Signe - Edition 38 by Signé

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S I G N É

AUTOMOTIVE INSPIRATIONS THE STORY OF DUNHILL

DOUBLE FAREWELL

RM 61-01 ULTIMATE EDITION YOHAN BLAKE

THE JEWEL OF LEFT BANK

HÔTEL LUTETIA

THE ART OF COFFEE

ISPIRAZIONE ITALIANA BY NESPRESSO

BENTLEY MULLINER BACALAR The car that heralds Mulliner's return to coachbuilding

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ALPACA FIBRE

The Alpaca fibre is among the most sought-after winter materials

A HIGH ACHIEVER

LATEST

Orlebar Brown launches its first underwear collection for men

Gucci has signed up for The Lion’s Share Fund to further its commitment to sustainability

A look back at the life of Tom Ford, one of the most successful fashion designers of his time

42 ULTIMATE COMFORT WITH STYLE

Our top product pick is the Dolce & Gabbana Palermo Tecnico Bag

GIVING DUE ROYALTIES

DISTINCTLY ITALIAN A review of Brunello Cucinelli’s Spring-Summer 2020 Collection

Editor’s selection of fragrances for the season

SNEAKER PICKS

AUTOMOTIVE INSPIRATIONS

Stay on trend with the best sneakers to own this season

dunhill’s Spring-Summer 2020 campaign pays homage to its founder’s relationship with the automobile

DOUBLE FAREWELL Richard Mille and Yohan Blake collaborate for an ultimate edition

GETTING OVER THE CREST

THE STYLE EDIT

Fashion-forward buys, picked by Signé for you

A look at the challenges facing the fashion industry during the COVID-19 pandemic and what is being done to overcome it

DESIGNER-BRAND SYNERGY

Felipe Oliveira Baptista, the new Creative Director of LVHM brand Kenzo comes with high expectations

FRAGRANCE FILE

CHRONOGRAPH REDOUX

Audemars Piguet re-boots a rare piece from the last century with the [Re]master 01 Selfwinding Chronograph

RESPONSIBLE TAILORING

THE DISRUPTOR

BOSS reiterates its focus on sustainable fashion this season

Ulysse Nardin’s Matthieu Haverlan speaks to Signé about his plans for the brand

A NEW STORY TO TELL Signé spoke to the CEO of a new and upcoming Swiss watch brand Norqain

BMW’s Concept i4 debuts much of the design and technology that will be part of its upcoming EVs

Carine at the Emirates Golf Club introduces new menu items for the season

DEBATING THE FUTURE

RETURNING TO ITS ROOTS

Bentley’s Mulliner has been reorganised to rediscover Bentley’s and its own roots

Hands Carpets’ latest premium, handmade carpet collection creates an unconventional dialogue between the individual and the space it adorns

Four Seasons launches Gastrohome, the hotel’s online delivery service

FIVE-STAR DINING AT HOME

ALL BY HAND

TWELVE OF A NEW BREED

Introducing Bentley Mulliner Bacalar, the car that heralds Mulliner’s return to coachbuilding

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RESISTING DEFINITION

THE JEWEL OF LEFT BANK

104

Brunello Cucinelli’s SS’20 Lifestyle Collection combines passion for art and craftsmanship

The Velaa Private Island is the fruit of one man’s desire to create his own island paradise

A look at the relationship between Post-War and Contemporary Art

COMPLEMENTARY TIMING

LUXURY LIVING

Breitling’s new chronograph celebrates the design elements of the Bentley Mulliner masterpiece

DISCOVERING KINGS ROAD

We bring you a selection of our favourite must-have possessions

Automobili Lamborghini x Principe collection is sure to please even the most demanding consumer

DESIGN EXCELLENCE

THE ART OF COFFEE

PURE JOY RENEWED

A PRIVATE GETAWAY

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The historic Hôtel Lutetia is set to reclaim its previous glory and its place in Parisian society

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

Our review of the QX80 Limited, Infiniti’s limited-edition upgrade on its flagship

MEDITERRANEAN BISTRO

Aston Martin’s Vantage Roadster is here to take motoring enthusiasts to new levels of joy

We bring you a series of our favourite blends from the masters of coffee, Nespresso, and take a deep look into what makes each one so special

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LIGHT AND TRENDY

Burberry’s BE4302 is for the fashionable with some practical options

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FA S H I O N • A H I G H A C H I E V E R

Designer Tom Ford

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A HIGH ACHIEVER A look back at the life of one of the most successful fashion designers of his generation - Tom Ford

The man who revived the fortunes of Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, who founded a highly successful eponymous fashion brand, who directed and produced two films, and who has dabbled in fashion photography - Tom Ford is a man driven by his creative force. Thomas Carlyle Ford was born in 1961, in Austin, Texas. His parents were both real estate agents. Besides school, the young Tom spent much of his childhood at his paternal grandparents’ ranch in dusty, rural Texas. In those formative years, Tom has identified his mother and paternal grandmother as his early role inspirations. His mother, according to his statements, was the epitome of urban chic, while his grandmother was the quintessential Texan woman, from flashy jewellery to oversized cars. In 1979, Tom moved to New York and enrolled at NYU as an art history major. He became a regular at the infamous Studio 54 and dropped out of school after just one year. He then moved to Los Angeles to appear in television commercials. After a few years, he returned to New York and enrolled at the Parsons School of Design to study architecture but ended up studying fashion. In 1985, Tom managed to convince prominent sportswear designer Cathy Hardwick to hire him as a design assistant. After two years, he moved to design jeans for Perry Ellis. In 1990, Dawn Mello, then Gucci’s creative director, hired Tom as the brand’s Womenswear Designer. At the time, Gucci was a brand plagued by management infighting and perceived to be out of touch with the times. Tom rose through the ranks, and just four years later, when the brand was acquired by the Bahrain-based Investcorp, he was appointed creative director. Once in charge, Tom set about transforming Gucci’s image from one

of conservative minimalism to a more sensually sophisticated one. Tom also had a knack for publicity, particularly those of the attention-grabbing and controversial variety. Tom famously teamed up with French stylist Carine Roitfeld and Italian photographer Mario Testino to produce some of the most iconic and add campaigns of the 1990s. Under Tom, Gucci had once again become the trendsetter that other brands looked up to; and courted by Hollywood A-listers like Gillian Anderson, Gwyneth Paltrow and Goldie Hawn. Gucci’s change of fortune reflected on the financials as well, thanks to a succession of collections that pleased the critics and consumers alike. Tom also expanded the range of products offered by the brand to include handbags, accessories and perfumes. These factors combined to transform the brand from one that was nearly broke, to going public in 1999 with a valuation of over US $4 billion. With change to spare, Tom was instrumental in the brand’s acquisition of Sanofi Beauté (now YSL Beauté) which owned the Yves Saint Laurent brand, followed by Sergio Rossi, Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga. In 2001, Pinault-Printemps-Redoute (new Kering) acquired a controlling stake in the Gucci group which changed the status quo under which Tom had become accustomed. He went public with his dissatisfaction and, unable to resolve his differences with the new owners, left the Gucci group in 2004. Rather than taking charge of another big-name brand, Tom believed that he had accumulated enough clout to launch his eponymous label the following year. He began by teaming up with Estee Lauder to launch a cosmetics and fragrance line. Next came an eyewear collection with the Marcolin group. The following year, Tom unveiled a men’s

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wear collection in collaboration with Ermenegildo Zegna, complete with suits, shoes and accessories. The success of these releases led to the opening of the brand’s flagship store in New York. The brand’s international expansion began with the announcement of merchandising partnerships with luxury retailer Daslu of Sao Paulo and Villa Moda; followed by a string of standalone stores starting in London, Milan, and Los Angeles. A long list of Hollywood A-listers, like at Gucci, has become a mainstay of the brand, including Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow, Tom Hanks, Johnny Depp, Ryan Gosling and Will Smith. Tom designed an ivory evening gown for Michelle Obama in 2011 which she wore on her visit to Buckingham Palace. Tom has also created the suits for Daniel Craig in Quantum of Solace, Skyfall, and Spectre. Tom, as the current chairman of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and Anna Wintour, the editor in chief of Vogue magazine, have recently announced that they are repurposing the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund to help the fashion houses affected by COVID-19. Away from fashion, Tom has cowritten, produced and directed two critically acclaimed films - A Single Man (2009) and Nocturnal Animals (2016). Both were produced under Fade to Black, the film production company he founded in 2005, and both have earned nominations at multiple awards. Speaking of accolades, Tom is one of the most decorated designers of his generation: five Council of Fashion Designers of America awards, four VH-1/Vogue Fashion Awards, GQ’s man of the year in 2000 and designer of the year 2001, as well as being included in Time’s top 100 list in 2011.

FA S H I O N • A H I G H A C H I E V E R

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Tom Ford Spring/ Summer 2020 Collection (Images Courtesy: Tom Ford)

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FA S H I O N • D I S T I N C T LY I TA L I A N

Brunello Cucinelli Spring-Summer 2020 Collection

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DISTINCTLY ITALIAN Brunello Cucinelli’s Spring-Summer 2020 men’s collection is the definitive casual chic

Brunello Cucinelli is a designer and manufacturer who has carved out a niche for himself in the world of fashion and business entrepreneurship. He is admired in the fashion world for his creations, and among the young CEO’s of Silicon Valley (and beyond) for his philosophy of “Humanistic Capitalism.” A self-made billionaire who was born into rural poverty, Cucinelli has always been about using the finest fabrics, starting with cashmere. As a businessman, he has always been about taking care of his employees. As a philanthropist, he has always been about reviving his rural hometown of Solomeo, where his company is based instead of Milan or Rome. A Brunello Cucinelli collection goes far beyond improving the company’s bottom line. The brand’s Spring-Summer 2020 men’s collection is a balance between style and comfort, chic and casual. It is composed of pieces that are perfect for infinite combinations of mix and match; featuring a blend of light materials, shapes, and details. The collection fits the needs of daily life. The collection features a burst of colours to express freshness and innovation in carefully conceived dialogues with soft summer nuances. There are lively and refined hues that range from bright reds such as cherry, ruby, and tomato to sunny medlar and orange. Sweaters, sweatshirts, and t-shirts feature bright colours. There are patterns that include subtle bolts of intense colour, giving a casual and modern allure to classics like the Prince of Wales. Details and inserts add colourful elements to the outerwear, travel wear, and accessories. Summer moods are interpreted by a range of neutral colours with a broad range of beige tones, metropolitan greys, and noble blues, varying from highly refined and very light tones to darker and more formal ones. The relaxed shapes of the of informal clothing items such as sweaters, outerwear, and especially trousers are balanced by the lines of tailored jackets, which flatter the male body with a close fit in the torso and slightly accented shoulders. The collection of suits now includes informal and sporty elements, thus giving them a casual feel. Tailored trousers with pleats, to give them a soft volume, alternate with more casual styles enhanced with pockets and details inspired by workwear fashion. The denim pants, made as usual from fine Japanese denim, feature a new, soft bulkiness and a line pressed down the middle. Lightness is a common quality found in every fabric used in the collection, from natural fibres with organic textures to new, technical materials found on the outerwear range. This quality is then enhanced by unstructured garments and the brand’s signature high degree of craftsmanship. The use of patterns adds variations to the designs, especially for pinstripes, ranging from very formal styles to more contemporary varieties. The stripes on shirts, in combination with their colours, add a sporty feel to them. The leathers are even lighter and softer than previous examples and include pieces that are completely unlined and new models with raw-cut edges. Super-fine suedes have a luxurious feel and offer a fresh look when combined with cotton and silk jerseys as lining, or to nappa effect finishing on the reverse adding contrasting colours. The knitwears are tinged with bright and fresh summer hues. The sweaters are offered in solid colours or are decorated with lines or contrasting details. Cool cotton yarns, linen slub yarns, and the irregularities in malfilé yarn all offer a pleasing natural feel to the timeless textures of rib stitch and plain stitch sweaters. Accessories feature luxurious materials, hand-crafted production, and light designs while the footwear selection includes British styles and sporty sneakers.

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FA S H I O N • D I S T I N C T LY I TA L I A N

Brunello Cucinelli Spring-Summer 2020 Collection 18

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FA S H I O N • A U T O M O T I V E I N S P I R AT I O N S

AUTOMOTIVE INSPIRATIONS dunhill’s Spring-Summer 2020 campaign pays homage to its founder’s relationship with the automobile “dunhill is not one thing, it’s many,” says Mark Weston, Creative Director of dunhill following the unveiling of the brand’s Spring-Summer 2020 Collection. “Just as there is more than one dunhill man, there are many dunhills. The history of the house is varied and storied. Alfred Dunhill himself was about change and innovation, with purposeful and multi-functional creations. More than anything else, he was always looking ahead – and that is what drives us.” The multifaceted nature of dunhill forms the framework for a multifaceted series of ad campaigns for the brand which explores stories from its past. ‘Automotive’ is the latest instalment for Spring-Summer 2020 and looks to the defining discovery for Alfred Dunhill that changed the whole nature of his brand: the automobile. In 1893, at the age of 21, Alfred Dunhill (1872-1959) took over his father’s saddlery business - a manufacturer of saddles, harnesses and other accessories for horses based in London - at a time when the world was on the verge of undergoing a profound change. A decade earlier, in 1886, Carl Benz patented his “vehicle powered by a gas engine,” which may be regarded as the birth certificate of the automobile. Although the automobile was still a novelty that was affordable only to the elite in 1893, Alfred recognised the dramatic shift in mobility that was about to occur. So, he gradually shifted the company’s resources towards manufacturing accessories for the

motoring gentlemen and his automobile under the dunhill’s Motorities brand. Motorities - a portmanteau of “motorist” and “priorities” - comprised a vast collection that included car horns, lamps,

leather overcoats, goggles, picnic sets, timepieces and many others; basically, as the company’s tag-line stated: “Everything But The Motor.” In 1890, Alfred established the Discount Motor Car Company to sell his motoring accessories and the everexpanding attire line through mail order. The catalogue is said to have listed over 1,300 items. As the company and its reputation grew, Alfred steered the company to cater to the luxury market by opening two dunhill Motorities stores on Conduit Street, Mayfair in 1902. Here, the brand catered exclusively to the needs of chauffeurs and their wellheeled employers.

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In his ever-growing list of products designed to cater to the ever-growing demands of the gentlemen motorists’ needs, he designed and patented the windproof pipe in 1904, which allowed his clients to smoke while driving their open-top vehicles. From there, it was only natural that he would expand his range to include more tobacco products, eventually opening the brand’s first dedicated tobacconist and pipe shop in 1907 on Duke Street. Here, he began to offer bespoke blends to his discerning clientele. The following year, in 1907, Alfred introduced the first dunhill branded cigarette. The business had become such a success that the company had taken additional premises on Duke Street by 1910. In the following decade, Alfred was joined by his youngest brother, Herbert, and his eldest son, Alfred Henry, followed by his second son, Vernon. The company opened a pipe factory with the pipes carrying the white spot trademark. In 1921, the dunhill name received its first royal warrant, as tobacconist to Edward, Prince of Wales; later King Edward VIII. Among their list of illustrious clients were Winston Churchill and the wartime poet Siegfried Sassoon. The 1920s was a significant decade for the company. The first international dunhill stores opened in New York and Paris. This international expansion, some have observed, was the first example of what is today a standard practise in the luxury goods industry. Alfred made one last significant contribution to

dunhill Spring-Summer 2020 Campaign

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FA S H I O N • A U T O M O T I V E I N S P I R AT I O N S

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dunhill Spring-Summer 2020 campaign

the brand before his retirement. Along with his brother Herbert, Alfred designed and launched the Unique lighter, the world’s first lighter that could be operated with just one hand. Another invention carting to the needs of the Automobile driver. Alfred retired from active management of the business due to poor health, and was succeeded by his son Alfred Henry in 1928. Even though Alfred had retired, his successors felt it imperative to embody his spirit while steering the business. By the late 1970s, the dunhill brand had grown to offer a range of around 3,500 luxury products in more than 20 stores worldwide. Its range of products also included high-end ready-to-wear clothing for men. Today, the company that Alfred Dunhill founded survives in two separate entities. The dunhill cigarette brand is owned and manufactured by British American Tobacco. Alfred Dunhill Limited is a Richemont Holdings Limited subsidiary and managed by CEO Andrew Maag. It specialises in ready-to-wear, custom and bespoke menswear, leather goods, and accessories. Like Alfred’s descendants did after his retirement and passing, the dunhill of today has sought to keep alive the

innovative spirit of Alfred Dunhill alive through its latest ad campaign. His relationship with, and contribution to, the pioneering days of the automobile are celebrated in the brand’s Spring-Summer 2020 campaign. A garage in Berkley Square, Mayfair, with classic cars partially revealed underneath car covers was the setting for the presentation of dunhill’s collection. Photographed by Jack Webb, the cars are as much the centrepiece as the young men wearing dunhill clothes. The silhouettes explore the technical, classical and contemporary nature of the brand through fluid fabrication, relaxed wrapped tailoring, the classicism of British cutting, a Japanese approach to volume, and the casual cogency of sportswear. dunhill is presented as a house that celebrates and makes sense of a multitude of menswear codes, including its leather goods. In ‘Automotive,’ it is both style and substance that is celebrated. “It’s about sophistication of taste; it has to be fitting, says Mark Weston. “With dunhill, it has to be of a certain level and worthy of the house’s legacy. Proportion, fabrication and consideration – the whole thing has to be at such a high level. There has to be a combination of utility and elegance, that is crucial to dunhill.”

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THE STYLE EDIT

EDITOR’S PICKS

Sunglasses, Tom Ford

Bag, Berluti

Jacket, Kiton

Trouser , Sid Mashburn

T Shirt, Les Bejamin

Black Leather Belt, Dolce&Gabbana

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Sunglasses, Brioni

T Shirt, Coach

Jacket, Coach

Tote Bag, MCM

Trouser, Kiton

Slippers, Dolce&Gabbana

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FA S H I O N • D E S I G N E R - B R A N D S Y N E R G Y

DESIGNER-BRAND SYNERGY Felipe Oliveira Baptista, the new Creative Director of LVHM brand Kenzo comes with high expectations

On July 1, 2019, LVHM’s Kenzo announced the appointment of a new creative head in nearly a decade. Felipe Oliveira Baptista presented his first men’s and women’s collections for Kenzo this February during Paris Fashion Week. When rumours of the appointment began to make their way through the rumour mills, industry observers were of the opinion that Baptista’s well-rounded creative language - which goes beyond fashion to include photography and drawing, in addition to his proven track record at Lacoste made him the ideal candidate to take the brand forward. He took over from Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, the departing duo of creative directors. LVMH fashion group chairman and CEO, Sidney Toledano’s statement following the announcement seemed to confirm these opinions. He said: “Felipe’s talent as a designer, his expertise in clothing and his personal attachment to diverse cultures will be valuable assets in rejuvenating the creative energy at the maison.” Similar sentiments were expressed by Kenzo’s Chief Executive, Sylvie Colin, who said: “His innovative and modern creative vision and well-rounded artistic approach will enable Kenzo to reach its full potential while respecting its unique heritage.” Baptista was born in the Portuguese Atlantic archipelago of the Azores in 1975, grew up in Lisbon, and moved to London at the age of eighteen to study Fashion Design at Kingston University. After graduating in 1997, he began his career with Max Mara in Italy. In 1999, he moved to Paris to join the team at Christophe Lemaire, and then moved on to Cerruti. The first

decade of this century for Baptista was characterised by many firsts, accolades and bold steps. In 2002, Baptista created his first collection as an independent designer, and presented it at the Hyères Festival. He was awarded the Grand Prix. The following year, he won the ANDAM/LVMH Fashion Award. Encouraged by these accolades, he launched an eponymous brand, and just two years later, in 2005, he won the ANDAM Fashion Award for the second time. Also, that year, he was invited to show in the official calendar of Haute Couture in Paris, and thus debuted his first runway show. He continued to do so every season until 2009. In 2006, he was invited by Uniqlo, the Japanese casual wear brand, to collaborate on what would be Baptista’s first capsule collection. In 2007, he was invited to exhibit some of his work at the MUDAM, Luxembourg’s modern art museum. In 2008, he collaborated with Nike on their AW77 iconic hoodie collection in addition to the brand commissioning a book by Baptista. The same year, he also exhibited an installation at the Hyères International Festival. In 2009, he presented his first show during Paris Fashion Week. The second decade of this century, by contrast, would be one of stability and continuity for Baptista. In 2010, he was appointed Creative Director at Lacoste to a generally positive reception. It was a relationship that would last for eight years. Baptista evolved the brand, once associated with tennis, into a regular of the runway with collections that had a carefree, sporty feel to them, accented with bold graphics, and focused on environmentalism. Lacoste had evolved into a designer

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Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Creative Director, Kenzo SIGNÉ • EDITION 38

FA S H I O N • D E S I G N E R - B R A N D S Y N E R G Y

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Felipe Oliveira Baptista presented his debut collection for Kenzo during Paris Fashion Week earlier this year, All Photos Courtesy of Kenzo

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FA S H I O N • D E S I G N E R - B R A N D S Y N E R G Y

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brand, and crossed the €2 billion mark in revenues under the creative stewardship of Baptista. His last collection at Lacoste was a collaboration with premium streetwear brand Supreme, revealed in 2018. In 2013, to celebrate the tenth anniversary of Felipe Oliveira Baptista, the brand, a retrospective exhibition was held in the Museum of Design and Fashion in Lisbon. A year later, Baptista put the brand on hold, not just to focus on Lacoste, but also to explore other creative fields. This led to the publication of a photography book in 2017 entitled Lisboa, part of the collection “Portrait de villes.” It was this creative background that led to the positive response from industry observers when it was formally announced that Baptista would take over the creative stewardship at Kenzo. They saw a synergy between the brand and the designer. So did Baptista. “Kenzo is all about contagious freedom and movement. Everything Mr Takada did was suffused with joy, elegance and a youthful and bold sense of humour. Kenzo’s constant celebration of nature and cultural diversity has always been and remains at the heart of the brand. These two subjects have never felt more relevant and compelling than they do today and will be instrumental to the future of Kenzo,” Baptista said following his appointment. Kenzo was founded in 1970, in Paris, by the Japanese born designer Kenzo Takada, who moved to Paris in 1964. His

distinctive designs fused Asian and Japanese influenced style with the construction techniques of European fashion. He debuted with a Paris boutique called ‘Jungle Jap,’ which was distinctly decorated in jungle inspired decor. He later changed the name to Kenzo following objections raised by Japanese-Americans. Takada began by selling handmade women’s clothing. He then successively added men’s, kids and home collections. In 1993, LVMH purchased the label. Takada announced his retirement in 1999 to pursue a career in art, leaving his assistants in charge. In 2011, Leon and Lim, the co-founders of New York-based fashion retailer Opening Ceremony, were appointed as creative directors to inject new energy into the brand. Their signature design being the tiger emblem streetwear. They also revived the brand’s commitment to diversity and inclusivity, and staged imaginative events to present their designs, just as Takada had done. Despite their best efforts, Kenzo continues to be a minor player in the LVJM hierarchy of brands, estimated to be generating less than €400 million in revenues annually. Another area of weakness noted by analysts is its slow adoption to the new disruptive models of merchandising driven by luxury streetwear, even though the brand is well suited for it. This is where Baptista is expected to make a difference, given his track record at Lacoste, both as a designer and as someone familiar with the new mechanising models.

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FA S H I O N

THREADS

ANDEAN ROYALTY The Alpaca fibre is among the most sought-after winter materials, comparable to Merino and cashmere

Known as “the fibre of the gods,” Alpaca was reserved for Inca royalty. The Alpaca fibre comes from the fleece of the Alpaca (Vicugna pacos), a species of South American camelids like the llama, Guanaco and Vicuña. Alpacas have been bred for their fibre and meat on the Andean highlands (between 3,500 and 5,000 metres) in Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Bolivia and Northwest of Argentina by the Amerindians for over 5,000 years. There are generally two types of Alpaca fibre, produced by two distinct breeds of Alpaca. Huacaya (pronounced wah-kee-ya) is the dominant breed and thus produces the most common fleece type. It looks similar to sheep wool - voluminous and crimpy - making it a naturally elastic yarn well-suited for knitting. Suri (surrey), the second breed making up just 10 to 20 per cent of the Alpaca population, are prized for their longer and silkier fibres that hang down their side like “dreadlocks.” Since the fleece has no crimp, it is better suited for weaving. Alpaca fibre is five times warmer and stronger than sheep’s wool. The fibre has air pockets which allow it to trap and contain more heat. It is softer than wool, thanks

to a diameter that is comparable to merino wool, and silkier to the touch. It is naturally water-resistant, and since it has no lanolin, a natural wax secreted by some wool-producing animals which can trigger an allergic reaction, it is naturally hypoallergenic. The fibre is durable, does not easily pill, tear, or stain. An adult alpaca produces between 2.5 to 4.5 kilograms of fibre per year. The fleece has a broad range of natural colours from ivory to black, and a broad spectrum of greys and browns in between. As many as 52 natural colours are recognised in Peru and 22 in the worldwide fibre market. Moreover, these natural colours can be blended to produce even more colours while the lighter shades absorb dyes beautifully. The Spanish introduced the fibre to Europe but did not find much acceptance as the wool mills found it difficult to spin it into yarns. That is until Sir Titus Salt of Bradford, in the early 1800s, produced the first Alpaca cloth. Since then, the Alpaca fibre has been among the most sought after in the world of luxury fashion, particularly in the fall-winter season.

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LATEST

DOLCE & GABBANA Palermo Tecnico Bag Neoprene with Jungle Stamp AED 4,195

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FA S H I O N • G I V I N G D U E R O YA LT I E S

GIVING DUE ROYALTIES Gucci has signed up for The Lion’s Share Fund to further its commitment to sustainability

This February, Gucci became the first fashion brand to join The Lion’s Share Fund, which aims to raise over $100 million per year within the next five years to support animal conservation efforts, and to fight against biodiversity depletion and climate change. The fund asks brands to contribute 0.5% of their media spend every time an animal is featured in their advertisements. Sir David Attenborough, Lion’s Share Special Ambassador, notes: “Animals are in 20 per cent of all advertisements we see. Yet, they do not always receive the support they deserve. Until now. The Lion’s Share shows that by making a small difference today, we have an opportunity to make an unprecedented difference tomorrow.” Following the announcement, Marco Bizzarri, President and CEO of Gucci, said: “The Lion’s Share Fund is an important addition to our conservation strategy. Nature and wildlife provide Gucci with inspired creation that is an integral part of our narrative through our collections and campaigns. With the increasing threats to the planet’s biodiversity, ground-breaking initiatives like The Lion’s Share Fund have the potential to be transformative by organically connecting the business community with direct action to protect our natural habitats and most threatened species.” The fund was established in June 2018 by the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) in partnership with FINCH, Mars Incorporated, Nielsen and BBDO as the founding members. Mars Incorporated is a US $35 billion, family-owned global enterprise which produces some of the world’s most popular food and beverage brands: M&M’s, Snickers, Twix, Milky Way

and many more. BBDO is a worldwide advertising agency network, headquartered in New York City. FINCH is a multiaward-winning production company comprising filmmakers, artists, and engineers, and also holds more than a dozen patents. Nielsen is a global S&P 500 performance management company. The founding partners were joined by The Economist Group, publisher of The Economist magazine and JCDecaux, the world’s largest out-of-home advertising company. Gucci is the latest addition to the list. The United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) is the United Nations’ global development network which helps countries achieve the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). Active in nearly 170 countries and territories, it offers global perspective and local insight to help people build societies that can withstand crisis, achieve sustainable growth and generally improve their quality of life. It is headed by The UNDP Administrator, the third highest-ranking official of the United Nations after the United Nations Secretary-General and Deputy Secretary-General. After Gucci officially became a partner in the Lion’s Share Fund, Achim Steiner, the current UNDP Administrator, commented: “This partnership with Gucci marks the continuing evolution of this innovative fund, which provides a unique opportunity for brands across all industries to join forces and help preserve and protect biodiversity across the globe. Wildlife populations are half the size they were just 50 years ago, and their habitats and ecosystems are destroyed at an unprecedented rate due to human activity. The Lion’s Share is an idea that is as innovative as it is simple – and it makes a real impact on wildlife conservation.”

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The contributions made by the partners are pooled and distributed to projects globally by the fund’s joint steering committee. It will decide on which programs get priority as per the guidelines outlined in the Sustainable Development Goals. Supporting animals and helping to conserve their habitats is key to achieving SDG Goal 14 - Life Underwater, and Goal 15 - Life on Land. The fund is already having an impact. It provided a grant to improve critical radio systems for law enforcement officers protecting wildlife in Mozambique’s Niassa Nature Reserve; who are fighting to reduce the elephant poaching rate to zero. Another grant helped secure land for endangered orangutans, elephants and tigers in Indonesia’s North Sumatra region. The acquisition of additional forest land is in progress. Ten per cent of The Lion’s Share Fund will be invested in animal welfare projects across the globe. To this end, the fund announced a partnership last year with Humane Society International (HSI) which is working on various animal welfare projects globally. This year, the fund announced a grant to WildArk, to support its efforts to treat and rehabilitate injured wildlife throughout New South Wales, Australia, following devastating bushfires. Gucci’s commitment to The Lion’s Share Fund is part of a broader strategic goal towards sustainability, as Bizzarri pointed out: “Since 2018, Gucci has been totally carbon neutral across our supply chain, and we offset our remaining emissions every year through REDD+, which protects critical forests and biodiversity around the world.” Gucci’s drive towards a greener future began with the implementation of the 10-year sustainability strategy in 2015. It

comprised a series of targets to be achieved by 2025. These targets have been measured each year against the 2015 ‘Environmental Profit and Loss’ (EP&L) baseline, which includes an objective to reduce Greenhouse Gas emissions by 50%. EP&L was pioneered by Gucci’s parent Kering to measure its GHG emissions, water consumption, air and water pollution, land use, and waste production within the company’s own operations, and across the entire supply chain. It then calculates the social cost in relation to these impacts. Gucci’s EP&L for 2018, showed that the company is on track to attain its targets, having already achieved a 16% reduction of its overall footprint across its supply chain since 2015, relative to growth. Within this context, GHG emissions were also reduced by 16% and currently account for 35% of Gucci’s total footprint. The brand’s supply chain is responsible for around 90% of these emissions. Gucci’s primary long-term strategy for achieving its zerocarbon footprint target is by adopting the “avoid, reduce, restore” method. Where this is not feasible, due to technical reasons, it will employ the offset method through four REDD+ projects – each verified against strict global standards - that support forest conservation around the world. REDD+ is another United Nations-backed initiative to curb climate change by stopping the destruction of forests. REDD stands for Reducing Emissions from Deforestation and forest Degradation, while the “+” signifies the positive role of conservation in sustaining forests. Transparency underpins Gucci’s approach to sustainability, and therefore, it has made its EP&L measurements available to the public online through its Digital EP&L platform.

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FA S H I O N

DUNHILL

Referencing lightweight 1970s running shoes, the Dunhill ‘Axis Runner’ features a quilted leather heel counter and perforated calfskin lining. Uppers are crafted from technical nylon, suede, and leather, while the sole offers a hybrid fabrication of rubber and leather.

VEJA

Known to use eco-conscious materials, these ‘Venturi’ sneakers are cut from white mesh and have tonal suede and gray leather trims, a chunky wild rubber sole for better traction and support, a white lace-up front and the signature V applique on the sides.

AXEL ARIGATO

The ‘Clean 90’ sneakers are an accurate representation of a luxury brand with a functional take on style. Made from premium leather and styled with matching rubber sole, this low-top set features a cushioned foot-bed and arch support for maximum comfort.

TOMMY JEANS MERCER AMSTERDAM

Add a collegiate-inspired touch to your edit with these Jupiter sneakers from Mercer Amsterdam. These sneakers feature a mix of suede and mesh upper, rubber sole, heel pull tab, and lace-up fastening.

In celebration of the 35th anniversary of the brand, the TJ 8.0 Heritage Runner was launched in March in limited numbers of 1985 pairs. Crafted from white leather, the chunky-soled sneaker draws inspiration from a ’90s archive model of the same style.

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BALLY Bally continues its collaboration with Vibram into Spring/Summer 2020 across a range of new styles, including the men’s ‘Vegas’ sneaker family. A perfect meeting of Bally’s design precision and Vibram’s pioneering technology, Vegas combines over 200 years of footwear expertise.

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FA S H I O N • G E T T I N G O V E R T H E C R E S T

GETTING OVER THE CREST A look at the challenges facing the fashion industry and what is being done to overcome it

The COVID19 pandemic has presented the fashion industry with probably its biggest challenge since the massive socio-economic disruption caused by World-War II. A statement of such gravitas would normally require qualifications, but we are witnessing such abnormal circumstances that one would be hard-pressed to discount it. At the time of writing, Italy and France, two of the biggest producers of luxury goods and home to the fashion industry’s biggest brands are in complete lock-down. The fashion events in New York, London, Milan, and Paris held earlier this year were subdued, to say the least. Tokyo Fashion Week and its accompanying events were cancelled, as was Sao Paulo. The Met Gala, fashion’s biggest night of the year, has been postponed “indefinitely.” Nike, Adidas, Ralph Lauren, Chanel, Dior and Patagonia, among many others, have shuttered their stores; as have some of the biggest names in multi-brand fashion retail including Neiman Marcus, Macy’s, Selfridges and Nordstrom. Those who have not are facing backlash from consumer groups and on social media. H&M group reported a dramatic decline in its Chinese sales figures. Nike expects its sales to drop by a third in the fourth quarter. Prada reported a 2.7 per cent rise, but its recovery is expected to be set-back. Inditex, Zara’s parent, said its sales fell 24 per cent in February. Burberry has warned of a dire sales slump as high as 30 per cent for the year. M&S warning of a severe impact said it would not pay the final dividend for its 2019-20 year.

The fashion industry is a component of the luxury goods industry, which is estimated to be worth around US $300 billion globally. The Chinese market contributed roughly 40% to this pie before the outbreak, and contributed around 80 per cent of its growth. Given that China was the epicentre of the COVID19 outbreak, and experienced the most intense nationwide lockdown so far, the stated figures explain the immense impact the outbreak has had on the industry. As dark as the clouds are, they are not without silver linings. Although much of the world is riding the upward curve of the pandemic, China, the country where it all began, has managed to pass the pandemic crest. There were over 80,000 reported cases and around 3,200 fatalities. The recovery has been such that restrictions are being eased with some factories even resuming production. For the rest of the world, who are yet to hit the crest, China’s recovery serves as both a template and a confidence builder. The fashion industry’s leaders have played their part in China’s recovery and to the on-going fight in Europe. In late January, LVMH donated about $2.3 million to the Chinese Red Cross Foundation to help it acquire needed medical supplies. Then on March 15, it announced that it would convert all of its perfumes and cosmetics manufacturing facilities to produce hand sanitizers which were donated to French health authorities. It also pledged to supply France’s health workers with 40 million Surgical Masks. LVHM’s Bulgari donated to the research department at Rome’s Istituto Lazzaro Spallanzani to help with its efforts to fight COVID19.

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Photo: Courtesy of Barcroft Media via Getty Images—© Valeria Ferraro / Echoes Wire/ Barcroft Studios / Future Publishing

Kering, and its subsidiaries, have made donations in millions to the Hubei Red Cross Foundation, the Institut Pasteur and four major foundation hospitals in Lombardy, Veneto, Tuscany and Lazio. In late March, it imported and delivered three million Chinese surgical masks to the French health service while it awaited approval for its subsidiaries Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent to manufacture masks in France. Its other subsidiary, Gucci, supplied hospitals in Tuscany with over one million surgical masks and around half a million medical overalls. L’Oreal, Estée Lauder, Swarovski, Dolce and Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Donatella Versace, and many more brands and individuals within the industry have either pledged donations or material assistance to supplement the various governments’ efforts in combating COVID19. While the legacy brands can fall back on their cash reserves to see them through the disruptive months, newer brands who do not have that luxury have no choice but to come up with their version of Social Capitalism. For example, the online luxury marketplace Farfetch is practising a form of social capitalism by giving prominence to independent Italian boutiques along with offering them logistics and warehousing support. Some Asian based companies such as Global Fashion Group have accumulated better know-how not only on how to deal with COVID19 because of their longer exposure but also from previous events such as SARS. These brands are sharing this know-how with companies in Europe and the Americas. To continue performing their functions amid ever stringent social lock-down, companies have adopted innovative

technologies and migrated to the cyber-space. On the sales side, brands have turned to online markets. Joor, for example, brings together fashion brands like The Row, Marni, Loewe, Golden Goose, Marc Jacobs and Stella McCartney with retailers like Forty Five Ten, Harrods, Neiman Marcus and Shopbop. In an industry where the sense of touch is critical for any derision, Joor has had limited success, but the current situation has seen its transaction numbers almost double. Although it is safe to assume that Joor’s figures will decline when things normalise, the company is hoping to retain some of the new clients by adding new features. These include virtual showrooms, where retailers can see entire collections, or the innovative 3D imagery of their collections developed by Ordre - an imaging specialist. Hero, whose clients include the likes of Credo Beauty, Levi’s, Nike and Harvey Nichols connects customers to the brands’ store associates via live stream video. On the design side, brands are turning to Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) tools such as ApparelMagic and Backbone, among others. Although PLMs are not new, under the current circumstances where the creative teams are confined to remote locations, they have become a vital tool when combined with other tools such a video conferencing and cloud-based workflow management software. It is true that many fashion brands perished during the testing days of World War II. Others, who were able to think out of the box and innovate, survived and then thrived. The brands of today, face a similar challenge; how they cope with the challenge will determine if they sink or swim.

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FA S H I O N • R E S P O N S I B L E TA I L O R I N G

RESPONSIBLE TAILORING BOSS reiterates its focus on sustainable fashion this season

This Spring/Summer 2020 season, BOSS underlines its commitment to a more sustainable approach to fashion, especially with premium tailoring. The brand is building on the success of its Traceable Wool designs by launching a fully vegan suit, free of all animalbased materials, as part of its menswear collection. Highlights of the men’s collection for Spring/ Summer 2020 include a pinstriped wool jersey suit with drawstring pants, a summary lightweight slim-fit suit, athleisure- inspired tapered pants with cuffed hems, and an elevated polo design. This season, BOSS Menswear offers more responsibly tailored styles than ever before. The newly introduced vegan suit is a modern slim-fit design with a lightweight construction. Available in three colors, light beige, dark blue, and black, it is crafted in Germany from pure certified organic European grown linen. All components which, in a traditional premium suit, would contain materials such as wool or horsehair, have been omitted or replaced with vegan alternatives. This ensures that the entire item is free from animal-based materials. Production is supervised and tracked from farm to final garment with the source of Wool being New Zealand sheep raised by ZQ-certified farmers who adhere to the highest animal welfare standards, including being mulesing free; Yarn spun, dyed and fabric woven in Italy by specialists REDA, an iconic family company defined by excellence and Garment tailored in Izmir, Turkey by HUGO BOSS, guaranteeing highest workmanship standards and labour condition. BOSS Vegan Suit

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FA S H I O N • U LT I M AT E C O M F O R T W I T H S T Y L E

ULTIMATE COMFORT WITH STYLE Orlebar Brown launches its first underwear collection for men

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London-based men’s resort wear and lifestyle brand, Orlebar Brown, was launched in 2007 by photographer Adam Brown with a concise collection of four tailored swim short styles. Their recently released debut collection of underwear signifies further expansion into new categories. The brand’s product range has grown year on year to encompass jackets, chinos, shirts, sweats and knitwear. Previous accessory launches including sunglasses, bags, hats, towels and footwear have solidified Orlebar Brown as the go-to brand for year-round adventure, with underwear joining the line-up to allow for a complete OB wardrobe.

In reflection of their core ‘OB Classic’ swim shorts in four varying lengths, the collection comprises four styles: Slip, Brief, Short Trunk and Mid-Trunk. Made from a breathable, lightweight and soft stretch-cotton in formfitting shapes, they offer premium comfort for everyday wear. Orlebar Brown have constructed their underwear with flatlock seams for a strong, sleek and minimal-friction approach, while gussets on the trunk styles and darted front panels on the Brief and Slip styles provide optimum comfort and support. Each pair is complete with an elasticated logojacquard waistband.

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FRAGRANCE FILE

EDITOR’S PICKS Ambré Eau Fraîche, Baldessarini The sensuous fragrance character of amber meets a charismatic, clear and highly invigorating opening of aromatic accords and fresh elements of watermelon and bergamot. The masculine heart note underlines its sensuality and radiance with sage notes and the elegance of violet leaves. Warm, elegant wood tones provide an extravagant ﬁnale. 90ml – 336 AED

Le Gemme Kobraa, Bvlgari The emanation of ﬂavors and scent notes for Le Gemme Kobraa unfurl in a whiff of ﬂoral opening top notes including geranium. The resin heart center notes blend in with frankincense while the deep woody base notes leave an impression of oud. 100ml - 1290 AED`

Gentleman Eau de Parfum Boisée, Givenchy The olfactory encounter begins with the spicy contact of black pepper with coriander, followed by a warm embrace between cocoa’s addictive accents and the sophisticated elegance of iris. A sensory experience enhanced by the woody notes of sandalwood and an oriental accord. 100ml - 389 AED

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Colonia Veneziana, The Merchant Of Venice The fragrance opens up with sparkling notes of bergamot, orange and lemon, paired with the aromatic nuances of rosemary. In the heart, ginger and sage are hugged by a veil of smooth and soft iris. On the bottom, an elegant cedar wood accord is rounded by the musk note. 100ml - 552 AED

The One for Men (Intense), Dolce & Gabbana The fragrance opens with luminous accents of golden neroli essence, fused with fresh cypress and aromatic cardamom. At the heart of it are woody, spicy vibrations, tinged with calming clary sage and resinous benzoin followed by an intoxicating base of deep black leather, intertwined with patchouli and cistus labdanum. 100ml - 520 AED

Y Eau Fraîche, Yves Saint Laurent The sharpness of lemon is enhanced by a subtle note of geranium and grounded by cedarwood, forming a fragrance that radiates coolness. The new Y bottle features a gradient frosted ﬁnish and crowned by a snow-white cap, encapsulating an icy shot of freshness. 100ml - 367 AED

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WA T C H E S • D O U B L E F A R E W E L L

DOUBLE FAREWELL Richard Mille and Yohan Blake collaborate for an ultimate edition before his Olympic swan song

The Summer Olympics in Tokyo this year will be the last Olympics for Jamaican sprinter Yohan Blake, the double Olympic and World Championship gold medallist in 100 metres. He is also the youngest person to break the ten-second barrier. To commemorate his Olympic swan song, Blake has collaborated with Richard Mille to launch the 150-pieces limited edition: RM 61-01 Ultimate Edition Yohan Blake. The brand has announced that with the Blake special, the RM 61-01 series will be retired, thus bringing to an end its 6-year career. It is reported that Richard Mille and Blake, a brand ambassador since 2012, have been working on this new watch for nearly two years. It is the successor to their previous collaboration: the tourbillon RM 59-01. This 50-pieces limited edition manually wound tourbillon is presented in the green, yellow and black colours of the Jamaican flag. Its distinguishing feature is the ‘Beast Bridges’ - a stylised representation of Blake’s unique clawlike hand position when he sprints. The RM 61-01 Ultimate Blake appears more mellow, at least in terms of its colour spectrum. This is mainly because of the choice of materials used in its construction: Quartz TPT and Carbon TPT - an innovation from ProArt, Richard Mille’s case-making facility. Richard Mille, in addition to introducing intricate complications within its watches, is also among the first to introduce ceramic and carbon composites in the construction of its cases. The brand

introduced terms such as Ceramic TZP-N, translucent composite, and injected carbon nanotubes into the vocabulary of collectors. The Carbon TPT and Quartz TPT combinations first appeared on the RM 27-02 Tourbillon Rafael Nadal. Quartz TPT is a Quartz fibre composed of parallel filaments obtained from separating silica threads. Quartz fibres are generally used for very high-performance applications due to their resistance to high temperatures, their strength and their transparency to electromagnetic waves. Carbon TPT is obtained from carbon fibres. On the Ultimate Blake, Silica layers no thicker than 45 microns are saturated in a white matrix developed especially for Richard Mille. They are then inserted between 30-micron Carbon TPT layers, saturated in a black matrix, using an automatic positioning system that changes the orientation of the fibres between each layer by 45-degrees. It is then heated to 120 degrees Celsius and to a pressure of 6 bars in an autoclave similar to those used to make aeronautics components. It is then machined on a CNC machine to unveil the various Quartz TPT and Carbon TPT layers at random. This ensures that each machined component is unique. The Quartz TPT and Carbon TPT combination are used in the construction of the case, bezel and caseback. Carbon TPT is used on the caseband and the special drawn-out crown protectors between 2 and 5 o’clock which prevent the crown

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The RM 61-01 Ultimate Edition Yohan Blake SIGNÉ • EDITION 38

WA T C H E S • D O U B L E F A R E W E L L

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Yohan Blake, Olympic Athlete

from rubbing against the wrist. The crown is also in Carbon TPT with O-ring seal in Alcryn. The case, with dimensions 50.23 x 42.70 x 15.84 mm, is water-resistant to 50 metres thanks to two Nitrile O-ring seals, 20 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and 316L stainless steel washers. Sapphires with anti-glare coating provide protection and unobstructed views on either side of the mechanically and visually impressive RMUL2 calibre within. The skeletonised manual winding movement is lightweight and durable. With a thickness of 3.15 mm, it weighs just 4.3 grams. Supporting the hour, minute and second hands, it has a power reserve of some 55 hours thanks to a double-barrel system. The latter also helps to improve torque stability over a longer period by dividing the stored energy in two winding barrels instead of one, thereby reducing pressure and friction on the teeth, the bearings and the pivots. This results in improved longterm performance. The free-sprung balance with variable inertia offers better reliability when subjected to shock and during movement

assembly or disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated, and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to four small adjustable weights located directly on the balance. The base plate and bridges are constructed in grade-5 titanium with black PVD treatment. This provides excellent rigidity to the entire assembly, as well as the precise surface flatness essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train. The skeletonised baseplate and the bridges were subjected to intensive and complete validation tests to optimise their resistance capacities. The spline screws in grade 5 titanium used to fasten the bridges and case offer better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well. This construction, although bare, is deceptively durable. It is capable of withstanding shocks of up to 5,000 gs. To put that into perspective, an astronaut experiences a maximum g-force of around around 3 gs during lift-off.

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WA T C H E S • C H R O N O G R A P H R E D O U X

CHRONOGRAPH REDOUX Audemars Piguet re-boots a rare piece from the last century, using the latest from this century

Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet recently unveiled the [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph. This limited edition of 500 pieces reinterprets one of AP’s rare chronograph wristwatches from the World War II-era for the present day. “People are very cognizant of the design shakeup that took place in the 1970s and in the early 2000s. However, creative expressions of case form and dial design have occurred during every decade of our history. For [Re]master01, we chose to explore the strength and elegance of one of our chronograph wristwatches from 1943 through the prism of 2020. This is not a historic reissue – it is a contemporary remastering of one of our past creations,” says Michael Friedman, Audemars Piguet’s Head of Complications. With only 307 units made between the 1930s through the 1950s, AP’s vintage chronograph wristwatches from the World War II-era are among the rarest in the world. Moreover, every AP watch, we are informed, was unique until 1951. The pre-model 1533 wristwatch from 1943 which the [Re] master01 seeks to emulate, has a 36 mm diameter; quite large for the era when most chronograph wristwatches used to measure between 31 and 34 mm. This larger than

usual diameter size was chosen to offer better legibility on a watch created for sports enthusiasts. AP started catering to this segment of clients in the 1930s, when the measure of performance had become an integral part of society. During World War II (1939–1945), when pre-model 1533 was crafted, chronograph wristwatches accounted for just under one-tenth of the company’s total watch production. Only three stainless steel and gold chronograph wristwatches with the present case design were sold in 1943. “There were many inspiring watches within our Heritage collection that could have been the basis for this remastering project. The entire team unanimously decided on this chronograph wristwatch because of the specific aesthetic and emotional connections we all felt for this echo of the past,” added Friedman, explaining the reasoning behind choosing the 1533 as the subject. The [Re]master01 stays faithful to the original design language of 1533 of 1943. It has a round 40 mm case and lugs in polished stainless steel. The flat-ring bezel, oliveshaped pushers and the chamfered crown are in 18-carat pink gold. The teardrops lugs complement the two-tone case’s curvature, while the very thin bezel provides an

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Audemars Piguet [Re]master01 Selfwinding Chronograph

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WA T C H E S • C H R O N O G R A P H R E D O U X

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unobstructed view on the dial’s detailed work. The case has been meticulously polished by hand. The case’s two-tone polished aesthetic is complemented by a satin-brushed, gold-toned dial. The latter, enriched with black transferred hour-markers; pink-gold hour, minute and seconds hands; blue chronograph hands and a blue transferred tachymetric scale. Although the dial design has retained the original timepiece’s classic features and Art Deco-inspired numerals, the watch’s enlarged 40 mm diameter enables even better legibility than the original. Under the 12 o’clock indicator, one may notice that the brand’s distinct logo is missing. Instead, it has “Audemars Piguet & Co Genève” printed in a manner similar to the 1943 wristwatch. This is because, from around 1885 to the mid-1970s, Audemars Piguet had a workshop in Geneva to be closer to end clients and facilitate distribution within Europe and beyond. When Audemars Piguet started to sign its watches in the early 20th century, the city of Geneva was frequently mentioned on the dial. The chronograph counters have also been rearranged for improved readability. However, the [Re]master01 has

subtly retained the original watch’s 4/5 indication above the 15 minutes mark, inside the 30-minutes counter and at 9 o’clock to allow the wearer to record up to 45 minutes. This indication was requested by A’s third-generation familyfounder Jacques-Louis Audemars (1910 – 2003). As a lover of football, he wanted the watch to keep track of the game’s two halves. Unlike the original, the [Re]master01’s case-back features a glare-proofed sapphire crystal. Another disparity between the two is visible through the crystal - the Selfwinding Manufacture calibre 4409. It is AP’s newest generation selfwinding chronograph mechanism featuring an integrated chronograph with column wheel and flyback function. The crystal also reveals the dedicated oscillating weight in satinbrushed 22-carat pink gold; matching that of the bezel. The weight is decorated with “Clous de Paris” — a traditional decoration technique used since the 1950s at Audemars Piguet. The light brown hand-stitched calfskin strap adds an elegant touch to the timepiece. The watch also comes with an additional dark brown alligator strap.

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WA T C H E S • T H E D I S R U P T O R

THE DISRUPTOR Ulysse Nardin’s Matthieu Haverlan speaks to Signé about his plans for the brand Since 2016, Matthieu Haverlan has been Ulysse Nardin’s Chief Commercial Officer responsible for driving the brand’s business and market growth through sales, product development and VIP client relations. Born in Ajaccio, Corsica, France, in 1986, Matthieu graduated from the business school of Grenoble, France. After a short, unsatisfactory stint in banking, he started his horological career in the Swatch Group as Sales Manager in France for Hamilton. After a year, he joined the Richemont Group as the National Sales Manager for Jaeger-LeCoultre. Three years later, he was promoted to Area Manager for Asia, Russia and North America and relocated to the headquarters in Switzerland. In 2016, Matthieu joined Ulysse Nardin. He currently lives in Switzerland, near the shores of the Lake Leman. Matthieu is married and is the father of two children aged one and four. He was kind enough to speak to us during a recent visit to Dubai. How and where did your passion for watches begin? I am someone really passionate about craftsmanship and about watchmaking. My passion for watchmaking began when I was 15 years old. At that time, I was serious about becoming an astronaut. I was walking in Paris one day and stopped in front of Antoine de Macedo’s vintage watch boutique. I was amazed by what I saw in the windows, and I went inside. I ended up spending about an hour talking to the watchmaker who explained to me

job that their ancestors used to do 170 years ago. We are also preserving this know-how. If someone wants to become an enameller tomorrow, for example, there are no schools to teach them. So, we are training the next generation of enamellers to make sure that we continue that know-how. Selling our watches allows us to pay the salaries of the watchmakers and the other artisans, which then will enable them to continue their legacy.

the differences between some of the watches. That day, I entered into a new world and have never left since. You were handed leadership positions at such a young age; what is it that drives your passion today? I think passion is like love; it evolves. I met my wife five years ago and the love I have for her today is probably much stronger. It has evolved. Earlier, I would read a lot about watchmaking and about the brands. I met people from the industry and even started collecting. Today, I am probably less focused on the creative side and much more about driving forward the business and the company. At a time when the world is becoming more and more dematerialized, working for a company that manufactures watches by hand, by people that are really passionate about it, has a really strong meaning for me. In Switzerland, our watchmakers and enamellers are doing exactly the same

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How do you handle the pressures of making a watch brand profitable while staying true to its DNA? For sure, we face many challenges. Probably the biggest challenge we have is people. I believe that we are in an industry that needs to reinvent itself. From a consumer point of view, the challenge is to be seen as “not boring” or “traditional,” particularly by the younger generation, but without losing our DNA. The good news is that we see more and more younger consumers wearing luxury watches. Here in the UAE, for instance, you have young people wearing a luxury watch like Freak-X on the left wrist, and on the right an Apple Watch. So, we need to think and behave differently. We need to recruit people that are passionate about watches but who are coming from different backgrounds. I am recruiting people that are coming from the watchmaking business, but also those coming from FMCG or cosmetic, for instance. We need to be disruptive, and we need to do things differently. So, every product launch for us is a challenge.

Ulysse Nardin Freak X Ice and Freak X Magma SIGNÉ • EDITION 38

WA T C H E S • T H E D I S R U P T O R

Ulysse Nardin Freak X

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We also need to make sure that we launch a product on time because there is definitely a growing consumer trend of “see now, buy now.” The consumer is no longer willing to wait as long as before. In the watch industry, we have a tendency to PR a product today and deliver it to the market may be nine or twelve months later. We, as an industry, are definitely losing opportunities because the consumer may end up buying a car or some other luxury product instead. What function does your Freak X play in building the brand image? X is for excitement, experience and ecstasy. It is definitely to create disruption within Ulysse Nardin. It enables us to talk to a younger audience. Let me explain with an example. In fashion, you have four main seasons. Montclair with Genius said: let’s spread that to once a month and let’s be crazy. I think they generate about 10% of the revenue through Genius, but it is how they create the contents and where they create the aspiration of the brand.

That is exactly what we do with Freak X. It rises engagement and brings people in. Whom are you targeting as a brand and who your clients? We have a very clear target group, no matter the region. It’s basically men between 20 to 40 years of age that are either watch enthusiasts or are new to watches. The average age of our consumer is ten years younger than our competition, and he is below 35 years. The average age of a new Ulysse Nardin customer is 15 years younger than the existing base. Also, most of our clients have maybe two or three pieces in their collection. So, we are working to cater to the needs of our existing base and the new customers on top of that. Vintage watches are getting popular. What is your take on pre-owned timepieces? I see that as an opportunity even though we are not into the secondhand market directly as a brand, but we are working with professionals who are offering second-hand and certified

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Pre-Owned watches. For example, we work with Boucheron in Switzerland and Paris in their certified Pre-Owned workshops. One of the first sales done there was a Ulysse Nardin. What they said to me is that pre-owned was an opportunity - at a slightly lower price of maybe 20 or 30 per cent of retail - to sell the product to young people. This removes the reluctance of the clients in investing in a product or brand that they are not familiar with. I also believe the second-hand market has to be structured and handled directly by the brands and by the authorized partners. What can we expect to see from Ulysse Nardin in the coming years? You will continue to see the sporty side and contemporary side of Ulysse Nardin. You can also expect to hear the announcement, in the next couple of months, of a partnership with Ocean Cleanup Company. As you know, sea sustainability is a very important subject for us, so we want to have a role to play there.

WA T C H E S • A N E W S T O R Y T O T E L L

A NEW STORY TO TELL Signé spoke to the CEO of a new and upcoming Swiss watch brand Norqain

“Everyone told me: why are you taking the traditional route. You should promote your brand through e-commerce and offer watches at lower prices. With your name, everybody will buy it because it will be like a hidden secret. I said: no, you don’t understand. Stories are not told like that. Stories are told to people in a store. A store which can take our story further,” said Ben Küffer, the CEO and founder of Norqain, a fully independent, familyowned Swiss watch company. He spoke to Signé during a recent visit to Dubai. Norqain was founded in 2018 in Nidau, Bienne, in the heart of the Swiss watch industry. These facts are, in themselves, nothing unusual. However, the fact that Ahmed Seddiqi and Sons, the region’s leading retailer of luxury watches and jewellery, should agree to be the regional distributor of such a young brand speaks volumes. “The addition of Norqain to the Seddiqi profile adds yet another brand with an extreme sport line. Having a brand that is family owned and focusing on quality products by tying up with an independent movement manufacturer is the criteria we at Seddiqi would love to add as a choice for our esteemed clients,” Mohammed Abdulmagied Seddiqi, Chief Commercial Officer, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, said following

the announcement of the partnership. Ben commented: “Ahmed Seddiqi and Sons and Norqain share an equal passion for Swiss-Made mechanical watches. As family-owned businesses, we share mutual trust and values with a long-term vision. We are very proud to partner with a strong retailer such as Ahmed Seddiqi and Sons to establish the Norqain brand in the UAE.” Even though the Norqain brand is new, the people behind it not only have years of experience in the Swiss watchmaking industry but are very much a part of its fabric. Ben Küffer, a native of Bienne in Switzerland, hails from a family that has been involved in developing and producing watches for over four decades. He was part of the sales team at Breitling for eleven years before leaving to found Norqain. To help him manage the company, Ben has brought in his father Marc Küffer, who owned and managed Roventa Henex, the prominent Swiss private label manufacturer founded in 1959; Ted Schneider, the son of Teddy Schneider, the longtime CEO and shareholder of Breitling; Mark Streit, Swiss hockey legend and NHL Stanley Cup winner. “I have a very close relationship with the Schneider family (of Breitling), and Rolf Schnyder, who was the CEO of Ulysse Nardin, was my sister’s

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godfather,” reveals Ben. He began to seriously consider launching a watch brand of his own following two events that occurred in quick succession. One was the acquisition of Breitling by CVC Capital Partners, and the other was the birth of his son. “When Breitling was sold, my son was two weeks old. I wanted to tell him a better story, and so the desire to do something different. I spoke to Ted about starting a new brand. He agreed and said that the timing is right. Initially, we were looking at buying an existing brand. It would have been much easier to have a story from 1912, but then we said: this should be our story and we have fresh ideas,” recalls Ben. “So, we had three things to figure out. One was the brand. Second was the product range. Third, what is going to make us different. The brand should have four pillars: experience, know-how, passion and tradition. We decided that the name should have an “N” in it. One day I called Ted and said: what do you think about Norqain? He said: It sounds strong, I like it. The logo is a symbolic representation of a Swiss mountain using two mirrored “N” letters. The logo has had great feedback in the market, and we have a lot of merchandise based on it.”

Ben Küffer, founder and CEO, Norqain SIGNÉ • EDITION 38

WA T C H E S • A N E W S T O R Y T O T E L L

Norqain Adventure Sport Chrono

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Norqain Independence 19 Limited Edition

Marketed under the motto – “your life, your way” – the brand has quickly earned a reputation for creating timepieces that suit an adventurous lifestyle. The brand’s gents and ladies’ watches are presented in three collections. The watches in the Adventure Sport collection are strong in character and designed for active outdoor use. The Freedom 60 collection has watches with classical design aesthetics inspired by the 60s, but with contemporary touches. The more exclusive Independence collection is for “the nonconformist who dares to be different” and features low-volume limited-editions. “Our brand’s distinguishing features are high-quality Swiss-made watches with customisation options at a competitive price - between USD 1,500 and 4,000,” explains Ben. “They have high-quality finishing on the case and the dials. For example, both have handapplied indexes, the case flanks have both satin brush or polished finish, and the bezel has only a small amount of play and makes a beautiful noise, which I think is super important on a quality Swiss timepiece.”

“In terms of customisation, we are the only ones to offer a customisable nameplate. It is an additional design element attached to the side of the case, which also gives balance to the case while also making it very easy to personalise. Since it’s detachable, your watch does not have to be in the workshop waiting to be engraved. People engrave important dates or names on the plate. For example, I have engraved my son’s birth date. Normally, the watch comes with Norqain engraved on the plate, and clients can purchase an additional plate for customisation.” Since its founding, Norqain watches have been powered by ETA calibres. In February, the brand announced a long-term partnership with Kenissi, the Swiss manufacturer of a range of robust, high-performance calibres. Initially created to produce calibres for Rolex’s Tudor brand and for Breitling, it is currently owned by Tudor (80%) and Chanel (20%). Rolex is currently building a new manufacturing facility for Kenissi in Le Locle, scheduled to open next year. Under the current agreement, Norqain has procured two COSC-certified movements from

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Kenissi: the three-hand calibre NN20/1 and the GMT calibre NN20/2 - both have an impressive power reserve 70-hours. “In general, we work with leading suppliers and our strategy is to have more than one supplier; but in the case of Kenissi, we just wanted a manufacturer with the highest standards,” says Ben. “It surprised many people. A two-yearold company announces a partnership with one of the leading groups in our industry.” Elaborating on how the agreement will impact the brand, Ben added: “We will not be doing the same watches and just putting a Kenissi in it. We will keep the current lineup and add to it the new Kenissi models. This is because the new movement is only 26-millimetre in diameter, so it allows us to do 39-millimetre cases. We will be unveiling the Kenissi models in two phases. We will be launching the independence model in June, and then in September, we’ll be launching the GMTs for the first time.” Norqain watches are now available at Ahmed Seddiqi and Sons boutiques across the UAE.

AUTOMOTIVE • RETURNING TO ITS ROOTS

RETURNING TO ITS ROOTS Bentley’s Mulliner has been reorganised to rediscover Bentley’s and its own roots The Mulliner name has been associated with making journey’s more bearable or memorable for nearly 500 years. To put that into perspective, Queen Elizabeth I had been the Queen of England for about a year, and William Shakespeare was around seven years old when, in 1559, the Mulliner name was first mentioned in the record books as a saddler. The family’s fortunes took an upturn when they began to focus on coachbuilding. In 1760, Francis Mulliner was commissioned to build and maintain carriages for the Royal Mail. A century later, in 1870, Francis’s son Robert Bouverie Mulliner, started his own coachbuilding company called Mulliner London Limited. His son, H.J. Mulliner, had the foresight to see the changing trend and began to focus his business on coachbuilding for mechanically powered vehicles. Thus, the Mulliner we know today came into existence. At the turn of the 19th century, HJM acquired the family business, relocated it to London’s fashionable Mayfair, and renamed it H.J. Mulliner & Co. HJM had built his reputation, and the business, as a coachbuilder of exceptional quality. Among his illustrious list of clients was CS Rolls, who entrusted HJM to build a bespoke body for his personal Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost. As an independent coachbuilder, HJM built luxury coaches for a variety of premium auto-brands. However, it was his 3-litre, two-seater Bentley presented at the 1923 Olympia Motor Show that put him on the automotive map. This was just one of the over 240 Bentley’s chassis for which HJM built bodies in the 1920s alone. The bond between the Mulliner and Bentley was cemented in 1959 when the Mulliner name and expertise was acquired by Rolls-Royce, the then-parent of Bentley. The Mulliner name moved for one last time, to the old engineering experimental department at Bentley headquarters in Crewe, where it has been ever since. As part of its new strategy for the world’s oldest coachbuilder, Bentley has organised Mulliner’s operations into three distinct divisions: Classic, Collections and Coachbuilding.

The Classic division was launched last year with the announcement that Bentley would create 12 replicas of Sir Tim Birkin’s 1929 supercharged 4½-litre “Blower” - one of the most iconic Bentleys. Only four were ever built. Each car was individually handcrafted by a team of specialists and together, they form the world’s first pre-war race car continuation series. The division then rebuilt, from the ground-up, the only 1939 Corniche ever made. The original, lost and bomb-damaged in France during WWII, was a radical step forward in design for Bentley. It introduced ‘streamlining’ for better performance and its flow lines heavily influenced post-war models from the R Type Continental to the current Continental GT. The Collections division will continue to offer Mulliner’s core offering of special and limited editions of Bentley’s standard models. Some recent examples include the Mulsanne 6.75, Continental GT Convertible Number-One, Continental GT Number-Nine and the Mulsanne WO Edition. The division also offers clients the opportunity to personalise their Bentley’s with a seemingly endless list of options – from colour-matched paint, hide and thread combinations, to bespoke feature content. Some of the options that deserve a special mention include the Stone Veneers. It is less than a hundredth of a millimetre thick and is cut from Indian Quartzite Slate using specially developed tools. The Mulliner Tourbillon by Breitling is another. It has a natural or ebony mother-of-pearl case with diamond indices on a solid 18-carat rose gold or white gold case. Mulliner’s third division, Coachbuilding, was announced this March with the unveiling of its first creation - the Bacalar. The two-seat Barchetta - “the most exclusive and bespoke Bentley of the modern era” - marks a return to bespoke coachbuilding for Bentley Mulliner; a return to its roots. “While Bentley’s motto is ‘Be Extraordinary’, at Bentley Mulliner, we look to take it one step further - Beyond Extraordinary,” says Tracy Crump, Bentley Mulliner’s Head of Commercial Operations.

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Bentley Bentayga Mulliner

Bentley Continental GT Number 9 Edition by Mulliner SIGNÉ • EDITION 38

A U T O M O T I V E • T W E LV E O F A N E W B R E E D

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TWELVE OF A NEW BREED Introducing the car that heralds Mulliner’s return to coachbuilding

Mulliner’s all-new Bacalar - named after Laguna Bacalar in Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula, a lake renowned for its breathtaking natural beauty - is a limited edition of just 12 examples. Each will be engineered and handcrafted to individual customer’s tastes, and all 12 are already allocated. The Bacalar is a seamless fusion of design, materials and technology. It draws on design DNA from the beautifully sculpted Bentley EXP 100 GT concept car, launched last summer to celebrate Bentley’s centenary. It was recently judged the ‘Most Beautiful Concept Car of the Year’ at the French Festival Automobile International, and as the ‘Concept Car of the Year’ by GQ magazine. Sustainable, ethically sourced materials previewed in the concept car have made their way on to the Bacalar, just eight months after first being previewed. “The Bentley Mulliner Bacalar is our ultimate expression of an open-top, luxury grand tourer, and of the immense capabilities of our team in Crewe,” says Adrian Hallmark, Chairman and Chief Executive of Bentley Motors. “Bacalar is a rare and remarkable Bentley, and whilst clearly defined, will be an extraordinary and collaborative experience for just twelve discerning people who will now co-create, collect, drive and treasure one of twelve being built.” The Mulliner Bacalar is a genuine ‘roofless’ Barchetta – a luxury, two-seat, open-top, performance grand tourer. It shares no body panel with any other car in the Bentley model line-up except for the door handle with a Continental GT. This was because it is part of the keyless entry system. The rear “clamshell” and top deck of the Bacalar are crafted from lightweight aluminium, while the doors and wings are carbon fibre. Its exterior paint creates a three-dimensional effect. The Bacalar’s rear track is 20 mm wider than a Continental GT to provide a more muscular, sporting stance. They house bespoke, 22-inch tri-finish wheels that create dramatic depth and contour on the road. The distinctive front and rear horizontal lights also debuted on the EXP 100. The Bacalar name appears on the rear panel, ‘hidden’ behind the lacquer, with the capital ‘A’s influencing the contours of the lower bumper area.

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A U T O M O T I V E • T W E LV E O F A N E W B R E E D

“Bacalar is a rare and remarkable Bentley, and whilst clearly defined, will be an extraordinary and collaborative experience for just twelve discerning people who will now co-create, collect, drive and treasure one of twelve being built.” Adrian Hallmark, Chairman and Chief Executive, Bentley Motors.

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Bentley Mulliner Bacalar

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A U T O M O T I V E • T W E LV E O F A N E W B R E E D

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Mulliner designers chose to give the two-seater a ‘wraparound’ cockpit design. It flows continuously from a steeply angled centre console into the dashboard, before sweeping into the door panels. These then wrap towards a semi-enclosed luggage compartment behind the seats. The luggage compartment is purposely designed for the Schedoni luggage. Created exclusively for the Bacalar, the luggage matches the trim and materials of the cabin. These two luggage ‘pods’ flow from the interior to the exterior to envelop the seats. A new, knurled pattern was created for the iconic ‘bullseye’ vents – a pattern that was repeated around the interior on areas like the steering wheel controls, media and climate controls and even the intricate speaker frets. Each element has a fine, Dark Bronze detail to further enhance the finish, with Midnight Black Titanium detailing. The finest Beluga leather is sewn together with Bentley’s semi-gloss leather and natural wool using 148,199 individual stitches to create a dark ‘tone-on-tone’ character. On the demonstration car, Mulliner’s Khamun accent leather highlight is used in the cabin, which matches the Yellow Flame exterior paintwork. The car’s new D-shaped steering wheel features Alcantara inserts, with a contrast accent top marker. The gear-shifter is also finished in Alcantara with Dark Bronze detailing. Bentley has entered into collaborative relationships with selected suppliers and industry experts to create the new Bacalar. The veneer is cut from rare Riverwood, the sustainable wood from naturally fallen trees that have been preserved for 5,000 years in peat bogs, lakes and rivers found in the Fenlands of East Anglia, England. The wood has been air-dried in a controlled environment to prevent

damage and conserve its unique, natural characteristics. The straight grain of the dark wood enhances the Bacalar’s sweeping interior contours. The veneer is divided horizontally by a 3mm chrome strip. Above it, the veneer has a semi-matte finish that shows off its grain and colour, while below, it has a high gloss finish. Mulliner has collaborated with a British textile mill to produce a natural wool cloth akin to a fine tailor’s suit. It is found on the seat inserts, seatbacks, the side of the head restraints, the side of the centre console and the lower instrument panel, and on the doors. The luxury overmats are Wilton-woven pure-wool deep-pile carpets that are hand-carved to imitate the embroidered pattern found on the seats. The piping can be designed and customised to feature unique patterns, colour combinations and personal embossed effects. The paintwork features a pigment that is synthetically-manufactured using rice husk ash – a by-product from the rice industry. At the heart of the Bacalar is Bentley’s 6.0-litre, twinturbocharged W12 TSI engine coupled with a dual-clutch, eightspeed transmission for faster, more efficient gear changes. Its adaptive chassis uses Bentley’s intelligent, 48-volt Dynamic Ride System to provide a responsive ride and refined handling in all conditions. The air suspension system controls ride comfort and lateral roll, cushioning passengers from excessive movement, as well as making the Bacalar feel effortlessly precise. “We needed to push the boundaries as far as possible – customers were asking what Bentley’s take on a more expressivelooking car at this price point would look like. We were also tasked with starting to deliver on Bentley’s promise to use sustainable materials. Within less than a year of revealing our future-focused concept, we have already delivered on this promise,” says Stefan Sielaff, Bentley’s Director of Design.

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WA T C H E S • C O M P L E M E N T A R Y T I M I N G

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COMPLEMENTARY TIMING Breitling’s new chronograph celebrates the design elements of the Bentley Mulliner masterpiece

The Breitling Premier Bentley Mulliner Limited Edition chronograph (1,000 pieces), launched this March, commemorates the launch of the Bentley Continental GT Mulliner Convertible, arguably the most luxurious GT ever designed. On its dashboard is a Breitling clock. The new Breitling chronograph wristwatch has a great deal of aesthetic overlap with the dashboard clock and with the other interior design elements of the GT Mulliner Convertible. “The long-standing relationship between Bentley and Breitling is a reflection of the values we both share and our dedication to world-leading performance, luxury, innovation, and refinement. The links between the new Premier Bentley Mulliner Limited Edition watch and Bentley’s Continental GT Mulliner Convertible are evident in the exquisite engraving detail of the watch and the design features that reference the Breitling clock on the GT’s dashboard – a perfect display of Mulliner craftsmanship,” says Adrian Hallmark, Bentley Chairman and CEO. The Breitling Premier Bentley Mulliner watch features a 42-millimetre stainless steel case presented on a blue alligator leather strap, echoing the Imperial Blue leather interior of the car. On the left side of the case is a plate with an engraved “Bentley” inscription, whose design is based on the engine spin dashboard found in historic Bentleys. It is topped by a convex sapphire with double anti-reflective coating. Around the watch’s transparent sapphire caseback is an inscription that reads “Mulliner Edition – Breitling – One Of 1000.” Inside is the Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01, with a self-winding mechanical with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The watch is a COSC-certified chronometer. Its elegant silver dial recalls the GT Mulliner Convertible’s dashboard clock. It has two blue subdials: a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a small-second subdial at 9 o’clock. The dial features a white tachymeter scale on a blue inner bezel around the dial, with the tachymeter inscription in red. The links between the watch and the clock are further strengthened by their complementary sets of Arabic numerals: the dashboard clock features the numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9, while the watch has them at 1, 2, 4, 5, 7, 8, 10, and 11. Sharing these numerals across the two pieces is a nod to the design DNA they share. The central hour and minute hands have

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WA T C H E S • C O M P L E M E N T A R Y T I M I N G

The dashboard clock on the Bentley Continental GT Mulliner Convertible

Breitling Premier Bentley Mulliner Limited Edition 72

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Super-LumiNova luminescent coating. The red second hand and centred 60-minute scale mirror the red stitching found throughout the interior cabin of the GT Mulliner Convertible. The new Breitling timepiece commemorates 17 years of collaboration between the two brands – the longest-ever partnership between a watch brand and an automobile manufacturer. Breitling’s partnership with Bentley Motors began in 2002, when the luxury carmaker - then newly acquired by the VW group - was designing the first Continental GT. Bentley commissioned Breitling to create an onboard clock to add an extra touch of refinement to the interior of its new grand tourer. The first GT made its debut in 2003, the same year that Bentley returned to Le Mans for the first time since the legendary Bentley Boys won the 24 Hours of Le Mans race five times between 1924 and 1930. On its return to the world’s most famous endurance race, Bentley came in first and second. Breitling was Team Bentley’s main sponsor and created the Bentley Le Mans, a limited-edition chronograph to celebrate the feat. While Breitling’s official partnership with Bentley Motors can be traced back to 2002, there is a historical link between the two companies that go back a lot further. Willy Breitling, the watchmaker and grandson of the company’s founder Léon Breitling, was a committed Bentley owner. From the late 1940s onwards, he was a familiar sight on Swiss roads behind

the wheel of one of his beloved Bentleys. Willy, a man with flawless design instincts and a stylish personal flair, could not have imagined driving another automobile. The word “Premier” in the Breitling Premier Bentley Mulliner refers to the watchmaker’s new Premier Collection introduced in 2018. The collection reintroduced a name that holds a special significance for the prestige watch brand. The original Breitling Premier watches, introduced in the 1940s, were elegant watches which were defined by their fashionable flair. The new Premiers were introduced to extend this legacy with models that look to recreate some of the historic designs with an urban flair. The Premier watches inspired by the brand’s partnership with Bentley hold a privileged place in the collection because, according to the watchmaker, no luxury car brand in the world better reflects the essence of the Premier family with its elegance and flair, its performance, and its timeless design. Georges Kern, Breitling’s CEO, says: “The Premier Bentley Centenary Limited Edition that we launched a year ago was warmly received both by Bentley and Breitling fans. The Premier Bentley Mulliner Limited Edition, with its clear links between Bentley’s and our DNA, is a logical next step in our shared story. It is also a testimony to Bentley Mulliner, whose name is synonymous with heritage, craftsmanship, and outstanding performance.”

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AUTOMOTIVE • DISCOVERING KINGS ROAD

DISCOVERING KINGS ROAD Our review of the QX80 Limited, Infiniti’s limited-edition upgrade on its flagship

The QX80 Limited, a limited-edition model of Infiniti’s flagship off-road luxury SUV, was unveiled last November. The exterior and interiors of this upgraded QX80 have been refreshed along the lines of Infiniti’s ‘powerful elegance’ design language. It has also been given a few more specs as standard that are not available on the regular model. To put emphasis on the fact that the new SUV is not just a large luxury urban crawler but a serious off-roader as well, the brand chose to take a fleet of them on an expedition; to explore new discoveries in the ancient city of Petra, Jordan. This “Qxploration” expedition to Petra follows the one undertaken last year in the Gobi Desert, which saw the discovery of new dinosaur fossils. It was conducted as part of Infinity’s 30th anniversary. In Jordan, the fleet followed the ancient King’s Road from the Dead Sea to the newly discovered site in Petra. Sarah Parcak, a National Geographic Fellow and Archaeology Professor, and a colleague discovered the site - a 50 meter by 100-meter platform just south of the ancient city - with the help of satellite and drone remote sensing technology. The team surveyed the platform which “had been hiding in plain sight” until it was discovered. It is believed to have no known parallels among any of the other structures in Petra discovered thus far. Markus Leithe, Managing Director, Infiniti Middle East commented: “The sheer power of the QX80 Limited makes it the ideal choice for adventuring, whether on solo expeditions or family camping trips. Its 428 HP enables the driver to tackle the toughest of terrains effortlessly whilst feeling confidently

safeguarded with outstanding safety features. At the same time, the two-tone semi-aniline interiors complimented by advanced entertainment make it a joy to drive, providing the ultimate vehicle for on-road bonding time.” The SUV’s exterior features straight and more angular character lines for bodywork, sharper, thinner tail-lamps and light units, and a raised lower bumper section. It appears wider, taller and more athletic than its predecessor. The extended hood also creates a more squared-off, vertical front section, while large, functional fender vents maximize air delivery to the engine. The model features satin chrome exterior trim. As in the regular model, the windshield, the driver and front passenger windows have UV-reducing coating. They also have noise-insulation. The rear door glass, rear quarter windows and rear liftgate have dark privacy glass. The Limited is distinguished by a stainless-steel running board with rubber grips and welcome lighting beneath, satin chrome roof rails and crossbars, and radiant illuminated kick plates. The interior is modern, spacious and luxuriously handcrafted in quality materials including perforated and quilted leather. Black Ultrasuede covers the headliner as well as the A, B and C pillars. The A and B pillar grab handles are covered in stitched leather. The centre console is finished in matte silver, openpore Ash wood trim. The upper instrument panel is wrapped in leather with contrast stitching. The lettering “LIMITED” is inlaid on the centre console, and on the front and 2nd-row seatback. The brand’s metal logo appears on the exclusive high-density floor mats.

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Infinity QX80 Limited

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AUTOMOTIVE • DISCOVERING KINGS ROAD

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The “NASA-inspired” ergonomic seats have a distinct two-tone design featuring a combination of perforated semianiline premium leather and Alcantara leather with quilting and contrast piping and stitching. The front seats are heated and cooled. Like the standard QX80, the Limited offers 10way power driver’s seat and 8-way power passenger’s seat; both have 2-way power lumbar support. The driver’s seat has dual occupant memory as well as entry and exit assist in combination with the steering wheel. Infiniti’s InTouch infotainment system has also been updated, allowing drivers to personalize driving characteristics and the cabin environment. For entertainment, the Limited has the Theater Package with dual 8.0-inch colour monitors, two sets of wireless headphones, remote control, auxiliary audio-video input jacks. Sound quality is enhanced by Bose’s 15-speakers Cabin Surround sound system with digital 5.1 decoding. It has nine cupholders, four bottle holders and four 12V power points: two are in the front, 1 in the rear of the front centre console, and one in cargo-area. Ergonomic improvements give passengers a larger smartphone and tablet stowing area in the centre console. The QX80 Limited has four driving modes designed to reduce driver fatigue on long journeys, along with Active Noise Cancellation. It also has a host of driver-assist technology to make the task of managing such a large vehicle seem effortless. For those off-road trips, there is the 360-degree overhead view system to help avoid rocks, ruts and other obstacles called the

Around Vehicle Monitor. For paved roads, the Limited has, as standard, Vehicle Dynamic Control, Traction Control System, Hill Start Assist and Tow Mode function. Other features offered as standard exclusively on the Limited include Advanced Climate Control System with auto recirculation, Plasmacluster air purifier system, Grape Polyphenol filter, Intelligent Cruise Control, Distance Control Assist, Blind Spot Warning, Predictive Forward Collision Warning, Backup Collision Intervention, Lane Departure Warning and Lane Departure Prevention and Smart RearView Mirror, among others. The QX80 Limited is powered by the same longitudinally mounted aluminium 5.6L V8 engine found on the regular models. It produces 428 bhp at 5,800 rpm, and maximum torque of 560 newton-meter at 4,000 rpm. The maximum engine speed is 6,000 rpm. The engine is coupled with an automatic, seven-speed transmission. It comes with manual shift mode, Adaptive Shift Control and Downshift Rev Matching (DRM) as standard. Other standards include 4-wheel Anti-lock Braking System and Brake Assist and Electronic Brake Force Distribution. The front and rear suspension are double-wishbone as in the standard QX80 but have Hydraulic Body Motion Control system and Vehicle-speed-sensitive power-assist as standard. The tyres are mounted on exclusive 22-inch dark-finished forged aluminium-alloy wheels. The limited has a maximum towing capacity of 3,855 kg.

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AUTOMOTIVE • PURE JOY RENEWED

PURE JOY RENEWED Aston Martin’s Vantage Roadster is here to take motoring enthusiasts to new levels of joy

Two years after Aston Martin gave us a sleeker, more refined Vantage Coupé, the British marque has unveiled the convertible version of its much-beloved speedster. The Vantage Roadster, as it is officially known, is a two-seater that is nearly identical to its Coupé older sibling, in terms of performance, handling and styling. However, there are a few new extras that reveal themselves upon closer inspection. Matt Becker, Aston Martin Chief Engineer, said: “Convertible sports cars are often seen as compromised when compared to their Coupé equivalents, but the Vantage Roadster remains absolutely dedicated; true to its mission of delivering precise, agile and expressive handling dynamics combined with stonking straight-line performance. And of course, there’s the added dimension of driving a great-sounding sports car with the roof down.” The Roadster is powered by the same Mercedes-AMG-sourced Aston Martin 4.0-litre twin-turbo V8 engine as the Coupé. On the Roadster, it has a maximum power output of 503BHP at 6000rpm, with a maximum torque of 685NM between 2,000 and 5,000rpm. In the real world, this translates to a 0-to-100 kmph acceleration in 3.8 seconds, and a top speed of 306kmph with the roof raised. While the engine is front mid-mounted, the power is delivered to the rear-wheel, as in the Coupé. The engine is coupled with an 8-speed ZF automatic transmission, which is rear mid-mounted for better weight distribution. It has an alloy torque tube with carbon fibre propeller shaft and an Electronic Differential on the rear axle to manage the flow of the power to the rear wheel. Exhausts flow through a fully catalysed, electronicallycontrollable, stainless-steel exhaust system.

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The Aston Martin Vantage Roadster SIGNÉ • EDITION 38

AUTOMOTIVE • PURE JOY RENEWED

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The Roadster weighs just 60kg more than the Coupé thanks to a new, lighter Z-fold roof mechanism and optimised exterior and chassis revisions throughout the car. Structural shear panels and chassis components have been designed to ensure the Roadster retains the performance and handling characteristics experienced on the Coupé. While it has the same Adaptive Damping, Dynamic Stability Control and Dynamic Torque Vectoring as the Coupé, the Roadster benefits from specific dynamic refinements. These include a bespoke tune for the rear dampers, Adaptive Damping System software and ESP calibration. The Coupé comes with a choice of Sport, Sport+ and Track chassis modes - tuned specifically for the Roadster. These three are optimised to work in conjunction with the corresponding Sport, Sport+ and Track powertrain modes. This synchronising offers incremental increases in the car’s overall responsiveness. This means the Roadster offers a broad breadth of ability, either on the road or the racetrack. The folding fabric roof is tautly tailored and is operated by a compact, electric-powered Z-fold mechanism that delivers the fastest full operating cycle of any automatic automotive convertible system. It can lower the roof in just 6.7 seconds or raise it in 6.8 seconds at speeds of up to 50kmph. It also boasts an impressively low stack height, which enabled the designers to create a seamless rear profile with minimal impact on the Roadster’s luggage space. It has a boot capacity of 200-litres, enough to store a full-sized golf bag and accessories.

The Roadster debuts a range of new options that are being rolled out across the Vantage range. To celebrate the 70th Anniversary of the Vantage nameplate, Aston Martin is introducing the ‘vane’ grille as an option, available on both Coupé and Roadster as an alternative to the track-inspired ‘hunter’ grille featured on the Coupé during its launch in 2018. There is also a new range of optional alloy wheel designs in a choice of finishes. For enthusiasts, the brand now offers a manual seven-speed transmission as an option on the Coupé. This was, until now, only available in the limited-edition Vantage AMR. As with all Aston Martins, the Vantage Roadster comes with a seemingly endless array of customization options, from the set-packs such as Sports Plus, Exterior Black, Tech and Comfort Pack, or all-out bespoke customization with the brands Q division. Some stand-alone options include 16-way seat adjust, ventilated seats, leather steering wheel in combination with twill gloss carbon fibre or pure Alcantara, Q exterior graphics pack and many more. When asked to comment on the Vantage Roadster, Aston Martin President and CEO, Dr Andy Palmer, said: “Open-top Aston Martins are always firm favourites with our customers, so it’s very exciting to introduce the Vantage Roadster. For many, driving with the roof down is the true definition of the sports car experience as it truly brings your senses to life. Vantage has always delivered the purest of thrills, but in Roadster form, that adrenaline rush is set to go to the next level.”

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A U T O M O T I V E • D E B AT I N G T H E F U T U R E

The BMW Concept i4

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DEBATING THE FUTURE BMW’s Concept i4 debuts much of the design and technology that will be part of its upcoming EVs

Electric drive moves to the core of the BMW brand with the unveiling of the BMW Concept i4, a pure-electric Gran Coupe. The car also represents a look ahead to the BMW i4 - slated to enter production in 2021 - and includes several exterior and interior design elements which will make an appearance in both the BMW i4 and other electrically-powered production vehicles to come in the near future. The car’s standout numbers include a range of up to 600 km (WLTP), output of up to 530 hp, 0 to 100 kmph acceleration of approximately 4.0 seconds and a top speed in excess of 200 kmph. Beyond the numbers, we are told, the virtually silent delivery of power creates an entirely new sensation of dynamism. “The design of the BMW Concept i4 shows fantastic proportions, a powerfully expressive character and, of course, a lot of attention to detail,” says Domagoj Dukec, Head of BMW Design. “With the BMW Curved Display, we have redefined BMW’s signature driver focus in an extremely elegant way. At the same time, the BMW Concept i4 transports a feeling of sustainable driving pleasure.” The long wheelbase, fastback roofline and short overhangs form the basis of the car’s exterior profile. Crisp, smooth lines and taut volumes merge into a rich, smoothly contoured sculpture. Blue elements in the front end, flanks and rear reminisce the car’s BMW i origins. In the front, clean surfaces and a small number of crisp lines around the grille create a contemporary front-end graphic. The prominent, closed-off kidney grille now serves primarily as an intelligence panel housing various sensors. Two intricate, freestanding LED elements on either side integrate all of the requisite light functions. The rear sits low over the road and cuts a broad, horizontally emphasised figure. On either end are the long, slim L-shaped rear lights. Vertical air outlets emphasise the car’s sporting stance, and instead of exhaust tailpipes, there are diffuser elements that reference the design of the BMW i Vision Dynamics. The wheel rims have been designed exclusively for the car and blend aerodynamic efficiency, highstrength and lightweight construction. The BMW Concept i4 has a structured, bright and airy cabin which, in true BMW fashion, focuses on the driver. The new Curved Display, inclined towards the driver, encompasses the section in front of the driver and above the centre stack. It comprises a screen grouping that integrates almost all operating functions through

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A U T O M O T I V E • D E B AT I N G T H E F U T U R E

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intuitive touch operation. The display is part of an overall approach centred on reducing the number of haptic controls to the minimum. Non-reflective glass also removes the need for a shroud to shade the displays and therefore contributes to an uncluttered and airy cockpit. This approach offers a look ahead to the display in the production versions of the BMW iNEXT and BMW i4. Other elements, such as air outlets, are integrated almost invisibly into the overall presentation featuring strong patterns created through the understated use of different luxurious materials. There is an accent strip in warm Gold Bronze blend to chrome. The central control panel replaces a traditional gear lever with a toggle-type shifter. Elements such as the iDrive Controller and seat memory buttons in the doors are finished in a classy crystal glass. The cloth and leather combination for the seats are composed of microfibre with line graphics and natural leather tanned using olive leaves. The cut-out in the head restraints is a classy detail that references sporty BMW models from the current line-up. The rear passengers’ compartment offers generous levels of headroom and legroom. The Concept i4 debuts the synthesised sound developed as a collaboration between multi award-winning composer Hans Zimmer and BMW’s Sound Designer Renzo Vitale. Their brief

was to emotionalise BMW’s electric vehicles and make them audible relative to the three “Experience Modes” - Core, Sport and Efficient. The three are selected using the Curved Display with each selection determining everything from how the user experiences the display and graphics to how the interior is presented, including the ambient lighting. The Concept i4 also debut’s BMW’s fifth generation eDrive technology which is a defining feature of BMW’s future electric mobility - starting with the iX3, due to go into production in 2020, and followed by the iNEXT and the i4. The 5G eDrive’s electric motor, power electronics, charging unit and highvoltage battery are all-new developments. The electric motor developed for the BMW i4 generates maximum output of up to 390 kW or 530 hp, which ranks it alongside a current BMW V8 combustion engine. The newly designed high-voltage battery has an extremely slim construction, weighs roughly 550 kilograms, and has an energy content of around 80 kWh. As a cohesive unit, the eDrice technology sets new standards in terms of power density, efficiency and range. Adrian van Hooydonk, Senior Vice President BMW Group Design, summarised the car thus: “The BMW Concept i4 brings electrification to the core of the BMW brand. The design is dynamic, clean and elegant. In short: a perfect BMW that happens to be zero-emission.”

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ART & DESIGN • ALL BY HAND

ALL BY HAND Hands Carpets’ latest premium, handmade carpet collection creates an unconventional dialogue between the individual and the space it adorns

“There is such a thing as a perfect carpet. It requires an understanding of materials, spaces and restrictions and above all, a mastery of design and skill. We’ve shaped this into a precise science, having crafted them by hand, since 1881,” reads a statement on the website of - the little known but quite exceptional - Hands Carpets. This march, the luxury ‘floor art’ specialist launched its all-new Forma Collection, comprising twelve designs. Each beautifully hand tufted in 100 per cent bamboo silk. Each, an elegant expression of 3D illusionary art, brought alive through a seemingly infinite interplay of pile height variances, colours, textures, and patterns. “The carpets break design tradition,” said Ravi Patodia, Hands Carpets Managing Director, describing the collection. “These uncommon shapes explore the paradox between the formal and the informal, the obvious and the hidden. And alter the definition of a finite space, to make it about unusual possibilities.” “The beauty of these carpets lies in their indeterminate form - that can hold different meanings to different people. Because of this, entering the room becomes synonymous with entering the art in the carpet itself - to discover where it takes you. Two people sharing the same space might not have the same visual or even emotional experience.” Including the Forma Collection, the brand now offers a total of 14 collections, which are grouped under three different styles. The Contemporary Style comprises modern designs featuring diverse thematic, stylistic and colour trends such as geometrics, organics, abstract art and pop art, from the minimal to the bold and vibrant. The Forma collection is included in this Style, along with Mineralogy, Lithology, Urbane, Nouveau, Bouquet and Sculpted. The Traditional Style, as the name suggests, are handmade carpets with classic patterns, using traditional symbolism, motifs and cohesive colour. There are thee collections in this Style: French Savonneries, Amberlynn and Persian. The third Style is called Transitional and can be described as a hybrid of the two previous styles. They combine traditional carpet design elements with contemporary stylistics and colours. The objective here is to evoke sensations that are familiar yet new altogether. The four collections in this Style are: Cryptos, Transient, Lost Heritage and Once Forever. In addition to the three styles, Hands also entertains bespoke commissions. Clients, guided by the brand’s in-house design consultants, have the freedom to personalise their carpets down to the very last detail, and to the subtlest colour variation.

All the carpets manufactured by Hands are either handtufted or handwoven. A hand-tufted carpet is woven by hand - using a tufting gun. Yarn is punched through a backing material by the weaver following a pre-set pattern; switching colours and types of yarn as required. Pile height - the length of the visible pieces of yarn on the rug - can vary tremendously, based on the design. Tufting at Hands is sometimes done with an unpowered instrument. This requires firm hands, a steady temperament, and a skill that’s rare in these times. It often takes weeks to complete one carpet. Handwoven carpets are manufactured by the traditional knot-by-knot method. The heritage of the Hands carpets dates back to 1881 when an Englishman by the name A. Tellery discovered, by chance, a community of artistically gifted carpet weavers in Bhadohi, a tiny hamlet in the vicinity of the ancient Northern Indian city of Varanasi. He organised the community and began exporting their handwoven carpets to England and beyond. Hands Carpets was established by the Patodia family to continue the legacy established by Tellery and the carpet weavers of Bhadohi, also known as the Carpet City. Today every ‘art for the floor’ piece produced by the brand is handmade - from hand-knotted wool rugs to hand-tufted carpets, kilims (a flat tapestry-woven carpet) and dhurries (a traditional thin flat-woven rug from South Asia). When sourcing raw materials, the brand places a high priority on both quality and sustainability. For example, non-allergenic wool is acquired from New Zealand, and fine bamboo silk is made out of renewable forestry. The yarns are hand-dyed. All stages of the design and manufacturing process are inhouse with a capacity of 25,000 square meters per month. All products meet the latest standards of indoor air quality as laid down by ‘LEED Green Building,’ and the brand is ISO 14001 accredited. In addition to its commitment to improving the quality of lives of the carpet weavers of Bhadohi, the brand has also signed up with ‘Care & Fair’ and ‘Rugmark,’ two NGOs working to stop child-labour, particularly in the carpet knotting industries in South Asia. As a result of its commitment to quality, Hands carpets has accumulated an impressive portfolio of clients which include the White House, several royal palaces, and luxury hotels - the Plaza in New York City, the Burj Al Arab, Armani Hotel, and the Four Seasons Hotel in Dubai, to name a few. The Forma collection is available at the Hands Carpets Showroom at Dubai Design District.

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The Forma Collection by Hands Carpets

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ART & DESIGN • RESISTING DEFINITION

RESISTING DEFINITION A look at the relationship between Post-War and Contemporary Art

Artworks identified as Post-war and Contemporary are often clumped together when museums curate an exhibition or auction houses organise a sale, even though they are often considered by experts to belong to two fundamentally different movements. Their proximity comes from their common influences and the fact that they both emerged post World War II. To understand the differences and similarities between the two, we have to travel back in time; to the birth of the Modern Art movement. In 1863, Édouard Manet unveiled Le déjeuner sur l’herbe at the Salon des Refusés in Paris. Like all artworks, it was influenced by those that came before it. However, it is considered by most to be the first to embody the key elements of a modern work of art. It was nonconformist, as evidenced by its rejection by the jurors of the official Paris Salon. It portrays an ordinary, everyday event as the subject rather than the splendour of the elite or divinity from the past. It veered towards abstraction to depict the real world rather than realism. Impressionism, Post-impressionism, Symbolism, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Abstract art, Expressionism, Cubism, Surrealism and Social Realism are just some of the numerous art movements that emerged between Manet’s painting and World War II. The immeasurable impact the war had on the socio-economic fabric of the world would inevitability affect the world of art. Consensus is once again lacking on what exactly constitutes Post-war art. However, it is generally accepted that Post-war art comprises all the art movements that came into being after the end of the war and before the emergence of Contemporary art. This classification is over-simplistic, to say the least. The post-WWII world was bipolar, divided between the Capitalist West led by the USA and the Socialist East led by the USSR. This bipolarity was reflected in the art world as well. The years before, and during, WWII, Europe witnessed an exodus of artists, scholars, dealers and collectors of art to New York. By the time the war ended, European capitals were in

ruins, including Paris, the former epicentre of art. In unscathed New York meanwhile, the mixing of American and European aesthetics and money brought Abstract Expressionism to the fore. It became the first internationally dominant movement to emerge from the US art scene. Artists such as Jackson Pollock, Willem de Kooning, Franz Kline and Mark Rothko, among many others, who worked, lived or exhibited in New York City became the vanguards of the movement. In the Soviet Union, Art was under the overt direction of the Fine Arts Department, which officially has a preference for Socialist Realism - a style of idealised realistic art that glorified socialist values. Ironically, this style is related to the Social Realism movement that emerged in the Americas, and both trace their origins to the European Realism movement. Artists in the two decades following WWII either complied with these two dominant movements or, like the non-aligned movement, chose a third path. Most of these alternatives became the fountainheads of the Contemporary art movement that we have today. The Contemporary movement is in some ways more difficult to define than any that preceded it. The simplest definition is that it is the art of today. However, the art of today has been around since the 1950s. It is global with a seemingly endless combination of inspirations, materials, methods, concepts, and subjects. It distinguishes itself by the very lack of a manifesto - an organising framework or ideology. The emergence of Pop Art in the 1950s, pioneered by artists like Andy Warhol and Roy Lichtenstein as a reaction to the dominant Post-War art forms, is generally accepted as one of the most important alternative movements, if not the most important, that led to the emergence of Contemporary art. As the name suggests, it portrayed subjects from popular culture such as advertising, comic books and everyday mass-produced objects. Photorealism - a concurrent movement to Pop Art and popularised by artists like John Baeder and Chuck Close Richter focused on creating hyperrealistic drawings and paintings, often

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Kadhim Haider (Iraqi, 1932-1985) And a Horse is Selling Oil on canvas 24 3/8 x 38 3/8 in. (62 x 97.5cm.) Painted in 1965

All Photos Courtesy of Christies

using photographs. Conceptualism was pioneered by Robert Rauschenberg and Isidore Isou and carried forward by Jenny Holzer and Ai WeiWei. Here, the idea and the creative process behind an artwork becomes the subject. Installation Art and its variant Earth Art are both site-specific, often large and seek to create an immersive experience. Stree Art, or graffiti as some like to dismiss it, first claimed its own space in the 1980s with pioneers like Jean-Michel Basquiat and Keith Haring, and carried forward by the likes of Banksy and Shepard Fairey. Street Art has challenged art orthodoxy like no other, and in doing so, also embodies the nonconformist ethos of the Contemporary movement like no other. The Modern Art movement emerged to challenge the establishment’s definition of art. Post-WWII, the descendants of the founding movements became the establishment. The Contemporary movement emerged to challenge the new establishment. It has been doing it for over 70 years. Some of the more recent Contemporary artists have expanded the medium of expression to include such disparate forms of art as embroidery, origami, tattoos and even AI-driven visual art. By this evidence, Contemporary art is still resisting any attempts to define it and is likely to do so in the foreseeable future as well. Christie’s has led the international market for Post-War and Contemporary Art over the last decade. The auction house has Post-War & Contemporary Art auctions scheduled on the 25th and 26th June in New York, 29th and 30th June in Paris, followed by an Aristocratic Private Collection auction in London on July 23rd.`

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Dia Azzawi (Iraqi, b. 1939) Diary #3 Oil on canvas 50 x 40in. (127 x 101.7cm.) Painted in 1985-86

ART & DESIGN • LUXURY LIVING

LUXURY LIVING Brunello Cucinelli’s SS’20 Lifestyle Collection combines passion for art and craftsmanship The kitchen and the dining table form the beating heart of the home. Convivium, the dining and living room collection includes natural materials, minimalist shapes and handcrafted techniques that enhance daily gestures and homely flavors. Wood, steel and Murano glass creations populate the kitchen. The dining table is dressed in fresh and light linen, while ceramics exquisitely crafted by expert artisans enrich delicious dishes. The home is a place to share emotions, live out passions and search for spiritual well-being. The Home and Studio collection includes refined creations that evoke a delicate harmony between feelings and substance that warms the soul. The lightweight summer yarns of cushions are combined with the soft touch of blankets. Natural scents fill the home to express the mood at different moments of the day.

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“To invite people to dine with us is to make ourselves responsible for their well-being for as long as they are under our roofs.” Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

Convivium, the dining and living room collection SIGNÉ • EDITION 38

ART & DESIGN • LUXURY LIVING

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“A house is made with walls and beams; a home is built with love and dreams” Ralph Waldo Emerson

The Home and Studio collection SIGNÉ • EDITION 38

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

MB 01 HEADPHONES BY MONTBLANC Montblanc’s new wireless, over-ear headphone set combines high-end sound technology with fine materials and craftsmanship. The set has an ergonomic lightweight design combined with luxuriously soft leather ear cushions for lasting comfort. The headset has over 20 hours of battery life. The sensitive 40 mm neodymium dynamic drivers deliver sound developed in collaboration with sound expert Alex Rosson. Premium

audio hardware and active noise cancelling technology help tune out the surrounding noise. It is equipped with Bluetooth 5.0, a proximity sensor and aptX technology to ensure stable connectivity, while direct access to Google Assistant makes the operation hands free. Crafted in aluminium, soft leather and silicon, the headphones are available in three colour options black, light-grey and brown.

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BAG OF RIDDIM PORTABLE BLUETOOTH SPEAKER BY HOUSE OF MARLEY Crafted in sustainable materials: bamboo and Rewind - a durable, high-quality fabric weaved from 30% reclaimed organic cotton, 30% reclaimed hemp and 40% recycled PET. The rechargeable lithium Ion battery can last up to 10 hours with one full charge. It has a USB port for charging. Bluetooth connectivity allows wireless transmission from hundreds of devices up to a range of 15 metres. It comes with a Rewind fabric travelling bag with shoulder strap, handles and a front storage pocket. The Bass ports extend the frequency response of the driver and increases the efficiency of low frequencies. Dimensions: L54xH20xW22 cm Weight: 5.6 kg.

TURBINE WATCH WINDER BY RAPPORT LONDON

HEMINGWAY EDITION CAMOUFLAGE LEATHER CIGAR TRAVEL CASE BY PURO PRESTIGE The camouflage version of the classic design is fitted with a cedar wood rack which can hold four cigars up to ring gauge 60 and up to six and a half inches in length, or 4 Siglo VI size tubes. Cedarwood absorbs moisture and maintains a steady level of humidity. It is designed to hold all the tools and accessories including a lighter and cutter; all securely fastened inside. From the stitching to the zipper, to the camouflage finish, every aspect of the case is built to high-quality standards, and for durability. Every case comes with a 24k gold plated cigar rest.W

LEATHER BACKGAMMON SET BY WILLIAM & SON Founded in 1999 by William Asprey, a seventh-generation member of the Asprey family, the company has grown to become Mayfair’s go-to luxury destination for the city’s discerning citizenry, from the finest jewellery and timepieces to leather goods, homeware, attire and accessories. The backgammon set has been handcrafted in England from Navy, red and white Grampian leather. It comes with chrome-plated acrylic counters, four spot dice and one doubling dice. The silver-tone fastenings can be locked using the accompanying keys, while the top handle makes it easy to carry when travelling. It comes in a presentation box. Dimensions: L47.5xH7.5xW37.5 cm

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The Rapport London name traces its heritage to 1898 when a young Maurice A. Rapport built his first timepiece. Four generations later, the business remains a private limited company and still follows the philosophy laid down by the founder. Although it does not manufacture wristwatches, it specialises in watch and jewellery accessories, from winders to cases. The Turbine Watch Winder is inspired by the design of an aeroplane engine engineering and is crafted with meticulous attentionto-detail. It is finished in sleek black veneer base with silver plated fitments. It has selectable rotation direction. It makes an exquisite display piece for work or home desk. Measurements: H22x W26 cm.

L A D O L C E V I TA • T H E A R T O F C O F F E E

THE ART OF COFFEE We bring you a series of our favourite blends from the masters of coffee, Nespresso, and take a deep look into what makes each one so special

Ispirazione Napoli Napoli (Naples), the southern Italian metropolis by the sea is Italy’s capital of coffee. It is the home of the cuccumella, the three-part flip-coffee-pot that brought coffee-brewing into the kitchen of the masses. It is a proud industrial city with a nononsense approach. In Napoli’s coffee shops, the brown beverage is still brewed in century-old traditional brewers that have disappeared in most other places. Coffee is consumed throughout the day at cafés, or more precisely, coffee bars with standing counters. Like the people, the coffee here is strong, consumed with passion, and pronto with little fanfare. No sipping a cup over a leisurely chat here. The beverage of choice in Napoli is a deeproasted espresso – short, dark, strong and creamy.

It takes real skill to roast to the intense degree as they do in Napoli. Nespresso has curated its Ispirazione Napoli – the darkest and most intense roast to date with a maximum intensity rating of 13 out of 13 - to pay tribute to the expertise of the Neapolitan roasters. For this all-new blend, the alchemists at Nespresso combined Robusta from Uganda with a selection of Arabica coffees that could stand up to the intense roasting, while also producing the beautiful aromas, tastes, and textures that one experiences on the streets of Napoli. Ispirazione Napoli, like its inspiration, is velvety, creamy and full-bodied with a pleasant bitterness that lingers as an aftertaste.

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Ispirazione Venezia This all-new blend pays homage to Venezia (Venice), the merchant town that first introduced coffee to the land of espresso and cappuccino. Known as “the wine of Arabia,” coffee was first brought to the docks of Venice by Arabian traders. The wealthy merchants of Venice were enamoured by it. The church suspected it to be the instrument of a greater conspiracy by the Muslim Arabs to undermine Christianity, and thus deemed it a sinful drink. That is until the pope had a sip. With the burden of sin lifted, the first Venetian café opened around 1683 to serve the brown beverage to the masses accompanied by good food and conversations. Caffè Florian, established in 1720, is the world’s oldest coffee house to be in continuous service till today.

Brazilian Arabica, which Italy imports more than any other, forms the base of the blend and is complemented by high-grown Arabicas from Central and South America. These give the blend its malty and fruit profiles which develop during roasting. They also add the delicate aromas and the rounded taste that northern Italian coffee is known for. The Venetians were not only the first to master the art of blending, but also roasting, which tends to be lighter than in the southern parts. Ispirazione Venezia, likewise, gets a lighter roast. The result, a hint of fruity and floral aromas with the luxurious notes of sweet caramel. When milk is added to this full-bodied espresso, the result is rounded smoothness and subtle sweetness.

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L A D O L C E V I TA • R E S TA U R A N T S

MEDITERRANEAN BISTRO Carine at the Emirates Golf Club introduces new menu items for the season Overlooking lush green landscapes of the Emirates Golf Club and the city’s iconic skyline as a backdrop, Carine is a trendy, neighbourhood restaurant that brings unpretentious bistro dining to Dubai. Conceived and headed by Chef Izu Ani, the restaurant celebrates his love for his wife Carine and the story of how they met. The restaurant offers French Mediterranean inspired dishes, unique cocktails, a selection of freshly baked bread, delicious desserts and Carine’s signature homemade jam. This season, in addition to the restaurant’s classic dishes, Chef Izu and his team have curated a variety of simple, yet memorable new dishes. Some of the highlights include Cauliflower salad with Manchego Cheese, Fresh scallops with clementine dressing, Beef tartare,

Ireland sea oysters, Carine smoked salmon tartare, Grilled langoustine, Cured Bluefin tuna carpaccio, Sea bass carpaccio with citrus dressing, and Red snapper with lemon oil and fennel salad and more. The new arrivals on the dessert menu include: French toast with milk

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ice cream and caramelized almonds; lemon curd mousse with lemon-mint yuzu compote; rice pudding with vanilla ice cream, toasted hazelnuts and salted caramel sauce; apple and olive oil cake with malt ice cream; salted caramel ice cream topped with crumble. Every Friday and Saturday, from 8:30 am to 1:00 pm, the restaurant now serves a delectable breakfast menu filled with a selection of homemade pastries and baked breads, eggs prepared to preference, seasonal juices and healthy smoothies.

CARINE Emirates Golf Club +971 4 417 9999

FIVE-STAR DINING AT HOME Four Seasons launches Gastrohome, the hotel’s online delivery service After years of crafting truly exceptional and memorable dining experiences for guests across the resort’s multiple fine-dining establishments, and in light of the current situation sweeping the globe, Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach is offering the taste of some of their restaurants in the comfort of your own home with Gastrohome by Four Seasons. The online delivery service allows diners to choose from an enticing array of healthy and delicious dishes, prepared by Four Seasons culinary masters and indulge in a sumptuous feast in their homes. Spearheaded by Executive Chef Gilles Arzur, Gastrohome’s extensive menu accentuates the freshness of

inspiration from international influences the menu caters to all diets, whether it be plant-based dishes from their vegan restaurant Folia, or Roasted Sea Bass and Tom Yum Kung from Sea Fu, there is something for everyone, allowing the guests to still enjoy the taste of Four Seasons throughout this difficult time. Gastrohome is available on Talabat, UberEats and Zomato.

seasonal produce and showcases exquisite, international delicacies through the careful balancing of colours, flavours, textures and aromas to create sublimely delectable cuisine that supports a healthy lifestyle. Drawing

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FOUR SEASONS RESORT DUBAI Emirates Golf Club +971 4 417 9999

L A D O L C E V I TA • T H E J E W E L O F L E F T B A N K

THE JEWEL OF LEFT BANK The historic Hôtel Lutetia is set to reclaim its previous glory and its place in Parisian society

The Hotel Café Royal in London, the Conservatorium in Amsterdam and Lutetia in Paris - the three founding hotels of The Set hotel group - are located in the heart of their respective cities, both culturally and historically. Hôtel Lutetia is woven into the fabric of Paris. It was built by the owners of the nearby “Le Bon Marché” department store, to host their prestigious clients. Opened in 1910, its architecture was instrumental in the transition from the Art Nouveau of the day to the then-emerging style of Art Deco. Its bar became a hotspot for the emergence of jazz. Located in the creative neighbourhood of Saint-Germaindes-Prés, on the left bank of the Seine, the hotel was a magnet for the creative types. James Joyce wrote a part of his “Ulysses” while staying at the hotel, as did Albert Cohen while writing his masterpiece “Belle du Seigneur.” Pierre Assouline’s 2005 novel Lutetia is set in the hotel and populated by its actual guests. Ernest Hemingway, Samuel Beckett, André Malraux and Saint-Exupéry were regulars, as were Picasso, Matisse and Josephine Baker. A young De Gaulle spent his honeymoon at the hotel and left a suitcase behind during the evaluation of Paris. It hosted the top brass of the occupying force, was the HQ of the liberating force, and then a sanctuary for displaced persons and survivors of the concentration camps. In the 1980s, fashion icon Sonia Rykiel redesigned the hotel along with her in-hotel boutique. Guests such as sculptors Hiquily and Arman, and filmmaker David Lynch designed their own suites. The hotel was acquired by the Alrov group in 2010, and closed in 2014 for a reported US $234 million renovation under the stewardship of architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte. His brief: “to bring contemporary design to the hotel while preserving its

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heritage and unique charm.” The hotel reopened in 2018 with 184 rooms and 50 Suites, including seven Signature Suites, a 700sqm Spa with an indoor pool, two exceptional bars - Joséphine and Aristide, two outdoor patios and the legendary Brasserie Lutetia. Last year, following the committee meeting of the French Palace Commission, Jean-Yves Le Drian, Minister for Europe and Foreign Affairs, awarded the distinction of “Palace” to Hotel Lutetia. This year, the Hotel and its Spa Akasha were both awarded the Five-Star by Forbes Travel Guide. The pride of place in the renovated hotel goes to the seven Signature suites; each different in character but all evoking a residential style that is both modern and grand. The Presidential ‘Carré Rive Gauche’ is the largest suite. Imagined as a Parisian salon, it was designed in collaboration with the legendary Parisian antique institution whose name it bears. Housing a magnificent collection of artworks, the suite is ideal for entertaining with an elegant and bright dining room for eight, an adjoining kitchen, a spacious living room and a library curated by Gallimard. The St Germain Penthouse has an opulent bedroom and a generous living room with a furnished terrace. A winding staircase leads to a lavish 60sqm rooftop terrace. The Eiffel Penthouse comprises seven rooms, each with the swooping rooflines of the hotel. A glamorous marble stairway opens onto a 74 sqm rooftop terrace. Both terraces offer 360-degree views of the city, which includes the Eiffel Tower. Suite Amour is a duplex. On the first floor, a master bedroom with private terrace and Carrera marble-covered bathroom. On the second, a stylish sitting room with an elaborately carved terrace facing the Eiffel Tower. The Eiffel Writer’s Suite has a large balconied living room with views of the Eiffel Tower, a

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Hôtel Lutetia

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L A D O L C E V I TA • T H E J E W E L O F L E F T B A N K

Akasha Holistic spa

Presidential Suite bedroom 102

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Penthouse Suite terrace

library and writing area with more than 200 books, and a spacious bedroom. It is fitted throughout in golden oak and is flush with natural light. The Haute Couture Suite has a 20 sqm terrace that seats four guests, with separate living and dining areas. It is light and airy throughout, with silver and gold accents, Macassar wood alcove and bronze detailing. The Josephine Baker Suite offers views of the Eiffel Tower from all of its windows and the terrace. Throughout the onebedroom suite, smoked larch wood is used to create elegance and warmth. Lutetia has been the culinary heart of the Left Bank for more than a century and its signature Brasserie Lutetia has returned to its original 1910 layout: two-level indoor dining, along with private dining suites and outdoor tables on the terraces. It is now helmed by three-Michelin-star chef Gérald Passedat, bringing his famous seafood recipes to Paris for the first time. Le Saint-Germain, located in the heart of the hotel and under a radiant coloured-glass ceiling, breaks free of starter-main-dessert format to offer an assortment of refined gourmet delights. Bar Josephine, with its floor-to-ceiling Art Nouveau frescos and decor, is celebrated in song and literature. Bar Aristide has the feel of a private club, complete with a selection of books, eucalyptus panelling, hardwood floors and luxurious custom leather furnishings. The Akasha Holistic spa at Lutetia offers beauty treatments, fitness training and healing therapies. Every detail of the marble-covered spa was designed by Prize-winning architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte; from the bespoke treatment rooms to the secluded hammam, full-length pool and the state-of-theart gym. The treatments offered at the spa are curated by inhouse experts in collaboration with three major expert brands: Carita, Cellcosmet & Cellmen and Aromatherapy Associates.

The star masseur at the spa is Daniele Beniamini, rated among the best in the city, a deep-tissue specialist offering exceptional massages. Valérie Espinasse, whose clients include media and sports celebrities, offers micronutrition consulting. Christophe Nicolas Biot, the renowned Parisian hairstylist and specialist in plant-based hair colouring, offers his services at Sur-amesure hair salon. Attached to the spa is a 100 sqm fitness room bathed in natural light. It offers a wide range of state-of-the-art equipment and a selection of classes delivered by experienced fitness professionals including bootcamp, ladyfit, meditation, boxing, flow yoga, and deep stretching, among others. ”

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L A D O L C E V I T A • A P R I VA T E G E T AWAY

A PRIVATE GETAWAY The Velaa Private Island is the fruit of one man’s desire to create his own island paradise

Velaa Private Island is nestled within the constellation of islands that form the gorgeous Noonu Atoll in the Maldives, 45-minutes by seaplane or 187 kilometres north the Maldivian capital of Malé. Velaa, which means Turtle in the local language, takes its name from the sea turtles that flock there to nest and hatch in the vicinity. The island’s over-water villas are also constructed to resemble the head of a turtle, with the island forming the body; a view which greets guests on

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approach to the island by seaplane. The resort’s claim to fame is that it is the only resort in the Maldives with a snow room. Velaa is a private island in the real sense of the word. It is privately owned and managed by Czech financier Jirí Smejc and his wife, Radka. Jirí had visited the Maldives on numerous occasions in the last decade for a holiday. The islands became his favourite down-time destination. While many of the resorts he stayed at were beautiful, he felt that each had its

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Velaa Private Island

shortcomings. This led him to the idea of building his own private retreat - one where he could implement his ideas of what a luxurious private island resort should be. Jiri, who founded the investment group EMMA, is a close friend and business partner of billionaire Petr Kellner, one of Czech Republic’s wealthiest men. The two men co-own Home Credit, a prominent player in home finance in Russia, China and the Far-East. Jiri shared his ideas for the resort with Kellner, and the two decided to go ahead with the project with Jiri running the show. Jiri began by signing a 50-year lease for the island with the Maldivian government in 2010, when the island comprised of nothing more than thick bush and papaya fields. Jiri hired award-winning Czech architect Petr Kolar to design the resort.

His brief was to design “an elegant fusion of Maldivian culture with contemporary luxury, intimate with Maldivian nuances.” From the outset, Velaa Private Island has been designed with privacy and comfort as the guiding principles while allowing the Indian Ocean to take centre stage. The materials used in the construction had to be shipped in from around the world - wood panelling from Borneo, stone for pavements from the Jordanian desert which do not become hot in the sun, flowerpots from Indonesia, patio chairs from Italy and palm trees from neighbouring islands. Today, the resort comprises 47 private villas, houses and exclusive residences, with 18 of them being built over water. The Romantic Pool Residence, accessible only by boat, is an ultra-private, one-bedroom villa suspended above the lagoon.

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Romantic Pool Residence Bedroom SIGNÉ • EDITION 38

Velaa Private Island Over Water Villas

With uninterrupted views of the ocean, it is the perfect venue for an ultra-luxurious honeymoon. It comes with its own gym and spa treatment rooms. All the rooms open onto the terraces, where the Jacuzzi, pool, sundeck, sunken bath and jetty are located. Ocean Pool House, located on the exclusive tip of the island, is a two-bedroom overwater residence with two spacious bathrooms, its own pool and sun deck, two gazebos – one with a sunken hot tub and the other with daybeds. Velaa Private Residence is a two-storey, four-bedroom accommodating for up to 10 guests. It is ideal for friends and families. All four of its bedrooms face the ocean. Those on the first floor have generous balconies, while the ground floor rooms open onto two terraces. It has a courtyard and a central pool flanked by two gazebos. It also has a gym and spa room. The Beach Pool Houses are two-bedroom beachfront houses ideal for a family. Sunset Deluxe Water Pool Villas face the sunset. Each has a private pool and sun deck leading into the ocean, while the bedroom and bathroom open onto the terrace. The living room is designed around a viewing window set into the floor. Similarly, the Sunrise Water Pool Villas are eastward facing. Guests have a choice of six dining options on the resort, in addition to in-suite catering. The ivory-white 37-foot Tavaru tower hosts Velaa’s wine cellar, home to the largest wine and champagne collection in the Maldives. On the top of Tavaru tower is a teppanyaki grill with panoramic views of the resort. Aragu, with seating over the waters, serves innovative interpretations of the European cuisine using organic produce from around the world. Athiri is the resort’s beachfront, all-

day Á la carte restaurant. Its signature dish is a pizza, served fresh from the wood-fired oven. Avi is a casual pool bar by day and a vibrant cocktail bar by night, complete with its own mixologist. The CRU Champagne Lounge, under the guidance of expert sommeliers, is an elegant venue overlooking the waters of the Indian Ocean. For leisure, the resort offers a variety of outdoor activities. On water, there is stand-up paddleboard, kite surfing, or jet-ski. For underwater exploration, there are Sea Bobs for beginners and full diving equipment for the more experienced ones. The resort also has a variety of sea-vessels manned by expert sailors for the guests to avail, from the traditional Batheli, to the Weta trimaran, Topcat K1 catamaran, a fully furnished fishing boat and even a yacht. On land, there are covered tennis courts, along with squash, badminton, beach volleyball and a six-metre climbing wall. Yoga and meditation sessions are held either on a raised-tree platform with views of the golf course and lush island gardens or on a beachside platform. The gym features the latest TechnoGym fitness equipment and includes a Kinesis and Power Plate machine. The resort’s spa specialises in offering personalised holistic programme curated for the duration of a guest’s stay. The treatments employ a selection of Asian-inspired therapies including Ayurveda, yoga, meditation and fitness. The spa facilities also include an open-air jacuzzi, sauna and the accompanying snow room. Guests are treated to freshly prepared juices or a bottle of champagne. The Spa boutique also showcases various lifestyle products.

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L A D O L C E V I TA • D E S I G N E X C E L L E N C E

DESIGN EXCELLENCE Automobili Lamborghini x Principe collection is sure to please even the most demanding consumer Automobili Lamborghini and Principe, an Italian company specializing in leather goods, have come together for the development, production and distribution of a leather goods and travel collection under the Automobili Lamborghini brand. The collection consists of backpacks, trolleys, satchels, cross body bags, bags, belts and small leather goods and will be on sale from spring/summer 2020. “The partnership with Automobili Lamborghini fulfills Principe’s strategy of offering its international customers excellent products with differing styles,” said Alessandro Maroni, Principe’s Business Development Manager, speaking of the collaboration. “For us, offering excellence in terms of design, technology and quality is an essential value. When we extend the brand into different areas, we only choose partners who are as committed as Lamborghini to the same expression of excellence in their sector. In this product line we find the distinctive design features of Lamborghini super sports cars, a quality of the materials and an exceptional attention to detail in the realization of the products,” explained Katia Bassi, Chief Marketing & Communication Officer for Automobili Lamborghini. The unique partnership between these two companies combines the values of the Lamborghini brand with Principe’s experience and professionalism in designing excellent leather goods, offered in many different styles. The spring/summer 2020 collection will be available around the world at outlets, department stores, and duty-free shops as well as on the official Automobili Lamborghini online store.

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Automobili Lamborghini X Principe Leather Goods and Travel Collection

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L A D O L C E V I TA • L I G H T A N D T R E N D Y

LIGHT AND TRENDY Burberry’s BE4302 is for the fashionable with some practical options

Burberry BE4302 is a full-rim frame for men with an Aviator shape and a Single Bridge. These stylish glasses are ideal for everyday use. This is because the frame is constructed from Acetate - a material made out of cotton seed fibres and plasticizers. It is lightweight, making it comfortable for the wearer, and is versatile in terms of colour, texture, and patterns. The Burberry logo feature on the temple. These sunglasses can also accommodate prescription lenses. On certain colours, these sunglasses are available with polarized lenses - these are lenses that have a filter within

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the lens that blocks the wavelengths of light that cause glare. As a result, they enhance the contrast and allow for greater depth of vision. They are ideal for any situation where glare reduction is necessary, like driving in the mid-day sun or when playing sports. Gradient tinted lenses are also available in certain colours. Gradient tints start off as a darker shade at the top of a lens and then gradually lighten to transparent at the bottom of the lenses. These tints are a great fashion statement and are ideal for reading outside on sunny days.

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