S I G N É
THE TIME MACHINE
REVEALING ATTRIBUTES PARTICULAR TO RESPECTIVE PERSONALIT Y TR AITS, SIGNÉ SELECTS SOME EXCLUSIVE JAEGER-LECOULTRE TIMEPIECES FOR THOSE WHOSE’ APPEAR ANCE DEFINES THEIR PERSONA
OF SPACE AND TIME
ACCOMPAN YING NASA’S ASTRONAUTS THROUGH THEIR EXPLOR ATIONS HAS BEEN ONE WATCHMAKING BR AND – OMEGA. WE DELVE INTO HOW THE MAKERS OF TIME WITNESS THE UNIMAGINABLE MANIFEST
LIVING LEGEND Giorgio Armani, a man whose visions transformed the way clothing is defined, in an exclusive interview with Signé, unveils his story, his ambitions and what the future looks like for Armani
TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE VALLÉE DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WAT C H MA K ER S WER E SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF FINE WATCHMAKING.
ROYAL OAK PERPETUAL CALENDAR IN STAINLESS STEEL.
CONTENTS
Scholars 030
022 MAGESTIC MASTROIANNI Creating charisma in both the reel and the real life is an art not many have mastered. Mastrionni, however, is a class apart
024 THE COMEBACK Having started his career with Pal Zileri, Paolo Roviera re-enters the fashion brand, this time with expertise and quantifiable experience
028 SMOOTH SAILING From dreams to visions to magnificent realities, Mr. Mohammed Hussein Al Shaali of Gulf Craft effortlessly sails through it all
030 TELL-TALE CREATIONS A man having pioneered the art of craftsmanship, Khalid Shafar believes in taking it show. He takes Signé through his colorful journey
6
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
etro.com
CONTENTS
Savoir faire 034
034 LIVING LEGEND Celebrating 40 years of excellence, Giorgio Armani talks to Signé about his everlasting ambitions and what success means to him
042 LOOKING THROUGH TIME Developing timepieces that breakthrough the norms of accepted horology, is what Perrelet is known for. The Turbine model adds another feather to its crown
046 WATCH ARCHITECTS Swiss Watch Services is the region’s largest customer care centre for timepieces. Mr. Marco Bernasconi delves into how they transform watches into everlasting creations
050 FEELING THE TOUCH
Where sophisticated technology runs like blood in every innovation, the makers of Vertu add another spectacular smartphone to their collection - New Signature Touch
8
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
CONTENTS
Signé selection 052
062
052
062
Following the ‘Tribute’ theme of this edition, we have brought a selection of classic accessories, watches, bags and some stunning looks from brands like Berluti, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tod’s and more, in preparation for the upcoming Fall/Winter 2015
Going against the tide of trends, Nathalie Trad’s designs incorporate the elements of nature. Talking to Signé, she reveals her unconventional fashion philosophy
SPREZZATURA
10
FOR HER
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
CONTENTS
Philanthropy 068
066 UNITED THEY STAND Signé celebrates a moment of pride with three local finalists of the Cartier Women’s Initiative Awards, for making a mark in the region through their endeavors
068 OF SPACE AND TIME Being a witness to some of the most unprecedented journeys, Omega celebrates its eternal relationship with NASA. We discover some of their notable adventures
12
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
Understanding Finance: An art in itself!
CONTENTS
Obsession 072
072 MAN OF THE HOUR In an exclusive interview with Signé, Remy Julia of Christies’ deliberates over the scene of auctions in Dubai, its potential and future relevance
074
DRIVING THE SILVER SCREEN Bringing you a breathtaking insight, we take a look at the Rolls Royce ‘Inspired by Film’ model, one that creates history as it’s driven
076 THE ITALIAN JOB When a land from Italy is brought outside Italy, to a foreign land creating experiences, which defines its rich heritage, La Villa Dubai is created
080 THE TIME MACHINE Through an exceptional photo shoot, Signé takes a closer look into a few of the Jaeger-LeCoultre timepieces that exhibit different shades of a true gentleman’s personality
090 DAWN OF SPLENDOR Presenting a welcoming ode to the new season, Signé Society members meet and discuss their future plans and aspirations at the Hendrick’s bar, Dubai
14
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
CONTENTS
Heritage 094
094
A DRIVE THROUGH TIME From small beginnings to extravagant realities, we take a closer look at the evolution of Bentley, a masterpiece of a kind, through the ages
16
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
La dolce vita 106
102 TIN-DUSTRIAL CHIC With innovation taking leaps all over the world, Indigo Pearl resort in Phuket, by using the island’s tin mining past, builds a world of its own
106 TROPICAL LUXURY Located in the scenic islands of Mauritius, Constance Le Prince Maurice and Constance Belle Mare Plage make an idyllic destination for a perfect vacation
110 ARGENTINA, PLATED Bringing the opulent culture of Argentina to Dubai is Gaucho. Offering some mouthwatering delicacies, Gaucho redefines the fine dining experience
112 HAUTE SOCIÉTÉ Welcome the new season with some luxury shopping experiences at the Tryano and Vacheron Constantin boutique. To revamp your home with freshness, Blanc d’Ivore’s exclusive offerings are highly recommended. And when you have done it all, then a special Spa treatment at the Mandara or the Oberoi Spa is not a bad idea
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
17
Signed, Sealed, Delivered Subscribe to Signé, the finest curated, luxury lifestyle magazine experience in the region. Refined in content, elegant in aspect, elite in readership.
WWW.SIGNEMAGAZINE.COM/SUBSCRIBE
20
SCAN ME
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
Scan the QR Code to view the subscription page on your smartphones or tablets.
SCHOLARS
MAGNETIC MASTROIANNI
MAGNETIC MASTROIANNI
He was one of Italy’s finest film stars, and every director’s dream actor from the 1960s until his death in 1996. Marcello Mastroianni, once reputed as the quintessential European male, remains as celebrated for his charming personality and rakish style as his virtuosity on the big screen
Beverly Pereira The late Marcello Mastroianni had a charismatic presence, both onscreen and off. He was a picture of charm and good looks, not unlike many of his contemporaries. But the suave, slick-haired Italian actor had
cinema has ever seen – he was paired with the likes of Sophia Loren in over ten films – only adding to his irresistible allure. To men, he was the quintessential European man, admired for his style and personality.
good life, or ‘la dolce vita’, as the Italians would say. His larger-than-life attitude was evident off-screen, amid his torrid love stories with some of international cinema’s most beautiful and prolific actresses. His
a certain something that others didn’t – his ability to effortlessly take on a broad range of roles across his career, which spanned a little over half a century. Mastroianni set a new style of acting – a benchmark if you will – as the hero with no excesses, an attractive man with intellect to suit everyday situations. He rose to international fame in the neo-realist cinematic world of post-war
Meanwhile acclaimed directors, everyone from Fellini and Michelangelo Antonioni to Pietro Germi and Mario Monicelli, saw Mastroianni as a perfect fit for their films. He collaborated with several of these filmmakers during his illustrious career. Yet the most notable pairing of the lot was with Fellini, who called him “…the actor I prefer above all others…”. In Fellini’s 8½, Mastroianni
expensive houses, tasteful suits and splashy cars could hardly be counted on the fingers of one hand. Like his onscreen characters, he was linked with some of the most beautiful women in real life. He was married to actress Flora Carabella, with whom he had one child. They eventually parted ways because of infidelity on his part, and his post-separation years were spent with Faye Dunaway, his co-
Italy, particularly after he starred in Federico Fellini’s acclaimed film La Dolce Vita in 1960. Mastroianni was born in 1924 to parents who ran a carpentry shop in a small village of Fontana Liri in the Italian province of Frosinone, Lazio. For an actor who fast became the object of universal appeal, Mastroianni had a shaky start. He dreamt of becoming an architect, but made his onscreen debut at the age of 14 as an extra in Marionette (1939). Opportunity only arrived less than a dozen years later, when celebrated director Luchino Visconti discovered the budding actor. At the genesis of his career, Mastroianni’s first big film was Visconti’s Le Notti Bianche in 1957. However, it was really his role in Fellini’s La Dolce Vita, opposite the exquisite Anita Ekberg, that turned the affable actor into an international sensation. In the award-winning film, his customary charm and easy nonchalance best epitomise the Italian high life of that post-war era. Unsurprisingly women were seduced by Mastroianni’s rakish onscreen persona that inevitably fed his ‘Latin lover’ image.
appears to complement the director’s dreamlike cinematic vision. Their creative alchemy fuelled four more films and, even today, both men remain strongly associated with their joint repertoire of films. The actor would go on to play complex characters in a slew of films that are now eternal classics. In fact, by the time he had completed his last film in 1996, he already had an astounding 140 films to his credit. Whichever character he took on, be it a disillusioned tabloid columnist or a crisisridden personality, an impotent man or an exiled prince, Mastroianni unwittingly transported his audience to a higher plane, well above the cliché of sympathetic reaction. Take, for instance, Germi’s Divorzio all’Italiana (1961), in which he deftly portrayed yet another Italian stereotype while creating something of a parody of it all. His life was marked with a constant flow of honours, including many received at the Golden Globe Awards, British Academy Film Awards, Cannes Film Festival and Venice Film Festival.
star in A Place for Lovers (1968). Dunaway wanted to settle down and have his children, but Mastroianni refused to divorce his wife. He eventually went on to have a daughter with his co-star and partner of four years during the ‘70s, Catherine Deneuve. From the early 1980s until his death in 1996, he settled down with Anna Maria Tatò, an author and filmmaker. In an interview with French magazine Paris Match shortly before his death, Mastroianni had said: “I’ve loved life so much. When you get to my age, you realise life has slipped by… I just got here, and already I have to leave. It’s absurd.” Indeed, he enjoyed his own real life dolce vita, and life only seemed to love him back. Busying himself with films even during the last year of his life, he starred alongside Chiara Mastroianni, his daughter with Deneuve, in Three Lives and Only One Death (1996) by Chilean filmmaker Raúl Ruiz. Mastroianni passed away a few months after its release at the age of 72. The Trevi Fountain in Rome – immortalised in his first big film La Dolce Vita – was symbolically
Having almost always played one half of some of the most romantic couples that
Despite taking his craft very seriously, Mastroianni had a strong desire to live the
turned off and draped in black as a tribute to Europe’s best-loved leading man.
22
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
23
SCHOLARS
THE COMEBACK
THE COMEBACK
Italian menswear label Pal Zileri has entered a new era with a concept called Avant-Craft that deftly blends the old with the new. Its new CEO, Paolo Roviera, discusses the company’s dynamic return to fashion through its revamped image and brand strategies
Italian menswear label Pal Zileri has undergone a rebirth of sorts, much like the first blooms that mark the arrival of spring. It was evident at its Spring-Summer 2016 show at Milan Fashion Week in June, during which models walked down the runway in suits in muted reds, blues and greens, and shorts stitched from precious hides. The feel of the new collection was relaxed, casual even, but no less luxurious than the ‘old’ Pal Zileri. The evolution of the label’s attitude was in the making since 2014, when Qatar-based Mayhoola for Investments – also the parent company of Valentino – acquired a majority stake in the brand. Last year, the fashion house also named Paolo Roviera the new CEO, and Mauro Ravizza Krieger as its creative director.
24
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
25
SCHOLARS
THE COMEBACK
“Pal Zileri is not a fashion-oriented brand but a lifestyle-oriented one, designed to follow the emerging needs of a contemporary man who identifies himself with a relaxed aesthetic without forgetting to be sophisticated and elegant.” PA O L O R O V I E R A
Pal Zileri has been at the forefront of Italian menswear tailoring for
fashion-oriented brand but a lifestyle-oriented one, designed to follow
over 40 years, with stores in over 32 countries worldwide. Established in 1970, it has remained reputed for its traditionally tailored suits and made-to-measure services. Each Pal Zileri piece is made in its Quinto Vicentino workshops, often using as many as 180 different manufacturing steps. “Pal Zileri is located in the heart of one of the most important districts of quality production in Italy,” says Roviera, adding that clothes made in Vicenza have cuts and clean lines that allow for a contemporary and functional approach. He goes on to explain that the label has had the unique advantage of leveraging the craftsmanship
the emerging needs of a contemporary man who identifies himself with a relaxed aesthetic without forgetting to be sophisticated and elegant,” explains Roviera. Pal Zileri’s concepts, creative vision and stakeholders might have changed. Still, its evolved personality is not exactly a departure from its brand DNA. “Following thhe same principles that Pal Zileri has always held – quality, tradition and craftsmanship – a new chapter is being written through the use of cutting edge technologies to create a diversified wardrobe,” says Roviera. “Classicism is the foundation of
of those who have worked in this field for over four decades, with knowledge of the craft passed down across generations. However, over the years, the company lost some of its identity and appeal, admits Roviera, whose new role includes giving the brand a new face. When asked whether working at a fashion house stemmed from a passion or out of sheer circumstance, he replies: “I graduated in architecture, but when I was writing my thesis in industrial architecture, I approached the textile world. I decided to apply for a master’s degree on noble fibres since I understood that I was more talented in a field other than the profession for which I was studying.” Pal Zileri was one of his first work experiences, but he soon left to see what other things the world could offer him. Today, Roviera is more satisfied than ever to reinvest his time, creative energy and experience in the Pal Zileri brand. “What drove me to return was the ambition to be a part of this important project, which was to give a new face to a ‘Made in Italy’ company with great potential.” Roviera, who has over 15 years of experience in the business and previously worked at Ermenegildo Zegna, knows that he has been tasked with taking the storied Italian brand to the next level. He is, however, no stranger to the company that he is now running. Having interned at Forall Confezioni – the group that owns Pal Zileri – 15 years ago, he was privy to the company’s great legacy in skilled craftsmanship and attention to detail. Pal Zileri has always been about timeless Italian heritage, even the brand name evoking the name of an ancient building called Palazzo Zileri in the historic centre of Vicenza.
Pal Zileri’s new language, which is urban mixed with great personality.” While the company is forging a fresh global strategy in its new headquarters in Via Morimondo, Milan, Vicenza’s master craftspeople are as they always have been – using the finest materials, emerging technologies, traditional techniques and hours of handwork to create Pal Zileri’s pieces, signing their names on the labels of each one. In 2014, an archive containing Pal Zileri fabrics and patterns that were hugely popular in the 70s was unearthed. Echoing the designs of Pal Zileri’s new creative director, the new brand strategy is based on the concept of Avant-Craft, a balanced blend of tradition and avant-garde that gleans from the company’s most successful decade while adopting contemporary volumes and proportions. “We reintroduced handicraft steps that were lost in time in the production cycle and combined them with the most advanced technologies like laser cutting and thermo-taped materials,” says Roviera, whose all-time favourite pieces comprise a leather jacket and pants that can be worn as separates and add contrast to more formal pieces. “They allow me to show off my rock and roll side in my free time,” he quips. As Roviera is busying himself with the company’s new brand strategy that focuses on rationalisation of distribution, the new image and faster communication, he says: “We are working on the wholesale and retail channel, first thinking about the renovation of Pal Zileri’s historic locations in Milan and London, and then some new relocations in Dubai, Paris and Rome, and finally new store openings in New York and Beirut.” New store concepts that follow the brand philosophy of
Pal Zileri defines itself as a brand that is ‘For all but not for everyone’, a playful pun on the name of the company’s group. “Pal Zileri is not a
Avant-Craft also figure largely in his plan and will be introduced at Pal Zileri stores worldwide.
26
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
27
SCHOLARS
SMOOTH SAILING
SMOOTH SAILING From small boats to yachts and superyachts, Mohammed Hussein Al Shaali is the man behind the visionary achievement that is Gulf Craft. Spearheading the impeccable creativity, extensive knowledge and innovative thinking that Gulf Craft has demonstrated across three decades, he unveils how he managed to ride the wave of success amidst the currents of change
Diksha Vohra When Mohammed Hussein Al Shaali – a renowned name in the marine industry – reflects on his past, he finds it hard to ascertain the original starting point of Gulf Craft in terms of the ideology and inspiration behind it. Launched as a smallscale establishment in 1982, the UAE-based yacht and boat manufacturer saw an era of development into a full-fledged large-scale business. At the time, when other fields had better prospects for career establishment, Al Shaali took the plunge into the marine industry. The decision wasn’t a coincidence, but his passion for sailing that he inherited from his father, prompted the move. He recalls that during his childhood, he would gaze at the sea for hours on end and yearn to travel across it someday. The anticipated reality was, however, just a fragment in comparison to the dynamic venture existing today. “Since its establishment, we had an eye on the international market and planned on building a luxury yacht according to global standards,” says Al Shaali, who has launched some of the finest cruisers the world has ever seen. In an economy where the marine industry was not the focal point of development, Al Shaali explains how difficult and challenging it was to build a yacht that could not only meet the existing demand, but also carry impressions of fine craftsmanship. During the 1980s, there were no yacht manufacturers around and people in the region had no
Middle East, industry professionals had to be outsourced from the West to train the regional employees. In addition, many of the raw materials required for yacht building were unavailable, while the ones available lacked in quality. “We were able to overcome all the difficulties little by little because of our long-term strategy. We planned far but ensured our short-term failures don’t hinder our goals,” says Al Shaali. Gulf Craft is known not only for producing yachts, but distinguished yachts. Each conveys a different concept. According to the master maker, yachts are only as unique as your investment in them. The company’s yachts are unique in terms of their bespoke interiors and timeless exteriors, as well as usage of advanced technology and equipment. Another strikingly important aspect is that Gulf Craft builds one yacht at a time and does not believe in mass production. Hence, with each yacht being semi-customised to the needs of a client, the brand gets more room for development in all respects by each production. Whereas the recession in 2008 brought down most businesses in the UAE, Gulf Craft managed to survive the phase thanks to its conservative approach. The fact that the company constructs one yacht at a time leaves less material at risk as opposed to other mass manufacturers. Al Shaali, in addition, devised another strategy to cut through the stagnant situation. Reflecting on the economic downturn, he says: “We realised the
energy in researching how we could develop the quality and services of our yachts, and started building advance yachts for the same price –thus adding to our value. As a result, the recession did not pull us down, rather it picked us up and prepared us for a better future.” Additionally, Gulf Craft does not depend on one market but diverse markets, which further minimises the risk of loss. For Al Shaali, “...yachts are a manifestation of one’s ability to build a unique piece in terms of design, litigation, equipment and luxury.” Awarded for bringing the United Arab Emirates to the ninth position in the world for the production of superyachts, Gulf Craft launched its Majesty 155 this summer that at 47 metres in length, happens to be the biggest Gulf Craftbuilt superyacht. Targeting both local and international markets, the superyacht has been recognized globally, which successfully brings UAE into the centre-stage of yacht production. The superyacht not only has a luscious interior but also spacious rooms, a lift, a cigar lounge, a Jacuzzi set on the upper deck, a mosaicframed fountain, and much more to discover. Giving the world a compact arena for leisure, the Majesty 155 is incomparable in terms of its quality and its opulence. Having produced spectacular yachts, Gulf Craft is a multinational business with a focus on balancing experience, interest and aptitude amongst everyone involved. Looking ahead, Al Shaali plans on producing even larger and premium quality yachts, ones
experience with building luxury yachts. As technology was still developing in the
market was tough and even though we didn’t suffer much, others did. So we invested our
that could surpasses the zenith of envisaged pleasure and comfort.
28
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
“...Yachts are a manifestation of one’s ability to build a unique piece in terms of design, litigation, equipment and luxury.” MOHAMMED HUSSEIN AL SHAALI
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
29
SIGNÉ
MAN
TELL-TALE CREATIONS
Playing with different shades is what our Signé Man enjoys doing, be it on the canvas of life or in the interiors of a luscious apartment. An Emirati by origin, Khalid Shafar, founder and designer of KHALID SHAFAR bespoke furniture brand, strives to create change through his exceptional creative insights
Diksha Vohra While a polished combination of different patterns, showpieces, furniture items and wallpaper has its own aesthetic appeal for some, Shafar’s style is of a different nature – he incorporates different elements of his creations into a setting, wherein a blend of different colours on a neutral background provide focal points for our attention. As the renowned designer explains, his works reflect both his passions and his outlook towards life. When you hear the brand name ‘Khalid Shafar’, what is the first thought that comes to your mind? Interestingly, it’s not thoughts, but a surge of feelings that I experience. I feel a sense of sophistication, edginess and contemporariness. However, I do envision taking my brand to incomparable heights wherein I share these feelings with a greater audience. To me, the name has two identities – my brand and the real me. That is also precisely why I chose to name the brand after me because in my opinion, anything that touches my brand is about my creation and vision, and hence, touches me directly. What made you take up furniture design as a career? I actually have a degree in both business and interior design. Post-graduation, I chose to work in the field of marketing and communications. By 2005, I had finished my interior design degree, but did not use it until 2009. The shift, of course, didn’t happen overnight but was influenced by a series of events. Firstly, I wanted to pursue my career in furniture and secondly, the financial crisis hit Dubai in 2008, which further instigated my decision. I was just about to enter the field of hospitality and then realised I had to nourish my inherent skills and talents. I then proceeded to New Zealand to study furniture design, which brings me to this point. How does being a designer influence your purchase of cars, clothes, perfumes, watches and more? I think when we follow a certain profession, particularly a creative one, we like to convey that message across through our style appeal. For example, whenever I visit
30
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
Diksha Vohra
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
31
32
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
SIGNÉ
MAN
“ I think when we follow a certain profession, particularly a creative one, we like to convey that message across through our style appeal. ” K H A L I D S H A FA R
a hair stylist, I make sure to get a designer hairstyle done. I am not very adventurous with my looks, so I tend to keep it artistic but classic at the same time in order to not overdo it. In terms of clothes, too, I like to wear clothes that are different from the norm but elegant. In terms of my cologne, I used to have lots of them but now I keep one for the mornings and another for the evenings. The idea behind it is
What would you choose, and why? Bespoke vs. readymade? I would pick bespoke because it is unique and very individualistic, but it’s not always available. So I have to resort to readymade clothes sometimes. Workshop vs. boutique?
to create scent recognition so that when people perceive it, they know it’s me. As far as cars are concerned, I like the classics like Porsche and Range Rover.
I like the workshop atmosphere but only for leather products. To buy clothes, I would still go to boutiques as I enjoy their ambiance, especially concept stores. Business leave vs. leisure? I would love to take a leisure leave but I am too busy these days. Hence, during every business trip I take, I extend it a bit and do some leisure activities. That’s the best I can do with the limited time I have. Dubai vs. the West? Dubai, any day! I do see myself travelling to different places and
In terms of your home, is there a particular theme that the interiors follow? As I live with my family, I have done the interiors of the entire house, leaving some of their private spaces. I tend to have neutral surfaces on which I can play like a canvas. I like to create interiors that prompt people to walk in and have certain points to look at like wallpaper, a painting or a sculpture without having their eyes searching for what to look at. Additionally, I am not too fond of bright and striking colours. I have recently redone our family room with a neutral grey and white combination. I prefer to play around more with shades than with patterns.
even staying there for some time but eventually, I have to come back to Dubai.
Coming to your personal style, where in Dubai do you like to shop? Where shopping is concerned, only two names come to my mind. The first would be Boutique 1 as they have some really good brands that we can’t find elsewhere. The second would be Harvey Nichols.
What is your dream car and travel destination? I’ve always wanted to own a vintage classic Porsche Carrera. In fact, I was very close to purchasing one but held myself back – even the colour combination I’d choose is crystal clear in my mind. In terms of my dream travel destination, Cape Town in South Africa and some places in Argentina would be good to explore.
For each of the below, tell us where in Dubai you would prefer to visit? Breakfast It has to be one of the three – Baker & Spice, Tom & Serg, or Circle. Work conference The Pavilion in Downtown Dubai is one of my favourites for business meetings and conferences. High tea I am not much of a high tea person, but when my friends do plan, I like the lounge in the Armani Hotel for spending a casual evening. I also like the tea offerings at Vivel Patisserie. Midnight supper I really like the food at Bateel or Tasha’s for a midnight supper. They are both organic and healthy.
SIGNÉ
Five things you will not leave home without? Those would be my watch, wallet, mobile phone, laptop and key chain with the keys to my home, office, workshop and safe.
A must-have to complete your day… A soy latte from Starbucks is the one thing without which my day goes incomplete. I can have it at any time of the day, but once in a day is a must. Lastly, if given an option to go back in time and change one furniture creation of yours, which would it be and why? None actually. The reason is that when we make a design, that’s definitely not what goes into the showroom. A lot of the designs are eliminated and then the best ones are pushed forward. Not everything I create is a finished product. So yes, if it is about going back and developing a bit further, I will do so but none of my pieces would be changed entirely.
EDITION 15
33
S AV O I R FA I R
LIVING LEGEND
LIVING LEGEND As Italian label Giorgio Armani celebrates its 40th anniversary, one wonders whether the man behind the empire has any plans of slowing down. In an interview with Signé, the legendary designer Giorgio Armani speaks about everything from dressing celebrities and his idea of success to Dubai’s fashion sense and why he can relate to the city
In these times of rampant promotional puffery and publicity stunts, every other business is called an empire, and entrepreneurs are magically turned into creators of instant legacies. Yet, through all the smoke and mirrors, it’s not a task to identify the true legends. In the realm of fashion, Giorgio Armani is one of the few to have actually built an empire that has left a lasting impact on the industry. What started off in 1975 as the ready-to-wear Italian label Giorgio Armani is now a veritable force to be reckoned with, and to Armani loyalists, a lifestyle. Today, it comprises offerings as diverse as children’s fashion, home décor, cosmetics and fragrances, watches, restaurants and even hotels, in addition to attire for men and women. Solely owned and run by the Italian designer, now 81, the brand has a presence across the world with dramatic rises in annual sales. Armani has never been one to follow trends and has always opted to be in control of every stage of the design process, whether it concerns his brand’s fashion, interior design or other lines. His creative output across four decades has been so diverse and consistent that even a single book might not be able to sum it all up.
after which he enrolled in the armed forces where he was assigned to a military hospital. He eventually decided to look for an alternative career path and found a job as a window dresser, and later on as a salesman in the menswear section of a department store in Milan. It was at these formative jobs that the young Armani honed his eye for fashion. Before setting up his eponymous label, Armani founded a design consulting firm in Milan with the help of architect Sergio Galeotti in 1973. One year later, he presented his own menswear line in-between freelance consulting projects with fashion houses like Montedoro. It wasn’t until 1975 that the two would go on to set up the fashion house Giorgio Armani, one that fast became known for its subtle elegance and understated perfection for men and women alike.
like linen and in lighter colours like taupe and ‘greige’, a new colour developed by Armani. A novel take on the previously stuffy men’s suit, the softly constructed Armani suit became the cornerstone for office attire. Americans even went so far as to call it “power dressing”. The Armani suit is, inarguably, one of the few pieces of menswear that continues to define the style and trends of the 1980s. Men weren’t the only ones who swooned over the Armani touch, though. The streamlined, unstructured and relaxed suits for women by Giorgio Armani were just as revolutionary and provided an alternative to the dull and drab office attire of that time.
UNEXPECTED BEGINNINGS Armani entered the world of fashion by accident. He neither studied to become a
A SUITABLE REVOLUTION Within the next five years, the label went on to captivate the world. American Gigolo, starring Richard Gere as its protagonist, had just hit cinemas in 1980. Men across the world were captivated by Gere’s character, not so much for his onscreen hedonism, but his selfassured sense of dressing. Much of Gere’s wardrobe in the movie consisted of beautifully tailored Armani suits that were quite unlike anything that the 1980s man had ever known to exist. The Armani suit had a relaxed cut
FASHION’S MOST DIVERSIFIED BRAND Giorgio Armani is, unquestionably, one of the most diversified brands in fashion. What’s more is that each sub-label – whether highend or more accessible – under the Armani marque continues to enjoy exceptional levels of success. There’s the high-end Giorgio Armani label that specialises in ready-towear attire for men and women, cosmetics, fragrances and accessories. Emporio Armani focuses solely on runway collections with an annual showcase at Milan Fashion Week, while Armani Privé comprises riveting haute couture collections. Armani Collezioni offers made-to-measure tailored suits and other business-style attire. The Armani
fashion designer, nor did he intend to enter the field. Instead, he opted to study medicine
that did away with internal padding from the jacket. It was made from soft, fluid fabrics
Jeans and Armani Junior collections are self-explanatory, while the more accessible
34
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
35
S AV O I R FA I R
LIVING LEGEND
Armani Exchange that was launched in 1991, is inspired by street style. The diversity of the brand also shines through high-end ventures completely unrelated to fashion or beauty. Armani, the master of minimalism, is known to lend his signature touch to every space that carries the Armani banner – be it his restaurants,
narrates the brand’s story through themes that have inspired and continue to inspire the designer’s creative work and aesthetic. The curated exhibition, slated to change every few months, reflects Armani’s changing design sensibility and thought process over the passage of time. Students of fashion as well as visitors can get access to the archive area and
design the entire structure and its interiors, from the windowless building’s basilicainspired layout to its all-black ceilings, stark concrete floors and pools of natural light. It may not sound like much, but to visit Armani/ Silos is to step into Armani’s mind and to get a taste of the designer’s unmatchable – and unpredictable – genius. Amid the rawness
bars, cafés, hotels or lifestyle stores. He’s at the helm of the luxury home décor collection and interior design service Armani/Casa, an Armani-owned bookshop called Armani Libri, and Armani/Fiori, which brings the signature style and sophistication of the legendary Italian designer to floral décor. In the fine dining industry, Armani owns
workstations at Armani/Silos for research purposes, too. Even more fascinating is the fact that Armani took it upon himself to
and interplay of light and darkness, the Armani’s clothes come to life in an ever so ethereal way.
Emporio Armani and Armani Jeans cafes in London, Paris and other cities, as well as an Armani/Nobu located in the Emporio Armani store in Milan. The first Armani Hotel, opened in Burj Khalifa in 2010, is yet another luxurious extension of the Italian brand, as is the Armani Hotel Milano that opened the following year. ON THE RED CARPET Giorgio Armani might have made headway with American Gigolo and over 100 other films that followed, but the label has also been a seasoned red carpet fixture after being favoured by some of Hollywood’s most famous stars. From Anne Hathaway’s shimmering gown in 2009 and Cate Blanchett’s embellished creation in 2014 – both at the Oscars – to some of the most memorable designs worn by Michelle Pfeiffer, Gwyneth Paltrow and Jodie Foster, the famed Giorgio Armani touch remains as coveted as ever. SPACE AND TIME Armani/Silos, an exhibition space in Milan, is perhaps the most fitting tribute to the legendary Italian designer. Opened this April as part of the brand’s 40th anniversary celebrations, it is also the definitive place to get an insight into Armani’s creative output during the past four decades. Set in an old grain silos once used by Nestlé, the fourstory structure now houses 600 garments, 200 accessories and a host of Armani’s archive designs and sketches. Not arranged in chronological order, the selection of creations
36
Richard Gere from American Gigolo
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
37
S AV O I R FA I R
LIVING LEGEND
“ I think the achievement I’m most proud of is to have created a lifestyle that customers can easily relate to, and to have designed pieces that are not only beautiful or elegant, but can determine new attitudes while following – and perhaps facilitating – changes in social patterns. The fact that my work had such a strong, tangible impact on the daily lives of people is a victory for me.” GIORGIO ARMANI
38
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
39
S AV O I R FA I R
LIVING LEGEND
In an interview with Signé, the living legend takes us through his early days as a designer right up to his future plans for the brand
What does the recently opened Armani/Silos mean to you? Armani/Silos is not a museum, but rather a recognition of my work with a view to shape the future by analysing the past. The idea came to me as I was thinking that the brand’s 40th anniversary could be an opportunity
Back in 1975, while laying the foundation of Giorgio Armani, is there any interesting incident that you will always remember? When my partner Sergio Galeotti and I decided to establish the company back in 1975, we were really excited about it, but had a small budget. I remember that I had to sell my white Volkswagen Beetle, a car I was very fond of, to buy the furniture for our first office on Corso Venezia 37 in Milan. Fortunately, things worked out well for us and I managed to buy the car back as soon as I could.
to reflect on my long career path and how it was influenced by changes in customs and society. I thought that bringing clothes, accessories, bags and technical drawings together in a single space as an archiving project with a particular, personal perspective would be a concrete way to turn the past into a basis for progress.
Forty years is a milestone, not because of the timespan, but what you have managed to build during it. How do you currently feel? Achieving a 40-year-long career by relying on my own strength and managing to keep my business independent is greatly satisfying, of course. However, I think the achievement I’m most proud of is to have created a lifestyle that customers can easily relate to, and to have designed pieces that are not only beautiful or elegant, but can determine new attitudes while following – and perhaps facilitating – changes in social patterns. The fact that my work had such a strong, tangible impact on the daily lives of people is a victory for me.
that if I wanted to go on, I had to keep my company independent. To do that, I had to take over the reins of everything, including from a financial standpoint. It was a natural process, although it was very challenging. Now I call myself a fashion designer and a businessman, and my vision of business is an integral part of my way of doing fashion.
What does fashion mean to you? I think that fashion is a powerful means of expression, which leads to the creation of pieces that are both beautiful and charged with emotion. Fashion lies at the heart of human expression, and it is a perfect mirror of society and its culture. You have no educational background in the fashion industry. Yet, you have made a significant contribution to the fashion world and built an empire. How did you manage to do this and what was the secret? This is true. I must confess that, at least in the beginning, I had no fire in the belly for fashion. I fell into this job almost by accident as I came from a different background, but there is no secret behind my success. There is only passion and complete dedication to my job, which is now my whole life. I wouldn’t trade it for anything in the world.
40
In your 40 years of experience in the fashion industry, what was the most challenging aspect? I think it was when my partner Sergio Galeotti died. I soon realised
We believe Giorgio Armani clothes enhanced the glamour of Hollywood and not the other way round. How did you get into dressing Hollywood? It all started with American Gigolo, the impact of which was crucial. Nobody thought that this film would be so successful, but in fact it became a symbol of what the ‘80s were all about, as well as an important showcase for my fashion. It helped me make myself known in the United States, where I started to receive plenty of requests. Then, when I started to dress celebrities for red carpets, I decided to establish a close dialogue with them, with relationships often developing into close friendships. I think people appreciate some human contact. Can you describe a Giorgio Armani man and his lifestyle? He is a man who has his own taste and fashion awareness, and knows what he really likes. He is also genuinely curious about everything around him, hungry for knowledge and opportunities to learn. He is open to all things amazing, beautiful, uplifting, new and unseen that life has to offer. He is one whose aesthetics go beyond the accepted norms of luxury.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
Martin Scorsese, Giorgio Armani and Leonardo DiCaprio
On an inspirational level, what do you think connects the different Armani lines, from clothes and cafes to interior design and hotels? My job is basically instinctive. It comes from appreciating luxurious and natural materials, clean and harmonious lines. This is the initial challenge, and it makes no difference whether you’re dealing with fine wood or a beautiful piece of fabric. When it comes to furniture and interiors, they are developed with industry experts under my direction since I’m used to working in a team. The common thread is my sense of aesthetics – the choice to always take something off rather than add, and let the beauty of finishes and materials be enhanced by a simple design.
Rome wasn’t built in a day, but Dubai was built in 20 years and put the UAE on the global map. What is your opinion of the city in general? I am deeply fascinated by Dubai, although it is my opposite – it is so visible, flashy and hectic. It also has a fast-paced, future-oriented soul – always in pursuit of innovation – and this is the side I can relate to because it is so much like me.
Being crowned the king of fashion is quite an achievement. What does success mean to you? It’s the ability to keep my company independent, to pursue my vision freely, and to always launch new projects.
What is your take on fashion in Dubai and why did you decide to open the Armani Hotel? The city is an exciting, cosmopolitan one. It is modern, vibrant and full of opportunities. It was important for me to be there with my Armani Hotel. Today, the Middle East is undoubtedly one of the most important markets for my brand, in terms of sales as well as the type of customers. In addition to loving elegance, its people are becoming increasingly demanding and attentive to detail.
What are the qualities that every entrepreneur must possess, especially in the fashion industry? You should never be hasty. You need to have a very realistic vision of yourself, and think about whether you are good at this job or not. You
What does the future of Armani look like? My desire is to keep my business in step with the times, but without changing the signature features of the Armani lifestyle. About future plans, I can tell you that I always enjoy the challenges that come from
need to ask yourself whether or not you are up to the challenge. I think this self-awareness is a major selling point.
keeping an open mind to areas other than fashion. I feel it is important to look everywhere for inspiration, you never know what clicks.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
41
S AV O I R FA I R E
LOOKING THROUGH TIME
LOOKING THROUGH TIME
Perrelet, an innovator in the field of horology, has consistently blended its unrivalled technical prowess with a supreme aesthetic code. Its ever-evolving Turbine model, a design that is unique to the watch house and well rooted in the brand’s DNA, is just one of the pioneering innovations that sets Perrelet apart from others
Perrelet knows more than a thing or two about what watch connoisseurs want. As the innovator behind the game-changing double rotor and the instantly recognisable Turbine collection, the luxury watchmaker has always been at the forefront of haute horology with a contemporary twist. Born in the Swiss village and watchmaking centre of Le Locle, the brand has been associated with many firsts, from the time of its origin almost 250 years ago up to the present. For one, it has unfailingly been ahead of the movement game. By 1777, Perrelet’s founder, AbrahamLouis Perrelet, had already invented and perfected a self-winding mechanism for pocket watches with central oscillating weight. Forming the very basis for every Perrelet watch to come, this strong tradition of equipping each of its timepieces with automatic movements remains a mainstay for the distinguished watch house. Besides showcasing an unparalleled technical virtuosity, the brand continues to be celebrated for holding craftsmanship at its very core. One of the most distinct features of a Perrelet watch is an open case back that permits a good view of the movement. Yet another is a specially designed rotor with an inlaid glass segment. Not every watch house can claim to be associated with this level of attention to detail – seen on both movements and cases. Teaming with an avant-garde spirit, Perrelet has consistently evolved with the times, driven by a passion for precision, technical excellence and distinctive aesthetics. In 1995, the watch house perfected the first-of-its-kind double rotor system that featured the patented Perrelet P-181 calibre. It was the introduction of the Perrelet Turbine model in 2009 that further proved the brand’s mettle for maintaining a balance between functionality and design. An interpretation of the double rotor concept, the Turbine collection takes a cue from the formative self-winding mechanism of Perrelet watches that had a spinning rotor connected to the automatic rotor on its rear.
42
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
43
S AV O I R FA I R E
LOOKING THROUGH TIME
Playing with transparency effects requires an unmatchable level of artistic finesse and technical knowledge of the movement’s constraints, which Perrelet engravers and watchmakers display in abundance. The visually striking Turbine collection transforms the dial-mounted rotor into a mini 12-blade turbine, or propeller that spins with the motion of the wrist, creating a unique impression with its extreme rotating speed. There have since been countless iterations, including both chronograph and tourbillon complications, and a number of special editions, based on this seminal line of timepieces. The Turbine Pilot collection, for instance, presents a truly unique aviator watch for aviation and sports professionals as well as those with a discerning eye for design. The watch associates the revolutionary turbine concept with that of the circular aviation slide rule. Perrelet’s in-house mechanical automatic P-331 calibre is housed in a stainless steel case that displays a 48mm diameter adorned with the brand’s signature fluted pattern. Comprising four models, the Turbine Pilot collection has a decidedly masculine and sporty appeal with the clever arrangement of elements against the yellow and white dial background for a three-dimensional feel. Perrelet took on a new challenge altogether when it presented its Turbine Skeleton collection, which pioneers the house’s watchmaking genius of combining the art of skeleton-working with its visually aesthetic turbine system. Allowing the eye to travel into the heart of the mechanism, the watch’s finely crafted in-house movement Caliber
connoisseurs and design enthusiasts alike. When spinning at full speed, its aluminium turbine – directly mounted on the open-worked under-dial for an unobstructed view of the watch’s inner workings – reveals the movement’s ethereal architecture through each of its openings. Playing with transparency effects requires an unmatchable level of artistic finesse and technical knowledge of the movement’s constraints, which Perrelet engravers and watchmakers display in abundance. Over the years, Perrelet has continually explored the possibilities afforded by its pioneering double rotor watches through the lens of the aesthetically driven Turbine concept. The limited-edition Turbine XL Vegas collection comprises three generously proportioned watches: Turbine XL Poker, Turbine XL Playing With Fire and Turbine XL Roulette. Fitted with the P-331 self-winding movement, these special edition watches symbolise the lifestyle of tuxedo-clad men who like to up the stakes in the grand world of casinos. The Turbine XL Poker timepiece conceals a winning hand that decorates the under-dial and is revealed when the titanium turbine spins at full speed. The Turbine XL Playing With Fire model has an under-dial ignited by gold, while the XL Roulette version carries the iconic red and black divisions of the game’s symbolic wheel of fortune. Watches are no longer viewed as
P-381 is skeletonised to reveal the wonder of its inner workings. The Turbine Skeleton watch is a true piece of art, appreciated by horology
mere mechanical objects that mark the movement of time, and Perrelet seems to understand this truism only too well.
44
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
45
S AV O I R FA I R E
W AT C H A R C H I T E C T S
WATCH ARCHITECTS Timepieces, today, are not mere indicators of time but reflect a sense of passion and knowledge of creativity. Mr. Marco Bernasconi, General Manager of Swiss Watch Services, explains how the region’s largest and most comprehensive customer care centre transforms these masterpieces into timeless classics
Diksha Vohra
46
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons has long being known for its commitment to care for watches, even after they have been sold. Upholding the policy of building a lasting relationship by offering exceptional support, which engenders the loyalty and satisfaction of a customer, the group recently opened Swiss Watch Services to provide
and calibration. This is done with the aid of sophisticated timing measurement machines. While the watchmaker works on the movement, the polisher simultaneously works on the case and bracelet. The components are pre-cleaned, polished and refurbished to factory standards on
after-sales service to all of its brand partners. The Dubai-based facility’s General Manager describes their relentless dedication to maintain the superior quality of individual attention extended to every watch and every customer, every time.
professional polishing machines, and then cleaned again in ultrasonic baths to remove any polishing residues. The watchcase is then reassembled and new gaskets fitted. Waterproof models are further tested in our various equipment, both in depression and under pressure, according to model specifications. When all these tasks are completed, the dial and hands are fitted back on the movement and the watch is completely reassembled. It then goes to the final inspection, where the aesthetics and all watch functions are checked once more before delivery to the customer.
Can you start by giving us a brief background on Swiss Watch Services? Its history dates back to 1964, when one dedicated technician was singlehandedly able to service approximately 400 watches per year within a small workshop in Souk Murshid. Today, 51 years later, we occupy a complete floor in Capricorn Tower and employ 59 staff taking care of over 35,000 watches annually. Which brands do your services cater to? We service more than 65 brands. These range from the world’s most complicated mechanical timepieces such as Patek Philippe, Rolex, Hublot and Chopard to accessory fashion watches. Can you talk us through the actual process of watch repair – when does it start and how much time do you take to repair one timepiece? The watch repair starts with a technical analysis of the timepiece during which all the major functions and components, both of the mechanism as well as the exterior parts, are checked. Based on this analysis, a detailed individual estimate is drawn up and submitted to the customer for approval. After receipt of the approval, the watch goes to our casing section, where the bracelet is detached from the case, the case is opened and the movement is removed. From there, the movement goes to the watchmaker for service, and the case and bracelet to the polisher for refurbishment. The watchmaker completely disassembles the movement. While doing this, he checks each component for wear and directly replaces it, if needed. The disassembled movement is then cleaned in a movementcleaning machine using special solutions. Afterwards, the movement is reassembled and fresh lubricants applied. Once reassembled, the mechanism then goes through the delicate phase of time adjustment
During all these steps, intermediate controls are carried out to ensure our high quality standards in terms of precision, power reserve and aesthetics. The whole process that is called a complete service takes 3 to 4 weeks from customer approval to delivery, depending on the watch condition and availability of spare parts. To be able to compete with other service houses worldwide, how advanced is your equipment and how skilled are your technicians in terms of technique? We have at our disposal the most advanced technical equipment available in the watch industry. The factories in Switzerland train our technicians, with the most skilled professionals handling highly advanced, mechanical timepieces, including those with perpetual calendars. Our service centre is quite unique in terms of equipment and expertise considering the large number of brands we are handling. How many watches are repaired locally versus sent back to manufacturers? Of the 35,000 watches we service annually, only approximately 900 are sent back to the manufacturers, mostly extremely complicated, very old or much damaged pieces. Swiss Watch Services is the largest after-sales centre in the region. Are you planning to expand further in the future? We are constantly thinking of better ways to serve our customers. Our new facility is the best example of our commitment to service, and we will announce any new improvements as they are implemented.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
47
S AV O I R FA I R E
W AT C H A R C H I T E C T
Mr. Marco Bernasconi, General Manager of Swiss Watch Services
What are the various types and levels of services you offer at Swiss Watch Services? Which is the most challenging one? We provide everything from simple battery replacements on fashion watches to complete services of highly complicated mechanical timepieces. The most challenging service is a complete overhaul as described earlier. Apart from the complication of the mechanism, the older the watch, the more challenging the service becomes as parts may become unavailable and therefore irreplaceable. What are the various types of services that clients seek? Is there any particular service that cannot be fixed locally? If so, why? Most clients bring their watches to us when they are facing a malfunction or an accidental damage. Other than that, they often just want their watches to be re-polished. We can manage all kinds of repairs. The only watches we are unable to service locally are highly complicated ones that can only be repaired at the factories, very old ones for which we are unable to get spare parts, and severely damaged ones.
factories. With every training, the factories gradually build up the technicians’ skill level and certification for handling more and more complicated mechanisms. Does the value of exclusive timepieces reduce after you have repaired them? Servicing watches by us actually helps preserve their value. We only service brands for which we are officially certified and use only genuine spare parts supplied by the concerned factories. Also, we strictly follow the international repair procedures and timing standards provided by the brands. A watch serviced by Swiss Watch Services receives the exact same treatment as provided by the factories themselves in Switzerland.
When handling complicated watches, what is the level of expertise you need to have?
Brands generally offer a warranty with purchase. What is the importance of having the watch serviced at Swiss Watch Services versus other after-sales centres? Being an officially certified service centre, we have the necessary expertise and spare parts to take care of any warranty issues professionally. We accept any valid warranty for the brands we cater to, and also provide our own guarantee on our interventions. Customers
To work on complicated movements, you need at least 10 to 15 years of experience and various training sessions from the concerned watch
should absolutely avoid having their watches repaired by non-certified after-sales centres as such interventions void any official warranty.
48
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
49
S AV O I R FA I R E
FEELING THE TOUCH
FEELING THE TOUCH Combining exclusivity with technology, Vertu releases the next generation of its pinnacle high performance smartphone – New Signature Touch. Featuring some of the latest innovations, the phone leaves an everlasting sensation behind
Where technology has become an intrinsic aspect of our lives, few brands seem to understand the need of creating a holistic smartphone that can not only extend the borders of the accepted norms of telecom luxury, but can also compete with others in terms of its style appeal and visual uniqueness. Vertu is one such brand, which has apparently pioneered the art of producing performance oriented and stylish phones in contemporary times. Having begun working on the luxury mobile phone concept in 1998, today Vertu leads the market with a range of phones like the Vertu Signature, Vertu Aster and the renowned – Vertu Signature Touch, the latest addition of which has been launched. Balancing high performance technology, dedicated services and peerless build quality, the New Signature Touch is the latest smartphone from Vertu. With a fine leather and handcrafted case covering the smartphone, the Android 5.1 Lollipop promises improved speed and clarity and Vertu’s full portfolio of services, which comprise Dedicated Concierge as well as Vertu LIFE and Vertu CERTAINTY packages, ensuring a seamless user experience. Giving a much clearer, crisper look, the New Signature Touch has very little interfering with its geometric design.
with the details being distilled and pared down to their simplest form. Interestingly, there is a space inside for personal engraving. The pillow of the phone, too, has a confident form and is made from one large piece of ceramic for cleaner aesthetic. In terms of performance, delivering extraordinary color saturation through its remarkable display, the phone’s clarity is preserved and protected by a solid piece of Sapphire Crystal. Furthermore, providing an exceptional brightness is the 5.2” Full-HD LCD display having 428 pixels per inch, the display gives over a 100 ppi higher resolution than any other phone present in the market today. Accompanying the unprecedented quality of the phone displays, the sound and imaging essentials can’t be overlooked. Guaranteeing you have an uninterrupted conversation over the device, the call quality is maintained by the uplink and downlink noise cancelling. Moreover, featuring Vertu’s custom Image Signal Processor and camera application software, the New Signature Touch includes the most powerful camera ever. Designed under the Vertu ethos of a ‘one world phone’ the New Signature Touch also confirms that no matter where you are in the world, your phone has the optimum set up for the region that you are in. The global WiFi access supplied by iPass is also enabled in
addition to the services the brand offers is the Vertu LIFE, which provides customers a personalized selection of exclusive privileges and unrestricted access to elite events, available directly on device. One can also avail complimentary entry to the most exclusive and niche private members’ clubs around the world, in addition to invitation only events and closed door shopping experiences. The system also learns about your tastes and preferences and the more you use it, the more it becomes attuned and tailored to your needs. An expression of the ultimate bespoke technology is what can best define the latest innovation. On the other hand, Vertu CERTAINTY enhances the customer, their Vertu phone and their data through best-in-class technology and expert partners. This includes encrypted communications, comprising voice calls, text and video, delivered in partnership with Silent Circle. In addition, the Vertu Lost Phone service enables you to lock, wipe, find and ring your Vertu at any time, providing absolute security should your phone ever be mislaid. Vertu Sync enables a smooth transition from iOS by connecting your Vertu to your iCloud contacts and calendar. Delivering an unrivalled synergy of hand craftsmanship and materials, unique design, latest technology and curated services, the Vertu – New Signature Touch crosses all
Following the footsteps of its ancestors, the device also includes the iconic Vertu elements
the smartphone, which is the brand’s only global consumer partnership. A fascinating
frontiers of technical innovations and quality sophistications.
50
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
Vertu - New Signature Touch
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
51
SPREZZATURA WORD: SPREZ·ZA·TU·RA PRONUNCIATION: /ˌsprɛtsəˈt(j)ʊərə / sprāt-tsä-ˈtü-rä DEFINITION: rehearsed spontaneity, studied nonchalance and well-practised naturalness
Ralph Lauren FW 2015/16
52
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
Etro FW 2015/16
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
53
S PR E Z ZAT UR A
Dolce & Gabbana FW 2015/16
54
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
Girogio Armani FW 2015/16
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
55
S PR E Z ZAT UR A
Prada
Berluti
Bottega veneta
56
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
S PR E Z ZAT UR A
Santoni
Berluti
Salvatore Ferragamo
Christian Louboutin
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
57
S PR E Z ZAT UR A
1
2
3 4
1. Tod’s : Sunglasses 2. Salvatore Ferragamo : Money Clip 3. Gucci : Scarf 4. Prada Luna Rossa : Perfume 5. Montblanc : Pen 6. Salvatore Ferragamo : Belt 5
6
58
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
1 1. Salvatore Ferragamo : Sunglasses 2. Christian Louboutin : Toiletry Bag 3. Montblanc & Samsung : Phone Cover 4. Bally : Toiletry Bag 5. Tod’s : Card Holder
2
3
4
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
5
59
S PR E Z ZAT UR A
Sir John Franklin : Arnold & Son
Baume Et Mercier : Classima
60
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
Tazio Nuvolari : Eberhard & Co
Vacheron Constantin
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
61
FOR HER
CRAFTING NATURE Lebanese designer Nathalie Trad is known for pushing the boundaries of accessory design through the use of sculptural shapes and unusual materials such as seashell, stainless steel and lacquered woods. She speaks to Signé about her fashion philosophy and the journey that led her here
Diksha Vohra Born in Beirut and raised in Dubai, Nathalie Trad has always had a penchant for all things asymmetrical. It was her aesthetic desire to de-construct and redefine conventional shapes that took her to two leading fashion institutes – ESMOD in Paris and Parsons in New York – for her education, followed by internships at Yves Saint Laurent and Proenza Schouler. Drawing inspiration from both, nature and her Middle Eastern heritage, Trad’s dramatic designs are likened to objets d’art and enjoy a strong presence in some of the world’s finest luxury stores today.
Were you always interested in design
How did studying in Paris shape your personality, tastes and lifestyle? Eager to experience the fashion world from an early age, I set off for Paris in 2007, where I enrolled at ESMOD to earn a BA in Fashion
Saint Laurent, still under the helm of Stefano Pilati. By the time I got there, it was a very different place from when Mr. Saint Laurent was designing. From small enterprises to large corporations, the fashion landscape has changed in the last few decades, and I wanted to gain experience at a top fashion label to understand how the business of fashion works. In 2008, I made my way to New York, where I received a BBA in Design and Management from Parsons. This time around, I decided to work at an emerging label, Proenza Schouler. No two fashion labels are alike, and it was important for me to get a grasp of the nuts and bolts of working in a much smaller business and understanding the challenges they face. It was also an opportunity for me to focus on my number one passion, which is designing accessories. I worked closely with Proenza Schouler’s accessories designer, creating shoes, handbags and jewellery. Both New York and Paris are fashion capitals and so, living there, you are inherently surrounded by inspiration. From a designer’s perspective, these cities definitely serve as a breeding ground for creativity as you are constantly exposed to the world’s biggest and most cutting-edge fashion houses. This means you get to reflect on, absorb and take stock of what you see – not just big statements on the runway, but also street trends – and then redirect this new flow of energy into your own
or did you develop a passion for it over time?
and Accessories Design. While I was there, I landed an internship at the house of Yves
work. It also pushes you to expand the realm of possibilities with your designs and create
You are known for designing geometric accessories using unusual materials. How did the idea come about? Designing accessories gave me a solution to the puzzle I had been seeking – how do I take classic shape that are ubiquitous in our natural environment, and radically transform them, de-constructing and redefining the boundaries of fashion aesthetics. I didn’t want to just create accessories, I wanted to create edgy statement sculptures that would allow whoever was wearing them to stand out and make their own statement. I wanted to push the existing boundaries of accessories and re-create what we already know.
62
I grew up in a particularly creative family – my father is in advertising, my mother owns a beautiful flower shop and my sister is also a fashion designer. The environment I grew up in, witnessing the transformation of Dubai, and being a part of a family and environment of art and design contributed tremendously to my passion for the design world. The market today is excessively saturated with different brands, each trying to be unique. What were some of the challenges you faced while establishing your brand, particularly in the West? The most challenging element is being the creative driver of the business, while at the same time, running it on a day-to-day basis. The best part for me is being able to decide on the creative direction of the season and shaping the business in line with my vision. Nevertheless, being a small business owner requires being proactive on every possible front. It means that I need to play several roles, sometimes all in the span of a day. The challenge is to not allow this to interfere with or limit my creativity.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
63
FOR HER
truly innovative pieces. So, in a way, I would say that my time there did more than just shape my collection and my vision – it gave
wood. My collections blend fine materials and techniques to produce artisanal, gem-like clutches destined to become collector’s pieces.
me a strong foundation. Is there anyone in the industry whose work inspires you above others? I like to think of my creations as architectural works on a small scale and look to architecture from a physical aspect – geometry, proportions, ergonomics and structure – for inspiration. Beyond that, I study architectural principles and ideologies as a means of creating context and driving my process. Louis Kahn, James Stirling, Walter Gropius, Frank Gehry, Zaha Hadid are some of the architects whose aesthetics and philosophies have impacted my design mentality and some of my pieces. What, in your opinion, makes your brand stand out amongst the rest? My aim, first and foremost, is to create unique sculptural pieces that invite curiosity by fusing contrasting material combinations. I would say the general vibe of my design style is architectural, avant-garde and highly geometric. Each clutch takes at least two weeks to be perfected, and is carefully handcrafted by artisans using a combination of materials such as brass, copper, shell and
64
What is your favourite holiday destination? I always like to go somewhere I have never been to discover a new country and culture.
Since art is a form of expression, do you take conscious care of how you look and express yourself to others? To me, fashion is the art of design and aesthetics. It extends beyond how people dress or what they wear – it’s very much a lifestyle, a powerful form of self-expression and a major component of contemporary culture. What is your style on an average day like? My clothing style is quite simple; I usually wear monochromatic or solid colours and non-figure hugging shapes. I prefer to make a statement with accessories. What I wear is a reflection of who I am so it is important that my look represents my personality. My clothes are usually the canvas, and my accessories, the paint.
After a hectic day at work, where do you like to spend a casual evening? I enjoy a simple night in with my husband, listening to some good music on our record player, or a gathering of my friends and family around a great meal and drinks at one of my favourite restaurants. In terms of expanding your brand further, what are your future plans? I have big dreams of becoming an international brand but the most important thing for me is to take it one step at a time, remain true to myself, and make sure the fundamentals are right along the way.
What are some of your favourite fashion brands? There are so many that it would be impossible to list them all! In my opinion, every season
To you, Dubai is…? Dubai is a vibrant, thriving city and a gateway between the East and the West. Dubai represents a city that will never cease to evolve, recreate and outdo itself, thus serving as the perfect example for me. It pushes me to expand the realm of
brings about something new and exciting, and so the list is always fluctuating and evolving.
possibilities with my designs and create truly innovative pieces.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
AUTUMN/WINTER 2015 B Y N AT H A L I E T R A D
With regal tones of burgundy, rose gold and ice blue, the collection showcases her meticulous eye for detail to create unique pieces of modern luxury that are both irresistible objects of desire, as well as precious heirlooms that can be passed down from one generation to the next. This season boasts strong lines and graphic patterns, fusing an array of rich natural materials from wood, mother of pearl, paua blue, shell as well as hand worked metals including copper and stainless steel.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
65
PHILANTHROPY
U N I T E D T H E Y S TA N D
UNITED THEY STAND The Cartier Women’s Initiative Awards celebrates and supports female entrepreneurs through funding, coaching, international visibility and networking opportunities. Among the 20 finalists this year are three innovators from the Middle East
Epitomising the height of luxury since its founding in 1847, Cartier has broken ground on various fronts over the
all nationalities across Latin America, North America, Europe, Sub-Saharan Africa, Middle East & North Africa, and Asia-Pacific, and from
Mouna Abbassy runs the UAE-based Izil Beauty that produces cosmetics and beauty products made from Argan oil and other
years. Besides pioneering some of the most celebrated designs and jewellery techniques, the French luxury house also established the Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art in 1984, displaying an ongoing commitment to showcasing the works of established and upand-coming artists to this day. At the same time, the company has also remained rooted to its founding values of creativity, innovation
all sectors. The mission of this competition is threefold. It identifies and supports initial-phase female entrepreneurs through funding and coaching. Each of the laureates from the six regions are presented with a support package of $20,000 of funding, one year of coaching, networking opportunities and media exposure. The competition also fosters the spirit of enterprise by celebrating
rare, natural ingredients imported from Morocco. Originally from Morocco, Abbassy grew up with women who prepared their own homemade beauty recipes using Moroccan natural ingredients. When she moved to Dubai 10 years ago to kick-start a career as a marketing professional for multinational cosmetic brands, Abbassy realised that many brands in the market claimed to rejuvenate
and social responsibility through initiatives that give back to the community. Women with initiative have always been a source of inspiration for Cartier, and supporting them in business naturally found a place among its many commitments to society. The Cartier Women’s Initiative Awards is the outcome of this desire to champion a very pressing need across the world. Launched in 2006 in partnership with the Women’s Forum, McKinsey & Company and INSEAD Business School, this international business plan competition identifies, supports and encourages the spirit of enterprise among women. Entrepreneurship, especially in the start-up phase, is no easy task. Besides difficulties in gathering funds, barriers such as access to networks and mentorships also hinder the commencement of a start-up. The Cartier Women’s Initiative Awards honours six female entrepreneurs – one from each of the six world regions – for the creativity, financial sustainability and social impact of their start-up business. The contest is aimed at creative start-
role models in entrepreneurship. Finally, it creates an international network of women entrepreneurs and encourages peer networking. The Cartier Women’s Initiative Awards for 2015 received over 1,700 applications from more than 100 countries. A total of 20 finalists, running 18 businesses, were shortlisted during the first round of the competition that was announced earlier in June of this year. They are currently being coached by professionals from Cartier, INSEAD and McKinsey & Company, and will make their appearance at the second round of the competition that will take place this month. The final awards ceremony that lauds the six winners is slated to take place on October 15th, in conjunction with the Annual Global Meeting of the Women’s Forum for the Economy and Society, in Deauville, France. The finalists have distinguished themselves through the impact they are making in bringing people together, developing a more connected science, redesigning our food supply, and creating from natural resources. Three of this year’s finalists are from the Middle East,
the skin or even eliminate skin conditions through the use of products that contain chemicals. In response to the growing demand for natural and organic chemicals, she went on to develop Izil Beauty, inspired by Moroccan beauty rituals including the use of Argan oil and Ghassoul clay. Abbassy chose to manufacture her cosmetics in Morocco with the aim of increasing employment prospects among the Berbers, a community to which she belongs. As of now, 15 women from Morocco are employed at the company, she says, adding that those from the Berber community are the labour behind the extraction of Argan oil. While she was in the process of creating the company, Abbassy studied cosmetics in London to improve the formulation of her products. Ecocert, a French certification body for organic agricultural products, has already certified some of the company’s ingredients. Through Izil, which translates to “pure” in Moroccan Berber, the young entrepreneur hopes to create a shift in mindsets by promoting a different image of beauty.
ups that are not only financially viable, but also socially responsible, run by women of
and each of them brings a very unique and innovative concept to the table.
Abbassy has established the brand at four kiosks across the UAE and hopes to launch
66
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
Eman Hylooz
Sarah Hawilo
Mouna Abbassy
an e-commerce platform for Izil Beauty in the future. Eman Hylooz, who hails from Amman, started an online and mobile social network for readers, authors and publishers of Arabic literature based on the absence of such a platform. Called Abjjad, which stands for the first four letters of the Arabic alphabet, the platform permits users to share their favourite publications through reviews and ratings. It also enables authors to interact with their fan base, and gives publishers the opportunity to boost their digital marketing. In fact, the 31-year-old Jordanian is an avid reader who became acquainted with Arabic literature during her childhood years, and attributes the absence of a similar platform to the lack of digital marketing for Arabic books. Armed with a background in computer sciences, work experience in software development, and a course on how to
2012. She utilised seed funding provided by Oasis500, one of the main business incubators in the Middle East and Africa, and launched a crowdfunding campaign that enabled her to hire staff. At present, Abjjad works with three full-time employees and 15 freelancers, while the community has since touched 95,000 registered members who can access a catalogue of 130,000 Arabic book titles. For the 30-yearold Sarah Hawilo, research revealed that the crucial link between restaurant owners and diners failed to exist. The Beirut-based entrepreneur was in the midst of conducting research for a restaurant reservation app, but instead went on to make a very important discovery. She realised that technology could be harnessed by both restaurateurs and diners for an improved experience. She soon co-founded serVme, an interactive app and analytics software that not only permits users to reserve a table at restaurants, but that also
“Restaurants are having a lot of trouble understanding who their customers are,” says Hawilo, adding that a tool to capture information about diners was really the need of the hour for better service, increased revenues and lowered marketing budgets. The serVme software is operational at 60 venues in Lebanon with plans to expand its network to Dubai. The company started off with producing software funded by a government programme for low interest debt financing. At present, it has nine full- and part-time employees, and is fast growing as a start-up by utilising seed funding. Since the awards were launched in 2006, more than 125 finalists have benefitted from coaching and support. Cartier has a sizeable number of female employees; women also form a major part of the company’s main customer base. This long-term commitment to assisting female entrepreneurs in realising
transform an idea into a real business model, Hylooz launched the first version of Abjjad in
assists restaurateurs in meeting customer expectations by collecting and analysing data.
their business goals adds another proverbial jewel to the Cartier crown.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
67
PHILANTHROPY
O F S PA C E A N D T I M E
OF SPACE AND TIME The infallible Omega Speedmaster watch was a constant companion to NASA astronauts during some of the boldest missions in space. As the Swiss watchmaker continues to play an incomparable role in pushing the frontiers of space exploration, we look back at some of its milestones
Beverly Pereira Omega’s continuing spirit of space exploration is truly worthy of a celebration and earlier this year, a black tie dinner hosted in its honour was every bit as stellar as it was intended to be. Guests at the event, which was held in May, sipped cocktails inside a huge aircraft hangar in Houston, Texas that had been skilfully transformed into an impressive all-white space vessel. Gazing at the simulated starry universe outside while being audibly transported to a realistic moon setting, one could only imagine the thrills and threats associated with space travel and lunar discovery – a realm in which every move must be calculated with absolute precision. The Omega Speedmaster Professional Chronograph has been NASA’s reliable instrument of choice since its earliest foray into space. It was the first watch to be worn on the moon and during the remaining five lunar landings, which is why it has been nicknamed ‘The Moonwatch’. The iconic watch was the centre of attention at the event in Houston, where new Speedmaster watches – including the Apollo 13 Silver Snoopy Award and a new Speedmaster ’57 – were unveiled. The real
return to Earth. The Speedmaster might have been the first watch to survive a trip to the moon and back, but one cannot ignore the incomparable role that it played in turning around the ill fate of the moon-bound Apollo 13 in April 1970. One of the two oxygen tanks on the Service Module had exploded, causing the second tank to fail as well. The crew, comprising Commander James Lovell, used the ever-so-reliable Speedmaster to precisely time short engine burns that would eventually realign the spacecraft for entry into the Earth’s atmosphere. The retired captain, now 87, was present at the gala dinner and threw light on the watch’s role as a lifesaving device. Omega President Stephan Urquhart added: “For Omega, it was an unbelievable story. It could have been a disaster but turned out fantastic, and today, it’s an incredible part of our heritage.” Interestingly, the Omega Speedmaster had been worn on a number of NASA’s manned space missions, albeit unofficially, long before man set foot on the moon in 1969. In fact, the watch had not even been designed intentionally for space exploration. It was introduced to the world as a sport and
chronograph that catered to the precisionrelated requirements of pilots and sportsmen. The relationship between Omega and NASA dates back to 1962, when a group of astronauts – including Walter Schirra and Leroy Gordon Cooper – purchased Speedmasters for personal use. Schirra wore his during the Mercury-Atlas 8 (Sigma 7) mission in 1962, making it the first Speedmaster to unofficially accompany a space mission. The timepiece not only served its purpose, but also survived in environs well beyond the boundaries of Earth. It’s no wonder that in 1964, following the end of Project Mercury, many astronauts had requested to be issued with a watch for use during training and flight. Omega was among the four companies that responded to NASA engineer James Ragan’s request for quotations on wrist chronographs. The storied watch brand, with a history that dates back to 1848, passed some of the most arduous rounds of tests aimed at determining performance reliability under the demanding conditions of space flight. Of the three Omega watches put to the test, only one survived, proving that it was inarguably built
cause for celebration, however, was the 45th anniversary of the Apollo 13 mission’s safe
racing chronograph in 1957, building on the Omega 28.9, the brand’s first small wrist
to withstand all forms of destruction. NASA declared the Speedmaster “Flight Qualified
68
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
69
PHILANTHROPY
O F S PA C E A N D T I M E
for all Manned Space Missions” in 1965 after the watch was subjected to a range of
Speedmaster Professional worn on all of its missions. As the world celebrated the
If the three former NASA astronauts – Lovell, Stafford and Cernan – represented the
unearthly temperatures, pressures, humidity levels and environments – and so began Omega’s history with space exploration. The newly certified Speedmaster made its first official journey into space with Project Gemini, a series of ten manned flights between 1965 and 1966. The project’s aim was to develop techniques for advanced space travel, particularly those that would be adopted for the ambitious Project Apollo, which was to follow. In March 1965, Gemini 3 became the first crewed flight of this project, and would go on to become the first orbital manoeuvre made by any manned spacecraft. Its two-man crew comprised command pilot Virgil I. Grissom and pilot John Young, each of whom wore a Speedmaster. A few months later, during the Gemini IV mission in June 1965, Edward H. White would become the first American to conduct a spacewalk. Tethered to the spacecraft for roughly 23 minutes, White wore a Speedmaster during this notable accomplishment, making it the first wristwatch to be worn outside of a spacesuit in space.
incredibly historic Apollo 11 lunar landing on July 21, 1969, Omega was also being lauded for its role in this pioneering moment. The Speedmaster had become the first watch to be worn on the moon. Intriguingly, Neil Armstrong, the first human to set foot on the moon, left his Speedmaster in the lunar module to serve as a backup timer in place of the module’s malfunctioning electric timer – such was the level of trust that the astronaut had in the timepiece. Buzz Aldrin, who followed the mission commander, stepped onto the lunar surface 15 minutes later with an Omega Speedmaster strapped to his wrist. Two months prior to this extraordinary moment, the Apollo 10 mission tested all the components and equipment during a moon orbital, without actually landing. The three-man crew, including General Thomas Stafford and Eugene Cernan, led the mission that was akin to a dress rehearsal for the actual moon landing. Astronaut Cernan, also the commander of Apollo 17 – the final Apollo lunar mission – was the 11th and last man to walk on the moon. Both Stafford and Cernan
agency’s monumental achievements in space exploration, it was actor George Clooney’s presence that added a dash of flair to the gala. Clooney, who is a brand ambassador for Omega, was just eight years old at the time of the first lunar landing. Sharing the stage with the three courageous astronauts, he reminisced about watching the landmark achievement and other missions as a child. “This was a time for us in our country when we needed these people to dream. You gentlemen are an inspiration to all of us here and I have to tell you what an honour it is to be standing up here with you all,” he said, expressing his appreciation. It was 45 years ago, after the aborted Apollo 13 returned to Earth, that Omega was lauded with the Silver Snoopy Award, an award given by astronauts in recognition of outstanding achievements related to mission success and flight safety. Lovell reminded the audience at the event that the catastrophic mission actually brought people together, promoting a sense of togetherness. The unbreakable bond between NASA and Omega
Dedicated to President John F. Kennedy, NASA’s Apollo Program saw the Omega
were among the special guests at Omega’s celebratory event.
was very much alive that evening. It had, in fact, come full circle.
70
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
71
OBSESSION
MAN OF THE HOUR
MAN OF THE HOUR Rémy Julia, regional watch specialist at Christie’s Dubai, shares his insights on Middle Eastern watch collectors, the region’s brand preferences, and the auction scene in Dubai during a candid interview with Signé
Rémy Julia worked with some of the world’s finest timepieces long before he was appointed as the watch specialist for Christie’s Dubai in the summer of 2014. He had been a part of the Richemont Group – working at Vacheron Constantin to be exact – since 2009. Now in his new role, the multi-lingual and well-travelled Julia has been bringing his intimate knowledge of watches to the famed auction house’s Middle Eastern clients. Besides advising them on the purchase and consignment from Christie’s auctions around the world, he also brings Christie’s Private Sales, its bespoke design and search service, to the region. Were you always passionate about watches? I have always had a passion for collecting different things, but watches were never one of them before joining the industry. This passion came from work and began when I was working on the commercial strategy of Vacheron Constantin in India and the Middle East. Now that I’m at Christie’s, it’s a mix of both, which is not only a professional, commercial or strategic thing, but because I have developed a passion for watches as a collector over the years. Why switch from a watch company to an auction house? It was a good journey to learn the ins and outs of a brand. The strategy of a huge brand like Vacheron Constantin, or for that matter any brand in the Richemont Group portfolio, is that you are exposed to different brands and you continuously keep an eye on the competition. As for Christie’s, I like the human element of the business at an auction house. You spend time with people to understand what they want and further their passion for watches. I’ve always enjoyed the advising part.
72
How do you go about forming a collection? Developing a collection is not easy; it is time consuming. There are clients who want to start a collection from scratch and there are others who are long-time collectors. It’s interesting when you start working with a client during the early stage as the process is linked to either emotions, technicalities or investments. With their limited budget, you help them shape a collection, which is not similar to another collection. Today, a new collector looks at provenance, better condition and rarity in terms of dials. It’s different from what a collector of 10 years would look for. Some of our clients request to uplift their watch collection. When you get to a collection of 100 or 200 watches and your market knowledge has evolved, you realise that you are aspiring to a collection that reflects you today and tomorrow rather than yesterday. Also, if you start a collection when you are 30 years old, most of the watches do not fit your identity by the time you reach 50. The most difficult part is that these people are very demanding with their requests to acquire their dream pieces, their holy grails, so to speak.
Patek Philippe Platinum limited edition automatic world time wristwatch with green dial
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
How do you distinguish between a watch collection for investment purposes versus passion? Buying a watch for passion depends on personal tastes that relate to the design of the hands, case or dial. You need advice to secure your confidence even though it remains a personal purchase. Buying as an investment is a case study in itself – you make projections about the value of a piece in the future based on various factors. What are some of the new brands getting attention today? Richard Mille is getting a lot of attention thanks to its strong media campaign, which is linked to key celebrities. We will be featuring
one of Rafael Nadal’s Richard Mille watches at the next Christie’s auction. How has the watch auction industry changed in the past 10 years? People want more exclusivity while the manufacturer wants more production, so this is a big clash. You have to pay the price when you want an exclusive product which – according to me – is a 20-, 50- or 100-piece edition. People also have so much more knowledge because of the internet. What makes Christie’s a unique auction house? The knowledgeable teams behind every department at Christie’s impart attention to detail to its auctions, private sales and online watch sales. We talk to new and old collectors and have set world records year after year. From the human perspective, we have a 24-hour person who can attend to your requests on every continent. If you place a request from Dubai, it is spread all over the world and you receive a response the next morning.
Rémy Julia, Regional watch specialist at Christie’s Dubai
What is your opinion on Dubai’s watch auction scene? Although Dubai is a young market in terms of auctions, it is growing due to media exposure and the city’s energy and dynamism. At Christie’s, we have known Dubai’s traditional, important collectors – the handful of people who have serious collections which span for years on end. You also have the young collectors, constituted by expats and young people from the city. Which brands are people opting for in the Like the rest of the world, Patek Philippe, Rolex and Omega lead the market in the Middle East, too. There is a duality in the Dubai market. On one hand, there’s a clear request for technical and super complicated watches. On the other, the market has a keen sensibility for design and materials like platinum and steel, which are the most sought-after on the watch-case.
I’d like to add that women are increasingly attending auctions in Dubai, so we always have watches for them in the city. They often look for discontinued models. There’s a growing community of ladies that understands timepieces and wants to wear men’s watches.
In terms of watch collectors, how different is the Middle Eastern clientele compared to the rest of the world? Such a collector would be more sensitive to what is a part of the Middle East? Middle East, in terms of heritage. I’m talking about all the special dials that were given as protocol pieces to the region, which is driven by emotion in terms of CHRISTIE’S NEXT AUCTIONS purchase. Clients look at emotion, design and 20th of October : For Fine technicalities before investing because they Modern & Contemporary Art. 21st October : For Important Watches. like wearing their watches. They wear them carefully to minimise the impact of use, unlike Venue : The Godolphin Ballroom at the Jumeirah Emirates Towers Hotel
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
collectors across the world who generally store them in safes.
73
OBSESSION
D R I V I N G T H E S I LV E R S C R E E N
DRIVING THE SILVER SCREEN Embodying different emotions showcased on the silver screen, the Rolls Royce ‘Inspired by Film’ celebrates film as a timeless source of inspiration for many. Sit back and watch as Signé lifts the curtains to a virtual film on the model, its striking features and exclusivity
74
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
The world of cinema, since time immemorial, has been inspiring, influencing and impacting our lives. Making us believe in the reel life stories, we have begun to carry some of their portrayals in our real life. From fashion trends being inspired by the film, to interiors
in timeless classics such as Goldfinger (1964), The Yellow Rolls Royce and more, the Wraith ‘Inspired by Film’ celebrates the brand’s long heritage in films. Standing by the theme of ‘And the World Stood Still’. The Wraith is a true hero car with its thought provoking, innovative
and theme parks, the latest addition to the array is the world’s strongest Rolls Royce – The Wraith. Rolls Royce has revealed three versions of the ‘Inspired by’ series, which are inspired by three of the most apparent industries – Film, Fashion and Music. Where all of these are manifestations of unmatched classiness, the Wraith ‘Inspired by Film’ edition has become the talk of the town for integrating and representing some of the most essential characteristics of cinema.
and bespoke touches gracefully hinting at the (film) noir. Life imitates art as the silver screen is reflected through a unique two-tone Silver and Jubilee Silver paint scheme, whilst a solid-silver hand-cast Spirit of Ecstasy plays the femme fatale to the leading man, as he follows in her wake on an unexpected adventure every time he takes the wheel. On opening the doors into discovering the hero’s interior life, the spectator witnesses a more colourful side with different shades to its character, better than what the exterior would suggest. Furthermore,
The pinnacle of automotive luxury, Rolls Royce, has been an integral part of films since the dawn of filmmaking. Having featured
exuding confidence and power like a modern super hero’s attire is the Anthracite leather interior accented with Casden Tan. Whereas a pin sharp aluminium band shooting through the Maccassar Ebony open pore panelling suggests it’s steely character. Performance complements the drama of exterior styling as a shorter wheelbase, wider rear track and 624 bhp/465 kW derived from the twin turbo V12 and a 0-60mph of 4.4 seconds (0-100kph, 4.6 seconds) give expression to the car’s dynamic looks. The swept lines of the fastback body of Wraith, a style whose origins can be found in the 1930s era of film noir, most clearly signal its purposeful character. Additionally the car has a bespoke audio system and three active cruise control systems. There is also a bespoke clock on the exterior to indicate the passage of time, further emphasizing the noir inspiration. Moreover there is a convenient door pocket lighting and the rooftop has a galaxy lighting system wherein at night, you will get the feel of sitting under the sky, gazing at the stars. The launch film, ‘And the World Stood Still’, introduced Wraith as the most powerful and technologically advanced Rolls Royce in history. Filmed at a secret location near Barcelona, the shoot included an innovative ‘Timeslice’ (frozen time) sequence created using 100 SLR cameras; the longest purpose-built camera rig in Europe; an awardwinning film director; 36 computers; 1.5km of cables and one prototype Rolls Royce Wraith. Interestingly, the limited edition also celebrates the launch film’s acceptance into the BFI (British Film Institute) National Archive, the world’s most significant collection of film and TV. The Wraith’s other two limited editions – ‘Inspired by Fashion’ and ‘Inspired by Music’ take the legacy of integrating inspirations to greater heights. ‘Inspired by Fashion’s look is all about strong contrasts, ultraluxe fabrics and couture-inspired detailing. With a chic, distinctive and effortless style, Inspired by Fashion’s contemporary styling has a timeless appeal. On the other hand, the ultimate venue for the most intimate performance is Wraith ‘Inspired by Music’, which brings together the finest materials and a bespoke sound system to deliver an unrivalled acoustic performance. Naturally refined, and engineered for the definitive sensory in-car audio experience – it’s as if your favorite artist was performing in front of you.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
75
OBSESSION
76
T H E I TA L I A N J O B
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
THE ITALIAN JOB
Creative, elegant, graceful and many more adjectives cannot even proximately describe the rich heritage of Italy. La Villa Dubai is one haven wherein sophistication meets Italian culture, as the Italians feel it Italian craftsmanship seems to have taken every creative sector by a storm. You will, however, be surprised to know that what is seen is not even close to what the reality is. The extent of profound detailing that entails in the making of a truly bespoke Italian masterpiece can only be explained and exhibited by an Italian himself. Located in the porch allies of Jumeirah, La Villa Dubai is the manifested dream of five visionary friends who met each other randomly, sharing the same passion – to let others experience the excellence of Italian heritage in a home of elegance. Mr. Stefano Guiliani, CEO of La Villa Dubai, walks us through their impeccable journey, from conception to launch and beyond. It might take years for people to conceptualize an idea but with La Villa, it seemed like the universe had its development planned much before others could think of it. Envisaging the reality three years ago, five Italians met each other and decided to give their passionate ideas, a shape. Stefano, being one of those recalls how he was brought up in Italy but when he travelled abroad, he found people associating Italy with just a bunch of stereotypes and totally unaware of the cultural heritage behind it. In fact the ‘Made in Italy’ taken abroad by popular luxury brands or smaller businesses established all over the world, such as restaurants or tailors, are rarely loyal to the Italian values and traditions, meaning that their production is externalized and standardized, or there is no Italian staff and consequent know-how performing there. Therefore the perceived quality of the ‘Made in Italy’ results much lower than the actual one. This is why La Villa took birth. Stefano affirms, “…To me, La Villa is a piece of Italy born out of the country’s landmarks, where discerning ladies and gentlemen can experience the excellence of Italian heritage in the home of elegance.” To them, ‘Made in Italy’ is not only a phrase but it holds much more emotional and prestigious value. Providing a bespoke luxury lifestyle is what it means to them. With every market having a different stage of
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
77
OBSESSION
T H E I TA L I A N J O B
Mr. Stefano Guiliani, CEO of La Villa Dubai
consciousness, we are slowly witnessing a shift from a brand-oriented crowd, towards a self-brand society. Today, individuals express their uniqueness, no longer conveying a message through the association with a brand representing a system of values. They are setting their
Offering bespoke services for both men and women requires a very competitive renowned team of professionals. Interestingly, much importance has been given on bringing the finest of Italian craftsmen on board to deliver their exclusive services. Recollecting incidents from his
own system of values and delivering it thanks to customized pieces designed and realized just for them. According to Stefano, La Villa is all about delivering a service that can enhance the consciousness of the individual. From a senior position in an American MNC to La Villa, Stefano remembers, “Everything was going great for me but I had sheltered this desire for a long time. Three years ago I felt I was at the right time and the right place to do it, so I did it. Dubai is an international hub so I felt I could share my dream with those who dreamt like me”. Taking this leap of faith wouldn’t have been easy but now it seems to be truly worth it. As we entered the villa and took a seat in a luscious lounge, furnished to the core, we could feel their strong passion that lies behind every single piece occupying the room. Stefano mentions how in December 2014, this villa looked nothing like what it looks now. He had approached a few developers asking them to develop the property but each gave them a time-line of 10-15 months. Not convinced with the time-line, his team took the reins in their hands, partnering with different contractors, having the villa completely ready in four months only. Taking a look at the villa, the front door opens to the ground floor dedicated to male tailoring, business meetings and entertainment. The secluded first floor hosts the ladies fashion studio, the bride room and the jewelry and accessories exhibition area. The entire villa is a conceptual exercise where contemporary living fuses perfectly with centuries of Italian heritage. Pieces from the Italian artistic tradition create a harmonious interior design concept. The first of its
past, Stefano deliberates on how he would spend at least a week in each brand’s production facility that they cater to, to only ascertain their quality consciousness and superior techniques. He mentions how everything, right down to the couch we were sitting on to the table in between us, is entirely handmade. To ensure their clients’ trust, La Villa makes a film of the process of tailoring one’s attire so that no doubts remain in terms of quality. After this, he carries out a verification of company assets being a market strategist himself. However, most important, Stefano conducts the aura check. La Villa has some core values and that the team cannot compromise on. Only a brand or a craftsman who equally shares a system of ethics, and is passionate about creating a world of Italian luxury outside Italy makes it to the board of members. Two of their tailors, for example, where one hails from a traditional Italian background and the other is European, offer the best of the bespoke services of both worlds. These tailors have an experience of working for the most high profile brands in the market, where they design their leading products. Hence, La Villa’s average product quality matches only the best of the quality of other brands. Well planned and exceptionally well executed, La Villa ensures on delivering an experience, not just a service. When we fell short of words admiring the concept, our eyes fell upon the exclusive interiors, which left us spell bound. For instance, the same company that constructed the flooring for some of the most well known palaces constructed their marble tiles. The mosaic wall hangings and carpets have carefully been done to reflect a class of
kind in the world, Stefano can’t seem to compare it even minutely to anything else.
articulation. With 16 layers of glass within only a 1mm thick sheet, forming a flexible sheet of mosaic tessellates that can be moulded to
78
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
cover a round or flat surface. Even the sound systems for instance have been sourced specially from Singapore, gold studded with diamonds, producing a sound that has the ability to take one into a state of trance. Having described the villa in detail, Stefano claims, “…We don’t sell. We serve! Our mission is to provide you with what you need, exactly how you need and when you need, exceeding your expectations in every possible way”. Telling us about one of his clients wanting a bespoke wedding dress, when called in for a design approval, as she entered the floor, she was given a book to read. Surprisingly, the book opened to
to the masterpiece. Following that, were sketches of the dress from the designer to pick which look she liked. Going to the deepest root of ensuring client satisfaction, Stefano says, “When the client enters, he is welcomed by a butler and then escorted to the respective room. There he interacts with the designer and the lifestyle manager who take a note of what he has in mind. We interact with our client and aim to transfer the image they have in mind to reality, with a soul”. As unique as it sounds, Stefano wants to expand this concept further into the rest of the world. He wants to bring the culture of true Italy outside Italy. As
a letter from the perspective of the dress, speaking about who created her and what all are her specifications, thereby giving a personality
for Dubai, La Villa will be the only one of its kind, continuing to craft manifestations of elegance and pride.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
79
OBSESSION
THE TIME MACHINE
THE
TIME MACHINE From the shape of its dial to its skeleton and its stylish strap, each element of a Jaeger-LeCoultre timepiece communicates a nature. Carefully designed to suit individuals with various types of personalities, their watches reveal much more than just time. Here’s Signé’s guide presenting a selection of watches that respectively exhibit the wearer’s inherent qualities P H O T O G R A P H E R : V I S A K A VA R D H A N L O C AT I O N : L A V I L L A D U B A I
80
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
The Player Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso A Jaeger-LeCoultre patron is a man of fine tastes. Serving the sporty passions of such distinguished individuals, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was introduced. Born in 1931, in a dusty vortex and to the accompaniment of horses’ hooves hammering, was an idea to launch a timepiece with a dial that could protect itself from all shocks. Specially designed for the Polo players, the watch additionally offers a personalized engraved background, thereby making your choice all the more exclusive
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
81
OBSESSION
THE TIME MACHINE
The Intellectual Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Grand Feu This timepiece is driven by an ultra-flat caliber Jaeger-LeCoultre 849, a mechanical movement with manual winding. It is manufactured, assembled and decorated by hand. Meant for those who think beyond imaginations, the timepiece’s white gold dial is an expression of the Grand Feu enamel, a traditional experience that Jaeger-LeCoultre has always cultivated
82
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
The Gentleman Jaeger-LeCoultre Ultra Thin Tourbillon This manufacture-made caliber and its ultra-light grade 5 titanium carriage stems from decades of chronometric and technical research and development. With its pink gold case featuring fine, taut lines radiating an unostentatious aura of elegance, this one is a perfect fit for one who likes to walk the talk with others around
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
83
OBSESSION
84
THE TIME MACHINE
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
The Gamer Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Sphérotourbillon Stemming from almost 180 years of history and invention, the Duomètre Sphérotourbillon is equipped with an unprecedented multi-axis tourbillon. The revolutionary `Dual-Wing` concept featured in Calibre 382 once again paves the way for an original function and makes this exceptional model the first tourbillon watch that is precisely adjustable thanks to the small seconds flyback system. The timepiece is, hence, most suitable to an individual who is willing to take risks and who has the courage to win
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
85
OBSESSION
THE TIME MACHINE
The Traveller Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Unique Travel Time The Duomètre is the first watch to combine user-friendly access to the world’s time zones with flexible settings of the time in the destination zone to the nearest minute. This timepiece capitalises on the “Dual Wing” concept, thus avoiding any loss of precision. With a globe at 6 o’clock showing the time zones of the planet with a subtle day/night indicator, this timepiece is a perfect fit for someone whose journey knows no limits
86
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
The Adventurer Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme lab 2 Specially designed for the most extreme environments, this watch is equipped with a completely new mechanical chronograph movement. Combining maximum ergonomics with unmatched precision and reliability, this timepiece is an ideal instrument for those who wish to explore the extreme
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
87
OBSESSION
THE TIME MACHINE
The Vintage Fashionista Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Vintage Cermet The Deep Sea Chronograph Vintage Cermet makes the term ‘stylish’ look underated. Enhancing the overall style appeal of a vintage fashionista, this watch depicts a world of class
88
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
The Elegant Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Date This classically pure case houses exceptional performances. The new ceramic ball bearings of the automatic mechanism and the variable inertia balance further enhance the reliability of its automatic movement. Carefully crafted to suit your needs, this timepiece exhibits an unsurpassed level of elegance
Jaeger-LeCoultre stores are located at The Dubai Mall, Etihad Towers and The Marina Mall, Abu Dhabi
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
89
OBSESSION
DAWN OF SPLENDOR
DAWN OF SPLENDOR As the last quarter of the year approaches us, we at Signé Society brought together people from different walks of life, with one similarity - their classic tastes - in an event to welcome the new season gracefully. With some scrumptous delicacies accompanying profound conversations, the evening was filled with memorable moments LO CAT I O N : H E D R I CKS BAR , F O UR S E AS O N S R ES O RTS
90
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
91
OBSESSION
92
DAWN OF SPLENDOR
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
SIGNÉ
EDITION 15
93
H E R I TA G E
A DRIVE THROUGH TIME
A DRIVE THROUGH TIME
Bentley is a name that single handedly defines luxury, performance, individuality, technology, and a lifestyle that many aspire to live. Signé drives back in time, delving into the spectacular history of the British luxury automaker
Once upon a time, in the late 1800s, there was an engineering enthusiast who despised the cars of that era. He considered them dangerous, unsophisticated and excessively noisy. Instead of, however, reforming the existing trends in the industry, he took up the task of designing the car of his dreams, a manifestation of his own extraordinarily high expectations as a driver. The gentleman was none other than W.O. Bentley, who founded what is today the epitome of luxury – Bentley. Formally established in October 1919, the first production of Bentley left its showroom with pride in September 1921 to be delivered to its owner, Noel Van Raalte. What is considered one of the most expensive cars, back then only cost him £1,050. From that point on, Bentley Motors has changed its direction but maintained its quality and legacy throughout. The definitive British luxury car company continues to craft some of the world’s most desirable grand tourers. Located in Crewe, England, Bentley is constantly guided by the beliefs, actions and ambitions of W.O. Bentley himself. We revisit some of the most significant shores crossed during its journey towards excellence in luxury and performance.
94
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
1920 1929 Thanks to Bentley, the 1920s witnessed some of the most distinctive automobiles of the era. Various speed and endurance records were successfully set at Indianapolis, Isle of Man and Brooklands, not forgetting the legendary achievements of the Bentley Boys. Attaining victories at 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1924, 1927, 1928, 1929 and 1930, Bentley’s racing domination echoed around the motoring world.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
95
H E R I TA G E
A DRIVE THROUGH TIME
1930 1939 Even though Bentley was breaking racing records and acquiring public acclaim, the brand was bent over by financial crisis during the beginning of this period. Finally, Rolls-Royce came to its rescue and stepped in to buy Bentley Motors in 1931. Derby was the new production centre, where a new 3.5 litre Silent Sports Car was built. The brand took a new turn by blending the best attributes of both brands – agility with luxury, power with silence.
1950 1959 During this period, Bentley transformed solid cars into luxury, high performance grand tourers. The breath-taking Bentley R-Type Continental made its debut in this decade. It was a Mulliner-bodied coupé with a top speed of just less than 120mph, making it the fastest four-seater car in the world. This model earned a reputation as the ultimate in highspeed luxury. It was, however, the last Bentley to be built with no other competitive Rolls-Royce model for 30 years.
96
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
1960 1969 Bringing incessant development into the Bentley family, 1965 observed the launch of the Bentley T-Series. Exhibiting for the first time in Paris, the car was known for being gracious in its design, smooth in its performance, and a veritable revolution in the sporting heritage by Bentley enthusiasts. It was renamed in 1971 to the Bentley Corniche and the same followed in 1984 where it become the Continental, which continues to date.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
97
H E R I TA G E
A DRIVE THROUGH TIME
1970 1979 Marking a momentous decade in the history of Bentley Motors, founder W.O. Bentley passed away in 1971, much to everyone’s surprise. The tough years that followed witnessed more association with Rolls-Royce and the coach building partner Mulliner, leaving an incredible stamp of refined luxury in Bentley’s DNA. During this era, the famous V8 engine was also re-engineered to increase its capacity to 6.75 litres. It remains at the same size today.
98
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
1990 1999 After completing 67 years of alliance, it was announced that Bentley and Rolls-Royce would part ways once and for all. Adding resources, new technologies and even greater impetus to the momentum of the Bentley renaissance was its acquisition by the Volkswagen Group in 1998. This further substantiated Bentley’s intention to maintain a thoroughly British bloodline. The previously asymmetrical logo – having been straightened for a time under Rolls-Royce ownership – was restored in 1990 and has been revised continuously to ensure a current feel to the brand’s identity.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
99
H E R I TA G E
A DRIVE THROUGH TIME
2000 2009 Introducing a four-door variant of the Bentley Continental GT in 2005, Bentley launched the Flying Spur. Undoubtedly one of Bentley’s most significant models, the Flying Spur articulates a clear expression of advanced performance and unrivalled luxury. To this day, the Flying Spur is considered to be the world’s best luxury sedan. With its decadent look and contemporary seating arrangement, the car reformulated what Bentley took pride in delivering previously – sophisticated luxury.
100
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
2010 2015 The Bentley Bentayga – the world’s most luxurious SUV – will be unveiled this year, adding another feather of glory to the company’s crown. Marking a significant milestone in Bentley’s history, this will be its first SUV and most advanced model. All eyes will be on the Bentley Bentayga as it storms the SUV category and redefines exclusivity as we know it.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
101
L A D O L C E V I TA
TITLE
TIN-DUSTRIAL CHIC The award-winning Indigo Pearl resort in Phuket takes luxury to new heights with stunning suites, Coqoon spa and innovative restaurants. Its industrial-inclined decor, inspired by the island’s tin mining past, breathes new life into the concept of hotel design
Beverly Pereira A rare pearl in Phuket’s hospitality industry, the Indigo Pearl resort is located on the unspoilt Nai Yang Beach and epitomises the height of luxury. It is set against a backdrop of dense rainforests abundant in rare wildlife and within close proximity to a smattering of pristine islands. An industrial chic theme runs throughout the resort’s design, evokingimages of a bygone era. Fusing historic detail
The hotel stands on the same site that once housed the longrunning and hugely successful Pearl Hotel and, later, the Pearl Village Resort. The Indigo Pearl resort is run by the Na-Ranong family,who also owned and operated the Pearl Hotel for over two decades and whose ancestors worked in the tin mining industry. Soon after tin was discovered in the Kathu district of central Phuket many millennia ago,
andtraditional Thai elements with a contemporary touch, the hotel is reminiscent of Phuket’s once booming tin mining industry.
the island became a hub of tin trade. In fact, the value of tin was so great that it was considered a form of currency until as late as 1932.
102
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
For generations, the family of Wichit Na-Ranong, owner and Managing Director of IndigoPearl, had been involved in tin mining in and around Thailand. It’s no wonder that the Na-Ranong family looked to the island’s rich mining heritage for inspiration when it came to the resort’s look and feel. Tin mining in Phuket might have ceased to exist due to the low global pricing of the metal, but one cannot dismiss the role it played in the island’s past. Wichit, along with his daughter Prakaikaew Na-Ranong – the resort’s Deputy Managing Director – were the driving force behind reinforcing the link between the IndigoPearl and the island’s tin mining history. The overall idea behind the hotel was conceptualised by the family under the direction of the highly acclaimed architect and interior designer Bill Bensley. Bensley, founder and owner of the renowned Bensley Design Studios, is well known for his holistic approach of integrating structures with nature while embracing local art forms. He worked closely with Prakaikaew who explains,“We wanted the overall
They will delight in the smallest details, from the reclaimed building materials through to locally-crafted furnishings, as well as grounds that reflect a modernist transformation of a mature plantation, accented by contemporary and found industrial art.” Design-conscious and luxury travellers are sure to revel in the resort’s cutting-edge aesthetics. Once you set foot into the hotel, you cannot help but be instantly transported to earlier times when Phuket was once enjoying the glory of its booming tin mining industry. Naturally, tin and other reclaimed building materials have been generously incorporated across much of the resort’s interior. In the hotel lobby sits an old generator refurnished to serve as a riveting installation. Bensley collaborated with John Underwood, a native Australian and Phuket resident artist, to create unique furnishings and pieces of art that can be spotted across the hotel. Take, for instance, Tongkah Tin Syndicate, Indigo Pearl’s sports bar that serves a selection of fine whiskies from around the world. The bar boasts a post-modern
feeling to reflect Phuket’s heritage as a former tin mining centre while offering a distinctive atmosphere that will intrigue urban travellers.
ambience, with collectibles from the Na-Ranong family mines adding further character to the space.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
103
L A D O L C E V I TA
104
TIN-DUSTRIAL CHIC
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
Nestled in the tropical environs of the resort, accommodation at Indigo Pearl comes in the form of exquisitely designed suites, Pool Pavilions and Private Pool Villas, all of which exude a sense of luxury and warmth through the tiniest of detail
Nestled in the tropical environs of the resort, accommodation at Indigo Pearl comes in the form of exquisitely designed suites, Pool Pavilions and Private Pool Villas, all of which exude a sense of luxury and warmth through the tiniest of details. The Bensley Suite, named after theresort’s renowned designer, represents the height of luxury with unique art pieces and a private pool, while the D-BUK Suite is a
resort’s bold design, Coqoon features six luxurious treatment rooms against the backdrop of lush rainforest and tropical gardens. The Nest spa suite is suspended mid-air and accessible via a flyingbridge, making it a must-try for spa and nature enthusiasts alike. The 330-metre Coqoon Spa Suite, with its private pool, rain shower, steam room, sauna and Vichy shower, is yet another haven of serenity.
private haven of elegance that offers the perfect family accommodation in an idyllic setting. Here, subtle touches of industrial artistry can be spotted in the use of rich woods and bold colours that complement natural lighting. One might find it difficult to leave the Coqoon Suite, courtesy of its private lap pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, Vichy shower and sun loungers. Having said that, it’s really the Pearl Shell Suites that offer an experience unlike any other. Each suite makes an eclectic design statement, which is brought to life with original artwork, striking
Dining options at Indigo Pearl are just as tempting and plentiful – even the resort’s restaurants are housed in some of the most creatively designed venues. Floating on a lagoon, Black Ginger serves Thai delicacies, tender grilled cuts and fresh seafood. The restaurant is an architectural marvel in itself. The soft, blue-lit decor against the dark entrance guides diners to a wooden porch, from where they wait for a floating platform to pull them across a moat using an old-world pulley system. The menu also comprises a selection of rare malts and wines from across the world.
personality and unmatchable amenities. Andy Warhol-esque paintings adorn the walls of the open-plan yet intimate one-bedroom Black Tie Suite. It comes with an in-room spa treatment area and an expansive outdoor lounge space that overlooks Indigo Pearl’s lush green expanses and pools. Simply put, it could very well be the setting for a gentlemen’s club, complete with raw hides and luxe fabrics. Then, there’s the Tuxedo Suite, which has splashes of floral scarlet amid black and white stripes. Reminiscent of 1960s-style sophistication, the suite features a separate bedroom, living, dining and spa treatment area. An oversized daybed on the terrace overlooks the main pool surrounded by tropical greenery.Paying homage to the wandering sea dwellers believed to have been the first inhabitants of Thailand’s Andaman coastal regions is the Moken Suite.The result is a nautical-themed duplex complete with two bedrooms alongside a sunken terrace Jacuzzi, in-suite sauna and private walk-through art gallery. Each Private Pool Villa at Indigo Pearl features an exotic suite, exclusive his and hers fixtures, a grandiose dining and living area, and a state-of-the-art barbeque and bar. Other features include a private lap pool, Jacuzzi, sauna and al fresco shower. One can avail the butler service at each of these villas, which make for anideal place to entertain. Getting pampered with a relaxing massage in your own suite or villa is one thing – unwinding at the Coqoon Spa is quite another. With a decadent variety of traditional Thai therapies, massages, facial treatments, body wraps and scrubs to pick from, it’s easy to feel spoilt for choice. As you give in to the trained hands of the spa’s
Rivet & Rebar is the place to visit if you want to sample Executive Sous Chef Fabrizio Crocetta’s innovative Mediterranean-influenced cuisine in an artistic setting of plush leather upholstered chairs, unique tables and geometric metalwork. Meanwhile, Rebar’s lounge offers a spot to unwind with post-dinner drinks and lounge music. Breakfasts at Indigo Pearl are a lavish affair at Tin Mine, an al fresco pavilion surrounded by lush greenery and ponds. The all-day restaurant also offers Thai streetstyle dishes like southern-style coconut curry and wagyu Thai beef salad whipped up at live cooking stations. Underground Café, a sunlit cafe sheltered by tropical gardens, offers homemade ice creams, pastries and picnic items along with fresh sandwiches and light fare. If you do manage to step out of the luxurious confines of your suite or villa at Indigo Pearl, there are a host of activities to indulge in. The resort’s facilities include two adult-only infinity pools and a family pool. Cooking and yoga classes are yet another way to add an interesting element to your stay. While the children are kept busy at the resort’s Kids Club, you can embark on a tee off on the award-winning golf greens located a few minutes away from the resort. The decor and architecture of the Indigo Pearl is so immersive that you might want to take a piece of its striking design back home with you. It will do you good to visit Stockroom, the hotel’s home decor, fashion and accessories store. Custom-designed cutlery with tool handles, tunnel-inspired ceiling lamps and chandeliers, table accessories crafted from bolt fasteners, and placemats crafted of ‘Raw Tin’ bags can be perused and purchased here. Haute couture from
therapists, it’s not unusual to experience a sense of weightlessness as you are lulled into a deep state of relaxation. Not out of line with the
Zapata Atelier and pashminas with beaded mohair and sequins are also part of the draw.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
105
L A D O L C E V I TA
TROPICAL LUXURY
TROPICAL LUXURY A stay at Constance Le Prince Maurice and Constance Belle Mare Plage is a must if you’re looking for a truly exclusive experience in Mauritius. Situated on the island’s vibrant east coast, both properties offer luxurious getaways, complete with turquois green waters, sandy beachfronts, the height of tranquillity and gastronomy
You can be sure of enjoying a slice of paradise on an island located in the Indian Ocean when you stay at any of the Constance Hotels & Resorts properties. On the island of Mauritius, prized for its inviting coastlines ringed with white-sand beaches, crystal-clear water and beach-friendly weather, Constance Le Prince Maurice and Constance Belle Mare Plage offer guests an experience unlike any other. CONSTANCE LE PRINCE MAURICE: SHEER LUXURY ON AN ISLAND At Constance Le Prince Maurice, it’s not very difficult to instantly settle into a state of bliss. Part of the group’s Ultimate Hotels Collection, this
hideaway to be — from the stunning architecture and the privacy-ensured environment, to the luxurious setting and picturesque views. The hotel has 89 single-story suites and villas, each of which is luxurious in their own right. The suites and villas are elegantly decorated with a touch of Mauritian warmth. Warm spice tones coupled with the ecological thatch roofing make for a soothing welcome and an instant pick-me-up to put you into holiday mode. Some of the Junior suites and villas are built on stilts above a Barachoise, or a lush lagoon, abundant in exotic fish. From the balcony of these suites, incredible views of the sea in the evening sun are a given. Yet another option is the beachfront Junior suites and villas, with direct access to an unspoilt beach. Or, if you are on
luxury hotel is located on a lush peninsula within close proximity to a white sandy beach. It’s everything you’ve ever imagined an exclusive romantic
vacation with the family in tow, look no further than the spacious Family Suites for ultimate comfort.
106
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
107
L A D O L C E V I TA
TROPICAL LUXURY
Situated on the most private parcel of the hotel’s land, the aptly named Princely Villa happens to be one of the island’s most private. It’s a destination in itself that often finds a place even on the most discerning travel bucket lists. The villa can house a party of six, and comes with three terraces, each facing a different part of the ocean,
CONSTANCE BELLE MARE PLAGE: WHERE DREAMS COME TRUE Constance Belle Mare Plage, part of Constance’s Unique Resort Collection, is a white sandy beachfront property that offers experiences that make for the perfect holiday. Among the 256 thatched low-rise rooms are sea-facing
two Junior suites, and one villa with a patio perfect for sun bathing. What’s more is that the Princely villa has its own beach, two pools and a round-the-clock butler. U Spa by Constance is the place to go if you want to relax, rejuvenate, detox, deep cleanse or simply enjoy. Set in a serene corner of the hotel amid frangipani and tropical plants, the spa offers tailored experiences taken up a notch by the use of Sisley and Brice Nicham products. Yet another unmatchable experience can be had in the form of the hotel’s unique culinary offerings at the Archipel restaurant. Overlooking the pool and beach area, the restaurant offers Mauritian-influenced cuisine and a 15,000-bottle wine cellar. Le Beach Deck is perfect for a sumptuous lunch. While two 18-hole championship golf courses are just a ten-minute drive away from the hotel, other activities to make your stay that much more meaningful include swimming at the hotel’s infinity pool, tennis, windsurfing, diving, water skiing and kayaking. Should you be worried about keeping the kids occupied, there’s always the Constance Kids’ Club that offers a private children’s pool dining area and games room. The paradisiacal setting of Constance Le Prince Maurice plays a big role in making it the ultimate tropical holiday. But the hotel’s design also largely contributes in this regard. Designed by Mauritian architectural mastermind Jean Marc Eynaud and designer David Edwards, the hotel is a seamless blend of style and luxury. Whether it’s the strategically positioned warm lighting that harmonises with the environment, or the Feng Shui-inspired high beds that assist in the
Prestige rooms, Junior Suites, Deluxe suites and villas with private pools. The three-bedroom Presidential Villas is the most luxurious of the lot. But that’s not to say that you won’t have an indulgent as experience if you stay at any of the other forms of accommodation. For instance, every villa comes with a PlayStation and Wii in addition to other amenities. We love that the secluded Beach Pool villas are located just a few steps away from a cool, blue lagoon. Constance Belle Mare Plage is a beautiful balance of the Constance group’s signature chic ambience and the tropical environs of Mauritius. Blending traditional Mauritian design with contemporary design elements, the resort was designed by a number of acclaimed professionals that includes decorator Martin Branner, light designer Bo Steiber, landscaper Colin Okashimo and architect Jean-Marc Eynaud. Again, this resort offers a good number of experiences, from diving in the waters surrounding the resort and snorkelling in the offshore coral reef, to enjoying a few good rounds of golf at the two golf courses located nearby. You can put your feet up at U Spa by Constance while the young ones enjoy at the Constance Kids’ Club. Food and drinks are a lavish affair at Constance Belle Mare Plage, and with seven restaurants and five bars to choose from, you’ll be spoilt for choice. There’s La Spiaggia for Mediterranean cuisine, the Deer Hunter for Mauritian culinary offerings, and Blue Penny Café for a fine dining experience infused with a pinch of local cuisine with chef Frederic Goisset at its helm. Indigo Beach Bar, adjacent to the Indigo restaurant, is perfect to enjoy a drink or two in a relaxed environment.
circulation of Qi, the design of Constance Le Prince Maurice works to provide its guests the height of well-being.
The Swing, situated by one of the golf courses, is yet another great place to include a snack or a salad.
108
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
109
L A D O L C E V I TA
A R G E N T I N A , P L AT E D
ARGENTINA, PLATED Dining at a venue in which an elegant ambiance, exotic food and exceptional service set the mood for unwinding is the ideal timeout amidst the frenzy of city life. Brimming with Argentinian culture, Gaucho, is one such restaurant
The massive South American nation of Argentina has long been known for their scrumptious steak, ceviche and wine from their indigenous land. Adding a touch of Argentine culinary and cultural passion to Dubai is Gaucho, situated in DIFC, the city’s cosmopolitan financial district. The restaurant introduces the highest quality of Latin delicacies to the UAE, having previously expanded across the UK. As we enter Gaucho, its iconic décor catches our attention and adds a striking effect to the entire ambiance. The cowhide walls, which are integral to the Argentine culture, bring about a sense of belonging. Blended flawlessly with opulent black and white leather furniture, the mirror panels and crystal chandeliers serve as an extension to the inherited legacy. Meanwhile, the restaurant’s interior takes its patrons to another world, one in which each and every article speaks of a unique heritage and welcoming culture. Interestingly, the look follows the trademark style created by Conceptualise, a London-based design team that is headed by Patsy Godik and Grant White. The restaurant, in total, spreads across a dramatic doublevolume space that can fit about 100 plus guests on its private terrace alone. A glass staircase
dining areas, with eight-metre high floor-to-ceiling walls of multifaceted glass. The entire outlet gives the feel of timeless architecture with a contemporary touch. Gaucho offers a distinct menu specially designed by the renowned Executive Chef - Fernando Trocca. Offered on the award-winning menu are the finest of Argentine ceviches (‘the new sushi’), traditional empanadas and renowned steak cuts from the premium free-range Argentine Angus Beef. Considered the best in the world, the steak cuts are 100 percent grass-fed and cooked in the traditional Argentine way – cut to order, grilled and turned only once to seal the juices and enhance the taste. The rich flavours accompanying the impeccably cooked food give an everlasting taste, making one want to come back for more. To add to a visitor’s delight, the world famous Gaucho wine cellar boasts over 200 of Argentina’s finest wines. For those who prefer a more intimate setting, say for a corporate event or a family dinner, the restaurant’s private dining room provides an ideal setting. On the other hand, if you wish to enjoy its most exclusive dining experience, you can head to the Wine Room that seats eight and
links a floating bridge between the seemingly endless while marble bar and multi-level
110
allows for extensive grape tasting before making your selection.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
111
HAUTE SOCIÉTÉ
DESTINATION OF ELEGANCE FURNITURE STORE Introducing beautiful Parisian designs to Dubai is the recently opened Blanc D’ivoire Dubai, a furniture and home accessories store located on Al Wasl road. The French brand is all set to enrapture the Middle Eastern market, having pioneered the art of fine interiors in over 30 destinations worldwide. Blanc D’ivoire Dubai represents the definitive French lifestyle with collections inspired by charming antique pieces that have been rethought for a contemporary lifestyle. The outlet has three main sections – the living area, dining room and bedroom – showcasing products such as dinnerware, sofas and award-winning chandeliers. Ensuring each piece communicates a distinct story while creating a perfectly elegant home, the store takes creativity to another level. Their philosophy is simple and flawlessly executed – deliver premium quality homeware embedded with unique details and an impeccable finish.
112
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
MORE TO EXPLORE BOUTIQUE Developed by Chalhoub Group, the latest jewel to be added to the collection of stores at Yas Mall in Abu Dhabi is called Tryano. Opening this November, the 20,000 square-metres retail space will be a unique destination embracing a memorable and highly immersive in-store environment catering to the desires of the capital’s well-heeled. With concierge services, a spa for women, personal shopping and a decadent variety of fashion accessories, the concept store promises to raise the bar in terms of retail offerings. Keeping gourmands in mind, a new Parisian restaurant by the name of Patisserie des Reves will be housed within. Tryano’s interiors can thank the expertise of the internationally acclaimed design studio HMKM, so expect to see plenty of visual surprises, including display techniques making their debut in the UAE. Above all, most of the international fashion brands will sit alongside some of the region’s most exciting new designers, providing a truly unparalleled shopping experience.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
113
THE GREAT ESCAPE S PA The H Dubai is easily one of the city’s trendiest home-grown hotels, and harbouring the exquisite Mandara Spa only adds to its appeal. Here, every moment is transformed into a treasured memory. Situated on the third floor of the contemporary arabesque hotel, the spa menu features a multitude of offerings including a unique mixture of traditional Arabian and Asian Spa treatments – the perfect antidote to a long, sweltering summer. The anti-aging treatments, which are clinically proven to reduce wrinkles and increase the smoothness of your skin, are designed to provide you with an exceptional experience that is languidly paced and sublimely indulgent. Going an extra step ahead with the luxury of time, the spa’s signature Mandara massage is a unique blend of five different massage styles, ensuring that your mind, body and soul embark on a journey to complete revitalisation.
114
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
HAUTE SOCIÉTÉ
UNVEILING HERITAGE BOUTIQUE The world’s oldest Haute Horlogerie manufacturer - Vacheron Constantin - officially opened the doors to its flagship boutique at the Dubai Mall. Reflective of the brand’s elegance and intricate craftsmanship, the boutique has among its features a VIP room in addition to a private Watchmaker who offers his exclusive services and a splendid haute horlogerie experience. Interestingly, the boutique flaunts the same distinguished ambiance that is enjoyed by its other counterparts worldwide. The Harmony collection, having its first seven models unveiled on the brand’s 260th anniversary, was one of the main highlights of the refined boutique. These contemporary timepieces feature a design inspired by one of the brand’s first wristwatch chronographs introduced in 1928.
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15
115
HAUTE SOCIÉTÉ
A WALK INTO HEAVEN S PA Ayurveda – the science of healing with natural remedies - is an emblem of heritage India has been presenting to the world. Bringing this art to the cosmopolitan land of the Middle East is the Oberoi Spa and Wellness Centre. Situated in the Oberoi Dubai, the haven of peace comprises of seven therapy rooms, each offering exclusive private treatments and relaxation areas, an ensuite steam show and personal washroom. Setting up the mood for rejuvenation is the Zen-like ambiance, complemented by the marbles, oak wood and earthy tones used. In addition to other beauty treatments, the spa offers exotic body scrubs, floral baths and revitalizing beauty treatments. For those who like to further indulge in the India’s ancient art, can enjoy yoga sessions on the beautiful yoga deck located between the two towers of the hotel, offering breathtaking views of the city.
116
SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 15