Fleishigs Magazine Issue 018 - July 2020 by Fleishigs Magazine

page 69

SHACKIN UP WITH SHAKSHUKA. page 69

ISSUE J U LY 2 0 2 0

page 28

LIFEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S SABICH: GRILLED SABICH PLATTER

N 018

PEAS, LOVE & CARROTS, A (LABOR OF) LOVE STORY.

EDITOR’S LETTER

SUMMER GADGETS Essentials and extras to enhance your summer cooking

HOT 5 Our favorite unique staples for making this issue

SUMMER PRODUCE Building a producecentered menu with Celeste Hackel

BUTCHER'S CUT

This month, meat expert Naftali Hanau shares the wonders of this unknown cut — Denver steak.

SEASONAL

Create full flavor with half the smoke

28 COOKBOOK REVIEW Behind the scenes of Peas Love & Carrots: The Cookbook 38 RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Krudo in North Miami Beach, FL 64 BREAKFAST-INSPIRED BBQ Make over your dinner 70 MOROCCAN PANTRY The essentials for Moroccan cooking with guest editor Danielle Renov

BACK POCKET

TAGINE The art of the tagine with Levana Kirschenbaum

100 INTERVIEW Yosaif Krohn of Café Chocolat in Cedarhurst, NY

Corn three ways with private chef Hudi Riven

82 TRAVEL

Paris + How to eat like a Parisian

102 L’CHAIM Breaking down French wines 104 NO-BAKE DESSERTS Elevating the icebox cake with Rosa Seidenwar 114 LAST BITE Danielle’s Watermelon Slush 112 RECIPE INDEX

GUEST EDITOR: DANIELLE RENOV @PEASLOVENCARROTS BORN AND RAISED IN NEW YORK, Danielle Renov brings her Moroccan and Mediterranean-influenced recipes to her vast following out of her home in Jerusalem, Israel. She loves to have fun in the kitchen and shares her passion for cooking with an infectious personality. From blogging and vlogging, restaurant consulting, recipe developing, cooking demos and now author of the soon-to-bereleased cookbook, Peas Love & Carrots: The Cookbook, Danielle greets all her followers daily with a huge smile and positive outlook. Visit Danielle at www.peaslovencarrots.com and on Instagram @peaslovencarrots.

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EDITOR'S LETTER

SUMMER ISSUE

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein

Fresh Ideas for Summer

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein

THIS SUMMER WILL definitely be an interesting transition to a new normal, but no matter what the future holds, there is no doubt that the present is worth living. As always, food is a big part of that. To celebrate summer, we put together an issue themed around fresh ideas for summer, whether that be experimenting with different flavor profiles and cooking techniques or trying new food experiences. Now is the time to branch out and create memories and experiences through food. One seasonal trend that made it into this issue was reworking menus with produce as the main component. Think smoked beets, whole grilled eggplant and steak salad (where for once, steak is not the primary feature). Another trend we explored was the private chef industry, which has expanded now that dining out is more limited and large catered events are temporarily on hold. We spoke to Chef Hudi Riven who shared some really fun twists on corn — arguably one of our favorite summer ingredients. We couldn’t have a summer issue without grilling, but we took it to the next level with grilled breakfast-themed feasts inspired by Israel and South Africa. Did you know you can make hard boiled eggs on the grill? You will be blown away by that technique as well as the grilled sabich platter they appear on. Our mission at Fleishigs is to share content, stories and recipes that are “ungoogleable.” Inspired by our mission, we have conceptualized a simple way for any home cook to smoke foods at home with minimal effort and expertise. For many people, summer usually means

COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss

travel. As borders around the world begin to open, we decided to share a detailed guide to Paris as a kosher traveler, based on our trip a few months ago before COVID-19. Compelled to make this an accessible experience for all of our readers, we compiled an “Eat Like a Parisian” feature, so you can enjoy the flavors of Paris in the comfort of your own home. While many restaurants are reopening with certain restrictions, we decided it would be appropriate to feature Krudo, a boutique fish shop and casual takeout restaurant in North Miami Beach. In addition to their fully-loaded poke bowls and other delicious lunch options, Krudo’s ready-to-cook fish items allow locals to create a gourmet athome dinner experience. With that feature come some awesome fish recipes, just in time for the Nine Days. Another story that we have been excited to share since we started working on it in the fall was the behind-the-scenes look into the making of Danielle Renov’s new venture, Peas Love & Carrots: The Cookbook. Danielle joined us as guest editor to amp up this already packed issue. Danielle shared some recipes from her book, as well as a full feature on Moroccan pantry basics and a surprising tagine recipe that highlighted elevating humble ingredients to new heights. Have the best summer, enjoy every moment and share your food creations with us @fleishigsmag or hello@fleishigs.com. We love hearing from you! Bitayavon, Shifra

EDITOR Elisheva Taitz

PROOFREADER Sara Linder ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Alana White MARKETING & BRANDING Mann Sales Co. COPYWRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Thank you to Fishs Eddy for providing many of the beautiful dishes used to photograph recipes for this issue. Visit www.fishseddy.com or their store located at 888 Broadway at 19th Street in NYC for flatware, diningware, kitchenware, silverware, linens and more.

TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine

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YayLabs Soft-Shell Ice Cream Ball This is a fun and interactive way to make homemade ice cream with kids. After 25 minutes of active play and throwing, you’ll have a delicious treat to enjoy.

OXO ICE CREAM TRIGGER SCOOP

www.amazon.com $40

This ice cream scoop easily releases perfect 2¼-inch scoops of ice cream. It has a comfortable non-slip handle and is dishwasher safe as well. www.oxo.com $10.99

WEBER KETTLE CHARCOAL GRILL

WEBER RAPIDFIRE CHIMNEY STARTER

While a gas grill is definitely easier and quicker to use, when we have extra time, we always go for a classic charcoal grill and the 26-inch variety is the perfect size. The flavor it brings to the table is indisputable. We also used the same grill to create a smoker that worked perfectly for the half-smoked technique that we shared in this issue.

This gadget is an essential tool for charcoal grilling to help the coals light properly. It comes in two sizes (compact and regular) and has an easyto-grip handle. www.weber.com $13.99-$19.99

www.weber.com $329

Nostalgia Hot Dog Maker This retro-style hot dog maker cooks two hot dogs and buns in tandem and is the perfect gift for a hot dog lover. www.amazon.com $19.99

Hamilton Beach Breakfast Sandwich Maker This two-tiered machine creates a custom sandwich in minutes. You can toast bread while simultaneously cooking eggs or burgers in a separate compartment, without ever turning on the stovetop. Available in single or double sandwich maker options. www.target.com $24.99 $39.99

ICE CREAM MACHINE To make the gourmet corn ice cream, we used the Cuisinart Ice Cream/Frozen Yogurt Maker. We loved how easy it was to assemble, use and clean. It can be used for making frozen yogurts and sorbets and makes the perfect gift for someone who likes to try new things. The ice cream base needs to be frozen prior to use and only makes about 1½ quarts of ice cream at a time, so it’s perfect for small batch creations. www.focuscamera.com $70

Chef'n Cob Corn Stripper Strip corn off the cob in seconds with this handy, easy-to-store tool. It’s ideal for making corn salads like Hudi Riven’s corn succotash. www.amazon.com $7.69

LODGE CAST IRON PAN In our grilled breakfast-for-dinner feature, we shared how much you can do with a pan on your grill. We can’t get enough of the basic 10¼-inch cast iron pan. It is an inexpensive, long-lasting pan that cooks steaks and burgers to perfection every time. www.lodgemfg.com $14.99

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Cave Tools Meat Claws

This tool is indispensable for pulling beef, lamb or chicken and is the perfect gift for a barbecue enthusiast. www.amazon.com $19.99

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STAPLES

NY SHUK HARISSA RUB NY Shuk’s line of Middle Eastern rubs are all spot on, but my personal favorite is the herby harissa rub, which is absolutely perfect on roasted chicken and potatoes. Harissa is a pepper-based, mildly spicy condiment that can often be found in different forms — as a paste, sauce or dry rub. www.nyshuk.com MINA HARISSA Mina is THE brand for Moroccan specialty items. Their harissa sauce is pretty mild and has great flavor from garlic and spices. Harissa is a critical ingredient in Moroccan cuisine, but we use it in sandwiches, to top eggs and even as a mix-in to make dips. www.casablancafoods.com TUSCANINI TOMATO PASTE Tomato paste is one of the most versatile pantry ingredients to stock. It goes in everything from pasta to soups and stews and adds great depth of flavor. Tuscanini’s tomato paste comes in a tube, making it easy to measure and store. www.tuscaninifoods.com PAS NISHT GLUTEN-FREE WRAPS These soft, delicious wraps are the perfect accompaniment to the saucy tagines (pages 73 and 79) for a more authentic eating experience. Serve as an alternative to pita in the Shakshuka (page 69) or Grilled Sabich Platter (page 69). Soft in texture and delicious in flavor, these wraps encourage eating with your hands! MRS. H.S. BALL'S ORIGINAL RECIPE CHUTNEY This sauce is a classic South African condiment and is available in various flavors and spice levels. The classic version can best be described as a more gourmet version of duck sauce, with the most common use being as a dipping sauce or glaze. www.worldmarket.com 16

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STAPLES

Serves: 4

2 4 1 1

Spanish onions, sliced chicken legs cup chutney (such as Mrs. H.S. Ballâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s or similar) cup Coca-Cola Chopped scallions and parsley, for garnish

1. Preheat oven to 350Â°F. 2. Place onions in the bottom of a 9x13-inch baking dish and top with chicken pieces. 3. Combine chutney and Coca-Cola and pour over chicken. 4. Cook, uncovered, for 1 hour. Serve hot.

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SUMMER PRODUCE

HINK ABOUT THE process by which we typically plan and shop for our meals. It’s common to start with a protein or carb as the main, then add the veggie side or salad that goes with it. We may decide on chicken with roasted potatoes and zucchini, similar to how we’d order in a restaurant — steak for the main, with a side of broccoli. It struck me how subtle, yet powerful, of a distinction it would create to shift our mindset a bit and let our meals start with the produce, to be inspired by the produce, instead of relegating them to the requisite sides we know we should have. This small change in how we approach our meal planning actually shapes more healthful eating without having to try too hard. When I think of summer, I can’t help but think of all the fresh seasonal produce that’s associated with it — sweet corn, refreshing watermelon, bright heirloom tomatoes, leafy greens — and all the dishes I look forward to making with them. They’re not just the “sides,” they have so much potential to be the stars of the show.

WHEN I GO TO a farmers’ market or grocery store and see the jewel-toned beets, baby eggplants or vibrant yellow peppers, I envision how I can create new, healthy meals around them that still include all my proteins and carbs. When the basil is bright and fragrant, I think of tomato basil salad topped with grilled chicken for this week; next week I may use it to make a pesto, marinade or salad dressing. The baby summer squash may prompt me to look for other vegetables that will fuse together nicely in a quinoa salad that I’ll top with grilled salmon. Instead of buying half a watermelon for

my barbecue, I’ll buy a whole one and combine half with feta, fresh mint and pomegranate for a light lunch salad tomorrow. It’s a very different thought process than buying some vegetables to serve with dinner. WE’RE ALWAYS

trying to find ways to get more fruits and vegetables into our diets. By starting with them and creating our meals around them, we give them prominence and include more of them more effortlessly. It also fosters a more flavorful plate, keeps our menu fresh and diverse and expands our creativity in the kitchen, in a way that is organic (no pun intended), fun and nutrient-dense.

EGGPLANT: Grilled Sabich Platter BEETS: Smoked Beets STRAWBERRY: Strawberry Shortcake Ice Box Cake WATERMELON: Watermelon Slush CORN: Corn Succotash PEACHES: Steak Salad LETTUCE: Steak Salad FRESH PEAS: Corn Succotash CUCUMBERS: Smoked Salmon Platter; Sabich RADISHES: Smoked Salmon Platter; Steak Salad MINT: Corn Succotash; Steak Salad

Celeste Hackel is a certified health coach in Woodmere, New York. With a master’s degree in Organizational Psychology from Columbia University, health coach certification from the Institute of Integrative Nutrition and a lifelong passion for health and wellness, her focus goes beyond nutrition. She works with clients to simplify and prioritize health through meal planning, fitness and holistic health. You can find her on instagram at @healthy.to.the.core for more easy-to-follow, nutritious recipes and health tips.

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SUMMER PRODUCE

Quick Pickled Vegetables Yields: 2 cups

Recipe by: Kim Kushner I always have a jar of pickled vegetables in my fridge. Feel free to use any crunchy vegetables you have on hand (carrots, celery, fennel...) and any vinegar (try balsamic or apple cider for deeper flavor). Note: Shaking the jar every once in a while will ensure that the amazing flavor is distributed throughout the entire jar.

1 2 ½ ½ 3 1 ½ ¼

small red onion or ½ large onion, thinly sliced Persian cucumbers, thinly sliced watermelon radish, peeled and thinly sliced cup extra-virgin olive oil tablespoons vinegar teaspoon dried herbs (basil, oregano, thyme) teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Place vegetables into a glass jar and add oil, vinegar, herbs, salt and pepper. Seal the jar tightly and shake. 2. Let sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, up to 24 hours. 3. Store in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. 20

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PICKLING DOESN’T HAVE TO BE JARRING Kim Kushner is a teacher and the author of three best-selling cookbooks, ‘I ♥ Kosher’, ‘The New Kosher’ and ‘The Modern Menu’. Raised in Montreal, Canada, Kim learned to cook at an early age from her Moroccan-born mother and spent summers with family in Israel. A graduate of the Institute of Culinary Education in Manhattan, she has developed recipes for Food and Wine and Chile Pepper magazine. Kim lives in New York City with her husband and children. Find Kim on Instagram @ kimkushnercuisine or visit her site kimkushner.com. www.fleishigs.com

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BUTCHER'S CUT

N 2014, just before Shavuot, we launched the Denver steak. Its introduction was buried at the end of an email about cheese. For years it was billed as a budget cut, a “great alternative to ribeye” or “something new to try." Six years later, it sells out every week. So how did a steak that was basically unheard of become the darling of the kosher world? It’s a mighty fine steak, that’s how. Denver steak has great flavor, no gristle and can be or Denver marinated dry-rubbed. steak is It’s a wella well- marbled cut that is most marbled cut similar to that is mosts the center of ribeye, similar to the offering just the center of the right the ribeye. amount of marbleization. When seared at high heat and sliced into 1/4-inch slices (always against the grain, please), it is beloved by children and adults alike.

incentive to find creative ways to use all of the kosher parts of the steer, taking the time to learn how to cut the Denver steak out of the rest of the chuck underblade (which is basically only suitable for stew or grind) made a lot of sense for us. One of our butchers told us, “I think we should make this steak,” and the rest is history. When left whole, we sell this section as French roast; when cut into steaks, it yields our petite French brisket and Denver steaks (which you may sometimes find labeled as New York strip, zabuton or underblade steaks). We like to cook Denver steaks with our CocoaCumin Rub. My sister’s kids love it with our American Marinade (both recipes follow). You can grill or sous vide the steaks and then sear to finish. They are even divine with nothing but salt and pepper. Move over, ribeyes.

Try

DON'T HAVE DENVER? RIB EYE

CHUCK STEAK F L AT I R O N S T E A K OY S T E R S T E A K

What to do if you overcooked your steak? Simple, make pulled beef! Place your overcooked steak in a pan with 1 sliced onion, 1 cup broth and ½ cup barbecue sauce. Cover and braise in a 350°F oven for 2½ hours, then shred with a fork. Stuff into a toasted bun and enjoy.

IF IT SEEMS LIKE this steak was invented out of thin air, you’re not totally wrong. It’s a relatively new steak in the non-kosher market as well. It was “discovered” and introduced by the Cattlemen’s Beef Board in 2009 as part of a program to identify and promote potentially more affordable cuts. In the kosher world, where we have even more

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Summer Steak Salad cooking, so that it cooks more evenly. 2. Pat meat dry with a paper towel and rub all over with spice rub of choice. 3. Heat a cast iron pan or grill pan over high heat. Add oil and sear meat for 4 minutes per side. 4. Let rest for 10-15 minutes. Slice and serve.

Sous Vide Denver Steak Serves: 4

1½ 1 ½ 2

pounds Denver steak teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoons grapeseed oil, divided

1. Place meat in a sous vide bag and add salt, pepper and 1 teaspoon oil.

Marinated Denver Steak Serves: 4

1½ 1

pounds Denver steak cup American Marinade (recipe follows) or any marinade of choice

1. Place meat in a large Ziploc bag and pour marinade inside. 2. Refrigerate for 4-24 hours. 3. Heat grill to high. Remove meat from marinade and grill for 5 minutes per side. 4. Let rest for 10-15 minutes. Slice and serve.

Spice-Rubbed Denver Steak Serves: 4

We love spice rubs and for good reason. They are a surefire way to impart tons of flavor into your meat. You can go simple with salt and pepper or choose something more complex like the Cocoa-Cumin Rub below, our All-Purpose Spice Rub (page 50) or the South African Biltong Rub (page 66). 1½ pounds Denver steak ¼ cup spice rub of choice 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil 1. Bring meat to room temperature by placing on the counter for up to 1 hour prior to

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2. Set sous vide machine to 130°F. Seal meat in a sous vide or Ziploc freezer bag and cook for 3 hours. 3. Remove meat from sous vide bag and pat dry with a paper towel. 4. Heat a cast iron pan or grill pan over high heat. Add the remaining oil and sear meat for 2 minutes per side. 5. Slice and serve.

Serves: 4

1 1 1 1

1 ½ 1 ⅓

By: Shifra Klein

head red leaf lettuce peach, sliced avocado, sliced cup cherry tomatoes, halved cup snow peas cup sliced radishes pound cooked steak, sliced cup Balsamic Vinaigrette (recipe follows)

1. Arrange lettuce, sliced peach and avocado, cherry tomatoes, snow peas and radishes on a large platter. 2. Top with sliced steak, then drizzle dressing on top. Serve immediately. BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE:

Combine ⅓ cup balsamic vinegar, ½ cup olive oil, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon honey, ½ teaspoon kosher salt, ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Mix until smooth and emulsified.

American Marinade Yields: Heaping ¾ cup

1 2 2 ½ 1

By: Rachel Rosen

tablespoon mustard tablespoons red wine vinegar tablespoons soy sauce or liquid aminos cup ketchup clove garlic, minced Crushed red pepper, optional

Combine all ingredients. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

Cocoa-Cumin Rub Yields: Heaping ¼ cup

1 1

1 2

By: Naftali Hanau

tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon cumin tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, crushed tablespoon cocoa powder teaspoons allspice

Combine all ingredients. Store in the pantry for up to 3-6 months.

Naftali Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertlybutchered premium quality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces pasture-raised beef, veal, lamb and poultry, with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at growandbehold.com.

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BY: SHIFRA KLEIN

COOKBOOK REVIEW

THERE WAS A FRESH pop of energy as I entered the location of

Danielle Renov’s cookbook shoot, an expansive prop studio in NYC, to get a behind-the-scenes look into the making of Peas, Love & Carrots: The Cookbook. This will be Danielle’s first “and only” cookbook, a sentiment proclaimed by many a cookbook author, though I am not entirely sure about that. Months before its release there was already much buzz about the book that is slated to become one of the most popular kosher cookbooks of all time. PEAS, LOVE & CARROTS was born in 2016 out of Danielle’s kitchen in Jerusalem and her popular Instagram page quickly followed. Danielle’s fresh content, style and photography propelled her as a leading food blogger in the kosher scene. We would be remiss to credit Danielle’s food alone to the

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COOKBOOK REVIEW

unparalleled growth of her online following, amassing over 50,000 followers in a mere few years, because Danielle’s infectious personality and positive, real attitude play a huge role in making her extremely relatable. A cookbook was always a dream of Danielle’s and she was up for the challenge as soon as the opportunity came along. Ahead of the photoshoot, Danielle had to narrow down the amount of recipes she wanted to include (265), decide how many to photograph (185) and more importantly, how to go about choosing a “dream team” (read more about that on page 34). Danielle set aside four weeks to shoot it all, divided into two separate trips to NYC. As Danielle was holding a blueberry yogurt in one hand while feeding her nine-month-old daughter, Elisheva, with the other, she was discussing the hoisin-glazed skirt

steaks with lead food stylist Frances Boswell. They were cooked exactly as described in the book, finished with a rich, sweet and sticky glaze. Frances made sure that everything was prepared precisely as described in the book and didn’t use any theatrics or tricks when styling the food. FRANCES BOSWELL HAS a rich background in food writing and styling, from food editor of Martha Stewart magazine to food director of Real Simple magazine. This was her first time working on a kosher project and she shared her thoughts on shopping at Gourmet Glatt on a Friday morning, one of the busiest days in the store. “We left thinking — thank God for the liquor store across the street!” Frances explained, “Working on this book is not just about pretty pictures, it's about telling a unique story, it's about the rituals and reasons.”

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COOKBOOK REVIEW

HROUGHOUT THE photoshoot, everyone, including the staff from the prop studio, was able to experience a taste of Danielle's book and they all shared positive feedback. Most notable was how inspiring they found the Moroccan recipes. Danielle is half Ashkenaz and half Moroccan and her book will showcase influences from both. PHOTOGRAPHER MOSHE Wulliger was on board with Danielle’s vision to only use natural light, so since the photoshoot took place during the late fall months, shooting hours were limited to 10 AM - 4 PM. Ayesha I LIKE Patel, the prop stylist CHANNELING H E R TAST E for the book, found the AND perfect surfaces and props UTILIZING that spoke to Danielle’s ETHNIC modern yet classic vision, P RO PS F RO M even incorporating VA R I O U S some vintage props that S H U KS Danielle brought from Israel and Morocco. “I like channeling her taste and utilizing ethnic props from various shuks. It is rare to be able to do that. I love that Danielle's taste incorporates imperfect pieces,” said Ayesha. Danielle took every skill level into account when formulating the content of the book and has truly imparted her voice into every word.

T H E B O O K: I N B R I E F Title: Peas, Love & Carrots: The Cookbook Pages: 436 Recipes: 254 Release Date: July 31, 2020 Publisher: Artscroll Author: Danielle Renov List price: $39.99

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Ayesha and Danielle talking props in front of the photo board that laid out all of the pictures as the shoot progressed.

THE TEAM

Food Stylists: Frances Boswell and her assistant Leila Clifford Prop Stylist: Ayesha Patel Photographer: Moshe Wulliger

The set up of the Chipotle Barbecue Broiled Skirt Steak (recipe follows)

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MY PERSPECTIVE

H E R E I S J U ST A TAST E O F W H AT YO U CA N E X P ECT TO F I N D I N P E AS LOV E & CA R ROTS : THE COOKBOOK

BY: DANIELLE RENOV

CHIPOTLE BARBECUE BROILED SKIRT STEAK Reprinted with permission from Peas Love & Carrots, The Cookbook, page 250

HE COOKBOOK WAS not an easy feat by any stretch of the imagination. I hold myself to extremely high standards when it comes to my work. When I was in the planning stages of the book, I came to the realization that in order for me to be fully in charge of every aspect of the production of this cookbook, I would need to assemble a trustworthy team of experts. I had spoken to many cookbook authors before me who did everything on their own — cooking, styling and photography — and it made for a very stressful experience. While I knew that writing a cookbook was not going to be easy, I wanted to be present in each moment. Therefore, I rented an amazing studio and hired the best food stylist, prop stylist, kitchen assistants and photographer that I could find, which would in turn give me the liberty to effortlessly float through each part, having my hand in everything. To be quite honest, I didn’t know what to expect with others cooking and styling my recipes, something I am usually in complete control over, but the time we spent together in the studio was extraordinary. It was a wildly creative and artistic space and the energy was palpable every hour of every day, even when we were all exhausted. The experience was a fully immersive one — I was in control of everything without actually being in control. This taught me a great deal about myself and opened up my eyes to something that months prior, I was skeptical about.

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We love this skirt steak on a Friday night and we love it even more on Shabbos day, sliced against the grain and added to a leafy green salad, topped with onions and whatever grilled veggies are left from Friday night, with either a balsamic vinaigrette, a creamy Asian vinaigrette or a Caesar dressing! 3 1 1 2 2

pounds (1½ kg) skirt steak tablespoon apple cider vinegar cup fave BBQ sauce chipotles in adobo, mashed with a fork tablespoons adobo sauce

1. Cut skirt steak into 2-3 inch pieces. 2. Place in a bowl and cover with cold water and vinegar. Soak meat for 30 minutes, then rinse and pat dry. 3. In a bowl, combine remaining ingredients; add steak. Marinate for 30 minutes or up to overnight in the fridge. 4. To cook, set oven to broil. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place skirt steaks on prepared baking sheet. Reserve marinade. 5. Broil for 6 minutes on one side. Remove from oven; brush with reserved marinade. 6. Flip steaks over, brush the second side with marinade. Return baking sheet to oven. Broil for 4-5 minutes. 7. Remove from oven, slice against the grain and enjoy. (To cook more well done, after broiling, set oven to 350°F / 180°C, cover pan tightly with foil, and cook for 15 minutes.)

DEVELOPING, WRITING and perfecting the sheer quantity of recipes was another hurdle I had to overcome, not being a recipe follower myself. I had to hone in on all of the written nuances of recipes and ingredients, cooking, plating and making sure that each recipe was easy to follow for a beginner or an expert alike. The hardest challenge of all was editing the list of recipes from the arsenal that is my overflowing brain. I really wanted to create a timeless collection of recipes

worthy of the precious space on your shelf. I needed it to be something that could be used on a harried Tuesday night when you’re short on time or for Shabbos, a holiday or special occasion. I also did a lot of crowdsourcing to find out what “the people” wanted and I truly listened to my followers, the Peas Love & Carrots community. I consider this book a true collaboration and I am honored to have been given the opportunity to bring it all to life. www.fleishigs.com

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POWER COUPLE JACOB AND MARIEL COTTER, PROPRIETORS OF KRUDO, HAVE TRANSFORMED THE KOSHER FISH SCENE IN SOUTH FLORIDA. JULY 2020

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

BORN AND RAISED in Venezuela, Jacob Cotter was

always extremely hardworking and motivated. He moved to the United States in pursuit of a dentistry degree at the University of Pennsylvania and moved back home to work for many years as a dentist. After moving to Florida with his wife Mariela, dentistry proved to be very challenging and he sought a career change. When faced with an opportunity to break into the construction business, he immediately jumped at the chance. It was very lucrative for a while and something he truly enjoyed. Seven years ago, while grocery shopping, the Cotters realized that there was a void in the market for fresh, quality kosher fish. They started to research the industry and with advice from Jacob’s brother, an expert in the specialty food business and creator of Craize Corn Crisps, they decided to take the plunge. In 2017 the Cotters opened Krudo Fish Market, a boutique shop specializing in top-quality fish. Their goal was to bring the freshest fish and specialty items to North Miami Beach and the surrounding areas. “Sometimes I just sit in the store and watch customers come and go. I’m in awe of this place and God’s hand in making it happen,” Jacob shared happily. With a degree in Hospitality Management from Florida International University and prior experience working in the food industry, Mariela takes full reins of the day-today aspects of the business, the menu and the customer service, while Jacob handles all the backend logistics and ordering. “My wife is the heart and soul of the store. When

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regular customers come in, she greets them happily. She is the one people want to be served by and she does it all with a smile.” Krudo’s fish is brought in fresh daily and prepared both whole and fileted — “from boat to store,” Jacob is fully involved. Nothing is ever left overnight. “Our motto is fresh. If I wouldn’t feed it to my own family, I won’t bring it into the store,” Jacob noted. When you walk into the shop, there is no fishy smell, which is indicative of the freshness of the fish. Besides for fresh fish, Krudo also offers on-the-spot grilling, fish burgers, kani salads by the pound and various specialty items like sesame fish sticks, salmon skewers, Moroccan salmon, paella and a line of 11 all-natural sauces. Beautiful herring, tartare and carpaccio platters grace the shelves of the refrigerated display case, a welcomed addition to any Shabbos table or party. “We want to give our guests the ability to take shortcuts without skimping on quality or flavor,” Jacob said. They pride themselves in being very affordable, which brings in non-kosher clientele as well. The last thing the Cotters want is to be considered expensive, so they work tirelessly to maintain their price points. The shop draws in a significant lunch crowd, which inspired their lunch offerings, such as fully loaded poke bowls with unlimited toppings, salads, sushi and more. Krudo also offers catering, with poke bars and custom “sushi cakes” — rice layered with fish, kani and vegetables, www.fleishigs.com

BEYOND SELLING A WIDE VARIETY OF FRESH FISH, KRUDO OFFERS READY-TO-EAT OPTIONS, MAKING IT AN INEXPENSIVE SPOT TO ENJOY FRESH FISH DISHES.

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

FISH 101 BY: SHIFRA KLEIN

WILD VERSUS FARMED

Wild fish swim freely and eat what nature provides. There are no added antibiotics, growth hormones or coloring agents. Plus, the flesh is briny and delicious. Farmed fish are bred in a controlled environment. Some farms feed their fish organically and some don’t. Do your research when it comes to purchasing farmed fish. SIGNS OF FRESH FISH

Fish filets should be glossy, firm and smell like the sea — not fishy. Ask your fishmonger if you can smell the fish. If purchasing a whole fish, the eyes should be shiny and gills should be bright red. When purchasing salmon, halibut or bass, ask for filets that are at least one inch thick. Thicker filets are easier to cook and don't dry out as easily.

The food chain has a new head

a true showstopper (advance ordering required). Aside from the bounty of fresh fish available, Krudo also sources top-quality specialty grocery items like condiments, sauces, oils, olives, snacks and more. The Cotters are always focusing on how they could expand and become better, while still remaining boutique in quality. With only a small crew of a few tight-knit employees, Krudo is truly a small family business. They are currently working on perfecting their recipe for fish sausages, something that is not readily found in the kosher market. Employing very high standards and taking no shortcuts, Jacob says there’s “no turning back.” Having finally found his passion after a long road, he wouldn’t have it any other way.

Krudo is located at 17092 West Dixie Highway North Miami Beach, FL 33160 // 786.440.5483 www.krudofish.com Delivery available through the Best of Boca delivery service, servicing the Miami-Dade, Broward and Palm Beach counties. Find them on Facebook @BestOfBoca Elisheva Taitz is a wife and mother to three children, full-time Payroll/HR Manager by day, Fleishigs editor, food writer and recipe developer by night. Find her on Instagram @thatswhatshemade.

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STORING FISH

Once you get your fish home, place in a reusable storage bag and then place that bag in a pan of ice in the coldest part of the refrigerator. The fish will stay fresh for one or two days. The basic rule of thumb is to eat fresh fish as soon as possible.

“We want to give our guests the ability to take shortcuts without skimping on quality or flavor.”

HOW TO COOK FISH

Fish can be cooked many different ways. You can roast fish with some oil and spices, batter and fry, wrap in parchment and steam, chop and form into burgers or add to stews. Fish is one of the most versatile, good-for-you proteins around. TIPS ON RAW FISH

Purchase sushi-grade fish that has been previously frozen. Freezing sushi grade fish is an FDA-approved guideline to kill bacteria. Keep fish as cold as possible and use it within 12-24 hours. Do a quick cure by rubbing some kosher salt and sugar over the fish for 30 minutes. Rinse it off before slicing and serving. www.fleishigs.com

WE SAMPLED KRUDO'S CURRY LIME MAYO, WHICH INSPIRED US TO MAKE OUR OWN VERSION FOR POKE BOWLS.

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Cajun Chilean Sea Bass Serves: 4

By: Shifra Klein

Sea bass requires nothing more than a few simple ingredients to allow its delicate flavor to shine. 4 2 2 2

(6-ounce) filets Chilean sea bass tablespoons olive oil tablespoons Cajun seasoning lemons, thinly sliced

1. Preheat oven to 425Â°F and place fish filets on a greased baking sheet or 9x13-inch pan. 2. Drizzle olive oil and Cajun seasoning on both sides and arrange lemon slices around fish. 3. Roast for 15 minutes. Serve with roasted lemon slices.

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Tofu and Tuna Poke Bowls Serves: 4-6

Poke is native to Hawaiian cuisine and is made with extremely fresh fish that is lightly seasoned. It makes for a delicious and quick meal when served over rice or zucchini noodles and various fresh accompaniments. The hot, crispy tofu is the perfect textural contrast to the tuna. The great thing about a poke bowl is that you can mix up the accompaniments based on your preferences. If you are a tofu skeptic, try this oven-baked method from our editor Elisheva — the results were extremely crispy and even our meat enthusiasts loved it! ½ ¼ 2

2 1 ¼ 2 2-3

2 1½ 2 2

pound sushi-grade tuna, cubed cup teriyaki sauce tablespoons toasted sesame oil, divided tablespoon toasted sesame seeds, plus more for garnish teaspoons Sriracha (14-ounce) package extra firm tofu cup cornstarch teaspoons kosher salt, divided cups cooked sushi rice (cooked according to package instructions) zucchini, spiralized cups shelled edamame avocados, cubed mangos, cubed or julienned Curry-Lime Mayo (recipe follows)

1. Toss tuna with teriyaki sauce, 1 tablespoon sesame oil, sesame seeds and Sriracha; toss to coat. 2. Set aside to marinate for 30 minutes or up to 4 hours before serving. 3. Preheat oven to 475°F and place a metal baking sheet inside oven. 4. Drain tofu and pat dry with paper towels. If desired, weigh

BEEF OF THE SEA

1½ 1 3 2 2 2

½ 1

pounds skinned salmon egg, beaten tablespoons panko breadcrumbs tablespoons mayonnaise tablespoons Sriracha tablespoons teriyaki sauce bunch scallions, white and pale green parts only, minced teaspoon kosher salt tablespoon oil Curry-Lime Mayo (recipe follows) Accompaniments such as avocado, radishes, pickles, lettuce and buns

1. Pulse salmon in food processor until roughly chopped. Do not overmix. 2. Transfer salmon to a bowl and add beaten egg, panko, mayonnaise, Sriracha, teriyaki, scallions and salt; mix until combined. 3. Form 4 large patties or 6 smaller ones. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet and refrigerate for up to 1 hour or freeze for 20 minutes, just until firm and set. 4. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Sear for 5-6 minutes on one side, then flip and sear for 2 minutes on the other side. 5. Serve with Curry-Lime Mayo and accompaniments of choice. down and set aside for 30 minutes; drain and pat dry again. 5. Cut into cubes and pat with paper towels once more. Lightly toss with cornstarch and 1 teaspoon salt. 6. Carefully remove baking sheet from oven and drizzle remaining tablespoon sesame oil directly onto the pan. Add tofu in a single layer. 7. Return pan to oven and cook until golden and crispy, about 20-25 minutes. 8. Sprinkle with remaining teaspoon salt while still hot. 9. Arrange tuna and tofu on a

platter or in individual bowls atop sushi rice and/or spiralized zucchini; serve with edamame, avocado, mango and CurryLime Mayo.

Salmon Burgers Serves: 4-6

This recipe is inspired by the salmon burgers we had for lunch while visiting Krudo. They had just been placed in the showcase and looked vibrant and extremely fresh. Making salmon burgers from scratch, not from a can, is worth the added step — there’s simply no comparison.

Curry-Lime Mayo Yield: 1½ cups

This is the perfect all-purpose dip or spread and pairs with just about anything. It was inspired by the curry mayo in Krudo’s line of sauces. 1 1 1 1 1

cup mayonnaise clove garlic, minced tablespoon curry powder Zest and juice of 1 lime tablespoon honey tablespoon Sriracha, optional

Whisk all ingredients together until combined. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 week. JULY 2020

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SEASONAL

SMOKING FOOD, what some aficionados would call “real” barbecue, is far more art than science and quite different than simply throwing some meat on the grill. It is a labor of love, igniting passion in avid fans who can spend all day tending to the flames. While grilled food is cooked over high, direct heat, smoked food sits over indirect heat for hours. Wood smoke serves to both slow cook the meat or fish and infuse it with tremendous flavor. In last year’s summer issue, we featured a tutorial from kosher pitmaster Sruli Eidelman of Izzy’s Smokehouse, with all the ins and outs of smoking food at home. While his advice and techniques were invaluable, smoking at home remains a time-consuming and complex process that can be daunting to some or too ambitious for those unable to babysit their meat for extended periods of time. One afternoon this past Pesach, Shlomo added some wood chips to a charcoal grill and smoked a side of salmon on a cedar plank, seasoned simply with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. It was easily the best hot-smoked salmon we’ve had for a fraction of the usual cost. Once the wood was burning, I sought to take advantage and decided to smoke some flanken as well, only to realize that without the use of a digital thermometer to control the exact temperature, I would never be able to achieve the tender results I was looking for. Still hoping to harness some of that incredible flavor, I

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decided to treat the smoking phase as I would when searing a piece of meat; to create a deep, flavorful crust, without tenderizing the meat all the way through. I set the seasoned flanken on the still-smoking grill over indirect heat and just 30 minutes later, the exterior of the meat had achieved a deep, brown color and an incredibly smoky flavor. Inside, the meat needed considerably more time to soften, so I transferred it to a baking dish and covered it tightly, then cooked it in the oven for another 21/2 hours at 350°F. When I tasted the final product, I knew I had struck gold with my

half-smoked method. In just a fraction of the time it would normally take to fully smoke a piece of meat — and with significantly less work — we had achieved that distinctly smoky flavor (albeit more subtle) and succulent, tender meat. In fact, there was a unanimous preference for the more understated smoked effect; enough to be noticeable, yet not overpowering. Before long, we were applying the same technique to brisket and ribs. This half-smoked method is the ideal way for anyone to achieve smokehouse-style results at home without the time, skill and technique that real smoking entails. www.fleishigs.com

HOW TO SET UP A SMOKER

CHOOSE YOUR WOOD CHIPS

PREPARE YOUR GRILL FOR INDIRECT HEAT

Different trees will impart distinct flavors to your meat; hickory has a stronger flavor, while apple is more subtle. Based on what we learned in last year’s smoking issue, we chose to combine wood chips from a fruit tree with some from a natural wood tree to balance out the flavors. Be sure to soak wood chips for at least 30 minutes.

If using a gas grill, turn the burners on only one side of the grill to 400°F. If using charcoal, get the charcoal burning until it is very hot, then move it to one side of the grill.

3 ADD THE WOOD CHIPS If using a gas grill, place them inside a wood chip box or wrap them in foil and poke some holes to allow the smoke to escape. If using charcoal, place the wood chips directly on the charcoal. Let sit for about 15 minutes, until wood chips begin to smoke.

SMOKE THE MEAT

FINISH IN THE OVEN

GLAZE

Season ribs or brisket generously and place over indirect heat. Cover grill and cook for 30 minutes.

Transfer meat to a baking dish, cover tightly and cook for another 2½-3 hours at 350°F.

For a perfect finish, glaze the fully-cooked meat with barbecue sauce and broil or grill over direct heat.

Note: Fish and quickcooking tender cuts of meat (like steak) can be smoked entirely in 30 minutes, without needing additional time in the oven to soften. Chicken and tougher cuts of meat will need 1-3 hours (depending on the cut) on low heat for optimal results.

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Cedar Plank Hot-Smoked Salmon Serves: 8

This is the ultimate party feast dish. It makes for a dramatic presentation and you can do so much with it. Serve as is or create a salmon board or salad. If you have leftovers, combine with some mayo and spread over a toasted bagel. Editor’s Note: A cedar plank must be soaked for at least 30 minutes before grilling to prevent it from burning. Submerge plank in a filled sink or large dish filled with water. It will float, so weigh down with a can or heavy jar. 1 2 2 ½

(3-pound) side salmon, skin-on tablespoons kosher salt tablespoons brown sugar teaspoon cayenne pepper or 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Prepare the grill for indirect heat cooking, as directed on page 49. Remember to place wood chips in the grill for 15 minutes before grilling. For a charcoal grill, simply place on top of charcoal. For a gas grill, place wood chips in a wood chip container or in a packet of foil, studded with holes, to release smoke. 2. Place salmon, skin-side down, on cedar plank. 3. Combine salt, brown sugar and pepper and rub all over salmon. 4. Place plank on the grill over indirect heat and cook for 30 minutes; serve hot or cold.

All-Purpose Spice Rub Yields: Heaping ½ cup

When smoking ribs or brisket, salt and pepper really does the job. That is the classic way most Texan pitmasters prepare their meat — it’s all about the meat and the smoke. However, if you are looking to add more flavor, you can rub the meat with our favorite all-purpose rub that can be used on roasted chicken as well. ¼ cup brown sugar 1 tablespoon smoked paprika 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon coriander 2 teaspoons garlic powder 2 teaspoons onion powder 2 teaspoons dried mustard powder 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper Combine all ingredients together and store in an airtight container in the pantry for up to 3-6 months. 50

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SEASONAL

Smoked Beets Serves: 4

Smoked vegetables are underrated and the flavor on beets is unparalleled. If you prefer a more subtle smoky flavor, parcook the beets in a 400°F oven, then transfer to a smoker for 20-30 minutes to finish cooking. 4 ¼ 4

large beets cup oil teaspoons kosher salt Chimichurri, for serving (recipe follows)

1. Prepare 4 large squares of foil and place each beet onto a square of foil. 2. Drizzle 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 teaspoon kosher salt over each beet. 3. Wrap well and place on a prepared smoker. Cook for 1 hour. Preheat oven to 400°F and transfer beets to oven. Cook for an additional 30 minutes. 4. Let cool slightly, then peel and slice into rounds. Serve with chimichurri.

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Chimichurri Yields: ¾ cup

1 1 3 ½ ½ ¼ 2

shallot, finely diced Fresno chile, finely diced cloves garlic, minced cup extra-virgin olive oil cup finely chopped fresh cilantro cup finely chopped fresh parsley tablespoons finely chopped fresh oregano or 1 teaspoon dried oregano tablespoons red wine vinegar teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

2 1 Combine all ingredients. Season with more salt to taste.

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Smoked Chicken Wings

Smoked Chicken

Serves: 4

2 ⅓ 1 ½

1 ¼

pounds chicken wings cup All-Purpose Spice Rub (page 50) cup barbecue sauce, optional cup store-bought horseradish mayonnaise, for serving cup chopped chives, for serving

1. Rub wings with All-Purpose Spice Rub. 2. Prepare the grill for indirect heat cooking, as directed on page 49. Remember to place wood chips in the grill for 15 minutes before grilling. For a charcoal grill, simply place on top of charcoal. For a gas grill, place wood chips in a wood chip container or in a packet of foil, studded with holes, to release smoke.

chicken, cut into eighths cup All-Purpose Spice Rub (page 50) Barbecue sauce, optional

1. Prepare the grill for indirect heat cooking, as directed on page 49. Remember to place wood chips in the grill for 15 minutes before grilling. For a charcoal grill, simply place on top of charcoal. For a gas grill, place wood chips in a wood chip container or in a packet of foil, studded with holes, to release smoke. 2. Rub chicken with spice rub and place on grill over indirect heat. Cover and cook for 15-20 minutes. 3. Preheat oven to 350°F and place chicken in a 9x13-inch baking dish. Cover and cook for 1 hour. Uncover and glaze with barbecue sauce, if desired.

3. Place wings on grill over indirect heat. Cover and cook for 30 minutes, flipping once halfway through. 4. If desired, glaze with barbecue sauce and cook for an additional few minutes, until glaze is sticky. 5. For a quick serving dip, top horseradish mayo with chopped chives.

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Shortcut Smoked Brisket Serves: 6

In place of simple salt and pepper, you can use the All-Purpose Rub on page 50. You can also follow this technique for first cut brisket, but expect leaner slices of meat. 1 1 1 ½

Fleishigs

(4-pound) second cut brisket tablespoon kosher salt tablespoon freshly ground black pepper cup barbecue sauce, optional

JULY 2020

1. Prepare the grill for indirect heat cooking, as directed on page 49. Remember to place wood chips on the grill for 15 minutes before grilling. For a charcoal grill, simply place on top of charcoal. For a gas grill, place wood chips in a wood chip container or in a packet of foil, studded with holes, to release smoke. 2. Rub meat with salt and pepper and place on grill over indirect heat. Cover and cook for 40 minutes. 3. Preheat oven to 350°F. Remove brisket from grill and place in a 9x13-inch baking dish. 4. Cover tightly with foil and place in the oven for 2½ hours. If glazing with barbecue sauce, turn oven up to 500°F, brush sauce all over brisket and cook, uncovered, for an additional 5 minutes per side.

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BACK POCKET

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SUFFERIN' SUCCOTASH

Corn and Beef Fry Succotash

1 4

Serves: 8

This Southern classic is elevated with corn prepared in a variety of ways — grilled, raw and sautéed — so you enjoy corn in all its glory.

Note: This succotash can be made ahead of time, just add diced beef fry right before serving.

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3 ½ 2 2 2

(6-ounce) package beef fry ears raw corn, kernels stripped off cobs, divided ears grilled corn, kernels stripped off cobs pound blanched lima beans or sweet peas plum tomatoes, finely diced cup pickled red onions, finely diced (recipe follows) tablespoons fresh tarragon, minced tablespoons red wine vinegar tablespoons olive oil Kosher salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Place beef fry in a large sauté pan over medium heat and fry until crispy. Remove from pan and set aside to cool, reserving rendered fat. 2. Return pan to medium-high heat and add half of the raw corn kernels. Sauté for 5 minutes. 3. Combine sautéed corn, grilled corn, remaining raw corn, lima beans, tomatoes, pickled red onions, tarragon, red wine vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper. 4. Finely dice beef fry and toss into succotash; serve warm or at room temperature.

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BEEF FRY CORNBREAD

Pickled Red Onions 1¼ 1 ¼ 1½ 1

cups white vinegar cup water cup sugar tablespoons salt red onion, sliced

1. Add vinegar, water, sugar and salt to a saucepan. 2. Bring to a boil and stir until sugar and salt dissolve. 3. Pour over onions. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

Candied Bourbon Beef Fry Yields: 1 cup

This candied bacon works wonders in savory applications, but was also a delicious topping for the corn ice cream. 2 ⅔ 2

(6-ounce) packages beef fry cup packed light brown sugar tablespoons bourbon Pinch of freshly ground black pepper Pinch of smoked paprika or cayenne pepper, optional

1. Preheat oven to 325°F and lay beef fry on a wire rack fitted atop a baking sheet. 2. Combine brown sugar, bourbon, black pepper and paprika or cayenne, if using. Cook for 10 minutes, then flip and cook for an additional 8-10 minutes. Flip one more time and cook for another 3-5 minutes. 3. Let cool before crumbling to use on ice cream or salad.

Beef Fry Cornbread Serves: 6

This one-bowl cornbread is the perfect accompaniment to a summer BBQ. To double the recipe for a crowd, just use a 9x13-inch baking dish.

1 1 ⅔ 1 1 ⅓ 1 1 1

cup all-purpose flour cup cornmeal cup sugar tablespoon + ½ teaspoon baking powder teaspoon kosher salt cup oil cup non-dairy milk large egg (6-ounce) package beef fry, cooked according to directions in succotash recipe (page 58) ears corn, kernels stripped off cobs

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. 2. Combine flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder and salt. 3. Make a well in the center and add oil, milk and egg. Whisk until a smooth batter forms. 4. Stir in chopped beef fry and corn kernels. 5. Pour batter into a 9-inch square baking pan and bake for 20-25 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

Corn Ice Cream Yields: 1½ pints

Corn in ice cream is definitely an adventurous combination of flavors. To take it up a notch, you can pair it with beef fry, either stirred into the ice cream after churning or as an unexpected topping. Notes: • It’s important to temper the eggs gradually (step 5) so as not to scramble them when adding into the hot purée. • While frozen or canned corn are good alternatives to fresh in some recipes, using fresh corn is key in this ice cream. So much creaminess lies in the cobs themselves that can’t be achieved from anything else.

• Make sure to freeze your ice cream bowl 16-24 hours in advance. The ice cream mixture has to be very cold as well before churning, so keep these tips in mind when planning the recipe.

4 2 1½ ¾ ¾ 6 1 1 1

ears corn cups full-fat coconut milk cups almond milk, divided cup + 2 tablespoons sugar teaspoon salt egg yolks, beaten tablespoon apple cider vinegar teaspoon vanilla extract (6-ounce) package beef fry, cooked according to directions in succotash recipe (page 58), optional

1. Strip kernels off cobs and place in a saucepan together with cobs. 2. Add coconut milk, 1 cup almond milk, sugar and salt; bring to a boil. 3. Lower heat, cover pan and simmer for 1 hour. 4. Discard cobs, then purée milk and corn mixture. Strain mixture back into pot by pouring through a fine mesh sieve and continuously stirring with a spatula or spoon to squeeze out as much liquid as possible. 5. While whisking egg yolks in a bowl, slowly add in a ladleful of corn purée, then add egg yolk mixture into the saucepan. 6. Simmer until the mixture coats the back of a spoon. Remove from heat. 7. Add in remaining ½ cup almond milk, apple cider vinegar and vanilla extract. Let stand until mixture reaches room temperature, about 15 minutes, then refrigerate at least 1 hour, until very cold. 8. Once chilled, churn according to ice cream manufacturer’s instructions. 9. Chop up beef fry, if using, and stir into ice cream. 10. Freeze ice cream in a container for at least 2 hours, until hardened.

With limited dining options available in the current climate, we predict that the popularity of private chefs will grow. A private chef can create a five-star meal in the comfort of one’s own home, providing a gourmet experience that was once exclusive to restaurant dining. Chef Hudi is a private chef who has seen a spark in interest and demand for home-catered events. He shares some dishes inspired by the season.

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ICE CREAM, YOUâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;LL ACTUALLY SCREAM.

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How did your career in cooking begin? I always loved cooking as a kid. I got my first job cooking at age 16 at a local deli counter in Montreal, where I grew up. I’ve been cooking ever since (18 years now!).

What has been your favorite experience over the years? When I was in Israel in 2012, I cooked on an Arab settlement. Every morning at 4 AM we would head out and prep pastry. I would be putting on tefillin at 5 AM as the speakers were blaring with Arab morning prayer.

What are some of your favorite ingredients? I love anything fennel-flavored — fennel, fennel seed, star anise. I really love black licorice too!

Any cooking rules to live by? Be prepared. Clean as you go. Better to have something simple and good than fancy but not great. And finally — taste, taste, taste.

What are you up to now? It’s hard to say with all that is going on now, but I am still available for private catering and my charcuterie is for sale in the tristate area as well.

Chef Hudi Riven was trained in French technique and pastry at the St. Pius Culinary Institute in Montreal. He currently works as a private chef based out of Brooklyn, NY and has worked across the globe since the age of 16 for prestigious restaurants, caterers, bakeries and pastry shops. He has held roles as sous chef, chef de cuisine and executive chef and worked as sous chef at the renowned restaurant Pardes in Brooklyn, NY. Hudi started Riven Gourmet to bring a fine dining experience to the comfort of one’s home or vacation getaway. Each experience is unique, tailored to each customer’s specific needs. Hudi can be reached on Instagram @riven_gourmet or through his website rivengourmet.com.

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BREAKFAST BBQ

BBQ BREAKFAST FOR DINNER BY: SHIFRA KLEIN

There is something so satisfying about traditional breakfast fare, like eggs, toasted bread and fresh vegetables. In many countries around the world, substantial breakfasts are the norm, as opposed to large dinners, which are more common in America. We wanted to showcase some really phenomenal grilled dinner options, inspired by Israeli and South African breakfasts, to redefine what a summer grill experience can truly be.

South African Grill Serves: 4

A huge part of South African culture is visiting wildlife parks. These visits require driving around game reserves for hours on end without stopping for food or drink. It’s common to grill up a feast of sausages, eggs, grilled tomatoes and beans before heading out for the day and then bring along food that doesn’t require refrigeration, like biltong, South Africa’s version of jerky with a unique coriander-pepper rub. Inspired by this entire experience, we created a biltong-style rub that works wonderfully on any protein. 1 2 2 4 1

(12-ounce) package sausages of choice pounds steak (such as rib steak, Denver steak or London Broil) tablespoons oil Biltong Rub (recipe follows) Vine tomatoes sunny side up eggs, for serving (8-ounce) can baked beans, for serving Chutney, such as Mrs. Ball’s brand, for serving

1. Preheat grill to high. 2. Grill sausages for 5 minutes. 3. Rub steak with oil and biltong rub on both sides. Grill for 6 minutes per side. Set aside to rest. 4. As meat is cooking, grill tomatoes until skin starts to burst, 5 minutes. 5. Serve with sunny side up eggs, baked beans and chutney. Note: To make sunny side up eggs on the grill, place a cast iron skillet on a hot grill and drizzle oil into the skillet. Crack eggs into pan, cover grill and cook until eggs are set to your liking, about 5 minutes for runny eggs.

South African Biltong Rub Yields: ¼ cup

This recipe yields enough for the steak above, but feel free to double or triple the recipe to use on anything.

2 2 2 2

tablespoons coriander tablespoons freshly ground black pepper teaspoons brown sugar teaspoons kosher salt

Combine all ingredients together and store in an airtight container in the pantry for up to 3-6 months.

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BREAKFAST BBQ

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BREAKFAST BBQ

Shakshuka Serves: 3-6

This classic dish has had its moment to shine in recent years and for good reason. It is savory, satisfying, nutritious and really simple to pull together. Cooking shakshuka on a grill is a fun way to update the classic. Serve with freshly grilled pitas and smoked eggplant for a true feast. 2 1 3 1 1 1 2 2 1 ½ 1 ¼ 6 ½ ¼

tablespoons oil onion, diced cloves garlic, minced jalapeño, finely diced tablespoon shawarma spice blend tablespoon turmeric teaspoons cumin teaspoons coriander teaspoon sugar teaspoon cinnamon (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes cup tomato paste large eggs cup chopped parsley cup chopped dill Homemade grilled pita, for serving (recipe follows) Grilled eggplant, for serving (recipe follows)

1. Place cast iron skillet on grill over medium-high heat. 2. Add oil and onions; cover grill for 5 minutes. 3. Add garlic and jalapeños and sauté for 3 minutes. 4. Add spices, tomatoes and tomato paste. Stir until fully incorporated. Cover grill and cook until sauce is bubbly, about 10 minutes. 5. Create six wells in the sauce and crack an egg into each well. Cover grill and cook until eggs are set, about 5 minutes. 6. Top with chopped herbs and serve with grilled pita and eggplant, if desired.

Whole Grilled Eggplant: Place whole eggplant on a grill heated on high. Grill until tender, about 10 minutes per side, depending on size. You will know it is ready when the flesh is tender.

Homemade Grilled Pita Bread: Combine 3 cups flour, 2¼ teaspoons instant yeast, 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 tablespoon kosher salt, 1½ cups water and a drizzle of olive oil. Mix until smooth. Place in an oiled bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let rise until doubled in size. Separate into 8 equal portions and roll into balls. Place on a floured surface or baking sheet and cover with a kitchen towel to rise for another 15 minutes. Flatten balls into 6-inch circles and place on a preheated grill. Cook for 4 minutes on one side, then flip and cook for 3 minutes on the other side.

Grilled Sabich Platter Serves: 8

Sabich, the classic Israeli street food sandwich, which consists of fried eggplant, hard boiled eggs, potatoes and Israeli salad, gets an elegant — and grilled — family-style upgrade. 1 eggplant 1 teaspoon kosher salt 16 mini Yukon Gold potatoes, halved 4 pitas, halved ⅓ cup olive oil 8 large eggs 1 cup prepared tahini ¼ cup amba sauce Pickled onions, sliced cucumbers, sliced tomatoes and fresh mint, for serving 1. Slice eggplant into ½-inch rounds, arrange on a kitchen towel and sprinkle with salt. Let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes, then pat dry. 2. Heat grill to medium-high heat and brush eggplant, potatoes and pitas with oil. 3. Grill potatoes, cut-side down, for 15-20 minutes, until fork tender. 4. Grill eggplant for 5 minutes per side. 5. Place whole eggs directly on grill and cook (covered) for about 7-10 minutes. 6. Grill pitas until just heated through. 7. Peel and halve the eggs. Arrange eggplant, pitas and eggs on a serving platter with tahini, amba and vegetables of choice. JULY 2020

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BY: DANIELLE RENOV

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always been impressed with Fleishigs Magazineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s devotion to pushing the boundaries of kosher cuisine and educating its readers on diverse cultures and cuisines. While my upcoming cookbook, Peas Love & Carrots: The Cookbook, consists of mostly mainstream cuisine, the rich Moroccan heritage passed down from my mother and grandmother is sprinkled throughout the book.

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DANIELLE RENOV I GREW UP IN a very eclectic household: My father is Ashkenaz, born and raised in New York, and my mother is Sephardic, born in Morocco and raised in Paris. Our house was very food-centric, with my mother at the helm of the kitchen, largely influenced by Sephardic and Moroccan cuisines. My maternal grandmother was a widow for most of her adult life and spent months visiting each of her children, so I have very fond memories of her sitting at the head of our kitchen peninsula rolling hundreds of Moroccan cigars. Yes, every Moroccan says their grandmother’s cigars are the best, but hers truly were. She ground her own meat and obviously made her own dough. Her secret was adding liver to the chopped meat, cooking it, then grinding the mixture again to make a spicy, creamy paste. To date, I have never had a cigar as delicious as hers. Needless to say, we always ate extremely well. THE TRADITIONS RAN deep in our home. At least three times a month we dined on homemade pastilla for dinner. Sunday nights we had fifle tomatese, made with leftover chicken, tomato sauce and warm spices. I was never really exposed to traditional Ashkenaz foods, but my mother did adapt these foods and made them her own (i.e. yapchik, schnitzel and potato kugel). She was cognizant of the fact that we were in a largely Ashkenaz community and worked hard to “perfect” these foods for when our friends came over.

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MOROCCAN PANTRY

I NEVER KNEW anyone else my age with an immigrant parent, so while other kids were baking chocolate chip cookies, I was (happily) being sent to the backyard to pick mint for Moroccan tea (an entire tradition in itself ) and rolling moufleta with two generations of women before me.

BRAISED CHICKEN AND CELERY

(Moroccan fried dough) is by far my favorite of all the Moroccan delicacies I grew up with. Though it’s extremely time consuming to make — stretching and rolling each layer of dough to be paper thin, layering with butter and frying — the results are unlike anything else. Moufleta is traditionally served at mimouna (a post-Pesach Moroccan celebration, one my mother hosted for hundreds of guests every year with all the traditional bells and whistles), but my grandmother would make it any time I asked, no matter how many hours it would take her.

Danielle’s Pro Tip: Peeling celery may be an extra step, but removing the outer fibers makes all the difference in the texture.

MOUFLETA

MOROCCAN CUISINE can feel extremely daunting and overwhelming, with all the spices and the sheer number of ingredients and steps. Moroccans cook with technique without even knowing they’re using proper technique! My followers Yes, every know that one of my family’s favorite dips is Moroccan salade cuite, which is says their composed of only four grandmother’s simple ingredients: cigars are the tomatoes, bell peppers, jalapeños and garlic, but best, but hers the process is anything truly were. but simple. It takes a good 10 hours and countless techniques to yield the best, most authentic salade cuite. What makes Moroccan food so good is that the women truly take the time to respect the cooking process, giving it the attention it deserves. After all, they learned from the best, who learned from the best... In that light, I wanted to write a companion to my book that would serve as a tour, of sorts, into what a typical Moroccan (albeit slightly modernized) pantry looks like. So buckle up and let’s head to Morocco!

Serves: 6

By: Danielle Renov

Humble ingredients such as chicken and celery are elevated to create a sophisticated stew. Coating the chicken in potato starch before searing helps achieve a rich gravy that takes this dish over the top. It’s amazing served with couscous or mashed potatoes.

4 1 ½ 2 1 ¼ 1 6-8 3 1 1 1½ 1

bone-in chicken breasts, halved (the butcher can do this for you) tablespoon kosher salt tablespoon freshly ground black pepper cups potato starch teaspoon paprika cup olive oil onion, diced celery ribs (reserve leaves), peeled, halved lengthwise and cut into 2-inch pieces cloves garlic, halved tablespoon tomato paste cup dry white wine Juice of ½ lemon cups chicken broth cup fresh cilantro leaves

1. Preheat tagine or large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. 2. Pat chicken dry and season on both sides with salt and pepper. 3. In a shallow dish, combine potato starch and paprika. 4. Dredge seasoned chicken pieces in potato starch mixture, shaking off any excess. 5. Add oil to pot. Working in batches so as not to overcrowd the pan, sear chicken, skin-side down, for 6 minutes, then flip and cook for another 5 minutes, until the chicken has a deep, caramel-colored crust. Once both sides are seared, set aside and repeat with remaining chicken. 6. Once all the chicken has been browned, add onion and celery to the pot. 7. Sauté, stirring often, for about 8 minutes, until softened. 8. Add garlic and tomato paste and stir constantly for 2 minutes. 9. Using a wooden spoon, scrape the bottom of the pan while pouring in the wine, making sure that all the bits of flavor that are stuck to the bottom are incorporated into the sauce. 10. Add lemon juice and chicken stock. Stir and bring to a boil. 11. Nestle chicken into the pot and gently spoon some sauce over the chicken. 12. Add cilantro and reserved celery leaves. 13. Cover, reduce heat and simmer for 1½-2 hours, until chicken is tender and falling off the bone. If making in a tagine, cover the tagine and place in a 250°F oven for 2 hours. 14. Serve over fresh couscous with a huge dollop of schug. JULY 2020

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MOROCCAN PANTRY

SPICES Anise seeds Bay leaves Cardamom (pods or ground) Cloves Coarse black pepper Cumin Dried chiles (not technically a spice, but can be found in spice shops) Kosher salt

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Paprika in oil Granulated garlic (I don’t think my grandmother ever stocked granulated garlic or onion in her pantry, but I do) Granulated onion Ground cinnamon Ground coriander Ground ginger Ras el hanout (a traditional Moroccan spice blend that can be found in most spice shops)

Saffron (preferably the Spanish variety — whole, never ground) Turmeric Whole nutmeg

HERBS Cilantro Mint Parsley Tarragon

DRY GOODS Dates Dried apricots Dried chickpeas (the smaller, the better) Dried lentils Extra-virgin olive oil Fava beans Fine semolina (or pre-made

couscous if you don’t plan on making it from scratch)

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MOROCCAN PANTRY

NOTE This list is not completely comprehensive (there are more ingredients, but thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s for a different article). These are just the Flour Green tea leaves (gunpowder variety, if you can find it)

Honey Orange blossom water Prunes Potato starch Shelled pistachios Tomato paste White vinegar Whole raw almonds

PERISHABLES Artichoke hearts (frozen is fine) Beets (including the greens) Bell peppers (red and green) Carrots Celery (including the leaves) Eggplant Garlic Harissa* Lemons

Olives (black and green) Onions Oranges Peas Potatoes Preserved lemons* Quince Schug Spicy peppers Tomatoes Zucchini

ones I believe you need to have in order to make most Moroccan recipes, should the mood for good Moroccan food strike.

*In my book, I have easy recipes for preserved lemons and harissa, which can both last in your fridge for a year! With homemade harissa, you can control the spice level, unlike store-bought.

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BY: LEVANA KIRSCHENBAUM

What exactly is a tagine? Is it a specific pot? A method? A philosophy of cooking? The short answer is — all of the above. THE PRIMARY MEANING of tagine refers to the utensil used — a wide, shallow, round clay pot with a conical top, ideally conceived to cook on top of a low-slung tripod clay oven. Its walls and pointed roof retain all the heat built up during the cooking process. By extension, a tagine is the dish we cook in that utensil. A tagine has come to mean cooking on a stovetop, in liquid, at a medium-heat pace. In this way of cooking, the Western time-honored concept of “protein here, starch there, vegetables over there” goes out the window. The results are precisely what make tagine cooking so immensely appealing to all of us — all the elements of the dish cook in unison, keeping in mind each ingredient’s respective cooking time. What you end up with is a dish with a thick sauce that natives and expats alike love to mop up with a hunk of flat, crusty bread (called khobz). Side dish? Never heard of it! When we were small, my mother would take a serving of tagine and grind it in her La Moulinette, a handcranked gizmo she couldn’t live without (of course I have one too!), then she poured the contents into a baby bottle fitted with a large-hole nipple; toddlers would delightedly drink their tagine dinner and always begged for more.

all the elements of the dish cook in unison

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TAGINE

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TAGINE

TAGINE CAN BE made using any ingredients you like, just as long as you keep the selection short and sweet. In fact, I have a huge chapter on simple tagines in my book, My Whole Foods Kosher Kitchen and many recipes on my website. There you can find dozens of tagines made with just two ingredients! I WOULD ROUGHLY divide the flavor groupings into two camps: the lemon, olive, ginger trio and the warm spices, honey, dried fruit trio. Again, this sorting is very elastic. In the former group, I might make a fish tagine (but any protein will do) with preserved lemons, olives, tomatoes, baby potatoes, paprika and good pinch of red pepper flakes; in the latter group, I might make a chicken tagine (again, any protein will do) with ras el hanout (a wonderful Moroccan blend of warm spices like cumin, ginger, cinnamon, coriander, cayenne and allspice), dried fruit and toasted almonds. Virtually all Moroccan dishes include turmeric, the wondrous yellow root we grew up with long before it became the antioxidant rage. Finally, saffron — the spice infamous for being as expensive and as precious as gold; the good news is, a little goes a long way. No matter what, I get fabulous results each time and my family and friends always clamor for a tagine-centered dinner.

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Tagine Cookware

any think that in order to create a traditional Moroccan tagine, special cookware is needed. I see many tagine pots on the market that are heavily glazed, positioning them more on the decorative side than on the functional side, with a coating that might take away from the porousness that makes clay such a terrific heat conductor. A traditional tagine can also crack if exposed to excessive heat and needs to be seasoned the way you would cast iron cookware. In other words, these are high maintenance pieces. So my solution to tagine cooking has always been to pick a heavy, stainless steel, shallow-ish (4to 5-inches deep) pot with a broad bottom, as opposed to a narrow and tall one, to emulate a classic tagine pot. This solution may be less “romantic,” but it is thoroughly reliable and guaranteed.

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TAGINE

Moroccan Lamb and Dried Fruit Tagine Recipe adapted from: Levana Kirschenbaum www.levanacooks.com Serves: 8

Heat ¼ cup olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add 4 pounds lamb shanks or cubed lamb stew meat and sear until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. Add 2 thinly sliced onions and sauté until deeply golden, about 10 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons sugar, ½ teaspoon saffron threads, 1 teaspoon turmeric, 1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger, 3 cinnamon sticks, 2 teaspoons kosher salt, 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and 1 tablespoon cinnamon. Sauté for another 2 minutes, until spices become fragrant. Return meat to pot and add in 1½ cups pitted prunes and 1½ cups dried apricots. Fill pot halfway with water, cover and cook over low heat for 2 hours, until meat is tender. Serve on a platter garnished with 1 cup toasted slivered almonds.

Moroccan Lemon and Chicken Tagine Recipe adapted from: Levana Kirschenbaum www.levanacooks.com Serves: 8

To a heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven, add 8 skin-on chicken parts, 2 thinly sliced onions, 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger, 1 cup rinsed pitted green olives, 2 teaspoons turmeric, 2 pinches saffron, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, 2 cups water and the peel from ½ of a preserved lemon, rinsed and finely chopped. Cover and bring to a boil, then reduce heat to medium-high and cook for 1 hour, adding more liquid halfway through if needed. Finely mince 1 cup fresh parsley and 5-6 sprigs fresh cilantro. Add to pot

with the juice of 2 lemons. Season with freshly ground black pepper to taste. Stir and cook for another 10 minutes. Transfer chicken to a platter. If sauce is too thin, reduce over high heat until it thickens. Garnish with more parsley, cilantro and sliced lemon.

Chickpea and Tomato Tagine Recipe adapted from: Levana Kirschenbaum www.levanacooks.com Serves: 8

Inspired by the collection of tagine recipes on www.levanacooks. com, I was determined to make a vegetarian version with chickpeas. I came across Levana’s Chickpea Tagine with Dates and Swiss Chard. We didn’t have Swiss chard or enough dates for the recipe, so we opened the pantry and decided to make it tomato based. While we definitely veered from the original recipe, the results were amazing and it was really evident how versatile and flexible tagine cooking can be. -Shifra Klein

Heat ¼ cup olive oil in a heavybottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Finely dice 1 large onion. Sauté, stirring frequently, until golden, about 10 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger, 1 cup fresh parsley and 1 cup fresh cilantro and cook for 2 minutes. Add ½ teaspoon cinnamon and 2 teaspoons turmeric and sauté for 2-3 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons tomato paste, 2 (15-ounce) cans rinsed and drained chickpeas, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 1 cup water. Cover pot, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 45 minutes. Add additional kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Transfer to a serving platter and garnish with ½ cup toasted slivered almonds.

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f i r e d n o W I s o c a T my k n i h t ever ! o o t e m t u abo

r cipe fo Easy ReBeef Tacos d e Pull Back on thery Pack ! of Eve

Naturally Gluten Free

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Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t you just Louvre a good food tour? By: Shifra Klein

as told to Chana Zelda Weiss

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the longawaited privilege of going on a quick getaway. Shlomo’s 40th birthday was approaching in March, and after taking a quick look through our jam-packed calendar, I realized the only time we’d be able to carve out for a trip would be in January. So I got to work researching flights, hotels and destinations for what turned out to be a three-day trip to Paris, followed by a bonus Shabbos in Israel before returning home. As I planned the trip, I wondered if Paris, so highly romanticized, could really live up to its hype. With a quick search in Kayak’s multi-city trip option, I realized that with a little time and imagination, you can book amazing multidestination vacations, without spending any more than you would have on a direct flight. I found a flight that would take us direct to Paris from New York with a stopover in Israel on the way home for under $1,000 per ticket. I knew that even if Paris wouldn’t live up to our expectations, the Israel

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extension of our trip would ensure we maximized our mini vacation. As soon as we arrived, I knew that Paris would be everything I had hoped for. Tourists and locals were sitting outside sipping cups of espresso and tasting the most magnificent-looking pastries. The relaxed atmosphere holds a certain charm, perfect for a laid-back couples trip. (If you plan to come with young children, keep in mind that many of the local options revolve around the rich culture of historical sites, museums and food. Disneyland, located just outside Paris, can be a great family-oriented, albeit less Parisian, trip to consider.) While many European cities may have limited kosher food options, Paris is chock-full of restaurants, from casual options like sushi, deli, takeout, pizza and bakeries to upscale eateries for an elegant evening out. Chef Avner Guzman, a Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef who has worked and consulted in many local restaurants, led us on the ultimate food tour. Traipsing around Paris with a real local was the ultimate foodie experience, giving us a sampling of

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many places we may not have known about otherwise. (Reach out to Avner @guzmannerwin to book a personal tour.) In contrast to the rushed, intense atmosphere you often see at U.S. restaurants, where waiters are known to hover nearby and whisk your plates away the moment the last forkful disappears, restaurant dining in Paris is a slow, laid-back experience. No one is rushing anywhere. Diners relax over long, lazy lunches, then sip espresso and talk way past dessert. We found this unhurried atmosphere to be a welcomed and inspiring change of pace.

Aside from a handful of delis, most restaurants in Paris are closed in the afternoon from 2:30 to 7 or even 7:30. This creates a perfect window of opportunity for touring and shopping. Dinner is generally a late-evening affair, so expect restaurants to be open until at least 10:30 or 11. Prices are comparable to dining out in the U.S.

CHEF AVNER GUZMAN can be reached on Instagram @nerwinguzman. You can book a unique tour or dining experience while visiting Paris by visiting www.kosherexperiences.com. Visit the site to learn about incredible kosher dining opportunities led by Chef Guzman.

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hotels.) As long as you choose a hotel or Airbnb in close walking distance to the train, transportation between different neighborhoods, attractions and restaurants will be a breeze.

SHOPPING

GETTING AROUND The Paris city center is divided into 20 districts called arrondissements, each identified by number. Travel between the well-connected districts is made quick, easy and inexpensive via the accessible subway train, which is clean and feels safe, even at night. Once you’ve arrived at your destination area, Paris is a beautiful place to spend the day on foot. The picturesque streets are made for walking for the ultimate immersive experience. Make sure to bring at least one phone to connect to Wi-Fi for easy access to Google Maps. If you prefer to travel by car, Uber is an easily accessible transportation option. There are also personal drivers available for hire (a great way to support local Jews) who can offer stops along your route, as well as provide invaluable advice and insider tips on where to go and when.

WHERE TO STAY As someone who had never visited Paris before, I spent hours combing through accommodation options, before narrowing the list down to a few hotels that I could book with the points balance on my credit card. If 86

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you’re going to spend much of the day out touring, spending less on lodging to free up more of your budget for dining and shopping may be a worthy trade-off. LOCATION OPTIONS 18th arrondissement: Known to be the most budget-friendly area 8th arrondissement: Near most of the shopping options 3rd and 4th arrondissement: The Marais area, offering lots of good food and nightlife 7th arrondissement: Closest to the Eiffel tower, with magnificent views

With a small stash of old SPGturned-Marriott points we wanted to use up, we booked the Renaissance Arc de Triomphe in the Champs-Élysées area of the 8th arrondissement, a more modern-style property with views of the Arc ( just a three-minute walk away) and just a short walk from the train station. For a more authentic and immersive vibe, consider choosing a classic French property, complete with all of the touches of historical French design. (Keep in mind that the rooms tend to be quite small in most Paris

Paris is known as one of the fashion capitals of the world, so it comes as no surprise that the city is filled with excellent high-end shopping centers and small boutiques. For an upscale mall filled with luxurious designer brands as well as some more affordable options, visit Les Galeries LaFayette. The Carrousel du Louvre, located right next to the world-famous Louvre, features fashion and accessory shops, as well as a cultural area where you can pick up replicas of the Louvre’s famous art pieces. Another area well known for its shops is Champs-Élysées, which is dedicated to luxury brands but includes more affordable stores as well. Designer purchases in France are eligible for a VAT tax refund, which can make shopping luxury brands cheaper than it would be in the U.S. There are also great sales during the winter season, which makes it a perfect opportunity to snag some good deals.

WEATHER In Paris, the summers are short and comfortable and the winters can be very cold and windy, with mild weather in the spring and fall. During our trip in January, it was quite cold and crisp, with average temperatures ranging from the low 30s to mid 40s (Fahrenheit).

SHABBOS Although we didn’t have the opportunity to stay in Paris for Shabbos (this time!), the local families are known to be very generous about hosting guests for Shabbos meals. For a nominal fee, Chabad of Paris also hosts beautiful and inclusive community meals for locals and tourists alike. (Visit chabadchampselysees.com to make a reservation.) If you prefer to make your own Shabbos meals, local delis are replete with delicious options for takeout. www.fleishigs.com

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DAY

On our first day in Paris, we came straight from the airport at 6 AM and embarked on a full day adventure with Chef Avner Guzman, our food tour guide for the day.

XXV

The cannelle, a lesser known French pastry, was a surprise favorite at XXV.

Interestingly enough, it isn’t easy to find a chalav yisrael croissant in Paris. This spot is one of the only centrally located cafés that sells this classic French treat. There are two locations, one of which is in walking distance to the Eiffel Tower with outdoor seating, a classic hallmark of French dining. XXV is a small café with a large variety of pastries, sandwiches, coffee and even sushi. Our surprise favorite was the cannelle, an underrated French pastry that we are obsessed with. These mini treats are easy to pop in your mouth and taste like a custardy, crunchy croissant-meets-pancake. The light and airy croissants at XXV were delicious as well. If you’re about to set off on a full day of touring, grab some sandwiches for a perfect on-the-go lunch.

King David For our next stop, we experienced our first French deli. Like many of the other local delis, King David offers a combination of Tunisian, North African, French and Israeli food, with a Shabbos takeout menu as well as a sit-down restaurant with an extensive charcuterie selection and 35 salads to choose from. We enjoyed a unique French/North African dish called pissaladière à la tomate, a pastry-like tart with caramelized onions in tomato sauce, topped with anchovies and olives, as well as fricassé, a savory fried dough filled with Tunisian-style tuna salad. We also tried a delicious braised choucroute with tender cabbage, potatoes and sausages, paired with a refreshing Riesling wine. JULY 2020

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Kavod Kavod is one of the only kosher restaurants in arrondissement 8 and probably the most famous kosher restaurant in Paris, where we tasted some delicious risotto balls and foie gras ravioli. Kavod is quite similar to many of the other kosher bistro-style restaurants, such as Bassar, L'atelier Déli, Kahn Famous Deli, La Fille du Boucher and Chez Franck, so map out your day and choose the restaurant most conveniently located for you.

Le Cordon Bleu Culinary School Most restaurants are closed from about 2:30-7:30, so we took a quick break from our food tour to drop off our bags at the hotel and then headed to Le Cordon Bleu, the most prestigious culinary school in the world. We may not have been able to taste any of the food, but it was fascinating to see the most prestigious professional cooking school in action. Chef Avner Guzman studied at Le Cordon Bleu early in his culinary career and was welcomed with open arms. The picturesque rooftop gardens feature dreamy views of the Seine River, the Statue of Liberty and the Eiffel Tower. We also spotted some nearby river cruises, which are a very popular way to see Paris.

these the perfect edible gifts to bring home to your family and friends, which we guarantee they will appreciate more than anything you might find in a souvenir shop.

L'atelier Déli To an American, the word “deli” conjures up the image of old-school pastrami on rye, but in France, a deli is nothing of the sort. This restaurant was an upscale steakhouse experience, located on the outskirts of Paris. We enjoyed an exquisite mushroom velouté topped with a poached egg (a version of which Chef Avner featured in the Pesach issue). L'atelier Déli has an extensive and unique wine selection as well, making it the perfect choice for wine aficionados.

Chez Franck For the ultimate French experience, visit the chef-run Chez Franck, with an authentic French menu and outdoor seating (during the warmer months). Choose classic options like steak frites and veal, or try something new with our absolute favorite dish: a showstopping foie gras platter, featuring amazing foie gras cooked five ways, including a terrine and brûlée. Feel free to linger over dessert — this restaurant is open until 11 PM.

Le Cordon Bleu students in action. Our unscheduled visit is not available to the public, but we were lucky enough to get a full tour with Chef Avner as our guide.

Damyel Chocolates Our next stop was this luxury chocolate boutique, which boasts locations throughout Paris, so you can conveniently plan a stop to fit in with your plans for the day. We visited one in 17th, as well as one in the Marais district (across from Korcarz and near L’As du Fallafel). Each location has a different ambiance, but the chocolates are the same; rich, creamy, dark chocolate truffles (nondairy) as well as beautiful French macarons. Elegant, luxurious packaging makes 88

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DaAAmn Damyel, what are thoooose?!

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Arc de Triomphe

The Louvre

We began our second day with a short walk to one of the most famous monuments in Paris, the Arc de Triomphe, which honors those who fought and died for France in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic wars. A walk up the Arc de Triomphe will give you an extraordinary bird’s eye view of many of the streets in Paris.

We couldn’t visit Paris without spending some time at the worldfamous Louvre. If you love art, you can spend an entire day here alone. The Louvre is so unique and much bigger than I would have ever thought. Hordes of tourists line up for a glimpse of the iconic Mona Lisa, but most of the other exhibits were not crowded. Of course, we managed to find the food paintings for our fill of fleishigs in art form. You can spend several hours in the adjacent shopping center as well.

Maestro After a 20 minute picturesque walk, we arrived at Maestro for lunch. With a wood burning oven and a dedicated pizza chef on staff, Maestro offers authentic and delicious Italian food. The burrata (fresh mozzarella cheese filled with cream) salad with fresh greens, cherry tomatoes, focaccia, pesto and a balsamic glaze was a meal on its own. Perhaps the biggest standout was the most luxurious homemade fettuccine, full of butter, lots of truffles and shards of Parmesan.

Eiffel Tower After an incredible lunch, we took a quick Uber ride to the Eiffel Tower. If you’re looking for a real workout, you can climb the 674 steps to the second floor or opt for the elevator ride (not recommended if you have a fear of heights!). Either way, you’ll be treated to the most breathtaking and unique view from the top.

Marais District For our next stop, we took the train to the Marais District. Filled with shopping, museums, historical sites and food, this area can be a whole-day experience on its own. Once a hub for religious Jews, the area still hosts an abundance of kosher restaurants, although it now boasts more of a hipster vibe, with a vibrant, busy nightlife.

L'As du Fallafel Long lines outside of L'As du Fallafel are a testament to this spot’s popularity (don’t worry, they move quickly). With outstanding falafel in both flavor and texture, fun vibes and both indoor and outdoor seating, we could easily understand the broad appeal.

Pitzman La Tour Eiffel isn’t the only mouthful Paris has to offer.

This inexpensive, family-friendly Israeli restaurant serves pizza and fries, as well as pasta and falafel. The tomato-based pizza we ordered came topped with a swirl of pesto, as well as an accompanying jar of honey to drizzle over, which was a unique touch. JULY 2020

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If you mess with du Boucher, prepare for the horns.

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Kosher Pizzeria In this small, nondescript pizza spot, the chef rolls out thin crust pizzas, with a cracker-like crust, a slightly sweet tomato sauce and a sprinkling of cheese. The crust is par-cooked, then finished with cheese and toppings and returned to the oven for the perfect crisp.

Rodchenko This popular modern restaurant truly defines what a French bistro is. Reservations are a must for this tiny spot

with an ever-present line out the door, and once seated, expect to be practically on top of the person sitting next to you. That said, we had one of our best meals in Paris here and it was truly worth it for every moment of this amazing experience. (See our Pesach issue for the recipes for pineapple carpaccio and meat-stuffed sweet potatoes, both inspired by our meal at Rodchenko.) Finally, we took the train back to our hotel, after a long day of traveling and eating.

opposite page: Chef Avner Guzman and Chef Éric Briffard

Chef Éric is one of the most acclaimed chefs in the world. After an esteemed career as a restaurant chef, including at Michelin-starred restaurants, he took the position of culinary arts director at Le Cordon Bleu, the leading international cooking school.

DAY

Korcarz Bakery For our last (short) day in Paris, we splurged on a private driver to allow us to squeeze in a few extra stops on our way to the airport. Our first stop was Korcarz Bakery, a mostly-pareve spot with great takeout and an incredible selection of pastries. The chocolate danish was the best we had ever tasted — unbelievably rich chocolate enveloped in a puff pastry-style dough, crackling with a delightful syrup glaze and edged with sugar crystals.

Boucherie Franck et Julien Our next quick stop was at one of the many authentic delis around Paris, where you can grab a quick, casual meal for as little as $10. This one was not in the center of town, but filled with locals nonetheless. Endless options for customizable sandwiches (including charcuterie, of course) make this the perfect pit stop on the way to or from the airport.

La Délicieuse Right next door to the Boucherie was an inexpensive bakery filled with Moroccan and Tunisian-style pastries as well as ready-to-go takeout items, perfect for us to add to our haul as we headed to the airport.

Kashrus Note: Most of the Jewish community in France eats meat that is not considered glatt and as such, many of the meat options available in restaurants may not be glatt kosher. Many consider it acceptable to eat fish, vegetarian and glatt kosher options in these restaurants, so consult your local Rabbi for personal guidance. Veal, lamb and chicken are more widely available with glatt certification and the majority of kosher dairy restaurants are chalav yisrael. Note on Anti-Semitism in Paris: One of the most frequent pieces of advice we heard before heading to Paris was not to wear a kippah or visible signs of Judaism in public and while there, countless people asked us if we felt safe. While it is well-known that Paris is not considered particularly friendly towards religious Jews and many locals make sure to always wear a hat or cap over their kippah, personally we felt no animosity and had no negative experiences while there. While we spent most of our time there wearing hats (it was winter, after all), Chef Avner told us that he feels comfortable walking around in his kippah.

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Fleishigs

EAT LIKE A PARISIAN

Chocolate Truffles Yields: 2 dozen truffles

Recipe By: Yosaif Krohn

One of the most famous kosher shops in Paris is Damyel Chocolates. They sell decadent non-dairy chocolates and the lightest macarons you’ll ever taste. We were inspired to reach out to Yosaif Krohn, owner and head chocolatier at Café Chocolat in Cedarhurst, NY, for his recipe and tips on making these rich chocolate treats at home. (Read more about Yosaif and Café Chocolat on page 100.) Note: Make sure to use coconut cream and not its highly sweetened relative, cream of coconut, which is used for desserts and drinks like piña coladas.

By: S H I F R A K L E I N Photography by: S C H N E U R M E N A K E R

ur trip to Paris inspired many amazing recipes that we have been sharing over the past few issues, including a pineapple carpaccio dessert as well as a sausage choucroute dish from the Pesach issue. Here are a few more amazing recipes that will help transport you to the streets of Paris.

2 1 1½ 2 2 ½

cup coconut cream coladas. Using the best quality chocolate possible is crucial. We used Schmerling's bittersweet chocolate. tablespoons corn syrup teaspoon pure vanilla extract or vanilla bean paste cups chopped bittersweet chocolate, such as Schmerling's tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute, at room temperature tablespoons bourbon, optional cup Dutch process cocoa

1. Add coconut cream and corn syrup to a saucepan over medium-low heat until little bubbles start to form around the surface. 2. Stir in vanilla and pour over chocolate; stir continuously until chocolate melts. 3. Add in butter and bourbon, if using, and stir until melted. 4. Refrigerate until firm. 5. Scoop out tablespoon-sized balls and roll in cocoa powder to fully coat. Set truffles on a parchment-lined baking sheet and refrigerate. Take it up a notch: • Dip truffles in melted chocolate before dusting with cocoa powder, for a hard shell-like coating. Feel free to dip truffles in a variety of toppings besides for cocoa powder, such as sprinkles or finely chopped nuts. • Add flavors like orange peel or mint leaves in with the coconut cream. Once simmered, remove from heat and steep for 30 minutes. Strain and reheat before pouring over chocolate. • Top with edible gold leaf or Maldon salt for a gourmet touch.

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EAT LIKE A PARISIAN

Steak Frites Serves: 4

By: Shifra Klein

This meal of simply seared steak, crispy fries and lightly dressed mixed greens is one of the most quintessential French dishes you can find. 4 2 3

(8-ounce) steaks of choice, seared (recipe page 24) Herb "Butter" (recipe follows) cups mixed greens tablespoons Balsamic Vinaigrette (page 24) Real French Fries (recipe follows)

1. Slice steaks and top with butter. 2. Toss greens with vinaigrette. 3. Plate steaks with greens and fries.

Herb "Butter" Yields: Heaping ½ cup

Combine ½ cup (1 stick) room temperature non-dairy butter substitute, ½ cup finely chopped parsley, 3 cloves finely minced garlic, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

FRENCH FRIES, THE REAL WAY By: Danielle Renov Reprinted with permission from Peas Love & Carrots: The Cookbook, page 302

For the love of everything good, please, at least attempt to dip your incredible French fries that you worked so hard to achieve in either good Dijon mustard or good mayonnaise. (Then, if you still want ketchup, fine. I give up.) 6-7

Russet potatoes, peeled and cut into thin strips cups peanut oil, for frying Table salt

1. Place cut potatoes into a bowl of ice water. You can do this step up to 48 hours in advance. If preparing in advance, refrigerate potatoes in the ice water. 2. Place cut potatoes in a single layer on a kitchen towel; pat dry. 3. Next, blanch the potatoes in oil. This step can be done up to 2 hours in advance. 4. To blanch, place a large pot of oil (leaving 3 inches from the top) on the stove over medium high heat; use a thermometer to determine when oil reaches 325°F / 163°C.

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5. Add potatoes in small batches; blanch for 6-8 minutes, until limp but slightly golden. 6. Remove fried potatoes to paper towels to drain. Repeat with remaining potatoes, working in batches. 7. Once you are ready to serve, raise heat and bring oil to 350°F / 180°C. 8. In small batches, fry potatoes again for 1 minute, stirring to prevent sticking. 9. Once golden and crispy, remove fries to a cooling rack; sprinkle generously with salt. Serve hot and enjoy.

DANIELLE'S PRO TIP While kosher salt is typically the seasoning of choice in cooking, table salt actually sticks to freshly fried French fries better than kosher salt, in my opinion.

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EAT LIKE A PARISIAN

Tunisian Tuna Sandwich Serves: 4

By: Shifra Klein

North African cuisine is a big part of French culture. Spicy harissa-laced tuna can be found in most delis and inspired this substantial sandwich.

⅓ ¼ 1 4 ⅓ 1 ½ 1 ½

large baguette, halved lengthwise and cut into 4 portions cup harissa (such as Mina) cup mayonnaise can tuna, drained and mashed soft-boiled eggs, peeled and quartered (recipe follows) cup chopped kalamata olives small red onion, thinly sliced cup fresh parsley teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Lightly toast baguettes. 2. Spread mayo on one half of each baguette and harissa on the other. 3. Top bottom halves with tuna, followed by eggs, olives, red onion and parsley. 4. Season with salt and pepper and close sandwich. SOFT-BOILED EGGS 1. Fill a small saucepan with water, cover and bring to a boil. Add a pinch of salt and gently lower eggs into the water (eggs should be fully submerged). Cook for 6 minutes. 2. Immediately transfer the eggs into a bowl of ice water.

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EAT LIKE A PARISIAN

Beef “Carpaccio” Serves: 2-4

By: Shifra Klein

Beef carpaccio is truly a delicacy in France, with cut-to-precision slices of raw or very lightly seared meat and perfectly paired accompaniments. We were inspired by the flavors of a traditional carpaccio but decided to make a more attainable (and family-friendly) version of this beloved dish.

1 ½ 2 ¼ 1 1 ½

pound steak of choice (such as oyster, Denver or filet mignon-style) teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoons olive oil, divided cup capers tablespoon balsamic vinegar tablespoon whole grain mustard cup chopped chives

1. Season steak with salt and pepper. Heat a cast iron pan or grill pan over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon oil and sear meat for 2 minutes per side. 2. Let rest until cooled, then refrigerate. 3. Slice meat as thinly as possible and arrange on a platter. 4. Scatter capers over sliced steak. 5. Combine remaining tablespoon oil, balsamic vinegar, mustard and chives and drizzle over meat.

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Fleishigs

EAT LIKE A PARISIAN

Chicken Cordon Bleu is a classic French dish that is typically stuffed with Swiss cheese and ham, then breaded like schnitzel, fried and basted in a butter sauce. We noticed a modified version at one of the kosher delis in Paris and knew we had to recreate it at home. Our version is coated in a creamy Dijon sauce and panko breadcrumbs, then baked until golden. It can be served at room temperature, but if you choose to stuff it with non-dairy cheese, it’s best served hot.

Serves: 4

4 4 4

2 ⅔ 2 2 1 1 ½

By: Shifra Klein

chicken breasts, pounded thin slices corned beef slices non-dairy cheese, optional cups mayonnaise, divided cup Dijon mustard, divided tablespoons honey, divided cups panko breadcrumbs cup pretzel crumbs teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Lemon wedges, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Spread out chicken breasts and top each with a slice of corned beef and cheese, if using. Roll up and seal edges with toothpicks. 2. Combine mayonnaise, Dijon and honey. Add half of the mixture to a plate, reserving the other half for dipping. Combine panko and pretzel crumbs on a second plate. 3. Dip chicken in mustard mixture, then coat in crumbs. Place in a 9x13-inch baking dish and cook for 30 minutes. 4. Sprinkle with kosher salt and black pepper; serve with lemon wedges and reserved dipping sauce.

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Fleishigs

INTERVIEW

YOSAIF KROHN

CAFÉ CHOCOLAT

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AFÉ CHOCOLAT, located on Central Avenue in Cedarhurst, NY, is arguably one of the best kosher chocolate shops in the tristate area, where all chocolates and pastries are made in-house. Owner Yosaif Krohn stopped by the Fleishigs test kitchen to talk about all things chocolate.

When did Café Chocolat begin? In 2007, we opened Le Chocolat in Cedarhurst followed by the opening of a second (summer only) location in Woodbourne, NY (in the Catskills region) the following year. We were part of a franchise and the focus of our business was corporate and seasonal gifts. Things shifted in 2008 because of the recession and we weren’t able to stay competitive as a third party venture.

How did you shift your focus and make it through rough times? I went to the Culinary Institute of America, where I trained with pastry chefs and learned how to make chocolate myself, which became the catalyst for our rebranding. We became independently owned and operated, and Café Chocolat was born. We also got more into coffee, which started as a necessity and then grew into a passion. We now offer an extensive coffee menu using Stumptown beans.

How did you create your chocolate and truffles menu? We don’t sell a lot of items. My thought process is, if this isn’t something I would want to take home and eat myself, I’m not going to produce it. I want to offer products that people will dream about. Therefore, we don’t www.fleishigs.com

INTERVIEW

take any shortcuts and are all about quality and high standards over profits. In that light, we hired world renowned pastry chef Michael Allen, who is an inspiration to work with.

What makes Chef Michael such an inspiration? Besides for being a great person, Michael brings his many years of experience in establishments such as Water’s Edge, Essex House and the United Nations, to name a few. He has helped expand a new world of production and creativity to our shop. We currently offer a line of fresh dairy pastries including butter croissants and croissant-style doughnuts every Chanukah season.

What are the most popular items on the menu? “Heaven in a Cup” is probably our most sought after drink. I’ve lost track of how many we’ve sold. It was actually created by accident when my aunt asked me to blend random

things together and it turned out to be the best kind of accident! It’s made from vanilla soft serve, a shot of espresso and high-quality Belgian chocolate. It’s blended together and offers that perfect balance of sweet ice cream, bitter coffee and rich chocolate. Our waffles, my wife Sarah’s brainchild, are also super popular, as well as our hazelnut praline bars and salted caramel pretzel truffles.

Do you prefer dairy or non-dairy chocolates? I would reframe the question to whether I prefer dark or milk chocolate. I’ve noticed that most kids don’t know the difference between semisweet (56%) dark chocolate and milk chocolate, but their parents will tell them “don’t get that — it's pareve.” We were brought up to think that milk chocolate is better, but I prefer the balance and rich flavor of dark chocolate.

What are your thoughts about indulgence? I observe people at their happiest, least stressed when they come in every once in a while to enjoy a blended drink, fully loaded waffle or a simple bar of dark chocolate. Look at the French — they indulge, but in moderation. I once heard a 15-year-old girl tell her friend that she stopped eating carrots because they have sugar, which is very unfortunate. I really believe in treating yourself and truly enjoying that treat.

What do you do when you're not making chocolate? I am a father of three and a trained musician and singer. I play the saxophone, so I make an appearance at many weddings. When I started the business, I was a full-time musician, playing at least three weddings a week. This is why you’ll always find great music playing over the speakers at Café Chocolat - it’s the convergence of my two passions.

Café Chocolat ships their famous chocolate nationwide, but it’s recommended to order during the cooler months. While they are currently perfecting their website (www. cafechocolatny. com), you can find them on Instagram @cafechocolateny, by phone 516792-2462 or in person at 556 Central Avenue, Cedarhurst NY.

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L'CHAIM

THE FRENCH PARADOX

BY: GABRIEL GELLER FRENCH PEOPLE ARE known for their rich cuisine, from pastries to fish and meat, all packed with butter or animal fat. Yet, comparatively speaking, the French suffer much less from cardiovascular diseases than most countries. Some attribute this paradox to the French wine culture. Indeed, many French people drink a glass or two of wine almost daily as part of their diet, with it being rich in antioxidants and other healthy nutrients. Whether wine does contribute to one’s health or not is a topic I will leave for a healthcare professional. However, I can say for sure that quality French wine is delicious! The worldwide wine industry looks at French wines, especially those from the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions, to be the benchmark of quality and craftsmanship up to which they measure themselves. In our very small world of kosher wines, most wineries are only a few years old. Some wineries such as Herzog, Domaine du Castel or Barkan are 25-35 years old and a handful of Israeli wineries such as Carmel or Zion have been around since the 19th century. That may sound old, but many wineries in France are 500-1000 years old! Although climate and trends constantly change, the most venerable (non-kosher) wineries such as Château Léoville Poyferré and Lascombes have always managed to maintain the style and quality that have established their reputations over the centuries. For most people, French wines have more than their part of mystery. Many French wines do not state anywhere on the label the grape varieties from which they are made. One needs to study a bit to understand where each French appellation is located and what that means as to the style of the wine. To top it off, the names of French wines are not easy at all to pronounce, unless of course you are fluent in French (a skill I deserve no credit for as French is my mother tongue). All of that makes it even more difficult to choose a French wine when you walk into a shop (or shop online). The truth is that every other French wine deserves its own dissertation. But to make it simpler, here is a short, handpicked selection of kosher French wines that are not to be missed.

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Château Signac, Pliocène, Côtes-du-Rhône, 2018 Another great wine is this Rhône Valley blend of Grenache and Syrah. It is fruity with some peppery notes and delightfully easy to drink. It pairs perfectly with grilled lamb chops, burgers, shawarma and hummus. At $20 or less a bottle, it is a bargain.

Château Piada, Sauternes, 2016 Let’s not forget dessert. This wine has a glorious history — the 1987 vintage was the first kosher wine from Sauternes. If you are lucky enough to own a well-stored bottle, it is still drinking amazingly well! The 2016 is excellent as well. Whether you choose to drink it now or age it for a decade or two, it won’t be available for much longer. This complex sweet wine has notes of honey, lemon curd, caramel, dried mango and apricot, yet it has plenty of balancing acidity to keep it refreshing and vibrant. A delicious wine to enjoy with chicken liver or duck pâté if you fancy the sweet and savory combo or with desserts such as apple or lemon meringue pie or waffles served with an apple compote and ice cream.

Champagne Drappier, Brut Nature, Pinot Noir Zero Dosage, NV Some drink Champagne for the bubbles, high acidity or for the subtle sweetness. I love Champagne even more so when it is bonedry! This one is arguably the driest kosher Champagne variety and its complex aromas and notes of fresh lemon and green apple make it the most versatile wine to pair with almost any type of food.

Château Les Riganes, Blanc, Bordeaux, 2019 While an expensive wine is not always a great wine, cheap wine is also not necessarily a bad wine. I love finding these QPR (qualityto-price ratio) gems and this is one of them. Very aromatic with bright, refreshing acidity, this is a delicious and inexpensive white Bordeaux made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc. It’s excellent with salads, salted nuts, dairy and grilled chicken.

5 4

Château Gazin-Rocquencourt, Blanc, PessacLéognan, 2018 Almost all wines made in Bordeaux are red wines, but there are a few exceptions to this rule. The Pessac-Léognan appellation, located south of the Bordeaux wine region, is renowned for producing white wines of equal and often superior quality than its reds. This variety is a white wine that is incredibly delicious and complex. As opposed to most white wines, this one will benefit from a few years of aging in the cellar and will evolve wonderfully over the coming decade. If you plan on making a rack of veal sometime soon and would like to further enhance the experience, this is the wine for you.

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Icebox cakes became very popular in the 1920s and 1930s due to their ease, with ingredients that were mostly pre-made. These days â&#x20AC;&#x201D; and especially in the summer months â&#x20AC;&#x201D; I think we can all agree that going back to basics is best. Even though the method is easy, there is nothing basic about the taste and look of these three icebox cake recipes. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also the perfect dessert to get kids involved in the kitchen. Keep in mind that icebox cakes need to be refrigerated overnight before serving (hence the name), so make sure to plan ahead.

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DESSERT

Cookies and Cream Icebox Cake Serves: 8

Who doesn’t love cookies and cream? This icebox cake is a real crowd pleaser, from children to adults alike. You can also make an entirely vanilla version with vanilla tea biscuits and vanilla sandwich cookies. The sky’s the limit!

(16-ounce) container non-dairy whipping cream (such as Rich’s Whip) 7 tablespoons vanilla pudding powder 28 chocolate tea biscuits 12-15 chocolate sandwich cookies (such as Oreos), plus more for topping 1. Line a loaf pan with 2 layers of plastic wrap, making sure that all sides are completely covered and there is some overhang all around. 2. Add non-dairy whipping cream and vanilla pudding powder to the bowl of a

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stand mixer (or use a hand mixer) and whip until it forms soft peaks. 3. Using a small inverted spatula or butter knife, spread a thin layer of whipped cream on the bottom and up the sides of the prepared loaf pan. 4. Begin by placing the flat side of a tea biscuit, horizontally, onto the cream on the long side of the pan. Take a second tea biscuit and spread about a tablespoon of cream on one side, then place it against the first one. Continue layering until the pan is full. There should be 3 rows of approximately 9 biscuits layered with cream. If there is no room for the last row, break www.fleishigs.com

DESSERT

the biscuits in half to fit. 5. Spread remaining whipped cream over the top, so that the empty spaces are filled and the biscuits are completely covered. Push 10 whole sandwich cookies into the cream. Cover the top with the plastic wrap overhang and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight. 6. When the cake is fully chilled, uncover the top and invert onto a serving platter. Lift the pan off the cake. If needed, smooth out the cream along the sides, crush the remaining Oreo cookies and sprinkle on top. 7. If making a few days in advance, chill in the freezer, not the fridge.

BRAIN FREEZE WITH EASE

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DESSERT

Ombré Coffee Icebox Cake Serves: 8

While the ombré effect may seem daunting, this is actually a very simple cake to assemble; it’s just layering the biscuits with cream. The trick is to use the same bowl for whipping all the creams, from lightest in color to darkest (no need to wash the bowl in between!). You can also whip all the cream at once, then divide evenly among three bowls and lightly beat or whisk in remaining ingredients.

LIGHT COFFEE WHIPPED CREAM ½ ½ 1

cup non-dairy whipping cream (such as Rich’s Whip) teaspoon instant coffee granules tablespoon confectioners’ sugar

COFFEE WHIPPED CREAM ½ 1½ 2 2

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cup non-dairy whipping cream (such as Rich’s Whip) teaspoons instant coffee granules tablespoons confectioners’ sugar teaspoons cocoa powder

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MOCHA WHIPPED CREAM

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1 2 1½

cup non-dairy whipping cream (such as Rich’s Whip) teaspoon instant coffee granules tablespoons confectioners’ sugar tablespoons cocoa powder

CHOCOLATE GANACHE ½ ½

cup non-dairy whipping cream (such as Rich’s Whip) cup bittersweet chocolate chips

ASSEMBLY Approximately 28 vanilla tea biscuits Viennese crunch chocolate, chopped 1. First, make the light coffee whipped cream. Add whipping cream to the bowl of a stand mixer (or use a hand mixer) and whip until it forms soft peaks. 2. Add remaining ingredients for the light coffee whipped cream and beat until just incorporated. Transfer to a separate bowl. 3. Repeat in two more batches, using the same bowl, to make the coffee and mocha whipped creams.

4. To make the chocolate ganache, place whipping cream and chocolate chips into a glass bowl and heat in the microwave for 30 second intervals, until fully melted. Alternatively, melt over a double boiler. Let cool slightly. 5. Cover the bottom of an 8- or 9-inch square pan (preferably glass) with a single layer of tea biscuits. 6. Spread the light coffee whipped cream onto the tea biscuits. 7. Cover the cream with another layer of biscuits, taking care not to press down too hard on the cream. 8. Continue layering with coffee whipped cream, a layer of tea biscuits, mocha whipped cream and a final layer of tea biscuits. 9. Pour ganache over the top layer of biscuits and sprinkle with chopped Viennese crunch. 10. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight.

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DESSERT

Strawberry Shortcake Icebox Cake Serves: 8

This is a true taste of the season and screams summer. 2Â˝ 6 1 1 1

cups fresh or frozen strawberries, quartered tablespoons sugar teaspoon lemon juice cup non-dairy whipping cream (such as Rich's Whip) (5.1-ounce) box vanilla pudding mix, prepared according to package directions Approximately 20 vanilla cream-filled wafers

1. Toss strawberries with sugar and lemon juice. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. 2. Add whipping cream to the bowl of a stand mixer (or use a hand mixer) and whip until it forms soft peaks. Fold into prepared pudding. 3. For a layered look, spread a thin layer of pudding mixture on the bottom of an 8- or 9-inch square pan (preferably glass). 4. Top with enough wafers to cover the surface. 5. Spread about half of the remaining pudding mixture on top of the wafer layer and top with half of the macerated strawberries. 6. Top with another layer of wafers, pudding and macerated strawberries. (Alternatively, plate all ingredients on a cake stand, as pictured.) 7. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight.

Rosa Seidenwar trained as a pastry chef at Estella in Tel Aviv. She started blogging on Instagram, creating quick and easy dessert recipes for busy parents who enjoy baking but may not have the time. In addition to blogging, Rosa is a food photographer and food stylist for various brands, with a focus on video content. Rosa lives with her husband and five kids in Southern Israel. Find Rosa on Instagram @rosa_lilyrose or on her website www.lilyrosebakersblog.com.

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RECIPE INDEX KEY: FF Family-Friendly M Minimal Ingredients Q Quick

*We typically have a GF category in our guide, indicating the recipes that are gluten-free, but we didn’t include it this time because the majority of the recipes in this issue were naturally glutenfree! Therefore, we starred the ones that were not gluten-free instead, many of which can easily be made gluten-free with easy substitution.

CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 20 Balsamic Vinaigrette Q 24 American Marinade FF M Q 24 Cocoa-Cumin Rub M Q 24 Curry-Lime Mayo M Q 45 All-Purpose Spice Rub Q 50 Chimichurri Q 52 Pickled Red Onions FF M Q 60 Candied Bourbon Beef Fry M 60 South African Biltong Rub M Q 69 Homemade Grilled Pita Bread FF M * 94 Herb “Butter” M Q 96 Soft-Boiled Eggs M Q

SALADS & SIDES 24 52 58 60 94

Summer Steak Salad FF Smoked Beets M Corn and Beef Fry Succotash Beef Fry Cornbread FF * French Fries FF M

FISH 44 45 45 50

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Cajun Chilean Sea Bass M Q Tofu and Tuna Poke Bowls FF Q * Salmon Burgers * Cedar Plank Hot-Smoked Salmon M

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28 VEGETARIAN

69 Shakshuka Q 69 Whole Grilled Eggplant M 69 Grilled Sabich Platter 79 Chickpea and Tomato Tagine 96 Tunisian Tuna Sandwich *

CHICKEN 17 53 53 73 79 99

Chutney and Coke Chicken FF M Smoked Chicken Wings FF M Smoked Chicken FF M Braised Chicken and Celery FF Moroccan Lemon and Chicken Tagine FF Chicken Cordon Bleu FF

MEAT & LAMB 24 24 24 34 44 56 79 94 97

Marinated Denver Steak FF M Spice-Rubbed Denver Steak FF M Sous Vide Denver Steak FF M Chipotle Barbecue Broiled Skirt Steak M Smoked Brisket FF M South African Grill FF Q Moroccan Lamb and Dried Fruit Tagine Steak Frites FF M Beef “Carpaccio” M Q

SWEET TREATS 60 92 106 108 109 114

Corn Ice Cream Chocolate Truffles FF Cookies and Cream Icebox Cake FF Q * Ombré Coffee Icebox Cake FF * Strawberry Shortcake Icebox Cake FF Q * Watermelon Slush FF M

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LAST BITE

WATERMELON SLUSH Yields: 10 cups

By: Danielle Renov

Refreshing, easy to make and loved by children and adults alike. 1 6 1¼ 1 ¼

cup sugar cups cubed watermelon cups lime juice (from 8-9 limes) cup tequila, optional teaspoon Maldon salt, optional

1. Place a large sieve over a bowl. 2. Make simple syrup by adding sugar and 1 cup water to a saucepan over low heat. Simmer until sugar is dissolved. 3. Working in batches (based on the size of your blender or food processor), purée watermelon using a food processor fitted with an “S” blade. Pour into the sieve to strain juices into the bowl. Push through with a spoon, then discard pulp. You should have about 6 cups watermelon juice. 4. Add simple syrup and lime juice. If making alcoholic variation, add tequila and salt and stir to combine. 5. Pour into an airtight container and place a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the purée; freeze for at least 6 hours or overnight. 6. Set out at room temperature for 1 hour to thaw slightly. 7. Add chunks of frozen mixture into food processor fitted with an “S” blade; pulse until mixture becomes slushy. Don’t over-pulse or it will liquify. 8. Return mixture to the same container and refreeze for 1 hour, then stir with a metal spoon. Return container to the freezer until 10 minutes prior to serving. 114

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