i-D Magazine Recreation

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Dreams and aspiration addition issue no. 316

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April 2018

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breath in. breath out. take it in. now take a step to safe it

volunteer at ecosoc.org

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editors note

terry jones In 1980 Terry Jones, his wife Tricia Jones, and Blitz kid Perry Haines founded the magazine i-D. The first issue was hand-stapled photocopies in the style of a fanzine with little distribution.

But over the years i-D developed to a glossy fashion magazine with global impact, while still keeping its cutting-edge view on fashion and youth culture.

From its launch in 1980, to the summer of 1985, when the magazine moved to Covent Garden, i-D was produced from the top floor of Terry and Tricia Jones’ terraced house in West Hampstead.

Pioneering the ‘straight-upstreet-style portrait, the mag

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azine presented an alternative, grass-roots view of fashion, which contrasted greatly with the rarified glamour of mainstream fashion at the time. The winking cover-star, from Madonna in 1984 to Cara Delevingne on recent issues, has since become a cheeky trademark for the i-D brand.

Terry’s intentions and direction of i-D have always been well-focused, exemplified in his interview with Hint: “[British] Vogue will look at i-D and think, ‘We’d like a bit of that photographer.’

Some photographers have that in mind when they shoot for us, but their work in i-D will have more soul. That’s the difference.

We’ve become a virus, which was kind of intentional.

Editor in chief (Terry Jones)

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Take a vacation. Travel and become a global citizen

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DISCOVER YOURSELF 5

[April 2018] [CONTENTS 1]

NEWS

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read the tender sex scene cut from ‘call me by your name’

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here’s your first look at the studio ghibli theme park

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watch the first ‘skam austin’ episode now

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sofia coppola says paramount studios was ‘afraid’ to release ‘the

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this free yale class will teach you how to be happy

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the trailer for ‘crazy rich asians’ looks, well, crazy

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dash stores closing marks the end of an era

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beauty for all unrestricted expression

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[April 2018] [CONTENTS 2]

FASHION

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the best vintage stores to follow on instagram

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this is the rad la diy label making all inclusive clothes for all bodies

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jenny fax’s clothes are the kawaii version of ‘twin peaks’W

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raf simons voiced a lot of opinions last night

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supreme resurrect pinhead in a collaboration with cult comic gorefest

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‘yellow is forbidden’: the incredible story of guo pei, china’s first coutu-

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this model is trying to save the earth

[April 2018]

Give Blood.

Change a Life.

Be Proud. donate blood to help victims from natural disasters 1-800- Red Cross

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Do you have to hide your Ethinicity at your workplace?

Discrimination is ILLEGAL Fight it.

Find out about our new project www.stop-discrimination.info

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NEWS

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ELIO is soon naked and lies back under the sheetin a kind of ecstasy as Oliver moves his hands over his body, as inquisitive as Marzia’s had been the night before in the street. When OLIVER pulls the sheets back, ELIOloves being naked before him. No secrets, Oliver kisses him, kisses body, takes his penis (Off screen) briefly in his mouth, then returns to kiss ELIO’s open lips again more deeply, as if he too is finally leeting go. OLIVER is also naked, and not a part of him isn’t toucjing ELIO now. they stare at each other.

ELIO looks away, because OLIVER is staring at him. then he looks back and now stares at OLIVER, as the settle into amock wresting position with Oliver’s shoulders rubbing Elio’s knees. Elio looks into Oliver’s eyes in an intensity of love and expectation, wanting this momentto last forever, knowing there will be no coming back from this.

When it happens - when OLIVER enters ELIO - there is a degree of pain and discomfort, ELIO flinches and fights an impulse to stop him, which OLIVER sees.

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read the tender sex scene cut from ‘call me by your name’

“They settle into a mock wrestling position with Oliver’s shoulders rubbing Elio’s knees,” James Ivory wrote in the original version.

The original script James Ivory wrote for Call Me By Your Name is very different from the film we received. Ivory has made this very clear, speaking repeatedly on the disagreements him and director Luca Guadagnino had. One of the biggest cuts Guadagnino made was removing the explicit sex scene Ivory wrote. He opted instead to film Oliver and Elio’s lovemaking in

the vaguest of terms. This omission upset a lot of people, many wondering if the scene had been watered down to make straight viewers more comfortable. Well, we’re able to imagine what Oliver and Elio’s rendezvous would look like now. A fan has uploaded the first spec script for Call Me By Your Name.

It’s definitely real — as it features many of 14

[April 2018] the original elements Ivory has talked about James Ivory’s original sex scene really goes repeatedly, like the omission third-person nar- for it and perhaps Guadagnino was worried rator. it would overshadow the more powerful, cinematic elements of the film. Proof: the peach scene receiving so much buzz, despite not even What’s striking is just how beautifully Ivory showing Oliver eating the “diritied” peach like writes Elio and Oliver’s first time. The moment he does in the novel. is unabashedly queer, providing a raw, rare onscreen depiction of anal sex. “When it happens It’s dispiriting some of the most disruptive, … there is a degree of pain and discomfort,” queer scenes in André Aciman’s novel had to Ivory writes. “An eternity seems to pass be- be cut. We’re hoping there’s a day when seetween Elio’s reluctance to make up his mind ing two men poop together in a bizarre, but and Oliver’s instinct to make it up for him.” poetic, act of love doesn’t ruffle the feathers There’s a slew of poetic lines in Ivory’s scene of straight viewers. Either way, James Ivory still description: “Elio looks into Oliver’s eyes in an won an Oscar for his screenplay, so we’re not intensity of love and expectation, wanting this that mad. moment to last forever, knowing there is no coming back from this.” Elio and Oliver then It’s dispiriting some of the most disruptive, deliver the film’s title to each other and it feels queer scenes in André Aciman’s novel had to much more real and earned in this version, as be cut. We’re hoping there’s a day when seethe two are lost in the throes of passion. The ing two men poop together in a bizarre, but scenes ends with a radically bold exchange of poetic, act of love doesn’t ruffle the feathers bodily fluids — intended to be shown on cam- of straight viewers. Either way, James Ivory still era, of course. won an Oscar for his screenplay, so we’re not that mad.

the ‘call me by your name’ soundtrack is its own queer love story We talk to the film’s music supervisor about telling this year’s greatest romance through music.

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here’s your first look at the studio ghibli theme park.

Soon you’ll be able to walk around inside the house from ‘Howl’s Moving Castle.’

By : André-Naquian Wheeler Studio Ghibli fans have fantasized about a large-scale theme park inspired by Hayao Miyazaki’s cerebral worlds for a long time — desiring something akin to Disney World.

There have been numerous fan-made mockups over the years, one artist cleverly drawing up a Cat Bus monorail. Our fantasies will soon become reality. Last year, Studio Ghibli announced plans to open a sprawling theme park (the opening has been pushed back from 2020 to 2022). Now, the legendary studio has released the first concept art images for the 500 hectare park Wednesday and, well, it looks like a dream.

The park seamlessly blends awe-inspiring attractions with nature. There’s the distinctive Victorian-era house from Howl’s Moving Castle, hidden behind a thick layer of trees.

Princess Mononoke Village features plenty of open, green space for young visitors to run around and play. One of the most compelling sections is The Big Ghibli Playhouse, which will feature a dizzying array of attractions and movie theaters (perhaps we’re in for some new short films?!)

We’d love to see an attraction dedicated to Miyazaki’s new short film Boro the Caterpillar.

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Imagine a 4D ride allowing fans to see, smell, and feel the world through Boro’s perspective. We have four years to conjure up plenty of ideas. Um, Studio Ghibli, if you need any “Ghibli Imagineers,” we’re here.Mendesti vendi sintium re omnimusdam verite dolorehent, od essimi, tet adio omnistibusam quunt plaborias isi quas cuptae volupta tquiaecerum volore eicia voluptam fugit, sunto quaturit ex es utem que nis exerese ditiani musamen discium erspe latur?

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watch the first ‘skam austin’ episode now Meet the characters from the US remake of the hit cult show.

By: André-Naquian Wheeler SKAM has officially arrived in America! The cult Norwegian teen show organically gained an ardent following in America through its raw, unfiltered take on adolescence. Now, the show has moved from Oslo, Norway to Austin, Texas. SKAM is unique for airing through real-time episodes posted on a daily basis. We officially received our first clip of SKAM Austin Tuesday afternoon at 3:40PM CT. Airing on the streaming platform Facebook Watch, the first five-minute clip introduces us to outsider teen Meghan and her friends and boyfriend. The opening is pretty similar to first episode of the original SKAM, viewers seeing Meghan bummed out about her low test score. “I know no one cares about Frozen but I relate to Elsa so much,” Meghan’s seatmate drones on in the beginning. “That movie needs a trigger warning or something because it’s just so relatable to me.” Same, girl, same.

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going to commit suicide if they saw it!” Sofia shared. “It had a really small release… we made it for very little, so they didn’t have to do much to make it.”

sofia coppola says paramount studios was ‘afraid’ to release ‘the virgin suicides’ Sofia Coppola is arguably one of the greatest directors of our time. She has disrupted Hollywood by being one of just a (tragically) few critically acclaimed female directors, becoming known for her radically soft aesthetic. However, Sofia’s unique approach to girlhood was not always understood, and at first it scared studio executives. Sofia recently revealed She says her 1999 directorial debut The Virgin Suicides received a small-scale, lackluster release because Paramount Studios “didn’t really know what to do with it.” The Kristen Dunst-led film depicted five sisters who take their own lives in a tragic suicide pact, leaving only questions in their wake. “They were afraid that girls were 21

Almost twenty years later and The Virgin Suicides is finally getting the proper attention it deserves.The esteemed Criterion Collection has inducted the coming of age classic into its canon and released a special edition DVD of the film, including a BTS film directed by Sofia’s mother and 4K digital restoration. The film’s induction is a big win for female directors. There are hundreds of classics in the Criterion Collection — including films like P.T. Anderson’s Punch Drunk Love and David Lynch’s Eraserhead— but only 42 are directed by women. Other female-directed films includes Lena Dunham’s Tiny Furniture and Laurie Anderson’s Heart of a Dog. “I hope anyone has a DVD player to watch it,” Sofia joked to Entertainment Weekly. “I’m not sure if anyone has DVD players anymore, but I’m glad we got to make it!”

Sofia also shared new details about her work on The Virgin Suicides. The adaptation of Jeffrey Eugenides’ 1993 novel was almost made by a male director. “I heard he wasn’t doing it, so I started working on my own script as an exercise in how to adapt a book,” Sofia says. “... I heard [the other director] was doing it in a really dark way.

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this free yale class will teach you how to be happy Because we all could use some lessons.

By : André-Naquian Wheeler The world is filled with stressors these days.

Social media has been proven to increase depression and anxiety, pings on our phones always seems to bring bad news, and Beyoncé hasn’t released a new album in years.

Despite all this, serious conversations about achieving happiness in our complicated world rarely take place in public. One Yale psychology professor is attempting to teach the world how to be happy. Professor Laurie Santos created the course “Psychology and the Good Life” after she noticed how stressed and overworked her students were.

“The goal was to rewire the way the students viewed the pursuit of happiness,” she told Boston Globe. Her method? Assigning homework like “rewirement requirements” that focuses on students breaking bad habits.

The course (known as “the happiness class” on campus) is not weighted down with convoluted essay assignments. Professor Santos bridges together theoretical and experiential teachings, one assignment seeing her suddenly cancelling a class and telling students to go enjoy the time off — free of technology. “Two students in front of me just started crying,” she said of the joy students had after she delivered the homework.

More and more colleges are offering courses on emotional wellbeing, perhaps reflecting how happiness has seemingly become an elusive, fleeting feeling among today’s youth. NYU offers a course called “The Science of Happiness,” readings including Benjamin Franklin’s autobiography.

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the trailer for ‘crazy rich asians’ looks, well, crazy Watch if Michelle Yeoh throwing shade is your idea of heaven.

By: Jack Sunnucks With his 2013 satirical novel Crazy Rich Asians, Kevin Kwan skewered his upbringing in Singapore to brilliant, best-selling effect. The book became a trilogy, and now it’s a film, starring Fresh Off The Boat’s Constance Wu as Rachel Chu, a New Yorker who gets invited to meet her boyfriend’s parents in Singapore. As subtly hinted at by the title, they’re crazy rich, like, private jet rich, and thus the drama ensues — obviously when you’re crazy rich you’re supposed to marry someone similar. The trailer, released Monday, contains such gems as “You really should have told me you’re like the Prince William of Asia”, Awkwafina

with a blonde bowl cut, a lot of abs, and the iconic actress Michelle Yeoh giving a devastating amount of side-eye.

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dash stores closing marks the end of an era

In memoriam of the Kardashian boutique where it all started.

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Remember how it felt to enter a retail establishment, rather than just ordering everything online? Us neither. Ever ahead of the curve.

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The Kardashians have announced via Kim’s website that they’ll be closing their DASH stores after twelve years in business, including the much visited Melrose Avenue location.

“From opening locations in Los Angeles, Miami and New York, to having our ‘Dash Dolls’ spin-off show, it’s been such a huge part of our lives,” Kardashian West says in a post titled “Such a bittersweet announcement” (as a side note, was Dash Dolls anyone else’s favorite show while it aired?).

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“We’ve loved running DASH, but in the last few years, we’ve all grown so much individually. We’ve been busy running our own brands, as well as being moms and balancing work with our families.” DASH was in fact the store that started it all — when the show first aired, all three sisters worked in their first location in Calabasas, which seems hard to imagine now. Truly, the Kardashian empire has expanded exponentially, adding not only businesses, from Kim’s KKW Beauty to Khloe’s Good American, but also children — welcome, True! “We love our DASH Dolls and are so grateful for the amazing memories.” Thankfully, our favorite Dash Doll, Khloe’s best friend Malika Haqq, will still be gracing our screens on KUWTK. Aborem. Tem id qui officium reprovidest, unt voluptusdae. Ed moluptatque ma del eos earunt endam laboren daerum exeruptibus, consequ isquam il maximus dolupit repelecte ducium velestia cumquoditis et platem doluptam et excepta et rerro il is iundign aturenitia soluptiatem as et acid molupica.

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fashion

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the best vintage stores to follow on instagram Where to find everything from monogram mania to conceptual Japanese fashion By: Jack Sunnucks Vintage stores have long been the sartorial refuge of the one off and exquisite, where unusual pieces from across the ages go to be reborn.

Whether your obsession is Edwardian mourning gear, 60s folk chic, or Prada from the last decade, each destination has its own particular trove of finds. Allegedly, the rise of Ebay was supposed to render second hand shopping redundant, but seemingly it’s done the opposite — we now spend so much time online that IRL shopping experiences have become so much more valuable. Vintage, in particular, gives you that “thrill of the chase” feeling that’s absent in stores that carry your exact size in five colors.

Here, we list seven of the vintage emporia that we love to follow, showcasing everything from conceptual Japanese design, to almost disintegrated band t-shirts, to the ne plus ultra in Uptown chic.

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The Corner Store The Corner Store’s Stacey Nishimoto, LA’s high priestess of vintage extravagance, has already been profiled by i-D .

Her store specializes in romantic, 80s designs — think Laura Ashley gowns and bejeweled boleros. Nishimoto shoots all her finds on an array of eclectic models she finds in LA.showcasing the kind of diverse beauty sometimes missing from the vintage arena. A must follow if you’re looking to live your modern princess fantasy.

Scout Scout is the tiny, peaceful LA store that’s number one for really insane Japanese design — think racks of Comme des Garcons, Issey Miyake, and Yohji Yamamoto. Located on Melrose Avenue, it’s in the thick of all the hypebeasty madness but still manages to remain an oasis of calm. vorite recent pieces include a beautiful John Galliano leather jacket and oodles of Junya Watanabe ruffles. Scout is the go-to for conceptual fashion on the West Coast.

James Veloria James Veloria is the New York store of note if you’re in search of rare Prada Sport, Miu Miu, and other 90s mega labels, so much so in fact that he had a pop up at Opening Ceremony. The store, located on the edge of New York’s Chinatown, is a temple to nylon and velcro. Recent pieces on Veloria’s website include a Margiela suit, Kansai Yamamoto blazer, and a plethora of really good Comme.

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this is the rad la diy label making all inclusive clothes for all bodies “I think we’re lucky because of where we come from culturally,” muses artist and Los Angeles underground stalwart Cali Thornhill DeWitt. He’s talking about a lifetime of punk shows, record releases, art exhibitions, and sticker making that has culminated in Some Ware, the label he designs with musician and artist Brendan Fowler. With Some Ware they’ve captured the moment with a simple but beautiful idea — that clothes should fit and, beyond that, look good on everyone regardless of race, age, size, or gender. “We’ve thought, for 20 years or more, that if you have the belief in something, you just do it… I forget that most people don’t know that you can pretty much do anything you want.”

It’s this attitude (or “radness” as Brendan might say) that produced one of the highlights of the spring/summer 18 shows — the Some Ware happening in Paris. Sporting their three silhouettes — a huge long-sleeve t-shirt, knee-patched trousers, and a dress — friends, including No Vacancy Inn’s Tremaine Emory

and Japanese actress Kozue Akimoto, slouched out to the experimental sounds of fellow LA-dwellers Odwalla 1221.

“The summer before, we were in Paris during menswear season,” Brendan says.

“We were having such a fun time living on planet fashion, and we were like, we should do a show!” Some Ware’s is the kind of DIY ethic markedly missing from Paris. “I think of all the DIY shows Brendan’s played in basements and laundromats,” Cali says. “Knowing all of these things will take on a life of their own that you can’t predict. You can control as much as you can, but what you can’t predict is the vibe.”

Both took long and winding roads to fashion. Brendan had a solo musical project, BARR, and toured incessantly before pursuing sculpture. His Election Reform project, which started as a sculpture exhibited at LACMA, turned into hoodies embroidered with text and graphics highlighting failures in the American electoral system. Cali’s had a 30

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similarly eclectic path. He was a babysitter for Frances Bean Cobain, had a record label (“I mean it was never great — I didn’t send out promos or do ads”) and also works as an artist. We are all talking at Cali’s studio, surrounded by political figures with their horrid, gaping mouths obscured by bands of thick neon paint. A lot of Cali’s art has involved sweatshirts and tees reminiscent of the ones made locally by the Latino community to commemorate friends that have passed. It was these that caught the eye of Kanye West. Yes, Cali was responsible for the much imitated, moment-defining Life of Pablo tour merch. “For me, the T-shirt has always been there,” he grins through gold teeth. “Punk T-shirts were super important. Even when I was ten years old I wanted a Screamers logo on a jacket.”

Brendan adds, “Sometimes people say,

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[April 2018] ‘It’s weird you’re doing clothes now,’ but it’s like, ‘No, this is the least weird thing possible.’ As someone who’s done performance and also made sculpture, it’s satisfying a lot of the same urges.”

“When I’m dying one of the things I’ll like thinking about are the many friends I have around the world. That may sound silly, but it’s true. There are all these cities I can go to filled with people I know and love.”

Some Ware’s T-shirts, made of recycled fabrics, feature a seam down the back and another across the chest, lending them sculptural form. “We got the shirt and knew we wanted it a little wider, so it’s the width of the entire roll of fabric, with one back seam, which gives it this rad drape too,” Brendan says, pulling huge amounts of fabric out of his enormous Election Reform bag (his next project). “We call it “the new body,” which is fun. The silhouette is a bit of a carry-over from when Cali designed the Kanye West merch, but the shape was a subtle act of genius.”

The genius he’s talking about is that they suit all types of people and body shapes: big, small, and somewhere in between. “The shirts are bigger, it’s inclusive of all genders and all bodies,” Brendan smiles. “We did these shirts that were XL, but I had a couple of heartbreaking instances where larger people couldn’t fit into them, and I was so bummed! So I said, we just need to go bigger, and say, all bodies, all people. It’s a shout out to everyone!”

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jenny fax’s clothes are the kawaii version of ‘twin peaks’ A Jenny Fax runway show feels like the set of an 80s film about a missing teen girl. At her spring/summer 12 show, models walked down the runway wearing soft pastel yellows, kitten heels and socks, and dramatically puffy sleeves. Her soundtrack floats from Twin Peaks composer Angelo Badalamenti’s “Just You” to Bob Seger’s “Against The Wind,” landing on the sweet sorrow of Linda Ronstadt covering “Desperado.” For fall/winter 14, one model sat in a clawfoot tub eating spaghetti against wall of tiles.

Designer Shueh Jen-Fang’s fall/winter 18 collection featured silks, knee socks, short hems, and giant bows.

This most recent collection sees Jen-Fang’s composite young girl figure grow up, becoming a Working Girl character of sorts.

Specifically, she’s a woman Jen-Fang describes as an “amazing lady” who started her first job in the 80s, during Japan’s bubble economy era. Fang paints a specific picture of this archetypal 80s power woman, 33

[April 2018] a woman balancing responsibility — family, marriage, career — with, perhaps, an unplaceable desire for something more. She’s a small departure from Fang’s nostalgic teen girl muse of previous seasons. “[It’s] very power shoulder and vivid color, a very energetic moment,” the designer says.

“She is full of hope for her life. In the 90s, she tried to give as much as she could to her child. Finally, this lady made a huge mistake in her life. Everything failed.” She explains that the finger and hand accessories take cues from surrealism. “I wanted to show how confusing this lady’s world has become. My muse is always teenage girls, but this time I made my muse more adult...I was inspired by my mum’s fashion and habits.”

The silhouettes of 80s power dressing, borrowing from pop culture references like Designing Women and Princess Diana, are entwined with nostalgia and girlhood in Fang’s designs. She takes this pastel-colored innocence — a look that could almost be too

saccharine in some cases — and adds mischief, humor, darkness, and a touch of the surreal. Previous collections have included shiny, red baby shoes attached to the tops of heels and mice hanging from a shirt, their tails shaped into hearts. One piece from her fall/winter 18 collection is a string of kitschy cookie cans, called “Mum’s Cookie Can Collection,” that can be worn around your neck.

“My mum loves to collect many things,” JenFang says. “She collected all the nice cookie cans, I remember...”

The subversive humor in her collections, from what appears to be an inflatable pool shark wrapped as a dress to a human hand replica attached to a model’s head, is juxtaposed with functionality. In other words, what might be perceived as gimmicky is balanced out by commercially wearable widelegged trousers or a Peter Pan-collared button-up crop top. Fang explained that the dark sartorial quips in her work came from growing up with strict parents and using humor to lighten the mood.

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[April 2018]

raf simons voiced a lot of opinions last night

04

Harvard’s Graduate School of Design has hosted many esteemed guest speakers over the past few years, including Zaha Hadid, Jonathan Franzen, Virgil Abloh, and as of last night, Raf Simons. The Belgian designer was in town this week for a panel discussion alongside his close/ friend collaborator Sterling Ruby, and the requisite can of Coke Zero (Raf is apparently the first guest to request an auditorium beverage rider, but legends are allowed their liberties — apparently Hadid was chain-smoking in the lobby.)

Raf probably would have felt at home in the GSD even without Sterling or the soda. The erstwhile furniture designer studied industrial design before moving into fashion — “let’s give it a shot” — during the era of the Antwerp Six’s group shows in London. “It became something to aspire to, he recalled. Raf was also heavily inspired by the exhi35

bitions of Belgian curator Jan Hoet, whose revolutionary Chambres d’Amis show in Ghent saw famous artworks spread through 59 private homes in Belgium. “Suddenly all this art that we kind of knew was in the domestic environments,” Raf said. “Every since, I got obsessed with art.”

Sterling and Raf’s collaborations also have a similar power to transform our conceptions of space. They designed one of fashion’s first real co-designed collections for fall/winter 14. (“It’s not tagged Raf Simons for that season.

It’s tagged you and me together,” Raf said. Sterling has splattered paint throughout the interior of Raf’s Tokyo boutique, and last year, designed the interior of Raf’s giant new Madison Avenue flagship.

[April 2018]

05 supreme resurrect pinhead in a collaboration with cult comic gorefest hellraiser

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[April 2018] From The Wizard of Oz to Taxi Driver, E.T. to Kids and Scarface to Akira, Supreme’s infinite scroll of collaborators is filled with cinema creative-coming-togethers. Rather than a prized popcorn family-friendly favourite, streetwear’s biggest beast has looked to a cult classic of horror to add a hellish bent to its spring 2018 drop. Thirty years after its release, it’s time to rediscover Hellraiser as its torturer-in-chief Pinhead appears on everything from a trench coat to football jerseys and a skateboard.

So for those of you who haven’t seen the original or any release from the series that followed, what is Hellraiser? Well, it’s a British horror love story that has amused, dis-

turbed, inspired, and repulsed for more than three decades. Based on a short novel by Clive — the British author, playwright and screenwriter who Stephen King declared as the future of horror — the film follows a family who open a mysterious puzzle box and invite hell in to their lives in the form of S&M club-inspired creatures known as Cenobites and led by Pinhead. Upon its release, Hellraiser broke the era’s slasher mold with a unique blend of gore and eroticism.

It’s since expanded into a ten-film franchise and Pinhead — who only had eight-minutes of screen time in the original, yet stole the show — has become an enduring icon of Hellraiser.

So, that’s why Supreme has worked on a capsule collection showcasing imagery from the series.

“I got a good reaction from the S&M crowd — and still do,” Barker explained to the Guardian last year. “I was validating a lifestyle. It was a celebration of the beauty of these strange secret rituals.” Now a new generation can wear this beauty on their sleeves, their chests, their everything. To paraphrase Pinhead himself: “No tears please (if you miss out), it’s a waste of good suffering!”

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[April 2018]

06

‘yellow is forbidden’: the incredible story of guo pei, china’s first couturier In the face of political turbulence and western prejudice, the Chinese couturier makes her mark on the impenetrable world of western haute couture.

By: Hannah Ongley “She really loves the memes,” Pietra Brettkelly laughs. “She found that really hilarious.”

She’s talking, obviously, about the internet photoshopping Guo Pei’s famous “Rihanna Dress” — an imperial yellow, 55-pound, furtrimmed fantasy that took one embroideress two years to make — into a giant cheesy pizza. Also, an omelette, an aircraft evacuation slide, and a Yellow Brick Brick Road complete with the cast of Oz. Brettkelly’s spellbinding new documentary Yellow Is Forbidden gives us two compelling reasons why she loves the memes. Guo Pei the fantasist is a 50-year-old child, boasting a secret collection of 400 teddy bears plus a full-blown slide in the upstairs bedroom of her Beijing salon (more on that later). Guo Pei the couturier, who’s brought to tears by photos of Balenciaga circa Cristóbal, was de-

lighted her Brobdingnagian baby had been given a second chance at life, albeit in the form of pizza. When she debuted it as part of 2009’s extravagantly unwearable “1002 Nights” collection, no model could carry it down the runway in the elegant manner it warranted, leading Guo Pei to deem it “ruined.”

The title of Brettkelly’s film is not explicitly a reference to the dress. It rather comes from a warning Guo Pei’s grandmother gave her as a child growing up during China’s cultural revolution. Yellow was off-limits for commoners, who were expected to wear a drab communist uniform, much to the disappointment of a young Guo Pei, who begged her granny for a yellow dress. The things we can’t have are the ones we want the most. Disenchanted by the spartan communist uniform of her childhood, Guo Pei was seduced by 38

[April 2018] the ornate beauty of Imperial China, eventually making VIP clients of communist party leaders’ wives. But regardless of this success in her homeland, Guo Pei was virtually unknown in the west until the 2016 Met Ball.

Brettkelly’s documentary follows Guo Pei as she creates a collection for Paris Couture Fashion Week, as a guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.

The opening scenes position Guo Pei as an outsider attempting to break into a very exclusive market. This is despite her obvious couture credentials — it takes 2.5 years to make each collection, using a team of 300 embroiderers she had to train herself, because embroidery was considered “feudal” during the Revolution.

Guo Pei loves China, but is aware that it has historically been perceived as a place of manufacturing rather than creativity, not to mention alert to more overtly racist prejudices. As Guo Pei is house hunting in Paris for a salon to receive western clients, she displays a meticulous knowledge of Parisian design, adamant that her building be in the French style.

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[April 2018]

07

this model is trying to save the earth Taja Feistner shares the ins and outs of creating sustainable fashion and art.

By: Ivanka Trump Achieving better sustainability in fashion grows more important each day — especially as the Trump administration scales back environmental protections. We typically expect brands to advocate change in unconventional ways (see: G-Star and Pharrell Williams turning recycled plastic into denim jeans). But a model might be the voice we need. Taja Feistner, who has modeled for brands like Rodarte, Louis Vuitton, and Miu Miu, somehow has also found time to study Energy and Sustainable Policy at Penn State University.

for society,” Taja says over email, speaking on finding the courage to be a vocal model and activist. “There are so many burning issues in this world and everyone’s affected someway by something. We just need to be more comfortable with opening up the conversation.”

Taja has put her lessons to good use by creating her own sustainable clothing line Eka Minetta (launching soon) and crafting artwork out recycled items. “Being a model should be more about being a role model

I grew up in Des Moines, Iowa. I had just dropped out of University of Iowa’s art program and was waitressing at an Italian-American restaurant near Iowa City. A scout came into the restaurant for dinner

First off, can you tell me a little bit about yourself and how you got into modeling?

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[April 2018]

and approached me asking if I was interested in modeling. I wrote it off as some sort of scam but this woman wouldn’t give it up until I gave it a shot. A month later, I moved to LA. Therefore, I attribute my entire entrance into this industry to Monica’s fried chicken the reason she went to the restaurant that night.

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[April 2018]

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[April 2018]

exploration

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[April 2018]

this artist processes surviving conversion therapy with color Stephen Ostrowski

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[April 2018]

When I visit Stephen Ostrowski’s Chinatown studio, I sit on a couch by the window. Bright green and slightly oblong, the sofa looks as though it was plucked from one of Ostrowski’s active and colorful artworks. Some of his pieces are exercises in abstract mark-making. Others are representational, and tend to feature crosses, flames, or flowers — iconography the artist was exposed to growing up in an evangelical missionary community in Thailand.

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[April 2018]

Ostrowski eats breakfast and tacks up drawings while telling me about his time in Southeast Asia. His parents are originally from the midwest. His dad was born in Wisconsin, his mom in Iowa. The family moved to Bangkok when he was in elementary school. “People like me are called third-culture kids,” he explains. “You have a home country, dirt you’re technically from. But you grow up in a completely different culture. So your existence becomes this synthesis of two things that creates this third thing. It’s sort of relative to both, but also isn’t either of them. It makes ‘home’ more a bodily concept for me. My roots are very abeyant.”

As a teenager, Ostrowski was able to explore Bangkok with relative freedom. His parents weren’t as overbearing or rigid as others in the evangelical community. (Besides, he was their fourth child — the rules his sisters lived by had loosened over the years). He rode motorcycles around the city, skateboarded, copped cheap weed.

“The first time I got drunk was underneath a huge trans cabaret,” he says.

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[April 2018]

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[April 2018]

bhutan

the land of monastatries 48

[April 2018]

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