Signe - Edition 9 by Signé

S I G N É

THE PERFECT FIT

A BEHIND-THE-SCENES LOOK AT THE ART OF SHOEMAKING AND THE INDUSTRY’S SECRET WEAPON, THE SHOE LAST

TO THE MOON AND BACK

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ART OF MOVEMENTS Roger Dubuis’ unconventional complications are changing the face of the watchmaking industry as we know it

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CONTENTS

SCHOLARS

042

040 LEADING LIGHT An in-depth look at the life of one of history’s most prominent actors, Fred Astaire

042 THE SIGNÉ MAN Giulio Zauner, Managing Director of Ferrari Middle East, takes Signé on a fascinating journey through his life and wardrobe

046 JOURNEY THROUGH TIME Pascal Raffy, owner of Bovet, speaks about his upbringing, his lifelong passion for watchmaking and his company

048 ESTATE OF MIND An exclusive interview with Ibrahim Al Ghurair, Founder of contemporary Dubai-based real estate firm Muraba

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 09

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S AV O I R FA I R E

060

052 WATCH THIS FACE A behind-the-scenes view of the making of Chanel’s latest complication, the revolutionary J12 Rétrograde Mystérieuse

056 THE GENTLEMEN’S STREET Signé travels to the heart of fashion capital Milan to explore the city’s brand new street dedicated to men’s style

060 THE PERFECT FIT A closer look at shoemaking and the tool that plays an integral part in the production of footwear – the shoe last

064 BACK TO THE FUTURE Unveiling the Pierre Arpels Heure d’Ici & Heure d’Ailleurs – a timepiece that breathes fresh life into one of watchmaking’s greatest icons

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 09

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CONTENTS

S IGN É S E L EC TION

068

068 SPREZZATURA Stay in style through the New Year with fresh looks from spring/summer 2015

076 FOR HER In this monthly section dedicated to a man’s other half, Signé takes a closer look at a jeweller to the royals, Garrard

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 09

FIRST MOVERS WILL ALWAYS CHANGE THE WORLD. BUT WHICH ONE? >> Discover our approach at juliusbaer.com/visionary-thinking

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CONTENTS

PHIL ANTHROPY

080 A NATURAL PARTNERSHIP Inside IWC Schaffhausen’s fruitful fundraising partnership with the Charles Darwin Foundation to preserve the Galápagos Islands for future generations to enjoy explore

084 FROM THE FAIRWAY The UAE’s only professional golfer, Ahmed Al Musharrekh, talks to Signé about his foundation that encourages local children across the UAE to follow in his footsteps and take up golf

080

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CONTENTS

OBSESSION

18 0 28

088 ART OF MOVEMENTS Roger Dubuis’ movements are creating waves in the world of horology. Signé explores several of the brand’s most exciting launches to date

096 RACE AGAINST TIME Inside the Gran Premio Nuvolari, an annual race sponsored by luxury watch brand Eberhard & Co.

098 ROYAL AROMA Sheikh Majed Al-Sabah unveils the inner workings and inspirations of his perfume house, The Fragrance Kitchen

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 09

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CONTENTS

H E R I TA G E

102

102 TO THE MOON AND BACK The Omega Speedmaster boasts a fascinating history that goes beyond the borders of Earth. Signé presents a timeline of its story

110 BACK IN TIME An in-depth feature on one of history’s most revered watchmakers, Louis Moinet

114 HERITAGE OF INNOVATION An insight into tailoring in the city of London and the Savile Row masters who have redefined the world of men’s fashion

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 09

CONTENTS

L A D O L C E V I TA

120 ALL IN THE BALANCE Nerio Alessandri, Founder and President of Technogym, offers expert tips on how to maintain a healthy lifestyle despite the many distractions that modern-day life presents

122 HAUTE SOCIÉTÉ The latest and most exciting openings from across the UAE, including the brand new Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach Hotel, the launch of The Rib Room and Paul Smith’s new-look boutique in Mall of the Emirates

122

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Scholars Behind all of the best brands and companies across the globe stand men and women with pioneering personalities and unique success stories. In this section, we take an in-depth look into the lives of the bold few who have shaped the world of luxury as we know it.

SCHOLARS

LEADING LIGHT

Leading light FRED ASTAIRE WAS A BEACON OF JOY FOR HUMANITY IN THE DARKNESS OF THE GREAT DEPRESSION AND HIS FILMS CONTINUE TO INCENTIVISE ASPIRING PERFORMERS TO THIS DAY

During the Great Depression of the 1930s, when unemployment was high and economic stability was low, movies offered people across the globe an escape, a moment of joy where the only things that mattered were the characters on the silver screen. Fred Astaire was one of the key faces of the times and captivated the world through his unique storytelling abilities. A glimpse of light in the darkness, Astaire’s movies took millions of viewers on a journey to a glamorous world where life was, literally, a musical. The highlight of such films was the actor’s unique dance ability, which transcended the technical definition of dancing at the time. Embracing dance like poetry, Astaire carried the narrative of the story he was telling through his limbs and with the way he moved. While he was skilled in many genres of dance, ballroom being one of his most revered, he refused to be defined by any particular niche. This same mentality applied to props. The dancer could grab anything and move with it in such a way that a beautiful dance was created, be it with a person, a broom or even a coat rack. Astaire’s fluid movements created a special illusion as though he were dancing harmoniously through space. This ideology resonates through the way the actor approached choreography. Astaire famously once said: “I have no desire to prove anything by dancing. I have never used it as an outlet or a means of expressing myself. I just dance. I just put my feet in the air and move them around.” While on-

statement gives an insight into the dancer’s psyche and the unique way he viewed his impervious passion. Astaire was born Frederick Austerlitz in 1899 in Nebraska, US. Performing was ingrained in him from a young age and he started out in a performing duo with his sister Adele. The pair made it to Broadway in 1917 and continued putting on shows together until Adele got married in the early 1930s. After being granted his independence, Astaire set his sights on the silver screen. While Astaire excelled on the stage, it wasn’t easy making it into Hollywood. After receiving small parts in a number of motion pictures, his big break came in 1933 when he won the role of Fred Ayres in hit movie Flying Down to Rio. He had such great onscreen chemistry with his co-star, Ginger Rogers, that the pair went on to star in 10 movies together, each of which they sang and danced their way through. Cameras would follow Astaire and Rogers around, shooting dance routines in one take rather than multiple cutaways, which was the norm at that time. The duo’s performances are often credited as revolutionising the musical movie concept. The perfect co-stars, fellow actor Audrey Hepburn once said: “Fred Astaire gave Ginger Rogers class and Ginger Rogers gave Fred Astaire sex appeal”. The glamorous Rogers wasn’t Astaire’s only leading lady. The actor went on to work with some of the times’ greatest names, including Judy Garland, Audrey Hepburn, Cyd Charisse, Rita Hayworth and Jane Powell. Astaire had amazing influence on his

starred in 1942 hit Holiday Inn alongside the enigmatic Bing Crosby: a man as well-known for his singing as Astaire was for his dancing. As he grew older, Astaire concentrated more on straight acting and TV work, while dance went on the back-burner. In 1974, Astaire received an Academy Award nomination for his work in action-drama disaster movie The Towering Inferno, in which he played the part of conman Harlee Claiborne. While he remained successful long after his dancing shoes were laid to rest, Astaire will always be remembered for his allsinging-and-dancing roles on his most loved movies, such as Top Hat, Easter Parade and Shall We Dance. Fellow actor Gene Kelly once said of Astaire: “The history of dance on film begins with Astaire.” Many others imitate this sentiment, so it was no surprise when Astaire was awarded a prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award from the American Film Institute in 1981. Astaire lived until the grand age of 88, but his talent will forever be encapsulated through his films. To this day, his dance scenes continue to be an inspiration for many. In the US, Canada, South Africa, England and Lebanon, amateur dancers can study at the aptly named Fred Astaire Dance Studios and learn ballroom techniques, not dissimilar to those seen on the silver screen. The chain of schools, which was co-founded by Astaire in 1947 with a studio in New York, offers dance styles covering rhythm and smooth genres, from salsa, cha-cha and jive to waltz, tango and foxtrot. Teachers help students to emulate Astaire’s

screen dance scenes had to be mostly planned for the sake of the cameramen, this

partners, leading them to perform their best, especially when it came to dance. He also

mentality, whereby dance is limitless as long as it comes from the heart.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 09

SIGNÉ

MAN

Drive for excellencE Italian luxury sports car manufacturer Ferrari is one of the most prestigious names in the world. At the helm of the company’s Middle East sector is Giulio Zauner, a man who is, in many respects, the summary of what Ferrari stands for. Here, he gives Signé an insight into his life, his wardrobe and the unique upbringing that formed the very foundation of his effervescent personality

Giulio Zauner was born into an aristocratic family, a position that he describes as a privilege and a difficulty at the same time. As a young boy, he was sent to boarding school in Switzerland and taught by German Catholic nuns. In the years that followed, he attended military school and marine school, before studying at Politecnico di Milano where he undertook a degree in engineering. Zauner’s younger years were characterised by regiment and strict regulation. This experience not only impacted his personality, it formed who he was. “Discipline creates personality,” he explains. “If everybody has to follow the same rules, dress the same and act the same, an instinct is created to express yourself differently. Such situations force out your real personality hidden within and make sure you stand out through strong character.” Perhaps it was this thinking that led him to work with Ferrari. Since joining the esteemed company in 1999, Zauner has been stationed around the world – from Italy, to San Francisco, to Paris, to London and now Dubai. He currently holds the position of Managing Director of Ferrari Middle East. As you would expect from a man leading a sophisticated brand such as Ferrari, Zauner has an excellent sense of style. Valuing emotional power of items over trends, he enjoys having the freedom to interpret and adapt fashion in his own way and timescale. He even confesses to buying something and not wearing it until six years later when he felt he was finally ready to do so. In the businessman’s quest for style perfection, he seeks out curious and innovative people who are similar to him; he’s even used the same bespoke tailor that he’s worked with for years, based in Turin, Italy. In conversation with Signé, Zauner opens up about his wardrobe, his work with Ferrari and life as a man of the world.

SIGNÉ

MAN

Inherent style My grandfather gave the rules of elegance in my family firstly to my dad, who then passed them on to me. In my family, elegance is

Shopping destinations I don’t have a favourite shop as, for me, shopping depends on emotions and how I feel in that moment. However, there are a few places that I’ve

something you don’t buy, you don’t sell and you don’t impose. Instead, it all comes down to a single word: personalisation. If you think that buying a specific object or a branded product makes you elegant, then you haven’t understood anything about style. Think about Karl Lagerfeld and the way he presents himself. If I was to dress like he does, I would look like a clown. However, Lagerfeld does not. He is able to interpret the way he feels and present himself in a unique way without appearing ridiculous. The definition of personal style

been visiting since I was a child in Milan, such as Al Bazar in Via Scarpa and luxury vintage shop Bernardini. I also enjoy browsing the fashion dome in The Dubai Mall as it’s unique.

is not something you can find in the dictionary, it comes with an understanding of yourself.

happy. You can come to Dubai to experience the circuit but then, like the purchase of your favourite painting, you want to keep it for yourself. With Ferrari, you don’t buy a car, you don’t buy something to move with, you just achieve a moment of emotion.

Through the ages Style depends a lot on age. What was beautiful in the eighth century may not be appealing in 2015. Likewise, when you are in your 20s, a pair of sneakers seems like the must-have accessory, but in your 40s you usually think a pair of moccasins fits you better. There is a natural progression over the years. Treasured possessions It’s difficult for me to select my most treasured belongings because, for me, everything is connected to feelings and emotions. To buy things is easy – anyone can do it – but what everybody wants is not to possess something, but to instead feel connected to a moment, an object or a product. For example, somebody could buy my five-year-old daughter Caterina Isabella the most expensive toy in the world, but her favourite toy will remain a small wooden car I once bought her.

The magic of Ferrari To have a Ferrari is a dream. Considering all the types of people that come to Ferrari from all over the world, the common point is the idea of living a work of art. When I see clients driving, I can feel they’re truly

Driving success What I found in Ferrari that completely complements my personality is the constant research for excellence. We could call this the urge of always wanting to be the first. Ferrari constantly seeks out winning strategies and this also reflects my way of being. When I attended military school, I wasn’t taught how to be the first. I was taught to have the will, the strength and the desire to always be the first. When I first joined Ferrari, it hit me that the company’s ethos mirrored my personality exactly. Even during my constant relocation from Italy to the US, from Paris to London and back to Italy again, I could always feel this sense of urgency inside the company. Looking back to the company’s launch in 1929, I think it’s incredible how Enzo Ferrari from Maranello, a tiny village in Italy, was able to create such a fascinating concept that nobody was then able to replicate.

Bespoke commissions A bespoke suit is something you can create for yourself. It’s trickier and harder than buying a pret-a-porter suit because when it comes to ready-to-wear the clothes are already designed. Bespoke enables you to better express your personality through every choice from the fabrics to the cut and the buttons. I love using colours. Perhaps this stems from my passion for painting and collecting art. I also enjoy experimenting with textiles so sometimes I ask my tailor to show me the fabrics that he hasn’t sold to anyone and I end up choosing patterns that might have been sitting on a shelf for 10 years that nobody has had the courage to select. I work with a tailor based in Turin, Italy, named Francesco Quaranta. You could say that he chose me as a client. Quaranta is a person who understands how to perform this job properly. He reaches wherever you are at any time of day. Only a real professional like him would come at your house at 10pm on a Sunday night to take your measurements!

Life in Dubai Dubai is a dynamic city with a high quality of life. Its biggest strength is its multiculturalism. The mix of people that live here – who harbour different religions, budget and opinions – forms an open-minded culture. What’s more, everybody in the UAE, from a driver to a rich entrepreneur, seems to have a positive attitude. Being here you are forced to think differently and see the challenges of life with a different point of view. When it comes to my favourite places in the city, I like BiCE restaurant at Hilton Dubai Jumeirah Resort because the chain is also located in Milan so it feels like home to me. Another venue I enjoy is Bussola at The Westin Dubai Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina for its quality Italian food and great service. Then again, Dubai is continuously evolving and new concepts, innovative restaurants and fascinating buildings are constantly opening. What I love about As well as being an avid art collector, Zauner is a talented artist. Above is one of his artworks

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 09

Dubai is that there is always something new and exciting to see and do.

“The definition of personal style is not something you can find in the dictionary, it comes with an understanding of yourself” G I U L I O Z AU N E R

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 09

SCHOLARS

JOURNEY THROUGH TIME

JOURNEY THROUGH TIME PASCAL RAFFY UNVEILS HIS FASCINATING VOYAGE FROM LAW STUDENT TO OWNER OF LUXURY WATCHMAKER BOVET FLEURIER AND THE VALUES THAT DEFINED HIM ALONG THE WAY BY RACHEL INGRAM

Pascal Raffy has enjoyed a highly unusual career path. He began his working life as a law student in Paris, after

for me is related to globalisation. A timepiece is the expression of art, tradition, values and patrimony. Our house dates back nearly two

a pocket watch, at the age of 24. When it comes to his collection, he doesn’t limit himself to brands or specific movements.

growing up between France and Switzerland. Upon graduating, he joined his family’s business, working in pharmaceuticals for 15 years. Now, he is the owner of a luxury Swiss watch brand. While the differences between the industries are many, Raffy explains that there is an economical dimension between them. “To be a lawyer, it’s better for you to have a good background, to know your

centuries, to 1822, so the house has a clear identity revolving around few quantities and handmade craftsmanship.” Timepieces are distinguishable for a number of reasons. Each features a convertible system that enables it to be transformed easily from a wristwatch to a table clock to a pocket watch to a necklace pendant. Meanwhile, the dials are works

“It depends if the timepiece is talking to me; if there is magic,” Raffy explains. “It can be a simple split-seconds mechanism. For me density is more important than showing off. I like a lesson of life where being is more important than appearing.” He carries this mentality to his work. “I apply to the House of Bovet the things I like,” he adds. “I like good service, I like elegancy

books. To be in pharmaceuticals, it’s the same. In watchmaking, you can express art the way you want but you also need to have a good engine turning. It’s a lot about discipline and technical skills. Across all industries, you have to develop your own skills and have passion and a clear vision of what you want.” Raffy’s decision to leave the business world and work for himself was inspired by his family. He reflects: “My oldest daughter was asked by my father if she was happy and she said ‘yes, Grandad, I’m very happy but I don’t see my father’.” Within 18 months he had removed himself from the business and made family his priority. In the interim, Raffy was approached by multiple watchmaking houses looking for investors. It was Bovet Fleurier that really struck a cord and, in 2001, he acquired the company. “I fell in love with the House of Bovet because it’s different; it’s unique,” he says. Coveted by watch collectors across the globe, Bovet Fleurier is one of watchmaking’s most iconic companies. Raffy works hard to preseve the prestige that the brand’s founders

of art and they reference history through miniature paintings and engravings. Every element of a Bovet Fleurier watch is handmade in-house, from the movement to the dial. The only piece that’s not made by the brand is the strap, “because there aren’t any alligators in Switzerland”, jokes Raffy. Despite its popularity, the House of Bovet only produces 3,000 pieces each year. Raffy explains that this is in order to ensure that the soul and exclusivity of the brand is protected. Under his governance the house’s staff of artisans has grown from four to 139. He doesn’t impose timelines on his watchmakers, instead insisting on upmost perfection when pieces are delivered. Raffy is an avid collector of many things, including antiques, cars, furniture, carpets, paintings, shoes, suits and houses, but collecting watches has been his greatest passion since he was a young boy. He says: “My grandfather was a very big collector of timepieces. When I was between the age of 16 and 21, he would talk to me every Sunday about timepieces, the spare parts and so on.”

and I like education. I have to know that what I’m buying isn’t a trick: a few weeks later I want to see that it’s lasting, so if I propose my timepieces to collectors, I have to apply the same standards of my life. Human dimension is more important than turnover.” Raffy worked with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons to bring the brand to the UAE after being introduced by a mutual friend to the Seddiqi family eight years ago. “Whom is transmitting the message of what I do is important because I don’t want my message to be diluted so that a piece of art becomes a product,” he says. “I was in search of a family in the Middle East because my watchmaking house is a family house. When Mr Abdulmagied Seddiqi came to me in Geneva, it was one of the most significant gifts I have received since I took over the House of Bovet 13 years ago.” As for the key values of the brand, these reflect both the company’s heritage and the man leading it into the 21st century. “A timepiece must be useful, very reliable with a lot of art density inside,” he explains. “You

set and ensure that its timepieces are far more than time-telling devices. He says: “A watch

These weekly talks slowly developed into a passion. Raffy purchased his first timepiece,

must be able to discover something new every day. It has to bring pleasure.”

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 09

SCHOLARS

E S TAT E O F M I N D

ESTATE OF MIND IBRAHIM AL GHURAIR, FOUNDER OF MURABA, OFFERS SIGNÉ AN INSIGHT INTO THE NEW WORLD OF UAE REAL ESTATE AND HIS PASSION FOR THE INDUSTRY

Real estate is an exciting industry to work in, especially in a flourishing metropolis such as Dubai. Ibrahim Al Ghurair is one of the most inspirational names in the business at the moment, drawing on his interests and experience to offer distinctive spaces that reflect three key values: location, architecture and enjoyment. After growing up in Dubai and completing a degree in Business Administration at Boston University, Al Ghurair joined his family business back in the UAE, starting out as a commodity trader before moving into business development and later real estate. In 2014, drawing on a passion for architecture, he launched Muraba, a UAEbased property developer that specialises in creating contemporary properties in unbeatable locations. The company’s current project, Muraba Residence, Palm Jumeirah, entails the development of 50 luxury apartments on one of the world’s most famous manmade developments — Palm Jumeirah. Al Ghurair speaks to Signé about his passions, inspirations and latest ventures.

as Tokyo. Once the structure is built, it’s there for a very long time. It’s not like a watch or a car. It’s permanent. Why is the UAE the perfect destination for you to launch such a company? I think we’re lucky to be here because it’s the window to a wider region. Within a four-hour flight radius you can cover almost one-third of the world’s population, including different continents and cultures. It’s fascinating to be exposed to that number of people, cultures and backgrounds. Also, many people come here on visits, so being able to develop something here and take it to those clients is very interesting.

What inspired you to launch Muraba? I have always had an interest in architecture. Throughout my university years, I enjoyed reading and attending lectures about it. What interested me was how architecture impacts your physical environment. It impacts the way we live, how we interact and the way we do things. I enjoy looking at the architecture

Please talk us through the name of the company and what it means. Muraba is a type of ancient building, a fort, that’s particular to the Arabian Peninsula. The fort comprises four towers and four walls, which make the shape of a square. To talk about that square in Arabic, we say ‘muraba’.

Why have you chosen to work with RCR Arquitectes on this project? We looked at different architects and their works but when we saw the work of RCR Arquitectes we had a really enjoyable experience going through their spaces. There is something very different and interesting about the spaces they create and that’s what really attracted us to them. What’s also interesting about RCR Arquitectes is that they’re not driven by creating a specific type of space that boosts them as a certain type of architect; they treat every single space with a completely fresh approach. Choosing them was a match between the ethos of Muraba and

of Rome as well as contemporary cities such

So it almost means ‘the square’.

the way they approach design.

What are your values as a businessman and in life in general? In business, one of the key values is commitment: to be able to commit to what you promise, and deliver as well. I think in business it’s all about relationships and your partnerships and the commitment you have towards them.

Tell us about the Muraba Residence, Palm Jumeirah project, which is scheduled for completion in April 2016. When we started the project we didn’t have any preconceptions or visions of what we wanted to look at. The starting point was finding the right location and understanding what the market wanted. Then, it was collaboration between our team and the architects. The guiding principle was always ‘how do we create something that is an exceptional space and delivers an enjoyable experience?’ Wherever you are in a Muraba Residence apartment, you feel you are in the sea. Whether you’re in the dining room or the kitchen, you always feel the sea present.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 09

SCHOLARS

E S TAT E O F M I N D

Muraba Residence, Palm Jumeirah

What guidelines did you give the team at RCR Arquitectes in terms of design? In terms of design, we had no criteria at all. We deliberately do that because we want to receive the work of the architect; we don’t want our designs because then every single project we do will be the same. We were very careful to ensure that it’s the architect’s domain and we allow them to do their job.

space. In fact, the whole journey is very interesting. Why a space is created, what purpose it fulfills, how the architect approaches that, how the client interacts with that, and the processes that the client and the architect go through in between are interesting. Also, how you work with your partners, such as contractors and suppliers, is vital because everybody plays a roll in the creation of that piece.

I provided them with the programme and then they are executing it. I am giving the architects full creativity over the job.

What do you find interesting when it comes to the design of spaces? Space can be very versatile; you can use it in many different ways. What’s interesting,

Please tell us about your own home, which you’re currently having designed. It is still in the early concept stages, but it is

What futures plans have you set in place for your company? For the time being, we are focused on realising this one, Muraba Residences, Palm Jumeirah. We will definitely be looking at more projects but we are very careful in terms of selection and location. The same principle drives what our next development will be and that will be to deliver an exceptional experience. Once we

I think, is how someone approaches space and for what purpose one is creating a

contemporary. I’m using the same company, RCR Arquitectes, as we have a good rapport.

have identified the location, we will probably move on to the next one.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 09

Savoir Faire A fine piece of artistry is made to be admired and cherished, but the hours of craftsmanship that go into making it is what makes it truly special. In this section, some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest artisans share their secrets behind the creation of one-of-a-kind masterpieces.

S AV O I R FA I R E

WAT C H T H I S FA C E

Watch

this face

CHANEL’S LATEST COMPLICATION, THE J12 RÉTROGRADE MYSTÉRIEUSE, SETS IN MOTION A NEW SEASON FOR WATCHMAKING AND PROVES THAT THE BRAND IS FAR MORE THAN A HIGH-FASHION HOUSE

Chanel is one of the most famous brands in the world. Held in the highest esteem by stylish luxury consumers of all ages and cultures, the fashion house transcends borders. While Chanel may be known principally for its haute couture collections and ready-to-wear clothing, the brand’s watchmaking division is causing a stir among collectors off the catwalk. Chanel watchmakers have taken the brand’s virtues of top notch quality, expert craftsmanship and trend-setting style and instilled them into several collections of luxury timepieces. Classic models such as the Chanel J12 – a ceramic watch that’s available in white, black and chrome – form the foundation of the range, along with the Chanel Première – a watch featuring a distinctive rectangular dial and chain strap. On the other end of the scale is the brand’s range of striking jewellery watches, the key feature of which are beautifully designed diamond-studded dials and bracelets. Recently the brand has focused increasingly on creating innovative compilations with unique movements and designs. One watch in the collection, the Chanel Première Flying Tourbillon, takes on the sleek style of the standard Première, reflecting the original model through a striking black and silver rectangular design featuring 18 diamonds. Another timepiece, the Chanel J12 Flying Tourbillon is styled like a

give the diamond-studded comet the appearance that it is floating. Under the beautiful exterior of both of these timepieces is a mechanical self-winding movement designed exclusively for the fashion house by Renaud & Papi (APRP SA): the centre of advanced research and development for luxury Swiss watch brand Audemars Piguet. One of the most innovative grand compilations to launch to date is the Chanel J12 Rétrograde Mystérieuse. Designed and produced by famed watchmaker Giulio Papi – the man credited for bringing the minute repeater to the wrist – this model is even more creative than its predecessors. The timepiece brings together five innovative features: a tourbillon, a digital minutes display, a retrograde minutes hand, a 10-day power reserve and a retractable vertical crown. The crown is uniquely located on the dial, instead of the side, in order to ensure maximum comfort. Under the case, however, is where the real magic happens. The retrograde is the most fascinating part of the complication. While most minute hands on a wristwatch rotate in a circle, the hands on this model follow a path of their own. The position of the crown at three o’clock on the dial means that the hand cannot complete a full circle. To combat this, watchmakers have found a creative way for the hand to rotate using bidirectional changes. When the minute hand

comet. To exaggerate the visual effect, artisans moved the bridge to

reaches the crown, the hand reverses in an anticlockwise direction

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back around the dial to meet the other side of the crown. The hand then swaps directions again and restarts its clockwise revolution. The reverse movement takes 10 minutes exactly. So that wearers are not left without knowing the time for this period, a dial display at the 6 o’clock position displays minutes 11 through 19. The accuracy of this revolutionary mechanism is sustained by the watch’s tourbillon. The Rétrograde is a key example of how Chanel’s watches have enhanced from stylish accessories to high-tech devices that do far more than simply tell the time. Visually, the timepiece reflects the power of the movements inside. A sleek design is complemented with materials that are both

round dial. An 18-carat gold bezel embedded with 12 ceramic inserts protects the face, while red screws on the dial and back insert subtle flashes of colour. The timepiece is fastened with a bold strap, also in black high-tech ceramic, while the same 18-carat gold used for the bezel forms several other elements of the timepiece, including the perforated skeleton hands, the crown and the case back. Additional surface innovations, such as the use of an anti-reflective coating on the crystal cover to enable wearers to read the dial in all lights, add a luxurious element to the timepiece. Reflecting Chanel’s penchant for creating exclusive haute couture collections, this timepiece has been released in a limited

tough and luxurious. Black high-tech ceramic forms the base of the dramatic dial, which takes on the shape of the J12’s traditionally

edition of just 20 pieces: 10 in 18-carat white gold and 10 in 18-carat pink gold.

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Chanel J12 RĂŠtrograde MystĂŠrieuse

S AV O I R FA I R E

THE GENTLEMEN’S STREET

THE GENTLEMEN’S STREET Through the heart of the fashion capital of Italy, Milan, runs a street that’s dedicated to men’s fashion. On a par with the likes of London’s Savile Row, the Via Gesù is where stylish gentlemen come to shop for quality clothing and commission bespoke suits. Following its official inauguration in January, Signé explores why the street is so fundamental to Italian fashion and uncovers the most exciting brands that have secured their place in history

The fashion capital of Italy has just landed itself a gentlemen’s fashion street. The Via dell’Uomo is a

the perfect suit and an excellent haircut to jewellery for his wife. The Gentlemen’s Street now finally has a

street in a physical sense coinciding with Via Gesù. Placed in the fashion quarters of Milan, Via Gesù crosses the renowned Via Montenapoleone on the south side and Via della Spiga on the north. As the city’s first ‘Gentlemen’s Street’ it plans to be much more than just a road. Through the years it has found its own very peculiar identity as a place where a tailored service meets the best of Italian quality and design. Umberto Angeloni, CEO of menswear brand Caruso, first had the idea in 1998 and since then has been working with the consortium to make the street a reality. “Milan is already not just the capital of fashion; it’s also the capital of menswear,” says Angelino. “Via Gesù has been chosen through the years mainly by men-oriented lifestyle shops. The Gentlemen’s Street will be a way of promoting this even more.” With two tailors, a barbershop, a fivestar luxury hotel with a marvelous spa, two restaurants, three artisan shoe shops and even a school, the street is full of life at every time of the day. Via Gesù is 230 metres of

date of birth: January 17 2015, right on the first day of Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week, when it was officially inaugurated. “That day we launched a series of events which will be held throughout the year and they will involve not only the brands in the street, but also important institutional partners,” says Angeloni. When it comes to men’s fashion, one immediately thinks of Pitti Uomo, the biannual menswear event in Florence organised by Pitti Immagine. That is why Angeloni involved CEO of Pitti Immagine, Raffaello Napoleone, right from the start. Napoleone backs the project of Via Gesù and will help with the organisation of events and with the promotion of the street round the world. “The Gentlemen’s Street is an opportunity to strengthen the Italian leadership role in men’s lifestyle,” says Napoleone. Here, he doesn’t speak just about the fashion side because what the street has to offer is so much more. The Italian lifestyle is recognised to be one of the most sophisticated and balanced in the world. So where there is work – maybe a corporate meeting at

pure Italian excellence, where a man can find everything he wants and needs, from

the Four Seasons Hotel at the heart of the street – there can then be a quiet lunch with

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A tailor from French company Zilli measures material for the creation of a suit

the excellence of the food of Il Salumaio restaurant, which a few years ago also decided to move to the street. Via Gesù can be a truly unique experience and according to those who first believed in it will become even more a place where men from all over the world will want to go. The Four Seasons Hotel holds an important and close relationship with Pitti Immagine and became naturally one of the core elements of the street. Not only is it one of the few five-star luxury hotels in Milan, it is also within a 1400 cloister and has a very close link with the fashion world. With 118 exclusive guest rooms, some of which have been inspired by some of the very brands that characterise the street, it is the epitome of luxury in the strictest sense. The recently added spa is a very welcome addition for the gentleman who likes to feel pampered in every sense. As far as brands are concerned, Brioni was one of the first to invest and believe in the street. This is unsurprising given that Angeloni was CEO of Brioni for many years and helped the expansion of what was a typically local, Italian brand, around the world. Started at the end of the Second World War, its first fashion show was held in 1952 at the Pitti Palace Florence. Worn by Cary Grant and Clark Gable in the 1950s it became the tailor of James Bond films in the 1990s. The

surprise the brand is at the forefront of men’s fashion and of the Gentlemen’s Street. Zilli is a French brand based in Lyon that specialises in menswear that’s both sporty and chic. When the brand had to choose a location for its Milan store, it too set up shop at Via Gesù, choosing the famous BagattiValsecchi building. In the 19th century, the building was owned by Fausto and Giuseppe Bagatti Valsecchi who turned it into a family home inspired by the Renaissance lifestyle. In 1979, it was bought from their heirs by the town of Milan as one of the many museum homes in the city. Looking at it now, the Bagatti-Valsecchi building exemplifies the history of this street, which has grown to become its focal point. Another luxury brand that has chosen to be part of the street is Neapolitan luxury tailor Kiton. The company, which defines itself as “the best of the best”, has a long history steeped in the production of madeto-measure suits, shirts and ties. As per tradition, all pieces are hand-sewn with no sewing machines involved. Menswear from this brand is made to last a lifetime. CEO of Kiton, Antonio De Matteis, wants to keep Kiton a family business, saying: “No foreign investments. We are a family and for the moment we would like to keep it that way.” Via Gesù’s offerings are not limited to menswear, however. Well-known Italian

specialises in fragrances, candles and accessories, made a home on the street in 1993. The same year Angeloni decided to create the Gentlemen’s Street. More than just a boutique, the outlet is the brand’s flagship store. As one of the brands of the consortium, Acqua di Parma embodies an all-Italian style, evoking its origins and unmistakable sophistication. Acqua di Parma is a modern classic, remaining true to its timeless heritage. Its history dates back to 1916 when master perfumers created a new fragrance in a small perfumer’s laboratory in the old town centre of Parma. The scent was unusually fresh and modern compared to the German perfumes that were so popular at the time and were stronger and more intense. The fragrance was the first real Italian eau de cologne and expressed a new sensibility. The most striking thing was the purity of the fragrance was produced exclusively with natural ingredients and, to this day, this fact remains so. As such, the scents are popular with true luxury aficionados. Other upcoming additions to the street include outlets for luxury men’s clothing brands Caruso and Stefano Ricci. These openings are further proof of the interest that the project is having with menswear brands. Perhaps in time Via Gesù will find its place among the world’s most famous retail streets, alongside the likes of London’s Savile Row

link with Pitti Immagine remained and it is no

lifestyle company Acqua di Parma, which

and New York City’s Fifth Avenue.

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THE PERFECT FIT Dating back to Neolithic times, the shoe ‘last’ is an essential piece of equipment not only for the artisanal cordwainer but also for the mass production of shoes all over the world B Y C H A R L O T T E VA N D E N B R O U C Q U E

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MADE TO MEASURE Worn day in, day out, few stop to consider that behind the humble shoe is a fascinating history. Because of the complicated nature of creating a pair of shoes by hand, they were an expensive purchase for most, made only a handful of times during a lifetime. Until the mid-19th century, the process and tools used for making a pair of shoes had changed very little since the time of the ancient Egyptians. What revolutionised the shoe industry was the industrialisation of many of the processes traditionally undertaken by hand. Whether formed by hand or made by a machine, the single most important tool to the shoemaker has always been the shoe ‘last’. This is essentially a sculpture around which the shoe is shaped, molded and sewn, and reflecting the measurements of the wearer’s foot as

sketch around the foot, taking various measurements including the ball, waist, instep and heel girth as well as the length. Envisioning the final look of the shoe, the last-maker then chisels a model into wood before materials are built up around it. The early 1900s saw the introduction of a machine that could duplicate an original hand-chiseled last up to one thousand times a day, beginning the industrialisation of this once specialised task. As manufacturers of shoes moved from the local cordwainer to factories, ambitions in the footwear industry were high. With investment came leaps in technology and increasingly sophisticated ways of making accurate shoe lasts reflecting the different curvature of both the left and right feet. In the 1960s, lasts started to be made from durable plastics that proved to be far more efficient for mass production

to create millions of perfect shoe lasts in a small time frame to match the growing demand for shoes from consumers. However, the bespoke shoemaking industry is still going strong, even if the skilled last-maker is a rarity today. Cordwainers that have existed for hundreds of years can be found in London’s upmarket Jermyn Street district, famous for producing some of the world’s finest gentlemen’s fashion. Brands such as John Lobb, Henry Maxwell and Foster & Son provide a dedicated bespoke shoe service to the discerning customer. Starting with a consultation to build a bespoke pair of shoe lasts for the client, the process of creating the shoes will take around six months to a year and cost upwards of AED10,000. With only the finest materials and secondto-none workmanship, however, these are

well as the design of the shoe. Traditionally made from hardwood, the last-maker would

than wooden lasts. Computer-aided design and cutting-edge machinery now combine

shoes that boast a timeless style and quality materials that will last a lifetime.

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LASTING IMPRESSIONS Essential for protection from rough terrain, burning sands and freezing conditions, our ancestors have been wrapping feet in skins and furs since time immemorial. The earliest shoes will have been a crude version of what we know now, with raw leather or woven

and denoting the social status of the wearer. The Romans developed sandals that armies could march on with senior-ranking officers boasting higher-topped sandals laced up the calf. Despite the simple designs compared to modern shoes, even 2,000 years ago

various points for both men and women, for example. Despite the changes of shoe design there was very little innovation in the way lasts were made from the ancient times to the mid-19th century. In 1822, the first shoe lasts designed specifically for right and

plants such as papyrus or palm strapped to the foot. As populations became more sophisticated, the earliest shoemakers realised it would be much simpler to make footwear shaped around a model. Stone Neolithic shoe lasts housed at the Salzburg museum have been dated between 2800BCE

it would be necessary for shoemakers to employ some kind of last on which to model footwear. Noble Romans also wore shoes known as calcei that covered the whole foot. While slaves were forbidden from wearing this type of shoe, senators had the privilege of wearing red calcei with an additional cresentmoon-shaped ivory decoration if they were

left feet were invented by American cobblers in the then-popular shoemaking state of Massachusetts. Incredibly, until this time there was no difference between lasts for left and right feet, known as straights, resulting in a long and uncomfortable breaking-in period. While mass production may have saved us from the discomforts of shoemaking of

and 1000BCE, while Clay Neolithic forms from the early Iron Age have been discovered in Hallstatt, Austria. It was with the ancient civilisations of Egypt and Greece, however, that footwear started to combine form as well as function. Sandals were a practical footwear solution given the warm weather and decoration became increasingly refined as civilisations developed, reflecting fashions

an important state official. Wooden or hardwearing iron lasts were used to form these types of shoes and enabled the hammering of hobnails into the leather. For each of the time periods that followed, shoes reflected different fashions requiring widely varying shaped lasts on which to make the shoes. In the last 500 years, high heels have gone in and out of fashion at

the past, on the feet and the pocket, the price to be paid is the ever-shrinking group of people who call themselves last-makers. Only a few craftsmen remain, keeping the ancient tradition alive, creating bespoke lasts for those demanding perfection. As they toil to create an accurate and fashionable model on which to create a shoe, they channel a fascinating history spanning 4,000 years.

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BUILT TO LAST Traditionally, the first job of a last-maker was to choose a suitable wood from which to make a last. A hardwood is essential to deal with the wear and tear associated with building the shoe around its form. While bespoke lasts do not face the same pressure as those used in mass production, they must still endure repeated materials being tacked and pinned to them as well as leather that may be wet when stretched over the form and then left to dry. The last-maker will consider whether the wood cuts cleanly without fraying, how likely it is to split, whether there are knots or other inconsistencies that can affect the overall shape and the closeness of the grain which will determine the final polish of the wood. Maple, beech or hornbeam are considered the best woods for creating shoe lasts that will provide a durable model for the shoe.

maker starts to chisel the shape from the spoke with a long knife. Once the general shape is established, finer tools are used to create a perfect finish such as sandpaper, glass paper, files, draw knives and spoke shaves. The process is long and arduous and one mistake can render the last ineffective and the maker will have to begin again. It is easy to see how this skill has become a rarity when machines can create perfect plastic lasts in minutes rather than hours. Computer-aided design software used in the mass production of shoes in factories is a fascinating feat in itself. Three-dimensional images of the last are created on the computer until the designer is satisfied with the look of the shoe. Generic plastic lasts are then refined in a chiselling machine that carves the shape into the last as it spins.

details are finished by hand as the toe and heal are ground on a sanding machine for a smooth surface. If the lasts are deemed unusable for any reason then they can be melted down and reused. Leaps in technology and the mass production of shoes has meant that what was previously considered a once-in-a-lifetime, luxury purchase because it was so expensive has become accessible to all. In a short century the average wardrobe now contains multiple pairs of shoes for every occasion. Standardisation of shoe sizes and widths, however, can never provide a truly accurate fit. A perfect fit can only be accomplished with a bespoke pair individually tailored to the wearerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foot and made with exceptional care and accuracy. The cost of this may be great, but the savvy consumer realises the

The shape of the sole of the shoe is sketched onto a block of wood and the last-

The last is cut in half so that it can easily be removed from the completed shoe. The final

value of individual style, accurate tailoring and enduring quality.

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Back to the future THE NOVEL PIERRE ARPELS HEURE D’ICI & HEURE D’AILLEURS TIMEPIECE BREATHES FRESH LIFE INTO ONE OF VAN CLEEF & ARPELS’ GREATEST ICONS, THE PA 49

One of the greatest dilemmas that world travellers face is that of time differences. Moving frequently between countries and time zones can be disorienting and keeping track of the time both at home and in the present destination is essential to ensure that all commitments, whether a business meeting or a call to family, are met during appropriate times of the day. Timepieces that feature dual time zone functions are, as such, essential possessions for such a gentleman. Despite the intricate mechanics that go into the creation of such an item, a watch of this kind doesn’t have to look overly

While dual time technology is not new, the way the luxury brand displays it is. Van Cleef & Arpels’ newest timepiece, the Pierre Arpels Heure d’Ici & Heure d’Ailleurs, abandons the customary twodial dual time design to present the same technology in a uniquely understated fashion. Subtle time zone displays present the hour in two countries at the 5 o’clock mark and the 11 o’clock. Wearers can easily programme one display to always reflect the hour at home and the other to represent a destination of choice. This timepiece is a fascinating blend of classic style and modern

contemporary or elaborate, as proven by Van Cleef & Arpels.

innovation. While many dual-time zone watches feature two full

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Van Cleef & Arpels founders Claude, Pierre and Jacques Arpels (left to right)

circular dials on the face, this timepiece doesn’t even feature one. Instead, it features a distinctive double jumping hour and minute retrograde display. The minute counter is set on a curve between the five- and 10-hour point, rather than a full circle. Over the course of an hour, the hand slowly rotates clockwise until it reaches the 60-minute mark on the graduated scale, at which the hand flicks down in an anticlockwise motion to the one-minute mark again. At the exact same time, the two time discs are updated in synchronism to represent the new hour, before the hand restarts its circuit. This exclusive revolutionary self-winding movement was developed in partnership with independent Geneva-based watchmaking company Agenhor (Atelier Genevois d’Horlogerie). Visually, the timepiece reflects the style of Van Cleef & Arpels’ famous PA 49 model that was designed by one of the three founding brothers, Pierre Arpels, in 1949. Pierre Arpels was known for his inventive nature and creative eye for design. He designed the classic

accentuated the elegance of both the watch and the wrist, while an eye-catching white dial with Roman numerals was simplistic yet polished. The Founder famously wore the timepiece on his right wrist while working at the company office so that he could glance at it easily while examining sketches and documents. At the time, the wristwatch was available only to Pierre Arpels’ social circle, but in 1967, it was released to the public and remains one of the brand’s most iconic pieces to this day. The design is regularly re-released in fresh colours and materials under the Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels collection. The new Pierre Arpels Heure d’Ici & Heure d’Ailleurs model, which is the first in the range to feature a dual time complication, brings the visual values of the PA 49 timepiece back to life. Featuring the original model’s white enamel dial, black leather strap and perfectly circular extra-thin case, the timepiece sums up Pierre Arpels’ panache for discreet sophistication. The thinness of the case via a platinum bidirectional micro-rotor that takes up a remarkably small

PA 49 to be the epitome of masculine elegance. An ultra-thin case

space. Despite being miniature, the rotor oscillates in two directions

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to continuously supply energy. The movement, which is viewable through the sapphire crystal case back, is adorned with a snailed pattern on the bridges, while the micro-rotor features the Van Cleef & Arpels hallmark blue lacquered design. This characteristic trademark is echoed on the watch face through a piqué motif at the centre of the pure white lacquer dial. The model name, Heure d’Ici & Heure d’Ailleurs, also appears in blue cursive script on the dial curve opposing the minute scale. A black alligator strap adds a masculine touch to the timepiece, while the white gold material of the case, hand and ardillon strap buckle

Van Cleef & Arpels is known around the world for its glittering highjewellery collections and highly decorative jewelled timepieces, so this simplistic yet elegant model is a breathe of fresh air for collectors of classic-look timepieces. However, if one diamond isn’t enough glamour, customers have the option to embed additional gems into the bezel. Clients can also choose from dial diameters of 38 or 42mm. An essential accessory for world travellers with a taste for luxury mechanical watches, the Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels Heure d’Ici & Heure d’Ailleurs brings together the brand’s traditional values with modern mechanics. With such sophistication applied to the timepiece

provide an elegant contrast. A single baguette-cut diamond set on the crown adds a glistening finishing touch.

both above and below the surface, it is set to remain in style for many decades to come, whatever the time zone.

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Signé Selection Owning a luxury object is one of life’s great pleasures. Signé Selection features products that define the lifestyle of those to whom quality is more important than price, while a sub-section titled For Her is devoted to a man’s significant other.

S PR E Z ZAT UR A WORD: SPREZ·ZA·TU·RA PRONUNCIATION: /ˌsprɛtsəˈt(j)ʊərə / sprāt-tsä-ˈtü-rä DEFINITION: rehearsed spontaneity, studied nonchalance and well-practised naturalness

Berluti SS15

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GOING GREEN 1. Bag : Santoni 2. Glasses : Tod’s 3. Tie : Hermès 4. Shoes : Tod’s

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BUSINESS AS USUAL 1. Briefcase : Berluti 2. Briefcase : Dior Homme 3. Briefcase : Santoni 4. Briefcase : Hermès

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ALL IN BLUE 1. Tod’s - Glasses 2. Santoni - Bag 3. Christian Dior - Tie Bar 4. Christian Dior - Cufflinks 5. Tod’s - Shoes 2

WALK THE WALK 1. Shoes : Santoni 2. Shoes : Dior Homme 3. Shoes : Salvatore Ferragamo

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Etro SS15

PLAYFUL TOUCH 4 1. Bow tie : Etro 2. Shirt :Etro 3. Bag : Etro 4. Cufflinks : Etro 5. Shoes : Etro

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FINISHING TOUCH 1. Bracelet : Tod’s 2. Bracelet : Salvatore Ferragamo 3. Cufflinks : Salvatore Ferragamo 4. Cufflinks : Salvatore Ferragamo 5. Bracelet : Gucci 6. Bracelet : Salvatore Ferragamo

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OBJECTS OF DESIRE 1. Lamp : Hermès 2. Wallet : Hermès 3. Lamp : Hermès 4. Bicycle : Hermès

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FOR HER

fit for a queen WITH VALENTINE’S DAY OCCURING THIS MONTH, A GIFT FROM THE FORMER CROWN JEWELLER OF THE UK, GARRARD, IS GUARANTEED TO MAKE ANY WOMAN FEEL LIKE ROYALTY

The British Crown Jewels is one of the most famous jewellery collections in history. To be in charge of such jewels is a prestigious job that is awarded to only the best jewellery houses in the world. In 1843, Queen Victoria charged London brand Garrard with the honour of being the official Crown Jeweller of the UK, a position it held for several decades until 2007. During this time, the company maintained the royal

can be safely dismantled and used as a necklace pendant, while another section transforms into a pair of earrings. Similar concepts are applied to necklaces and bracelets also. This innovative design concept ensures that jewellery suites have increased wearability as each piece can be used for a multitude of occasions. Bespoke services remain a key part of Garrard’s business model. The team is adept at designing and

family’s historical treasures and crafted striking new pieces such as the Crown of Queen Mary, the Crown of Queen Elizabeth and Diana, Princess of Wales’ sapphire engagement ring, which is currently being worn by Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge. While members of royal families around the world continue to commission bespoke pieces from Garrard, the brand has expanded over the past decade and developed beautiful jewellery lines that are available to purchase in select boutiques across the globe, such as Damas in The Dubai Mall. Whether it’s a one-of-a-kind tiara, an extravagant jewellery suite or a pair of earrings from a ready-to-wear range, each piece of Garrard jewellery reflects the brand’s ethos of Britishness, heritage and craftsmanship. The London-based design team takes inspiration from English heritage and often reflect elements of historical Garrard pieces in their collections. The Entanglement range is evidence of this and features design components of the Cambridge Lovers’ Knot tiara created by Garrard for Queen Mary in 1914. Similarly, the brand’s newest line, Albemarle, is inspired by another of Queen Mary’s treasures, the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland tiara. Designers also like to reflect ideals such a peace and moments in UK history through their work. The beautiful Tudor Rose collection is a key example of this as each piece features a floral motif taken from a traditional emblem from the Tudor dynasty. Garrard is famous for its interchangeable jewellery suites. Each

creating any manner of fine jewellery or silverware that the client desires. The brand places great emphasis on quality of service and ensures that every step of the production process is perfect. Eric Deardorff, Garrard Chief Executive Officer, has played a key role in revamping these services, from sales tactics right down to staff selection. He explains: “My design team has not only phenomenal capabilities, they are also extremely personable. I interviewed some designers to come to Garrard that just didn’t have open personalities. Our main three women on the team are the nicest ladies.” This is important because when a local sales person at any Garrard outlet in the world needs help closing a big sale, Deardorff flies a designer to the boutique, where they spend two or three days sitting with the client to understand their requirements and work on the bespoke design. After such an impressive start, Deardorff then ensures that each commission is delivered in a timely manner. “I prioritise bespoke anywhere around the world,” says Deardorff. “The team turns things around in three to five days, while I’ve heard that my competitors can take two to four months just to get a design. So you can imagine when some of these clients come to Garrard and my designers turn it around in a couple of days, it’s phenomenal.” Whether the client is a king, a sheikh or a businessman, Garrard ensures that each piece is worthy of royalty and reflects the regal

piece is rarely all that it seems. A central section of a tiara, for example,

heritage that defines the brand’s leading principles.

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FOR HER

ALBEMARLE COLLECTION BY G AR R AR D

Named after a London street where Garrard is based, the Albemarle collection features jewellery pieces inspired by a tiara that the brand created for Princess Victoria in 1893. Commissioned by her ladies in waiting, the tiara – named Girls of Great Britain and Ireland – was worn frequently by the Princess throughout her life, including when she became Queen of England. Albemarle masterpieces reflect the tiara’s intricate ‘diamond and dot’ design across a dazzling range of diamond-set drop earrings, bracelets, rings and elegant necklaces covered in precious stones.

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Philanthropy Generosity is a barometer by which greatness can be measured. This section introduces the charitable and environmental efforts of brands and companies that choose to be considerate towards the world we all live in today.

PHILANTHROPY

A N AT U R A L PA R T N E R S H I P

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A natural partnership Preserving the Galápagos Islands for future generations to explore and enjoy is at the root of IWC Schaffhausen’s fruitful fundraising partnership with the Charles Darwin Foundation BY OLIVIA CUTHBERT

When Darwin set out on the HMS Beagle in 1831, aged 22 and full of the spirit of adventure, he had little idea of the significance this trip would hold. The now-famous voyage, which took him across the world to the remote Galápagos Islands on a five-year scientific expedition, laid the foundations for his groundbreaking theory of evolution, which not only changed the path of contemporary thought in his day but remains a core principle in modern evolutionary thinking. Throughout the voyage, the young Darwin, a former medicineturned-divinity student, had become increasingly aware of the sheer extent of nature’s diversity. It was on the Galápagos Islands, a distant archipelago set deep in the Pacific Ocean and home to a huge population of plants and animals – many of them endemic – that he felt the first sparks of his now-famous theory flutter in his mind. He noticed that certain species of tortoise and bird displayed marked differences depending on which island they were from and that each was ideally adapted to suit its particular environment. The findings puzzled Darwin, and on his return to Britain, he fleshed out his ideas over the course of 20 years’ research, eventually producing his landmark work on the subject, On the Origin of Species. The book, which suggested that creatures evolve over generations by means of natural selection – in essence survival of the fittest – caused a widespread stir with its challenge Galápagos Islands

to established beliefs in God’s grand design.

PHILANTHROPY

A N AT U R A L PA R T N E R S H I P

Over the years, however, Darwin’s initially controversial ideas became the conventional line of belief and he has long since taken his place in the academic hall of fame – one of the elite few from the

Most recently, IWC Schaffhausen, together with the Charles Darwin Foundation, have joined forces to create a new membership programme that will enable anyone to participate in the preservation of

realm of science whose ideas remain ever-present in popular thinking and continue to inform contemporary inquiry. His reputation and the endurance of his theories requires no preservation but the source of his defining discoveries does. The Galápagos Islands remain a wonder of the natural world and home to a large number of species found nowhere else on the planet. Over the years, efforts to preserve the islands have been increased as external factors, including unbridled tourism and the introduction of non-native species, threaten their

these natural and historic treasures. According to according to Swen Lorenz, CEO of the Charles Darwin Foundation, the new programme will “enable participants with an interest in environmental issues to donate money to the Charles Darwin Foundation and give everyone the opportunity to support our mission in conserving the archipelago’s unique range of fauna and flora”. The three-tiered membership plan aims to accelerate progress in preservation work on the islands with a much-need injection

precious biodiversity. The Charles Darwin Foundation is at the heart of these efforts and has been working for over 50 years to preserve the islands for future generations to enjoy. The official mission of the organisation, as stated by the foundation’s president Dr Dennis Geist, is to “provide science that will help to conserve the environment and biodiversity of the archipelago and that enables decision-makers to work towards a truly sustainable Galápagos,” and to do so “within the context of

of funds. Participants can get involved via a number of options, including donations of USD1,000 (AED3,700), which entitles the giver to ‘Benefactor’ status with the Charles Darwin Foundation. As such, they will be invited to events hosted by the foundation and by IWC Schaffhausen, including the annual Charles Darwin Foundation General Assembly and IWC Schaffhausen boutique events. In addition, they receive a special documentation package and preferential treatment if travelling to the Galápagos Islands, including a VIP tour

dynamic changes in the commercial, political, and social landscapes of the Galápagos Islands.” In 2009, the Charles Darwin Foundation celebrated 50 years since its founding, alongside the 150th anniversary of the publication of On the Origin of Species. That same year, the organisation formed a new partnership with Swiss watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen with a view to launching a fresh fundraising campaign designed to protect the flora and fauna of the Galápagos Islands. The venture, which is now entering its sixth year, continues to serve as an important funding

of the research station. Another option invites donations of USD200 (AED740) and offers participants the opportunity to become ‘Supporters of Charles Darwin Foundation’. This entitles them to receive the Charles Darwin Foundation and IWC Schaffhausen newsletters in addition to an invitation to the research station if travelling to the islands. A third option allows those who donate USD20 (AED74) to symbolically adopt an endangered species and in so doing take a positive step toward protecting the animals of the Galápagos Islands and the habitat in

pool for some of the expensive preservation programmes in progress.

which they live.

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Back of the IWC Schaffhausen Aquatimer Chronograph Edition ‘Expedition Charles Darwin’, bearing Darwin’s face

This is one of several preservation-orientated initiatives that IWC Schaffhausen and Charles Darwin Foundation have undertaken together over the years. “The Galápagos Islands represent a unique environment and we take pride in supporting the Charles Darwin Foundation in its efforts to preserve it,” said Georges Kern, CEO of IWC Schaffhausen. “We regularly hear from individuals who express a desire to take a more active role. In response, we support this programme that will enable individuals to help the Charles Darwin Foundation’s work and at the same time enjoy a variety of exclusive benefits,” he added. Previous efforts have included the launch of special and limitededition IWC Schaffhausen watches that serve as ambassadors for the cause with a percentage of sale proceeds set aside for Charles Darwin Foundation activities. One such line is the IWC Schaffhausen Aquatimer 2014 collection, which included its sixth special edition model dedicated to the great scientist, the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition ‘Expedition Charles Darwin’. This new model was the first in the history of IWC Schaffhausen to feature bronze in a watch case and upholds the brand’s tradition of innovation and expertise in the field of horology. The Aquatimer series is IWC Schaffhausen’s diver range

It was then that IWC Schaffhausen released its first Aquatimer watch featuring an internal rotating bezel to display dive time and pressure resistant to 20 bar. This was followed in 1982 by a titanium model capable of withstanding immense pressure to 200 bar. The brand has continued developing innovative dive watches ever since. The 2014 Aquatimer collection features the new external/internal rotating bezel, which combines the advantages of both bezel types. An important feature of the external rotating bezel on this series is the SafeDive system that can be moved easily and precisely in steps of one minute, even when wearing diving gloves. The safety element comes into play by preventing it from being turned anticlockwise, ensuring that even when a diver moves the bezel accidentally, zero hour – the time at which they can return safely to the surface without the need for decompression stops – is not exceeded. It is one of the many painstakingly researched and carefully developed technical and aesthetic features that contributes to the sophistication of the Aquatimer range and make it a proud example of IWC Schaffhausen’s commitment to innovation and constant improvement. As such, it perfectly illustrates one of Darwins most famous quotations, “It is not the strongest of the species that survives,

and features the latest developments in underwater timekeeping, built on the brand’s long history in the field, which dates back to the 1960s.

nor the most intelligent that survives. It is the one that is the most adaptable to change.”

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PHILANTHROPY

F R O M T H E F A I R W AY

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FROM THE FAIRWAY The UAE’s only professional golfer, Ahmed Al Musharrekh, launches a foundation to encourage local children to follow in his footsteps and, in turn, make golf a national sport BY RACHEL INGRAM

With its unbeatable weather, first-class golf clubs and luscious greens, Dubai is a metropolis for golf enthusiasts.

to be professionals. There are juniors in the national team who are doing very well but I want to do my best to support them. I will be

Many of these talents, however, come from abroad. While most of the world’s top golf pros have visited the emirates to take part in one of its many golfing tournaments, the sport can be seen by some as an elitist sport for foreigners. In fact, in the whole of the UAE there is currently only one pro golfer, Ahmed Al Musharrekh. In recent years, however, local interest in the sport

happy if we can help to increase the amount of nationals that have a chance to play this game professionally and to succeed in other aspects of the game as well.” Al Musharrekh explains that the game can have a positive impact on many aspects of a child’s life when growing up, making it far more than a leisure hobby. “Golf has made such an impact on my life personally,

has started to grow, thanks to people like Al Musharrekh. As well as setting an example of success for young golfers, the Emirati sportsman has launched a foundation to make golf available to those who wish to try it, from an early age. Through the Ahmed Al Musharrekh Foundation, he hopes to inspire young Emiratis to take up golf and reap the benefits that the sport has given him. Al Musharrekh grew up in a golfing family. His father introduced him to the sport at the age of six and now, at 24, he is the UAE’s top golfer. Dubbed the Emirati answer to Tiger Woods, he has competed in a number of high-profile events such as the GCC Golf Championships. Meanwhile, his younger and elder brothers play on the UAE national team. Due to his upbringing, Al Musharrekh knows well that encouragement and opportunities are essential to acquire such success. It was this thinking that encouraged him to launch the Ahmed Al Musharrekh Foundation. “Creating the foundation has always been a dream of mine,” he says. “Being in my position, as

on the course and off the course, and the way I’m moving in my life,” he says. “Playing can help children when it comes to etiquette and the way they carry themselves on the course. They can also use golf as a tool on the business side or to create opportunities; if they also want to play college golf in the US, for example.” The first stage of the project is to reach out to local schools in Sharjah, Dubai and Abu Dhabi and introduce golf to the young nationals via talks with Al Musharrekh and other professionals. The foundation will also create ties with golf clubs across the UAE and arrange to take students into the clubs to give them first-hand experience of the sport. Next, in the coming years, the project will expand across the GCC, so that one day golfers from Lebanon, Bahrain and Egypt, for example, will stand alongside the biggest names in the industry. The foundation was inspired by the efforts of pro golfers such as Arnie Els, Tiger Woods and Rory McIlroy, all of whom have launched foundations or training schools of

the only UAE National golfer in the country, I don’t see many children who are aspiring

their own. As the UAE’s only professional golfer, Al Musharrekh feels that the

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PHILANTHROPY

F R O M T H E F A I R W AY

Ahmed Al Musharrekh (centre) wih Ross Bain (far left) plus supporters and local children during the foundation’s launch event in Dubai

responsibility falls on him to give back. He says: “It’s my responsibility. I feel like it’s a blessing to be in this position, I’m very lucky and I get a lot out of it. It only makes sense to do something like this from now, to give my information of the game and support them as much as I can.” Of course, he has avid support from his partners, such as Ross Bain, CEO of RJB Leisure and Co-Founder of the Ahmed Al Musharrekh Foundation. As a former Scottish professional golfer who has lived in Dubai for many years, Bain is fully qualified to help Al Musharrekh in his mission. “It’s not about becoming the best golfer, it’s more about enjoyment and trying something different,” says Bain. “You might have been predisposed to football because that’s what everyone knows but now let’s introduce a new game that’s not intrinsically linked with the culture here. Ahmed got that chance from his dad who liked to play golf, but at the moment it’s still a minority sport in the region and we want to change that.” “The rest of the world comes here to play golf, so let’s try to build golf within the UAE

too. It’s been here for a long time but is still in its infancy with regards to the number of people playing. We can take those barriers away for some of them, whether it’s a cost or organising transportation or getting golf courses to open their doors and bring in these national kids,” adds Bain.

Jaermann & Stübi watch dedicated to the Ahmed Al Musharrekh Foundation

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Another great supporter is Jaermann & Stübi, a luxury watch brand that focuses on creating timepieces specifically for the game of golf. The Swiss company is famed for creating the world’s first mechanical watch that can count a player’s strokes during a game and compares the results with their handicap. Jaermann & Stübi is closely linked to the Ahmed Al Musharrekh Foundation, supporting it through a number of channels, including sponsorship. As a celebration of the launch of the foundation, the company designed a limited edition timepiece, of which 40 percent of revenue is contributed towards the organisation’s projects. Following another of the brand’s tendencies, which involves taking a famous player’s clubs and melting them down to reuse as watch cases, the case of this exclusive model is made from the clubs that Al Musharrekh used at the foundation launch event, which saw him tee off on the World Islands in Dubai. If this striking stunt is anything to go by, the foundation is sure to draw attention to the local golf industry in no time.

Obsession The world of luxury favours those who know the true worth of exquisite possessions and will never settle for less than perfection. Obsession introduces precious bespoke items and collectibles that are designed for the most discerning and sophisticated luxury aficionados.

COVER STORY

ART OF MOVEMENTS

ART OF MOVEMENTS Despite being one of the smaller watch companies in the portfolio of Swiss luxury goods group Richemont, Roger Dubuis is forging ahead with big ambitions, its sharp ascendancy in the high-end, luxury watch segment proving just how overrated years of trial and error can be BY SAMIA QAIYUM

With their oversized cases, often extravagant designs and characteristic eccentricity, Roger Dubuis’ daring aesthetics can be described as somewhat of an acquired taste. Or in the words of Roger Dubuis Chief Executive Jean-Marc Pontroue: “The fact will still remain that you shouldn’t come to Roger Dubuis if all you want is a typical, classic watch.” But if a bold accessory is what you’re

And while the brand’s unconventional timepieces have the ability to divide opinion, horophiles everywhere can attest to the exceptional quality of the Roger Dubuis offering. It stands at the forefront of contemporary haute horlogerie, but unlike its venerable counterparts that are weighted by hundreds of years of history, Roger Dubuis has only been in existence since 1955. It was founded on the desire for

after then a timepiece from the luxury watch brand is definitely the right choice for you.

independence and watchmaking excellence by a talented watchmaker named Roger Dubuis and visionary designer Carlos Dias, a dynamic

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partnership that has resulted in some truly imaginative takes on horology. These strike a fine balance between the savoir-faire and expertise of the finest watchmaking mechanisms and avant-garde design. Creativity reigns supreme, with concepts such as the Excalibur Knights of the Round Table

aficionados will pore over the details of this ultimate quality certification, but for the more casual observer, it can be summarised as a guarantee of origin (mechanical movement, assembly and regulation in the Canton of Geneva), quality

and the cruciform-dial Follow Me coming to mind. Roger Dubuis’ status as a true manufacturer is evident in the fact that it has designed, developed and produced an astounding 31 separate, completely original movements in-house and, in the strict tradition of fine watchmaking, all the components of

of workmanship, durability and exceptional savoir-faire. Everything from the way the movement is set into the case to the way the screws are polished is covered in an extremely rigorous set of criteria. Dating back to 1886, the Geneva seal was set up

the maison’s exclusive movements are finished and decorated by hand. The Swiss Geneva-based watchmaker’s ongoing stream of creativity and rich mechanical DNA is expressed in models that form four different collections, each with its own character, Player, Warrior, Venturer and Diva. The Monégasque collection refers to the boldness and wit of the world of the Player, while the Excalibur collection is influenced by the strength, brilliance and discipline of the world of the Warrior. The limitations of ordinary life have no place in the world of the Venturer, or in the Pulsion watch models that evoke it. Finally, the world of the Diva is infused with elegance and beauty, just like the Velvet collection that has been inspired by it. These four collections naturally gravitate around the fifth element represented by the ‘Incredible Mechanics’ of the Hommage collection.

Roger Dubuis’ unique path to success compared to other luxury watch manufactures, large and small, is undeniable. Here’s a cocktail party fact about the Swiss maison that’s just as exclusive, the fully integrated manufacture Roger Dubuis is the only watchmaker in the world to have every one of its mechanical movements embossed

on request of the Société des Horlogers, who saw the international reputation of the city’s earliest fine watchmakers being compromised by both Swiss and foreign counterfeiters. The main task was to protect the reputation of the name ‘Geneva’ that was inscribed on the movements that were made, assembled and adjusted in the city. While the requirements have been rather stringent, they focused predominantly on aspects of the finishing and polishing of movement components, but were by no means simple. All parts of the movement, from the mainplate to the smallest screw, are to be hand-finished according to traditional techniques including polished chamfers, straight-grained sides, smoothed down or levelled faces, polished or circular-grained screw heads with chamfered edges. Yes, even the finishing of the screw heads had to comply with the Geneva Seal requirements. Still new, stricter, requirements were necessary. It has recently evolved in 2012, following the occasion of its 125th anniversary that the certification will no longer apply merely to the movement, but also to the watch in its entirety, including a view on the outward appearance of the timepiece and how it performs. And for Roger Dubuis, the Poinçon de Genève is not an end in itself, but rather

with the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal. This is a standard of excellence stemming from the tradition of haute horlogerie. Watch

integrated into the early design states of each movement in its relentless quest for global perfection.

SIGNED, SEALED, DELIVERED

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 09

COVER STORY

ART OF MOVEMENTS

AUTOMATIC While Roger Dubuis is renowned for its highly complicated movements, it has also developed its expertise in the field of automatic movements. Bearing the same daring style and exquisite detail, these self-winding mechanical movements, such as the RD821, display the hours, minutes and seconds. It’s this RD821 calibre that drives the magnificent Velvet Automatic that is produced in a limited series of 188 pieces. Effortlessly personifying a rock and roll spirit, this timepiece is decorated with Côtes Circulaires on the main plate while fine etching adds texture to its decor. Forty spinels on the lugs and 46 faceted amethysts on the bezel dance over the dial like a Byzantine mosaic, with the interplay of light and shadows creating a kaleidoscope of intense colours. The oscillating rotor is decorated with very light snailing, which helps to give this particular component a streamlined appearance.

FLYING TOURBILLON Roger Dubuis boasts a noted speciality in innovative tourbillon design and only produces the flying tourbillon – the most fascinating and refined approach to this major complication – as a result. Powered by the RD580 flying tourbillon calibre is the Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Chronograph with single-pusher, which was launched as a tribute to the Poinçon de Genève on its 125th anniversary. Produced in a limited edition of just eight pieces, the iconic model comes in a 45mm-diameter pink gold case with polishing on the top and brushing on the sides. A display at 12 o’clock shows the power reserve and a 45-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock. A view into the movement is available from the dial side via two circular cut-outs, one at 9 o’clock (flying tourbillon) and one a 6 o’clock (micro-rotor).

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PERPETUAL CALENDAR Creativity and functionality soar high in Roger Dubuis’ various interpretations of the calendar, as seen in the RD821J calibre. This latest generation self-winding movement serves to display the day of the week as well as the month in two side-by-side apertures, along with the date, moon phase and leap year – bringing together heaven and Earth on the wrist. From the La Monégasque collection that is inspired by the thrill and glamour of Monte Carlo’s casino world comes the La Monégasque Perpetual Calendar; its very strong resemblance to a roulette wheel, no accident. This supreme feat of miniaturisation features a rhodium-plated satin sunburst centre and black hand-stitched alligator strap that is offset by a pinkgold pin buckle, which complements the dial’s pink-gold applied Arabic numerals and 44mm pink-gold case.

QUATUOR With engineers, designers and master watchmakers working handin-hand at each stage of development to achieve a perfect fusion of technique and design, this is a movement that truly symbolises the mechanical magic of Roger Dubuis. Played by four virtuosi and accompanied by five differentials, the precision of this RD101 calibre presents the ultimate challenge to gravity – the watch constantly changes position with the motion of the wrist. While the tourbillon has provided a partial solution to this problem, the Excalibur Quatuor has the definitive answer. This silicon watch’s four meticulously positioned spring balances are each set at 45-degree angles and work in pairs to compensate immediately for the rate variations caused by the position changes, thus pushing the limits in terms of unprecedented accuracy and marking one of the major advances in modern-day watchmaking.

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COVER STORY

ART OF MOVEMENTS

SKELETON Designed from the beginning with function inseparably tied to their form, these skeleton movements have seen Roger Dubuis contribute to the current enthusiasm for open-worked movements by applying entirely original design principles at a time when most manufactures simply hollow out solid movements. As a result, the company is able to craft skeleton movements that are bolder and lighter in a contemporary fashion. Because two heads are better than one, particularly noteworthy is the skeleton double flying tourbillon movement. This extremely technical RD01SQ calibre comprises 319 parts and ensures greater precision due to a differential system that averages the rates of the two tourbillons. It requires 1,200 hours of manufacturing, of which 360 hours are devoted to the Poinçon de Genève. A true collector’s item that houses this movement is the Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon, aptly described as “Roger Dubuis’ most iconic creation” for bringing together the skeleton and the double flying tourbillion in an extravagant exercise in style and watchmaking expertise. Unlike the sword-shaped hands that are typical of the Excalibur design language, the hands on this model are skeletonised in order to harmonise with the rest of the watch. Meanwhile, a bold castellated bezel conjures up images of medieval times, its masculine form contributing to its ruggedly luxurious appeal.

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BI-RETROGRADE DATE A unique interpretation of standard date function, the bi-retrograde date calibre is powered by the Roger Dubuis micro-rotor automatic winding mechanism and utilises a clever jumping hand that crosses the face of the watch as it marks the days of the month. Days are arranged in butterfly symmetry with a date corrector carefully integrated at the 2 o’clock position. An evolution of this RD14B movement with Butterfly Calendar is the Excalibur Bi-Retrograde Jumping Date that is produced in a limited series of 88 and scores points for its extravagant design and lavish 45mm diameter. A fleeting glance can instantly distinguish the date from the time because dominant Roman numerals mark the hours, while the date display relies on an orange-coloured hand and Arabic numerals.

WORLD TIME Seamlessly blending user-friendliness and excellent legibility with a handy complication, Roger Dubuis has developed the exceptional World Time calibre with a simultaneous display of three different time zones. The bold RD1448 mechanism movement plays a starring role in the unique, one-of-a-kind Roger Dubuis Excalibur World Time that was created to celebrate the anniversary of Harrods’ prestigious Fine Watch Room. Exuding power and masculinity, the timepiece boasts sword-shaped hands for hours and minutes that sit with the warrior-like persona of the range. The white section of the numerals is omitted between 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock, and 8 o’clock and 10 o’clock. The area is reserved for two vertically elongated apertures and this is where the Swiss brand’s royal flush plays out – the model has three time zones, not the usual two that are normally found on fine watches.

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COVER STORY

ART OF MOVEMENTS

CHRONOGRAPH

MINUTE REPEATER

One of the most complex mechanisms, the chronograph occupies a place of choice within the Roger Dubuis range. The maison offers three self-winding chronograph calibres with column wheel, the signature of the most sophisticated mechanisms – a self-winding chronograph with semi-instant 30-minute counter and tungsten micro-rotor (RD680), a chronograph with 45-minute counter (RD78) and its open-worked variant equipped with a micro-rotor visible on the dial side (RD781). Part of the lighthearted Pulsion collection is the Pulsion Chronograph in a pink gold case, which plays the card of total transparency to reveal its technical prowess through a partially openworked dial. The model is instantly recognisable thanks to its very thick sapphire crystal that is secured via six special screws and covers both the dial and bezel. This revolutionary structure enables the Arabic numerals to be engraved under the crystal and enhanced with luminescent

Although consistently associated at Roger Dubuis with one or more other major complications – and with extraordinary results – the tuneful minute repeater is already one of the brand’s most sophisticated complications in its own right. The RD0829 movement also incorporates a flying tourbillon and an instantaneous perpetual calendar with in-line apertures and dual time zones. Meanwhile, the RD08 calibre uses a double micro-rotor with both a minute repeater and flying tourbillon. Issued in a limited edition of only 20 numbered pieces, the Hommage Minute Repeater Tourbillon Automatic bears the distinctive traits of the Hommage collection. For the watch exterior, these include leaf-type hands, a sunray guilloche motif, Roman numerals and a concave bezel. The minute repeater is not covered by a dial, thus providing a clear view of the parts in motion when

material.

the striking mechanism is in operation.

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OBSESSION

RACE AGAINST TIME

RACE AGAINST TIME Over 61 years after his death, audacious racecar driver Tazio Nuvolari continues to inspire athletes the world over. Gran Premio Nuvolari is an annual race, sponsored by luxury watch brand Eberhard & Co., which challenges such drivers to realise their abilities and follow in Nuvolari’s tyre tracks BY SAMIA QAIYUM

They say a passion for cars almost always starts when one is very young. This is certainly the case for Eberhard & Co. The bond shared between this Swiss luxury watch company and

to pursue a career as a professional racing driver, progressing from motorcycles to cars. He raced for Alfa Romeo, Ferrari and Auto Union from the 1920s to the 1950s, winning almost every event he took part in and is

“an un-useful pedal”, according to Nuvolari. An ongoing gamble with death was a guiding principle of the fearless Nuvolari’s sporting life, but after scoring a final success behind the wheel of a 1500cc Cisitalia at the

the world of racing dates back to 1991 when Eberhard & Co. launched a special chronograph as a tribute to Tazio Nuvolari, arguably the greatest racecar driver of all time. Born in 1892 in the historic Italian city of Mantua, Nuvolari cemented his place in motor sport history by being among the first

remembered to this day for his love of pure speed and ability to ‘drift’ around corners. While pointing the front wheels at the apex of the corner, the Italian legend would put the rear end of his cars into a controlled slide with the gas pedal kept fully open throughout the manoeuvre. Brakes were simply deemed

Monte Pelligrino-Palermo circuit in 1950, his deteriorating health became a problem. He died of a stroke in the summer of 1953, an event that deeply moved Renzo Castagneto, Aymo Maggi and Giovanni Canestrini – the men of the Mille Miglia, who planned “the most beautiful race in the world” to honour

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What’s interesting about regularity races

A timepiece launched by Eberhard & Co., as a tribute to Tazio Nuvolari

such as the Gran Premio Nuvolari is that the overall winner is generally within a couple of a seconds, at most, of the overall time set by the organisers. For succeeding at such a precise feat, the champion receives a special edition watch from the Eberhard & Co. Tazio Nuvolari collection, a line of automatic rewind mechanical chronographs created with a unique design philosophy inspired by

the memory of their dear friend. For the new race, they altered the traditional itinerary of the Mille Miglia open-road endurance race in order to divert it through Mantua. It went on to be called the Gran Premio Nuvolari, a Grand Prix dedicated to the Mantovano Volante (the ‘Flying Mantuan’). After four historical editions took place from 1954 to 1957, the Gran Premio Nuvolari disappeared with the end of the Mille Miglia in 1957, until a group of four friends from Mantua resurrected the race in 1991 as a three-day regularity rally for classic cars through central Italy. Eberhard & Co. was its sponsor and official timekeeper. Today, it is considered one of Italy’s most attractive and important motor events. The 2014 edition featured 270 cars (including 70 prewar vehicles) and 80 challenging regularity trials. Competitors drove 1,073 kilometres in approximately 80 timed stages on roads that took them from the picturesque setting of the Piazza Sordello in Mantua to Modena,

and Urbino before heading back north and passing through Ravenna and Ferrara. Eberhard & Co.’s collaboration with the race didn’t stop at timekeeping, however. With such bona fide car-enthusiast credentials, it’s only natural that the prestigious timepiece manufacturer went on to partner with Classicteam – the racing team from Mantua – in 2010. Boasting a fleet that encompasses almost 50 years of Italian and international car racing history, the ambitious team strives to accomplish three concrete goals: to create a team able to compete with the top pilots in the most important reliability trials, the promotion of reliability trails with vintage cars among young people by providing them with a car, and the organisation of the Italian Car Racing Championship in Mantua. Success was enjoyed by Classicteam at the Gran Premio Nuvolari’s 28th instalment in 2014, where it won second place overall. First place went to Andrea Vesco and Andrea Guerini driving a

the dashboards of period racing cars and dedicated to the racing legacy of the late champion Nuvolari. Making its debut at the 2014 Gran Premio Nuvolari was the ‘time only’ Tazio Nuvolari Solo Tempo, an automatic timepiece with a 42.50mm stainless steel case and distinctly sporty look. Truly personifying the Swiss brand’s historical connection with vintage cars, this newcomer features a black dial with a ‘perlée’ zone hosting 12 luminescent Arabic numerals profiled in red. The central seconds hand is also red, as are the Mantua pilot’s signature and the ‘TN’ initials in the white carapace on the opaque black central zone. The steel bezel is characterised by a steel circular insert treated in PVD with relief indices. The model is available in a black alligator strap and red stitching and a Charme steel bracelet and buckle personalised with the stylised tortoise mascot of Tazio Nuvolari. It is yet another high-tech, impeccably made timepiece that illustrates why the indisputable personality and independent spirit of this 127-year-old

Cesena, Rimini and then on to the beautiful Tuscan hills from Rimini to Arezzo, Siena

1934 Fiat 508 S Balilla Sport; winners for the third consecutive time in the event’s history.

Maison continues to appeal to sportsmen and the rest of us, alike.

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OBSESSION

R O YA L A R O M A

Royal Aroma SHEIKH MAJED AL-SABAH OF KUWAIT MERGES THE WORLDS OF FASHION AND FRAGRANCES THROUGH HIS HOMEGROWN PERFUME HOUSE, THE FRAGRANCE KITCHEN BY RACHEL INGRAM

In the Middle East in particular, fragrances are more than just scents. Many local families possess their

2006 in which Al-Sabah created a fragrance for the Tom Ford fragrance collection, titled Arabian Wood. “We selected a blend of mine

at home,” he says. “I’m not a chemist or someone who has been professionally trained as a fragrance maker. I’m just someone who

own signature blends as a symbol of their household, almost like a crest. It is this heritage that led Sheikh Majed Al-Sabah to found perfume house – The Fragrance Kitchen. Like many great success stories, Sheikh Majed Al-Sabah’s tale stems from his childhood. A nephew of the Emir of Kuwait, he was raised by his grandmother, who spent many years creating scents for the

and developed it with the Estée Lauder team,” he says. “The blend was in the top three of the bestselling Tom Ford fragrances in the world at the time, so I started asking myself if I was able to do this for Tom, why couldn’t I do something for myself.” A few years later he achieved his dream and launched The Fragrance Kitchen. What makes the brand so unique is the

trusts my nose.” Unlike many Arabian brands, you won’t find an oud in this collection. The brand uses few Middle Eastern ingredients, instead exploring ingredients from around the world. The Founder sources most of natural ingredients from Asian countries such as India, Laos and Cambodia. Musks, ambers and roses come from Bulgaria and Turkey,

family. The intricate art of making perfume was one of the greatest lessons she passed on to him. Sheikh Majed Al-Sabah says: “I acquired my knowledge of mixing and blending fragrances from watching my grandmother, who used to make her own blends. She was a great inspiration and taught me to develop my scent knowledge.” He started dabbling in perfume-making as a teenager, developing scents for his own use, but when he moved into the luxury fashion business in the early ’90s, everything changed. In 1992, the entrepreneur opened up a concept store called Villa Moda and, as a result, began travelling around the world and attending fashion shows. Wherever he visited, AlSabah was constantly asked what brand of clothing and what fragrance he was wearing. So great became the influx of questions that he began carrying perfume samples to give away to those who expressed an interest. He had originally intended to keep the scents to himself but the people he met on these travels encouraged him to retail them.

fact that the Founder creates every single scent. “The concept of how I make blends is like a kitchen. I’m like a chef picking some recipes from here and there and mixing them

while other ingredients are sourced during his wordly travels. When he has finished crafting a blend, Al-Sabah sends it to a laboratory in France where skilled perfumers recreate the scent, replicating the exact dosages and percentages of ingredients required to form the final product. The perfume house, which can be found at Bloomingdale’s, is evidently influenced by the Founder’s career history and personal sense of style. Fragrances are categorised into two main lines: Signature, which encompasses light everyday scents with simple packaging, and Exclusive, which includes perfumes that are heavier in terms of dosage and have a more elegant couture-style packaging. The brand also has a number of smaller lines including Tribute, a collection of scents paying homage to places around the world that have struck a cord with the Founder, such as Flower Crown for Budapest and Ambrosia for Udaipur. With inspiration coming from all corners of the globe, the brand truly is the perfect blend of East

This finally happened in 2012, following a collaboration with fashion icon Tom Ford in

meets West, offering scents for all, whether as a personal treat or a family emblem.

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R O YA L A R O M A

Exclusive Collection

My Collection

EXCLUSIVE COLLECTION This collection presents a host of special perfumes created by the founder that are bold in scent and in concept. Arabia, pictured, combines the strength of wood with the sweetness of roses. Top notes of rose create a beautiful juxtaposition with middle notes of sandalwood and amber. Base notes of oud, patchouli and musk provide the finishing touch.

MY COLLECTION My is a small sub-collection of perfumes personal to Founder Sheikh Majed Al-Sabah. The Finest, pictured, utilises some of the most luxurious ingredients available. Lilies and gardenia petals are presented on a bed of musk and wet moss, while a touch of bergamot and Persian lime provide brightness and laurel, green tea and soft woods add complexity.

SIGNATURE COLLECTION One of The Fragrance Kitchen’s principal collections, Signature comprises everyday scents for all occasions. Fragrance 1, pictured, is a sensual woody Oriental accord where spices illuminate dry amber accords. Top notes of bergamot, lemon and ginger give way to middle notes of lavender, powder and spicy cinnamon, while extracts of musk, Tonka bean and amber create the base.

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Signature Collection

Heritage Behind every brand of note there are stories of success and failure, trial and tribulation. However, it is these tales that define a brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity. Here, the narrative of a brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history is shared, from humble beginnings to present-day triumphs and every story on the way.

THROUGH THE AGES

To the moon and back From the first watch worn on the moon to the launch of world’s first chronograph designed specifically for use in space, the Omega Speedmaster has crossed borders, both physically and mechanically

When Neil Armstrong took his first step for mankind on the moon in 1969, it was one of the most momentous occasions in history. As well as being the first successful astronaut landing on the moon, it was the first time that the human race had successfully set foot onto our satellite’s soil. It was also the first time that an Earth-made watch travelled into space, strapped to the wrist of Armstrong’s mission partner, Buzz Aldrin. The gravity-defying timepiece was made by Omega – a Swiss watchmaking house that’s famous for crafting revolutionary time-telling devices that remain reliable and accurate in extreme conditions. From timepieces for race car drivers to wristwatches for military personnel and pilots, Omega has overcome the elements to ensure its models remain useable despite the many external factors that may impact certain adventurous activities. Diver’s watches are one of the brand’s specialities and Omega has designed a full range for underwater use, including the 1974 Omega Marine Chronometer; the only watch ever to be homologated as a Marine Chronometer.

with space exploration. The timepiece that Aldrin was wearing as he was rocketed into space via Apollo 11 before walking across the moon’s surface was an Omega Speedmaster. Following strenuous trials in the 1960s, the model beat other competitor’s watches from around the world to be named Nasa’s official watch of choice and has been used by Nasa astronauts ever since. The timepiece was, in fact, first used during the Gemini 4 mission of 1965, when astronaut Edward White completed America’s primary ‘spacewalk’, four years before the moon landing. The Speedmaster was chosen again for the first space shuttle programme in 1981 and, in 1992, the brand was given the opportunity to use Russian space station Mir as a laboratory to test the first wristwatch designed specifically for use in space, the Speedmaster Professional X-33. More recently, Omega has reaffirmed its commitment to space travel via special edition timepieces, such as the Speedmaster From the Moon to Mars and the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, in the hope that its timepieces will return to outer space. Signé explores the history of the Speedmaster collection and the

Looking from the depths of the ocean to the depths of the universe, the brand boasts strong links

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timepieces that have cemented Omega’s place in history forever.

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1 9 57 The legacy of the Omega Speedmaster begins with the introduction of the ‘Professional’ line of watches, which comprises the Seamaster 300, the Railmaster and the premier Speedmaster, the CK 2915. Initially designed for the likes of racing drivers, the first Speedmaster is powered by the brand’s legendary manual-wound calibre 321, features a symmetrical case design and boasts the world’s first tachymetric bezel placed outside the dial. It becomes an instant bestseller.

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1 9 59 The original Speedmaster model is revived in the form of the CK 2998, which features a few changes, for example new ‘Alpha’ hands and the use of black aluminium for the bezel. The timepiece is purchased by astronauts such as ‘Wally’ M Schirra who wears it during his Mercury-Atlas 8 (Sigma 7) mission, making it the first Omega Speedmaster to be worn in space.

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19 63 Omega creates a new Speedmaster model, ST 105.003. Responding to a request from NASA for wristwatches, Omega sends a number of the timepieces to the space agency where they are tested in strenuous conditions alongside models from other brands. The Speedmaster comes out on top so NASA procures one for each of its astronauts.

19 64 In order to offer additional protection to the chronograph’s pushers and its crown, Omega designs an asymmetric case whereby the right side is slightly enlarged. The first model to feature this new case is the ST 105.012 in 1964, which is evolved further for the launch of the ST 145.012 in 1967 with an improved method for attaching the pushers to the case. The latter model is worn during the last moon landing mission to date: Apollo 17 in 1972.

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19 68 Omega unveils another milestone in the Speedmaster’s history in the form of a new movement, the Omega calibre 861. Set into its latest model, ST 145.022, the movement is manual wound and features a number of design and technological advancements. The former movement, the calibre 321, is abandoned from this point and the calibre 861 and its succeeding versions, continues to power the Speedmaster Moonwatch to this day.

1 9 69 This year marks the birth of the second generation of Speedmaster timepieces and the first redesign of the classic Moonwatch case. The new model, the Speedmaster Mark II, is offered in a range of versions with varying dial designs. Its case, which is often referred to as the ‘Pilots Line’ case, features a barrel shape which has been enhanced for prolonged EVA-use on the lunar surface.

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19 63 The The Speedmaster Speedmaster 125 is unveiled in celebration celebration of Omega’s 125th anniversary its foundation since being founded in in 1848. The collector’s item, which is limited to 2,000 pieces, is special because it is powered by the calibre 1041, the world’s first automatic chronograph that was officially certified as a chronometer.

19 98 Omega takes one giant leap in watchmaking by creating the X-33, a hybrid chronograph developed with the input of pilots and astronauts. Named after a secret NASA mission, the timepiece represents an impressive achievement for the brand. The launch is televised from onboard Russian space station Mir after going through intricate testing there and the model continues to be worn by astronauts during shuttle missions and at Mir and the International Space Station.

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20 13 Omega combines the past and the future with the launch of the Speedmaster 57 Omega Co-Axial Chronograph, a timepiece that pays homage to the original Speedmaster while bringing it into the 21st century. It is powered by the first of Omega’s in-house Co-Axial calibres, the Co-Axial calibre 9300/9301, and features a column-wheel design and a silicon balance spring for outstanding reliability.

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20 13 Omega pays homage to the nine successful Apollo missions with the Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon timepiece, a black ceramic version of the Speedmaster Moonwatch which was worn by Apollo astronauts. The striking wristwatch is fitted with a Co-Axial calibre 9300/9301, features two sub-dials and is completed with sturdy yet decadent materials such as 18-carat white gold indexes, a black zirconium oxide dial and a coated nylon strap.

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BACK IN TIME

BACK IN TIME Louis Moinet is one of history’s most revered watchmakers. Admired by royals, artists and scholars alike, he made significant contributions to the field of horology throughout his lifetime, including the invention of the world’s first chronograph. In the present day, the house of Louis Moinet brings his greatest passions and skills back to life

When the first chronograph was created in 1816 it revolutionised the world of timekeeping.

Moinet became Breguet’s personal adviser. Moinet was so respected that he was also appointment President of the Chronometry

was his reputation that his clients included some of the most eminent figures in society of the time, including kings and political

The invention greatly enhanced the ability to record time with exceptional accuracy and led to the development of a new generation of timepieces, such as stopwatches. The inventor was Louis Moinet, one of history’s most important watchmakers. Moinet was born in 1768 in Bourges, France. He grew up in a farming family but was drawn to classical arts, including watchmaking, which he was introduced to as a student. At the age of 20, Moinet relocated to one of the arts capitals of the world, Rome, where he studied architecture, sculpture and painting, before learning the art of fine stone engraving in Florence. In 1795 he returned to France where he was appointed Professor of the Académie des Beaux-Arts, in the Louvre, Paris. While teaching, Moinet had the opportunity to reconnect with his childhood passion, horology, and studied the topic inside out. He travelled across Switzerland, meeting with famous watchmakers and collecting horological tools and instruments. During his travels he met a man who would change his life, Abraham-Louis Breguet,

Society of Paris. During the early 1800s, Moinet put his learning into practice and created extraordinary timepieces that pushed the boundaries of common horology. So great

leaders. One of his earliest and most famous pieces is Napoleon’s Clock, a magnificent amphora-shaped clock created for French military and political leader Napoleon Bonaparte in 1806. The clock boasts an eightday movement and moon phases as well as hours, minutes and dates and is decorated with an intricate carving of Bonaparte and his wife Josephine’s coronation, in which a mechanism places the imperial crown on their heads when the music box is activated. The historic clock is a fine example of the distinguished watchmaker’s creativity and talent, which led him to become one of the greatest horologists who has ever lived. Other names on Moinet’s list of devoted clients include Tsar Alexander I, King George IV of England, Marshal Murat, King of Naples and American presidents Thomas Jefferson and James Monroe. Timepieces commissioned for such esteemed people remain on display in major museums across the globe and leaders’ residences, including the White House, to this day. During his career Moinet became a

Founder of luxury watchmaking house Breguet. The pair formed a partnership and

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Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO of Louis Moinet

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master of mechanics, inventing concepts such as the compte-tierce, a 60th of a second

A clock created by Louis Moinet for Marshal Murat, King of Naples, in 1810

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BACK IN TIME

counter in the shape of a watch, and several unusual pocket watch calibres, as well as the world’s first chronograph. When he passed away in 1853, he left behind a legacy that has

‘mechanical art’, blending it with the exciting possibilities offered by today’s technology.” From a workshop located in Saint-Blaise, Switzerland, the independent brand’s artists

working oil derrick, which can be seen on the dial and is in constant motion, completing its cycle every 15 seconds. The universe is another evident influence

enriched the horological landscape beyond what he could have imagined. All was not lost, however, because Moinet left his many years of discoveries behind in a book, the Traité d’Horlogerie. It comprises detailed descriptions and diagrams of the finest watchmaking techniques and was studied by watchmaking experts for decades to come.

work to craft timepieces that reflect the qualities at the heart of the brand: uniqueness, creativity and exclusivity. Each piece boasts a strong identity, easily distinguishable by its ‘Côtes du Jura’ guilloche dials, ‘Gouttes de rosée’ hands, and distinctive cases with screwed bezels. Louis Moinet watchmakers go above and

and Louis Moinet boasts a number of beautifully crafted watches featuring pieces of meteorites on their dials. Astralis is arguably the most striking and features an innovative 24-hour planetarium, within which a fragment from the oldest known rock in the solar system dating back 4.6 billion years, the Sahara 955 meteorite, is planted.

“Horology is a science and a liberal art: You need to be a meticulous and scrupulous mechanic and to have sufficient knowledge of physics and geometry,” Moinet wrote. “One should invent solely for the needs of the art… a true artist cannot remain behind his times… it would be a mistake to think there is nothing left that deserves deeper study.” In recent years, a fellow watch enthusiast,

beyond when it comes to dial design. One signature feature is the use of extremely rare materials. The Jurassic Tourbillon contains fossilised dinosaur bone from a large herbivorous dinosaur found in North America that is believed to be 150 million years old. The Geograph

So unique are its creations that the

Jean-Marie Schaller, decided to take Moinet’s memory beyond the borders of a book and create a watchmaking brand in his name. Louis Moinet is dedicated to reviving the watchmaker’s legacy and continuing his work through the production of limited edition timepieces and bespoke masterpieces that stretches the limits of modern horology. Jean-Marie Schaller, CEO and Creative Director of Louis Moinet, is the natural choice to undertake such an appointment. He says: “Watchmaking has always been in my blood. Coming from the Jura Mountains, the world surrounding me revolved around one thing: horology. I grew up knowing that a watch is no ordinary object: It is a cultural testimony, a legacy inherited from a generation of craftsmen. In a watch, you see the brain of the engineer, the heart of the designer, the eye of the artist and the hand of the watchmaker. Indeed, the watch is an ‘objet d’art’ in harmony with the real values we harbour inside ourselves as human beings.” “The master watchmaker Louis Moinet was both an artist and a brilliant horologist. He

Rainforest timepiece utilises fossilised palm wood from a tree in the tropical rainforest in Malaysia that’s estimated to be 70 million years ago. Meanwhile, Treasures of the World is a collection of unique watches featuring stunning dials featuring pieces of polished precious stones, which have been created by Daniel Haas, a specialist in semi-precious stone craftsmanship. Other limited edition timepieces take inspiration from the elements, the modern world and even people. The current collection contains timepieces dedicated to racing drivers Nelson Piquet and Scott Dixon, plus highly creative pieces such as the Derrick Tourbillon inspired by oil mining. The latter

was one of the most influential watchmakers of all time. I am proud to revive his heritage of

timepiece is a world first and combines a tourbillon with a

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Louis Moinet’s book Traité d’Horlogerie

Louis Moinet headquarters in in Saint-Blaise, Switzerland

company has won a number of awards, including two from the prestigious Red Dot Awards for design. One winner, Geograph, is a dual time zone piece with hour, minute, second and date displays, inspired by the accomplishments of mankind around the world. The case features beautiful miniature engravings of key moments in history such as a hot-air balloon to depict the first human flight made by the Montgolfier brothers in 1783 and a ship to pay tribute to famous explorer James Cook. While the majority of Louis Moinet timepieces are crafted in the form of limitededition models, the brand also creates bespoke timepieces. The Extraordinary Pieces collection encompasses a number of highly unique time-telling devices. Following

Vernoscpe, a treasure trove-style structure inspired by science fiction that showcases four limited edition timepieces from Louis Moinet’s Jules Verne Instrument collection. The Time Explorator is a ‘time-travelling machine’, which takes users through historical milestones in horology and presents 12 fascinating limited edition collections. The collection also features innovations such as the Meteoris planetarium, which depicts the solar system in an exceptional fashion. The invention is showcased in four unique timepieces, Tourbillon Moon, Tourbillon Mars, Tourbillon Asteroid and Tourbillon Rosetta Stone, each of which contains a fragment of a rare meteorite. Just as Moinet’s original clientele included high-standing citizens from across

counts a range of modern-day celebrities in its realm of supporters, such as His Majesty King Fouad Farouk, the last king of Egypt, and the King of Malaysia, among others. Following Moinet’s passing, Monsieur Delmas, watchmaker and former Vice President of the Chronometry Society of Paris, said of him: “He sacrificed everything to art: his time, his fortune and his health. He spent most of his life creating, imbuing materials with a life of their own. He is undoubtedly one of the most capable watchmakers who lived in any time and in any nation.” Through the work of Jean-Marie Schaller and all those involved with the Louis Moinet brand in the present day, the watchmaker’s legacy will be continued for decades to come,

in the footsteps of master watchmaker Moinet, this includes inventions such as the

the globe, the contemporary Louis Moinet brand is just as well respected. The company

ensuring that his name and innovations will remain timeless.

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HERITAGE OF INNOVATION With London Collections: Men having taken place in January, Signé offers an insight into tailoring in the city and the Savile Row tailors who have been redefining men’s fashion over the past 30 years BY CAMERON BAILEY

In the early 1800s, Savile Row tailors Meyer & Mortimer met a very demanding client who eschewed the frock coat and breeches that had previously dominated menswear for a coat, waistcoat and close-fitting long trousers. That man was Beau Brummel. His order of these new clothes changed the way men dressed forever. The frock coat and breeches had been seen as the dress of the establishment but with these three basic forms, a new style of men’s attire was born. Since its creation, the suit has been in constant evolution. From the zoot suits of the jazz age to the Cartier boxy jackets worn by The Beatles, to the super-slim cut of Italian suits best loved by the Mods of the 1960s, there have always been innovators in men’s suits ready to rock the established order. In 1960s London, Savile Row was a street which was as much a part of the swinging ’60s as the music. As The Beatles set up their company Apple, tailors were making their mark on the city’s fashion scene. One particular tailor with a penchant for rock and roll, Tommy Nutter, was responsible for shaking things up. He created an alliance with fellow tailor Edward Sexton and created

dressing the stars; they famously dressed Mick and Bianca Jagger in matching white suits for their wedding. Nutter combined traditional tailoring with cutting-edge design that was instantly recognisable. Although after Nutter’s passing, tailoring slid backwards into a dark age for a while. The suit, as it was known then, was torn apart, only to be reconstructed in the 1980s by Italian designer Giorgio Armani. His deconstructed looser-fit suits became the defining look for a younger generation of men who didn’t want to be restricted by the buttoned-down look of Brooks Brothers or the traditionally stiff canvas-supported suit that English tailoring was reputed for. Armani’s suits featured regularly on glamorous crime show Miami Vice and films such as American Gigolo starring Richard Gere, launching Armani into the spotlight of popular culture. The Latin-influenced style found in Miami contrasted with the brash power-dressing of Wall Street with its bold double-breasted pinstripe suits and red braces. Armani possessed a unique understanding of the human body, having originally studied medicine at the University of Piacenza. He dropped out of

department store La Rinanscente and later for Cerruti before coming under the wing of architectural draftsman Sergio Galeotti, who later became his business partner. Rather than following the well-worn route of Italian tailoring, the pair created one of the first truly global lifestyle brands that placed menswear within the realm of fashion design. Instead of developing as a showman in the style of his contemporaries in fashion at the time, such as Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gautier, his success came from his signature flowing lines and softness. “My vision was clear. I believed in getting rid of the artifice of clothing. I believed in neutral colours,” he said, looking back on his early career. Armani was an inspiration to a new age of designers, most notably Englishman Ozwald Boateng. Inspired by a girlfriend in the art of cutting and sewing, Boateng swapped from studying computer science to design. He exhibited a collection at Paris Fashion Week in 1994 and off the back of its success was able to set up his first store on Vigo Street in London in 1994. However, it would be some time before his designs were accepted by the fashion elite. Mentored by tailoring maverick

Nutters, a tailor that became known for

university after his military service to work at

Tommy Nutter, Boaten is lauded for being

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Richard James and Sean Dixon

the youngest man to make it on ‘The Row’. “When I was started, I was 18 years old, so I was very young and working in a very established business,” Boateng said. “I had a very strong and unique point of view and, at that time, Savile Row was a very closed club. When I first started buying my fabrics, the merchants weren’t easy on me. I had to earn their respect.” For young entrepreneurs in the 1990s, owning an Ozwald Boateng suit was as much a badge of success as their first Rolex or Porsche. His signature was a slimfitting, long-line two-piece single-breasted suit, which often involved his revolutionary use of colour. After the recession and the darkness of the Grunge fashion era passed, Ozwald Boateng’s menswear became part of a new British confidence in fashion nicknamed ‘Cool Britannia’ that was taking the world by storm, gracing the shoulders of rock gods such as Liam Gallagher and the cast of Guy Ritche’s gangster film Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels; a movie credited with re-

Not only has Boateng been the subject of a documentary by Director Varon Bonicos who followed him for 12 years, Boateng has also directed a number of short creative films. In 2005 he was honoured with a 20-year retrospective event at the Victoria & Albert Museum, recognising him for his vibrant design philosophy and high standards of work. Despite working as Creative Director of Givenchy since 2003, Boateng’s heart remains in Savile Row. Clearly, he is an innovator who honours bespoke tailoring and highly values the traditions he grew up with. ”The fact that I am now in the old Anderson and Sheppard store means a lot to me,” he said. “Before I even opened my store on Vigo Street, I never dreamed that I would have my own flagship store in place of tailors that represent the cornerstone of British tailoring and Savile Row.” In the coming years, the suit began an evolution away from military style. It is not surprising that the man described

former Major of the 9th/12th Royal Lancers. Lutwyche began his career on Berwick Street in the heart of Soho. “Savile Row is the face of tailoring; Soho is the guts,” the tailor famously said. He engaged in what he described as a “reverse apprenticeship” where he hired two tailors and he would commute from the West End to The City on a scooter to measure and fit clients for suits. After six years of building his studio, the opportunity arose to buy the Chester Barrie tailoring factoring in Crewe Cheshire. After purchasing the factory, Lutwyche had to play detective to find and rehire the original staff and refit the machinery. The factory was renamed Cheshire Bespoke and currently makes goods for the Lutwyche brand and other leading tailoring and menswear houses. When Signé met Lutwyche at his Old Bond Street office, he was beaming with delight. Lutwyche ready-to-wear had launched on MrPorter.com the previous week as part of its permanent collection and

energising the British film industry. Fittingly, film is a passion close to the designer’s heart.

as “the most important figure in English tailoring” at the time was Tony Lutwyche, a

suits, selling at £4,900 (AED28,000), were flying out of the door. The designer sees this

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time economically but, as it is often said, smart men start businesses in a recession. “Richard and I were looking to do something in menswear and we had an opportunity to open a shop,” Dixon added. “My experience [then] was limited. Everyone had heard of Savile Row. We knew what Savile Row stood for and loved the heritage and the quality but we wanted to do something different and more design-led. Doing things different in design wasn’t enough though. We opened on Saturdays, had nice open windows and clients didn’t have to be recommended. We did both bespoke and ready-to-wear items. We think we were a catalyst. We attracted the younger, self-made guy who probably liked the idea of Savile Row but didn’t like the stuffiness.” In light of the menswear revolution, London Collections: Men (LC:M) has become the hub of men’s fashion. Launched in the summer of 2012, this event is an addition to the collection shows for spring/summer and autumn/winter. Chaired by Dylan Jones OBE, Editor of GQ, the LCM focuses on British brands, bringing together the most creative minds and emerging talents with an aim to showcase the breadth of British fashion talent

as a positive move for the brand, but adds: “Online service is different from coming into the shop and touching and feeling the quality. On the street, we share the same habitat as Loro Piana, Brioni and Culcinelli but not everyone walks these streets.” Despite making a move into the ready-towear field, bespoke design is at the heart of what the company does. Lutwyche says: “I am confident that we have the best suits in the world. We are the only brand today taking the British silhouette into the world. We spent the last eight years softening the canvas and making it lighter so you barely feel it.” Lutwyche may be one of the smaller players around Savile Row but he has noticed the extent of his company’s influence,

Christopher Kane and Victoria Beckham. This is proof that whatever happens at the high-end does filter through into fashion. “We brought the double-breasted suit back at Pitti Uomo 2008,” Lutwyche boasts. The doublebreasted suit has been growing in popularity ever since. “Our audience is more interested in elegance than fashion. Lutwyche is for people who understand the story of the product and buy the best quality.” Another tailor with a rich history is Richard James. Launching in 1992, Richard James was the first tailor to become a true lifestyle brand. Co-Founder Sean Dixon reflects: “It was a very different street back then. At that time on Savile Row the clientele was old and younger men were buying designer

to the world, encompassing everything from global menswear brands to Savile Row tailors. One of the many brands that are being helped by the event is Richard James. Dixon says: “People see us more as a lifestyle brand. The LCM shows have given us more leverage over the way stores treat us. We are treated as a more rounded offering in places such as Harrods.” The core, though, is the experience of visiting a Richard James’ shop, particularly its Clifford Street store just off Savile Row. “For bespoke clothes, you have to come to ground zero. We equate it to a spa treatment for men. The guys are here to look after you and help. Whatever it is, we want it to be an enjoyable experience.” With modern projects like London Collections: Men taking such an interest in Savile Row tailors, it seems that the street, and those who have made a home in it, increasingly have a place in the contemporary fashion world. Keeping one foot in the heritage of tailoring, these tailors bring something unique to the industry, while ensuring that the name ‘Savile Row’

having worked on the first Purple label for Ralph Lauren and with designers such as

suits. It had never lost its quality but it had lost is mojo.” The early 1990s were a dark

is forever respected for what it is: exclusive handcrafted quality.

Tony Lutwyche

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La Dolce Vita A guide to the world’s highest standards of living, covering all aspects of a lifestyle that can be maintained by a lucky few. Whether it’s a life-changing trip to one of world’s natural wonders or an unforgettable gastronomic indulgence, the exclusivity of the experience is guaranteed.

L A D O L C E V I TA

ALL IN THE BALANCE

ALL IN THE

BALANCE The fast pace of modern-day life means that fitness and wellness can often slip down a mounting list of priorities. Nerio Alessandri, Founder and President of Technogym, offers expert tips on how to maintain a healthy lifestyle whether at home or away

With deadlines at work, family commitments at home and

lower than the ideal figure. Moving is key, whether it is playing sports, going to the gym,

How do you maintain wellness through every aspect of life?

trips abroad, wellness is often put on the back burner. Modern-day life means that taking time to focus on yourself, whether for exercise or relaxation, can often be viewed as less important or even selfish. However, it is important to look beyond mounting ‘to-do’ lists and make wellness a priority. Nerio Alessandri, Founder and President of Technogym, is an authority on health and fitness and believes that everybody can make wellness a part of everyday life with a few changes to their lifestyle; it’s all about balance. Here, he talks to Signé about how to create a healthy equilibrium in life and why this is so important.

walking the dog, doing the shopping, looking after children or even using a wellness ball instead of an office chair. Every little thing helps when it comes to improving your everyday lifestyle.

Why is more exercise a good thing? Studies show that it is not just important to exercise more, it’s also vital to reduce the time you spend sitting down in order to reduce your risk of chronic illnesses. We were born to move. Our ancestors walked and ran an average of 30 kilometres every day to hunt and search for food for the community; that equates to more than half a marathon each

What are the main impacts of exercise on a person’s mind? Physical exercise is a powerful drug, as acknowledged by Exercise is Medicine, a global movement set up by doctors and exercise referral experts that aims to have exercise recognised as a form of medicine. Physical exercise is often the first step towards what we call the ‘virtuous circle of wellness’. To briefly explain, physical fitness helps us to feel better psychologically and mentally by producing ‘pleasure’ hormones and control neurotransmitters that help us to feel better and reinforce our motivation to keep fit. Scientific studies suggest that physical activity can influence many psychological variables and support the role of physical activity in enhancing mood states, helping also to reduce physical reactions

Remember that wellness is the balance between the body, mind and spirit. It is achieved through the balance of regular physical exercise, a healthy diet and a positive mental attitude. Improving our physical, psychological and mental condition means greater vitality, more emotional security and better efficiency, both at work and in interpersonal relationships. A successful professional and private life leads to higher self-esteem, gratification and fulfilment, and this in turn provides the ideal conditions to physical and psychological wellness. One tip is to harness technology to track your progress. The advent of ever-new digital technologies has given rise to the ‘quantified self’: the desire of people to acquire and receive data on all aspects of their everyday life. This is no different with wellness, for without access to your personal data at your fingertips, how can you measure your progress and set new goals for yourself? People’s lifestyles are changing and they want to stay connected to their world of personal content and data wherever and

day. Today our average movement equates to just one kilometre each day, which is much

to psychosocial stressors and enhance recovery from stress symptoms.

whenever they want. Nowadays, it is possible to have access to all the wellness tools you

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Nerio Alessandri explains that a few simple changes to daily routines can change anyone’s life for the better

need whether you’re at work, at home, on the move, in the gym, outdoors or on holiday. Thanks to modern technology, such as Technogym’s Wellness on the Go system that links machines with apps via cloud technology, wellness is now truly mobile, and this development is something worth taking advantage of to achieve your personal wellness goals more quickly.

Italy, the T-Wellness restaurant only serves balanced meals that are cooked fresh every day from organic local produce.

impacts your company’s bottom lines in a real way and contributes to the reduction of stress in your own role.

What should we be eating every day? You are what you eat. Take inspiration from Italian cuisine, for example. Italians tend to choose seasonable fruits and vegetables and keep the right balance between proteins,

Why should wellness always be made a prioriy in the workplace? Wellness represents a concrete and substantial social opportunity for governments to reduce health service costs, for companies to grow productivity, and for communities to be healthier and happier. Wellness at work is a key asset for companies. A corporate wellness programme represents a long-term investment in a more positive, creative and productive workforce

Can you offer any tips for sticking to a routine while travelling? Be fully committed to your wellness routine and plan it in even on business trips or during vacations. If you travel often, try to have a nationwide or global gym membership so that you can train while abroad or select a hotel with a well-equipped gym. If you’re a Technogym member, remember to wear your mywellness key and log in to your mywellness account on each Technogym machine before

carbohydrates and dairies. To demonstrate this, Technogym’s headquarters in Cesena,

and builds your organisation’s positive links with the local community. This, ultimately,

working out in order to automatically track your workout sessions even while abroad.

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STAY IN STYLE HOTEL In a city such as Dubai where the very mention of its name evokes a notion of luxury and extravagance, it can be difficult to deliver something truly exceptional. Bringing the five-star values of the acclaimed Four Seasons brand to the UAE for the first time, the new Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach aims to usher in something different. Situated directly on a 270-metre natural beach, with 237 unique guest rooms, 10 tempting dining and lounge outlets and a world-class spa, the hotel is an all-encompassing home of luxury. Whether checking in for a holiday or visiting for a meal, visitors can enjoy top-quality facilities and personalised services in a contemporary Arabian-inspired space that’s both welcoming and sophisticated.

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IT TAKES TWO R E S TAU R A N T One of Dubai’s most popular fine-dining steakhouses, The Rib Room, has opened a second outlet at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray. The new venue reflects the original restaurant in London with regards to decor and sophisticated architecture, with the addition of an outdoor terrace boasting beautiful views, a copper-topped bar and private dining rooms for those seeking a more exclusive dining experience. Executive Chef Neil Foster heads up the kitchen. His menu presents the best of British tradition with a contemporary twist and includes a great selection of top-quality steaks and meat cuts from around the world alongside special dishes straight from the UK such as Loch Fyne Oysters. While there are vegetarian options, this is certainly a restaurant aimed at carnivores.

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A FRESH START BOUTIQUE Quintessential British fashion brand Paul Smith has reopened the doors to its Mall of Emirates’ boutique, but it is not as customers remembered it. The store has not only relocated within the mall to a larger space in the Fashion Zone, it has been completely renovated in terms of design, in line with iconic new openings in Luxembourg, Hamburg, Paris, London, Korea and Beijing. The freedom of the greater space means that more collections can be displayed so guests can now enjoy browsing wide selections of menswear, womenswear and children’s clothing. This month, shoppers will also be able to lay their eyes on a unique centrepiece in the mall’s dome, designed by Sir Paul Smith himself to celebrate the boutique’s opening.

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