Fleishigs Magazine Issue 020 - Sep/Oct 2020 by Fleishigs Magazine

EDITOR'S LETTER

HOLIDAY ISSUE

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein

This new year, let’s go back to the old normal. THE FIRST COOKBOOK I ever used was Kosher by Design by Susie Fishbein, which was gifted to us for our wedding by a good friend. “This is the standard of food I expect when invited over,” was inscribed inside. I was immediately hooked — my favorite recipes included the Strawberry Fields Salad; Purple Cabbage Salad; Parmesan Crusted Grouper; and Chicken Negemaki with Red Pepper Chutney. I was introduced to new flavor combinations and food adventures, spearheading my love of experimenting in the kitchen.

Among the thousands of people Susie inspired along her journey is bestselling cookbook author Adeena Sussman. Last winter, when we spent some time together in Tel Aviv, Adeena mentioned that she would love to do a feature on Susie, who she deemed the “first kosher influencer.” This was the beginning of the makings of our second Yom Tov issue (issue #20!). We brought together an all-star group of contributors, each with a different menu style, allowing you to create something magical that works for your needs and taste preferences. Chef Isaac Bernstein shared his invaluable skills on how to create a perfect menu using humble ingredients in versatile ways. He transformed simple root vegetables and chicken into many multi-purpose menus that can not only be served for this holiday season, but will remain in your repertoire for good. Event planner Reena Goldberger contributed an elegant, gourmet menu concept with

treasures like a perfectly cooked silver tip roast with baby yams and a pavlova for dessert that we topped with cherries, red currants and figs. (Feel free to customize with whatever fruits you prefer or have on hand.) Event planner Heshy Jay of Scoop and Co. Events shared his brilliant perspective on using storebought items and shortcuts to create elegantly plated food. Heshy layered parchment crackers with fresh fish and guacamole to create an elegant tartare Napoleon. Pre-formed sliders were used to make kofta, served over charred baby eggplant. To top off the issue with some tradition for the season, food blogger and cookbook author Chanie Apfelbaum shared some of her favorite stuffed foods and challah baker Mandy Silverman offered her meat-stuffed challahs. Something we are truly excited about is the newest food experience to hit the kosher market — omakase, a personalized Japanese culinary experience — which we covered in a fun-filled, intimate event, perfect for the time we are living in. A large part of what makes Yom Tov special is the food. It’s how we celebrate with those we love and care for. I hope this issue will help you create wonderful memories and bring in a fun, fresh, inspiring start to the Jewish New Year.

EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss PROOFREADER Sara Linder ART DIRECTOR Naftoli Mann DESIGN & MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Alana White COPYWRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Here’s to you o’ Fleishigs reader, fine diner, and meticulous preparer. The one who knows good content from bad, the one who can cook with deadlines due even when the dinner list grows by a few. You’re a fine chef, and better eater too, and we’re thankful because we’d be nothing without you. This issue was designed to the sweet musical stylings of Chris Isaak, Young Rechnitz and Yerachmiel Begun.

Bitayavon, Shifra

TRIED ONE OF OUR RECIPES? LET US KNOW! Hello@fleishigs.com Instagram/twitter: @fleishigsmag Facebook: fleishigsmagazine

ROSH HASHANA FEAST

Reena Goldberger brings the elegance with this gourmet menu

CULINARY SCHOOL How to Build a Menu with Chef Isaac Bernstein

EDITORâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S LETTER

GADGETS Essentials and extras to enhance your holiday cooking

UNIQUE STAPLES Our favorite unique staples for making this issue

BUTCHER'S CUT Meat expert Naftali Hanau discusses the wonders of veal breast

26 BREAD BAKING Meat-filled challah with Mandy Silverman 35 TRADITION Stuffed foods with Chanie Apfelbaum 56 PROFILE Susie Fishbein

SUKKOT FEAST

Tips and tricks from Heshy Jay of Scoop & Co

98 RESTAURANT CHRONICLES Omakase 104 HEALTH Olive Oil 118 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Vitkin Winery 123 COOKBOOK REVIEW Modern Kosher by Michael Aaron Gardiner 126 INTERVIEW Elizabeth Savetsky 128 RECIPE INDEX 130 LAST BITE

112 TRAVEL

Seattle, Washington

If you take advantage of this offer, you’ll have issues. Get a year of Fleishigs goodness & save up to 10% off the newsstand rate.

ISSUES

only

Personal Subscription

Name Address City/State/Zip Phone Email Credit Card Information (or pay by check or money order) Credit Card Number

Enjoy the discount, and getting the inside scoop on all things meat before your sister-in-law, your mother-in-law, and the yenta next door. Hmmm, delicious.

1 year subscription

Gift Subscription

Expiration Date

Security Code

Visa / Mastercard / American Express Name on Card

($66 value)

Address City/State/Zip

order online: ﬂeishigs.com | email: hello@ﬂeishigs.com | call: 917.703.8145

WE COMPILED SOME OF OUR FAVORITE HONEY DISHES TO ENHANCE YOUR HOLIDAY TABLE Le Creuset Honey Pot with Dipper Made from quality stoneware, the porcelainenamel glaze finish on this honey pot keeps it exceptionally strong and durable. It comes with a silicone-bottomed honey dipper, which makes for easier clean up. Plus, the sunny yellow adds a welcome pop of color to a kitchen counter or table.

$45 www.crateandbarrel.com

CUTCO BREAD KNIFE We featured Cutco’s bread knife in the sandwich issue and love it so much that we had to feature it again. It sliced through hefty meat-stuffed challahs with almost no effort. It comes in two sizes (7-¾” and 9-¾”) and Cutco stands by their products with their “forever guarantee” and free sharpening. $114-$118 www.cutco.com

Marrakesh Bridal Honey Dish A show-stopping piece that comes in two colors, this Morrocan-inspired honey dish is enhanced by 24k gold and pearlescent details.

$178.50 www.questcollection.com

BENRINER JAPANESE MANDOLINE As opposed to the bulkier varieties, a Japanese mandoline is more affordable and takes up little space in the kitchen. With knobs to adjust thickness level, curved interchangeable blades for precise cuts and a safety guard, this mandoline is a great addition to any kitchen. $24.50 www.amazon.com

PROFESSIONAL ALUMINUM CHALLAH PANS With these commercial-quality pans, you will never have a dull looking challah again. They come in a multitude of shapes and sizes, are durable, washable and give challah a beautiful shape and structure.

Bellagio Decorated Honey Dish

This ornate silver honey dish, made from high quality 925 sterling silver, truly makes a statement.

$433 www.hazorfim.com

Prices vary depending on size www.thepeppermillinc.com

Swarm Glass Honey Pot

We love this honey dish set for its simplistic design and affordability.

$7.95 www.cb2.com

VITAMIX 5200 BLENDER

Make silky smooth purées and soups with this high-powered blender. It’s great for the kosher cook because you can buy separate containers of varying sizes to keep for dairy, meat and pareve. $449.95 www.vitamix.com

THE BETTER HOUSE SIFTER This stainless steel fine mesh sifter is a workhorse in the kitchen. From sifting flour and straining pasta to rinsing beans or fruit, it’s truly multi-purpose. Available in four sizes. $13.59 www.thebetterhouse.com

Hearth & Hand with Magnolia Stoneware Honey Pot

Bring the farmhouse feel into your home with this charming stoneware honey pot. The acacia wood lid and accompanying dipper round it out.

$9.99 www.target.com

HANSGO Honeycomb Sticks

MICROPLANE ZESTER/GRATER These easy-to-grip graters are a must have. From zesting citrus to grating ginger and garlic, they are truly multi-purpose.

This set of 36 mini wood honey stirrers is perfect for a Rosh Hashana tablescape. Simply tie to each napkin in lieu of napkin rings.

$9.99 www.amazon.com

$14.99 www.bedbathandbeyond.com 12

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

TUSCANINI PARCHMENT CRACKERS

SAVANNAH BEE COMPANY TUPELO HONEY Known as “queen of the honey world,” Savannah Bee Company’s Tupelo honey is all-natural, has a distinct flavor and light color and is produced from trees in specific regions of Florida and Georgia. It’s available in four sizes and makes an excellent hostess gift. Certified kosher by KSA.

These crackers are delicate and paper thin, yet deliver an intense crunch that is a welcome addition to any board for entertaining. It comes in two flavors — olive oil-oregano and olive oilrosemary. Pas yisrael/certified kosher by the OU.

MISO MASTER WHITE MISO Miso, a fermented soybean paste, delivers a boost of umami flavor that can’t be replicated. It comes in multiple varieties, from mild to strong — red, brown, yellow and white. We used white miso in the Warm Coconut Broth (page 53). Certified kosher by the OU.

BUBBYS SAUTÉED ONIONS

GAIA COFFEE ROASTERS COFFEE RUB Gaia is known for their small-batch, roasted-to-order coffee, ground from beans sourced from all over the world. They have used their ground coffee to create an intensely flavorful spice rub that would pair wonderfully with the Beef Fry Wrapped Lamb Chops on page 93 (use instead of wasabi). It’s new to the market and will be available on their website, www.gaiacoffee.com. Certified kosher by the OK.

BRAGG NUTRITIONAL YEAST Nutritional yeast is vegan, gluten-free and rich in B vitamins. Use it on eggs, roasted vegetables, popcorn, sauces or Cauliflower Gratin (page 74) to impart a unique cheesy flavor. Certified kosher by the OU. 14

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

New to the market, this product is a great shortcut when a recipe calls for caramelized onions (such as in the Silver Tip Roast with Caramelized Shallots, page 48). It can also be used to provide an instant boost of flavor to any sandwich or salad. Certified kosher by the OU/CRC.

KOKO GOCHUJANG This Asian fermented hot pepper paste brings a bold, spicy flavor to any dish. We love it on meat, chicken and especially vegetables, such as acorn squash (page 77). Certified kosher by the OK.

BONNE MAMAN FIG PRESERVES MEAL MART BROILED CHICKEN LIVERS Meal Mart’s pre-broiled variety takes the guesswork out of livers, which are otherwise hard to kasher. Use it to make Drunken Liver Mousse Stuffed Figs (page 39) for a delicious holiday appetizer. Certified kosher by the OU.

One of our favorites for both sweet and savory applications, Bonne Maman fig jam only has a few ingredients. It’s perfect in Reena’s Port, Fig and Rosemary Jam (page 48) or in the Fig and Balsamic Salami Stuffed Challah (page 33). Certified kosher by the OU. www.fleishigs.com

BUTCHER'S CUT

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

BUTCHER'S CUT

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

BUTCHER'S CUT

Unvealievable Not all things get better with age.

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

A VEAL BREAST IS the same cut as the brisket on a full-sized steer, but cut with the bones attached. You can immediately understand the appeal — nicely marbled meat that braises to meltingly tender with a lighter, almost floral flavor. Rose veal are young steer that graze and nurse freely without confinement and have more color and flavor than conventional veal, but are still much more tender and lighter than beef. As such, they take very well to herby and sweet seasonings, such as sage, thyme and rosemary or sauces made from peaches, apricots and oranges.

A veal breast can have a “pocket” cut into it, essentially making a space between the meat and the bone, which can be stuffed with rice, nuts, dried fruit or herbs before roasting. It can also be dry brined with a sugar, spice and salt mixture before roasting low and slow. Alternatively, you can braise it just like a brisket.

www.fleishigs.com

BUTCHER'S CUT

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

BUTCHER'S CUT

Soy Braised Veal Breast Serves: 6

While often utilized for stuffing, this cut can do very well unstuffed and treated similarly to a brisket. This version combines Asian flavors with onions and kabocha squash for an all-in-one dish.

1 1

1 1 ½ 1 ¼ ¼

2 2 3 1 2 1

Spanish onion, thinly sliced kabocha squash, cut into 2-inch slices teaspoon kosher salt tablespoon olive oil cup chicken broth (4-pound) veal breast without pocket cup brown sugar cup mirin or sweet white wine (like Bartenura Blue) tablespoons soy sauce tablespoons rice vinegar cloves garlic, minced tablespoon freshly grated ginger teaspoons spicy mustard teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon curry powder

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Add onions and squash to the bottom of a 9x13-inch baking

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

dish. Season with salt and drizzle with olive oil and chicken broth. Place veal breast over vegetables.

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Add onions,

2. Combine remaining ingredients and pour over roast. Roast for 20 minutes, until golden brown. Lower heat to 350°F, cover and cook for 2 hours and 45 minutes.

of a 9x13-inch baking dish.

3. Allow to cool, preferably in the fridge overnight. Slice, then reheat until warmed through.

3. Blend remaining ½ cup olive oil and 1

carrots, celery, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 1 teaspoon salt and chicken broth to the bottom 2. Stuff veal pocket with kishka and place on top of vegetables. teaspoon salt with garlic, paprika, onion powder, pepper, coriander and sugar. Pour over veal, then cover and cook for 3 hours.

Kishka Stuffed Veal Breast Serves: 6

1 3 3 1 2 ½ 1 6 1 1 ½ ½ 1

Spanish onion, sliced carrots, diced stalks celery, diced tablespoon + ½ cup olive oil, divided teaspoons kosher salt, divided cup chicken broth Homemade Kishka (recipe follows) (4-pound) veal breast with pocket cloves garlic teaspoon smoked paprika teaspoon onion powder teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon ground coriander teaspoon sugar

Raise heat to 500°F, uncover and roast for 15 minutes, until veal starts to sizzle. 4. Allow to cool, preferably in the fridge overnight. Slice, then reheat until warmed through.

Homemade Kishka Combine 1½ cups all-purpose flour, ½ cup chopped onion, 2 teaspoons kosher salt, 1 teaspoon smoked paprika, 1 teaspoon granulated garlic, 1 teaspoon onion powder, 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and 1 teaspoon sugar. Add ⅔ cup oil and mix until crumbly. Add ¼ cup boiling water and carefully mix until smooth.

www.fleishigs.com

CULINARY SCHOOL

M a k e

e v e ry

w e e k

c h a l l a d ay

BREAD BAKING

Fleishigs

HINKING OF NEW and inventive ways to incorporate seasonal flavors into challah is one of the best parts of my job. Inspiration can be found in all sorts of places, but my favorite place to look is back to my favorite dishes from growing up. Both of the following meat recipes are reminiscent of Shabbat meals at home. My dad thinks no Jewish holiday can be celebrated without a proper brisket and my momâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s marinated salami (aka Mommy Lami) is requested by my children every single time they visit their Baubie.

Adapting these family classics to make them special for the holidays is one thing, but to make them work stuffed in a challah is another. Meat-stuffed challah is a fun and unique showstopper; the secret to success is the tender and flavorful meat inside. Slow cooking the brisket renders it incredibly soft and pulling the meat enables the perfect ratio when stuffed inside the dough. Taking the time to marinate it in the homemade pomegranate barbecue sauce after shredding pushes it over the edge! To make sure your spectacular stuffing lives up to its tasty potential, remember that the consistency of the challah dough is key. Dough that is too wet will be hard to shape and wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t bake properly. Dough that is too dry will not rise well and will taste dense and floury. The goal is to create a cohesive ball of dough that is smooth to the touch. Dough consistency can vary from kitchen to kitchen based on weather, humidity levels and type of flour used. You can get your dough to the proper consistency simply by adding flour or water, one or two tablespoons at a time, as the dough comes together before the first rise. If you live in a particularly humid area or are finding that you are having to add a lot of flour, try using only 1 cup of water at first and adding more as necessary.

SEPT/OCT 2020

NOTE These recipes call for instant yeast. That means the yeast does not need to be proofed first and is added in with all the other ingredients.

www.fleishigs.com

BREAD BAKING

M andy ’ s Challah R ecipe Yield: 2 loaves FOR THE CHALLAH DOUGH:

1⅓ ⅓ 4 2 4¼ ½ 1

cups water cup canola oil egg yolks teaspoons table salt cups bread flour cup sugar tablespoon instant yeast

FOR THE EGG WASH:

1 1

egg yolk teaspoon water

1. Add ingredients to a bread machine in the order specified by the manufacturer. Set machine for “dough” cycle. If not using a bread machine, combine all the ingredients in a large bowl, turn out onto a floured board and knead for 5 minutes. Add back to the bowl, cover and allow to rise in a dark place for 1½ hours. You can also mix in a stand mixer and knead for 5 minutes, until smooth, using the dough hook attachment. 2. When the dough cycle is complete, remove dough from the bread machine and divide into six equal portions. 3. On a floured surface, roll three portions into long ropes. Then, follow instructions to make Fig and Balsamic Salami Stuffed Challah or Pulled Pomegranate Brisket Stuffed Challah. 4. Once challahs are stuffed and braided, cover with a towel and let rise for 20 minutes in a draft-free place. 5. Preheat oven to 350°F. Beat egg yolk with water and brush over each challah. 6. Bake for approximately 50-60 minutes or until golden brown. Remove challahs from pans and let cool on a wire rack.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

We’re not pulling your leg, just your brisket PULLED POMEGRANATE BRISKET STUFFED CHALLAH Yield: 2 loaves

Tip: Be sure to select a brisket with fat on it, like second cut. If your cut of brisket is too lean, it will not be as moist or pull as easily.

½ ½ 3 2 2 1 1 3 1 2 1

cup pomegranate molasses cup ketchup tablespoons soy sauce tablespoons oil tablespoons Dijon mustard tablespoon onion powder large onion, halved and thinly sliced cloves garlic, minced (3-pound) brisket teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon granulated garlic Mandy’s Challah Dough Pomegranate Aioli, for serving (recipe follows)

1. Combine pomegranate molasses, ketchup, soy sauce, oil, mustard, onion powder, onion and garlic in a slow cooker. 2. Season brisket with salt, pepper and garlic powder and place in the slow cooker, turning to coat in the sauce. Cover and cook on high for 5-6 hours or low for 9-11 hours, until soft and fork tender. 3. Remove brisket from slow cooker and let cool entirely. Remove excess fat and shred with two forks. Cover shredded brisket with

gravy and refrigerate for 1 hour or up to overnight. 4. When the dough cycle is complete, remove dough from the bread machine and divide into 6 equal portions. 5. On a floured surface, roll three portions into long ropes. Then, using a rolling pin, roll each portion into a 10x5inch rectangle. 6. Place a generous ½ cup pulled brisket down the center of each rectangle. 7. Starting from the long edge of the dough, gently bring both sides of the dough over the brisket and pinch together, sealing the brisket within the dough. Repeat for all 3 rectangles. 8. Carefully braid each of the rolls together, then place on a greased loaf pan or lined cookie sheet. Repeat with remaining dough. 9. Continue with step 4 of Mandy's Challah recipe.

Pomegranate Aioli Combine ⅓ cup mayonnaise, 3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses, 2 tablespoons honey, 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard, 2 cloves minced garlic and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Mix until smooth.

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

Put salami in your chally FIG BALSAMIC SALAMI STUFFED CHALLAH Yield: 2 loaves

The secret to this challah is to use thinsliced deli salami as opposed to a log of salami. The thin salami slices are infused quickly with the delicious flavors of the fig and balsamic marinade. Additionally, the thin texture of the salami allows you to roll the dough like you would for cinnamon buns. Not only will your challah taste amazing, but it will also cut beautifully. Note: To deepen the color and add more flavor, add 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar to the egg wash. 1 3 4 1 2

(13-ounce) jar fig preserves tablespoons balsamic vinegar cloves garlic, minced tablespoon minced fresh ginger pounds sliced deli salami Mandyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Challah Dough

1. Combine fig preserves, balsamic vinegar, garlic and ginger. Arrange the sliced salami in a pan with deep sides and pour marinade over salami. Use a pastry brush or spoon to make sure that the salami is completely coated in the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to overnight. 2. When the dough cycle is complete, remove dough from the bread machine and divide into six equal portions. 3. On a floured surface, roll three portions into long ropes. Then, using a rolling pin, roll each portion into a 12x5inch rectangle. 4. Using half of the salami, distribute an equal portion down each rectangle. Starting from the long edge of the dough, gently but tightly roll the dough up to the end and pinch along the seam to seal. 5. Carefully braid the rolls together, then place on a greased loaf pan or lined cookie sheet. Repeat with remaining dough and salami. 6. Continue with step 4 of Mandy's Challah recipe.

Mandy Silverman founded Mandylicious in 2013 in Sharon, MA. Since then, she has created over 300 unique challah and babka recipes and has developed a worldwide following. In addition to selling challah and teaching classes, she loves sharing her recipes and tips, while supporting others who want to make their own challah too. Follow Mandy on Instagram @mandyliciouschallah.

B Y

C H A N I E

A P F E L B A U M

Jews have been stuffing foods for generations. From cabbage and grape leaves to kreplach and blintzes, stuffed foods carry tradition, symbolism and even mystical meaning. Kreplach or dumplings are traditionally eaten on the eve of Yom Kippur as well as Hoshana Rabba, both days of judgement. Kabbalistically, the meat-filled pockets are meant to symbolize our hope that G-d will coat our judgements (represented by meat) in mercy (represented by bread or dough). The tradition of eating stuffed foods on Sukkot is symbolic of an abundant harvest season. Since the wheat is harvested in Israel during the fall, we stuff foods to symbolize our desire for an overflowing harvest. This is popularly done with stuffed cabbage, which some say are also made to resemble the scrolls of a Torah. So...letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s get stuffing!

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

TRADITION

Marzipan-Stuffed Baked Apples Serves: 6

Apples and marzipan go together like, well, apples and honey, and I couldn't resist putting a spin on the classic baked apple. Editor’s Note: If you do not love the almondforward flavor of marzipan, substituting vanilla extract in place of the almond extract will give you that perfect balance. 3

⅓ ⅔ ⅓ ⅓ ⅓ ⅓ 1

¼ 1

Fleishigs

Pink Lady apples (or other firm apples such as Braeburn, Jonagold or Honeycrisp) cup refined coconut oil cup old fashioned oats cup all-purpose flour cup almond flour cup sugar cup sliced almonds teaspoon almond extract or vanilla extract teaspoon kosher salt Cinnamon, to taste Honey, to taste cup apple cider Vanilla ice cream, for serving (optional)

SEPT/OCT 2020

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Cut apples in half from stem to end and use a spoon or melon baller to scoop out the stem, seeds and core. Arrange apple halves in a baking dish, flesh side up. 2. Melt coconut oil in a medium saucepan, then remove from heat. Add oats, flours, sugar, almonds, extract and salt and stir to combine. 3. Top apples with the mixture evenly, pressing down gently. Sprinkle with cinnamon and drizzle with honey. 4. Pour apple cider into the bottom of the baking dish, cover with foil and bake for 2530 minutes or until the apples are mostly soft. Uncover and bake for an additional 20-30 minutes, until the topping is lightly browned. 5. Serve warm with ice cream, if desired.

www.fleishigs.com

TRADITION

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

TRADITION

Drunken Liver Mousse Stuffed Figs Serves: 8

This recipe is an ode to the Klein's affinity for chopped liver, which you can watch Shlomo prepare almost weekly on Instagram. 2 1 2 ¾ ½ ¾ 2 1 ¼ 18 ¼

tablespoons olive oil large shallot, finely diced cloves garlic, minced pound broiled chicken livers teaspoon allspice cup brandy or cognac bay leaves teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon black pepper Zest and juice of ½ an orange fresh figs cup roasted, salted pistachios, chopped

1. Heat olive oil in a 10-inch sauté pan over medium heat. Add shallots and cook until softened, then add garlic and cook until fragrant. Add liver and sauté just until heated through. Add allspice and sauté for another 2 minutes. 2. Add brandy or cognac to the pan to deglaze, scraping up any browned bits with a wooden spoon. Add bay leaves, salt and pepper, then simmer over medium-low heat until the liquid reduces to 3-4 tablespoons. 3. Remove bay leaves and transfer the mixture to a blender. Add orange juice and purée until smooth and creamy. 4. Trim the stems off the figs and cut them into quarters, keeping the bottoms intact. 5. Add the liver mousse to a piping bag and fill the figs. Garnish with orange zest and chopped pistachios. NOTE: Prepared kosher chicken livers are broiled to remove the blood. If purchasing a fresh liver, make sure to broil before using in this recipe.

Chanie Apfelbaum is a food blogger, recipe developer and food photographer who shares her love of food, family and tradition on her popular Instagram platform @busyinbrooklyn, as well as on her blog, www.busyinbrooklyn.com. She is the author of the best-selling cookbook, Millennial Kosher (Artscroll Mesorah Publications) and is currently working on her second book, to be released by Clarkson Potter, Fall 2022.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

TRADITION

Simanim Potstickers Serves: 12

Potstickers are the millennial version of kreplach! I've added some symbolic foods that are traditionally eaten on Rosh Hashanah, including leeks, carrots, pomegranate and honey. 1 ½

pound ground turkey cup thinly sliced leeks, white parts only ½ cup shredded carrots 1-inch knob fresh ginger, grated 2 cloves garlic, grated 1 tablespoon soy sauce 2 teaspoons toasted sesame oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1 package round wonton wrappers ⅓ cup sesame seeds (optional) 2 tablespoons neutral flavored oil, such as grapeseed or canola

Dipping Sauce ¼ cup pomegranate juice ¼ cup honey 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1. Combine turkey, leeks, carrots, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, sesame oil, salt and pepper. 2. Working with 1 wonton wrapper at

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

a time, fill the center of each wrapper with 2 teaspoons of filling. Using a pastry brush, brush water around the edge of the wrapper. Fold the dough over the filling and press down the edges to seal. Repeat with remaining wrappers. 3. Place the sesame seeds in a shallow bowl, if using. Brush the bottoms of the potstickers with water, then dip in sesame seeds. 4. Heat oil in a large sauté pan set over medium heat. When the oil shimmers, add the potstickers and cook until the bottoms are light golden brown, about 2-3 minutes. Carefully pour 3 tablespoons of water into the skillet and immediately cover with a tight-fitting lid. Reduce heat to low and let the potstickers steam for 5-6 minutes, until filling is cooked through. 5. To make the sauce, combine all ingredients in a small saucepan. Bring mixture to a simmer and cook until sauce thickens and coats the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. NOTE: To prepare ahead of time, prepare the potstickers through step 3. Freeze on a baking sheet until solid, then transfer to a Ziploc bag. When ready to serve, cook the potstickers directly from the freezer, adding an additional few minutes to ensure the turkey cooks through. Alternatively, you can boil the potstickers or steam in a steamer basket.

www.fleishigs.com

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

I AM DREAMING OF THE NEW YEAR.

The table is set with my finest china and loved ones are gathered around, eager to taste the sweet honey selection on display. I look at my husband with a smile and say, “This is good.” That scene replays in my mind and makes me hopeful for what awaits. I welcome the New Year with happiness and celebrate this renewal in the best way I know how — by setting a table, creating a menu and making

my home a welcoming space to gather and celebrate. The menu balances tradition with innovation, infusing small surprises into the familiar. Sipping some warm, spiced tea at the end of the meal, I can look at my family and friends gathered around the table with that same smile, think back on the year that passed and be hopeful for the blessings that await. Wishing you a healthy, sweet and happy New Year! Reena

ROSH HASHANA FEAST

Apple & Beet Tuna Sashimi Serves: 8

This is a truly unique, refreshing and festive appetizer. You do need to prepare some components in advance, but once prepared, the dish comes together in minutes.

R E E N A’S W I N E PA I R I N G SU G G E ST I O N :

C H I L L E D G O OS E BAY P I N OT G R I G I O

The cold granita creates a bed for the cured tuna, while the sweet and spicy pomegranate syrup drizzled over the dish harmonizes all the flavors. Be patient — it's worth the effort. 3

(8-ounce) sushi-grade tuna steaks Kosher salt Apple and Lime Granita (recipe follows) Beet and Basil Salad (recipe follows) Spicy Pomegranate Syrup (recipe follows) Fresno pepper, sliced thinly

1. Thinly slice tuna into approximately 20 even slices and arrange on a plate. Sprinkle with salt, then refrigerate, uncovered, while you prepare the rest of the dish. 2. Plate a small mound of the beet salad onto an appetizer plate. Top with a scoop of the granita and a few slices of tuna. 3. Drizzle with pomegranate syrup and garnish with sliced Fresno pepper. Serve immediately.

Apple & Lime Granita Granita is the perfect palate cleanser, dessert or even cocktail. The pairing of the sweet, tart granita with the fresh fish is unexpectedly perfect. Add ¾ cup sugar and 3 cups water to a saucepan, bring to a boil, then simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add the zest of 2 limes, 1 cup fresh lime juice (from about 6-8 limes), ½ cup apple juice and 1-inch knob ginger, grated. Pour into a 9-inch glass dish and let cool for 30 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze. After 2 hours, use a fork to slightly scrape down the frozen edges, then return to the freezer. Repeat this step every hour, until the entire pan crystallizes into an icy, fluffy consistency. 46

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

Beet & Basil Salad Beets are a traditional food eaten on Rosh Hashana. The Hebrew word for beet, selek, meaning “to remove,” symbolizes our hope for the removal of our enemies. Preheat oven to 400°F. Place 2 large beets on a baking sheet lined with 2 sheets of heavy-duty foil. Drizzle 1 tablespoon oil and 1 teaspoon kosher salt over beets and wrap each individually in foil. Cook for 45 minutes to 1 hour (depending on the size of the beets), until fork tender. Once beets are slightly cooled, peel (wearing gloves!) and dice. Combine beets, 2 tablespoons pomegranate seeds, ½-inch knob ginger, grated, zest of ½ lime and 1 tablespoon honey. For best results, refrigerate for 24 hours. Thinly slice 6 fresh basil leaves and garnish immediately before serving.

Spicy Pomegranate Syrup Seed and thinly slice 2 Fresno peppers. Combine ½ cup pomegranate molasses, 1 tablespoon honey and 1 of the sliced peppers in a small bowl. Microwave for 40 seconds. Add remaining sliced pepper to the bowl. Refrigerate, covered, until ready to serve. www.fleishigs.com

ROSH HASHANA FEAST

Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re gonna like dem apples SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

ROSH HASHANA FEAST

The silver that always wins gold. Silver Tip Roast with Caramelized Shallots Serves: 12

If making this dish in advance, let the shallots cool before adding to the roast, then refrigerate until ready to cook. I usually time it so that I can prepare it earlier in the day and cook it about one hour before Yom Tov starts, then let it finish cooking in a 200°F oven until ready to serve. Note: Cooking two small roasts, as opposed to one large one, will result in more even cooking and extremely tender slices of meat. 3 10 2 1 2

tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute shallots, thinly sliced teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper (2-pound) silver tip roasts

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Add butter to a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add shallots, salt and pepper and cook slowly until caramelized, about 20-25 minutes. 2. Place roasts in a large roasting pan and cover with caramelized shallots. 3. Cook for 20 minutes, then lower heat to 200°F and cook for another 2-3 hours. Slice and serve.

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

Roasted Yams Serves: 12

Yams need nothing more than some olive oil (and bay leaves, in this case) to turn them into a deliciously sweet appetizer. Any yam will work for this recipe — Japanese yams, which are white-fleshed, are my favorite, but regular yams/sweet potatoes work wonderfully too. Preheat oven to 425°F. Using a paring knife, make a small slit across the top of 12 baby yams and insert a bay leaf into each one. Drizzle with ¼ cup olive oil and cook on a baking sheet until soft, approximately 35-40 minutes.

Port, Fig and Rosemary Jam Yield: 1⅓ cup

In my opinion, this is the perfect sauce to accompany this feast. It’s sweet and herbaceous with an intense flavor. Drizzled over the roast and yams, it elevates dishes without distracting from the main attractions. Add ⅔ cup fig preserves, ⅔ cup port wine, 1 sprig fresh rosemary and 1 garlic clove to a saucepan. Simmer over medium-low heat for 20 minutes, until it starts to foam a bit. Remove from heat and discard rosemary. Serve warm with additional finely chopped rosemary.

Steamed Haricot Vert with Arugula and Warm Dijon Vinaigrette Serves: 6-12

Haricot vert, otherwise known as French green beans, are thinner and sweeter than the basic variety. Since they are younger and more tender, the ends can be eaten as is, making them a great quick option. 1 4 3 2 1 1 1 ½

pound haricot vert cups baby arugula tablespoons olive oil cloves garlic, minced teaspoon whole grain Dijon mustard teaspoon tarragon vinegar Juice of ½ lemon teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Cook the haricot vert by blanching in boiling water for 2-3 minutes, until bright green. Immediately strain into a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking. Strain once completely cooled. 2. Arrange arugula and haricot vert on a large platter. 3. Add olive oil to a sauté pan over medium heat. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant and golden. Transfer to a bowl or jar and add mustard, vinegar, lemon juice, salt and pepper; whisk until incorporated, then drizzle over arugula and haricot vert.

www.fleishigs.com

ROSH HASHANA FEAST

R E E N Aâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S W I N E PA I R I N G SU G G E ST I O N :

C H AT E AU D E C O R B U G E AU D 20 1 8 B O R D E AUX

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

Find a variety of interesting honey products to display on your table like Savannah Bee's Acacia Honeycomb Jar and honey straws to take the honey tasting custom to new heights. Adding sliced lemons to a plate of apples keeps apples fresh and adds a citrusy punch that complements the apples and honey. HONEY RESOURCE

savannahbee.com

Soup for you! 52

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

ROSH HASHANA FEAST

Seared Snapper with Warm Coconut Broth Serves: 8

Note: Feel free to add the fish back into the pot of soup before ladling into individual bowls. This will result in a melt-in-your mouth texture and will intensify the flavor of the fish. However, it may fall apart slightly.

4-6

3 2 ½ 4 2

tablespoons non-dairy butter substitute Spanish onions, thinly sliced teaspoons ground coriander tablespoon kosher salt cups vegetable broth stalks lemongrass, peeled and roughly chopped tablespoons white miso

1. Add butter to a large pot over mediumlow heat and add onions, coriander and salt. Sauté for 15 minutes, until onions soften. You do not want the onions to caramelize or they will darken the color of the broth, but you want to ensure the onions are tender and soft, so keep an eye on the flame and onions as you stir. 2. Add broth and simmer for 20 minutes. 3. In the meantime, add lemongrass to a mini food processor and process for 20 seconds. Add ½ cup boiling water and process for another 20 seconds. Set aside for 5-10 minutes. This will intensify the aroma and flavor of the lemongrass. Strain,

2 2 8

(14-ounce) cans coconut milk Zest of 2 lemons tablespoons coconut oil (3-ounce) red snapper filets or other firm white fish, such as cod Cilantro and Sesame Gremolata (recipe follows) large carrot, peeled into curls, for garnish

reserving liquid and discarding solids. 4. Remove soup from heat. Using an immersion blender, blend until smooth. 5. Add miso, coconut milk, lemon zest and reserved lemongrass liquid to the soup and blend for 2 minutes. 6. To prepare the fish, add coconut oil to a large Dutch oven over medium heat. Add fish and sear for 2-3 minutes per side. You are not looking for a deep sear, just a soft golden hue. Transfer to a platter. 7. Ladle warm soup into bowls and top with a piece of seared snapper, gremolata and carrot curls.

Cilantro and Sesame Gremolata Yield: 1½ cups

The fresh herbs in the gremolata are an indispensable garnish on top of the warm and silky broth. I love how the toasted sesame oil in the gremolata slowly melts, creating a beautiful presentation and adding depth to the dish. 1 2-3 2 1 2

bunch cilantro, leaves only, chopped tablespoons toasted sesame oil tablespoons chives, minced tablespoon toasted sesame seeds Zest of 1 lemon cloves garlic, minced Maldon salt

Combine all ingredients and serve over soup.

R E E N A’S W I N E PA I R I N G SU G G E ST I O N :

C H I L L E D E LV I W I N E S CAVA B RU T

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

ROSH HASHANA FEAST

Pavlova, pavlova, my mouth is calling you right over. Pavlova with Whipped Cream, Chocolate Ganache and Fresh Fruit Serves: 8

There is always room for dessert! A fresh fruit pavlova is a light way to end the meal and when paired with dark chocolate ganache and whipped cream, it lends itself perfectly for this special occasion. The beauty of a pavlova is that there is no right or wrong way to do it. Remember, it will get covered with whipped cream, chocolate ganache and fresh fruit, so don’t worry about it looking perfect. Note: I recommend using caster sugar, but if you don’t have, just pulse granulated sugar in a food processor until fine. 7 1¾ 1 1½ 1 1

egg whites, at room temperature cups caster sugar tablespoon cornstarch teaspoons vinegar teaspoon vanilla extract Pinch of kosher salt (8-ounce) container non-dairy topping (such as Rich’s Whip) Chocolate ganache (recipe follows) Assorted fresh fruit, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 300°F. 2. Add egg whites to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whisk on medium-low speed until soft, foamy peaks start to form. Add sugar, a few spoonfuls at a time, until

the peaks become glossy, about 10-15 minutes. Scrape down the sides with a spatula to make sure it all mixes evenly. 3. In the meantime, combine cornstarch and vinegar. Increase mixer speed to high and add the vinegar mixture. Once incorporated, add vanilla and salt and whisk for another minute. The mixture will be glossy, thick and stiff. 4. Prepare a baking sheet lined with parchment paper and draw a large circle with a pencil onto the parchment. Think about the cake stand or platter you will like to use to serve it on and adjust the shape accordingly. Flip the paper so the pencil doesn’t touch the pavlova. 5. Scoop the meringue onto the parchment paper and create a rounded mound over the entire circle. Smooth out the edges with a spatula, moving upwards with each motion. 6. Place in the oven, then immediately reduce the heat to 225°F and bake for 1-1½ hours. Turn the oven off and leave the pavlova in to dry out for at least 6 hours and up to overnight. Store in an airtight container until ready to use. 7. Before serving, whip non-dairy topping until stiff peaks form. Place pavlova on a cake stand. Top with dollops of whipped cream, a drizzle of chocolate ganache and fresh fruit.

Chocolate Ganache Heat 1 (8-ounce) container non-dairy topping (such as Rich’s Whip) in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring to a simmer, then remove from heat. Add 12 ounces semisweet chocolate (like Schmerling's) and stir until melted.

Reena Goldberger is an event planner extraordinaire who lives in sunny Miami Beach, FL. Whether she is with her husband and four children or planning an elegant event for a client, Reena always has a smile on her face. Follow Reena’s fabulous projects on Instagram @reenagoldberger or on her website, www.reenagoldberger. com, where she blogs about tips and tricks for celebrating and entertaining at home.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

IT’S HARD TO BELIEVE,

but there was a time in our foodiverse before Instagram. A time before Facebook, Twitter, Snapchat and Tik Tok, hashtags, collabs, boomerangs, reposts, sponsored posts and filters. Before all of that, there was Susie Fishbein — the original, on-realpaper, true kosher influencer. Acclaimed cookbook author and food writer Adeena Sussman chats with kosher cookbook legend Susie Fishbein, who published

nine

cookbooks

between 2003 and 2016. Susie’s books in total have sold close to 500,000 copies and have forever changed the landscape of kosher cuisine. One of Adeena’s first recipe writing gigs was working with Susie on Kosher by Design Lightens Up, which amounted to a big break early on in Adeena’s career, making this feature near and dear to her.

B Y: A D E E N A S U S S M A N

PROFILE

HE YEAR WAS 2003 and kosher cooking was, how shall we say it… a little… boring? The cooking world around us was changing, but kosher culture was still hanging on for dear life to some dated ideas about what a kosher recipe could be, how it should look and what kinds of influences and ingredients it could bring to the forefront. Along came Susie and her earth-shattering, groundbreaking cookbook Kosher by Design. She had burst onto the scene a few years earlier with The Kosher Palette, a cookbook fundraiser that she oversaw for the Joseph Kushner Hebrew Academy in New Jersey, which became a runaway success. It was clear from the get-go that this school teacher and mom of four had a clear point of view — something to say about your Shabbat table and what you should put on it. It was apparent from the first page that Kosher by Design was a different kind of book. It was pretty, had gorgeous photos and within a few weeks (the equivalent of a few hours on the ‘gram or a day on Amazon), it took our world by storm, with a viral-before-viral-existed popularity that was truly unprecedented. You bought it, I bought it, we all bought it!

To date, Kosher by Design alone has sold 88,000 copies – a legacy any cookbook author, kosher or otherwise, would be thrilled with.

AT THE ROOT of it all was Susie, a passionate home cook with a local reputation for delicious, doable food served on gorgeous tablescapes and scrupulously high standards. People loved to come to the Fishbein house for Shabbat because the food tasted good and it looked gorgeous too. At that time, the primary influences were still cookbooks and food television; social media, especially food social media and moreover, kosher food social media, simply did not exist. “There was dial-up Internet and barely anyone had Food Network,” Susie related to me. “The grande dames were Ina Garten and Martha Stewart.” Susie saw Martha Stewart’s Easter table setup, complete with floral arrangements and candles and asked herself, “How can I do that, but make it kosher?” She did it in the pages of her books by reading and learning, consulting with respected chefs and caterers, testing and retesting her recipes and working with a professional florist, food stylists and a photographer to elevate her work. She made sure that each recipe had a photo, something we take for granted today but was way ahead of its time back then. Susie made us aspire to more and she succeeded.

The OG of kosher foodies

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

PROFILE

Susie noted, “It was nothing I had ever seen in kosher books, but it was something I liked to do on my ordinary table. Our job was to make ‘wow’ food and inspire others to bring it to their own tables.” And wow it was. We soon saw “The Susie Effect,” the one that inspired tens of thousands of edible challah napkin rings and two-toned soups (not to mention three-toned gefilte fish), the one that could lay shelves bare in a kosher supermarket or neighborhood, selling out of wonton wrappers or Terra Chips or

PA R

OT O

puff pastry. Yes, there was a lot of puff pastry, especially in the first book. “I did everything but wrap myself in it,” Susie joked. Florists got busier than ever on Fridays because Susie showed us how to decorate our tables to enhance the food we so lovingly prepared for friends and family. A Susie-inspired menu was more than a status symbol — it was a sense of belonging. There she was on The Today Show standing in front of her gorgeous granite countertops, her stovetop adorned with a lovely floral tea kettle, lavender flowers brightening the scene. With her infectious smile, an apparent irresistible drive and passion and a down-to-earth quality I can vouch for personally, she was the perfect ambassador both within her community and far beyond it.

THERE

ARE

NOW

Home saver, food maker, trailblazer.

second-generation cooks raised on the recipes in Susie’s nine books. The series became required reading for anyone making a Jewish home, especially young brides who began to refer to this kosher canon as “The Kallah Shas” (referencing the Talmud). To date, Kosher by Design alone has sold 88,000 copies – a legacy any cookbook author, kosher or otherwise, would be thrilled with. “I just saw myself as doing a service,” said Susie, who has fashioned a new career for herself leading culinary tours around the world (in non COVID-19 times, of course). This “service” she provided inspired the new crop of social media-savvy kosher influencers, a group she praises with her usual deference and grace. “They have surpassed me in their unique, cutting edge approach to recipe development,” she shared. “And the fact that they are often doing it all by themselves is mind-blowing.” I asked Susie what advice she has for anyone seeking a career in food, kosher or otherwise. She told me, “Keep your head down, don’t worry about the noise around you and have hope for success. Have no ego about what you do. If you believe in what you write, post or cook, accept criticism but stay true to what you believe.”

Adeena is a cookbook author, food writer, recipe and product developer and consultant based in Tel Aviv. When she’s not roaming the Carmel Market steps from her apartment, you can find her in her kitchen whipping up new recipes and writing projects. Her bestselling Israeli cookbook, Sababa: Fresh, Sunny Flavors From My Israeli Kitchen, was released by Penguin/Avery books on September 3, 2019 and was featured in the August 2019 issue of Fleishigs Magazine. Along with coauthoring eleven cookbooks and writing Short Stack Editions' Tahini, she’s written about Israeli cooking, food and culture for Food & Wine, The Wall Street Journal, Travel & Leisure, Conde Nast Traveler, Epicurious and many others.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

PROFILE

The following are classic Kosher by Design recipes that are some of Susie Fishbein’s personal favorites, reprinted with permission from her various cookbooks.

Purple Cabbage Salad Serves: 8-10

This salad also makes a wonderful side dish. It is a beautiful combination of colors and textures. Many men tell me they don’t like fruit on their salad, but for some reason this salad is an exception to that rule.

⅓ ⅓ 3

1-2

ounces shredded purple cabbage cup chopped scallions cup pine nuts carrots, julienned or 1 (8-ounce) bag shredded carrots (11-ounce) can mandarin oranges (reserve juice) handfuls dried cranberries (can be the sweetened kind)

DRESSING

¼ ¼ ½ ¼ 1 ½ 1

2 2 4-5

SALAD

cup brown sugar cup red or white wine vinegar teaspoon freshly ground black pepper teaspoon salt tablespoon reserved mandarin orange juice cup vegetable oil vegetable or parve chicken flavor bouillon cube or 1 teaspoon dried consomme powder teaspoon garlic powder

1. Place the cabbage, scallions, pine nuts, carrots, oranges, and cranberries into a large Ziploc bag. Set aside. 2. In a jar or cruet, mix the brown sugar, vinegar, pepper, salt, reserved orange juice, oil, bouillon cube and garlic powder. Close and shake until thoroughly mixed. 3. Pour over the salad. Refrigerate to let the flavors mix for at least 1 hour. Can prepare early in the day.

Salmon Primavera Yield: 8-10 servings

¼ 2 2

pin bones removed Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Honey mustard (I really like Honeycup® brand) small zucchini, with skin, very thinly sliced small yellow squash, with skin, very thinly sliced firm Roma or plum tomatoes, very thinly sliced cup unflavored breadcrumbs or panko tablespoons chopped fresh dill tablespoons olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 375˚F. Season the salmon filets with salt and pepper. Spread an even thick coating of the mustard all over the salmon. 2. Place the salmon on a parchment or foil lined baking sheet. Place the fish horizontally in front of you. Starting at the left end of the filet, lay a column of overlapping slices of the zucchini. On the next row lay a column of overlapping slices of the squash — they should be overlapping the zucchini a bit as well. On the next row, lay a column of overlapping slices of tomatoes — they should slightly overlap on the squash. Begin again with the zucchini, followed by the squash and finally the tomato. Continue in this fashion until the whole filet is covered. 3. In a small bowl, mix the breadcrumbs, dill and olive oil. Sprinkle over the top of the vegetables. 4. Cook for 30-35 minutes. Remove one of the vegetables in the thickest part of the filet and test to make sure the fish is done, then cover it back up with the vegetables. 5. Serve hot or at room temperature. Can be refrigerated overnight and brought to room temperature the next day.

Cream of Sweet Potato Soup with Maple Roasted Pecans Serves: 8-10

A mandoline (hand-held is fine) is a must for paper thin slices. Use a steel-core glove to protect your hands. Make sure your squash and tomatoes have similar diameters. 2½-3 pounds salmon filet, with skin and 62

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

I dropped a container off at my neighbor Ed David’s house and got the following message from him on my answering machine. “Hi, it’s Ed, now you’re just showing off.” Nothing more to say except try this recipe.

MAPLE ROASTED PECANS

1 1

tablespoons margarine (or margarine substitute) cup chopped pecans tablespoon pure maple syrup (not pancake syrup)

CREAM OF SWEET POTATO SOUP

1 1 1

1 1 1½

6 ½ 1 ¼ 1

tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil stalk celery, chopped leek, white and pale green parts only, chopped large shallot, chopped medium onion, chopped pounds sweet potatoes, about 3 medium or 2 large, peeled and cut into small chunks cups chicken stock or vegetable stock, divided cup canned pumpkin purée (not pumpkin pie filling) teaspoon ground cinnamon Pinch of nutmeg teaspoon kosher salt cup soy milk or light cream

1. Prepare the pecans: In a small frying pan over medium-low heat, melt the margarine. Add the pecans and maple syrup. Cook, stirring for 4-5 minutes, until roasted. Transfer to a paper towel. The pecans can be made two days in advance and kept in an airtight container. 2. Prepare the soup: In a large pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Sauté the celery, leek, shallot and onion until soft and shiny, about 4-6 minutes. Add the sweet potatoes and sauté for 2 minutes longer. 3. Add 4 cups of the stock and bring to a boil. 4. Turn down to a simmer and cook covered for 20-25 minutes, until sweet potatoes are soft. Add in the pumpkin, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. 5. Transfer to a blender or food processor and process until smooth. You can also use an immersion blender right in the pot and purée for a full 3 minutes. Add in remaining 2 cups of stock and soy milk or light cream. Purée for 1 minute and heat through. 6. Ladle the soup into bowls. Serve with a small handful of Maple Roasted Pecans in the center of each bowl.

PROFILE

Cauliﬂower “Popcorn” Serves: 8

You will pop these gorgeous golden low carb-friendly treats into your mouth like popcorn. The simple high-heat roasting method brings out the natural sugars of the vegetable and the spice combination works great in both flavor and color. Separate the cauliflower over your parchment-lined sheets to catch all the tiny pieces that break off. These are the parts that get almost burnt and are my personal favorites! 1 2 -¼ ½ ½ ¼ ¼ 6-8 2

teaspoon fine sea salt teaspoons sugar teaspoon ground turmeric teaspoon paprika teaspoon onion powder teaspoon garlic powder tablespoons olive oil heads cauliflower, seperated into medium-sized florets, stems discarded

1. Preheat oven to 450˚F. Line a jelly-roll pan or baking sheet with parchment paper. 2. In a large bowl, combine the salt, sugar, turmeric, paprika, onion powder, garlic powder and oil. Add cauliflower florets and toss to evenly coat. 3. Place in a single layer onto the prepared sheet. 4. Roast, uncovered, for 30–35 minutes, until the largest pieces can be pierced with a fork. If the tops are starting to get too brown, toss the cauliflower during the cooking process.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

THE MOTHER OF J E W I S H M E AT

PROFILE

Sweet & Sour Brisket Serves: 12

So simple yet so delicious, this dish is perfect when you have no time to fuss in the kitchen.

1 1 1

(32-ounce) jar sauerkraut (5-pound) beef brisket (28-ounce) can whole, peeled tomatoes (16-ounce) box dark brown sugar

1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. Pour the sauerkraut over the brisket. Add the tomatoes with their liquid. Sprinkle with brown sugar. 2. Cover with foil and bake for 3 hours.

Jewel-Toned Orzo Serves: 8-10

2 2 1

8 ½ ¼ ¼ 1 1 1½

tablespoons margarine (or margarine substitute) large onions, cut into ¼-inch dice green bell pepper, seeded and cut into ¼-inch dice yellow bell pepper, seeded and cut into ¼-inch dice ounces fresh sliced mushrooms cup sweetened dried cranberries teaspoon fine sea salt teaspoon ground white pepper tablespoon canola oil (16-ounce) box orzo teaspoons chicken bouillon powder (can be parve)

1. In a large pan, over medium heat, melt the margarine. Add the onions, peppers, mushrooms and cranberries. Sauté until softened, about 6-8 minutes, making sure not to let the vegetables brown or burn. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside. 2. Meanwhile, in a medium pot, heat the oil. Add the orzo and toast until golden, stirring often. It will be all different shades of brown and have a nutty aroma. Add boiling water to cover by a few inches; add the bouillon powder. Cook until the orzo is al denté, about 8-9 minutes. If the water boils out and the orzo is still too hard, add more hot water ½ cup at a time, stirring to make sure the orzo is not sticking to the bottom of the pot, until orzo is done and water has evaporated. 3. Combine the vegetables with the orzo. Serve hot or at room temperature.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

PROFILE

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

PROFILE

Apple Crunch Galette Serves: 10-12

To tell you the truth, I am awful at rolling out pie dough. I know all the techniques in my head, but somehow they don’t transfer well to my rolling pin. Necessity being the mother of invention, I bring you the galette, the free form, no top crust, no lattice work needed, just the yummiest, flakiest, crunchiest, easiest apple pie you will ever make.

CRUST

2½ 1¼ 2 8

cups all-purpose flour teaspoons kosher salt tablespoons sugar tablespoons margarine or unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 7 pieces tablespoons pure vegetable shortening, cut into 7 pieces

4-4½ tablespoons ice water CRUNCH

¾ ¾ ½ 6

cup all-purpose flour cup dark brown sugar cup old-fashioned oats (not quick cooking or instant) tablespoons margarine or butter, melted

APPLE FILLING

3 2 ½ 3 1 ⅛ 3 1

McIntosh or Braeburn apples Granny Smith apples cup sugar tablespoons all-purpose flour teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon kosher salt tablespoons apricot preserves egg yolk, beaten with 1 teaspoon water

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough or batter hook or in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade, mix the flour, salt and sugar. Cut the margarine or butter and shortening into the flour and mix until mixture resembles baby peas. Sprinkle the water over the dough, 1 tablespoon at a time, and blend in with the mixer or with a fork. Repeat until the dough is moist enough to come together. Gather the dough and knead just to get it into a ball. Flatten the ball slightly and shape into a disc. Wrap in parchment or plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes in the refrigerator. 2. Prepare the crunch topping. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, brown sugar, oats and margarine or butter. Stir to combine. Set aside. 3. Prepare the apple filling. Peel, seed and slice the apples. In a large bowl, combine the sugar, flour, cinnamon and salt. Add the apple slices and toss to coat. 4. Preheat oven to 375˚F. Remove dough from refrigerator. On a lightly floured piece of parchment paper, roll dough into

a large (14-15 inch) circle. Leaving a 3-4inch border, brush the apricot preserves over the center of the dough. Place 3⁄4 of the crunchy oat mixture over the apricot, still leaving the border of dough uncovered. Starting at the outer edge of the apricot and working your way towards the center, lay the apple slices in concentric circles, going around and adding layers until all of the apples are used. Sprinkle remaining crunch topping over the apples. Using the parchment to help, fold the dough border over the apples, turning the galette as needed. The dough will cover 2-3 inches of the filling. Carefully peel back parchment and slide the parchment with the galette onto a rimless baking sheet. Brush the exposed dough with the beaten egg yolk. 5. Bake for 25 minutes. Remove from oven and carefully cover the dough with foil to prevent burning. Return to oven and bake for 30 minutes longer. The galette is great served warm or at room temperature with a scoop of ice cream or caramelflavored ice cream topping.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

CULINARY SCHOOL

MENU S U G G E S T I O N S

D I N N E R

FIRST COURSE

Carrot Ginger Soup ENTRÉE

Whole Roasted Chicken with Cauliflower Au Gratin DESSERT given should be as satisfying as serving it. When Duck Fat Financier with Riesling me the opportunity to conceptualizing a new dish or creating a Peach Compote stand back and reset. menu, I like to follow a few rules: Most of the clients to Is there a demand for this kind of dish? D I N N E R 2 whom I offer consulting Just because I think a simple salad of spring services have either shut FIRST COURSE: greens and vinaigrette is delicious doesn’t or slowed down, which Simple Green Salad mean that people want to eat it. It’s different caused me to think for everyone, so know your audience. ENTRÉE about food in a new way. Chicken Pot Pie Does it make sense? I love duck sauce, but Whereas I used to focus on prime rib and short duck sauce doesn’t belong in every dish. DESSERT rib, my focus has shifted to more accessible Neither do pickled mustard seeds or miso. Riesling Peach Compote foods or what I dubbed, “zero trend cooking.” Is it delicious? Not all great things are We tend to cook based on trends that often D I N N E R 3 delicious. Some are a slow burn of flavor fizzle out. With this menu, I tried to focus on that take time to appreciate. Polarizing humble ingredients like chicken and the many FIRST COURSE ingredients, like fennel, raw fish, anchovies, ways to prepare it, alongside simple, impactful Parsnip Bisque with Beef Fry fancy charcuterie or liver may add a gourmet and versatile vegetable sides. ENTRÉE touch, but will not be appreciated by all your For the past 20 years I’ve watched the Honey Harissa Chicken Breast guests. If I’m cooking a meal at home, I’m firsthand transformation of the kosher food with Carrot Ginger Purée and Gochujang Maple Acorn Squash looking for flavor over innovation. industry. With social media and the internet, we Let’s talk about the composition of a dish have access to more recipes, ideas and flavors — main, side dish, sauce. This can be a plate than ever before. With every new or renewed or a one pot dish, the principle still applies. technique introduced in the blogosphere, we Start with what you want to cook. Pick something, are inundated with hundreds, if not thousands, of half-cooked ideas and recipes that take away from what really matters anything! Is a potato the main course? Cool. How do you want — a delicious meal shared with friends and family, which is to serve the potato? Crispy? French fries? Cool. Then think about what might be a good counterpoint — something acidic relevant now more than ever. What defines a meal is relative, but “delicious” is arguably to cut through the dense richness. Ketchup. Wait, ketchup is a relative and subjective concept. Not everyone wants their also a sauce, so we just did a 2-for-1. Once you have your menu meats and vegetables to be fermented. To me, cooking a meal conceptualized, it's time to start cooking!

OV I D - 1 9

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

HAS

www.fleishigs.com

CULINARY SCHOOL

Carrot Ginger Purée Yield: 4 cups

Carrot and ginger is such a classic combination. Plus, the extra-virgin olive oil brings out the sweetness of the carrots. 1 6 1 1

1 ¼

tablespoon oil large carrots, sliced parsnip, peeled and sliced tablespoon freshly grated ginger or 3 frozen ginger cubes (like Dorot) bay leaf cup extra-virgin olive oil

1. Add oil to a pot over medium-high heat. Add carrots and parsnips and sauté for about 5 minutes. Add ginger and bay leaf. 2. Add water to just cover the vegetables. Bring to a boil, then simmer until tender, about 25 minutes. 3. Transfer to a high-powered blender and purée with extra-virgin olive oil, working in batches if necessary.

MAKE IT A BISQUE: Add purée to a pot with 1-2 cups of water. Heat through and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add additional water to reach desired consistency. Serve with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and toasted sesame seeds.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

CULINARY SCHOOL

Cauliflower Au Gratin Serves: 8

Note: Salt draws out the moisture in the cauliflower, so season it only once it comes out of the oven. 3 3 1 ⅓ 3 2

heads cauliflower, cut into florets tablespoons olive oil, divided teaspoon kosher salt Vegan Cauliflower Cheese Sauce (recipe follows) cup panko breadcrumbs tablespoons nutritional yeast tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Toss cauliflower with 1 tablespoon oil on a baking sheet and roast for 30 minutes, then season with salt. 2. Mix cauliflower with vegan cheese sauce to coat. Transfer to a casserole dish. 3. Combine panko and nutritional yeast and sprinkle over gratin. 4. Cook for 15 minutes, until golden.

Vegan Cauliflower Cheese Sauce Yield: 4 cups

Nutritional yeast has been around for decades and is an excellent way to add a cheesy flavor without the dairy. Toasting it is a great way of coaxing out extra flavor. 3 4

tablespoons nutritional yeast cups Cauliflower Purée (page 78) Kosher salt, to taste

1. Add nutritional yeast to a dry sauté pan over medium-high heat and dry toast for 3-5 minutes, until fragrant. 2. Add purée and toasted nutritional yeast to a blender and blend until smooth. Season with salt, to taste.

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

CULINARY SCHOOL

Perfect Roast Chicken Serves: 8

When I go back to basics, I am always drawn to chicken. It is so versatile, affordable, delicious and can be used for so many different things. It’s also a no-waste ingredient — use the carcasses to make Pressure Cooker Chicken Stock (page 79). Chef’s Tip: Make sure to wait until the oven is up to temperature before putting the chicken in. A scorching hot oven will yield a crispier, juicier chicken. 2

2 1

(3-pound) chickens, at room temperature tablespoon garlic oil from Microwave Garlic Confit (page 78) tablespoons kosher salt tablespoon freshly ground black pepper Fresh thyme, stripped

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Pat chicken dry with paper towels. 2. Coat chickens with oil and season with salt, pepper and thyme leaves. 3. Place chickens in cast iron skillets or a 9x13-inch metal roasting pan and roast until the juices run clear, about 60 minutes.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

CULINARY SCHOOL

Basic Parsnip Purée Yield: 2 cups

Parsnip delivers a richness to a purée unlike any other vegetable. It’s inexpensive yet truly brings the flavor. Note: In order to achieve the ideal consistency, you need to use a high powered blender. Without one, your purée will not be as smooth and creamy. ¼ 4 1 4

cup canola oil, divided parsnips, peeled and sliced teaspoon kosher salt cups chicken broth or water

1. Add 1 tablespoon oil to a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add parsnips and salt and sauté for 1-2 minutes. 2. Add broth or water to just cover the parsnips. Bring to a boil, then simmer until tender, approximately 30 minutes. 3. Transfer to a high-powered blender and purée with remaining canola oil, working in

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

batches if necessary. MAKE IT A BISQUE: Add purée to a pot with

1-2 cups of water. Heat through and season with salt and pepper to taste. Add additional water to reach desired consistency. Serve with chopped chives and cooked beef fry.

Honey Harissa Chicken Serves: 4

2 4 1

tablespoons canola oil boneless, skin-on chicken breasts cup Honey Harissa Sauce (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Heat oil in a cast iron or heavy-bottomed pan over mediumhigh heat. Add chicken, skin side down, and cook for 4 minutes on one side and 3 minutes on the other. 2. Transfer chicken to a 9x13-inch pan and spoon Honey Harissa Sauce over chicken. 3. Cook for 15 minutes, until chicken is cooked through.

Honey Harissa Sauce Yield: 2½ cups

This marinade can be used on almost everything throughout yom tov. You may have some extra after glazing your chicken, which you can use to glaze salmon, add to braised brisket or in a meatball sauce. Add 1¼ cups harissa and 1 cup honey to a saucepan and bring to a boil. Add 1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger and simmer for 5-8 minutes.

Carrot Tahini Purée Yield: 2½ cups

2 ½ 1

cups Carrot Ginger Purée (page 73) cup tahini Juice of 1 lemon teaspoon cumin

tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Blend all ingredients until smooth.

www.fleishigs.com

CULINARY SCHOOL

Gochujang Maple Acorn Squash Serves: 8-10

Chef’s Tip: Cut acorn squash on the ridges for more uniform slices. 4 3 1 ¼

acorn squash, halved and seeded tablespoons canola oil teaspoon kosher salt cup prepared Gochujang Maple Sauce (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Slice acorn squash and toss with oil and salt. 2. Arrange in a single layer on 2 baking sheets and cook for 25 minutes, then toss with sauce and roast for an additional 10-15 minutes.

Gochujang Maple Sauce Yield: 1½ cups

as ways to get a rich flavor profile, quickly. I don’t necessarily limit myself to the cuisines they originate from. For instance, gochujang, a fermented hot pepper paste, doesn’t have to pair only with Asian recipes. A simple mix with maple syrup and lime creates an incredible glaze that brings something unique to simple chicken. Combine 1 cup gochujang, ⅔ cup maple syrup and the zest of 1 lime.

I think of specialty ingredients like tahini, gochujang and harissa not as trendy, but

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

CULINARY SCHOOL

Simple Roasted Chicken Thighs

Cauliflower Purée

Microwave Garlic Confit

Serves: 4

Yield: 6 cups

Yield: 2 cups

I recommend using the oil from the Microwave Garlic Confit here for extra flavor.

Place 1 pound peeled garlic cloves in a microwave safe container and cover with oil. Microwave for 5-7 minutes or until cloves are soft and tender.

4 3 1 4

skin-on boneless chicken thighs tablespoons oil from Microwave Garlic Confit (recipe follows) teaspoon kosher salt sprigs fresh thyme

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Place chicken in a loaf pan. 2. Brush with oil and season with salt. Place a thyme sprig on top of each chicken thigh. Roast for 35 minutes. 78

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

3 3 3 6

heads cauliflower, cut into florets cloves garlic tablespoons canola oil cloves Microwave Garlic Confit (recipe follows) Kosher salt, to taste

1. Place cauliflower and raw garlic into a pot. Add water to just cover the cauliflower. Bring to a boil, then simmer until soft, about 25 minutes. 2. Drain, then transfer cauliflower to a high-powered blender with canola oil and roasted garlic. Purée, working in batches if necessary. Season with salt to taste.

www.fleishigs.com

CULINARY SCHOOL

Chicken Pot Pie Serves: 8

There is nothing more comforting than chicken pot pie. This version is elevated with parsnip purée, which acts as the roux, imparting an amazing creamy quality to the pot pie. 2 2 1 2 2 2 1 4 2 1 1

tablespoons oil onions, diced celery root, peeled and diced carrots, diced parsnips, peeled and diced sprigs thyme, stripped bay leaf cups chicken broth cups Parsnip Purée (page 76) (12-ounce) package frozen peas Perfect Roast Chicken, shredded package (2 sheets) puff pastry dough 1 egg ½ teaspoon kosher salt Chopped chives, for garnish 1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add onions, celery root, carrots and parsnips. Sauté until softened and fragrant, about 5-7 minutes. 2. Add thyme leaves, bay leaf, broth and purée and stir to combine. Add peas and chicken. Transfer to a 9x13-inch baking dish. 3. Cut puff pastry into small squares and place on top of the chicken pot pie, overlapping like shingles. 4. Beat egg with 1 teaspoon water with salt. Brush over puff pastry. Cook for 25 minutes, until golden brown. 5. Garnish with chopped chives.

Pressure Cooker Chicken Stock Yield: 8 cups strained stock

1 2

Reserved vegetable peels (such as carrots and parsnips) onion, skin intact, quartered pounds chicken bones or parts

Place vegetable peels, onion and chicken parts into the bowl or a pressure cooker. Cover with water and cook for 90 minutes on high pressure. Alternatively, place ingredients in a stock pot and add enough water to cover. Cover and bring to a boil, then simmer for 8-12 hours. SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

CULINARY SCHOOL

Duck Fat Financier Serves: 8

The texture of this cake is extremely moist, thanks to the duck fat, but without the duck flavor. The recipe is in grams, which will yield the best results. Chef’s Tip: When using a vanilla bean, split the bean vertically down the middle and scrape out the seeds using the blade of a paring knife. 2

(4-ounce) jars duck fat, such as Pelleh 131 grams all-purpose flour 131 grams almond flour 5 grams baking powder 355 grams confectioners’ sugar Zest of 1 orange Zest of 1 lemon 58 grams egg whites 3 (from approximately 11 eggs) 80

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

30 1

grams honey vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped (or 1 teaspoon vanilla extract)

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a 9-inch round cake pan with parchment paper and grease. Set aside. 2. Heat duck fat in a saucepan over medium heat to melt. Let come to room temperature. 3. Combine flour, almond flour, baking powder, confectioners’ sugar, orange zest and lemon zest. Add egg whites and whisk until smooth. Add duck fat, honey and vanilla bean seeds; mix until fully incorporated. 4. Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake for 40 minutes. Serve with Riesling Peach Compote.

Riesling Peach Compote Serves: 8

This compote is very versatile. Stone fruits like peaches and plums break down quickly, but feel free to use apples or pears — just cook longer until fork tender. Frozen fruit works wonderfully as well, especially in the fall when stone fruit is not necessarily in season. Combine 1 bottle Riesling or any semi-sweet white wine, ¼ cup sugar, 2 tablespoons honey, pinch of saffron threads, scraped seeds of 1 vanilla bean pod (add the pod as well) and the zest of 1 lemon in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 5 minutes, until sugar dissolves. Add 5 sliced peaches and cook for an additional 10 minutes, until slightly thickened. www.fleishigs.com

718.840.3909 COMPLIMENTSPLATTERS.COM

mannsales.co

SMART PEOPLE BRING SPREADSHEETS. SMARTER PEOPLE BRING COMPLIMENTS.

BY CHANA ZELDA WEISS RECIPES BY HESHY JAY

SUKKOS FEAST

OR MOST PEOPLE , executing a flawless holiday meal includes weeks of menu planning, shopping lists and spreadsheets. Heshy Jay, the innovative event designer of Scoop & Co. Couture Events, is not most people. When we arrive at his modern Brooklyn home, Heshy is rifling through the delivery of fresh produce and various cuts of meat and fish, discarding some old ideas and adding new ones. Heshy has a long to-do list ahead of him, but you would never know it, as he chats casually while squaring off perfect planks of potatoes to roast. “It’s the easiest way to make something simple look super gourmet,” he comments, fanning the potatoes out like perfect dominoes. Heshy is full of little tips and tricks, all engineered to produce elegant results with minimal effort. He starts every long day of cooking by finely dicing a few red onions and a bunch of garlic cloves to be kept in small bowls on the counter to easily add a boost of flavor to any dish. Heshy sets a few eggplants over the flame to char, then rummages through the fridge to find a

good sauce to brush over the smoked salmon for a new take on salmon jerky, before settling on a jar of Honeycup mustard mixed with some Frank’s hot sauce and a splash of orange juice. The doorbell rings — it’s a delivery of fresh microgreens, overnighted from a farm in California. Heshy doesn’t know how he’ll be using them yet, but he spreads them out and tastes a little of each to get a feel for the unique flavors. There may not be a written to-do list, but Heshy runs through his menu out loud, mentally ticking off what has been done so far and what’s next. The marrow bones and roasted potatoes need some time to cook, so he brushes both with the same mixture of olive oil and spices and pops them in the oven. Turning back to the fish course, Heshy finely dices fresh raw tuna and salmon, imagining a Napoleon-like tartare, stacked with paper-thin parchment crackers. He adds a handful of diced red onion to each, followed by a bright, citrusy marinade for the salmon and an Asian-inspired one for the tuna.

He tastes a bite of each, adds another squeeze of lime and nods in approval. Moving on to the meat course, Heshy improvises with a brush of wasabi mayo on each lamb chop before wrapping them in beef bacon. The marrow bones and potatoes come out, the lamb chops go in. Things are starting to feel a little hectic, but Heshy’s demeanor stays unruffled. “It’s all about compartmentalizing everything in my head,” he says, when asked how he manages it all without getting overwhelmed. The kofta are quickly shaped out of pre-formed sliders, then seared in the same cast iron grill pan (a must for every kitchen) as the Bissli-coated oyster steak — all tricks he’s picked up to help speed up the process. Heshy might be working on the fly, but it’s with a purposeful vision of how it will all tie together in the end. That creative vision translates into a lavishly set table, the rich purple tablecloth contrasting elegant matte black stemware and delicate

B e a u t y

a n d t h e f e a s t 84

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

Using parchment crackers as the crunch factor and layering element to this fish tartare dish is one of the many genius tips Heshy shares.

butterfly-adorned dishes. The striking black branch-like centerpiece is adorned with butterflies (you can spray paint your own branches to mimic this look) and the water bottles are wrapped in clear butterfly-printed paper from Love Paperie for a custom look. It’s almost time to wrap up the shoot and Heshy hasn't even started on dessert yet. “Improvising is all about using what you have on hand,” he says, as he artfully crumbles store-bought cake onto a dessert plate, interspersed with dollops of whipped cream and homemade fruit compote. “Even if you didn’t plan a fancy dessert, if you have some biscotti, pound cake, chocolate pudding, lemon curd or anything else, you can make it look gourmet.” There is no greater testimony than the finished results — with a final flourish, the master of something-from-nothing finishes his restaurant-worthy dessert with a sprinkle of pomegranate seeds and it is clear that he has achieved exactly that.

Tuna & Salmon Tartare Napoleon Serves: 4

The parchment crackers create a crunchy element to this dynamic fish dish while simultaneously adding presentation value. TUNA TARTARE

SALMON TARTARE

2 1-2 1-2

ounces sushi-grade tuna, finely diced cup diced red onion tablespoons minced chives tablespoon sweet soy sauce (such as Kikkoman) teaspoons rice vinegar teaspoons toasted sesame oil teaspoons olive oil

Parchment crackers (such as Tuscanini) Guacamole (recipe follows)

⅓ 2 1

⅓ ¼ 2 1 ½ ¼

ounces sushi-grade salmon, finely diced cup diced red onion cup diced mango tablespoons minced fresh dill Juice of ½ lime teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon garlic powder teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Combine tuna with red onion and chives. Dress with sweet soy sauce, rice vinegar, sesame oil and olive oil and toss gently to coat. 2. Combine salmon with red onion, mango and dill. Dress with lime juice, salt, garlic powder and pepper and toss gently to coat. 3. To serve, layer parchment crackers with a layer of tuna tartare and a layer of salmon tartare. Top with guacamole. Serve immediately with spicy mayo.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

SUKKOS FEAST

Sea Bass Sliders Serves: 6

Sea bass is a pricey cut of fish, but a little bit goes a long way when served in a slider. 2 2 2 6

(6-ounce) sea bass filets teaspoons spice rub of choice tablespoons olive oil Juice of 1 lime slider buns Tomato Salad (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Rub sea bass with spice rub, then drizzle with oil and lime juice. 2. Cook for 20 minutes, until opaque, then flake into large chunks. Serve on slider buns with Tomato Salad.

Everything Seared Tuna Sliders Serves: 6

Sesame crusted seared tuna is always a hit, but using everything bagel seasoning takes it over the top. 2 ¼ ½ 6

(8-ounce) tuna steaks cup spicy mayo cup everything bagel seasoning Oil, for searing slider buns Rainbow Cabbage Slaw (recipe follows)

1. Coat tuna generously with spicy mayo. Pour everything bagel seasoning onto a shallow plate and press tuna steaks into spice mix to coat all sides. 2. Heat a thin layer of oil in a large sauté pan. Sear tuna for 45-60 seconds per side for rare (cook longer based on preferred doneness). Let cool, then slice. Serve on slider buns with Rainbow Cabbage Slaw.

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

SUKKOS FEAST

Three from the sea

Salmon Jerky Sliders Serves: 6

This unique take on a jerky was so addictive and easy to prepare. It was inspired by Heshy's good friend Zak Stern of Miami's Zak the Baker. We recommend using thick-cut smoked salmon, if you can find it, but any variety will do.

¼ 2 1 6

(8-ounce) package sliced smoked salmon cup honey mustard tablespoons orange juice tablespoon Frank’s hot sauce slider buns Guacamole (recipe follows)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Spread smoked salmon on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. 2. Combine honey mustard, orange juice and hot sauce and brush over salmon. 3. Cook for 1 hour, flipping halfway or until edges are crispy. Serve on slider buns with guacamole.

Guacamole Mash 1 ripe avocado with ¼ cup diced red onion, 2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro, the juice of 1 lime, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and ½ teaspoon garlic powder.

Tomato Salad Yield: 2 cups

Combine 1 pint chopped cherry tomatoes, ¼ cup diced red onion, 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon rice vinegar, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper and ½ teaspoon garlic powder. Let sit for at least 10 minutes to marinate.

Rainbow Cabbage Slaw Yield: 3 cups

Combine ½ head shredded red cabbage, 1 diced red or orange bell pepper, 1 diced green bell pepper, ⅓ cup diced red onion, 2 tablespoons minced fresh mint, ¼ cup olive oil, the juice of 1 lime, 1 tablespoon rice vinegar, 1 tablespoon honey, 1 teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Let sit for at least 10 minutes before serving. SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

SUKKOS FEAST

Crispy Potatoes There is nothing simpler than the basic potato. For a dramatic presentation, fan each potato out onto a baking sheet and roast, then transfer to individual plates for serving. Trim edges of 1 pound peeled Yukon Gold potatoes to form even rectangles. Slice into planks of even thickness, then shingle each potato on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Combine ¼ cup oil, 2 teaspoons kosher salt, 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, 1 teaspoon smoked paprika and 1 teaspoon garlic powder and brush mixture onto potatoes. Cook at 375°F for 1 hour or until golden brown and crispy.

Crusted Oyster Steak with Crispy Potatoes Serves: 4

2 1 1 2-3 2 2

(1-pound) oyster steaks teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoons mayonnaise (2½-ounce) bags crunchy BBQ snack (like Bissli), finely crushed tablespoons oil Roasted Mushrooms (recipe follows) Crispy Potatoes (recipe follows)

1. Season steaks with salt and pepper, then thinly brush all sides with mayonnaise. Pour Bissli crumbs onto a shallow plate, then press steaks into crumbs to coat all over. 2. Add oil to a cast iron grill pan or sauté pan over high heat. Sear steaks for 3-4 minutes per side. Let rest before slicing. Serve with Roasted Mushrooms and Crispy Potatoes.

Roasted Mushrooms Toss 1½ cups assorted mushrooms with 1 tablespoon oil and ½ teaspoon kosher salt. Arrange on a baking sheet in a single layer and roast at 400°F for 20 minutes.

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

SUKKOS FEAST

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

SUKKOS FEAST

Seared Duck Breast with Carrot Ginger Purée Serves: 2-4

Frozen fruit works perfectly here if fresh mangoes and plums are hard to find. Substitute apples for a more seasonal flavor profile. 2 2 1 1 ½

skin-on duck breasts teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoon oil, for searing cup diced red onion

½ ½ 2 ¼

cup diced mango cup diced plums tablespoons fig jam cup triple sec or brandy Carrot Ginger Purée (page 73, for serving

1. Using a very sharp knife, score duck skin diagonally or in a criss-cross pattern, until almost all the way through the skin but not reaching the flesh. Season generously with salt and pepper on both sides. 2. Add oil to a cast iron grill pan or sauté pan over high heat. Sear duck breast, skin side down, for about 7 minutes or until crispy. Flip and continue to cook for a few minutes more, until just cooked through. Set duck breasts aside, leaving rendered duck fat behind. 3. Add red onion and fruit to the rendered duck fat and sauté for 5 minutes, until softened. Lower heat, add fig jam and simmer for 10-15 minutes. 4. Return duck breasts to the pan and add triple sec or brandy and cook for just a few minutes more. Serve sliced duck breasts with sauce and carrot purée.

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

Beef Tartare Marrow Boats Serves: 8

Marrow bones are typically sold as large pieces, but ask the butcher to halve them to make great vessels for this beef tartare. ROASTED MARROW BONES

4-8 ¼ 2 1 1 1

marrow bone halves cup olive oil teaspoons salt teaspoon black pepper teaspoon paprika teaspoon garlic powder

BEEF TARTARE

12 1

¼ 3 2 2 1 1 1

ounces oyster steak, finely diced package beef fry, broiled until crispy, chopped cup diced red onion tablespoons diced Israeli pickles cloves garlic, minced tablespoons mustard tablespoon truffle oil tablespoon olive oil egg yolk Microgreens and crackers or toast, for serving

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Arrange marrow bones on baking sheet, cut side up. Combine oil, salt, pepper, paprika and garlic powder and brush onto marrow bones. Roast for 1 hour, then let cool. 2. In a large bowl, combine diced steak, beef fry, red onion, pickles, garlic, mustard, truffle oil, olive oil and egg yolk. 3. Scoop marrow out of bones and add as much as desired to the beef tartare. Mix to combine, then add into roasted marrow bones. Garnish with microgreens and serve with crackers or toast.

Lamb Kofta with Charred Eggplant and Cashew Milk Tahini Serves: 8

Feel free to use ground beef or chicken in place of lamb or for a gourmet presentation, use all three and serve as a trio. Using preformed sliders is a great shortcut. 1 pound ground lamb 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more for serving 1 tablespoon finely minced cilantro, parsley or chives 2 tablespoons oil Charred Eggplant (recipe follows) Cashew Tahini (recipe follows) 1. Form meat into small football-shaped kofta. Season with salt and pepper, then press herbs into the top of the kofta. 2. Add oil to a cast iron grill pan or sauté pan over high heat. Sear kofta for 4-5 minutes per side or until cooked through. Serve over charred eggplant and top with a drizzle of cashew tahini and additional freshly ground black pepper.

Charred Eggplant Char 4 mini eggplants over an open flame, turning occasionally, until fully charred, about 6 minutes per side. Alternatively, you can wrap eggplant in foil and oven roast at 500°F for 20 minutes. Once cooled, halve for serving.

Cashew Milk Tahini Using cashew milk in homemade tahini imparts a wonderful flavor, as opposed to just using water. Try any nut milk, just make sure it’s unsweetened. Blend ¼ cup tahini, juice of ½ lemon, 3-4 tablespoons unsweetened cashew milk, 1 clove minced garlic, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Thin with additional cashew milk, if needed.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

SUKKOS FEAST

Beef Fry-Wrapped Lamb Chops Serves: 4-8

8 2 1 6-8

baby lamb chops teaspoons kosher salt teaspoon freshly ground black pepper tablespoons Gold’s wasabi sauce (or honey mustard), plus more for serving (4-ounce) packages beef fry Potato chips or Cauliflower Purée (page 78), for serving

1. Preheat oven to broil. Season lamb chops generously with salt and pepper. Brush each lamb chop with about 1 tablespoon of wasabi sauce, then wrap with a slice of beef fry. 2. Broil for 5 minutes, turning halfway, until cooked through. Serve with potato chips or Cauliflower Purée.

Dessert Hack Hack your way to a fancy looking dessert with some cubed store-bought cake, whipped cream, fresh fruit and compote. Heshy used store-bought pound cake, whipped cream, pomegranate seeds and compote (Isaac’s Riesling Peach Compote, page 80).

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

www.fleishigs.com

SUKKOS FEAST

Heshy based his table off VISTA ALEGRE BUTTERFLY PARADE CHINA. The butterflies inspired the butterfly details throughout the tablescape and paired perfectly with richly elegant purple tablecloth. For the centerpiece, Heshy rented black branch-like candle holder centerpieces from @ rentspruce as well as black wine glasses that added a modern element to the table. Butterfly decals were used to create a magical, mystical vibe and were glued on to the centerpieces. For additional touches, @lovepaperie created custom butterfly water bottle wraps that Heshy wrapped around VOSS water bottles, as well as customized menus and place cards. Heshy attached a butterfly decal to each place card to further tie in the butterfly theme.

The scoop is in

Heshy Jay is an event production genius who founded Scoop & Co. based in New York. He has traveled the globe producing revolutionary events.Follow him on Instagram @scooplifestyle or visit his site scoopparty.com

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

Chana Zelda Weiss is a full-time mom of three, part-time program administrator and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook.

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

“Few formal dining experiences are as revered or as intimidating as omakase.” -Michelin Guide THE ESSENCE OF OMAKASE lies in the word itself — directly translated, it means "I leave it up to you." An omakase chef determines, sometimes at the spur of the moment, what will appear on the plate, based on the finest and freshest fish and seasonal ingredients available to him that day. Unlike most restaurants, dining omakase means customers sit at the bar or counter and interact directly with the sushi chef. In this era of limited restaurant options and an uncertain future, more people than ever are turning to intimate in-home dining experiences with just their closest friends or family. Omakase dining presents unique challenges; the chef-facing experience is difficult to execute outdoors or in a socially distanced manner within a restaurant setting, but is ideal for an in-home experience. Last year, after selling Boru Boru, his popular kosher ramen restaurant in NYC, owner Dan Zelkowitz began managing omakase restaurants throughout Manhattan. Bringing his vast restaurant knowledge to this new venture, Boru Boru now operates in the private event space, seeking to bring intimate — yet luxury — experiences, whether at your kitchen island for 6-8 guests or a small backyard party of 20-30. “We will work with your space and bring everything we need,” says Dan. He is particularly excited about bringing omakase to the kosher consumer. “Omakase is all about the whole experience. It’s not just a bite to eat — expect to learn something new: about the food, about yourself and about your fellow diners.” While many may be accustomed to ordering their favorite Philadelphia roll (extra cucumber, hold the wasabi), putting your trust in an expert chef to create the perfect bite can open up a whole new world of flavor, creating a one-of-a-kind experience. Watching the experienced chef is a memorable spectacle in itself. The expert knife skills, rice shaping and the precise blowtorch technique all contribute to a majestic cooking performance.

100

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

“It’s like a concert — I am the musician and you are my audience,” says Thailand native Chef Palm, as he stands behind hostess Michal Weinstein’s striking zebra marble waterfall countertop while the small group of guests find their seats around him. A row of small bowls hold the accompaniments he’ll use, including minced daikon radish in ponzu sauce, yuzu kosho (zest of a Japanese citrus blended with jalapeños and vinegar), chili oil, shiso leaf and thinly sliced scallions, alongside a show stopping display of vibrant fresh fish and imported Japanese rice kept warm in a hangiri — a traditional round, flat-bottomed wooden tub. While Chef Palm begins shaping the rice, deftly wrapping a slice of wasabi-dotted hamachi around each piece and finishing with a brush of soy sauce, Dan reviews the “rules” of omakase. “Number one, use your fingers — no chopsticks!” The second rule, Dan explains, is to eat the entire piece in one bite. This ensures that

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

101

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

you'll get the perfect ratio of fish to rice with just the right amount of soy sauce and wasabi. Above all, the heart of the omakase experience is trusting the chef to create the perfect bite — don’t ask for any adjustments to your preferences, and for the love of omakase, don’t dip it in spicy mayo. “Let’s rock and roll!” proclaims Chef Palm, as he pulls out a blowtorch for the finishing touch on the next course, a sliver of aburi (literally “flame torched”) red snapper with a touch of truffle salt, sprinkled salt-bae style (to the Instagrammers’ delight). Although still almost completely raw, the flame renders some of the fat in the fish, imparting a slightly smoky flavor. Next up, after a quick palate cleanser of pickled ginger, is striped bass from Boston, finished with a squeeze of lemon, a dot of Japanese chili oil and a sliver of shiso leaf, followed by a double decker of Scottish salmon topped with zuke (lightly pickled) salmon and yuzu kosho. The room is filled with boisterous chatter, but the chef is intensely focused, using his chopsticks like tweezers to assemble each piece to perfection. As Chef Palm passes out the next course, lightly marinated tuna with scallions and a drizzle of radishlaced ponzu sauce, he explains the difference between the flavorful akame (literally “red,” meaning lean) tuna from the back of the fish, where muscles work

102

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

the hardest, and the fatty toro cut from the belly, which insulates the tuna’s organs from the cold sea water. His infectious energy and sense of humor has everyone engaged, listening intently as they sample the akame variety. Diners are begging for seconds, but the best is yet to come — the unctuous toro cut, known as the wagyu of fish, which can cost as much as $25 a slice. “For this one, you just have to close your eyes and let it melt in your mouth,” says host Jonathan Weinstein. “This is the one that people find transformative,” adds Dan. As the music swells for the grand finale, the chef deftly slices off a thin piece of pure fat from the toro and torches it to create a crispy piece of toro bacon. With intense concentration, he tops each piece of flamekissed toro tuna with a piece of the toro bacon. The room goes silent; everyone is amazed. “I don’t think I’ve ever had anything like this in my life,” says cookbook author Naomi Nachman, with a look of pure contentment on her face. Chef Palm made sure this experience didn’t just live up to the expectations, but exceeded them. “The quality of the ingredients and the masterful preparation, coupled with the dynamic of the chef — it was an experience unlike any other,” commented Fleishigs editor Elisheva Taitz.

IF YOU’VE ENJOYED YOUR MEAL, BE SURE TO OFFER THE CHEF A COLD SAKE OR BEER AS A TOKEN OF APPRECIATION — A TIMEHONORED JAPANESE TRADITION.

The chef takes a bow, but like every great musical performance, the crowd is chanting for an encore. Chef Palm acquiesces with a smile, slicing some more fish and wrapping it in nori before passing it out. Improvising as he goes, he finely chops the remaining end pieces and mixes in some yuzu kosho for small hand rolls. After all, who needs dessert when you can have more sushi?

www.fleishigs.com

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

103

B Y: C E L E S T E H AC K E L

@ H E A L H Y.TO.T H E .C O R E

xtra-virgin olive oil, which has long been an integral part of the Mediterranean diet, has now become a staple in Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s kitchens and restaurants. Rich in health

benefits with its antioxidants and monounsaturated fats, a high quality olive oil is a must-have in the world of fine cooking and dining. Supermarket shelves are fIlled with a variety of olive oils, which may leave you wondering what oils to buy, how to utilize them and where. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a run-down to help guide you.

104

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

105

HEALTH

COLD PRESSED, UNREFINED

Extra-virgin olive oil is the highest quality olive oil. It’s superior in purity, flavor and nutrients. Industry standards require that it be unrefined, meaning extraction can’t involve heat or the use of chemicals, which would alter the flavor and nutrients. You may see “cold pressed” written on the label, referring to the traditional, most natural extraction process that produces oils rich in quality, nutrients, flavor and price. Extra-virgin olive oil undergoes a rigorous testing and qualification process to earn its premium status, which is why it’s usually more expensive. THE BOTTLE

When choosing olive oil, look for one in a dark, glass bottle. Seal it tightly and store in a cool, dark, dry place to protect it from the light and air. This will preserve its flavor, quality and health benefits for a longer period of time. Ideally, you want to buy a bottle that you’d consume within a few months, but if stored properly, it can last about 12-18 months from the time it's opened. TO HEAT OR NOT TO HEAT

In the culinary world, there has been much debate about cooking with olive oil due to its low smoke point. Though it has been widely held that extravirgin olive oil should be reserved for cold dishes or low to medium heat cooking, more recent sources report its smoke point to be anywhere from 350-410°F, making it a good choice for sautéing, stir frying or pan frying. While extra-virgin olive oil may lose some of its nutrients when exposed to high heat, it nonetheless is a better choice than many commercial

106

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

vegetable oils, though it wouldn’t be advisable to cook at temperatures above 410°F. (See page 109 for recommendations on oils for higher temperature cooking.) HOW TO USE

Why pay more for a good quality olive oil? Extra-virgin olive oil is often thought of for use in salad dressings, as it pairs beautifully with acids like vinegar and citrus, but it can also be used to enhance the flavors of a multitude of dishes in a variety of ways. It varies in intensity from delicate to robust, with floral, nutty, fruity, buttery, grassy and herbal notes. The color of extra-virgin olive oil ranges from a deep green to a golden yellow, depending on the olives’ pigment, region of origin and time of harvest.

oil over sliced tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. The bold, fruity scent and prominent, peppery finish of a robust oil will enhance the natural flavors in cold dishes like vegetable crudités, dressings, marinades, dips and bitter greens such as arugula and watercress. It can also be used to complement heartier foods like a pasta sauce, risotto, grilled meat or soup. The fruity taste and peppery finish of medium intensity oils pair well with chicken, roasted vegetables, pasta and salad. Delicate oils have a smooth and mild buttery or floral taste that enhance the subtle flavors of mushrooms, fish, pesto or mild salad greens. Extravirgin olive oil is also a beautiful accompaniment to a Yom Tov table as a simple dip for challah — just serve it simply in a bowl with balsamic vinegar and flaky sea salt. ORIGINS & VARIETIES

WHICH TO USE

When deciding which olive oil to use, any decent quality bottle of extra-virgin olive oil is great for everyday cooking, where you’d want a lighter, more neutral flavor that won’t overpower the food. A fine, high-quality, artisan olive oil will add an upscale dimension to your meal, though you may want to reserve these pricier oils for dishes where you can taste and appreciate the depth of flavor, like dressings, dips or garnishes. Alonso is the newest brand to hit the kosher market with its high quality olive oils. It can be used as a finishing oil for Chef Isaac’s bisque, in a basic vinaigrette or to lightly sauté vegetables for a soup or purée. You can use the distinct flavors of extra-virgin olive oil to either complement or contrast the flavors of your food. Think of drizzled olive

Most think of Italy as the place to source extra-virgin olive oil. However, Spain and Chile also produce very high quality olive oil. Among the various oils, there are subtle differences; delving into the varieties can be as exciting as a wine aficionado discovering various types of Cabernet Sauvignon wine. Alonso, for example, produces six different varieties of extra-virgin olive oil — each one is derived from different types of olives that impacts its flavor profile. With a full array of flavors to choose from, there are no absolutes when it comes to choosing the right extravirgin olive oil. Try a few varieties to see which tastes you appreciate most. With all that goes into producing, preparing and choosing a quality olive oil, you’ll undoubtedly find it will turn even a simple meal into something special.

www.fleishigs.com

HEALTH

Good olive oil? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s complicated.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

107

HEALTH

We combined 4 cups watercress, 2 sliced tomatoes, 1 thinly sliced shallot and 1 sliced avocado with Celeste's simple lemon vinaigrette (page 111) to create our favorite fresh salad that will complement any meal.

108

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

HEALTH

C O C O N U T O I L offers some impressive health benefits, including improved HDL cholesterol, but is high in saturated fat compared to other plant-based oils. It still can be a healthier oil to use for high temperature cooking due to its high smoke point (450°F). Good for: sautéing, baking, frying. A V O C A D O O I L has a naturally neutral taste without being chemically processed. This, plus its heart-healthy monounsaturated fats, acids and higher smoke point (approximately 400°F) make it a favorite among health enthusiasts. It’s great for cooking at higher heat, though it tends to be on the pricier side. Good for: sautéing, baking, frying. C A N O L A O I L has the least amount of saturated fats among the vegetable oils and a high smoke point (425-450°F), so it’s good for high-heat cooking. In the US, canola oil is highly chemically processed and refined. “Cold-pressed” or unprocessed canola oil is available, but can be pricier and harder to find. Good for: frying, searing, roasting, baking. V E G E T A B L E oil may consist of either canola, corn, cottonseed, soybean, sunflower, palm oil or any combination of them. It is highly chemically processed and refined, which gives it its neutral flavor. It’s also high in omega-6 fatty acids, which may contribute to chronic inflammation. It also has a high smoke point (425-450°F). Good for: frying, roasting, baking.

Celeste Hackel is an Integrative Nutrition Health Coach based in Woodmere, NY. With a master’s degree in Organizational Psychology from Columbia University, health coach certification from the Institute of Integrative Nutrition and a lifelong passion for health and wellness, Celeste works with individual clients to simplify and prioritize health through a holistic, non-diet approach, practical meal prep tips and easy to follow, nutritious recipes. She also runs online group programs. You can follow her on instagram @healthy.to.the.core for more health tips.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

109

HEALTH

110

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

HEALTH

Tzimmes Latkes Yield: 22 mini latkes

By: Chanie Apfelbaum

Tzimmes, a sweet stew typically made with carrots and dried fruit such as raisins or prunes, is traditionally eaten on Rosh Hashana. Here it’s elevated in the form of latkes with a delicious sweet and sour mostarda. 2 2 1 2 2 1 ¼

carrots, peeled and grated medium sweet potatoes, peeled and grated large shallot, peeled and grated tablespoons all-purpose flour large eggs, beaten Zest of ½ orange teaspoon kosher salt teaspoon ground black pepper Olive oil, for frying Prune Mostarda, for serving (recipe follows)

1. In a large bowl, combine carrots, sweet potatoes, shallot, flour, eggs, orange zest, salt and pepper. 2. Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil (enough to cover the surface) in a large sauté pan. Add 2 heaping tablespoons of batter and flatten with a spatula to form a small patty. Repeat with remaining batter, taking care not to overcrowd the pan. Fry until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side. 3. Drain latkes on a paper towel-lined plate and serve immediately with Prune Mostarda. MAKE AHEAD: Place the latkes onto

a wire cooling rack set atop a baking sheet and reheat in the oven at 325°F for 5-10 minutes, until crispy.

Always choose the carrot over the stick. and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Rinse with cold water to remove the cure, then pat dry with paper towels.

Prune Mostarda By: Chanie Apfelbaum

Add 1½ cups pitted prunes, halved, 2 teaspoons mustard seeds, 2 teaspoons mustard powder, ½ teaspoon granulated ginger, ¼ teaspoon cinnamon, ¾ cup dry white wine, ½ cup orange juice, ¼ cup honey and 1 teaspoon kosher salt to a saucepan. Simmer over medium heat, until the prunes are plump and the liquid has thickened into a syrup, about 25 minutes.

Salmon Crudo with Pomegranate and Apple Serves: 6

By: Adina Schlass

2. Using a sharp chef’s knife, cut even ⅛-inch slices, so they are thin but still maintain a substantial bite. The last few slices will be harder to slice evenly, so just use those for snacking or for salmon tartare. 3. Combine apples, shallot, lime zest and juice, jalapeño, tarragon and cilantro in a medium bowl. 4. Arrange sliced salmon on a platter, then evenly distribute the apple-herb mixture. Top with pomegranate seeds, sliced radishes, toasted pine nuts and microgreens. Sprinkle with Maldon salt and drizzle with olive oil.

Everyone who follows me on Instagram (@the_chefs_wife_) knows I love salmon crudo and this version is the perfect Rosh Hashana appetizer. Curing helps firm up and extract water from the fish, resulting in a deeper and more intense flavor. It’s easy, beautiful and perfectly on theme!

Note: The salmon can be cured one day in advance. Once cured, drizzle with olive oil, tightly seal in a Ziploc bag and refrigerate on a tray of ice. Change ice as needed.

pound center-cut, sushi-grade salmon 1 cup kosher salt, for curing ¼ cup sugar, for curing 2 large Granny Smith apples, finely diced ½ shallot, diced Zest and juice of 1 lime 1 jalapeño, diced 1 tablespoon chopped tarragon 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro ½ cup pomegranate seeds 3 radishes, thinly sliced ¼ cup toasted pine nuts Microgreens Maldon salt Extra-virgin olive oil

Yield: 1 cup

1. Place salmon in a glass dish. Combine salt and sugar and sprinkle evenly all over the salmon, then cover

Whisk all ingredients until incorporated. Refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 1 month.

Simple Lemon Vinaigrette By: Celeste Hackel

Keep it simple and healthy with this versatile vinaigrette. Use it to dress your favorite green or grain salads, drizzle over roasted vegetables or use as a delicious marinade for chicken. You can also jazz it up with some minced garlic or any of your favorite herbs. ⅔ ⅓ ½ ½

cup olive oil cup lemon juice teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

111

112

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

EVEN THOUGH I’VE been living in New York since 2001, I was born and raised in Seattle, Washington, which will always be home in my heart. My Saba Joe z”l was born there and my parents, siblings and grandmother still live there, which definitely makes me the outlander. While I’m more likely to visit for a week or more, many travelers tend to stop over for a brief visit to Seattle on their way to Vancouver, Alaska or Hawaii.

Here are some things to do and, of course, places to eat!

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

113

TRAVEL

KO S H E R R E S TAU R A N T S

attractions because of the breathtakDOWNTOWN SEATTLE is a MUST! In just a few hours, you can shop around Pike ing 270-foot waterfall and nature trails. Place Market, visit the Space Needle and Don’t worry, the trails are very light, admire the glass sculptures in Chihuly so you don’t need to pack your hiking Garden. Plan to bring lunch shoes for this trip. I highly with you because there is no recommend bringing lunch with you so you can enjoy a longer a kosher restaurant picnic. Snoqualmie Falls is a downtown. Yes, we are all 1-hour drive from downtown mourning the recent closSeattle, so you can spend ing of Bamboo Garden — a your morning at Pike Place, kosher vegetarian restaupick up lunch at Island Crust rant that was a Seattle mainon Mercer Island and spend stay. Start your day at Pike your afternoon at the Falls. Place Market, explore the The Washington State shops, watch the fishmonFerries system is the largest gers throw salmon and yell SPACE ferry system in the US and is at each other, buy a coffee definitely an experience. You at the original Starbucks, will need to take your rental sample kosher chocolateNEEDLE car on the ferry so you can covered cherries at the drive around the island once Chukar Cherries booth and A N D you arrive. There are so many check out the views of the to choose from, so I’m going Puget Sound. If you visit to make it easy for you and in summer, you’re in for a THAI recommend the Bremerton treat, because the market is Ferry, which crosses Puget lined with flower bouquets NOODLE Sound and leaves from for sale and the juiciest downtown. Once you’re in fruit you’ll ever taste. Next Bremerton, you can visit up, head over to the Space the Naval Shipyard, Puget Needle. Walk 20 minutes, Sound Navy Museum and drive or take the monorail! The views from the top of the the boardwalk. You can Space Needle are incredible go to Vashon Island to and there’s a café where you visit the Point Robinson can stop for coffee and beer. Lighthouse; Bainbridge Right next door is Chihuly Island to check out the Garden and Glass, which views of Seattle's skyline and West Seattle's beaches; features the most stunning and Whidbey Island to go glass sculptures from artist Dale Chihuly. You can buy a discount- on some seriously incredible hikes! ed ticket, which gets you into both the Keep an eye out for whales, otters and Space Needle and Chihuly Garden. Fun big Northwest birds. fact: In 1999, Chihuly started an exhibi- If you’re obsessed with airplanes, like tion, Chihuly in the Light of Jerusalem, my husband, check out The Museum and more than 1 million visitors attend- of Flight or The Boeing Factory. The ed the Tower of David Museum to view Boeing Company was born in Seattle in the early 1900s and both the museum his installations. Snoqualmie Falls is one of and factory offer a one-of-a-kind exWashington State’s most popular scenic perience. At the Boeing Factory, you’ll 114

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

All restaurants listed are supervised by the Seattle Va’ad. Always make sure to check kashrut and cholov yisroel status before visiting. Unfortunately, there are no meat restaurants, but you can buy deli at the two specific QFC locations listed below. PABLA INDIAN CUISINE , in Renton, has some of the best Indian food I’ve ever tasted. The lunch buffet is definitely my favorite! There is also a small Indian market attached to the restaurant where you can buy take-out and many specialty Indian ingredients. TEAPOT VEGETARIAN HOUSE , in Redmond, has a fully vegan panAsian menu with selections from Singapore, Thailand, Indonesia, Vietnam, Japan and China. EINSTEIN BROS. BAGELS , in the University Village QFC, is the only kosher Einstein in the country and is a great place to pick up bagels, soups and sandwiches for a day trip! ISLAND CRUST , the only kosher pizza shop and full-service dairy restaurant in Seattle, is located on Mercer Island. KRISPY KREME in SODO (South of Downtown) is a must! When the fresh-light is on and those donuts are right out of the fryer, buy a dozen glazed donuts — you won’t regret it! SUPERMARKETS : The QFC located in University Village and the one on Mercer Island both have a kosher deli takeout section.

view airplanes on the assembly line before they take flight. Buy tickets in advance because they sell out quickly. The Museum of Flight, which is more hands-on and great for kids, will keep you occupied for hours! Another option for the afternoon is the Ballard Locks, a water elevator that allows boats to pass between Lake Union and the Puget Sound. There is even a www.fleishigs.com

fish ladder — a man-made route for fish to pass from the saltwater to the freshwater — where sea lions hang out waiting for the salmon to come through. If you’re visiting Seattle for Shabbat and need suggestions for where to order food or where to stay, email me at melinda@melindastrauss.com.

Melinda Strauss is a Health & Wellness Coach and well-known Jewish food blogger. With over nine years developing and photographing recipes on her blog, Kitchen Tested, a successful Jewish Food Media business conference in its eighth year and thousands of lives changed through her health coaching practice, Melinda continues to share her life unapologetically and empower others to dream on Instagram @therealmelindastrauss and on her website www.melindastrauss.com.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

115

SICHUAN EGGPLANT Serves: 2-4

By Melinda Strauss

Bamboo Garden, a kosher Chinese vegetarian restaurant in Seattle, closed its doors indefinitely in July 2020. The entire Seattle community — and people across the world who've eaten there on business trips and vacations — are so sad to see it go. I am sharing my version of one of their most popular menu items, Sichuan Eggplant. Note: Because wok cooking happens so quickly, it’s imperative to have all your ingredients ready to go, which is why it’s recommended to prepare everything in small bowls before proceeding with the recipe.

116

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

½ 2 ½ ½

5 3 1 2 4 2 2-3

cup vegetable stock teaspoons sugar teaspoon soy sauce tablespoon red pepper flakes cloves garlic, minced teaspoons freshly grated ginger teaspoon cornstarch teaspoons apple cider vinegar scallions, roughly chopped, plus more for garnish tablespoons peanut oil Japanese eggplants, diced (about 4 cups worth)

1. Combine vegetable stock, sugar and soy sauce in one bowl and red pepper flakes, garlic and ginger in another bowl. Dissolve cornstarch in 1 tablespoon water in another bowl and combine scallions and vinegar in the final bowl. 2. Heat oil in a large sauté pan or wok over medium-high heat. Add eggplant and sauté until soft and skin is blistered. 3. Add garlic mixture and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds, then add the stock mixture. Reduce heat to mediumlow and simmer for 90 seconds. Add cornstarch mixture and stir until sauce starts to thicken. Add scallions and vinegar and stir until combined. Garnish with more scallions and serve immediately.

www.fleishigs.com

The few months stuck in lockdown have given me a lot of appreciation for things I realized I took for granted. Acknowledging the things we never noticed before this pandemic is the most interesting part, including the amount of time we have to spend as a family doing activities we love. Our garden has never looked better, home improvement projects are getting done and most importantly our wine collection has expanded tremendously, so much so that we had to double down on the amount we consume and taste. We also have been spending so much time outside with neighbors lamenting about easier times over a distanced bottle or two of wine. I don’t know how our relationships with our neighbors could have become as intimate as they are now without quarantine or without the shared love of tasting and enjoying new wines. I have a proposition for everyone out there reading this article and it’s a bit brash, but those of you who know me know that brash is basically my other middle name. After a prolonged period of doing things the way they were done before, with schedules and routines shaken up by the pandemic, we should try this type of shakeup with wine consumption. Please do yourself a favor and move out of your comfort zone of drinking big bold ‘Cabs’ and buttery ‘Chards,’ buzz words at every wine tasting I attend. What gives?! There are hundreds of thousands of grapes out in the world. I am pleading with y’all to trade in the Cabernet Sauvignon for a Grenache or a Petite Sirah this coming Yom Tov. You will learn to love the not-so -‘safe’ varietals and that’s a guarantee.

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK: VITKIN WINERY B Y YA E L E . G E L L E R , M P H

NEW WO RLD WINE WITH O U T THE S A ME O LD

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK

Assaf Paz, head winemaker of Vitkin, is known from his work at Binyamina Winery as the creator of the popular THE CAVE wine. Assaf has an interesting rap sheet compared to many other Israeli winemakers. Born and raised in Israel, Assaf started his winemaking training in Bordeaux after working for three years as a successful pastry chef. His motivation to become a winemaker in Israel is a blend of passion for flavors and a love for agriculture and of course Eretz Yisrael. This hybrid between the old world and new world has shaped his winemaking style and there is so much to offer the consumer from just one winery. Vitkin winery officially received kosher certification following the 2015 Shmitta vintage and subsequently started exporting wines abroad, following suit of other similarly-sized Israeli wineries. Vitkin's entry-level or Journey series takes you, in fact, on a journey with a white, red and rosé. After that, we get into the varietal and as I think of these wines, my mouth waters. The first one I fell in love with was the Grenache Blanc. Wow, what a wine! The structure is tantalizing and full of minerality with a gorgeous oak backbone, which is just detectable enough to give this wine the backbone it needs to age for several years. I’d pair this with duck gnocchi or a mushroom thyme risotto in a flash. Its red counterpart is just as luscious, with a velvety, juicy structure bursting with red fruits galore and a smoky leathery finish. I always wanted a fire pit to roast lamb on a spit in my yard; maybe as a quarantine project we will get one so we can pair the Grenache Noir with that meal. Only a few years ago, it was quite unusual to find a successful Gewürztraminer from Israel, but there has been a vast improvement on that front in the kosher market (stay tuned for a future feature on that) and the one we drink almost every other week is the Vitkin. This wine is super versatile, from kiddush on the lawn in the summer to a nice evening with some lemon-caper cod filets and asparagus. The acid cuts through the fattiness of the buttered fish and veggies and the nose is so glorious. Characteristics of 120

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

www.fleishigs.com

THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK

T HER E ARE HIGHS B E YO N D T HE ME R LOT S Gewürztraminer are so distinct you can smell the floral notes a mile away. The next to mention is the Riesling from Vitkin, which is only available in Israel, and is my favorite white varietal of all time. Once the travel ban to Israel is lifted, please don’t walk but RUN to get this wine and bring it home! How about the reds for our friends who are so partial to the big bold comforting flavors of ‘Cab.’ Well, we can start with Cabernet Franc, which is the parent varietal to Cabernet Sauvignon. Distinct flavors of Cabernet Franc include green bell peppers (thanks to the pyrazines), which are also super distinct in the nose and palate of this wine. How about something different? Old Vine Petite Syrah is the way to go, with flavors of flint, leather and black fruits like cherries and plums. A wellrounded tannic finish makes this an awesome choice for a special meal or

gift for a wine-loving friend. There are so many choices, it is hard to choose. I’d like to encourage the experimental type of wine reader to test out all the wines week by week. We certainly cannot forget the old vine Carignan and another favorite of mine, the Pinot Noir. We are also looking forward to a new project made from the indigenous Spanish grape known as Macabeo. Vitkin has also released a Late Harvest Gewürztraminer. 80% of the grapes for that wine were naturally affected by Botrytis Cinerea (a special fungus for all you less nerdy types), only the second occurrence in modern Israeli wine history since 1988. Last but not least, Shorashim, the first kosher certified flagship wine, only released in the best vintages, which has not been made for almost 10 years. I know there is a portion of readers who wonder why Assaf is not making a Cab. I was able to get the scoop directly from his mouth. “When I worked and trained around the world, I came to understand the importance of terroir and that every region is unique. Therefore, trying to produce a Burgundy-style wine in Israel is boring. I had a fire burning inside me to show the world the uniqueness of Israel through mostly Mediterranean grape varieties, but also other varieties such as Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Riesling that are not considered to be Mediterranean. However, we can make really high quality and interesting wine with them here.” Way back in 2002, when they implemented this philosophy, everyone was making fun of them. They decided as a team to stay true to their ideals and lo and behold, it took hold and many other wineries have copied this philosophy. After all, Oscar Wilde said, “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness.” It is abundantly clear that Assaf has a reputation for making wines we know and love. If you can trust him to make the delicious wine you love in the heavy bottle, surely you can give his other creations of different varieties a chance. I’d love to hear your reviews and comments. L’chaim! SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

121

Cookbook

review

Title: Modern Kosher: Global Flavors, New Traditions Author: Michael Aaron Gardiner Hardcover: 208 pages Publisher: Rizzoli Release Date: September 8, 2020 Tagline: 100 original recipes showcase the breadth of flavors, textures, ingredients and techniques available while keeping kosher. Price: $40

Modern Kosher captures the spirit of the gourmet kosher cook today. While inspired by Jewish cuisine, it veers way off the path of typical Jewish or kosher food and the dishes are surprisingly unexpected. The styling, plating and photography is very modern and elegant and showcases what a diverse playing field kosher can be. What makes this book unique is that it isn’t divided into specific sections of courses. Rather, it’s divided simply into three main topics: JEWISH AND ISRAELI RECIPES FOR THE MODERN TABLE

This chapter focuses on small plates like Mushroom Borscht Consommé with Dried Beet Strips; Tomato Matzah Ball Soup; and Latkes with Smoked Salmon, Pickled Blackberry and Wasabi Cream. The rest of the chapter covers large plates, such as Involtini of Eggplant and Pine Nut Ricotta; and Lamb Shank ‘Birria’. GLOBAL RECIPES FOR THE MODERN KOSHER TABLE

This chapter focuses on recipes with various cultural influences, like Beet Tartare with Greek Yogurt, Capers and Fenugreek Salt; Tuna-Stuffed

Tomatoes with Fresh Dill Vinaigrette; Empanadas of Minced Beef; Duck Pozole Rojo; an oxtail stew called Sevilla-Style ‘Rabo de Toro’; and NY Strip Steak with Mushroom and Red Wine Reduction. PANTRY ITEMS

The final chapter focuses on pantry basics, stocks, dressings, pickles, herb and spice blends, garnishes and staples. Modern Kosher is extraordinarily well-written and is best for those who like to experiment in the kitchen and

enhance their plating skills. There are detailed explanations and directions for both the novice and seasoned cook. It’s unique in the layout and the fact that there are no desserts, but its introduction of new dishes and flavor profiles captures the spirit of where kosher cuisine is headed. KASHRUT NOTE: The book has a few minor kashrut discrepancies, such as pan-frying fresh liver and using anchovies in a salsa verde meant for a lamb dish. Besides those minor details, the book adheres to all kashrut standards. SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

123

COOKBOOK REVIEW

Holishkes of Jerusalem Mixed Grill & Jasmine Rice Serves: 4-6

Reprinted with permission from Modern Kosher by Michael Aaron Gardiner. This dish is, in many ways, Israel on a plate. It combines Sephardic flavors from the shawarma seasoning and tahini with a classic Ashkenazi dish, holishkes, in a fully integrated, updated, and contemporary way. Indeed, Jerusalem mixed grill is itself a quintessential Israeli dish and a recent one. It was created in the shadow of Jerusalem’s Machane Yehuda Market no earlier than

FOR THE HOLISHKES:

Salt 1 large head green cabbage About ½ cup chicken stock FOR THE JERUSALEM MIXED GRILL FILLING:

¼ ¼ ¼ ½ 2 2

pound ground chicken breast pound chicken hearts (gizzards or sweetbreads) pound chicken livers, finely chopped cup cooked and cooled rice (preferably jasmine) tablespoons poultry shawarma spice blend tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

FOR THE TOMATO-TAHINI SAUCE:

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil ½ cup tomato paste 1 clove garlic, minced Salt 1 pinch nutritional yeast (optional; for additional savory character) ½ cup tahini paste Juice of 1 lemon 1 cup water FOR THE GARNISH:

Amba sauce

1. To make the holishkes: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, remove and reserve any large, damaged outer leaves from the cabbage head (you’ll use them later in the recipe). Cut out the core of the cabbage with a sharp knife and carefully pull off the rest of 124

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

the late 1960s. But it’s the flavors, not the backstory, that make the dish. Specifically, it’s the combination of the sweet, evocative warming flavors from the cardamom and the creaminess and bitter notes of the tahini (both Sephardic), on the one hand, with the savory chicken and chicken parts inside the stuffed cabbage. For those who may not be partial to the idea of offal, the shawarma seasoning makes this dish a great way to start down that path. Kashrut Note: The use of chicken hearts can be complicated. We recommend substituting sweetbreads or gizzards.

the leaves, keeping them whole and as undamaged as possible. Blanch the cabbage leaves in the boiling water for 5 minutes, or until pliable. Run the leaves under cold water to cool them. Carefully cut out the hard center vein of the cabbage leaves so they will be easier to roll up. 2. Take the reserved big outer leaves and lay them on the bottom of a glass or ceramic baking dish, letting part of the leaves hang out the sides of the pan. This insulation will prevent the cabbage rolls from burning on the bottom when baked. 3. Set aside 16 of the best-looking leaves to make the cabbage rolls. Not all of the leaves will be used: just the prettiest ones. Reserve the remainder of the cabbage for a different use (for example: cabbage soup, a stir-fry or lo mein dish, or a slaw). 4. To make the mixed grill filling: Preheat the oven to 350°F. Combine the ground chicken breast, ground chicken hearts (gizzards or sweetbreads), chopped chicken liver, cooked rice, shawarma spice blend, and olive oil in a large bowl and mix well to combine. Place 2 tablespoons of the filling in center of cabbage, and then roll them up. Transfer the rolls, seam-side down, to the bottom of a 9×13-inch glass or ceramic baking dish. 5. Pour enough of the chicken stock around the baking dish to just cover the bottom. Cook the rolls until the filling is cooked through, about 20 minutes. 6. To make the tomato-tahini sauce: While the rolls are in the oven, heat the olive oil www.fleishigs.com

in a small sautĂŠ pan, add the tomato paste, and fry it just long enough to draw the raw flavor out, about 15 seconds. Add the garlic and a pinch of salt to the bowl of a food processor through the feed tube and process to mince the garlic. Add the nutritional yeast (if using), tahini, tomato paste, and lemon juice to the bowl and process to combine. With the food processor running, add the water through the feed tube in a steady stream to form a smooth, creamy sauce approximately the thickness of heavy cream. You may not need all the water. 7. Taste the sauce and adjust the balance

of water, salt, and lemon juice as necessary. Turn the tahini sauce out into a bowl. 8. To serve: Using a spatula or palette knife, spread a stripe of the tomato-tahini sauce across each plate. Top the stripe with two holishkes. Garnish with a dollop of the amba sauce in between the two holishkes. N OT E : Ask your butcher to grind the chicken hearts for you or do it yourself if you have a meat grinder (or the appropriate attachment for a standing mixer). You can also achieve excellent results mincing with a sharp chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s knife.

About the author: Michael Aaron Gardiner is an award-winning weekly food writer (2018 San Diego Press Club Award; 2019 Society of Professional Journalists Award) for the San Diego CityBeat and contributor to the San Diego Union-Tribune. He writes the San Diego Food and Travel blog sdfoodtravel.com and cohosts The Art of Spooning podcast on the Specialty Produce Network. Gardiner also practices business law and litigation in San Diego.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

125

INTERVIEW

We spoke with Elizabeth Savetsky, Jewish activist and fashion blogger, on what it means to make a difference, both globally and right at home.

What is your background? I was raised in Fort Worth, Texas in a secular home that was filled with Jewish pride. I went to NYU for college, where I was pursuing a career as a singer, but got sidetracked by an untapped curiosity about my Jewish identity, which completely changed my path. I spent the year after college at Neve Yerushalayim in Jerusalem and then became engaged to my husband Ira almost immediately upon returning from Israel. In 2013, I started my blog, Excessories Expert: a Guide to Excessive Accessories, as a creative outlet. I wrote articles about accessory trends and rising accessory designers. This was well before being a “blogger” meant anyone with an Instagram account. I was also working fulltime for a fashion PR company and was a new mama as well. I never thought I would make money off of my blog or that it could blossom into a real career, but once social media exploded, my audience grew organically over time. Through Instagram, I began to share more details about my personal life, motherhood and my passions outside of fashion. I have been so blessed to cultivate a very authentic and meaningful relationship with my followers.

When did your space shift from being fashion-focused to driven by meaningful causes? Over the past few years, I have really started to shift gears and focus much more on using my platform to raise awareness of causes that are important to me. I feel so much more fulfilled when I can post about meaningful

126

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

issues, from Israel and the Jews to infertility and pregnancy loss, than simply posting the latest trends and outfits. My audience may come to me for the mommyand-me fashion, but my hope is that they’ll get a much deeper message while they’re there.

What are some of the specific causes near and dear to your heart? I was amazed to see such overwhelming support from my audience when I openly shared my experience with three pregnancy losses. It’s so important to me to continue to destigmatize pregnancy loss and help women feel less alone in their grief. I also recently partnered with My Soldier, an Israel-based organization that provides financial, emotional and spiritual support for lone soldiers in the IDF. My Instagram audience raised over $55,000 for a Sefer Torah to donate to soldiers on the front lines of battle in memory of the three souls we carried but never had the opportunity to meet. It’s projects like this that keep me going when I feel burnt out or worn down from haters. I know there’s so much more good to be done!

I feel a great responsibility as a Jewish person with a platform to stand up for my people.

You didn’t set out to be a Jewish activist. How did the fight against antiSemitism become such a large part of what you do? I feel a great responsibility as a Jewish person with a platform to stand up for my people. I don’t have a degree in fighting antiSemitism and I was absolutely intimidated at the prospect of taking on such a serious subject,

www.fleishigs.com

INTERVIEW

The best way to teach is to lead by example. My husband and I eat, sleep and breathe Jewish pride.

but I also felt I had no choice. I was lying awake every night, just wrecked over the hate crimes, attacks and media bias that I was seeing. I saw so few speaking out that I felt an obligation to bring awareness to the rising threat against the Jews. My Jewish identity is my North Star. I cannot possibly separate it from the other work I do. I can’t help but think — maybe the whole reason I was blessed with this platform was to use it as a microphone for the Jewish people. It’s one of the reasons I get out of bed every day.

How do you instill Jewish pride in your children? The best way to teach is to lead by example. My husband and I eat, sleep and breathe Jewish pride. It’s a constant topic in our home, whether it’s the Israeli shakshuka we make together or our weekly discussions about the parsha. My younger daughter, Juliet, is quite the existentialist. She’s always asking us wild questions about Hashem’s presence and even soul reincarnation. Her curiosity about Judaism brings me such nachas — I only wish I was better equipped to answer her questions! Both of our girls dream of going to Israel and digging in the Old City and I can’t wait to take them!

Where did your strong sense of Jewish identity come from? Even though I did not grow up religious, Jewish identity was of the utmost importance in my childhood home. My parents did an amazing job of lighting the spark for my spiritual journey. Heritage and family values were center stage. I was always told stories of my ancestors and the trials, tribulations and horrors they faced as Jews and worked hard to overcome so I could experience the life I have today. I was named after my great grandmother, Pesha Ita, an immigrant to Montgomery, Alabama from Eastern Europe. I feel such a strong tie to all of the relatives that came before me, but particularly to her. My dad brought me up with stories of her strength, beauty and generosity. She opened her home

to everyone. Each week, when I kindle the Shabbat candles, I am overcome with emotion, as I feel intrinsically connected to every generation that brought me to this point.

What are your go-to Shabbat/Yom Tov recipes? I don’t love to cook. My mom is an amazing cook, but I guess it skipped a generation! I can whip up a delicious brown sugar turkey meatloaf that pairs perfectly with mashed sweet potatoes. I’m into simple recipes! My mother-in-law makes the best chicken soup on earth. I’ve attempted it a few times, but she has the magic touch.

Do you have any favorite Rosh Hashana foods? My mom’s cranberry chili meatballs will forever be the taste of the New Year. She always served them as an appetizer with colorful toothpicks. We would stuff ourselves full before the main course ever had a chance! These days, we usually enjoy a roasted chicken with apricots and dates and a classic brisket, of course! And who doesn’t love challah and honey? Why don’t we eat it all year?

What are your best entertaining tips? I like my guests to feel relaxed in my home. My goal is for the meal to be special, but never overly fancy or formal. I want people to make happy memories, like the ones I have from my childhood, so I like to provide an environment that facilitates joy. My daughters set the table so beautifully and they take it quite seriously — there’s always a theme. We usually do a buffetstyle spread and there’s always lots and lots of wine. There’s nothing that makes me happier than seeing people having a wonderful time with laughter and meaningful chatter around the table. That is what it means to me to be a Jewish hostess!

Follow Elizabeth's adventures on Instagram @elizabethsavetsky and on her blog excessoriesexpert.com.

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs

127

RECIPE INDEX KEY:

FF Family-Friendly M Minimal Ingredients Q Quick

CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 29 Mandy’s Challah Recipe FF M Q 46 Apple and Lime Granita 46 Spicy Pomegranate Syrup M 48 Port, Fig and Rosemary Jam M Q 53 Cilantro and Sesame Gremolata M Q 62 Maple Roasted Pecans FF M Q 74 Vegan Cauliflower Cheese Sauce M 76 Honey Harissa Sauce M Q 77 Gochujang Maple Marinade M Q 78 Microwave Garlic Confit M Q 87 Guacamole FF M Q 91 Cashew Tahini M Q 111 Prune Mostarda 111 Simple Lemon Vinaigrette FF M Q

VEGETARIAN & SIDES 46 48 48 62 62 63 65 73 73 74 76 76 76 77 78 87 87 88 88 91 111 116

Beet and Basil Salad M Steamed Haricot Vert with Arugula and Warm Dijon Vinaigrette Q Roasted Yams FF M Q Purple Cabbage Salad FF Q Cream of Sweet Potato Soup FF Cauliﬂower “Popcorn” FF M Q Jewel-Toned Orzo Carrot Ginger Purée M Carrot Ginger Bisque M Cauliflower Au Gratin Basic Parsnip Purée M Parsnip Bisque M Carrot Tahini Purée M Gochujang Maple Acorn Squash Cauliflower Purée M Tomato Salad FF Q Rainbow Cabbage Slaw FF Q Roasted Mushrooms FF M Q Crispy Potatoes FF M Charred Eggplant M Tzimmes Latkes FF Q Sichuan Eggplant

FISH 46 53 62 85

Apple and Beet Tuna Sashimi Seared Snapper with Warm Coconut Broth Salmon Primavera FF Tuna and Salmon Tartare Napoleon Q

86 86 87 111

Sea Bass Sliders M Q Everything Seared Tuna Sliders M Q Salmon Jerky Sliders M Salmon Crudo with Pomegranate and Apple Q

POULTRY 75 76 78 79 79 92

Perfect Roast Chicken FF M Q Honey Harissa Chicken M Simple Roasted Chicken Thighs FF M Chicken Pot Pie FF Pressure Cooker Chicken Stock Seared Duck Breast M Q

MEAT 22 22 22 30 33 39 40 48 65 88 91 91 91 93 124

Soy Braised Veal Breast Kishka Stuffed Veal Breast Homemade Kishka Pulled Pomegranate Brisket Stuffed Challah FF Fig and Balsamic Salami Stuffed Challah FF Drunken Liver Mousse Stuffed Figs Simanim Potstickers FF Silver Tip Roast with Caramelized Shallots FF M Sweet & Sour Brisket FF M Crusted Oyster Steak FF M Q Roasted Marrow Bones M Beef Tartare Lamb Kofta FF M Q Beef Fry-Wrapped Lamb Chops M Q Holishkes of Jerusalem Mixed Grill and Jasmine Rice

SWEET TREATS 36 Marzipan-Stuffed Baked Apples FF 55 Pavlova with Whipped Cream, Chocolate Ganache and Fresh Fruit FF 55 Chocolate Ganache FF M Q 67 Apple Crunch Galette FF 80 Duck Fat Financier 80 Riesling Peach Compote Q 93 Dessert Hack FF M Q

LAST BITE

When it comes to purchasing fresh fish, we recommend developing a relationship with your fishmonger. Moshe Schonfeld, who runs our local fish shop, Ossie's (located in Gourmet Glatt), is always full of helpful information and recommendations. Read more about omakase on page 100.

130

Fleishigs

SEPT/OCT 2020

Fleishigs Magazine Issue 020 - Sep/Oct 2020

Articles inside

Susie's Favorite Yom Tov Recipes

The Meal Deal

The Right Stuff