T H E L E AT H E R R E TA I L E R S ’ & M A N U FACT U R E R S ’ J O U R N A L
BOOTS WITH ROOTS IN THE OLD WEST
Swamp Talk John Fallis ! new Tools ne icc,, IInncc.. a t Bu Prroolleepptti m P room ffr
MAY 2 0 1 6
S I NC E 1984
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BEHIND EVERY GREAT PROJECT THERE’S A GREAT MACHINE
Model 2600 cylinder walking foot
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THE LEATHER RETAILERS’ & MANUFACTURERS’ JOURNAL
MAY 2016
FEATURES 15 Books From Proleptic 19 Boots With Roots
19
25 Swamp Talk 28 John Fallis 33 Edge/Dye Chrome 35 Pro-Thermal Tools 36 Waterproofing Leather
36
Waterproofing Leather
IN EVERY ISSUE 4 Laugh Lines 7 Hide Report 12 Goods & Services 47 News, Notes & Queries 57 Classifieds COVER PHOTO: John Fallis and shop. Photo by Nick Pernokas.
2 MAY 2016
SHOP TALK!
28
40
John Fallis
Published by Proleptic, Inc. • P.O. Box 17817 • Asheville, NC 28816 Ph (828) 505-8474 • Fax (828) 505-8476 shoptalk@proleptic.net • www.proleptic.net Read Shop Talk! online with links to advertisers and online information. www.proleptic.net ShopTalkLeatherMagazine
Shop Talk! is published monthly (ISSN 1547-0121) by Proleptic, Inc. Subscription rates are $36 annually, $39 (US) for Canada and Mexico, and $54 (US) for all other countries.
Long 7 ¹/2" head allows you to work in narrow spaces and makes tacking up easier. Weighs approx. 8 oz. 11 ¹/2" hickory handle. Made in the USA!
Pro-Saddler
Custom Shops • Saddle Makers • Harness Makers Tired of bulky hammers that obscure your work and mash your fingers? No More! The Pro-Saddler is slim, elegant, and perfect for professional leatherworkers.
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Proleptic, Inc.
PO Box 17817 • Asheville, NC 28816 | Ph. 828.505.8474 • Fx. 828.505.8476 • shoptalk@proleptic.net
www.proleptic.net
THE COMPLETE Pro-Thermal Hole Burner Tips Large: 1/4” Med: 7/32” Small: 3/16”
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Box 17817 • Asheville, NC 28816 • Ph: (828) 505-8474 • Fx:(828) 505-8476 Proleptic, Inc. POwww.proleptic.net • shoptalk@proleptic.net SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 3
________________ ± ___________________
LAUGH LINES Tickle Your
FUNNY BONE
President Vladimir Putin visited an elementary school and he visited one of the 4th grade classes. They were in the middle of a discussion related to words and their meanings. The teacher asked the President if he would like to lead the class in the discussion of the word “tragedy”. So the President asked the class for an example of a tragedy.
One little boy stood up and said, “If my best friend, who lives next door, is playing in the street and a car comes along and runs him over, that would be a tragedy.” “No,” says Putin, “that would be an accident.”
Four high school boys afflicted with spring fever skipped morning classes. After lunch they reported to the teacher that they had had a flat tire. Much to their relief she smiled and said, “Well, you missed a test today so take seats apart from one another and take out a piece of paper.” Still smiling, she waited for them to sit down. Then she said: “First question: Which tire was flat?”
PO
L ISH
A PL
NE CRASH
Poland’s worst air disaster occurred today when a small two-seater Cessna 152 plane crashed into a cemetery early this afternoon in central Poland. Polish search and rescue workers have recovered 326 bodies so far and expect that number to climb as digging continues into the evening. 4 MAY 2016
SHOP TALK!
A little girl raised her hand: “If a school bus carrying 50 children drove off a cliff, killing everyone involved, that would be a tragedy.” “I’m afraid not,” explained the President. “That’s what we call a GREAT LOSS.” The room went silent. No other children volunteered. President Putin searched the room and asked, “Isn’t there someone here who can give me an example of a tragedy?” Finally, way in the back of the room, a boy named Stefan raised his hand. In a quiet voice he said, “If the Russian presidential aircraft, carrying you and Mrs. Putin, was struck by a missile and blown up to smithereens that would be a tragedy.” “Correct,” explained Putin, “that’s right. And can you tell me WHY that would be a tragedy?” “Well,” Stefan offered, “because, like you told us, it wouldn’t be an accident, and it sure wouldn’t be a great loss.” ___________________ ± ____________________
T
he earthquake is now causing trouble for Japan’s bank industry. Origami Bank has folded.
Advice from a Country Farmer
Sumo Bank has gone belly up. Bonsai Bank has cut back some of its branches. Karaoke Bank has been put up for sale and is going for a song. Analysts report that there is something fishy going on at Sushi Bank and staff there fear they may get a raw deal. Meanwhile, shares in Kamikaze Bank have nose-dived and 500 jobs at Karate Bank will be chopped.
After the Revolution: The far right Tea Party extremists get it together and overthrow the government. Then they start rounding up politicians to execute. A firing squad is convened, and Al Gore, Bill Clinton, and George W. Bush are all marched to a wall to be shot. As the right wing nuts are loading their guns, Al Gore thinks, “I’ve got to cause a diversion so I can get away.” He yells, “Oh, no. A TORNADO!” and points behind the firing squad.
Remember this: what doesn't kill you just hurts real, real bad.
frantically looks for a place to take cover Clinton jumps over the wall and he too escapes. The firing squad resumes their stance and proceeds to take aim at George W. Bush. Dubya, believing that he, too, can create a diversion, frantically searches his mind for another natural disaster.
As the ultraconservative fruitcakes turn around to see if there is a tornado approaching, Gore jumps over the wall behind him and runs away. The firing squad turns their attention back to the two men who are left. Clinton quickly observes how well Gore’s ruse worked and yells “EARTHQUAKE!” As the firing squad
Smiling to himself, he yells “FIRE!” SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 5
Q: Four lawyers drive a minivan over a cliff. What is the tragedy?
A: The minivan could’ve held eight lawyers.
To tell the weather, go to your back door and look for the dog. If the dog is at the door and he is wet, it’s probably raining. But if the dog is standing there really soaking wet, it is probably raining really hard.
Q: What do cows produce during an earthquake?
A: Milkshakes!
Q: Did you hear about the earthquake in Haiti?
If the dog’s fur looks like it’s been rubbed the wrong way, it’s probably windy.
If the dog has snow on his back, it’s probably snowing. Of course, to be able to tell the weather like it is, you have to leave the dog outside all the time, especially if you expect bad weather. Sincerely, The Cat
A: It caused $100 million worth of improvements!
Art of the Boot
by Tyler Beard, photographs by Jim Arndt: soft cover, 160 pp. Elegant presentation throughout. Intense focus on the boot makers’ craft. Lots of great background notes on the different boot makers included. $24.95 +S/H
Cowboy Boots
by Tyler Beard with photos by Jim Arndt: paperback, 320 pp. By the same duo that did the original Cowboy Boot Book and then Art of the Boot. This effort is every bit as good. A must for boot collectors & boot lovers. Note: This book measures 6” x 6”. 500 color photos. $15.95 +S/H
Proleptic, Inc. • PO Box 17817 • Asheville, NC • 28816
(828) 505-8474 • shoptalk@proleptic.net • www.proleptic.net 6 MAY 2016
SHOP TALK!
YOUR GLO BAL P E RSP ECT IVE
The Hide Report
Government Report on U.S. Cattle Imports A recent analysis by the Daily Livestock Report noted that the lack of expansion in Canada and Mexico is important since the number of their cattle in the U.S. slaughter mix is not insignificant. Imports of Canadian cattle were 830,479 head in 2015. Total U.S. cattle slaughter in 2015 was 28 million head, indicating that Canadian and Mexican cattle accounted for around 7% of the number of cattle going into U. S. slaughter plants. The January 1 cattle inventory in Canada was reported by Statistics Canada at 11.96 million head, just 40,000 head or .3% higher than a year ago. The broader context is that North American inventories continue to be quite a bit lower than 10 to 15 years ago, according to the Daily Livestock Report. Canada and Mexico so far have not participated in heard rebuilding which is different from what is happening in South America where Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay are all quickly rebuilding their herds. The combined North American cattle inventory on January 1 was estimated at 120.4 million head, 2.2 million head or 1.9% higher than a year ago. But this was still 13.8 million head or 10.3% lower than it was in 2005.
HIDE PRICES HIGHER Since last month at this time, hide prices for most all selections have risen $1-$2.
FEDERALLY INSPECTED SLAUGHTER Federally inspected slaughter for the week ending Saturday, April 2, was estimated to be 542,000 which compares to the 540,000 of the week before. 525,000 were killed for the same period last year, and for year to date, slaughter is 7,179,000 which is .3% below last year’s 7,159,000 or difference of 20,000 head.
PATENT LEATHER IN VOGUE FOR FALL 2016 According to Vogue magazine, patent leather will be everywhere this coming fall and the shinier the better. Patent (and its vegan cousin, PVC) will be one of fall’s biggest trends, turning up at Louis Vuitton, Anthony Vaccarello, and even Chanel, where pearls are being juxtaposed with crinkly leather skirts. But Vogue got its first glimpse of the trend on the streets, where men and women are already embracing slick and shiny trench coats, dresses, and platform boots. Hesitant to channel the subversive looking material in your real life? Vogue says the lustrous finish is deceptively easy to wear.
SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 7
The Hide Report
Mexico’s Largest Beef Company Expands SuKarne, 1.154 million head. At the same time, Mexico’s Mexico’s total cattle inventory declined 670 head to largest beef 16.45 million head on January 1 this year, SuKarne company, according to USDA estimates. opened a new is North Prof. Derrell Peel of Oklahoma state of the art beef State University season trade-off America’s fifth processing plant in between an increase in Mexican beef largest meat the state of Durango. production and feeder cattle The $610 million plant processing exports. U.S. is by far the largest beef feeder cattle company. plant in Mexico. SuKarne expects prices have the plant to process 600,000 fed always been cattle and 200,000 cows per year. A higher than special feature is that feedlots surround Mexican prices, the plant. The feedlots, which include one especially with the owned by SuKarne, have space for 250,000 weak peso. This might head. SuKarne is North America’s fifth largest change a little this year, with Mexican prices meat processing company, with 2014 sales closer to U.S. prices. Mexican producers also of $2.5 billion which made it the 25th largest need to retain more females since the exported protein company in the world. It also handles a large number of heifers in 2012 due to severe chicken and pork. drought and have exported fewer since then. The AgroPark facility in the city of Tlahualilo, spans 1,170 acres and will produce an estimated 45,000 metric tons of meat and fat annually, reports say. The plant is slated to generate 5,920 new jobs in the region. SuKarne, owned by Grupo Viz, has four other processing plants in Mexico. 60% of the new plant’s production will be slated for exports. SuKarne already exports 73% of all of Mexico’s beef exports. Overall, Mexican beef production has increased from 1.800 and 4 billion metric tons in 2011 to 1.850 billion metric tons in 2015. Production is expected to increase slightly again in 2016. The feedlots around SuKarne’s plant have been feeding cattle for some time which has kept more feeder cattle in Mexico. The plant’s expected fed cattle kill is likely to keep even more cattle at home and reduce exports to the U.S. Imports of Mexican cattle in 2015 were 8 MAY 2016
SHOP TALK!
So some heard rebuilding will occur this year according to Prof. Peel. SuKarne’s new plant and more herd retention in Mexico mean, as noted, fewer cattle coming north. Also important to note is that both Canadian and Mexican cattle numbers remain flat, with the only North American expansion coming in the U.S. In contrast, South America continues to expand its heard, and this has applications for global beef prices.
Editor’s Note: So what does this tell us about the state of the Mexican economy? Fewer cattle exported can only mean greater demand at home which would suggest an improvement in the average Mexican’s standard of living.
The Hide Report HANDBAG DESIGNER JOANNA MAXHAM SEES 300% GROWTH The handbag designer Joanna Maxham— whose namesake brand has grown nearly 300% in the past two years— appears to have successfully charted a trajectory from the corporate world to the creative one. The Connecticut-based designer’s collection of streamlined leather bags is presently sold in over 50 stores in the U.S., with additional distribution in Asia and Europe. When her husband was assigned a job posting in various countries in Europe, eventually including Maxham’s native Poland, she used her family’s relocation as an opportunity to train under an Italian leather goods manufacturer. It was then that she “noticed a space in the market for handbags that were more minimalist and really good quality, but at a price that is still affordable.” “I realize that anything I liked was in the range of $2,000 to $3,000, and what my friends could afford in terms of the quality and styling was not what I was comfortable with.” She launched an initial run of handbags in 2011, but in 2014 rent up the business with outside investment from a private investor and a sales director. Retailers now include Anthropologie’s website, United Arrows and Takashimaya. Bags are priced from $265 to $850. The line is manufactured in Maxham’s native Poland, fabricated from leather sourced in Italy, France, and Spain. Accent hardware is sourced in Italy, Spain, France, and Japan.
Beiler’s Mfg. & Supply Manufacturing address 290 S. Groffdale Rd. Leola, PA 17540 (717) 656-2179
Main Office & WarehOuse 3025 Harvest Dr. Ronks, PA 17540 (717) 768-0174
Manufacturers of Leather, Nylon or Biothane Products like Halters, Harnesses or other Equine or Pet Related items. Distributors of Harness & Saddlery Hardware. Leather, Leather Oils, Biothane & Nylon Webbing plus other Equine Products.
ecleather@ecleather.net
Call us for any custom made Harness or Saddlery Hardware item you may need.
SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 9
The Hide Report
Chinese Factories Face Rising Labor Costs, Eye India for Relocation As labor costs in China rise and the country’s economy slows, Hong Kong-based companies with labor-intensive factories in mainland China are losing their competitive edge— and many are looking to move their production bases to India. India’s comparatively low taxes as part of free trade agreements within and beyond the region also lend the country and advantageous air, as do its labor costs, which are lower than in mainland China. In India, workers earn, on average, in the $90 to $100 range each month, though the minimum wage is supposed to be closer to Rs. 15,000 ($224) a month. At least 14 provinces raise their minimum wage in China last year, with monthly wage rates ranging from 1,270 yuan ($195) in the Hainan province to 2,030 yuan ($312) in Shenzen. India’s labor productivity has been on an upward trajectory, recording a 3.8% growth rate in 2014, the Hong Kong Trade Development Council noted. Fat coupled with its many major seaports has positioned India as a more viable production base than its South Asian neighbors. “With the world’s second largest population, India’s retail landscape is evolving rapidly and is currently estimated at $600 billion with an average annual growth of 12%,” according to the Hong Kong Trade Development Council. “With the surge of middle class consumption, the retail sector is projected to keep expanding.”
10 MAY 2016
SHOP TALK!
INNOVATIVE LEATHER FINISHES There was quite a long article in a recent report we received from Hidenet.com which covered innovations in leather finishes being introduced by very high-end furniture design studios. Given its length and esoteric nature, we have not included it in this issue; however, we did want to mention some of the unique innovations that are taking place and which might be of interest to makers of custom boots, belts, bags, cases, and the like. The article consisted largely of interviews with furniture designers at the Design Miami show— the next one is scheduled for June 14-19. Details available at www.designmiami.com. Visit the web site to get an idea of the changes that are taking place. Designers are experimenting with printing on leather, engraving, using layered leather, hand painting, 3-D embossing, embroidering with thread and fabric, weaving, tattooing, and using laser to create designs. The leather is being used in the making of very expensive furniture as well as for wall coverings.
The Hide Report
MAY 2016 MARKET IN REVIEW Selection
Weight (lbs.) wts. vary month to month
February (early)
March (early)
April (early)
Price Last Apr. 2015 (early)
Heavy Texas Steers
62-64 $66-62 $63-65 $65-66 $95-96
Heavy Texas Steers (Hvy)
70-74 $64-66 $66-67 $69-71 $103-104
Branded Steers
62-64 $58-59 $62-63 $63-64 $93-96
Branded Steers (Hvy)
70-74 $62-63 $62-63 $68-70 $102-103
Colorado Steers
62-64 $52-52 $52-54 $61-62 $92-94
Butt Branded Steers
62-64 $70-71 $69-70 $73-74 $102-105
Butt Branded Steers (Hvy) 70-74 $75-76 $75-76 $77-79 $106-110 Heavy Native Steers (Hvy)
70-74
Heavy Native Heifers
50-52 $54-55 $54-55 $59-60 $85-87
Branded Heifers
50-52 $51-53 $51-55 $56-57 $82-83
Heavy Native Cows
50-52 $44-45 $44-45 $42-43 $70-72
Branded Cows
50-52 $32.50-36 $34-36 $34-37 $64-67
Spready Dairy Cows
50-52 $57-59 $55-57 $54-58 $80-82
Native Bulls
$77-78
$77-78
$80-82
$108-110
100-110 $49-51 $49-51 $51-54 $78-81
SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 11
Goods & Services M AY 2 0 1 6
If you’re getting leather from The Hide House you know it’s got to be great! Those folks have way over a MILLION square feet in stock. About any weight or color you can imagine. There are tanneries around the world that make leathers to their unique specs PLUS those gals and guys at The Hide House sure enough know what they’re talking about. Very knowledgeable, very friendly, and very helpful. If you want one hide—they’ll sell you one hide. You want 100 pallets of particular color or finish, they can provide that as well. Whether you’re a custom chap maker or a large manufacturer, they have the leather you want. So when they sent us a list of new leathers they’ve started to carry, that’s pretty exciting and we wanted to pass along the information to you—enjoy.
Allure. German whole hides 50-60 sq. ft. 2.5/3 oz. 104 colors. Semi-aniline. Great for upholstery—auto, furniture, marine, aircraft. Also apparel and personal leather goods.
Granada. German whole hides 50-60 sq. ft. 3.5/4 oz. 24 colors. For handbags, chaps, footwear, personal leather goods. Pronounced pebble grain.
Grizzly. 24-28 sq. ft. 5/5.5 oz. Good for chaps, briefcases, bags, and footwear. Pull-up.
12 MAY 2016
SHOP TALK!
Napa Excel. 22-25 sq. ft. 5/6 oz. Smooth grain and hot stuffed. Pull-up. Personal leather goods and footwear. For pricing, please contact: 595 Monroe St., Napa, CA 94559, (800) 453-2847, www.hidehouse.com.
Wyoming Leatherworks makes some very handsome chinks and chaps which are available wholesale, so—if you don’t have the time, then why not job the work out to Wyoming? They make all those great looking chaps and chinks shown in the Berlin Leather catalog. Contact: Henry Lambright at 201 Horseshoe Ln., Hulett, WY 82720, (307) 467-5651 ext. 2.
Goods & Services Well, we’ve finally done it! Our new line of butane powered Pro-Thermal Tools is ready! We have butane heated tools that you can use for leather tooling, wood burning, thread burning, hole burning, creasing, edging, and cutting synthetic materials. We’re marketing them to leather workers, wood workers, as well as folks like hikers, sailors, ranchers, and campers who might need a portable tool to use on synthetic materials. The tools are portable and refillable. They come filled but the butane is sold separately and is available at most stores that sell sporting goods and camping equipment. We also have four new attachments for our ProThermal 80 w Handle—a creaser, an edging/ burnishing tool, and two hot knives. There’s an article on the new tools later in this issue along with several advertisements showing the tools. To order one of our new tools, please contact: Proleptic, Inc., P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net.
Lasting Quality and Style Matte Finishes Many Colors
The Boise Foundry has been casting products for over 65 years and offers a bigger variety of items than you might think—everything from coat racks and boot jacks to hammers. They have a 30 pp. catalog and all their products are listed online as well at www.boisefoundry.com. Of course, they make a lot of different saddle horns in different materials. They make custom horns as well. They make a lot of odd horns you don’t see anywhere else—horns for the McClellan saddle, trick horns, slotted horn, sidesaddle horn, dally horn. They also have rigging hardware for saddles, hangers, odd buckles, hardware and bars for Decker pack saddles. They also make pistol forms for a variety of handguns. They make metal piggy banks, bells, hitching post heads, a variety of rigging dees, and many styles and sizes of stirrups. Boise even has a French shoe hammer made out of brass. So for all the details, please contact: The Boise Foundry, P O Box 34, Melba, ID 83641, (208) 495-1220, www.boisefoundry.com, e-mail: boisefoundry@ prodigy.net.
Easy Cleaning Easy Sewing Durable, Flexible
BETTER PRODUCTS & BETTER PRICES
P.O. Box 593, Columbia Station, OH 44028 Voice: 800-357-5070 Fax 440-243-5326 Email daves@firstlocal.net Website www.ohiothane.com
SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 13
Goods & Services Did you know that Angelus Leathercare makes products for a lot more industries than just shoe repair shops? They do and the variety of their products is quite impressive. No matter what sort of leather work you do—from fancy carving to holster making—they have something for you. And they have it in about any quantity you need it—from 4 oz. bottles to 55 gal. drums.
Restores Natural Gloss
Angelus has: leather balm, spray saddle soap, tub saddle soap, mink oil, neatsfoot oil, markers which you can fill with dye to do edging and detailed dye work. They make a number of acrylic finishes (from high gloss to matte), leather dye in many colors, leather cleaners, and deglazers. For people doing craft items, Angelus makes acrylic paint in a lot of very bright colors and even a selection of neon colors. They have a selection of 19 glitter finishes which can be painted on. Great for customizing shoes and athletic footwear. Or bags and bracelets! Of course, they carry all the stuff shoe and boot repair shops use and stock including a polish especially for military footwear! They have water proofers and cleaners for footwear plus lots, lots more. So whether you have a custom shop, a retail store needing a source for leather conditioners and the like, a shoe repair shop, or a large manufacturing facility, Angelus just might have what you need in the quantity that you need it— custom formulations as well as private labeling are also available. Angelus has a nice catalog and their products can be found online. Contact: 12060 Florence Ave., Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670, (562) 941-4242, www. angelusshoepolish.com. 14 MAY 2016
SHOP TALK!
Interesting Books From Proleptic, Inc. THE PACKER’S BIBLE
A few months ago someone called up looking for a book that he was calling, “The Packer’s Bible”. And we scratched our head because we didn’t have a book by that name on hand. So we asked the gentlemen could he kind of explain what the book was about and he did—it was about training pack animals and using pack equipment. Best little book of its kind ever written! Then the light went on! That had to be the best book on packing and gear ever written—Horses, Hitches, and Rocky Trails by Joe Back who not only was an experienced guide and packer but also a trained illustrator who did all the wonderful drawings in the book himself. Unfortunately, we had to tell our customer that we were out of stock and didn’t know when or if we’d ever get the book back in. So Jerilyn Martin, the GM here, made it her mission to find a source for the book or try and buy the rights so we could reprint it ourselves since she recognized what a true classic the book is.
The first thing that Jerilyn did was get on the horn and ask our supplier if they ever intended to have the book back in stock, and they said they did—great! It would be 30 days. Then it was 60
days. Then it was 90 days. So Jerilyn kept rooting around and calling folks and poking and prying and still couldn’t find anyone with books to sell.
Never being one to call it quits and head for the house, Jerilyn called our supplier back to see if we could get permission to print 200 copies of the books ourselves or just buy the rights. So the person she spoke with this time told her he’d check around, he’d talk to his boss, maybe even check the warehouse because his computer TOLD him that he actually had a pallet of the in stock!
So after a year of back and forth and back and forth and back and forth, the company actually had some of Back’s book in stock, and we bought 200 copies of them. Granted, it’ll take years to sell 200 copies of them but it’s a great book that we want to keep in stock for our customers. SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 15
What makes Horses, Hitches and Rocky Trails so great is that it’s practical—there’s no theory here just real good advice from an experienced packer who’s pretty much done it all and seen it all and knows from firsthand experience (and lots of mistakes) exactly what he’s talking about.
Partner, it’s all here: what pack saddles and panniers use, all the hitches you need to know about, all the equipment you need for a successful packing trip, how to pack equipment (and meat) in and out, how to hobble, and what to do when nothing works!
In addition to offering a world of great advice in just a few pages, Back’s dry humor makes Horses, Hitches and Rocky Trails a heap of fun to read. Our one and only complaint is that the folks who reprinted the book reduced the size of the font so the print is a little smaller than most folks would like—sorry. It’s only 117 pages and cost is $12.95 + SH. Get ‘em while we got ‘em! Proleptic, Inc., P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net.
When we first came out with Making Harness: A Step-By-Step Guide, we printed 500 copies and it took a couple years to sell those then we printed another 500 and now we are down to under 150 copies on hand. Given the cost of getting another 500 printed and the time it takes to sell them, we’ve decided not to reprint at this time. We’ll be selling the ones we do have on hand for $194 each until they’re gone. Sorry—none are available wholesale. So don’t miss out. Making Harness is a mighty fine book and will actually teach you how to make a variety of single and team harness in six different sizes. It’s very detailed and cuts out all the guess work. The book is 480 pp. and contains over 900 photos, patterns, and illustrations so it’s the real deal! To order a copy of your own, please contact: Proleptic, Inc., P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 540-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net. Thanks to everyone who bought a copy—we really appreciate your support and hope you’ve found the book as useful as advertised.
$1295 Proleptic, Inc. • PO Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816 (828) 505-8474 • www.proleptic.net • shoptalk@proleptic.net
16 MAY 2016
SHOP TALK!
We got in a book recently to look over and decide whether or not we wanted to carry it. To be honest, my first impression that it was a very pretty book but with little or no substance, promised a lot but didn’t deliver. And I have to say, after really taking a good look at it, I was wrong, wrong, wrong. To be honest, Leather Care Compendium is quite a good resource which consumers and professionals alike would benefit from having around. But first let’s get this out of the way—the book was originally written for a German audience so the products which are reviewed are ones that you will most likely not be familiar with. But, by the same token, there are new things to learn which you might enjoy. The really nice thing about the book is that its discussion of products and their application is very “product specific”. By that I mean they don’t just talk about cleaning and conditioning products, for example, but what specific cleaning and conditioning products work best for a specific product such as automotive leather, furniture, saddlery, or shoes. So its approach to leather care is a bit different than what we may have here in the US.
SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 17
Leather Care Compendium offers in-depth discussions of different polishes, conditioners, water proofers, dyes, and cleaners. Ingredients are analyzed and even detailed recipes are given. There’s in-depth coverage of automotive leather, leather furniture, riding equipment, leather clothing, bags and luggage, boots, motorcycle gear, and lots and lots of information on the care of shoes including exotic leathers, suede, patent, and more.
There’s also a good bit of miscellaneous historical information, product information, and information about different manufacturing processes as well as information about the tanning and finishing of leather which adds to the depth and interest of the book. The book is softcover, 286 pp. and costs $35 + SH. Please contact: Proleptic, Inc., P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net.
18 MAY 2016
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BOOTS WITH ROOTS IN THE OLD WEST
Rios, Olathe, and Anderson Bean Cowboy boots are walking tall in Mercedes, Texas
by LYNN ASCRIZZI, STAFF WRITER All photos supplied by Western Leather Goods.
Whether you’re riding the lone prairie, roping calves, running a ranch, or are simply one of growing number of enthusiasts for all things Western and looking for a great pair of cowboy boots, then Texas is a pretty darn good place to start. It’s a known fact that there’s more cowboy boot makers and boot wearers in Texas than in any other state in the Union.
Each business creates its own line of custom made and stock cowboy boots—quality products sold in hundreds of retail stores worldwide. The majority of U.S. retail stores are clustered in Kansas, Oklahoma, Missouri, and Arkansas. International sales in Japan, Canada, Belgium, Australia, Germany, and Italy make up about 5% of their sales. Rios, Olathe, and Anderson Bean are strictly wholesalers and do not sell directly to individuals. “We sell to retailers,” said Steven Kahla, marketing and corporate sponsorship director for the three companies. “We assist retailers at special events. Stock boots are our primary product. Custom boots are designed through our retailers and through trunk shows at retailers.”
Steven Kahla
Altogether, approximately 140 employees work for the three companies, making them among the largest employers in Mercedes (pop. 16,352). Of those workers, about 120 are skilled craftspeople involved in the hands on boot making process. Rios of Mercedes of Mercedes, TX, was founded in 1853, and is the oldest cowboy boot company in the United States.
So, while you’re perusing a map of the Lone Star State, put a big circle around the border town of Mercedes where cowboy boots have been made for more than 100 years. Located in the Rio Grande Valley at the southernmost tip of the state, the municipality is home to three closely knit boot manufacturers with authentic roots in the Old West—Rios of Mercedes, Olathe Boot Co., and Anderson Bean Boot Co.
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MAY 2016 19
The three businesses are located in a cluster of offices, warehouses, and large boot making workshops, all of which operate under the corporate aegis of Western Leather Goods, a “We have business that is seen a drastic family-owned run by Trainor Evans, CEO, Pat increase in Moody, president, and Ryan our American Vaughn, general manager.
products Business is strong, and the company will be adding in all three more space to accommodate companies, distribution and boot making consistently, operations. “We have seen every month a drastic increase in our products in all three for the past six American companies, consistently, years. People every month for the past six years. People want to buy a want to buy a quality product,” Kahla quality product.” said. — Steven Kahla, marketing director, Rios of Mercedes, Olathe, and Anderson Bean boot companies
20 MAY 2016
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Producing top notch, handcrafted cowboy boots in Texas is a big part of their legacy and brand image. Taken together, the three sister companies are one of the larger, made-in-USA cowboy boot manufacturers in the country. This means that a lot of leather and related materials are being shipped regularly to Mercedes. Their most popular leather is, of course, classic cowhide—a calf skin. Some of the more popular exotic leathers used are from elephant, Nile crocodile, and Arapaima, one of largest predatory fish found in South American—about 6 ½ ft. long. “We’re the first ones in the U.S. to use it,” Kahla explained. “It’s a very supple and comfortable hide. It demands attention. All of our exotic hides are acquired through completely legal means. We are authorized to use all our hides.”
Boot makers at the three companies work with more than 300 kinds of skins, including hornback caiman, tejus lizard, kangaroo, and shark. Ostrich skin remains an all-time favorite. Boot tops and vamps artfully marry strikingly different leathers and textures, with colors ranging from earthy, natural tones to dazzling, high color contrasts enhanced by floral and geometric patterns. Whenever possible, leather is purchased from American suppliers. “We use the same American tanneries for all three lines. We try to keep our raw materials based in the U.S.—our leather suppliers and heels and steel shanks manufacturers,” he said. Nonetheless, accessing sufficient supplies of U.S. tanned leather is an ongoing challenge. “We are having to go outside the U.S. more. Right now, we have the lowest [cattle] herd inventory in the United States that we’ve had since the late 1950s. We try to work with the tanneries. We get the best price possible for hides. We do run out of hides occasionally, and we have to wait. That’s part of the business. We don’t use synthetic materials or plastic fillers. We use leather.”
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When it comes to boots, function informs style. For instance, shafts may be built tall or short, and toes can come in rounded, squared or pointed shapes. Heels might be angled, as in the classic cowboy boot, or squared off as in roper style boots. However, toe styles are not interchangeable between company brands. “There are specific toes for each boot. You can’t put a Rios boot toe on an Olathe boot,” he explained.
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MAY 2016 21
One interesting “footnote”: The three brands construct their boots using lemon wood pegs. “Only a handful of boot companies use this technique,” Kahla noted. According to online, company information: “Lemon wood pegs secure the spring steel shank in place in the arch of the foot for support. The pegs expand and contract with the leather as it changes temperature and moisture content, keeping them from falling out or rusting, like a nail.”
own inventory. They know their customer. Why not let them build a boot their customer will buy? I think we’re one of the few cowboy boot makers doing that.” Although they’re a quintessential symbol of the American West, the modern cowboy boot is also coveted by the fashion conscious. Kahla, however, did not want trendy terms to trivialize their wellmade, iconic footwear. “Our boots are not a fashion statement. They just happen to look really cool. They’re working equipment. They have to be. That hasn’t changed since 1853,” he said.
When it comes to actual boot designs, the three companies take an unique approach. “We don’t have a design team. You are going to build the boots that you want. We are our designers. I designs some boots, Trainor Evans, Pat Moody, and Ryan Vaughn design some. Jody Vaughn, who is Trainor’s daughter, and Ryan’s wife, helped design boots for the Macie Bean women’s line.” Most boots are designed by the customers themselves, he added. “We allow retailers to build
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Yet, their boots are certainly status symbols. “We try to “We’ve made boots for work with the presidents, senators, governors, Roy Rogtanneries. We get ers, Johnny Cash—a the best price lot of these people possible for wear Rios and Olathe hides. We do boots,” Kahla said. Recently, among the cow- run out of hides boy boot loving celebs occasionally, was FOX business news and we have personality Lauren Simonetti. This past fall “she to wait. That’s tried on and purchased part of the a Rios,” said Kahla. “Rios business. also makes a women’s boot,” he notWe don’t use ed, but pointed synthetic materials o u t
or plastic fillers. We use leather.”
—Steven Kahla, Marketing
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that their boots are not necessarily gender specific. “Once you get past the mentality of men’s or women’s boots—it’s a boot—and if it fits, you buy it.” The three historically related boot companies are not in direct competition. “They create three distinct lines of handcrafted boots that appeal to a distinct retail store and its customer,” according to Kahla.
RIOS Founded in 1853, Rios of Mercedes is the oldest cowboy boot company in the United States. “It's a made-in-USA, handmade boot, from start to finish—our premium line,” Kahla explained. By the term, handmade [versus hand crafted] he means that building a Rios boot involves a “maestro” level of hands-on skill and art. Hallmarks of the Rios boot are its high quality leather stitching and painstaking construction details.
retailer to design boots,” he said. Several hundred retailers carry Rios. And the brand sells internationally as well. Some premier retailers are Pinto Ranch of Houston, Dallas, and Las Vegas, Teskey’s Saddle Shop of Weatherford, TX, and Davis Western Trading, a mobile retailer. “They travel to all performance horse events to represent three companies,” Kahla said. Annual sales volume for Rios is estimated at $5 million, according to the Web site, chamberofcommerce. com.
d Boots With Roots cont. on p. 39
“Rios boots are built for professional horsemen or horse enthusiasts, heads of state, tycoons of industry, and working cowboys who save up for three or four months to buy one. You get what you pay for,” he said. A pair of Rios boots will start at around $500 and could go as high as $4,000. “It all depends upon what the retailer wants to design. We allow the
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Proleptic, Inc. PO Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816 828-505-8474 • shoptalk@proleptic.net www.proleptic.net • The Leader In Innovation • SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 23
24 MAY 2016
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Swamp Talk Reptile Skin Producer Speaks Out “From the swamp to the showroom”—that’s the tagline for the Mark Staton Co., a company that farms and sells alligator and crocodile skins.
A Need for Feed by LIISA ANDREASSEN
Mark Staton, the company’s founder, says his involvement with the development of alligator farming stems from his doctoral research at the University of Georgia in the 1980s. At that time, the farming of alligators and crocodiles was in its infancy, and one of the limiting factors in the growth of the industry was the availability of a reliable, cost-effective source of feed. Combining two aspects of his background—a background in wildlife science, specializing in alligators, crocodile and caiman, and real life work experience in poultry feed manufacturing—he researched the nutritional needs of alligators and ways to address them with manufactured feeds. This research soon led to the manufactured feeds for alligators and helped accelerate the expansion
of the number of alligator farms and increase production of farm raised alligator skin and meat.
A Little Production History “The 1980s and 1990s were a time of expansion of the farming of alligators, crocodile, and caiman,” Staton says. “In 1977, there were only three licensed farms in Louisiana. By 1982, there were eight; by 1987, there were thirty, and by 1992, there were 125 with a production of around 125,000 skins/year,” he noted. Over the next twenty years, the trend was for consolidation and for fewer farms with increased production through better management and husbandry; today there are around sixty farms in Louisiana, producing approximately 300,000 skins/ year. Staton explains that this increase came at a time when the wild alligator population in Louisiana was also growing—even while being harvested each year. Both the farming program and the wild hunt were regulated by the Louisiana Department of Wildlife and Fisheries.
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MAY 2016 25
Farming interests in other states and countries, working in conjunction with their wildlife management authorities, and under farming conditions specific to their own geography and climates, followed Louisiana's lead in improving farming techniques. Worldwide, farm production of alligators, crocodile, and caiman has increased dramatically. In in few countries in southern Africa, there are at least seventy farms producing about 600,000 Nile crocodile skins annually. Thailand reportedly has twenty-two large farms and about 1,000 small family farms producing approximately 700,000 crocodiles annually. Combined, Papua New Guinea and Australia produce approximately 150,000 skins on fifteen farms, mostly of the very valuable saltwater crocodile skin. Caiman production in several South American countries is said to be several million.
A Growing Industry In 1992, Staton took his family to Lae, Papua New Guinea, where he first worked as the technical manager and later the general manager of what was then the world’s largest commercial crocodile
farm. As a result of that work, he was involved in trading with tanneries around the world and this led to a familiarity with the tanned and finished skins. After returning to Louisiana in 1992, he became active in selling tanned skins, both crocodile and alligator. Since then, his small business has slowly grown to ten employees.
“We buy farmed and wild produced skins, and, after tanning, sell them as whole skins, components for manufacturers, or in some cases, finished products,” he says. Staton shares that, over the years, he has seen dramatic changes in the industry. “While there have been ‘boom or bust’ episodes, overall the growth has been relatively steady in the industry,” he says. “The increase in availability of the skins has led to a willingness of designers and manufacturers to include the exotic leathers produced from alligators and crocodiles in their offerings. This has been accompanied by the involvement of the major reptile tanneries, which have developed many new colors and finishes
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specific to some of the major fashion houses. For example, whereas we once sold skins primarily in black, chocolate, and cognac, we now offer about thirty colors and many others are in circulation.” nce upon time,universal a perfect man and“glazed” a perfect finish Also, while the aonce classic woman met. After a perfect courtship, they a is still very popular, it has been replaced in had many perfect wedding. Their life was, of course, perfect. manufacturing and design applications by matte,
“During this period of increased production, prices have steadily risen (along with prices in the general economy),” Staton says. “This has led to an increased use of caiman skins in the marketplace because they are significantly cost, yetdeteriorated have a similar Unfortunately, thelower divinginconditions and appearance. However, due to many bonesOnly in the the perfect couple and Santa had an accident. one leather, is considered to be of lower quality of them it survived. and durability. Despite this, products made Who was the survivor? from caiman leather are sometimes confused The perfect womanfrom survived. She’s or thecrocodile only one who with those made alligator skin really existed in the fi rst place. Everyone knows that leather by consumers who may think they are there is “a nodeal”. Santa Claus, and there is no such thing as a getting perfect man. Mark Staton Co. products are designed So, retailers, if there’s nomanufacturers, perfect man and designers, no Santa Claus, the for perfect woman must have been driving. and consumers. Prices vary with theThis explains why there was an accident. market.
A Christmas Riddle
O
One snowy, garment, storm Christmas Eve, this perfectand couple millennium, pearlized, metallic, other was driving their perfect car along a winding road when “boutique” finishes. they noticed someone at the side of the road in distress. Over the last twenty years or so, there has also been Being the perfect couple, they stopped to help. a trend toward “vertical integration” as seen in many There stoodindustries. Santa Claus with a huge bundle of toys. agricultural Not wanting to disappoint any children on the eve of Christmas,several the perfect major couple loaded Santa and his toys “Today, fashion houses into their SUV. Soon they were driving along, delivering operate their own farms and tanneries toys all over the world.
to supply their design, manufacturing, Contact andAmarketing businesses,” Staton says. information: very merry Christmas and a prosperous (and healthy!) 2015 from all www.markstatonco.com He adds of thatus the U.S. at is and always has to been a and Shop Talk! each everyone of you out there! here info@markstatonco.com small market for these skins. Buyers in Europe and Merry Christmas Happy New Year!! Japan have traditionally been the major markets& 337-988-9964 111 Bourque Rd. for the skins of alligators and crocodiles, but, in the last decade, China and Russia have also become Lafayette, LA 70506 significant export markets.
8 |
December 2014
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Shop Talk! MAY 2016 27
John Fallis: Keeping the Ride
Balanced You may not think of western Idaho as cowboy country, but, as you drive out to saddle by NICK PERNOKAS, maker John Fallis's shop, you STAFF WRITER see mountains of hops for Photos courtesy Nick Pernokas making beer. Trucks full of onions and potatoes run up and down the nearby highway. The smell of potatoes being processed for french fries hung in the fall air when I visited. I drove out to rural Idaho to find out about a saddle that was partially developed by a man who changed the face of Western horsemanship in the midtwentieth century, Monte Foreman. Monte helped other horseman see things that they couldn't see before, and the saddle that he rode was built by the Fallis family. John Fallis runs a small, clean shop. By the end of the 90’s he'd downsized from four employees to one. By 2013, when I stopped in to visit, John was doing most of the work himself, under the supervision of a cocker spaniel named Callie.
Over the years John has come up the right die for most everything he makes.
28 MAY 2016
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John, 59, actually began his saddle making career working for his father, Merlyn "Slim" Fallis. When John was nine, he began oiling his dad's saddles and putting the conchos on. As John got better, his dad would give him more jobs to do and quit working earlier. By the time he was thirteen, he was making the whole saddle. "I guess you could say I learned to make them from the back forwards," laughs John. "I've been making them ever since." Slim had also started building saddles at an early age in Denver. He made his first two out of carpet scraps when he was eight. Eventually, he worked for Old Western Saddlery in Denver. In 1949, Slim married his wife Johanna and moved to Montrose, CO, where he built saddles in his house. His goal was to come up with a comfortable, nontraditional saddle which paid off eventually. In 1951 they moved to Granby, CO. In addition to the saddle shop, Slim packed and was a guide. He loved horses and had up to twenty-three at one time. Around this time noted horseman Monte Foreman was looking for someone to build a unique saddle the way he wanted it. He heard about Slim Fallis and visited
him. Monte wanted to show Slim what he needed to be able to do with the saddle, so he asked Slim if he had a green horse on the place. Slim did, and Monte took him out to the arena and rode him. In a short time the unbroke colt was performing reining maneuvers. Slim was as impressed with Monte's abilities as Monte was with Slim’s. The men began a lifelong collaboration. "Dad had half an idea, and Monte had half an idea," says John. In 1954, Slim trade marked a new type of Western saddle under the name of "The Fallis Balanced Ride Saddle". They sold for $154.00. In 1957, the Fallis family and Monte Foreman all moved to Longmont, CO, to be nearer the highway, and the up and coming horse industry. The saddles, and horse training, went hand in hand. Johanna thought that Monte should do more than just train horses so she began to set up weekend horsemanship clinics with various saddle customers for him. They were a success, and Monte became famous for his clinics. Monte began to film horses doing maneuvers in 16 millimeter film so he could slow down lead changes and other movements. His horse training films influenced a generation of horseman. In 1962 the shop was moved to Elbert, CO.
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MAY 2016 29
In 1973 John graduated and began working full-time with Slim who passed away in 1982. Fallis Saddlery, Inc. was sold in 1984 and moved to Oregon where it closed a year and a half later. John opened a new shop under the name John M. Fallis Custom Saddles in January, 1985, in Elizabeth, CO. Then in 1987 Monte Foreman passed away, but his wife, Bobbie, continued to have a working relationship with John until 1992. By 2009 John was in Wilder, ID, building the Fallis Balanced Ride Saddle which is still built the same way as the original saddle that Monte Foreman rode so many years ago. John's customers vary from endurance riders to team ropers. The Americanas Drill Team of Idaho, for example, all ride Fallis saddles. Outside the U.S. he has a lot of customers in Sweden, Australia, and Germany. His saddles are also appreciated by people with knee
30 MAY 2016
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problems because of their unique design. "This saddle, without going to an English saddle, is the only way you're going to go to get away from those knee problems," says John. John believes that the way his stirrups are hung on a forward mounted fender with a swivel at the top gives relief to the rider's knees and ankles which a traditionally designed fender doesn't. The absence of bulk which is characteristic of Fallis’ inskirt riggings also contribute to the comfort and are lined with rawhide to give the leather strength instead of using metal hardware. Because of the unique angle of the latigos, the actual cinch hangs somewhere between a 7/8 and 3/4 rigging position. The Fallis saddles are constructed with a flatter, all leather ground seat. The seat is designed to feel more like an English saddle with your feet slightly in front of you.
"If you were riding bareback, and we slid this saddle under you, your feet should slide right into the stirrups, and your seat should remain the same," says John. John tries to make a lighter saddle for ease of saddling, but he can change the style for riders that use their saddles in specific events. If the customer wants more decoration, John's wife, Brandy, can paint different backgrounds on his saddles. He shows me a butterfly on one saddle that he carved for her which she painted and it's beautiful. John's Balance Ride Saddles start at $3,500.00. John and Brandy have a few horses. John used to show reiners, but today they ride for fun only. In 2014, they moved the shop to Nampa, ID. When asked what his plans for the future were, John says, "I was born into it. I could do a lot of other things but I don't want to." The swivel on the bottom part of the stirrup leather, under the swell, allows it to be hung a little but further forward. The top part of the stirrup leather is held to the bottom edge of the tree by a metal clip. This unique design is one of the factors that contributes to the Balanced Ride Saddle’s great feel.
To find out about the Fallis Balanced Ride Saddles, call 208-461-7252, or go to www. fallisbalancedsaddles.com.
The Right Tool for a
This saddle was built for a reiner and NRHA judge in 2001. The seat jockey has been lifted and the rigging is in excellent shape even after years of hard use. The screw and washer below the swell is where the unique fenders swivel on the tree.
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MAY 2016 31
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That’s exactly what I asked my friend and genius saddle maker Nick Pernokas the other day, and he said, “Very carefully!” Oh—ha, ha, Nick!! Funny guy!! But it’s a serious question, and I’m asking it for several reasons. Folks send us pictures of the products they’re making from time to time which we really appreciate, and I notice occasionally that there are some very talented young leather workers out there with skills but who really have little if any background when it comes to understanding the material with which they are working— leather. They kind of approach leather like it’s plywood, and one piece of leather is pretty much like another piece of leather. Leather is leather. For one thing, I see attractive products made out of chrome that maybe shouldn’t
have been made out of chrome. After all, chrome doesn’t mold very well. Unlike veg, it’s hard to round the edge. The edges can’t be burnished, and it’s a real trick to dye the edges since the dye wants to run which really distracts from a product’s finish. So does anyone have any good suggestions about: 1) how to round a chrome edge, and 2) how to dye a chrome edge neatly? I’m just waiting to hear someone say, “Use veg instead!” and, honestly, that might be the best answer. So please drop us a line if you have any secrets you’d like to share and thanks: Shop Talk!, P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net. Thanks!
SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 33
34 MAY 2016
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New Butane Pro-Thermal Tools I know—it took us long enough! But the research has been done, prototypes made and tested, and now comes the moment of truth—will you buy my
There are also 28 figurative shapes and 14 tracing/ tooling tips which may be used to decorate leather:
wares, kind sir!!
We’ve developed several new tools and attachments that can be used with leather as well as with synthetic webbing. Here’s our new No. 70TT— You can control the color of the impression by how long and how hard you press the attachments down. Colors range from light tan to a light medium brown. It’s powered by butane and burns about 30 minutes on its mid-setting. It’s refillable. The No. 70TT comes with a tip which you can use to burn holes in synthetic materials as well as trim threads closely. There are 8 additional attachments available. We have two different thermal knives which work with the handle:
There is a thermal creaser which scores a fine brown line 1/8”-3/16” from the edge.
The thermal edger/burnisher allows you to burnish leather edges and also smooth frayed synthetic materials: There are three sizes of hole burners (3/16”, 7/32”, and ¼”) and a stepped hole/thread burner:
This tool and its tips may also be used for wood burning. We also have an electric version of the same thing, the No. 30Y. It has a 6’ cord and uses all the same attachments that are available for the No.25TT. The No. 30Y does get considerably hotter than its butane counterpart which means, if you hold the stamps or tips down too long on the leather, you could burn and damage it.
Finally we also have four new attachments for our 80W Pro-Thermal Handle—two different hot knives, a thermal creaser, and a thermal edger/burnishing attachment for burnishing leather and smoothing frayed synthetic materials:
We also have a new butane handle that’s slightly smaller than the No. 70TT—our No. 25TT: It burns about 20 minutes on its mid-setting and doesn’t get quite as hot as the No. 70TT. The tool comes with a tip that you can use to burn holes as well as trim thread. We’ve also developed another model of this tool for use by people who work and play outdoors—ranchers, hikers, sailors, and equestrians involved in trail riding and the like. We call that model our No. 25FS for “Fire Sabre”. There is a hot knife available for cutting light webbing:
So there you have it! We’re excited to see what kind of response there will be to these new butane and electric thermal tools from Proleptic, Inc.! Please take a minute and look over our ads for these new tools in this issue for pricing and then give us a call! Thanks.
Contact: Proleptic, Inc., P.O. Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net. SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 35
The Ins and Outs of Waterproofing Is there actually such a thing as “waterproof leather”? Many in the industry will suggest “water resistant” is a better term to use when describing leather that is treated to repel water. They will also tell you that the process is not only good for the leather because water is damaging, but by LIISA ANDREASSEN that waterproofing also extends its life because the process acts as a lubricant and so makes the leather more pliable.
At Wickett & Craig of America, Chin Min Lim, vice president of operations, explains that they too only produce 100% vegetable leathers. Their process starts in the retanning stage and uses special oils so it is not just a surface application. He says that the leather does not need to be treated again as long as no soaps or detergents are used to clean it.
Th e P r o c e s s Rob Harvey, plant engineer at Hermann Oak Leather Company, explains that making waterproof or water-resistant leathers always comes down to adding materials to the leather so that it will not absorb water as easily. He says that there are two basic ways to achieve these goals: 1. Apply a coating of materials to the surface of the leather in a finishing operation. This is usually a fluorochemical product like 3M Scotchguard which is sprayed, or by applying waxes and greases in a roll coater. 2. Apply waterproofing chemicals in the retan and fatliquor process in the drums. This is accomplished using a variety of oils, waxes, and other chemicals. Harvey adds that they only waterproof vegetable tanned leathers. Retan drum at Hermann Oak Leather Co.
Pam Fahlander and Shawntel Toberlin of Wickett & Craig hold a side of waterproofed leather.
Like Wickett and Craig, SB Foot Tanning Co. also produces its water-resistant leathers in drums. Pete Hendrickson, vice president of sales and marketing, says that they impregnate their hides with polymers, silicons, and parafins. “This process immerses and penetrates the hide completely for a thorough waterproofing,” he explains. At SB Foot Tanning, they waterproof chrome tanned leathers and recommend that consumers use a moist cloth to wipe off dirt and residue from the grain surface because if certain chemicals such as alkalines are not removed regularly, the “waterproofness” may lose its efficiency and the surface may require a leather care product that is compatible with that particular type of leather.
P ut t ing It t o t he Test Matt Foster, owner of Maverick Leather Co., says that water-resistant leather is really put to the test when it’s being developed. Every tannery, for instance, has a lab for testing. He says that there are different criteria for military and civilian waterresistant leather.
36 MAY 2016
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Cont act Informat ion: Maverick Leather Company, Inc www.maverickleathercompany.com 541-797-2108 Wickett & Craig of America www.wickett-craig.com 814-236-2220 SB Foot Tanning Company www.sbfoot.com 781-773-1533 This leather is called “Tamarind Portsmith” and is made by Horween Leather in Chicago.
“A machine called a major flexor takes a piece of leather and tests it for standards. For military boots, the leather has to pass 15,000 flexes. For civilian boots, it has to pass 25,000 flexes. You’d think it would be the other way around, but that’s the way it is,” he says.
Mo r e Mon e y , M or e Ti m e So, is water-resistant leather more expensive? Yes. Typically, consumers can expect to pay anywhere between 15 and 20% more when compared to its non-water resistant peer. In some cases, Maverick says that it could cost $.50 more per square foot to make. “We’re in the midst of a craft movement. If someone wants it, they’ll spend it,” he says. “It makes sense, because water-resistant leather lasts longer too.” Water-resistant leathers are mostly used for shoes and boots and, to some extent, bags and luggage. The main purposes are for winter boots and work boots. “It’s quite cool to see the water bead up on lamb or goat suede,” Foster says.
Hermann Oak Leather Company www.hermannoakleather.com 314-421-1173
E d it or’s Not e: Over the years, a lot of folks have asked me, “What’s the best water proofer available?” And I always reply, “The one that you’ll use regularly.” Really, there’s nothing magical about water proofers and other leather conditioners—you just have to apply them regularly! Most of your suppliers will carry a water proofer so ask them what they recommend. The folks at Fiebing make good ones as does Bee Natural. Angelus has a good selection. But I guess if I had to suggest one company it would be Pecard Leather Care because the folks there specialize in water proofers and have an excellent reputation. They may be contacted at 1836 Industrial Dr., Green Bay, WI 54302, (800) 467-5056, www.pecard.com. For what it’s worth, the best water proofer I ever used, and sold a lot of, was Montana Pitch-Blend—it really is a superior product with a lovely pine resin smell.
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a Boots With Roots cont. from p. 23
OLATHE Olathe Boot Co., a family business founded in 1879, was first based in Olathe, Kansas. In 2001, Rios acquired the company. The American made Olathe boot is offered at a more moderate price than Rios. “Olathe boots usually start at $350 and more, depending upon what you want to do with the boot design. I have seen Olathe boots with custom inlay work sell for over $2,000. Olathe makes more of a traditional working cowboy’s boot—a taller top, a riding heel, and a full welt make it stand out,” Kahla explained.
The company also offers two other boot lines— Kids Boots and the affordable Cowboy Collection, both of which are made in Mexico with the same materials used to make Olathe boots. They’re a way to enjoy Olathe styling at a smaller price. Retailers who carry the Olathe brand include Little Joe’s Boots in Oklahoma City, OK, and Nigro’s Western Store in Kansas City, KS. Olathe’s annual sales volume is estimated at $100 to $500 million, according to chamberofcommerce. com.
ANDERSON BEAN Anderson Bean Boot Co., launched in 1988 by Trainor and Moody, also produces American made, handcrafted boots. In fact, Olathe craftspeople work side by side in the same building to create Anderson Bean boots. Many of these boot makers are related or have known each other for years so the camaraderie builds a strong tea spirit.
The Anderson Bean brand is in the same price range as the Olathe boot. “The difference between Olathe and Bean is the fit and styling. The Anderson Bean boot is more progressive, with a roper heel. Its forte is its wide, square toe and double welt stitch—a quality cowboy boot in the affordable price range,” said Kahla.
Anderson Bean retailers include the national chain Cavender’s Boot City of Tyler, TX, and B&B Western Wear of Seguin, TX. Their annual sales volume is estimated at $20 million, according to chamberofcommerce.com. In 2007, the company launched an eye appealing line of cowgirl boots. First called “Ladies Horse Power,” today, the brand is labeled Macie Bean. The all leather boot is handcrafted in León, Mexico. Retailers who carry Macie Bean boots include Cavender’s Boot City of Tyler, TX, and National Roper’s Supply of Decatur. “Macie Bean boots appeal to every woman, it doesn’t matter their age. All “We don’t have a design demographics team.You are going to of women like this line of design the boots that boots. A lot of you want. . . . We allow barrel racers are retailers to build wearing them. We offer several [design] their own versions of the inventory. They know square toed their customer. Why not barrel racing boot,” Kahla let them build a boot their said.
customer will buy? I think we’re one of the few cowboy boot makers doing that.”
— Steven Kahla, market- ing director SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 39
MOVING AHEAD Over the years, Rios of Mercedes, Olathe Boot Co., and Anderson Bean Boot Co., have built more than boots. They’ve also built business values that keep their boot making operations moving solidly ahead. Here are some of them:
What’s the difference between a cowgirl and a cowboy boot? “When we build a boot, we build a boot. We’re not building a cowboy boot or a cowgirl boot. We’re building a boot,” he said.
Stand by your brand: The three boot makers hold fast to the iconic Western image of the working cowboy with its respect for traditional, classic craftsmanship. “A lot of companies talk about using new technologies or space age materials to make boots more comfortable, but there’s no need for that. If it fits right, it fits. We’ve been doing it this way for over 160 years,” said Steven Kahla, marketing director for the three sister brands.
And, if you’re going for a pair of great cowboy boots, here’s a tip: “I highly recommend that you get fit correctly by a boot person who knows what they’re doing. If you’re going to buy a pair of $600 boots, they better fit right!” he advised.
“You’re not going to win world champion because the boot has some odd technology. We’re not going to say you’ll be a champion if you wear our boots, but we do say that your feet aren’t going to hurt while you’re trying.” Evolve: Being rooted in tradition doesn’t mean designs need to stay the same. “Styles are always
40 MAY 2016
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going to change,” commented Kahla. “Five or six years ago, everything was about bright colors and flashy designs. We have flowered the heck out of these boots for the past five years. Now we see a lot of tone-on-tone designs, with a bright color on a stitch pattern, or side seam, or top dressing. Both men’s and women’s boots are trending now to have more of a traditional look. There’s an emergence of inlays with subtle tones, not overpowering color.” Be creative: Customizing is a big part of their boot businesses. “If someone goes into a retail store and wants a boot customized from a boot seen on the shelf, all three companies will do customizing— and we do quite a bit of it,” Kahla said. “They also allow retailers to design their own inventory. What a retailer in Houston has on their shelf may not be the same as what is on the shelf in Kansas City.” Repair and refurbish: Got a hole in your sole? A busted seam? All three boot lines offer recrafting services for their customers’ favorite but tired boots. “Our craftsmen will strip the boot insole all the way down and rebuild the boot the way it was done the first time. Recrafting is about 10% of the business. The cost for recrafting is about $95 to $150. These are not disposable products. We’ve been recycling boots for over 160 years,” he said. Keep top-notch craftspeople: Is it hard to find skilled leather craftspeople? “Extremely,” Kahla said. “Most of our maestros are at Rios—the best of the best. Anderson Bean and Olathe have very talented craftsmen—and women craftsmen. They will bring in their sons and daughters, nieces, and nephews if they want to learn the trade. It’s not a defined apprenticeship. It’s learning the trade from relatives. We treat them right, pay them well, and they have great benefits.”
Hold down the fort: The big challenge for U.S. shoe and boot businesses is competition from low priced, made-in-Asia footwear. For many years, the global economy has been putting tremendous pressure on U.S. boot companies. From 1997 and 2002, “the value of U.S. production of western style boots fell 40%,” according to U.S. Census Bureau information. How can U.S. boot companies beat the odds? “We make quality boots. It’s something they can’t make overseas. We build one of the best quality boots you’re going to buy. It is a “Five or sign of professionalism, knowledge of Western six years ago, apparel and status everything was about boots. If you‘ve got a bright colors and pair of Rios or Olathe or Anderson Bean flashy designs. We have boots, you’ve got a pair flowered the heck out of something. I have yet to see that come of these boots for the out of China or the past five years. Now Philippines,” Kahla said. we see a lot of toneSpur innovation. To on-tone designs, compete with imported with a bright color boots, Olathe introduced on a stitch pattern, the “Cowboy Collection” at the Denver Market in or side seam, or 2009. “The affordable line top dressing. In brought them a boost in both men’s and sales. . . . We’ve also seen women’s boots, the an increase in sales in our American trend is going back to line,” he said.
the more traditional.”
— Steven Kahla, marketing
director
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Corral outsourcing: Rios, Olathe, and Anderson Bean boots are American made products. The newer lines, Macie Bean, Cowboy Collection, Horse Power, and Kids Boots are separate brands and are made in Mexico. “We’re outsourcing only on the manufacturing end,” Kahla said, referring to the products that are made in Mexico. “We still own all the raw material we send down to Mexico. We are still supporting a majority of American businesses, even with our Mexico-made product.” Will Made-in-China labels one day be found in a Rios, Olathe or Anderson Bean boot? “No! Never. You will not find a made in China label in our boots. We will not even entertain the notion,” he said emphatically. Embrace social media: “We have aggressively approached the market through social media, with specific advertising campaigns. We keep things very simple. You don’t see a lot of flash. That doesn’t sell a cowboy boot like we produce. Our boots sell themselves,” said Kahla. Having a Facebook presence gives the three boot companies a bigger store footprint. “Facebook allows the consumer to assist us in adding more
42 MAY 2016
SHOP TALK!
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retailer based, consumer demand. It’s a ‘drag method’ of marketing. It’s a method of using the consumer to drive your product to the retail presence. If enough people ask for our boots, the stores are going to supply them.”
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But social media can sometimes be a rough ride. “If they [customers] have issues, we get blasted on social media,” he admitted. ”But it’s amazing to see the direct contact the general consumer has with companies such as ours. We could turn off their ability to post on our [Web site] page. But, customers want to belong to something. We try to respond to every message on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. We are problem solvers. We provide customer service. We like to take something that‘s wrong and make it right. We do take care of our customers as best we can. We get more praise than flak.” Negative feedback, he added, is an opportunity to educate the customer. “For instance, if someone is wearing boots with leather soles in the feed yard, they’re not going to last very long. If they complain, we’ll say: ‘Let’s change the soles. Let’s put one of our composite materials for the sole that will work
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with what you’re doing.’ They will have to pay for that service, but we can do it. We can put a crepe, Nitrene or Vibram sole on a boot. It’s like changing tires on a car. We can change heels, too, if you want a roper heel instead of a cowboy heel, or vice versa,” he said. Broaden your ad base: “We’ve been looking into alternative publications targeted at nontraditional boot wearers. We’ve always been able to look at what’s happening and find alternatives that are not within the scope of our product,” he said. An example? Placing ads in Southwest: The Magazine, the inflight publication of Southwest Airlines. Befriend endorsers: To bring a positive boost to brand identification, all three boot manufacturers cultivate product endorsers like world champion steer dogger Hunter Cure, Colorado Rockies pitcher Matt Belisle and leading quarter horse breeder Carol Rose. “They’re not just a name but a relationship. A lot of endorsers are our friends, too. They are us, we are them. We are not sitting in a high-rise putting together boot ads,” Kahla said. Get behind worthy groups and causes: “We sponsor a number of large associations,” Kahla said, such as, the National Cutting Horse Association (NCHA) and the National Reined Horse National Association (NRHA). And they sponsor the Texas 4H and various charitable organizations. “When a tornado hit Oklahoma, we shipped roughly 500 pairs of boots to Oklahoma City so they could be distributed through the Salvation Army and Red Cross, to help take care of people in need. When the West Texas fertilizer plant blew up, we took water and 1,000 T-shirts,” he said.
44 MAY 2016
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A BOOTFUL OF HISTORY During the longhorn cattle drive era (1866 to 1884), cowboys needed rugged boots. This demand gave rise to a number of historic boot makers who plied their trade in the cattle ranching regions of Texas, Oklahoma, and Kansas. In fact, Olathe Boot Co. traces its roots to Hyer Brothers Boots of Olathe, KS, a family business formed in 1879 by Charles Hyer, an early boot maker. In those days, cowhands driving cattle to Kansas City stockyards would head to Olathe to order boots. Olathe boots were famously worn by Old West legends like Wild Bill Hickok and Jesse James. In the 1970s, however, the Hyers family sold the company to some of their former employees who, in turn, formed the Olathe Boot Co. In 2001, Rios of Mercedes of Mercedes, TX, bought assets from Olathe Boot Co. and moved its production from Olathe to Mercedes.
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Rios of Mercedes, established in 1853 by the Rios family, is the oldest boot company in the United States. Originally based in Mexico in the early 1900s, the Rios family brought their boot making art to Mercedes to escape the Mexican Revolution and raids of Pancho Villa. The family continued hand making boots for working cowboys and later added Western movie stars like Gene Autry to their list of fans. When Zeferino, the last of the Rios family boot makers, retired in the 1960s, he sold the company to a group in West Texas.
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Today, Rios continues to craft high-end, USAmade, premium boots in the style of Rios family craftsmen—by hand. In the late 1980s, Rios developed a secondary company, Anderson Bean Boot Co., located next door to Rios. Contact these three boot makers at P.O. Box 13, Mercedes, TX 78570. Web sites: www.andersonbean.com; www.olatheboots.com; www. riosofmercedes.com.
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46 MAY 2016
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M AY 2016
News, Notes & Queries
TCAA CRAFTSMANSHIP SYMPOSIUM We really want to thank our Senior Feature Writer, Nick Pernokas, for sending us information on the Western Craftsmanship Symposium sponsored by the Traditional Cowboy Arts Association this coming October 13-14. You’ll need to contact TCAA about whether or not nonmembers may attend and the cost. There are two days of seminars and talks. The title of the talk scheduled to be given by Shep Hermann of Hermann Oak Leather is, “Are Good Business Ethics Still Essential?” There is a forum discussion on “Pricing Your Work in Today’s Environment” and one on “The Essential of Marketing as a Craftsman and the Use of Social Media”. That’s only a few of the talks and forums that will be taking place at the Symposium which promises to be a dandy. There’s a whole lot of very practical information to be gained from some very successful and very interesting industry professionals. Contact: TCAA, P O Box 2002, Salmon, ID 83467, (208) 865-2006, www. tcowboyarts.org.
MARTIN SPRING SALE We got a super flyer for Martin Auctioneer’s annual spring sale on April 29-30, too late to mention in the April issue. However, you can get on their mailing list yourself so that you won’t have to miss any future sales. The one this past April must have been huge—what a great selection of coaches, carriages, wagons, sleighs a lot more!! Lots like one of the best selection of vehicles and appointments they’ve ever had. Contact: P O Box 99, New Holland, PA 17557, (717) 354-6671, www.martinauctioneers.com.
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MAY 2016 47
News, Notes & Queries OHIO TRAVEL BAG’S OPPENHEIM RETIRES A class on English bridle work begins April 25 and In a brief news release, Ohio Travel Bag has announced the retirement of Bruce Oppenheim after 30 years with the company. The new president and CEO is Michael Fox who may be contacted at (440) 3374918. His vice president is Jackie Loudin and her number is (440) 337-4923. To place orders please call (800) 800-1941. If there’s one catalog that every shop in the leather trades needs—regardless of what you make—it has to be the one from OTB which contains such a diversity of unusual and interesting supplies and types of hardware. I’m sure everyone will join with ShopTalk! in thanking Bruce for his many years of service to the trades and his dedication to making his company an essential supplier to 1,000’s of shops, retailers, and manufacturers—thank you, Bruce!
48 MAY 2016
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News, Notes & Queries 50TH INTERNATIONAL GUILD SHOW READ GOODS & SERVICES There’s a great bunch of specials and new products listed in “Goods & Services” this month— exceptionally good. Something for everyone—saddle makers, custom boot makers, chap makers, shoe repairers, makers of personal leather goods, and more. You need it—we’ve got it! Like this solid brass French shoe hammer from Boise Foundry.
That’s quite an anniversary—congratulations go out to the International Federation of Leather Guilds whose annual show will be hosted this year by the Buckeye Leather Crafters of Central Ohio this coming Sept. 15-18. Mark your calendar! For all the details please contact Allan Scheider at allanms@columbus.rr.com.
Got a new product or a special you’d like us to mention? Just drop us a line and thanks very much— Shop Talk!, P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net.
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News, Notes & Queries THE SADDLE CONTEST IS BACK! Yee-ha! Get your saddles ready for the upcoming 28th annual Boot & Saddle Makers Roundup saddle contest! Make sure you have your saddle at the show on Oct. 7 and please bring a stand! Belt buckles and plaques for the winners. Here are the categories: Beginner—To be eligible for the category the saddle must be the maker’s very first saddle and must have been started after last year’s contest. All construction and tooling must be done by the saddle maker him or herself. Novice—Saddle makers wishing to enter their work in this category must have 5 years or less experience. Open Geometric—Saddles will be fully or partially tooled, geometric stamped (basket, waffle, barbed wire, etc.). Plain saddles may be entered into this category whereas plain or geometric saddles with floral, decorative knife cuts, or figures must enter the Open Floral category. Open Floral—Full or partially tooled floral, oak leaf, figures or decorative knife cuts. Geometrics may be incorporated. Working Cowboy—Heavy duty saddle for the working cowboy. All saddles entered must have been started after last year’s contest. For all the details, please contact this year’s coordinators Robert and Pebble Brown at (940) 210-8155.
NEWS FROM SHERIDAN LEATHER OUTFITTERS While Sheridan Leather remains for sale, the company has decided to go ahead and close its doors. Orders will be accepted through May 10. If there is no buyer by the 10th, then there will be an auction of remaining inventory, displays, showcases, artwork, and fixtures on May 18. The 2016 Pendleton Leather Show will still be held on November 4-5. Updates maybe found at www. pendletonleathershow.com. The show is located in Pendleton, OR. The business is located in Sheridan, WY, and its number is (307) 674-6679. Here are some web addresses with all the latest information: www.sheridanleather.com www.sheridanleather.forsale Best of luck to Luke and Vandy as they make this transition to a new, and we hope, interesting phase of their lives. Many thanks for your years of service.
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PLASTIC & METAL HARDWARE for webbing & miscellaneous items Grommets Washers 3 colors & Snaps 39 cap colors.
Firewood Bundle Webbing Handles Automated Hot/Sear Cutting on webbing, Elastics and Hook & Loop. For no-fray ends use Hot cutting on webbing for belt tip ends. 2-1/4” Electric Webbing & Rope Cutters for cut it yourself. Self-Locking Nylon Ties (Cable Ties) 4” thru 15”. BIAS or STRAIGHT CUT fabric binding tape slitting SINGLE & DOUBLE folded Bias Tapes * 200+ colors. CORD EDGE PIPING 200+ colors & Asst. Cord Fillers for horse blankets.
Up to 200 Catalog color pages available. Save paper order as needed from our catalog index pages and the latest changes by e-mail in the same day to sales@sunbias.com (or USPS mail takes longer) TOLL FREE NATION WIDE 1-800-425-4747 • FAX 1-414-265-5353
MOST IN STOCK MATERIALS ARE SHIPPED WITHIN 24 HOURS. MASTER CARD,*VISA,*DISCOVER & E-CHECKS
50 MAY 2016
SHOP TALK!
News, Notes & Queries
ON THE MOVE We hear from Amos Stoltzfus at Buena Vista Blankets that he has sold the company and will soon be starting up a new operation sewing heavy canvas. As soon as Amos has a name for the new company and address, we will let you know. Buena Vista Blankets has become Beacon Hollow Blankets and will be making the same fine line of pads, feed bags, and blankets. The new owner is Abner K. Stoltzfus and the new address is 105 Centerville Rd., Gordonville, PA 17529, (717) 768-0289.
The American Donkey & Mule Society Established 1967—Serving Longears and their owners for over 40 years.
World’s Largest Single Source of Information and Services for all sizes of Donkeys, Mules & Zebra Hybrids. Home of the BRAYER magazine, The Original All-Breed Longear Publication 112 pages bi-Monthly. $23 US, $30 Canada, $35 overseas Ck, MO, Paypal, MC/Visa ADMS, PO Box 1210, Lewisville TX 75067 (972) 219-0781 Email lovelongears@hotmail.com ** www.lovelongears.com
Best of luck to Amos & Abner in their new endeavors!!
Sew What Supplies?!
400 Travis Ln., Unit 28, Waukesha, WI 53189 (800) 390-9503
Zippers YKK Hook & Loop Thread Webbing trucker tiedown nylon halter polypro Shock Cord/Cording
Nylon Fabrics cordura Elastic pack cloth Fiebing Products oxford cloth Grommets Vinyl Coated Mesh Hardware Vinyl Coated Truck metal Tarp plastic Imitation Sheepskin
www.sewwhatsupplies.com
SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 51
News, Notes & Queries
ON THE LOOKOUT. . .
PRACTICAL HARNESS ADVICE It seems like in most issues of Rural Heritage there are practical articles on different styles of harness and how to use them. For example, in the February/ March issue, there’s an article entitled, “My Favorite Harness” which discusses a very simple style of harness, and there is also an article entitled, “Light Harness”. Plus there are lots of other useful pieces on packing, farming with horses, oxen, and more. So it’s a great resource of information for both you and your customers. You just might get some new ideas!
Joey Wenger at JR Wenger Custom Saddles, 2560 Lake Meade Rd., East Berlin, PA 17316, (717) 752-5902, is looking for Camoga spitting machines, any model, any condition.
Nor is it a bad place to advertise if you’re making harness, collars, pads, or blankets—give it a try! Contact: P O Box 2067, Cedar Rapids, IA 524062067, (319) 362-3027, www.ruralheritage.com.
Milton Sokol & Co. Inc. ~ Demar Leather Company Established 1927
Russet Vegetable Tanned Leathers:
-Double Backs -Double Butts -Tooling Sides -Bellies -Shoulders -Sole Bends
Call Toll Free 1-888-765-6526 “Just ask for Jesse”
*Premium South American Skirting, Bridle & Harness *Large assortment of Oil Tanned and Chap Sides *Full color range of Upholstery and Garment Leathers
127-25 Metropolitan Avenue Kew Gardens, NY 11415 Ph: (718) 441-2226 Fx: (718) 441-2299 email: sales@msokol.com 52 MAY 2016
SHOP TALK!
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For the anything goes category--anything goes as far as subject matter or the use of colors or paints. No spots or other metal ornaments.
Prizes: only a first place prize will be awarded in each category.
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There are two carving categories:
3traditional 3anything goes
There is a total of six categories in which contestants may enter. Contestants may enter one or both carving categories appropriate to their age group.
For the traditional category—can be a combination of traditional stamping and carving. Only traditional colors of dyes and finishes may be used—browns, blacks, and tans.
810-14: $120 815-19: $170 820-24: $220
Winners will have their work featured in a future issue. Each contestant will receive a free year’s subscription to Shop Talk! plus a copy of our annual buyer’s guide as a thank you for your participation. All decisions by Shop Talk! are final. Should the level of competition in any of the categories be unsatisfactory, Shop Talk! may choose not award a prize. Deadline: July 20, 2016. Send to: Shop Talk!, P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816. Call (828) 505-8474 or e-mail: shoptalk@ proleptic.net with any questions you may have. Thanks and good luck—now show us what you can do!!!!
SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 53
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To enter: we need your name, address, phone number and birthdate. We also need TWO samples of your carving not to be larger than 6” x 5” or a total of 30 sq. inches. They can be smaller than 30 sq. inches. Samples submitted remain the property of Shop Talk! and will not be returned. You need to include a statement that no one else has helped with the work submitted for the contest.
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Are you seeing dollar signs yet? ShopTalk! is sponsoring a carving contest for young carvers. There are three age groups:
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54 MAY 2016
SHOP TALK!
News, Notes & Queries MARK YOUR CALENDAR 2016!
BREATHE EASY!
MAY 20-22 Rocky Mountain Leather Trade Show, Sheridan, WY. Hosted by Leather Crafters Journal. Contact: 222 Blackburn St., Rhinelander, WI 54501. (888) 289-6409, www. leathercraftersjournal.com. JUNE 15-16 Weaver Leather Consignment Auction. Contact: 2540 County Road 201, Millersburg, OH 44654, (800) WEAVER-1, www. weaverleather.com. JULY 14-15 47th Annual Harness Makers’ GetTogether and consignment auction. Auction on 14th at Windy Knoll Sewing, Nottingham, PA, (717) 529-7506. Get-Together on 15th at Keystone Harness & Tack, Drumore, PA, (717) 284-4565 OCTOBER 7-8 Custom Boot & Saddle Makers’ Roundup, Wichita Falls, TX. For all the details contact Kimmel Boot, 2080 County Road 304, Comanche, TX 76442, (325) 356-3197, www. bootandsaddlemakerstradeshow.com
e l b o C ntz Collar
Ltd.
MAnUFActUReRS OF: All kinds of horse collars for work, pleasure, and show.
Also your source for quality
waisT beLTs made with USA leather.
Made & Sold Here!
There’s a pretty good article in the March issue of Plain Communities Business Exchange on ventilators for the house to help keep the air circulating and controlling humidity. These are Aura Ventilators which have been modified by Maple Lane Metals in Arthur, IL. They are air-driven and sit up higher on the roof than some models. They also have solar powered models for days when the air isn’t stirring. When I read the piece I thought to myself—wow! These would be GREAT for a lot shops to help remove the fumes that can linger inside and keep the air fresh! This is so important when you’re doing any sort of burning or melting of synthetic materials because the fumes they produce are toxic. Don’t breathe! Not for 5 minutes. If you’re working with synthetic materials you absolutely have to have a GOOD respirator and an exhaust system which people like N&A Harness and Beiler’s Mfg. & Supply sell. If you don’t, you’re a fool and you’re courting disaster. So keep your shop safe and keep yourself healthy by avoiding problems BEFORE they happen! If you want to find out more about the Aura Ventilators, please contact Maple Lane Metals at 422 E County Road 370 N, Arthur, IL 61911, (217) 543-3680. You’ll be glad you did.
Please call or write for a free catalog.
Coblentz Collar L.T.D.
3348 US Route 62 • Millersburg, Ohio 44654 Ph.: 330-893-3858 • Fax: 330-893-1166 Visa-Mastercard Accepted
Custom Made Collars
SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 55
We know it’s been a long year, but remember...
GOOD THINGS COME TO THOSE WHO WAIT! AV AIL AB LE NO W!
SPRINGFIELD LEATHER COMPANY 1463 S. Glenstone Springfield, MO 65808 1-800-668-8518 www.springfieldleather.com 56 MAY 2016
SHOP TALK!
BU Y, SE LL OR TRAD E
CLASSIFIEDS
Classified ad rates are $26.50 for the first 20 words and $.65 cents for each additional word. Words (or groups of letters) fewer than three characters are not counted when calculating the cost of the ad. Street addresses are counted as one word. City, state, country, and zip or postal code are combined and counted as one word. Enclose payment when submitting ads. Ads received without payment will be held until payment is made. Ads must
be received no later than the fifth of the month prior to the month you wish the ad to run (e.g. ads for the February issue must be in our office by January 5). Typed or neatly printed ads are preferred. We are not responsible for mistakes due to handwriting. Faxed ads must be typed and are accepted with MasterCard, VISA or Discover only.
WANTED
FOR SALE
EXPERT MECHANIC WANTED: Must have working knowledge of the Campbel-Bosworth Cyclone sewing machines. Preferably in the Tri-State area (Texas), but not necessary. Call John at (718) 445-6200, M-TR, 7am-2pm EST. (R&B)
NEW!! ALL SYNTHETIC HORSE COLLARS!! Available in buggy, All Purpose, and Draft Styles. In stock for immediate shipping. We also stock Brahma webbing, Bio sheet, belting, nylon webbing, thread, and hardware. We manufacture and stock a full line if synthetic harness parts and supplies. Free catalogs available. Contact: Countryside Manufacturing, 504 S. Humbert St., Milton, IA 52570.
WANTED: New subscribers from Iowa, Idaho, Kansas, and Nevada. Now is the time to renew! Give us a call at (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net or visit www.proleptic.net. WANTED: Complete tool collections. Contact: Shop Talk!, P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net. WANTED: Bench equipment. Any condition. Skivers, splitters, pressers, spotters, etc. Also parts and pieces— bolts, frames, springs, blades. We pay shipping. Contact Shop Talk!, P.O. Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net. LOOKING FOR WHOLESALE OUTLET to sell leather belts and/or other handcrafted leather products. Contact: Dan D. Troyer, 10896 Rt. 28N, Brockway, PA 15824. EXPERIENCED SADDLE MAKER AND/OR CHAP MAKER NEEDED in historic Hamley & Co. saddle shop. Must be able to relocate to Pendleton, OR. Call Penny at (541) 278-1100, option 1. (5/16)
S CLASSIFIED ST BUY! ARE OUR BE ers .....
uy ’s of potential b Reach 1,000 $26.50!! for as little as
HITCHING POST SUPPLY has a large inventory of mane and tail horsehair by the pound for use in pottery, mecates, braiding, hitching, and more. Supplier of 8-ply mohair cord both available in natural and dyed colors. Instructional books and DVD’s at www. hitchingpostsupply.com, (800) 689-9971 or (360) 6682349. REBUILT KREBS SKIVER—excellent condition. Ready to use. $560 + SH. Contact: Proleptic, Inc., P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@ proleptic.net. FOR SALE: Industrial Pfaff box stitching machine with stand and electric motor in working condition, $450. Standard River spot setter with stand. Fully automatic, 110v, excellent condition. Setup for 3/8” spots with ½” parts included. $2,000. Contact: Mud Creek Leather, LLC, 9415 W 300 S, Topeka, IN 46571, (260) 593-0044. LEATHER UNLIMITED. Quality wholesale leather distributor since 1970 including oak, deerskin, garment, rawhide, oiled cowhide, furs, and more. Quality leather goods, leather tools, black powder gear, all steel clicker and mallet dies. Complete Internet catalog at www. LeatherUnltd.com or call (800) 993-2889 for quality leather and friendly service from a USA family-owned and operated business. (R&B) SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 57
CLASSIFIEDS FOR SALE: Juki MO-1516G Class FF6 Extra Heavy Duty Serger with safety stitch. Table, stand, clutch 110V, 1725 rpm motor. Excellent condition, $950 or best offer. Singer 269W114 bar tracker adjustable lockstitch sewing machine. Table, stand, motor. $225 or best offer. Contact: Steve Miller, 1317 Horan Drive, Fenton, MO 63026, (636) 349-2244. KREBS SKIVER BLADES new. $200 plus SH. Made in US. Double tempered. Contact: Proleptic, Inc., P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, shoptalk@proleptic. net INSTALL AND REMOVE CHICAGO SCREWS quickly and easily in the shop or on the trail. $16.95 + $4 S&H. Call for wholesale pricing. Contact: JP’s Bridle & Equine Tool, 26266 E. County Road 700 N., Easton, IL 62633. (309) 562-7266. E-mail: jp-equinetacktool@casscomm. com, www.jptacktool.com. FOR ALL YOUR LEATHER NEEDS. Call Moser Leather (800) 874-1167 or (513) 889-0500. You can visit our website at www.moserleatherco.com. (R&B) FOR SALE: The Pro-Concho Turner: The only one in the U.S. Makes removal of decorative conchos a snap! Used with electric drill. Take the fuss and bother out of a difficult job with the Pro-Concho Turner! Saves time, makes money! Rubber gripper protects the concho and makes removal or installation easy. Only $29.00 plus $3.95 S&H, 6-inch steel shank, and rubber gripper. Ready to use! Contact: Proleptic, Inc., P.O. Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net.
The “Word of the Day” is: nefarious Shetler’s Collar Shop Manufacturing a full line of horse, pony and mule collars. Collar clocks and mirrors also available.
llar lity co ble a u q A asona at a re ice. pr #99 farm collar with 18” draft.
Write us for a free price list 5819 Flat Iron Road • Conewango Valley, New York 14726
58 MAY 2016
SHOP TALK!
FOR SALE: “Making Harness: A Step-by-Step Guide”, $58 plus $5.50 S&H. Specs and instructions on how to make and repair six styles of harness from pony to draft, driving, team wagon and mule. Contact: Proleptic, Inc., P.O. Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net, www.proleptic.net. FOR SALE: Randall Splitter. $1,200. Excellent working condition. 100% full blade. Call Texas Saddlery at (903) 765-2600 or e-mail: dmartin@txsaddlery.com. FOR SALE: Pricing Guide: “How to Establish Prices for the Saddle Maker and Leather Worker.” Only $39.95 plus $4.50 S&H. Contact: (828) 505-8474. (12/12) FOR SALE: New and used Adler, Brother, Consew, Juki, Pfaff, Singer machines for sewing bio-plastic, canvas, leather and nylon. Available in single or double needles, standard, long arm, flatbed, postbed, cylinder arm. Contact: Bob Kovar, Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine, 3631 Marine Rd., Toledo, OH 43609, (866) 362-7397 or (419) 380-8540. (11/10) WWW.THELEATHERGUY.ORG for all your leather, tool, and supply needs. Friendly, helpful staff at (507) 9323795. (R&B)
CLASSIFIEDS NEED HELP PRICING? The “Green Book” Guide to Pricing Repairs and Western Tack. American Saddle Makers Association. Contact us at (719) 494-2848 or www.saddlemakers.org. (1/17)
Simplifying Leathercraft.
BOOT & SHOE
We have redesigned our labels to help you better identify the steps involved in preparing, coloring and finishing your next leathercraft project. Look for the color coded stripe and use Fiebing’s to create the project of your dreams.
BUSINESS FOR SALE: Davis Custom Boot located at 1209 E. 11th St., Quanah, TX 79252. Contact: (940) 8396537 for more information.
Prep
WANTED: Experienced Shoe Repair Person. Successful applicant will perform shoe and boot repair at established premier shoe store of forty years. Will train to next level of orthopedics and custom shoe making. Opportunity for complete management of shoe repair shop. Pay/ hours based on experience and training required. Located in northeastern Ohio. E-mail resume to: cobblerscorner2003@yahoo.com. For more information contact Heather or Kathy at (330) 482-4005.
Dyes
Antiques
Edge Finishes
Top Finishes
www.fiebing.com
FIND US ON FACEBOOK! ShopTalkLeatherMagazine SHOP TALK!
MAY 2016 59
ADVERTISERS INDEX American Leather Direct........................33
Hermann Oak Leather..............................46
Precision Saddle Tree..............................37
Beachy Blacksmith Ltd..............................7
Hide House, The.........................................43
Proleptic........... 3, 6, 10, 11, 12, 13, 16, 17, 18,
Beacon Hollow Blankets.........................11
Hillside Harness Hardware.....back cover
...23, 31, 34, 38, 48, 51, 52, 58, back cover
Beiler’s Mfg. & Supply.................................9
IHS ELP, LLC................................................49
RJF Leather.................................................44
BioThane......................................................24
International Sheepskin............................9
Sew What?! Supplies...............................51
Bogle-Greenwell Machinery Corp........22
J.M. Saddler, Inc.........................................51
Shelton-Reynolds, Inc.............................42
Bowden Saddle Tree.................................40
Kalico Products..........................................14
Sheridan Leather.......................................29
Brayer............................................................51
Kelly-Larson Sales....................................46
Shetler’s Collar Shop...............................58
Brodhead Collar Shop..............................42
Landis Sales & Service...........................43
ShoTan..........................................................53
Buckeye Engraving...................................21
Leather Crafters Journal........................29
Small Farmer’s Journal............................43
Buckle Barn USA........................................12
Leather Machine Co., Inc., The...................
Smoke & Fire Co........................................44
Buggy Builder’s Bulletin..........................41
...........................................inside back cover
Sorrell Notions & Findings.....................20
Campbell-Randall......................................26
Leather Unlimited.....................................19
Southstar Supply......................................43
Chino Tack...................................................43
Ludwig & Marglin Leather.......................42
Springfield Leather...................................56
Chupp Blacksmith Shop.........................14
Mark Staton................................................25
Steel Stamps, Inc.....................................53
Coblentz Collar...........................................55
Maverick Leather......................................50
Sun Bias, Inc................................................50
Danny Marlin Knives.................................47
MDY Consignment....................................48
Sweat Pad Shop....................................... 44
E.C. Leather....................................................9
Milton Sokol................................................52
TechSew/Raphael’s Sewing..........................
Fairview Country Sales...........................44
Mud Creek Leather...................................45
.......................................... inside front cover
Fiebing..........................................................59
Mules and More.........................................45
Texas Custom Dies...................................13
Fine Tool Journal........................................41
N & A Harness Shop.................................49
Toledo Sewing...............................................1
Gfeller Casemakers, Inc..........................14
Nettles Country Store.............................45
Wayne Jueschke.......................................21
Goliger Leather Co....................................45
Ohio Plastics Belting Co.........................13
Weaver Leather.........................................32
Hadlock & Fox Mfg. Co............................27
Orion Calf, LTD............................................30
Western Mule.............................................47
Hansen Western Gear.............................22
Ohio Travel Bag...........................................48
Wickett & Craig..........................................54
Hastilow/NASS..........................................48
Perfectex Plus, LLC..................................21
Advertising
Deadline for advertising copy is the 5th of the month prior to the month of publication. Invoices are due upon receipt. 6 or 12-month prepaid advertising contracts receive a 5% discount.
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Shop Talk! published by Proleptic, Inc. P.O. Box 17817 Asheville, NC 28816 (828) 505-8474 shoptalk@proleptic.net www.proleptic.net 60 MAY 2016
SHOP TALK!
Full Page $502.00 Half Page $280.00 Quarter Page $152.00 Eighth Page $81.00 (Color and guaranteed placement additional)
Setup Charge
$60 per hour with a $18 minimum. Line art may be inserted at no additional charge. $10 per photo.
Inserts
$399 for one page— Maximum trim size: 8-1/4” X 10-3/4” $45 each additional page. Event flyers must be inserted 60 days in advance. All inserts must be shipped directly to printer.
Reduce - Reuse - Recycle Recycling old magazines, catalogs, and newspapers is one of the easiest ways to help the environment. To increase the supply of recoverable wood fiber and to reduce the demand on regional landfills, Shop Talk! urges its readers to support recycling efforts in their communities. Shop Talk! is printed with only vegetable-based inks.
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MAY 2016 61
MAY 2016 P.O. BOX 17817, ASHEVILLE, NC 28816
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Distributors of Quality Hardware & Supplies for the Harness, Tack, Saddlery, and Pet Industries
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• BioThane Coated Webbing • Thoroughbred Leather • Quality Stainless Steel and Brass Saddlery Hardware • Fiebing Products • WahlClippers • Fortex & Fortiflex Products • Nylon Webbing • Leather and BioThane Harness Parts plus much more
Large enough to serve you… Small enough to need you! We manufacture our own line of leather riding and training tack. We also do custom leather and nylon work.
4205 Township Road 629 Millersburg, OH 44654 Request your free catalog today!