitting down to a crisp salad!

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Combine mayonnaise, soy sauce and Union Spice in a bowl. Add chicken and marinate for 30 minutes. Grill over medium-high heat for 2-3 minutes per side, depending on thickness. Fry beef fry until golden and crispy, about 10 minutes. In the meantime, cut corn off the cobs and set aside. Place all dressing ingredients in a food processor or high-powered blender and blend until combined. Arrange salad ingredients on a platter and place strips of chicken and beef fry on top. Drizzle with dressing. Note: The dressing will yield more than what is needed for the salad. It will last for a few weeks in the fridge.

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CULINARY SCHOOL

Finding the Right Oil …are you out there?

BY NAOMI ROSS

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very few years it seems there is a new “healthy” oil on the scene, quickly becoming the trendy choice, complete with newfound nutritive claims. We gladly swap out the old fat that used to reside in its place of glory in our cupboards, now branded as one of the “evil fats that will kill you.” A deeper look into commonly used oils reveals that we may need to adjust our question – rather than just asking which oil is best, we need to determine which fat is best suited for the task at hand. Each oil has its place and each comes along with myths that need debunking.

high-temperature cooking like deep frying. Saturated fats, while often the richest and tastiest, delivering crispy results, have been linked with high cholesterol and heart disease and should be used in moderation. For health-minded individuals, choosing an oil low in saturated fat is a good idea. Oils are impacted by the flavors of the foods from which they are extracted. Therefore, you need to consider if the dish you are making will benefit from a robust-flavored oil or if a neutral-flavored oil is preferred. Even if walnut oil had a high enough smoke point to deep fry, would I want my chicken to taste like walnuts? Usage and turnover is an issue in every kitchen, and shelf life may also be a factor in your choice – certain oils last longer than others and no one likes finding (and dumping) rancid oil. Most neutral oils have a shelf life of up to a year. Flavored oils could be 3-6 months depending on storage conditions. No matter which you choose, all oils are impacted by light and heat exposure as well as oxidation. Bottom line: you’re best off storing oils in a cool, dark place.

Check out the oil profile that best suits your cooking need!

How do we figure this all out? Smoke point, saturated fat content, flavor, and shelf life. These are all factors to consider when picking oils. The smoke point is the temperature at which oil begins to smoke and break down (releasing unwanted toxins). Therefore, oils with high smoke points are more appropriate for Naomi Ross is a cooking instructor, food writer and the Culinary Director at Apron Masters Kitchen in Woodmere, NY. Naomi teaches classes throughout the tri-state area and writes articles connecting good cooking and Jewish inspiration. For more information, visit her Instagram @cookingconcepts or website www.koshercookingconcepts.com.

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CULINARY SCHOOL

Avocado Oil:

Coconut Oil:

Smoke Point: 520°F (refined) / 375°F (unrefined)

Smoke Point: 350°F

Extra-Virgin Olive Oil:

Saturated Fat: 86%

Smoke Point: 375-410°F

Saturated Fat: 12%

Best Uses: Coconut oil is often used in non-dairy baked goods, curries and Southeast Asian cuisine or other dishes where coconut flavor is welcome. It’s also found in many beauty products.

Saturated Fat: 13%

Best Uses: Avocado oil works well for stir frying, searing meat and baking. If using to deep fry, make sure to only use refined. Notable Qualities: Highly nourishing and hydrating to both skin and hair, avocado oil boasts healthy fats and vitamins A, D and E. It’s very versatile for cooking but can be more expensive than many other oils. Myths Debunked: Many think that avocado oil will make their food taste like avocado, but that’s only the case if using unrefined avocado oil. Refined oil is mostly stripped of that flavor.

Notable Qualities: Despite a very high percentage of saturated fat, studies have found that coconut oil is a true “superfood” with many health benefits. The fatty acids found in coconut oil are harder for the body to convert into stored fat, making it easier to burn off than the fatty acids found in animal products. Additionally, coconut oil has been found to be a beneficial treatment for skin and hair. Myths Debunked: While many studies have linked health benefits to coconut oil, most have only been tested on animals, not humans. Additionally, only virgin coconut oil (unrefined) can boast true health benefits. Partially hydrogenated coconut oil is just as harmful as other highly processed oils that contain trans fats.

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Notable Qualities: Unrefined and coldpressed extra-virgin olive oil is one of the heart-healthiest oils, linked to improved HDL cholesterol levels and full of vitamins E and K. Best Uses: Olive oil is great for sautéing, in dressings and as a finishing oil. Use in baking where a more robust flavor is desired. Myths Debunked: Not all olive oils are good quality or of equal nutritive value. The less refined, the better, as processing and heat can impact its healthful qualities.


CULINARY SCHOOL

Sesame Oil:

Canola Oil:

Grapeseed Oil:

Smoke Point: 410°F

Smoke Point: 400-425°F

Smoke Point: 425°F

Saturated Fat: 14%

Saturated Fat: 7%

Saturated Fat: 10%

Best Uses: Sesame oil is popular in Asian and Indian cuisines and is also found in many cosmetics.

Best Uses: Canola is a good choice for frying and all-purpose baking where neutral flavor is desired.

Myths Debunked: Sesame oil is not the same thing as its darker cousin, toasted sesame oil. Toasted sesame oil has a much more robust and potent flavor, with a lower smoke point – use sparingly to boost sesame flavor in a dish.

Myths Debunked: Much controversy surrounds this oil, from being considered “toxic” to the worst of GMO farming. Yes, the canola plant was derived from rapeseed, which contains a toxic compound called erucic acid. In the 1970s, Canadian scientists developed a type of rapeseed with very low levels of erucic acid and glucosinolates. The bottom line is that it may be a GMO and a refined oil, but is not any different than any of the other commonly used seed-based oils.

Best Uses: When a clean, neutral flavor is desired for searing, salad dressings and baking, grapeseed oil is an excellent option. Notable Qualities: Grapeseed oil is impressively high in vitamin E and is a known remedy for skin conditions like acne. Myths Debunked: There are many claims of grapeseed oil being “super healthy,” but the jury is still out on this. Many nutritive qualities are lost during the extraction process and it is also high in pro-inflammatory omega-6 fatty acids.

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PAGE HEADER

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BY CHEF ISAAC BERNSTEIN

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very year I get asked the same question — what is my definition of Chanukah? To me, Chanukah is all about family, parties and finger food. A corn dog is the perfect fried, family-friendly finger food when you're searching for a latke alternative. Plus, who doesn’t love food on a stick? There’s a sense of satisfaction in making kosher versions of American fair-style food at home. You can use hot dogs, sausages or go vegan with carrots. Once you have the base batter set, you can take it in so many different directions; be flexible and experiment with flavor profiles. Kids love them too, which is what Chanukah is all about.

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PAGE HEADER

Basic C orn Dog

BATTER This batter makes enough for about 3 dozen of any variety of corn dogs. Use your favorite hot dogs, sausages or prepare the carrots or pastrami per the recipes on the next page. You can easily halve the recipe. 5 cups bread flour 1¼ cups sugar ¾ cup cornmeal 2 tablespoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons baking powder 6 large eggs 2½ cups chicken stock Canola oil, for frying

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Whisk flour, sugar, cornmeal, salt and baking powder in a bowl until combined. In a separate bowl, whisk eggs and chicken stock. Add wet ingredients into dry mixture and whisk until a smooth batter forms. Heat oil in a large pot to 375°F, enough to fill it halfway. While oil is heating, pierce whatever you are frying with wooden popsicle sticks or skewers. Roll in batter until well coated. Fry 4-5 corn dogs at a time for about 5 minutes, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve with honey mustard, BBQ sauce or beef bacon jam (recipe follows).

Shawarmaflavored corn dogs:

Ryeflavored corn dogs:

Herbflavored corn dogs:

Add 2 tablespoons shawarma spice to the batter.

Substitute half the flour with rye flour and add 2 tablespoons everything bagel spice, caraway seeds or poppy seeds.

Add 1 cup chopped herbs. Try a combination of chives, parsley and tarragon.

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PAGE HEADER

CARROT CORN DOGS

PASTRAMI CORN DOGS

Serves: 12

Serves: 12

1 pound carrots, peeled (slice off and discard the tops) 3 cups cold water ⅓ cup sugar 1¼ cups harissa (we used Mina) ½ cup honey 1 tablespoon shawarma spice blend Shawarma-flavored corn dog batter Oil, for deep frying

1½ pounds fully cooked navel pastrami Rye-flavored corn dog batter Canola oil, for frying

Place carrots in a pot and fill with cold water and sugar. Bring to a boil and simmer until carrots are tender; drain. Combine harissa, honey and shawarma spice. Heat a sauté pan over medium heat and add ½ cup of the harissa-honey mixture. Reserve remaining sauce for dipping. Bring sauce to a simmer and sauté carrots until glazed, about 4 minutes. Set aside to cool. Heat oil in a large pot to 375°F. While oil is heating, pierce carrots with wooden popsicle sticks or skewers. Roll in batter until well coated. Fry 4-5 carrot dogs at a time for about 5 minutes, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve with reserved harissa-honey sauce.

Cut navel pastrami into 2x6-inch strips (to resemble the length of a hot dog). Heat oil to 375°F. While oil is heating, pierce pastrami with wooden popsicle sticks or skewers. Roll in batter until well coated. Fry 4-5 corn dogs at a time for about 5 minutes, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Serve with grainy mustard or beef bacon jam.

GET CREATIVE You can dip almost anything in the allpurpose corn dog batter- savory OR sweet!

Nutty Chews / Pickles / Chicken Tenders / Cauliflower / Dagim Surimi Sticks

BEEF BACON JAM

Yields: 2 cups 2 tablespoons olive oil Add oil to a large pan and sauté 1 large onion, diced onions over medium heat, until 4 (4-ounce) packages beef fry, translucent, about 6-8 minutes. chopped Add beef fry and cook until crisp. 1 cup brown sugar Add brown sugar, sambal oelek and 2 tablespoons chili paste vinegar; cook for 30 minutes until the (such as sambal oelek) consistency becomes jam-like. ½ cup apple cider vinegar Fold in whole grain mustard. 2 tablespoons whole grain Serve alongside corn dogs or as mustard a sauce on any sandwich.

Chef Isaac Bernstein, has established a cool factor for Jewish food by cooking up modern heimishe food that has changed the way we think about classics. He founded the kosher catering company Epic Bites, (Northern California), was culinary director at Pomegranate Supermarket in Brooklyn and creator of epic multi-course tasting menu events. Today, Chef Isaac is a restaurant and food consultant and coowner of Gruit Restaurant in Brooklyn. Follow him on Instagram @chefisaacb. DECEMBER 2019

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Eda Schottenstein

INTERVIEW

hile in Miami, we stopped by Eda Schottenstein’s home to talk about her new platform and website, Multi-Role Woman (www.multirolewoman. com), entertaining and of course, food. Eda lives in Miami with her husband and four kids. While pursuing a Master's degree and constantly juggling multiple roles and responsibilities, Eda dreamed of helping women who were experiencing the same struggles. She created this platform based on her own experiences and sought to coach women in regaining the confidence they need to tackle each role with fervor and to take care of their own needs, guilt-free, along the way.

Besides for being entrepreneurs, Eda and her husband are constantly hosting, opening their beautiful home to guests. We caught up with Eda to discuss her love of entertaining and how she manages to juggle it all with a sense of confidence and focus. 60

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What inspired your new project, Multi-Role Woman, and what can people expect to find on the website? Inspired by the multi-role women around me and knowing that I wasn’t alone in longing for better self-awareness and inner peace, I sought to bridge the gap between where I was and where I wanted to be. I was taught that knowledge is meaningless if it’s not used in ways that benefit others. So I set out to create a comfortable space where I could share articles and research-based strategies to help guide us into becoming more authentic, self-aware individuals. You can sign up for email newsletters that include insights and inspiration, as well as resources, tips and hacks to help navigate the constant juggle of a multirole life. For those who prefer social media, I also offer condensed versions of popular articles and inspirational quotes on my Instagram feed @edaschottenstein.

When have you been most satisfied in your life? I have been most satisfied when making decisions that align with my values versus those that are based on the expectations of others. I keep my focus on steady progress instead of rushing to the finish line; in other words, striving to be better today than I was yesterday and not measuring my success on someone else’s barometer. I am most satisfied when I’m home with my family, or entertaining guests when there’s no technology around.

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What do you love most about entertaining and what is your least favorite part? I love that it gives me the freedom to express myself creatively. I don’t think I’ve ever used the same recipe twice without tweaking it a little. I will often go to restaurants and try to replicate the food at home. It’s essentially a guessing game for me; more often than not, my husband likes my version best (or at least he says so). I love seeing my guests having a great time and will always do my best to make sure they leave feeling full (both physically and spiritually). I don’t like that entertaining often takes away from time I can spend with my kids. Anyone who hosts regularly knows that kids don’t get our undivided attention when we are busy with guests. This is why I believe strongly in making sure to have family meals often or at least whenever possible. I like to make my kids feel special. When we do family dinners, I set the table as I would if guests were coming and we tell our kids that they are our special guests. My husband and I barely get a word in because they have so much to say.

What is your most memorable dinner party or Shabbos meal experience? When we lived in Columbus, OH, we decided to invite a few Jewish couples over, all of whom had never been to a Shabbos meal before. After the fish and salad course, they began to thank us for a beautiful “Thanksgiving-esque”

dinner and were talking about having no room for dessert. They had no idea that the fish course was just the appetizer and I was about to serve a monster rib roast. I can still picture the shocked and puzzled looks on their faces when they saw the array of main courses and side dishes coming out of the kitchen. We have also hosted football players, politicians and actors from all walks of life, some Jewish and some not. The common theme among them is that a Shabbos table is unlike any other.

What is your go-to dish when entertaining? Salmon tartare. It’s my husband's favorite and a real crowd-pleaser. Make sure to ask your fishmonger for the freshest salmon possible. I love to serve it with guacamole. I was thrilled to share my recipe here.

Cooking is an example of an activity that everyone can enjoy with their kids. This is something you advocate for. Tell us more. Parents know the value of spending quality time with their kids, but often they focus on doing just what the kids want to do, without being excited about it themselves. I believe that finding shared interests allows us to spend more time with our children. It can be anything from going on a nature walk to playing Monopoly (something our whole family enjoys). Most kids like baking and being in the kitchen, so if that’s something you enjoy as well, tailor the activity to your child’s age

and ability. At 2 years old, my daughter and I were already baking cookies together. She’s 5 now and knows the recipe by heart. The upside is that I get to spend quality time with her while doing something I enjoy as much as she does. You can find more on this topic under the “Life Hacks” section of my website in an article titled, “Spend Time With Your Kids AND Do What You Love.”

What other general tips do you have for smooth entertaining? Hosting Shabbos is expensive. If hired help isn’t an option, let your guests (and kids!) help out. Help can also come in the form of an appliance. For me, that’s my Mellow sous vide machine, which allows me to cook my roast to a perfect medium-rare every time without worrying. It’s like a sous chef, but better. I am also a fan of making the most out of the freezer. Most things freeze really well so if making a freezer-friendly recipe for dinner one night, double the recipe. Having that extra dinner on hand will save you on a busy (or lazy!) night or if you have last minute guests. Having a spare freezer is key. Even if it’s small, you’d be surprised at how much you can fit inside if you organize strategically. Most of all, don’t let the pressure of hosting stress you out. The point of entertaining is to enjoy your guests and show them a good time. That can’t happen if you are overwhelmed.

What are your favorite staple ingredients? I love egg roll and wonton wrappers for repurposing leftovers. If I have chicken or meat left over, I simply add it to a food processor with a shallot, sesame oil and soy sauce for a fantastic egg roll filling. If I have extra time, I might sauté it for added flavor. Egg roll and wonton wrappers can also be made into chips, a tip I learned from my sister-in-law Raizy. Simply cut to desired size, place on a baking sheet and bake at 375°F until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Serve with salmon tartare or guacamole.

You’re known for putting together your own flower arrangements. How do you approach making a bouquet? There are no rules and I allow myself the creative freedom to do whatever I want to do. That’s my modus operandi. If I were to share a single flower arranging tip, I would say start with hydrangeas. They're like a canvas that you can build upon. I like putting my arrangements together on Wednesday afternoons, which leaves me with one less thing to think about before Shabbos. NOVEMBER 2019

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INTERVIEW

SALMON TARTARE Serves: 10-12 2 pounds sushi-grade salmon ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil Zest and juice of 4 limes 1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger 3 teaspoons toasted sesame oil 3 tablespoons soy sauce ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro, plus more for garnish 1-2 teaspoons hot sauce 1 jalapeño, seeded and minced 1 bunch scallions, chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Diced avocado and crackers, optional, for serving Cut salmon into ¼-inch cubes. Set aside. In a medium bowl, mix olive oil, lime zest and juice, ginger, toasted sesame oil, soy sauce, cilantro and hot sauce. Mix well to combine. Add salmon, jalapeño and scallions; marinate for 1 hour. Season with salt and pepper to taste and garnish with more cilantro. Serve with diced avocado and crackers, if desired.

Eda Schottenstein is the founder and CEO of Multi-Role Woman, a mother of 4, mental health awareness advocate, songwriter and wife to an entrepreneur. Having studied Mental Health and ADHD coaching in graduate school, Eda has become a leader in the women’s empowerment movement. Her mission is to educate women on the power of personal transformation and becoming the protagonists of their life’s story. You can find her at www.multirolewoman.com and Instagram @edaschottenstein. 62

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Veal Scallopini

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BY NAFTALI HANAU PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCHNEUR MENAKER

Veal scallopini are cutlets that generally

mothers, creating a veal that is richer in

come from the boneless shoulder of veal,

color and texture than traditional veal. Veal

which is a very lean cut with complex

scallopini is one of our most popular cuts

muscles and sinew. Therefore, it requires

of meat that we just can't keep up with.

expert butchery to create optimal cutlets.

Rose veal is not as heavy as beef and when

Despite the leanness, when cut uniformly

cut thinly like this, it needs just a quick kiss

and cooked properly, the results are very

of heat to transform it into tender, delicious

tender. Veal comes from young cattle and,

slices.

as such, is typically more expensive than beef. However, scallopini is an inexpensive way to enjoy veal.

Traditionally, veal scallopini is dredged in flour, pan fried and cooked in a rich sauce like lemon-caper or demi-glace. Frying veal

Veal is known for its pale color, but it can

like schnitzel works wonderfully (see next

vary. Grow & Behold sells what is known

page). Another great preparation is stuffing,

as rose veal. Grow & Behold’s calves graze

rolling, pan-searing and cooking in a sauce

on pasture and nurse freely from their

(see pg. 33).

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THE GREAT RE-VEAL.

BUTCHERS CUT: RECIPES

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BUTCHER'S CUT

VEAL SCHNITZEL — ITALIAN STYLE Serves: 8 Veal is a great versatile protein that is a welcome change from chicken. When cutlets are pounded thinly and coated, you get a wonderful milanese (aka schnitzel). When cheese and marinara are added, you get veal parmigiana, the classically non-kosher dish that we were inspired to transform into something just as flavorful and satisfying. 8 veal cutlets, pounded thinly 1¼ cups flour 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 eggs, beaten 3 cups flavored breadcrumbs Oil, for frying 2 cups almond ricotta, recipe follows 2 cups marinara sauce 1 cup roasted salted cashews Fresh herbs, for garnish

Tip Place cutlet between two layers of plastic wrap. Pound with a meat mallet or rolling pin. Add 1 tablespoon nutritional yeast to ground cashews for a more intense cheese-like flavor.

Preheat oven to 450ºF. Create a dredging station with three plates. Combine flour, salt and pepper on one plate, beaten eggs on another and breadcrumbs on the last. Coat cutlets in flour, then eggs and finally, breadcrumbs. Heat 1 inch oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Fry cutlets until golden brown, about 5 minutes per side. Transfer the cutlets to a baking sheet. Top each schnitzel with 2 tablespoons marinara, ¼ cup

almond ricotta and another 2 tablespoons marinara. Bake for 6 minutes. In the meantime, blend cashews until coarse crumbs form to resemble Parmesan. Remove schnitzel from oven and sprinkle cashew crumbs over the top. Garnish with fresh herbs. Serve immediately.

ALMOND RICOTTA Yield: 3 cups This unbelievably simple recipe will blow your mind. Chef Issac Bernstein shared it in our baking issue and it has become a staple ingredient. It can truly pass as ricotta in both resemblance and taste, especially when spread on pizza and topped with accoutrements like beef fry, sliced potatoes and caramelized onions. 2 cups whole blanched almonds 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 teaspoons kosher salt Bring 6 cups of water to boil. Add almonds and simmer for 20 minutes. Drain almonds, reserving the water. Blend almonds in a highpowered blender with lemon juice and salt. Drizzle in reserved water slowly and blend, adding more water as needed to achieve desired consistency. You want the mixture to resemble, well, ricotta! Cover and store in fridge for up to 3 days.

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The Other Side of the Cork:

Elvi Wines-Clos Mesorah Blending Jewish History and Great Spanish Wine BY YAEL E. GELLER, MPH

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remember tasting Elvi wines as a youngster, and I am not sure if I purchased them because of their excellent value or interest in the label, which had my birthday month of Adar plastered across the front. Either way, I have been enjoying Elvi wines since around 2007 and never would I have believed that a visit to the winemakers of Spain was in my future. The opportunity to visit Spain has been a dream of mine for many years. It became a reality one evening while we were discussing wine over dinner and had an epiphany. A few weeks later we packed our bags and were Barcelona-bound. A 1½ hour drive south of Barcelona lies the Spanish wine countryside, which includes the areas of Montsant, Priorat and Tarragona, among others. Spain is an interesting region; located along the Mediterranean coast, the climate can be extremely tame, yet hostile at times. The Trip: Following a beautiful night in Barcelona, we headed to Clos Mesorah

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Estate Winery and were greeted by our good friends, Dr. Moises Cohen and his wife Anne. We drove down a cliff leading to the vines, hoping we would make it to the winery alive. Our fears dissipated as we observed the fall foliage gracing the estate's vines. Hues of yellows and oranges we are accustomed to seeing in fall foliage embraced the thick rootstock buried deep in the landscape. At that moment I knew that this would be an experience of a lifetime for myself and for my family. We headed right to the tasting area of the winery where Anne had prepared a beautiful tasting. We enjoyed the wines slowly while also savoring house-marinated olives, local cheeses and roasted almonds. After the tasting we took a short walk around the medium-sized estate, taking turns chasing our toddler around the olive trees and between the rootstocks, where he was picking second-growth grapes right off the vines and shoving them in his mouth at an alarming speed. Honestly, reminiscing

about that day, I am not sure why we ever left Clos Mesorah — a wine aficianado’s paradise! Elvi Background & Kosher Challenges: The Cohens entered the kosher wine market with plenty of experience from consulting for non-kosher wineries in the past. When they started their winemaking journey in 2003 with the Makor series, the focus was all about quality without compromise. This is a difficult undertaking in the world of kosher. For example, the harvest often falls during the peak season of the high holidays each year. This poses enormous challenges, which if not dealt with correctly, could lead to disastrous results. The most advanced technology exists at the Cohens' winery, including an automated sample dispensing system. This allows for daily tank tastings without the need for the Mashgiach to separate samples manually for quality control. The wines made by the Cohens are organic, close to biodynamic and immersed in biodiversity with all sorts of w w w.f leishigs.com


wildlife roaming the vineyards. Moises and Anne feel they have a big responsibility to create the best wines in the world using all the resources possible. I think it’s safe to say they are doing just that.

overcome; this is one of the most beautiful philosophies about life I have ever heard. The family’s philosophy is simple: the continuous observation of the surroundings is essential in making the best wines. They observe the passing of the seasons, the sun shining, the rain — the earth’s life makes you understand that neither science nor technology are capable of replicating this perfect order. It goes deeper when we observe the circle of life from the land to the plant, from the plant to the grapes and from the grapes to men. Dr. Cohen comments that there is absolutely something magical about this amazing process, which is why it is their passion.

The Wine: The Cohens' wines are made in four distinct regions of Spain: La Mancha, Rioja, Priorat and Montsant. The Elvi label has grown with several offerings, including Adar, Clasico, Matí and the famous EL26 from Priorat. It then expanded even further to a three-tiered series with Viña Encina, Herenza and Criaza. There was also the white and rosé lines of In Vita, which started in 2011, now integrated as part of the Herenza line. The Viña Encina line came about as there was a growing need for table wine with mevushal status; quality, yet inexpensive wines that could be served by caterers and restaurants. The In Vita and Elvi series have been melded into one, now called the Herenza series, which makes it a lot easier to keep track of. In 2008, the Cohen family did something that a Jewish family had not done since the 15th century — they purchased an estate with vineyards and started their estate label named Clos Mesorah. The first vintage of Clos Mesorah sold was the 2009 vintage. Each subsequent vintage has been hugely popular and successful. There is a secret message in the label of Clos Mesorah, which is visible if you look closely at the bottle. This message came about first as a family game but then made its way to the bottle. Historical Significance: Once a country in which Jewry flourished and was eventually destroyed, the status of these wines in Spain is critical in overcoming the hatred that once tried to destroy us, as a testament to our perseverance and eventually the victory over our enemies. The Cohens are the first Jews to own a winery in Spain since the Spanish Inquisition in 1492. Their barrel room is graced by a Hebrew pasuk, which reminds us that our work will be rewarded when we are redeemed by Moshiach. Family Business & Wine Philosophy: Both Anne and Moises are involved heavily in the business and operational aspects of this amazing production, which now includes three separate, but unified labels. I had met Moises at many tastings in the States, but that trip to Barcelona was my first time meeting Anne. I knew it was a family endeavor, but I did not know that Anne does

The Cohens' philosophy about winemaking is simple. It is a union of forces; one single person does not make the wine, but the family inevitably is always submerged in the vineyard and in the wine. There is not a vacation in this business, there is not one single day that you can forget about the winery, vineyards or grapes. As we know, wine is used during all momentous occasions in Judaism. Anne and Moises love to know that Jews around the world use their wines to celebrate Shabbat, weddings, sheva brachot and britot, sometimes on a daily basis. This is their motivation, actively participating in the happiness of so many, which inspires them to improve every day.

a lot of work behind the scenes that I had never thought about. Moises is in charge of managing the vineyards, supervising the harvest and the plantings, while Anne oversees the entire winemaking process. Anne and Moises have been very lucky to have their children join them in this beautiful profession. Their son David, who recently completed his academic courses in the U.S., joined the team and has already proven his skills in sales and marketing. Moises tells me that working together as a family in unity makes the difficult times easier to

Upcoming Projects: Upcoming innovative projects are always in the works for the Clos Mesorah/Elvi lines of wine. There is a new wine called Sublim coming soon. It is a blend of Grenache and Old Vine Carignan from Priorat, aged in barrels for a long time. We had the honor of tasting a barrel sample at the Cohens' dinner table and it is literally sublime. They are also working on a brandy distilled from the 2014 Herenza Rioja, which will be very interesting to taste. Much to my dismay, there will not be a large scale export production of estate olive oil or homemade quince jam. However, a trip to Clos Mesorah will quench the curiosity of those inclined to make the awesome trip out there. L’chaim! Phone: +34 606 18 65 65 Email: david@elviwines.com Address: Clos Mesorah, T-300 km 0,97, 43775, Tarragona, Spain

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Proud to feature Shiloh Wines


TRAVEL

Miami There is good reason why Miami is one of the hottest destinations for kosher travelers. Between the sheer amount of kosher restaurants spread around the entire Miami area, stunning weather, beaches, activities and entertainment, Miami has it all. Whether you are single or traveling with children, there is something for everyone. BY SHIFRA KLEIN

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What to do:

TRAVEL

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hours walking around, discovering funky art shops and of course stopping at the famous bakery and café, Zak the Baker.

5. Lounge on the beach. Even if you aren’t staying at a beachfront hotel, you can purchase beach privileges on sites like www. resortpass.com.

Surfside district in Miami beach

1. Bike the boardwalk 2. Water sports such as jet skiing (try Hector's Jet Ski Tours Miami or Miami Water Sports), parasailing and surfing are perfect for anyone seeking an adventure.

hours. Stay overnight and return in the morning or the same day. Looking for a half day boat ride or cruise and love some good real estate? Book a ride (www.celebritycruises.com) designed to tour the stunning (sometimes celebrity) homes in the Miami area.

3. Take a Cruise.

4. Explore Wynwood.

You can book a cruise to the Bahamas (www.2daycruise. com), which takes about 2

The Wynwood neighborhood has transformed in recent years. It’s worth spending a few

6. Visit the Everglades. Everglades National Park, the largest subtropical wilderness in the United States, is a fun and family-friendly day trip. Take a guided airboat tour through swamps and explore alligators and crocodiles living side-byside. It’s also a great location to hike, bike and go paddle boating. You can also pitch a tent and spend the night to relax and soak up some nature.

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TRAVEL

7. Visit a museum.

8. Jungle Island.

The Jewish Museum of Florida helps discover how Jews have maintained their history, tradition and culture in Florida. The Miami Children’s Museum is filled with activities that focus on art, culture, community, imagination and creativity. It also boasts a two-story sandcastle, a 30-foot rock climbing wall, a life-sized cruise ship and an outdoor playground. The Frost Museum of Science is another family-friendly option. For art enthusiasts, there are wonderful options: The Bass; Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA); and the Pérez Art Museum (PAMM). History buffs would appreciate The Wolfsonian as well as the HistoryMiami Museum. The Holocaust Memorial of Miami Beach is also worth a stop.

Established in 1936, Jungle Island is one of Miami's top family-friendly destinations that combines the beauty of Miami’s tropical landscape with a jungle full of extraordinary animals. Jungle Island houses extremely rare twin orangutans and the world’s only trained cassowary.

10. Eat & Shop at Lincoln Road Mall. South Beach’s iconic outdoor mall has 2 kosher eateries (Marble & Rye and TYO Sushi)

in its food court, making this a hot destination for those who like to eat and shop.

Installed in 1990, the Holocaust Memorial of the Greater Miami Jewish Federation in Miami Beach, was created by the American sculptor Kenneth Treister.

9. Zoo Miami. Zoo Miami is the only tropical zoo in the United States and the largest zoo in Florida. It’s a great day trip activity for families with children of all ages. The path is 3 miles long, so renting a “Safari Cycle” is a fun (and shady!) way of getting around. A new and exciting dinosaur exhibit is set to open in mid-January.

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Where to Stay:

TRAVEL

Know what you want from your Miami vacation to help determine where to stay.

Staying in a beachfront resort or hotel will provide you with the ultimate getaway, with beach and pool access at your fingertips. Plus, not having to worry about towels and beach chairs is an added bonus. There are a variety of hotels to choose from on all spectrums of budget. We recommend choosing a nationally recognized brand for reliable service. Read travel blogs and reviews on TripAdvisor to determine if a particular hotel is up to your standards.

Besides for the national websites (VRBO, HomeAway), there are also kosher companies that specialize in offering kosher homes (some even offer private chef and takeout services like @kosherprivatechef) for even more convenience. Chef Yos Schwartz (@chefyos) is a private chef who comes highly recommended and offers a wide range of services.

those looking for some food adventures. Within Miami, the Surfside/Bal Harbour area has an abundance of great restaurants in a span of two blocks. Most restaurants offer local delivery, call for availability.

Beyond activities and attractions, Miami offers dining experiences to appeal to

so keep that in mind when

Note: Most beachfront hotels charge a valet charge and extra resort fee, budgeting.

Keep in mind that South Beach has a strong party scene and nightlife, so it will be noisier. It is also a bit of a drive from central Miami and most kosher spots, so that is something to consider if food is your priority. Focus on the main attractions you are planning to visit. If it’s museums, stay downtown. If it’s the food scene, Surfside is your best bet. You may also consider a home rental. 74

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TRAVEL WHERE TO EAT BEYOND SURFSIDE:

Where to Eat: RESTAURANT ROW In the span of two blocks on Harding Ave (aka Highway A1A) lies one of the most concentrated areas of kosher restaurants and eateries.

1. Krudo A fish shop meets fresh takeout, Krudo is a hidden gem. With just a few seats, it’s a super option for takeout. Their loaded poke bowls, fish burgers, sushi and fish platters are all phenomenal and well-priced. You can purchase fresh fish and some gourmet groceries as well. They will even pack your fish on ice — talk about service!

2. Soho Asian Grill 1. Cine Citte Caffe. A classic

9. Backyard BBQ. With

dairy restaurant that serves pastas,

head chef Mendel Segal (creator of the Rabbi-Q sauces and spices) at the helm, this newly relocated spot offers delicious comfort food the whole family will love.

fish, salads and more. Their pizzas are fired in a wood burning pizza oven.

2. Rolling-Pin Kosher Pareve Bakery. It’s worth a stop for the guava pastries alone.

3. The Carrot. This healthy meat spot has minimal seating, but is great for a nutritious lunch or dinner. There are also a variety of shakes and smoothies on the menu, as well as many vegetarian and vegan-friendly options.

4. Chai Wok. This no-frills restaurant offers standard Chinese fare, as well as fresh sushi.

5. 26 Sushi & Tapas. Asian and South American cuisines meet in this dairy, fish-centric restaurant. It’s on the pricier side for a dairy meal but the ambiance is upscale and elegant. The sushi menu is fused with South American ingredients like plantains, making it very unique.

signed dairy restaurant with both lunch and dinner menus. We recommend the dinner menu over lunch (they have both and are strict about it so check the times prior to going).

5. 41 Pizza & Bakery

12. Serendipity. This ice

Another new spot, this pizza shop specializes in authentic homemade bourekas and zivas. A ziva is a large potato and cheese boureka that is served with hard-boiled egg, grated tomato and spicy schug. The pizza is quite good as well.

cream spot is charming and great for ice cream lovers of all ages. Everything is homemade in-house and chalav yisrael.

13. Harbour Grill. This classic steakhouse serves consistently delicious dishes with gourmet twists. The space is large, comfortable and has a nice ambiance.

14. Harbour Bistro. Harbour

15. Publix. If you have a kitchen

8. Kosherland Supermarket. This supermarket is a one-stop-shop for kosher groceries. They also sell wine and offer Shabbos takeout packages.

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4. Sardina

Newly opened, you can’t go wrong with a refreshing cup of Italian ice.

7. Kosh. A high-end restaurant that offers steakhouse classics combined with Asian dishes and signature tapas.

See pg. 40

11. Rita’s Italian Ices.

stuffed French toast, pastries and sandwiches.

spot with excellent specials, amazing

3. Sami & Susu

This new Israeli restaurant offers high-end dairy and fish dishes with a generous spirit. Immediately upon being seated, they offer pita, warm bread, hummus and other dips. Everything is fresh and the service is warm and inviting.

Grill’s newly-opened sister restaurant serves excellent charcuterie, the best kosher ramen bowl and elevated versions of comfort food classics, like bao buns and chicken and waffles.

6. Café Vert. A dairy breakfast

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10. Rustiko. A beautifully de-

This restaurant has something for everyone. Amazing Chinese food, fresh sushi, great steakhouse classics and a large cocktail menu to boot. The waffle dessert is a solid option to feed a crowd.

where you are staying, this mega supermarket with a wide variety of kosher products is a good place to shop for ingredients.

16. Nona Bakery & Pizzeria. This homey spot offers coffee, baked goods, bourekas and pizza, making this an inexpensive “anytime” meal option.

6. Levy’s Kosher of Hollywood Minutes away from Ft. Lauderdale International Airport, this Israeli hotspot offers classic Israeli comfort food in a low-key atmosphere. They are known for generous portions and their surprisingly amazing babka.

7. Foozo The real standout at this casual dairy restaurant is the variety of artisan wood-fired pizzas.

8. The Grove The Grove Kosher Market has a few locations in Florida. The owners of the newly-opened location in Hollywood were gracious enough to sponsor our dinner party at Reena Goldberger’s home (see pg. 22). We stopped in on our way to the airport to pick up some goodies for the flight. Besides for the beautifully designed space, we were impressed with the variety of products available there.

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RECIPES

COVER RECIPE: FUNNEL CAKES Serves: 8 RECIPE BY ISAAC BERNSTEIN

Funnel cakes traditionally have a sweet connotation, but they are surprisingly versatile and act as a great canvas for a plethora of savory toppings. This particular batter can be used to go in either a sweet (think copious amounts of confectioners’ sugar) or savory (try our herb variation) direction. Chef Isaac recommends topping funnel cakes with beef tartare or pulled brisket. Feel free to top with your personal favorites. 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 tablespoon sugar 1 egg, beaten 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 2 cups chicken stock 1 tablespoon duck fat or schmaltz Oil, for frying Whisk flour, salt, baking soda and sugar in a bowl until combined. In a separate bowl, whisk egg, Dijon mustard, chicken stock and duck fat. Add wet ingredients into dry mixture and whisk until a smooth batter forms. Heat a 2-inch layer of oil in a pan over medium-high heat to 375°F. Place batter in pastry bag, squeeze bottle or Ziploc bag and pipe batter into oil in a circular motion to create a funnel cake. Fry until lightly golden brown, about 1-2 minutes. Using chopsticks or tongs, flip funnel cakes to finish cooking, an additional 30 seconds to 1 minute on the other side. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with a cooling rack and immediately season with salt. Herb Funnel Cakes: Add 1 tablespoon each of chopped fresh chives, tarragon and parsley to the batter. Proceed with funnel cake recipe. 78

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Pulled Beef: Preheat oven to 350°F. Thinly slice 1 Spanish onion and place in a 9x13-inch baking dish. Top with a 3-pound second cut brisket. Season with 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Add 1⅓ cups beer, cover tightly and cook for 3 hours. Uncover and shred using a fork. Mix in 2 cups barbecue sauce. Cook, uncovered, for another 10 minutes. Serve on funnel cakes or sandwiches. Beef Tartare: Finely dice 1½ pounds rib eye steaks, as fresh as possible. Place in a glass bowl. Add 1 finely diced shallot, 3 finely diced dill pickles, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon whole grain mustard, 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, 1 tablespoon gochujang (or Sriracha), 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Stir until combined. Serve immediately. Top with fresh herbs.

PEANUT BUTTER & JELLY DONUT BY ESTHER MENDELEVICH Fills: 24 donuts One of my most popular donuts from previous years was a peanut butter mousse-filled donut, topped with raspberry preserves and crushed peanuts — who doesn’t love PB&J! This would be a great idea for a family Chanukah party; most bakeries will sell unfilled sufganiyot so you can DIY. 24 store-bought unfilled, unglazed yeast donuts For the filling: 1 (16-ounce) container non-dairy whipped topping 1 (16-ounce) container marshmallow fluff 2 cups creamy peanut butter For the topping 1 cup raspberry preserves ½ cup slightly crushed peanuts Add whipped topping to a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment and beat until soft peaks form. Add marshmallow fluff and peanut butter; mix until incorporated. Place peanut butter mousse into a piping bag fitted with a metal tip and fill each donut. Alternatively, you can use a knife or straw to make a hole in the donut and fill using a Ziploc bag with the end snipped. Microwave preserves until a liquid consistency is reached, about 1 minute. Dip donut directly into preserves to glaze; top with crushed peanuts. Read more about Esther's pop-up donut shop on page 82.

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RECIPE INDEX

MEAT 18 Deli Hash Brown Pizza 33 Veal Involtini with Merguez 34 Short Ribs 35 Cuban Beef Picadillo 58 Shawarma-Flavored Corn Dogs 58 Rye-Flavored Corn Dogs 58 Herb-Flavored Corn Dogs 59 Pastrami Corn Dogs

TOP 5: DONUTS Gabriel Boxer, aka The Kosher Guru, a travel and restaurant pro, shares his "Top 5" most memorable experiences in a specific category. This month, it's all about donuts. Savory, sweet, ooey and gooey! That’s right everyone, it’s sufganiyot season, and those are just some of the adjectives to describe my food of weakness. Move over jelly donut; you’ll always be a staple, but let’s be real, the new age of donuts is here to stay!

67 Veal Schnitzel 67 Veal ‘Parmigiana’ 78 Pulled Beef

FISH & VEGETABLES 31 Leek Mustard Grouper 32 Jerusalem Artichoke Purée 33 Roasted Baby Zucchini 33 Celeriac Purée 34 Cauliflower Béchamel Sauce 34 Roasted Baby Cauliflower 34 Roasted Mushrooms 34 Jammy Onions and Fennel 59 Carrot Corn Dogs 62 Salmon Tartare

APPETIZERS 17 Wontons in Garlic Sauce 18 Hash Brown “Potato Kugel” Waffles 20 Chopped Liver Fritters 30 Squash Soup 48 Za’atar Churros 78 Beef Tartare 78 Funnel Cakes 78 Herb Funnel Cakes

CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 31 Professor Dukkah Blend 32 Candied Kumquats 33 Pistachio Dust 35 Pico De Gallo

 TRADER JOE’S APPLE CIDER DONUT

1

You can always rely on your local Trader Joe’s for conveniently providing an inexpensive option. These fried rings of fluffy, cake-like dough are handrolled in a hefty amount of cinnamon and sugar straight out of the fryer. The apple cider provides the donut with an extra moist texture. My trick for this seasonal item is to stock up on boxes and keep them in the freezer for whenever the mood strikes. Kosher certified by Kof-K Dairy. Contact your local Trader Joe’s for stock

2

 CROISSANT DONUT

Is it a croissant? Is it a donut? This fried delight is the best of both worlds. Made from sheeted pastry dough like a croissant, it’s then fried like a donut, stuffed with vanilla cream, rolled in sugar and topped with icing. This café makes them during Chanukah only, so if you are local, grab them while you can. Kosher certified by Vaad Hakashrus of the 5 Towns and Rockaway. Café Chocolat 556 Central Ave, Cedarhurst, NY (516) 792-2462

35 Avocado Créma 59 Beef Bacon Jam 67 Almond Ricotta

SWEET TREATS 36 Halva Cream Napoleon 36 Halva Chocolate Truffles 36 Toasted Sesame Brittle 45 Warm Chocolate Ganache 48 Churros 78 Peanut Butter and Jelly Donut 80

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 CINNAMON BUN DONUT Cinnamon rolls are no longer only for breaking your fast. Cinnamon bun in

3

flavor, yet donut-like in its fried features, these sticky, glazed bad boys are finger lickin’ good! Kosher certified by RCBC. Butterflake Bakery 448 Cedar Ln, Teaneck, NJ (201) 836-3516

4

 CHOPPED BRISKET SUFGANIYOT

Some people are still trying to wrap their heads around a sweet and savory donut. Kosher Palate in Dallas takes their signature pulled brisket, stuffs it inside dough and fries to perfection. While it’s hard to resist eating it right then and there, if you do take one home, pop it in the oven for 5 minutes for sweet deliciousness. Kosher certified by Vaad of Dallas. Kosher Palate 7989 Beltline Rd Suite 154, Dallas, TX (469) 601-1002

 MINI DONUT WORLD

5

This is not your standard chain donut store experience. Buh-bye Dunkin Donuts and Krispy Kreme, hello Mini Donut World, where customers can customize their dream donut. With four base donut options (including a gluten-free version), 10 icing choices, 22 toppings and six drizzles to choose from, the combinations are endless! Kosher certified by Sunshine State Kosher. 8763 Stirling Rd, Cooper City, FL (954) 369-2301

FOLLOW THE KOSHER GURU on Instagram & Facebook @kosherguru, on Twitter @thekosherguru, his blog at www.thekosherguru.com or subscribe to his YouTube channel. Tune in to “The Nosh” (a kosher foodie and restaurant radio show on 620AM in the NYC area) with Kosher Guru airing every Thursday evenings at 9:30 P.M. You can also check out his popular Facebook group @KosherGuru’sKosherNation. w w w.f leishigs.com


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A DAY IN THE LIFE

Donut PopUp Shop

The kids are off to school and it’s time for the real work to begin. With 10 different donut flavors on my “menu,” there are a lot of components that need to be put together. I check my master list and figure out how many of each type of donut I have on order for the day. This year I focused exclusively on my line of “drunken donuts” and savory donuts. I fill dozens of margarita donuts before moving on to the chocolate martini variety, followed by the popular piña colada. Once all the donuts are filled, I glaze them all and insert the corresponding pipettes.

Most of the drunken donuts are completed and it’s time to put away all the pareve stuff and switch over to begin the meat donuts. The pulled beef donuts (which were filled before being formed) are fried in a separate fryer and then glazed with a meat jus and topped with more pulled beef. The “bacon” needs to be candied and the fat rendered to use in the glaze. The liver pâté donuts need to be filled and topped with a cherry glacé.

Esther Mendelevich is a Brooklyn-based blogger who has been selling her signature donuts locally for the past three years. She has inspired a following of donut lovers who clamor to get their hands on her gourmet treats each Chanukah season. Her most unique donuts include her savory liver pâté donut topped with cherry glacé, as well as her collection of “boozy” donuts. You can follow her adventures on Instagram @the_culinary_trio.

I rush to package all of the orders for my customers. On an average day, there are over 30 individual orders that are prepared for pickup.

My house is still blissfully silent, the day has not yet begun and I am already exhausted, but it’s time to fry the beautifully-risen donuts. Into the deep fryer they go; the oil must stay between 340-360°F for optimal results. In previous years, I relied on my oil thermometer, but this year I invested in a large deep fryer, which will control the temperature for me. Frying 8-10 donuts at a time, I complete 150 donuts just as my kids begin to wake up. I pause donut mode and enter mommy mode.

am

12:00

pm

The last of the orders are filled and my kitchen is in complete disarray. Bowls and injectors strewn all over the place. Glaze and powdered sugar cover every surface of my house. This is what accomplished feels like. I take it all in before cleaning up.

2:00 a

m

Carpool — a mother’s job is never done. The house is starting to look less like a bakery and more like a home again. With my preschooler home, I attempt to start dinner, then the rest of the brood arrives. Meanwhile, my doorbell rings constantly by those picking up their donuts. I haven’t sat down in over 14 hours but the faces of my customers are well worth it. Kids are fed, homework is done and now it’s time for my family to also celebrate Chanukah — we light candles, give out presents, eat store-bought donuts (as the saying goes, “the shoemaker’s kids…”).

5:00 a

m

The kids are asleep and I’m exhausted, but it’s time for all the computer work. Figure out how many donuts I need to make tomorrow and make sure I have enough of everything for the next day’s baking session. My work is finally done and everything is ready for tomorrow. The dishes are washed, kitchen is clean and all the ingredients are in the house. It’s finally time to go to sleep.

6:15 a

m

There goes the alarm again… Time to make more donuts.

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Turn to page 78 for Esther's peanut butter and jelly donut recipe. 82

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We caught up with Esther to find out what it takes to successfully manage each donut season, where she single handedly produces over 150 donuts a day, for a total of over 1,000 donuts across the 8 days of Chanukah. This is what a typical day looks like in preparation for this unique donut venture: I fight my instincts to press snooze on my alarm and get out of bed. It’s almost Chanukah, which means it’s donut season. The first step in the process has already been done. I start a few weeks in advance of Chanukah, baking, rolling dough into perfect circles and filling the chest freezer with bags upon bags of dough balls. It’s finally time to take the dough out to rise. This process usually takes about three hours, which gives me just enough time to transform my dining room table into a workstation and make sure all my fillings, glazes and toppings are ready. I prepare curds, mix alcohol into cocktails, fill pipettes, sift confectioners’ sugar and get everything in place for the donuts to be filled.

8:00 a

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