W E ’ R E
A
W E L L
D O N E
M E D I U M
“As the years pass and my knowledge of each vineyard deepens, tending to the vines turns more personal and intimate. I am certain that this roots one of our secrets of success.�
Golan Flam, Winemaker
Product of Israel
TA K E A B R E A K F R O M T H E CO L D. N OT T H E QUA L I T Y.
Whatever your winterbreak destination, you can depend on our
DELICIOUS TRAVEL MEALS
and other convenient carry-along foods to provide the high quality goodness your family deserves.
cedarhurst
woodmere
brooklyn
lakewood north
lakewood south
137 Spruce Street Cedarhurst, New York T: 516-569-2662
1030 Railroad Ave Woodmere, New York T: 516-295-6901
1274 39th Street Brooklyn, New York T: 718-437-3000
1700 Madison Avenue Lakewood, New Jersey T: 732-961-1700
1328 River Avenue Lakewood, New Jersey T: 732-961-1750
Shop online at GourmetGlattOnline.com
/gourmetglatt
CONTENTS
32
8
EDITOR’S LETTER Vacation is a state of mind.
10
TRENDS A review of the newest kosher products released during this years Kosherfest show.
DESTINATION WEDDING
A trend slowly gathering steam as kosher options expand to exotic locations like Cancun, Thailand and Italy.
12
41
EXPAND YOUR HORIZONS
Top 5 under-the-radar cities to visit this year.
64
16
THE EXPERT Traveling to cities without much kosher? Food personality Naomi Nachman shares her top tips.
23
69
BUTCHER’S CUT This month, meat expert Naftali Hanau shares everything you need to know about skirt steak. DANI KLEIN, founder of YeahThatsKosher, is passionate about global travel, good kosher restaurants, social media, technology, digital marketing and spending time with his friends & family. Dani has an MBA in Marketing and works in the Social Media Marketing field for a large media agency. You can follow along on Dani’s trips and kosher restaurant excursions on Instagram (@YeahThatsKosher) and on his well-researched site www.YeahThatsKosher.com.
Disclaimer: Due to the ever-changing landscape of the travel industry, names, locations and even kashrut can change on a dime. Consult with your local Rabbi to determine which hashgacha works with your lifestyle. Fleishigs does not take responsibility for the kashrut standards of the restaurants listed in this issue. NOVEMBER 2019
SUPPLIES The plastic with perks. Get the inside scoop on using credit cards strategically.
GUEST EDITOR The trip to Iceland that propelled the creation of guest editor Dani Klein’s iconic website www.yeahthatskosher.com.
Chef Isaac Bernstein shares his ultimate no-knead pizza dough and gourmet toppings using basic ingredients.
Fleishigs
14
19
ROMAN PIZZA
6
CULINARY SCHOOL Make the perfect French fry — super crispy on the outside, fluffy texture on the inside.
AHEAD OF THE (BACK)PACK A complete guide on backpacking your way around the globe.
38
TOP 5 Gabriel Boxer aka the Kosher Guru shares 5 kosher cruise options.
76
INTERVIEW What is Nachum Segal’s favorite international food?
78
THE CELLAR Kosher wineries worth visiting.
80 80 82
RECIPE INDEX WINTER BREAK IDEAS LAST BITE w w w.f leishigs.com
editor's letter
T R AV E L I S S U E
VACAT I O N I S A STAT E O F M I N D
S
hopping at our local mall, I couldn’t help but notice a lively, interactive group of older Israeli women packed around a food court table, emitting a unique sense of energy. Behind them was another table with a few shopping bags, plastic containers of food, a few bottles of seltzer, cups and utensils. As I approached, I was amazed to witness a poker game taking place. I don’t know if real money was involved, but the good-time vibes emanating from this group of women was reminiscent of a busy night at a Las Vegas casino. These women literally brought Las Vegas to Garden City, NY. My work in food publishing has taken me all over the world. I have traveled and vacationed enough times to realize that while there is a place for adventures, like flying somewhere new and exotic, but you can literally take a vacation wherever you are. Vacation is a state of mind. In 2017, I was able to put this idea into practice when my mother graciously offered to watch our then 1-year-old for the night so my husband and I could celebrate our 14th wedding anniversary. We had only 1 night and we planned to make the most of it. I booked the W Hotel in the Union Square area of Manhattan using some credit card points (see pg. 14 for more information on the best credit card deals) and we were off. We planned our staycation like we were tourists and pulled out all the stops. We drove to the city, said yes to valet, indulged in a meal at a nice restaurant (Reserve Cut), had drinks at a cool rooftop bar on Park Avenue, walked around sightseeing and spontaneously went to a comedy show. The next morning we ordered Uber Eats to our hotel for brunch (there are many of kosher options in the area). Before leaving, we stopped at Union Square Farmers Market, which was located steps from our hotel. It was an incredible “vacation.” Just 1 night and we didn’t fly anywhere. But we took advantage of the amazing city that is less than 20 miles from our home. The truth is, now that our kids are getting a bit older, we are starting to think a
bit more about travel, which inspired this issue. Our guest editor Dani Klein (of popular kosher restaurant news and travel site www.yeahthatskosher.com) compiled a list of under-the-radar cities (pg. 41) that offer unique sites and experiences, but most importantly - kosher food. And our test kitchen was hard at work this month to bring you the best delicacies that these locales have to offer. As a kosher consumer, travel holds a great challenge because our meals (actually a large part of why people travel) need to be planned in advance. In recent years, great strides have been made to tremendously impact the world of kosher travel. Today, you can cruise (pg. 38), backpack (pg. 23), visit wineries (pg. 78) and travel to many cities that offer substantial kosher options. And what do you do if there aren’t kosher options at your destination? Travel pro Naomi Nachman shares her tips on making kosher work when traveling to far flung areas (pg. 16). Beyond physically traveling, bringing exotic foods to your kitchen is a wonderful way to “travel” the world through food by discovering new cuisines and products. Add flavor to your life and try Chef Isaac’s Roman-style pizza (pg. 64), a delicious ceviche inspired by Panama (pg. 44) or fluffy beignets straight out of New Orleans (pg. 51). Our hope is that this issue will take you places, whether you are inspired to take a physical trip or simply allow yourself to be more adventurous in the kitchen. Bitayavon, Shifra
8
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER
2019
@Fleishigsmag
How to Staycation: You don’t have to live in NYC. Simply Google your city and a list of the top 10 things to do will pop up. Be real and splurge on a nice local hotel (if that is your thing) instead of succumbing to the belief that fancy hotels are just for “real” vacations. Hike nearby mountains or parks, swim in your local oceans, book a unique spa experience and visit local museums. Sometimes the best treasures are right in your neighborhood.
@Fleishigsmag
CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chaviva Gordon-Bennett COPYWRITER Yudi Lewis PROOFREADER Chana Z. Weiss DESIGN estudio-5.com PRODUCTION estudio-5.com PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Devorah Kahan Alana White MARKETING & BRANDING Mann Sales Co. TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt RABBINICAL AUTHORITY www.ok.org www.fleishigs.com
Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com
Tried one of our recipes? Let us know! Hello@fleishigs.com
EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein
@Fleishigsmagazine
All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine, or for the content of books. Fleishigs magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Thank you to Fishs Eddy for providing many of the beautiful dishes used to photograph recipes for this issue. Visit www.fishseddy.com or their store located at 889 Broadway at 19th Street in NYC for flatware, dining ware, kitchenware, silverware, linens and more. w w w.f leishigs.com
GREAT MEALS start with
GREAT MEAT
™
From Butcher’s Cut to basics, visit growandbehold.com/fleishigs for great meats delivered to your door and 400+ recipes to inspire your next great meal.
Pasture Raised
No Hormones or Antibiotics
Family Farms
Let’s Talk Meat! 1-888-790-5781
TRENDS
Kosherfest Trends W
e were privileged to spend an afternoon at the Kosher Culinary Center in Brooklyn, NY, where we tasted — and voted on — the newest items that will be showcased at at Kosherfest, a 2-day trade-show that takes place every November at the Meadowlands Exposition Center in Secaucus, NJ. Hundreds of brands and companies, many in the infant stages, attend Kosherfest to showcase their products and gain valuable insight into the scope of the kosher market, from a large-scale and consumer perspective. We sampled many new items that are slated to appear at Kosherfest and had a blast casting votes for 2019’s Best New Product. What was most interesting about this tasting, is that some very unique products never actually make it to market. Every year, we taste items that receive wonderful accolades and gain respectable feedback. However, once factors such as distribution, marketing and logistics come into play, some products just don’t make the cut. This really sheds light on the complexities of the food business. Here were some of our favorites from the 2019 tasting:
Flavored Nuts.
Hot Stuff.
Hot sauce is all the rage, but when 2 trends converge, magic happens. Ella Jolie is a new brand offering up a unique collection of truffle-infused hot sauces. Our favorite was the cilantro lime. Oxygen Imports also jumped on the bandwagon with 2 new fiery sauces of its own.
Nuts are the quintessential grab-andgo snack or salad topper and “dressed up” nuts are definitely having a moment. Packed with vitamins and protein, nuts with added flavors are elevated to a place where they can almost replace potato chips. We kept going back to the roasted chili-lemon pistachios by Setton Farms. They were addictive!
“There is a continued demand for superior ingredients based on the growing influence of food magazines,” shares Mattis Soffer, CEO of Quality Frozen Foods. “Healthy food that tastes great and doesn't compromise on flavor is another booming trend,” he shares. 10
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
Kosher CBD.
Jewish Foods, Turned Up.
Making your Shabbos kugel could not be easier with Unger’s “kugel in a bottle.” Simply defrost, pour and bake. Another great addition to the “Jewish foods” market is Meal Mart’s pastrami kishka, a powerhouse combination of two classics.
Flavored Vinegars. De La Rosa is a brand dedicated to organic, healthy foods and is popular for their fullbodied oils, vinegars and more recently, wines. De La Rosa has just released raspberry vinegar to top last year’s hit, white balsamic vinegar.
Frozen Desserts.
Convenience is a growing trend and the frozen dessert industry has certainly expanded to meet the demand. Elegant Desserts NY has some phenomenal nondairy desserts; their ice cream sandwiches were delicious. Another dessert company, the newly launched La Marguerite Gourmet, based in Montreal, Canada, has yet to secure distribution in the United States, but we sampled some of the best tarts and cakes we have ever tasted. The lemon meringue was a clear winner.
CBD’s association with marijuana has made this hemp-derived oil a hot commodity. Said to have many health benefits but without the psychotropic effects of marijuana, CBD is now readily available in many products from creams to pills to snack items. Ketoret has created CBD-infused biscotti that is available in various flavors and makes for the ultimate coffee, tea or milk dipper.
Charcuterie.
Emes Charcuterie is expanding into retail, Meal Mart has introduced a sweet Italian sausage to its already solid lineup, Agri Star Meat & Poultry has released a gourmet line of salami and Jack’s Gourmet has released an all new beef hot dog.
Meatless Mondays.
It’s no secret that veganism is on the rise, with its many health benefits. Although many meat alternatives on the market try to mimic the flavor of meat, it was refreshing to taste Zamaze’s new mushroom burger. Packed with fresh vegetables, it neither tasted like beef nor pretended to be. We found it to be super satisfying and exploding with flavor.
w w w.f leishigs.com
CULINARY SCHOOL
DOUBLE FRIED
FRENCH FRIES BY SHIFRA KLEIN Serves: 6 This method is the secret behind the superb fries you find at many restaurants. If you take a bar seat at the famous Basil Pizza and Wine Bar in the Crown Heights neighborhood of Brooklyn, NY, you will have a firsthand view of this unique method. Besides being quicker to execute, partially cooking the fries (otherwise known as blanching) achieves a uniquely fluffy interior and crispy exterior, which makes the fry experience second to none. It’s quite simple to do at home, but requires some time and dedication.
NOTE: For accuracy, use a deep fry thermometer.
3 russet potatoes, unpeeled and scrubbed 3 cups vegetable oil Sea salt Prepare the Potatoes: Slice the potatoes into planks down the length of the potato, about ¼-inch in thickness. Stack the planks and cut into French fries. Keep cuts uniform so the potatoes cook evenly. Soak potatoes in a bowl of cold water for a minimum of 20 minutes. You can cover and soak overnight in the fridge. Drain and dry potatoes completely. First Fry: Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Heat oil in a heavy-bottomed 6-quart pot (like a Dutch oven) over medium heat until it reaches 300°F on a deep fry thermometer. Add a third of the potatoes into the oil and increase the heat to medium high, making sure to maintain the 300°F temperature. Stir occasionally with a skimmer or a large slotted spoon for 2 to 3 minutes, until potatoes soften (you should be able to cut them with the side of a spoon) and become creamier in color. Remove the fries before they begin to brown, shaking off any excess oil before transferring to the baking sheet. Arrange the fries in a single layer. Fry remaining 2 batches of potatoes in the same manner. Second Fry: Heat the oil until it reaches 375°F. Line another baking sheet with paper towels. Add a third of the potatoes into the oil and fry, stirring occasionally for 1 to 2 minutes, until they turn golden brown and begin to crisp. Transfer fries to the prepared baking sheet and sprinkle immediately with salt. Fry the remaining 2 batches of fries in the same manner, maintaining the 375°F temperature. Serve immediately. 12
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
HAVE FRIES? MAKE POUTINE! SEE PG. 58 FOR RECIPE.
w w w.f leishigs.com
The besT experience in TOWn At Town Appliance our experienced staff recommends ideal appliances to suit your lifest yle. You know what you’re looking for, we’ll help you find it.
WWW. TOWN APPLIANCE.COM
nOW in The FIVE TOWNS
Call 516.303.8338 ex t . 6010
732.364.5195
Conveniently Delivered and Installed
SUPPLIES
The Plastic with Perks By Dani Klein
O
ver the past decade, I’ve made it my mission to travel whenever possible, with international destinations often on my itinerary. Personally, I believe that bringing my family to new places is worth infinitely more than vacations that rely on amusement parks. The sole issue I had to overcome, however, was budget. Travel isn’t cheap, but it can be if you know what you’re doing.
• Accrue flexible credit card points, airline miles and hotel points via credit cards. Combining these tactics has enabled me to use relatively few points on already cheap fares, which has allowed me to fly my entire family abroad — and still have points leftover.
14
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
• Know which cards can earn you the maximum amount of points for each purchase you make. Certain cards give you extra points for traveling and dining out at restaurants, while other cards reward you when used at gas stations, grocery stores and others deliver bonus points when used via Apple Pay. It runs the gamut. • Get the best possible sign-up bonuses. Banks will entice you to sign up for their credit cards with various sign-up offers, which can range from 10,000 to 100,000 points. Understanding the value of the points being offered, how flexible they are for travel usage and what you need to do to earn the points after signing up are key to unlocking inexpensive, or even free, travel.
REACH OUT TO AN EXPERT
• Be flexible with where you’re willing to go and always look for the best deals. Sites such as DansDeals. com, TheFlightDeal.com and others are great at uncovering inexpensive flight deals to destinations around the globe. That’s how I’ve been able to visit Buenos Aires ($287 round trip) and Tel Aviv multiple times (best fare for $315 round trip). I'm also heading soon to Iceland ($330 round trip) and Madrid ($230 round trip).
CREDIT CARD POINTS
TRAVEL ON A BUDGET
Taking advantage of the credit card points strategy is not for everyone. For starters, you must have decent credit to be eligible for the right cards that can earn you the most points/miles. You must be diligent about paying off bills in full, otherwise the interest payments on your cards will not make the strategies worthwhile because you’ll be paying more to the banks than the points you’ll be earning. These are my primary strategies: • If you are interested in using credit card points but don’t have the time to deal with the logistics, there are experts you can reach out to. PEYD is one such company. PEYD is a leading credit card rewards and travel management provider, serving tens of thousands of clients and hundreds of businesses throughout the United States and Canada. Their mantra is to help customers navigate the credit card industry by advising them through the redemption of miles and points associated with the sea of rewards programs out there. They help clients understand what credit cards to utilize when making purchasing decisions for their company and the best ways to maximize those rewards based on their business type and travel needs. • PEYD also offers full-service travel agency services, specializing in discounted airfare and hotels. For more information visit www.getpeyd.com or call at (888) 404-PEYD (7393).
w w w.f leishigs.com
MY TOP CHOICES
For now, I’ll highlight a few of the top credit cards for travel purposes and why I recommend them. As always, do your own research before signing up for any card.
2. Free checked baggage. Holding one of these cards typically covers each flyer with at least 1 free checked bag, which can easily cover the card’s annual fee after a single flight. CHASE SAPPHIRE PREFERRED CARD/CHASE SAPPHIRE RESERVE CARD Anyone who has been collecting credit card points has one of these cards in their wallet. The Chase Ultimate Rewards® points system allows for flexible use of points, so you can redeem points for travel purchases at a discount or transfer them to a travel partner, such as a hotel or airline. Chase Sapphire Preferred Card: • $95 annual fee • Earns 2x points on travel and restaurants • Get 25% more value when redeemed on airfare, hotels, car rentals and cruises • Earn 60,000 bonus points after spending $4,000 in the first 3 months after account opens Chase Sapphire Reserve Card: • $450 annual fee
Note: The opinions expressed here are the author’s alone and do not reflect those of any bank, credit card issuer, airline or hotel chain. The information provided has not been reviewed, approved or otherwise endorsed by any of these entities.
• Earns 3x points on travel and restaurants • Get 50% more value when redeemed on airfare, hotels, car rentals and cruises • Earn 50,000 bonus points after spending $4,000 in the first 3 months after account opens • $300 annual credit toward travel purchases These Chase cards also provide a slew of other perks, including travel and purchase protections that I encourage you to investigate. It’s good to know what the card can help you with down the road. Visit https://creditcards.chase. com/airline-credit-cards to learn more about these Chase cards.
AMERICAN EXPRESS GOLD CARD Similar to the Chase cards, the American Express Membership Rewards® points system is also flexible with travel redemptions. The Gold Card is great for travelers and foodies alike, with the card earning 4x points at restaurants and U.S. supermarkets as well as 3x points when booking flights directly with the airline. • $250 annual fee • Earn 35,000 Membership Rewards points after spending $2,000 in the first 3 months after account opens • Annual airline fee credit up to $100 Although I value Chase’s points slightly more than Amex’s, I love American Express for the consumer protections I receive when using their cards to make important purchases like travel. It’s for that reason that I always keep both Chase and Amex cards in my wallet.
United Explorer: • $0 introductory annual fee for the first year, $95 thereafter • Earn 40,000 bonus miles after spending $2,000 in the first 3 months after account opens • $100 Global Entry or TSA Pre-Check fee credit • First checked bag is free
Visit https://www.theexplorercard.com/ to learn more about the United Explorer card.
Visit https://www.americanexpress.com/us/credit-cards/ card/gold-card/ to learn more about the Amex Gold Card. UNITED EXPLORER or JETBLUE PLUS Although airline credit cards are less flexible (you’re forced to use their airline with their points), they do have value in your wallet. I generally use airline credit cards for the following reasons: 1. Rich sign up bonuses. The points earned via signing up can help pay for multiple flights in one shot.
JetBlue Plus Card: • $95 annual fee • Earn 40,000 bonus miles after spending $1,000 in the first 3 months after account opens • First checked bag is free Visit https://www.jetbluepluscard.com/ to learn more about the JetBlue Plus Card
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
15
THE EXPERT
What is in your hand luggage? A
s a best-selling cookbook author, radio host, food personality and host of kosher Chopped competitions across the globe, Naomi Nachman, aka The Aussie Gourmet, travels almost as much as she is home. Born and raised in Australia and living in New York since college, Naomi’s travels have taken her across India, Israel, Australia, South Africa and across the United States. We asked Naomi to share her tips on traveling to destinations that don’t have much in the way of kosher options.
THE FOOD: 1. I bring Gefen noodle soup cups wherever I travel. They’re good as is - all you need is some boiling water - or amped up with creative additions like soy sauce packets, vacuum packed grilled chicken and additional frozen vegetables.
2. Packets of tuna and beef jerky are shelf-stable, loaded with protein and withstand any travel scenario. String cheese and individually wrapped American cheese are great dairy options for shorter trips.
3. Do some research in advance. There will likely be a Chabad house (or a few!) at your destination. Chabad websites are usually good resources for local food options. Oftentimes, Chabad houses have their own takeout options, restaurants and Shabbat meals that can be prearranged.
4. Food stays frozen in luggage underneath the plane even during long flights. It may be worth checking a piece of luggage to hold frozen or vacuum packed dinners (either store-bought or homemade). If your destination will have an oven, make sure to prepare the food in aluminum tins double wrapped in foil. Alternatively, pack your food in microwave-safe containers if your destination will only have a microwave. Many hotels are accommodating and will store your food in their freezer.
5. American supermarkets and small convenience stores across the country have lots of certified kosher products. For example, I found packaged hard-boiled eggs with an OU certification in the middle of Utah. Frozen vegetables, frozen French fries and canned goods (like beans, fruit, corn) are usually kosher and can provide substantial food in a pinch. Fresh fruits and vegetables can be found anywhere as well.
6. Always pack tons of snacks and food for long plane trips. Don’t rely on the airlines to come through; even if they do, the food may not taste good. Pack more in your carry-on than you think you’ll need. Air travel is unpredictable and you don’t want to be delayed AND hungry!
You can follow along on Naomi's trips and cookbook tours on Instagram (@NaomiNachman).
16
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
THE TOOLS: Depending on where you’re headed, bring a compact gadget that can “do it all.” A small George Foreman grill can be used to grill fresh protein and sauté vegetables. It can even be used to make eggs. If your luggage allows it, an Instant Pot is another travel favorite to cook up hearty meals in no time. A small sandwich maker is also convenient. Use the tools you’ve got. You can make a grilled cheese sandwich using a hotel iron. Bring foil to wrap the sandwich and press a hot iron over it. You can utilize a coffee kettle to boil water for instant oatmeal or soup cups.
D O W N LO A D T H E K O S H E R G P S A P P, WHICH SHOWS KOSHER OPTIONS IN YO U R S U R RO U N D I N G A R E AS.
w w w.f leishigs.com
Y O
U
A
A
Y
R E W
Pocono Shabbos Getaway
L F S E
info@leviweingarten.com
D
R
A
R
T A W G E
AT THE BEAUTIFUL SCRANTON HILTON Fine catering by Pocono Kosher
KOSHER DINING
HOSPITALITY
KIDS’ DAY CAMP
WINTER ACTIVITIES
Elegant glatt-kosher meals served in the Hilton’s grand ballroom*
Warm environment with uplifting tefilos, shiurim, and melave malka entertainment.
Children will have a blast all shabbos with activities and games galore.
Tons of local indoor and outdoor attractions for memorable family fun.
Three weekends to choose from:
DEC 27-29
JAN 24-26
JAN 31-FEB 2
Shabbos Chanukah
Parshas Va’eira
Parshas Bo
www.myPoconoKosher.com
2019
info@myPoconoKosher.com Scranton Hilton Under strict supervision of Chabad of the Abingtons
Check out our midweek program at Kalahari Resort Jan 2020
* Limited group/private dining available for simchas and family reunions
TRAVEL
a ci el nd The trip to Iceland that propelled the creation of 'YeahThat'sKosher'. BY DANI KLEIN
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
19
TRAVEL
L
et’s go back 11½ years. I had just purchased the original iPhone. It had a web browser, a camera, email access and little else.
My wife and I wanted to visit Croatia, but the flights were too expensive. We stumbled upon an affordable flight to Northern Europe with a 3-day stopover in Iceland and jumped on it. We were young, newly married, on a budget and in need of an adventure beyond our New York bubble. That trip changed my life. Our “stopover” in Iceland on the way to Sweden, Finland, Estonia and Denmark solidified my true love for all things travel, but it also exposed me to the challenges that we kosher travelers face when trekking the globe. The internet in 2008 was not what it is today. Planning a vacation as an observant, kosher traveler required a lot of research — and much of the information available was not useful or even correct. It was lacking nuance, a voice and personal advice. Finding kosher food outside of major cities like London, Paris, Miami, Los Angeles and so on proved futile. We brought a duffle bag of food with us and made plans to restock in Helsinki. After researching tirelessly, I realized that kosher travelers and diners like me needed a helpful online resource. During our travels, my motivation to build something useful was compounded by the trials and tribulations of finding closed kosher markets in the middle of a Monday in Helsinki, Finland; being unable to find a shul’s entrance on Friday night in Stockholm, Sweden (rampant antisemitism has led to shuls being unmarked and challenging to find); and needing to rely completely on food we’d brought with us while in Reykjavík, Iceland. That’s how
20
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
Clockwise from top left: Northern Lights, Aurora borealis at Kirkjufell mountains in winter. Godafoss, one of the most famous waterfalls in Iceland. Dettifoss waterfall at sunset, Europe's most powerful waterfall. The Blue Lagoon geothermal spa is one of the most visited attractions in Iceland.
w w w.f leishigs.com
TRAVEL
Keep seeking out new locations for your travels and family adventures. The world is so big and there is so much to see. Don’t let a lack of kosher food options at a location limit your travels.
YeahThatsKosher.com was born. My background in digital marketing and passion for geography helped make this website creation a natural solution for myself and like-minded travelers. Interestingly enough, the stopover and afterthought of our trip, Iceland, turned into the most exciting part of our trip. Iceland is only 5½ hours from New York and close to mainland Europe, but it has the feel of another planet. The landscape was spectacular — the raw, mostly untouched nature, the waterfalls and hot springs, the frigid North Atlantic winds and the endless days (being that our trip was during the summer, the sun never fully set). The otherworldly experience pushed me to return one day. Later this autumn, we’re finally going back to Iceland with our kids, who will be experiencing the country for the first time. Our trip will be made easier by the recent arrival of the island nation’s first rabbi since World War II, Rabbi Avi Feldman, who opened Iceland’s first Jewish Center, or Chabad House, in Reykjavík with his wife Mushky. We know we’ll still need to bring food along, but we’re covered just in case we run low. This time around, we plan to spend a few nights north of the capital to see some of the natural wonders and waterfalls in Iceland's landscape, hike through the Snæfellsnes peninsula and experience the Northern Lights from our hot tub. Peaking between September and March in Iceland, the Northern Lights are a naturally occurring phenomenon of vibrant blues, greens, yellows and reds that dance across the night’s sky. We also plan on spending Shabbat in the city with the Feldmans at Chabad and touring the Golden Circle (an amazing day of waterfalls and geysers) before hitting either the Blue Lagoon or Secret Lagoon hot springs. It might be 30ºF outside, but the water is always warm in Iceland. My advice to you is to keep seeking out new locations for your travels and family adventures. The world is so big and there is so much to see. Don’t let a lack of kosher food options at a location limit your travels. Expand your horizons, literally. With this issue in your hands and the plethora of travel websites on the web, you now have a multitude of great resources at your fingertips to help you plan any trip … and Miami will still be there next year. You can follow along on Dani’s trips and kosher restaurant excursions on Instagram (@YeahThatsKosher) and on his well-researched site www.YeahThatsKosher.com.
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
21
WHAT DOES PEYD
DO?
WE HELP OUR CLIENTS OPTIMIZE AIRLINE MILES & CREDIT CARD POINTS, AND TURN THEIR EVERYDAY S PEN DI N G I N TO CAS H A N D T RAV EL B E N E FI TS. LET US DO THE SAME FOR YOU! We are also a full service TRAVEL AGENCY, specializing in DISCOUNTED MILEAGE TICKETS and we can handle every aspect of your travel needs including AIRFARE, HOTELS, CAR RENTALS & AIRPORT VIP SERVICES. Our popular PAY WITH POINTS feature allows clients to pay for their reservations using Airline Miles and Credit Card Points.
CALL TODAY! 888.404.PEYD(7393) TRAVELWITHPEYD.COM | INFO@PEYDTRAVEL.COM
k pac
Ahe
o
e ( Ba h t f c
k)
ad
BACKPACKING
BY CHAYA RAPPOPORT You’d be right in thinking that backpacking isn’t the most luxurious travel method. For some, the word itself conjures images of rock-hard beds, muddy sandals and world-weary travelers. But for others, backpacking isn’t just a way to travel — it’s THE way to travel. With all of your essentials strapped to your back, you learn to embrace minimalism, strip life down to the basics and focus on the moments and experiences at hand. For backpackers, traveling isn’t about infinity pools and continental breakfasts — it’s about exploring new places, befriending locals and opening up to new experiences.
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
23
BACKPACKING
Get the Scoop Today, backpacking is more popular than ever. From students taking gap years, to 30-something digital nomads, to lawyers who quit their jobs to travel the world, you’ll find all kinds of people on the road, preaching the gospel of backpacking. That being said, there’s good backpacking and there’s better backpacking - it all comes down to being prepared. After a recent 3-month backpacking trip to Southeast Asia, where I traveled through Thailand, Vietnam and the Philippines, I learned a couple of things that I think every backpacker should know. Read on to get the scoop and see some of my highlights!
Itinerary Location: So you’ve been dying to travel and you’re ready to book a one-way ticket ... but to where? Let your budget and time help you determine where you end up. If you have a few weeks or months and you love learning about new cultures, you might want to consider Southeast Asia. If you’re short on time and like beaches and jungles, Central America might be a good pick. Want to stay closer to home but still feel like you’re getting away? Cuba could be a good choice. The options are endless.
Weather: The seasons are reversed in the Southern Hemisphere and monsoon season varies, even among the countries of Southeast Asia, so be sure to check the weather and build buffer days into your trip.
24
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
Route: The most frequently backpacked countries have well-known routes that backpackers traverse, such as the infamous “Gringo Trail” that spans several countries across Latin America. Although social media and the internet have, for better or worse, changed the way we travel, it’s certainly made it easier in this case, because you can find all the information you need online. Join Facebook groups, read online message boards and peruse blogs, then create your own itinerary based on your interests, how much time you have and geographical proximity of one location to the next. A plan is important, but don’t put too much stock in it. Part of the appeal of backpacking is that you can be flexible with time; I’ve planned to stay in places for just 2 days and ended up staying for a week.
Also, before you book a ticket, look at visa and ticket requirements. Some countries require proof of onward travel before letting you enter, so do your research.
Transportation: You shouldn’t plan down to the last taxi, but it’s smart to give some thought to transportation before you arrive. Many countries in South America and Southeast Asia offer relatively cheap cross-country flights on domestic airlines. Although it’s often least expensive to take buses and ferries from one destination to another, remember that time is money and sometimes a $50 flight that saves you 15 hours on a bus may be worth it. If you do plan on flying, remember that flights are cheaper when booked in advance. For ground transportation, apps are your friend. Google Maps and Maps.me (https://maps.me)
have saved me on more than one occasion, Uber is available internationally and taxi apps local to Southeast Asia, such as Grab (https://grab.com) and 12Go (https://12go.asia/en), are cheap, quick and invaluable. w w w.f leishigs.com
• good b ac k p a ck
BACKPACKING
Packing Backpack: Your backpack will be your lifeline, with everything you need throughout your trip, so make sure it’s the right one. It should be lightweight and roomy enough to hold whatever you need for the trip, plus a bit more (around 95 liters). The material should be rip- and water-resistant as well as breathable and the waist and sternum straps should be adjustable. My advice is to try the backpack on in person so you can establish if it fits exactly right.
Clothing: When it comes to packing your bag, keep it basic but pack smart. Here are the basics that I recommend:
m i w • s suit
2 pairs of pajamas, one for colder weather and one for warmer nights 8 pairs of socks/underwear, in case you can’t do laundry for more than a week Swimsuit, because even if you’re going to a colder location, your hotel may have a pool 4 sets of tops and pants 1 sweater for colder weather (and any cold weather accessories like hats, jackets, coats, gloves, scarves) 1 pair of leggings or hiking pants
• trave Toiletri l es
• pajamas
2 pairs of shoes, such as Teva or Source Sandals (known as Shoresh Sandals in Hebrew) 1 pair of heavyduty sneakers or Blundstone boots 1 pair of hiking boots for more strenuous activities (although if you’re not a regular hiker and just want them for your trip, boots can usually be rented)
Toiletries: Pack travel-size toothbrush and toothpaste, facewash and moisturizer, shampoo and conditioner, deodorant, sunscreen, aloe vera, bug spray, razors and nail clippers. Although you can buy basics at your destination, they’re usually expensive and you don’t want to rely on chance.
Extras: Use packing cubes to keep everything organized. Pack the heaviest items at the bottom of your backpack and work your way up to the items you’ll need to access more readily. I usually travel with an additional little backpack with all of my extras, including: Neck pillow (trust me, it’ll save you on flights and long bus rides) Eye mask (ditto) Earphones Cell phone Charger Backup battery (important!) Travel adaptors Wallet Passport Sunglasses
Packing well and being organized is essential to a smooth trip. NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
25
BACKPACKING
Safety Insurance: Sure, you might have the best luck in the world, but you don’t want to take chances when traveling abroad. Despite your best efforts, anything could happen: a motorcycle accident, missing luggage or a stolen camera. Invest in travel insurance so you’re protected no matter what happens. Buy a policy early and ensure all of your planned destinations and activities are covered (World Nomads at https://www.worldnomads.com has a wide range of policies). It may be a cliché but it’s true: If you can’t afford travel insurance, you can’t afford to travel.
Medical: Before traveling to a developing country, check with your doctor to see if you need any vaccines. Pack a small first aid kit for emergencies. Should the need arise, you may not always be near a doctor or clinic and access to equipment isn’t a given, especially in developing countries. A basic first aid kit should include: Hand sanitizer Bandages Gauze Antihistamines
e l t t e k c • electri
d e n n a • c fish
Antibacterial ointment Ibuprofen Antibiotics Rehydration tablets
Depending on your destination, you may also want to include probiotics, antimalarial pills, altitude medicine, Dramamine® and more.
Most importantly, use common sense. Learn a few words in the local language, which will be invaluable for getting around and asking for assistance. Also, do some research on the people and culture of the location you’re visiting. Keep spare cash in a few separate places other than your wallet and keep a few extra copies of important documents, just in case. Don’t go out alone at night, keep an eye on your drinks when out at a bar and don’t walk around with valuables in plain sight. 26
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
w w w.f leishigs.com
d n a s t • nuried fruit d SO
• uten
Bring your own: Keeping kosher while traveling is much easier than it sounds — it all comes down to a bit of planning. Structure your meals around protein; cans of tuna, sardines and beef jerky are my go-to choices. And if you’re not a big canned fish fan, it’s because you haven’t been eating it right; try it drizzled with good olive oil, fresh lemon juice and flaky salt. Look for seasoned tuna pouches or cans such as FinerFin, available on Amazon. Supplement meals with avocados, fruits and vegetables from local markets. For snacks and hikes, bring protein bars, granola bars and bags of instant oatmeal. Buy nuts and dried fruit at your destination.
T R AV
Thinking of traveling solo? Congrats! It can be intim-
sils
Tools: An electric pot (a small
Food
O
EL
L
BACKPACKING
instant pot or actual electric kettle) is a great investment (make sure it’s adaptable with international electricity); although not all hostels or hotels have kitchens you can cook in, you’ll find an outlet almost anywhere. You can use it to cook eggs, rice and even pasta. Plus, the water boils in minutes. Consider bringing collapsible bowls and plates and a reusable utensil set, too.
Chabad: If you plan on visiting a local Chabad, call ahead to confirm they’re open. Many Chabad houses not only have restaurants or kitchens, but they also have stocked shelves with kosher crackers, ramen, bread and more. If you're going somewhere remote, it’s always a sweet gesture to ask the shluchim (emissaries) if you can bring them anything from the States.
Food safety: Wherever you travel, always make sure that the produce is washed well and the water is safe to drink, which includes ice cubes and drinking water in restaurants, especially in Asia and South America.
idating, especially if you’re used to traveling with a partner. But instead of fearing loneliness, view solo travel as an opportunity to spend quality time with yourself. Bring a journal to write in, take yourself out for dinner or spend hours at the beach reading. The beauty of solo travel is that you get to make your own schedule, so you can do the things you like, on your time.
Meet people: The people you meet while traveling are one of the best things about backpacking, so use your solo time as an opportunity to connect with like-minded travelers and make new friends. It’s actually easier to meet new people when you’re on your own; without the safety net of a friend, you’re forced to step out of your comfort zone and forge new connections. If you’re looking to meet other travelers, take group tours, sign up for classes (local dance or cooking classes are always fun options) and stay at hostels. Hostels are a great way to meet other travelers and, chances are, they’ll be looking to make friends just like you. Be friendly, kind and helpful. A conversation can turn into hiking together, which can turn into friends for life — or at least a buddy for the rest of the trip. Take a chance!
Safety: It’s true that there is safety in numbers, so when traveling solo, exercise a little more caution than you would normally. Research a new destination before heading there; find out which neighborhoods are safe and which are better to avoid. Always keep family and friends apprised of your itinerary, check in with them daily and keep the number and address of your local embassy on hand.
Trust your gut. Traveling solo will teach you that you’re independent, capable and trustworthy. If it feels off, it probably is. NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
27
BACKPACKING
Highlights There were countless incredible moments throughout my trip to Southeast Asia, from motorbiking across the mountains of Northern Vietnam on the border of China, to diving with schools of fish in Thailand, to surfing with locals in the Philippines. But some moments and places stand out as extra special. If you’re thinking of visiting any of these countries, here are my recommended must-sees:
If you like trekking … visit Sapa, Vietnam. A 5 1/2 hour bus ride from Vietnam’s capital city of Hanoi is Sapa, a verdant paradise of sprawling rice terraces and beautiful villages set into the cool, misty mountains. Sign up for a guided trek or, for a really unique experience, stay in one of the many homestays run by local villagers and go trekking with a Vietnamese “mama.” You’ll hike past villages with ethnic minorities and meet curious children, come across yaks, find beautiful hidden waterfalls to cool down in and help local farmers plant rice, all while making friends with local villagers and learning about their culture firsthand. If you're really into trekking, you might want to climb the nearby Mount Fansipan, which is known as the highest mountain in Indochina and is more than 10,000 feet tall. It can take a full week to summit and the views are unparalleled.
28
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
w w w.f leishigs.com
BACKPACKING
If you like relaxing … visit Pai, Thailand. Set in the mountains of Thailand, around 4 hours (with the local, non air conditioned buses) or 2-3 (with air conditioned, touristfriendly buses) from the region’s largest city of Chiang Mai, is Pai — aka a backpacker’s paradise. It’s the kind of place you’ll end up staying longer than originally planned- everyone does. There’s a lot to do in Pai, from walking through the street food market at night, to visiting impressive local temples, to learning how to ride a motorbike. If you’re adventurous, you’ll love hiking up Pai Canyon to watch the sunset, slathering on mud from the Sai Ngam Hot Spring and exploring the waterfalls all around. But the best thing to do in Pai is simply relax, drink a fruit shake and get to know the artists and travelers that Pai attracts.
If you like diving … visit Malapascua Island, Philippines. if you’re an avid diver, don’t miss Malapascua, a tiny, idyllic island just off the northernmost tip of Cebu Island. It feels remote — you’ll need to take a bus, ferry and boat to get there — and there’s no fresh water on the island, so get ready to shower in salt water. But that just adds to its charm. The beaches are sandy white, while bright flowers and colorful houses dot the island. Plus, the locals are friendly and helpful. Of course, the main draw is the diving. Malapascua is the only place in the world where pelagic thresher sharks are consistently seen. At 4:30 a.m., when the sun is just beginning to announce itself, a dive boat will take you to the Monad Shoal dive site, where thresher sharks gather for food, but also to be cleaned by wrasse fish. Diving with the large, graceful sharks in the stillness of the deep blue waters feels like a dream; by the time you surface at 6 a.m., with the sun shining brightly in the sky, you’ll start to think it might have been a dream. The dive goes down 100 feet (30 meters), so you’ll need to have your PADI Advanced Open Water Diver Certification. If you don’t, no worries; there are plenty of other great dive sites in the area that just require a PADI Open Water Certification.
Chaya Rappoport is the blogger, baker and picture taker behind retrolillies.com. You can find her sharing seasonal recipes and delicious desserts on her blog and postings snaps of her day to day cooking + baking on her Instagram account, @retrolillies. NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
29
BACKPACKING
These recipes are inspired by Chaya’s backpacking trip to Thailand, Vietnam and the Philippines. The flavors and ingredients are those easily found in most homes
Green Papaya Salad
in this region.
30
Serves: 6 Also known as papaya atchara, this salad is a great replacement to a traditional slaw, which is the perfect complement to grilled meat or chicken.
Fleishigs
3 pounds green papaya, peeled, seeded and julienned ¼ cup kosher salt 2 carrots, julienned 1 large onion, thinly sliced 10 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2-inch piece ginger, peeled and julienned 2 cups white vinegar 1 ⅓ cups granulated sugar Salt and pepper, to taste NOVEMBER 2019
Place the julienned papaya in a large bowl and add the salt. Mix until well distributed. Cover the bowl and refrigerate overnight (the salt will slightly dehydrate the papaya). Place the papaya in a strainer and rinse with water. Using cheesecloth (or any thin dish towel), place the rinsed papaya
in the cloth and squeeze to extract the liquid. Place the papaya back into the bowl and combine with carrots, onion, garlic and ginger. Heat the vinegar in a saucepan over mediumhigh heat. Bring to a boil, then add the sugar and stir until dissolved. Turn off the heat and allow the liquid to cool. Place the salad in a large air-tight jar and pour the liquid over it.
Seal the jar and refrigerate for at least 5 days before serving. Season with salt and pepper, if needed. Serve cold.
w w w.f leishigs.com
BACKPACKING
Lechon Manok Serves: 4 This dish is the Filipino take on the American rotisserie chicken. It is traditionally roasted on a spit, but we have adapted that method for the home cook. It can also be made using chicken parts. However, roasting the chicken whole makes for a nice presentation. Classically served with a papaya salad, this delicacy is a flavor explosion. 1 whole chicken 4-inch piece ginger 5 cloves garlic 1 medium red onion, quartered 5 dried bay leaves 1 stalk lemongrass, slightly crushed with a rolling pin (discard the ends) 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 cups lemon lime soda ½ cup teriyaki sauce 2 bunches scallions, halved (discard the ends) In a blender or food processor, add ginger, garlic, onion, bay leaves, lemongrass, salt and black pepper. Add the soda and teriyaki sauce and pulse until combined. Place the chicken inside a Ziploc bag. Pour the marinade over the chicken. Seal and refrigerate overnight. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Remove the chicken from the bag and place in a roasting pan. Stuff with scallions. Roast for 45 minutes, until cooked through. Transfer to a serving plate. Serve with green papaya salad.
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
31
Kosher Destination
weddings BY CHANA ZELDA WEISS
Wedding of Chaya S. & Noach Tanenbaum Photo by Sebi Messina Photography @sebimessinaphotography
32
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
w w w.f leishigs.com
M
y sister Chaya always dreamed of an extraordinary and memorable wedding, but when Noach proposed last winter, the price tag of a large, extravagant
wedding was out of the question for the young couple. Getting married in Mexico seemed like a crazy idea at first, but slowly the thought of an intimate affair on a beautiful beach became more and more appealing.
opening photo
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
33
t s La
June, 75 of Chaya and Noach’s family members and closest friends gathered for their wedding in Cancun, Mexico. Many of us booked rooms at the hotel right next door to a local kosher restaurant and café, which meant long, lazy brunches followed by relaxing family time at the pool. The wedding itself was a simple beachfront affair, peppered by reminders of local culture, like mariachi band entertainment and churros for dessert. Breathtaking water views served as the perfect photo backdrop. Although I have attended more weddings than I can count, this one was unlike any other. Destination weddings have been popular for decades, but for a kosher wedding, between the food, the officiating rabbi and the need for a mechitza (partition) and chuppah (traditional wedding canopy), it seemed like there were just too many hurdles to cross. However, with new kosher restaurants popping up all over the world, as well as event coordinators who specialize in kosher destination weddings, it has become a feasible option to celebrate your big day in an extraordinary location.
Why Choose A Destination Wedding? Although it seems like an extravagant choice, a destination wedding can actually be a budgetfriendly option for a newly engaged couple. A naturally beautiful backdrop means less money spent on floral arrangements and decor. A beachfront or tropical setting lends itself to a more casual vibe than your classic big-city ballroom wedding. Additionally, many services and amenities are significantly cheaper in other countries, although that can vary greatly depending on the destination. “Mexico is a very 34
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
Wedding of Shirelle & Meir Krinsky
w w w.f leishigs.com
KOSHER DESTINATION WEDDINGS the world, it’s an opportunity for a shared vacation many would never have planned otherwise. Family can stay for days following the wedding, treating the new couple like a true king and queen and celebrating Sheva Brachot (the week following the wedding) in style. “Come a few days early, so you have time to relax and get into the mood,” advises Vivi Meer of MexiKosher Weddings. “The bride and her family are so much more calm once they have spent some time together; with nothing to do but relax at the beach, the wedding becomes a much more enjoyable experience. That alone makes the whole trip worth it.” Of course, the cost can range dramatically, depending on how much the couple or their parents plan to cover. Some couples will pay for just the wedding itself, leaving guests to foot the bill for their own airfare, accommodations and meals. This significantly reduces the financial burden on the couple, but it does so by offsetting much of the cost onto their guests. “One of the challenges of a destination wedding is how much you are asking of your guests,” says Noah Lang of Kosher Concierge. “Instead of just asking for a few hours of their time, you’re asking them to pay for the trip and take several days off of work to attend the wedding,” he adds. Make sure they are on board, financially and logistically, before booking your event. Also keep in mind that the trade-off may be fewer wedding gifts. On the other range of the spectrum, the wedding hosts might arrange and pay for meals before and after the big event (perhaps a necessity in locations where kosher food is not as readily available) and even accommodations as well. This can get quite pricey, but gives your guests a lavish, all-inclusive experience.
Go with the Flow: Instead of trying to transport the wedding you would throw in your hometown, lean into the unique and exotic environment of the destination itself. This might mean simpler attire (who wants to wear a heavy sequined gown on the beach, anyway?) and food (no one is traveling for a premium steak they can order in their hometown restaurant). Local cuisine will be more readily available, more affordable and definitely more memorable. Whether it’s empanadas and churros in Mexico, artichokes and risotto in Italy, or pad thai and khao soi in Thailand, unique ethnic dishes will flavor (pun intended!) your whole event with an exotic feel.
affordable option, while a wedding in Italy is a luxury experience,” says Pamela Strauss-Goldman of Wedaways Travel. Only close family and friends are likely to spend the money and time to attend, which means a lower catering bill as well. “Getting married in an exotic location means a leaner guest list, because you don’t feel obligated to invite 250 of your acquaintances and community members,” Pamela adds. Whether you’re traveling across the world or just a few hours away, jetting to a new location turns the wedding from a mere hours-long event into a unique experience of days-long, quality bonding time. With large families sometimes spread all over
“Make sure to have realistic expectations,” adds Noah. “People think of destination weddings as a massive project when it really is quite doable, but you have to be flexible. Sometimes things don’t go as planned, but an event planner can handle those issues as they arise so you can relax and enjoy your event.” Looking back, Chaya says her wedding was everything she had hoped it would be. “Getting married in Mexico made it such an intimate event and it really gave me the chance to spend time with everyone who came. It gave me and my family an opportunity to spend a whole weekend together without having to worry about any of the wedding details.” Planning a destination wedding can be a project if you source all your vendors yourself, or a breeze if you hire an event coordinator to do it for you, but one thing is certain: it will be an experience that you and your guests will never forget.
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
35
Highlights
location
KOSHER DESTINATION WEDDINGS
Mexico
No other destination could capture the significance of a Jewish wedding quite like our homeland. Choosing a wedding in Israel will imbue your special day with a sense of holiness and meaning. From the lush hills of the Galil or the crystal clear beaches of Tel Aviv to the ancient stone streets of Jerusalem, the beauty and diversity in Israel is incredible. Of course, kosher food awaits you at every corner (and gas station!).
l e a r Is
36
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
Mexico is the most popular choice for kosher destination weddings because it is relatively close and affordable, yet still offers incredible beaches, a warm climate and charming, coloful culture. Kosher food is readily available, both for the wedding itself and at several restaurants for the duration of your stay, as well as other Jewish services and affordable babysitters.
Photo by @yoninaevents
w w w.f leishigs.com
Resource Guide
THE KOSHER CONCIERGE Offering concierge services for your kosher needs, for any type of event, anywhere in the world. Contact: Noah Lang www.the-kosherconcierge.com
Italy
Facebook & Instagram @thekosherconcierge Italy is filled with communities, rich culture, art and history. Magnificent architecture, vineyards and beautiful gardens offer a most picturesque backdrop for your wedding. Choose a castle-like venue for a true fairy-tale wedding with authentic kosher Italian cuisine.
WEDAWAYS Facilitating destination weddings with a curated list of the world’s best destinations and venues. Contact: Pamela Strauss Goldman www.wedaways.com Facebook: Wedaways Instagram: @wedawaystravel pamela@wedaways.com
MEXIKOSHER WEDDINGS Coordinating affordable weddings in Cancun and nearby areas with extensive on-the-ground experience in the region. Contact: Vivi Meer www.mexikosherweddings.com Instagram: @mexikosherweddings mexikosherweddings@gmail.com
Thailand
The vibrant landscape, exotic flavors, lively atmosphere and friendly locals make Thailand a unique experience that is well worth the trip. Explore quaint fishing villages and ancient ruins, or head to the lush coastal landscapes with coral reefs and waterfalls, perfect for swimming and adventurous water sports. Kosher restaurants and grocery stores can be found in several of the major cities, including Chiang Mai, Koh Samui and Phuket. Chana Zelda Weiss is a full-time mom of 3, part-time program administrator and freelance food editor in Pomona, New York who loves to cook and entertain. You can find her and her sister DL on Instagram @thosesisterswhocook.
973-296-5337
YONINA EVENTS Planning luxurious events in Israel, with Anglo-Israeli staff members who specialize in combining local knowledge with an understanding of the diverse expectations of people from abroad. Contact: Yonina Spiegelman www.yoninaevents.com Instagram: @yoninaevents yonina@yoninaevents.com 054-210-9997
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
37
TOP 5: CRUISES C
Gabriel Boxer, aka The Kosher Guru, a travel and restaurant pro, shares his “Top 5” most memorable experiences in a specific category. This month, it’s all about cruising.
ruising has been a vacation go-to for many years. Avid cruise fans consider cruises the easiest and most affordable family vacation. Cruises cut out the hassle of airports and allow you to explore different islands, countries and cities all while unpacking just once. If you love the beach and turquoise waters, the Caribbean will be a perfect choice. Prefer nature, wildlife and need to cool down in the summer? Alaska is right up your alley. If touring and sight-seeing is what you aim to gain on your travels, then book a cruise to the Mediteranean, Western Europe or the Greek Isles. There’s a destination for everyone.
Just a few decades ago, a kosher cruise did not exist. Those looking to enjoy this unique vacation on a ship had to pack an extra suitcase of food to sustain a family for a week. For those who love the “one stop shop” entertainment and travel opportunities a cruise offers, it was well worth it. Fortunately, today you can have it all with various kosher cruise programs that include endless kosher food along with minyanim, shiurim and Jewish entertainment. Long gone are the days of airline-style, double wrapped food. Here I share some kosher cruise experiences to enhance your next family vacation.
1 38
Fleishigs
KOSHERICA takes kosher to another level. Beyond acclaimed gourmet meals designed by world class chefs, Kosherica provides their customers with top names in music, entertainment, world renowned speakers, specialized Jewish excursions and concierge customer service. Kosherica spares no expense in using the highest quality ingredients and never compromises on hashgacha. Kosherica uses their own equipment and china. Their programs sail to multiple destinations and take place on highly rated ships like Norwegian and Royal Caribbean, to name a few. Kosherica recently opened an affordable cruise line division for budget sailings. www.Kosherica.com
NOVEMBER 2019
2
DESTINATIONS BY YOSSI ZABLOCKI provides fully kosher experiences at affordable price ranges. The programs include gourmet kosher meals and tea rooms, minyanim, entertainment and speakers. I had the privilege to host my own Kosher Foodie cruise this past summer in Alaska. Working behind the scenes for months prior and being involved in the customer service was the most rewarding aspect. There is a lot that goes on to ensure a customer’s comfort and full satisfaction from the moment they sign on to a Destinations program. I also enjoyed their recent European cruise, which stopped in France, Spain and Italy. We were provided with an exclusive tour bus and knowledgeable tour guide who shared a wealth of information on Jewish history. www.destinations613.com
w w w.f leishigs.com
3
KOSHER RIVERBOAT CRUISES provides a 5-star luxury cruise experience through some of the greatest waterways in the world, with a focus on Jewish history. Some of their cruises include the Mississippi River (New Orleans), Mekong River (Vietnam and Cambodia) and the Seine River (France). The entire boat is kosher and the trip includes all tours, open bars, fabulous entertainment, lectures, special guests, airport transfers and and gourmet food. www.kosherrivercruise.com
4
NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE is catching on to the large kosher market by recently offering kosher meals on their regular cruises at no added cost. Fresh food brought in by reputable caterers will be prepared and served and kosher wine will be available for purchase. Meals include an appetizer, entrée, 2 sides and dessert. Shabbos will include challah, a choice of red or white wine and rooms to light candles and pray. Make sure to inquire in advance, as meals are specially ordered; the cruise ships do not stock extra kosher meals. www.ncl.com/il/en/kosher-programme
5
BACKPACKING
ROYAL CARIBBEAN will have a pilot run of fresh kosher meals on 2 of their major Caribbeanbound ships this January, Allure of the Seas and Harmony of the Seas. The kosher meals will be prepared in separate dining rooms and will include breakfast, lunch and dinner. All the food will be supervised under a Mashgiach; the dairy will be chalav yisrael and meat will be Glatt kosher. The fresh kosher dining package must be arranged 4 weeks prior to sail. Meals will cost $25 per day for adults and $12.50 per day for kids ages 5-12. Kids 4 and under will be free. With prices this affordable, I am sure the pilot run will be a success and will expand to other ships and weeks. www.royalcaribbean.com
If you’re still on the fence on how to make your family’s vacation memorable, take my advice and keep it simple by booking one of these cruises. You’ll ensure a great time for all ages. With so many affordable cruise lines providing kosher meals going to exotic destinations, you’ll be hooked. Disclaimer: Fleishigs Magazine is in no way endorsing the kashrut of these cruises. Consult with your local Rabbi before booking.
FOLLOW THE KOSHER GURU on Instagram & Facebook @kosherguru, on Twitter @thekosherguru, his blog at www.thekosherguru.com, or subscribe to his YouTube channel. Tune in to “The Nosh” (a kosher foodie and restaurant radio show on 620AM in the NYC area) with Kosher Guru airing every Thursday evenings at 9:30 P.M. You can also check out his popular Facebook group @KosherGuru’sKosherNation. NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
39
EXPAND YOUR HORIZONS 5 UNDER-THE-RADAR CITIES TO VISIT THIS YEAR BY DANI KLEIN RECIPES BY FLEISHIGS TEST KITCHEN
Panama • see page 42
New Orleans • see page 48
Buenos Aires • see page 52
Montreal • see page 56
Rome • see page 60
A
lthough we appreciate the convenience that kosher-centric cities like Miami, Los Angeles and Manhattan have to offer, (check out our upcoming December issue for more on Miami), we decided to team up with Dani Klein of YeahThatsKosher.com to share some underthe-radar cities that have a lot to offer in terms of adventure, attractions and, most importantly, kosher food. We’ve chosen to feature Panama, which boasts dozens of kosher restaurants; New Orleans, which Dani declares the new “winter vacation on a budget” spot; Buenos Aires, the kosher meat capital of the world; Montreal, considered the “Paris” of North America; and Rome, the hottest city to visit in Europe (food, Jewish history, culture).
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
41
O
P
5 T
1
2
IN BRIEF:
1
There are about 15,000-20,000 Jews in Panama, of which an estimated 5,000 are observant, and there are over 3 dozen restaurants, 5 shuls and 3 mikvahs, as well as large kosher supermarkets (Super Kosher) and delis. Panama uses the U.S. dollar as legal currency so it’s easy for Americans to shop around but Panama isn’t necessarily as cheap as other international destinations (such as Buenos Aires). Most dairy restaurants are not chalav yisrael, so keep that in mind too.
Panama Panama may not be the first place that
3
comes to mind when thinking about kosher travel destinations, but the hot tropical country is actually a boon
NOT TO BE MISSED
to kosher travelers.
42
Fleishigs
1 Panama City’s modern skyline is a must-see.
NOVEMBER 2019
2 The Panama Canal, which connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean, is a key conduit for international maritime trade in Panama.
3 3. The historic district of Panama, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
4 The archaeological site of Panamá Viejo, also known as Panamá la Vieja, is the ruins of the old Panama City.
WHERE TO EAT: Not only will you not go hungry in Panama, you will dine lavishly at high-end kosher restaurants, bakeries and can even find a kosher Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf at Tocumen International Airport (aka PTY, Panama’s airport).
MUST VISIT: Panama is hot year-round, so there isn’t necessarily a bad time to go, but when we say hot, we mean very hot and humid. For those needing an escape from the city, there are catering and travel agency services there to assist you in getting kosher meals to the country’s beach and resort areas, including the Bocas del Toro Archipelago near the border of Costa Rica, as well as the San Blas Islands, an archipelago in the Caribbean where cruise ships often stop. While you’re exploring Panama City, make sure to venture out to the Panama Canal to experience a piece of American history and innovation in Central America. The historic colonial town of Casco Viejo in Panama City is also worth visiting.
One luxurious kosher restaurant to note is Aria, which serves tapas, Asian dishes and mixed drinks, all in a beautifully designed space. The restaurant has an extensive tapas menu, which includes standouts like empanadas, tuna crispy rice, sweet and spicy baby corn, New York beef carpaccio, salmon tartare and Aria’s signature ceviche. The Asian wok menu is also worth trying.
4
LEAH LOKSEN (@SALONLEAH) SHARES HER RECOMMENDATIONS Leah Loksen, proprietor of Salon Leah, is also well versed in all things food and has recently traveled to Panama. We asked her to share her favorite spots. There is a nice variety of Israeli-style restaurants, most notably Prime Grill (meat) and Pita-Pan Kosher (dairy). Kava Sushi Bar has a very NYC vibe and is a great dairy spot. Lula by Darna and Darna’s Bread Co. were my favorite meat restaurants. I heard great things about La Spezia Pizzería, a brick oven pizza spot and Forever Yogurt, which offers some really good ice cream, is perfect on a hot day. Jeffrey’s Bakery is a basic café and bakery that makes a great option for brunch.
SHABBOS IN PANAMA: The JW Marriott Panama (previously the Trump Ocean Club International Hotel and Tower) offers a variety of rentals and is close to a local shul. All shul visits must be preapproved for security purposes, so make sure to arrange a spot before Shabbat. You will have to bring your passport with you in order to enter.
5
5 Isla Pajaros, or Island of Birds, in the Bocas del Toro Archipelago is a birdwatcher’s paradise.
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
43
T
O
P
5
Panama
RECIPES INSPIRED BY PANAMA GRAPEFRUIT CEVICHE Serves: 4 This refreshing, nutritious dish comes together in minutes and also serves as an excellent kiddush option, since it can prepared fresh in the morning but is also good when made in advance.
1 pound Chilean sea bass, cut into ½-inch chunks 1 grapefruit, supremed ⅓ cup lime juice ¼ cup grapefruit juice 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 1 jalapeño, finely diced ⅓ cup finely minced fresh cilantro, parsley or mint (plus more for garnish) 1 teaspoon kosher salt Plantain chips, for serving Combine all ingredients together in a bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 4-12 hours. Garnish with more herbs and serve chilled with plantain chips.
44
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
Serve with plantain chips, tortilla chips or crackers.
DE NADA FOR THESE EMPANADAS. BEEF EMPANADAS Serves: 12 Popular in South American countries like Panama and Buenos Aires, these empanadas are great as a snack, side dish or dinner. Serve them with tahini, ranch, chimichurri (see pg. 72) or barbecue sauce. We suggest making a large batch, freezing and baking when the time is right.
1 tablespoon grapeseed oil 1 pound ground beef 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 medium red onion, diced 1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced 2 tablespoons ground cumin 1 tablespoon sweet paprika ½ tablespoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 cup low-sodium chicken stock or broth 2 teaspoons sugar ½ cup green olives, finely chopped 24 mini puff pastry squares or rounds, defrosted
Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the beef, breaking it up with a spoon, until browned but not completely cooked through, about 6-8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a medium bowl with a slotted spoon, leaving as much fat in the pan as possible. Reduce heat to medium and add the onion and bell pepper; stir until tender, about 6-8 minutes. Add cumin, paprika, oregano and cayenne and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add chicken stock and reserved beef along with any accumulated
juices to the pan. Stir in the sugar. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring and scraping up any browned bits until most of the liquid is evaporated, about 15-20 minutes; taste and season with more salt and black pepper, if needed. Stir in olives. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl, cover and chill for about 3 hours. Preheat oven to 400°F. Remove 6 puff pastry rounds from the package and arrange on a work surface. Place 1-2 tablespoons of filling in the center of each round, making sure not to overfill.
Fold the dough over the filling and pinch edges to seal. Using a fork, crimp edges. Transfer empanadas to a parchment-lined sheet pan, leaving 1-inch of space between each empanada. Repeat with remaining dough (you can fit about 12 empanadas on each pan). Bake empanadas, rotating pan halfway through, until they’re golden brown and slightly darker around the edges, about 25-35 minutes.
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
45
O
P
5 T
2 1
MUST VISIT:
New Orleans New Orleans is already an established travel
When exploring New Orleans, visiting and experiencing the French Quarter is a must, especially for music and alcohol aficionados, but there’s more to the city than that. Riding on the city’s old trolley system and taking in the unique residential architecture is an activity on its own. Drive out to one of the area’s swamps to ride an airboat and find alligators, wild pigs and other wildlife unique to the Bayou region. We enjoyed our tour with Cajun Encounters, but if you go during the cooler months, make sure to wear an extra layer for this trip as the speed boats add extra wind chill.
destination for most Americans, especially
3
for those who love to imbibe. But there’s so much more to NOLA than drinking, even for kosher travelers. The city (suburbs included) is home to a few kosher eateries that will keep you more than satisfied. NOLA is a great kosher winter vacation that
NOT TO BE MISSED
won’t break the bank.
46
Fleishigs
1 Ride the Steamboat Natchez, which offers great views of the the city on a 2-hour cruise along the Mississippi River.
NOVEMBER 2019
2 Preservation Hall in the French Quarter is a kidfriendly jazz venue that teaches kids and adults about the city's jazz roots.
3 Audubon Aquarium of the Americas offers great exhibits that feature the region's multiple sea life habitats.
WHERE TO EAT: Some kosher highlights include New Orleans’s famous Café Du Monde (not chalav yisrael), which serves only two things: chicory coffee and pillowy puffs of sugary beignets, the latter being some of the best fried dough you’ll ever consume. Rimon, located in Tulane University’s Hillel, is a seasonal, farm-totable meat restaurant that sources its meat from Grow & Behold. Rimon also offers many vegan and vegetarian options. We’ve visited many Hillels on many campuses and the food at Rimon was great! Having fleishigs with breakfast is definitely out of the ordinary for us, but it was amazing nonetheless. Kosher Cajun New York Deli & Grocery is a NY-style deli that also serves some local Cajun classics like jambalaya and a po’ boy made with “kosher shrimp.” You can also stock up on kosher groceries while there.
4
Casablanca is a fantastic meat restaurant that serves Moroccan and Middle Eastern cuisine. The slow cooked lamb, Moroccan meatballs and mujadara (a rice with lentils dish) are fresh, authentic and satisfying.
SHABBAT IN NEW ORLEANS: Spending Shabbat in New Orleans can be tough if you’re near the French Quarter. I recommend staying near Tulane University, which is home to one of the area’s Chabad houses, but also to magnificent homes that can be rented via Airbnb. Dvash Catering and Casablanca Restaurant both offer full Shabbat takeout meals and are certified under Louisiana Kashrut Committee.
4 Mardi Gras World is an integral part of the past and present of the “Big Easy." This is the venue where Mardi Gras floats are made, reused, stored and displayed.It’s a funky place that all tourists should visit.
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
47
T
O
P
5
new orleans
RECIPES INSPIRED BY NEW ORLEANS NEW ORLEANS FRIED CHICKEN Serves: 8 One of the most famous non-kosher restaurants in New Orleans is a fried chicken joint called Willie Mae’s Scotch House. The word online is that the secret to its worldrenowned fried chicken is a cola brine that does something magical to the chicken. We created our own version based on the original recipe by Chef John Currence.
Pat chicken dry with paper towels and place in a large Ziploc bag. Prepare the brine by combining the cola, hot sauce and salt; pour into the bag with chicken. Refrigerate overnight. Remove chicken from brine and pat dry. Heat 2-inches of oil in a large cast iron pan to 375°F. Create a wet dredge by combining the egg, water,
salt, black pepper, paprika, onion powder, garlic powder and flour in a shallow dish. Place chicken in the wet dredge until fully coated. Fry for 9 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot.
2 chickens, cut into eighths 4 cups cola soda ¼ cup hot sauce ¼ cup kosher salt 1 egg 2 cups water 2 tablespoons kosher salt 2 freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon smoked paprika 1 tablespoon onion powder 1 tablespoon garlic powder 2 cups all-purpose flour Vegetable or peanut oil, for frying
CHICKENS DON’T FLY, BUT THIS ONE WILL.
48
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
BANANAS FOSTER Serves: 4 Reminiscent of an elevated banana split, this Southern dessert is pure decadence. The bananas are cooked in a caramel-like sauce that is hit with some rum for a solid balance of flavors. Serving Bananas Foster with ice cream truly takes it over the top. When made fresh, you can flambé the bananas with the rum right before serving. Your guests will be blown away.
1 stick butter or butter substitute (we used Betterine) 1 cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon Pinch of kosher salt ⅓ cup rum 3-4 bananas, peeled and sliced into ½-inch slices 1 pint vanilla or butter pecan ice cream, for serving In a heavy skillet over medium heat, melt butter or butter substitute. Add brown sugar,
cinnamon and salt; mix until combined. Cook for 2 minutes, until sugar is dissolved and just starts to bubble. Add rum to pan and cook for another 2 minutes so the alcohol cooks out. To flambé, if desired, carefully light a match just above the pan immediately after adding the rum. Add bananas to the pan and cook for 2 minutes. Serve immediately with a scoop of vanilla or butter pecan ice cream.
OVER THE TOP. JUST HOW YOU LIKE.
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
49
T
O
P
5
new orleans GUMBO Serves: 12 Gumbo is the official dish of Louisiana. Traditionally made with andouille sausage, shellfish broth and roux (a thickening mixture of flour and butter), it’s not exactly a dish you’d imagine could be made kosher — but we were up for the challenge. As andouille is harder to find, we used Polish sausage with smoked paprika and a pinch of red pepper flakes to mimic the bold flavors of andouille. You can, however, find uncured andouille sausage from Abeles & Heymann.
Beef Fry Roux: 1 (4-ounce) package beef fry ½ cup all-purpose flour ¼ cup shmaltz Gumbo: 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs 1 tablespoon smoked paprika 2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning, divided 4 smoked Andouille or Polish sausages (12-ounce package), sliced into ½-inch rounds 1 large onion, chopped 3 stalks celery, finely chopped 1 green bell pepper, finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons tomato paste 4 cups chicken broth 4 cups water 3 tablespoons hot sauce
50
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
4 bay leaves ½ teaspoon dried thyme 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil 1 pound okra, chopped 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar 6 cups prepared long- grain white rice, for serving Fresh parsley, for garnish
Make the roux: Cook beef fry in a frying pan over medium heat until crisp. Transfer the bacon to a plate to cool (making sure to leave as much bacon fat in the pan as possible). Add the schmaltz and flour, whisking continuously to create a smooth mixture. Continue to cook, stirring continuously, up to an hour. The color will turn from a creamy off-white, to a light caramel, to a dark brown color. Watch your heat to avoid burning the roux. Once the roux has reached the desired texture, remove from heat.
RECIPE BY: ROSA SEIDENWAR (@LILYROSE_BAKERSBOX) Yields: 32 beignets Smothered in confectioners’ sugar, these beignets (French for donuts) are famously served in cafés throughout New Orleans, usually accompanied by very strong coffee. Best served warm, these airy pillows of fried dough rarely make it to the table; they’re devoured straight from the fryer. ½ cup warm non-dairy milk ½ cup warm water ¼ cup sugar 2½ teaspoons instant yeast 2 tablespoons canola oil 1 large egg 1½ teaspoon salt 4 cups all-purpose flour
5-6 cups canola oil, for frying (depending on the size of the pot you use) 1½ cups confectioners’ sugar, for dusting In a large bowl, combine milk, water, sugar and yeast; stir gently. Set aside for 10 minutes to allow the yeast to proof. Add oil, egg, salt and flour and mix by hand or with a stand mixer set to low speed, until a smooth dough forms. Coat the dough very lightly in oil and cover the bowl with plastic wrap and/or a towel. Let rise for about 20 minutes. After 20 minutes, refrigerate the bowl with the dough for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours. On a floured surface, divide the dough into 2 balls and roll
out each ball of dough to form a large rectangle approximately ½-inch thick. Using a pizza cutter, slice each rectangle into 16 even squares. To fry the dough, heat the oil to 360°F in a large pot, keeping track of the temperature with a candy thermometer. Fry the dough in batches of 3-4 at a time. After a few seconds in the oil, the dough will float to the top of the pot and puff up. Continue to fry for 1 minute on each side and remove with a slotted spoon to a tray lined with paper towels. Sift confectioners’ sugar on top of beignets. Enjoy hot with a cup of café au lait! Local Tip: Try and wear white or light-colored clothing before enjoying beignets, as you may end up covered in powdered sugar.
DONUTS WITH A B.
For the gumbo: Drizzle 1 tablespoon of oil over the chicken and season with smoked paprika and 1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning. Heat a large skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and swirl to coat the surface of the skillet. Add the chicken and cook 3-4 minutes per side (it’s okay if the chicken isn’t fully cooked). Transfer to a clean plate and set aside. Add the sausage in a single layer and brown 1-2 minutes on each side. Transfer to the plate with the chicken. Add the onion and celery and sauté for 4-5 minutes. Stir in peppers and continue to sauté for an additional 3-4 minutes. Add garlic and tomato paste and sauté for 5 minutes. Reduce heat to mediumlow and add the roux to the mixture. Stir continuously for 1-2 minutes. Add chicken broth and water. Stir to combine. Reduce heat to a simmer and add the hot sauce, bay leaves, remaining 1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning and dried thyme. Mix well to combine. Bring to a boil. Add the chicken and sausage to the pot. Simmer, covered, for 1 hour. As the gumbo simmers, heat grapeseed oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the chopped okra and white vinegar and sauté for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Remove from heat and add to the gumbo a few minutes before serving. Serve with rice and chopped fresh parsley.
BEIGNETS
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
51
O
P
5 T
4
2
1
Buenos Aires
Many consider Buenos Aires, Argentina’s capital city, the “Paris” of South America. “Baires,” as it’s known, is a kosher traveler’s
1
dream with kosher eateries located in multiple neighborhoods
NOT TO BE MISSED
across the city.
52
Fleishigs
1 The city of Buenos Aires itself is huge and worth exploring, but if you have extra time to spend in other regions, it’s well worth it.
NOVEMBER 2019
2 For an inexpensive, fairly short train ride, you can visit Tigre, a wonderful destination to explore the jungle/ river countryside via boat ride.
3 You can also take a 2-3 hour ferry ride to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay, which is a beautiful historic town.
WHERE TO EAT:
3
The conveniently located Abasto de Buenos Aires mall houses the only Kosher McDonalds outside of Israel, so that is worth a trip for the experience alone. The mall is only a 5-minute car ride to other kosher options, including multiple steakhouses like Lo de Victor.
IN BRIEF: Home to the largest Jewish population in Latin America, Jews have been living in Buenos Aires since the 1800s, settling in various neighborhoods throughout the city. The neighborhoods range in demographic from the wealthy, family-friendly neighborhoods of Palermo Chico and Belgrano, to the middle-class neighborhood of Villa Crespo aka Villa Creplaj (kreplach). The happening Jewish neighborhood of Balvanera is one of the most active Jewish neighborhoods in the city. Within the city itself, we loved staying in the Recoleta neighborhood, which is dotted with high-end stores, shops and interesting buildings; it is completely walkable to the other neighborhoods we wanted to visit, as well as the city’s Chabad house.
An absolute must is the famous Al Galope, an old school, no-frills steakhouse that serves Argentinian meat cooked to perfection at an amazing price. La Empanadería Kosher offers dairy and meat empanadas (they have separate kitchens), fresh pizzas, salads and baked goods. The Alvear Icon Hotel has 2 kosher restaurants: Glitter, a gourmet meat restaurant and Milk & Co., a dairy restaurant.
SHABBAT IN BUENOS AIRES: Visit Chabad of Recoleta online for information about Shabbat meals and an extensive list of all the kosher restaurants and grocery stores. You can also book a hotel room near any local shul (many hotels are very accommodating to observant guests) and purchase takeout food for Shabbat at one of the many grocery stores and restaurants.
5
Kokush is a local bakery that specializes in alfajores, traditional Argentinian shortbread cookies filled with dulce de leche.
4
5
Iguazu Falls, located North of Buenos Aires, showcases spectacular waterfalls that border both Brazil & Paraguay.
Patagonia is a mountainous region south of Buenos Aires and is a hiker's paradise.
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
53
T
O
P
5
Buenos Aires
RECIPES INSPIRED BY BUENOS AIRES:
ALFAJORES RECIPE BY: ROSA SEIDENWAR (@LILYROSE_BAKERSBOX) Yields: 10 cookies These classic South American sandwich cookies are made with a surprising ingredient: cornstarch, which gives them their famously delicate, crumbly texture. The creamy caramel holds the cookies together to create a perfect bite.
54
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
For the cookies: ½ cup margarine, softened ½ cup confectioners’ sugar 2 egg yolks (optional, for coating cookies) ½ teaspoon vanilla extract ¾ cup all-purpose flour ¾ cup cornstarch ¼ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup coconut flakes (optional) For the caramel filling: 1 (14-ounce) can unsweetened, full-fat coconut milk 1½ cups dark brown sugar ¾ teaspoon kosher salt
Make the cookies: Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer, cream the softened Betterine and confectioners’ sugar until creamy. Add egg yolks and vanilla and continue to mix on low speed until fully incorporated. In a separate bowl, whisk flour, cornstarch, baking powder and salt until combined. Slowly add dry ingredients to wet ingredients and mix together until dough forms. If dough is very sticky, add a little bit of flour until dough is soft to the touch. Alternatively, you can mix the dough
by hand. Roll dough out onto a floured surface to about ½-inch thickness. Cut out 20 cookies using a round cookie cutter (a glass cup works well too). Gently place each cookie on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 10 minutes and allow to cool completely on the baking sheet. Make the caramel sauce: Whisk ingredients in saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil. Lower heat to medium and simmer for about 30 minutes, until thickened. Allow to cool and transfer to a glass jar. Store in fridge to thicken further.
FOR MORE ARGENTINIAN INSPIRATION, TURN TO OUR BUTCHER'S CUT SECTION (PG. 69) WHERE WE FEATURE SKIRT STEAK, ONE OF ARGENTINA'S MOST POPULAR CUTS OF MEAT. THERE WE ALSO SHOWCASE CHIMICHURRI, THE HERB-BASED CONDIMENT THAT IS A MAINSTAY IN SOUTH AMERICAN CUISINE.
Assemble the alfajores: Spoon a dollop of caramel into the center of half of the cookies. Top with another cookie and press down gently to even out the caramel filling. Dip the sides of each alfajor into coconut flakes, if using.
NOTE: YOU CAN EASILY MAKE THESE DAIRY BY USING BUTTER IN THE BATTER AND STORE BOUGHT DULCE DE LECHE AS THE FILLING.
COCONUT MILK VS. COCONUT CREAM Made from simmering equal parts shredded coconut and water, coconut milk has a similar consistency to cow's milk. Coconut cream, on the other hand, is much richer and thicker, as it's made with a much higher ratio of coconut to water. When you open a can of coconut milk and there is a thick layer at the top, that is also considered coconut cream. There’s also cream of coconut, which is very creamy and highly sweetened. Cream of coconut is used to make piña coladas.
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
55
O
P
5 T
2
3
1
IN BRIEF:
Montreal Yet another destination city that is often compared to Paris, Montreal is so much
Just across the Canadian border, only a 5-6 hour drive from most of the NY metro areas and Boston, Montreal is home to a thriving Jewish community (and many kosher restaurants), a beautiful landscape and happening nightlife. It’s best to visit during the summertime, when temperatures are warm but not oppressive, versus other seasons when the city can be extremely cold.
more accessible, especially for those in the
NOT TO BE MISSED
northeast.
56
Fleishigs
1
2
Mount Royal, located in the center of the city, is a wonderful hiking opportunity for the whole family. Mount Royal Park offers many affordable and even free activities for all ages.
Explore Old Montreal, which showcases many European influences and traces Montreal’s history back to 1642, when European settlers first arrived.
NOVEMBER 2019
3 If traveling in July, make sure to check out the world’s largest international comedy festival, “Just for Laughs.”
WHERE TO EAT: Make sure to check out Yakimono Sushi Bar, an excellent pareve Asian restaurant that is often my first stop when visiting Montreal— they have the city’s best sushi. Chops Resto Bar is one of the city’s highend steakhouses, great for a nice night out. Pizza Pita is the city’s largest kosher pizzeria and has been open for 30 years; they serve pizza, pasta and cheesy poutine made with their signature pareve gravy. Sampling the city’s bagels is a pastime for locals and visitors, which native Montrealers believe are superior to New York’s variety (in our humble opinion, they’re wrong— but it’s still worth trying). Check out Côte St-Luc Bagel Kosher Inc. or District Bagel to decide for yourself. An unexpected surprise at District Bagel are the cheese blintzes, which are some of the best we’ve tasted worldwide.
ESTHER KADOCH (@ESTHERKADOCH) SHARES HER RECOMMENDATIONS
4
As a lifetime Montreal resident, lifestyle blogger Esther Kadoch shares her favorite spots. Sababa is a new, modern Israeli restaurant. They have fluffy laffas that are so good with the lamb merguez and hummus. They also have a solid steak with fries. At Yakimono, I recommend the Salmon Teriyaki entrée and for sushi we always get the Mendy Roll and the Bamboo Roll. The Chocolate Cigars are everything you would want in a fried dessert. For a nice night out, Chops is our go-to. We always like to start out with sushi (try the Shogun Roll and the Slim Roll) and the Crispy Beef and Chicken Corn Soup appetizer menu are musts. For an entrée, we tend to alternate between the Korean or Entrecôte Steak options and the Sizzling Beef Noodles are an excellent choice as well.
to appeal to the kosher, Shabbat-observant traveler. Ramada Plaza by Wyndham Montreal, for example, has a kosher meat restaurant on premises, Luzzatto. It offers kosher breakfast options and Shabbat keys as well.
SHABBAT IN MONTREAL: Shabbat in Montreal is best spent in Côte Saint-Luc, which is home to the most Jews in the city. In fact, many hotels have services
Another famous Montreal specialty is smoked meat sandwiches. Smoked meat is often compared to pastrami but is its own special product that we find to be beefier than pastrami; many actually prefer it to classic pastrami. A great place to stop for some smoked meat sandwiches is Deli 365. Grab a few extra sandwiches- they travel well. A few doors down is the famous bakery, Boulangerie Cheskie, where you can grab some pastries for dessert. You can actually order amazing smoked meat from www.GrowandBehold.com. They deliver anywhere in the United States.
Although the Sheraton doesn’t offer kosher on premises, it is another family-friendly (and points friendly!) hotel that is within walking distance to kosher food and shuls. For those staying downtown, McGill University will be your best bet to be accessible to Shabbat meals and shuls. L'Escale Chabad du Nord is a rustic, country-style kosher hotel located an hour or so from central Montreal, in the scenic mountains near Sainte-Agathedes-Monts. The food is authentic Moroccan and Israeli cuisine cooked by the owner’s wife, who happens to be a great-grandmother.
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
57
T
O
P
5
montreal RECIPES INSPIRED BY MONTREAL: PASTRAMI POUTINE Serves: 8 A Canadian classic made with French fries, cheese curds and rich gravy, poutine is a dish that we had to adapt for the kosher crowd — and of course we loaded it with lots of meat.
1½ pounds beef cheek meat 2 pounds navel pastrami 1 Spanish onion, diced 1 carrot, diced 2 stalks celery, diced 6 cloves garlic 2 tablespoons tomato paste 1 (12-ounce) bottle beer ½ cup water Prepared French Fries (see Culinary School feature for step-by-step guide, pg. 12) Roasted Garlic Aioli (see recipe on pg. 59) Fresh parsley, for serving Preheat oven to 275°F. Place beef cheek, pastrami, onion, carrot, celery, garlic, tomato paste, beer and water in an oven safe 9x13 dish. Cover tightly with foil and cook for 6 hours. Uncover and let cool. Remove meat from the pan and shred. Set aside. To make the gravy, strain liquid from the meat and simmer in a pot for 20 minutes, until thickened. You can speed
58
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
up the process by mixing in a slurry of 1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons hot water. To serve, place shredded meat over fries and drizzle gravy on top. Serve with with roasted garlic aioli and fresh parsley.
ROASTED GARLIC AIOLI Yields: 3 cups 2 cups garlic cloves, peeled ½ cup olive oil 1 cup mayonnaise 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup fresh parsley ½ cup chopped chives Preheat oven to 375°F. Place garlic in a baking dish and cover with oil. Roast for 20 minutes. Let cool and then blend with mayonnaise, salt, parsley and chives.
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
59
O
P
5 T
rome
2
2
IN BRIEF:
rome
Jews arrived in Rome in the 2nd century BCE. Many centuries of Jewish history are contained within the walls of the Jewish
1
Many Jewish tourists use the Jewish Ghetto as a homebase for their Roman travels. Walking on the cobblestone streets while exploring Rome’s ruins and artifacts, both Jewish and not, dates back to an age we can only read about in our textbooks. It’s both a memorable and historical experience.
quarter called the Ghetto, the oldest Jewish
NOT TO BE MISSED
community in all of Europe.
60
1 Rome is where you can find some of the most iconic sites in Europe, including the Colosseum, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain and the Roman Fountain.
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
2 And then of course, there’s the Jewish Ghetto. Home to stunning architecture, shuls, shops, restaurants and loads of history, the once-thriving Jewish Ghetto is now home to thousands of Jewish residents.
3 Check out the Great Synagogue, the largest in all of Rome, built between 1901 and 1904. Within the Great Synagogue is the Jewish Museum of Rome, where many fascinating Jewish artifacts are on display.
WHERE TO EAT: In the Jewish Ghetto, most of the restaurants are located on one street, Via del Portico d’Ottavia, in close proximity to each other. Almost all the restaurants in the area have outdoor seating. In cold weather, the more upscale restaurants place large gas heaters near the tables, making for a very cozy and romantic dining experience. Ba’Ghetto has incredible Roman cuisine, including the iconic fried artichoke dish (carciofi alla giudìa), which is said to have originated in the Jewish Ghetto. Its dairy counterpart, Ba’Ghetto Milky, serves truly fresh, house-made pasta that is rarely found in kosher restaurants anywhere else. BellaCarne Kosher Grill, a meat spot, serves classic Jewish Roman fare with fresh pasta. For cheese enthusiasts, Yotvata is a must try because they make their own cheeses using kosher rennet.
1
Cremeria Romana is the only kosher place to get gelato in Rome. It’s chalav yisrael and not to be missed. Alice Pizza is a large chain with a kosher branch located in the Jewish Ghetto. It’s very different from the pizza we are accustomed to in the United States; it’s served in rectangles and sold by weight. The decor at the meat restaurant Su’Ghetto is rustic, housing its diners
within stone walls in a cozy, cave-like setting. La Taverna del Ghetto is another meat restaurant that serves Roman classics mixed with Jewish influences. Neman Collection runs a few kosher bed and breakfasts in the Jewish Ghetto for kosher travelers. They are centrally located and serve breakfast every morning.
SHABBAT IN ROME: BellaCarne Kosher Grill takes preorders for Friday night meals. La Taverna del Ghetto takes preorders for Friday night meals. Chabad Piazza Bologna hosts weekly Friday night dinners for local Jews, foreign students learning in Rome and tourists, to enable them to truly experience Shabbat and holidays. They also offer to set visitors up with Shabbat meals at local families, who are more than happy to host tourists.
3
3
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
61
T
O
P
5
ROME RECIPES INSPIRED BY ROME: SAUSAGE “CARBONARA” Serves: 8 Carbonara is a traditional Italian spaghetti dish featuring bacon and pecorino cheese, a combination that is decidedly not kosher. For this recipe, we skipped the pecorino, used beef bacon and added Italian sausage for an additional boost of flavor. We used chicken stock, reserved pasta water and non-dairy butter substitute in place of the dairy ingredients.
62
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
1 pound spaghetti 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 (4-ounce) package beef bacon, chopped 1 onion, finely diced (about ½ cup) 4 sweet or spicy Italian sausages, chopped 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 cup chicken broth 2 tablespoons butter substitute (we used Betterine) 2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped, plus more for garnish ¼ cup toasted pine nuts
In a large saucepan of boiling, salted water, cook pasta according to package instructions. If you want to cook it like an authentic Italian would, drain the pasta a minute or 2 early, so it’s truly al dente. Reserve ½ cup of pasta water. In a large sauté pan, heat oil over high heat. Sauté bacon until crisp. Remove from heat, add onion and sausage and cook 3-4 minutes, until sausage is golden and onions are translucent. Add garlic and sauté another 30 seconds, until fragrant. Add the spaghetti to the pan. With pan off the heat, add chicken broth and butter substitute; toss to combine. Add reserved pasta water as necessary to thicken sauce. Add parsley and pine nuts. Season to taste. Serve immediately, garnished with more parsley.
ITALIAN-STYLE BITTER GREENS SALAD Serves: 6 Bitter greens play a huge role in balancing rich flavors. This gourmet, yet simple salad also happens to be super light and good for you.
1 head radicchio, roughly chopped 1 endive, thinly sliced 2 cups arugula 2 lemons, supremed and diced ½ cup extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard Combine greens in a large bowl. In a container with a tight-fitting lid, add the lemons, olive oil, salt, pepper and mustard. Shake until emulsified and pour over greens right before serving. Serve with additional lemon wedges.
NOTE: SUPREMING IS A TECHNIQUE USED WITH CITRUS THAT REMOVES THE MEMBRANE SO IT CAN BE EASILY SLICED FOR USE IN RECIPES. NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
63
O
P
5 T
ROMAN PIZZA BY CHEF ISAAC BERNSTEIN
When I think of Roman pizza, I think of a very thin, crisp crust with a soft and fluffy interior. It sounds like an oxymoron, but it can be achieved by following the recipe and technique I have honed over many years. I like to think of pizza dough as a blank canvas where you can exhibit your own creativity based on what you enjoy eating. The beauty of pizza dough is that the inspiration can come from any cuisine. For instance, you can top your dough with hummus, spiced lamb or chicken, pickled onions and amba for an Israeli-style pizza, or top it with pulled beef, spicy aioli, cilantro and crispy onions for a popular American-style combo. If simple is what you’re going for, just top your dough with olive oil, fresh herbs and flaky salt for a play on focaccia. Here, I share my take on Roman pizza dough with a few of my favorite pairings that are sure to impress.
BASIC NO-KNEAD DOUGH Yields: 2 large crusts Serves: 16 These recipes seem easy at first glance, but those who have tried to make pizza dough from scratch likely know that getting picture-perfect results takes effort. No-knead bread and pizza have been around for years and this is my adaptation of the classic. The recipe has more hydration than most others, which provides a more supple dough with fewer dry spots. A scale is crucial for this recipe; exact measurements are a must and grams give you the most precise measurement, which is preferable for
64
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
dough recipes. This dough has taken years to perfect, so sticking to the recipe will be well worth your while. This dough can be a little difficult to work with, but once you master it, the possibilities are endless. Sweet or savory, dairy or meat. Anything goes. 800 grams bread flour 2 grams instant yeast 8 grams kosher salt 650 grams water In a large mixing bowl, whisk the flour, salt and yeast until combined. Stir in the water until a chunky, thick dough forms. (The dough will appear scraggly and weird – you're going to question whether or not this recipe will work, but it will.) Cover the
bowl with plastic wrap and let rest at room temperature 12-18 hours, until doubled in size. Time will vary based upon the temperature of the room. When ready to bake, preheat the oven to 550°F. Using wet hands, fold the dough into itself a few times to form a loose ball. Prepare a half sheet pan (18x13-inches) by coating it liberally with olive oil. Take a 500-gram piece of dough and shape it on the sheet pan by pushing it out from the center. When the dough starts to resist, cover it and let it sit for 30 minutes. Repeat the stretching process as many times as it takes to cover the entire surface of the sheet pan. This process can take up to 3 hours, at which point the dough will be nicely fermented and ready to bake.
TOPPINGS:
There are 2 ways to bake this dough: Dock, or prick, the dough with a fork so it remains thin and doesn’t puff up in the oven, parbake it for 3 minutes and then top it and finish it in the oven. This method will ensure that the dough is fully cooked, leaving the bottom nice and crisp. This is the ideal method when using toppings that are fully cooked. The other method is to just top the dough according to the recipe you’re using and bake until golden brown and crisp, about 15 minutes. Time will vary based on oven and size of pizza.
The options are truly endless. Here are some of my favorite combinations, but feel free to really go for it and put your own personality stamp on your pizza. You can even create sections with various toppings on a single pie.
PIZZA BIANCA Serves: 8 Pizza Bianca is the most famous expression of the Roman pizza, but you can amp it up with super thin slices of Yukon Gold potatoes. 500 grams Basic No-Knead Dough 1 head roasted garlic (recipe follows) 3 sprigs fresh rosemary 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons flaky sea salt
Preheat oven to 550°F. Spread out dough according to the instructions in the Basic No-Knead Dough recipe. Top with roasted garlic, rosemary leaves and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. Sprinkle sea salt on top. Bake for 25 minutes. Roasted Garlic: Preheat oven to 400°F. Cut the top quarter of the head off of the garlic. Place garlic on a large piece of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of oil over top and sprinkle with salt and pepper, to taste. (If you plan on adding the garlic to salty dishes, you can skip the salt.) Loosely wrap up the foil around the garlic and roast for 40 minutes.
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
65
T
O
P
5
rome
CREAMY CAULIFLOWER PIZZA Serves: 8 Cauliflower has a sweet flavor when puréed, especially when you throw some garlic into the mix. It makes for a delicious non-dairy cream sauce. But where this pizza truly shines is in the garnishes. The crispy capers, coupled with the sweet, tangy pickled raisins and the fresh herbs all pair perfectly with the mild cauliflower cream. It’s an explosion of textures and flavors. 500 grams Basic No-Knead Dough 2 medium heads cauliflower 6 cloves garlic 1 sprig fresh thyme, optional ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon black pepper Garnishes: Pickled raisins (recipe follows) Fried capers (recipe follows) Fresh mint 1 lemon, halved Preheat oven to 550°F. Set 3 cups of water in a pot to boil. Spread out dough according to the instructions in the Basic No-Knead Dough recipe. Shave one head of cauliflower a bit bigger than the texture of cauliflower rice, to yield about 1-2 cups of shaved cauliflower. Set aside. Chop the second head of cauliflower into large chunks, then place the cauliflower into the pot of boiling water. Add a few cloves of garlic and a sprig of thyme (if desired). Cook until cauliflower is tender, about 25 minutes. Strain the cauliflower and blend until very smooth. Pour in the olive oil slowly until the
66
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
mixture comes together. Season with salt and pepper. Spread the cauliflower cream over the dough. Toss the shaved cauliflower with oil, salt and pepper and add to the pizza. Bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Top with pickled raisins, fried capers and fresh mint. Squeeze some lemon on top before serving, if desired. Serve immediately. Pickled Raisins: In a saucepan, add 2 cups of golden raisins and ½ cup each of water, white wine vinegar and sugar. Add a sprig of rosemary (optional) and simmer until the sugar dissolves. Allow to cool. Store, covered, in the fridge for 2 weeks. Fried Capers: Strain ¼ cup of capers and pat dry (this is crucial to avoid splatter). Heat 1 cup olive oil in a large
sauté pan over medium-high heat and fry the capers until they break open slightly and become crispy. Drain on a paper towel-lined plate. The capers serve as an addictive, crispy garnish with a unique, briny taste. Store, covered, for 24 hours.
LAMB MERGUEZ PIZZA WITH ZUCCHINI Serves: 8 The combination of spicy ground lamb and roasted zucchini is phenomenal. Top if off with some herbs and pine nuts — you won’t miss the cheese. 500 grams Basic No-Knead Pizza Dough 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 scallions, sliced 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 pound ground lamb 2 tablespoons harissa
1 medium zucchini, thinly sliced Fresh herbs, for garnish (parsley, cilantro, chives) Toasted pine nuts, for garnish Crushed red pepper flakes (optional) Preheat oven to 550°F. Spread out dough according to the instructions in the Basic No-Knead Dough recipe. Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and sauté the scallions and garlic for 3 minutes, until softened. Add the ground lamb and harissa and brown until cooked through, about 10 minutes. Spread the meat mixture over the dough, top with the sliced zucchini and bake for 12 minutes. Serve with lots of fresh herbs, pine nuts and crushed red pepper flakes.
Buon appetito!
MADE IN
AGENZIA PIÙ DELIZIOSA
ITALY ITALY
. n a i l a t I y l c i t n Authe
WHEN SUPPER BECOMES DINNER Rivka brushes her
GRILLED SALMON
with Saladmate’s BBQ Sauce Yehuda sautees his
PEPPERS
in Saladmate’s BBQ Sauce
Esther marinades her
CHICKEN BREAST in Saladmate’s BBQ Sauce
Chaya makes her famous
CHOLENT
with Saladmate’s BBQ Sauce
TH
M
AL
L BITES W
I
Skirt Steak
BUTCHER'S CUT
F B I G L AV
O
R
BY NAFTALI HANAU PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCHNEUR MENAKER
What is skirt steak?
What are striations?
Skirt steak consists
The deep ridges of
of the diaphragm
muscle in skirt steak,
muscles of the steer,
called striations, are
which form a “skirt”
unique to this cut
between the fore
(hanger steaks look
and rear halves of
somewhat similar, but
the animal. It’s long,
are not really the same
narrow, striated and
thing) and they’re a
is a muscle that gets
cook’s secret weapon
a good deal of work
because they give this
since it helps the lungs
steak more absorption
breathe. Each animal
area than other steaks.
has 2 outer skirt steaks
This means more
(¾ inches wide, ½-1
flavor from a marinade,
inch thick), which are
resulting in really deli-
more tender and 2
cious meat. Since this
inner skirt steaks (5-7
steak is great when
inches wide, ¼-½ inch
cut into small pieces,
thick), which tend to
you can season it
be chewier. Both parts
very heavily and each
have flavor, tenderness
bite will deliver a little
and texture unlike any
flavor explosion in your
other steak, which
mouth.
make it perfect for serving in small bites in salads, fajitas, burritos and more.
SKIRT STEAK DOES WELL WHEN COOKED OVER HIGH HEAT TO DEVELOP A CRUST. ONCE SEARED, FINISH OVER INDIRECT OR LOWER HEAT TO TENDERIZE THE MEAT.
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
69
S
B R,
SEA
A
ST
E, R
E ST
Will I get a good sear with all those striations? Striations don’t necessarily mean a guaranteed sear, but that’s okay. If you use a marinade, the moisture on the meat will turn to steam when it cooks, making it difficult to achieve a crispy sear. That said, there is so much flavor in good skirt steak that you don’t need to worry about getting a perfect sear. It’s also relatively thin, so if you leave it over the heat for too long, the moisture
Is it true that skirt steak is saltier than other cuts? Nowadays, meat is koshered in primals (large pieces) rather than by individual steak — but there are some exceptions to this and skirt steak is one of them. Because of the anatomy of skirt steak and the koshering process, it’s koshered (salted) on its own, basically in the form you’d purchase it, so it receives and absorbs a lot of salt. At Grow & Behold, we soak our skirt steaks 2 extra times, but it can still be saltier than other cuts. If you want to test for saltiness, cut off a tiny strip before marinating and grill it up to taste it. If it’s too salty, you can soak it in cold water for 30 minutes before proceeding with your recipe.
will evaporate, leaving the steak overcooked. Dry the meat with a paper towel as well as you can, go for a
RECIPES BY NAFTALI HANAU
gentle, medium/mediumrare and take the sear you get — you’ll enjoy it much more than if ends up welldone.
My skirt steak is really long. How do I cook it? Don’t be afraid to cut your skirt steak into pieces that will fit in your pan or be manageable on your grill. A 7-10 inch strip is a nice size to work with.
Orange Pomegranate Skirt Steak THE THIN NATURE OF SKIRT STEAK MAKES IT ONE OF THE EASIEST AND MOST EFFECTIVE STEAKS TO MARINATE AS THE INGREDIENTS PENETRATE EVERY PART OF THE STEAK.
70
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
w w w.f leishigs.com
BUTCHER'S CUT
CHEF’S NOTES: Do not marinate the skirt steak overnight. In fact, it’s better to marinate for 30-60 minutes than to marinate overnight. Why? The acid in the orange juice will “cook” the meat, and you’ll end up with mushy steak.
Chili Rub Skirt Steak SKIRT STEAK IS FULL OF TEXTURE AND FLAVOR. HERE WE SHARE ONE OF OUR FAVORITE SPICE RUBS. MAKE A DOUBLE BATCH AND STORE IN AN AIR-TIGHT JAR FOR FUTURE USE.
Chimichurri Skirt Steak
Skirt steak is thin and cooks very quickly. Although a hot grill is your best chance for a solid sear, remember that if the steak is done you may need to remove it before it gets that perfect sear. A perfect sear is never worth an overcooked steak. Sear the drier side first. The side of the steak that is facing up on the plate where you pat your steak dry should be put facedown on the grill. It’s drier than the side that was touching the plate, so it will sear better and give the wetter (formerly bottom, now top on the grill) side a chance to dry off before searing.
CHIMICHURRI SAUCE WORKS FOR SO MANY DISHES AND PREPARATIONS, INCLUDING THIS MARINADE. YOU CAN ALSO TRY IT AS A DIP FOR WARM CHALLAH ON SHABBOS. ADD ADDITIONAL OLIVE OIL IF YOU LIKE A LOOSER CHIMICHURRI. NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
71
BUTCHERS CUT: RECIPES
Chimichurri Skirt Steak
Chili Rub Skirt Steak
Serves: 4
Orange Pomegranate Skirt Steak
Serves: 4
2 pounds skirt steak ½ tablespoon + ⅓ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1 cup finely chopped parsley 3-4 cloves garlic, minced 1 red chili, seeded and finely chopped ¾ teaspoon dried oregano 1 teaspoon coarse salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper Soak skirt steak in cold water for 30 minutes to remove excess salt, if desired. Pat steak dry and heat cast iron pan over high heat. Drizzle ½ tablespoon of oil in the pan and sear steak for 4 minutes on one side and 3 minutes on the other. Let steak rest for 5 minutes before slicing. While steak rests, prepare chimichurri in a bowl by combining the remaining olive oil, red wine vinegar, parsley, garlic, chili, oregano, salt and pepper. Slice steak against the grain and serve with chimichurri.
8 teaspoons freshly ground dried ancho chilis 8 teaspoons freshly ground dried chipotle chilis 4 teaspoons ground coffee 2 teaspoons garlic powder 2 teaspoons onion powder 2 teaspoons celery salt 2 teaspoons sugar 2 pounds skirt steak 2 tablespoons grapeseed oil Combine the spice ingredients, through the sugar, in a jar with a resealable lid. Pat steak dry, then cover both sides with spice rub, storing any extra spice rub for future use. Heat frying pan (or grill pan) over medium-high heat, add oil and sear steak for 4-5 minutes per side. You can also broil the skirt steak in an oven-safe pan on high, 4 minutes per side.
Serves: 4-6 ½ cup orange juice ½ cup San Pellegrino Pomegranate Orange Sparkling Juice Beverage 2-inch knob fresh ginger, peeled and finely diced or grated ½ jalapeño pepper, seeded and diced 2 cloves garlic, diced ½ teaspoon cumin ½ teaspoon smoked paprika Pinch of kosher salt 2-3 pounds skirt steak Make the marinade: Combine all ingredients, except skirt steak, in a Ziploc bag. Cut skirt steak into pieces of 6-8-inches long. Add to Ziploc bag with the marinade and set aside for a maximum of 2-4 hours.
n
skirt stea k
72
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
ak
te
orang
em
ri
d ate
sk irt k ea st
a
chili rub
Prep the grill and the sauce: Prepare a grill with a hot zone and cool zone. You want the grill to be very hot. Remove steak from marinade and pat dry. Transfer the rest of the marinade to a small saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring regularly to avoid burning. Reduce the liquid by about half, then strain out the solids. Use the remaining liquid to baste the steak as it cooks. Sear, Baste, Rest: When grill is hot and steaks are dry, carefully lay steaks onto the hot zone of the grill. After 2-3 minutes, flip steak and baste with reduced marinade. Cook 2-3 minutes more. Flip, then transfer to the cool zone of grill and baste the second side. Cover the grill for 1 minute, in order to caramelize the sugars in the basting liquid and achieve ultimate flavor and crust. For a thicker piece, you can flip over to whichever side is less seared to give it a chance to build before you close the grill. Transfer to a cutting board, cover loosely with foil and let rest for 5-7 minutes.
ch
imichuri sk
s t ir
w w w.f leishigs.com
BUTCHER'S CUT
NO
S
TE
A K?
Try Chimichurri Chicken. Serves: 4 4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs 1-2 tablespoons grapeseed oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 1 cup chimichurri, for serving 1 small red onion, thinly sliced, for serving 1 cup fresh parsley or cilantro, for serving
Preheat oven to 400°F. Season boneless, skinless chicken thighs with salt and pepper. Heat a cast iron pan over medium-high heat and sear chicken for 6 minutes per side. Place pan in the oven to finish cooking for an additional 5 minutes. Serve with chimichurri and sliced onions.
Naf Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, which specializes in expertly-butchered premium-quality kosher meats that are delivered nationwide. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces beef, veal, lamb and poultry raised on pasture with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at www.growandbehold.com. 74
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
w w w.f leishigs.com
* Glatt Me’hadrin * All fresh meals * Daily Minyan * On-board hosts
2020 Cruise the World at Affordable Prices PANAMA CANAL 15 – 26 Jan
ICELAND
CARIBBEAN
NORWAY FJORDS
14 – 24 Feb
9 – 18 June & 3 – 12 Aug
18 June – 2 July
28 June – 5 July
ALASKA
GREEK ISLES
MEDITERRANEAN
BALTICS & RUSSIA
ITALY, FRANCE, SPAIN & MOROCCO
28 June – 5 July 3 – 10 Aug & 17 – 24 Aug
9 – 19 Aug
28 June – 5 July
25 Nov – 6 Dec
Nachum Segal
INTERVIEW
BY SHIFRA KLEIN
76
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
w w w.f leishigs.com
N
achum Segal launched his radio career in 1981 at Yeshiva University’s on-campus radio station, WYUR. In 1983, he began hosting his popular “JM in the AM” aka “Jewish Moments in the Morning” on WFMU. Then, after nearly 30 years of simulcasting “JM in the AM” on WFMU in the New York area, as well as streaming on the web, Nachum took his successful show and ambitiously launched the Nachum Segal Network in 2012. Determined to provide quality original programming to his international audience in the same format as his successful morning radio program, the network sought to combine Jewish music with talk radio that is entertaining, innovative and informative. A first for the Jewish world, the Nachum Segal Show, now in its eighth season, has been warmly received by listeners across the world. From Israeli politics to family values to food and entertainment, the network’s programming has a global reach and meets the needs of listeners everywhere.
You have traveled a lot with the Nachum Segal Network. What is your favorite place? Israel, of course!
What is your favorite food spot? In Israel, it has to be Halo Teiman, known for its unique location (in a gas station!), diverse patrons and killer shawarma. In America, there’s nothing quite like Dougie’s BBQ, the classic American BBQ spot.
What is your most memorable travel experience? Being on the Gaza border during the war in the summer of 2014 was definitely my most memorable experience. It was a difficult summer, to say the least, for our brothers and sisters in Israel. We had traveled to Israel to show support and to connect our listeners in the Diaspora with the challenges facing the people and soldiers of Israel. As part of our travels, we went to the Gaza border to meet and show support to the brave members of the Israel Defense Forces stationed there — and in turn met numerous residents of the area, who were volunteering their time to help the soldiers. From the most mundane of acts, such as giving the soldiers places to shower, to having round-the-clock meals and supplies set up, it was aweinspiring and humbling. There is nothing quite like the oneness of the nation and people of Israel.
After a long time away, what is your favorite food to come home to? American hot dogs.
Top fleishig food? Chicken wings.
Are you planning any upcoming trips or projects that people should know about? We are hoping to visit Pittsburgh on the first anniversary of the Tree of Life synagogue shooting. We are also planning to record our annual Kosher Halftime Show in multiple cities. I’m also excited to be heading to Israel for a week of programming this winter.
What music are you listening to now? Yishai Ribo’s latest album entitled "Back Home."
Who is the most impressive rising star musician that you’ve interviewed? Sorry, Fleishigs, not touching this one. ;)
What food related entertainment can listeners enjoy on The Nachum Segal Network? In addition to Naomi Nachman’s “Table for Two” program (Fridays, 9 a.m. ET), I also host many food and wine related guests and aficionados, including cookbook authors and food magazine publishers on “JM in the AM” (Monday-Friday, 6-9 a.m. ET). Miriam L. Wallach also often welcomes culinary conversation on her show, “That’s Life” (Thursdays, 10:30 a.m. ET).
NACHUM'S TRAVEL TIPS Well, when you’re 6½ feet tall, your travel experiences are unique. Here are some things I’ve learned along the way:
Be the last person to get on the plane. No matter where you’re sitting on the plane, there’s no need to torture yourself by spending more time on the plane than necessary.
Don’t expect to be able to fully recline in any type of seat.
Always bring food from home.
Request an aisle seat to better access your stowed luggage or the bathroom.
Travel with someone shorter than you — you may need to use the area under the seat in front of them as well.
Keep in mind that European hotel rooms are not the same as American hotel rooms.
Rental cars for tall people are more scarce outside of North America.
FOLLOW: Visit www.nachumsegal.com for more information, or go to the Apple App Store or Google Play to download the Nachum Segal Network app. You can also follow the network on Facebook, Instagram (@nachumsegalnetwork) and Twitter (@nachumsegalnet).
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
77
THE CELLAR
TOP 10 Kosher Wineries
A
winery tour is a wonderful addition to your vacation’s itinerary, whether you are a wine aficionado or not. Wineries and vineyards are typically set in beautiful locales with unbelievable scenery; coupled with wine tastings and often food pairings, it is an experience unlike any other. Here we showcase 10 kosher wineries across the world, many of which have kosher dining nearby or even on premises. Make sure to always check the winery’s website for availability and always make reservations ahead of your trip.
3 5 12 4
BY GABRIEL GELLER
Herzog Wine Cellars
Location: Oxnard, California. 1 hour from Los Angeles.
Terra di Seta
Restaurant: Tierra Sur, a farm-to-table meat restaurant on premises.
Location: Castelnuovo Berardenga, Italy. 1 ½ hours from Florence.
Herzog Wine Cellars is a state-of-the-art 77,000 square foot winery, the largest kosher winery outside of Israel. Guests can take a tour and see the tanks, barrels and bottling lines. The experience is enhanced by sampling Herzog’s award-winning wines at the tasting room or by dining at its world-famous kosher restaurant Tierra Sur. In addition to tours, the winery often hosts fabulous events that are open to the public. www.herzogwine.com 78
Elvi Winery Clos Domaine Mesorah du Castel Location: Tarragona,
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
Catalunya, Spain. 1 ½ hours from Barcelona.
Restaurant: Not on premises but there are several kosher restaurants in Barcelona.
Terra di Seta was the first fully kosher winery in Europe. It is an estate winery that produces world-class Chianti Classico wines from grapes grown in their own vineyards. The winery rents out comfortable guest apartments to enjoy beautiful Tuscany to the fullest.
Elvi Winery is the first Jewish-owned, kosher winery established in Spain since the Spanish Inquisition. Familyowned and operated by Dr. Moises Cohen (the viticulturist) and his wife Anne Aleta (the winemaker), this estate winery produces one of the best (non-mevushal) kosher wines in the world from grapes grown on their centuryold vines. A beautifullyappointed guest room is available, as well. It’s a memorable experience, guaranteed!
www.terradiseta.it/eng
www.elviwinery.com
Restaurant: Osteria Seta, a small dairy (chalav yisrael) restaurant on premises that serves authentic Italian cuisine.
Location: Yad Hashmona, Judean Hills, Israel. 20 minutes from Jerusalem.
Restaurant: There are several options nearby such as Derech Hagefen in Beit Zayit as well as the dozens of restaurants in Jerusalem. Pioneering the boutique winery movement in Israel in 1993, Domaine du Castel quickly became known as one of the top wineries in Israel and went fully kosher with their 2003 vintage. In 2015, the winery moved to its current modern facility and offers a growing selection of excellent wines. Visitors will not be disappointed. www.castel.co.il/en
Psagot
Location: Psagot, Binyamin, Israel. 25 minutes from Jerusalem. Restaurant: Nothing on premises but there are dozens of options in Jerusalem. Psagot was established in 2003 by Yaakov and Na’ama Berg. The winery is located in a region said to have produced wines that were used in the times of the Temple, as shown by an ancient coin discovered in a cave dating back thousands of years ago, a replica of which now adorns all their bottles. The winery’s visitor center offers breathtaking views of the Samarian hills and several tasting rooms and fun activities are offered for the entire family. www.psagotwines.com/ en/visitor-center w w w.f leishigs.com
9
6 7 8 10 Carmel
Location: Zichron Yaakov, Israel. About 1 hour from Tel Aviv.
Restaurant: Many options within minutes of the winery.
Flam
Location: Eshtaol, Israel. 10 minutes from Bet Shemesh, 35 minutes from Jerusalem. Restaurant: Several options nearby in Bet Shemesh.
Flam winery is nestled in a charming Tuscanstyle building at the edge of the Eshtaol Forest surrounding Bet Shemesh. Flam is a family-owned winery; Golan Flam produces world-class, elegant wines with the wise and experienced advice of his father Yisrael, a veteran winemaker who has mentored many of Israel’s current star winemakers back when he was Carmel’s head winemaker. Golan personally oversees the winery’s vineyards located in the Judean Hills and in the Upper Galilee. Flam is open to visitors for informative and delicious wine tasting workshops.
Shiloh
Location: Shiloh, Israel. 50 minutes from Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. Restaurant: Nearby dining spots Merlot (dairy) and Asader LiSeudata (meat).
www.flamwinery.com/
Amichai Luria started Shiloh winery in 2005 and has gained a reputation in producing quality wines. Meeting Amichai alone is worth the visit to Shiloh. He has been known to invite guests to sample his wines in his own home where he bakes challah and roasts goat and lamb with his fermenting Chardonnay. Shiloh’s popular wines such as the Secret Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, the Shor Barbera and the Legend Honi speak for themselves.
home-eng
www.shilohwinery.com
The Itzhaki family established Tulip winery in 2003 as a boutique operation, employing adults with special needs who reside in the village of Kfar Tikva. Steadfast in its commitment to both the local community and quality wines, Tulip winery has experienced great success. The winery has grown, producing close to half a million bottles annually. Tulip welcomes visitors for tastings to experience the fantastic wines they have to offer, as well as their impressive and uncompromising priorities to the community.
Carmel is one of the oldest and largest wineries in Israel, responsible for pioneering the revival of viticulture and winemaking in Israel. In 1882, some of the first Israeli settlers commissioned Baron Edmond de Rothschild, owner of the world renowned Château Lafite-Rothschild winery in Bordeaux, France, to invest in a winery on Israeli soil; 7 years later construction began. The winery expanded into Zichron Yaakov in 1891 and these early vineyards became what Carmel is today. The deep, 137-year-old underground cellars of Carmel winery are fascinating, as are the wines, which nowadays rank among Israel’s very best. Visitors have the opportunity to tour the cellars, taste the impressive wines and experience Israel’s rich history of winemaking.
www.tulip-winery.co.il/
www.carmelwines.co.il/
Nestled at the foot of Mount Tabor in the Lower Galilee, Netofa Winery was founded by veteran winemaker Pierre Miodownick in 2006. After 28 harvests in the best vineyards of France, Spain and Portugal, Pierre made aliyah and harvested his first grapes in Israel. Netofa’s vineyards are meticulously tended to, with each plot dedicated to a different grape variety. Netofa’s wines showcase the essential expression of the local Galilean terroir. Netofa hosts visitors in their tasting room for intimate educational experiences. www.netofa.
visitor-center
en/wine-tours
com/en/home
Tulip
Location: Kfar Tikva, Israel. 25 minutes from Haifa.
Restaurant: Several options nearby in Haifa.
Netofa
Location: Mitzpe Netofa, Israel. 20 minutes from Tiberias.
Restaurant: Many options nearby in Tiberias, as well as in other towns in the region.
NOVEMBER 2019
Fleishigs
79
RECIPE INDEX
SOUPS & SALAD 30 Green Papaya Salad 50 Gumbo 63 Bitter Greens Salad
APPETIZERS 12 Ultimate French Fries 44 Grapefruit Ceviche 45 Beef Empanadas
PASTA & POUTINE 58 Poutine 62 Sausage Carbonara 82 Thanksgiving Poutine
PIZZA 64 Basic No-Knead Pizza Dough 65 Pizza Bianca 66 Lamb Merguez Pizza 66 Creamy Cauliflower Pizza
SKIRT STEAK 72 Chimichurri Skirt Steak 72 Chili Rub Skirt Steak 72 Orange Pomegranate Skirt Steak
CHICKEN 31 Lechon Manok (Indonesian Chicken) 48 Fried Chicken 74 Chimichurri Chicken
SWEET TREATS 49 Bananas Foster 51 Beignets
Mid-Winter Vacation Ideas: Looking for some creative ideas for the upcoming mid-winter break? Here are some great family-friendly options.
SKIING AND POCONO VACATIONS The Pocono Mountains of Pennsylvania (only 2 hours away from NYC), offers a plethora of family-friendly activities. Skiing, snow tubing, hiking and indoor water parks are just a few options. To cater to the growing number of kosher tourists and families who trek out to the Poconos, Rabbi Benny Rapoport launched Pocono Kosher in 2015. Its goal was to offer a kosher experience at Kalahari Resort, an indoor water park and resort in the Poconos. Pocono Kosher has since expanded to offer catering for large and small groups, party and event planning and one-of-a-kind freshly made dinners delivered to any hotel or resort in the Pocono area. Pocono Kosher also hosts winter Shabbatons and events at the Scranton Hilton and the Radisson Lackawanna Station Hotel. In fact, this year, they are offering Shabbos Chanukah packages in the Scranton Hilton, as well as discounted rooms and kosher dining at Kalahari during “Yeshiva week.” Pocono Kosher is your go-to for anything kosher in the Pocono area. www.myPoconoKosher.com
ROSEBUD FOOD TOURS This is your chance to see and taste the amazing food scene that is happening in Crown Heights, Brooklyn. This is a great option for a family with older children and those who are passionate about food. Explore the diversity and originality of innovative kosher cuisine on a tour led by Fern Penn, proprietor of Rosebud Tours. It is the perfect activity for a synagogue, organization, or group of friends. The tour includes stops at many different restaurants and gourmet shops. The cost, including food, is $75 per person. www.rosebudfashiontour.com
TOUR YOUR OWN CITY Staying home can become one of the biggest adventures your family has ever taken. Create a customized itinerary to suit your family’s needs and age groups and get a new perspective right within your own backyard. Read more about Shifra’s staycation on pg. 8.
54 Alfajores
CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS 58 Beef Cheek Gravy
INSPIRATION FROM PAST ISSUES OF FLEISHIGS
66 Cauliflower Purée
Venice, Italy (Issue 2)
66 Pickled Raisins
Tuscany, Italy (Issue 5)
66 Fried Capers
South Beach, Florida (Issue 7)
59 Roasted Garlic Aioli
82 Grainy Mustard Aioli 65 Roasted Garlic
80
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
Israel (Issue 9) Cancun, Mexico (issue 10)
w w w.f leishigs.com
LAST BITE
Thanksgiving Leftovers Poutine Serves: 8 Since this is the November issue, what better way to repurpose Thanksgiving leftovers than with another poutine recipe, inspired by the classic Canadian original. Even if you're not celebrating Thanksgiving, the unexpected flavors in this poutine will keep sending you back for more. Délicieux!
1 recipe homemade French fries (see Culinary School feature for stepby-step guide, pg. 12) 1 ½ cups shredded leftover turkey (or chicken), warmed ⅔ cup gravy, warmed ½ cup cranberry sauce ¼ cup thinly sliced onions ⅓ cup thinly sliced apples Grainy Mustard Aioli (recipe follows)
Grainy Mustard Aioli Makes: 1 ¼ cup
Recipe Note: Alternatively, you can use a 32-ounce bag frozen French fries. Cook according to package instructions and proceed with poutine recipe.
¾ cup mayonnaise ⅓ cup whole grain mustard 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 1 tablespoon honey 1 tablespoon warm water ½ teaspoon kosher salt Whisk ingredients together until combined. If making ahead of time, add up to a tablespoon of water before serving to slightly thin it out to desired consistency.
Place cooked fries on a large serving platter. Top with warm turkey, gravy, cranberry sauce, onions and apples. Drizzle some aioli over top. Serve immediately.
82
Fleishigs
NOVEMBER 2019
w w w.f leishigs.com
some have well guarded trade secrets we just call them family traditions
HERZOG LINEAGE nine generations of patient winemaking