Signe - Edition 37 by Signé

AED 30 KWD 2.5 QAR 30

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BOLD ELEGANCE

THE PANER AI SPECIAL EDITIONS DESIGNED BY MS DHONI

SUPPORTING INNOVATORS THE ROLEX AWARDS FOR ENTERPRISE

A FAMILY OF FOUR THE MERCEDES-AMG GT 4-DOOR COUPÉ FAMILY

RARE SOUND

THE BANG & OLUFSEN CONTRAST COLLECTION

RALPH LAUREN

The Unusual Tale of the Fashion Icon

Some watches tell time. Some tell a story

Second time zone driven by a single self-winding movement Silicon balance spring and pallet horns Double barrel, 18K red gold rotor and case Ivory Grand Feu enamel dial

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Grande Seconde Dual Time Ivory Enamel

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COMING FULL CIRCLE

The unusual story of fashion designer Dapper Dan of Harlem

UTILITARIAN CHIC

42 NATURAL MATTERS

Angela Turovskaya’s Balmessence oﬀers ethically sourced beauty products and fragrances

LATEST

Our top product pick is the Cole Haan Zerøgrand 48HR Backpack

Editor’s selection of fragrances for the season

FRAGRANCE FILE

BESPOKE MATTERS

A review of Ermenegildo Zegna’s SpringSummer 2020 Collection

We talk to Edward Sexton, the talent behind the fabled tailoring at Nutters of Savile Row, and the current eponymous bespoke tailoring establishment at Knightsbridge

HERITAGE OF DISRUPTION

Decoding Balenciaga’s Lyst index ranking

RINGS OF POETRY

Trilobe; a French start-up presented its first watch collection, ‘Only Watch’ and a bespoke variant last year

NEW OLD-SCHOOL LUXURY

The Unusual Tale of Ralph Lauren

Stay on trend with the best sneakers to own this season

Richard Mille’s RM 33-02 bridges two presumed opposites, lifestyle and sports

Lyocell’s eco-friendly credentials combined with its versatility have made it grow in prominence in the recent times

A brief look at some of the sustainable alternatives to traditional fibres used in the Fashion Industry

The Rolex Awards for Enterprise has supported innovation for the past 43 years

THE STYLE EDIT

Fashion-forward buys, picked by Signé for you

BOLD ELEGANCE

Introducing Panerai’s two new Luminor watches designed by MS Dhoni

Introducing CCCXXXIII, a fresh Beverly Hills-based luxury brand

REIMAGINING A NICHE

SNEAKER PICKS

TIMELESS STYLE

LYOCELL

SUPPORTING INNOVATORS

VEGAN-FIBRES

TOURBILLON G-SENSOR RM 36-01 SEBASTIEN LOEB

VIRTUAL HEALTHCARE

Dr Sara Saeed’s Sehat Kahani uses technology to overcome healthcare constraints in Pakistan

PLANNING A PARADISE

Signé speaks with Darren Gibson, CEO of Montenegro’s Luštica Development by the Orascom Group

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The latest variants of Ram’s flagship pickups are aimed at the luxury market

ShuiQi Spa at Atlantis is a haven of relaxation and well-being

We bring you a selection of our favourite musthave possessions

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Meet the Mercedes-AMG GT 4-Door Coupé Family

The Spa at Mandarin Oriental Jumeira brings the best of the brand’s spa treatments to Dubai, plus two local exclusives

A brief review of Bang & Olufsen’s new and limited Contrast Collection

A NEW KIND OF LUXURY

A FAMILY OF FOUR

A HOLISTIC FORMULA

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

RARE SOUND

NEW BEGINNINGS

The first SUV by Aston Martin, the DBX, is set to hit the roads this year, in the region and the world

A GROWING PASSION

An exclusive interview with Chef Michael Mina, the founder of the Mina Group

PERFORMANCE UPGRADE

Porsche adds the GTS versions to the Boxster and Cayman line-up

ABSTRACT ARABIA

The Barjeel Art Foundation in Sharjah and New York University’s Grey Art Gallery present “Taking Shape: Abstraction from the Arab World, 1950s–1980s”

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ALL-INCLUSIVE RETREAT

AN ESSENCE OF ARABIA

A review of the Rixos Bab Al Bahar located at the base of Ras Al Khaimah’s man-made Marjan Island

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CAVIAR TREATS

CHIC GREEN IN PHILIPPINES

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Bull & Bear at the Waldorf Astoria, DIFC, serves some classics reinterpreted

We explore the latest releases from Gentle Monster’s SS’2020 Collection

The Beluga restaurant is all about Caviar, the very best kind

El Nido Resort’s Pangulasian Island retreat is designed to be a holistic eco-luxury resort

BLACK AND METAL SHADES

RESURRECTING A CLASSIC

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ALPINE EAGLE With its pure and sophisticated lines, Alpine Eagle offers a contemporary reinterpretation of one of our iconic creations. Its 41 mm case houses an automatic, chronometer-certified movement, the Chopard 01.01-C. Forged in Lucent Steel A223, an exclusive ultra-resistant metal resulting from four years of research and development, this exceptional timepiece, proudly developed and handcrafted by our artisans, showcases the full range of watchmaking skills cultivated within our Manufacture.

FA S H I O N • C O M I N G F U L L C I R C L E

COMING FULL CIRCLE The unusual story of fashion designer Dapper Dan of Harlem

Dapper is an adjective meaning neatly dressed, very stylish in appearance. Dapper Dan is a 75-year-old fashion designer hailing from Harlem, New York. Born into poverty, he is a confessed shoplifter and street hustler. A self-taught designer, he owned a boutique in Harlem between 1982 and 1992. He is credited with introducing technical innovation, high-end materials and European high-fashion tailoring to streetwear, the foundation of today’s luxury streetwear concept. He was found guilty of intellectual property theft following complaints by some of the biggest names in fashion and was forced to underground. Yet this year, Dapper Dan has been included in the BoF 500, a list of the most influential fashion designers in the world. Anna Wintour, editor-inchief of Vogue and artistic director for

Condé Nast, not only invited Dapper Dan to his first Met Gala this year but reserved an entire table for him. Six influential celebrities wore his custom designs at the event. If there was ever a rags-to-riches story, this is it; although it has been three-fourths of a century in the making. The African American designer known as Dapper Dan was born Daniel Day in 1944 to an impoverished family with six other children. He often recalls seeing horses and buggies in Harlem as a child to give a sense of his age. To supplement his family’s meagre means, he indulged in any activity to “make a buck,” including scavenging, stealing food and clothes, dealing in drugs and gambling. By the age of thirteen, he had become a proficient gambler, which not only earned Dapper his street name because of his dress sense, but it also earned him

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enough money to get off the streets. He wanted to start a business. Since he liked clothes and had a keen sense of the trends on the streets of New York, and knew most of the moneyed men in Harlem, he decided he would make customised clothes and accessories and market it to them. Initially, he sold his merchandise from the trunk of his car. As time passed, he earned a reputation for making high-quality clothes that captured the street fashion sense of the time. He opened Dapper Dan’s Boutique in 1982 and sought to procure his highend materials from wholesalers, but he soon realised that they were not very welcoming towards a black man from the streets of Harlem. As he had done many times in the past, Dapper turned an obstacle into an opportunity. He turned his attention to fur, a very popular material that few

Fashion Designer Dapper Dan

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The Dapper Dan Harlem atelier studio

Photo: Courtesy of Gucci 10

The Dapper Dan Harlem atelier studio Courtesy of Gucci SIGNÉ • EDITION 37

The Dapper Dan Harlem atelier studio

on the streets knew anything about. The tactic paid rich dividends. He then taught himself textile printing. He even concocted a compound for printing on leather, which resulted in a high-quality and long-lasting finish. The chemical was a closely guarded, and highly sought-after secret, that was eventually given away by his brother-in-law. By the mid-1980s, Dapper had notorious drug dealers like Alpo Martinez and boxers Mike Tyson and Floyd Mayweather Junior as his regulars. He was also a favourite among some of the biggest names in rapmusic - LL Cool J, Eric B. and Rakim, Salt-N-Pepa, Bobby Brown, and Big Daddy Kane, to name a few. One of his trademark innovations was using high-fashion logos like Gucci, Fendi, Chanel, and Louis Vuitton illegally and prominently in his designs. He remains unapologetic to this day. He does not

consider his designs as ‘knock-offs’, but as ‘knock-ups’ because his designs, he argues, were all original ideas. He used fashion logos because they signified social status and his clients demanded them, but the brands themselves were not catering to the demographic group his clients belonged to. As rap-music was becoming mainstream, Dapper’s designs were appearing in widely watched music videos and movies. This drew the attention of the fashion brands whose logos were being used and led to a string of litigations. Eventually, Dapper was forced to close his boutique and go underground, selling his wares from discreet locations. In 2017, Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, presented a furlined, balloon-sleeve bomber jacket that closely resembled the one Dapper had made for the Olympic athlete Diane Dixon in 1989. Dixon posted images

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of the two jackets and demanded that Dapper get credit for it, which set off a social media storm. It has now come to light that Michele created the jacket with the intention of getting Dapper’s attention as the brand was planning to offer Dapper a collaboration deal. It turns out, one of the brands that had caused his demise for illegally using its logo, had been planning to revive him and his brand. Later that year Gucci formally announced the collaboration, with a line of men’s wear. In 2018, the two launched Dapper Dan of Harlem, the first atelier and luxury fashion store to open in the neighbourhood. Last year, his memoir titled Dapper Dan: Made in Harlem was launched, and a film based on it is in the works. The story of Dapper Dan is not just a very long rags to riches story, but also one of coming full circle, a very bizarre one at that.

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UTILITARIAN CHIC The Ermenegildo Zegna Spring-Summer 2020 collection employs upcycling to create a Utilitarian aesthetic “It is our duty as denizens of this world to live responsibly,” says Zegna’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori. “I want to do it using the creative means I have at my disposal, which extend from the materiality of fabricmaking to the exquisite technicality of tailoring to the highly communicative aspect of show-making... we do not need to create the new from scratch, but we can reuse and reinvent the existing, getting progressive fabrics out of discarded ones, translating traditional techniques into innovative lifetime tailoring.” Sartori’s approach to sustainability is embodied in the #UseTheExisting, which accompanies Zegna’s SpringSummer 2020 collection. As an example, the “Achill” suit is entirely made with wool remnants from Zegna’s Achill farm, discarded during the process of suit making and then remixed and rewoven to create something new. An industrial sensibility is noticeable this season as there is a mix of mineral hues - cement, steel, carbon and matt black – which mingle with earthy tones - brass, rust, red blaze, sand, matt gold, aqua, leaf green, teal and oxidised copper. Macro chiné motifs have a painterly feel; mineral dyes add depth to denim. The silhouette is neat: boxy blousons, voluminous coats, sleek three-button blazers and slim one-button jackets with 3D patch pockets are paired with lean yet soft trousers or fuller ones. Generous pockets and tailored details grace the sportier items as well as tailored ones, suggesting a crossing of boundaries. The suits are pragmatic, composed of blousons, shirts or polo-shirts worn with matching trousers. Knits are firm yet extremely light thanks to fabrics such as wools and technical silks. They also feature flattened crinkles, graphic photoprints and stripe patterns. The accessories comply with the pragmatic mood of the collection. There are boldsoled printed boots or derbies; signature Claudio sneakers; wearable notebooks and pouches in small geometric shapes. To complement the utilitarian aesthetic of the collection and to emphasise the #UseTheExisting philosophy, the collection was unveiled on the opening night of the Milan men’s shows at a sprawling industrial ruin on the outskirts of Milan. This venue will soon be renewed as a hub for health and science, along with green spaces and residential areas.

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Ermenegildo Zegna Spring-Summer 2020 Collection SIGNÉ • EDITION 37

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Ermenegildo Zegna Spring-Summer 2020 Collection SIGNÉ • EDITION 37

FA S H I O N • H E R I TA G E O F D I S R U P T I O N

HERITAGE OF DISRUPTION Balenciaga has consistently performed well on the Lyst index, in defiance of its size

The Lyst Index, by the global fashion search platform Lyst, is a quarterly ranking of fashion’s hottest brands and products based on the online shopping behaviour of more than 9 million shoppers across 12,000 brands and stores online. In the two years since The Lyst Index has been around, three brands have appeared every quarter: Balenciaga, Gucci, and Vetements; with Balenciaga and Gucci consistently placing among the top three brands. While Gucci, a wellknown brand that generates revenues in excess of US $4 billion, being consistently at the top may not come as a surprise to many. Balenciaga’s consistency at the top end of the Lyst Index, however, invites closer scrutiny. Balenciaga has a sterling heritage, although a fractured one. It begins in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1917 when a self-taught designer, Cristóbal Balenciaga, opened his first couture boutique. The Spanish Civil War forced him to relocate to Paris’ Avenue George V in 1937. In no time, he was the toast of Paris. He was lauded by critics and society’s A-listers alike for his revolutionary designs, innovative

techniques and his uncompromising commitment to perfection. Parisian couturiers imitated him. Names such as Oscar de la Renta, Andre Courreges, Emanuel Ungaro and Hubert de Givenchy were among his protégés. A nonconformist to the core, he was an irritant to Paris’ rigid fashion hierarchy. After three decades of pushing the envelope, Cristóbal closed his fashion house in 1968 and died in 1972, aged 77. Jacques Bogart SA acquired the rights to Balenciaga in 1986. The true revival of the brand, however, is credited to the five-year reign of the recently departed Dutch designer Josephus Thimister, who joined in 1992. He was succeeded, in 1997, by his assistant Nicolas Ghesquière, the current creative director at Louis Vuitton. It was during Ghesquière’s 15year tenure that the Gucci Group (now under Kering) acquired Balenciaga in 2001. After the short and indifferent tenure of Alexander Wang, the current Creative Director Demna Gvasalia was presented to the world in 2015. Although there are some similarities in the way Gucci and its younger

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sibling Balenciaga operate, there are also some glaring differences. While Gucci relies on a foundation of bestseller staples - the fur-lined horse-bit loafers or the double-G belt, for example - Balenciaga is all about freshness. No doubt it has examples of bestsellers in its ranks – Triple-S, Speed sneakers, the Hourglass bag or the “Bernie” sweatshirt, for example – but Gvasalia does not want a product to linger beyond three years. Gucci evolved as a brand to adopt streetwear aesthetics and socialmedia-based marketing strategy under the helm of creative director, Alessandro Michele. Balenciaga, under Gvasalia, was always going to be “street-smart” with mid-season offerings, collaborations and designs that generate social-media buzz. An example of the latter is the US $1,290 “T-shirt shirt” - introduced in the Fall 2018 collection. It is a cotton T-shirt twinned to a cotton button-up shirt such that either can be worn with the other draped on the front or back. Polarised opinions on the shirt went viral on social media platforms, which was then picked up by mainstream

Demna Gvasalia, Creative Director, Balenciaga

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Balenciaga Resort 2020 Collection (Photo: Courtesy of Balenciaga) 18

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media, thus generating free publicity for the brand. Another aspect that sets Balenciaga apart from other luxury brands is its relationship with young artists and their art scene; where associations with luxury brands often lead to being branded a “sell-out.” Painter Eliza is effectively the house muse, artists are among the models on its catwalks, the brand’s social media posts feature collaborations, both formal and informal, and artists are seen wearing the brand. Once again, Gvasalia gets credit for this thanks to a creative mindset that resonates with them. Gvasalia, a Georgian and a graduate at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts, began his career at Maison Martin Margiela, followed by Louis Vuitton. In 2014, Gvasalia, along with seven other designers, founded the ‘design collective’ Vetements to reinject some “fun” into fashion. Gvasalia is the head designer and its public face. The collective, known for its fusing of couture and streetwear sensibilities while challenging conventions, was awarded LVMH’s Young Fashion Designer Prize after just three years.

Gvasalia did not relinquish his design responsibilities at Vetements until last September. Vetements has been in the top-ten of the Lyst every quarter except one. In 2017, Gvasalia was presented CFDA’s International Award in recognition of his work at Vetements and Balenciaga. The following year, he was awarded Accessories Designer of the Year at the Fashion Awards 2018. For all his creativity, both in terms of designs and building a brand identity, Balenciaga saw moderate growth. That was until Cédric Charbit, a former head of merchandising at Saint Laurent and a long-time Kering man, came on board at the end of 2016. The brand’s revenues were reportedly hovering around the US $400 million mark and, according to Charbit, there was a lack of coordination between the creative and operational side of the business. He began with an aggressive expansion of the retail network, from 110 stores to 180 in three years. He orchestrated a healthy 25 to 30 percent revenue generation through wholesale, mostly via exclusive collaborations. He focused on men’s ready-to-wear, shoes and luggage, which now contributes

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more than 30 percent of the business, particularly in the fast-growing Asia region. Charbit’s growth strategy has not come at the expense of Gvasalia’s creativity and social media acumen, but rather, by utilising them as an integral part of it. According to the brand, its Instagram following has crossed 10 million, around 60 percent of its customers are Millennials who generate around 70 percent of the sales. It has posted some of the fastest growth rates within the Kering Group. While Gvasalia-Charbit partnership has returned positive dividends, it also harbours Balenciaga’s greatest weakness. While Balenciaga has attracted a niche set of customers, it is still heavily reliant on Gvasalia’s creativity. It does not have commercial staples that it can reinterpret season after season because Gvasalia will not permit it. The brand still has to establish itself independent of its creative source. On the positive, Gvasalia has now fully committed himself to the brand, and if the Gvasalia-Charbit continues in the same vein, Balenciaga may soon be a name to be reckoned with, just as it was in its previous incarnation.

THE STYLE EDIT

EDITOR’S PICKS

Sunglasses, McQ

Man Pouch, BOSS

Parka, Berluti

Slipper, Dunhill

Cardigan, Brunello Cucinelli

Leather Belt, MCM

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Sunglasses, Saint Laurent

Sweatshirt, Les Benjamins

Jacket, MCM

Shopper Bag, Dolce&Gabbana

Pant, Brunello Cucinelli

Scarf, Berluti

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TIMELESS STYLE The recently released ‘Very Ralph’ documentary has brought the spotlight back on the fashion Icon, Ralph Lauren

“I never thought I was in the fashion business. If someone said: are you a fashion designer? [I would reply:] no, I hate fashion,” says the 80-year-old man considered by some to be the closest thing to being the national designer of the US. The quote is from the recently released HBO documentary film: ‘Very Ralph,’ the first biographical portrait of the American fashion icon Ralph Lauren. In the film, produced and directed and by multi-awardwinning documentarian Susan Lacy, Ralph speaks candidly while looking back at his five decades of success and growth in the fashion industry, his personal life, the criticisms he has faced and the numerous innovations he has introduced. The film also features the opinions of his family members, friends, colleagues and other acquaintances that include the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Robin Givhan, Jason Wu, Naomi Campbell and Calvin Klein, to name a few. The Ralph Lauren story began on October 14, 1939, when Ralph Lifshitz was born in The Bronx borough of New York City to Frieda and Frank Lifshitz, an artist and house painter. One of four children, Ralph and his brother Jerry changed their last name to Lauren at the age of 16. After graduating from High School in 1957, he enrolled in Baruch College’s night school to study business while working as a salesman by day, but dropped out of school after two years. Ralph joined the US Army in 1962 and served for two years. In 1964, Ralph married Ricky Anne Loew-Beer six months after the two met. According to Ralph, it was her working-class, down-to-earth sensibilities combined with her classy sense of style that attracted him to her. The two have been together ever since. She is an accomplished author, artist and photographer. She shares in many of the philanthropic commitments of Ralph, and is one in her own right. She is also Ralph’s great muse and inspiration. They have three children: Andrew Lauren (1969), David Lauren (1971), and Dylan Lauren (1974). Following his marriage, Ralph began to work as a salesman for the tie manufacturer Beau Brummell. By 1967, he had

convinced the company’s president to let him start his own line of ties under the Polo brand. His designs, inspired by European style, featured a wider cut, were handmade and used high-quality, flamboyantly coloured fabrics. When some of his designs were rejected, Ralph realised that he had to be independent to fully unleash his creativity. So, with a US $30,000 loan from an acquaintance, he established a small company in 1967 to sell high-quality, handmade neckties marketed under the Polo brand. His “shop” consisted of “a single drawer” within a showroom inside the Empire State Building with Ralph making all the deliveries himself. By the end of the year, his ties were being stocked by high-end retailers such as Paul Stuart, Neiman Marcus, and Bloomingdale’s. The following year, Ralph added menswear to his line-up which included a classically tailored cotton-madras suit, which earned him his first Coty Award in 1970 - a precursor to today’s CFDAs. This award was a great bargaining chip for Ralph as he was able to demand that Bloomingdale’s permit an exclusive in-store boutique for his brand, an unheard-of concept at that time. Ralph’s designs were inspired by the outdoors style of the American East-Coast elite, in particular, the styles found on the campuses of the Ivy League colleges. “To design without fashion in mind, to design something legendary that has a sense of timelessness and that still excites us, is what I aspire,” said Ralph about his design philosophy. “It’s never about one piece. It’s about an entire spirit, a way of living.” Ralph has stayed true to this counter-intuitive approach to fashion throughout his career, and it has proven to be a winning formula. When Ralph’s wife - a petite, slim woman – expressed her frustration at not being able to find good quality clothes in her size or style, Ralph sensed a gap in the womenswear market. In 1971, Ralph launched a collection of women’s suits that used classic men’s tailoring techniques. These suits were also the first to feature the Polo emblem embroidered on the cuffs. That year

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Ralph Lauren with wife Ricky Lauren

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Ralph Lauren and Ricky Lauren with Monica Bellucci and Laetitia Casta at the Very Ralph Premiere at Hotel Marcel Dassault in Paris

also witnessed the opening of the brand’s first boutique in Beverly Hills. In 1972, came Ralph’s signature product: the mesh Polo Shirt, adopted by polo players because of their comfort and durability. Offered in a choice of 24 colours, Ralph turned it into a casual-wear fashion icon of North America; loved by the elite and the aspirational class in equal measure. In ‘Very Ralph,’ Kanye West gives us a sense of the versatility and the impact of the shirt. “My magician’s cloak,” he says, “was the Polo shirt. It said that I could travel from the [bluecollar] south side of Chicago to the beaches of Montauk, [the affluent eastern end of Long Island].”

In 1974, the Ralph Lauren brand became enshrined in popular culture as the clothes designed by Ralph were worn by the male actors in the film The Great Gatsby. Ralph’s sense of aesthetic was a perfect fit to recreate, in a fashion sense, the elegant society of author F. Scott Fitzgerald. Ralph also designed the clothes worn by Woody Allen and Diane Keaton in the cult classic Annie Hall, released in 1977. Ralph’s use of menswear tailoring for Keaton’s wardrobe would set off a trend in chic womenswear in the following years. In 1978, the first Ralph Lauren fragrances - Lauren for women and Polo for men - were launched at Bloomingdale’s;

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Ralph Lauren and Ricky Lauren with Cate Blanchett and Claire Foy at the Very Ralph Premiere at the Royal Academy in London

the first time a designer had introduced men’s and women’s fragrances simultaneously. By the end of the 1970s, the Ralph Lauren brand had been well established and, more importantly, distinguished by its American aesthetics. The following three decades witnessed massive expansion, both in terms of product range and in the number of retail outlets - first within the US and then internationally. Ralph became the first fashion designer to present an extensive collection of home accessories when he launched the Ralph Lauren Home brand in 1983. Over the years, the brand has established itself as the benchmark for premium American-inspired decor. “Quality improves with age and

use. That’s the underlying principle for my collections for the home,” he once said. To achieve the quality Ralph desired, the Home collection was built on three pillars. First, every piece has a distinct style that draws inspiration from American culture and history, such as Art Deco, equestrian culture or luxury automobiles. Secondly, the finest materials - mahogany, burl wood, polished silver, soft hair-on-hide, cashmere, crystal or alligator-embossed leather – form the basis of any piece. The design and materials are then brought to life using traditional craftsmanship, mostly by hand. The RL Home product range now includes furniture, bed and bath linens, china, crystal, silverware, decorative accessories,

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The Ralph Lauren Purple Label Fall 2020 Collection

lighting, fabrics, wallcovering, and floorcovering. Ralph Lauren Paint was launched in 1995 to complement the Home collection and now offers over 400 palettes. The 1980s also witnessed the launch of a wide range of fashion accessories, a line featuring native American patterns, a jeans line, a children’s line and the iconic knitwear featuring the American flag. In 1981, with the opening of the first freestanding store in London, the brand officially commenced its international expansion. In 1986, the flagship store at 867 Madison Avenue, Manhattan, opened to much fanfare. The 1990s saw the introduction of Polo Sport line, the Ralph Lauren Purple luxury label, the rough and rustic RRL line of apparel, and the RL restaurants, among others. The brand recently launched The Ralph Lauren Purple Label Fall 2020 Collection which celebrates the 25th anniversary of the Purple Label. The collection is headlined by a reissued capsule of tailored looks from the 90’s inspired by Ralph Lauren’s personal suitings and his love of sartorial English tailoring. In 1997, the company’s shares were offered on the New York Stock Exchange. In 2000, polo.com was launched in collaboration with NBC, which was later relaunched as ralphlauren.com. In 2015, Ralph Lauren stepped down as the CEO of the brand to focus on the creative side. Patrice Louvet is the current President and CEO.

As we approached the latter part of the last decade, the brand’s focus shifted increasingly towards sustainability. It has formed a Senior Steering Committee that includes members of the senior management team, and in 2018 appointed a Chief Sustainability Officer. Last year, the brand undertook a detailed materiality analysis, refreshed its strategy, set goals, and developed a road map for improvement, which is outlined in its Global Citizenship & Sustainability Report (GCSR). The course of action is segregated into three headings. One, Create Timeless Style, whereby products are designed with a sense of timelessness so that consumers can treasure them for a lifetime, and which are manufactured using responsibly sourced and sustainable materials. Two, Protect The Environment by mitigating the brand’s impacts, starting internally with distribution, packaging, stores, and offices, followed by a similar commitment from its suppliers. Three, Champion Better Lives by improving the work experience of its employees and demanding similar standards from its suppliers. The GCSR also lists some concrete goals. Last year the brand set itself a 100 per cent renewable energy goal for owned and operated facilities. This year, all design, product development, and merchant teams will receive training for sustainable, circular, inclusive, and culturally aware design, as well as setting science-

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The Ralph Lauren Purple Label Fall 2020 Collection

based greenhouse gas reduction targets. By 2022, 80 per cent of its business will be done with “strategic and key suppliers,” and by 2023, achieve zero waste to landfill. By 2025, it will eliminate the use of hazardous chemicals in the supply chain, all key materials will be sustainably sourced, only recycled polyester will be used, all animal-derived materials will be certified or traceable, all packaging material will be recyclable or sustainably sourced, and at least 20 per cent reduction in total water use. Ralph has never forgotten his working-class roots and, throughout his career, has been active in philanthropy. Through the Ralph And Ricky Lauren Family Foundation and the Ralph Lauren Corporation, Ralph has been active in the fight against cancer, as well as supporting higher education and healthcare programs in underprivileged communities. Ralph’s involvement in fighting cancer began in 1989, following the death of his close friend Nina Hyde, the fashion editor of The Washington Post. He founded the Nina Hyde Centre for Breast Cancer Research that year. In 1994, as the chairman, Ralph oversaw the unveiling of Fashion Targets Breast Cancer, an initiative of the CFDA. In 2000, the RL Corporation launched the Pink Pony Campaign, to reduce disparities in cancer care and improve treatments in poor and underserved communities. He co-founded the Ralph Lauren

Center for Cancer Care & Prevention in East Harlem, New York, and the Royal Marsden Ralph Lauren Centre for Breast Cancer Research in London. In 2000, RL Corporation launched the Volunteer Program for its employees to create meaningful connections with the communities in which they work. In 2004, the Polo Fashion School was established, in which company executives work with inner-city youth to offer insights into the fashion business. In 2006, the Polo Jeans GIVE campaign was created to inspire and encourage community service by supporting the efforts of volunteers. In 1998, the RL Corporation donated $13 million to the Smithsonian Institution for a ten-year restoration of the original American flag that inspired the US national anthem - “The Star-Spangled Banner.” In 2013, RL Corporation announced its commitment to restore the elite École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, one of the most influential art schools in France. Having just crossed the age of 80, Ralph is in his twilight years, but shows no signs of slowing down. The brand he built is still going strong, and still driven by innovation. Whatever the future holds, Ralph Lauren has cemented his legacy as the one who turned American-chic into a global heavyweight in the world of luxury fashion and lifestyle.

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FA S H I O N

THREADS

SUSTAINABILITY WITH VERSATILITY Lyocell has been growing in prominence recently thanks to its eco-friendly credentials combined with its versatility

Lyocell is a form of rayon, a cellulose fibre manufactured from natural sources which, in this case, is bleached wood pulp using a dry jet-wet spinning process. It was developed in 1972 by a team at the American Enka fibres facility at Enka, North Carolina. The ownership of this know-how has changed hands several times before its current iteration as the Tencel brand under the Lenzing Group of Austria. Tencel today is the most widely known Lyocell fibre producer throughout the world. Lyocell has several properties in common with other cellulosic fibres such as cotton, linen, ramie, and viscose rayon. They are soft to the touch, absorbent, strong when either wet or dry, resistant to wrinkling, easy to dye across a wide range of colours, and have high colour retention which means they can be machine washed. Lyocell is generally more expensive to produce than cotton or viscose rayon. The fibres produced fall into one of two types. Staple fibres are one type and are commonly used in the production of clothing such as denim, chino, underwear, casual wear, and towels. The second type is Filament fibres,

which tend to be longer and smoother than staple fibres, and therefore, have a silkier appearance. They are used in the manufacture of women’s clothing and men’s dress shirts. The two types collectively enable the fabric to imitate a wide range of textures from leather to suede and even silk. Lyocell also blends well with a variety of other fibres such as silk, cotton, rayon, polyester, linen, nylon, and wool. They are also in the manufacture of such diverse products as conveyor belts, speciality papers, and medical dressings. Tencel, the most significant brand connected to the manufacture of Lyocell, promotes itself and its fibre as an eco-friendly alternative to many of the fibres it can imitate. It uses an innovative closed-loop production process called Refibra which, it claims, captures 99.7% of the solvents used in the manufacturing process, and can be reused. The process also reduces the use of water by 95% compared to cotton fabric manufacturing while not polluting the air, soil or water. Wood and pulp used by the Lenzing Group come from natural forests and sustainably managed plantations.

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THE 48 HOUR EXCLUSIVE Cole Haan’s new backpack is invaluable for those two-day business or leisure trips

Cole Haan, the American men’s and women’s highend footwear and accessories brand has recently launched the Zerøgrand 48HR Backpack. As the name suggests, the bag is designed to be the ideal all-you-need companion for a twoday trip, be it a long weekend, or a mid-week business travel. It is big enough to hold sufficient clothes plus a laptop and other essentials while being small enough to fit into overhead luggage compartments or under the seat; thus, eliminating the need for a second or oversized suitcase. The bag has been designed with little details that make it practical while being constructed to be lightweight, durable and weatherproof. The backpack opens fully, for effortless packing and access to the packed materials. There is an abundance of pockets throughout the backpack and are Neoprene-lined to securely house everything one may need, from keys to electronics and even size-ten shoes. Its interior is segregated into zippered, mesh zones to keep the clothes

organized and to hold them securely in place during travel. There is a dedicated interior laptop sleeve big enough to fit a 17” computer. Magnetic buckles keep things secure but within easy reach. The backpack has anatomically mapped shoulder strap for a more comfortable fit. These straps can be stowed away and out of sight if one wishes to check-in the backpack as part of flight luggage. For further convenience, the backpack has a Pass-through sleeve which can be used slip the handle of a rolling suitcase through it, so that the backpack rests on top of the suitcase. This way, the backpack can be carried securely and conveniently along with the rolling suitcase as one unit. The backpack is made from a durable nylon material. The handles are made from leather and hardware are rubberized. The materials were selected and engineered, according to the brand, to keep the contents dry and secure in any weather condition, be it sun, rain or snow.

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FA S H I O N • B E S P O K E M AT T E R S

EDWARD SEXTON

BESPOKE MATTERS Meet Edward Sexton, the talent behind the fabled tailoring at Nutters of Savile Row, and the current eponymous bespoke tailoring establishment at Knightsbridge

The cover of Abbey Road, the 1969 Beatles’ album, features three of the famous foursome wearing suits tailored by Nutters of Savile Row. The hands that cut and stitched those iconic suits were that of Edward Sexton. The Beatles were part of a long list of celebrity clientele that includes the likes of Annie Lennox, Bernie Ecclestone, the Jaggers, Andy Warhol and Elton John. While co-founder Tommy Nutter was the public face of the brand, Sexton was the talent behind it. In 1976, Sexton became managing director of Nutters. He moved to a new location in 1982 and changed the name to Edward Sexton. In 1990, he moved the business to its current location at Knightsbridge. Take us through Edward Sexton’s process of creating the perfect suit. We start by getting to know the customer and their needs, usually over a cup of tea. It is important to understand who you are dressing, what they want the clothes for and the context in which they will wear the clothes. Having established who the customer is and what their needs are, we take detailed measures and notes on the proportions of the client. The pattern is then cut and moulded around the client’s body over the course of three progressing. Over this process, we make sure that the garment fits comfortably and elegantly with the perfect proportions to suit the customer’s physique and style.

What would you say are the essential ingredients of a great suit? You have to start with a great piece of cloth, and British worsted wool suiting is up there amongst the best. We also get some very good fabrics from Italy. With a good length of well-set cloth, you can then mould it to create the desired lines. For me, that is a strong structured shoulder with dramatic architectural lines, a high armhole and a long, low and leafy lapel. Attention must be focused on every detail of collar, shoulder and sleeve as this is what people see when talking to the wearer. What advice would you give our readers who may want a bespoke suit made for themselves? Figure out what you want the garment for and not in a specific way. The style and feel of the garment, the context you will wear it in and how you want to present yourself. Then find a tailor whose style you like and want. Meet with them and explain to them what you want the garment to do for you and then let them work their magic. Don’t get bogged down in details or try and make someone do what they don’t believe in.

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EDWARD SEXTON 26 Beauchamp Place Knightsbridge, London SW3 1NJ info@edwardsexton.co.uk Instagram: @edwardsexton

Edward Sexton

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FA S H I O N • N E W O L D - S C H O O L L U X U R Y

NEW OLD-SCHOOL LUXURY Introducing CCCXXXIII, a fresh Beverly Hills-based luxury brand

June 2018, inside the petite salon of the Baccarat Hotel in New York City, in the presence of some of New York’s most influential people, a brand-new bespoke luxury brand is born: CCCXXXIII (333). Each collection by the brand will be limited to 333 pieces, segregated into three variants of 300 pieces, 30 pieces and a super-exclusive three-piece variant. Based in Beverly Hills, CCCXXXIII is the brainchild of serial entrepreneur Christopher R. King - its founder and designer. The launch product is an attaché collection comprising 300 ‘Julian’ cases in premium Italian leather, 30 ‘Constantine’ cases in South African crown ostrich, and three ‘Imperium’ cases in Australian crocodile with solid gold finishes. The cases were handcrafted employing “the highest quality materials and skins,” and lined with suede and mink. They also debuted the brand’s signature gold “Crown Coin” clasps, which were designed by King in a six-month development collaboration with the Florence-based jeweller to the Vatican. The Beverly Hills-based Christopher King is a self-made man. A multimillionaire, who made his initial fortune in the US real estate market. After taking on losses following the crash of 2008, he started over. In 2013, he founded Cruzach, Inc, a management consulting firm specialising in acquisitions, branding, marketing, and investments. That same year, he also co-founded King of Clubs with Justin Anthony, the founder of True Story Brands: a South African inspired hospitality group which manages four dining destinations in Atlanta. King of Clubs, in collaboration with fourth-generation Napa Valley winemaker Robert Mondavi, Jr., curates a proprietary blend of Cabernet sourced from Napa’s most pristine areas in limited editions for wine collectors and connoisseurs. Last September, in the process of giving a fitting send-off to the naturally aspirated V12 Aston DBS Superleggera, the British

marque teamed up with King to unveil a super-exclusive threepiece limited-edition. The exterior is understated with a custom colour: Kingsway White. The badges are gold-plated. The grill is hand-masked and hand-painted for a custom finish. Yellow highlights contrast the black of the wheel spokes. The interior pit is black against satin-matte finished walnut. In fact, it is the most amount of wood ever used in the interior of an Aston Martin. The trunk, also in walnut, is designed to hold bespoke CCCXXXIII luggage. The brand’s collection has expanded since its launch last year to include baggage for men and women. In addition to the attaché, the men’s collection now consists of a toiletry bag with soft, supple leather outside, and suede inside. It has a diamond quilted leather handle. There is a briefcase in the collection crafted from premium cowhide leather. It has a shoulder strap with a soft diamond quilted pad and two durable top handles for ease of carrying. Contrasting suede lines the interior with two zipper compartments. A magnetic fold-over leather flap can enclose a laptop in the large interior side pocket. The Backpack comes in two versions: one has premium Lugano Suede exterior while the other has a soft cowhide leather. Both have exquisite leather and suede interior, diamond-quilted adjustable shoulder straps and a quilted top handle. They have two zipper compartments lined with suede and a large laptop pocket. All of the models have three thin gold bars to provide structure and protection to the bottom. There are two 33-piece special editions on offer. One is a laptop sleeve with python exterior in a special off-white and navy-blue combination. The other is a tablet sleeve crafted from two Porosus Crocodile skins. The interior lining of both is suede. All CCCXXXIII products are accented with the brand’s signature three gold crown coins. All are handcrafted in Italy.

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Christopher R. King, Founder and Designer at CCCXXXIII

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FA S H I O N

BALENCIAGA

The TYREX sneaker’s design was inspired by the natural web of muscles beneath the skin, combined with the musculature within high performing sneakers. Features a blunt square toe and shockabsorbing mid and outsoles with a subtle heel.

VERSACE

Inspired by the anatomy of the great white shark, the outsole of the Squalo sneakers evokes the shape of the animal’s jaws. Leather details feature signature Versace top-stitching as a celebration of the brand’s heritage.

LOUIS VUITTON

Designed by Virgil Abloh, the LV Trail sneaker comes in a combination of suede calf leather and lightweight mesh. Combining fashion with an outdoor spirit, this model features Monogram Flowers on the outsole.

GIVENCHY

For Summer 2020, Givenchy has unveiled the Givenchy Spectre, a series of exclusive lightweight sneakers inspired by high-performance running shoes. A distinctive urban style statement, the Givenchy Spectre features padded footbeds and exceptional flexibility for ease of wear. The featured design is a color-blocked runner sock version that comes in a graphic, bonded runway print in five different tricolor versions. This pull-on style also exists in monochrome black with “Givenchy” lettering. OFF-WHITE These vulcanized low top sneakers feature a canvas upper, a rubber outsole and Off-White logo. Featuring black arrows embroidered on the side and a zip tie.

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ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Following on from the Tread Boots seen in 2018, the pre-Spring/Summer 2020 sees the introduction of Tread Slicks inspired by workwear boots but the canvas body gives them a lighter and more summery feel characterized by their oversized rubber sole.

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FA S H I O N • V E G A N - F I B R E S

Hemp Fabric and Hemp Rope and String

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VEGAN-FIBRES A brief look at some of the sustainable alternatives to traditional fibres used in the Fashion Industry

The fashion industry’s image has taken something of a beating in recent years with some reports claiming that fashion and its related industries are the second most polluting; second only to oil and its related industries. As the number and volume of critics voicing their concerns about the fashion industry’s unsustainable practises and excessive consumption have increased, the industry has responded by switching to what they claim are more sustainable vegetablebased fibres. Some, however, have questioned the true “green” credentials of these claims. The unsustainable practices in the industry start at the farms, fields or forests where the raw materials are produced. From the use of unsustainable crops to energyintensive farming methods and the maltreatment of animals, the list is quite extensive. To it is added the waste, pollution and water depletion during the manufacturing process. Then there is the distribution of these manufactured goods across vast distances until it reaches the customer. The high rate of consumption, also known as fast-fashion, is the cause of high levels of waste-generation and thus a significant contributor to landfills. According to a 2015 US-EPA report, the amount of “Clothing and Footwear” that was generated between 1960 and 2015 increased nearly nine-times from 1.3 to 11.94 million US tons, comprising mainly textiles, rubber and leather. Even though the amount of “Clothing and Footwear” being recycled in the same period had increased - from 50,000 to 3.7 million UST - it pales in comparison to the 8.2 million UST that ended up in landfills in 2015. Back at the raw materials phase, the maltreatment of animals at industrial farms along with their contribution to methane emissions and pollution in general, has led fashion brands to shift towards using more plant-based materials. However, this does not necessarily mean they are sustainable by default, as the manufacturing process involves the use of harsh chemicals that lead to pollution and water depletion. As a discerning consumer, one must

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FA S H I O N • V E G A N - F I B R E S

Bamboo Fibre

differentiate between a pretence at being “green” and those that are genuinely sustainable. Any differentiation between sustainable and unsustainable fibres must begin with the raw materials used. The first degree of differentiation is whether the fibre was produced from a GMO or a natural variety of crop. GMO crops generally tend to have weak eco-friendly credentials, if not for anything else, because of the use of unnatural patented seeds and crops that tend to be very thirsty. Take GMO cotton for example, which in India, is being blamed for a large number of small-farmer suicides in the state of Maharashtra, and for its groundwater depletion. In the case of natural varieties, the obvious question is whether a crop was grown organically or by using pesticides; the effects of the latter are now well known. Here are some vegetable-based fibres and materials that are being marketed as sustainable alternatives to the traditional ones. Bamboo has emerged as a viable alternative to cultivated plant-based fibres. Its biggest advantage is that it is a rapidly growing plant in its natural environment without any human inputs; making its cultivation highly sustainable. The fabric it yields is highly versatile, breathes, has natural antibacterial properties and is mostly biodegradable. The problem lies in the process that transforms bamboo into a fibre, as it requires the use of chemicals. Manufacturers, however, have developed closed-loop systems in which as much as 50% of the hazardous waste is recaptured.

Hemp is one of the oldest cultivated super-plants. It was, along with cotton, the most important cash crop of the US until the middle of the last century. Like bamboo, hemp is a high-yield crop that can grow rapidly and naturally without human intervention. It even improves soil quality by returning most of the nutrients it uses back into the soil. The fibre, extracted from the stem of the plant, is strong, durable, highly UV-resistant and exceptionally soft. These qualities make hemp one of the most sustainable, versatile and practical fabric options. Since hemp fibre has been produced since ancient times, it is possible to produce it without using modern chemicals. Unfortunately, some manufacturers do use chemicals to reduce costs. Tencel is a brand of Lyocell (a type of rayon) manufactured by the Lenzing group. It is made from Forest Stewardship Council-certified wood pulp using a closed-loop process which, the brand claims, captures 99.7% of the solvents used while reducing the use of water by 95%; when compared to the other lyocell fibres available in the market using traditional methods. Lyocell is soft to the touch, absorbent, strong, resistant to wrinkling, easy to dye, and has high colour retention. It is also biodegradable and can be upcycled. Modal, a type of rayon closely related to Lyocell, is made from wood pulp and is often blended with cotton or other fibres, while 100% modal is mostly found in athletic wear. It has natural wicking abilities and insulating properties. Lenzing has also developed a closed-loop manufacturing process to produce Modal from beechwood pulp.

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Natural Cork Leather in Green Meadow Exclusive Print

Cork is an unexpected newcomer to the fashion industry and is used for manufacturing shoes and bags. It is a durable, lightweight, water-resistant, completely recyclable and upgradable material. Cork is harvested from cork oak trees that keep regenerating if harvested once a decade. The increased use of cork has the potential to prevent the desertification of cork oak forests. In addition to these new entrants to the fashion industry, there are organic variants of traditional fabrics. Organic cotton and linen that are produced using low impact manufacturing techniques and natural dyes. Organic soy protein fibre, leftover

after processing soybeans into food, is being used to manufacture vegan-friendly “cashmere” and “silk.” Then there are synthetic fibres that are the result of recycling and upcycling of materials such as polyester, PET bottles and other types of plastics. For an eco-conscious consumer, particularly at the high end of the market, the options of sustainable materials are growing exponentially. One must certainly read the fine print in the labelling to discern the actual “green” products from the pretentious ones. However, conscious consumption must include the minimising or elimination of excessive consumption.

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G R O O M I N G • N AT U R A L M AT T E R S

NATURAL MATTERS Angela Turovskaya’s Dubai based Balmessence offers ethically sourced beauty products and fragrances

“Swapping synthetics for authentics,” is the guiding philosophy behind Balmessence, the UAE’s first retailer to offer a one-stop-shop for a wide range of high-end beauty products and artistic fragrances that are created using the most amount of ethically sourced ingredients. The wide range of ethical products covers skincare, makeup, haircare, beauty accessories and rare artistic fragrances from around the world. The ethically sourced ingredients, according to the brand, are products that are certified as organic, natural, cruelty-free, or vegan. The brand name is a combination of two words: balm because it is “the common texture for natural and organic products;” while essence highlights “the natural origin of their scents, including fragrance essences. The combination of two underlines the core values of the brand and the products they carry.” Balmessence was founded in 2016 by Angela Turovskaya, a Belarusian who has held leadership positions in Dubai’s beauty industry for over 15 years. Starting her career in 2004, as a Manager with Paris Gallery’s SPAce, she became the Spa Manager at JA Resorts & Hotels and Wafi Hospitality. Between 2009 and 2012, she was the Retail and Spa Manager at Beiersdorf MENA, responsible for their Nivea brand. In 2014, armed with a broad understanding of holistic wellness and consumer needs, she founded Wellness United Inc - a distribution company for ethical beauty and niche perfume brands. Based in Dubai, it caters to clients in the Middle East region. Later, a sister concern was opened in Minsk, Belarus, to focus on the Eastern European market and beyond. Since its founding, Wellness United has supplied highquality, ethical and luxurious products to beauty boutiques, department stores, five-star hotels, spas and salons. It currently showcases over 20 brands that include artisan perfumes, premium clean skincare, hair care and cosmetics by brands based in France, South Africa, Italy, USA, and UK, among others. Building on the success of Wellness United, Angela founded Balmessence in 2016; her second Dubai based brand. Angela then expanded Balmessence to Minsk, where she also opened her first brick-and-mortar boutique. Today, Balmessence has four boutiques in Minsk: a flagship store in the city’s historic downtown area, along with boutiques in Dana Mall, Green City and Palazzo Mall. The brand opened its first Dubai boutique in Mall of the Emirates in December. “At Balmessence, we deeply value the precious authenticity of natural beauty and know that effective beauty products do not need to be made from harsh, synthetic ingredients,”

says Angela. “By enhancing the cosmetic integrity of nature’s own ingredients, we offer our clientele a sophisticated array of products, accessories and niche perfumes designed to make them look and feel gorgeous and healthy, just as nature intended.” Although the bulk of the products on offer at Balmessence cater to the needs of women, there is still a wide range catering to the needs of men. Here, we have selected six standout fragrances from five perfumeries that are currently offered by Balmessence. Arte Profumi is a renowned niche perfume house based in Rome, Italy. Its fragrances are made using only natural raw materials, are highly concentrated, long-lasting, and are designed for layering. Sine Tempore is a woody and aromatic fragrance for women and men with lime, vetiver and cardamom forming the head, middle and base notes. Sucre Noir is a sweet oriental feminine fragrance that features orchid, sugar and vanilla. Parfums d’Elmar is a new French brand with three fragrances, all launched in 2018 and presented in bespoke handcrafted casing – the flacons are covered in lustrous leather while the caps feature over 360 Swarovski crystals. Dark Desire by Parfums d’Elmar is an oriental fragrance for women and men. The top notes are cardamom, orange blossom, carrot, wormwood, yellow mandarin; middle notes are Bulgarian rose, cinnamon, myrrh, cumin and violet wood; the base notes are Virginia cedar, sandalwood, oud, frankincense, tonka bean, amber, castoreum, civet, patchouli. Parfums Berdoues was founded back in 1902 in Toulouse, France. Millésime Oud Wa Amber, the house’s latest fragrance for women and men, is warm and voluptuous. At the top is Nutmeg from India, Agarwood from Thailand forms the middle note, while at the base is Spanish Labdanum. Rose Nuit Eau de Parfum is the debut fragrance from Rose de Nuit, a premium hair extension brand. Curated to be a floral reference to Japan, the head notes are tangerine and grapefruit, while in the middle are peony, rose and osmanthus. Patchouli and white musk form the base. IO.KO 1954 is a personal collection of six fragrances by Enzo Galardi, the heir to the Galardi family of perfumers, a known name in the field of exclusive international and Italian perfumery. I-Egocentric, one of the six, is a fruity, leathery and woody fragrance thanks to the incense, ginger, and fruity notes at the head, followed by absolute of rosa, mirra and osmanthus. White musk, sandalwood, leather, and amber notes form the base.

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Arte Profumi Sucre Noir

Detaille 1905 Rose Nuit

Arte Profumi Sine Tempore

Parfums d’Elmar Dark Desire

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Parfums Berdoues Millésime Oud Wa Amber

IO.KO 1954 I-Egocentric

FRAGRANCE FILE

EDITOR’S PICKS

Terre d’Hermès Flacon H Perfume 2020, Hermès This new limited edition fragrance is a fusion of grapefruit and orange with middle note of ﬂint and at the base oak moss takes on woody facets while benzoin provides texture and reﬁnement 75ml – 352 AED

Beau De Jour, Tom Ford The strong lavender opening notes are followed by a core of rosemary, germanium, oak moss and basil, while the base brings patchouli and amber to create an earthy foundation and musky ﬁnish 100ml – 662 AED

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Stronger With You Freeze, Emporio Armani A citrusy, woody, fougere fragrance opens with fresh notes of lime that develop into an elegant heart of clean sage and enveloping lavender, lingering with a masculine woody amber accord 100ml – 415 AED

Invictus Legend, Paco Rabanne A woody Aromatic fragrance with top notes of grapefruit, sea salt and sea notes clash force with middle notes of geranium, bay leaf and spices ﬁnishing off with a warm swirl of guaiac wood and red amber 100ml – 425 AED

Ferragamo, Salvatore Ferragamo A radiant explosion of Mediterranean citrus featuring bergamot and lemon paves the way to the heart combining violet accords with the strength of the Ferragamo leather note wrapped in a layer of musk and vetiver 100ml – 449 AED

The $Kull, Philipp Plein The fragrance boasts a potent trail of black pepper, cardamom boosted with the richness of dark woods and leather, and “pleined” with the luscious scent of Bourbon vanilla and black amber notes 125ml – 1,417 AED

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WA T C H E S • R I N G S O F P O E T R Y

RINGS OF POETRY Trilobe; a French start-up presented its first watch collection, ‘Only Watch’ and a bespoke variant last year

Les Matinaux, or ‘the morning,’ is a poem written by French poet and hero of the Resistance, René Char. Last December, at the Musée des Arts et Métiers in Paris, a new Les Matinaux was presented to the world; a 100-piece limited edition watch that pays homage to the celebrated poet’s legacy through its unique poetry in motion. Les Matinaux is not just a new watch, but a whole new way of reading time. The dial of the Les Matinaux has no hands. Instead, three nonconcentric rotating rings of different sizes with graduated scales rotate, while the pointers remain fixed. This concept, in general, where the scale moves while the indicator remains static, is not new. It is the design of the dial and the manner and movement of the rings that makes Les Matinaux unique. The graduated scales on the largest outer ring that runs along the dial’s periphery indicates the hours. The median ring, likewise, shows the minutes. The seconds are indicated

by the movement of a skeletonized sub-dial within the median ring. The Sainte-Chapelle’s “grande rosace” motif has been chosen for the skeletonization of the seconds disc. “It is a mysterious place for Parisians, far away from the wandering eyes of onlookers passing by,” states the brand. The architecture of the dial offers a window to the beating heart within. Les Matinaux is sold under the Trilobe brand, founded just three years ago by former banker Gautier Massonneau. The son of an architect, and of a decorator, creativity was in Massonneau’s veins. His love of horology drove him to design a new watch. It had to be different. It had to be a fusion of poetry, architecture and design. After three years of drawings and mock-ups, he approached Jean-François Mojon, the renowned watchmaker who founded the complications specialist Chronode.

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Trilobe Les Matinaux Secret

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WA T C H E S • R I N G S O F P O E T R Y

Trilobe Les Matinaux

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Formerly in charge of IWC’S R&D and quality, Mojon’s list of clients at Chronode includes the likes of Hermès, Harry Winston and MB&F. After three years of R&D and prototyping, the complication for the Les Matinaux was ready. The prototypes were unveiled to the world at Baselworld 2019. The case of Les Matinaux is 40.5mm in diameter and 10.25 mm thick, in stainless steel (316L), with mirror-polished surfaces alternating with satin-brushed treatments. The collection is available in eight dials variations based on colour and finish. Six in “Sunray”: Blue, Silver, Grey, Black, Carmine, and Green; two “Storm” finishes in Grey and Silver. The three static pointers, in the shape of the brand’s trefoils (trilobe in French), seem somewhat scattered across the dial, while the rings rotate counterclockwise. Not surprisingly, telling the time on a Les Matinaux takes some getting used to; but that is kind of the idea, “because the true luxury today is to take its time,” says the man behind the design. The case is topped by a domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflection treatment. The lugs attach to leather or alligator strap. The strap is made in Paris by a team of artisans from a company certified: Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (Living Heritage Company). The label is a mark of recognition by the French State, put in place to reward French firms for their excellence in traditional and industrial know-how. The strap colour coordinated with the colour of the dial. The double folding buckle is subtly engraved with the Trilobe logo.

The movement is a “highly modified” 2892 automatic winding calibre with X-Centric module. It has 246 customassembled components with approximately 42 hours of power reserve. The case back features a Sapphire Crystal window and, among other engravings, the watch’s serial number out of 100. The watch has a water-resistance of upto 5 bars. For the 2019 Only Watch charity auction, Trilobe produced a one-off tribute to René Char. The case is made of bronze with a complimentary brown sunray finish dial. The solid caseback has René Char’s signature on it, as well as the words “Impose ta chance, serre ton bonheur et va vers ton risque. A te regarder ils s’ habitueront,” which translate to “Impose your luck, embrace your happiness and go towards your risks. By looking at you, they will get used to it.” Late last year, Trilobe presented Secret, the latest edition of the Les Matinaux collection. Each Les Matinaux Secret is not just unique, but personal to its owner. The dial of each watch features a map of the sky with the stars from the day, time and place that is dear to each customer. In the dark, the stars light-up to illuminate the chosen moment through a 3D application of superluminova, the first of its kind in the watchmaking world. On the case-back is an engraving that reads: One-piece. Gautier Massonneau wanted to bring about a “fusion of poetry, architecture and design.” Based on the evidence of the brand’s first offerings, one would have to concur.

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WA T C H E S • B O L D E L E G A N C E

BOLD ELEGANCE Introducing Panerai’s two new Luminor watches designed by MS Dhoni

Last November at the St. Regis in Mumbai, Panerai organised an exclusive event to introduce two special edition watches: the Luminor GMT 44 mm (PAM01056) and the Luminor Chrono Flyback 44 mm (PAM01057). The two timepieces were designed in collaboration with MS Dhoni, the former Indian Cricket Team Captain and Panerai’s brand ambassador in India. Officially, Dhoni was unveiled as Panerai’s ambassador in 2018, but his appreciation of the watchmaker on a personal level goes a long way back. “I am happy to be part of the Panerai Family. It’s a brand that I have known for more than 13 years now,” Dhoni revealed at the event. “One of the main reasons that attracted me to the brand, I would say, is Mike Horn. He was with us during the 2011 World Cup. He was the first person that I actually saw wearing a Panerai. Then I read more about the brand and its history. Particularly, how they started making equipment for the Italian navy divers, and then all the ups and downs, and to today, standing tall as one of the best manufacturers of watches in the world.” Mahendra Singh Dhoni, born 1981, is a right-handed middleorder batsman and wicket-keeper. A man of humble workingclass origins, he began his professional career not in sports but as a Travelling Ticket Examiner for Indian Railways. Cricket was not even his first sport. As a schoolboy, he showed great talent in Badminton, and as a goalkeeper in Football. His competency as a goalkeeper led his coach to suggest that he try his hand at wicket-keeping in a local cricket club. The rest, as they say, is history. As a batsman in the Indian Cricket team, he became one of the highest run-scorers in One Day Internationals (ODIs) with more than 10,000 runs scored. A lot of those runs were accumulated with an aggressive batting style, which included his signature innovation, the “helicopter” shot. As a wicketkeeper, his 294 career dismissals rank him first among Indian wicket-keepers.

He captained the Indian national team in limited-overs formats for almost a decade, between 2007 to 2016. In that time, India won the 2007 ICC World Twenty20, the 2010 and 2016 Asia Cups, the 2011 ICC Cricket World Cup and the 2013 ICC Champions Trophy; making him the first captain to win all three ICC limited-overs trophies. He was the captain of the Indian Test Cricket team between 2008 and 2014, in which time, he became the most successful Indian Test captain with 27 Test wins, and took the team to the number one position in the ICC Test rankings. Jean-Marc Pontroué, CEO of Panerai, said: “MS Dhoni is an athlete with a bold personality. The collaboration between him and the brand was born naturally since it expresses values to which our brand is strongly linked: commitment towards sport and the willingness to set new records. The two special editions dedicated to this iconic sportsman contributed to making our collaboration even stronger.” There is another common thread between the two. Panerai began as a manufacturer of watches and other precision instruments for the Italian navy and military. Dhoni’s family hails from the northern Indian state of Uttarakhand, a state with strong links with the army. Not surprisingly, Dhoni has often expressed his admiration for the Indian army and even completed a two-week stint with the Territorial Army in Jammu and Kashmir last year. In 2012, Dhoni was conferred the rank of honorary lieutenant-colonel for his contribution in cricket. It is because of his bond with the army, that he chose its deep-green colour as the dial-colour for both his collaboration watches. The MS Dhoni special editions are an extension of Panerai’s eminent ‘Luminor’ family. The two new watches “reflect the dynamic dual personality of MS Dhoni,” according to the brand. He is “determined, dependable and confident in the field. He is eclectic, impeccable and sociable out of it.” The Luminor GMT 44 MM is designed to be tough and reliable with its case made of solid AISI 316L stainless steel

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The Panerai Luminor GMT 44 mm (PAM01056) SIGNÉ • EDITION 37

WA T C H E S • B O L D E L E G A N C E

“MS Dhoni is an athlete with a bold personality. The collaboration between him and the brand was born naturally since it expresses values to which our brand is strongly linked: commitment towards sport and the willingness to set new records. The two special editions dedicated to this iconic sportsman contributed to making our collaboration even stronger.” Jean-Marc Pontroué, CEO of Panerai

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WA T C H E S • B O L D E L E G A N C E

The Panerai Luminor Chrono Flyback 44 mm (PAM01057) 54

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with a brushed finish. It has a diameter of 44 mm and a thickness of 16 mm. It has a polished steel bezel. The brand’s trademarked Safety Lock device is also in brushed steel. On top is a sapphire made from carborundum. The case-back is a 12-sided screw-back in steel featuring celebratory engraving consisting of the inscription “Mahendra Singh Dhoni 183,” the outline of the Indian peninsula and a picture of the player with his signature. The number 183 represents Dhoni’s highest single-innings score in ODIs. Inside is Panerai’s automatic mechanical P.9010/GMT calibre, with a thickness of 6.0 mm. It is an automatic mechanical movement that supports hours, minutes, small seconds, date and a second time zone; thus, the GMT. It comprises 199 components and 31 jewels. It has a Glucydur balance, Incabloc anti-shock device, and two spring barrels. It has a power reserve of three days. The case is matt military green, with a sandwich structure. Arabic numerals and markers, in recognisable Panerai style, are in white Super-LumiNova with green luminescence. It has centralised hour, minute and GMT hands. The small seconds sub-dial is at 9 o’clock, and the date at 3 o’clock. The primary strap is black semi-matt alligator leather with dark green stitching and brushed steel trapezoidal pin buckle. The watch comes with an additional military green rubber strap. It is water-resistant up to 30 bar or about 300 metres. The Luminor Chrono Flyback 44 MM is naturally the more sophisticated variant of the two as it features Goldtech, a Panerai trademarked gold alloy developed at the brand’s

Laboratorio di Idee. The case features the Goldtech with a brushed finish. It has the same 44 mm diameter as the GMT, but is slightly thicker at 16.87 mm. The bezel is in polished Goldtech, while the Safety Lock device has the same brushed Goldtech finish as the case. The cover is again a Sapphire dial made from carborundum. The case-back is also a 12-sided screw-back, but here, it is in polished Goldtech with a sapphire crystal porthole. It has the same engraving but is done using the metallisation method. Panerai’s P.9100 calibre, an automatic mechanical movement, drives this watch. It also has twin spring barrels and a power reserve of three days, but its architecture is even more sophisticated than P.9010/GMT. This is because it has a chronograph movement with a vertical clutch and a columnwheel equipped with the flyback function. First appearing in 2013, it was the first automatic chronograph to be entirely developed and produced by Panerai, and it was created with the potential to be used in all kinds of sporting activities. The dial is again matt military green with a sandwich structure, with identical Arabic numerals and markers in white Super-LumiNova with green luminescence, as in the GMT. However, there is an additional nautical tachymeter scale in knots along the periphery of the dial. In addition to the central hour and minute hands, we also have central chronograph seconds and minute hands. The chronograph hours counter is in a sub-dial at 3 o’clock. The small seconds dial is at 9 o’clock. The two straps are the same as with the GMT, but this watch is water-resistant up to five bar or 50 metres.

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WA T C H E S • R E I M A G I N I N G A N I C H E

REIMAGINING A NICHE Richard Mille’s RM 33-02 bridges two presumed opposites, lifestyle and sports

The RM 33-02 is Richard Mille’s all-new sporty, round-ish, ultra-thin watch, and is based on the RM 033 that was launched in 2011. The round cased RM33 was the brand’s thinnest watch at the time and one of the most elegant. With the RM 33-02, the brand strays from its signature tonneau-shaped case once again, but this time, to merge two diametrically opposed characteristics in the world of horology: the elegance of a round timepiece with the dynamism of a sports watch. The RM 33-02 was developed under the supervision of Julien Boillat, Richard Mille’s Technical Director for Casemaking. He said: “In embodying the brand’s intended vision of extreme versatility, the RM 033 is a watch for everyday and any day. We have reinterpreted its aesthetics without disservice to the original version by accentuating its lines. Meanwhile, the exterior decoration, case and dial have been reworked to project a sportier vibe. The RM 33-02 thus achieves a delicate synthesis of so-called ‘lifestyle’ style and ‘sporty’ style.” The taut lines of the case, therefore, is a combination of the curves of the brand’s signature tonneau shape, and the elegance of a round form. Added to this combination is the

subtle allusion to sporty style in the design of the hollows. The exterior elements of the watch and its hour-markers also add to the watch’s complex visuals. “We assembled these metals and 5N gold hour-markers on two rigid titanium rails fixed between the flange and the movement. The dial, which spans the entire calibre, accentuates the volumes while the typography of the oversized numerals adds a dynamic element to the watch’s easy readability,” adds Boillat. The RM 33-02 is also the first round automatic watch in Carbon TPT. This light yet strong innovative material forms the case, bezel and caseback. The satin-finished red gold caseband contrasts the dark of the carbon. The three-part case is held in place by 14 grade-5 titanium spline screws, and is mounted on a rubber strap equipped with a grade-5 titanium folding clasp. An elevated central band along the strap, which declines and vanishes, extends from the two hollows positioned at 6 and 12 o’clock. The RM 33-02 is powered by the skeletonised RMXP1 calibre in grade-5 titanium, whose open-worked bridges, crafted from the same metal, house a mechanism that combines Swiss know-how with Richard Mille technology.

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Richard Mille RM 33-02

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WA T C H E S • R E I M A G I N I N G A N I C H E

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Regulated by a variable-inertia balance oscillating at 3 Hz, this calibre is wound by an off-centred platinum microrotor that considerably reduces the movement’s total thickness to 2.60 mm. The wet sandblasted and Titalyttreated baseplate, the micro-blasted, stretched and satinfinished surfaces, and the anglage—all produced by hand — accentuate volumes by playing with shadow and light thanks to the highly graphic skeletonisation. In terms of marketing, the brand is hoping to step out of its comfort zone to appeal to a broader audience with the RM 33-02. Even though the brand offers a relatively broad range of models and has enjoyed impressive growth since the release of its first watch in 2001, the brand is generally regarded as one catering to a niche segment because of its strong association with the world of sports and automobiles. Richard Mille, the brand’s founder, explains the brand’s approach to model development thus: “I like to reason like some car manufacturers do, as our approach is very similar. We too have our Formula 1 and GT vehicles, our saloons and 4x4s… We no longer see ourselves as a niche brand, but as a generalist brand with many different niches.” He continues, “the likelihood of our customers coming across someone wearing the same watch is extremely slim, as our collection is particularly extensive. We stuck to, and ultimately succeeded

in, overcoming the apparent contradiction between variety and coherence by working precisely on this idea of ‘ranges’.” To illustrate Richard’s point, the RM 029 and RM 033 are part of an urban category of understated watches perfect for everyday wear. The RM 020, RM 67-01 and RM 017 — often referred to as the “lifestyle” models — are comparable to saloons in the automobile industry as they offer elegant forms and technical features. The RM 031, RM 039 or the more recent RM 62-01 Tourbillon Vibrating Alarm ACJ, are similarly comparable to “concept cars”: extreme creations that require considerable development and, if released, are done in minimal numbers. The sports watch athletic is embodied by the RM 67-01 and 67-02, offering elegant forms and technical features. “Reinterpreting a model by injecting it with the latest aesthetic and technical innovations is always an exciting challenge,” says Richard. “The RM 33-02 project was ultimately much more than this though, because we actually re-assessed its place in the collection. That is what led to this sporty saloon of a creation, which features a refined interior as well as bodywork that cleverly reveals its sporting heritage.” The 33-02 is water-resistant to 30 metres and is available as a limited edition of 140 timepieces.

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WA T C H E S • S U P P O R T I N G I N N O VA T O R S

SUPPORTING INNOVATORS The Rolex Awards for Enterprise has supported innovation for the past 43 years

The Giant Arapaima is the world’s largest scaled freshwater fish and is native to the Amazon River and its tributaries. Sadly, overfishing, habitat fragmentation and water pollution have decimated wild populations almost to the point of extinction in many localities. “The Arapaima is a fantastic fish. It’s very large – up to 3 metres and 200 kilos. It has fed Amazonian people since the earliest human society,” says João CamposSilva. The Brazilian ecologist has formed close partnerships with local associations, fishermen and fisheries to save not only the Arapaima but also the livelihoods, food supply and culture of the indigenous communities who depend on the Amazon’s rivers for survival. He has plans to replicate his inclusive conservation plan to other communities where the Arapaima numbers are in decline. For his efforts, João was selected as one of the five Laureates at the Rolex Awards for Enterprise 2019. The biannual awards were launched in 1976 to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Rolex Oyster chronometer, the world’s first waterproof watch. The award supports innovative thinkers who are reshaping the future with their vision, courage and ground-breaking projects. Their projects must advance human knowledge, protect cultural heritage or help preserve natural habitats and species. While most awards recognise past achievements, the Rolex Awards fund working projects in their infancy, and therefore, focused on the future. From its inception, this award was designed to fill a void in corporate philanthropy by supporting exceptional individuals and projects around the world who would otherwise have none or limited access to traditional funding. Rebecca Irvin, head of philanthropy at Rolex, while speaking at a press conference held to introduce the five 2019 Laureates, explained the purpose of the award thus: “Rolex’s funding is similar to that of an angel investor who is not expecting a return of investment. We hope to help these individuals scale up their projects and bring them to the next level.” In the past 43 years, the program has received 34,000 project proposals from 191 countries. Of these, 150 Laureates have been selected thus far, with the youngest Laureate being 24 years old and the oldest at 74. These winners were chosen by a total of 146 experts who have served on the jury so far. For each edition of the Awards, a completely new panel of ten jurors is convened. The panel is independent, international, and selected for their expertise and stature in a wide variety of fields.

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The Rolex Awards for Enterprise ceremony held at the Smithsonian American Art Museum in Washington

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WA T C H E S • S U P P O R T I N G I N N O VA T O R S

Rolex Laureates From left to right: Grégoire Courtine, Krithi Karanth, João Campos-Silva, Miranda Wang and Brian Gitta.

Associate Laureates From left to right: Topher White, Dr Sara Saeed, Yves Moussallam, Emma Camp, Pablo García Borboroglu.

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For the 2019 awards, the jury selected ten finalists from a shortlist of 957 candidates from 111 countries. From these ten finalists, five Laureates were chosen. Each Laureate received 200,000 Swiss francs (around US $204,000) to advance their projects along with a Rolex chronometer. They will also benefit from worldwide publicity arranged by the brand. The Laureates were presented in August last year, at a formal ceremony held at the Smithsonian American Art Museum in Washington. João Campos-Silva was joined on stage by the four other Laureates. Grégoire Courtine has achieved what may seem like a miracle to spinal injury patients who have lost the ability to walk. The Lausanne based Frenchman has devised an implantable neuroprosthetic bridge to bypass the site of the spinal injury, thus enabling the patient’s brains to send command. This enables the damaged spinal nerves to recover and enables the patients to move their legs again; to walk. Grégoire wants to develop a fully implantable brain-spine interface as the next step. According to the World Health Organization, 15 countries in sub-Saharan Africa and South Asia carry almost 80 per cent of the global malaria burden. And worldwide, 61 per cent of malaria deaths are of children. The key to treating malaria is a quick diagnosis. Current malaria tests require a blood sample and a skilled analyst, both of which are not always available in the developing world. So, Brian Gitta and his team in Uganda have developed a portable electronic device called the Matiscope that gives a reliable reading in minutes, without drawing blood. Gitta wants to deliver it to hospitals throughout Uganda and Kenya. Krithi Karanth set up Wild Seve in 2015, a service for villagers living on the edges of Bandipur and Nagarahole wildlife reserves in South India. She helps them get government compensation if they have suffered from wildlife losses. Thus far, Wild Seve has filed 14,000 claims for 6,400 families, worth $200,000,

which has decreased hostility and increased trust between conservationists and communities. She has plans to open Wild Shaale, a conservation education programme for 300 schools in the high-conflict areas, reaching 20,000 children. It will also survey community attitudes in vulnerable villages. Miranda Wang, a 25-year-old Canadian entrepreneur, has a simple plan: “We’re taking plastics that are not recyclable today – things like dirty plastic bags or single-use packaging materials – and we transform them into valuable chemicals which can then be used to make durable materials for products that we all love and use every day.” She founded BioCellection in Silicon Valley to develop an array of unique technologies to transform soiled, contaminated and unrecyclable plastics like polyethene (PE) into renewable, quality chemicals with a high market value. The next step is to develop a fully commercial processing plant that can recycle 45,500 tonnes of plastic waste by 2023. Given the public interest in all ten finalists, as demonstrated by an online vote and the quality of their projects, Rolex decided to bestow Associate Laureate Awards on the five finalists who were not chosen to be the five Laureates by the jury. The five are: Argentinian conservationist Pablo García Borboroglu working to arrest the decline in world penguin populations. Marine biologist and explorer Emma Camp who is out to find the world’s most robust corals that can resist climate change and human activity. French volcanologist Yves Moussallam wants to shed light on how the gases and aerosols emitted by volcanoes are affecting climate change. Pakistani doctor Sara Saeed co-founded Sehat Kahani, which connects home-based female doctors with patients in impoverished communities through the internet. Technologist Topher White is giving researchers a unique view of wildlife in the world’s rainforests using old mobile phones.

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WA T C H E S • V I R T U A L H E A L T H C A R E

VIRTUAL HEALTHCARE Dr Sara Saeed’s Sehat Kahani uses technology to overcome healthcare constraints in Pakistan

There are around 170,000 doctors in Pakistan, of which, an impressive 63 per cent are female. However, says Dr Sara Saeed, “only 23 per cent of female doctors join the medical workforce. Instead, they stay at home to have a family; a situation termed the ‘doctor bride’ phenomenon. Through technology, we’re putting these female doctors back into the workforce within the cultural constraints that exist in Pakistan.” Dr Sara Saeed, the co-founder and Chief Executive of the Sehat Kahani, was speaking at a special event organised at the Etihad Museum in Dubai, on December 8, 2019, to commemorate her as an Associate Laureate of the Rolex Awards for Enterprise. She received a monetary grant in support of her project and a Rolex chronometer. In 2016, Dr Saeed’s was presented the Unilever Sustainable Living Young Entrepreneur Award. Born in 1986, Dr Saeed received her MBBS (Bachelor of Medicine and Surgery) from Dow University of Health Sciences in Karachi in 2010, and her Masters in Health Policy and Management from the Aga Khan University Faculty in Health Sciences in 2018. She co-founded Sehat Kahani in 2017 as a newer incarnation of a service called doctHERs that she cofounded in 2014 to champion women’s empowerment and provide high-quality healthcare to the poorest people. Through Sehat Kahani, Dr Saeed is able to reach thousands of patients in her country’s rural and medically underserved communities by connecting them with home-based female doctors via an innovative, low-cost, digital communication infrastructure.

Explaining the name of her organisation, Dr Saeed said: “Sehat in Urdu means health and Kahani means story. So essentially what I’m trying to do is to change the way healthcare stories are written in my country because they didn’t have a good ending right now, but we can change it collectively by making small changes to the health eco-system.” The fact that just 23 per cent of the qualified doctors join the medical workforce, only “propagates the health issues in Pakistan because the majority of their medical workforce is sitting at home while the practising doctors are rarely available to the poorest of the poor communities, where healthcare is needed the most,” said Dr Saeed elaborating on factors that led to the establishment of Sehat Kahani. “In the middle of all this, there is a lot of mobile phones, smartphone and Internet penetration in Pakistan. So, while 100 million people in that country don’t have access to healthcare, there are 155 million people who have access to technology through mobile phones. And that leads to us thinking that technology could be the solution for the people. If they can’t meet each other physically because of distances and other constraints, then we can at least link them through technology.” She went on to elaborate on how Sehat Kahani works on the ground: “We do this in two ways. For low-income communities in our country who don’t have access to smartphones or laptops themselves, we partner with nurses who have their own clinics in communities. We upgrade those clinics, and we train the nurse to use the tele-medicine software. So, when any patient comes to the clinic, they can be seen, through the nurse, by an online

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doctor using the system. The patients get their data recorded electronically. They can get e-prescriptions printed, and they can go to the pharmacy and get the medicine. For those who have a mobile phone, we have a mobile application that can connect them to a doctor 24/7 wherever they are; from the comfort of their home or their workplace.” “The female doctor that we have in the network are not only general physicians but also specialists. We have at least 40 psychiatrists and psychologists. There are only 400 psychiatrists and psychologists in Pakistan for a country of 200 million people. So mental health services are not accessible even to the elite in our country. We also make sure that everyone’s data is captured in the electronic medical record system because that’s another problem in Pakistan. We also provide access to the labs and ultrasounds in our clinics as well as through our mobile app.” To date, Dr Saeed has engaged 75 home-based female doctors and now runs 25 e-clinics across Pakistan; each administered by a nurse. Having served 900,000 patients since 2017, Dr Saeed’s plan is to expand the network to 100 e-clinics, thereby significantly increasing the number of patients who would benefit from primary healthcare. Dr Saeed’s long-term vision goes beyond Pakistan. The medical problems faced by her country is “also a big problem for the region that we live in.” says Dr Saeed. “It’s also a global problem because 3.5 billion people in the world don’t get access to qualified healthcare. My vision starts with my country, but I believe this is a global problem that we can all solve together.”

Dr Sara Saeed, Co-Founder and Chief Executive, Sehat Kahani

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AUTOMOTIVE • A NEW KIND OF LUXURY

Ram 1500 Rebel

A NEW KIND OF LUXURY The latest variants of Ram’s flagship pickups are aimed at the luxury market

Think of the phrase pickup-truck and most likely words such as bulky, cumbersome, heavy-duty and functional come to mind. Manufacturers have been trying to make them more urbane over the years by offering more and more creature comforts, and more car-like ride quality. Ram, a brand of Fiat Chrysler Automobiles, wants to take its flagship, 1500 model, to a whole new level by offering it as an everyday luxury vehicle. According to the brand, the 2019 model has undergone its most significant redesign ever to offer more capability, strength and performance, along with the latest in technology and refinement. Some critics seem to agree. The editors of Cars.com named the 2019 Ram 1500 “Best of Show” at the 2018 North American International Auto Show - “for its blend of capability, comfort, technology and efficiency.” It was also the only truck to be named on Ward’s 2018 ‘10 Best Interiors List.’ Ram offers four variants of the 1500: Big Horn, Laramie, Rebel and Limited. Each offers something different and targets a different market segment. The Limited variant is the top of the line as far as luxury features are concerned. To begin with, the interior of the new 1500 range offers more space. An additional 10 cm has also been added to the cabin, while giving rear-seat passengers the best-in-class legroom at 115 cm. Its innovative active noise cancellation system and acoustic glass combine to reduce the ambient sounds in the cabin down to 67.1 dB, making it the quietest 1500 ever. To put this into perspective, a new dishwasher generates around 70 dB. The driver and passenger of the 1500 Limited get premium leather ventilated bucket seats

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Ram 1500 Limited

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AUTOMOTIVE • A NEW KIND OF LUXURY

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Interiors of the Ram 1500 Limited

that are eight-way power-adjustable with memory. The steering wheel is wood wrapped leather. The pedals are power-adjustable with memory. The passengers at the back also get ventilated rear seats that recline up to eight-degrees along with a fold-down centre console. Leather and wood embellishments are found throughout the cabin. There is an abundance of tech in the cabin. At the centre is a 12-inch reconfigurable touchscreen display with navigation and split-screen capability for dual-application operation. The award-winning fourth generation Uconnect system, Android Auto and Apple CarPlay are standard along with a premium ten-speaker audio system. Multifunction Type-C USB ports that allow devices to be charged up to four times faster than standard USB outlets are also standard along with an integrated wireless charging pad. To make manoeuvrability and parking easier, the 1500 has a 360-degree surround-view camera that gives a birds-eye perspective of the vehicle via four cameras positioned around the vehicle to create a fully stitched image. This is in addition to the ParkSense front and rear parking sensors, Parkview rear backup camera, blind-spot and rear cross-path detection, and adaptive cruise control, all as standard. Some of the safety features include Electronic Roll Mitigation, multistage airbags, and Electronic Stability Control. The cabin has a total of 151 litres of interior storage. It includes a new centre console with 12 different storage configurations and customisation options. Outside, there are two lockable RamBox bedside storage, hidden bins and flat-load floor for cargo. The exterior of the 1500 Limited has a distinct corrugated full chrome mesh grille, stylish chrome accents, full LED headlamps

with signature lighting, power running boards, and 20-inch aluminium wheels. All the 1500 variants are powered by the legendary 5.7-litre HEMI V8 with variable-valve timing. It delivers 395 hp at 5,600 rpm and 555 newton-meter of torque. However, to maximise fuel efficiency, four of the engine’s eight cylinders can be shut off during light load operation. The engine is linked to an 8-speed automatic transmission. The 1500 sports the largest front brake rotors in the segment at 378 mm. A new electric parking brake replaces the previously foot-operated parking brake. A link-coil rear suspension system can now be coupled with an optional air suspension system that features five height settings. It not only adds up to 102mm of lift but also makes the 1500 best-in-class in several parameters: step-in height at 533.4 mm, ground clearance at 271.78 mm, departure angle of 27.8 degrees, and break-over angle of 24.2 degrees. Another benefit of the new air suspension is its load-levelling capability, by which it automatically detects load on the suspension from a trailer or payload and adjusts the vehicle to optimal and level ride height. The 1500 also boasts best-in-class aerodynamics with a 0.357 coefficient of drag, this is 9% lower than the previous model and is comparable to a regular sedan. The engineers have also reduced the overall weight by 102 kilograms compared to the previous model. The frame itself is 45 kilograms lighter, even with 98 per cent high-strength steel, thus improving durability, rigidity and handling. GCC customers of all Ram 1500 variants can benefit from Ram’s comprehensive five-year or 100,000 kilometres manufacturer warranty and service package.

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A U T O M O T I V E • A FA M I LY O F F O U R

A FAMILY OF FOUR The Mercedes-AMG GT 4-Door Coupé family now comprises four variants and a seemingly endless range of options

Mercedes-AMG introduced the GT 4-Door Coupé in 2018 for those looking for a day-to-day four-door car with sports-car-like performance in a fastback silhouette. The GT 4 “blends the impressive racetrack dynamism of our twodoor sports car with maximum suitability for everyday use. It has a unique way of embodying our brand core, ‘Driving Performance’ and with its systematic configuration, it will attract new customers for Mercedes-AMG,” according to Tobias Moers, CEO of Mercedes-AMG. Appropriately, the GT 4 draws directly from both, the pioneering concept behind the SLS sports sedan and the AMG GT two-door sports car. The first four-door to be developed

autonomously by Mercedes-AMG, the GT 4 has now been expanded to include four variants: 43, 53, 63, and 63S. The GT 43 is the entry-level variant and features the 3.0 litre turbocharged six-cylinder inline engine. It produces 367 hp and a maximum torque of 502 Nm between 1,800 and 4,500 rpm. It can accelerate from 0–100 kmph in 4.9 seconds, with a claimed top speed of 270 kmph. On the GT 53, the same engine delivers an additional 68 hp, to a total of 435hp and an additional 20 Nm of torque. The top speed goes up to 285 kmph, and the 0-100 kmph decreases to 4.5 seconds. Both are coupled with the AMG SPEEDSHIFT TCT 9G transmission.

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Mercedes-AMG GT 53 (Left) & 63S (Right)

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A U T O M O T I V E • A FA M I LY O F F O U R

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The Mercedes-AMG GT 63S

In both models, the EQ Boost starter-alternator delivers additional short-term output and torque of 22 hp and 250 Nm, respectively. The EQ Boost combines the starter and alternator in one electric motor. It is integrated between the engine and transmission, and feeds the 48 V on-board electrical system. This innovative feature combines with the intelligent twostage turbocharging to improve power delivery while reducing fuel consumption. The GT 63 and the top-of-the-line 63S model are powered by the 4.0 litre V8 with direct injection and twin turbochargers. On the 63S, the V8 can produce up to 639 hp and a peak torque of 900 Nm between 2,500 and 4,500 rpm. The 0-100 kmph acceleration is achieved in 3.2 seconds, with a top speed of 315 kmph. On the GT 63, the maximum output is 585 hp with peak torque at 800 Nm. The 0-100 kmph acceleration is achieved in 3.4 seconds while the top speed is 310 kmph. The 63S V8 engine has active engine mounts that can quickly adapt their rigidity to the respective driving conditions. This feature is available as an option on the GT 63. The layout of the twin turbochargers is borrowed directly from F1, where the two turbochargers are arranged between the cylinder banks. This results in a compact engine design and a more responsive turbocharging. Both V8s are coupled with the specially tuned SPEEDSHIFT MCT 9G 9-speed transmission.

All four variants feature the 4MATIC+ permanent allwheel drive with variable torque split and drift mode. The 63S has an electronically controlled locking differential at the rear axle as standard to deliver better grip and acceleration out of corners. The active rear-axle steering, standard in the V8s and optional in the six-cylinder versions, makes the car agile. The active aerodynamics components comprising the Airpanel - the active air control system in the front apron - and the compact, multi-stage retractable and extending rear spoiler combine to make a significant contribution towards the cars’ road grip and handling safety. Inside, the driver’s seat and front passenger seat can be configured in a wide range of options, from the sporty, comfortable seat, to a seat with elegant diamond quilting or an extremely contoured performance seat with an integral head restraint. For the rear passengers, the seating options range from an asymmetrically folding rear bench seat for the family, to two individual seats. The rear passengers can also select diverse features via a touchpad screen integrated into the console between the seats. The boot capacity is 395 litres and is supplemented by a further 60 litres beneath the boot floor. The total storage can be increased to a maximum of 1,324 litres with the backrests folded down.

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AUTOMOTIVE • NEW BEGINNINGS

NEW BEGINNINGS The first SUV by Aston Martin is set to hit the roads this year, in the region and the world

This year may prove to be a pivotal year in the long and illustrious history of the Aston Martin brand. To begin with, Aston Martin made its much-anticipated return to Bahrain with new partner Adamas Bahrain Motors. An impressive new showroom in MODA Mall is set to open in the second quarter of this year. Before that, a state-of-the-art service facility complete with high-end customer hosting capabilities is scheduled for the first quarter. The showroom will showcase the marque’s full range of Second Century models for the first time – led by their highly anticipated new flagship, the DBX – Aston Martin’s first SUV. “I can’t emphasise enough how incredibly exciting and significant DBX is for Aston Martin. Through its development alone, this beautiful SUV has already taken the company into new territories and in inspiring directions. DBX also marks a key moment in the delivery of the third and final phase of our Second Century Plan, not only representing the promised expansion of our portfolio but also signalling the start of production at Aston Martin’s second manufacturing plant,” said Aston Martin Lagonda President and Group CEO, Dr Andy Palmer. Another aspect of the DBX that sets it apart from an otherwise overtly masculine model line-up is that in its development phase, the brand accumulated “invaluable experience and knowledge from external counsel, including our Female Advisory Board,” according to Palmer. The development of the DBX began with a blank sheet, which in Automotive parlance means an entirely new dedicated SUV platform. Made from bonded aluminium, the new platform has enabled Aston Martin’s engineers to develop a body structure with class-leading cabin room for both front and rear occupants, with exceptional stiffness to deliver dynamic performances on and off-road, while also keeping the overall kerb weight at 2,245 kilograms.

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The Aston Martin DBX SIGNÉ • EDITION 37

AUTOMOTIVE • NEW BEGINNINGS

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To enhance the DBX’s ride comfort and broad functionality, adaptive triple volume air suspension has been combined with the latest 48v electric anti-roll control system (eARC) and electronic adaptive dampers. The triple volume air suspension has variable spring stiffness enabling both, luxurious comfort and dynamic prowess. It is also capable of raising the ride height by 45mm or lowering it by 50mm. The eARC, capable of 1,400Nm of anti-roll force per axle, can limit DBX’s body roll for handling that is much more akin to that of a sports car than an SUV. The power for its performance comes for the same 4-litre, twin-turbocharged V8 engine found in DB11 and Vantage, but in the DBX it has been tuned to deliver an output of 550PS (542hp) and 700NM of torque. This enables the DBX to accelerate from 0 to 100kmph in 4.5 seconds, and on to a top speed of around 290 kmph. A nine-speed torque converter automatic gearbox allied with an all-wheel-drive system allows the torque to be moved to the fore and aft in the vehicle, as well as across the rear axle. The steering system - designed to deliver sports car-like response - in combination with the active exhaust system – that can sound refined one moment and exhilarating the next – work to create the distinctive Aston Martin driver experience. As with any Aston Martin, the interior of the DBX is luxuriously handcrafted, but unlike any other, it has been designed to provide equal space and comfort for the front or rear passengers alike with class-leading headroom and legroom. A full-length glass panoramic roof and frameless

door glass invite ample light while also adding to the sense of space. The use of sports seat in the front not only provides the driver with better support and long-distance driving comfort but also offers better knee and footwell clearance for those sitting behind. The seats are trimmed in sumptuous, fullgrain Bridge of Weir leather. As an industry first, both the headlining and electric roof blinds are available in a luxurious Alcantara finish. An elegantly crafted centre console is both, a flexible storage unit and a beautiful, architectural centrepiece. ‘Q by Aston Martin’ – the marque’s personalisation service – offers optional features for this centre console such as being machined from a solid piece of wood, such as Walnut. A contemporary range of exquisite wood, composite and metal veneers are found throughout the cabin. Customisation options include a range of other innovative materials such as a fabric made from 80 per cent wool, or a new flax composite – derived from the same plant as linen – as an alternative to carbon fibre. The interior also features an abundance of technology such as the 10.25” TFT screen sits elegantly in the centre console, the 12.3” TFT screen provides a wealth of information to the driver. Apple CarPlay comes as standard, as does a 360-degree camera system and ambient lighting that offers 64 different colours in two zones. The list of driver aids is seemingly endless and transforms the task of driving the SUV into an effortless joy.

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AUTOMOTIVE • PERFORMANCE UPGRADE

PERFORMANCE UPGRADE Porsche adds the GTS versions to the Boxster and Cayman line-up

The 718 was originally used by Porsche to denote a series of road and racing cars built between 1957 to 1962. The 718s were based on the immensely successful Porsche 550A; a mid-engined compact sports car that competed in the oneto-1.5 litre engine classes, and in its first year, took the class honours in the Nürburgring Eifel race, the 24 Hours of Le Mans and the Carrera Panamericana. The latter victory led to the Carrera badge appearing on high performance Porsches. The 718 has its own tally of honours including multiple Le Mans, Targa Florio and the European Hill Climb Championship. In 1958, a modified one-seater, open-wheel version of the 718 made its, and Porsche’s, debut in FormulaTwo. It won races with the likes of Stirling Moss and Graham Hill behind the wheel. In 1961, a modified 718 became

Porsche’s first, though half-hearted, entrant into Formulaone. Today, the legacy of the 718, and by extension that of the 550A, lives on in the compact, mid-engined Porsche models that carry the 718 designation: the Boxster, Cayman and Spyder. Two of these, the Boxster and Cayman, have recently added high-performance and high-specification variants to their line-up: the 718 Boxster GTS 4.0 and the 718 Cayman GTS 4.0, respectively. Although prices have not been announced, it is expected that the new GTS 4.0 variants will slot in above the standard Boxster and Cayman models, and below the Cayman GT4 and Spyder models. The 4.0 in the model designation refers to the same fourlitre, six-cylinder boxer engine that is used in the Spyder and

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Porsche 718 Cayman GTS 4.0

Interior of the Porsche 718 Cayman GTS 4.0

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AUTOMOTIVE • PERFORMANCE UPGRADE

Porsche 718 Boxster GTS 4.0

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Interior of the Porsche 718 Boxster GTS 4.0

the Cayman GT4. When combined with the manual six-speed transmission, the latest additions to Porsche’s GTS line-up produce 400 hp, can sprint to 100 kmph in 4.5 seconds, and hit a top speed of 293 kmph. The responsive GTS engine effortlessly revs to 7,800 rpm. This engine is characterised by not just power but also efficiency. It has adaptive cylinder control which alternately switches off one of the two cylinder banks at low loads. Its direct fuel injection with piezo injectors and a variable intake system also contributes to the car’s efficiency. The GTS 4.0 models also adopt the twin tailpipe sports exhaust system from the Spyder and Cayman GT4, which, due to its saddle-type design, creates space for the contrasting black rear lower section that was specially developed for the GTS models. Available as standard, this sports exhaust system with dynamic damper control accentuates the acoustic drama produced by the boxer engine. The chassis is designed to offer an exciting driving experience by enabling agile steering and responsive cornering, and is coupled with a suspension system that is suitable for everyday use. The chassis has been lowered by 20 millimetres as compared to the standard variants and works in conjunction with the standard Porsche Active Suspension Management (PASM). The PASM sports suspension, available as an option, lowers the body by just 10 millimetres. Other standard equipment includes performanceorientated components such as Porsche Stability Management (PSM) with selectable PSM Sport mode, the Sport Chrono package including the Porsche Active

Drivetrain Mounts (PADM) and Porsche Torque Vectoring (PTV) with mechanical limited slip rear differential. Both of the 718 GTS cars are fitted with 20-inch light-alloy wheels in Satin-Gloss Black and high-performance tyres as standard. The enhanced brake system features cross-drilled discs and red callipers. Porsche Ceramic Composite Brakes (PCCB) are available as an option. Dark contrasting details on the cars’ exterior hint at their enhanced performance credentials. These details appear on the spoiler lip, air intake of the front apron, the front fog light lenses, the rear light lenses and the redesigned lower rear bumper. In the interior, dark Alcantara creates a sporty yet elegant ambience. It features on the centre panels of the standard Sport Seats Plus, as well as the steering wheel rim, centre console, gear lever and the armrests on both doors. In the 718 Cayman GTS 4.0, it also covers the A-pillars and the roof lining. The optional GTS interior package offers the addition of another colour with the choice between Carmine Red or Chalk. These accentuate the rev counter, seat belts and all decorative seams, including the embroidered GTS emblem in the headrests and the Porsche lettering on the floor mats with black borders. The trim elements as well as the centre console trim are made of carbon. The 718 GTS 4.0 models come with the Porsche Communication Management (PCM) as standard. It features a high-resolution seven-inch touchscreen and the Sport Chrono package along with the options of either a BOSE or Burmester High-End Surround Sound System.

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ART & DESIGN • ABSTRACT ARABIA

ABSTRACT ARABIA An exhibition in New York explores the abstract art of the Arab world during a very transformative period in its history

The second half of the 20th century - the 1950s through to the 1980s - was a period of great transformation in the Arab World. It was a period that witnessed the beginning of the end of colonialism, the rise and fall of Arab nationalism, experiments in socialism and industrial capitalism, wars and subsequent mass migrations, the oil boom and the formations of new states in the Arabian Gulf. It was a period that challenged the Arab world to define itself within an ether that was in a state of dynamic flux. The challenge of defining oneself was taken up by the intellectual class in the Arab world. A significant component of this class comprised of abstract artists who had adopted a Western approach to art, reinterpreted it to explore their own world, and in the process, challenged and renewed traditional art. They strove to make art relevant to their own political, cultural, and historical contexts. This highly significant period in Middle-Eastern and NorthAfrican art is explored through an exhibition titled, “Taking Shape: Abstraction from the Arab World, 1950s–1980s.” It is a collaborative project between the Barjeel Art Foundation in Sharjah and New York University’s Grey Art Gallery. The exhibition - curated and organized by Suheyla Takesh, Curator at the Barjeel Art Foundation and Lynn Gumpert, Director of the Grey Art Gallery – is on display until April 4, 2020, at the Grey Art Gallery in New York City. It features nearly 90 works that include paintings, sculptures, and works on paper by a diverse group of artists from Algeria, Egypt, Iraq, Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Morocco, Palestine, Qatar, Sudan, Syria, Tunisia, and the UAE. “It is very appropriate that, as a university museum, the Grey broadens vistas and looks closely at art made over the four decades in question by individuals that come from so many different nations, with different belief systems and histories. We chose an exhibition title, Taking Shape, that recognizes and conveys to the public that our approach to abstraction in the Arab world is not static—even with regards to the art of this defined time frame—but is, rather, in formation,” commented Lynn Gumpert. One of the driving forces behind the abstract movement in the Arab world was the emergence of new artist groups across the region. One of the earliest was the Baghdad Group for Modern Art, founded in 1951. The group sourced Mesopotamian archaeological objects, cuneiform symbols and locally found motifs as inspiration for its aesthetic. Shakir

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Abdallah Benanteur (Algeria) To Monet, Giverny, 1983 Oil on canvas,47 1/4 x 47 1/4 in. Collection of the Barjeel Art Foundation, Sharjah, UAE

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ART & DESIGN • ABSTRACT ARABIA

Etel Adnan (Lebanon) Autumn in Yosemite Valley, 1963–1964 Oil on canvas, 20 1/8 x 20 1/8 in. Collection of the Barjeel Art Foundation, Sharjah, UAE

Ahmed Cherkaoui (Morocco) Les miroirs rouges (Red Mirrors), 1965 Oil on jute, 9 1/4 x 11 1/4 in. Collection of the Barjeel Art Foundation, Sharjah, UAE

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Hassan Al Said, one of the group’s most prominent members, published the “Contemplative Art Manifesto,” in which he advocates for a meditative and transcendental approach to art. Another movement, called Hurufiyya, explored the potential of the Arabic letter, freed from the constraints of classical Islamic calligraphic rules. They saw the Arabic letters as visual and compositional elements. Iraqi artist Madiha Umar is often cited as a progenitor of the movement. Others, influenced by the principles of Sufism, used the same letters to explore spiritual concepts. Egyptian Omar El-Nagdi’s work, for example, was characterized by rhythmic abstractions that bear formal resemblance to alif, the first letter of the Arabic alphabet. Another, Sudanese Ibrahim ElSalahi combined rhythmic articulation of the Arabic alphabets with the abstraction of African sculptural forms. The Casablanca School, a collective founded by prominent artists including Mohamed Chebaa, Farid Belkahia, Mohamed Melehi and other, studies and reinterprets the local Islamic and Amazigh art forms through traditional geometric painting, engraving, mosaic ornaments, carpets, Islamic patterns and the Amazigh tattoo symbols. Similarly, the Aouchem group based in Algeria also sought to reinterpret local symbolism and body art through abstract compositions. Geometry and mathematics were the other main guiding principles for many abstract artists in the Arab world, who drew inspiration from Islamic decorative patterns, architecture, carpets, and textiles. Lebanese artists Saloua Choucair, Saliba Douaihy and Etel Adnan, along with Palestinian artist Samia Halaby, are prominent names in this field of exploration. The exhibition is accompanied by a 256-page book co-edited by Takesh and Gumpert. It is a book of essays by prominent personalities from the world of arts and culture, including three UAE-based authors – Salwa Mikdadi, Associate Professor, Practice of Art History, NYU Abu Dhabi; Sultan Sooud Al Qassemi, founder of the Barjeel Art Foundation, and lecturer and researcher on social, political, and cultural affairs in the GCC region; and Suheyla Takesh. The exhibition will next travel to the Mary and Leigh Block Museum of Art, Northwestern University, between April 28 and July 26, 2020. Then to the Herbert F. Johnson Museum at Cornell University from August 22 to December 13. In 2021, the exhibition will travel to the McMullen Museum of Art at Boston College, between January 25 and June 6, and finally to the University of Michigan Museum of Art from June 25 to September 19.

Kamal Boullata (Palestine) Al-Zahir-al-Batin (The Manifest, The Hidden), 1983 Silkscreen, 25 3/4 x 15 3/4 in. Collection of the Barjeel Art Foundation, Sharjah, UAE

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L A D O L C E V I TA • P L A N N I N G A PA R A D I S E

PLANNING A PARADISE Signé speaks with Darren Gibson, CEO of Montenegro’s Luštica Development by the Orascom Group

Darren Gibson joined Luštica Development by Orascom with over 25 years of experience in public and private sector urban development. It includes eight-plus years as a Company Director in urban planning and development consultancy practices in Australia and six years as Vice President of Planning & Development for the Egyptian Resort Company in Egypt. Mr Gibson holds a Bachelor’s degree in Town Planning from the University of New South Wales, Sydney, Australia. He is also accredited as a Certified Practicing Planner by the Planning Institute of Australia. Luštica Bay is nestled on the hilly Adriatic coast near the entrance to the UNESCO world heritage site of the Bay of Kotor in southwestern Montenegro. At 690 hectares, this luxury residential and lifestyle development is the country’s only greenfield investment project and the largest in South-Eastern Europe. When finished, the ultimate green-friendly destination, will offer more than 1,500 accommodation units that will range from waterfront residences offering a Riviera lifestyle

to charming hillside townhouses and exclusive, private villas. There will also be seven hotels, a town centre, two world-class marinas with a total of 225 berthings, an 18-hole championship standard golf course, a wellness and spa centre, shopping, dining, schools and health care facilities. The location and landscape also offer ample opportunities for water-sports and outdoor activities. How did you come into the project, and what has been your contribution thus far? I’ve been here for over five years now. I was working for a company in Egypt through which I became familiar with a number of Orascom’s management team and had met our chairman. They asked me if I would be interested in doing something with Orascom. Knowing their portfolio, I was happy to have that conversation. I was shown the project in Montenegro, which at that time was literally some concrete on the ground. We looked at the master plan, to understand the development a little bit better, and I was sold almost

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immediately upon understanding the ambition for the project. When I joined, the master plan had been resolved, but the initial work that informed the master plan was from a much earlier time, and things had moved on in terms of market expectations. So, we made some adjustments to some elements within the master plan, particularly around our village and the golf area. How does Orascom approach a project? Our chairman always speaks about long term vision and investment horizons, with a view to making a contribution to the destinations within which we’re working. Our master plan reflects the objectives, broadly speaking, of both, the government and Orascom. Obviously, that’s critical in terms of the synergy or the alignment of both entities. If you look at our market plans generally, you’ll see similar elements in most of the destinations in which we are working. You’ll see it in Egypt, in Oman, in the UAE. I think one of the reasons why

Darren Gibson, CEO, Montenegro’s Luštica Development by the Orascom Group (Photo: Courtesy of Luštica Bay)

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L A D O L C E V I TA • P L A N N I N G A PA R A D I S E

Luštica Bay 88

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Orascom is successful as a tenderer is because the types of projects that we undertake, align with the government’s vision about the future. What has been achieved thus far at Luštica Bay, and what’s pending? In the first five years, we’ve completed all the critical elements: the first hotel, the marina, and the real estate around it. We are currently in the process of finalizing our next five-year plan, in which we want to consolidate some of the other areas: the golf course, for example. We are progressing quickly. We are also designing the second five-star hotel in the marina village, which will be a larger hotel than the Chedy Hotel. We’re hoping to encourage a local and regional permanent population base for the project to make it sustainable. The Centrale will have a lot of social and cultural activities, services and facilities. The supermarkets will be here, a school, a medical facility with the potential to grow into a hospital, a range of community buildings, and a range of emergency services including police, fire and ambulance. In the next five-year period, we’re aiming at between 500 and 800 permanent residents or residing longer

than six months. For the full build, we’re expecting around 3,000 to 3,500 people. Taking into account permanents and holidaymakers, we are expecting somewhere in the order of 10,000 to 12,000 people as a peak population. To give you some context, that puts us around just under the population of Tivat, the nearest town. How active is the Montenegrin government in terms of support and promotion? We have a lease and development agreement for 90 years with the Montenegrin government and the Tivat Municipality. A critical part of that agreement is the delivery of infrastructure that’s necessary to develop and maintain the towns. The government has been playing its part through significant investment in the last couple of years on road infrastructure as well as water, electricity, and others. The government understands and is committed to its obligations to ensure that we’re in a position to deliver on our promise. In terms of promotion, the government has two entities. One is the national tourism authority, and then each municipality has its own

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tourism organization. We are in contact with and co-operating with both of these entities. But we’re also running our own significant destination piece related to our own project, which is also positioning Montenegro. What advice would you put forward to investors planning similar projects in Montenegro? In these types of destinations that are trying to raise their socioeconomic standard of living and improve their economies, you’ve got to be patient. You’ve got to work collaboratively with people and learnings happen on both sides. The idea of a market economy here is something that’s not cultural; it’s second nature to a lot of people. So, an education process is underway on how development occurs, investment occurs, on the legislative and regulatory needs, as well as the skill sets and knowledge of the workers. If you talk to the locals, they will tell you that the changes in the last ten years have been exponential. So, we are very positive about the future because we can see the change and the clear vision and desire among the authorities to bring about the changes that make things happen.

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

MU-SO 2ND GENERATION BY NAIM An upgrade to the multiple awardwinning and one of the best all-in-one audio systems around. Although very similar in appearance to the original, Naim claims that 95 per cent of the G2 system is new. It has 13 per cent more internal volume to enable a bigger bass; it has better suppression of vibrations, and its distinctive heatsink fins are now more compact. It has better connectivity. A 3.5mm analogue input, HDMI with ARC, and

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USB can connect Mu-so to a TV. Apple AirPlay 2, Google Chromecast, Tidal, Spotify Connect, Internet Radio, UPnP (Universal Plug and Play) and Bluetooth can be used to input music from just about any source. The updated Naim app allows the user to browse and select music along with artwork and extended information. It can also be used to control volume, light settings, room modes and create playlists.

CHROME-PLATED MODERN RAZOR SHAVING SET BY MARRAM CO Beautifully designed and masculine style, it is a three-piece premium shaving set comprising a bowl, brush and razor. The stainless-steel lathering bowl is deep enough to richly lather the cream without overflow. The silvertip brush, made with badger hair bristles, has a short, wide rubber handle for a firm grip. The brush perfectly stacks onto the shaving bowl. The functional and stylish razor features a twist-up mechanism to eject the Gillette Fusion blade for easy cleaning. It’s weighty, masculine and comfortable to grip. The stainless steel in all three pieces have matching polished chrome finish.

ROLLER MK01 FOLDABLE ALUMINIUM AND STAINLESS STEEL HEADPHONES BY LUZLI Over-ear headphones made from aluminium and stainless steel that deliver premium sound quality. Drawing inspiration from watch straps, the foldable headband consists of 22 springs and 13 links that roll over one another. The set is hand made with eight-point height adjustment. It comes with a wooden display case which also contains a 30mm driver, detachable 1.5m OCC cable, two pairs of memory foam clip-on earpads, and cleaning cloth. It also has a suede travel bag. Engraved nameplates can be customised as per request.

SKYLINE CHESS

GREETING POUR-OVER COFFEE STAND BY bi.du. haev An elegant yet practical pour-over coffee stand. The hand-blown glass dripper has vortex-like ridges on the inside which is designed to deliver the perfect draining speed with smoothness. The copper stopcock offers easy control. The copper and bronze structure comes with Merbau or a choice of another wood-stand and knitted sleeve. The wooden base is 21x19 cm. The conical dipper has a circumference of 12 cm and a height of 10 cm. The bottle has a volume of 450 cc. The device can be used to make tea as well. It comes packed in a presentation box.

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Conceived by two London-based architectural designers, Chris Prosser and Ian Flood, who transformed the most recognisable architectural landmarks of London, Manhattan, San Francisco, Dubai, and Paris into chess pieces. Hong Kong and Shanghai are next. In the Dubai Edition, for example, Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum’s House replaces the pawns, The Cayan Tower makes an elegant rook, the Burj al Arab is knight, the Rose Rotana is the bishop, the Princess Tower is the queen, and the Burj Khalifa is the king. Each set comes complete with a board and presentation box. The bespoke option offers a range of different materials and designs.

L A D O L C E V I TA • R A R E S O U N D

RARE SOUND A brief review of Bang & Olufsen’s new and limited Contrast Collection 1. Bang & Olufsen recently unveiled the Contrast Collection – a limited-edition eight-piece collection created in collaboration with Danish design studio Norm Architects. “The Contrast Collection is a timeless interpretation of current interior trends focusing on tactility and textures. The combination of colour tones, materials and surfaces makes the collection a unique, new offering in a timeless design. The products are not only aesthetically aligned – they also deliver amazing Bang & Olufsen Signature Sound,” says Kresten Bjørn Krab-Bjerre, Design Director at Bang & Olufsen. The collaboration set out to explore new ways of working with a material that has become an integral and ubiquitous part of the Bang & Olufsen design aesthetic – aluminium. They wanted to turn the mirror-like aluminium into a soft and warm spectrum of colours that could highlight the textures applied to the aluminium. The resulting light grey and anthracite (an earthy, nearly black grey) colour tones of the collection were created, according to the brand, from the same master sample of anthracite that was completed at the anodising treatment facility at Bang & Olufsen headquarters. The aluminium experts of Bang & Olufsen also managed to create for the collection a distinctive brushed aluminium texture. The fruit of countless experiments with different surface treatments, it does not appear on any other Bang & Olufsen collection. The challenge: there is a delicate balance between presenting a brushed effect as deliberate and controlled, as opposed to it appearing to be the result of damage or shoddy workmanship. The process began with hand brushing pieces of flat aluminium, then implementing it on a curved texture with a robot rotating the cone. Once the final ‘surface finish’ was approved, the process had to be fully automated, using machines and robots for the actual production process. The collection also features Bang & Olufsen’s first transparent wool-based-fabric, developed in collaboration with Danish design textile company Kvadrat in 2015. For the Contrast Collection, the designers chose this material because it enabled them to bring more tactility to the products and to integrate them more beautifully with the decor. The fabric – made of wool and viscose – has excellent durability, while viscose adds brilliance and depth to the colour. The original version uses thick yarns, so the structure has been loosened to deliver high acoustic performance, while maintaining its rich texture.

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Bang & Olufsen Contrast Collection: 1. Beosound Shape 2. Beosound 1 3. Beosound 2 4. Beoplay A9 5. Beosound Edge 6. Beosound Stage SIGNÉ • EDITION 37

L A D O L C E V I TA • R A R E S O U N D

Bang & Olufsen Beoplay H9 wireless headphones and Beoplay A1

Bang & Olufsen Beosound 2

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The Contrast Collection consists of eight of Bang & Olufsen’s most popular speakers and wireless headphones: Beoplay A1, the ultra-portable Bluetooth speaker with a premium brushed aluminium grill and mottled tactile base. It has the new “Natural Brushed” finish. Beoplay H9, the premium wireless ANC headphones with a minimalist soft touch feel and a subtle, mottled concrete look on the housing. Colours: Grey Mist and Anthracite. Beoplay A9, the wireless, iconic design speaker with an anodised dark metal frame and light fabric to integrate into any home. Colour: Anthracite. Beosound Stage, the powerful soundbar that is designed to enhance one’s TV experience. It features the wool-viscose fabric with linear elements and an emphasised horizontal weave. Colour: Anthracite. Beosound Shape, the modular two-piece speaker system with a horizontal weave in two colourways - Grey Define and Dark Grey Define – both of which complement the dark oak panel. Beosound Edge, the compact and powerful wireless speaker with thin, matte aluminium for elegance featuring the wool-viscose fabric for strength and durability. Colour: Anthracite. Beosound 1, the portable smart speaker that is uniquely treated for a sandblasted effect, resulting in a soft minimalistic feel that invites the touch. Colour: Anthracite. Beosound 2, the powerful speaker system with anodised aluminium and strong contrasts to allow the brush lines to be visible. It has the new “Natural Brushed” finish.

Bang & Olufsen Beosound Edge

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L A D O L C E V I TA • A G R O W I N G PA S S I O N

A GROWING PASSION An exclusive interview with Chef Michael Mina, founder of the Mina Group

Born in Cairo, Egypt, and raised in Ellensburg, Washington, Chef Michael Mina is an American celebrity chef, restaurateur, and cookbook author who has cooked for three United States Presidents. He is also the founder of the restaurant management company Mina Group, which operates over 40 restaurants in the US and the Mina Brasserie in Dubai. Chef Mina began his career at the age of 16, in a French restaurant in his hometown. After high school, Mina attended the University of Washington while also working in the kitchen at the Space Needle in Seattle. He left after a year to enroll at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. After graduation, he worked in Los Angeles’ Bel Air Hotel under Executive Chef George Morrone. When the latter moved to San Francisco to work on the concept that would become the famed Aqua restaurant, Mina followed him. Following Morrone’s departure from Aqua, Mina became executive chef and earned numerous awards including Michelin Stars. In 2002, Chef Mina met Andre Agassi, and the two joined forces to start The Mina Group. In 2012, Chef Mina launched Cook Taste Eat, a digital culinary media company, through which, he teaches viewers how to prepare restaurant-quality meals along with cohost Michelle Branch. In 2018, the Mina Group opened Mina Brasserie at DIFC featuring innovative and thoughtfully curated dishes such as za’atar-spiced salmon, caviar with shallot-potato cake, and wood-fired

lamb chops. The environment is elegant yet informal. The outdoor terrace offers lounge seating with lush green plants, giving the brasserie an enticing warmth. The bar serves aperitifs and hard-to-find spirits from around the world, along with an in-depth wine list featuring special library collections from Burgundy, Bordeaux, and California. You stepped into the culinary world at the age of 16. How did your passion for food begin? My passion for food began at home, from my mother. Growing up in a Middle Eastern household, food is the centre of the table, and you’re at the table for many hours. Food for me has always been about family and community. Who do you see as your inspiration? The people that led the way – the Bocuses and Escoffiers of our world. As a chef, what does earning a Michelin star mean to you? It means everything; it’s the highest honour you can receive. Not only is it a great personal goal, but it’s great to justify your staff’s hard work. People outside of the restaurant industry might not see the excruciating work that goes into achieving a goal like this, and the award really validates your team. What has been the most rewarding moment in your career? There isn’t really a moment – it’s the people that you’ve been able to affect and the people you’ve met along the way, but if I really had to choose a moment, it

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would be the first time my parents dined at my first restaurant. What is your recipe for success? As cliché as it sounds, success is 100% about the people you work with and your team. Honestly, I look for people that have the ability to befriend people – anyone that you hire should have the ability to build authentic relationships. Where do you find the inspiration to create new dishes? I find inspirations from my travels and understanding the globe. Tell us about the new menu you have created for MINA Brasserie at DIFC. The new menu really exemplifies the spirit of a brasserie mixed with technique and global flavours that reflect our diverse clientele. What would be that one dish to not miss from the new menu? The Trio of Crudos is the perfect way to start any meal – and of course, the Phyllo-Crusted Dover Sole. What is your advice for young chefs who dream of earning a Michelin star one day? Enjoy the journey! And understand that frustration is a chance to show relentlessness and perseverance. With more than 30 dining concepts, you have built a restaurant empire. What is your next big plan? To make it through today!

Chef Michael Mina, Founder, Mina Group

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L A D O L C E V I TA • R E S TA U R A N T S

CAVIAR TREATS The Beluga restaurant is all about Caviar, the very best kind

Beluga by Gourmet House Caviar is the first and only dining experience in Dubai curated wholly around just one special ingredient – caviar. Inspired by a modern take on classic French cuisine, the menu has an impressive selection of Sturgeon caviar such as Huso Huso, Acipenser Baerii, Russian Oscietra, and Sevruga, among others. The signature dish features the most expensive caviar in the world, the 24-karat Gold Almas Caviar, topped with 24-karat gold flakes. Other highlights include Tsar Alexei with salmon flower and white Sturgeon caviar vinaigrette, the Red Carabinero Tartar with salmon caviar, and the Caviar Aux Datte, a locally inspired dessert. Complementing the menu is an assortment of dry bubbly,

tempting cocktails and a retail section of caviar to-go. The staff are trained to guide guests through their caviar choices. Located in the lobby of Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, on Jumeirah Beach Road, the venue is ideal for business

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meetings, after-work Aperitivo or a romantic dinner with its well-appointed interior. Gourmet House Caviar, a leader in the caviar industry since 1965, which manages farms from Europe to China, have equipped their farms with the most technologically advanced systems to produce the highest quality caviar. “As pioneers of the caviar industry, we look forward to sharing the Beluga experience with this region. We aim to create a oneof-a-kind enriching culinary experience whilst educating guests about this exquisite delicacy,” says Ali Mahmoudi, President of Gourmet House Caviar.

BELUGA Mandarin Oriental Jumeira +971 4 340 8882

RESURRECTING A CLASSIC Bull & Bear at the Waldorf Astoria, DIFC, serves some classics reinterpreted

Located on the 18th floor of the Waldorf Astoria, DIFC, Bull & Bear is the hotel’s signature restaurant serving imaginative cuisine inspired by the all-time classics that were served at the original restaurant, once located at the Waldorf Astoria, New York. The interior features a rich blue, gold and black colour palette, while tastefully incorporating a mix of timber, metal and leather. The furniture is contemporary and complemented by hand-forged iron-clad sculptures, including the bull and bear statues that greet guests as they arrive. The high elevation combined with the floor-toceiling windows that wrap around the venue, treat guests to stunning views of the city, day or night.

For breakfast, diners can choose from a variety of à la carte served to the table, or The Bull & Bear Breakfast set with unlimited servings and the chef’s table selection. For lunch and dinner, guests will be spoilt for choice with a variety of tender meats, with vegan and seafood alternatives. Signature dishes

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include the Bear - a Black Angus beef burger on a potato bun with smoked cheddar and tomato jam; the Bull - a seasoned potato, soya bean and carrot slider; the Prawn Cocktail - local tiger prawns infused with Eastern flavours and grilled; the Sardinian Fregola – an elevated “pasta meets couscous” dish comprising cured beef ham, poached hen’s egg, parmesan and seasonal mushrooms. Signature desserts include the hazelnut chocolate fondant Ring The Bell or the fruity alternative, The Big Apple.

BULL & BEAR Waldorf Astoria, DIFC +971 4 515 9999

L A D O L C E V I TA • S PA

A HOLISTIC FORMULA ShuiQi Spa at Atlantis is a haven of relaxation and well-being

Shui is water, and Qi is the flow of energy. The two come together to form the essence of the award-winning ShuiQi Spa at Atlantis. Spanning two magnificent floors within the unique settings of West wing of The Royal Towers of Atlantis, ShuiQi Spa is a haven for pure relaxation where you can indulge in luxurious spa treatments. The spa also offers now a choice of ten new treatments in partnership with [comfort zone], a “C02 neutral” skincare brand of the Italian Davines Group. Founded in 1996 by Dr Davide Bollati, the group takes a science-based holistic approach for [comfort zone], which includes an array of spa treatments, homecare products and lifestyle advice. Its formulae are a blend of natural-origin ingredients and high-tech molecules along with its innovative Longevity Complex - a blend of organic wild indigo, spinach, maqui berry and carnosine for an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory action to help repair and protect the skin from stress. They are free from animal derivatives, synthetic fragrance, artificial colourants, mineral oils, parabens and silicones. ShuiQi Spa offers 27 treatment rooms, and separate male and

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female relaxation and changing areas. Guests can also enjoy a secluded Royal Spa Suite and spa wet facilities for downtime. The Product House, in collaboration with Atlantis, has created an integrated and bespoke offering of [comfort zone] products that are being showcased at a modularized retail outlet.

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ShuiQi Spa Atlantis, The Palm, Dubai +9714 426 1020

AN ESSENCE OF ARABIA The Spa at Mandarin Oriental Jumeira brings the best of the brand’s spa treatments to Dubai, plus two local exclusives The 2,000-square-metre spa is inspired by the desert landscape with the layout following the lines of undulating sand dunes, all designed to invite guests to switch off and unwind. A stylish ground floor features a reception area, a waiting lounge, a solid marble retail space, private consultation rooms and an imposing staircase leading to the upper level, where there are nine treatment rooms, including a hammam-style suite, a VIP suite, indoor vitality pools, dry saunas, steam rooms, heated relaxation lounges, experience showers and ice fountains. Arched walls provide separation between each dune space, creating a range of zones where guests can relax. Ambient lighting, cool marble and warm timber enhance the calming feel of the space. The hammam-style suite has a modern touch with exclusive Gharieni’s Libra Edge K bed equipped with a special shower feature that provides a unique choreography of varying water temperatures and pressure controlled via an interactive control panel. The spa offers all the Mandarin Oriental signature treatments, including Oriental Harmony for jet lag and the Digital Wellness Escape to combat the effects of technology. There are two signature Essence of Arabia therapies: Nomadic Sensory and Royal Saffron. Both treatments, exclusive for the Dubai spa, use locally-sourced artisanal products and hand-blended aromatics

such as indigenous herbs, saffron and mogra – the queen of Jasmines. The Nomadic Sensory treatment is accompanied by the rhythmic beat of a Doumbek - Arabic goblet drum. Other treatments include Oriental Essence focusing on the traditional stress-holding areas of the back, neck and shoulders, Blissful Marma for effective and immediate relaxation, Champagne Rose facial for an energized skin, 24K Gold AgeDefying Facial for reducing fine lines, among others.

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The Spa Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai +971 4 777 2243

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The Rixos Bab Al Bahr Resort

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ALL-INCLUSIVE RETREAT The Rixos Bab Al Bahr in Ras Al Khaimah offers hassle-free luxury getaways

The Dubai based Rixos Hotels group - a member of the Global Hotel Alliance since 2013 specialises in offering premium-hospitality with allinclusive and family-friendly venues. Founded in Antalya, Turkey, in 2000, the group now operates over 35 hotels and properties under the Rixos brand in Turkey, Egypt, Kazakhstan, Russia, Switzerland, Croatia and four in the UAE. Two of them are in Dubai - Premium Dubai at Jumeirah Beach Residence and the Palm Dubai Hotel and Suites – and one in Abu Dhabi - Premium Saadiyat Island. The fourth one, and our subject of this review, is the Bab Al Bahr luxury resort at Ras Al Khaimah’s Marjan Island. Comprising four man-made islands and a peninsula with a total area of nearly three million square-metres and some eight kilometres of beaches, Al Marjan is Ras Al Khaimah’s premium waterfront residential and hospitality destination; about 20 minutes from the city. Bab Al Bahr, located at the base of Al Marjan, was the first of the premium hospitality developments to become operational. True to the group’s ethos, Bab Al Bahr is a familyfriendly luxury resort specialising in all-inclusive packages - the price includes accommodation plus unlimited food and beverage at any of its 14 venues for breakfast, lunch and dinner, access to entertainment, kids clubs, the spa, sports and recreational activities. There are a few exceptions that carry an extra charge, but they are clearly mentioned and are often related to exceptional services. The group’s Turkish roots are evident at Bab Al Bahr in terms of architecture, cuisine and approach to hospitality. The rectangular beach-front property comprises a central structure with six independent accommodation buildings on either side. The central structure houses a lobby cum reception area, dining and entertainment

venues, the spa and the conference and banquet halls. The dining venues are oriented towards the beachfront and have a water feature snaking along their edges, which combine to create an exceptional dining and entertainment ambience. The three accommodation buildings on the northern side are residences, while the three on the southern side are accommodations for the resort. All six buildings have similar step-pyramid like architecture, which means the balconies are terraced with views of the sea or the coastline. The interior is minimalist-chic featuring natural shades of soft blues and browns that complement the exterior views. The resort’s 650 rooms and suites feature cushioned headboards, lush carpets with wave patterns and marble-clad bathrooms. The amenities include a premium coffee maker, a generous bouquet of complimentary snacks, a safe deposit box, satellite TV and internet. The bathrooms feature rain showers, hairdryers, vanity mirrors, and bathtubs. Requests for breakfasts are taken the night before with options for guests with food allergies and intolerances. The staff are friendly and provide exceptional service. The King penthouse suite, with 190 square-metres of floor space, is the largest accommodation at the resort. It encloses three bedrooms with king-sized beds, a lounge, a terrace balcony and four bathrooms. By contrast, the Senior Suites are located on the ground floor and have three bedrooms - one kingsized and two twins – along with a sitting room, terrace balcony and four bathrooms. The Junior Suite is also on the ground floor but with two bedrooms one king-sized and one twin. It has a lounge, terrace balcony and three bathrooms. The Family Suite offers two bedrooms – one king-sized and one twin bed with a connecting privacy door.

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Rixos Bab Al Bahr King Suite

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Beach view from the resort

Guests are spoilt for choice when it comes to dining. Seven Heights, one of the largest all-day buffet restaurants in the UAE, serves an array of world cuisines, along with live cooking stations and a barbeque. In addition, there are six à la carte restaurants, six bars and lounges, and a night club. Of the six à la carte restaurants, Fish Bone specialises in seafood, Lalezar Restaurant and Meat Point focus on Middle Eastern cuisine with a focus of Ottoman culinary tradition, L’Olivo serves rustic Italian dishes, Aja serves dishes from the Far-East, while Toast’n Burger serves continental. Similarly, Infinity Bar and Su Bar are poolside venues. Sea & See is on the beach serving tropical cocktails, snacks and shishas. Cigar Bar offers the finest cigars, beverages, tea and coffee blends from around the world. The Mojito Bar is a popular venue serving classic and innovative cocktails. Inferno is the resort’s premium nightclub with exclusive VIP lounges. The resort offers diverse entertainment options for families, groups of friends or couples which change seasonally. During the winter months, the majority of the activities are organised in the swimming pools, the beach or the waters of the Arabian Gulf. The evening entertainment features performances by professional artists and acrobats at the Entertainment Square, the multi-purpose amphitheatre that is surrounded by five of the resort’s dining venues. In the summer months, not surprisingly, the activities and entertainment move indoors. The resort’s private beach is 345-metres long with a portion of it reserved for those who book the private beach cabanas, which come with full food and beverage service. The resort has eight swimming pools: an aqua park, four outdoor pools,

including a large activity pool, an infinity pool and a dedicated children’s pool. In the water, guests can go diving or partake in numerous motorised and non-motorised water sports. On land, the resort offers basketball, tennis, football, volleyball, table tennis, billiards, table football and darts among others. Organised classes at the fitness centre include Pilates, Yoga, Zumba, Stretching, and Water gym. A wide range of activities for children are organised by the Rixy Kids Club and Teen’s Republic. The resort boasts the largest spa facilities in Ras Al Khaimah, comprising two equally sized spas for men and women. The centrepiece of each spa is the Turkish Hammam, graced by traditional decor and topped by an imposing dome. Each spa also has a secluded private swimming pool area, steam room, sauna, ice fountain and a quiet space. The Turkish Hammam, while complimentary as a self-service, is subject to availability. Spa treatments that carry extra charge are mostly for those provided by Avitane - a specialist in spa and beauty treatments. These extras include the Turkish Hammam treatment; a selection of popular massages such as the Balinese, Swedish, Thai and Hot Stone therapy; Avitane’s signature treatments including couples’ packages, reflexology, body wraps, exfoliation and facial treatments. Avitane also offers salon services at the resort. Bab Al Bahr, given its location and its offerings, is ideal for those who prefer a hassle-free weekend getaway in a tranquil and idyllic location; a resort where almost everything on offer is complementary, where one is spoilt for choice when it comes to dining and entertainment options, and where hospitality comes naturally.

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CHIC GREEN IN PHILIPPINES El Nido Resort’s Pangulasian Island retreat is designed to be a holistic eco-luxury resort

The Philippines is an archipelago of some 7,100 islands sprawled across the western Pacific Ocean. It is one of the greatest underappreciated tropical holiday destinations with innumerable pristine beaches, rich coral beds, stunning geological features, emerald paddy fields, towering coconut groves, and inhabited by jovial and hospitable people. On the western part of this country is Palawan, an archipelago of 1,780 islands, known as “The Last Ecological Frontier of the Philippines;” because of its scenic landscapes and rich biodiversity. It also has the highest concentration of islands while being the most sparsely populated region in the country. The northern part of Palawan province is a treasure trove for nature lovers. It is blessed with its ancient limestone cliffs, lush tropical forests, more than 100 species of birds, marine sanctuaries teeming with innumerable species of tropical fish and coral, and is home to five species of endangered sea turtles. This region is also the home of El Nido Resorts; a group of island resorts focused on sustainability. It prides itself in offering genuine local hospitality combined with unique experiences derived from the natural bounty of the location. El Nido Resorts comprises four beach-front resorts located on four islands: Apulit Island is an eco-adventure resort. Miniloc Island is more suited for those looking for a romantic getaway. Lagen Island is ideal for a relaxing holiday in a private and tranquil island. The fourth resort, and the subject of this feature, is Pangulasian Island - an eco-luxury resort nestled between a pristine beach and tropical forest with modern comforts, amenities, and well-appointed villas. The resort can be reached by a 55-minutes scheduled flight from Manila to El Nido’s Lio airport, followed by a 30-45-minutes boat ride. Located on the southern tip of the island, the resort offers breath-taking views of both the sunrise and the sunset. It has a 750-meter stretch of secluded white sand beach for guests to laze away the time. A step into the water is a step into a marine sanctuary. The resort offers a total of 42 deluxe accommodations featuring an aesthetic that combines contemporary Filipino influences with the latest innovations in green design. Each villa has a floor area of 65 sqm, plus a 15 sqm private balcony. They can accommodate up to three persons. Villa features and amenities include air-conditioning, Wi-Fi access, satellite TV, iPod dock, mini-bar, and coffee and tea-making facilities, among others. Of the 42 accommodations, 24 are Beach Villas offering direct access to the resort’s pristine beach while also being located close to the resort’s centre and pool. There are eight Canopy Villas perched on stilts 15 to 18 metres above the ground offering expansive views of the island’s greenery. These are the only accommodations that have bathtubs. The six Pool Villas each have a balcony that opens onto a 22 Sqm private pool with views of the bay. The four Kalaw Villas, located on a secluded cove, form a cluster to offer the most private accommodation on the resort. They share an 85 sqm lap pool and a 55 sqm ‘Kalaw sala’ which can be used for private dinners and intimate gatherings. Amianan Restaurant is the resort’s main dining area serving daily buffet breakfast and à la carte dishes for lunch and dinner. Guests have the option of dining in an air-conditioned area or al fresco. The cuisine caters to the international palate with most of the menu items adhering to

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El Nido Resort’s Pangulasian Island (Photo: Courtesy of El Nido Resorts)

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the sustainability practices of the resort. It also serves signature cocktails, mocktails and a wide selection of wines. At the centre of the resort is an infinity pool with a poolside bar. There is a reading library where guests can read books or watch movies, a spa to unwind, and a gym to keep fit. The island has extensive walking trails that lead into the forest where guests can witness the local birds, plants and animals. The trails lead to the highest point of the island with panchromatic views of the surrounding Bacuit Bay. Underwater, the bay has even greater biodiversity and can be enjoyed with complete dive equipment sets provided by the Marine Sports Center. They also offer PADI Dive Courses taught by certified and experienced dive instructors. Located just a few minutes away from Pangulasian Island, is the exclusive beach clubs of El Nido Resorts where guests can experience different water activities. El Nido Resorts has a long-standing commitment to providing leisurely, engaging, and educational experiences and services to its guests in a manner that has the least impact on the environment and promotes respect for El Nido’s local people and culture. Starting with the Be G.R.E.E.N. (Guard, Respect, Educate El Nido), a program which trains all its staff on ecological waste management; on conserving water, energy, and biodiversity; and on environmental laws. This program is complemented by ‘Pa-Berdehan,’ a company-wide competition for environmentally friendly innovations. Energy Conservation measures include the use of CFL bulbs, use of energy-efficient water heater, rooms designed to optimize natural lighting and solar panels installed in select locations. The resort operates a desalination plant which enables it to avoid depleting groundwater sources used by local communities. It also operates a rainwater catchment system along with water-saving devices such as low-flow showerheads and low-flush toilets. It has eliminated the use of bottled waters by implementing a refillable drinking water system. It operates a state-of-the-art sewage treatment plant

combined with native reed bed filters to ensure that no raw sewage and grey water are discharged into the sea. The treated water is utilized in flushing toilets, watering the plants, and supplying fire hydrants. Solid waste is segregated before reaching the resort’s full-cycle materials recovery facility where organic waste is composted on-site and used in the resort gardens or organic farms. El Nido Resorts is also focused on serving a sustainable menu. It no longer purchases grouper, due to their declining numbers. Locally and organically produced vegetables comprise 60%, and locally reared livestock comprise 90% of the total kitchen purchases. Only low impact activities are offered to guests which means there are no jet-skis and other motorized marine sports equipment. Marine sports guides accompany guests to supervise the activities, provide nature interpretation, and ensure guests don’t disturb or damage the environment. The group manages ‘El Nido Biodiversity Online,’ an extensive database of the region’s flora and fauna. It also supports scientific studies on the region’s biodiversity by providing board and lodging, boats, equipment such as diving gear. At least five species of endangered turtles are known to nest in some of the local beaches. The group and its staff participate in the tag-and-release programs, as well as safeguarding the releases of hatchlings. The group works closely with the community and local government in areas requiring support, such as in the prevention of illegal fishing, coral and reef fish assessments, environmental education campaigns, and more. Women from several villages have been trained to produce native bags and slippers that are purchased by the resort and given as compliments to its guests. The group has committed to hiring locally, thus giving them a viable option to earn a decent living and stay in their community. The group also offers training to the local community to improve their skill set to increase the potential for employment.”

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L A D O L C E V I TA • B L A C K A N D M E TA L S H A D E S

Gentle Monster Her 01

Gentle Monster Solo 01

BLACK AND METAL SHADES The latest releases for the South Korean eyewear brand Gentle Monster South Korean eyewear brand Gentle Monster has unveiled its Spring-Summer 2020 collection. The eyewear brand of choice for the likes of Beyonce, Gigi Hadid, Susan Sarandon and Tilda Swinton is known for its larger-thanusual frame designs - as this aesthetic is popular with its East-Asian customer base. It has built its latest collection around the new “Flatba” and “T Optical” series. The Flatba collection comprises five new light-weight acetate sunglasses in black, all featuring the brand’s signature oversized frames and smooth front. Dreamer 17 01 and MY MA 01 are square frames composed of curves and straight lines. Solo 01 and Lang 01 have round-shaped lenses. Her 01 is an overtly feminine square frame with three rose gold highlights. All five have nylon Zeiss lenses with 100 per cent UV protection, either two or three circular silver pins on the lens edges, and the brand’s name embossed on the temples Designed for comfort and style, the “T Optical” series is a collection of light-weight optical frames made with beta titanium. The 2020 collection adds five new designs to the series. Tom 21 A02 has a rounded frame while Tom 22 A02 has a square metal frame, both in antique silver with gold accents. Defined by its inverted browline design, Gatta 01 combines the features of acetate and metal into one frame with contemporary trim details on the front. The Havana B4

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has a rectangular browline-combination frame in silver and brown. The brown acetate is contrasted by a grooved metal frame featuring two silver circular trim details on the front. The West Coast D01 has a square browline-combination frame in gunmetal and black. The black acetate is contrasted by a grooved metal frame featuring a gold trim detail on the front. All five models feature grooved end pieces with Gentle Monster engraved on the temples. Gentle Monster was founded by Hankook Kim in Seoul, South Korea in 2011. It now has over 40 directly operated stores worldwide. The brand is known for displaying its products like museum pieces, often creating an immersive experience for its customers. The other thing that the brand is known for is its collaborations. The most high-profile collaboration so far was with Huawei, for last year’s launch of smart glasses. The French luxury goods conglomerate LVMH invested $60 million for a 7% stake in the company in September 2017. Recently, the brand joined forces with Mizzen, a wholly owned subsidiary of Seddiqi Holding, to form a joint venture and launch Gentle Monster in the Middle East. The partnership is introducing a new era of eyewear and retail experience to the region. Gentle Monster’s Middle East flagship store is at The Dubai Mall.

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