St sept 2015

Page 1

The Leather Retailers' and Manufacturers' Journal

September 2015

Shop Talk! with Boot and Shoe News

d Soft Star Shoes d Highs and Lows of Show Chaps d Leather Worker of the Month d How to Make Knife Sheaths

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Shop Talk! |

The Leather Retailers’ and Manufacturers’ Journal

with Boot & Shoe News

Shop Talk!

June 2015

Laugh Lines 5

The Leather Retailers' and Manufacturers' Journal

With Boot and Shoe News

Little's BOOTS

Celebrates

Hide Report 8 Boot & Shoe News 13 News, Notes & Queries 48

Pg. 36

Years 1915 - 2015

Since 1984

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Read Shop Talk! Online with links to advertisers and online information www.proleptic.net ShopTalkLeatherMagazine

Classifieds 58

Soft Star Shoes.............................14 D.W. Frommer............................22 Goods & Services.........................28 Leather Worker of the Month.........29 Highs and Lows of Show Chaps.......30 Get-Together in Illinois..................36

Pg. 30

How To Make Knife Sheaths...........46

Shop Talk!

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Shop Talk! is published monthly (ISSN 1547-0121) by Proleptic, Inc. Subscription rates are $36 annually, $39 (US) for Canada and Mexico, and $54 (US) for all other countries. Shop Talk! is the official monthly publication of the Saddle, Harness, and Allied Trades Association (SHATA). SHATA members receive a $4 discount on annual subscriptions. For more information on subscriptions, advertising rates, or SHATA membership, contact us at (828) 505-8474 or www.proleptic.net


Laugh Lines When the statistician came in, they asked the same question. The statistician pondered the question for a moment and then answered, “1,000. I’m 95% confident.” When the accountant entered the room, he was asked the same question: “What is 500 + 500?” The accountant replied, “What would you like it to be?”

At the end of the semester, a 10th grade chemistry teacher asked her students what was the most important thing that they learned in lab. A student promptly raised his hand and said, “Never lick the spoon.”

The teacher asked, “What was the name of the person in Greek mythology who was half man and half animal?” A student raised her hand and answered, “Buffalo Bill.”

A student came late to school and his teacher asked him, “Why were you late to school?” The student said, “My mom and dad were fighting.” Teacher asked, “What does your parents fighting have to do with your being late for school?” Student replied, “One of my shoes was in my mom’s hand and the other one was in my dad’s hand.”

First student: “How old is Professor Smith?” Second student: “Pretty old. They say he used to teach Shakespeare.” Q: Why is 6 afraid of 7? A: Because 7 8 9. Q: Why is a math book always unhappy? A: Because it always has lots of problems. There were three people applying for the same job. One was a mathematician, one a statistician, and one and accountant. The interviewing committee first called in the mathematician. They said, “We have only one question: what is 500 + 500?” The mathematician, without hesitating, replied, “1,000.” The committee then called in the statistician. Shop Talk!

september 2015

| 5


Q: What’s the difference between a teacher and a train? A: A teacher says, “Spit out the gum!” And a train says, “Chew! Chew!” The teacher said, “Here is a math problem. If your dad earned $300 a week and he gave your mother half, what would she have?” A student answered, “A heart attack!” The teacher was talking to her class about the Mason-Dixon Line. She then asked, “What does this line divide?”

“This line divides,” a student replied, “the ‘you all’ from the ‘youse guys’ people of America.” Teacher: Why did you eat your homework, Joe? Joe: Because I don’t have a dog.

6 | september 2015

A teacher sends a letter home to a student’s parents: “If you don’t believe half of what he says goes on in school, then I won’t believe half of what he says goes on at home either.” Q: How do you play hooky from correspondence school? A: Send them an empty envelope.

Q: What’s the difference between a Ph.D. in mathematics and a large pizza? A: A large pizza can feed a family of four. A group of teachers were being feted by a number of business groups in the neighborhood neighbohood. At the end of his welcoming speech, the head of the Chamber of Commerce said, raising his wine glass, “Long live our teachers!” A voice in the back said, “On what?”

Shop Talk!


Some Grammar Walks Into a Bar

Three intransitive verbs walk into a bar. They sit. They drink. They leave. A comma splice walks into a bar, it has a drink then leaves. A dangling modifier walks into a bar. After finishing a drink, the bartender asks it to leave. A question mark walks into a bar? Two quotation marks “walk into� a bar. A gerund and an infinitive walk into a bar, drinking a drink. The bar was walked into by the passive voice. The past, the present, and the future walked into a bar. It was tense. A synonym ambles into a pub. A hyperbole totally ripped into this bar and destroyed everything. A run on sentence walks into a bar it is thirsty. Falling slowly, softly falling, the chiasmus collapsed to the bar floor. A group of homophones wok inn two a bar.

Shop Talk!

september 2015

| 7


The Hide Report

your global perspective

Hide Prices Stay Steady Heavy Texas Steers are firm to dollar higher. Branded steers also firm. There’s been a $2 gain in the price of Branded Heifers. Heavy Native Steers are staying steady. There is some speculation that tanners have enough hides to last them a while before they get back into the market and start buying. But that is speculation. U. S. Cattle Population Increases Cattle Buyers Weekly reported in late July that the U. S. cattle population continues to grow after 2014 arrested and eight year decline in numbers. January 1 this year saw a cattle total up 1.4% from a year ear-

lier while July 1 saw a total up 2.2% from a year earlier. USDA’s mid-year cattle inventory report revealed that the total on July 1 increased for the first time since 2006. It increased by 2.1 million head from July 1 last year. This was in large part because the number of beef cows increased by 750,000 head or 2.5% year on year and the number of beef replacement heifers increased by 300,000 head or 6.5%. This confirmed that cow-calf producers are expanding their herds by culling fewer cows and retaining more heifers, trends reflected in slaughter data and a breakdown of the type of cattle on feed. USDA expects this year’s calf crop to be 1.2% or 400,000 head larger than last year’s. Some analysts though believe this number is too low.

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98 | september 2015

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US Tannery Cited for 19 Violations After Worker Killed Federal safety officials have cited a Milwaukee tannery for 19 safety violations after inspections sparked by the death of a worker— the second fatal industrial accident at the plant in six years. D.R. Diedrich & Co., Ltd. should be fined $169,000 for the violations, officials from the Occupational Safety and Health Administration said in late July. Among the alleged violations is one OSHA categorized as willful, meaning it was committed “with intentional, knowing or voluntary disregard for the law’s requirement, or with plain indifference to employee safety and health.” Another of the citations alleges Diedrich did not use proper safety procedures on the machine where the worker was killed when a 1,500 pound steel roller disengaged. Killed in the February 1 accident was Juan M. Gonzalez, 59, of Milwaukee. He had been inspecting the bearing on a hide fleshing machine, used to separate fat from animal hides, when the roller moved and struck him in the head, according to OSHA and the Milwaukee County medical examiner. The willful violation cited by OSHA was for not using required lockout devices on a hide fleshing machine. The devices are meant to prevent unintentional operation of machines doing service and maintenance. Diedrich was cited for a similar violation on the same type of machine in 2011, an agency spokeswoman said. Other alleged violations include lack of machine guards, shortcomings in training workers on machine safety, and failure to provide proper protection to prevent workers from contacting live electrical parts.

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Brazilian Leather Exports Drop The Centre for the Brazilian Tanning Industry (CICB) has announced the figures for international trade during the first semester of the year, marked by a decline in exports. According to CICB, based on numbers released by the Secretary of International Commerce, leather exports in June 2015 totaled 196 million US dollars decreasing by 20.2% from US $246 million last year at the same time. There was also a decrease of leather exports compared to the previous month of May, with value of exports going down by 4.6% from US $206 million. CICB reported a 15.2% decline for the first semester of 2015 compared to the same period last year. According to the same source during the first period of the year the main destinations for leather exports were China (28%), Italy (16%), the United States (11%), and Hong Kong (7%). Same source indicated that leather and hides accounted for 1.3% of total exports from Brazil. Chinese Manufacturing Index Slows in July Chinese manufacturing plunged to a two-year low

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Shop Talk! september 2015

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over the weekend with the Caixin PMI registering just 47.8 and industrial output expanding lower than estimates of 6.8%. The index, which tracks activity in factories and workshops, is seen as a key barometer of the country’s economic health. A figure above 50 signals growth, while anything below indicates contraction. The figure was below the 49.4 registered in June and was the weakest reading since 47.7 in July 2013, according to previous data. The results mean that China’s year-on-year industrial production growth for July may come in lower than their current estimate of 6.8%. Industrial output expanded 6.8% in June, an acceleration from May. Julian Evans-Pritchard, China economist at Capital Economics, said that bad weather was a factor in the July PMI results. “The weak readings partly reflect temporary disruptions to factor activity as result of a number of tropical storms that hit China’s key manufacturing hubs over the first month,” he said in a report. Bogs Sales Up 18% in Q2 Weyco Group, Inc. reported sales of its Bogs footwear brand increased 18% in the second quarter ended June 30, 2015, reflecting a broadening of the brand’s product line beyond boots. Bogs sales are reported under Weyco Group’s North American Wholesale segment, where sales and licensing revenues reached $48.1 million for the second quarter, up 7% as compared to $44.8 million in the second quarter of 2014. The segment also includes the Stacy Adams and Nunn Bush brands where sales grew 12% and 9%, respectively, for the quarter, driven by strong new

product sales. Florsheim net sales declined 3% for the quarter. Weyco Group, Inc., designs and markets quality and innovative footwear for men, women, and children under a portfolio of well-recognized brand names including: Florsheim, Nunn Bush, Stacy Adams, BOGS, Rafters, and Umi. The Company’s products can be found in leading footwear, department, and specialty stores worldwide. Strong Sneaker Market Good Omen for Back-to-School Will strong mid-year sales for athletic footwear result in a positive back-to-school season? All signs point to yes, according to data collected by The NPD Group from specialty, sporting goods, chain, and department stores. From January to June 2015, athletic footwear dollar sales increased 8% in the first half of the year. Meanwhile, the average selling price of athletics footwear grew 7%. The children’s category— spurred on by the popularity of classics and cross training styles— continues to outperform men’s and women’s, with sales up 11%. This is in addition to 11% increase the category experienced during the same period one year ago. Outdoor Footwear Market See Big Sales Uptick Taking a hike may be getting more popular these days. Outdoor footwear dollar sales grew 17% in the 12 months ending June 2015 (July 2014-June 2015), a big leap from the market’s 1% growth the previous year, according to The NPD Group. “Consumers today are looking for products that reflect their values. They want products that are

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versatile and yet authentic. For outdoor footwear brands to succeed today, it’s critical for their products to strike this balance,” said Matt Powell, sports industry analyst, The NPD Group. “Many consumers, especially millennials, are not looking for the ‘one and only’ product, but rather for products that are ‘good enough’ for their needs and have multiple applications. It will be interesting to see what products manufacturers will showcase during the upcoming Outdoor Retailer Summer Market show, and how they emphasize these consumer values.” Hiking/lite hiking and cold/all-weather boots, which together comprise three-quarters of the market, both experienced a healthy lift in sales. Hiking/lite hiking grew 22% after a flat performance the previous year, while the growth in cold/all- weather boots more than doubled by 17%…. Super-Durable Leather Cable Created It’s usually a question of when, not if, the charging cable is going to start wearing around the point where the cord meets the connector. And maybe you’ll try to make it work for a little while, but sooner or later your denial will wear off and you’re going to have to drop the cash on a new one. And then the whole sad process starts over. One company is hoping to break the cycle with a leather cable that is not only tough but also aims to be the best-working cord you’ve ever bought. Esbee started out wanting to build a cord that didn’t shred or fray after a few months of use, but the company ended up completely scrapping current designs—like the one that came with your iPhone or iPad— and building a cable from scratch. Esbee’s design has two wires each for data and power (your existing cord likely has one each), and they have five layers of insulation protecting them in-

cluding an 18-strand, tin-plated copper mesh and a fire-resistant layer of thermoplastic elastomer. The mesh in most cables usually has eight strands or fewer, according to Interesting Engineering, so the Esbee has a lot of shielding even before it gets to the leather part. The cables outer layer, which was once the outer layer of something else, comes from Pakistan’s Indus Valley and comes in two different materials and seven colors. You’ll be able to get black or brown leather or red, blue, green, yellow, or pink suede, so you can go for look as classic or “fun” as you like. Building a Plane from Leather Waste While leather is used to make shoes and other accessories, leather waste can be used to make an aircraft. Scientists at Central Leather Research Institute (CLRI) have found a way to use leather solid waste to make a nano-composite material that is tough enough to make the body of a car, bike or aircraft, besides lightweight construction material, electrical switches, computer cabinets, insulation and ropes.

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september 2015

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Dust generated from buffing leather, a process to get a smooth surface on the leather, is combined with a polymer and certain nanoparticles to make the material that is almost close to metal in terms of strength. The polymer could be epoxy or synthetic rubber while the nanoparticles, which act as reinforcement, could be titanium dioxide or silicon dioxide. New Uses for Leather While wandering around the Miami Design District, a reporter was struck by the amount of leather she

Selection

Weight (lbs.)

Heavy Texas Steers 60-62 Heavy Texas Steers (Hvy) 70-72 Branded Steers 60-62 Branded Steers (Hvy) 70-72 Colorado Steers 60-62 Butt Branded Steers 60-62 Butt Branded Steers (Hvy) 70-72 Heavy Native Steers (Hvy) 70-72 Heavy Native Heifers 48-52 Branded Heifers 48-52 Heavy Native Cows 48-52 Branded Cows 48-52 Spready Dairy Cows 48-52 Native Bulls 100-110

12 | sepTember 2015

encountered. She expected it in the luxury handbags and footwear stores, but was surprised by its prevalence in the furniture shops. Leather upholstered chairs, sofas, and beds, yes, but there were also novel leather accessories, rugs, and wall coverings. There was also a kitchen covered with a leather “paint” made from pulverized leather and resin, stamped with a grain, that is waterproof and easy to clean….

June (early)

July (early)

$85-86 $90-91 $84-85 $90-91 $82-83 $93-95 $100-105 $107-109 $72-74 $72-74 $60-63 $57-62 $68-72 $77-79

$70-72 $84-87 $69-71 $86-87 $69-70 $78-80 $92-97 $90-92 $65-66 $59-64 $52-55 $50-52 $63-66 $69-72

August (early)

Price Last August (early)

$60-63 $104-105 $72-73 $116-117 $62-63 $102-104 $69-70 $114-116 $59-60 $100-101 $70-71 $107.50-108.50 $76-77 $117-118 $77-78 $118-119 $54-55 $86-88 $52-53 $84-86 $45-46 $77-79 $43-44 $65-67 $54.50-57 $87-89 $68-71 $83-88

Shop Talk!


Boot & Shoe News

PEOPLE and PRODUCTS and PLACES

More Repair Shop Participation? Yes! That would be just dandy and it’s something we’ve repeatedly requested but with almost ZERO response. None. People write in occasionally and comment that they like Shop Talk! but wish there were more “Boot & Shoe News”. We do, too! Any suggestions? We really want to hear from you about the type of stories you’d like to see more of, and, I promise you, we’ll get busy! For what it’s worth, there may be more footwear related information than it seems at first glance. In most every issue there are several items about the footwear industry in “Hide Report”. And normally we carry one or two features about people making custom footwear of some sort in every issue. Of course, there’s always relevant information in “Goods & Services” as well as “News, Notes & Queries”. So please, please, please—LET US HEAR FROM YOU!! Send us your suggestions as well as the names of shops and suppliers whom you’d like us to do a story on. And we will! Contact: Shop Talk!, P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic. net. Thanks!! Sewing Goodies If you’re needing a good source for all sorts of sewing supplies and accessories, then you need to know about SouthStar Supply. Wow! They have all sorts of needles, lubes, scissors, lights, pattern tools, spray adhesives, and even motors! They have gadgets you never even knew that you needed! Get on their mailing list: SouthStar Supply Co., P O

Box 90147, Nashville, TN 37209, (800) 288-6739, (615) 353-7000, www.southstarsupply.com. ANPIC It’s the largest footwear and leather show in North America—ANPIC. It will take place this November 5-7 in Leon, Guanajuato, Mexico, at the Poliforum, right across from the Holiday Inn! It’s a great place to either exhibit or attend. You name it, they have it— everything from lasts to leather and every finished products and components. Vendors from around the world. Details at www.anpic.com. Crazy Big Tool Sale With over 1,300 lots, we certainly have something for EVERYONE regardless of the sort of work you do. We have lovely antique pieces that would make any collector drool as well as just plain, good ole using tools that are priced to sell! So stay tuned! Sale starts October 1. Big Boot Issue!! Yeah, boy!! We’ve been working on stories for the past few months on all sorts of boot makers—big boot makers like Olathe and small custom shops. And we’re going to take all those great stories and make one BIG BOOT ISSUE—so stay tuned. Should be a pretty good one. Boot Contest is Back! Once again there will be a Boot Contest at the Roundup in Wichita Falls, TX, Oct. 2-3. Mike Vaughn will once again coordinate this popular event. So you better get started! For all the details please contact Kathy Kimmel at Kimmel Boots, 2080 County Road 304, Comanche, TX 76442, (325) 3563197, www.bootandsaddlemakertradeshow.com.

Shop Talk!

september 2015

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Soft Star Shoes: A Twinkle in Two Engineers’ Eyes How do two high-tech computer engineers make the next best career move at mid-life? They buy a children’s leather shoe business, of course. It sounds crazy, but friends and co-workers Tricia Salcido and Larkin Holavarri took over a small footwear business in Oregon ten years ago, about the time they both had started their families. Good-bye, HewlettPackard. Hello, Soft Star Shoes. Salcido takes responsibility for the decision to leave HP in 2005, taking her job sharing partner Holavarri

by Jennifer Fulford, Roving Reporter

14 | September 2015

with her. Neither regrets the 180 degree switch. Salcido was looking for a small business to run when she happened to come across Tim Oliver, working cheerfully in a funky workshop, making adorable children’s shoes from soft, colorful leather. Tricia, out strolling with her one-year-old daughter, was smitten. “I left the store with baby shoes, and I went home, and it was as if a brick had hit me between the eyes and I said, ‘This is an amazing product.’ So I went back in, I think the very next day, and approached Tim and introduced myself and asked if he would ever be in-

Photo: Trish and Larkin

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Shop Talk!

september 2015

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Baby sandal shoe with flower

terested in selling his business. And he laughed at me. Kindly. Nicely.” “I admit I did,” he says. “The first time,” she says. Several offers later, Oliver, still busy in his homey workshop, kept scratching his head about the prospect. For real? he thought. Yes, the offer was serious. Tricia didn’t want to make shoes; she wanted to market them. So she retained Tim Oliver as the designer and shoemaker. Now, ten years later, they continue to work together but on a much larger scale. They aim to sell 18,000 pairs of shoes by the end of 2015. So far this year, they’re on track to meet that goal. The company grew from about four employees to twenty-two today. Next spring, the operation will be moving to a new location, out of downtown Corvallis, OR, to a renovated roller rink twice the size in nearby Philomath, OR. The expansion—from 5,000 sq. ft. to 12,000 sq. ft.—has been two years in the works.

Tim Oliver

“We are literally crawling on top of each other,” Tricia says. “We won’t be walking on top of each other. We really are crammed in here right now.” Jana DiSanti, brand relations manager, says it’s been a company-wide effort to improve the rink, adding a mezzanine level for office space. “We’ve had a couple of ‘raise the roof parties’. We’ve actually all gone there, and we’ve had a dozen jacks set up along the perimeter of the building, and, in coordination, have actually jacked the building up two inches at a time.” Lasting Quality and Style Matte Finishes Many Colors

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16 | sepTember 2015

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Workshop Interior

Soft Star group

Soft Star Shoe creates adorable custom shoes, beginning with baby shoes sizes 0 to 12 months. About half the company’s orders are “design your own” (DYO) from the company website, which drives most sales. Co-owners Trish and Larkin decided early on that the website needed to be the main vehicle for attracting customers. The site features well-made videos that feel homespun, a weekly blog with current information about products and events, and an About Us section. The main style at Soft Star is a modern adaptation of the moccasin, minus fringe. The un-lasted design means the shoes relax with the foot, a major feature

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His and Hers Classics for toddlers

september 2015

| 17


of the company’s philosophy—that minimal footwear is best for foot development and care. The shoes are easy on the foot and on the earth. “In ’85, that was not a very popular theory,” Oliver says. “And we knew without reading anything that we wanted soft, comfortable shoes for our children. And one of the reasons we started making shoes was because there was nothing on the market.” “Until you are about 18 or 19, your bones are still hardening in your feet,” says Tricia. “What a lot of the cultural studies have shown is that when they go into countries where people are traditionally barefoot, they find fewer incidents of foot problems in adults.” Although Oliver had his hands full with kids’ shoes, adult shoes were added to the selection when Tricia and Larkin came onboard. They couldn’t ignore the demand of customers who were looking for alternatives to mainstream footwear, says DiSanti. “We have a lot of stories of customers who tried our shoes,” she says, “because they had terrible, terrible foot pain, back pain, all sorts of alignment issues, and

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they had been to an orthopedist, and they had tried orthotics, and their problems increased. And then they tried what they felt was everything, so they thought they would try nothing. It turns out nothing turned out pretty well.” Growth into adult sizes has helped the company expand. Recently, the company added a running shoe. The RunAmoc running shoe is among twenty-seven styles of shoes in the Soft Star line. Styles include soft, breathable sandals to fully lined sheepskin boots and range in price from $100 to $140 a pair. All shoes are made by hand in one big workshop room where employees, known as elves, sew on a stock of Juki’s and a few Bernina’s. The company focuses on creating an employee and family-friendly environment. Hard not to when both owners have three children apiece, ranging in age from twelve to two. Family ties are part of the company history. Tim and Jeanie Oliver started Soft Star because they wanted a home based business that allowed them to spend lots of time with their new baby girls. At one point, the Olivers lived and worked out of a revamped yellow school bus. Ah, the good old days. Their start-up story and old

Black Dash RunAmoc

photographs are posted online and contribute to the company’s cache as a down-to-earth ambassador of good, American made work. “It is something that we still strive for,” Tricia says. “Maybe it’s not so much that it’s U.S. based but that we seek responsible sources. We don’t want to contribute to making problems in the world, in terms of chemicals or the way the workers are protected or not protected doing the job. That is more of our focus right now because getting 100 % sourced in the U.S. is not necessarily a reality in the footwear industry.”

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Shop Talk!

september 2015

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Tri-Color Sheepskin Phoenix boots

Equally important is the production process. Soft Star uses moisture absorbing natural sheepskin soles. The sheepskin soles wick away moisture and also provide more cushiony protection against toys, gravel, and other objects underfoot. All the shoes are handcrafted in the states, and leather is sourced from U.S. based suppliers such as The Hide House in California.

20 | sepTember 2015

Oliver, 64, now chief quality control officer, is still scratching his head about the success of his cottage industry. Tricia, 46, marketing manager, and Larkin, 45, production manager, have a lot more in common with Oliver than first impressions might suggest. None of them had any background in shoes, shoe design, or shoemaking before they entered the market. As the ad-

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age goes, determination is sometimes more important than experience. Soft Star Shoes can be found online at www.SoftStarShoes.com. To contact the company, email elves@softstarshoes.com. Until the company moves in the spring of 2016 to Philomath, OR, you can tour the facility at 521 SW Second St., #201, Corvallis, OR, 97333, or call (541) 753-5845 or (866) 763-2525.

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september 2015

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D. W. rommer II: Beaver State Bootmaker by Gene Fowler

I

n 1938, in a cave in Central Oregon, archeologists found seventy-five sagebrush bark sandals beneath a layer of volcanic ash from Mount Mazama. After radiocarbon testing determined the footwear to be somewhere in the vicinity of 10,000 years old, historians began referring to the cave as the world's oldest known shoemaker's shop. Not far from the workshop of that nameless, ancient craftsman, another master shoe and bootmaker labors in his own shop in Redmond, OR, feeling a strong connection to his prehistoric brethren. D.W. Frommer, II says he makes bespoke footwear not only for his customers but also for the artisans who have gone before him, the “dead guys” he sometimes senses looking over his shoulder as he works. “I even have internal dialogs with them,” the bootmaker says. Any cosmic cordwainers keeping an eye on him are especially proud of their worldly protege this year as D.W. just won the Will Rogers Bootmaker of the Year Award from the Academy of Western Artists. When complimented on the honor, D.W. says it's nice to be recognized by one's peers, but he is also quick to put such things in perspective. “Back in the 1930s,” the bootmaker explains, “a cowboy had won the bull riding competition at the National Finals Rodeo. When a newspaperman congratulated him 22 | september 2015

by pointing out that he had beaten a lot of good cowboys, the bull rider replied, 'You misunderstand, friend. It's not the other riders we compete against. It's the bull.' ” D.W. adds that the same rules apply to making boots. “You're mastering yourself. You're competing against your tools and leather, your techniques, your greed and impatience. Whatever you're doing, you've got to beat the bull.” At 69 and now in semi-retirement, D.W. has been beating the bull for more than forty years. Ironically, a high school aptitude test had indicated that

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he should not pursue any profession that involved a significant amount of working with his hands. Raised in Detroit, Missouri, and Minnesota with a father who helped develop a technique for extracting pure iron ore from low grade ore while working for the U.S. Bureau of Mines, D.W. spent time as a student at the University of Minnesota and as an army paratrooper in Vietnam before heading west to the Beaver State with his young bride Randee.

The old cowboy turned out to be Frank Finch. “He'd grown up in Montana and served in the horse army,” Frommer continues. “In 1934 he'd won the wild horse racing championship at Madison Square Garden. So I started working for him at his saddle shop and horse ranch in the Willamette Valley. I'd clean out the stalls and get an hour or two of saddle training.”

Feeling a “deep and abiding sense of obligation to pass on the skills and traditions,” D.W. has published three books, created instructional videos, and offers three-week intensive classes in boot and shoe making. See his website, www. bootmaker.com, for details.

His interest in leather work initially whetted by a wallet making kit he had received as a child, D.W. was working in a Western store in Harrisburg, OR, when he met his first mentor. “A woman had brought in a busted saddle,” Frommer recalls, “and this old boy came walkin' in who walked like John Wayne. I didn't know anything about saddles, so he looked at it and said the tree was broken and helped me fix it.”

A gift from Finch inspired D.W. to make his first pair of boots. “Frank had bought a pair of lace up cowboy boots. They were black kangaroo with red roses and said FINCH in white by the ankles, made by the Hyer Boot Company of Olathe, KS. I reconditioned the boots, studied how they were constructed, and pretty soon got the idea to try and make some myself. Later, I donated Frank's boots to the National Cowboy Hall of Fame

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and Museum in Oklahoma City.” (You can see a photo of the boots in the book 100 Years of Western Wear by Tyler Beard.) The two-piece boot migrated to the U.S. before and after the Civil War, but by 1900, adds Frommer, the four-piece Dress Wellington, ancestor of today's cowboy boot, had become more common. D.W.'s boots have generally been made in one of five styles: the classic Dress Wellington; the Full Wellington, also called the Torrerjo; the Tejas, a three-piece backstrap boot; and two styles of lace-up or packer boots. Frommer boots are crafted for work, dress, or show, and range in height from peewees to stovepipes. Images of boots made from calfskin, alligator, snakeskin, elephant, stingray, kangaroo, water buffalo, and ostrich that were shown at the Academy of Western Artists award ceremony in Irving, TX, revealed a rainbow of colors and a storybook of designs featuring creative inlays and stitching. You can see one example of Frommer's work at the Gene Autry National Center of the American West

in Los Angeles. In 1988, the museum commissioned D.W. to create a pair of black leather Torrerjo style boots with squared toes and stacked heels. The boots feature pull straps and green stitched scroll designs on French calf uppers. Like most boot makers, D.W. has been asked to create about every design under the sun and moon.

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“You can't do everything people want you to do,” he adds, “but I enjoy the challenge. The wife of a Silicon Valley computer mogul wanted flamingoes in a swamp on her boots. We had to stitch rather than inlay the cattails and reeds in the swamp.” Randee Frommer often assists with the stitching after D.W. has created the design. “Some of my favorite pieces have been elaborate rose inlays that are barely held underneath the leather. The effect is something like a stained glass window.” For a boot maker who is uncomfortable being called an artist (preferring craftsman or artisan), D.W. deploys some heady lingo, talking about things like “the importance of negative space” in the execution of a boot's construction and “the way symmetry and organic shapes resonate with something deep within the human psyche.” Explaining his preference for quality over quantity, he often cites aesthete extraordinaire Oscar Wilde: “Everything popular is wrong.” Referring to the relative isolation of his location in the small town of Redmond in rural Oregon, he also describes himself as “something of a Maytag repairman” in the boot making world, meaning that he hasn't had a huge amount of contact with peer craftsmen through the years. A self-described “persnickety old cobbler,” D.W. has studied the history of boot and shoe making extensively. “I'm trying to preserve what's left of a 600 to 800 year old tradition,” he explains. And though he makes innovations to those traditions—for instance, developing a way to use upholstery fabric for two-layer boot pulls instead of the silk and wool that was big from the 1920s to the

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1940s but hard to come by now—he largely sticks to the tried-and-true methods prescribed in such old school mandates as London's Great Leather Act of 1604. And though he may feel a bit like the lonely Maytag repairman, he discusses such matters in great detail on the Crispin Colloquy (www.thehcc.org/ forum), the online discussion forum of The Honourable Cordwainers Company, a nonprofit headquar-

tered in Virginia and dedicated to “promoting the study, practise, interpretation and preservation of historical shoemaking and allied trades." As a result, D.W.'s mantra for boot making has long been “No Plastic, No Paper, No Nails!” And he expounded on the last of the three prohibitions in a cowboy poem found on his website.

For Want of a...Nail?

My story’s one that goes back a ways, bout an Oregon buckaroo. Back when we was still runnin’ ‘em to market in Elko and Winnemucca too. Now Oxbow Bob craved a new pair of boots when he come off the trail For three long months he’d favored the left on account of a wayward nail. He’d pointed the herd from the old "P" Ranch to where the Humbolt river flows. There’s a bootshop down on mainstreet and that’s where Oxbow goes. So he eases into the settee and wrenches off a boot His socks are black from a winter back when he cleaned the lantern soot. Now a smell like ancient mummies arose from the tattered wraps And it makes the master stagger and a customer collapse. Bob, he never notices the gentlefolk streamin’ out the door, But braces his back for the other boot and leans into the chore. His muscles knot, his face turns red and his eyes begin to swell. He curses the damned old stinker in words I dare not tell. But it’s the left boot boys, that won’t come off and when all is said and done, That nail is deep in Oxbow’s flesh - he and the boot are one. Now the master knows his duty and approaches with a sigh, He’s seen this problem many times and he knows the reason why. "That boot will have to be cut off," he says, "and maybe a part of yore heel, Yer lucky you didn’t loose the leg to that chunk of rusty steel!" Now Bob, he’s got a new nickname, the hands all call him Tilt. And Francine, down at Mona’s, thinks he oughta have a bootheel built That will straighten up his stature and allow old Bob to hold her, As they waltz around the dance floor, without his chin hooked on her shoulder. So beware of a boot that’s made with nails, what you want is the hardwood peg, At least if it lodges itself in your heel, you’ll have the start of a wooden leg. Shop Talk!

For a moving-picture peek into D.W. Frommer's bootmaking shop, check out Oregon Public Broadcasting's report on him: http:// www.opb.org/television/programs/artbeat/segment/dw

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Goods & Services INVENTORY and EQUIPMENT and UPDATES

Got a new product? Maybe something on sale? Then please drop us a line! That means FREE publicity for you and your company so that’s a pretty good deal. Please contact: Shop Talk!, P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net. Now before we get going, let me mention that there’s a nice review of this summer’s Harness Makers’ Get-Together in this issue so quite a few interesting products and their suppliers are included—almost as good as being there! So please give that story a good read and you just might see some things that you’d enjoy knowing out! Only in Shop Talk! Always first with the news! *Have you ever needed a handy weight to keep your material in place? Could be leather, could be vinyl, could be cloth. Well, the folks at SouthStar Supply have flat steel weights with handles from 10” to 60” long! Handy! You might want a couple. When it comes to scissors, SouthStar has about any make and style you can think of—left or right. And sharpening tools and machines. Keep those blades sharp. If you cut a lot of light weight material like chap leather or cloth, then you need to get a rotary knife. Wow—they really work and are so fast. Need a tagging gun and tags? Guess who has them along with all sorts of other doodads and gizmos for anyone who runs a sewing operation. So get on their mailing list! They even have motors for sewing machines. Contact: SouthStar Supply Co., P O Box 90147, Nashville, TN 37209, (800) 288-6739, (615) 3537000, www.southstarsupply.com. *It seems that Vicar International is going to start distributing products made by SEM Products which makes, among other things, refinishing products for leather, vinyl, and plastic. Get all the details by

28 | sepTember 2015

calling Vicar at (800) 526-6997. Vicar is located in Union, NJ. *Here’s a company you might want to either SELL to or buy from. They say they sell full upholstery hides so they probably actually need suppliers for that. They also wholesale micro suedes, faux leathers, and fabrics for the buggy trade. That would be Heartland Fabrics at 5355 W 400 S, Topeka, IN 46571, (574) 642-1273, fax (260) 593-2754. Give them a call! *It seems that Weaver Leather in Mt. Hope, OH, has been busy developing extensive lines of leather products—protective cream, mold and stain remover, edge paint, dyes, glue, degreaser, cleaners, conditioners, etc. Give then a call and get a full list. This is the Master Leather Care line of products, formulated in Italy. These are products you can use yourself as well as stock for resale. Call (800) 932-8371 or visit shop.weaverleather. com. *Here is a little item from Eberly Coach Works— their main warehouse is at 2935 Bells Chapel Rd., Trenton, KY 42286, (270) 265-0028. It’s a stainless steel Hydem Welt Tip— It measures 11/16” x 15/16” and covers only one side of strap. It’s unclear exactly how this piece of hardware is used in buggy work. Who knows—some clever person might come up with an application for this welt tip in saddle or harness work. Or somewhere. Now let us hear from YOU!! And thanks.

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Leather Worker of the Month! Shop Talk! goes completely international this month and nominates Stan Groff of High River, Alberta, Canada, as its Leather Worker of the Month!! Congrats, Stan! Stan only started doing leather work in the past few months. For years he herded elk and moose in northern Canada and then worked for a spell as croupier in several casinos. These are his very first efforts as a leather worker—the kid has potential!

Pictured Right: Here’s a Zero Emissions Saddle that Stan designed with the lithium batteries hidden in the buck in rolls. As you can see in the background, Stan is recharging this saddle and getting it ready to ride.

Pictured Left: Here’s a lovely leather container that Stan carved, using nothing more than a chain saw file and comb.

Pictured Right: Here’s an album that Stan did for a couple celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary. You can’t really tell it from the picture but the album is only 1 ½” x 1 ½”. Since the couple didn’t have that many happy memories they figured a small album would be adequate.

So let’s hear it for Stan who will be getting a check from Shop Talk! for $49.94 (US) and a free year’s subscription. I’m sure Stan’s family is very proud of him. You can contact Stan Groff at Box 5096, High River, Alberta, Canada T1V 1M3, (403) 6527190. Shop Talk!

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The high and Low of Show Chaps

by Nick Pernokas, International Correspondent

O

ne of the best places to get the lowdown on show chaps is at the National Reining Horse Association Futurity in Oklahoma City. Every contestant is wearing a pair, and, as a result, many vendors are selling them; from off the rack to custom. I was able to visit with two excellent custom chap makers who were there this year and gain some insight into the new looks for a traditional piece of equipment. Dave Hack and Nancy Voeltz-Cutbirth have different backgrounds which influence the products they produce. Both make chaps that are in demand, though, by professionals and non-pros alike. Dave Hack, of Dave Hack's Custom Chaps, is from Star, ID, and has been making chaps for a living since 1988, but he made his first pair in the 1970's in Severe's Saddle Shop in Pendleton, OR. "I wanted Duff to make me a pair," laughs Dave. Duff Severe showed him where the patterns where, where the leather was, and told him that for $40 he

Dave Hack made a living for many years making chinks like the old pair in the center for working cowboys in the Northeast. The pair on either side demonstrate how his work has changed to suit his newer customers.

could build his own. That first pair of chinks became a foundation that would serve Dave well, later, when he needed it. Dave cowboyed in Eastern Oregon. Saddle horses and car wrecks took their toll over the years, including his neck and his back being broken twice. By 1988 Dave was in Boise, ID, and wanting a job that would be easier on his body so he began to make chinks for working cowboys. He told them that if they bought a pair, they could bring them back the next year, and he would exchange them for another new pair. Not only did this build his business but Dave had a market for the used ones. He also studied them to see what the cowboys liked and didn't like. This market research has helped Dave constantly to improve his work. "If you listen to the guys that wear them all the time, that's how you learn," says Dave. "It's the same thing with show horse chaps which is what I mainly build now." For the last ten years Dave has built primarily shotgun

30 | september 2015

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chaps for show competitors. A majority of his clients are women. Dave says that the biggest trick to building show shotguns is having a pattern that you can work with and being able to take the twist out of the legs. The chaps have a slightly different angle than chinks do. One thing that further complicates show chaps is the change in jean styles over the years. Women's waists have gotten lower. The crotch of the chaps needs to go up which sounds strange, but, when a rider sits on a horse, they have to be able to push the chap down with their crotch. If the chap rides up, then the belt goes up above a low rise jean which creates a bad look as well as discomfort for the rider. The crotch is basically filled in while the belt stays in the same place. Horse show riders also favor light 1 ½ to 3 oz. leather for closer feel. To compensate for this, Dave adds extra fringe and cuffs to give them more weight on the outside of the leg so that they hang better. The extra fringe also looks good. It should follow the outside seam of the jeans. Dave's chaps are all top grain leather with a majority having the smooth side out. The top grain has a naked finish which provides a little grip and is easy to take care of. Rough out chaps used to be more popular,

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Dave Hack take’s a customer’s order during the NRHA Reining Futurity.

but most of the leather was tanned with a shiny finish that was hard to stay in the saddle with. The cowboys used to like the smooth leather on the inside because it moved on their legs. With the rough outside in, it just takes a little time to break it in, and then you get that same feel. Dave takes a lot of orders at shows, and he measures like most chap makers do. He gets the inseam, out seam, upper thigh, lower thigh, knee, and boot top. Dave doesn't need them to sit in a saddle to do it. The drop over the heel should be 2- 3” below the boot heel as opposed to a working cowboy's pair of chaps that would be an 1” off the ground. "Everybody's wearing the same chap. They've also gotten away from the real tight ones. The reined cow horse people, the cutters, and the reiners are all wearing the same style. The days of the batwings are pretty much done for a while." Dave comments that the amount of decoration can vary and adds a lot of individuality to the chaps. Most of the cowboys seem to stick with a little buck stitching which has become popular while the women will dress them up even more with silver and studs. Layers of fringe can be added in different colors and even twisted, and Dave uses from two to six layers. Tooled belts are also an option. Dave is set up to build chaps at the show, and, during the NRHA Futurity, he estimated that he would build

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september 2015

| 31


The belt on the right pair of chaps was carved by Dave. The pair on the left have Western pictures burned into the leather. They also show his use of spots and double twisted fringe on the leg.

about fifteen pair. Dave's waiting time for chaps is about three months, and many customers are picking up previously ordered leggings. At the show he works both out of Avila's Pro Shop and also in his "Chap Wagon" which is a 40’ gooseneck that is half leather shop and half living quarters. Dave's show chaps start at $500. Nancy Voeltz-Cutbirth of Springfield, MO, went to school in Dallas, TX, at the Apparel Mart and Trade Center where she learned how to draft and make patterns. She could sketch the clothing that she wanted to make and then produce it. "It was high fashion design, but chaps are basically the same thing," says Nancy. Nancy also showed horses. She came up through the ranks of the POA's and Appaloosas with her family, and, in the Eighties, she showed Western pleasure horses. Later she took up riding reining horses when she became bored with the pleasure horses. She married a reining horse trainer, Randy Cutbirth, and became immersed in the world of reining horses. According to Nancy, "Horses are the only thing that have always held my attention." For twenty-five years Nancy put her fashion background to work designing horse show outfits from top to bottom. She made jackets and vests while dying hats and gloves to match. She would design and measure for chaps and then have Bob's Western Wear in Scottsdale

32 | sepTember 2015

Dave brings a variety of chaps to the shows he attends to show folks what’s available.

assemble them for her. Anyone who remembers country star Lynn Anderson showing horses will remember some of the outfits that Nancy made for her. However, after Nancy married it became harder to have time to make complete outfits so she began to concentrate on chaps. Her husband wore her chaps as did their friends and customers. She could take a briefcase to a reining and do a lot of business while she was still able to enjoy the horses. Today she’s a busy woman and has all of her own machinery to produce chaps. She does all of her own measuring and cutting. Two leather toolers, Clint Haverty and Gary Day, do her tops and belts, and there are three silversmiths who make the trim, but she remains the only person in her shop. "I'm a public person but I also like to go in my shop by myself where it's quiet," says Nancy. "I take around twenty-five measurements and I can't think and put it all together when there's a lot of noise and confusion." Because she can tell what a customer is trying to say about what they want because of her experience showing, Nancy has customers worldwide and a loyal following. Nancy feels that a few older cowboy types are uncomfortable getting chaps from a woman and that's okay. There is enough business to go around. Over the years Nancy has seen styles change. In the Eighties she made many shotgun chaps out of

Shop Talk!


Nancy puts a spur slot in the back of her chaps.

ultrasuede so that she could match outfits for women. Ultrasuede would slip, though, and the problem would be worse for the riders who used their legs more. Today all of her chaps are made from top grain leather. She sells a lot of slick out shotgun chaps to the cow horse people and rough out chaps to the reiners. Nancy wants her chaps to fit at the waist. You should just see a shirt and then the top of the chaps; not the jeans and not the belt. She feels that a clean fit and look is important, and that you should wear a little higher jean in the show pen than the low, low jeans. The top of the leg should be tight to prevent gapping around the waist or in the front rise part. Nancy fits them fairly tight going all the way down the legs. She finds that some of the reiners and cow horse people like them a little shorter, with a 2” drop, so they only have to roll them once when they're walking around the stalls. The pleasure horse people want them longer. Nancy will add a 4” drop to the out seam for Western pleasure chaps. The inside drop is a little less. When the leg is bent some of this drop will rise. She also has added a

Nancy stays busy in her booth during the NRHA Reining Futurity. Her booth is full of posters of her clients performing at many of the large shows in the chaps she’s made for them.

slot for the spur shank to come through the back of the leg when the leg is zipped all the way down. That’s a nice touch that people appreciate. Nancy feels that the fringe should go down the leg between the side and the back of the leg. She also does many chaps with double fringe. Nancy has developed a sense of how to adjust the cut of

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september 2015

| 33


Getting measured for a pair of chaps can be a group experience.

the leg for the chap and fringe to hang correctly. For example, on someone with bow legs, she might cut the leg further to the back. The weight and style of the person's jeans must also be taken into consideration. She makes the chaps for the person though, not the jeans.

Nancy's base price for show chaps is $550.00. Dave Hack can be reached at (208) 286-7075, or on Facebook. Nancy Voeltz-Cutbirth can be reached at (417) 425-9305, Facebook, or www.chapsbynancy.com.

"A good fitting show chap should fit so that your buns hang over the top of the leg." Nancy can provide a lot of high end trim, and she brings a selection of some to the shows for customers to look at. Exotic leathers and inlaid colors can be added. For the last ten years spots down the legs have been popular. These are usually black or silver, but Nancy also can use copper or pewter colored ones. She likes being creative and tries to make everyone's chaps a little bit different. Nancy is happy when her customer is happy. "I'm not a salesman. I want the product to sell itself. I design for me, what I want to show with. I guess it comes from almost being selfish and wanting something a little different for myself. That's where my designs come from." Nancy explains that when the customer feels that they are wearing something unique but still appropriate for the show arena, it can boost their confidence and that’s very important. They trust Nancy to know how to produce that look and feel. "I enjoy what I do, but I don't want nine to five store hours. This is more artsy."

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Nancy brings a lot of her fashion design background to her chap making.

Shop Talk!


Chuck Pinnell : Mr Chaps by Nick Pernokas International Correspondent

Chuck Pinnell enjoys working with his customers in leather, silver, and metals to realize their visions. In this way he considers himself a designer who works in leather. Almost everything is done in house with a staff of five. Chuck even casts his own buckles for his bags using the lost wax method. "I'm blessed to have such a multi-talented staff," says Chuck. Although Pinnell Custom Leather produces briefcases, bags, and meticulously crafted gift items, they are well known for their schooling chaps and half chaps. This might be because a large percentage of their clientele competes on the hunter-jumper circuit. "They know me and I know them." Chuck sets up a booth at many national and international competitions which is how he maintains his customer base. Ninetyfive percent of his business is custom orders from these folks. "The frustrating thing about what we do is that we want to please our customers. Sometimes we don't sleep at night worrying about how to make sure every single person's want is met." Chuck began in the leather business in a moccasin shop in Colorado in 1974. He learned old world construction techniques and discipline; later he worked for the leather shop in Colonial Williamsburg. With only natural light or candlelight, even the leather coach suspensions were sewn by hand. In 1977 Chuck went into business on his own. Today, at Pinnell Custom Leather in Crozet, VA, Chuck produces a lot of half chaps which just cover the lower leg of the rider. Now that they are legal to show in, many jumpers are having them customized with silver and personalized. This market has eclipsed schooling chaps in the hunter-jumper market. Chucks fit so well that when they are worn over a paddock boot, with a spur, it is nearly impossible to tell that the rider isn't wearing a real boot. "We love what we do, and who we're doing it for." To find out about what Chuck does, you can check out www.pinnellcustomleather.com or call (434) 823-9800. Shop Talk! september 2015

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Getting Together This Summer in Il inois by Dan Preston, Editor

T

he weather this year at the annual Harness Makers’ Get-Together was just made to order. There weren’t any of the heavy rains that the mid-west had experienced earlier in the summer, the temperature was bearable, and there was a nice breeze blowing most of the time! How pleasant. And the people were wonderful—well, I guess most of them were. Except a certain contingent from across the river and over the mountains in Kentucky. I guess there’s a Mose Miller in most every community but this Mose comes from around Columbia, KY, and he doesn’t so much have a family as he does a herd or a clan or an entire congregation of hardy looking farm boys and they all seemed to be carrying some sort of agricultural implement like rakes and hoes and hammers and sharp looking scythes as they menacingly surrounded this reporter. The first words out of Mose’s mouth were, “Where’s my feathers!” To which I replied completely bewildered, “What feathers, sir?” “The 150 lbs. of horse feathers that you said I had won in Shop Talk! Are you welshing out on me, mister? ‘Cause if you is, my boys just might be able to help jog that memory of yours.” That’s when one of Mose’s boys gently tapped the side of my head with a large wrench. Tap, tap. “Oh, THOSE horse feathers! Right! Sure thing! I got them back at the office and as soon as I get back I’ll be shipping out your way, Mr. Miller, sir. I was goin’ to bring them with me but they just wouldn’t fit into the

36 | september 2015 37

Here’s a fellow who seemed to be having all sorts of communication problems and kept asking people who were speaking to him, “Can you repeat that?”

There were some new faces at the Get-Together this year like J. W. Bailey from J. W. Bailey Saddlery and what a talented guy—

Shop Talk!


little rental car! Sure thing—I’ve got them all boxed up and ready to go!!!” “You better,” Mose said with a certain amount of disgust. “Come on, boys!” he said to his clan, and off they went. I would not be exaggerating when I tell you that this reporter sighed an immense sigh of undisguised relief. Fortunately, most of the other folks in Arthur were a bit more kindly disposed. Both Mr. and Mrs. Arkansas Hillbilly were there. Mr. was looking fat and sassy and was holding forth as usual, in love with the sound of his own dulcet voice. Mrs. Hillbilly had heart surgery about a year and a half ago and is looking just great. She’s been impatient with the rate of recovery but a year and a half is pretty normal! How she puts up with Mr. is anyone’s guess. I’d shoot him and mount his head on the wall in the den.

Doc makes what he calls “HogGaiters” which are made with waterproof leather he gets from S. B. Foot. His HogGaiters are for folks who ride motorcycles and sell from $150 to $200, depending what you’d like done.

CLASSIFIEDAds REALLY WORK $26.50 FOR THE FIRST 20 WORDS

Here’s a close-up of the life-size masks that J. W. makes—

! W E

N These masks are made from 2/3 oz. veg. Horsehair is used and the wolf eyes come from a taxidermist. J. W. originally forms a face out of clay and then molds the wet leather to it. Once done he fills in the void in the back with a solid foam. And all for $300—cheap!!!

Here’s J. W.’s buddy, Doc Underwood:

Step-by-Step Instructions for 2 Welted Sheaths

Glossary of Terms and Basic Techniques 300 photos & diagrams 144 pp.

2499

$

+S&H

Order Today! Proleptic, Inc. • P.O. Box 17817 • Asheville, NC 28816 828-505-8474 • Fax 828-505-8476 • www.proleptic.net

Shop Talk! september 2015

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Nice work—they need a distributor!! Dick was set up the day before the meeting since exhibitors were encouraged to come early and display their products on both days of the Get-Together rather than just on the second.

This handsome guy is Dick Rohan who owns K & R Mercantile along with Kathy Cieszki in Muskego, WI.

This big fellow is Jeremy Thoene who is the new Sales Manager at Hermann Oak, replacing Lee Rottmann who retired this past spring. Lee—we’ll miss you! Jeremy was over the Finishing Dept. and has been with Hermann Oak in different capacities for ten years, so he knows his leather!

Here are some of the stunning cases and bags that Dick and Kathy make:

There wasn’t a big crowd at the auction the first day but prices really did seem to hold and there was a nice selection of items for sale. The overall quality of the consignments seemed a little better than what you often see at auctions. There were two rings going hard all day long to about 4:30 pm or so. Leather continued to fetch a high price - with Hermann Oak chestnut English bridle selling for $125-140 a side and Old World Harness for $150/side.

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Shop Talk!


Shop Talk!

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Here’s a new collar and a new sweeny size from the folks at Brodhead Collar— And here’s that good lookin’ Bob Kovar up a ladder without a tree. He’s got a twostory arrangement in the back of that big truck of his which is pretty handy.

Bob got a call from his son Bobby while at the Get-Together and learned that NASA, the space agency, had just bought two Cowboy 4500’s from Toledo Sewing—well done! NASA will be using Bob’s machines to sew heavy insulation.

40 | sepTember 2015

This new collar is called the “Old Style Adjustable”— sizes 22-24. It’s a farm style collar and it’s being offered with a different size sweeny which is called the “Kurtz Sweeny” and was designed for horses with thick necks or sore necks.

Shop Talk!


46

Years of Get-Togethers

1970 1971 1972 Here’s a real small 1973 12” collar made 1974 by Knepp Collar: 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 1983 1984 And they also make sturdy leather carpenter’s aprons, 1985 which you need to buy and have in your shop—they’ll 1986 sell! You might not have time to make them up so why 1987 not buy a couple sets from Knepp? If you got ‘em, they’ll sell. 1988 1989 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 Shop Talk! 2015 Shop Talk

J.H. Bowman & Sons, Millersburg, OH Arthur Collar Shop, Arthur, IL Eli R. Stoltzfus, Intercourse, PA Bowman’s Harness Shop, Shipshewana, IN Miller’s Harness Shop, Mesopotamia, OH Dan Zehr, Newton, Ontario, Canada Raber’s Harness Shop, Millersburg, OH Ivan Hostetler, Nappanee, IN Arthur Collar Shop, Arthur, IL Beiler’s Harness Shop, Leola, PA Miller’s Harness Shop, Burton, OH Schutz Brothers, N. Manchester, IN J. H. Bowman & Sons, Millersburg, OH Mast Harness Shop, Arthur, IL Smucker’s Harness Shop, Churchtown, PA Jelloway Harness Shop, Danville, OH Black Rock Harness Shop, Mi intown, PA Miller’s Harness Shop, Burton, OH Eash Harness Shop, Topeka, IN Hostetler Harness Shop, Arthur, IL Weaver Leather, Mt. Hope, OH Beiler’s Mfg. & Supply, Leola PA Al’s Harness Shop, Shipshewana, IN Coblentz Collar, Millersburg, OH Mast Harness Shop, Arthur IL Lititz Harness Shop, Lititz, PA Valley Harness Shop, Fredericksburg, OH Bluegrass Leather, Liberty, KY Clinton Harness Shop, Goshen, IN N & A Harness Shop, Millersburg, OH Fisher’s Harness Shop, Ronks, PA Mast Harness Shop, Arthur, IL Byler’s Harness Shop, Middle eld OH G & M Enterprises, Napanee, IN Yonie’s Harness Shop, Honeybrook, PA Beachy’s Nylon Harness Shop, Baltic, OH L-n-L Harness Shop, Grabill, IN Peach Lane Harness Shop, Ronks, PA Fairview Country Sales, Millersburg, OH Miller’s Wholesale Harness, Columbia, KY Allen’s Leather Shop, Vestaburg, MI Eli Miller’s Leather Shop & Country Store Mesopotaia, OH Chupp Bros. Wholesale, Shipshewana, IN Hilltop Tack Supply, Rebersburg, PA Chupp Blacksmith, Fredericksburg, OH Miller's Harnessseptember & Repair, Arthur, IL 2015 | 41

!


Someone who’s always a pleasure to visit with is Andy Troyer at Troyer’s Rope and Troyer’s Bird’s Paradise. Andy and his family run two businesses and things are booming! The rope part had its best numbers ever this past March and the bird part had its best numbers this past April. Great news! But Andy made an interesting comment about business growth: “There’s more to it than writing an invoice.” So true! By that Andy means—you need inventory and you need to be able to ship promptly. Most importantly, you need to give your customers professional service.

The important thing to remember is that Troyer’s makes its own rope—they don’t just buy and resell. NO! They make their rope at their plant in Pennsylvania. Here’s one of those real nice hand cranked splitters refurbished and retrofitted by Eli Schlabach at Landis Sales & Service.

Eli was at the auction and helping out behind the scenes along with sons Merle and Kenneth who now owns DayStar Systems which really do work in small shops,

42 | September 2015

Shop Talk!


medium size shops, and very large warehouses. Let the light shine! If you’re looking for a good wholesale supplier of nylon webbing in different widths, weights, and colors, look no further than Mud Creek Leather. They also have poly webbing and bonded nylon thread in weights from 92 to 346! Mose Beachy’s son hand makes bull whips in both leather and nylon—

They sure enough snap, crackle, and POP! Other suppliers at the Get-Together this year included Chupp Brothers Wholesale. They have a 62 pp. catalog just full of hardware, collars, harness parts, barn supplies, finished goods, lots and lots of leather, and more. They’re good people to know about. Your wholesale source for waist belts, different styles of wallets, handbags, and door hangers is Brenneman’s Leather Goods. Of course, N & A Harness was there with all their new machines for working coated webbing and nylon. You name it—punches, splitting machines, staplers, etc. Mid-River makes neoprene collar pads, harness pads, and blankets. Lots of sizes, styles, and colors. R. J. Matthews had about any sort of horse health care product you can think at the Get-Together. They carry dozens of different brand names. Hillside Harness Hardware had catalogs available which now weigh in over 150 pages—that’s huge! They make leather goods for both Western and English riding in addition to all the hardware they carry including fine

a r n H e s A s Shop d n a N Request your Catalog today!

6009 Township Road 419 • Millersburg, OH 44654 • Voice Mail (330) 893-1024 • Fax (330) 893-0112 Shop Talk!

september 2015

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harness hardware—not something that many folks have available. Lots of halters in both nylon and leather. And there were many other excellent wholesale vendors in Arthur such as BioThane, Beiler’s Mfg., Thoroughbred Leather, Chupp Blacksmith, Miller’s Wholesale Harness, and Weaver Leather—and others! It was a treat to see them all. That’s pretty much it for the 46th Annual Harness Maker’s Get-Together. Next year, the Get-Together will be in Pennsylvania. The 47th Get-Together will be held at Keystone Harness & Tack in Drewmore, PA, on the 3rd Friday in July. Call (717) 284-4565.

An Amish tractor.

The auction will be held the day before at Windy Knoll Sewing in Nottingham, PA, (717) 529-7506. Andy Troyer from Troyer’s Rope will be hosting a knot and rope making seminar at Keystone Harness on Friday. Kevin Yoder is the Head of the Harness Committee and may be reached at (888) 259-9448. Many thanks to Miller’s Harness & Repair for hosting this year’s event. Also many thanks to BioThane for once again paying for the rental of all the tents—thank you, Ethan!

Custommade Knives & Tools for Leatherworkers

■ New Handles Danny Repair ■◉Sharpen Round Knives ◉ Stitch Groovers Marlin ◉ Custommade Tools Knives ◉ Bench Knives

(254) 842- 5405

◉ Stock Tools ◉ Old Blades Reshaped

1550 County Road 207 ■ Blanket, TX 76432

44 | September 2015

Sew What Supplies?!

400 Travis Ln., Unit 28, Waukesha, WI 53189 (800) 390-9503

Zippers YKK Hook & Loop Thread Webbing trucker tiedown nylon halter polypro Shock Cord/Cording  

Nylon Fabrics cordura Elastic pack cloth Fiebing Products oxford cloth Grommets Vinyl Coated Mesh Hardware Vinyl Coated Truck metal Tarp plastic Imitation Sheepskin 

www.sewwhatsupplies.com

Shop Talk!


Contact Information: Beachy’s Nylon Harness 2815 Township Road 182 Baltic, OH 43804 (330) 897-1350 BioThane 34655 Mills Rd. N. Ridgeville, OH 44039 (800) 487-2358

Chupp Brothers Wholesale 890 S. Van Buren St. Shipshewana, IN 46565 (260) 499-0525

J. W. Bailey Saddlery 11984 Price St. Petersburg, IL 62675 (217) 303-3674

Mud Creek Leather 9415 W 300 S Topeka, IN 46571 (260) 593-0044

DayStar Systems 14226 Hwy 4 Campbell Hill, IL 62916 (618) 426-1868

Jeremy Thoene Hermann Oak Leather 4050 First St. St. Louis, MO 63147 (800) 325-7950

N & A Harness 6009 Township Road 419 Millersburg, OH 44654 (330) 893-1024

Dick Rohan K & R Mercantile Bob Kovar W181 S 8290 Pioneer Dr. Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines Muskego, WI 53150 3631 Marine Rd. (262) 679-3735 Toledo, OH 43609 (866) 362-7397 Doc Underwood 26 Circle Dr. Brenneman’s Leather Goods Springfield, IL 62703 938 Springs Rd. (217) 585-1500 Springs, PA 15562 (814) 662-4027 Hillside Harness Hdw. 4205 Township Road 629 Brodhead Collar Shop Millersburg, OH 44654 17607 200th St. (330) 893-1510 Bloomfield, IA 52537 (515) 830-2596

Knepp Collar 877 E 400 N Montgomery, IN 47558 (812) 486-2862

R. J. Mathews Co. 2780 Richville Dr., SE Massillon, OH 44646 (800) 578-9234

Landis Sales & Service 115 E County Road 500 N Arthur, IL 61911 (217) 543-3464

S.B. Foot Tanning Co. 805 Bench Street Red Wing, MN 55066 651-388-1767

Mid-River Sales 10348 County Road 18 Middlebury, IN 46540 (574) 825-9253 ext. 1

Troyer’s Rope Co. 20785 Morris Rd. Conneautville, PA 16406 (800) 872-0103

Shop Talk!

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Making a Knife Sheath We recently got this nice how-to piece from our long-time friend and saddle maker George Hast—thank you, George! Nice work. Here’s what George had to say: I have a customer who is a twelve year Army veteran who wanted me to make a knife sheath for him with a rooster carved into it which reminded George’s customer of the time he spent on his grandparent’s farm. Good enough. The knife has a 9” blade so he needed something made out of heavy 10/11 oz. veg. line and formed the sheath over the heavy blade which I wrapped in a plastic wrap so it would not come in contact with the wet leather. The leather is placed flat with the grain surface on marble. You can use your French edger to smooth down any ridges that may have formed along the groove when the leather was folded. The rooster image was developed in part from Stohlman’s Finesse Tracing Patterns. I designed the leaf and petal.

I used tips on pattern making and sheath making from Al Stohlman’s The Art of Making Cases (1979). One thing I did because I was using such heavy leather was to cut a V groove at the fold line less than half its thickness. That helped it to fold neatly.

Then I used a French edger to reduce the thickness along each edge of the groove, making a very flat, wide V. Next I dampened the leather over the fold

46 | sepTember 2015

Shop Talk!


The belt loop is designed around a 12 oz. 2 ½” belt.

Nice job! You may contact George at 1202 W. Clark St., Champaign, IL 61821, (217) 356-9746. [The only thing I would have done differently is added a welt in the stitch line to prevent the blade from cutting the thread.]

SHELTON-REYNOLDS, INC. 11516 N Port Washington Rd., Mequon, WI 53092

First Quality & Closeouts

G Nylon Halter, Harness & Collar Webbing

The stitching was done by hand. The edges were dyed chocolate brown and burnished. The finish is Sheridan Brown Antique.

G Nylon Sling and Tie-down Web G Urethane & Vinyl Coated Webbing G Seatbelt Webbing Seconds G Polypropylene Webbing G Hook & Loop – Sew-on & Pressure Sensitive G Derby Rope, Shock Cord G Vinyl Fabrics - Laminates & Coated G Sewing Thread - Nylon & Polyester - all sizes G 100% Acrylic Marine Fabrics G Truck Tie-down Web 1"- 2" - 3" - 4" G Clear Vinyl Tent & Boat Window G Rope - Nylon & Polyester G 1/8" Nylon Parachute Cord for Braiding

G Canvas - All Styles & Weights, Natural,

Flame Retardant, Water & Mildew Resistant

Call Toll Free ~ Nationwide

1-800-877-7150

www.sheltonreynolds.com

Fax (262) 478-9226 SHIPMENT WITHIN 24 HOURS

Shop Talk!

september 2015

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News, Notes & Queries

Business and updates and happenings

Goof in Auburn Leather Article

Head for Pendleton

Our apologies. There seems to have been an “orphan caption” floating around in the article that appeared on p. 38 out of the blue which read, “Ida and her colleague Lydia Wilson are two big reasons for the tremendous success of Auburn Leather along with Lisa Howlett’s innovative marketing.”

It’s quickly becoming one of the best leather trade shows in the US so you need to be a part of it! This year there will also be a saddle contest and different classes will be offered. Show is scheduled for November 6-7 at the Pendleton Convention Center, Pendleton, OR.

That should have appeared on page 37 in the caption for the picture of Ida Elliot, Vice President of Business Developent, in the top right corner.

If you’d like to exhibit or attend, get all the details at www.pendletonleathershow.com or call Sheridan Leather at (307) 674-6679. Antique Tools We’re talking about collectibles and really nice stuff!

H

ANSEN

WESTERN GEAR

Conchos Saddle Trim Hand Engraved Silver Products “For those who want the very best”

HansenSilver.com

209-847-7390 Marie, Tim & Kelleigh Hansen

48 | sepTember 2015

800-970-7391 Oakdale, CA 95361

Shop Talk!


Mostly tools used by carpenters, cabinet makers, and other tradespeople other than leather workers but old tools do sneak in from time to time. Martin J. Donnelly Auctions has several big events throughout the year. Contact: mjd@mjdtauctions. com, (800) 869-0695. A web site which lists quality collectibles is jimbodetools.com. You never know what you might find! Of course, Fine Tool Journal has call-in auctions during the year and always lists a few leather working tools. Contact: (800) 964-9036, www.finetooljournal.net.

ing tools which have been piling up and threatening to bury us alive!!! BIG and CHEAP! What more could you ask for—plus a great selection of hammers, hand tools, and clicker dies. October 1! The sale will be printed in the October issue of Shop Talk! and also go online at 12 midnight. It’s BIG and it’s CRAZY!! Wow!!!! Leather Worker of the Month

Big Crazy Tool Sale!

Shop Talk! has a number of readers who are guests at a variety of state and federal prisons, and we’d like to find out more about their lives as leather workers behind bars. What’s it like? Are supplies hard to come by? What about machinery? How did they become leather workers? What do they do with the work that they produce?

It’s here and we’re ready. Starts Oct. 1. This the LARGEST sale we’ve ever had and the CHEAPEST prices because to clean out 1100’s stampHermann Oaks Sm we Texthave Ad_BW03_12_Layout 3/4/13of8:13 AM Page 1

We’d like to hear from you. If it’s possible for one of our writers to interview you by phone, please let us know. Or please send us your story along with any

Brown Auctions is another big seller on lots and lots of antique tools.

Skirting • Harness • Latigo • Bridle • Holster • Belting • Rawhide • Tooling

CARVES LIKE BUTTER–STAMPS TO AN INCREDIBLE DEPTH

FIRM–STRONG & FLEXIBLE–BEAUTIFUL

THIS IS HERMANN OAK LEATHER! Our leathers are tanned in the United States using only the finest North American Hides. For wholesale service, contact us at 1 (800) 325-7950 or fax us at (314) 421-6152 Or contact the nearest distributor listed below: El Paso, TX, Bowden Leather Company 915-877-1557 Ventura, CA, Goliger Leather Company 800-423-2329 Napa, CA, Hide & Leather House 707-255-6160 Billings, MT, Montana Leather Company 406-245-1660 Portland, OR, Oregon Leather Company 503-228-4105 Amarillo, TX, Panhandle Leather Company 806-373-0535 Sheridan, WY, Sheridan Leather Outfitters 888-803-3030 Mt Hope, OH, Weaver Leather, Inc 800-WEAVER-1

Springfield, MO, Springfield Leather Company 800-668-8518 Calgary, AB, Canada, Caledon Sales Ltd 403-252-0232 Botany, NSW, Australia, Birdsall Leather 011-612-9316-6299 Toowoomba, Qsld, Australia, Toowoomba Saddlery 011-617-4633-1855 Suginami-ku, Tokyo, Japan, Craft & Company Ltd. 011-81-3-5698-5511 Taito-Ku, Tokyo, Japan, Kyoshin Elle & Co., LTD 011-81-3-3866-3221 Maniwa, Japan, Star Trading Company 011-81-8-6742-8004 What Firminy, France, Logis de Cordes 33-04-61-19-16

Shop Talk!

St. Louis, MO Since 1881

Legends Are Made Of. www.hermannoakleather.com

september 2015

| 49


pictures you may be able to send to: Shop Talk!, PO Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net. Whatever you send will be returned.

trial Evolution” and it’s about how narrow fabrics are changing to meet modern demands. There is even a mention of our own BioThane! It’s a good read and informative.

Thanks and we look forward to hearing from you.

Review is published by IFAI—Industrial Fabrics Association International and may be contacted at (800) 225-4324, www.ifai.com. Great source that will help you stay current on specialty fabrics and the equipment used in the manufacturing of products which range from combat gear to tents, awnings, furniture, and boat covers.

No Saddle Contest at Roundup There’s been a slight change in plans at the Custom Boot & Saddle Makers’ Roundup this year. There will not—repeat NOT—be a Saddle Contest this year. There WILL BE a Boot contest! So get busy and get those boots ready. Dates are Oct. 2-3. For all the details please contact Kathy Kimmel at Kimmel Boot at 2080 County Road 304, Comanche, TX 76442, (325) 356-3197, e-mail: kimmels@cctc.net, www.bootandsaddlemakertradeshow.com. It’s the best—plan now to attend! Advancements in Narrow Fabrics Good article in the July issue of Specialty Fabrics Review (pp. 38 f) entitled, “Narrow Fabrics Indus-

Beiler’s Mfg. & Supply Manufacturing address 290 S. Groffdale Rd. Leola, PA 17540 (717) 656-2179

Main Office & Warehouse 3025 Irishtown Rd. Ronks, PA 17540 (717) 768-0174

Manufacturers of Leather, Nylon or Biothane Products like Halters, Harnesses or other Equine or Pet Related items. Distributors of Harness & Saddlery Hardware. Leather, Leather Oils, Biothane & Nylon Webbing plus other Equine Products. Call us for any custom made Harness or Saddlery Hardware item you may need.

Two New Books from Proleptic Yes, sir!! They are almost here! We have Making Leather Sheaths Vol. 2 that should be in stock real soon. We’ve had pretty god success with Vol. 1 which we’ve been selling for a couple years now. Vol. 2 walks you through how to make two welted sheaths step-by-step. Lots of photos and patterns. Also covers basic leather working skills and includes a glossary of terms. Spiral bound. 144 pp. with 300

Chap, Saddle & Tooling Leather! The best grades from the best tanneries! Hermann Oak #1, or A & B grades only! Skirting, Harness, Strap, tooling, etc. Large clean sides of chap leather! Same types and colors always in stock! Work, Rodeo and Show!

Outstanding service! Real leather sample cards available!

Goliger Leather Company 800 423-2329 Fax 805 650-1742 email: service@goligerleather.com Visit our website: goligerleather.com

50 | sepTember 2015

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color photos and diagrams. Cost is $24.99 plus SH.

available and Proleptic is the ONLY source for this handy book.

Order yours today!

To order either Making Leather Sheaths Vol. 2 or To Handmake a Saddle, please contact Proleptic, Inc., P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptak@proleptic.net.

For about a year now we’ve been working on reprinting that classic little book on English saddle repair and saddle making, To Handmake a Saddle, by J. H. L. Shields. We were able to purchase the rights to the book and have recently reprinted it! This is an 80 pp. book with eighteen different chapters complete with photos and patterns. Chapters include: Preparing the Webbing; Blocking the Seat; Setting the Seat; Preparing and Stitching on Girth Straps; Preparing the Panel; Fixing the Knee Roll; Stuffing and Finishing; and more. Cost is still $14.95 plus SH. Wholesale pricing is

Funk and Punk Issue! We are inviting the most innovative and cutting edge leather artists anywhere in the world to display their work in Shop Talk! It’ll be an all color issue so everyone’s work will look great. So please send us some great pictures of what you do and thanks! But remember—it has to be either punky or funky! The punkier and the funkier the BETTER! Contact: P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, email: shoptalk@proleptic.net.

Bogle Greenwell Machinery Corp. Since 1953

3100 E. Main, Grand Prairie, TX 75050 (972) 262-8652 or (972) 262-3101 Fax (972) 262-3251 Leather Machinery, Dies & Supplies Representatives & Distributors for:

Indusco Acme Staple Co. Adler America Inc. Chandler Machine Co. Manufacturers Supplies Co. Campbell Bosworth Machinery Co.

Consolidated Sewing Machine Corp. Randall Leather Machine Corp. Quick Roll Leaf Mfg. Co., Inc. Fortuna Machine Co. Jado Machine Co. Juki AmericaSinger Machine Co.

Hudson Machine Co. Western Supplies Co. Schaefer Machine Company, Inc. Ferd, Schmetz Needle Corp. New England Needles Inc. Pfaff Pegasus of USA, Inc. & many more

Sale or Lease of New & Used Machinery www.boglegreenwell.com

The American Donkey & Mule Society Established 1967—Serving Longears and their owners for over 40 years.

World’s Largest Single Source of Information and Services for all sizes of Donkeys, Mules & Zebra Hybrids. Home of the BRAYER magazine, The Original All-Breed Longear Publication 112 pages bi-Monthly. $23 US, $30 Canada, $35 overseas Ck, MO, Paypal, MC/Visa ADMS, PO Box 1210, Lewisville TX 75067 (972) 219-0781 Email lovelongears@hotmail.com ** www.lovelongears.com

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52 | sepTember 2015

Shop Talk!


My Buyer’s Guide! 2016

Buggy Builder’s Needs Copy & Photos

Oh, boy—if you weren’t in last year’s buyer’s guide you have no idea how much business you’ve LOST! MISSED! GONE BEGGING! Gazillions of dollars’ worth! What a dummy you are!

Hey—if you know of anyone restoring a buggy, maybe they’d like to take some pics and write up a brief story about what they’ve been doing. Or if you know someone who’s already restored a vehicle or maybe has a collection or maybe has an old buggy sitting around that they’d like so information on—get them to contact Buggy Builder’s Bulletin at 7895 Mason St., Dayton, VA 22821, (540) 879-9260.

For as little as $189 you too can reach 16,000 shops, manufacturers, and retailers. And just who does that include you might well ask. Just about EVERY— *Tack shop in the US *Every saddle shop *Every harness shop *Every English saddle shop *Every Western store. Wow! So what are you waiting for, Jed? That’s a nobrainer. Give us a call today and reserve a spot: My Buyer’s Guide!, P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28817, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: info@mybuyersguide. net, www.mybuyersguide.net.

SUN BIAS, INC.

INDUSTRIAL SEWING SERVICES 1718 N. 1ST. STREET ** MILWAUKEE, WI. 53212 Serving the needle trades 90 years. POLYPROPYLENE WEBBING Firsts & Seconds. 28 colors on Firsts 59/60” NYLON FABRICS Firsts & Seconds Urethane Coated. 60 colors on 1000-Denier & many other fabrics. HOOK & LOOP Sew on 1/4” to 6”, some widths in 35 colors. P. S. (Stick on) 5/8”-5” Rubber & Acrylic. SPECIAL Hook/Loop. Call for prices ELASTICS Woven H D 1” thru 3” & Ex H D, also knitted & braided types. PLASTIC & METAL HARDWARE for webbing & miscellaneous items Grommets Washers 3 colors & Snaps 39 cap colors.

Firewood Bundle Webbing Handles Automated Hot/Sear Cutting on webbing, Elastics and Hook & Loop. For no-fray ends use Hot cutting on webbing for belt tip ends. 2-1/4” Electric Webbing & Rope Cutters for cut it yourself. Self-Locking Nylon Ties (Cable Ties) 4” thru 15”. BIAS or STRAIGHT CUT fabric binding tape slitting SINGLE & DOUBLE folded Bias Tapes * 200+ colors. CORD EDGE PIPING 200+ colors & Asst. Cord Fillers for horse blankets.

Up to 200 Catalog color pages available. Save paper order as needed from our catalog index pages and the latest changes by e-mail in the same day to sales@sunbias.com (or USPS mail takes longer) TOLL FREE NATION WIDE 1-800-425-4747 • FAX 1-414-265-5353

MOST IN STOCK MATERIALS ARE SHIPPED WITHIN 24 HOURS. MASTER CARD,*VISA,*DISCOVER & E-CHECKS

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BBB could use a hand with getting more copy so they’d appreciate hearing from you. Maybe you have an old book they’d be interested in knowing about or maybe there’s been a piece run in your local paper that you cut snip out and send to them. I’m sure they’d appreciate it! Next Martin Auction They list—coaches, carriages, sleighs, appointments, equipment, horse related items, antiques, and collectibles! The auction is this October 16-17, at the Lebanon Fairgrounds in Lebanon, PA. You can call (717) 3546671 or visit www.martinactioneers.com. Buggy Builder’s Bulletin needs to cover this event!! Send a reporter or hire someone, Everette!! Innovate! Think! Get off your big fat duff! Biggest Hitch in North America Do people make big hitches any more or is that just a thing of the past? We'd like to know if there is anyone out there still making big hitches so send us the details and some nice pictures—thanks!!

Contact: Shop Talk!, P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic. net. Events to Attend!

*

Jim Cox will be holding an auction/trade show this coming September 30, in Miami, OK. For all the details to exhibit or consign, please contact Jim at (800) 874-1167 or (513) 889-0500. The auction will be held at the Peoria Ridge Golf Complex at Buffalo Run Casino. Another event is schedule to be held in Webster, FL, at some future date.

*

Wickenburg Leather Show is scheduled for Feb. 4-6, 2016. Contact Hansen Silver at (800) 970-7391 or visit www.wickenburgleathertradeshow.com for all the details.

*

August 29—total liquidation sale of Pepple Leather Co. at 5775 E. Lincolnway, Columbia City, IN 46725, (260) 982-9050. Visit www.metzgerauction.com.

Milton Sokol & Co. Inc. ~ Demar Leather Company Established 1927

Russet Vegetable Tanned Leathers:

-Double Backs -Double Butts -Tooling Sides -Bellies -Shoulders -Sole Bends

Call Toll Free 1-888-765-6526 “Just ask for Jesse”

*Premium South American Skirting, Bridle & Harness *Large assortment of Oil Tanned and Chap Sides *Full color range of Upholstery and Garment Leathers

127-25 Metropolitan Avenue  Kew Gardens, NY 11415 Ph: (718) 441-2226  Fx: (718) 441-2299  email: sales@msokol.com 54 | sepTember 2015

Shop Talk!


*

Martin Carriage Auction—October 16-17, at the Lebanon Fairgrounds in Lebanon, PA, (717) 3546671, www.martinauctioneers.com.

*

The next Pendleton Show will be held November 6-7, in Pendleton, OR, hosted by Sheridan Leather Outfitters, (888) 803-3030, www.sheridanleather. com. If I had Only Known How many times have your head and thought with a certain amount of regret coupled with self-disgust, “If I had only know!”? As folks say, hindsight is 20/20. So why not lend a helping paw to those younger men and women coming into the trades and share some of the things you’ve learned over the years? Doesn’t have to be world shattering. One of the best pieces of advice I ever got was to move the tack tray closer to my work so I wouldn’t reach so much—brilliant! Thank you, Everight! Now it’s YOUR turn to pass along what you’ve learned so please drop us a line about things like

Shop Talk!

ordering leather, running a business, working with customers, how to charge, your favorite round knife, etc.—whatever has made your life and work a little bit easier over the years and just might help the next generation to avoid some of the same pitfalls. Thanks! Carolina Renaissance Festival It seems that there is an event called The Carolina Renaissance Festival & Artisan Marketplace that takes place on eight different weekends from Oct. 3-Nov. 22. Wow!! What a great opportunity to sell your wares and/or supplies to some of the 10,000 people that visit the Festival each day. Maybe there’s something like this in YOUR state that would good to attend as a vendor! Who knows—it might give you selling opportunities you’ve never considered. You might even want to develop a new product line just for this sort of event. So get busy and do some research! You’ll be glad you did. For more info about the Carolina event, call (704) 896-5555 ext 223 or e-mail: matt@renfestinfo.com.

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New Numbers *Keith Pommer--What a talented sewing machine repairman and restorer of quality leather tools and bench machines! That would have to be Keith Pommer and his new number (605) 261-9695. He specializes in Landis #3’s. *Mose Miller at Miller’s Wholesale Harness finally has an answering service!! Yippeeee! That number is (270) 378-6921. I sure hope no one makes any sort of crank calls and leave messages like: “Do you Prince Albert in a can? You better let him out--ha, ha, ha!!!!” So childish. Mark Your Calendar!

*

The next Custom Boot & Saddle Makers’ Roundup will be this coming October 2-3, in Wichita Falls, TX. For all the details, please contact Eddie or Kathy Kimmel at 2080 County Road 304, Comanche, TX 76442, (325) 356-3197, www.bootandsaddlemakerstradeshow. com.

*

Pendleton Leather Show, Pendleton, OR. November 6-7. Hosted by Sheridan Leather Outfitters, (888) 803-3030, www.sheridanleather.com.

*

European Leather Workers and Artist Trade Show will be September 24th-26th, 2015. Le Firmament, 2 Rue Dorian, 42700, Firminy, France. Workshops Start Wednesday, September 23rd. Sponsored by Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal. For more information, visit www.logisdecordes.com.

Neoprene Sheets Hook & Loop Fasteners Also Available • Laminated with Nylon, Lycra, Terry, UBL…etc. • Common uses: Wet Suits, Waders, Knee/Elbow Pads…etc.

• 6 Million Yards in Stock • Sizes from 3/8” to 6” • 30 Colors Available

• TPU Laminated Fabrics • Tricot Fabrics • Mesh Fabrics • Hot Melt Adhesive Films • Webbing, Buckles, Elastic, Zippers…etc

SALES REP WANTED IN SOME TERRITORIES

5351 Oceanus Drive, Huntington Beach, CA 92649 Tel: 714-898-5989 • Fax: 714-894-8018 • E-mail: info@perfectex.com • www.perfectex.com

Buggy Builder’s Bulletin

Bi-monthly trade publication for Carriage & Wagon Makers $25/year in U.S. ~ $30 (US funds only) in Canada

Buggy Builder’s Bulletin 795 Mason St.., Dayton, VA 22821

(540) 879-9260

Whip Manufacturing

50”, 60”, 66”, 72” in stock  Colors  Custom Orders

Leather, BioPlastic & Brahma Webb Harnesses

N aLL sizes N

Available for Large & Small Production Runs  Private Labeling  On Time Delivery 

X

Center Square HarneSS

246 Forest Hill Rd., Leola, PA 17540 • (717) 656-3381

56 | sepTember 2015

Shop Talk!


You can always expect the unexpected when you have...

Dumb Luck!

Kevin has been teaching Thor how to scuba dive...while Rusty supervises from the shore, collecting sea shells and such. During thier recent underwater escapade, deep in the Mariana Trench (a suburb of Atlantis-but it’s lost, so you wouldn’t know about it), Kevin discovered the equivilent of an elephant graveyard...for STINGRAYS! And these were no ordinary stingrays...no sir-ee! “Clearly,” Kevin thought to himself “there was science or some such thing going on because these are the craziest stingrays I have ever seen! Tiger, Giraffe, Zebra and even Frog Stingrays! And they’re HUGE!” Kevin, ever the opportunist, gathered up about 1,400 of those suckers and slowly made his way to the surface. Whilst soldiering through rather intense oxygen conservation (or deprivation), a brilliant idea struck him! “Let’s sell stingrays...STUPID CHEAP!” Speaking of stupid... Wow. And here I Stingrays, cool.

But what kind of fish goes with peanut butter?

thought my brain needed more oxygen! Sheesh!

Jellyfish! Duh! Wait a minute... Ow. Ow. Ow!!! What is that stinging?!

Springfield Leather Company

1463 S. Glenstone Springfield, MO 65804 1-800-668-8518 www.springfieldleather.com

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Classifieds

Buy or sell or trade

Classified ad rates are $26.50 for the first 20 words and $.65 cents for each additional word. Words (or groups of letters) fewer than three characters are not counted when calculating the cost of the ad. Street addresses are counted as one word. City, state, country, and zip or postal code are combined and counted as one word. Enclose payment when submitting ads. Ads received without payment will be held until payment is made. Ads must be received no later than the fifth of the month prior to the month you wish the ad to run (e.g. ads for the February issue must be in our office by January 5). Typed or neatly printed ads are preferred. We are not responsible for mistakes due to handwriting. Faxed ads must be typed and are accepted with MasterCard, VISA or Discover only.

Wanted Wanted: New subscribers from Washington, California, Oregon, and Canda. Now is the time to renew! Give us a call at (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net or visit www.proleptic.net. Wanted: Complete tool collections. Contact: Shop Talk!, P O Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net. Wanted: Bench equipment. Any condition. Skivers, splitters, pressers, spotters, etc. Also parts and pieces— bolts, frames, springs, blades. We pay shipping. Contact Shop Talk!, P.O. Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net. For Sale For Sale: Double headed Schwabe clicker, $4,000. Antique 100-ton leather press, $800. Also 22 new H&H saddles. Located in Bryant, AL. Contact: Cheryl Tolliver (423) 939-0284 or e-mail: cltolliver81@yahoo.com For Sale: Randall Edge Beveller with stand. Extra knives and wheels. Excellent condition. Contact: Christie Saddlery, Alvord, TX, (940) 427-3260. E-mail: lcox@christiesaddlery.com. Singer patcher 29-4 sewing machine. Good condition. Guaranteed to work. $400. Contact: Ruben Yoder, Yoder’s Collar Shop, 25090 County Hwy J66, Davis City, IA 50065, (641) 442-2517. Holster Business for Sale: Prominent, reputable leather holster manufacturing company established in 1972. Owners wish to retire. For details, contact: donlbrown46@gmail.com.

58 | September 2015

Leather Unlimited. Quality wholesale leather distributor since 1970 including oak, deerskin, garment, rawhide, oiled cowhide, furs, and more. Quality leather goods, leather tools, black powder gear, all steel clicker and mallet dies. Complete Internet catalog at www. LeatherUnltd.com or call (800) 993-2889 for quality leather and friendly service from a USA family-owned and operated business. Liquidating entire inventory. 7 hvy. Duty sewing machines—Cobras, Artisan, Juki’s. 2 embossing machines. 12” USMC splitter. 12” Aperture band knife. 2 creasers. Singer 112 dbl. needle. 14” strap cutter. 3 Standard Rivet spot machines. 5 nylon hole burners. 2 chap machines. 5 cargo trailer container loads of saddles, bridles, halters, leads, etc. No reasonable offer refused. Contact: Ben Day, Western Specialties, 3106 Cedardale Rd., Mt. Vernon, WS 98174, (360) 708-4201. Leatherman Tools. Rebar $55. Wave $77.50. DeWalt ½” 18V.XRP drill driver with 2XRP batteries, $269. $7.50 SH per order. Contact: Yoder’s Harness Shop, E 14994 State Road 82, LaFarge, WI 54639

CLASSIFIEDS ARE OUR BEST BUY! Reach 1,000’s of potential buyers for as little as $26.50!! Install and remove Chicago screws quickly and easily in the shop or on the trail. $16.95 + $4 S&H. Call for wholesale pricing. Contact: JP’s Bridle & Equine Tool, 26266 E. County Road 700 N., Easton, IL 62633. (309) 562-7266. E-mail: jp-equinetacktool@casscomm.com, www.jptacktool.com. For all your leather needs. Call Moser Leather (800) 874-1167 or (513) 889-0500. You can visit our website at www.moserleatherco.com. (R&B) For Sale: The Pro-Concho Turner: The only one in the U.S. Makes removal of decorative conchos a snap! Used

Shop Talk!


DDLE E A SA

MAK AND

O HA T Wholesale Harness & Supplies! Brahma web, PVC

TO H

with electric drill. Take the fuss and bother out of a difficult job with the Pro-Concho Turner! Saves time, makes money! Rubber gripper protects the concho and makes removal or installation easy. Only $29.00 plus $3.95 S&H, 6-inch steel shank, and rubber gripper. Ready to use! Contact: Proleptic, Inc., P.O. Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic. net. AKE NDM

New!

S IELD

For Sale: “Making Harness: A Step-by-Step Guide”, $58 plus $5.50 S&H. Specs and instructions on how to make and repair six styles of harness from pony to draft, driving, team wagon and mule. Contact: Proleptic, Inc., P.O. Box 17817, Asheville, NC 28816, (828) 505-8474, e-mail: shoptalk@proleptic.net, www.proleptic.net.

L. SH

ional tradit nly hand o on of erosi lf. Using y-step is the -b itse is ction the craft rates step kind. It u d ss pro e loss of demonst y of any a m e, th lts of book machiner rations. e resu nd, in tim ods, this lust e to il of th rs a e h u e n et ip n co m O d li sh out re ional hs an sman of craft nd tradit ade with hotograp lers, m a p Sadd ddlery tools saddle is ith both aster sa a ted w y of M t he was osition how et en ci m en le So rp comp g the is retirem a simila is an udin d h d s, incl t. Before abour, hel Areas an ation L en ral . associ st Presid istry of in Ru Institute lery in a es d p ri M d n a , st sa he is the, then all Indu of Londo h ic s to Sm wh ctor Guild l for instru e Counci City and e th with er for th in exam

J. H.

sheeting, PVC belting, nylon webbing, nylon thread and hardware. We manufacture a full line of synthetic harness parts. In stock for immediate shipping, including blinds, gig saddles, molded curved crowns, cruppers, winker stays, and lots of die cut parts, etc. Ask for your FREE catalog! Contact: Countryside Mfg., 504 S. Humbert St., Milton, IA 52570.

TO DMAKE HAN A DLE SAD

Wholesale Pricing Available

DSS LD EL HIIE L.. SSH H.. L JJ.. H

Proleptic, Inc. • P.O. Box 17817 • Asheville, NC 28816 828-505-8474 • Fax 828-505-8476 • www.proleptic.net

Beta 580 ®

THE ORIGINAL SINCE 1977

It’s As Comfy As It Looks.

Great for lines and reins, our new Beta® 580 puts the ultimate look and feel of soft leather in your hands. Ask for Beta® 580 Semi-Gloss lines and reins at your local harness or tack shop. Or call us to recieve a sample 440-327-0485.

Shop Talk!

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For Sale: Pricing Guide: “How to Establish Prices for the Saddle Maker and Leather Worker.” Only $39.95 plus $4.50 S&H. Contact: (828) 505-8474. (12/12) For Sale: New and used Adler, Brother, Consew, Juki, Pfaff, Singer machines for sewing bio-plastic, canvas, leather and nylon. Available in single or double needles, standard, long arm, flatbed, postbed, cylinder arm. Contact: Bob Kovar, Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine, 3631 Marine Rd., Toledo, OH 43609, (866) 362-7397 or (419) 380-8540. (11/10) For Sale: Tools for the Professional—Ol’ Smoothie swivel knives, blades, stamping tools, and more. Contact: Chuck Smith Tools, Smith & Co., P O Box 2647, Valley Center, CA 92082. (760) 749-5755. Fax (760) 749-5355. E-mail: olsmoothie@sbcglobal.net. (R&B) www.theleatherguy.org for all your leather, tool, and supply needs. Friendly, helpful staff at (507) 932-3795. (R&B) For Sale: Juki Pro 2000. Like new. On stand with clutch. Ready to use on line shaft. $4,200, Contact: G.R.T. Saddlery, 149 Chestnut Rd., Dayton, PA 16222. Shop Liquidation: Selling high quality harness and saddle making tools and equipment. Too much to list. Manitoba, Canada. Contact: amalt5@yahoo.com or (204) 444-3465. Boot & Shoe Established 26 year old business in San Antonio, TX. One man operation with inventory of apx. 350 pair top of the line all leather Western boots. Great boot repair business. Complete line of immaculate boot repair equipment. Could be expanded to include saddle repair. Sale includes website (www.shiplerboots.com) and company name. Guaranteed lease in current location for one year at rate of $650/month. Retiring. (866) 250-3350 or (210) 215) 9158 or e-mail: info@shiplerboots.com. $150,000.

Find Us On Shop Talk Leather Magazine 60 | sepTember 2015

s Recently, I was reading a murder mystery set in Oxford, England, right at the beginning of World War II, around 1940 or thereabouts. I realized whilst reading that there were quite a few words I had never seen before and whose meaning I did not know. So as I came across unfamiliar vocabulary, I wrote it down to be looked up later--which I did and which produced a good bit of enjoyment. Here’s the list. I promise you these really are bona fide words which, unfortunately in a few cases, have fallen out of usage over the years. Enjoy. agon prolegomena mendaciously farrago objurgatory logomachy

constatation minatory aposiopesis apolaustic lambent cinereous sempiternal

Shop Talk!


My Buyer's Guide!™ Reach 16,000 shops, manufacturers & retailers

EVERY

Tack Shop • Harness Shop • Western Store • Bag Maker • Belt Maker • Saddle Manufacturer • Maker of Leather Goods in U.S.

Sell your: Reach Manufacturers of: • Business Services • Outdoor Equipment • Finished Goods • Safety Equipment • Horse Healthcare Products • Sporting Goods • Leather Care Products • Pet Goods • Machinery • Luggage • Hardware • Supplies

My Buyer's Guide!TM PO Box 17817 Asheville, NC 28816 ph (828) 505-8474 fx (828) 505-8476 info@mybuyersguide.net Shop Talk!

Contact Us About 2016! www.mybuyersguide.net

september 2015

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American Leather Direct......................7 Beiler’s Mfg. & Supply........................50 BioThane.......................................39, 59 Bogle Greenwell Machinery Corp.....51 Bowden Saddle Tree..........................55 Brayer..................................................51 Brodhead Collar Shop........................51 Buckeye Blanket.................................10 Buckeye Engraving............................18 Buckle Barn USA................................21 Buena Vista Blankets.........................18 Buggy Builder’s Bulletin....................56 Campbell-Randall.................................6 Center Square.....................................56 Chino Tack..........................................25 Chupp Blacksmith Shop....................23 Coblentz Collar...................................17 D. M. Smucker.......................................9 Danny Marlin Knives..........................44 E.C. Leather.........................................56 Fairview Country Sales........................5 Fiebing Leather.....................................8 Fine Tool Journal................................20 Gfeller Casemakers, Inc.....................21 Goliger Leather Co.............................50 Hadlock & Fox Mfg. Co......................40 Hand Plait Leather..............................24

ADVERTISERS INDEX Hansen Western Gear........................48 Hastilow . ............................................45 Hawkeye Harness...............................33 Hermann Oak......................................49 Hide House..........................................21 Hillside Harness Hardware..back cover International Sheepskin.....................20 Kalico Products..................................10 Kelly-Larson Sales............................. 11 Landis Sales & Service......................20 Leather Crafters Journal....................33 Leather Machine Co., Inc., The..........63 Leather Unlimited............................... 11 Mark Staton.........................................41 Maverick Leather................................42 Mid-River Sales...................................23 Milton Sokol........................................54 Moser Leather.....................................19 Mules and More, Inc...........................53 N & A Harness Shop...........................43 Nettles....................................................9 Nick-O Sew..........................................26 Ohio Plastics Belting Co....................16 Ohio Travel Bag..................................45 Perfectex Plus LLC.............................56 Precision Saddle Tree..........................15 Proleptic.......................................31, 37, 59, 61

Classified Ads

20 words or less $26.50 Additional words (each) $ .65

Display Ads

RJF Leather.........................................50 Raphael Sewing Machine/TechSew............ ............................................18, back cover Rural Heritage.....................................53 Sam Troyer..........................................24 Sew What.............................................44 Shelton-Reynolds, Inc........................47 Sheridan Leather................................48 Shetler’s Collar Shop.........................21 ShoTan.................................................46 Small Farmer’s Journal......................16 Smoke & Fire Co.................................47 Southstar Supply................................53 Sorrell Notions....................................45 Springfield Leather.............................57 Steel Stamps, Inc................................17 Sun Bias, Inc.......................................53 Sweat Pad Shop............................18, 24 TechSew/Rapheal Sewing Machine............. .............................................18, back cover Texas Custom Dies.............................42 Toledo Sewing......................................3 Troyer's Harness................................23 Wayne Jueschke.................................44 Weaver Leather.....................................2 Western Mule......................................44 Wickett & Craig...................................52

$45 each additional page. Event flyers must be inserted 60 days in advance. All inserts must be shipped directly to printer.

Full Page $485.00 Half Page $271.00 Reduce - Reuse - Recycle Quarter Page $147.00 Recycling old magazines, catalogs, and Eighth Page $78.00 newspapers is one of the (Color and guaranteed placement addi- easiest ways to help the tional) environment. To increase the supply of recoverable Setup Charge wood fiber and to reduce the demand $60 per hour with a $18 minimum. Line art on regional landfills, Shop Talk! urges Advertising Deadline for advertising copy is the 5th may be inserted at no additional charge. $10 its readers to support recycling efforts in of the month prior to the month of publi- per photo. their communities. cation. Invoices are due upon receipt. 6 or 12-month prepaid advertising contracts Inserts Shop Talk! is printed only with inks receive a 5% discount. $399 for one page­— made from vegetable oil. Maximum trim size: 8-1/4” X 10-3/4”

Shop Talk! • published by Proleptic, Inc.• P.O. Box 17817 Asheville, NC 28816 • email: shoptalk@proleptic.net

62 | sepTember 2015

Shop Talk!


COBRA Class 4 Specifications: *16 1/2” Arm *Best and most versatile presser feet in the business *Sews from 6 oz. to 7/8 ” *Thread sizes from 69 to 415 *Triple Feed mechanism *Reverse stitches in same holes *Stitch Length from 3-22 stitches an inch *Sews leather, pads, blankets, webbing, canvas, upholstery, bio-plastics, & other materials *28 LED Super Beam Lamp *Heavy Duty Speed Reducer *Digital DC Servo Motor *Accessories

FINALLY!!

An open toe center foot for maximum visibility, only available on the Cobra Class 4 or Cobra Class 3... it’s about time!

*Complete Accessory Package FREE!!

$2,695.00 Complete Christopher Andre (Slickbald Custom Leather) 1st. Place in the Holsters and Gunbelts category in Sheridan, WY., using his COBRA CLASS 4

LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY ON ALL COBRA MACHINERY!!

LEATHER MACHINE CO., INC. www.leathermachineco.com * cobra@leathermachineco.com Shop Talk! september 2015

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Shop Talk!

September 2015

with Boot & Shoe News

P.O. Box 17817 • Asheville, NC 28816 (828) 505-8474 • FAX (828) 505-8476 www.proleptic.net

12 Monthly Issues $36 Canada & Mexico $39US Other Countries $54US SHATA Members deduct $4

CHANGE SERVICE REQUESTED

Always First With The News

Distributors of Quality Hardware & Supplies for the Harness, Tack, Saddlery, and Pet Industries

X

• BioThane Coated Webbing • Thoroughbred Leather • Quality Stainless Steel and Brass Saddlery Hardware • Fiebing Products • WahlClippers • Fortex & Fortiflex Products • Nylon Webbing • Leather and BioThane Harness Parts plus much more

Large enough to serve you… Small enough to need you! We manufacture our own line of leather riding and training tack. We also do custom leather and nylon work.

4205 Township Road 629 Millersburg, OH 44654 Request your free catalog today!

Check your renewal date today!


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