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DECODING EMIRATI CUISINE
CHEF U WE’S ‘FL AVOURS OF DUBAI’ WINS AT THE 22ND GOUR MA ND AWARDS
THE JEWEL IN THE CROWN
PASTICCERIA COVA, A CELEBR ATED MILANESE CAFÉ SOON AT THE DUBAI MALL
A CENTURY OF TANK
CARTIER CELEBRATES THE 100TH ANNIVERSARY OF ONE OF ITS MOST ICONIC MODEL
THE PURSUIT
The Ferrari 488 GTB and Ferrari 488 Spider subtly blends classic lines with the latest performance technology.
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Classic Fusion Aerofusion Moonphase. King Gold case, an exclusive red gold alloy developed by Hublot. Dial in sapphire revealing the movement, displaying moon phases, calendar, day and month.
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FROM DESIGN TO FASHION Raf Simons belongs to a generation of designers who live for their craft.
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WANDERLUST SCENTS
A PASSION FOR TIME The founder of the Dubai Watch Club, Adel Al Rahmani tells us about his passion, Horology.
The Ralph Lauren Collection takes you on an olfactory journey around the world.
Savoir faire
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A RETREAT LIKE NO OTHER
MASCULINE SCENTS
The Vipp Shelter is a manufacturing marvel made to escape the urban chaos.
A curated selection of 8 iconic fragrances.
TIMELESS EXCELLENCE
Art & Design C
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AT HOME WITH GUCCI
From London to the Chinese Empire, Signé looks back at the splendid history of Bovet 1822.
Ralph Lauren presents its latest collection in an unconventional setting.
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Learn from the best jewelers, gemologist and watchmakers with Van Cleef & Arpels.
Signé presents Tawaf, a Geneva-based watch brand greatly inspired by the Middle East.
Minotti presents its latest collection, a blend of tradition and modernity.
THE SCHOOL OF RARE ARTS
ORIENT MEETS OCCIDENT
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FALL IN STYLE Jimmy Choo’s vision of 21st-century men’s fashion.
La Dolce Vita
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An exclusive look at Oppo’s collaboration with Lebanese designer Walid Atallah.
Signé visits the Hotel Café Royal and tells its tale.
THE STORY OF AN ICON
TECH MEETS COUTURE
Obsession
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SANCTUARY AT THE SHORE
Philanthropy
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Capture the true essence of tranquillity at The Shangri-La Hotel Qaryat Al Beri.
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THE PURSUIT
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WATCHMAKING FOR A CAUSE
The Ferrari 488 GTB & Ferrari 488 Spider subtly blends classic Ferrari lines with extreme performance.
THE JEWEL IN THE CROWN
Signé walks you through the hottest watches at this year’s Only Watch auction.
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SCULPTORS OF SKELETONS Philippe Belais tells us everything we need to know about his brand Claude Meylan.
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AQUATIC MASTERPIECE
A CENTURY OF TANK
Dubai’s new state-of the art aqua theatre is gearing up for its first show.
We look back at the glamorous history of Cartier’s Tank.
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From Milan to Dubai, meet Pasticceria Cova.
Flavours of Dubai by Chef Uwe Micheel wins at the 22nd Gourmand Awards.
RESTAURANTS Signé rounds-up some of Dubai’s latest food and beverages novelties.
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Hugh Jackman and the new TimeWalker Chronograph The new TimeWalker Chronograph is inspired by performance and the spirit of racing. montblanc.com/timewalker Crafted for New Heights.
SCHOLARS · FROM DESIGN TO FASHION
FROM DESIGN TO FASHION
An enlightened amateur of music, a contemporary art lover and a former fashion teacher, Raf Simons is one of the most revered designers of his generation. From industrial design to haute couture, we tell you everything you need to know about his career. Born in Neerpelt in 1968, Raf Simons is one of the most illustrious disciples of the “Belgian school” - which also includes Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten and Kris Van Assche, among others. He graduated in 1991 from the School Of Genk with a degree in industrial design; he began his career as a furniture designer and then worked for Walter Van Beirendonck in the showroom design department. But when the young architect attended a Martin Margiela fashion show, he realized he had finally found his vocation and immediately reoriented his career towards fashion to become a stylist and founded his own label. Inspired by modernity, youth and urban codes, Raf Simons developed a sleek, avantgarde and architectural style. He worked on his first collection while collaborating with other brands such as Ruffo Research. “My inspiration is endless; I can’t define it. It is a constant flow and evolution. In general, I’m taking it from everywhere. People get nervous when they walk with me as I’ll see something and suddenly have to text it to myself,” said Simons in an interview. However, in 2001, after five years dedicated to his creations, Raf Simons chose to put his career on hold to teach fashion at the University of Applied Arts in Vienna, Austria. In 2005, the Belgian stylist left teaching to create his first Raf by Raf Simons line.
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The same year, he was appointed man and woman creative director of Jil Sander, a minimal German brand. ‘’Jil is a niche brand. And I think it wouldn’t have been a challenge to take on another niche brand. It’s not only the style, it’s not only the aesthetic, but it’s also how it sits in the fashion world, how people look at it, and how people criticize it; how it’s communicating with so many different women,’’ explained the designer after his appointment. From 2008 to 2010, he collaborated with various brands, such as Fred Perry, Adidas, and Uniqlo, on one-time collections. In February 2012, Raf Simons left Jil Sander to take over the sulfurous John Galliano, head of the artistic direction of Dior’s haute couture, prêt-à-porter and women’s accessories collections. Raf Simons was the perfect opposite of his predecessor; he hated the weight of celebrity and was very shy. Heading Dior’s creative department, the designer updated the image of the French house: less pop, more solemn, while preserving the original essence of the brand. The most demonstrative example remains the Dior Bar bag, an homage to the iconic Christian Dior Bar suit. After working with Dior for more than three years, the designer decides not to renew his contract with the famous couture house. A decision that will take the fashion sphere by surprise,
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especially since the Raf Simons-Dior partnership was economically successful: with a sales increase of 11% compared to the previous year over the 2014-2015 period. Simons, submerged by an enormous workload and an increasing pressure left the label to refocus on his brand and enjoy his private life. “I had all the technical means to succeed, but I needed more time between the collections to find the inspiration,” he admitted a little later. I’m not the kind who loves to do things fast, my ideas need to mature,” declared the designer. After months of speculation, he was officially appointed as Calvin Klein’s new Chief Creative Officer, while entrusting the artistic direction to Pieter Mulier, whose mission was to bring Raf Simons’ vision to life through the different collections of the house. “The arrival of Raf Simons as chief creative officer signifies a momentous new chapter for Calvin Klein,” said Steve Shiffman, CEO of Calvin Klein, Inc. “Not since Mr. Klein himself was at the company has it been led by one creative visionary, and I am confident that this decision will drive the Calvin Klein brand and have a significant impact on its future. Raf’s exceptional contributions have shaped and modernized fashion as we see it today and, under his direction, Calvin Klein will further solidify its position as a leading global lifestyle brand.” The rest is history.
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S E L E CT ION S · A PAS S ION F OR T I M E
A PASSION FOR TIME The founder of the Dubai Watch Club, Adel Al Rahmani tells us about his life’s passion, watch collecting.
Mehdi Mabrouk The world of fine watchmaking has driven many passionate collectors around the world to spend a tremendous amount of time researching and sourcing watches. From auctions to flea markets the watch collectors are a rare breed of individuals who have made it their duty to know everything there is to know about timepieces. Watch collectors have been hard to find in the past primarily because a vast majority of them tend to be very secretive about their collection. With the advent of social media and the tradition of sharing watch images on the rise, more and more collectors have gradually come out into the open with pictures of their collection. This has also made it easier for collectors to find each other and come together as a collective entity. The Dubai Watch Club is one such entity that was founded in 2014 by Adel Al Rahmani, an Emirati with a passion for watches. Al Rahmani created the club because he was convinced that he could find, in Dubai, people who shared the same love for watches. He gathered some of his friends along with other watch collectors he contacted through Instagram and launched the club as we know it today. At present, the club has around 60 members from the U.A.E and a following of over 70,000 on Instagram. Over the last three years, the Dubai Watch Club has evolved from a formal connoisseurs club to a brotherhood that is centered around the understanding and promotion of fine watchmaking. With frequent meetups, the fraternity has become
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a focal point for some of the most prominent watch collectors and brands in the region. The Dubai Watch Club serves as a platform for collectors to meet and discuss new acquisitions with each other. Each meetup lasts for several hours and the members discuss future acquisitions and share their opinions with each other. It’s a unique platform where men from different generations and socioeconomic backgrounds get together setting aside other differences and enjoy timepieces. To get a glimpse of this very private world of watch collectors and how they think, we sat down with Adel Al Rahmani, the founder of Dubai Watch Club. How did you get into the world of watches? Watches always fascinated me from an early age, and I acquired my first mechanical watch, a Breitling for Bentley at the age of 16. My second watch was a Breitling Super Avenger; my third watch was a Rolex. These first three watches marked my entry into the world of high watchmaking. What type of watches do you collect? I would not call myself a textbook case of a watch collector. In my opinion, a real watch collector is someone who collects very particular types of watches. For instance, a collector would be someone who collects only Omega Speedmasters from 1971 to 1976, and that is it. They do not collect anything else. That should be your focus. You concentrate your
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Adel Al Rahmani, Founder of the Dubai Watch Club
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efforts on getting all the models, dials and special editions released within this period. I like to describe myself as a watch enthusiast and how that works is, I could buy a complication and then the next purchase could be a threehanded watch. It does not make a difference to me because I go through different moods and it reflects in my buying pattern. When I started I said to myself, I am never going to have more than one watch from the same brand. Then I broke that rule with my very next purchase. The next rule was I could only have one of each complication, and I broke that rule as well because honestly if you like the Rolex Daytona, you will like the Omega Speedmaster as well. I made new rules, and I kept breaking them over and over again. At the moment I just decide to buy what I like. How do you decide on the next watch to add to your collection? I don’t focus on the visual aesthetics when I purchase a timepiece. I am more fascinated with the technical details of a watch. It’s captivating that inside of a small frame you can fit so many pieces that work together to do some very complicated tasks. The engineering that goes inside the case is what lures me.
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You have a diverse collection, how would you introduce it to someone? When it comes to presentation, the key thing is how you arrange your watches. For example one of the members of the Dubai Watch Club puts all of his Day Dates in one place, the Daytonas is another, the Heuers in another and so on. That is one way to organize your collection. My watches are presented in order of acquisition, so whenever I receive a watch, it goes into the next slot, and I have always arranged it this way. So when you look at my watch case, you can see how the collection evolved from when I was a 16-year-old until today. It is a portrayal of my evolution as a watch enthusiast. What would you say are the highlights of your personal watch collection? There are no highlights per se, but I can tell you there are quite a few crowd pleasers. I have a very tough time picking one watch over the other, and that is why I have a system that allows me to choose the watch I wear for the day. I wear all my watches in order of their acquisition; that way they are all worn equally.
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TIMELESS EXCELLENCE
Since its inception more than a century ago, Bovet’s passion for elegance, finesse and exception continue to animate its creations. Signé looks back at the Swiss watchmaker’s incredible story. Watchmaking as an industry flourished in Fleurier during the 18th century until the Napoleonic wars caused economic destabilization in the region. By the mid-19th century, the focus had shifted to producing watches almost exclusively for the Chinese markets. Édouard Bovet was the son of JeanFrédéric Bovet, a watchmaker based out of Fleurier. In 1814, after having studied the art of watchmaking under his father, he traveled to London along with his brothers, Alphonse and Frederic to further his study of watchmaking. At the time, London was the principal commercial hub for watches from around the world. After studying in the city for a few years with the firm of Messrs. Ilbury & Magniac, Magniac sent
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Bovet to Canton, China in 1818. Almost as soon as he arrived, he was able to sell four of his watches for the sum of CHF 10,000 representing the equivalent of one million dollars today. Edouard, sensing an immense opportunity in China, convinced his brothers, Alphonse and Frederic, who stayed in London, and their third brother Gustave, a watchmaker in Fleurier, to come together as an enterprise targeting the watchmaking trade with China. The company was officially registered in London on the 1st of May, 1822. When Edouard Bovet set out to manufacture his first timepieces, he was keen to ensure that the watches embodied more than the basic functionality of
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timekeeping. Cases and movements were adorned with gems, pearls, miniature paintings in Grand Feu enamel, and engravings. Very soon Bovet had become a reference in the industry for the decorative arts. In addition to precious stone setting and enamel work, engraving is omnipresent throughout Bovet’s history and every different technique is mastered and employed. In the engraving of movements, Bovet introduced a hitherto unknown level of detail. The decoration of movements was very subtle and, in a bold new step, every possible surface was engraved to compose veritable three-dimensional masterpieces. The results, both convincing and original, led Edouard Bovet to reveal his engraved
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movements to the naked eye by incorporating the first transparent case-backs in his designs. He took the watchmaking arts to the pinnacle of refinement. The Emperor of China was one of the earliest collectors and today many BOVET timepieces remain part of the priceless heritage of the Forbidden City. While the business activities of BOVET had their beginnings in China and Edouard Bovet at the time had the clear-sightedness to manufacture timepieces specifically for the Middle Empire, the fame of the “Bovets of China”, as they were then called, spread rapidly to other continents. When Edouard Bovet died in Fleurier at the age of 52, the word Bovet was a synonym for fine watchmaking in China. During the 20th century, the house distinguished itself by proposing many innovations and patents. One of them being a pocket watch dating back to around 1920 which holds the absolute record of autonomy with 360 days of power reserve.
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Other notable achievements include the patent for the 1930 easel watch that paved the way for the Amadeo system, and the iconic Mono-rattrapante Chronograph whose simplified and more reliable mechanism still features on the syllabus of all swiss watchmaking schools. Since its acquisition by Pascal Raffy in 2001, Bovet 1822 has negotiated the first two decades of the 21st century using the same values and ethos that steered its course in the 19th century. In just fifteen years, the Maison has successfully established an in-house center of excellence that creates its own movements, dials, and cases. Its accomplishments in the relatively short period include the iconic Amadeo case, fifteen patents and a host of new calibers. 190 years since its inception, Bovet is a Maison keen on preserving the future of watchmaking’s decorative arts, a field in which many skills were otherwise destined to disappear forever. This heritage and the exceptional expertise built up over
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two centuries of watchmaking activity are illustrated in the contemporary designs of the House of Bovet, which continues tirelessly to innovate in keeping with tradition. Hand engravings are therefore present on all movements contained in BOVET timepieces. Heirs to the expertise of their predecessors and loyal to the history of the House, the artisans employed today by BOVET can decorate every part of a timepiece where such work is technically possible, regardless of the chosen motif and engraving technique. Dials, flanges, case-bands, bezels and bows are therefore frequently decorated. The place that Bovet occupies in museums the world over are no chance phenomena. Bovet pocket watches dating from the 19th century can be found as part of most major private and institutional collections around the world, and they are a testament to the fact that Bovet has indeed raised the decorative arts to a level rarely equalled.
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THE SCHOOL OF RARE ARTS
The L’ÉCOLE Van Cleef & Arpels presents jewelry aficionados in the U.A.E a once in a lifetime opportunity to gather knowledge from expert jewelers, gemologists, and master watchmakers.
The L’ÉCOLE Van Cleef & Arpels is the world’s first school established for the general public to discover the savoir-faire, history, and culture of fine jewelry and watchmaking. Founded with the support of the Maison Van Cleef & Arpels in Paris in February 2012, the school is an intersection of experimentation and dialogue and presents a unique opportunity to enrich knowledge in the rare arts. It does so with the help of experts who are passionate about their subjects: art historians, virtuoso craftsmen, experienced jewelers, gemologists, and master watchmakers share their knowledge with students from all over the world. Located in an 18th-century mansion in Place Vendome, the cradle of Parisian jewelry, L’ÉCOLE travels the world with the spirit of openness and sharing the wealth of knowledge mastered by Maison Van Cleef & Arpels for over a hundred years. The global programs act as an initiation into the world of jewelry, carrying those who have a love for jewelry beyond a mere basic understanding of jewelry. The goal of the school is to instill an intellectual understanding of the spirit of the exception crafts of fine jewelry; with hands, eyes and the sense of taste.
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Having previously traveled to Tokyo, New York, and Hong Kong, the school arrives in Dubai with the most ambitious program presented so far. L’ÉCOLE presents its program in Dubai from the 7th until the 25th of November, 2017 and will take place at Hai d3, at Dubai Design District offering 14 adult classes around three broad themes: Savoir-Faire (knowhow), Art History of Jewels, and The Universe of Gemstones; as well as five creative workshops for children and adolescents. The teaching team of L’ÉCOLE Van Cleef & Arpels is made up of more than 30 professors: jewelers, mock-up artists, designers, watchmakers, gemologists, art historians, master lacquerers and enamelers. Each one teaches in his or her area of expertise and they all share a commitment to transmit their knowledge by means of hands-on experiences and dialogue. Savoir-faire classes boast the styles and the stones, which give life to jewelry: from the first stroke of the pencil to physical reality, students discover all of the secrets behind jewelry making. Gemology classes reveal the mysteries of the gemstones, and Art History of Jewelry tells the stories of historical chapters of jewelry evolution, and hidden secrets of the world of jewels.
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In light of inspiring the youth, L’ÉCOLE also invites a younger audience to develop its creativity while discovering a new world of jewelry design. Five creative workshops for children and adolescents from 5 to 16 will offer them the opportunity to explore the creative professions. These will take place through local schools’ collaborations during the week and will be open to the public during the weekends. L’ÉCOLE Van Cleef & Arpels in Dubai will be participating in “The Year of Giving” as declared by the UAE President, His Highness Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan. All funds collected from course registrations during the event will be donated to Dubai Cares. Upon registration for the adult classes, students are asked to contribute a minimum donation of AED 400, 100% of which will be donated to Dubai Cares. The creative workshops for children and adolescents are free of charge.
“We are excited to announce the Middle East debut of L’ÉCOLE in a year when we celebrate our 5th Anniversary,” said Marie VallanetDelhom, President of L’ÉCOLE Van Cleef & Arpels. “During the past five years, more than 16,000 students from all over the world have benefited from the educational content of L’ÉCOLE in Paris and abroad. Bringing L’ÉCOLE to the GCC is part of our commitment to give back to the region we operate in. It allows us the opportunity to transmit our knowledge of fine craftsmanship, jewelry and watchmaking, a profession which the Maison Van Cleef & Arpels has been at the heart of for over a hundred years.” said Alessandro Maffi, Managing Director Middle East & India Van Cleef & Arpels. “We are honored that our initiative is being supported with reputed educational and cultural institutions from our region. We look forward to inspiring the new generation and gaining their interest in the art of jewelry design and watchmaking.”.
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SELECTIONS · WANDERLUST SCENTS
WANDERLUST SCENTS
The Ralph Lauren Collection takes you on an olfactory journey around the world.
Mehdi Mabrouk Ralph Lauren recently launched its first ever fragrance line, the Ralph Lauren Collection; a line created by hand-selected master perfumers from the most famous perfume houses in the world. These new fragrances express five striking destinations through exquisite scents: A Portrait of New York, Riviera Dream, A Legacy of English Elegance, Song of America and Treasures of Safari. “When I design, I invite you on a journey,” says Ralph Lauren. “It starts with the mood of a certain place, and I create a movie to tell that story—the textures and colors, and even the scents. My hope is that I’ve created worlds that you want to return to again and again.” The Ralph Lauren Collection of fragrances also offers accessories in handcrafted leather. Amongst the offerings are a magnificent sleeve designed for the 100ml Eau de Parfum and a Traveler’s Trunk that can display ten 100ml Eaux de Parfum or be converted into an elegant jewelry case. Carlos Benaim, from International Flavors and Fragrances Inc., one of the perfumers who worked on the project, tells us more about this exquisite collection. When asked to create Ralph Lauren’s first-ever Collection of fragrances, where do you begin? As a perfumer, I connected with Ralph Lauren’s design vision and was encouraged to add a ‘cinematic’ quality to the fragrances. I wanted to give each fragrance a famous and iconic feeling, to take the consumer on an olfactive journey to different destinations.
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Can you describe to us the technical side of the Ralph Lauren Collection? It was important to use only the most exceptional ingredients for a timeless and sophisticated construction. We used CO2 Extraction and the Vanilla CO2 in Ralph Lauren Amber. This technology uses specific conditions of pressure and temperature to bring CO2 to the supercritical fluid state. The interest of this technology resides in its temperature of extraction which is at room temperature and which results in the preservation of the softness. Vanilla CO2 used in Ralph Lauren Amber is critical as it has both the soft and gourmand notes of vanilla for an elegant fragrance, not a “sweet” scent. Are any of the fragrances designed to be layered? If so, which scents and why? The trend of layering is growing and becoming a genuinely new gesture for consumers. Ralph Lauren Collection fragrances are designed to be authentic interpretations of the noblest ingredients. By layering them, incredible combinations have been identified, giving a new olfactive effect. Ralph Lauren Collection is an invitation to experiment with fragrances. Do you have a personal favorite Collection scent? Why? I like them all; however, if I had to choose one, it would be Amber. It takes me back to my childhood in Morocco.
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SELECTIONS · MASCULINE SCENTS
MASCULINE SCENTS A selection of fragrances every man should own.
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Maison Martin Margiela “Replica – Jazz Club” Jazz Club is the embodiment of the masculine and exhilarating atmosphere of a New York jazz club. Boasting notes of musk, vanilla, tonka bean, vetiver, and tobacco leaves the fragrance is meant to capture unique moments.
Le Labo ‘Benjoin 19 Unisex Cologne This unisex perfume and boasts smooth notes of balsam, amber and cedarwood balanced by its spicy accords. The formula brings to this smoking wood alloy—sandalwood, papyrus, cedarwood—some spicy, leathery, musky notes and gives this perfume its unisex signature and addictive comfort.
Tom Ford Private Blend ‘Oud Wood’ Cologne This iconic fragrance boasts some of the rarest, precious, and expensive ingredients in Tom Ford’s inventory. The oud gives the perfume its strength while the rose wood extracts add the flowery smell that makes this perfume so iconic.
Spicebomb by Viktor & Rolf This perfume is the result of the encounter of two strong accords. It is a blend of fresh, zesty notes and cold spices that meet the masculine strength of tobacco and leather. A detonating combination.
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A*Men Pure Tonka Thierry Mugler for Men This classic from Thierry Mugler is being revamped for 2017. The A*Men Pure Tonka is a limited edition fragrance created using roasted tonka beans. It also boasts notes of lavender, coffee, patchouli, and vanilla.
L’Eau d’Issey Pour Homme Fraiche Issey Miyake This new chapter in the l’Eau d’Issey saga is an ode to freshness and energy. Boasting ultra-masculine, yet fresh notes the fragrance is long lasting and light at the same time. Using mineral accords it also brings a singular and appreciable after-smell.
Acqua di Parma Cedro di Taormina Fresh citrus essences and aromatic basil capture the landscape’s vibrant fragrance and sunlit radiance. In the heart of the fragrance, black pepper and lavender create a sparkling, spicy experience and blend perfectly with the elegant, intense base notes of cistus labdanum, vetiver, and Virginia cedarwood.
Jimmy Choo Man Intense The new Jimmy Choo man is confident, masculine and daring. He is a thrill seeker, who lives for the moment embracing a zest for life that demands an equally compelling fragrance. Innate confidence with touches of rock ‘n’ rolls expression and a hint of a 1960s Mayfair playboy and Effortless attitude and an overtly masculine style.
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SELECTIONS · NEW YORK FLAIR
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NEW YORK FLAIR The American designer presents its Fall/Winter collection in his private garage.
Ralph Lauren presented its latest collection in an exclusive setting at this year’s New York Fashion Week, amongst one of the world’s rarest and most exquisite automotive collections. The cars, used as props for this show, all belong to Ralph Lauren’s personal collection and are all kept in perfect operating condition and driven regularly. Held in Ralph Lauren’s suburban Westchester estate, two hours away from New York, the show featured some of the designer’s rarest cars. His million-dollar automobile collection that includes makes like Ferrari, Alfa Romeo, Bentley, Mercedes-Benz, and Porsche. Guests had the opportunity to feast their eyes on the designer’s latest collection but also on a classic 1955 Porsche 550 Spyder, and one of only two 1938 Bugatti 57SC Atlantic Coupes ever built, a car estimated to be worth USD 40 million and which the industrialist Gianni Agnelli once made a personal visit to Lauren’s garage in Westchester, New York, to see. The designer’s collection includes also A 1962 Ferrari 250 GTO, said to be the most beautiful Ferrari ever made. “My cars have always been an inspiration to me. I see them as moving art. My collection for Fall 2017 connects the elements of the speed, style, and beauty of these handcrafted vehicles with the very modern, yet timeless spirit of the clothes. There is a sleekness, an innate sexiness, and power to shapes sculpted out of high-tech patent leathers and high gloss silks,” said Ralph Lauren. The collection features tones of black and silver permeate as well as red, yellow and blue touches to add a relaxed elegance to its pieces. Inspired by Ralph Lauren’s own wardrobe the collection was created using the same techniques utilized for the Purple label. The designer’s latest line represents the season’s purest expression of men’s formalwear.
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SELECTIONS · NEW YORK FLAIR
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SELECTIONS · NEW YORK FLAIR
“I’ve always seen cars as art. Moving art. While friends of mine were into paintings, I somehow felt that the real beauty of owning a rare and magnificently designed car was the fact that you can use it. You can look at it, enjoy its visual qualities, as with a painting, but you can also get inside and drive it – which means both enjoying the drive itself and going somewhere with it.” Ralph Lauren
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The brand also did things differently this year by including men’s looks during the Women fashion week presentation. “To heighten the experience, men wearing looks from my Purple Label Collection will join the women on a runway lined with my cars in the pristine environment of my garage. This will create the ultimate expression of style and luxury for the woman and man of today,” said Ralph Lauren. Ralph Lauren is a fashion label that regularly uses its heritage to create new collections, but it is also a brand geared towards the future. Building on last year’s success, all the items presented during the runway are available online as soon as the show is over. Available on the brand’s website as well as on some of the most exclusive online retailers, the collection is bound to set this season’s trends.
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SELECTIONS · ORIENT MEETS OCCIDENT
ORIENT MEETS OCCIDENT
Signé presents Tawaf, a Geneva-based watch brand greatly inspired by the Middle East. The Tawaf watch is the result of the collaboration between the brand’s founder, an international businessman and knowledgeable collector, and Lionel Ladoire, a master watchmaker known for his originality and demand for technical excellence. Established in Geneva, it is a brand that combines this dual heritage of horological passion and expertise. Symbolizing boldness in watchmaking, its style is both enlightened and sophisticated. We sat down with Lionel Ladoire, the watchmaker, to learn more about him and his latest project, Tawaf. What is your history with wrist watches? I’ve always been fascinated by design and sophisticated mechanicals.
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For my first own creation, the Roller Guardian Time (RGT), I went off the beaten track by manufacturing my own micro-rotor calibre and not using hands for hours, minutes and seconds. I’ve always been fascinated by Bréguet and Patek Philippe for their classicism, and I admire Urwerk and Richard Mille for their risk-taking. Before you became a watchmaker, what was your intended career path in life? How did you come to watch making? I was actually destined to perpetuate my family’s tradition of being jewelers. We have also been involved in the field of micromechanics for over three generations. I very naturally followed in their footsteps at the
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age of 15. With the passing of time, my creations evolved, and it was just as natural that I realized one day that I had actually transposed my art to watchmaking and was designing complicated watches for demanding collectors. Can you tell us more about how Tawaf saw the light of day? A close friend of mine, deeply moved after returning from the pilgrimage to Mecca, described me his soul-stirring experience with such vivid words that I was strongly touched by his conviction and faith. It inspired me and gave me the vision of transposing the walk around the Kaaba to watchmaking. It became clear to me that Swiss craftsmanship had to honor this profound and unique experience. What characteristics are identifiable as a unique Tawaf timepiece? The Tawaf timepiece is unique in that it comprises an anti-clockwise display that references the circumambulation around the Kaaba. This had never been done before on such a finely crafted timepiece. Production is limited to 99 sets of three watches, each set protected by a travel case.
Each travel case and each trio received one of the 99 attributes of Allah, Creator of all things. Can you talk us through what an average day working for Tawaf looks like for you? I’m personally involved in overseeing the mechanical development of Tawaf’s models and ensuring that the servicing of its timepieces lives up to the highest standards in the industry. This project is very close to my heart and through EVO Luxury SA, a company managed by Mr. Hysek and myself, contractor for Tawaf, we see that the highest standards of quality be respected at each step of the production. What guiding principles did you follow in designing the second collection? Tawaf’s next collection will be a mechanical challenge, and the timepiece will induce a very personal and spiritual connection with its bearer. I followed my inspiration and paid tribute to another deeply moving experience of Islam that needed to be honored by the finest Swiss watchmaking.
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A RT & D E S I G N · A R E T R E AT L I K E N O O T H E R
A RETREAT LIKE NO OTHER As sustainability becomes a growing concern worldwide, brands in different industries are looking at ways of making their products aligned towards environmental issues. One of the primary concerns customers have when it comes to eco-friendly products is the aesthetics. The products need to retain their general attractiveness while playing the role of an eco-warrior. Brands like Tesla or Lush have been able to accomplish this goal, creating a great product while being eco-friendly. In the industrial manufacturing industry, Vipp is the example to follow; the Danish company has been able to create a luxury “Shelter” that can be placed anywhere their owners want without wrecking the nature surrounding it. The Shelter allows its owner to escape the urban chaos in a 55 square meters all-inclusive nature retreat, a prefabricated object designed down to the last detail. Made of a simple steel grid, this two-level space offers a large living room area with a shielded bathroom and bedroom. Owners can be surrounded by nature thanks to the Shelter’s transparent shell but don’t have to fear it thanks to the structure physical blindage. ‘A battery-charging station for humans’ is how Vipp’s CEO, Kasper Egelund, describes the company’s latest investment, which marks quite a category jump from Vipp’s signature product - the iconic pedal bin - a trash can. Created in 1939, Vipp is one of the oldest steel furniture manufacturers on the market. In 1939, Danish craftsman Holger Nielsen designed a pedal bin for his wife’s hairdressing salon. With a keen sense of aesthetics, he created the iconic trash can with a particular design: a large base to ensure stability, two handles to move easily and a cover that closes slowly thanks to an ingenious system of shock absorbers. Very soon, some of his wife’s clients, the wives of local doctors and dentists, commissioned Holger to equip the cabinets of their husbands. Little by little, the Vipp bin invited itself into Danish offices, clinics, and hospitals. In 1992, when Holger Nielsen died, his daughter Jette Egelund decided to take over the company. At that time, the pedal bin was almost exclusively sold on the industrial and professional market, but Jette saw a potential in a totally new market; She believed the trash can could be sold as a trendy accessory. She took a sample under her arm and went knocking on the doors of high-end furniture retailers in Denmark and abroad. She met Sir Terence Conran, who was about to open his first Conran Shop in London. The latter,
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at first puzzled, was finally seduced and placed a large order. Gradually, many other design brands in Europe were moving in the same direction and followed the Vipp model. Today, Vipp is still owned by Jette and her two children, Kasper and Sophie. The Vipp bin has definitely acquired its status as an icon of Danish design and has joined the Danish Design Center windows alongside Arne Jacobsen chairs and Bang & Olufsen hi-fi equipment. In 2005, thirty French artists decorated the iconic Vipp for Handicap International. Among them, Christian Lacroix, Philippe Starck, Ora-ïto, Chantal Thomass and Agnès b. “There is no evident link between a pedal bin, a kitchen, and a shelter, but enter
the shelter, and the philosophy of one, long lasting, functional tool per category is embodied in every object you see - each crafted from our 75-year long tradition of steel processing,” adds Egelund. The starting point of the Vipp shelter is going back to basics; back to nature in a dense, compact space wrapped in the Vipp DNA. The landscape is purposely framed, turning it into the predominant element of the interior space fitted with a predominantly dark-toned interior carefully selected to keep a focus on nature. “Vipp is rooted in the manufacture of industrial objects, so the term ‘shelter’ is a typology that allows us to define this modern escape as a product inspired by large volume objects such as airplanes,
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ferries, and submarines,” explained Morten Bo Jensen, chief designer in Vipp. As the HNWIs around the world are looking at new unique ways to enjoy their downtime, the Vipp Shelter can become an interesting alternative. With unique experiences become more and more sought after, the Shelter offers a new freedom to its owners. Based on their taste they could place it on an island as well as in the middle of a forest. The shelter comes fully equipped with Vipp products including everything from lighting to linen, from table to toilet brush, and from shelves to the soap dispenser. Prefabricated north of Copenhagen with a production time of 6 months and 3-5 days of installation, the Vipp shelter can be yours for a mere EUR 485,000.
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A RT & D E S I G N · AT H O M E W I T H G U C C I
AT HOME WITH GUCCI
The Italian fashion powerhouse collaborates with porcelain designer, Richard Ginori, on a series of unique pieces.
Mehdi Mabrouk After shaking the world of fashion with collections fusing romanticism, vintage, futurism, and eclecticism, Alessandro Michele applies his radical vision to furniture. Furniture, accessories, dishes, and candles are dressed in bright colors, regressive designs, and decorative figures, taking up the main influences of its ready-to-wear collections. A prolific creator, he recently launched his interpretation of Gucci’s fragrance and is continuing to impose his innovative vision into other areas of the brand’s extension. Gucci is taking a new direction with its home ware collection, and the creative direction of Michele can be seen on each of the label’s new venture. For Gucci Décor, he has recently designed porcelain tableware manufactured by Richard Ginori, a fine Florentine atelier founded in 1735
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and acquired by Gucci in June 2013. This porcelain collection features not only crockery decorated with the House’s iconic green Herbarium pattern but also candles and incense holders. Available in both black and green Herbarium, the brand’s famous colors, this collection is an eclectic line that pays homage to the Ginori Manufacture. “Alessandro Michele has combined his innovative aesthetic vision with the unique craftsmanship of the Manifattura that stems from centuries of history,” said Giovanni Giunchedi, President, and CEO of Richard Ginori. “We are honored to have been chosen by Gucci as a partner for the creation of these precious objects, which represent the perfect union between the great artistic tradition of Richard Ginori and the extraordinary talent of Alessandro.”
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Founded 280 years ago, Ginori is the epitome of Italian Excellence when it comes to the creation of high-quality porcelain items. Recognized worldwide for its expertise the brand has been collaborating for years with influential figures of the design, architecture and fashion industry. With the same approach of the collection that the artistic director adopts in fashion, the pieces of the “Gucci Décor” collection present a multitude of motifs already seen on the catwalks. All drawings, colors and decorative figures are inspired directly from its fashion line and are reinterpreted for furniture, accessories, and dishes. The influence of the lexicon of the Gucci Garden collection mixed with abundant flora and creatures honoring the designer’s
bestiary tendency is omnipresent. The bold screens, velvet cushions or porcelain teapots, reflect the neo-baroque universe of the house. For this collection, Alessandro Michele has also designed four perfumes to spread the Gucci style into the atmosphere. Inventum is a delicate note of an old Damascus rose associated with the rich and inimitable rose of Taif. Fumus is recognizable from the intense freshness of tomato leaves and aromatic plants combined with the scent of basil and lemongrass. Esotericum stands out thanks to the bitter aroma of Seville oranges subtly sprinkled with notes of jasmine, leather, and salt. Finally, the collection also offers a range of extravagant wallpapers, each with a postcard design from the brand’s Pre-fall 2017 collection. They are available in silk, vinyl, and paper.
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S E L E C T I O N S · I TA L I A N S AV O I R FA I R E
ITALIAN SAVOIR FAIRE Tradition and modernity meet in Minotti’s latest line. The main characteristic of Minotti’s identity is its talent to showcase the Made in Italy concept at its best, by blending tradition and modernity in a unique and almost seamless way. If you add to this the brand’s know-how and its careful selection of materials and technologies, which reveal a penchant for impeccable details, you can begin to grasp the uniqueness of the label. After years of experience and unquestioned expertise, Minotti is expanding its creativity in a new direction. Layering different influences and styles the brand has achieved a perfect balance between classic and contemporary design. Innovation is a value deeply embedded in Minotti’s style and tradition, and it can be seen in the design house’s latest collection. The 2017 collection coordinated by Rodolfo Dordoni features incredible interiors that convey and unique atmosphere of timeless elegance. A sophisticated aesthetic language that finds its voice in the choice of exclusive materials and surprising combinations - wood, stone, glass, fabrics, and leather - with amazing textures and colors that kindle feelings of warmth. A wide-ranging and eclectic style that also emerges in the new collection is from a variety of styles from the Lawrence and Pollock seating systems, the Jacques collection and many accessories. Each one with its own, unmistakable personality but capable of weaving a thoughtprovoking conversation in an intricate interplay of shapes, materials and fresh influences. The new Minotti outdoor collection is infused with an attitude of sociability: outdoor furnishings with a tasteful, contemporary vibe, perfect for creating comfortable settings where everyone can kick back and relax. The Florida series, with its curved shapes, the Halley “Outdoor” family, the Colette “Outdoor” armchair with its enveloping lines, the many complementary pieces all do their part to help create versatile outdoor rooms in which to enjoy friends and family year-round.
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Lou Table by Minotti Available in various sizes and finishes, arranging Lou coffee tables near one another calls to mind a charming domestic landscape. The construction of these tables is especially complex and combines modern technology with cabinetmaking tradition. This coffee table fits seamlessly in the bedroom, in place of a traditional bedside table, as well as in the living room.
Amelie by Minotti The enveloping lines of the Amélie little armchair ensure the perfect blend of elegant proportions and ergonomic comfort. The option to choose the base, and the many different upholstery selections available for the seat, make Amélie an especially versatile chair that can lend understated elegance to any type of decor.
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The Jacques collection includes sofas, and ottomans available in several sizes, originated from a common design seed that transforms a vaguely retro style into a symbol of contemporary style. A sophisticated aesthetic language that is expressed in soft shapes, compact proportions and details with striking visual impact, like the metal base with Light Bronze finish. The sophisticated elegance and compact proportions inherent in all the Jacques collection seating elements allow them to thrive harmoniously in any setting.
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OBSESSION · THE PURSUIT
THE PURSUIT It goes without saying that Ferrari is a marque that represents the definitive union of performance and automotive art. Designed by Flavio Manzoni, the head of design at Ferrari, the 488 GTB and 488 Spider subtly blends classic Ferrari lines with the latest performance technology. The 488 GTB name marks a return to the classic Ferrari model designation with the 488 in its moniker indicating the engine’s unitary displacement, while the GTB stands for Gran Turismo Berlinetta. The Ferrari 488 Spider is the latest chapter in Ferrari’s ongoing history of open-top sports V8 cars.
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OBSESSION · THE PURSUIT
Heading Out HE’S WEARING: HUBLOT - BIG BANG GMT - 45MM B R O W N L E AT H E R J A C K E T A N D J E A N S - C O R N E L I A N I I D B E I G E C A S H M E R E S W E AT E R - C O R N E L I A N I B R O W N L E AT H E R B A C K PA C K - C O A C H SHOES - BERLUTI
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The Wait HUBLOT - TECHFRAME FERRARI TOURBILLON CHRONO GRAPH - 45MM SHIRT & GREEN BLAZER - BILLIONAIRE COUTURE JEANS - PHILIPP PLEIN
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The Encounter SHE’S WEARING: HUBLOT - SPIRIT OF BIG BANG SAPPHIRE - 45MM D R E S S & S K I R T - F E N D I ( R U N WAY C O L L E C T I O N ) HEELS - JIMMY CHOO
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SHE’S WEARING: HUBLOT - SPIRIT OF BIG BANG MO ONPHASE ORANGE - 42MM SEQUINED EMBELLISHED BL AZER WITH FUR - L ANVIN L E AT H E R S K I R T - A I G N E R B L ACK H E E L S - G IORG IO AR MAN I
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OBSESSION · THE PURSUIT
Match Making HE’S WEARING: FULL SUIT - GIVENCHY LOAF E RS - S AN TON I
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SHE’S WEARING: TA S S E L E A R R I N G - WA FA B Y WA FA SERPENTI CLUTCH - BULGARI DRESS & HEELS - GIVENCHY
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The Devil is in the detail HE’S WEARING: HUBLOT - BIG BANG UNICO SAPPHIRE BLUE - 45MM BLAZER & SHIRT - CORNELIANI PULLOVER - BILLIONAIRE COUTURE
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She’s Gone
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SELECTIONS · WANDERLUST SCENTS
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SCULPTORS OF SKELETONS
Signé sits with Philippe Belais, CEO & Owner of Claude Meylan, to discuss the history and behind-the-scenes of the brand, and the fine art of skeletonized movements.
Mehdi Mabrouk The Swiss watchmaking industry in the 18th century was primarily centered along the shores of Lake Geneva in the region of Lausanne, Morges, and Rolle. Watchmakers in the Joux Valley had not yet received a warrant from the Bernese government and therefore had to learn their trade elsewhere, a process that meant five years of apprenticeship followed by three years as a journeyman, before they could submit a watch entirely made by themselves. SamuelOlivier Meylan is recognized as one of the first people to manufacture timepieces in the Joux Valley, becoming an official watchmaker in 1748, after a masterpiece he has produced was accepted by the watchmaking corporation in Moudon. Officially established in 1988, Claude Meylan is a watch brand that specializes primarily in skeletonizing watches. Descendants of SamuelOlivier Meylan, the great grandfather, and father of Claude Meylan had considerable know-how in the field of skeletonization. His grandfather was a teacher at the watchmaking school in Le Sentier at a time when the master skeletonizers gradually started to establish themselves in the valley at the turn of the twentieth century. Skeletonizing is a creative interpretation of watch components that involves stripping out the redundant metal involved in movements and decorating the remaining framework and elements of the movement. The Claude Meylan style presents the wheels, gear train and bridges in their refined ‘Squelette’ style that allows the observer to see the inner intricacies of a watch movement. The brand’s current owner Philippe Belais is an industry expert with over 25 years of experience in marketing and distribution of luxury brands. Philippe started his career as the Export Director for Pequignet watches, an independent French watchmaking firm. He then joined Alfred Dunhill in London where he worked as the Sales Director for Southern Europe, and subsequently General Manager with the responsibility of overseeing the brands watches, jewelry, pens, and lighters. A decade later in 2000, he left London for Geneva to the watchmaking division of Van Cleef & Arpels. In 2005, he took up the role of CEO of Bertolucci watches, a role he maintained for five years before acquiring Claude Meylan in 2010. We had a chance to discuss the behind-the-scenes at Claude Meylan with Philippe Belais on his recent visit to Dubai. How did you know of Claude Meylan and end up acquiring his brand? Claude Meylan is a very skilled watchmaker of whom I had heard great
things. Very early in his career, he had worked in Breguet’s skeletonization atelier and moved to Audemars Piguet a few years later. His creations had so much success that he decided to create his own namesake brand. Mr. Henri Berney, a member of another great watchmaking family from the region subsequently acquired the company and its activities in 2002. I was a regular customer of the Berney family through whom I frequently purchased various Valjoux movements for Bertolucci watches. In 2010 when I met Mr.Berney at an exhibition in Geneva he mentioned that they were seeking a buyer for Claude Meylan. He was 78 years old at the time, and his daughter was not keen on taking over the family business. I thought through the decision, and within ten months, around September 2010, we had reached an agreement, and I had officially become the new owner of Claude Meylan. How would you define the Claude Meylan brand? The Meylan family is one of the founding family of the Vallée De Joux, 300 years ago, and we use this heritage to create our models. The brand is inspired by the know-how of its founder and the art of skeletonization. We offer four lines with different inspirations; we are based in the small village of L’Abbaye, so the L’Abbaye collection is our classic, you can think of it as the blazer in your wardrobe, you have to own one. We have a lake close to our manufacture, so the lake-inspired line is a bit younger and sportier. There is a river nearby; we used it to create our feminine line. A line of smaller cases and softer lines. The last line is named Legend and is comprised of exceptional products that we are able to create thank to our stock of Valjoux movements. What sets the Claude Meylan brand apart from others? We benefit from over 300 years of know-how and focus on the watchmaking art. We are not a manufacture but Masters of Skeletons, so we work exclusively with very reliable movements, produced in mass and at accessible prices. Therefore, the Claude Meylan customer actually buys our savoir-faire, our Sculptures of Time. What were your first decisions after taking over the brand? The first thing I told myself after taking over was, we had to know how to walk before we could start running. When you acquire a brand and more specifically a watch brand, the first thing you must do is structure the collection. I decided to have four lines, making us go from 600 references to 80. It is important for your offering to be coherent. We offer only skeletonized watches; we have automatic, mechanic and chronograph
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watches but they all come with a skeletonized movement. Nobody offers as many skeletons as we do. How do you open new markets? You have to know the market, for instance, the US is a market that reacts to advertising, so if your advertising budgets are not massive, it does not make sense to push into US markets. When you head an independent brand, you have to think like an independent. For instance, I have been visiting the Middle East since 1987, and I know the market. Here people buy fashion watches at affordable prices or established brands. Four years ago we started working with Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons because they saw in Claude Meylan the opportunity to offer something different to the market. You have to find the right partners and go from there. As an independent, what do you think is the biggest challenge the watch industry will face in the future? First of all, I would like to think of the current situation as a revolution more than a crisis. I think than the main challenge we have to face is the future of distribution, the old ways of selling watches are disappearing, and that is the biggest issue. You have retailers that are trapped with big brands making it difficult to acquire new ones, and you have small retailers with attractive brands that can’t afford to open boutiques in hotspots. Most of our retailers talk about the internet, but their website is not generating more than 20 per cent of their turnover. We don’t know yet how watches are going to be sold in the future.
For sure some watches will be sold online but what type of watches? The automotive industry is very similar to the watchmaking industry. A few years ago there were plenty of dealerships, but today you see less of them. Now the new trend is opening bigger dealership offering a broad range of cars. People will research and compare on the internet that is for sure, but they still want to visit the showroom to make their decision. Watches and cars are purchases based on emotions, and I don’t think emotions can be triggered by seeing something on a website. How do you cope with the current scenario in the watch industry? Regarding the crisis, it is a bit longer than expected but at least it is easier to explain. It started with the decline in Russian spending then the new tax scheme in China. Once you lose these markets, you have to adapt your products. It does not mean that you have to lower your quality, but you have to get innovative to push people to buy. When I say innovation, it does not necessarily mean that we have to create new movements, but you have to put more effort in the cases and the way you decorate and present the watches. As the CEO I have to look at all the aspects of my business, but I was lucky to take over a business with a sound reputation and heritage; which means that even during a morose Baselworld we are able to open new markets and get more orders in. When you are an independent and the market changes you are the first to feel it, the key is to react fast.
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AQUATIC MASTERPIECE
La Perle is Dubai’s most anticipated show this year, taking place in Habtoor City’s new state-of-the-art aqua theatre; the show is set to amaze its audience.
Franco Dragone is one of the world’s most sought-after creative directors; he is credited for the 90’s live entertainment revolution. With shows like Saltimbanco, Quidam, Mystère, Alegria and O, Dragone changed the face of live entertainment in Las Vegas; decades later, these shows still get nightly standing ovations. Produced under the banner of his creative company Dragone, La Perle raises the bar for entertainment in the region. With a cast and crew composed of 130 people and a 1300 seat theatre in the heart of Al Habtoor City; the show is a fusion of acrobatic performances, creative imagery, and futuristic technology. “La Perle defines the future of global live entertainment while taking inspiration from Dubai’s rich cultural past, vibrant present and aspirational future,” explained the show’s organizers.
To make La Perle an immersive experience from beginning to end, La Perle’s journey starts in the theatre’s futuristic lobby. Here, guests can collect their tickets, get some refreshments and purchase some of the show’s merchandise. Once done, visitors can push the doors and make their way to the jaw-dropping theatre purpose built specifically for the show. With only 14 rows and seating 270 degrees around the aqua-stage, every seat offers an intimate and completely different perspective as the aweinspiring action unfolds. “A world-class theatre and show of this magnitude takes years to prepare for. It will set a new benchmark for the entertainment sector and put Dubai on the map as the goto destination for first-class live theatre. We look forward to welcoming our first guests,” commented Khalaf Ahmad Al Habtoor,
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Founding Chairman, Al Habtoor Group. Every night a cast of 65 artists will give their best to perform La Perle aerial and aquatic stunts. The 90-minute show is a truly immersive and captivating entertainment experience. The La Perle show is set to take place twice a night, five days a week. Performances run from Tuesday to Friday at 7:00 pm and 9:30 pm, and Saturday at 4 pm and 7 pm starting from August 31st. “It is a thrill to present the La Perle theatre to the public for the first time. An experience like no other, La Perle sets a new milestone in world-class entertainment with a show so spectacular that we had to build a theatre around it. We are extremely proud to present this unique project and can’t wait to welcome the first guests to immerse them in the wonderful world of
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La Perle,” said Franco Dragone, Creative Director of La Perle. Dragone’s most significant shows of the past ten years include Celine Dion’s a New Day, Le Rêve in Las Vegas, The House of Dancing Water in Macau and Aida in Naples. He is also the creative force behind The Han Show (Wuhan, China), The Dai Show (Xishuangbanna, China) and Philipp Kirkorov – Me (Russia). The common theme of these shows is, water; a key component of Dragone’s artistic DNA and is making the company one of the
world’s leading designer of aquatic theatres and shows. Dragone directed performances in a wide array of locations, from tailor-made theatres to operas in some of the world’s most historic buildings. His creative approach blends some of the world’s best talents with ground-breaking technological innovation to awe audiences and tells great stories. The company creates, produces and operates shows and special events around the world. Its five creative centers of excellence — Casting, Illustration & Video, Costumes,
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Architecture & Design, and Talents & Trends — push the boundaries of performing arts and of the spectator experience with every new creation. “La Perle will be the region’s first resident show. It will feature a cast of 65 artists, each bringing their own unique set of skills to the performance, ranging from acting, acrobats, aquatic and aerial stunts. These often gravitydefying performers will mesmerize as they dive into an on-stage pool, creating a visually captivating experience both below and above stage level,” concluded the company.
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HIGH FASHION · FALL IN STYLE
FALL IN STYLE Jimmy Choo presents its Autumn/Winter 2017 collection Fashion is an ever-evolving field, and it is always looking forward; however, some brands, like Jimmy Choo, regularly go back to their roots to design timeless casual collections. The brand’s Autumn/ Winter 2017 collection is based on the old codes of masculine dressing but offers a younger, edgier vision. Blending traditional and contemporary style, Jimmy Choo presents a suite of carefully calibrated footwear that challenges conventions. The collection emphasizes the notion of contrast. Inspired by British Punk Rock band The Clash and the concept of clashing aesthetics the collection delivers surprising blends of sartorial English eccentricity with a pinch of Punk rock attitude. Classic styles are rebuilt in radical new fabrications. Sneakers are presented in traditional corduroy, and formal lace ups are injected with star-studded attitude. Orthodox silhouettes are given new life via irreverent detail. It’s footwear as the foundation for a modern mode of dressing for style arbitrators. “The men who stood out in the past were those who had the courage to break rules: to find something they believed in and represent it. I was inspired by looking closely at The Clash, where their style codes are a fusion of traditional English gent with Punk attitude. This collection is ammunition for men who have their own point of view - raw material for self-expression in a world where individualism is the only style rule to abide by,” explained Sandra Choi, Jimmy Choo’s Creative Director.
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Cassius Sneakers
Ace Sneakers
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HIGH FASHION · TECH MEETS COUTURE
TECH MEETS COUTURE Oppo partners with noted Lebanese Designer Walid Atallah for a series of limited edition phone covers.
In May 2017, technology giant OPPO launched the much-awaited F3, the latest model to drive the next wave of the selfie revolution. With the popularity of its smartphone in the region, OPPO collaborated with celebrated Lebanese Designer Walid Atallah to design limited edition phone cases inspired by the Middle East. Launched only in the UAE markets in Mid-August, the limitededition phone cases have been developed in three options by Atallah. The first is a unisex image of a man & woman representing unity while taking a selfie, which is inspired by the Oppo F3 unique feature which is the dual selfie camera. The second is the female pink cover embodying women empowerment in the region, and lastly, the male blue cover signifies power. Both the male and female designs include an outline of a falcon, which is a symbol of the United Arab Emirates and the country’s national bird. The falcon also symbolizes power conveying freedom and courage to look ahead. The eye of the falcon indicates the high-performance cameras of OPPO devices and speed.
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“We felt it was a fantastic opportunity for OPPO to partner with such a prominent fashion label such as Walid Atallah and to align the camera phone with the lifestyle scene. OPPO is more than just a smartphone, our objective is to position it as a selfie fun and mobile communication gadget for everyone” said Naoufel Madih, the Marketing Manager for OPPO in the Middle East. To celebrate the launch and announce the first ever collaboration, OPPO and Walid Atallah hosted an exclusive preview at The Empty Quarter Gallery in DIFC. To learn more about this collaboration we sat with Naoufel Madih, Marketing Manager for OPPO in the Middle East. Could you tell us more about this collaboration? Nowadays smartphones are not only communication devices, but they have also become fashion accessories. A smartphone is used now as a fashion statement. At OPPO, we consider ourselves as a young and fashionable brand; as such working with a celebrated
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Walid Atallah
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“ We felt it was a fantastic opportunity for OPPO to partner with such a prominent fashion label such as Walid Atallah and to align the camera phone with today’s lifestyle scene. ” NAO UF E L MADI H , M I DDL E E AS T MAR K E T I NG MANAG E R , OPP O
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Naoufel Madih, Middle East Marketing Manager, Oppo with Walid Atallah
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regional designer from the Middle East was the logical thing that came to our mind to strengthen this statement. What motivated the choice of a regional designer? Walid Atallah is recognized in the region for his great personal achievements as well as his popular collaborations with other multinational brands. After sitting with him, I got the feeling that working together could give birth to great things and benefit both parties. He comes up an infinite amount of creative ideas within seconds, which showed me his interest in the project as well as his great creativity. What inspired the design of these limited edition covers? The three covers designs that were unveiled at the event were the
results of long hours of work and scrutiny. We ended up choosing these three because they embody the spirit of the country personified in the “Falcon.” The falcon is also well-known for his incredible eyesight that we would like to compare to our equally amazing cameras. Moreover, we added the “Selfie” cover that sums up the philosophy of the OPPO F series as the “Selfie Expert.” You announced a long-term partnership with Walid Atallah, what type of products can we expect in the future? Walid Atallah is a very creative designer, and he is always proposing ideas. At the moment we are evaluating together what could be the next step in this partnership. We would like to keep the outcome a secret for a little while longer, but we will be revealing it to the public shortly.
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P H I L A N T H R O P Y · WAT C H M A K I N G F O R A C A U S E
WATCHMAKING FOR A CAUSE
Only Watch is a bi-annual auction of unique timepieces created by the world’s finest watchmakers to finance research on Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. The auction has become a world-renowned event, and its success is based on the generosity, altruism, and willingness expressed by organizers, partners and watch brands. The watch manufacturers supply watches, and the rest of the partners handle the logistical or organizational supports. Thanks to this support system the organization of Only Watch represents less than two per cent of the auction results. Since its inception in 2005, the auction has raised more than EUR 25 million that financed a large number of scientific and medical research programs. The 7th edition will be held on 11 November 2017 and is organized by the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies (Monaco Association against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy) and is supported by His Sovereign Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco. Each supporting brand donates a unique timepiece specially made for Only Watch; alternatively, brands can also offer a one-off
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version of an iconic timepiece of their choice. These watchmaking wonders can fetch tens of thousands up to million of euros. The 2017 edition is adding a new aspect to attract buyers. From now on, and whenever possible, brands will add unique experiences to their offering. “According to its cultural heritage and desire, the manufacturer combines the one-off timepiece with a collaboration and/or an experience with an ambassador of the brand and invite the highest bidder of the lot to attend a special event such as Formula 1, film festivals or fashion shows,” explained the organizers in a statement. A promotional world tour is planned, ahead of the auction, to allow hundreds of collectors, enthusiasts, potential clients and the media to discover the unique horological creations offered at Only Watch. The stopovers are scheduled between 27 September and 11 November. Ahead of the big day, Signé compiled a selection of some of the most interesting pieces Only Watch has to offer.
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Arnold & Son Arnold & Son presents a unique skeleton timepiece with a symmetrical movement construction inspired by 18th-century English skeleton clocks. The Time Pyramid Only Watch features a black DLC case, red hands, and hours numerals as well an ADLC coated movement.
Audemars Piguet Straight from Le Brassus, Audemars Piguet brings its Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Only Watch. It features a skylightblue “Grande Tapisserie” dial, polished counters in solid gray gold and orange-tinted photo-realistic moon, combined with a black ceramic Royal Oak case, bezel and bracelet. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Only Watch, is the first of its kind to feature a black ceramic case back with a sapphire display.
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Breguet The Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel en Ligne 7715 special Only Watch 2017 is a one-of-a-kind model. This yellow gold 39mm classic watch features and a perpetual calendar and a new guilloché dial that balances the visual aspect of the watch. The particularity of this watch is its practical display; by taking a look at a single line, you can see the day, month, date and leap years.
Carl. F Bucherer For the first time with its Manero Peripheral Only Watch 2017, Carl F. Bucherer added a royal blue peripheral rotor, a technological feature rarely seen in modern watchmaking. The piece also features an 18-carat white and a manufacture caliber CFB A2050 as well as blue indexes, hands, and date. It also boasts a dedication on the see-through sapphire-crystal case back “ONLY WATCH 2017 – Pièce unique – Fabriquée en Suisse.”
Chronoswiss The Flying Regulator ‘Red Passion’ For Only Watch 2017 is the watchmaker’s third contribution to the event. It pays tribute to the power of love with different shades of red on the watch. One of the fascinating aspects of this timepiece is its 3D-constructed and guilloché dial and the unique shade of red created for Only Watch.
F.P Journe With its Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante, the Swiss watchmaker presents an entirely new watch. Developed exclusively for the Only Watch auction it features a new 44mm Tantalum case and a new caliber, the Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante caliber. The watch comes in a18K rose gold case and a new blue chrome dial.
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Fabergé The Fabergé Visionnaire Chronograph marks a new standard in charting time with a revolutionary new movement. The automatic caliber 6361, developed in partnership with Agenhor, imparts unprecedented clarity, precision, and efficiency.
Montblanc For Only Watch 2017, Montblanc is diving into its archives to present a one-of-a-kind 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Unique Piece Only Watch’17. Boasting a vintage bronze and green and inspired by the Minerva chronographs from the 1930s, this vintage watch features a bronze case, green dial, and the Manufacture mono-pusher chronograph caliber.
Patek Philippe Created for Only Watch 2017 the 5208T-010 is an excellent piece of watchmaking. Produced in titanium, a metal rarely used by Patek Philippe, the timepiece features a handguilloched dial as well as a see-through sapphire case back. The beauty of a Patek Philippe is in the details, and with this piece, the watchmaker proves once again that its main mission is the protection of the Metiers d’art.
Speake Marin Developed in collaboration with its brand ambassador Pierce Brosnan, Speake Marin presents a unique watch, Resilience for Life. This piece is the embodiment of the Only Watch spirit. Supporting the fight against the Duchenne muscular dystrophy, the watch has the words “Love Life” written by hand by Pierce Brosnan on the lower half of the dial, his signature on the case back and “Only Watch 2017” engraved on the gold case back.
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A CENTURY OF TANK Cartier celebrates the 100th anniversary of one of its most iconic model.
Designed in 1917 by Louis Cartier, The Tank de Cartier watch series, one of the Maison’s most famous unisex watches, celebrates its 100th anniversary this year. The Tank dressed the wrist of outstanding personalities throughout its first century, from Fred Astaire and Yves Saint-Laurent to Michelle Obama. The Tank’s now iconic design is driven by two values the security and power of the battle tank and the artistic vision of cubism. As Laure Dalon, curator at the Grand Palais writes in the book “Cartier. Style and History “, the Cubist movement has gradually made its way into all the arts, both major and minor. Louis Cartier was himself an artist in jewelry and clock making. The design of the Tank is both masculine and feminine,” explains John Reardon, international director of Christie’s Watch department. “Born out of military inspiration, and conceived as an avant-garde chic watch, the Tank seems to be in its element both on the battlefield and the
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boardroom, on women’s wrists and the wrist. of men, young people and the elderly, “he continues. “The Tank evokes a style out of time, grace, all in a way that is only possible by a hundred years of age.” Lady Diana, Princess of Wales, had her Cartier Tank on her wrist while she was visiting minefields in Angola. Special Envoy of the United Nations High Commissioner, Angelina Jolie, wore her Tank during her visits to developing countries. What about men and the Cartier Tank? It appears that for decades men of taste and style have opted for the Tank. The man wearing a Tank is not afraid to have a watch on his wrist that a woman can wear. Tom Ford, one of today’s most fashionable designers, also regularly wears the timepiece. In its 100th year, the Tank has never felt so renewed in its spirit. It continues to serve as a universal symbol of style and elegance as it has done in its first hundred years.
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Gary Cooper
Yves Saint-Laurent
Alain Delon
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Andy Warhol
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Tank Louis Cartier First created in 1922, the Tank Louis Cartier symbolizes the quintessential Tank spirit. In a distinctive design that spans the century, the Louis Cartier watch features brancards with proud, taut lines, softened corners and horns incorporated into the case. Clear-cut lines and a strict, measured composition forge the powerful style and character of this pure, enduring and timeless creation. Today the model offers two new faces, both powered by the 8971 MC mechanical movement with manual winding: a choice of pink or white gold in a women’s watch with diamondset brancards or a fine, elegant pink gold model, a chic, incontrovertibly Cartier creation.
Tank Francaise The Tank Française, first released in 1996, give a second life to Cartier’s iconic timepiece. Its case was attached to a metal bracelet, thus forcing the brand’s designers to redesign the sides of the watch as well as include Roman numerals on its dial. The shape asserts itself in the curved case and bracelet, which form a seamless continuity of lines, volume, and material. Its geometry is simultaneously softened and strengthened by beveled brancards and the concave curves of the links. Today, the Tank Française is one of the most recognizable Cartier watches.
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Tank Americaine
Launched in 1989 the Tank Americaine was based on the 1921 design of the Tank Cintrée. Noticeable changes include a more compact rectangular shape with curved brancards. The watch’s elongated form made it a classic piece showcasing a great deal of strength and elegance. This model can be seen as an homage to the very first Tank watch given to General Pershing, after World War I. The new Tank Américaine embodies the spirit of the original Tank in its contemporary, understated aesthetic. Showcasing clean lines and a strong presence on the wrist, the eternally elegant model makes an utterly modern statement in presenting steel as a precious material.
Tank Cintrée Skeleton
The Tank Cintrée is an iconic and inspirational model for Cartier. It influenced the design of several Tank models but remains a very soughtafter piece. With this watch, Cartier achieves a true watchmaking prowess. Two versions – in pink gold or platinum – reveal a skeleton movement that follows the curves of the case. Its transparent design only preserves the bare essentials: the hands, the chemin de fer and the overlapping gears in the background, all contained within the distinctive curve of the Tank Cintrée.
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THE STORY OF AN ICON Signé visits the Hotel Café Royal in London and tells its tale In 1863, a bankrupt French wine merchant named Daniel Nicolas Thévenon and his wife Célestine fled Paris to England in hopes of escaping the clutches of their creditors. Thus begins the tale of Café Royal, born out of the need of a bankrupt man wanting to see a piece of Paris in London. Daniel Nicolas Thévenon started by giving himself a British accent and by changing his name to Daniel Nicols. Barely two years after his arrival, he opened on Regent Street an institution born of his imagination: the Café Royal. It is in the hands of his son-in-law that the family business acquires its letters of nobility. At the end of the 19th century, the Café Royal is known for its originality, a remarkable establishment, endowed with what was probably one of the best wine cellars in the world. Imagined by John Nash in the early nineteenth century, Regent Street presents a homogeneous architecture, such as there are few in London. Originally known as New Street, the Georgian artery was later renamed in honor of George IV, then Prince Regent. When Café Royal opened its doors to the south of the street in 1865, the famous houses in a row bordered by colonnades designed by Nash constituted a novelty. They are still emblematic of central London today.
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Throughout the ages, Café Royal has always set the tone of London’s social life. Attracting an illustrious clientele of artists, celebrities, and high society, it has established itself on the London social scene and has been a landmark of the capital for more than a century. Frequented by writers and artists such as Oscar Wilde and Aubrey Beardsley, the conversations, inspirations, and discussions at the Café were never trivial. Arthur Conan Doyle, George Wells, George Bernard Shaw, Rudyard Kipling, W.B. Yeats, Walter Sickert and James McNeill Whistler were among his illustrious clients. Eminent personalities such as Winston Churchill, Augustus John, D. H. Lawrence, Virginia Woolf, Noël Coward, Jacob Epstein and Graham Greene were also present. Members of the royal family were also involved in the hotel’s history. The Prince of Wales, who, under the name of Edward VIII, decided to abdicate to marry Mrs. Simpson, and the Duke of York, future George VI, was regularly having breakfast at the Cafe, like the late Diana Princess of Wales. The great people of this world were still rushing to the Café in the middle of the 20th century. The sensual charm of Brigitte Bardot, the romantic rendezvous of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor, adorned with her finest jewelry, as well as the unforgettable appearances of the stars of music and sport, such as Louis Armstrong and Mohamed Ali, were part of daily life at the Café. In 1973, David Bowie separated from his famous alter ego, Ziggy Stardust, during a “last supper” which brought together all the stars of the moment. Mick Jagger and Lou Reed, were among the guests. The Hotel Located in the heart of London, with elegant Mayfair to the west and creative Soho to the East, the hotel is perfectly positioned within walking distance of London’s finest shopping streets, tourist attractions and theatres. Within the hotel, grand historic areas have been sensitively restored while 160 guestrooms and suites, including
seven signature suites, have been created in a contemporary yet refined style. The hotel underwent a four-year renovation and reopened its doors in 2012. Reinvented and redesign by British architect David Chipperfield, the hotel now blends classical and modern architecture. The classic side of the hotel is present in the common areas where high ceilings, mirrors, and chandeliers are wowing guests all year long. Its modern side is kept for the guests to enjoy in their rooms. The Hotel Café Royal 160 rooms and suites boast Bang & Olufsen gadgets, giant flat-screen TVs and music systems that can be synced via Bluetooth. The ceilings are high and decorated in a more contemporary way. Besides enjoying one of London’s best locations and its surrounding attractions, the hotel’s guests can also indulge in exclusive culinary experiences. Hotel Café Royal London recently announced a collaboration with French perfumer and artist diptyque to create an Afternoon tea inspired by a selection of the brand’s most popular scents. The “diptyque Afternoon Tea” is served exclusively in the hotel’s the Oscar Wilde Bar and was recently awarded the title of ‘Best Traditional Afternoon Tea’ in the 2017 Afternoon Tea Awards. Guests can also enjoy, in one of the hotel’s nine treatment rooms including one that is a double cabin, unique treatments that combine the innovative practices of the West with the ancestral traditions of the Orient. Massages and exfoliating scrubs are available in a private hammam, while a Vichy shower is reserved for hydrotherapy treatments. The Akasha Wellness Center also has the first Watsu Pool in London for personalized care and guided meditation. The Hotel Café Royal is one of London’s most exclusive properties. Loaded with the memories and experiences of the world’s most famous politicians, artists, and writers, it offers guests a unique stay in the heart of the English capital.
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SANCTUARY AT THE SHORE
The Shangri-La Hotel Qaryat Al Beri, across the shore from the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is the perfect getaway for those seeking absolute tranquility. Abu Dhabi is an Emirate that represents the quiet opulence of an authentic Middle Eastern lifestyle. The largest of the UAE’s seven emirates, it is an Island city that is rapidly becoming the cultural capital of the middle east. The crown jewel amongst the many landmarks in Abu Dhabi is the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Conceived by the founding father of the modern-day UAE, Sheikh Zayed, the mosque can accommodate
more than 40,000 worshippers at a time and is one of the few in the region open to tourists and non-Muslims. With more than 80 marble domes on a roofline held aloft by over 1,000 pillars and punctuated by four 107m-high minarets, Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is a masterpiece of modern Islamic architecture and design. One of the most stunning hotels in the emirate, the Shangri-La Hotel Qaryat Al Beri
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is set on a private stretch of one-kilometer long beach facing the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. The hotel has an architectural style that could be easily misunderstood for an Arabian palace – interiors dripping in warm reds, beige, and gold motifs, artwork, marble, and soaring archways. Each of the spacious rooms and suites at the hotel, including six private four-bedroom villas, has a terrace or balcony making it the
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only hotel with a stunning front-on view of the Grand Mosque. At night, shimmering across the water, its 82 white marble domes are lit up in blue and purple. The hotel features some of the best restaurants and some of the finest cuisines the capital has to offer. With a nod to Shangri-La’s Asian heritage, you’ll get a lesson in the art of Chinese fine dining at the signature restaurant, Shang Palace. Serving authentic Cantonese cuisine in a traditional Chinese setting, you’ll dine on delicacies like Peking duck and Yum Cha while sipping on fragrant teas. For something a little more casual, there is the all-day dining option, Sofra Bld, a soukstyle restaurant that features an impressive array of options including original Emirati, Iranian, Moroccan, Indian and Asian dishes that allow you to discover the spices, aromas and tastes of the region. Voted as one of the
best brunch venues in the city, the specialties on the weekend includes Moroccan tagine, sashimi, rotisserie and carvery, chocolate fountains, fresh fruit and smoothies, selection of fresh bread, bite-sized pastries and cakes. Another hallmark of the Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri is the award-winning CHI, The Spa. While most have the sheen of opulence, CHI, The Spa at Shangri-La, is more sedated with a quiet attention to mindfulness. This is reflected in its dark, rich décor with slate flooring and cherry wood paneling. The spa is committed to the belief that “chi” must flow freely within the body. The Arabian Date Body Wrap, a scrumptious full-body enclosure of dates, coconut milk, almond and vanilla is a must-do. It is best followed by the Arabic Coffee Scrub, another full-body treatment both robust and invigorating. The 8.5-hectare hotel complex provides a wide range of facilities and services for the
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discerning traveler, including Souk Qaryat Al Beri, a contemporary adaptation of a typical Arabian market complete with the traditional abra water-taxis ferrying you round the waterside complex via meandering manmade canals. The architecture of the twolevel souk is a fusion of Arabian and Venetian themes. The abra ferries you from the hotel around the complex and to the souk where you can enjoy a wide array of restaurants and cafés – most of which have stunning Grand Canal and Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque views – as well as many shops and stalls selling everything from jewellery and accessories to clothes, perfumes, antiques, furniture and carpets. The Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri Hotel, offers an impressive variety of services and facilities in a great location and exemplifies luxurious hospitality in what is truly a destination within a destination.
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they’re very hands off. One of the great things about LVMH is that they expect each brand under their umbrella to be independent and original. You can see that with all the brands that are under their management. So even for us, there are not too many changes. I had someone ask me yesterday what makes Cova so different from other cafes. The difference is Cova is like a family. As a management team, we are two sisters who are involved in the business, I am the CEO of the company and my younger sister Daniela looks into the operational side of the company. The acquisition by LVMH has in a way grown our family, so there is someone at the management level at LVMH now with whom we share everything. It has become like an extension of our family. We see Mr.Arnault as an entrepreneur who is very mindful of the authenticity and values of a brand, so he wants to retain the original DNA of the brand. He is very respectful of our traditions and is happy to leave the management as we were, without any change in the structure of our team.
tea. I remember my father was very nervous when we opened, and we must have made thousands of cappuccinos the very first week of training because no one was familiar with the preparation. But that location served as our business guide for Asia. Today, I can say Hong Kong is like our second home. Our first year, we sold maybe 40 panettones for Christmas because at the time no one knew what a panettone was. Now we get more than 50,000 orders for Christmas alone. We have managed to establish the brand well, and today everyone in Hong Kong wants to have the Christmas panettone as a tradition. At a point when we had around 10 locations in Hong Kong, a large Chinese conglomerate acquired the company who had licensed our venues. That sparked our expansion in Asia. Today we have five shops in Shanghai and one in Beijing with two more scheduled to open soon. We have also one in Shenzhen and another one opening soon. We have one in Taipei with another one scheduled to open soon.
You are quite popular in Hong Kong, and you already have quite a substantial presence in other parts of Asia. How did that come to be? More than 25 years ago before the trend of mainstream coffee shops, we had already made an entry into Hong Kong. This happened quite by chance and was not at all a planned decision. We had a Chinese customer who stopped by one day and asked us if we wanted to open a store in Hong Kong. It was around Christmas time, and it was a hectic period for us, so we didn’t really have a chance to entertain the thought. He was back again in January with all the planning and details related to the project just wanting to get an ok from our side. And that was the beginning of our story in Asia. It was not easy doing something like this 25 years ago. Even though Hong Kong was different from China and the rest of Asia in general, not too many people were keen on coffee because everyone was drinking
What is your vision for the Cova Dubai Mall venue and when are you scheduled to open? Cova Milano is the place to see and be seen. People continually coming and going but at the same time a place where you can just sit down and relax. It is more of a destination. Cova is an experience that makes you feel better. We have amazing chocolates, coffee, cakes and panettone of course but its also a lot more than that. It is a combination of many things that come together to create Cova and its an experience in itself to be in the middle of it all. We want the same for Dubai. Everything we are in Milan we would like to replicate here. It’s true that when you are entering a new market, you need to know and respect the tradition of the people and understand their tastes. For the longest time, some our best customers have been from the GCC, and we hope that we can bring them the same experience here. We are aiming to open the Dubai Mall venue before the end of the year.
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DECODING EMIRATI CUISINE Chef Uwe Micheel’s cookbook ‘Flavours of Dubai’ unlocks the secrets of age-old Emirati cuisine.
Last year, timed to coincide with the 45th UAE National Day, Chef Uwe Micheel, directory of kitchens at Radisson Blu Hotel published his first Emirati cookbook titled ‘Flavours of Dubai.’ Chef Uwe, the president of the Emirates Culinary Guild and the assistant vice president of the World Association of Chefs Societies, published the book as a part of his award-winning culinary journey of two decades in the Emirates. In May this year, the book took second place at the 22nd Gourmand World Cookbook Awards in the Best Chef Author category – essentially making it the second-best cookbook to be published in the world last year. The Gourmand World Cookbook Awards represent the highest recognition bestowed for culinary publishing. Founded in 1995 by Edouard Cointreau, a Parisian with a taste for the fine art of gastronomy, every year the awards honor the best food and wine books, printed or digital, as well as food television. Inspired by the spirit of the Olympic Games, the awards are given away at important gastronomical venues around the world with books from 211 countries participating across various categories. ‘Flavours of Dubai’ was chosen from thousands of new cookbooks from 211 countries in 88 categories. In the Best Chef Author category alone, 755 books were submitted. So how did a book about Emirati cuisine go on to win the worlds most coveted award for culinary publishing? To understand the essence of ‘Flavours of Dubai,’ one must understand Chef
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Uwe’s extraordinary journey through various culinary landscapes in the last two decades and his deep understanding of the Emirati culinary scene. For more than 20 years, Chef Micheel Uwe, has called Dubai his adopted home. Born in Germany, young Chef Uwe was always curious about the culinary arts and pursued it as a career path. Starting off as a chef’s apprentice in Hanover, he ultimately worked his way into the Schwarzer Bock Hotel in Wiesbaden in a permanent role. After completing his mandatory army service as a chef, Chef Uwe went on to join the InterContinental Hotels starting off in 1981 in Berlin. Shortly after that, he moved as the chef he partier saucier in the Michelin-star Le Souffle r estaurant in Hyde Park in London. Within three years he relocated to Bahrain and then subsequently to Seoul, South Korea and Yokohama, Japan in line with the opening of new properties for the InterContinental Group. After a period of constant relocations, in 1993 he was appointed the Director of Kitchens at the Radisson Blu Hotel Deira Creek, in the bustling port city of Dubai. Arriving during the period of the commercial renaissance of Dubai, he knew immediately that this was where he would disembark and put down roots. Since his initial landing in Dubai, he has built an impressive list of culinary milestones and awards that read a few pages long. In 2010, his first recipe book ‘Chef at Home’ walked away with 3 Gourmand awards including no.2 in the world for ‘Best First Book.’
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His curiosity about the culinary scene of the Emirates peaked over a period of time due to a steady but straightforward stream of requests from hotel guests for ‘local food.’ With the mainstream Arabic restaurants catering primarily Lebanese or Iranian food, guests in the country would eventually get pointed in that direction. Eventually, Chef Uwe decided to familiarize himself with authentic Emirati cuisine, a journey that wasn’t easy but one that was deeply satisfying. He started off by talking to other chefs who cooked Emirati dishes for hotels as well as for homes and palaces across different Emirates. Collecting information about the history behind Emirati cuisine and traditional recipes turned out to be quite a challenge, made complicated by the fact that younger generations of chefs in the country knew less about Emirati cuisine and more about international flavors popular in Dubai. Emirati cuisine, he would come to realize, was a secret locked deep within the kitchen of local homes.
When the Radisson Blu Dubai Deira Creek decided to open a restaurant concept, he jumped at the chance to pay tribute to the UAE. This would be his chance to introduce Emirati cuisine to every visitor in the country who came asking for a place to experience traditional local cuisine. The restaurant, named ‘Aseelah’ meaning ‘original,’ reflects the authenticity of Emirati cuisine and is a gastronomic experience unparalleled in the city today. Flavours of Dubai is a combination of traditional Emirati recipes as well as modern recipes using traditional Emirati ingredients, providing a historical insight into Dubai’s culinary metamorphosis along with a taste of local culture. From quail and chicken to goat and camel, from seafood to home-grown vegetables and fruits, there’s something Emirati for all palates. ‘Flavours of Dubai’ by Chef Micheel Uwe is a must read for those looking to bring traditional Emirati cuisine into their kitchens and is now available for purchase on Souq.com, Jashanmal, Dubai DutyFree and Aseelah Restaurant.
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CASA DE TAPAS PAELLA Casa de Tapas, serving up some of the most authentic Spanish flavors in Dubai, is the city’s first truly authentic, rustic Spanish tapas restaurant. Located at the picturesque Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club, it encapsulates everything amazing about the Mediterranean cuisine. Casa De Tapas is modeled on the traditional rustic Bodega style venues found in the alleyways of Madrid. The restaurant features classic Spanish dishes from Andalucía to Galicia, ideal for sharing and created by a highly-qualified team of chefs who all hail from Spain. Everything from the paella to tapas, menu to music, and décor to drinks have been created uniquely to offer a little slice of España right here in Dubai.
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Without doubt Casa de Tapas is the home of the best paellas in Dubai, traditional favourites include ‘Paella de Mariscos’ seafood paella and the delectable ‘Paella de Fideua’ which is a unique form of paella made with angel hair pasta instead of rice, shrimp and squid ink which is not available anywhere else in the city. Seafood Paella is one of Casa de Tapas’ signature dishes and an absolute must-try. Originating in the city of Valencia, it is a quintessential rice dish combined with meat, seafood or vegetables; the perfect base for everything delectable and fresh from the sea. The delicious langoustines, mussels, and clams, served over slow-cooked rice take one to a journey through Spain without ever having to leave Dubai.
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FLOOKA’S FISH SHAWARMA Favourite recipes transcend borders. Every culture has its own specialties that are the first to be made to share with family, friends and visitors from far-flung places. They are the recipes that instantly come to mind when one is asked to name a well-loved dish. Flooka offers a unique dining experience of the best in Mediterranean seafood with a Lebanese twist. You can enjoy the daily catch on the terrace with uninterrupted panoramic views of the Arabian Gulf. With branches in Dubai and Abu Dhabi, the ever-popular seafood restaurant offers diners a celebration of Mediterranean food in a stylish, contemporary setting.
Located in Dubai Marina Beach Resort in Dubai and Eastern Mangroves Promenade in Abu Dhabi, Flooka is designed for seafood lovers: from the visual effect of the bar in Dubai, which is made to look like a wooden boat being built, to the ceiling feature of a shoal of fish suspended over diners in Abu Dhabi. Flooka has a number of these dishes, which recreate the aromas, and flavours of home. A popular favourite is the fish shawarma, which leaves your palate in frenzy with all the delicious fresh ingredients kicking in with every mouthful.
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GALVIN DUBAI The Galvin brothers open their second Dubai outlet in the heart of Citywalk. Six months after the opening of their first venue in Dubai, Demoiselle; the Galvin brothers are back in town to launch their second venue, Galvin Dubai. The restaurant is located in the second phase of Citywalk, in an elevated dining area called The Square next to some of Dubai’s latest sensations like Lima Dubai and Toro + Ko. Galvin Dubai is the duo’s second international restaurant and aims to promote Mediterranean cuisine mainly featuring dishes from France, Spain, Italy and even Morocco.
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Created under the supervision of the brothers and Chef Luigi Vespero, who has been working with the Galvins for the last five years, the menu will be centered on simple and fresh ingredients. The team has been working hard to understand the local taste and source some of the region’s best products. This new outlet is more than a restaurant. Spanning over two floors, the brothers designed the location with one concept in mind, convenience. Guests will be able to enjoy tasty meals on the ground floor of the restaurant and can enjoy the rest of their night in the upstairs area where a DJ and a bar is waiting for them.
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MARINA SOCIAL Nestled in the heart of Dubai Marina, Marina Social is a restaurant everyone should try. Created by the acclaimed Michelin-starred British chef Jason Atherton, Marina Social is one of Dubai’s most interesting restaurants. Set against the backdrop of the stunning panoramic views of the waterfront, overlooking the buzzing Dubai Marina, the restaurant offers a wide selection of British-Mediterranean inspired dishes. Some of the restaurant’s highlights includes dishes such as seared yellow fin tuna, avocado puree, salted cucumber and wasabi; duck leg agnolotti, white onion puree, duck crumble and cooking juices and snacks such as goat’s cheese ‘churros’ and truffle honey.
Social sweets include ‘Banoffee Pie’ souffle and caramelised tart tatin of apples. This fusion of flavours and a regularly updated menu are the strength of this restaurant. By focusing on taste and creativity chef Jason Atherton has ensured the longevity of this restaurant. Marina Social’s open kitchen allows guest to watch and interact with the chefs throughout their meal and, upon reservation guests can enjoy the exclusive ‘Social Table’ bespoke tasting menu; an exclusive experience that will take guests on a culinary journey to remember. Marina Social is definitely one of Dubai’s most revered restaurant and it is also the only one in the city which made it to the Diners Club World’s 50 best restaurants.
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MISS LILY’S Miss Lily’s started its journey as a small Caribbean oasis in Soho, New York. It has since become a go-to destination for its delicious island cooking, friendly a staff, sunny vibe, and colorful Caribbean flavor. Since its opening in Dubai in 2016, the restaurant has disrupted the country’s F&B landscape and pushed boundaries by providing guests with an authentic environment previously unavailable in the market. A little more than a year later, more than 75,000 people have visited the venue and roughly 8,000 platters of Jerk Chicken, the restaurant’s signature dish, have been served. On any given night, guests can walk
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into the venue and not only taste, but feel the Caribbean flavor as they sway to the reggae beats alongside the edgy staff. “When we decided that we wanted to bring Miss Lily’s to Dubai, we knew that it would be an educational process,” exclaimed Khalil Dahmash, Partner, Miss Lily’s. “We had to show consumers what was happening outside of the Dubai market. At first, we could see that some guests were skeptical. It is a small venue, and they had to realize that it’s OK to sit close to the people beside you and wait a week for a reservation!”
SIGNÉ · EDITION 27
FIRST MOVERS WILL ALWAYS CHANGE THE WORLD. BUT WHICH ONE? >> Discover our approach at juliusbaer.com/visionary-thinking
Julius Baer is the leading Swiss private banking group and present in some 50 locations worldwide. From Dubai, Frankfurt, Geneva, Guernsey, Hong Kong, London, Lugano, Monaco, Montevideo, Moscow, Nassau, Singapore to Zurich (head office).