Fleishigs Magazine Issue 010 - September 2019 by Fleishigs Magazine

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CONTENTS

RAIZY TAKES SHABBOS A complete guide to planning and cooking for Shabbos and beyond.

PERFECT PANTRY Set up the ideal healthy pantry + recipes.

BACKPOCKET DINNERS

SUPPLIES + How we Challah + To Invest or Not?

EVERYTHING CHALLAH All your challah questions answered.

BUTCHER’S CUT: Bones

L’CHAIM How to balance a cocktail

DESSERTS

Dessert recipes with a healthy twist.

RAIZY FRIED is the powerhouse CEO of Raizy Fried Inc. Media & Marketing Firm. She is a lifestyle blogger who shares her recipes and home design tips on her site www.raizyfried.com and Instagram @raizyscookin. In this issue, she shares her unique approach to Shabbos.

SEPTEMBER 2019

9 TRENDS

67 Fleishigs

EDITOR'S LETTER

+ Fun Shapes + Basic Recipe

MY LOVE AFFAIR WITH FARMERS MARKET

8 9 10

COOKBOOK REVIEW Shuk by Einat Admony and Janna Gur

INTERVIEW A Michelin experience made kosher

RECIPE GUIDE Trending appliances

LAST BITE Time to try fried green tomatoes

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editor's letter

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein

ANNUAL HANDBOOK

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz PROOFREADER Chaviva Gordon-Bennett COPYWRITER Yudi Lewis DESIGN estudio-5.com PRODUCTION estudio-5.com PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Eli Nachman MARKETING & BRANDING Mann Sales Co. TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt RABBINICAL AUTHORITY www.ok.org

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Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine, or for the content of books. Fleishigs magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Thank you to Fishs Eddy for providing many of the beautiful dishes used to photograph recipes for this issue. Visit www.ﬁshseddy.com or their store located at 889 Broadway at 19th Street in NYC for flatware, dining ware, kitchenware, silverware, linens and more.

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER

2019

hen we were in the planning stages of the Fleishigs annual editorial calendar, where we plan the topics and features for each month, I was somewhat intimidated at the prospect of how many non-holiday themed issues we had to plan. In my previous positions publishing food magazines (Joy of Kosher and Bitayavon), we published 6 issues per year and as such, all issues except for the summer issue were pretty much holiday centered. Committing to a monthly magazine is a different ballgame and being left to ideate 6 non-holiday centered issues took me out of my comfort zone. Truth be told, this is not a bad thing. It actually inspired the theme of this issue, which we titled the Annual Handbook. Our Annual Handbook is made up of a combination of recipes and information to increase your overall confidence in the kitchen throughout the year. I share 5 “back pocket” dinner ideas, so you always have something filling to whip up at a moment’s notice, with or without an exact recipe. Personally, with 3 kids going back to school, I will definitely utilize this and switch it up with various proteins and veg. And, although this issue isn’t holiday themed, Rosh Hashanah is in a few short weeks and we had to include some inspiration, like Naomi Elberg’s Honey Challah Bowls on page 20.

brings her fresh voice and relatable ideas to this concept of mindful eating. The truth is, consumers today are on the lookout for foods packed with nutrients and fewer processed ingredients. We’ve teamed up with Rosa Seidenwar from Lilyrose Bakers Box who shares 4 incredible desserts that don’t compromise on flavor and decadence but are made more mindfully. Bones makes their star appearance in our Butcher’s Cut section to highlight zero waste and embrace the tremendous amount of collagen that bones contain. Liz Rueven elaborates on this concept with her feature on farmers markets and the joy of using seasonal ingredients. Beyond recipes, we interviewed chefs who are currently working in Michelin-starred kitchens and plan to bring that experience to the kosher market later this month. It is incredibly inspiring to be a part of (and witness) the growth in the kosher industry. Have a happy, sweet new year, Shifra P.S. We would love to see your Fleishigs creations, so be sure to share via email, Facebook or Instagram. Subscribers! Two incredible recipes that didn’t make it into the issue will land in your email inbox soon.

We tackle common questions like troubleshooting challah and which appliances are worth investing in. We have a practical guide to Shabbos with guest editor Raizy Fried, because Shabbos IS cool and should not overwhelm. With the mindset that our big holiday season is upon us, we also offer a new approach to eating, where diet is out and healthy lifestyle is in. Rivky Rabinowitz

Tried one of our recipes? Let us know! Hello@fleishigs.com

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Trends P A S T T R E N D S T H AT T O O K O F F : 1. Collagen and bone broth. See page 57 for more. 2. Israeli food. Review of the newest Israeli cookbook to hit the market, Shuk by Einat Admony.

3. CBD. Touted for its medicinal properties, which are said to help alleviate ailments from joint pain to anxiety, CBD is the part of the cannabis plant that doesn’t cause psychotropic effects. It is now available in many forms, including beauty products, supplements and many edible kosher foods.

4. Get personal with food. Know what you are eating and make sure it is wholesome. Simple, clean ingredients that are recognizable is a big deal! In a recent study, 38% of consumers agreed that they trust a product with a shorter ingredients list more than they do a long one

5. Zero waste: Use everything. From vegetable scraps to bones.

6. Fermented foods: From kimchi to kombucha, people love fermented foods for their sour flavor and healthy gut-promoting qualities.

7. Sourdough Bread. This healthier bread is oh-so satisfying to master.

CURRENT TRENDS & BUZZWORDS:

WINE TRENDS BY GABRIEL GELLER Sparkling wines are selling better and faster than ever. Champagne Drappier wines have been out of stock since May; the supply can’t keep up with the demand. Jeunesse just came out with its first sparkling wine, a semi-sweet California red blend sparkling wine and Herzog did as well with its Lineage Momentus, an off-dry sparkling white wine. White wines keep growing in popularity with many new types coming to the kosher market. Vitkin released a Grenache Blanc and a dry Gewürztraminer, Herzog and Ramon Cardova released the first kosher Albariño and Netofa released the Tel Qasser Roussanne. Rosé wines are even more in demand this year than they were in the last 2 years. As I write this, it’s barely mid August and most of the 2018 rosés are already sold out! French wines are also continuing their way up with dozens of kosher Bordeaux wines and many more on the way from the Alsace, Loire and Burgundy regions.

THE EXPERT WEIGHS IN

Oat Milk: We love it. Try it. Vegan: Vegan offerings have expanded to mock sausages, meatballs and even fish. There is even a company called Ahimi (kosher under the OK Kosher Certification™) that recently developed vegan sushi-style tuna made from tomatoes. In fact, when talking to the OK, they shared how the growth in vegan options, like Beyond Meat, have positively impacted the kosher consumer. Another favorite of ours is tempeh. Try our maple tempeh on page 44. Mushrooms: They are the new cauliflower (which was the new kale?). Mushroom jerky, mushroom powder and tons of varieties of fresh mushrooms are celebrated for their nutrients, flavor and texture. Cocktails: See our guide to cocktails and balancing flavors to make your own cocktails at home, page 74. Adult frozen cocktails and desserts are also becoming popular. The Boozery (OK Kosher) offers boozed up sorbet in gourmet flavors. Hot sauce: American, Mexican, Asian. We love them all. Protein: This is the new buzz word. Between the insurgence of movements like Keto, Whole30 and Paleo, protein-rich food is what consumers are seeking out.

Quality Frozen Foods is one of the leading companies involved in what ends up on shelves in kosher groceries nationwide. CEO Matis Soffer weighs in on what he sees as the top 2 trends in kosher today. The old Jewish methodology of cooking was sweet. It was all about duck sauce, barbecue sauce, sugar and honey (and very well-done meat). The current generation has developed a more sophisticated palate and as such, I’ve seen a tremendous growth in savory and hot flavor profiles. To celebrate the hot flavor profile, we’ve taken the classic Unger’s kishka and created a spicy version which people really love. Another huge trend in kosher food is healthier versions of the classics that are nutritious but also taste good. Betterine, for example, is a revolutionary patented product that is non-dairy and pareve and provides an alternative to butter and margarine. It really has a butter-like effect and is made from all-natural ingredients.

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There are some awesome kosher sausages on the market today that are packed with flavor and make for a great starting point for easy, affordable, delicious, family-friendly dinners. The sausages act as a blank canvas; use whatever ingredients you have on hand. BY SHIFRA KLEIN

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2019

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N E W!

We know. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to believe that.

80 only

calories

Great Source of Calcium & Protein

As Low as 280 Calories Per Pint

OV ED BY :

100% Real (& Delicious) Flavors

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Why not go try it for yourself?

SMO KY SHEET PA N SAUSAGE, B ROCCO LI & POTATO ES Serves: 4 Make sure to slice potatoes into thin wedges, so they cook fully. The smoked paprika adds a wonderful flavor to the potatoes that pairs wonderfully with the sausages. Frozen broccoli florets roast beautifully and don't need anything more than a pinch of salt. 1 (12-ounce) package Mexican chorizo-style sausages 4 russet potatoes 1 ½ tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 1 tablespoon smoked paprika 2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided 1 16-ounce bag frozen broccoli florets

CHEAT SHEET DINNER.

Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Scrub potatoes well, pat dry and slice into thin, uniform wedges. Toss with 1 tablespoon oil, smoked paprika and 1 teaspoon salt. Toss frozen broccoli florets with remaining oil and salt. Place everything on the prepared baking sheet along with sausages, making sure that everything is in a single layer. Roast for 30 minutes, until potatoes are tender.

PITA NI GHT Serves: 4 1 (12-ounce) package Meal Mart turkey shawarma sausages 1 medium eggplant 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 tomatoes 8 lettuce leaves (any lettuce works) Prepared tahini 4 pitas (or 8 mini pitas), halved Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper for easy cleanup. Slice eggplant into rounds and place on one tray. Brush each side with oil, sprinkle with salt and roast for 30 minutes, until tender. Place sausages on the other baking sheet and roast for 15 minutes. During the last 5 minutes, toast pitas lightly in the oven. Dice the sausages and fill the pitas with sausage, eggplant, tomato and lettuce. Drizzle with tahini.

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2019

SHAWARMA THAT WILL HAVE YOU ASKING LAMA (HAVE WE NEVER MADE THIS BEFORE?) w w w.f leishigs.com

BACK POCKET

SPAGHETTI AND NOT MEATBALLS. SAUSAGE & PE PPE RS SPAGHET T I Serves: 4 You can easily double this recipe to serve 8. Use whichever pasta you prefer, but we particularly love this dish with spaghetti. 1 pound spaghetti 1 (12-ounce) package Italian sausages 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil 1 Spanish onion, thinly sliced into strips 3 peppers, thinly sliced 3 cups marinara sauce Fresh herbs, for garnish Cook spaghetti according to package directions. While pasta is cooking, heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and sear sausages for 4 minutes per side. Remove sausages from pan and add the oil to the pan. Add onions and sauté for 5 minutes until translucent. Add the peppers and cook an additional 4 minutes. While peppers are cooking, slice sausages on a diagonal. Add the sausages back to the pan and combine with peppers and onions. Add marinara and serve on top or mixed into the spaghetti. Top with fresh herbs.

ZUCC HIN I SAUSAG E F RI T TATA Serves: 6 1 (12-ounce) package Italian sausage, sliced into 1-inch rounds 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 onion, diced 2 medium zucchini, sliced into thin rounds 6 large eggs ½ cup chopped parsley ⅓ cup non-dairy milk Salt and pepper, to taste Preheat oven to 400°F. Heat a 9-inch cast iron pan or ovenproof sauté pan over medium heat. Sear the sausages until golden, about 4 minutes per side. Remove from pan to cool. Add the oil and onions to the pan and sauté until onions are translucent, about 6 minutes. Add zucchini and sauté another 6 minutes. Add sausages back into the pan. In a bowl, whisk eggs, parsley, milk, salt and pepper until incorporated. Pour the egg mixture into the pan and swirl to combine. Cook over medium heat for 8 minutes. Transfer to the oven and allow to cook for about 18 minutes. You will know it’s ready when the center is set. Serve with toasted bread and salsa.

DON'T LIKE SAUSAGES? Make any of these dinner ideas with grilled chicken instead. Simply drizzle some boneless, skin-on chicken breasts with olive oil, season with salt and pepper and roast on 375°F for 20 minutes. Use the grilled chicken in place of the sausages in any of these recipes.

GRILLED SAUSAGE FLATBREAD Serves: 6 To make this dinner super easy, use your favorite prepared creamy salad dressing. We used SaladMate Caesar. 1 prepared pizza crust or flatbread 1 ½ cups barbecue sauce 1 (12-ounce) package Bratwursts or steak-flavored sausages French fried onions Baby greens Garlic mayo or Caesar dressing, optional Preheat grill to medium heat. Brush pizza crust with barbecue sauce and grill to heat through. Coat sausages with barbecue sauce and grill 4 minutes per side. Remove from grill and thinly slice. Brush additional barbecue sauce over warm pizza crust. Top with sausages, French fried onions, baby greens and a drizzle of garlic mayo or Caesar dressing.

SEPTEMBER 2019

Fleishigs

GADGETS

LARGE MIXING BOWL Oxo has a set of 3 mixing bowls with non-skid bottoms, which stablize the bowl while mixing. $59.99 www.crateandbarrel.com

How We ChallaH

PASTRY CUTTER Great for cutting dough, sectioning crusts, scraping baking sheets, chopping veggies and more. $7.99 www.oxo.com

Put your best tools forward

The tools you need to bake up a storm.

SUPER KITCHEN 28X20 INCH SILICONE MAT Helps keep your countertop clean while having a nonstick surface to make the smoothest yeast doughs and pies ever! $20 www.amazon.com

METAL PANS Be it challah, sheet pans for roasting or muffin tins for baking, your end results will be substantially better when baked in metal. Starts at $15 www.usapans.com Starts at $17 www.thepeppermillinc.com (for challah pans)

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SEPTEMBER 2019

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GADGETS

To Invest or Not:

Instant Pot GOOD IF YOU... 1. Travel with family. The Instant Pot can be all you need to create 3 meals a day from oatmeal to pasta to chicken stew.

Are trending gadgets worth the hype?

2. Are looking for quick, hearty dinners. The Instant Pot allows you to have braised chicken or chili fully cooked in less than an hour.

Air Fryer GOOD IF YOU... 1. Are looking for healthier options for decadent foods like French fries or fried chicken. An air fryer produces somewhat identical results without any frying necessary. 2. Need a great alternative to oven-roasted vegetables. 3. Like to experiment with different techniques like dehydrating. The Ninja model air fryer also has a dehydrator function, so you can make your own dried fruit and beef jerky. CONS: Air fryers take up space and based on the model, the yield can be small. Depending on what you’re making, a standard air fryer produces enough for only 1-6 servings at a time.

Sous Vide / Immersion Circulator GOOD IF YOU... 1. Like technology and apps. 2. Like to experiment in the kitchen. The sous vide takes humble ingredients up a notch. 3. Are looking for no-fail, precise cooking. The sous vide allows you to cook any protein, such as chicken, eggs and meat, to precise, exact temperatures. You can even sous vide vegetables and frozen meat.

3. Want to shorten time on staple cooking like batches of caramelized onions, bone broth or dried legumes, such as chickpeas and beans. 4. Have a small space. Even though it’s a rather large piece of equipment, it is multipurpose and can function as a rice cooker, steamer and can even sauté. CONS: Instant Pots come in a few sizes but can be as large as a 10-quart pot, so if you don’t use it often, it may not be worth your kitchen real estate. Additionally, the sauté function works slower than cooking on a traditional cooktop.

Bosch Mixer GOOD IF YOU... 1. Are an avid challah baker (weekly or monthly). 2. Actively enjoy baking. The Bosch is great for cookies, cakes, meringues and other pastries. 3. Have the space. The Bosch is one of the most powerful mixers on the market, designed for heavy duty (and frequent) baking. CONS: Bulky, expensive and not great for small-batch baking.

CONS: Sous vide cooking for tougher cuts of meat (like brisket and chuck roast) takes a long time, so patience and planning is key. Additionally, in most cases a second step of searing and browning the food is necessary, so it isn’t a one-step cooking method. Some may also find it bulky, but some models are even small enough to fit in a kitchen drawer.

Other musts for challah baking: plastic wrap, wooden spoon, gloves and a pastry brush.

SEPTEMBER 2019

Fleishigs

C CULINARY SCHOOL

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Eve

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Naomi Elberg has earned a reputation as the babka queen for her delectable babkas, kokosh and hands-on demos. She is a pastry consultant and demo powerhouse (we lost count to how many babka and challah demos she has done this year), who also happens to be a challah pro, selling batches of her fluffy, homemade challah each week in her hometown of Detroit, Michigan. Naomi shared her challah recipe with us as well as a wealth of knowledge to get you on your way to becoming a confident baker.

CHALLAH BY NAOMI ELBERG PHOTOGRAPHY BY MOISHY LEW

SEPTEMBER 2019

Fleishigs

CULINARY SCHOOL

Challah Recipe Makes: 6 challahs

4 cups warm water 1¼-1½ cups sugar (depending on how sweet you like it) 2 ounces fresh yeast or 3 packets of active dry yeast (6¾ teaspoons) 1 cup canola oil ¼ cup honey 2 eggs 1-2 tablespoons fine ground pink Himalayan salt 5-pound bag of bread flour (other wise known as high-gluten flour) Egg wash, for brushing (see note to the right) Sesame seeds, poppy seeds or everything spice blend, for topping Combine water, sugar and yeast in a very large bowl. Let proof 5-10 minutes, until yeast begins to bubble. Add the oil, honey, eggs, salt and half of the flour. Begin kneading by adding more flour, 1 cup at a time, incorporating well in between. Once the dough comes together, leave it to rest for 3 minutes to allow the gluten to “relax.” Continue to knead until a soft and smooth dough is achieved. Transfer to a greased bowl or dough bucket (available on Amazon) and cover with a moist towel or greased plastic wrap and allow to rise until dough is doubled in size, about 1-3 hours. (For an overnight cold and slow rise, place the bucket, with plastic wrap, into a large garbage bag and seal the bag. The next morning remove air and divide into portions, cover and allow to warm up slightly before working with it.) Once risen, divide dough into equal portions and braid as desired. Allow to rise again, 30 minutes to an hour. Preheat oven to 350°F convection or 375°F. Bake for 35-40 minutes; rotate the pans at the 30 minute mark.

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2019

Egg Wash Options:

1. 4 eggs + 1 tablespoon honey or sugar for a standard golden challah

2. 1 egg + 2 egg yolks + 1 tablespoon honey or sugar for a deep golden brown color

Challah Shaping/ Filling Ideas:

1. Cut 1 (6-ounce) package pastrami into 1-inch chunks. Heat in a pan and cook until golden brown. Add ⅓ cup barbecue sauce and cook until glazed, about 5 minutes. Combine with ¼ cup caramelized onions. Stuff each challah strand with caramelized onions, pastrami and braid. Brush with barbecue sauce and Montreal steak seasoning. Top with additional pastrami and onions. Bake.

2. Challah honey dish. See step-by-step guide.

3. 5-braid challah. See step-by-step guide on pages 18 and 19.

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CULINARY SCHOOL

Why do many challah recipes estimate the amount of flour? Not all flour is created equal. Some bags have more, some have less. Flour is just a suggestion. It varies in so many ways. From the temperature of the kitchen to whether the flour is pre-sifted or not.

Troubleshooting

CHALLAH with Naomi Elberg @naomi_tgis:

What is the best way to make the dough in advance? Remember the following and you will never go wrong: Challah dough needs to rise twice. When you refrigerate the dough, you are slowing down the rising process and when you freeze it you are stopping the process completely. Traditionally, you’d make the dough, cover it at room temperature, let it rise, braid it and let it rise a second time before baking. There are times, however, where you just need that extra time and refrigeration or freezing can work wonderfully.

To freeze:

Best tip to help roll out smooth dough? To flour or to oil? I would say that oiling your hands is key. Adding flour will usually dry out dough, so to keep things smooth, brush a bit of oil on your hands. Another key gadget I am obsessed with and take everywhere is my huge silicone baking mat. It is a baking game changer.

Tips on hand-mixing dough: You don’t use as much flour, because you don’t have the horsepower a mixer has. When adding the ingredients and mixing, I like to mimic a dough hook and mix counterclockwise using my hands. Chances are you will not use as much flour when han-mixing challah dough. Recommended Mixer: A -quart Kitchen Aid stand mixer is not great for a full batch of challah, but works for a smaller batch. I personally like the Bosch. See page 15 for more on the Bosch Mixer.

Portion out a 5 pound recipe into 6 portions and put them in Ziploc bags to freeze. Remember, the freezer stops the rise completely, so when you take it out of the freezer you should allow it to rise for the first time, either at room temperature or in the fridge. The cooler the temperature, the longer it will need to rise. After it has thawed and risen, shape it, let it rise again and then bake it. If you want to braid it before freezing: Allow your dough to rise once, braid it and freeze it on a parchment-lined plastic cafeteria tray. These trays are my favorite for this and so much more. You can get them on Amazon. Metal can cause freezer burn and aluminum doesn’t hold the weight properly and leaves imprints. Once frozen, put the loaves in Ziploc bags. Defrost in the fridge or room temperature for its second rise and bake accordingly.

Overnight refrigeration: See instructions in the recipe on the opposite page.

SEPTEMBER 2019

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C 1

PASTRAMI CHALLAH

HONEY DISH

5-BRAID CHALLAH

CULINARY SCHOOL

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Watch Naomi in action making challah and forming the above shapes on the Fleishigs Magazine YouTube channel.

SEPTEMBER 2019

Fleishigs

RAIZY â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TAKE ON SHABBOS

OS IN

, EEK OU

Fit for a (Shabbos) queen

Lights Out Shabbos Dishes BY RAIZY FRIED

SEPTEMBER 2019

Fleishigs

RAIZY â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TAKE ON SHABBOS

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SEPTEMBER 2019

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RAIZY ’S TAKE ON SHABBOS

My Instagram followers know about my love for Shabbos. love everything about Shabbos, from preparing to cooking to setting the table. I see Shabbos as an integral part of every Jewish family and in my view, Shabbos is a big chunk of our duties as “Yiddishe Mammes” (homemakers). We play a large role in setting the tone and atmosphere and providing a love of Shabbos that continues for generations. However, making Shabbos on a weekly basis (52 times a year!) can be very overwhelming. I mean, it all goes down at the end of a week when we often find ourselves the most exhausted. Just because it’s been done for generations and generations by Jewish women, just because everyone does it every single week doesn’t make it less difficult. Even more so, precisely because we do it EVERY SINGLE WEEK, that is why we are an incredible nation of awe-inspiring women! “A Woman of Valor, who can find? She is more precious than corals.... Grace is elusive and beauty is vain, but a woman who fears God — she shall be praised. Give her credit for the fruit of her labors and let her achievements praise her at the gates." -Eishes Chayil I feel humbled and privileged to have this opportunity to feature some of my favorite recipes along with practical tips on how to whip up a tasty heimish Shabbos. From one homemaker to another, with love.

Raizy Raizy Fried is a chassidish, Jewish homemaker. Her pride is in donning an apron, baking fluffy challos with a crusty hull, and serving a ten-course meal on Wedgwood china, washed down by fine wine and dessert. She is also the CEO of a marketing firm and shares lifestyle and cooking tips on Instagram @raizyscookin.

SEPTEMBER 2019

Fleishigs

RAIZY ’S TAKE ON SHABBOS

"Eat in gladness for he has already shown you favor ... with abundant delicacies and a generous spirit ... They will merit much good, those who take pleasure in the Shabbos!" -Verse from a song that is customarily sung on Friday night

Fluffy challah with a crusty hull, a bowl of chicken soup with kneidlach (matzah balls) and some lokshen (thin noodles) floating around are the kinds of foods you’d find on our Shabbos table. Our Shabbos menu basically stays the same from week to week; I’ll switch around the type of salmon I make, the recipe of chicken or meat and I’ll add seasonal fruits to my classic compote, but more or less it’s pretty predictable. Shabbos is when we like to stay true to our Chassidish heritage and enjoy the heimish and oh-so-good Shabbos food that’s been passed down and preserved for generations.

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SEPTEMBER 2019

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Menu BE AU T Y

AND T H E

F EAST

A DINNER HERE IS NEVER SECOND BEST, GO ON, UNFOLD YOUR MENU, TAKE A GLANCE AND THEN YOU'LL BE OUR GUEST OUI, OUR GUEST BE OUR GUEST.

Friday Night Meal

Shabbos Meal

Fluffy Heimish Challah

Dips

Salmon

Gefilte Fish

Chicken Soup

Hard-boiled eggs

Roast or Chicken

Broiled chicken livers

Sweet Carrots

Gallereta (a.k.a. pâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;tcha or gala)

Potato Kugel Compote

FRIDAY NIGHTS THAT SAY ME!

Farfel

Cholent Dessert

SEPTEMBER 2019

Fleishigs

THE GAME PLAN: SHABBOS BASICS Gefilte Fish *I cook my gefilte fish heimish-style, in the paper, covered with water. I add lots of sugar, onion powder, garlic powder, black pepper and a pinch of salt. *When the stovetop is occupied, or I just want one less pot to wash, I cook the gefilte fish in the oven and it’s just as good! In a deep 5x7-inch pan, season and cover gefilte (leaving the paper on) with water as you would in a pot. Cover the pan tightly with foil and pop into a preheated oven at 350°F for 2 hours. *Another baked variation: Remove the paper from the gefilte fish and smear the whole loaf generously with any flavor of jam that you have on hand. Bake it uncovered at 350°F for 2 hours. This results in a firmer texture then the above heimish style with

Chicken Soup For the ultimate hearty soup, I like to use a combination of chicken wings, chicken bones with skin and some turkey necks along with vegetables such as carrots, zucchini, celery, parsnips and onions. I like to put all the chicken wings, bones, skin and necks in mesh soup bags for ease of removal; it also keeps the soup clean and clear as all the residue stays stuck in the bag.

Farfel, Potato Kugel, Sweet Carrots FARFEL - I like using the pre-toasted farfel, or you can toast raw farfel by sautéing in 2 tablespoons vegetable oil for a couple of minutes until lightly browned. Once browned, season to your liking. I use a mixture of onion powder, garlic powder, paprika, salt and pepper. Cover the farfel well with boiling hot water, cover the pot and let simmer for about 15 minutes or until the farfel is cooked and the water is absorbed (or follow the package directions). SWEET CARROTS otherwise known as “tzimmes,” carrots are sliced and cooked in honey and sugar until softened. For many, this is just a Rosh Hashana staple, but in our house it is a traditional Shabbos staple. POTATO KUGEL I keep alternating from overnight to fresh potato kugel and this basic recipe (see pg. 30) is always a hit.

Compote • My go-to is apple compote. It's so simple. Just apples and water. The trick is using the right apples and letting them cook low and slow. You can add sugar to taste, but I don't find it’s necessary; if you cook the apples long enough, the compote tastes perfectly sweet. • One of my favorite apples to use is of the yellow variety; they are sweet and have just the right texture when cooked. If I do add sweetener, it’s just a little honey or vanilla sugar. I often cook the apples with a mixture of other seasonal fruit, such as pineapple. One of my favorite fall-inspired combinations is apples, cranberries, cinnamon and honey.

Cholent My cholent consists of sautéed onions, meat (usually second cut brisket or kolichel), Great Northern beans and barley. I season my cholent with a combination of paprika, fresh garlic, salt, black pepper, onion soup mix, ketchup and soy sauce. TIP: Instead of adding water, I like using chicken soup, it adds so much depth of flavor! Other tasty additions to our cholent include: kishka, marrow bones, navel pastrami and jachnun.

water, but is still very tasty!

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RAIZY â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TAKE ON SHABBOS

Weekend warriors rise up.

SEPTEMBER 2019

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R A I Z Y ’S

R EC IPES

Letcho Salmon Serves: 18

Roasted Red Pepper Dip Makes: 2 cups 2 red bell peppers 1 large beefsteak tomato 1 clove garlic, crushed ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ teaspoon onion powder Pinch of red pepper flakes Preheat the oven to 400°F. Remove the core and the seeds from the peppers and lay them skin side up on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Roast for 25 minutes or until skin is charred. (Tip: You can put the hot roasted peppers into a Ziploc bag and seal. The peppers will sweat, making the skins easy to remove.) Let cool, remove skin from peppers and then blend in a food processor with the rest of the ingredients. I prefer it chunky, but you can blend until desired consistency is reached.

Spicy Chatzilim Makes: 1½ cups 1 large eggplant Kosher salt Canola oil ½ cup harissa 2 tablespoons vinegar ½ tablespoon sugar 2-3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley Cube the eggplant and sprinkle with salt; set aside for 30-60 minutes. Heat ¼-inch layer of oil in a large sauté pan and fry the eggplant cubes for about 5 minutes per side, until golden brown and soft. Transfer the fried eggplant to a bowl and mix with the harissa, vinegar, sugar and parsley. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

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This is our favorite fish recipe; I make it almost every week. This letcho (pepper sauce) recipe yields a large quantity, enough for about 18 pieces of salmon. I use what I need for the number of pieces of fish I am making and freeze the rest of the sauce in containers for future use (divide them according to the amount you need per Shabbos). Then, on Thursday night or Friday morning before Shabbos, I take out a container of letcho sauce, defrost and pour over fresh salmon in a pan, cover and bake. Gourmet Shabbos fish in no time. I serve the fish warm (the only proper way to serve it, in my opinion). KICK IT UP: If you like a little heat in your food, add some hot peppers or harissa to the letcho. Yum. HEALTH TIP: If you're on a special diet, you can swap out: • Soy sauce for coconut aminos • Onion Soup mix for onion powder • Ketchup for tomato sauce Salmon fillets (letcho recipe yields enough for 18 slices) 2 onions, diced Oil 2 red bell peppers, diced 2 orange bell peppers, diced 2 green bell peppers, diced 2 yellow bell peppers, diced 4 beefsteak tomatoes, diced Hot peppers (jarred or fresh), diced (optional) ¼ cup soy sauce ½ cup ketchup 1 tablespoon onion soup mix 2 garlic cloves (or frozen cubes), crushed ½ teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon salt Preheat the oven to 350°F. Sauté the onions in oil over medium-high heat until softened. Add peppers and sauté for about 20 minutes, stirring every few minutes. Add tomatoes and sauté for another 5 minutes. Add spices and the rest of the ingredients. Lower the heat, cover and cook for 45 minutes. Place salmon fillets in a pan and pour letcho sauce over. Cover pan and cook in the oven for 1 hour. Serve warm.

Classic Roast Serves: 8

One of our all-time favorite roast recipes. Not too sweet, not too savoryjust perfect. Best served with mashed potatoes and plenty of gravy! 4 pound French roast 2 onions, cut into rings 2 cups red wine ¼ cup soy sauce ¼-½ cup brown sugar 4 tablespoons olive oil 6 garlic cloves, crushed 2 tablespoons onion powder ½ tablespoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon kosher salt Place sliced onions at the bottom of a 9x13-inch pan. Place the roast on top of the onions. In a medium bowl whisk together all the other ingredients, then pour over the roast. Cover and let marinate in the fridge, preferably overnight. Preheat oven to 325°F. Cook in the oven, covered, for 1 hour per pound.

Easy and Delicious Potato Kugel Serves: 8 8 potatoes, peeled and shredded 6 eggs 1-2 teaspoons kosher salt ¾ cup oil ½ cup water 1 teaspoon black pepper Preheat the oven to 450°F. Combine all ingredients in a 9x13-inch pan. Bake uncovered for 1 hour. Then lower the oven to 350°F and bake for another hour.

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RAIZY â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S TAKE ON SHABBOS

Ah, Shabbos, Shabbos, Shabbos. SEPTEMBER 2019

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R A I Z Y ’S R EC IPES RAIZY ’S TAKE ON SHABBOS

Bobby’s Apple Cake This is my grandmother's treasured apple cake recipe that she makes every week lekoved (in honor of) Shabbos. Yields: 1 loaf 4 eggs 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla sugar ⅓ cup oil ¾ teaspoon baking powder 1 cup all purpose flour 2 yellow apples 2 Red Delicious apples In a mixer, beat the eggs with the sugar and vanilla sugar. Add in the oil and baking powder. Lastly, add the flour and mix until well combined. Peel the apples and finely slice. I like to use a mandoline. Using a rubber spatula, fold the batter into the sliced apples. Place batter into a greased and lined loaf pan. Bake for 1 hour in a preheated oven at 350°F.

Eat right in the bright light. 32

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RAIZY ’S TAKE ON SHABBOS

THURSDAY & EREV SHABBOS DINNER Thursday night dinner can be a hassle; we need to cook for Shabbos and still feed the family. Here are a couple of easy ideas that can be whipped up in tandem with your Shabbos prep. CHICKEN SOUP MEATBALLS: Combine 1 pound ground

Heshy Scoop's naval pastrami flatbreads from the Kiddush Issue is a great inspiration for Shabbos kiddush food and leftovers.

chicken, 1 egg, ¾ teaspoons salt and ¼ teaspoon black pepper. Form into small balls and drop in soup. Simmer for 20 minutes. I don’t add any other spices to the mixture because I don’t want it to affect the pureness of our traditional chicken soup, but feel free to add your favorite seasonings. Pair with farfel or any side you have on hand and dinner is served. POTATO SALAD: Toss cubed, cooked potatoes, chopped hard-boiled eggs, diced Israeli pickles and corn in a dressing of mayonnaise, salt and pepper. CARROT SALAD: : Toss shredded carrots, shredded apples, 1 can crushed pineapple and orange juice. WALDORF SALAD: 2 Red Delicious apples, cubed + 2 green Granny Smith apples, cubed + 3 stalks celery, peeled and diced + can pineapple tidbits with juice, tossed with 2 tablespoons mayonnaise. DELI SANDWICHES: Another lifesaver on Thursdays and long Fridays are cold cuts (a.k.a. deli meat). I like to buy at least 2 different types, such as turkey and pastrami/salami/corned beef and make sandwiches. I let the kids choose their favorite accompaniments such as ketchup, mustard or BBQ sauce which I smear on bread or rolls, then pile on the cold cuts of choice, add in pickles or coleslaw and dinner is done!

SHABBOS LEFTOVERS I’m Hungarian, which means I like to cook plenty and there’s usually leftovers. I’ve come to love leftovers, because they can be served for dinner on Sunday and/or Monday. Here are some of my favorite ways to repurpose basic Shabbos leftovers: CHICKEN SOUP: 1) Create a ramen bowl by adding some ramen noodles and veggies. 2) Add chicken soup to any homemade soup instead of water. CHICKEN: 1) Create a chicken veggie stir-fry. I like using a combination of onion, sliced red pepper, bamboo shoots, baby corn and julienned carrots which I sauté and season with paprika, salt, pepper and a dash of cayenne pepper. Then I add some vegetable broth or leftover chicken soup with a bit of cornstarch to thicken the sauce. Lastly, I add in cubed/ shredded leftover chicken and mix well until incorporated. I serve the stir fry over a square of baked puff pastry or rice. 2) Rewarm & shred chicken, toss with your favorite BBQ sauce. Fill a baguette with the BBQ chicken and coleslaw for a delicious and filling meal. CHICKEN LIVER: 1) I like to serve chicken liver over a bed of hummus for a casual dinner. 2) Liver blintzes: Blend leftover broiled chicken livers in a food processor; if a creamier consistency is desired, add some oil or mayonnaise. Then, fill savory crepes with the creamy puréed liver and serve it with mushroom sauce for a gourmet appetizer or main course. NAVEL PASTRAMI or ROAST: 1) In a sandwich or salad. 2) Flatbread pastrami pizza: Smother some store-bought flatbread with BBQ sauce, top with arugula and sautéed red onions; drizzle some Caesar dressing over the top. TOMATO DIP: I always like to add tomato sauce to vegetable soups and leftover tomato dip is great for this. Add it to the base after sautéing the onions for an incredible addition of flavor. TAHINI: I like to use tahini in a variety of dishes. One of my favorite uses is drizzled on eggplant boats. Take a Japanese eggplant, slice in half and score a criss-cross pattern. Drizzle a generous amount of olive oil and bake in a preheated oven at 400°F for about 40-50 minutes until soft. Drizzle tahini and top with a good tomato-onion salad.

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HEALTHY PANTRY

Chia Seeds Health Bars B ananas Walnuts Yogurt Whole Chicken Fennel Cocoa Powder Fresh Herbs & Greens Frozen Berries

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HEALTHY PANTRY

HEALTHY PANTRY J

anuary elicits meme after meme and article after article about New Year’s goals. But for us, the fresh slate happens in September. It’s our time to recharge spiritually and, in conjunction with back-to-school season, oil the cogs in the no-days-off operation that we call “Running a Household.” I know I’m not the only one who has seen dozens of tips on how to create a healthy lifestyle and eliminate those short-lived diets. Yes, we’re told, they garner quick results, but the weight comes back two-fold. We vacillate between the tantalizing possibilities of quick weight loss and the arduous induction into a way of life that seems intimidating and dare I say, soulless.

BY RIVKI RABINOWITZ (@rivkirabinowitz)

I think my approach to healthy living changed when I truly reframed my mentality. It became: What will make me feel good? What will energize me today? And then, of course, what tastes good? What will excite my guests, guests with all different lifestyles and palates? In that process, my passion for healthy eating morphed from what I can’t eat, into figuring out what else I can include, and that positivity was the catalyst for the love I have today in creating healthy dishes. What’s that adage? Invention being necessity’s child? Ha! I knew I wouldn’t eat anything I didn’t normally enjoy. I couldn’t subsist on grilled chicken even if that gave me the body fat percentage of an Olympian. And truthfully? I think the fear-mongering that goes on toward introducing healthy diets is as much propaganda as anything else. You can have fun, you can enjoy, you can find that happy medium that allows you to fuel yourself with nutrient-dense food and then feel steady enough to have that cake. That is, if you want it.

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HEALTHY PANTRY

chicken skewers

slice

d pepper

kpe

Cherries

drie

chic

r d fruit ba

kpea puff

carrots

hi c d roaste

nuts

dried fruit

seaweed snacks

popcor 36

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granola bar

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r u O HEALTHY Pantry:

I THINK AS MOMS, IDEALLY, THE GOAL IS TO CREATE AN AWARENESS of the basic fundamentals of healthy eating and the food groups, without demonizing anything too much, or creating a harmful relationship to food. Does this sound hard? OH, IT IS! It took quite a few years where I carried around a duffel-sized load of guilt about the propensity my kids had to grabbing packaged snacks at their will and with an alarming frequency at that. Listen, they’re more accessible in local grocery stores, cheaper and fit perfectly into lunch boxes. But with so much not within our control, if I can control what comes in and out of my house, shouldn’t I? With a laser beam focus I set out to achieve “Project Reframing the Pantry.” With the simple facts that my eldest subsists on corn pops and pretzels, I knew limiting their intake would lead to a revolt at best, starvation at worst. I allocated packaged goodies to school snacks only and after school snacks for her would be any smaller version of dinner. For my other kiddos, whose pickiness is not an exclusively defining trait, the pantry became an extension of my personal nutrition knowledge and preferences.

After school, I take out some fruit, nuts, cheese or a smaller version of whatever dinner I’ve made. Does this sound like a parody to you? For many years, it was for me too. Does it sound like a full-time job, on top of my already full-time job and the mothering that by default is its own full-time job? Yeehaw! You’re right! But instead of saying, “Oh, but my kids love the sugary cereals, at least they’re eating,” I just stopped bringing them into my home. It took a few weeks drilling this as a priority into my own head, but then it successfully became routine. That’s not to say we’re no fun: Scout’s honor we still know how to get dowwwwn! As with my own nutrition goals, it’s not that any food is off limits- it’s about filling yourself up with the food that will revitalize you and help you glow from the inside out; and then truly making the delicious choices that are food for the soul.

How We Eat: Breakfast is without fanfare: often it’s cereal and milk and I’ll over-eagerly put some strawberries on the table. Winter months have me consistently eating a chia/ oatmeal mixture with nut butter and berries, overnight oats or protein pancakes and summer months mean smoothies. LUNCH will always consist of some kind of bowl- grain bowl, salad bowl, leftovers thrown into a bowl (can we make “coffee bowl” a thing?). My recent favorite is maple tempeh (see recipe pg. 44) with quinoa, avocado and kale. Nori wraps (nori, avocado, julienned cucumber, seared rare or raw tuna, alfalfa sprouts, shredded carrots) are another quick and filling lunch.

I know everyone’s days are frenetic in their pace and it’s not so much about eating Instagram-ready foods as it is about not fainting from starvation in the carpool line. It does not have to be @thefeedfeed worthy. Food. Eat it. Make it colorful. Drink water. You are already a success! DINNERS? The simpler the better. All you need is a solid sheet pan, punchy spices, minimal fats, healthy veg and protein and then choose to roast, stir fry, broil or grill. Roast a whole chicken over mushrooms and onions and serve with roasted kabocha squash and a kale salad.

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HEALTHY PANTRY

FOUNDATION CHIA SEED PUDDING

You know it, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve Googled it, now maybe you should start making it. Among their many benefits, chia seeds are good for the health of your skin and bones, aid digestion and boost your energy and metabolism. Read up on it!

Rivki Rabinowitz is a mom of 3 girls who is passionate about cooking- particularly with elevating the vegetable. Showcasing their diversity in modern and innovative preparation is her happy place! Find her cooking and lifestyle shenanigans on Instagram @rivkirabinowitz. 38

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HEALTHY PANTRY Serves: 2 4 tablespoons chia seeds 1 cup milk of choice This creates the gel-like texture chia seed pudding is known for. Here's where the fun begins: Sweeten how you like. Usually I add a dash of vanilla extract and about Âź teaspoon stevia. You can sweeten any which way you like- coconut sugar, maple syrup, coconut nectar, monk fruit, yacon syrup, the list goes on. What happened to plain old sugar? Oh, it still exists. Use that too if thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what you prefer!

ADD-INS:

You can also blend the pudding to yield a smooth texture; if the gelatinous texture scares you, that would be a great option. Chia pudding keeps well in the fridge, rendering it an amazing meal prep, on-the-go staple.

A) My go-to: I stew berries with some water in a pot over medium heat until they reduce into a jam-like consistency, then I layer that with the chia pudding. B) Take 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder and 3 tablespoons peanut butter powder (like PB2) and thoroughly mix it in with the chia seed pudding to combine. You can even add some of the stewed strawberries for a delicious PB&J experience. C) Chopped nuts and dried fruit work wonderfully as add-ins too; the options are limitless.

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HEALTHY PANTRY

CHOCOLATE CHIP BANANA

NUT MUFFINS Yields: 8 muffins

2 ripe bananas 3 eggs ⅓ cup old-fashioned oats 2 scoops vanilla protein powder ½ cup natural peanut butter 1 teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon maple syrup (optional) Handful of semi-sweet chocolate chips 8 walnuts, chopped

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Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly grease muffin molds with coconut oil. In a food processor, add the bananas, eggs, oats, protein powder, peanut butter, baking powder and maple syrup. Pulse for a few seconds until blended. Add the chocolate chips and stir with a spoon. Pour the mixture evenly into the muffin molds. Top with chopped walnuts. Bake on 350°F for 20 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

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Del Campo Pulled Beef Tacos - Serves 8 You will need:

• Chuck stew meat -4 lbs. cut into chunks. • Olive oil - 2 tablespoons • Salt - 1 tsp or to taste • Del Campo Garlic Pepper - 1 tsp • Del Campo Adobo Spice - 1 tsp • Del Campo Fajita Spice - 1 tsp • Del Campo Chili Powder - 1 Tbsp • Garlic - 4 cloves fresh, chopped • Onion - fresh, chopped • Tomato sauce - 2 cups • Barbecue sauce - 1 cup • DELCAMPO GOURMET MINI TACO SHELLS - 24 shells

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. 2. Heat oil in large frying pan . 3. Add meat to hot oil a few chunks at a time, and brown on all sides. 4. Remove browned chunks to a large, oven-safe casserole. Continue browning until all chunks are used. 5. Sprinkle salt and pepper on beef chunks. 6. Add all remaining Ingredients. 7. Cover casserole tightly, place in hot oven.

8. Bake until the meat is "fall-apart" and can be pulled apart easily with 2 forks. (Approx 2 ½ hours) 9. Stir shredded meat into sauce until well blended. 10. Fill taco shells with approximately 2 Tbsp meat. 11. Top with shredded lettuce. Leftover meat can be refrigerated or frozen. Expect people to ask for seconds and thirds!

Del Campo Tortilla Co. • Lakewood, NJ • Phone: 732.994.5500 • Email: taco2us@gmail.com Web: www.delcampotortillas.com • Instagram: delcampotortillas

HEALTHY PANTRY

EASIEST

FENNEL SLAW Serves: 4

The perfect alternative to coleslaw for your chicken or fish dishes. 1 large head fennel 2 small red grapefruits, sliced into supremes* 1 small navel orange, sliced into supremes 3 stalks celery, sliced thinly on the bias 1 tablespoon celery seeds 2 Medjool dates, thinly sliced (optional) Dressing: 2 tablespoons orange juice, reserved from the supremed orange 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon honey or 1 tablespoon stevia 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Âź teaspoon kosher salt

Slice off the top and bottom of the fennel and discard. Using a mandoline or a sharp knife, slice the fennel very thin. Combine with the citrus supremes, celery, celery seeds and dates, if using. Combine all the dressing ingredients and pour over the slaw. Mix well and refrigerate until ready to serve.

*Slice the bottom and top off the fruit. Using a sharp paring knife, run the knife from the top to the bottom, removing the peel and pith, being careful not to remove much of the fruit itself. Then, holding the peeled fruit in your palm, slice the fruit segments between the pith to form individual sections, or supremes. Squeeze out the juice. 42

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HEALTHY PANTRY HEALTHY PANTRY

MOCHA SMOOTHIE

FRAPPUCCINO(T) Serves: 1-2 There was a time in my life when the craving for a mocha Frappuccino was visceral. Try as I might to avoid the sugar-laden cup of dreams, by 5 PM the pull was primal and magnetic. Well, obviously this could not go on, so I created a version to satisfy my sweet tooth in a way that didn’t lead to that spike-and-crash we all know and dread. If you don’t have a frozen banana on hand, definitely use ice. 1 cup unsweetened nut milk of choice 1 frozen banana 1 tablespoon almond butter 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder Dash of brewed coffee or espresso 1 teaspoon honey, agave, maple syrup or stevia ½ teaspoon vanilla 1 cup ice cubes for added thickness (optional) 1 scoop chocolate flavored protein powder to make this a complete meal (optional) Blend all ingredients in a high powered blender. Serve topped with whipped cream and chocolate syrup, if you'd like.

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KALE HERB SALAD Serves: 6

This salad is the perfect bed for the maple tempeh. Kale adds heartiness, but feel free to sub it out for another green or omit and make it all about the herbs. 3 cups parsley, finely chopped 2 cups mint, finely chopped 2 cups kale 2 watermelon radishes, peeled and thinly sliced on a mandoline, or julienned 1 cup raw purple cauliflower florets ½ cup roasted golden beets, peeled and diced into ½-inch cubes Microgreens, optional Dressing: 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons maple syrup 3 tablespoons vinegar 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

MAPLE TEMPEH Serves: 8 A 3-ounce serving of tempeh has about 15 grams of protein and contains prebiotics, which are said to improve digestive health and reduce inflammation. Also, it tastes fantastic. 2 (16-ounce) packages tempeh ¼ cup maple syrup ¼ cup balsamic vinegar 2 teaspoons sesame, avocado or olive oil 3 tablespoons tamari sauce (we prefer San-J brand; use soy sauce or coconut aminos if you can’t find) 2 tablespoons oil, for frying Slice the tempeh into triangles. Add the maple syrup, balsamic vinegar, oil and tamari into a large dish; whisk to combine. Add the tempeh and allow to marinate in the fridge for 2 or up to 24 hours. Heat oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Reserve the marinade and pan fry the tempeh for 3-4 minutes per side, until golden brown. Add in the reserved marinade and cook until it reduces and becomes a syrupy glaze. Let cool and serve over salad.

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Combine the herbs, radishes, cauliflower and roasted beets together in a large serving bowl over kale, if using. Combine all the dressing ingredients and pour over the salad when ready to serve. Top with microgreens, if using.

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MY LOVE AFFAIR WITH FARMERS MARKETS BY LIZ RUEVEN

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WWW.KOSHERLIKEME.COM @KOSHERLIKEME

SEASONAL

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You probably learned to make do, to an extent, with the pareve variations of “milk”. When you’re tired of the phony stuff that clouds over in your coffee or tastes like vanilla-flavored water in your cereal, you might indulge a little anyway, and then experience after-effects of bloating, tummy aches, or even skin irritation. Are your only options to avoid life’s little blessings or suffer because of them?

WHO’S THE REAL VILLAIN?

Here’s what no one's ever told you: The problem is not always lactose, or even all cows. Another stealthy culprit? A1 beta casein, a protein found in the majority of cows bred in Europe, North America, and Australia. People who are intolerant to this protein may exhibit symptoms such as digestive discomfort, abdominal pain, and bloating. “The body breaks this protein (A1) down into a protein fragment BCM-7, which can cause inflammation of the GI tract,” says dietician Bonnie Johnsohn, in an interview with the Reader’s Digest.

MILK THAT AGREES WITH YOU IS BORN

In the year 2000, A2 milk was first sold in New Zealand. While traditional cows generally contain a mix of both A1 and A2 protein, A2 milk is from cows that were genetically tested to be naturally free of the A1 protein, just like sheep and goat milk. The best part? There’s no taste difference between A2 milk and standard cows’ milk with A1 protein, save for a delicious wholesome drink that your body can digest. Has anyone actually reported a measurable difference after trying the milk? Consider this randomized 2017 study published by the Nutritional Journal[1]: In a study involving two groups totaling 600 people, the group who drank standard milk reported more digestive discomfort than those who drank milk with only the A2 protein. The most remarkable aspect of the study: While both types of milk had the same amount of lactose, results were the same for participants who self-identified as lactose intolerant.

E R MILK

In less than 20 years, A2 milk has taken over 10% of the milk market in Australia and New Zealand. Because it was welcomed so favorably, just two years ago A2 milk arrived in the US as well—and consumption just keeps on growing.

SAY HELLO TO A1 FREE MILK. No need to miss out if you only drink Cholov Yisroel. Thanks to Devash, Cholov Yisroel A1 free milk can be in your cereal soon. A1 free milk is from cows genetically tested to be 99% free of the A2 protein. Unfortunately, A1 free milk is not a solution for everyone. If you’re sure that it’s the lactose or another ingredient in cow milk that you can’t tolerate, A1 free milk probably won’t help. But if you suspect that you’re sensitive to A1 protein or did not experience discomfort after drinking goat or sheep milk, give A1 free milk a shot. Look for the purple Devash milk bottles in the refrigerator section of all your favorite groceries. Indulge this summer in the heavenly blend of cinnamon vanilla iced latte with milk.

https://nutritionj.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s12937-017-0275-0

They might have said that lactose intolerance runs in the family, that your great grandmother passed it down along with her stubborn disposition and fear of bugs. Or you might have always just known that you and cows’ milk simply don’t get along.

[1]

be able to fully enjoy your morning coffee or iced latte again, they were

THE MILKS SUCCESS IS LEGENDARY

DON’ T C

NEVER WRONG. They said that you would

SHOP THE MARKET FOR THE FRESHEST INGREDIENTS POSSIBLE.

GET IN, HANG OUT, PERUSE, PURCHASE, DISCUSS, REFRESH, GET THE BEST. 48

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SEASONAL

live in a small town in Connecticut that has 400 years of farming history and a greenmarket that is supported by thousands of eager shoppers each week. My passion for shopping at farmers markets is as natural as the apple trees dotting the steep hills of nearby fruit orchards. I’m a hardcore locavore and am fortunate that I can take full advantage of my access to local and seasonal crops. Because I frequently entertain on Shabbat and weekends, I shop my Thursday market for the freshest ingredients possible. Sometimes the shift in offerings is astounding and even thrilling. One week, we’re hankering for corn and the next week, towers of glossy cobs beckon. Every Wednesday night I search my refrigerator for forgotten veggies. I’m often surprised that lettuce I bought the previous week is still crisp enough to be perked up in an ice bath. If not, I sauté it with some stray mushrooms or green onions, or add it to the bag of veggie scraps I collect in my freezer. When the bag is full, I empty it into the slow cooker and make a tasty and nutritious soup stock.

It’s likely that your farmer (or a nearby shopper) will have something to say about the texture, color and flavor of those yellow and crimson plums you’re eyeing. Buy a few pounds and you’ll likely have the best plum salad you’ve ever tasted. If you’re hoping to make poached pears for that dinner you’re hosting, best to ask your farmer if he/she has a variety that’s firm enough to hold up to simmering liquid. If you want to know which pears are best for baking, you’ll be directed to those that won’t turn to mush in tarts. If you live in an area without local greenmarkets or it’s simply impractical for you to shop this way, shop your supermarket with an eye out for the word “local.” Supermarkets have noticed that

S O M E T I M E S L O C A L M A Y BEAT OUT ORGANIC If you live in a community with a farmers market and you shop it frequently, you will start to gravitate towards certain growers. Some are friendlier than others. Some have a wider array of vegetables and fruits to sell than others. Some share recipe ideas and cooking techniques with great enthusiasm. Unlike shopping in a large store, your farmers market offers you an immersive experience.

home cooks want to know where their food is grown. Some supermarkets are even listing the farm’s name and town where they’ve sourced a particular crop from. Organic is expensive because the process of growing without chemicals and obtaining the organic certification is much more costly than growing with chemical fertilizers. Sometimes local may beat out organic in your evaluation. You decide.

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BENEFITS OF SHOPPING AT FARMERS

MARKETS

SEASONAL

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Fresh and unprocessed ingredients yield better flavors that allow simple ingredients to shine. Cooking in coordination with the seasons helps us to prepare for Shabbat and holidays with refreshed enthusiasm and new ideas. Healthier farming practices mean that by buying from certain farmers, you’re contributing to a healthier planet. Farmers markets are community gathering places and encourage us to slow down and enjoy conversations with people we meet.

Helpful tips for navigating an open air market Go early for the best selection. Bring more reusable bags than you think you’ll need. Bring a cooler bag with ice packs. Bring cash and a credit card. Speak with the farmer/vendor. Ask for samples. Speak to other shoppers. If you see a woman chatting it up with the vendor, she’s a regular. She’s probably a great cook, too.

When we take a break from the monotony of the supermarket, it energizes our spirits and creativity and supports small farms and businesses.

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PLUM SALAD WITH MINTY CARDAMOM DRESSING

While early autumn plums are still sweet and local, consider jazzing them up for an easy dessert. This lemony honey dressing, seasoned with cinnamon and cardamom, moistens the fruit and is a perfect match to serve alongside honey cake or chocolate cake. Choose a variety of at least two different plums as the contrast of colors and flavors will be more interesting. Plums should be just shy of ripe, so they stay firm in this dessert. It’s best to slice plums and dress them on the same day you’re serving them. Add fresh herbs right before serving so they stay vibrant and bright.

Note: Basil leaves may be substituted for fresh mint. 6 medium red plums or a mix of varieties, rinsed and dried 2 whole lemons, juiced ¼ cup honey 1 teaspoon ground cardamom 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Pinch of kosher salt 2 tablespoons good quality olive oil ½ cup fresh mint leaves, rinsed, patted dry and thinly sliced

Remove the pits and slice each plum into 8 even sections. Place fruit into a mixing bowl and dress with half the lemon juice, honey, cardamom, cinnamon, salt and olive oil. Toss gently. Taste for seasoning and add more lemon juice if desired. Just before serving, gently mix half the mint leaves into the fruit salad. Garnish the fruit with remaining mint.

IT DOESN’T GET BETTER THAN FARM FRESH.

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E D D N E L B Y M P U A O S E RN CO

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Serves 8-10 If your family enjoys corn straight through the late summer and into autumn, be sure to freeze 8-10 corn cobs in an airtight freezer bag so youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be ready to make a simple stock for this delightfully creamy (and pareve!!) soup. Consider serving this velvety soup on the second day of Rosh Hashana or Sukkot, when your family has had their fill of chicken soup. While local corn is harvested well into autumn, this soup tastes like a sunny summer day in a bowl.

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SEASONAL Soup stock: 8 cobs fresh corn 2 large onions, peeled and quartered 4 cloves garlic, peeled and quartered 2 carrots, peeled and roughly chopped 1 teaspoon kosher salt Soup: 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish 1 large onion, peeled and chopped ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper (or to taste) 2 medium tomatoes, chopped 1 medium potato, peeled and chopped 2 cups reserved corn kernels ⅛ small jalapeño pepper (optional), seeded, deveined and chopped 8 cups corn stock (supplement with vegetable broth if needed) 5 tablespoons fresh herbs of choice (basil, mint, parsley) rinsed and chopped, and reserve 1-2 tablespoons for garnish 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Make the stock: Shave the corn cobs, reserving 2 cups of kernels for the soup. Place the cobs and the rest of the stock ingredients into a large pot. Cover the ingredients with water plus an additional 2 inches of water. Cover pot and bring to a boil. Lower heat to an active simmer and cook for 45 minutes, stirring once or twice. When finished, remove from heat, uncover and cool. Strain liquid through a colander, reserving stock and discarding vegetables. Measure corn stock, adding enough store bought broth, if necessary, to equal 8 cups broth total. Set aside.

Note: This soup may be prepared 2-3 days ahead of serving and stored in the refrigerator. It freezes well, too. Alternatively, simmer the corn cob stock and freeze ahead so that you’ll be halfway done when it’s time to make the soup. The homemade stock is a wonderful base for this soup, but if short on time, vegetable broth can be used instead.

Make the soup: In a soup pot, heat olive oil over medium heat and sauté the onions until translucent. Season with salt and pepper. Add chopped tomatoes and sauté for 5 minutes. Add chopped potato, corn kernels, jalapeño (if using) and the stock. Cover the pot and simmer actively for 30 minutes. Add 4 tablespoons of fresh herbs and remove pot from heat. Allow soup to cool slightly. Using an immersion blender, a powerful traditional blender or a food processor with the S blade, purée the soup until smooth. Slowly add lime juice and taste for seasoning. Add more citrus, salt or pepper to taste. Serve in bowls or cups, garnished with a swirl of olive oil and reserved fresh herbs.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Good

Bones

BY NAFTALI HANAU

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCHNEUR MENAKER

Bones that’ll get you on your feet.

you call it chicken soup or bone broth, that rich golden elixir that stars on so many Shabbat and W hether holiday tables (and bedsides) gets its superpowers not from the meat of the animals used to make it, but

ME TO

their bones. Although a boneless steak may be easier to cook, bones are rich in calcium and gelatin and a bone-in steak delivers richer flavors, making it well worth the effort. When cooked with care and patience and integrated into a dish, bones can impart rich, earthy, sweet flavors and velvety textures to soups, stews and sauces. BO

NE ZON

Marrow bones

Knuckle bones

are cut from the shank (leg)

come from joints that are

and are full of rich, delicious

especially high in collagen.

“knuckle” are generally from other

marrow. Roast them on their

If you’re looking to make a

parts of the shank, rib or back and are

own or add one or two to a

therapeutic bone broth that

best used for making soup. They won’t

broth or stew (but don’t use a

is high in collagen and other

have much meat on them, but with slow

lot if making soup or stew—

nutrients and that gels when

cooking will create a flavorful broth.

the marrow will make it too

cold, use knuckle bones

Beef and veal bones will give a richer

rich).

(sometimes called “jelly bones”

flavor to your broth if you roast them

for this reason).

first (400°F for 15-25 minutes).

Beef or veal bones that are not called “marrow” or

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Bone Broth: Centuries-Old Comfort Food BY SHIFRA KLEIN

one broth has been enjoyed for centuries as a form of sustenance and comfort. Packed with nutrients and flavor, bone broth is liquid gold. Bone broth was all the rage back in the day and, due to its nutritious qualities and gourmet preparations, bone broth has been trending for a few years now. From Japanese Ramen to Yemenite Soup to classic Jewish Chicken Soup, it’s here to stay.

From a health perspective, bone broth is rich in protein, gelatin and glycine, which is great for detoxifying and promoting gut health and good skin. Chinese medicine has used this broth for its healing properties for hundreds of years. From a flavor perspective, bone broth brings a bounty of umami flavor to

dishes such as gravies, soups and stews and everything in between. In today’s culture of zero waste, bone broth provides the opportunity to not only use the less-desirable parts of meat or poultry, but also to use up vegetable scraps and veggies on the verge of expiration. As the broth simmers, onion peels, rough edges of carrots, celery cores, mushrooms and even too-soft tomatoes can be added to give the broth additional boosts of flavor. The uses for bone broth are truly limitless. My favorite way to use bone broth is in Yemenite soup. Truth be told, bone broth is a great base for any soup, even your favorite vegetable soup.

IS IT?

Broth:

Stock:

Bone Broth:

Broth uses more meat than bones and is simmered for a shorter period of time, about 1-2 hours. It has a light flavor and a thin, liquidy texture.

Stock uses more bones than meat and is simmered for 3-4 hours. The bones themselves (i.e. neck or knee bones) are commonly roasted before being added to the broth. The flavor of stock tends to be richer than broth and the texture becomes more gelatinous once refrigerated.

Bone broth is like a stock taken to the next level. It’s simmered for much longer (sometimes up to 24 hours), resulting in a VERY gelatinous broth with extremely deep flavor.

BONE BROTH RECIPE Makes: 8 quarts 2 pounds knee bones 2 pounds marrow bones 1 pound knuckle bones 1 large onion, peel on 3 stalks celery 2 carrots 1 head garlic 2 tablespoons black peppercorns 3 bay leaves 2 teaspoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar Fill a 12 quart pot with bones and cover with water. Bring to a boil. Once boiling, strain liquid and wash pot from any remaining scum. This step ensures a clean and clear tasting broth. Place bones back in clean pot, fill with water and add remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil. Lower to a simmer and cover pot. Cook for 12-24 hours, making sure that the fire does not exceed a low simmer. Strain broth and cool. Transfer broth to containers for later use or use to make chicken soup or Yemenite soup (recipe follows). You can refrigerate broth for a week and freeze for 6 months.

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W W L T H AT BO

YO U OV

Yemenite Soup THE SECRET TO THE ULTIMATE YEMENITE SOUP IS TO USE HOMEMADE BONE BROTH AS YOUR BASE. YOU’LL FEEL THE LOVE WITH EVERY SIP.

Moroccan Chicken Soup with Couscous Serves: 8 1 tablespoon oil 1 onion, diced 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 teaspoons turmeric 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 cinnamon stick 1 chicken, cut into eighths 8 cups bone broth 2 cups cubed butternut squash 2 cups sliced carrots 2 sliced zucchinis 1 can chickpeas 4 cups prepared couscous* Heat oil in a large pot over medium 58

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heat. Sauté the onion 3-4 minutes, until slightly translucent. Add in salt, pepper, turmeric, cinnamon stick and tomato paste and cook for 5 minutes over medium heat, stirring frequently. Add chicken and bone broth and bring to a boil. Once boiled, add the vegetables and cover; simmer for 90 minutes. Add chickpeas and simmer 10 more minutes. Serve over prepared couscous. *Couscous: Bring 2 cups water to a boil. Add ½ teaspoon kosher salt and 2 teaspoons of olive oil. Once water is boiling, turn off heat and stir in 2 cups couscous. Cover pot and allow to sit, covered, for

10 minutes. Remove lid. Fluff with a fork and serve.

P’tcha Serves: 12 This old-school delicacy epitomizes the zero waste mentality that came out of necessity rather than being in “style.” It is an Ashkenazi Shabbos and Yom Tov dish that varies based upon who your Bubby is. Some make it with hard boiled eggs, some serve with cholent or crackers. If you’ve never tried it, it can best be described as meat-bone jello. Jello shots of collagen, anyone? 1 pound bones for p’tcha

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BUTCHER'S CUT Tiles by: www.tilebar.com

YEMENITE SOUP RECIPE Serves: 12 1 pound knuckle bones 1 pound bone marrow 1 pound calf's foot bones 3 pounds flanken (with or without bones) 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 onion, diced 2 carrots, diced 3 stalks celery, diced 6 cloves garlic, minced ¼ cup hawaij spice blend ¼ cup tomato paste 8 cups bone broth 3 potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks, optional 1 (15-ounce) can white navy beans Preheat the oven to 450°F. Lay the bones (and flanken) out onto a sheet pan in a single layer, sprinkle with kosher salt and roast for 20 minutes. In the meantime, heat a 10- 12quart pot over medium heat. Add oil and sauté the onions, carrots and celery until translucent, about 10-15 minutes. Add garlic and sauté an additional minute. Stir in the hawaij and tomato paste. Stir frequently until toasted, about 10 minutes. Add flanken, bones and bone broth to pot. Bring to a boil. Season with salt and pepper. Lower heat and cook 1½ hours. Add potatoes and cook an additional 40 minutes. Add beans and cook an additional 15 minutes. Serve hot with toasted bread, pita or kubaneh.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Roasted Marrow Bones with Grapefruit Pistachio Gremolata MARROW BONES CAN BE EXPENSIVE BUT MAKE A GLAMOROUS, GOURMET APPETIZER. MAKE SURE YOU BUY BONES THAT ARE SLICED IN HALF HORIZONTALLY/LENGTHWISE. YOU WILL PROBABLY HAVE TO ORDER IN ADVANCE FROM YOUR BUTCHER, BUT THEY SHOULD BE HAPPY TO ACCOMODATE. THE GREMOLATA IS THE PERFECT ACCOMPANIMENT TO THE RICH MARROW.

Serves: 6 6 marrow bone halves 2 teaspoons oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 cup ppacked fresh parsley leaves, finely minced 1 clove garlic, grated or finely minced 1 tablespoon olive oil Zest of 1 grapefruit 1 tablespoon grapefruit juice ½ cup chopped pistachios Maldon salt, for garnish Toasted bread, for serving

Preheat oven to 450°F. Place marrow bones on a baking sheet. Brush with oil and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 20 minutes. While bones are roasting, make the gremolata by combining the parsley, garlic, olive oil, grapefruit zest, grapefruit juice and pistachios. Remove bones from oven, top with pistachio gremolata and Maldon salt flakes. Serve hot with toast.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

P’TCHA Serves: 12 This old-school delicacy epitomizes the zero waste mentality that came out of necessity rather than being in “style.” It is an Ashkenazic Shabbos and Yom Tov dish that varies based upon who your Bubby is. Some make it with hard boiled eggs, some serve with cholent or crackers. If you’ve never tried it, it can best be described as meat-bone jello. 1 pound bones for p’tcha 1 head garlic 6 cloves garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon paprika (optional) Pinch black pepper

GET INTO YOUR COMFORT ZONE.

Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Sauté the onion 3-4 minutes, until slightly translucent. Add in salt, cayenne pepper, turmeric, tomato paste and cinnamon stick and cook for 5 minutes over medium heat, stirring frequently. Add chicken and bone broth and bring to a boil. Once boiled, add the vegetables and cover; simmer for 90 minutes. Add chickpeas and simmer 10 more minutes. Serve over prepared couscous.

Simmer bones and garlic in 6 cups of water, covered, for 24 hours. You can also pressure cook the bones and garlic (we used our Instant Pot) in water for 2-3 hours on high pressure. You know it’s ready when the bones are soft to the touch and crumble with slight pressure. Strain bones and reserve 4 cups stock. Clean bones of all meat and cartilage and add the crushed garlic. Pour the meat-garlic mixture into the reserved 4 cups stock and add spices. Pour into a half-sized sheet pan. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight so it sets. Slice in cubes and serve with hard boiled eggs, crackers, sliced onions and chopped parsley. Keeps for a week in the fridge or 2 months in the freezer.

COLLAGEN JELLO SHOTS, ANYONE?

*Couscous: Bring 2 cups water to a boil. Add ½ teaspoon kosher salt and 2 teaspoons olive oil. Once water is boiling, turn off heat and stir in 2 cups couscous. Cover pot and allow to sit for 10 minutes. Remove lid. Fluff with a fork and serve. 62

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Top rated Grow & Behold favorite

Dry Aged 2” Cowboy Steak I wish there was a rating higher than “The Best.” Based on the price, it was hard for me to justify this purchase. I’m so glad that I did ... I have never had a kosher steak as delicious as this one ... Worth every penny!

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WHEN SUPPER BECOMES DINNER Leah batters her baked

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with Trufﬂe Mayo before baking it Shloime dips his grilled

VEGGIES

into Trufﬂe Mayo

Raizy serves her fried

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with a shpritz of Trufﬂe Mayo Chaim tops his oh so famous

FRIES

with Trufﬂe Mayo

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Brooklyn, NY 11234 USA www.tfusionsteakhouse.com Under the hashgacha of Rav Yisroel Gornish

t r e s s

HEALTHY-ISH

e D

e S i P C e

with tahy heal twist ar from

w eidens Box S a s by Roose Baker Lilyr

Long Gone

are the days when margarine and shortening were staple baking ingredients. In 2019 we are all so much more health conscious then we were just a few years ago and our bodies are thanking us for it. I’m a big believer of the mantra, ‘everything in moderation’ and eating foods that make you feel good, especially dessert. The following recipes were developed with healthier options in mind and while you’ll notice that some of the ingredients listed are considered ‘good for you,’ rest assured that when developing these recipes, taste was not compromised! Happy Baking! SEPTEMBER 2019

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HEALTHY-ISH

d C e t al

e t a l co

Coo

Chunk

kies Gooey, chewy, salty.

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F S ruit

ushi

Dessert that wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make you desert your healthy lifestyle.

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HEALTHY-ISH

ouâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; R e

o t t

u o b

d e g d u

f t e g

up.

Serve warm with vanilla ice cream.

Hot Chocolate Fudge Cake

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Round

HEALTHY-ISH

is OUT

SareA u q

Lemon Cherry Squares SEPTEMBER 2019

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HEALTHY-ISH

SALTED CHOCOLATE CHUNK COOKIES Yields: 20 cookies

When these come out of the oven, they are crispy, gooey and chewy all at once. They freeze great too and are a delicious treat straight from the freezer.

Sprinkle some Maldon salt on the cookies. Bake for 8-9 minutes until edges are golden brown and centers are still soft. Transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool. Store in a sealed container at room temperature for 2 days or in the freezer for up to a month.

FRUIT SUSHI Yields: 3 sushi rolls

Baker's Note: Spoon flour into measuring cup and then level it off with a knife in order to get accurate measurements. Don’t scoop it up as that tightly packs the flour. For best results, refrigerate the dough 1-24 hours before baking cookies. ⅓ cup almond butter 2 tablespoons vegetable oil ½ cup dark brown sugar ¼ cup sugar 1 egg 1 teaspoon vanilla extract ¾ cup whole wheat flour 1 teaspoon kosher salt ¾ teaspoon baking soda ¾ cup chocolate chunks Maldon Salt Preheat oven to 375°F. Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. In a large mixing bowl, beat almond butter, oil and sugars until well blended. Add egg and vanilla and beat until light and fluffy. Mix in flour, salt and baking soda until just combined, making sure not to overmix. Add in chocolate chunks and mix with your hands or a wooden spoon. Using a small cookie scoop or a tablespoon, scoop about 1½ tablespoons of cookie dough on the prepared cookie sheets, leaving 1½-inches between each cookie.

Rice paper is unique in that it goes from hard and tough to soft and pliable once dipped in warm water, in no time at all. Once it is soft, work quickly. The results are stunningly impressive. 1 cup water ¾ cup white sushi rice 1 ½ tablespoon sugar ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup coconut milk 3 sheets of rice paper Assorted fruit cut into strips; we used kiwi, mango, strawberries, basil, mint and microgreens Assorted fillings; we used halva and chopped pecans Strawberry jam Cook the sushi rice: In a medium saucepan bring water to a boil. Add the rice, sugar and salt. Cook for about 20 minutes. When the rice is cooked add the coconut milk and stir well to combine. It will be very sticky. Transfer to a bowl and allow to cool. Assemble the sushi: Dip rice paper in warm water. Lay sliced fruit in center of rice paper round. Top with sushi rice, halva or nuts (if using) and fold like an eggroll. Serve with strawberry jam for dipping.

HOT CHOCOLATE FUDGE CAKE Yields: 12 servings

¼ cup sugar ½ cup brown sugar ½ cup cocoa powder, divided 1 cup whole spelt flour 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt ⅓ cup coconut oil (or mashed avocado) ¼ cup 100% silan (date syrup) 1½ teaspoons vanilla extract ½ cup almond milk 1 teaspoon granulated coffee dissolved in 1¼ cups boiling water Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 9-inch oval baking dish with non-stick baking spray. In a small mixing bowl, whisk together sugar, brown sugar and ¼ cup of cocoa powder until all combined. Set aside. In a large mixing bowl, add the remaining ¼ cup of cocoa powder, flour, baking powder and salt; whisk to combine. Add the silan, coconut oil (or mashed avocado), vanilla and almond milk. Mix well until fully incorporated. Pour batter into prepared baking dish. Spoon sugar/cocoa mixture evenly over the top of the cake batter. Pour the coffee over the top of the sugar/cocoa mixture. Don’t mix. Bake for 25-30 minutes. The bottom will still be gooey and the top should be baked completely.

LEMON CHERRY SQUARES Yields: 16 squares

¾ cup vegetable oil ¾ cup sugar 1 large egg ¼ cup lemon juice (approximately the juice of 1 small lemon) 2 ¼ cups white spelt flour ½ teaspoon baking powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 cup cherries, cut in quarters Glaze (optional): 1 cup powdered sugar 1 tablespoon cherry preserves 1-2 tablespoons lemon juice Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 9x13-inch baking dish with non-stick baking spray. In a large mixing bowl, whisk the oil with the sugar. Add the egg and lemon juice and whisk until it becomes a light yellow. Fold in the flour, baking powder and salt. Pour batter into prepared pan and spread with a spatula so that it is evenly distributed. Place the cherries inside the batter one by one so that the batter doesn’t turn red. Bake for 20-25 minutes. Let cool completely before removing from the pan. If using, prepare the glaze: Mix together powdered sugar, preserves and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, adding more juice if necessary to get desired consistency. It should be spreadable but still thick. Drizzle the glaze over cooled cake and cut into squares.

Rosa Seidenwar, the founder of Lilyrose Bakers Box, is a certified Pastry Chef and mom of 5. She is passionate about baking (and French fries) and creating pretty things but knows, from experience, that life can get busy. Chef Rosa’s recipes are famous for being quick and easy, while also being equally delicious and photo-worthy. Rosa and her family live in a small settlement in the south of Israel. You can follow her adventures, both baking and life, on Instagram @lilyrose_bakersbox. 72

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HOW TO BALANCE A COCKTAIL

THE WOMEN BEHIND /

the Brooklyn-based cocktail catering company Spice + Spirit are on a mission to make cocktail culture accessible to everyone. This month they share their secret to making the perfect drink. Every bartender knows that, just like cooking, mixology is all about balancing flavors. If you understand the fundamentals, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll never need to look at a cocktail recipe again. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be able to make a delicious drink with confidence at any time with whatever ingredients you have on hand.

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WHAT MAKES A COCKTAIL BALANCED?

 There are 4 basic flavor components of a cocktail: alcohol, bitter, sweet and sour. You need the right combination, or balance, to create a delicious drink. However, not all cocktails have all 4; some use just 3 such as an Old Fashioned, which is made simply of whiskey, sugar and bitters. It has no true sour element, despite the addition of an orange peel. A cocktail is unbalanced when one element or flavor overpowers the others. You may recall an instance when you poured too much liquor into a mixed drink and the result was undrinkable, or way too “strong.” Similarly, a drink can taste too tart if the citrus juice isn’t balanced with enough sweetener. If a cocktail is cloyingly sweet, it probably needs more citrus, base spirit or both. Bitters are a bartender’s best friend. A touch of bitterness adds complexity to your cocktails. If you make yourself a drink and it tastes bland or boring, try adding a bitter component. It’s incredible what a few dashes of Angostura bitters can do. If you love bitterness, experiment with using whole ounces of an amaro or an aperitivo such as Campari or Aperol (they will add some sweetness as well, so keep that in mind when adding any additional sugar element such as simple syrup). Another trick is to take care that your drink is properly diluted. In other words, ensuring that it has the proper amount of water, which is introduced when you shake or stir it with ice, is critical. If a cocktail tastes too diluted, you may have shaken or stirred it for too long. If a drink tastes too strong, no problem! You can always put it back in your shaker with some fresh ice and shake it a little longer.

THE ESSENTIAL HOME BAR TOOL

L'CHAIM

JIGGER

To accurately measure your ingredients, a jigger is paramount. Just as a baker would never attempt to bake a cake without a set of measuring cups or spoons, an excellent bartender would never try to guess the amount of ingredients by sight or feel alone. A jigger is a tiny measuring cup that measures fluid ounces, typically up to 2 ounces and down to a 1/4 ounce. Jiggers come in different shapes, styles, colors and materials. We prefer the Japanese style jiggers, which are slender and made from stainless-steel, but anything goes! Find one you like and treasure it.

CLASSIC PROPORTIONS Now that you have your jigger, you’re ready to learn some standard cocktail proportions. As a general rule, most refreshing cocktails have 1½-2 ounces of base spirit and ¾ ounce each of fresh citrus juice and sweetener, although some increase the citrus juice to 1 ounce. This rule doesn’t apply to direct or stirred drinks like Martinis and Manhattans, which don’t have any juice. A Martini contains 2 ounces of gin and 1 ounce of dry vermouth. A Manhattan is comprised of 2 ounces rye whiskey, 1 ounce of sweet vermouth and 2 dashes of Angostura bitters. Do you notice a pattern?

HOW TO EXPERIMENT AND TASTE YOUR WAY TO A BALANCED DRINK Balancing drinks is both a science and an art. Start your cocktail making journey by following classic recipes and measurements to learn the science of cocktails, then venture into experimenting. Make a drink, record your measurements, taste it and adjust. Entering the world of liqueurs, amaros, sherries and vermouths can be exciting and intimidating because you’re never quite sure what the product will taste like until you actually try it. The more you play, the more intuitive it will become. Somewhere along the way, we hope you find a love for the process. When you find a magical marriage of ingredients, it’s the best feeling. Sipping on it is just the maraschino cherry on top (of your Manhattan). (See page 81 for a classic Gimlet recipe.)

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Fleishigs

COOKBOOK REVIEW

SHUK FROM MARKET TO TABLE, THE HEART OF ISRAELI HOME COOKING BY EINAT ADMONY & JANNA GUR REVIEW BY SHIFRA KLEIN

In Brief: Title: Shuk: From Market to Table, the Heart of Israeli Home Cooking Author: Einat Admony & Janna Gur Pages: 368 Price: $35 Publisher: Artisan Books Photos: 125 color photographs

Book’s Theme: Many of us have who have visited and toured Israel always leave wanting more with fantasies of spending a full year taking in everything it has to offer. From a food perspective, the thought of strolling through the markets and eating seasonally and authentically like a true Israeli (but with a bit of our own American flair, if we are being honest), is a dream. Einat and Janna’s book, appropriately titled Shuk, takes you on this adventure, showcasing the various markets Israel has to offer, sharing the vibes, people, ingredients and finally the recipes inspired by this unique culture. It is all presented in a lively, vibrant, fun and thoughtful book, all the ways I would choose to describe Einat, which became ever more clear after hanging out with her at our recent Fleishigs dinner at Alenbi (see Restaurant Chronicles in the August Israel issue).

SFICHA

Yemenite Malawach with Spicy Ground Beef, Spinach and Poached Egg Best described as panfried puff pastry, and quite similar to Indian paratha, malawach is a unique, complicated Yemenite bread that, thankfully, comes in frozen form. You can even find it in the kosher sections of supermarkets in the States (or order it online). Delicious on its own or with some grated tomatoes and s’chug (which is how we ate it growing up and how it’s traditionally served in little eateries at shuks all over the country), malawach becomes downright irresistible when topped with meat and spinach and crowned with a poached egg. Fold it over like a slice of pizza and dig in, letting the warm, runny egg mix with the meat and the spinach and drip down your chin— yes, it gets drippy! If poached eggs sound intimidating, see the variations for easier options. (see recipe on page 81)

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The Recipes: The book offers a mix of famous classics like hummus and tahini, ethnic dishes like Doro Wot (an Ethiopian chicken stew), Sficha (Yemenite malawach with spicy ground beef, spinach and poached egg), T'bit (Iraqi rice-chicken stew) and Einat’s signature modern updates like Strawberry Arak Gazpacho and Yemenite Curry Shakshuka (perfectly described in the book as "Cinderella in a Skillet"). Shuk offers a wonderful mix of new and old with lots of detailed guides that ensure you will have success with techniques like roasted eggplant and homemade couscous.

Standout Features: What makes this book especially unique is the focus on 8 markets throughout Israel. Each market is introduced with a general history, best time to visit and Einat and Janna’s top few stalls and food spots to try. The Shuks included: Levinsky Market, Carmel Market, HaTikva Market, Tel Aviv Port Farmers Market, Machane Yehudah Market, The Old City Bazaar, Wadi Nisnas Market and Old Akko Market.

In Conclusion: This book is easy to read and understand, so it is perfect for the beginner but also offers enough new ideas and recipes that a gourmet cook would appreciate. It is also a great option for those who are looking for more than just a cookbook and want a fully immersive cultural experience. For those who like to travel, this is a great start for discovering the various food markets Israel has to offer. Recipe excerpted with permission from Shuk by Einat Admony and Janna Gur (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2019. SEPTEMBER 2019

Fleishigs

Chef Elior Balbul

Experience

INTERVIEW

BY SHIFRA KLEIN

Chef Sheli Bar-Niv

ichelin

Sheli Bar-Niv graduated top of her class at Bishulim Culinary School in Israel and trained in some of Israel's best establishments. Sheli was a computer science student when she realized her true passion is pastry. Being a passion-driven and ambitious person, Sheli pursued her new career all the way to one of the top pastry departments in the world at 11 Madison Park, a 3 Michelin-starred restaurant where she

Liron Egozi is an impassioned culinary creator and current sous chef at the world renowned, Michelin-starred restaurant The Musket Room in NYC. For Egozi, an Israeli national, food is a vessel for experiential and historical continuity, for the transmission of memory, a single bite bridging divides and merging cultures thatâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;outside of the plateâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;might otherwise exist at odds with one another.

Fleishigs

SEPTEMBER 2019

Chef Liron Egozi

currently serves as Chef de Partie.

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n a bright summer day, I headed to a quaint café in Manhattan to meet with Elior Balbul, executive chef at Alenbi Kitchen in Brooklyn, along with Liron Egozi, esteemed sous chef at The Musket Room in New York City and Sheli Bar-Niv, pastry chef at 11 Madison Park in New York City. It was a true meeting of the minds to discuss Alenbi’s upcoming birthday celebration concept that is Chef Elior’s brainchild. Elior believes that the kosher market truly has no limits and is constantly brainstorming ways to reflect this belief. His latest idea, which we hope is only one of many, is to bring a Michelin-starred dining experience to the kosher market. To do this, he is collaborating with Liron and Sheli who both currently work at (non-kosher) Michelin star restaurants. After discussing menu ideas and how to transform Alenbi for the event, from training staff to changing furniture, we chatted with the chefs to learn a bit more about their backgrounds and their feelings about cooking Michelin-level food in a kosher restaurant.

What is your personal and cooking background?

What do you think is the biggest challenge in cooking kosher?

Liron Egozi: I’m originally from Israel and started working as a line cook at Timna (located in NYC) whose head chef, Nir Mesika, is great friends with Elior. This is how Elior and I connected. I’m self-taught and worked my way up at The Musket Room, from line cook to cold section to sous chef.

Sheli: for a chef in a meat restaurant, cooking and baking without butter!

Sheli Bar-Niv: I was born in Israel and am currently the pastry chef (more specifically the bread and cheese department) at 11Madison Park in NYC. I trained at the Bishulim Culinary School in Israel and took many courses to perfect my pastry skills. I’ve been a pastry chef at 11 Madison Park for almost 3 years now.

Favorite Ingredients?

What is it like working in a Michelinstarred restaurant restaurant? Liron: It can be intense but it’s so satisfying and we are always learning something new. I feel like a kid in a candy store every day. We get to experiment with new ingredients and new techniques. Sheli: At 11 Madison Park, every 2 months each chef needs to propose a new menu item just to keep us thinking outside the box and growing as chefs. Everything has to be precise and perfect all day, every day.

What is your favorite dish? Sheli: Buttery babka. Liron: It’s like asking who your favorite parent is!

Liron: Even from a savory perspective, butter and cream play a large role in most nonkosher recipes. Every French basic starts (and ends) with butter, so to contemplate a menu without it is a challenge, to say the least.

Liron: Greens, herbs, citrus and proteins. Sheli: Butter, chocolate and fruit.

What inspired you to join Elior in this kosher Michelin experience? Sheli: I’m excited to work with fellow Israelis and am looking forward to the challenge. It will be interesting to see what we come up with! Liron: This is home to us; we talk the same language, come from the same place and I am excited for the challenge to plan and present a unique Michelin-quality kosher dining experience. I’m also intrigued to learn more about a completely new way of approaching food.

How can people attend the upcoming Michelin experience? Elior: The dinner will take place September 23 & 24. There are a limited number of seats. The best way to reserve is to visit Alenbi's website, www.alenbikitchen.com.

Michelin Stars 101 BY CHAVIVA GORDON-BENNETT If you’re wondering what a tire manufacturer has to do with one of the world’s most coveted culinary honors, the connection goes back to the advent of the automobile. In 1889, French brothers André and Édouard Michelin acquired a rubber factory and started manufacturing tires. A decade later, in an effort to encourage people to drive more—and thus buy more tires—the brothers started publishing the Michelin Guide. By 1926, the company was sending anonymous diners to fine dining establishments across Europe to write reviews for the guide, which led to the creation in 1931 of the now-famous Michelin star system that dictates the who’s who of the culinary world. As Michelin stars are focused wholly on the cuisine, Michelin’s small army of anonymous inspectors overlook the decor and service of the restaurant when awarding stars and instead focus on 5 fooddriven factors: •

Quality of ingredients

•

Mastery of flavor and cooking techniques

•

Presence of the chef’s personality in the cuisine

•

Value

•

Consistency between visits

True to its road-tripping origins, Michelin stars indicate the quality of a restaurant’s fare relative to the effort it takes to get there: Cooking doesn’t pass Michelin muster and isn’t worth the trip. High-quality, consistent cooking that is worth a stop. Excellent, skillfully crafted cooking that is worth a detour. Exceptionally executed cooking, featuring unmatched ingredients, that is worth a special journey. FUN FACTS: U.S. restaurants weren’t eligible to earn Michelin stars until 2005. When Reserve Cut (NYC) hired Chef Richard Farnabe as corporate chef this past March, it became the first kosher restaurant in the United States to have a Michelin-starred chef on staff. Known for his perfectionist French cuisine and hot temper, French Chef Joël Robuchon and his dozen restaurants around the globe touted 32 stars at the time of his death in 2018—the most Michelin stars of any chef. SEPTEMBER 2019

Fleishigs

SPILL OVER (from Cookbook Review page 76)

SFICHA YEMENITE MALAWACH WITH SPICY GROUND BEEF, SPINACH AND POACHED EGG Serves 4 Meat topping 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped 1 or 2 small jalapeño chiles, cored, seeded, and finely chopped 1 pound (455 g) ground beef 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley ¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 tablespoon sweet paprika 1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1 tablespoon ground cumin 1 bay leaf 1 tablespoon kosher salt ¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup (35 g) pine nuts, toasted ¼ cup (35 g) currants Spinach and eggs 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil 8 ounces (225 g) baby spinach Kosher salt 4 large eggs Malawach Vegetable oil, for frying 4 discs frozen malawach Make the meat topping: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and jalapeños and sauté until the onion is soft and translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the ground beef, parsley, cinnamon, paprika, turmeric, cumin, bay leaf, salt, and pepper and cook, crumbling the meat with a fork, until the meat is broken down and nicely browned, 8 to 9 minutes. Turn off the heat, discard the bay leaf, and stir in the pine nuts and currants. Cover the skillet to keep the filling warm.

Cook the spinach: Heat the oil in another large skillet over medium heat. Add the spinach, season with a pinch of salt, and sauté until the spinach just starts to wilt but is still bright green, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn off the heat and cover the skillet to keep the spinach warm. Poach the eggs: Line a large plate with paper towels. Fill a wide medium saucepan three-quarters full with water and bring it to a very low simmer—you should just barely see a bubble here and there. Any roiling bubbles mean the water is too hot, so reduce the heat and let it cool a bit if you see them. Crack one egg into a small bowl. Using a wooden spoon, give the simmering water a swirl to create a “tornado” (which will help corral the egg white so it doesn’t spread too much) and carefully slide the egg into the tornado. Cook, undisturbed, for 2 to 3 minutes, until the egg white has just firmed up but the yolk is still runny. Carefully remove the egg with a slotted spoon and transfer it to the paper towels to absorb excess water. Repeat to cook the remaining eggs, one at a time. Fry the malawach: Five minutes before you’re ready to cook the malawach discs, transfer them from the freezer to the fridge. Heat 1 teaspoon vegetable oil in a medium nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add one disc of malawach (keep the others in the fridge so they don’t become sticky and the wrapper becomes hard to peel) and fry until crispy and golden, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Transfer to a serving plate (if possible, heat the plate in advance to keep the malawach warm until serving). Repeat to cook the remaining malawach discs, adding a bit

more oil to the pan between batches, if needed, and setting each fried malawach on a separate serving plate. While the malawachs are frying, check on the meat and spinach—if they’ve cooled down, reheat them for a minute or two. To serve: Divide the spinach evenly among the malawach discs, leaving about 1 inch (2.5 cm) exposed around the edges, top with the meat and a poached egg, and serve at once. Variations If you can’t find malawach, use puff pastry instead: Remove it from the freezer and let sit for 10 to 15 minutes at room temperature, just until it thaws a bit so you can spread out the sheet. Roll out the pastry to make it a bit thinner and cut out four 7-inch (17.5 cm) discs. Poke each disc with a fork in several places (this will prevent the pastry from puffing up too much). Heat the oil and fry one disc of dough for 3 minutes on each side, or until golden. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the rest of the discs, adding a bit more oil between batches, if needed. You can use fried eggs— sunny-side up—instead of poached, if you like. Fry each one individually and make sure it’s not overcooked—the yolk should be runny, and the white should be cooked but not rubbery. Or top the dish with softboiled eggs: Fill a bowl with ice and water. Fill a mediumsmall pot about three-quarters full with water and bring it to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat to medium and carefully slide in the eggs. Cook for 8 minutes exactly (use a timer). Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and immediately transfer them to the ice bath to stop the cooking. Let the eggs cool completely before peeling.

(from Last Bite page 82)

OPEN FACED FRIED GREEN TOMATO BLT Serves: 6 2 cups flour 1 cup cornstarch 2 eggs 2 cups yellow cornmeal 3 green tomatoes, sliced 6 slices sourdough bread, toasted 1½ cups basil mayo (recipe follows) 2 (4-ounce) packages beef fry, cooked Slice the tomatoes about 3/4-inch thick. If they are extra wet and seedy, remove some of the excess seeds. Season with salt and let sit for 2-3 minutes. Pat dry. Prepare a dredging station. Combine the flour and cornstarch together and season with salt and pepper. Dredge the tomatoes in the flour mixture, followed by the egg and then the cornmeal. Shallow fry in avocado or grapeseed oil. Transfer to a cooling rack and season the fried tomatoes with salt. Spread a generous amount of basil mayonnaise on the bread, then add the lettuce and another dollop of mayo as “glue.” Top with 2-3 slices of beef fry and fried green tomatoes. Garnish with basil chiffonade. Basil mayonnaise (to add another gardening aspect)- 1 cup mayo, ½ cup fresh basil leaves, 2 cloves fresh garlic, juice from 1 lemon, salt and pepper. Blend to combine. Thin with water to desired consistency. (from L'Chaim page 74)

GIMLET RECIPE Serves: 1 2 ounces gin ¾ ounce fresh lime juice ¾ ounce simple syrup Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker and shake with ice. Strain into a chilled coupe glass or other wide-mouth stem glass. Garnish with a lime wheel. SEPTEMBER 2019

Fleishigs

LAST BITE

Open Faced Fried Green Tomato BLT

BY ELISHEVA TAITZ There’s just nothing like the smell, taste and experience of homegrown produce. Back in the summer of 2015 my neighbor at the time knocked on the door with a basketful of green tomatoes that had fallen from the vine at the end of the season and asked me if I had any use for them. Well, it inspired me to make this sandwich. Ever since then, I’ve had green tomatoes at my fingertips in my backyard garden. You can either pick 82

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AUGUST 2019

tomatoes in their unripe stage, grow a specific variety of green tomatoes or purchase them at the store (they aren’t so easy to find at a conventional grocery store, but farmers markets almost always have a green tomato option, either standard or heirloom). Recipe page 81. w w w.f leishigs.com