Exploring the secret of happiness in the Eastern Himalayan Wilderness: Thimphu City

Exploring the secret of happiness in the eastern Himalayan wilderness in Thimphu the capital city of

THE KINGDOM OF

BHUTAN

Winter School 2017

TEAM

INSTRUCTORS

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Dr. Anil Kumar Roy, Associate Professosor | CEPT University Prof. Gurpreet Singh Sandhu, Assistant Professor | Lovely Professional University PARTICIPANTS Astha Shah | Avni Suthar | Ayushi Agarwal | Ekta Verma | Gargi Mishra | Gary Naveen | Gaurashi Sawant | Jui Dudhiya | Manush Shah | Prajakta Joshi | Prasenjit Shukla | Savita Jaswani | Shoumik Desai | Shreyash Nandanwar | Shrujal Patel | Smit Patel | Tanya Gunjan | Srinidhi Santosh | Subhashita H.N | Swaliha K.A .| Trisika Krishnamoorthy | Vidita Mundada | Yash Barve The document is prepared as a part of study undertaken for Winter School 2017, CEPT University Data from this book can be used and quoted with due acknowledgement to the authors

CEPT University Kasturbhai Lalbhai Campus Navrangpura, Ahemdabad Gujrat, India Phone: 0091-79-26302470 | Extn: 422,423,430 Fax: 0091-79-26302075 www.cept.ac.in

PREFACE

The key stakeholders that were consulted during the our visits are the Thimphu Municipal Corporation called Thimphu Thromde, Ministry of Works and Human Settlement (MoWHS), Ministry of Culture, Ministry of Health, National Environment Commission (NEC), Royal Society for the Protection of Nature (RSPN), Jigme Dorgi Wangchuck (JDW) National Referral Hospital, Thimphu, Indian Embassy, and Nehru Wangchu Cultural Centre, Thimphu etc. The agencies which were consulted represent largely the Government Departments of Royal Kingdom of Bhutan, Urban Local Body, NGO, Private Sector Organizations and Spiritual Leaders and Service Providers. The individuals who helped us conduct this study in Thimphu are deeply acknowledged.

Communities were approached in the two selected Local Area Planning (LAP) - Tawa and Changzantok being supported by the World Bank and Asian Development Bank (ADB) respectively for the required infrastructures and planning. The general perception of the community was captured by engaging with them in an informal discussion on household income expenditure, assets, credit and saving, daily time use, available basic services, health and hygiene, water and energy use, social interactions and engagement with the government activities. Their level of satisfaction was asked on the scale of 1-5. 1 being least satisfied and 5 being the extremely satisfied. These questions are directly related to the four pillars of GNH of Bhutan i.e. Good Governance, Sustainable Socio-economic Development, Preservation and Promotion of Culture, and Environmental Conservation. A better level of satisfaction has been found in the well-developed LAP i.e. Changzantok near the downtown supported by ADB while TAWA which is the second farthest LAP in the North being newly developing LAP has a relatively lower level of satisfaction as reported by the community. This level of contentment and satisfaction, when converted into the happiness, speaks the truth of the urban society in Thimphu, Bhutan

Anil Kumar Roy Associate Professor Faculty of Planning, CEPT University, Ahmedabad 22 December 2017

Gurpreet Singh Sandhu Assistant Professor LSAD, Lovely Professional University Phagwara, Punjab

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

We are happy to come out with the winter school report on Exploring the secret of happiness in Thimphu: the capital city of Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan. This report is the outcome of relentless teamwork put together by a group of 23 CEPT Students and two of us, combining eight-days intense field visit at Thimphu and its surroundings. As a part of CEPT University's Winter School Programme, this study is conducted primarily using participatory planning methods based on key stakeholders consultations and capturing community perceptions on the impact of glorified Gross National Happiness in an urban context. It has also used reconnaissance survey and observations along with photo documentation to highlight the essential elements of happiness amongst the urban community, particularly in Thimphu city.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

We are deeply indebted by overwhelming response and support given by the following individuals, organizations and entities in completing this study in Thimphu, Bhutan. This report would not have been possible without the help extended by them. We deeply acknowledge their contribution in this report. They are the followings: 1.

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Esha Srivastava, Deputy Chief of Mission, Embassy of India, Thimphu, Bhutan B.D. Choudhary, 1st Officer, Education, Embassy of India, Thimphu, Bhutan Anju Chakravarthy, Director, Nehru Wangchuk Cultural Centre, Thimphu, Bhutan Meghraj Adhikari, Chief Urban Specialist, MoWHS Chador Drupka, Urban Planner, MoWHS Tshering Dorji, Senior Urban Planner, MoWHS Gosar Pemba, Medical Superintendent, JDW National Referral Hospital, Thimphu Lagyen Pejeb, Royal Government of Bhutan Police, Traffic Division J.N. Bhandari, Site Engineer, Royal Government of Bhutan Kinga Wangdi, Coordinator, RSPN Tashi Phuntsho, Coordinator, RSPN Deki Dema, Assistant Communications Officer, RSPN Thinley Norbu, Chief Urban Planner, Thimphu Thromde Ugyen Dorji, Sr. Urban Planner, Thimphu Thromde Kezang Dorji, Urban Planner, Thimphu Thromde Sonam Jantsho, Urban Planner, Thimphu Thromde Khenpo Sonam Bumdhen, Lecturer at the Institute of Science of Mind, Thimphu.

Tashi Yetsho, Programme Officer, Bhutan Middle Management and Hotel Programme, Tshering Gailtshen, CEO, Bhutan Insurance Ltd. Rajni Chaddha, Practicing Urban Planner and Architect, CEPT Alumni Santanu Kundu, Executive Chef, Hotel Druk, Thimphu

We take this opportunity to thank Prof. Vidydhar Phatak, Dean, Faculty of Planning for conceiving the idea of exploring happiness and urban planning in Thimphu City and allowing to anchor this theme through the Faculty of Planning.

We also thank Lovely Professional University, to withstand with our idea of having a joint winter school in Thimphu. The wholehearted support provided by the Dean Ar. Atul Kumar Singla, Chief Architect LPU and HRD are duly acknowledged. Last but not the least, the excellent and timely support provided by SWS team under the stewardship of Prof. Aanal Shah is highly appreciated.

Team, Winter School of Thimphu, Bhutan

OVERVIEW

Bhutan, the land of Thunder Dragon is a landlocked country in eastern Himalayas with a small population of the most contended and

Pic Courtesy: Srinidhi Santosh

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

the happiest people in the world. In this era of global warming and climate change, Bhutan has emerged as an example where carbon foot prints are negative in Thimphu. The magnificent colorful building had resisted shocks of big earthquakes due to its resilience and the people have learnt how to be happy living within the natural milieu. People of Bhutan especially in Thimphu, prefer to have police managing traffic instead of traffic lights. This course intends to explore the wilderness of cultural traits that best suits for the natural abode amidst the happiest human being. The art of living with nature yet progressive in spirit is the major focus of this explorative study. In the shivering winter it is interesting to study and understand about how human interactions with nature has maintained a perfect balance in this picturesque Kingdom of Eastern Himalaya. The study focuses on collecting direct information from the various key stakeholders in the city and its surroundings. It engages with local experts, change makers and the developmental agencies in order to know the details of the city life. Interactions with the local communities has been emphasized to understand the secret of their happiness. This study attempts to apply qualitative, participatory and explorative methods to unwind the happiness quotient of people of Bhutan particularly those living in .the city of Thimphu

CONTENT A. City Level

C. Community Level

Page No. | Topic

Page No. | Topic

Page No. | Topic

1. History

8. Urban layers 9. Neighbourhood in Thimphu

23. GNH Pillar 1 : Governance and

2. Geography 3. Climate and Characteristics Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

B. Neighbourhood Level

4. Culture and Lifestyle 5. Concept of Gross National Happiness

10. Methodology and Scope 11. Mental Map of Thimphu 12. Planning History and Methodology of Thimphu

13. Planning Concept 15. LandUse 18. Mobiltiy 19. Neighbourhood Infrastructure 20. People's Say 21. Issues and Obsevation

Infrasturcture

Integration with GNH Methodology and Scope Stakeholder Consultation Evolution of Governance Structure Current Central Governanace Structure City Governance Structure People's Power in Governance People in Planning Planning Through Local Area Plans Land Pooling Mechanism Infrastructure Grieviance Redressal

39. GNH Pillar 2 :Economy and Time Use

Introduction Scope and Methodology Occupation and Unemployment People's Say !!

Time Use Patterns Expenditure Patterns Sketching Economies

53. GNH Pillar 3 :Social Culture and Life

Introduction Methodology

GNH* Gross National Happiness

73. GNH Pillar 4 :Ecology and Environment

Introduction Environment and Development Development in Thimphu Stakeholder Consultation Town Planning Development in Neighbourhood Royal Society for Protection of Nature - NGO Community Consultation

86. Conclusion 88. Bibliography

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Family Health Education

Interactions

Recreations and Gatherings Religions

Built Forms

Food and Dressings

Literature and Language Celebrations Sports

Art Forms

Sketched by: Shoumik Desai

-Shoumik Desai

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Far away from the planes of dust, Near place where the land escapes, There’s a place where the stars are a bit close, There in the valleys the water dances, A place where there’s a sky, below which the mountains resides.

Where the smile is the only thirst, A perfect place to satisfy your wanderlust, No matter what comes ahead, Or what is left behind, The clouds would still shade you, The sun would still smile.

It’s a place where happiness would find you, And make your life a delight.

HISTORY

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

The early history of Bhutan is shrouded in mystery.

According to ancient Sanskrit works, Bhutan was known as Bhotanta, the word 'Bhot' standing for Tibet and 'anta' meaning the end. In other words, the country at the end of Tibet was described as Bhotanta, the present-day Bhutan. The emergence of monarchy in Bhutan led to political stability in the country. The country went to different leaderships.

Leadership in Bhutan: 1. Monastery rule: Ten monks established Chagri monastery in 1650 A.D led by Ngawang Namgyal. Later it was transferred to Phunakha with 100 monks. Currently it counts to 10,000 monks, as told by Chempu Sonam Bumchen.

2. Monarchy rule: The Bhutanese monarchy was established in 1907 A.D, unifying the country under the control of the Wangchuck family.

3. Constitutional Monarchy: Since the enactment of the Constitution of 2008, the Druk Gyalpo has remained head of state, while the Prime Minister of Bhutan acts as executive and head of government in a parliamentary democracy.

Indian Independence in 1947 led the Government of Bhutan to request the Government of India to open negotiations. In April 1948, a Bhutanese delegation came to Delhi to negotiate a fresh treaty which lasted till August 1949. Prime Minister Nehru assured the Maharaja, of India's goodwill, and emphasised the non-colonial attitude

Page 1

Pic Courtesy: Yash Barve

GEOGRAPHY

Bhutan, country of south-central Asia, located on the eastern ridges of the Himalayas.

The political nucleus of Bhutan is centred in the Paro and Thimphu valleys in the Lesser Himalayan region. Its location between the Assam-Bengal Plain of India to the south and the Plateau of Tibet of southwestern China to the north gives the country considerable geopolitical significance.

Pic Courtesy: Yash Barve

Geographical Characteristics of Thimphu: Total area: 26.1 km2 (10.1 sq mi) Elevation: 2,320 m (7,656 ft) Total population(2015): 104,000 Density: 4,000/km2 (10,000/sq mi) Time zone: BTT (UTC+6) Longitude: 89°38′30″ E Latitude: 27°27′57″ N

Pic Courtesy: Yash Barve

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Thimphu is the capital and largest and the only city of the Kingdom of Bhutan. It is situated in the western central part of Bhutan and the surrounding valley is one of Bhutan's dzongkhags.

The city is spread out laterally in a north-south direction on the west bank of the valley formed by the Raidāk River, which is known as the Wang Chuu. It is the fourth highest capital in the world by altitude and is spread over an altitudinal range between 2,248 metres (7,375 feet) and 2,648 metres (8,688 feet).

CLIMATE AND DEMOGRAPHY The King of Bhutan believed that it was improper for a Buddhist country to confine animals for religious and environmental reasons, so he ordered the closure of the mini-zoo and the release of the animals into the forest. However, the Takin remained rooted to the town and were seen straying in the streets of Thimphu in search of fodder. Hence, an exclusive preserve was created for them to live freely.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

As a metropolis and capital city, Thimphu is coordinated by the "Thimphu Structure Plan", an Urban Development Plan which evolved in 1998 with the objective of protecting the fragile ecology of the valley. This development is ongoing with financial assistance from the World Bank and Asian Development Bank.

Population

2015

Total

116,012

Male

62,365

Female

53,647

Population density (per sq.km)

64.6

Pic Courtesy: Yash Barve

Climate 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 5 0

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JAN

FEB

MAR APR MAY JUN

Min. Temp. (°C)

JUL

Max. Temp. (°C)

AUG

SEP

OCT NOV DEC

Average Rainfall (mm)

CULTURE AND LIFESTYLE Food: Traditional Bhutanese eating habits are simple and, in general, food is eaten with hands. Family members eat while sitting cross legged on the wooden floor with food first being served to the head of the household. Traditionally dishes were cooked in earthenware, but with the easy availability of modern goods, pots and pans have largely replaced their use. A typical Bhutanese meal consists of rice, a dish of Ema Datshi, the country’s favorite dish of chili and cheese, pork, beef curry or lentils.

Men wear the Gho, a knee-length robe somewhat resembling a kimono that is tied at the waist by a traditional belt known as Kera. Women wear the Kira, a long, ankle-length dress accompanied by a light outer jacket known as a Tego with an inner layer known as a Wonju.

Entertainment: The people of city have various ways to entertain themselves by visiting parks, pubs, libraries & outdoor gyms, monasteries. People prefer outdoor gyms, eating out at local restaurant, and karaoke than theatres and cinemas. Bollywood movies and Indian daily soaps are very popular.

Traditions: Bhutan is rich in cultural diversity and this richness is further enhanced by the wide variety of elaborate and colorful religious festivals that are celebrated throughout the country. Every village is known for their unique festival though the most widely known is the annual Tshechu, meaning a religious festival.

Pic Courtesy: Yash Barve

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Clothing:

CONCEPT OF GROSS NATIONAL HAPPINESS The perfect amalgamation of Democratic Monarchy, urban planning, environment and culture plays a vital role in unifying the entire country under the GNH, resulting in a happier healthier and ethical system.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

The King himself introduced democracy before people demanded for it. His highness stressed: 1. Integration of topography in the best possible ways for an organised communication and public assets .

2. Empowering citizens through common public interventions by giving them freedom to influence and impact through as the primary stakeholder.

In spite of rapid modernization, the Bhutanese have grown by keeping all their cultural values and traditions intact.

Unlike other Nations, Bhutan believes in social and emotional well- being of people of the people, that contributes to the GNH. The later part of the book explains upon the four pillars of happiness at neighbourhood level and at community level. The interactions with the people at different levels and key stakeholders has always been at the base of the study. .

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Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan Page 6 Pic Courtesy: Shrujal Patel

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

UNDERSTANDING NEIGHBOURHOOD PLANNING IN THIMPHU

Sketched by: Srinidhi Santosh

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URBAN LAYERS Mixed Use (Ground & Basement commercial, above ground residential) Residential Recreational

Institutional

Land-use map

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Le-meridien Clock tower Changlimithan stadium Taxi Stand National Athletic Stadium

Centenary Children Park

Main town covered

District court

Centenary Farmers Market

Handicraft market

Landmarks

Thimphu city line plan N Road mapping

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NEIGHBOURHOODS IN THIMPHU The capital city of Bhutan- Thimphu has structured its planning under the concept of Local Area Plan (LAP). The city understands the neighbourhood in relevance with the Land polling technique.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

The main criteria of the LAP is – Settlement pattern Concentration of population Environment assets Geographical feature The city is well blended with the amalgamation of culture, traditions, and settlements in the form of 14 LAP The study is conducted with respect to understanding developing and developed settlements. The LAP studied is : Changzamtok

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Pic Courtesy: Winter School Group

METHODOLOGY AND SCOPE The study of the LAP for the neighbourhood parameters deals with understanding of built environment, the mobility pattern and how local people response to it.

The concept of neighbourhood node was undertaken with respect to the amenities available, about the use of the infrastructure , and the citizen particiopation.

The basic aim is to understand the parameters leading to its efficient working capacity.

18-25 25-45 45-60 The age groups were considered as to cover the different pattern of usage and understand on how the neighbourhood caters to the needs of an individual.

It caters to different age group so as to unfold different earning groups and their lifestyle. From each group both the sex are considered for the study.

Pic Courtesy: Yash Barve

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

The samples surveyed were divided in three age groups:

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

MENTAL MAP OF THIMPHU

Sketched by: Vidita Vijay

Thimphu structure plan (TSP)

PLANNING HISTORY & METHODOLOGY OF THIMPHU

Local area plan (LAPs) approved since 2004

Thimphu was selected to be the capital of Bhutan in 1952 but was not officially established as capital of Bhutan until 1961. The reason for selecting Thimphu as capital was due to its strategic location and rich heritage. The city has expanded slowly over the years along river banks and on high ground. Lower plains along the river have also been occupied.

Neighborhood plan

8 LAPs funding from World Bank

14 LAP in total

Under a current development plan for 2027, much of the city will be car-free pedestrian zones. Parks and footpaths will be developed along riverfronts, and no construction will be allowed within 30 metres (98 feet) of a river or stream. City planners also announced that the rule that buildings be constructed to reflect traditional Bhutanese architecture, which was often violated in the past, would be enforced more strictly.

Planning History of Thimphu 1955: Thimphu Established as the Capital 1961: Bhutan's First 5 Year Plan 1964: First Urban Plan - Remained Unimplimented 1986: Second Urban Plan Guided the development through 1990s 1998: Strategic Plan influenced the extension of the Municipal Boundary 1999: Cabinet instruction to make Thimphu a dream city.

2000: Preparation of TSP begins 2003: Approval of TSP 2002 - 2027 Page 12

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

6 LAPs no funding available

The residential area of the city constitutes 38.3% of the total area. In the non-residential area, 9.3% of the city consists of administrative buildings, 4% of commercial establishments, 10.1% is taken up by health, educational or institutional structures, 2% by industrial establishments and 3.8% by security. The remaining 32.5% of the city constitutes dispersed open spaces with vacant lands, which need to be preserved in any future planning and expansion.

PLANNING CONCEPT: THIMPHU The development of the changzomtok LAP is followed in three phases. The entire LAP is divided on the basis of the stages of construction. The three stages are divided with a strong road networks, making these roads the main roads.

Typology- Public/ Private/ Religious

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

The LAP is an amalgamation of various types of building making it a self sustained neighbourhood. Mapping of all the building types was conducted to understand the ratio of built and unbuilt.

Various typology of the building makes the LAP vibrant and mix of all kind of people and catering to all the age groups.

Pic Courtesy: Thimphu Thromde

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PLANNING CONCEPT: THIMPHU

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan Page 14 Source: Thimphu Thromde

LAND USE Cultivated landscape / Agriculture The character of the open landscape is to be preserved in its entirety. As an economic basis for agriculture and tourism, this area is to be spared. Various agricultural uses (e.g. arable farming, orchards, apiculture) are possible. Small-scale structures for agricultural purposes (farming and cattle sheds), as well as access roads, are permissible. The conversion of existing farmhouses for sole residential purposes is not allowed.

River landscape Due to the danger of flooding and the river landscape being worthy of protection, new buildings are not permitted. In the medium term, existing buildings and the resident population should be relocated to the secure areas. Infrastructure to connect both sides of the river as well as footpaths are permitted.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Sacred sites The main value of sacred sites in Bhutan is their cultural richness. Extensions and facilities directly related to the sacred sites are allowed. Basic tourism infrastructure should be provided (e.g. information, toilets). A buffer area around each sacred site should be kept free of any construction.

Main development zone The development zones represent bigger settlement units. The new settlement units are based on the local conditions with regard to settlement typology (villages, clusters) and scale. New constructions should be planned in such a way that clusters of buildings are developed which work well with either the streetscape (open public spaces) or are arranged in communal courtyard-style. The rules pertaining to the number of floors permit two entire storeys. If at least half of the ground floor is used for commercial purposes, three complete storeys are permissible. Public facilities such as schools and kindergartens are also to be planned. Multifunctional parking areas on the periphery of the settlement area for use by the community enable the areas to remain traffic-free pedestrian zones.

Centre zone Within each of the main development areas of Bhutan ,core areas are defined which function as both local and regional centres. These take on functions of local provision and are also important for large-scale public usages (e.g. covered markets, information centers, multi-purpose halls, bus terminals, etc.). There is a high concentration of urban commercial and public usage in the central areas. High-quality public spaces which bring together the various public usages are important (meeting rooms, facilities for social interaction, spaces for intercommunication). Buildings bordering on public areas should correspondingly have public ground floor usages.

Industrial zone The working zone is mainly reserved for commercial and industrial purposes. In the development area of Bhutan, existing workshops will be expanded upon. This area is suitable for smaller and medium-sized handicraft businesses. In exceptional cases, the area may also be used for residential purposes. On the streets there is a need for public commercial areas with a courtyard design in keeping with the area.

All working zones are very easily accessible from the main routes and are of regional importance.

Source: Thimphu Structure Plan 2002 - 2027

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HOUSING TYPOLOGY

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Source: Thmphu Thromde

Page 16

LAND USE Scattered settlement zone These areas are part of the (cultural) landscape, the character of which is to be preserved. The landscape dominates in these areas, the buildings are individual and are scattered at wide intervals. The distance between buildings is mainly historically determined, the usage agriculturally oriented. It is possible to add individual buildings according to the village cluster typology. This zone offers the local population the possibility of a moderate level of development. Since the improving of individual parcels of land is a complex process, the plan aims at collaborative development (access roads, distribution network etc.).

Zone for infrastructure

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

This zone is reserved for the construction of basic infrastructure facilities needed for the advancement of the main development zones. The plan aims at central water supply and disposal (water, wastewater, energy) in the development of larger-scale areas. Locations close to areas subject to flooding must be checked in terms of their usability.

Institutional zone This area includes existing public facilities such as schools, hospitals, government buildings, etc. Expansion, supplementary buildings and transformation of the outside facilities are permissible as long as they resonate with the tone of the area. New public facilities such as schools are, however, also permissible in the three main development zones.

Zone for outdoor activities This zone is reserved for special usages, particularly for sports and tourist facilities in the form of external amenities and buildings (e.g. high altitude sports center).

It is important to integrate these into the landform, for example through campus-like grounds. Sports fields are permitted within the areas subject to flooding, whereas buildings are only permitted outside of these areas.

Hotels and Guesthouses New hotel facilities may not be constructed outside of the settlement areas. The expansion of existing hotel complexes is possible on a conditional basis (individual case review). Small-scale guesthouses and Bed and Breakfasts, and those integrated into the local settlement structure, are to be given preference in the interests of tourism .

Cultural heritage Alongside the protection and preservation of spiritual sites such as Dzongs, monasteries and temples, the preservation of secular buildings of historic interest must also be taken into account. The plan must take heed of how the new buildings surrounding such structures are presented (scale, number of storeys, materiality). It is recommended that an inventory for such buildings be drawn up (of local/ regional/national significance) which will protect the buildings against modification and demolition until such time as a clear statement of protection is in place.

New uses for and dimensions of buildings necessitate further development of architectural terminology. The fundamental formation, facade elements and materiality should be retained. Equally, new technical challenges, usages and scales must be able to be handled in a manner befitting the purpose thus paving the way for a cautiously creative transformation which is indicative of tradition.

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Source: Thimphu Structure Plan 2002 - 2027

MOBILITY The LAP has a structured road network, accessibility within the area is one of the major criteria to regulate the movement pattern.

A typical Cross sections of roads of different hierarchy in an LAP has been shown beside.

Due to the increasing number of the cars in the vicinity the parking spaces of the cars has increased manifold. There is a great amount of congestion and has encroached upon the pedestrian spaces of the road.

The frequency of the cars and buses are sufficient for the efficient travel of the people to the town.

People stand only under these respective signanges to get onto the modes.

Sketched and Images by: Winter School Group

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Observations: Hierarchy of the road network is established- 2 main roads connect the two end nodes of the LAP

NEIGHBOURHOOD INFRASTRUCTURE

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Typology

Age – 18 - 25

Age – 18 - 25

Age – 25 - 45

Age – 25 - 45

Age – 45 - 60

Age – 45 - 60

The concept of neighborhood node majorly focuses on the amenities and infrastructural facilities provided.

A study conducted on various aspects of this facilities was undertaken.

The aspects considered affects the happiness and contentment of the users with the neighborhood planning.

Road Network

4

3

4

3

2

4

Sewage lines

-

-

3

2

4

3

Water supply

2

4

4

4

3

5

Banks / ATM

4

4

5

5

5

5

Police / Security service

5

4

5

5

5

5

Emergency services

5

5

5

5

5

5

Hospital / clinic

5

5

5

4

5

5

Parks / Recreational space

4

4

3

3

5

5

Electricity

5

5

5

5

5

5

Transportation

4

5

5

5

5

5

6 5 4 3 2 1 0

Series 1 Page 19

Column1

Series 3

Sketched and Images by: Winter School Group

People in the Changzamtog neighbourhood prefer walking to all the common facilities in the vicinity. They prefer to use the cabs and the bus when they have to travel to the town area. Winters affect the walking radii of the people to an extent.

PEOPLE'S SAY !!

Family structure and members: Bishal stays in a nuclear family with his parents and 3 siblings.

They own a restaurant in the Changzamtog neighbourhood.

Family structure and members: Pelden belongs to a nuclear family. She has been staying in Thimphu for the last 6 years with her husband and two children.She has been a teacher in the Druk school in the Changzamtog neighbourhood.

Connection with the neighbourhood: Bishal stayed in the Taba neighbourhood for his prior education and has shifted here since a year. He studies physics and likes spending time with his friends in the neighbourhood.

Expenditure: The family expenditure for a month is 4500 Nu. The main chunk is spent for the rent of the hotel.He especially mentions that the expenditure on electricity is more than normal due to the running equipments in the hotel.

Images by: Winter School Group

Name : BISHAL RAI Age : 20 years , male

Challenges: He feels that the number of cars is increasing by the day in the neighbourhood and they must reduce as traffic is increasing. Water shortage prevails and everyday only two hours is available.

Festivals and celebration :Pelden celebrates all the festivals of Bhutan and she really likes to cook for her children and her relatives.She especially likes it on New Years and shupap which is the festival for rainy day.

Expenditure: The family expenditure for a month is 2500 Nu.Pelden has children in primary school and that’s why states that she helps her in saving 15000 Nu every month.

Challenges: Pelden states that the traffic in the road has increased manifold and that going to town areas for recreational activities has started taking more and more time.

Happiness Quotient: Bishal finds happiness in his everyday routine. He meets his friends in the town and visits the nearby stupa memorial everyday.

4/5

Happiness Quotient: Pelden states that the progress in the infrastructure in the neighbourhood has developed fast. She enjoys going to the park with her children in the neighbourhood.She is happy as she says she loves the joys of a simple life.

4.5/5

Images by: Winter School Group

Name : PELDEN TRONGSA Age : 30, female Page 20

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Festivals and celebration : As the family stays close to Indian families they celebrate Diwali with the other families as well. He visits his friends for festivities and believes in sharing the resources.

Connection with the neighbourhood:Pelden stays in a nuclear family surrounded by families of her close relatives. For her the street she stays on is like her own.

PEOPLE'S SAY !!

Family structure and members: Bishnu Sharma is one of the most respected citizens in his lane of the Changzamtog neighbourhood.He is a 56 year old uncle staying in the vicinity since 1986.He stays with his wife whilst his daughter stays in Kerela and works as an Engineer.

Family structure and members: Dukchu Dukpa lives in the Changzamtog neighbourhood with his wife while his daughter is studying Architecture in Noida (India).He has a son who is finishing his school at the Druk public school.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Connection with the neighbourhood: Bishnu is a hindu and he is from the village of Phuntsholing.

He has migrated to Thimphu since 1986.He came here in search of work.

Festivals and celebration : Vishnu being an Indian celebrates all the Hindu festivals.He often visits the Durga temple near his house on a daily basis.

Vishnu states that sharing food over the table is what he likes the most in fextivals.

Connection with the neighbourhood: He has been staying in this neighbourhood for 18 years although he has shifted homes due to reason of tenancy.He worked in the Hospital prior as an optician and now has a shop.

Images by: Winter School Group

Expenditure: The family expenditure for a month is 35000 Nu.He says that the rent of the shop costs him 13000 Nu and that the rent of the household, groceries, bills etc. costs him all that he earns and hardly leaves any surplus for saving. His daughter studies in India which also adds upto his expense.

Expenditure: The family expenditure for a month is 35000 - 40000 Nu. This mainly includes the rent for his 280 sq.ft shop other than groceries, home bills etc. His savings are almost none in the winter season but in the Summer season he saves upto 35000 Nu a month.

Challenges: Owing to the increasing competition in Thimphu he finds it difficult to make a decent livelihood.He finds it difficult to make means in the winter season.

Challenges: In the off season in the winter season he says that a lot of people travel for religious pilgrimages and holidays.This affects his business and savings.Other than this he has no complaints and leads a happy life.

Happiness Quotient: Dukchu says that although his existence is not lavish he is happy undoubtedly. He says that he has embraced this way of living and that when he compares Bhutan to other countries he finds this better.

3.5/5

Happiness Quotient: Bishnu says that amongst the neighbours the environment is of cooperation love and sharing.He believes in a very simple way of living.He states that he is probably the most happy individual in this world because he is contented and satisfied with his life and relatives.

5/5 Images by: Winter School Group

Name : DUKCHU DUKPA .Age : 48 years , male Page 21

Festivals and celebration : Dukchu says that sharing is a common trait in all the homes and that every festival is enjoyed by fellow friends in his house.

ISSUES AND OBSERVATIONS Observation During the initiation of the neighborhood concept, a strong interaction amongst the people could be observed. A well informed and participatory public discussion amongst people has been carried out and an overwhelming response came from people at large.

The road network – a clean and strong road network can be observed leading to no traffic congestion and noise free environment Plot do not have fenced boundaries creating and initiating interaction and free environment in the society.

The planning is done such a way that the topography is well responded. The contours planning is used and the road network divides the planning zones.

Challenges Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

No major concerns could be identified but due to urbanization, increase amount of people a major affect on the carrying capacity was affected.

Increasing vehicular use creating traffic problems for local people, the time consumption to travel has increased leading to day to day problems.

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

GOOD GOVERNANCE

Our responsibilities will always be the first and foremost the peace and tranquility of the nationl the soverignity and security of our country; the fulfilling of the vision of Gross National Happiness; and strengthening of the new system of democracy.

- His majesty the king Jigme Kheson Namgyel Wangchuk

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Pic Courtesy: Prof. Anil Kumar Roy

INTEGRATION WITH GNH Article 9 of Constitution of Kingdom of Bhutan

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

“The state shall strive to promote those conditions that will enable the pursuit of GNH “

Bhutan, a nation governed by the Gross National Happiness has recently made its transition from a complete monarchy to a constitutional monarchy. The ultimate purpose of governance has been to bring well-being and happiness to majority of the people. Hence, governance in Bhutan has always been an integral part of the political structure and a major pillar of the GNH. In doing so, the country has selected elements of a democratic system that best meets it's needs and contributes to its development.

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Pic Courtesy: Shrujal Patel

Thimphu City Zhong, Thimphu

SCOPE AND METHODOLOGY

The governance and its integration with the state’s happiness in the city of Thimphu was also understood with the help of community surveys which was done particularly in a LAP of Thimphu city. The primary surveys were done based on the community interactions which were further sampled according to the three zones. It maybe noted the entire city of thimphu is divided into 3 zones.

Pic Courtesy: Employee of MoWHS

From a meeting with Mr. Meghraj Adhikari at MoWHS, Thimphu

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

This part of the study deals with understanding of the governance system for the city of Thimphu through stakeholder consultations and primary community surveys. Various stakeholders working in the national ministry, civil society associations along with the community peoples were consulted and their views on the concept of good governance and its integration with Gross national happiness index were considered. The consulted stakeholders include Mr. Meghraj Adhikari chief urban specialist from MoWHS, Mr. Tsherij Dorji senior planner from MoWHS, Mr. Sonam Jantsho urban planner from Thimphu Thromde, Mr. Thinley Norbu chief urban planner from Thimphu Thromde, Mr. Kinga Wangdi chief from RSPN, Mr. Khempu Lama the spiritual guru from Central Monastery Body, and the primary surveys from LAPs of Thimphu.

STAKEHOLDER'S VIEWS

“ Development with value is our

motto . GNH for us is a vague concept . Our main focus is to take care of overall development.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

“

“ We as government have

to prioritize what is needed – individual happiness or national development.

“

Tourism is used as one of the major sectors for economy generation. Hence, strict regulations on development have been formulated for the same .For the generation of funds for health and education the government officials contribute approximately 1 percent of salary, since it’s a welfare based governance.

People have been considered as an important part of planning process. Hence , a threefold consultation process is carried out to involve the public opinion to make it a people’s plan . The project affected people are also allowed to express their grievances regarding the proposal through writings.

“ GNH is a broad concept where the majority is taken into consideration for decision making.

“

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The ministry provides an umbrella act , but the main power lies with the mayor . Unlike , other countries plots reserved from land pooling are used for infrastructure development rather than selling it to private developers.

Bhutan being a country in the path of development, the aim of the government is to develop the nation with minimum impact to nature and without compromising the resources.

GNH is more related to happiness of nation rather than an individual.

Physical infrastructure – lacking – low GHN Tradition and spiritual well being – high- High GNH.

STAKEHOLDER'S VIEWS

“Future generations of Bhutan will

live an environmentally sustainable society .

Environment is not something which we have inherited but borrowed from our future generations. Hence, it’s our responsibility to preserve it.

Going according to the vision of the organization, happiness is not limited to just community development but also, environment conservation since it is considered as one of the major pillars of GNH. The NGO limits its role in governance by providing policy recommendations to NEC, apex institution at the national level.

Community vitality + conservation of environment = environment as GNH element.

“There is no statutory act for urban planning. “

“Monarchs are the embodiment of

union of spirituality and secularism.

Until they are there we need not worry.

“

The Thromde has its limitations in decision making as the final authority is with the mayor . The revenue for the corporation is a combination of subsidies from the center and taxes. However , the grants provided by the government is insufficient and the corporation has to generate its own funds.

Considering the system of grievance redressal in planning process, the municipal corporation (Thromde) has to pay the compensation to the project affected people.

The country has a deep rooted concept of tradition and spiritual wellbeing. The monarchs believe in following a dual system of governance which is combining the idea of secularism and spirituality. Central monastery board being a strong pillar of the government has an indirect influence in decision making.

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

“

CENTRAL GOVERNANCE STRUCTURE

There are currently 10 ministeries in bhutan headed by the Prime Minister, that looks after the policy legislations and framework. The ten existing ministeries in bhutan are as follows:

Apart from these ministries, there are certain national bodies like National Land commissions and National Environmental Commission that look after the land banks and environmental protection in Bhutan. The delineation of powers decreases as we move down in the hierarchy from central to local levels. Though they say, its a decentralised system of governance, a stark difference is observed through the primary surveys.

Pic Courtesy: Shrujal Patel

Parliament Building, Thimphu

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

a. Ministry of work and human settlements b.

Ministry of education c. Ministry of health d. Ministry of Agriculture and Forest e. Minor of Economic Affairs f. Ministry of Finance g. Ministry of Foreign affairs h. Ministry of home and cultural affairs i. Ministry of labor and Human Resource j. Ministry of Information and communication

CITY GOVERNANCE STRUCTURE

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

The governance structure of Thimphu city has been sub divided into two broader bodies of elective and executive bodies. The composition of which has been shown in the figure. The elective wing of the Thimphu Thromde are the actual representative from the people of Thimphu, while the five departments of executive wing are responsible for the service delivery, planning and its execution. The mayor acts as the Chairman of the Council and the Executive Secretary acts as the Member Secretary.

The elective wing of thromde consists of Mayor along with their seven councilors. The elective wing, being people’s representative, holds more power in comparison to the executive wing.

The mayor is considered to be the highest authority of the thromde with a power of final decision making for any kind of requirements or changes in any area of the city.

The executive wing consists of five departments as explained, is responsible for planning and provision of services and requirements in these areas. Some of the functions of executive wing are to provide efficient and effective services to the residents commensurate to the growth of the

Thimphu City Corporation

Elected Wing

city and ensure that development occurs in a planned and harmonious manner.

Thimphu throme works on the principle of provision of infrastructure for all. Some of the mission of the Thromde are: i. To serve the residents of Municipality and instil in them a deep civic sense needed for the general well being of all. ii. To ensure a smooth progression of all developmental and other activities within the boundaries of a municipal Corporation, as per the plan. iii. To ensure that all the activities that it undertakes are consistent with policies and laws of the Royal Government to preserve and promote the environment within its limits. iv. To carry out activities that the Royal Government may assign to the best of our ability. v. To ensure proper implementation of the Thimphu Structure Plan, 2002-2007.

Thimphu Thromde is been working upon the provision of services and grievience redressal througn an online portal and different applications, currently there are ten services that thimphu thromde has made online: Mayor

Urban Planning Department

7 Councilors

Development Control Regulations

Executive Wing

Engineering Department

Environment Conservation Department Administrative Department

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i. Building construction approval. Status of application can be tracked online. However, the drawings will have to be submitted in hardcopies. ii. Building occupancy certificate. Need to be renewed annually at a nominal fee. iii. New water line connection iv. Water pipe line shifting v. Main water pipe line shifting vi. Disconnection and reconnection of water vii. Replacement of water meter viii. Upgrading or downsizing of water connection capacity ix. Sewer connection to main sewer line x. Sewage vacuum tanker services. Can avail one free service per year for those who have paid all water and sewer charges on time.

PEOPLE'S POWER IN GOVERNANCE

Where in one side we have looked upon the decentralised powers being given to the urban local bodies, the constitutional reforms of Bhutan also focusses upon giving powers to people to choose their representatives by power to vote.

Elections in Bhutan take place every 5 year both at national and local levels. The registered voters are the eligible voters for the elections of urban local bodies, Mayor is the only elected apolitical member and head of urban local body in Thimphu, across the with 7 council members.

/Source: https://bhutancanada.org/tag/elections-in-bhutan

Thimphu City Elections, Thimphu

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

The only flaw with these powers to vote given to people which came out during primary and secondary surveys are that its only the registered voters that are allowed to vote. But here in case of Thimphu, through primary surveys we got to know that most of the population is a migrant population from different parts of the country. As a result the elections and result gets biased towards a part of population and the concerns of the non registered population remains unheard.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

PEOPLE IN PLANNING Gross National Happiness promotes democracy in a way that facilitates the process of citizens voicing their opinions on various dimensions of their lives to the government. The GNH survey open a channel of communication between the government and society at large. Peoples voices on an array of domains reflected in the GNH index are the practical guiding forces for policy making in Bhutan. GNH acts as a democratic tool, incentivizes people to participate in the public policy decisions. The theory of GNH includes social welfare as a measure of happiness, hence it should be a policy driver, but theory and practice are often not aligned. Certain aspects of GNH are criticised to be too subjective, influenced by political interests or personal interests. Hence public participation practice in city plan is done to the level of finding the balance of the overall vision of the structural plan and people’s suggestions.

People’s opinion on the change in governance: Bhutan is a newly established constitutionalmonarchy. Talking to few experts and understanding their views on this change in governance from absolute monarchy to a more decentralized democratic government, we got a mixed response.

Both the governance system have their pros and cons. The monarchy in context of the kingdom of Bhutan, keeps the dual nature of governance w.r.t secular and spiritual visions intact. The government has undertaken many awareness programs with the help of NGO’s in making people aware in planning, sustainable livelihood practice, education, youth empowerment and healthcare.

Pic Courtesy: Tanya Gunjan

“A monarch government is better suited for Bhutan because of the people’s belief and trust in the visionary king. The current system has given rise to some level of corruption.”- Peter Schmidt- a local architect residing in Thimphu “The democratic government is good because of people’s empowerment by election of people’s representative. It was difficult to mobilise provision of services in the monarchy system. Now the system is more organized. But a major challenge lies in making the people aware of these powers and the insufficient technical know-how of any project or proposal”- Anonymous, an ex-employee of MOWHS.

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PLANNING THROUGH LOCAL AREA PLANS

The administrative region of Thimphu city has been divided into 14 LAPs (table of LAPs).

Each LAP is developed on the concept of “Urban Village” which would prove to be an appropriate unit for the planning purposes, rather than just an administrative ward or a zone. Thus, an urban village would perform the role of both formal and functional unit, which is self-sufficient.

Principles of Local Area Planning These Local Area Plans are prepared based on the cadastral records to i. Accommodation of increased population over the coming decades ii. Distribution of population density in a sustainable way iii. Realization of an efficient public transit system iv. Appropriate patterning of infrastructure services v. The detailed plans of LAPs are prepared on the basis of following criteria: vi. Settlement Pattern vii. Concentration of Population viii. Environment assets ix. Geographical features

The proposed plan is kept open for public suggestion and complaints, and any major grievances, if any, is solved, and the plan is revised. If the plan is found unfit for majority of the committee the plan or the project stands cancelled.

This gives a strong impression of democratic way of participation of the government.

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Local area Plan is the smallest planning and administrative unit in the Thimpu Structural Plan (TSP). The current governance structure connects the upper planning authorities to the bottom to each plot owners and the project affected people. There is proposed formation of a steering committee to monitor each step of the planning process and inclusion of public in decision making. This committee include the electoral head of the planning agency The Thrompon (The Mayor), relevant locally elected representatives The Thimis (counselors), and prominent person for the concerned community and a project manager.

Any planning proposal prepared by the urban planning wing is conveyed to the people by the Thrompon. He is an elected representatives of the people, and a defender of people’s interests.

01 Feasibility Study 02

Approval from the minister (MoWHS)

03 Advertisement of the

proposed Declaration of the Land pooling Area

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

LAND POOLING MECHANISM The execution of proposed Thimphu Structure Plan is done through Local Area Plans. LAP were perceived as a tool to translate the broader goals that are outlined in the structure plan for Thimphu into a practical urban setting by land pooling mechanism. Land pooling mechanism involves appropriating certain share of private land by pooling and readjusting followed by provision of basic infrastructure. In Thimphu, The plot owners of already developed land , who cannot contribute in terms of land-share, contribute through CPRSE (Cash pool resource……). Generally, some share of this appropriated land is sold for commercial purposes by the administrative authority for generating revenue like in the case of TP scheme of Ahmedabad, Gujarat. Unlike this practice the city plan of Thimphu does not allow for any appropriation or selling of plots. This was done because of strong opposition of the people, where they disagreed on the part of selling their share of land for government’s revenue. The Ministry of Works and Human Settlements (MOWHS) has supported the people’s view and has mandated it. This demonstrates the interests of the government are truly in favour of the people. But is that actually the case? The technical wing of the urban planning department, face challenges because of the welfare policy of the state. The Thrombde (municipality of thimphu) loses one of its potential sources for revenue generation from land. The service taxes and thirty percent of the central governments fund become the only source of revenue for the Thrombde for carrying out public works THE BIG QUESTION As per the land pooling policy, a maximum of 30% of an individual’s private plot can be pooled for the provision of infrastructure. The land pooling share of each 14 LAP’s is different, ranging from 5% to 29%. When asked about this indifference in the land pooling share, the senior town planner of the Thimphu Thrombde, Mr Ugyeu Dorji explained that “the larger goals and visions of the TSP are given priority over individual satisfaction in some cases. Also there is no requirement of pooling extra land, where the plan doesn’t propose to do so. Sometimes people have to compromise, for larger development goals”. This phenomena poses a question of equity for a citizen of Thimphu whether this imbalanced share of land justified? Whether larger city visions should be given priority over ………..

LAP in Thimphu

PUBLIC PARTICIPATION

04

Preparation of the Local Area Plan (LAP)

05 Public notification on Draft LAP 06 Public consultation

07 Preparation of final LAP 08

LAP implementation

09

Grievance addressal

6 LAP’s

Formal Approval Needed

Serbithang, Zilukha, Hejo-Samtenling, Jongshina-Pamtsho, Upper Taba

No Fund

14 LAP’s Prepared and approved

3 LAP’s 8 LAP’s Implemented

Dechencholing, Langjophakha &Lower Taba

4 LAP’s

Babes, Semtokha, Lungtenphu & Changbangdu

1 LAP

Changzamtog LAP

agencies like Asian Development Bank (ADB) and World Bank. But availing of loans from these institutions is also a major hurdle for the planning authority because of strict requirements of Social impact Assessment, which are a requisite for availing loans from these financial institutions.

Current state of LAP’’s The 14 LAPs (including the case deliberated in this case study) are spread across the 26 sq km city area. Eight LAPs are located in the southern part of the city while six are in the northern part. This is dependent on the size of LAP, number of landowners, willingness to participate, capacity of the municipality, fund for infrastructure etc. Smaller LAPs with less number of landowners are easier to handle. Wherever there were active local representatives it was easier to get consensus. The skills, knowledge and capacity of local government are also very crucial in taking the projects forward. Moreover, if there is no committed funding for infrastructure investment it also becomes a disincentive to push the project forward.

The welfare policy of the state puts a pressure on the Thrombde’s exchequer. No land for commercial sale for the revenue generation, insufficient revenue from taxes, and minimum contribution from the state, deprives the Thrombde of any major revenue source. It also limits its scope in terms of execution due to lack of funds. Here lies the irony where the urban planning authority is planning to meet Source: geleynorbu.wordpress.com the broader development vision of the country, but with no strong powers. Hence, The Thrombde has to rely completely on concessional loans from international Page 35

At least twice

meetings

INFRASTRUCTURE WATER

We almost get free water 24*7. We filter it on our own and use it without any issue.

Ugyen Sonam, 32 Water freezes during winters and we don’t get it for days at times. We then have to depend on stored water.

Pema Choden, 27

Citizens of Thimphu are primarily dependent on river streams for consuming water for various domestic and drinking purposes. Thromde (Thimphu Municipal Corporation) ensures clean drinking water for its people by treating it and supplying piped water to households. Whereas in the uphill areas, people draw raw water from the streams. According to recent surveys, about 99.5% households have access to improved water sources.

Frozen water in pipes during winters increase dependency on stored water. Similarly, water becomes muddy during summers and lacks proper treatment.

Pic Courtesy: Prasenjit Shukla

Therefore, considering various pros and cons, citizens of Thimphu were asked to rate their satisfaction level on the scale of 1 to 5 for service delivery of water supply system. Overall, people seemed satisfied with the governance of water related infrastructure in the city as average rating was 4.5 out of 5.

Pic Courtesy: Prasenjit Shukla

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Water being a public good is supplied at nominal flat annual charges which includes sanitation charges also. This shows that government investments are high in this sector with very less revenue sources and difficult cost recovery. Apart from this, unfortunately few seasonal issues were also identified during primary surveys with public.

INFRASTRUCTURE

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

SANITATION WASTEWATER

Efficient management of wastewater and solid waste is one of the ways to ensure community level sanitation. A recent survey of Thimphu city reported at 92% households have access to improved sanitation facilities (Kuensel, 2017).

Thromde is making efforts to provide sewer lines in newly developing areas and connecting it with the traditional septic tanks of core city. Since laying of sewer network is a major issue in hilly terrains, it is a major challenge for both government and people. Citizens have to face temporary issues such as difficulty in commuting and pollution.

At present, all the sewage goes to the stabilization pond operated and managed by Thromde. A new Danish Ecoline Sewage Treatment Plant (STP) project has been proposed by the government which will be operational after a year or so. Since Thimphu city has plenty of freshwater sources, no specific reuse provisions of wastewater or sludge exist at present.

Apart from this, most people still use traditional septic tanks, which are cleaned by TMC trucks.

Since Thromde has only 2 suction trucks and no outsourcing mechanism at present, people often face delays in receiving the service.

For both water and wastewater sectors, Thromde is dependent on funds and grants by central government due to lack of revenue sources. The average satisfaction score given by Thimphu residents for wastewater management service delivery in the city is 3.8 out of 5.

Because of digging of roads, there is dust around and it becomes difficult to walk and drive.

Tashi , 32 Even if we complain on emergency basis, it takes few days for government vehicle to come and clean our septic tank.

Kzen , 35

Pic Courtesy: Prasenjit Shukla

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INFRASTRUCTURE

MOBILITY

We have our own car, we travel everywhere through it. It is difficult to walk when it gets too cold”.

- Tshering Yetshi , 28

Pic Courtesy: Prasenjit Shukla

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Pic Courtesy: Prasenjit Shukla

With modernization knocking the door and city’s expansion taking place linearly, mobility plays a crucial role. Presently, transportation sector has the largest share in non-food expenditures for households of Thimphu (25.2%). In terms of public or para transit transport mode, Thimphu is highly dependent on private taxis and few public buses.

Although, one will see high number of pedestrians on streets of Thimphu, but number of 4-wheelers have increased drastically in the past few years.

Due to this, vehicles were reported to be the main polluter in the country. About 64% of greenhouse gas emission is due to the commercial vehicles (Kuensel, 2017). As per the reports, Thimphu city air has more than 40 μg/cu.m of PM10 concentration which is twice the WHO guidelines limit of 20 μg/cu.m and more than European Union (EU) standards as well.

Citizens were found to have concerns about increasing traffic and congestion especially in core city area having narrow streets and strict regulations. Due to this, Thromde has initiated PPP based project of Multi-level car parking in inner city area. Also, road map developed

by National Environment Commission (NEC), proposes policy measures related to improving fuel standards, vehicle emission standard enforcement and restricting future import of diesel-powered cars and light vehicles of less than 3.5tons. When citizens were asked to rate governance related to mobility sector, average score turned out to be 4 out of 5.

INFRASTRUCTURE

SOLID WASTE MANAGEMENT

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

People and private sector participation is an integral part of solid waste management for keeping Thimphu city clean. Collection and transfer of solid waste from households has been outsourced to two private agencies: Clean Bhutan and Green Away, which collect wet and dry wastes separately on separate days 4 times a week (2 days for wet waste, 2 days for dry waste).

On Monday and Wednesday Thromde vehicle comes to collect wet waste and on Tuesdays and Thursdays, they collect dry waste from our home Tashi , 35 Fortunately Thimphu city does not generate lot of waste, therefore it is easier for us to manage till now.

Thromde has done a good job in making citizens aware about the importance of segregation and 3Rs. But a major challenge faced by the government at present is the over utilized land fill site, for which Japan based consultants are hired to prepare a new plan.

Thinley Norbu Chief Urban Planner, Thimphu Thromde

On asking satisfaction level of people on SWM, the average score observed was 4 out 5.

Pic Courtesy: Shrujal Patel

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GRIEVIANCE REDRESSAL

"We have to go to Thromde to register our complaint. It sometimes takes weeks for them to resolve it." - Dr. Krishna

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

The primary way in which citizens of Thimphu city file a complaint to its Municipal Corporation is by manually submitting their application. The days have been assigned by the Thromde when citizens can come and file their grievances in person. The complaints could be related to water supply, property disputes, on-going construction activities, electricity etc. Thromde then tries its best to redress their complaints at the earliest. Provision of E-Governance services is at its early stage which offers Government to Consumer communications (G2C). Through Thromde mobile app, developed

by G2C Office under the Prime Ministers Office of Bhutan in collaboration with Thimphu Thromde, “In pursuit of Improving Public Service Delivery�, citizen can make payments of taxes and fees. But, grievance redressal is still done manually and has a scope of developing further in order to avoid delays.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

ECONOMY AND TIME USE

GDP is not a good measure of economic performance, its not a good measure of well being.

- Joseph Stiglitz, Economist

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Pic Courtesy: Shrujal Patel

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

INTRODUCTION Thimphu is the capital city and is the economic hub of Bhutan. The city is bustling with various commercial activities, both formal and informal.

Thimphu is the most modern city in Bhutan with an abundance of restaurants, internet cafes, nightclubs and shopping centers, however it still retains its’ cultural identity and values amidst the signs of modernization. Thimphu is one of the few towns in Bhutan that have been equipped with ATM banking facilities and is a good place to stock up on some currency.

Apart from several tourist spots, the city has markets that sell goods manufactured locally. There are weekend markets where the vendors sell fresh fish, meat, fruits, vegetables, datse, and other goods, therefore of residents of Thimphu have access to fresh edibles only during the weekends, during the course of the week they procure packed or frozen food from the supermarkets available closest to them.

Pic Courtesy: Gary Naveen

Due to rapid urbanization, there are several supermarkets selling imported products. Based on our field survey, we found out that most of the goods are imported from India owing to the fact that India has subsidized export rates for The Kingdom of Bhutan.

Major economic strength of the country lives in the hydropower production, tourism and export of raw materials across the southern border with India. More than 60% of the Bhutan economy depends on aid from India and the remaining from organisations like United Nations, World bank and Asian Development Bank along with certain projects funded by Japan, Switzerland and Denmark.

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Pic Courtesy: Gary Naveen

METHODOLOGY AND SCOPE Methodology: The methodology adopted for the study is a combination of desk research and field verification. a. Primary research/field verification: The information collection on the supply side consisted of consultations with relevant government agencies (ministries, autonomous agencies and dzongkhags). The consultations consisted of both individual interviews and focus group discussions (FGDs).

procurement by the government ministries, autonomous agencies and dzongkhags. ii. Demand side research was limited to field surveys carried out in Thimphu. Further, the FGD was limited to suppliers in Changzamtok, the LAP under study.

On the demand side, following methods were applied to collect data from local enterprises: i. One-on-one meetings with stakeholders ii. Focus Group Discussions (FGDs), and iii. Field surveys (market behavior)

Limitations:

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

b. Secondary research/desk research: Under the desk research, review of both national and international reference materials (both offline and online), were conducted.

This procedure helped to narrow down the focus of the study to big public procurement spend items.

Narrowing the focus of study on demand side helped to narrow down the supply side focus, and it was particularly beneficial, given limited time and resources to complete the assessment.

The limitations of this research include: i. Supply side research was limited to review of

Pic Courtesy: Shrujal Patel

Page 44

OCCUPATION AND UNEMPLOYMENT Occupation

Unemployment

Contributors to Economy

Policies, Regulations, Planning interventions and implementation of the government measures forms a major employment concentration. Settlement pattern in economic districts of the city gives it a clear clustered pattern.

According to the Bhutan Living Standards Survey (BLSS-2017), the unemployment rate in Thimphu stands at 6% which is highest in the country with the country’s rate at just 2%. This survey was conducted by the National Statistics Bureau in the months of March and April 2017.

The Basic two types of contributors to economy of the Thimphu city are

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Agriculture and animal husbandry still employs over 60% of the workforce. Although the urbanisation is at a very faster rate, manufacturing sector contributes very small part of the economy.

Among the occupational statuses it is found that large proportion of employed are own-account workers making 61% and quarter of them are regular paid workers. In the city, most of the employed are regular paid employees.

Formal Sector Informal Sector Formal Sector – Government offices, Banking, Commercial Markets, Retail Shops, Wholesale Shops.

Informal Sector – Retail Markets, Wholesale Markets, Street vendors.

Based on the discussions with stakeholders it is found that financial sectors contributes major part towards the economy of the city.

Formal Sector

Informal Sector

1. Bhutan Insurance Ltd.

1. Bhutan Women Enterprise Association Markets

2. Paday Bistro

2. Fruits and vegetable Vendors

3. National Memorial 3. Other Informal Vending Activites 4. Clinics, Pharmacies, Ancillary Health Services

5. Supermarkets 6. Hardware Shops Page 45

Source: Newspaper of Thimphu

Pic Courtesy: Gary Naveen

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan Page 46 Pic Courtesy: Gary Naveen

PEOPLE'S SAY !!

Family Business- furniture making (primary occupation).

Family size: 3 (Adults:2, Infant:1)

TASHI GORJI MALE, 30

Number of working members: 2 HH income: 25,000 per month

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Expenditure per month (All values in Nu.) (i) Food: 5000-6000 (ii) Shelter: 5000 (Rent) (iii) Clothing: 1000-2000 (iv) Travel: 100-200 (v) Health : 300

Pic Courtesy: Gary Naveen

Page 47

(vi) Education: Nil - Savings per month: 11,000 (Approximate) - Secondary job- weaving ( Sesho weaving), selling costs 80,000-90,000 and takes three months to complete.

New born insurance Nu.35 per year (mandatory), if the child’s name is included in the census.

Level of satisfaction: 3.5

PEOPLE'S SAY !!

JHANA TSHONG FEMALE, 25

Family size: 7 (Adults:4, Infant:3) Number of working members: 3 HH income: 15,000 per month Expenditure per month (All values in Nu.) (i) Food: 5000 (ii) Shelter: 4000 (Rent) (iii) Clothing: 1000 (iv) Travel: 100 (v) Health : 300 (vi) Education: 5000 per annum Savings per month: Nil Secondary job- Nil New born insurance Nu.35 per year (mandatory), if the child’s name is included in the census for three children.

Level of satisfaction: 2.5

Pic Courtesy: Gary Naveen

Page 48

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Family Business- Food stall sponsored by the Bhutan Association of Women Entrepreneurs’ (primary occupation).

PEOPLE'S SAY !!

PEMA KARZI DEMA

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

FEMALE, 18

Family Business- Wholesale store (primary occupation).

Family size: 4 (Adults:2, Children: 2)

Pic Courtesy: Gary Naveen

Number of working members: 2 HH income: 100,000 per month Expenditure per month (All values in Nu.) (i) Food: 7000 (ii) Shelter: 8000 (iii) Clothing: 2000 (iv) Travel: 100 (maximum) (v) Health : 1000 (vi) Education: 7000 per annum Savings per month: 35,000 Secondary job- Nil New born insurance not paid Level of satisfaction: 4 Page 49

Pic Courtesy: Gary Naveen

TIME USE PATTERNS Time-use and balance Time-use is the mean time spent on, Work and related activities Non-work and related activities Cooking and eating Sleeping Praying Other activities

Non- work related (hours)

Religious (hours)

Cooking & eating (hours)

Sleeping (hours)

Tashi Gorji

8

2

1

2

10

Jhana Tshong

9

2

1

2

9

Pema Karzi

10

2

2

3

7

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

It is clear from the GNH report that the time spent on Work and related activities increase with decline in non-work related activities. Time spent on Cooking and eating is decreased with spending more time on Praying and sleeping. This shows that the city is economically driven year by year with people spending more time on work related activities.

Respondents Work related (hours)

Page 50

EXPENDITURE PATTERN

EXPENDITURE PATTERN 120000

Expenditure Satisfaction

pattern

and

Level

of

100000 80000

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

The economic status directly influences the level of satisfaction of the inhabitants of Bhutan. According to the Bhutan Living standard Survey (2017), the people who are categorised as “non- poor� were found to have much higher satisfaction levels resulting in the increase in the level of happiness.

60000 40000 20000 0

INCOME

A similar trend is observed in our LAP, the respondents with higher levels of income tend to save more and feel better satisfied with their current economic status.

Therefore, the economic status of an individual or a household influences the level of satisfaction thereby resulting in an increase in the GNH.

EXPENDITURE TASHI GORJI

JHANA TSHONG

SAVINGS PEMA KARZI DEMA

Level of Satisfaction 4.5 4 3.5 3 2.5 2 1.5 1 0.5 0

Page 51

Tashi Gorji

Jhana Tshong

Pema Karzi

SKETCHING ECONOMIES Each sketch tells us about the different contributor to the economy of the city. The Changzamtok sketch tells how government gives importance to the women empowerment and how NGO plays a vital role in it.

The Norzi lam road sketch tells us how small scale retail shops contribute to the economy in such a busy road surrounded by hotels and restuarants.

Sketches by: Gaurashi Sawant

Sketches by: Gaurashi Sawant

Page 52

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

The sketch below is the Sunday market that works only on the weekend. This gives an idea about how the trade and market economy contributes to the economy of the city in weekdays and weekends.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

SOCIAL, CULTURE AND LIFE

Culture is a cluster of intangibles and tangble aspects of life passed down from generation to generation.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

Pic Courtesy: Prof. Anil Kumar Roy Page 53

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

INTRODUCTION Bhutanese culture and Buddhist influence go handin-hand. The influence of religion is highly visible in every day life and is a major reason for Bhutan’s spiritual and cultural legacy. The hundreds of sacred monasteries, stupas, religious institutions, prayer flags and prayer wheels make Buddhism a faith that nowadays still is very alive and probably always will be in the kingdom.

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Not only this makes Bhutan a very authentic country; it is also because of the traditional woven garments the people wear, the typical robust yet refined architecture and the splendid cultural festivals which are steeped in Buddhism. All of these combined make Bhutan into a unique cultural setting.

METHODOLOGY AND APROACH The purpose of the study was to gain insights about one of the pillars of the Gross National Happiness concept in Bhutan i.e. socio cultural vitality

Approach The common people and learned expertise were the respondents who were interested to co operate.

To collect data, we attended expert lectures and used in depth interview method.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Sampling Method In depth interview procedure for this study was limited to one community of Thimphu city. The interviewee was all residents. We figured out different aspects related to Gross National Happiness. Our study was restricted to socio cultural aspects and heritage insights Data collection Method – the secondary data was collected from different websites, expert lectures.

The primary data was deducted from in depth interviews of the stakeholders and communities.

Page 57

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

FAMILY Family structure in Thimphu, Bhutan is usually nuclear as people prefer to move from various parts of Bhutan in thimphu as it as the capital and job opportunities are more.

Permanent residents of thimphu still prefer to stay in joint family which still retains their culture.

Most of them who are migrants from nearby villages lives rent, results in nuclear families.

Marriage, the main social custom is a simple affair in Bhutan. All marriages need to be registered legally under law

They happily stay together with ultimate level of understanding and satisfaction with the family, relatives and neighbours

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Both the types of families prefer to have meals together with the family to share daily talks and activities updates in their traditional styles i.e. cross legged and prefer to have traditional food i.e.

Thukpa, Ema Datsi etc. as well as modern food also i.e Pizzas,Burgur etc.

HEALTH System

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

According to Ministry of Health (MoH). The MoH aims to achieve universal health coverage by improving access to quality and equitable health services, strengthening preventive, promotive, curative, rehabilitative and palliative health services, and promoting efficiency and effectiveness in the financing and delivery of health services.

Its vision is “a nation with the best health”. Basic public healthcare is free, as reflected in the Constitution of Bhutan: “the State shall provide free access to basic public health services in both modern and traditional medicines”.

HEALTH ADMINISTRATION OF BHUTAN/ THIMPHU 1.National referral hospitalJigme dorji Wangchuk, hospital

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

HEALTH RELATED ISSUES Shown above are the diseases that can not be cured and hence the mortality rate is still high to unavailability of proper medical services. By Annual report 2016, Thimphu,Bhutan

Priority health problems / disease (morbidity,2016)

2.Regional referral hospitala.Eastern b.WesternBoth regional and national c.central

Neonatal jaundice

3.District hospital a.Basic health care unit (grade I) with bed b.Basic health care unit (grade II) without bed

Septicaemia or sepsis Alcohol liver diseases

Cholelithiasis

Pneumonia organism unspecified

Pneumonia, organism unspecified

Cerebrovascular diseases

Calculus of kidney and ureter

Nencephaliaties, myelitis

Mental and behavioural disorders due to use of alcohol

Acute and chronic renal failure Disorders related to short gestation and low birth weight

Acute appendicitis

Bacterial sepsis of new-born

Tuberculosis

Tuberculosis

Cerebrovascular diseases Bacterial sepsis of new born Inguinal henia Page 59

Priority health problems/disease (mortality,2016)

Meningitis Birth asphyxia Congenital malformation or cardiac cepta Liver and intrahepatic bile duct cancer

Position

Male

Female

Total

Doctors

66

47

113

GDMOs

13

17

30

Specialists

40

24

64

HA & Clinical officers

13

6

13

Nurses

91

296

387

OT Technicians

18

20

38

Laboratory technicians & technologies

45

42

87

Dental technicians and hygienist

18

21

39

ENT technicians

6

7

13

Pharmacists and pharmacy technicians

14

21

35

Physiotherapist and technicians

11

10

21

Radiology technicians

27

7

34

Ophthalmic technicians

6

6

12

Ortho technicians

7

3

10

Dieticians

1

2

3

HISC staff

2

3

5

Non lab and non clinical staff

83

72

155

Support staff

60

96

164

Total

478

659

1131

HEALTH STATUS OF DISEASES In 2016, the hospital registered total number of 497, 604 patients in various departments. The number of patients availing service at JDWNRH was highest in August , (50,399) andlowest in February, (673) A total of 17,523 patients were admitted and 681 deaths.

Hospital statistics

2014

2015

2016

Bed strength

350

381

381

In-patient admission

18,560

16,487

17,523

Bed occupancy rate

72%

89%

82%

Average length of stay

4.83

6.09

6

Mortality

3.21%

3.71%

3.88%

Source: Annual Report 2016, JDW National Refferal Hospital, Thimphu Page 60

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Adjacent table shows the number of people recruited in every department and specialties including technicians. Further the table also shows the hospital statistics that include bed strengths etc.

EDUCATION Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

System Education in Bhutan is free. However, parents pay a small token fee towards the welfare of the students. (Primary students: Nu.30, Lower secondary students: Nu.100, Middle/Higher Secondary: Nu.200). Students also need to buy uniforms for the schools.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

There is also the travel cost when children graduate from Primary Schools and need to move into the Lower Secondary schools as boarders.

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

As Bhutan is located in high altitude, the communities are yaks and cattle herders the demand for more helping hands at home pressure parents to keep children at home.

Parents from economically weaker background tend to withdraw their children from schools.

As the education is free, economic weaker class people tend to admit the child into the government school and other admit into private schools. Private schooling is also available in Thimphu. Both offer almost same curriculum and subjects but difference in quality of teaching can be seen.

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

Page 61

EDUCATION Issues in education

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

The Government has been struggling to meet the demand for seats in the schools.

Quite often schools are over stretched beyond their capacities. School sizes have doubled but facilities remained the same.

This definitely would impact the quality of education provided.

Due to lack of awareness many students from these schools drop out as soon as they become physically fit to help their parents.

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

Page 62

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Along with this issue, the associated issues are employment opportunities for students after the basic education. Further, the relevancy of curriculum to prepare students for the world is a serious concern. The other major challenges are sustaining the free basic education.

INTERACTIONS AND NETWORKS People know everyone so properly and the level of interaction is very high. They prefer to stay connected with all the other relatives by attending various function or meet them on traditional days.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

They also find time to talk to everyone and especially neighbour's here are like a extended family. They tend to share happiness and also help each one of them in bad times too.

There are also small restaurants where different small group of people gather everyday for daily chit chat after work and traditional as well as modern food is served. These small restaurants are owned by the local people at their houses as a business.

Evening timings are the best time for them to gather as many of them comes after job hours.

Page 63

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

RECREATION & GATHERING HARMONY The Bhutanese local people are very tolerant who love to live their lives with peace and harmony.

People strictly abide to all rules and customs.

There is quite an acceptance for other religion as hindu festivals are also celebrated throughout the year.

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

They are very welcoming and cooperative as they offered lot of assistance during our survey with a cup of tea.

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

Page 64

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

The king himself celebrates durga puja and they believe to be their protector.

These people have a very simplistic life away from the materialistic comfort and are quite happy in what they have.

RELIGION Bhuddhism Dominates

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

The religion in Bhutan continues to be a large part of everyday life. Majority of people in Bhutan practice Buddhism and some of them are Hindus and Christians. Hindus and Christians also follow and respect Buddhism with the respective religions.

Thimphu has also got one Durga temple for Hindu followers in the rule of 4th Royal king rule. Apart from various Bhutanese festivals, Diwali, Dussehra and Christmas are also celebrated with one day holiday in Thimphu, Bhutan. King also celebrate all these festivals with local interaction with the common people.

Page 65

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

CULTURE AND HERITAGE

The buildings are divided into two typologiesTraditional and Contemporary. There are certain Architectural guidelines in Bhutan Building code that give all the details how certain building elements are suppose to be constructed . This is done to preserve the traditional housing system that depict the culture of Bhutan. It also gives an uniformity in the elevations of all the buildings.

Stone masonry for construction is prominent in East and rammed wall construction is prominent in West. New construction materials are now replacing these methods like concrete and steel.

Department of Culture and Heritage plays a major role in conservation of Heritage sites. For better working , the heritage sites are divided in 3 types – Heritage buildings, Cultural Sites (settlements including landscape) and Archaeological sites.

An inventory is already prepared on guidelines and procedures for conservation of heritage sites but the bill is yet to be passed. Incase of any renovation, demolition or changes at these sites, a prior assessment is done by the Department of Culture and then only the action is taken.

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

Page 66

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

HERITAGE SITES

FOOD AND DRESS

People mostly eat together in a same table and starting with short prayer. People prefer to have food while sitting cross legged.

Ema Datsi (Made from Cheese and Chilli), Kiva Datsi (Cheese and Potato), Rice, Momos are famous cuisine of people.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Now a days also prefer Indian as well western food.

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

Bhutan has unique traditional dress. People mostly wear their traditional cloths in Daily work. All Government officials, in public gatherings, festivals they follow traditional clothing.

Men wear the Gho, a knee-length robe somewhat resembling a kimono that is tied at the waist by a traditional belt known as Kera. Their pocket will help to store small Books, mobile, Tab etc in daily use.

Women wear the Kira, a long, ankle-length dress accompanied by a light outer jacket known as a Tego with an inner layer known as a Wonju.

Page 67

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

LITERATURE AND LANGUAGE Bhutan have national Language “Dzongkha� called as the language of the fortresses.

People know Hindi and English as many tourists come.

As of diverse culture of Butan, many Nepali and Indian people also speak their local language Mangdip, Hindi.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

Page 68

CELEBRATIONS Festivals Here are major festivals celebrated in Bhutan.

Tshechu, meaning “day 10� are yearly religious Bhutanese festivals held in each district of Bhutan.

Tschechus are held to honor Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava), who brought a Tantric form of Buddhism to Bhutan in 8th century.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Thimphu Tshechu This three-day festival is a welcomed reprieve from work. During the festival, people pack into the courtyard of the Tashichho dzong (fortress), a dancing stage is erected, and mask dances, often with a religious significance, are performed.

Jambay Lhakhang Drup Traditional and mask dances are performed to honour Guru Rimpoche and to celebrate the establishment of the Jambay Lhakhang Monastery.

The fire ceremony, Mewang, is considered the highlight. The other notable event is the Tercham (Dance of Treasure), where masked dancers perform naked in the middle of the night. They believe this dance will bless infertile women so that they may bear children

Page 69

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

CELEBRATIONS Festivals: Punakha Drubchen

Haa Summer Festival Set in a stunning location in the wilderness with views of the Himalayan landscape, the 3rd Haa Summer Festival gives visitors an in-depth picture of the lives and culture of the nomadic herders living in Haa Valley. It’s a happy and lively celebration of traditional Bhutanese culture, sports, and religion.

Tourists can participate in some of the local sports (such as yak riding), try the local cuisine, or dance to their ancient folk songs.

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

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Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

What makes Punakha Drubchen different is the dramatic recreation of a scene from the 17th century battle with the Tibetan army. The local militia men (pazaps), dressed in battle gear, reenact the encounter. It’s to remember when the village districts in Bhutan came forward and managed to drive the Tibetan forces out of the country, bringing newfound internal peace and stability. The Punakha Tshechu is held immediately afterwards.

SPORTS

Archery is Bhutan’s National sports. People practice archery in a sports ground named as Changlimithang, Thimphu. It is played during religious holidays, local festivals (tsechu), Public holidays and many other occasion.

People have also started adopting different games like Basketball and Football.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

Page 71

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

ART FORMS

Tenzin Rabgye said “Zorig Chusum� meaning The thirteen arts for traditional arts and handicrafts of Bhutan.

This consists woodwork, stonework, slate and stone carving, papermaking, weaving and tailoring.

Traditional market in Thimphu is famous for Handicraft and Arts collection.

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Pic Courtesy: Manush Shah

Page 72

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

ECOLOGY, ENERGY AND WATER USE: PROTECTION, AND PRESERVATION

The first law of ecology is that everything is related to everything else.

- Barry Commoner

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Pic Courtesy: Astha Shah

INTRODUCTION Introduction Natural environment is the base of development of the human settlement and progress. Nature provides the setting for the blooming of all human interventions. The healthy interaction between natural environment, natural resources and humans play a major role in shaping the earth. Justice to use of energy and water plays and important part in sustaining the nature for the future generations.

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Methodology

Pic Courtesy: Astha Shah

The study on the community and stakeholder consultation on ecology, energy and water was done in stages. Initially a study was done on how ecology, energy and water becomes one of the pillars of GNH of Bhutan. The importance of the same was studied in detail. Later Questions were prepared for different groups. For the stakeholders questions related to governance, policies, acts and implementation were prepared. For the community consultation questions related energy use, water management, agriculture practices were framed. On reaching Bhutan, firstly a meeting with National Environment Commission was held. After which meeting with the town planner was conducted. Followed by the meeting with the NGO-Royal Society of Protection of Nature. After understanding the stakeholder views and steps of implementation community consultation was held at Changzamtok LAP. The views and part of the community was understood and the level of happiness was noted.

Page 75

Pic Courtesy: Astha Shah

ENVIRONMENT AND DEVELOPMENT

Pic Courtesy: Astha Shah

The ecosystem in Bhutan is diverse, because of its location, great geographical and climatic variations. Bhutan’s high, rugged mountains and deep valleys are rich with spectacular biodiversity, making one of the world’s ten most important biodiversity ‘hotspots’. For centuries, Bhutanese have treasured the natural environment and have looked upon it as the source of all life. This traditional reverence for nature has delivered Bhutan into the 21st century with an environment still richly intact. The country wishes to continue living in harmony with nature and to pass on this rich heritage to its future generations. Knowing the importance of the natural environment, Royal Government of Bhutan takes its conservations at the heart of its development strategy.

Royal Government of Bhutan has also committed in maintaining more than 70 percent forest cover for all time to come. Currently the total land under forest cover is 72.5 percent and more than 26 percent of the land is under the protected areas, comprising of four national parks and about 9 percent of the land fall under biological corridors so that the wild life sanctuaries and nature reserves connect protected areas. For Bhutan, maintaining a balanced natural ecosystem remains the central theme of its development process

Page 76

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Pic Courtesy: Astha Shah

The role of environment in Bhutan can be understood through-“Every Bhutanese is a trustee of the Kingdom`s natural resources and environment for the benefit of the present and future generations and it is the fundamental duty of every citizen to contribute to the protection of the natural environment, conservation of the rich biodiversity of Bhutan and prevention of all forms of ecological degradation including noise, visual and physical pollution through the adoption and support of environment friendly practices and policies “- Article 5.1, Constitution of Bhutan.

ENVIRONMENT AND DEVELOPMENT

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

The country’s development policies disregard sacrificing its natural resource base for short term economic gains and are consistent with the central tenets of sustainable development, environmental conservation and cultural values. The Royal Government of Bhutan has also made a national commitment to uphold its obligation to future generations by charting a path of development called the “Middle Path” – this is the development which upholds both environmental and cultural preservation as an integral part of the development process.

Buddhism plays and important role in environment protection as the religion preaches to refrain from harm. According to Buddhism destructing nature is equal to destructing the human race as nature is home. According to the Vajrayana teachings ,the elements of nature are considered as real temples where Bhuddha abodes .Thus obstruction of nature is considered as sin .Since Bhutan’s base is Buddhism ultimately nature becomes the foundation for development.

Some of the issues faced by the nation includes: climate induced threat like melting of the glaciers, water pollution, waste management issues ,landslides , air pollution, forest fire, degradation of forest due to increase in population and urbanization.

Page 77

Pic Courtesy: Astha Shah

URBAN DEVELOPMENT AND ECOLOGY IN THIMPHU

Pic Courtesy: Astha Shah

Page 78

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Pic Courtesy: Astha Shah

Thimphu is a humble city nestled into the world’s most magnificent range of mountains. The Thimphu Valley has its own requirements. The valley needs the green cover on the hillsides that protects the Wang Chu from silting up and flooding. It needs space for the avifauna and fauna that maintain the fragile balance amongst a wide variety of flora and soils. The city cannot overload the fragile soils, which hold back the land from sliding down into the river basin. Such erosion will silt up the river, making it widen and flood over its banks! This will cause secondary erosion and further damage to the eco-systems. The downstream effects will be disastrous and the costs incalculable. Where others have failed to respect their fragile eco-systems, in a manner balancing man and nature, Bhutan is committed to follow a more dignified path. Bhutan is committed to create one of the first environment friendly habitats in the world, where humankind and nature find a modicum of eternal harmony.

The high peaks are untouched with native flora and fauna. As the slope gradient reduces urbanization begins. Further down agriculture is practiced. Since the land is sloping the farmlands are terraced to reduce erosion and to improve water percolation.

The flood plains are also remained untouched having its own ecosystem.

Since nature becomes the base for development it is one of the pillars of GNH .

STAKEHOLDER CONSULTATION: ECOLOGICAL, ENERGY AND WATER CONCERNS

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

The major stakeholders who were consulted were: National Environment Commissioner: The National Environment Commission is a high level multi-sectoral body. It is the highest decision making and coordinating body on all the matters relating to the protection, conservation and improvement of the natural environment.

The vision of the body is –“A healthy and sustainable environment for present and future generations in pursuit of Gross National Happiness.”The mission is-“To conserve and protect environment through the National Environment Commission as an independent apex body on all matters relating to environment to regulate environmental impacts and promote sustainable environment.”

Pic Courtesy: Astha Shah

Page 79

The mandate of the National Environment Commission includes: development, reviewing and revision of environmental policies, plans, programmes , Laws/Acts and monitor enforcement of the same; Mainstreaming environment into the country’s developmental policies, plans and programmes; Promotion of environmental awareness amongst all levels of Bhutanese society, including dissemination of environmental policies, strategies, acts, rules, regulations and standards through print, audio visual and other appropriate means; Institutionalizing the Environmental Assessment (EA) process as an integral part of the development planning process through enforcement of EA Act 2000; Adoption, reviewing and revision of environmental standards for the country; Monitoring ambient air and water quality and land-use changes and inform all

sections of the society through print, audio visual and other appropriate means; Promotion and ensuring of an efficient system of gathering and sharing environmental information; Publishing of State of Environment Reports and report/submit to the Lhengyal Zhungtshog/Parliament once every 5 years and dissemination of the findings to the general public; Promotion and conducting of environmental research; Development and facilitation of the implementation of the National Sustainable Development Strategy (NSDS); Coordination and monitoring of cross-sectoral issues related to water, forestry and mineral resources and waste management in the country; Participation in all environment related regional, sub-regional and international conferences and negotiations.

Sketch by: Avni

TOWN PLANNING Town planner: Implementation through structure plan The forests , marshlands and wetlands in flora and fauna and avifauna were identified and sustainable measures were taken

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan Page 80

TOWN PLANNING Environmental Enhancement Zones were allotted for eco-sensitive zones. The proposal for environmental enhancement of Thimphu valley aims at conserving, protecting and vitalizing the ecologically fragile areas and the environment of Thimphu Valley.

The proposed environmental enhancement zones are classified into:

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

EN1. RIPARIAN PROTECTION ZONE EN2. FLORA, FAUNA PROTECTION ZONE

and

AVIFAUNA

EN3. SLOPE AND SOIL STABILISATION ZONE EN4. WATERSHED MANAGEMENT ZONE

Page 81

Pic Courtesy: Astha Shah

TOWN PLANNING

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan Page 82

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

DEVELOPMENT OF NEIGHBOURHOOD Each neighborhood has been planned and designed according to unique landscape features of the city showing the importance of natural environment in the development of Thimphu.

Neighbourhoods with all basic facilities are developed such that all the facilities are available in close proximity so that there is less travelling required.Thus increasing pedestrianisation and less carbon emission.

Policies aiming at ecological sustainability Building regulations such as height of the building, set backs are made according to the slope of the land,considering natural daylighting and ventilation such that less active heating techniques need to be used. Thus reducing the use of electricity.

The impulses from industries are resisted.Polluting cities are not allowed in the city.

Pic Courtesy: Astha Shah

Public transport system is improved.City bus services are introduced.Electric cars were introduced in the year 2014, but was not very successful.

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Pic Courtesy: Astha Shah

ROYAL SOCIETY FOR PROTECTION OF NATURE NGO to: Provide leadership in conservation ,promote innovative technologies and methods , to be proactive towards environmental issues , to be accountable and transparent ,to be efficient and effective in delivering programmes .

The Goals of RSPN include: To contribute significantly to environmental conservation in Bhutan through natural resources management and development of sustainable livelihood approaches. To increase the level of environmental awareness through education, advocacy and public participation in conservation.

To enhance and increase the knowledge on the Bhutanese environment and sustainable livelihoods.

Enhance RSPN ’s institutional, organizational and human resource capacity to support conservation, sustainable development, research and education.

Five year Strategy Plan (2016-2020) includes conservation and sustainable livelihoods ,soil and land management, species and habitat conservation, water resource management, climate change, environment education and advocacy.

Some of RSPN’s projects include: In species conservation Black-necked crane conservation and White bellied heron conservation.

In environmental education and advocacycommunity based watershed management , environmental education in school curriculum and nature clubs. In sustainable livelihoodscommunity based sustainable tourism, Phobjikha conservation area and community based natural resource management. In research-Jigme Khesar Environmental Research Fund.

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RSPN has evolved as a complementary partner to the Royal Government of Bhutan in the preservation of Bhutan’s rich natural heritage. It is registered with the Civil Society Organization Vision of RSPN is: ”Future generations of Bhutan will live in an environmentally sustainable society ”. The mission is to inspire personal responsibility and active involvement of the people of Bhutan in the conservation of the Kingdom’s environment through education, research and sustainable livelihood opportunities.

The core values of RSPN are statements based on clear, concise, and shared beliefs of the organi­ zation that will contribute towards achieving its mission in the long run. Its core values are

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

COMMUNITY CONSULTATION 10 Citizens from Changzamtok LAP were consulted and their role in the protection and conservation of environment, energy use and sustainable practices were understood. Â Agriculture practices: Most of the people have come to live in the city for their tertiary occupation. They have land back in their villages(Dagana,Haa,Phunakha,Sham si etc) where they do farming of maize, orange, peach, rajma ,daal, onion, spinach, rice, etc.

Traditional farming practices which are organic and sustainable are used(some use traditional Japanese techniques of farming). Terrace farming is employed due to the sloping terrain. No modern techniques nor chemical fertilizers are employed by most of the framers. Organic manure like cow dung, plant waste etc are used.

Energy sources and usage: Electricity is the major source of energy consumed for lighting, heating and sometimes for cooking.

The electricity is provided by the municipality.

The usage becomes more in winter. Some passive heating techniques such as rammed earth wall, wooden flooring are employed in traditional homes in the outskirts. There are two types of water sources, the municipal water for the buildings in closer proximity to the river; natural spring water for the buildings on the upper altitudes. No rain water harvesting techniques are used in residences even if there is fluctuation in availability of water during the winter. Lpg is the source for cooking gas in all the residences and hotels. No other alternate sources are used.

Sustainable practices at micro level: Most of the residences have small kitchen gardens where they grow yam ,spinach, lettice, etc. The kitchen waste itself is used as manure for the same.

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Pic Courtesy: Astha Shah

Pic Courtesy: Jui

Pic Courtesy: Jui

CONCLUSION

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Bhutan is an abode of the pristine natural environment and picturesque milieus amidst less than a million hearts dominated by 53 percent male population (http:// countrymeters.info/en/Bhutan). On the other hand, Buddhism prevails in every work of life and brings required amount of containments amongst the people.

While we explored Bhutan, particularly Thimphu City with a participatory manner, we also relied on the existing literature and official communications on Gross National Happiness (GNH) and its ramification on urban planning and urban life. As you may find that the 4 Pillars of GNH i.e. Good Governance, Sustainable Socio-economic Development, Preservation and Promotion of Culture, and Environmental Conservation have been assessed with the help of simple questions to the key stakeholders and capturing people’s perception. We have also engaged with the key stakeholders in order to understand the translation of GNH indicators and their manifestation on the urban community in Thimphu.

The city administration of Thimphu called Thimphu Thromde has been governed by an elected Mayer and 7 of his councillors to support him in decision making.

The technical support comes from executive wings largely the officials and technical staffs looking after various departments. The entire city has been divided into 15 Urban Villages (UV) and each UV has one Local Area Planning (LAP) as planning unit equivalent to an urban neighbourhood. The urban planning approaches are based on form-based building bye-laws and relatively good standards of municipal services and infrastructure are provided to each LAP to ensure basic minimum requirement. Spatial planning at LAP level aims to achieve a self-sustained unit of the neighbourhood. Financial assistance is sought from the international bi-lateral agencies and or intergovernmental agencies such The World Banks and Asian Development Bank for the provisioning of infrastructure and services with few pieces of evidence of PPP models. A strong pre-requisites of financial assistance from these agencies is the report on the social impact assessment and public consultation. Therefore, it seems that planning process is people-centric, however, ultimately the urban policy of the Royal Government of Bhutan prevails.

Royal Government of Bhutan follows a Constitutional Monarchy and has adopted GNH as measures of well-being- both material and spiritual well-being of the society at large. Each and every policy is guided by the GNH indicators largely subjective in nature, however, what we found across the 4 pillars of GNH is that people are by an large happy with the Monarchy System as many basic requirements of primary health care and education are being taken care of free of cost.

Basic amenities are in place in Thimphu with relatively lower levels of satisfaction amongst the people. People are adapted to whatever comes in their ways as a matter of supply from the government. However, there is no housing supply for economically poor section of the society, Economic activities are dominated by the trade and commerce and tourism in the city. Job opportunities are there in both public and private sectors. Nonetheless, informal economic activities are taking place and the market economy taking its own share in this city based on the welfare of constitutional monarchy. Most of the jobs are created in the government sectors followed by the commercial and construction sectors. Tourism has emerged as a major employment multipliers in recent times. People are still spending more time in leisure activities than economic activities, however, those in private sectors and corporate jobs, they are working hard to meet both ends.

Social sustainability and cultural vitality are the keys to happiness in Bhutan so in Thimphu. However, with the globalization and digital integrations, there is a tremendous pressure amongst the youth to replicate the western and modern lifestyle and follow the Japanese way of fast and technological based modern livings and at the same time be super aspirational and indulges into consumerism and materialist way of life. This is a major confusion or the challenges of being happy for the long run with limited openness and available resources- human and natural. The rich social and cultural ethos and practices of the Buddhist way of life are some of the real virtues of the life of the people. Social capitals are building up and with the more technology penetrating into the day to day life, people may become individualists in long run.

Both the government agencies and people at large are conscious about the preservation and conservation of nature and their livings still depend on the available natural resources. The pattern of energy use is highly dependent on the electricity largely coming from hydro-power which is sustainable in its own ways. However, mobility using fossils fuel is a threat. The local environmental conditions particularly the ambient air quality has already been giving warning signals. The pristine natural environment may get distorted in the long run with this pace of economic and social development. People are spiritual in nature as Buddhism dominates in every work of life, but the ill effect of modern and western thinking has started showing signs of discontentment especially amongst the youth. Roads, water and employment are now a priority sector for the Royal Government of Bhutan. Sporadic cases of drug abuses, alcoholism crime against women are being reported.

The spiritual and royal legacy keeps the people and public by and large happy in the landlocked country of Bhutan and Thimphu city becomes the true

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

representatives of the country to assess the GNH in an urban context. The perpetual Royal Legacy which is no doubt very accessible, approachable and more humanistic, does not guarantee a long-term happiness for the generations to come. The religious belief and sentiments may lead to less advancement of rational thinking, hence giving lower importance to the development of innovations in the field of science and technology leading to stagnated and closed cultural advancement. The danger is being contained and live in a state of hypnotized happiness for generations to come.

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SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY

1. MoWHS, Department of Urban development and Engineering Studies, Structure Plan 2002- 2027 2. Sott Cloutier, Jenna Jambeck, Norman Scott, 2014, The Sustainable neighborhoods for happiness index: A metric for assessing a community’s sustainability and potential influence on happiness, Journal Elsevier, accessed from: www.elsevier.com/locate/ecolind 3. Sinisa Trkujla,Faculty of Geography, University of Belgrade, Happiness an indicator and planning objective for the spatial development policy 4. Stefan Priesner, Programme Officer, UNDP, Thimphu, Bhutan, Gross National Happiness – Bhutan’s Vision of Development and its challenge, Ura Karma and Galay Karma, 2004, Gross National Happiness and Development, Proceedings of the first international Seminar on operationalization of gross national happiness, The Centre for Bhutan Studies, Thimphu accessed on 7th Dec. 2017, from http:// www.bhutan studies.org.bt 5. Social Indicators Research, 2014 Can Well – Being be measured using Facebook status update? Validation of Facebook’s gross National Happiness index.

7. Nicole I.J. Hoellerer, The Use of Qualitative and Ethnographic research to enhance the measurement and operationalization of gross national Happiness, Journal of Bhutan Studies.

8. John Jigme Rohdes, Choki Lhamu, B.D. Rai, Ministry of Agriculture, The royal Government of Bhutan, Integrating Economy and Environment: The development Experience of Bhutan.

9. Thimphu Thromde, 2016, Thimphu Thromde Development Control Regulation 2016.

10. Thinley Penjore, Urban Development and Housing Division, MoC, Thimphu, Strengthening Urban housing and urban development division.

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6. Alejandro Adler Braun, 2009, Gross National Happiness in Bhutan: A living example of an Alternative Approach to Progress, Wharton International Research Experience

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First Row - Left to Right : Tashi Yetso, Shreyash Nandanwar, Showmik Desai, Gary Naveen, Smit Patel, Subhashita, Trisika, Savita Jaswani, Dr. Anil Kumar Roy, Mr. Khempu Lama, Gurpreetsingh Sandhu, Prasenjit Shukla, Avni, Jui Dodhiya, Ekta Verma, Shrujal Patel, Srinidhi Santosh Second Row - Left to Right : Yash Barve, Manush Shah, Swaliha, Ayushi, Gaurashi Sawant, Tanya Gunjan, Gargi Mishra, Prajakta Joshi

Exploring Happiness in Wildernerss in Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan