Signe - Edition 8 by Signé

S I G N É

CREATING AN ICON

A CLOSER LOOK AT ONE OF THE MOST ICONIC TIMEPIECES IN HISTORY, THE JAEGER-LECOULTRE REVERSO

TRUNK SHOW

THE STORY OF LOUIS VUITTON FROM HUMBLE TRUNK-MAKER TO GLOBAL CONGLOMERATE

WHEN IN ROME Bulgari CEO Jean-Christophe Babin narrates the brand’s story of style, innovation and success

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CONTENTS

SCHOLARS

24 SCENE STEALER A closer look at the life and wardrobe of one of history’s most stylish actors, Gene Kelly

26 VISION OF SUCCESS In an exclusive interview, Mohammed Abdul Rahim Al Fahim, CEO of Paris Gallery Group opens up about his life and the company

28 DRESSING A NATION A profile of one of Saudi Arabia’s most influential businessmen, Sheikh Abdullah Binzagr, Founder of Rubaiyat Group

30 THE SIGNÉ MAN Inside the sophisticated international wardobe of stylish Signé reader Nigel Siwani

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

Tim Jefferies by Bryan Adams – île Saint-Louis, Paris

IN HIS FATHER'S FOOTSTEPS... CORTHAY, THE FINEST SHOES

M A I S O N S C O R T H AY : PA R I S

LONDON

TOKYO

HONG KONG

DUBAI

W W W. C O R T H AY. C O M

CONTENTS

S AV O I R FA I R E

34 CREATING AN ICON

38 ALL IN THE DETAIL

Signé takes a behind-the-scenes look at one of watchmaking’s most famous icons, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Berluti presents an illustrated glossary of the essential steps involved in creating the French brand’s bespoke Grande Mesure suits

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

CONTENTS

S IGN É S E L EC TION

42 PEARL OF ARABIA Emirates Palace sets the stage for a striking photo shoot in which BMW’s new 6 Series Gran Coupé Pearl Edition plays a leading role

52 SPREZZATURA Stay in style during business or travel with our selection of carefully curated looks for gentlemen

60 FOR HER A monthly section dedicated to the better half, featuring a closer look at Marco Bicego jewellery

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

CONTENTS

PHIL ANTHROPY

66 FROM THE ASHES

68 LEADERS OF TOMORROW

Inside luxury watch brand Chopard’s mission to give back to the film industry by restoring famous Italian film studio Cinecittà

A closer look at the work of Emirates Foundation, an organisation set up to improve the lives of young people across the UAE

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

CONTENTS

OBSESSION

72 WHEN IN ROME Signé takes an indepth look at Italian brand Bulgari and speaks to CEO Jean-Christophe Babin about the company’s history, innovative craftsmanship and most successful launches

80 THE KING OF COOL Steve McQueen is one of history’s most stylish actors. Signé takes a look at his most memorable style moments

84 SWING IN TIME Signé explores the relationship between timekeeping and the gentleman’s sport of golf, through luxury watch brand Audemars Piguet

Carillon Tourbillon

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

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CONTENTS

H E R I TA G E

88 WORK IN PROGRESS Signé explores the impact that the notorious Victoria era had on the worlds of architecture, art and fashion

90 BARBERSHOP HARMONY

92 TRUNK SHOW

In the modern world, it’s important to keep traditions alive. Signé visits Antica Barbieria Colla, a Milanese barbershop that’s doing just that

The fascinating history of Louis Vuitton, detailing the brand’s key launches and accomplishments through the years

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

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CONTENTS

L A D O L C E V I TA

108

100 CRUISE CONTROL Famous for its distinctive wooden boats, Riva unveils a revolutionary new line in steel

102 EDGE OF THE OCEAN Signé heads to the French Riviera to explore one of the Mediterranean’s most luxurious coastal resorts, Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc

104 DESERT ESCAPE For all those searching for a mini-break location, Bab al Shams Desert Resort & Spa, set in the Arabian Desert, is an oasis worth exploring

108 FUTURE OF ELEGANCE Everything a motoring enthusiast needs to know about the new Rolls-Royce Ghost Series II

110 HAUTE SOCIÉTÉ The latest and most exciting openings from across the UAE

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

SINCE 1922

"Since 1922 we have been proud to be t he guardians of timeless values: handmade in Italy x e cellence, unmistakable style and understated luxury, in a winning balance of tradition and innovation".

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Scholars Behind all of the best brands and companies across the globe stand men and women with pioneering personalities and unique success stories. In this section, we take an indepth look into the lives of the bold few who have shaped the world of luxury as we know it.

SCHOLARS

SCENE STEALER

SCENE STEALER A true stalwart of glamourous 1950s’ Hollywood, Gene Kelly’s unique dance style propelled him into the history books as a timeless movie icon B Y C H A R L O T T E VA N D E N B R O U C Q U E

Lockwood

helped transform the public’s perception of

tennis vest or colourful checked suits. Kelly’s

danced his way through a veritable torrent of water, singing his heart out as he went, no one could have predicted that this was movie magic in the making and one of the most iconic scenes ever filmed. From the lamppost leap to the disapproving policeman, it has stuck in the public’s psyche ever since. The man behind the character was the legendary Gene Kelly – a man with an enormous talent

male dancers as stereotypically effeminate. Yet it was his starring role in and co-direction of Singin’ in the Rain – a film that has been heralded by some as the best movie of all time – that made him an icon. Not only was it his talent for performance and his all-American good looks that caught the public’s imagination, but also his easy personal style. Fred Astaire wore top hats

unforgettable scene in a downpour with his slightly skew-whiff fedora and woollen tweed suit has been celebrated ever since, perfectly capturing the look of the 1920s’ working man. Bought for US$10 (AED37) at a MGM costume sale in 1970 by a collector, the suit has since been sold at auction for just over US$100,000 (AED370,000). Uniting forces with another Hollywood heavyweight, Frank

and seemingly boundless energy, which led to his electric performances. Born in 1912 in Pittsburgh, US, Kelly’s path to stardom was far from instantaneous, requiring years of blood, sweat and tears before his hard work finally paid off. His experience had made him a great all-rounder – an accomplished singer, choreographer and actor with good looks to boot but it was his passion for the art of dance that became the catalyst for success. His first career breakthrough came when he danced his own choreography in the Broadway show Time of Your Life in 1939. His athletic style and bold movements bought a renewed vigour to classical ballet techniques that filled the stage and made him a memorable solo dancer. The films that followed – For Me and My Gal starring Judy Garland, Cover Girl alongside Rita Hayworth and Anchors Aweigh where Kelly famously danced with cartoon mouse Jerry – cemented his career as a Hollywood star. The showman’s pioneering style and dedicated attitude to dance began to change

and tails whereas Kelly’s look was more casual and more relatable to the average man on the street. In one striking image, he casually reclines, looking away from the camera wearing grey slacks, a collared white shirt and a sweater vest. In warmer weather he was pictured sporting a cooler polo shirt or perfectly fitting round-neck T-shirt instead. Even in more formal situations his approach to fashion was unfussy. When pictured beside Grace Kelly at the 1955 Cannes Film Festival he wore a classic single-breasted grey suit, white shirt and a dark tie. Simple, timeless and chic. This was the essence of Kelly’s style; he made a dance out of everyday life and his wardrobe surely matched. Other memorable style moments came courtesy of the characters he portrayed in his best-loved films, including Don Lockwood in Singin’ in the Rain. Never has a yellow ‘slicker’ coat looked more dapper before or since. Set in the 1920s, only Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby has captured the look of the decade with such effect. A time of true opulence, no on-set wardrobe repertoire would be

Sinatra, in Anchors Aweigh in 1945, the duo made another lasting style impression with their infamous portrayal of two sailors on shore leave in Los Angeles. Few could forget them setting about their adventure in the big city with a flourish of nautical stripes, bellbottomed trousers and white sailor’s caps. As the popularity of the movie musical genre began to fade, Kelly focused more on stage, television and film production and direction, quite often to critical acclaim. In 1969 his direction of Barbra Streisand and Walter Matthau in Hello Dolly! was nominated for seven Academy Awards, winning three. Kelly certainly excelled at many things during his lengthy career. In 1953, he received an Honorary Oscar in appreciation of his versatility as an actor, dancer and director and his contribution to the art of choreography. A huge talent both in front of and behind the camera, Kelly took the golden age of Hollywood by storm. However, if there’s one image of him that persists more than any other, then it’s him swinging from a lamp post in Singin’ in the Rain; never has anyone enjoyed a downpour

the whole genre of movie musicals and

complete without a chunky knit, white V-neck

as much, before or since.

Don

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

SCHOLARS

VISION OF SUCCESS

Vision of Success Mohammed Abdul Rahim Al Fahim, CEO of Paris Gallery Group, talks to Signé about the company’s plans for international expansion, maintaining a successful retail business and the meaning of luxury BY REBECCA ANNE PRO CTOR

Mohammed Abdul Rahim Al Fahim is a member of the Al Fahim family, the founders and owners of the Paris Gallery Group; a company specialising in luxury retail that was instrumental in bringing a vast range of products from around the world to the Middle East. Al Fahim began his

the family business and played a key role in establishing Paris Gallery in Saudi Arabia. In 2006, the visionary was appointed CEO of the group and, under his leadership, the company has evolved into a dynamic and diverse enterprise with a growing portfolio of over 500 iconic luxury brands catering to

From humble beginnings with a single store to 80 outlets in key cities across the region, Paris Gallery is a fine example of business and retailing in the Middle East. Luxury products, innovative vision, quality relationships and customer service remain at the heart of the company. Signé talks to Al Fahim about the

career by obtaining a bachelor’s degree in Business Administration. He went on to join

customers across the Gulf through its various retail, franchising and distribution channels.

inner workings of the group and the factors that put Paris Gallery in a league of its own.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

Paris Gallery is a family business. Tell us about how the company started and of your passion for the business industry.

structure and systems or resistance to change. Traditional family business models are flawed as sometimes they have no proper plans in

is very extensive and considers several criteria for acceptance. We look for brands that are highly innovative and flexible enough

Paris Gallery is a corporately governed family business. Corporate governance was instituted in the year 2006 at a time when I was asked to head the family businesses. For me, the love of business started at a very young age when I had the opportunity to assist my father in his shop. I felt part of it. I had my own ambitions and plans but the

place to involve the younger generations past the third generation. Most family businesses succeed up to the third generation, after which they break up. So one of the biggest challenges of a family business is to keep it together while also making room for future generations to be a part of it.

to understand and cater to the needs of our customers. We take on board brands that are popular, have a good history and heritage, a reliable management and that produce quality products that appeal to our culturally diverse customer base. The commitment of the brand to distribution, marketing and overall support also plays a big role.

desire to work together as a family and build the family business was ingrained.

What distinguishes Paris Gallery from other multi-brand retailers? Paris Gallery is a name synonymous with luxury; a name built over two decades serving an amazing mix of people. The company’s strategy combines high levels of sales assistance by dedicated and trained staff, specialised merchandise and a shopping

How did you initially get involved with the family business and what inspired you to make this decision? It was the feeling of being responsible for the family and the family business that got me into it. I had the desire to be a doctor but my parents insisted that I obtain a graduate degree in business. After graduation, I pursued a few of my own corporate interests before finally agreeing to join the family business and devote myself to it. My father had a dream to establish a retail chain in the luxury sector, so in 1994, I managed to issue the first Paris Gallery trade licence and thereafter the first Paris Gallery store opened in BurJuman Centre in early 1996. Initially, I was in charge of our businesses in KSA (Kingdom of Saudi Arabia) and, after a 10-year stint successfully putting the company on a trajectory of profitable growth and widening its market reach, I took on the mantle of CEO for the group in 2006. What have you found to be the greatest strengths and challenges of running the business so far? The strengths of a family business can be seen in areas such as culture, governance, involvement and leadership. Flexibility, innovation, ambition, an entrepreneurial spirit, quick decision making, loyalty, a high degree of control and shared values and belief systems are all the strengths associated with running a business such as this. However, there are can be downsides, too. The challenges are many, such as preventing family issues from impacting the business. If such matters were to occur, there could be a lack of objectivity and, with emotions at play, quality decisionmaking could suffer. If not handled well, this could lead to instability, opposition to

environment that is luxuriously special. Our hospitality services are the best in the retail industry. By being present at most prime retail spaces in the country, we are where our customers want us. What stands out about the design of Paris Gallery stores around the world? Our customers have the luxury of shopping in opulent spaces that are not cluttered with products and fixtures. Our ‘preferred luxury retailer’ status, business model, market reach and large customer base are some of the reasons why luxury brands from around the world associate with the Paris Gallery brand and often do so exclusively. Luxury brands require luxurious spaces and that is exactly what we provide. What is your definition of luxury? Luxury is often associated with great comfort, especially involving great expense. For me, luxury has to do with the quality of the life I live. Everyone can experience luxury. A product could be luxury to you if you experience some form of comfort from it and if it adds value to your life. If something brings you joy or satisfaction through the experience of it, then that is luxury.

Which brands are you planning to acquire and work with in the coming year? We are targeting a few high-profile brands across all categories such as fashion, skincare, perfumes, cosmetics, watches, sunglasses and accessories. The Paris Gallery portfolio encompasses over 500 brands and this figure is consistently growing. How do you maintain quality for each brand and how do you position them in the market accordingly? As a retail company, we develop solutions for our customers based on market research, segmentation and the data that we have from our many years of retailing. For our clients, Paris Gallery is many things: integrity, success, reputation, customer satisfaction and delight, quality products and services, among others. We collaborate with the best brands to retain the trust and the loyalty of our customers. We serve many customer segments and we have products to cater to the needs of each segment. A good understanding of the market helps us to build creative marketing and selling strategies that, in turn, help brands to occupy a pole position in the market. No brand can afford to lower its standards and destroy its credibility so the expectations are high from each one of them. As a retailer, we are strategically located across the country to cater to a wide range of customers.

How do you select which brands you would like to bring on board? There are a number of brands eager to cash in on the lucrative UAE market, seeking to

There are currently around 52 Paris Gallery stores in the MENA region. What are your expansion plans for 2015? We are very optimistic about 2015 and we have plans to open a few stores in upcoming prime retail spaces in the UAE, KSA and Qatar. We are also looking forward to having

associate with established brands such as Paris Gallery. However, our selection process

all of our franchise stores up and running in Muscat, Baghdad and Baku.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

SCHOLARS

D R E S S I N G A N AT I O N

Dressing a nation As founder of Rubaiyat Group, Sheikh Abdullah Binzagr has revolutionised Saudi Arabia’s luxury fashion industry and granted international brands access to the opulent kingdom and its sophisticated shoppers

Thirty years ago, the fashion industry in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia was very different to what it is today. Since the popular national dress in the region is the thawb, many international brands previously avoided setting up shop in the

across the kingdom, opening boutiques in malls in the capital and most major cities. A key achievement in the early 2000s was the acquisition of Gucci, for which Rubaiyat Group opened two outlets within two years. Today, the company holds exclusive

Gucci and Prada. Armani is a company that Binzagr has worked exceptionally closely with from day one. From being one of the first brand’s on shelf to having points of sale for most of its labels − including Emporio Armani, Giorgio Armani, Armani Collezioni, Armani Jr,

kingdom, citing lack of demand for readyto-wear products. As such, residents would travel abroad to shop for non-national dress and accessories. One member of the royal family, Sheikh Abdullah Binzagr, grew tired of this outlook and set a plan in motion to revolutionise Saudi Arabia’s fashion industry. In 1980, he established the Rubaiyat Group, a fashion retailer that aimed to provide his countrymen with immediate access to global brands and, in turn, encourage more brands to the oil-rich country. Rubaiyat Group started out by stocking a number of lines through an innovative multibrand retail concept. Giorgio Armani, Lanvin and Gianfranco Ferré were among the first brands on display. French fashion house Lanvin received particular success and, in time, Rubaiyat Group opened Lanvin’s first standalone boutique in KSA at Jamjoom Center in Jeddah. This accomplishment was the first of its kind for a European brand in Saudi Arabia and paved the way for the introduction of additional international brands such as Emporio Armani, Ralph Lauren,

distribution rights for over 60 brands under the umbrella of its business empire, which has expanded beyond the borders of Saudi Arabia and into Gulf markets including the UAE, Bahrain and, temporarily, Lebanon. The influential retailer has opened several of its own multi-brand boutiques: Rubaiyat Men, Rubaiyat Ladies, Rubaiyat Kids and Rubaiyat Home. In 2014, the group went one step further and launched a 44,000-squarefoot luxury fashion department store at Stars Avenue Mall in Jeddah. This unique venue brings together all of the company’s leading brands under one roof, including newly launched lines such as Hackett London, Sergio Rossi and Santoni. As well as evidence of the kingdom’s increased passion for high-end fashion, the development is a fine example of the continued commitment to modernism and innovation of Founder and Chairman Binzagr. Binzagr is dedicated to bridging the gap between Europe and the Middle East. The visionary maintains strong relationships with the European fashion industry and, in

Armani Exchange and Armani Jeans − across Saudi Arabia, Armani has flourished in the kingdom thanks to the retailer’s support. In October 2014, in recognition of Binzagr’s contribution to cultural and commercial relations with Italy, he was awarded the highly prestigious Cavaliere dell’Ordine della Stella d’Italia (Knight of the Order of the Star of Italy). Consul General of Italy for KSA, Simone Petroni, presented the medal at the Italian consulate in Saudi Arabia. Binzagr was also nominated by luxury Italian fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna to receive a honourable award from the Altagamma Foundation as a key player in the high-end fashion industry. In the early 1800s, shoppers in Saudi Arabia would not have dreamt of the retail options they have today. While national dress remains the thawb, those seeking luxury items are inundated with options, be it shoes, watches, bags, jewellery, accessories and clothing. There is still a long way to go until the country reaches heights similar to the shopping capital of the world, Dubai, but international brands continue to flock to the

Versace, Celine, Kenzo and Sonia Rykiel. Over ensuing years, the group expanded

particular, with leading Italian fashion houses such as Armani, Brioni, Dolce and Gabbana,

kingdom through retailers such as Rubaiyat Group for their season in the sun.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

SIGNÉ

MAN

A Cut Above Amid the city’s cloud-grazing skyscrapers and rampant consumer culture, a real estate broker by the name of Nigel Mahmud Siwani is enjoying the finer things in life with an understated elegance. Here, he gives Signé an insight into his taste in apparel and accessories BY SAMIA QAIYUM

“People respond to how we’re

Today, Siwani is a professional estate agent

value my Montblanc pens. I have half a dozen

dressed, so like it or not, this is what you have to do,” is one of the most memorable quotes by the charming yet downright cut-throat Harvey Specter from television show Suits. A skilled lawyer and name partner at New York law firm Pearson Specter, he negotiates the complicated world of law in the sharpest of tailored suits, always rounding off an ensemble with his trademark Windsor knot.

working in the UAE for The Property Store and paying it forward by serving as a mentor for The London Season Academy in Dubai where he speaks on matters of modern business etiquette to young people entering the world of business. The agent made the move to Dubai in 2007 after realising his attraction to Arabic heritage and the sheer pace of modern Dubai. In conversation with Signé, Siwani takes us

that I bought a long time ago on my travels around the world. My father always told me to buy something that will stand the test of time, so over the years I maintain and service them. Each one tells its own story – deals I’ve signed, love letters I’ve written and so on.

Channelling a bit of the Specter swagger closer to home is Nigel Mahmud Siwani, a Dubai-based real estate broker and the definitive Signé man. “From an early age, I knew I was not going to take the traditional path by becoming a doctor or the like – although I would have made a great lawyer,” he says. “That’s why I feel a close affinity with Harvey Specter’s character.” Yet besides a penchant for all things legal, Siwani’s dressfor-success mantra is another commonality between him and the fictitious super-attorney, but more on that later. You could say real estate is in Siwani’s blood. “I completed my first viewing at the age of eight and charmed the couple into buying my parents’ house that was for sale at the time,” he recalls fondly. The 44-year-old was born and raised in London. He was guided by mentors who he describes as “exceptional gentleman estate agents” who showed him that, with integrity and absolute diplomacy, anything could be accomplished. He went on to achieve great success in both England’s Home Counties selling country houses

through his wardrobe and walks us through his personal sense of style.

PRIZED POSSESSIONS One of my most treasured items is my grandfather’s now vintage Omega Seamaster watch. As a small boy, I would admire his style and was fascinated by his watch. This started my passion for timepieces and over the years I have been fortunate to be able to amass a significant collection of Rolex stainless steel sport watches. My first was a Rolex Submariner that my mother gifted to

most dynamic and exciting markets is a bit like working in show business. Being presentable and well-spoken are the most basic of requirements. When a customer comes into my office, I always wear a jacket to greet them. After all, dressing well is a form of courtesy and professionalism that I take pride in. My office is located by the beach at JBR and I always look smart even when I’m casual. I often find myself travelling between JBR, Palm Jumeirah, Downtown Dubai and DIFC, which means I have to change accordingly throughout the day. Choosing a suit or a particular ensemble is like choosing a uniform – it has become second nature for me. I consider every last detail and leave nothing to chance, from the colour of my shirt and its co-ordinating thread to the tie or lapel flower. My personality is also reflected in my style. I like to combine styles – I may wear a Savile Row suit with a touch of Italian flair or French sophistication or I may dress up some casual chinos with a pair of bespoke Del Toro slippers; it all depends on my mood. I like to be bold but not too flashy. I have found that there

and estates and later high-end residential properties in central London.

me nearly 20 years ago. I love them because of their original purpose and durability. I also

is a definite art to being understated while remaining distinctive.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

DAY-TO-DAY STYLE Working in real estate in one of the world’s

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

SIGNÉ

MAN

Siwani owns a vast collection of slippers, most of which he has puchased from shoe brand Del Toro

STYLE EVOLUTION Dubai is unique and the city breeds a certain character that comes out in fashion. For some, it is all about sporting and showing off labels.

FAVOURITE PLACES TO SHOP The Dubai Mall is an incredible place. Fashion Avenue is such a rich spectacle, abundant with almost every luxury designer. Emaar has

THE ULTIMATE LOCAL TAILOR When I first arrived, I made a point of seeking out several tailors in Dubai. To me, the relationship I have with someone who makes clothes for me

For others, like myself, it is about being able to wear bespoke clothes and accessories that exude quality and craftsmanship. My own style has changed and evolved accordingly. Most of what I wear has been made specifically for me and so I am now able to truly reflect my individual character.

truly created the perfect environment to shop and walk around, allowing one to absorb the brands and feel inspired. Level Shoe District is my Achilles’ heel — I can’t recall not buying a pair of shoes when passing by. There is always something new and they keep the stock alive by introducing new brands all the time.

ADAPTING FROM SEASON TO SEASON Dubai presents certain challenges – namely the heat – and this affects how I dress. I enjoy the cooler winter months as I am able to wear traditional, darker woollen suits, purchased during my time spent in London, throughout the whole day without overheating. Going out in the warmer months of summer requires some planning in order to remain cool. There’s nothing worse than turning up to an event all dishevelled, so I wear my jacket right before leaving my apartment. The summer months are also perfect for wearing thin materials like linen and seersucker. Hanging out on the terrace at Koubba Bar in Al Qasr while smoking a fine cigar and feeling the warm breeze through my clothes is a refreshing

SHOPPING ABROAD Whenever I return home, I love being able to walk around Mayfair, between Mount Street, Davies Street through Berkeley Square to Bond Street, Conduit Street and Savile Row and then down to St. James’. The modern gentleman can find everything he needs within this area. I am very much a creature of habit which makes me a loyal customer. I love spending time at Bourdon House, the London home of Alfred Dunhill. The master barber, Jay Anya, is a good friend of mine and after having the best haircut and wet shave in London, I can buy my favourite cigar there and enjoy lunch either outside in the garden or walk across to nearby Scott’s on Mount Street. I like to seek out smaller, very specialised tailors who have a

is a very personal thing, so I was disappointed with a couple of well-known places as they didn’t understand what I wanted to achieve. It was only when I visited Bespoke in DIFC and met Prakash Parmar that my opinion changed. The staff are exceptional; they deal with me with great patience and know my style to a tee. I hugely respect the efforts and attention to detail that Prakash and his family puts into delivering the best experience and clothing. You can tell the difference between a cheap suit and a Bespoke creation from a mile away.

change from the air-conditioned environment I spend so much time in.

genuine passion for what they do. Udeshi on Davies Street is a great example.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

ON DUBAI AS AN EMERGING FASHION CAPITAL I have seen the number of specialist services provided by leading designer brands and bespoke artisan tailors increase over the years. Yes, you can buy a very expensive suit off the rail and have it altered around you, but that means there is hardly any room to be an individual to own something that no one else has. Exclusivity and personalisation is certainly a growing trend. I have witnessed increasing numbers of people educating themselves on matters of tailoring and seeking out good tailors to commission individual pieces.

Savoir Faire A fine piece of artistry is made to be admired and cherished but the hours of craftsmanship that goes into making it is what makes it truly special. Here, some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest artisans share their secrets behind the creation of one-of-a-kind masterpieces.

S AV O I R FA I R E

C R E AT I N G A N I C O N

CREATING AN ICON THE JAEGER-LECOULTRE REVERSO IS ONE OF THE SWISS WATCH BRAND’S MOST ICONIC WATCHES. SIGNÉ INVESTIGATES ITS HISTORY, MODERN CRAFTSMANSHIP AND THE SYMBOLISM OF TODAY BY REBECCA ANNE PRO CTOR

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is one of watchmaking’s greatest icons. In January 2014 at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched a new

brand with one word I’d say it is ‘inventive’. The Reverso was invented for polo players because they were often breaking the glass of their watches and they asked us to launch a watch that would survive a polo game. We

version paying homage to this legend, the Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931. Referred to as the ‘Tribute to 1931’ or simply the ‘1931’ model, this new timepiece retains all the mechanical and design attributes that made the Reverso a star, except for its aesthetic appearance. An elegant pink gold case forms the structure while a simple yet classic white dial with beautiful hour markers endows the watch with an attractive vintage appearance. The technology and general look of the timepiece may have changed little from previous models but this simply refers to its powerful origins. The story of the Reverso timepiece began in 1931 in India. The watch was created in response to a challenge set by British colonial army officers stationed in the Southern Asian country who desired an elegant watch capable of surviving a polo match. Albeit providing something more sturdy, the Reverso was much more than a sports model right from its inception. The watch’s elegant steel or gold back, evident by simply turning the face over, would soon make a mark in the

a watch: it became a cult object that could easily be personalised by the wearer. The essence of a luxury object is as much about referencing tradition as it is about creating something meaningful. “Customers of Jaeger-LeCoultre appreciate craftsmanship, legitimacy and history,” says Jaeger-LeCoultre Middle East Brand Director Marc de Panafieu. “It is difficult to define the

created a swivelling case so that the metal part of it is face up when you play polo. You can hit it without damaging the timepiece and that was the invention, per se.” Jaeger-LeCoultre’s archives are filled with the remains of hundreds of Reversos that have been engraved according to the desires of their owners. These are typically in the form of initials or crests, usually with a number, a picture or portrait. In addition, the metal back of the Reverso’s rotating case has also been a privileged space for engraving since its beginnings. The Reverso has thus been an object used to transfer a memory across generations. “I need to have a watch that is both iconic and also has a specific history,” says de Panafieu. “When I was younger I was more in tune with sporty looks because I was a sporty guy. As I have become older I’ve become attracted to more classical pieces, but I must say that the timepiece that is closest to my heart is the Reverso. Being French, the Reverso is a strong symbol of where I come from.

history of watchmaking. Such an aesthetic invention made the Reverso much more than

Jaeger-LeCoultre watch. They are sporty, classy and elegant. If I need to define the

“When you get married very often you offer your future wife an engagement ring

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

ENAMELLING

ENGRAVING

Jaeger-LeCoultre has re-discovered the age-old technique of producing

Engravers use a combination of burins, chisels, files and hammers to carve

miniature paintings on enamel. Enamel miniaturists, as the artisans are called,

beautiful motifs in the watch back. First, the sketch is traced lightly on the

have mastered all the traditional techniques including grand feu, champlevé,

surface. The drawing is then honed with the right burin for the engraving style.

translucent and cloisonné. They have also recently developed a new process

For chiselling tiny details the engraver has some 12 burins in all sizes which he

that uses a light source to reveal colour variations and unsuspected nuances.

sharpens himself using sandstone, emery grinders and oil stone.

GEMSETTING

ASSEMBLY

After deciding on the placement of the stones to suit the design of the motif,

The movement is the organ which brings the watch to life and how it’s put

the artisan begins by drilling small holes. He makes progressive cuts, drawing

together is integral to its success. Assembly is, as such, one of the most

out the grain which will grip the stones. Each stone is then set in place so it

important steps of the watchmaking process. Artisans tasked with this

fits perfectly and the hole is circular-grained so that the stone cannot move.

intricate job are some of the most skilled in the industry.

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S AV O I R FA I R E

C R E AT I N G A N I C O N

A Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso displaying a miniature painting

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and she often offers you something in return. In some cases it is a watch and in my case it was a

wearer wishes to imbue on their Reverso can be done and through this particular art, the quality

Reverso, so the watch I own has great meaning for me. I will never sell it.” In 2011, for the 80th anniversary of this legendary swivel watch, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to increase Reverso’s

of the Jaeger-LeCoultre craftsmanship will stand the test of time. “Enamelling is also a very technical process – we have people who are creating the watches, layer after layer and detail after

personalisation options. From the simplest to the most sophisticated, the Manufacture offers numerous possibilities for engraving, gem-setting and enamelling to make each Reverso as unique as he or she who wears

detail,” says de Panafieu. Without a tradition of quality there would be no iconic Reverso watch. “I think for luxury in general, craftsmanship is essential,” adds de Panafieu. “Due to the current state of our increasingly globalised

it. Due to the unique surface area of the watch, which measures just a few square centimetres, the Reverso offers the wearer yet another place in which to forever immortalise one’s memories. It is up to the wearer what they wish to engrave; anything is possible thanks to the know-how of the Manufacture’s artistsans. The wearer can also personalise his or her timepiece using the brand’s famous English lettering or even an Art Deco style. These can be complemented by new typefaces providing initials in a modern or a classic look with the option of adding colour. Another addition to the personalisation service is the ability to access such facilities online. One can choose a particular design, badge or personal motif, or design a map of a region or even a country. The wearer

and, for those who like glamour and sparkle, there is the option to embed gemstones in the back of the watch. Such possibilities make the Reverso a defined and unique piece for the discerning wrist. The art of enamelling is perhaps the pinnacle of personalisation. Whether it is the realisation of an enamelled portrait, the reproduction of a famous painting or a simple but elegant inscription of a person’s

world, craftsmanship is greatly needed. Things travel fast and people travel fast. Now people want to know when they acquire an object where it was made and how. And the fact that every Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece is created within one Manufacture in Switzerland is an added plus. We do it all by hand.” To own such an exquisite watch is a mark of refinement. It reflects on a gentleman or woman with a refined taste and who respects tradition, style and beauty. For the collector of timepieces eager to retain one of these emblematic watches in his or her collection, the Reverso carries with it an eminent mark of history. From the polo players who first wore it on the field to the refined men and women of today who choose this iconic piece, the story of the Reverso is about

can even personalise his or her watch by reproducing a digital imprint in the metal

initials, the back of the reversible case can be adorned thus too. Whichever story the

heritage, tradition, beauty and the desire to move with the times.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Polo

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

S AV O I R FA I R E

A L L I N T H E D E TA I L

ALL IN THE DETAIL Berluti offers Grande Mesure suits that are made to fit you and only you. As opposed to a ready-to-wear suit or a ‘semi-mesure’ suit which has been adapted from existing models, a Grande Mesure suit is entirely conceived by, and for, the client. It is cut to his measurements so that it will perfectly mould to his body. He can choose every last detail, from the width of the lapels to the style of the buttons and the colour of the lining, while taking full advantage of the seasoned experience and advice of the master tailor. Signé unveils the details that go into creating such a suit and the terms that define each step.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

PATTERN A model in different shapes that’s selected to order to give a desired line

BESPOKE

CUTTER

Derived from the term to ‘be spoken for’, bespoke refers to a cut of cloth reserved by the client for his planned suit

The artisan who creates a pattern, cuts the cloth and constructs the suit

BUNDLE The term referring to all the components of a jacket or trousers bundled together for making up

BASTING

STITCHING

CANVASSING

The term for tacking long stitches to hold the garment pieces together before final sewing

The operation of hand- or machinestitching the parts of a jacket

Hand-stitching of canvas to the forepart of the jacket to give shape and body to the front of the garment

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

S AV O I R FA I R E

A L L I N T H E D E TA I L

FRENCH SEAM

FACING

A special type of seam attaching the collar to the lapel

The piece of fabric used to form the back of the neck and the lining of the front edges, giving definition

NOTCH

BUTTONHOLE FINISHER

MILANESE BUTTONHOLE

The opening between the lapel and the collar, which is the signature feature of each house

The highly skilled worker who makes hand-sewn buttonholes

A lapel buttonhole that has been whip-stitched, differentiating it from the other buttonholes

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

Signé Selection Owning a luxury object is one of life’s great pleasures. Signé Selection features products that define the lifestyle of those to whom quality is more important than price, while a sub-section titled For Her is devoted to a man’s significant other.

SIGNÉ SELECTION

PEARL OF ARABIA

pearl of

Arabia

THE BMW DRIVER IS A MAN OF SOPHISTICATION. HE IS A GENTLEMAN WHO APPRECIATES CLASSIC STYLE AS MUCH AS HE VALUES THE LATEST CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGIES. HIS CAR IS AT THE FOREFRONT OF THIS MINDSET. SIGNéÉ BRINGS THE WORLDS OF FASHION AND MOTORING TOGETHER THROUGH A PHOTO SHOOT INSPIRED BY THE CHARISMATIC PROTAGONIST OF THE GREAT GATSBY, SHOWCASING THE BMW 6 SERIES GRAN COUPé PEARL EDITION AS ITS STAR

Her Top : Versace Trousers : Proenza Schouler from Net-A-Porter.com Bag : Saint Laurent Necklace : Paspaley Watch : Hermèés Shoes : Salvatore Ferragamo Him Shirt, tie and shoes : Saint Laurent Watch : Hermés Dressage l’Heure Masquéée

SIGNÉ SELECTION

PEARL OF ARABIA

Her Necklace : Paspaley Coat, shirt and trousers : Hermés Shoes : Giuseppe Zanotti Him Tie : Lanvin from MrPorter.com Shirt : Thomas Pink Cardigan : John Smedley from MrPorter.com Watch : Hermés Dressage l’Heure Masquéée Trousers : Ralph Lauren Shoes : Christian Louboutin

Shirt : Ralph Lauren Tie : Alexander McQueen from MrPorter.com Jacket : Etro Cardigan : Bottega Veneta from MrPorter.com Watch : Hermés Dressage l’HeureTrousers Masquéée: Etro : Thomas Pink Trousers : AlexanderShirt McQueen Tie : Hermès Shoes : Christian Louboutin

Pullover : Zanone at Bloomingdale’s Head Scarf : Hermès Shoes : Christian Louboutin

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

SIGNÉ SELECTION

PEARL OF ARABIA

Her Jacket and skirt : Versace Necklace : Paspaley Dress : Saint Laurent Shoes : Salvatore Ferragamo Him Jacket and trousers : Balenciaga from mrporter.com Tie : Alexander McQueen from MrPorter.com Shirt : Saint Laurent

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

Her Jacket : Theory from Net-A-Porter.com Top : Acne Trousers : M Missoni Shoes and bag : Christian Louboutin Him Shirt, jacket and trousers : Saint Laurent Shoes : Christian Louboutin

SIGNÉ SELECTION

PEARL OF ARABIA

Shirt and trousers : Saint Laurent Tie : Alexander McQueen from Mrporter.com Watch : Hermés Dressage l’Heure Masquéée Braces : Stylist’s own

SIGNÃ&#x2030; SELECTION

PEARL OF ARABIA

Dress : Saint Laurent Tights : Wolford Shoes : Christian Louboutin

Her Jacket and skirt : Versace Necklace : Paspaley Dress : Saint Laurent Shoes : Salvatore Ferragamo

Photographer Adam Browning-hill Fashion stylist : Celia-Jane Ukwenya Hair and makeup : Marisol Steward Models: Adrian and Paulina Assistant photographer : Mohamed Ramzeen Location courtesy : Emirates Palace, Abu Dhabi

Him Jacket and trousers : Balenciaga from MrPorter.com Tie : Alexander McQueen from MrPorter.com Shirt : Saint Laurent

SIGNĂ&#x2030; â&#x2014;&#x160; EDITION 08

S PR E Z ZAT UR A WORD: SPREZ·ZA·TU·RA PRONUNCIATION: /ˌsprɛtsəˈt(j)ʊərə / sprāt-tsä-ˈtü-rä DEFINITION: rehearsed spontaneity, studied nonchalance and well-practised naturalness

Ralph Lauren SS15

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

SHADES OF BROWN

1. Pen : Montblanc 2. Bag : Salvatore Ferragamo 3. Watch : Piaget 4. Shoes : Santoni

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

S PR E Z ZAT UR A

Ralph Lauren SS15

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08 6

ALL IN BLUE 1. Glasses : Tod’s 2. Bag : Santoni 3. Tie bar : Christian Dior 4. Cufflinks : Christian Dior 5. Shoes : Tod’s

3 4

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

S PR E Z ZAT UR A

Ralph Lauren SS15

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

NAUTICAL STYLE 1. Bag : Gucci 2. Belt : Christian Dior 3. Cufflinks : Salvatore Ferragamo 4. Loafers : Salvatore Ferragamo

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S PR E Z ZAT UR A

THE TRIBUTE 1. Sandals : John Lobb 2. Riva sandals : John Lobb 3. Darius Cacao Sandals : Berluti 4. Darius Cashmere Sandals : Berluti

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

LUXE TOUCH 1. Aftershave and shaving cream : Bottega Veneta 2. Body scrub and face mask : Bia & Ule

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FOR HER

LADY ARPELS PAPILLON EXTRAORDINAIRE MALACHITE B Y VA N C L E E F & A R P E L S

One decade ago, Van Cleef & Arpels brought its dazzling watch and jewellery collections to the Middle East. Now, in celebration of its 10th anniversary in the region, the brand unveiled an exclusive limited edition timepiece. Designed with the Arabian client in mind, the Lady Arpels Papillon Extraordinaire Malachite is a perfect example of the brand’s world-famous jewellery dials. Clever use of light and colour brings the gold motif of a butterfly to life on the dial. Its coloured wings, made through plique-à-jour enameling, appear to hover over a bed of diamonds, while a backdrop of deep malachite heightens the picture of nature. To compete the striking façade, over 100 diamonds are set to magnify the extravagance of the watch and a delicate white strap adds a feminine finishing touch. With all elements considered, the timepiece really is a work of art.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

FOR HER

RICKY BAG WITH LIGHT BY R A L P H L AU R E N

The Ricky Bag is one of Ralph Lauren’s most distinguished collections. Inspired by the designer’s wife, Ricky, the sophisticated accessories are handmade in Italy and designed to represent enduring glamour. The Ricky Bag With Light is the newest addition to the range. On the surface, the smooth box calfskin bag fits in with the existing line, featuring the customary Ricky Bag silhouette and the collection’s signature lock and key clasp. Inside, however, lies a surprising discovery. Combining glamour with functionality, the bag features a phone charging USB port and an LED light, carefully concealed in the rich purple Nappa leather interior. A rechargeable battery is also hidden to charge the port and light while on the go. This technologically advanced accessory is far more than a piece of arm candy; it’s the future of luxury fashion.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

FOR HER

Made in Italy MARCO BICEGO JEWELLERY MAKES THE PERFECT GIFT FOR LOVERS OF LUXURY QUALITY AND EXPERT CRAFTSMANSHIP THIS NEW YEAR

On the first day of the new millennium, history was made for one

which are very artisanal,” he says, explaining how Bicego gold achieves its brushed satin,

is a celebration of nature. A variety of light 18-carat gold necklaces and earrings feature

Italian jewellery maker, Marco Bicego. The New Year is, typically, a famous time for fresh beginnings and on January 1, 2000, Bicego selected this special time to launch his own eponymous company. Jewellery has been a part of the designer’s life since he was a young boy. “I grew up in the family jewellery business,” explains Bicego. “Gold, in particular, is part of our history. It has been part of my blood since I was a child.” Before branching off on his own, Bicego worked in his father’s business where he learnt the jewellery trade from the inside out. Over time, he began to explore and develop his own unique style, which resulted in the brand we know today. “I took yellow gold, which is part of the DNA of my family and I added a modern approach that’s unique and personal. I wanted to create jewellery that’s for every day, that would be versatile and a great compromise between being modern and timeless,” he says. Intricate handmade craftsmanship is the backbone of the company. “We have some

rather than shiny, effect. “Another technique is the wire method that my father passed down to me,” he adds. Also known as the guitar string technique, this manual twisting creates a distinctive wave-like pattern in jewellery pieces, which has become another hallmark of the collections. The brand has also developed its own characteristics with regards to materials used. Bicego explains: “We match yellow gold [which is always 18-carat] with unique semi-precious multi-coloured stones. We were one of the first brands to introduce this colour combination.” Marco Bicego boasts a number of jewellery collections for women. Many are inspired by, and named after, places such as Jaipur, Il Cairo, Africa and Goa. There are also collections dedicated to other concepts such as Murano, a collection that’s inspired by Venetian waterways and features large coloured gems, and Paradise, a delicate line displaying an abundance of small gemstones, among others. The inspiration behind each collection is evident on sight.

irregular hand-moulded leaf replicas that are put together in such a way to reflect the gentle movement of leaves in the wind. The addition of stunning sky blue natural stones on select pieces creates a splash of colour within the gold palette. Bicego’s Venetian roots come across in every piece. From the handmade craftsmanship to the use of timeless jewels, everything about the brand cries Italianstandard quality. Jewellery enthusiasts don’t need to travel to Europe to explore the brand, however, as Marco Bicego collections can be explored at Damas boutiques across Dubai. No matter where you buy, though, the quality will be the same. The designer holds his craftsmen in high regard for achieving this feat. “If we make 1,000 pieces, all 1,000 pieces have to be done in the same way, with the same quality and the same dedication. I have amazing artisans. They are people that grew up with me and I know them very well. They’re part of my family,” says Bicego, revealing the unique compromise between heritage and modernity that resonates

unique techniques, such as hand-engraving,

The brand’s newest, Lunaria, for example,

through every aspect of the brand.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

Marco Bicego

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

FOR HER

LUNARIA BY MARC O B I C EG O

Marc Bicego’s newest collection, Lunaria, stretches the limit of creativity. The distinctive range of necklaces, bracelets, earring and rings was created to symbolise nature. While the design differs from previous ranges by displaying gold ‘leaves’ instead chains and beads, pieces are still made from the brand’s customary 18-carat gold. The use of blue stones adds a flash of colour, almost like a hint of sky showing between a tree’s leaves.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

Philanthropy Generosity is a barometer by which greatness can be measured. This section introduces the charitable and environmental efforts of brands and companies that choose to be considerate towards the world we all live in today.

PHILANTHROPY

FROM THE ASHES

From the Ashes Luxury brand Chopard reinforces its commitment to cinema by collaborating to restore one of Italy’s most influential film studios, Cinecittà

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

Chopard Co-President Caroline Scheufele (right) with guests Luisa Ranieri and Luigi Abete at the unveiling of Cinecittà’s new façade

Each year, filmmakers and screen stars walk the red carpets of the

produced thousands of feature films for both international and Italian cinema. The studio

reconstruct the original wall murals. Working on a clean canvas, the artists recreated

world’s most exclusive events laden with Chopard jewels. As cameras flash, their jewellery sparkles, reflecting in the lenses a perception of wealth and elegance that makes the wearer look and feel, glamorous. This isn’t where the luxury jewellery brand’s relationship with cinema ends, however. For over a decade the company, driven by the aspirations of Co-President and Creative Director Caroline Scheufele, has sponsored a number of film festivals and supported many special film-related projects. Perhaps the most notable venture is the Palm D’Or, a striking gold palm trophy crafted by Chopard and awarded to the winners of the best film in the official selection during Cannes Film Festival each year. The Palm d’Or is one of the movie industry’s most coveted prizes and, for the 2014 edition, Chopard exhibited its commitment to sustainable development by crafting it from certified Fairmined gold. Now, the brand enhances its relationship with the movie industry with a new philanthropic mission that draws attention and funding from the screen to the root of Italian cinema.

is particularly famed for producing classic motion pictures such as La Dolce Vita and Satyricon and international hits like Cleopatra, as well as contemporary blockbusters including Martin Scorsese’s Gangs of New York. Literally translated to ‘Cinema City’, Cinecittà has been a significant platform for Italian filmmaking since it opened its doors in 1937. The work of the studio has propelled directors such as Federico Fellini and Franco Zeffirelli into the limelight and its many productions have made a substantial impact on placing Italian cinema on the map. However, much production was halted in 2007 and then again in 2012 when fires tore through the studio, destroying much of the premises. In an attempt to preserve the studio’s heritage, Chopard has embarked on a three-year plan to renovate and restore the studio to its former glory. The first stage, recently unveiled in front of a crowd of Oscar-winners and top filmmakers, has already been completed. All worn and weathered paint was removed from the walls and replaced. Skilled artisans

the designs using the same ingredients and pigments as the originals set in place last century. They worked in collaboration with researchers at historic monument department Roma Capitale to ensure the copies were identical and, as such, the result is as though time never passed. The next stages of development will include further renovations to the building and restoration of many rolls of famous cult films that were made at Cinecittà. Chopard’s collaboration with the studio is part of the brand’s on-going commitment to the ‘seventh art’ of cinema, as it referred to throughout France. For over a decade the company has sponsored numerous film festivals and events that are connected to the big screen and beautiful jewellery pieces and watches have been lent to the world’s leading stars to make them feel special as they enjoy their moment in the spotlight. Just as Chopard’s diamonds are ageless, the dream for this project is that, with a little support, Italian cinema will continue to prosper and that the studio will rise from the ashes and

Cinecittà is one of the largest film studios in Europe. Situated in Rome, it has

who specialise in traditional restoration techniques were then brought in to

continue to create Oscar-winning hits for many years to come.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

PHILANTHROPY

LEADERS OF TOMORROW

LEADERS OF TOMORROW EMIRATES FOUNDATION IS HELPING EMIRATI YOUTHS TO BECOME VALUABLE MEMBERS OF THEIR COMMUNITIES AND MAKE SOMETHING MONUMENTAL OUT OF THEIR LIVES BY RACHEL INGRAM

It is often said that children are our future. This is nowhere more

in Takatof projects so far. These can vary drastically from working at sporting events

true than in the UAE. Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Vice President and Prime Minister of the UAE and Ruler of Dubai, recently reaffirmed his confidence in this belief, saying on Twitter, the platform of the youth: “I have strong faith in the great potential of our Arab youth and their ability to, one day, transform the future of this region.” The Abu Dhabi government agrees with

such as the Abu Dhabi Etihad Airways Formula 1 Grand Prix and supporting cultural events to volunteering in medical facilities and taking part in environmental activities such as beach clean-ups. Al Habsi explains that the scheme is so successful because the foundation selects projects that are interesting and relevant to young people today. She adds: “What also makes a youth

this testament. Ten years ago it launched an initiative to support young people entitled the Emirates Foundation. The organisation believes that the young are the leaders of tomorrow but understands that the modern world can often be seen as an overwhelming place. As such, it offers young Emiratis a helping hand to realise their full potential and start making a difference for themselves, their families and their peers. “We believe that the young are powerful resources in developing their countries and contributing to their communities,” says Chief Programmes Officer Maytha Al Habsi. “Youths need a lot of guidance. Emirates Foundation is working to empower youths by providing programmes to help them navigate the complexity of the current options that are available.” The foundation currently has six active programmes. The first to launch and most successful to date is Takatof; a volunteer programme which encourages young people to positively aid their communities while developing essential life and career

love volunteering is the fact that, here in the UAE, there is a great sense of love for the country and for the leadership. We have a great loyalty for what the country is offering us so I think part of it is also that youths continuously feel willing to give back.” Often volunteers who impress will receive a job from their experience volunteering with a company, Al Habsi explains, citing examples of Takatof alumni employed by a special needs centre. Another thriving volunteer project is Sanid, a medical aid programme that trains young nationals with emergency response techniques so they can safeguard their fellow countrymen should a crisis arise. Other Emirates Foundation initiatives focus on career- and skills-building such as financial management and leadership, plus teacher assistant projects and schemes to get Emirati youths interested in essential research fields such as science. The foundation has excellent support from across the UAE, including the royal family. Arguably the biggest supporter is

skills at the same time. Around 40,000 young Emiratis have signed up to take part

UAE Foreign Minister His Highness Sheikh Abdullah bin Zayed Al Nahyan, who is also

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

PHILANTHROPY

LEADERS OF TOMORROW

Panel debate at the 2014 Emirates Foundation Youth Philanthropy Summit

Chairman of Emirates Foundation. “Our Chairman is very well known among youths,” says Al Habsi. “He is directly involved in what we do, he supports us, he is active in our events, he attends volunteering programmes, he volunteers with us and he continuously guides the foundation management team on ideas. We have great support from His Highness, but more than his support is his direct engagement with us and with youths.” The latest idea that the Chairman implemented is the Emirates Award for the Arabian Gulf Youth. The award scheme encourages the young to create social enterprise ideas to solve issues that their community faces. The three winning applicants then receive a grant ranging from AED50,000 to AED100,000 and a yearlong mentorship to help get their idea up and running. Unlike the foundation’s other programmes, the award is open to the whole of the Middle East. “The reason behind this was that we share the same challenges and the same opportunities across the region,” Al Habsi explains. “Opening the award up to

other.” In 2014, ‘Factory of Dreams’ from the UAE won first place, Waterproof Hearing Aid from the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia won the second place and Lunch Box from Bahrain came third. Another new project that has gained excellent traction since its launch two years ago is the Emirates Foundation Youth Philanthropy Summit. The annual summit invites top experts in philanthropy from around the world to speak to and interact with local youths during a series of panel debates. The summit also offers a platform for experts from relevant fields such as leadership and social enterprises to connect with young people and for the foundation to exhibit its accomplishments. The Chairman, HH Sheikh Abdullah, describes the two-day event as “a strategic platform utilising thought leadership and pioneering institutions to discuss how philanthropy can be more impactful and helping youths meet their fullest potential while creating positive sustainable social value. The summit aims to discuss emerging trends in venture philanthropy and its

Tahnoon Al Nahyan, Chairman of Abu Dhabi’s Transport Department and Chairman of Abu Dhabi Tourism & Culture Authority, and Managing Director of the Emirates Foundation, adds: “The most distinguishing feature of this summit is its focus on youth, which is in line with the foundation’s vision of investing in young people and enabling them to contribute towards building the future of the country. The foundation has positioned itself as the centre for exchanging experiences, lessons learned on how to promote the culture of giving, youth development and implementation of social investments based on partnership and co-operation, innovation and creativity, together with the belief that understanding the needs of the young is the best way to achieve success.” As for what’s next, Emirates Foundation plans to scale up its programmes and offer services to more youths, not just in Abu Dhabi but also across the whole of the UAE. HH Sheikh Abdullah concludes: “We still have a long journey ahead of us with challenges to overcome. However, we can still achieve

GCC countries enables us to be able to share and exchange ideas and learn from each

effectiveness in youth empowerment.” His Excellency Sheikh Sultan

many things through developing the youth.”

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

Bin

empowering

and

‫رخهسسثسزخ‬ Obsession Obsession The world of luxury favours those who know the true worth of exquisite possessions and will never settle for less than perfection. Obsession

introduces precious bespoke items and collectibles that are designed for the most discerning and sophisticated luxury aficionados.

The world of luxury favours those who know the true worth of exquisite possessions and will never settle for less than perfection. Obsession introduces precious bespoke items and collectibles that are designed for the most discerning and sophisticated luxury aficionados.

COVER STORY

WHEN IN ROME

CEO of Bulgari Jean-Christophe Babin

I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y D A M I A N O G R O P P I

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WHEN IN ROME BULGARI IS A NAME IDENTIFIABLE WITH THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE. FROM FINE JEWELLERY AND WATCHES TO HIGH-END HOTELS, THE COMPANY CONTINUES TO TAKE ITS VISION OF LUXURY TO ALL CORNERS OF THE GLOBE

The story of Bulgari is legendary. Founder Sotirio Voulgaris was born in 1857 in Acheron above the Temple of Zeus which lay near the source of the River Styx in northwest Greece. Here, as he grew up, Voulgaris learnt the art of silversmithing, handed down from a time before the Byzantines – the Eastern Roman Empire – at its height during the Middle Ages. In 1881, Voulgaris moved to Rome, which, during the late 19th century, had risen once again to become the capital of the newly unified Italy. In 1884, the jeweller opened his first shop selling beautiful jewellery, drawing from Italian history and heritage, that would revolutionise the industry and spawn its own empire. Bulgari is a nexus of empires. Inspired by Greek, Roman and Byzantine art, luxury power house and parent company LVMH is today a modern empire. Yet there is a subtle originality evident in its approach to design. The company believes that each piece can take its wearer on a journey invoking, firstly, a snapshot of the time way back when the precious stones were first formed, then

Accompanying Nicola Bulgari, who is currently at the helm of the modern company, are JeanChristophe Babin as CEO and Fabrizio Buonamassa, Watch Design Centre Director. These three men are committed to Sotirio Voulgaris’ founding principle of enhancing the company’s heritage through innovation. “We have been going through the Bulgari story together to try to define, in a few simple words, what the brand’s DNA encompasses. The company’s structure and the brand’s versatility has obviously been influenced by Rome and additionally, Bulgari jewellery, when worn, can be very dressed up or very dressed down,” says Babin. For 18 months, Babin has been busy analysing Bulgari’s obvious magic to create a plan for the brand’s future and a true identity moving forward. “I have been scrutinising collections that have been successful across the decades such as Parentesi and B.Zero1,” he says. “I want to set up a framework for creativity which should, in the end, take up about 80 percent of allocated creative space. It is important for a luxury brand to work within a frame, be it an asymmetric one or a square one. I want to

forward to when they were gouged from the rock and finally beyond, to their ultimate settings.

make sure we maintain a strong frame overall for a very unique and compelling identity.”

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COVER STORY

WHEN IN ROME

Sitirio Bulgari’s boutique in Rome named The Old Curiosity Shop after a Charles Dickens novel

Babin feels a great personal synergy with the brand and the lifestyle that Bulgari evokes: “Firstly, I feel Italian, being half Italian myself, so it is maybe more than coincidence that I ended up at Bulgari,” he says. “Secondly, the other half of me is Latin French from the South of France.” He adds: “Luxury has very much influenced the brand’s overall image. Bulgari would not be Bulgari had it not been born in Rome, one of longest-established and richest cities in the world.” Babin also sees success as both quintessentially part of the Italian psyche and reflected in the brand itself. “Italy is a country which, despite a lot of political and social issues through decades of change, has managed, over the last 30 centuries, to always come out on top. This is because the country has an extremely optimistic, positive and entrepreneurial approach,” he says. It’s

BULGARI FINE JEWELLERY At the heart of Bulgari is its jewellery-making. “I think it is the ultimate expression of refinement, exclusivity and personality. That is why there is so much diversity in jewellery,” says Babin. “I buy jewellery for my wife and one of the criteria is knowing her rather well; we have been together for 20 years. I know that she likes pretty contemporary designs so, not surprisingly, I have bought Bulgari for her because it is contemporary.” Bulgari further sets itself apart as a highend jewellery house by borrowing the idea of creating a prêt-à-porter collection from the world of fashion. “The stones and the colours that we mix together makes us quite different from others,” says Babin. “Some of it is rather masculine jewellery. If you look at the B.Zero1 collection, the Collosseo is a very

quite a statement. It is bold jewellery for audacious women. The Diva is very delicate but, then again, you cannot reduce Bulgari pieces to just one statement.” Bulgari jewellery transcends cultures. “People in the UAE love a certain opulence,” says Babin. “They like volumetric, colourful jewellery and Bulgari is all about that because, thanks to our roots in Rome, we have inherited this tradition of structure, of architecture and volumetric creativity which is related to the jewels, the watches and to the architecture.” So what is it that brings Babin the most happiness? He answers: “After so much travelling, visiting museums and meeting different people, I arrive back home with ideas which may lead to a new watch or a new piece of jewellery. It is exciting as a job because creativity has no ceiling. The real

the same positive energy that first attracted Voulgaris to Rome.

architectural piece. Not every woman would wear this type of design because it makes

magic is to see clients’ eyes sparkling with desire when they see the final piece.”

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Bulgari necklace presented to Elizabeth Taylor as a wedding gift by her husband Richard Burton

“I buy jewellery for my wife and one of the criteria is knowing her rather well; we have been together for 20 years. I know that she likes pretty contemporary designs so, not surprisingly, I have bought Bulgari for her because it is contemporary” JEAN-CHRISTOPHE BABIN

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COVER STORY

WHEN IN ROME

Bulgari High Jewellery Serpenti timepiece

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“We liken this kind of high-end watchmaking to Formula 1 cars, which are obviously all about the engine. In watchmaking, it’s all about the movement. We, like Formula 1, are turning dreams into reality” JEAN-CHRISTOPHE BABIN

BULGARI WATCHES Bulgari’s watchmaking business

Finnissimo tourbillon exceptionally inspirational: “It’s not because Bulgari invented Finissimo.

began in the 1970s in Rome and it now ranks closely in importance to the company’s signature jewellery collections. “The brand is unique in that it merges iconic design elements that come from Italian culture together with amazing skills in terms of watchmaking. This is so important for us and, for

Finnissmo is extraordinary because elegance is always essential to a watch. Owning a 195mm tourbillon, especially, allows you the pleasure of the tourbillon itself but retaining the elegance.” Bulgari won the jewellery watch award at the 2014 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genéve. “The

this reason, we decided to move the design centre to Neufchatel in Switzerland from Rome.” Fabrizio Buonamassa, Watch Design Centre Director, explains: “If you want to produce amazing watches, such as the Commedia dell’Arte, Octo, or Lucea, you have to be close to the manufacturing side to discuss technicality and design every day. So we like to work this way with our watchmakers. They produce these amazing timepieces but we also want to produce them the Bulgari way.” “We liken this kind of high-end watchmaking to Formula 1 cars, which are obviously all about the engine. In watchmaking, it’s all about the movement. We, like Formula 1, are turning dreams into reality,” he adds. “In addition, it is difficult to design and draw these kinds of watches because they are so thin. When you put some lines on paper, they are already thicker than the real watch.” “After a month has gone by,” Buonamassa

watch masters, often breaking the rules to achieve the thinnest movement.” Babin spent 12 years working in the watchmaking industry before his move to Bulgari which helped to develop a keen watch-collecting habit. “I started in my late 30s when I bought my first expensive watch. Since taking on my role at Bulgari, my collection has become pretty rich,” he says. When pressed about his favourite brand, he replies simply: “That’s a difficult question. You can’t really say you love watches but only one particular brand or that you like jewellery but only one brand. It would be like

winning watch was our Diva; a fantastic achievement because Diva was only introduced last year,” says Babin. The striking timepiece, titled the Bulgari Diva High Jewellery Emeralds, is truly distinctive and is so precious it holds a retail price of US$745,000 (AED2.7 million). “Besides the craftsmanship of the bracelet, which is very sophisticated with a lot of those small ‘Diva’ symbols, there are 10 carats of emeralds, 10 carats of diamonds and 444 diamonds,” adds Babin. “They all have to be of the same colour and this is very difficult with emeralds. They have to be the same texture and the same cut, so it took a long time to find matching stones. It is a beautiful piece with more than 600 gems, making it really unique and the height of craftsmanship.” The timepiece is just one part of the brand’s exceptional Diva collection, which encompasses fine jewellery pieces and watches that have, in the short time since

continues, “we have a clear idea of what we want and we work even more closely with the

loving art but only one painter.” Babin admits, however, to finding the

their inception, already been worn by royals and famous persons the world over.

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COVER STORY

WHEN IN ROME

The Bulgari Commedia dell’Arte timepiece, inspired by Italian theatre

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Bulgari Hotel London

BULGARI HOTELS Just when it seemed like Bulgari was firmly set in the channels of jewellery and watchmaking, the company established Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, opening hotels in London and Milan and a resort in Bali. In true Bulgari style, each venue is located in the best possible location. The grand Bulgari Hotel London is situated in the heart of Knightsbridge, the neighbourhood of the rich and famous. Bulgari Hotel Milan is an oasis of calm in the middle of the city and can be found close to a botanical garden on a private street that’s a stone’s throw from upscale shopping street Via Montenapoleone. Meanwhile, the Bulgari Resort Bali is set on the coast with breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean. The company dipped further into hospitality by setting up Tokyo-Osaka Restaurants. So far this entails a Michelinstarred Italian restaurant, a lounge and a bar in Ginz, Tokyo, plus a café and chocolate shop

distinctive décor and fine cuisine combine to offer an exclusive contemporary dining experience, no matter the venue. Bulgari’s plan for world domination doesn’t end there, however. Upcoming projects see the company heading back to Asia to open hotels in Shanghai in 2016, Beijing in 2017 and Dubai in 2018. The latter project, set up in collaboration with Meraas Holding, will be a luxury marine resort located on the exclusive Jumeirah Bay Island. Designed by Italian architectural firm Antonio Citterio Patricia Viel and Partners in the shape of a titanic seahorse, the innovative establishment will feature 100 suites, 20 villas, lush gardens and a marina where highflying guests can dock their yachts. Although Babin is doubtless no stranger to Bulgari’s range of luxury hotels and spas, he often opts for a simpler life away from the hustle and bustle. “I spend most of my free time travelling with my family. We go backpacking to very remote islands to go

climbing volcanoes.” Babin’s dream holiday would be an island where he could be alone with his family for a week. “The Maldives is a good fit as they have so many small islands. Maybe there’s one the perfect size for us.” This is a similar precedent set by the brand as a whole. There’s no one-size-fitsall mentality with Bulgari. Many of its fine jewellery pieces and watches are bespoke while with regards to retail collections, not one is the same. From the brand’s famous Serpenti bracelet watches that wind around a wearer’s wrist like a snake, to the new B.zero1 capsule collection of statement rings, necklaces and cuffs featuring colourful rings of marble, each line is distinctive yet unique and reflects the company’s dedication to expert craftsmanship. Whether a gem-studded necklace or a luxury lounge, everything linked to the Bulgari name epitomises a luxury lifestyle afforded by a lucky few. Into what aspect of life the company will expand next is unknown, but

in the city of Osaka. Each establishment is designed to reflect the Bulgari brand, where

diving. All my children now have their diving certificates but we also like trekking or

looking at the brand’s history, admirers of the brand can expect great things.

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OBSESSION

THE KING OF COOL

THE

KING OF COOL STEVE MCQUEEN WAS A ONE-OF-A-KIND ACTOR WITH AN ACUTE SENSE OF STYLE. WHETHER ON-OR OFF-SCREEN, HE POSSESSED A CERTAIN SAVOIR-FAIRE THAT MADE HIS FASHIONS AS LEGENDARY AS THE MAN THEY CLOTHED BY CAMERON BAILEY

Steve McQueen was a man’s man. Reserved yet rugged with a quiet charisma and a powerful aura, women were drawn to him and men aspired to be him. He was best known for his role in The Great Escape, but it was two low-budget films released in 1968, Bullitt and The Thomas Crown Affair, that cast him as a legend both on- and off-screen. His part as protagonist Thomas Crown in The Thomas Crown Affair was a particularly memorable performance and set McQueen apart from his peers, not only in terms of his acting ability but also his style. Set in Boston, the movie is a thriller that takes viewers through a metaphorical game of chess. Crown is a multi-millionaire banker who has it all, yet plays a dangerous game of ‘double or quit’ when he stages not one but two bank heists. Success brings him riches but satisfaction and happiness fails to follow and he becomes a man conflicted between enjoying his wealth and being weighed down by it. McQueen’s intense performance is mirrored by his nemesis and love interest, detective Vicki Anderson played by Faye Dunaway. The film marks out its antiheroes by their superb dress sense. Fashion is used as a tool to symbolise the relationship each character has with the leading man. All those allied with Crown have an excellent sense of style, particularly the flamboyantly glamorous Vicki Anderson. The bank robbers that Crown hires are dressed to the nines in sharp jazz suits, ties, black wraparound sunglasses and short brimmed Trilby hats. On the surface, these men would not look out of place in the coolest of jazz clubs in the 1960s. His enemies, on the other hand, look the opposite. The police are shabby and badly dressed in creased shirts, without jackets or ties; only their superior officer looks remotely groomed. These characters are purposely dressed to look dull and ordinary compared to the brilliant Crown. From the moment of Crown’s first appearance we cannot take our eyes off him. Whether he is dressed for the office, out flying his yellow glider or wearing a simple T-shirt to a polo match, he exudes effortless polish. In general, his clothes are drawn from a restricted palette of blue, grey, orange and, in one scene, a brown suit with a

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OBSESSION

THE KING OF COOL

Steve McQueen’s character Thomas Crown exudes an effortless style at any occassion

golden mustard tie. McQueen’s famous brilliant blue eyes, described as “ice” by Anderson during the movie, are reflected in nearly everything he wears, drives, flies or rides. Also maintaining a sense of class in every detail, Crown’s vehicles are customised; his black Rolls-Royce bears the number plate TC 100 while his orange dune buggy is badged TC 300. Crown is a modern man who lends crispness to everything he wears. There are, however, two key elements of the character’s wardrobe that have found their place in sartorial cinematic history: his three-piece suits and his eyewear. Perhaps the most enduring icon is his Persol 714 sunglasses featuring dark amber frames and blue

(AED260,000) during a sale of McQueen’s personal belongings. Persol has long been an admired brand of high-performance optics but the actor elevated the brand to a whole new level of desirability. The brand was founded by Turin photographer and owner of Berry Opticians Giuseppe Ratti in 1917 and named after the Italian phrase ‘per il sol’ which means ‘for the sun’. The initial models were designed like goggles and fitted with high-performance lenses, created for pilots and drivers in the then emerging sport of motor racing. As such, Persol sunglasses were initially sought-after by the likes of sportsmen, racers and mountain explorers who took them on explorations of the world’s greatest peaks.

lenses. So famous are these glasses that in 2006, Bonhams auction house sold the original pair to an anonymous bidder for US$70,000

Over time, technical optics evolved into stylish design. Ironically, it was the 649 series featuring strong frames and large lenses, originally

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designed to protect tram drivers’ eyes, that became one of the most iconic eyewear designs of the time. Repeatedly copied by other

continues to be a very popular tailoring house in London to this day. The legendary suit made for McQueen in The Thomas Crown

firms, the 649 series became legendary in 1961 when actor Marcello Mastroianni wore them in the film Divorce Italian Style. Following this, came the 714 series; the world’s first collapsible frames. McQueen was a great fan of Persol sunglasses, especially as he was an avid racecar enthusiast away from the set. In fact, it is rumoured that the Persol 471 sunglasses used on the The Thomas Crown Affair were his personal addition to his character’s

Affair is a 13oz-14oz wool grey three-piece, cut from muted Glen Plaid, also known as ‘Prince of Wales check’. It is a single-breasted suit with a two-buttoned front and notch lapel. Hayward’s signature touches include long vent and fish-tale cuffs with a single button on each sleeve. The coat also has straight-flapped hip pockets, while the shoulders are roped on large sleeve heads. The overall cut reflects a wellsuppressed waist to accentuate a

style. Pairing such directional eyewear with three-piece suits elevated the protagonist’s ensemble to a level far above the mundane world of men’s workwear. As a result, in 2011, Persol released a Steve McQueen edition of the 471, honouring the actor. So what of McQueen’s illustrious

“racing is life. anything before or after is just waiting” STEVE MCQUEEN

long, strong silhouette. The waistcoat is single-breasted without lapels and has five dark horn buttons. The waistcoat accentuates McQueen’s slim but taut physique and is finished with straight-cut bottom and two low hip pockets. Both the coat and waistcoat are lined with the same

suit? Interestingly, it was not made by a famous Savile Row tailor but by a man called Douglas Hayward. Born in the harsh back streets of London’s East End – an area that had been all but razed to rubble during the Blitz – Hayward searched for a career to take him away from the darkness and the poverty he had been born into. Aged 15, while looking through a list of possible career paths, his eyes lit on T for ‘tailor’. “I don’t know any tailors,” he revealed at the time. “I can’t ever be judged as being a bad or a good one, so I’ll be a tailor.” Hayward applied for an apprenticeship at a

blue silk. The whole ensemble is closely form fitting, including the trousers which are high-rise to end just under the waistcoat and flat-fronted with plain hemmed bottoms. Frogmouth pockets, also known for being the pocket of choice for the equally stylish James Bond (Roger Moore was also dressed by Hayward when he played Bond in the 1980s), add a finishing touch. Like many of the great icons of his generation, McQueen’s life was tragically cut short in 1980. However, he remains, to this day, one of cinema’s greatest icons of style. While alive, McQueen lived life to

Savile Row tailors but his working-class Cockney accent barred him from the famous street where accents were frowned upon. Instead, he worked with a tailor in Shepherd’s Bush before opening his own shop in Mayfair some years later. As a rising tailor to the stars, he made his store a haven for relaxed style. It was the opposite of Savile Row. “You won’t find any stag’s head or a picture of the Queen mum in here,” he is quoted as saying. After his death in 2008, the shop

the full. He once said: “Racing is life. Anything before or after is just waiting.” Looking back, this ideology can be applied to every aspect of his life, from his dangerous yet thrilling hobby, to his often bold and iconic fashion choices that earned him the nickname of ‘the king of cool’. Whether on- or off-screen, McQueen was the quintessential gentleman and his life will be relived through his motion pictures for many years to come.

Persol 714 sunglasses were much-loved by Steve McQueen both on and off screen

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OBSESSION

SWING IN TIME

SWING IN TIME GOLF AND TIMEKEEPING ARE INSEPARABLE. AUDEMARS PIGUET HITS A HOLE IN ONE WITH THE GENTLEMAN’S SPORT THROUGH A LONG HISTORY OF DEVOTION BY RACHEL INGRAM

Dubai may be a city set collaboration with luxury Swiss watch in the desert but, over the past few years, it manufacturer Audemars Piguet. The brand has become one of the top golfing hubs of understands that sports and timekeeping the world. This may have seemed a strange are inextricably linked. It boasts strong concept a few decades ago as natural lawns relationships with a number sports and, in the Emirates were few and far between but, in particular, golf, sponsoring many of the as the coastal city also boasts the world’s ambassadors of the sport, including Jiménez, largest indoor ski slope, it seems anything is legendary British golfers Sir Nick Faldo and possible. When the problem of growing grass Lee Westwood and South African pro Louis was overcome with the importation of turf and Oosthuizen. The brand’s ambassadors also a whole lot of water, an unstoppable industry include the likes of Henrik Stenson, winner was born. The consistently good weather of the DP World Tour Championship, and conditions make the UAE the optimum place runner-up Victor Dubuisson. Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph to practise golf for at least 10 months of the Nicolas Garzouzi, CEO of Audemars year. As such, a number of world-class golf clubs and courses have Piguet Middle East, says the company shares many values with its found a home in the Emirates. ambassadors. “They have control, they are meticulous and they are Every year, clubs across Dubai host a wealth of competitive and passionate about what they do; this is what we are, as well. We have friendly competitions at which some of the top golfers in the world partnered with quite a few ambassadors, including the champions of regularly partake. Famous Spanish Golfer Miguel Angel Jiménez said the DP World Tour Championship in Dubai. They best convey the value on his recent trip for the DP World Tour Championship: “I’ve been of our house wherever they go, not only when playing.” coming to Dubai for many years and it’s always very nice. Dubai Seven top golfing stars and ambassadors were present at Els Club courses are in great condition. You have the sun, you have water and Dubai to take part in a friendly game with watch collectors from around you have the perfect temperature here for golf.” the world as part of the Audemars Piguet Golf Invitation. This annual While in Dubai, Jiménez also took part in a special event in

event was hosted in the UAE for the first time in November 2014 and

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Golfer Ian Poulter

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OBSESSION

SWING IN TIME

Audemars Piguet Global CEO François-Henry Bennahmias (fourth from left) with top golfers and brand ambassadors in Dubai

welcomed the brand’s top clients to discover the emirates. Garzouzi says: “Dubai is very well-known and there are so many beautiful golf courses. Els Club Dubai is among the most prestigious and it wanted

The watch is distinctive both inside and out. The timepiece looks fierce and for good reason. The forged carbon case provides a strong skin while a black ceramic bezel holds the decorative dial

to have this event in Dubai and invite countries and collectors from all over the world.” Around 90 people from 17 countries attended for three days of events and functions, culminating in the friendly game. As well as sponsoring ambassadors, acting as official timekeeper for sporting competitions around the world and throwing its own events, Audemars Piguet has created a collection of luxury sports watches for men under the umbrella Royal Oak Offshore. Models in the collection are more dynamic than the typical sports watch. Dramatic aesthetics combine with high-tech components and materials, such as forged carbon and grade five titanium that have been engineered to ensure protection whether wearers are playing a round of golf or racing a sports car. The newest edition, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph, takes the range to another level. Garzouzi says: “It’s a very important milestone for our company because it’s the first time we’ve done an automatic movement on the Off Shore and Tourbillion at the same time. It’s equipped with an in-

in place. A glare-proofed sapphire crystal caseback allows wearers a peek of the meticulously crafted 335-part calibre. The dial, meanwhile, is decorated with the brand’s famed Méga Tapisseries pattern. A black rubber bracelet with titanium pin buckle adds the finishing touch. “The whole combination of savoir faire and innovative materials makes it a really important milestone, whether we’re talking about the movement, the aesthetic or the outside shape of the watch,” adds Garzouzi. Also part of the Royal Oak collection is a number of limited edition chronographs inspired by and named after sports stars such as two of the globe’s top Formula 1 drivers Michael Schumacher and Sébastien Buemi and world-famous basketball player LeBron James. Whether golfers or racers, sportsmen of this type all share the same values as the brand, explains Garzouzi. It is undeniable that there’s a strong link between sports and timekeeping, between players and watches. Companies such as Audemars Piguet are devoted to

house calibre 2897 and it’s a limited edition of 50 pieces for the whole world.”

CEO of Audemars Piguet Middle East Nicolas Garzouzi

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strengthening this relationship through all channels possible.

Heritage Behind every brand of note there are stories of success and failure, trial and tribulation. However, it is these tales that define a brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity. Here, the narrative of a brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history is shared, from humble beginnings to present-day triumphs and every story on the way.

GOLDEN ERA

Work in Progress ASTONISHING ADVANCEMENTS IN TECHNOLOGY MADE GREAT BRITAIN’S VICTORIAN ERA ONE OF THE MOST DYNAMIC IN ITS ENTIRE HISTORY

B Y C H A R L O T T E VA N D E N B R O U C Q U E

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In the history of the United Kingdom there has never been a longer reigning monarch than Queen Victoria. Inheriting the throne in 1837 when only 18, she ushered in an era that, by her death in 1901, would see the world a very

Grimshaw, Whistler and Monet all captured the industrial glory of the capital during their lifetimes. However, it was the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood led by Rosetti, Hunt and Millais that dominated the art and poetry scene of the time, returning to the Quattrocento Italian

machine in the mid 19th century allowed for increasingly lavish clothes that could be made in a fraction of the time. Innovations in dyes allowed for brighter coloured materials and embellishments such as lace, that would have taken days of hand-crafting,

different place. Britain was a superpower, trailblazing the way with industrialisation and bringing into effect economic and social revolutions with hitherto unseen levels of innovation and technology. The world’s first Industrial Revolution bought with it a boom in prosperity for those with property, opened the country to new markets and prompted chaotic expansion in many towns and cities.

style of painting with intense details, bold colours and complex compositions. Inspired by this movement, designer William Morris created colourful and intricate wallpaper and materials, which have became synonymous with the look of affluent homes of the time. Meanwhile, in the literature sphere, few captured the social dichotomy of Victorian London like Charles Dickens. His most

could now be made by machine. With the Chinese market also opening up during this time, silk became more affordable and captured the imagination of the discerning Victorian gentleman. Vests suddenly became available in a rainbow of hues and a plethora of different styles filled the wardrobes of the well-off. No colour was too bright or garish, giving the fashion-forward fellow a chance to

This turn of events influenced all aspects of everyday life, from design, architecture, literature and the arts to what people wore. Thanks to an abundance of new technology available, architects were now able to incorporate steel into their buildings, which could be built higher and in more complicated styles than ever before. Sir Joseph Paxton’s Crystal Palace was one such building made possible by steel and plate-glass advancements. With 92,000 square metres of internal space, this was the location for the Great Exhibition of 1851 where exhibitors from around the world came to show off their new technologies. The building became iconic for its transparent walls and ceilings, allowing natural light to flood in and illuminate the exhibition. The Houses of Parliament and St. Pancras railway station in London are both famous examples of the Gothic Revival style that became widespread during Queen Victoria’s reign and whose popularity spread across the world. Artists became inspired by London’s

renowned novels including David Copperfield, Oliver Twist and A Christmas Carol describe the depressingly poor living conditions and social injustice many experienced at the time. The divide between poor and rich gaped ever wider with little opportunity for those without the means to better their circumstances. The meta-changes Britain experienced over Queen Victoria’s 63 years on the throne were reflected in the ever-changing fashions of its residents, too. For the well-to-do gentleman, it was essential to look smart in public. Formal wear was everyday wear and to be seen without a vest, coat or hat was a shocking faux pas. Under-dressing was left to labourers, workmen and farmers who, despite their lower class, would often wear straw hats or small-brimmed bowler hats as they went about their work. At the beginning of the era in the 1840s, the fashion was for form-fitting frock coats cut to the calf worn with a double- or singlebreasted vest over a collared shirt. Morning coats or tails were used on more formal occasions. Must-have accessories included

dress up his conservative-coloured jackets and trousers. As the era went on, fashion evolved for shorter, more practical coats and rules were relaxed in terms of extreme everyday formalwear. The looser sack coat replaced the frock coat for less formal occasions and in 1890 the blazer was introduced for sports and other casual activities. The Victorian gentleman’s fondness for bold fashion statements continued and patterned shirts, as well as checked or striped trousers, became the trend, mixing and matching the designs as one saw fit. Improvements in mass communication – the steam printing press, Morse code and then the telephone – and mass production contributed to the increasing speed at which fashions changed. Whereas at the beginning of the era trends moved in decade cycles, towards the end, fashions began changing year on year. In the six short decades of the Victorian era, Great Britain and especially its cities, had altered beyond recognition. We undoubtedly have the breakthroughs and advancements

ever-changing skyline, creating iconic works that still hang in galleries today.

the top hat, a cravat or tie, a cane, gloves and a fob watch. The introduction of the sewing

of the time to thank for paving the way to the lives we lead today.

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H E R I TA G E

BARBERSHOP HARMONY

Barbershop Harmony IN THE BUSINESS OF PRESENT-DAY LIFE, A TRIP TO A CENTURIES-OLD BARBERSHOP THAT CONTINUES TO USE TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES IS A TRULY PERSONAL PLEASURE FOR MODERN GENTLEMEN

Many decades ago the local barbershop was a hub of society. It was the place where influential men would frequent in order to relax with a newspaper

highly effective grooming techniques; some of which are still offered to this day. On entering the venue, its historical charm speaks for itself. Faded photos of former

brandy and Marseilles flakes is massaged onto the face and neck using a pure -bristle brush. The hair is then shaved with an open razor. To finish, a unique cream made from

and meet with fellow gentlemen to discuss all manner of topics. From the street, a barbershop would be identifiable by the placement of a pole, which was usually red and white striped in reference to times gone by when barbers worked as both barbers and surgeons. Nowadays, however, most barbershops of this kind have been replaced with

customers cover the wooden walls, where there may be a familiar face or two if you look closely. Large mirrors line the length of the shop, in front of which comfortable seats and private washbasins await customers.

apricot almond oil is applied to sooth the skin. A final hot-towel compress leaves customers feeling refreshed. The barbershop also offers haircuts, beard and moustache trimming, manicures and treatments to target baldness and hair and scalp issues. During a haircut, which is always done with scissors, special attention is

contemporary hair salons and the candy cane poles drawing customers in have been replaced with colourful advertisements and bold signage. For many people, it is important to have a break from the modern technology-driven world and relish times past. Traditional barbershops give customers this opportunity. As well as preserving a certain ideology and lifestyle, these establishments use age-old methods and equipment such as razor knives instead of electronic shavers, protecting the heritage of such techniques. Few old-fashioned barbershops around the world have survived modernisation. Antica Barbieria Colla is one of them. Situated in the heart of Milan, the centuriesold Milanese barbershop retains all the traditional characteristics it possessed when it opened its doors in 1904. Founded by Dino Colla, a barber from Ferrara with a

On the opposite side, rails of hangers hold the jackets and shirts of the barbershop’s esteemed guests. Barbers wearing white lab coats carry out a range of grooming services, based on traditional tactics and ingredients. The hot towel shave and facial is a particularly famous age-old ritual that has been offered at the barbershop for many decades. The therapy begins with the application of a

paid to hair type. If hair is dry, a special oil is massaged in to soften it before washing, while greasy hair is applied with cobiel sulphur and a hint of denatured alcohol; another age-old method. Many products used, including shampoos, are Antic Barbieria Colla-branded and were created from the founder’s original recipes. A visit to a traditional barbershop such as Antic Barbieria Colla is a truly exclusive experience. From elite service to refined techniques offering an unbeatably close shave, the value of such a place is timeless. While it seems that every aspect of life in the modern world has moved on from the past in many respects, old-fashioned barbershops stand as a reminder of a period when a shave or a haircut was a true luxury. While rule-makers and businessmen now congregate in conference rooms, barbershops are still the meeting places of another kind of gentleman; the elite who find

savvy business strategy, the shop quickly became known by its five-star service and

steaming hot towel to soften hair. Next, a special cream made with bitter almond soap,

joy in exploring historical traditions while enjoying a truly personal experience.

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THROUGH THE AGES

TRUNK SHOW In 19th century Paris, Louis Vuitton was a humble trunk-maker with a big dream. Over time, the visionary revolutionised the luggage industry and his brand continues to cross the borders of creativity and style to this day

In 1800s’ Europe, although travel was becoming ever popular, it remained a luxury reserved for the elite. At the same time, the fashion industry was booming and possession of the latest styles was of the upmost importance, especially for Parisians. At the start of this period, the trend when travelling was to carry luggage in oversized wooden trunks. Horse-drawn carriages, steam trains and boats were the main modes of transport and due to a lack of lighter carry-on options, they would be weighed down with these heavyweight boxes. In ensuing years, however, new styles of baggage began to emerge which revolutionised the way people travelled and became trends in themselves, thanks to one man in particular – Louis Vuitton. By the end of the decade, his eponymous brand was the name on the lips for all those with precious items to carry from one place

level of success, he had to undertake an inordinate amount of travelling himself. Louis was born in 1821 in the French town of Anchay. Raised by miller and carpenter parents, he was an ambitious boy,

to another in style. However, to reach this

rapidly outgrowing small town life. As such, at the age of 16, Louis set off on foot to Paris to seek his fortune. It took the visionary two years to travel 450 kilometres to the French capital taking on odd jobs en route. However, once in the City of Light, he began an apprenticeship with box-maker Monsieur Maréchal. Louis spent 15 years assisting his master to make and pack travellers’ trunks. At the end of this period, however, his entrepreneurial side took over and he set off once more to set up a company on his own. Over time, the Louis Vuitton brand, as it was called, surpassed the accomplishments of Monsieur Maréchal, introducing innovative concepts and recognisable canvas designs that would achieve global recognition for the man and his brand. The company is now in its 16th decade in business and is one of the most successful fashion companies ever. As with all great stories, the brand’s history is key to its success.

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1854 L ay i n g d ow n ro ot s Louis Vuitton founds his self-titled company and opens its first premises in the centre of the fashion capital of Paris where he produces and sells luggage trunks.

1858 S tac k a b l e s t y l e The company reinvents the trend for heavy curved-top cases by producing flat trunks in grey Trianon canvas. These could be easily stacked, changing the way luggage would be viewed.

1859 Home sweet home Louis opens his first workshop in the Parisian suburb of Asnières. As the company grows over ensuing decades, the original atelier is expanded and the building also becomes the Vuitton family residence. Products are still crafted on the site to this day.

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THROUGH THE AGES

1872 D es i g n days Until this point, Louis Vuitton products were covered in grey Trianon canvas. The brand launches the first of its novel alternative designs by introducing a striped canvas.

1875

1885

Ca r ry o n

Fa m i ly a f fa i r

Louis once again reinvents luggage with the creation of the Wardrobe; a compact trunk resembling a home wardrobe that features subsections to fit all manner of objects, such as drawers for accessories and hanging space for clothing. It would go on to become one of the Maison’s most sought-after collectibles and a symbol for luxury travel.

The founder’s son, George Vuitton, joins the company. He makes the leap abroad by opening the brand’s first overseas store on London’s Oxford Street. His aim is to displace the trend for traditional English trunks with Louis Vuitton’s designs.

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1888

1890

F r es h ca n vas

Lo c k u p

The brand unveils a new square pattern titled Damier Canvas. The extremely recognisable design is one of the brand’s most successful and is reintroduced again and again over ensuing decades in a variety of textures and hues.

George invents a five-tumbler ‘unpickable’ lock to further protect luggage cases. The innovative mechanism is designed for individual customers, enabling them to open every item of their Louis Vuitton luggage with a single numbered key.

1896 By i m i tat i o n Louis Vuitton’s signature canvas becomes so popular that rivals worldwide imitate it. To maintain the identifiable distinction of its products, the company reinvents its canvas and unveils a new pattern; the now-famous LV monogram featuring flowers, circles and diamonds.

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THROUGH THE AGES

1930 B i r t h o f a l eg e n d Louis Vuitton takes a side step from the production of hard trunks and pioneers a trend for soft luggage. The brand unveils the Keepall, a soft lightweight canvas travel bag that quickly becomes a legendary icon.

1959 Let it rain The company develops a supple waterproof coating. This means that Louis Vuitton soft bags can be made in monogrammed canvas for the first time. The flexibility of the material also enables the company to create smaller items such as purses, handbags and wallets.

1978 As i a n e x pa n s i o n As international demand grows, the company sets sail to Japan, opening stores in Tokyo and Osaka. This is followed in 1979 with a boutique in Hong Kong and then the establishment of Louis Vuitton Japan in 1981.

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1987 M e rg i n g ta l e n t s Louis Vuitton and Moët Hennessy unite to form LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods group. The groundbreaking decision signals the company’s evolution from a Parisian brand to a global entity.

1997

2004

Artistic ambition

C e l e b r at i o n o f ag es

Marc Jacobs (pictured below with LVMH CEO Bernard Arnault) is appointed Artistic Director. He extends his expertise to help Louis Vuitton diversify and become an all-encompassing lifestyle brand by expanding into the fields of women’s and men’s readyto-wear, shoes, watches and jewellery.

Louis Vuitton celebrates its 150th anniversary with several new launches and collaborations. As well as unveiling the Emprise jewellery collection and the Damier Géant line, the brand releases its first sunglasses collection in collaboration with Pharrell Williams and Nigo. The company also opens two stores, in Shanghai and Johannesburg and the Louis Vuitton building on New York’s Fifth Avenue (below).

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THROUGH THE AGES

2014 G o i n g s t ro n g Louis Vuitton is still breaking boundaries 160 years since its inception. The company announces a new Creative Director, Nicolas Ghesquière (pictured right), who exhibits his first ready-to-wear collection for the brand. In addition, to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the LV monogram, six iconoclast designers, including Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Louboutin and Frank Gehry, were invited and given carte blanche to create a unique piece of luggage using the iconic monogram canvas.

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La Dolce Vita A guide to the world’s highest standards of living, covering all aspects of a lifestyle that can be maintained by a lucky few. Whether it’s a life-changing trip to one of world’s natural wonders or an unforgettable gastronomic indulgence, the exclusivity of the experience is guaranteed.

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CRUISE CONTROL RIVA SAILS INTO THE 21ST CENTURY WITH AN INNOVATIVE LAUNCH THAT TRADES ITS TRADITIONAL MATERIAL OF CHOICE – WOOD – FOR STEEL

Standing proud among seas of white alloy, a wooden boat by Riva is instantly recognisable. Admiring eyes are drawn to the yacht’s sleek silhouette

Ferretti Group, said: “Thanks to the support of our shareholders and to the efforts of the numerous teams involved in this project, we will be able to offer owners magnificent

Below deck, a number of VIP cabins can be found, while outside a number of al fresco decks – one complete with a Jacuzzi – and swimming platforms offer entertainment

that cuts through the waters of the world’s greatest marinas with ease, while the wooden design exhibits a discerning perception of classic luxury. The Aquarama is arguably the brand’s most famous model. After launching in 1962, the iconic boat became a symbol of excellence for Riva, setting a standard so high that its sight alone speaks more of its passengers than their words.

works of art in which to cruise the seas, characterised by Riva’s unmistakable style. From now on, everybody will immediately recognise a Riva creation not only when looking at an Iseo, an 86’ Domino or a 122’ Mythos, but also when admiring one of these new yachts-to-be.” The new Riva in steel was inspired by the innovative passion of Carlo Riva, the

during the night and day. There is also a floatin garage and crew quarters catering for nine crew members, so trips of all proportions can be catered for. From the outside, a Riva steel yacht has a more contemporary look than previous Riva models. The streamlined shape gives a sleeker outline, while the use of steel makes it dynamic to behold. The model retains a sense

The use of quality wood has remained at the heart of the Italian brand since the Riva Boatyard was first opened by Pietro Riva in the 1840s in Sarnico, Italy.

However, the company recently made a monumental decision to propel its craftsmanship beyond anything it has accomplished before. In a groundbreaking move, Riva announced its intention to use steel; a notoriously complex material to work with. Simultaneously, the brand will make its first foray into the production of large vessels. A striking new line of steel mega yachts will launch initially with a 50-metre model. This will be followed over the coming years

great grandson of founder Pietro Riva. He was a man famed for his commitment to exceptional style and elegance and who, realising the importance of individualism, is equally the man to thank for creating the brand’s legendary wooden boats. Trailing this way of thinking, the new yachts will be fully customisable. Buyers will collaborate with Officina Italian Design and Ferretti Group’s teams of engineers, architects and designers to handpick all details with regards to fittings and interior décor to suit personal tastes. Designed with the luxury yachting enthusiast in mind, the new vessel goes above and beyond expectations for a yacht of its size, offering the space and amenities of a cruise ship within a 50-metre vessel. With four decks and a wealth of spacious interchangeable areas, up to 12 people can be hosted comfortably. Several layouts are available for the main and upper decks, which can be arranged to suit the client, encompassing living areas, lounges and dining rooms. A sizeable master bedroom with several sections takes over the entire

of Riva’s traditional style, however, through classic clean design and the use of wood on decking and finishings. This challenging launch is set to make history for the company for the second time since the launch of Aquarama. While it may differ in style from previous vessels, the Riva team ensured the brand’s unique identity is retained through excellent craftsmanship, exquisite aesthetics and a relentless commitment to quality. Mauro Micheli, Designer and Co-founder, says: “Riva is probably the only yachting brand that has been capable of creating, throughout its history, true icons which can be recognised everywhere in the world and it has managed to do so because it has always been focused on innovation and perfection. Aquarama – to mention the most famous model – was innovative because of its creators’ constant search for flawless quality. Thus, the drive towards perfection is inextinguishable for us too as we take up the baton of Riva’s tradition.” Yacht enthusiasts in the UAE can explore the range futher at Riva’s brand new luxury

with a series of crafts ranging from 68- to 100-metres in length. Alberto Galassi, CEO,

bow area, where bulwarks can be collapsed and transformed into open-air terraces.

boutique at Emirates Palace in Abu Dhabi and tailor-make their slice of history.

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EDGE OF THE OCEAN

Edge of the ocean ON THE SOUTHERNMOST TIP OF CAP D’ANTIBES LIES A SECLUDED COASTAL HOTEL THAT INVITES GUESTS TO EXPERIENCE OUT-OF-THIS-WORLD FRENCH LUXURY

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The French Riviera is known for its beautiful coastal scenery, welcoming Mediterranean towns and tranquil ambience. As such, it is a veritable playground of the rich and famous. Every year affluent holidaymakers leave their city homes behind and descend on the coast for a relaxing escape, dropping anchor at various luxury resorts along the seafront. Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc is one of the finest resting places. Situated on the Cote d’Azur coastline between Cannes and Nice, the exclusive hotel is both luxurious and private. The resort’s location, on the very tip of the Cap d’Antibes, is matchless. Built in 1870 by Auguste de Villemessant, Villa Soleil, as it was then called, was a venue where writers lacking in inspiration could go to recover their passion. Nowadays, it is a hotel. Uninterrupted sea views, five-star service and top-quality accommodation and facilities have made it a haven for all manner of guests, from movie stars to businessmen and politicians. The journey to the hotel is an experience of its own. Guests arriving by car travel up a long palm tree-lined driveway, encountering an impressive view of the villa in all its grandeur. Arrival by boat can also be arranged for those sailing the French Riviera on yachts. Once there, the resort is divided in two: the main hotel and the famous Pavilion Eden-Roc set by the sea. On entering the hotel, an airy lobby swathed in cream marble greets visitors. Attention is immediately drawn to the grand staircase that winds around a glass elevator and Roman-style columns rising to touch the high ceiling. Looking beyond, glass doors open up to lush gardens. A range of elegant guest rooms and suites is available; each representing refined comfort of the highest kind. The Eden-Roc suite, located atop the Eden-Roc Pavilion, is the crème de la crème of luxury lodging. Unbeatable panoramic views over the ocean and the Lérins Islands meet guests from the 200-square-metre wooden terrace.

bedroom palatial villas for more discerning parties. Villa Les Cèdres is set in the hotel’s luscious gardens that are completed with an outdoor Jacuzzi, while at Villa Eleana, guests can enjoy a private swimming pool and the services of a personal butler. The communal swimming pool is one of the most famous elements of the Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc. The stunning infinity pool was carved out of the basalt rock coastline in 1914 and is filled with fresh seawater. Adjacent to the water lies a row of sea-facing wooden cabanas available to book. These make the perfect place to spend the day relaxing in privacy or enjoying a dinner served directly in the comfort of the cabana. If lounging by the pool becomes tiring, the pool area also offers direct access to the sea. Elsewhere in the grounds, guests can find a large perfectly manicured garden, complete with its own rose garden where the hotel grows its own flowers. When in need of some nourishment, the hotel offers a number of options. Restaurant Eden-Roc serves Mediterranean specialities such as wild seabass with basil and a mousseline of fennel and fillets of red mullet. Elsewhere, Grill Eden-Roc offers a menu of grilled meats and fish and hosts a sushi bar. There is also a number of bars and lounges. Eden-Roc Champagne Lounge is arguably the most famous. Its huge panoramic terrace overlooking the ocean has been the setting of many high-profile events and its bar is stocked with distinctive vintages. Within each venue most of the waiters speak three languages, so visitors will be assigned a waiter that can communicate in their preferred language. This is an example of the hotel’s excellent quality of service, whereby teams of staff make guests feel looked-after without being overlooked. While Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc is lavish in many ways, its many distinguished guests require absolute discretion. It is a place of refinement, where everything is perfect, notwithstanding the view.

With this outstanding view, the spacious suite is the perfect space to entertain or to enjoy a special occasion. The hotel also has two three-

Guests are continuously made to feel special as every aspect of their stay has been crafted to generate comfort and happiness.

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DESERT

ESCAPE BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA, SET IN THE HEART OF THE ARABIAN DESERT, OFFERS AN INSIGHT INTO BEDOUIN LIVING IN THE MOST LUXURIOUS MANNER

The Arabian Desert is a majestic sight to behold. Dunes rise and fall, performing an everlasting dance, moving slowly across miles upon miles of land as far as the eye can see. Nestled between mountains of sand lie the settlements of the few remaining Bedouins who continue to retain the traditional way of life of the UAE. The desert expanse is also home to a number of notable institutions such as camel farms where farmers raise these mammals for a number of purposes and exercise them on the dunes; a striking sight especially as the sun sets. Deep in the desert, less than an hour’s drive outside Dubai, lies an oasis of luxury: Bab al Shams Desert Resort & Spa. Greeting travellers almost like a mirage, the resort offers a unique and authentic Arabian escape that transports guests into the times of the Bedouins, but in five-star comfort. Instead of sleeping in canvas tents, visitors reside in opulent Arabesque bungalows with all the conveniences that one would expect from a top-tier resort. Instead of walking for miles, guests are transported via Jeep deeper into the desert where a host of interactive activities greets them. Some factors are identical to the old days, however, such as the lamb served at Arabic restaurant Al Hadheerah that has been cooked underground for several hours to give it a supple texture where it literally falls off the bone. Far from the towering skyscrapers and glamour of the city of Dubai, everything about Bab al Shams Desert Resort & Spa is designed to reflect a traditional Arabic way of life. Architecture is key. The resort is made up

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DESERT ESCAPE

of a collection of sand-coloured low-rise bungalows that fit into the surrounding desert landscape in harmony. Walking through the complex, a strong Middle Eastern influence is evident from all angles. Round archways lead visitors from room to room and building to building, while palm trees line the paths and Arabic lamps light the way. Once inside, bold red carpets, sandy walls and dark wooden fixtures combine to create a homely ambience that’s accentuated by traditional adornments covering every surface. Candles, lamps and oversized coffee pots and jars add Arabesque touches at every turn while wall tapestries tell tales of times past. The architectural theme is continued throughout the guest suites. Wooden furnishings add an air of traditional opulence while red and gold materials stand out against the pale gold-coloured walls. Arabesque lamps hang from the ceiling and a woven carpet rests on the floor. Alcove seating covered in cushions adds a special touch while a private terrace opens up to uninterrupted views over the desert. Out of the many communal areas, a focal point for guests is the hotel lounge. Designed to reflect the living room of a local home, a multitude of comfortable seating areas awaits guests. Looking around the room, which is bathed in natural light streaming through the bamboo ceiling, life-sized brass camels stand to attention while ancient guns hang from the walls. Clearly, there is much history to be learned from exploring this resort. Another venue of note is Ya Hala Bar, a creative establishment

of a stable and, on the walls, clever placement of stirrups and saddles provides creative ornamentation. The theme of this lounge is particularly apt due to the resort’s close proximity to the Emirates Equestrian Centre. It is here that many members of the UAE royal family train their horses and a multitude of events are hosted at the centre throughout the year, including National Show Jumping and ECC Cross Country; both of which are worth witnessing for horse enthusiasts. When it comes to dining at Bab al Shams Desert Resort & Spa, guests have myriad choices, whether it’s flavoursome Indian cuisine at Masala or fine Italian fare at Le Dune Pizzeria. For those seeking an authentic experience, however, Al Hadheerah hosts an excellent Arabic dinner every evening that is truly a feast for all the senses. A huge Arabic buffet awaits visitors who wish to sample local delicacies, while chefs also run live cooking stations preparing guests’ choices of fresh seafood, meat carving and more. As guests lounge on Arabic majlis, they’re treated to entertainment that includes belly dancing, Tanoura dancing and music from a live band. A highlight of the evening is an animated show that recounts the story of the history of the UAE where camels, horses and sheep are the protagonists. The venue also boasts a heritage museum offering a chance to engage in cultural activities such as henna painting, the purchase of unique souvenirs and interaction with majestic falcons. When the Bedouins ruled the lands, falconry was an integral part of life. The sport of using these noble birds to hunt meat for consumption

that possesses a strong equestrian theme in reference to one of the UAE’s greatest sports: horseracing. Dark wooden décor is reminiscent

may have died out over the years, but to this day falcons remain arguably the UAE’s most prized species. Visitors can enjoy a rare

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glimpse of times past by watching a falconry show. Witnessing the birds fly majestically through the air as the trainer demonstrates how they catch their prey is a truly exceptional experience. Visitors may even be able to get closer to the bird and gently touch its feathers. One of the most popular experiences the hotel offers is a desert drive in a Jeep. This is an opportunity to explore the dunes and visit some picture-perfect viewing locations. Elsewhere, guests can try their hand at archery, an age-old sport with close ties to the region. Drawing the day to a perfect close is a sunset camel ride through the dunes. The ride, which is available to all hotel guests on a complimentary basis, is a rare opportunity to interact with the Arabian mammals and explore the desert landscape at the same time.

grass lawn where soft sports, such as croquet, take place. The resort also boasts the luxurious Satori Spa offering signature massages and rituals, popular body treatments from across the globe and alternative therapies. The 150-minute ‘Satori for Men’ ritual is the ultimate pampering experience, comprising an extensive range of treatments that leaves body and mind feeling equally balanced. A retreat to Bab al Shams Desert Resort & Spa is a captivating experience for locals and tourists alike. The luxury hideaway feels like a home from home from the moment the lobby doors open, while the tranquility of the desert allows the stresses of city life to melt away quicker than sand through an hourglass. Guests will find themselves willing the clocks back to Bedouin times, before the development of

If the excitement gets too much there are plenty of opportunities to relax at the large outdoor pool overlooking the desert landscape or a

technology, when a haven in the dunes was home and a front-row seat to the sunset was a daily spectacle.

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FUTURE OF ELEGANCE

FUTURE OF ELEGANCE Rolls-Royce is one of the most iconic brands in the world. For the launch of Ghost Series II, Signé was invited on a sunset drive from Dubai to Ras Al Khaimah, during which we discovered the striking and innovative car is faultless

Say ‘Rolls-Royce’ to any number of people and a vision of luxury and affluence will immediately spring to mind.

Inside the car, even greater strides have been taken with the design. Specially re-designed seats have been sculpted for

One of the most revolutionary new additions is the Control Centre Display, which uses an infrared camera to highlight

Instantly recognisable by name or by sight as one of the world’s most powerful and costly cars, a Rolls-Royce is more than a vehicle; it’s a lifestyle and one that only a lucky few possess. In 2009 the company launched the Rolls-Royce Ghost: a model far more contemporary and dynamic than the brand’s habitually formal vehicles. The development propelled the company to new heights, changing the way that customers perceive the brand and attracting a new generation of businesspeople and entrepreneurs. The newest edition to this range, RollsRoyce Ghost Series II, is a car of supernatural proportions. The design has evolved beyond the Rolls-Royce Ghost Series I in a number of ways. Observing the exterior, the model has been updated with modern LED headlights, subtle chrome finishes, new 21-inch wheels and discreet sculpting on the bumper. Key references to the traditional Rolls-Royce identity remain evident, however, such as the signature 2:1 proportion size of the wheel and placements of the brand’s monogram. As such, the design protects the iconic

greater comfort and are covered with the finest full-grain leather, which has been shrunk, drum-dryed and then hand-stitched. Wooden surfaces are made from palado, malaba and walnut trees, burrs of which, interestingly, come from one tree per car, to maintain consistency. In addition, the Bespoke Audio System has been updated to create a perfect acoustic experience through the clever placement of 18 speakers. Under the bonnet, a twin-turbo 6.6-litre V12 engine powers the car. A number of hightech features have also been added to ensure the drive is as smooth and hassle-free as possible. Innovative in-car features boast an excellent satellite-aided technology system that is so advanced it can adjust the gears before reaching a corner or apply the brakes automatically if there’s an obstruction. The GPS can be viewed from the novel Head Up Display that projects directions, road signs and speed directly onto the windscreen in front of the driver. Entertainment such as music and internet access is controlled by the new Spirit of Ecstasy Rotary Controller.

road obstructions, such as animals and pedestrians, from up to 300 metres away. This image is then displayed on a screen on the dashboard. It even works in poor driving conditions as the sensor focuses on body heart. With all the technology combined, the chance of an accident is greatly reduced. Just as with every Rolls-Royce car, the Ghost Series II is built to order at Goodwood, the home of Rolls-Royce in the South of England. Customers can customise a variety of interior elements, such as their choice of wood veneers or a motif on headrests or the dashboard. For an exceptionally bespoke look, a selection of colours can be added to the roof and bonnet of the car and details, such as names, can be discreetly painted onto the body. The Ghost Series II, described by Torsten Müller-Ötvös, Chief Executive Officer, RollsRoyce Motor Cars, as “an oasis of calm in a frenetic business world”, brings together industry-leading technology and modern luxury. While subtle updates enhance visual elements of the new vehicle, it is the high-

character of a Rolls-Royce car while at the same time driving it into the 21st century.

Drivers can also use the controller to operate their phone using voice command alone.

tech additions that make the Ghost Series II stand proud as the luxury car of the future.

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SIGNĂ&#x2030; â&#x2014;&#x160; EDITION 08

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OF MUSICAL NOTE OPERA HOUSE While Dubai may be famed for its iconic buildings and record-breaking architectural feats, there’s an underlying music and arts scene that’s steadily building. The success of annual festivals such as the Dubai International Film Festival and Art Dubai is testament to an increased interest in film and art, while, a number of events have launched to promote the work of contemporary and classical musicians across the UAE. Theatre is becoming popular, too, but the lack of a larger venue has limited this growth, until now. Dubai Opera, set to open in Spring 2015, is a state-of-the-art concept that will be the host of operas, concerts, theatre shows, art exhibitions and screenings. The development is the first of its kind in the emirates. With advanced audio-visual technology and a capacity of 20,000 when seated, the venue is set to change the face of the city’s art scene. The structure itself is designed in the shape of a dhow boat’s sail, paying homage to Dubai’s heritage and the trade that passed down the Dubai Creek by boat in the early days. The ultimate aim is to provide a platform for local and international artists across a range of genres and, in turn, bolster the city’s reputation as a hub of the arts. The opera house is the centrepiece of a wider project, The Opera District. Situated in the shadow of iconic Burj Khalifa, the district will also house luxury hotels, a waterfront promenade, a retail plaza and parks, transforming it into an all-encompassing artistic neighbourhood.

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A GRAND OPENING R E S TAU R A N T The latest addition to Dubai’s burgeoning restaurant scene has already caused a stir worldwide. Clé Dubai, the brainchild of Michelin-starred restaurant chef Greg Malouf who is famed for his contemporary Middle Eastern creations, takes Lebanese cuisine to new heights. Malouf, inspired by his heritage, brings Arabian cuisine into the 21st century by merging traditional ingredients with influences from his worldly travels, for example, spicing up risotto with saffron and creating a twist on biryani by adding quail. Dishes of note include: Malouf’s Bistayeea (the chef’s version of Moroccan delicacy sweet-spiced duck pie); Irish lamb loin which is served on the bone with baharat spices; and poussin that’s cooked Arabian-style over fragrant rice. For vegetarians, Kousa Mahshi, white courgettes stuffed with chickpeas, is an interesting option, while the long menu of appetisers is worth a thorough perusal. The restaurant seats 300 (or 1,000 standing) and contains a main restaurant area, a bar, a lounge, a VIP area and an al fresco terrace which boasts astonishing views over Burj Khalifa. The venue, situated at Al Fattan Currency House in DIFC, launched in style, hosting VIP guests and stars from Hollywood, Bollywood and Arabia over its first weekend. If the opening is anything to go by, it seems Clé Dubai is set to be the emirate’s newest hot spot.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 08

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LOCAL PROMISE BOUTIQUE Luxury Swiss brand Piaget has reinforced its commitment to the UAE by opening a third boutique in the emirates. Reflecting the identity of the brand and inspired by the Viennese Secession period, the new venue at Mall of the Emirates is elegant yet discreet. Black and gold décor creates an air of opulence while dramatic lighting allows the products on display to shine beautifully. The store carries watches and jewellery from the brand’s latest and classic collections, as well as rings and gifts from its bridal ranges. Piaget Brand Director, Jean-Marc Shammas, said: “The inauguration of Piaget’s new boutique is an extremely proud moment for us but what gives us even more pleasure is that this boutique is one of the few with a dedicated bridal section. I am confident now that with this new boutique, we will revive the once-popular saying that ‘an Arab wedding is incomplete without a Piaget creation being gifted’.”

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A B U D H A B I , T H E G A L L E R I A , S OW WA H S Q U A R E - D U B A I , M A L L O F T H E E M I R AT E S - D U B A I , D U B A I M A L L , L E V E L S H O E D I S T R I C T