Signe - Edition 11 by Signé

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S I G N É

THE SUPERLATIVES FROM SEVERAL WATCHES AT BASELWORLD 2015, INSIDE IS A CONSOLIDATED LIST OF THE CRÈME DE LA CRÈME THAT WERE POPULAR CHOICES AMONGST AFICIONADOS

A CUSTOM OF SUPERIORITY LUXURY HOUSE OF THE MOST REFINED IN WATCHES, JEWELLERY AND ACCESSORIES — CHOPARD IS LED BY VIRTUE OF PRECISION AND RELIABILITY

SPARKS OF MAGIC

To celebrate 100 years of the Panthère, Cartier launches the Royal Collection housing pieces that are all collectibles in their own unique right

AL TAYER INSIGNIA

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An icon just got lArger

THE NAVITIMER 46 mm

CONTENTS

SCHOLARS

036

028 THE MOTOR MAGNATE Remembered for his industrial might as well as an impeccable sense of style, Italian businessman Gianni Agnelli has seen Fiat through several highs and lows

030 THE BRILLIANCE OF TIME De Bethune’s CEO, Pierre Jacques, discusses state-of-the-art ideologies that are used to create chronometers

032 SIGNÉ MAN Fashion icon Elie El Mir lives a life that is filled with qualitative art, lyrics, collectibles and a whole lot of style

036 OUTLINING AN AGENDA General Manager of Easa Saleh Al Gurg Group, Abdulla Fareed Al Gurg, follows simples philosophies to plan strategically, initiate, and follow through

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 11

We are celebrating F. A. Lange’s 200th birthday – by devoting every minute to our watches.

F. A. Lange devoted his entire life to perfecting the mechanical watch.

of the 1815 “200 th Anniversary F. A. Lange”. Endowed with la-

He invented pioneering designs and developed totally new precision

vishly finished traditional elements such as the three-quarter

measuring instruments. Today, we also passionately pursue the per-

plate, the timepiece is reminiscent of the accomplishments of our ac-

fection of every watch down to the smallest detail – for example

claimed role model in watchmaking. www.alange-soehne.com

You are cordially invited to discover the collection at: A. Lange & Söhne Boutique Abu Dhabi · Avenue at Etihad Towers, Tel. +971 2 665 05 88, abudhabi@lange-soehne.ae A. Lange & Söhne Boutique Dubai · Dubai Mall, Tel. +971 4 325 39 23, dubai@lange-soehne.ae

CONTENTS

S AV O I R FA I R E

040

040 NOCTURNAL CLOBBER Being cosy under a quilt in night-time garb doesn’t mean you can’t pull off a dapper look. Indulge in stylish nightwear that’ll take your confidence to a whole new level

044 SCRIPTED BY THE STARS Sharing an innate passion to express their rich heritage, Nadine Kanso and Samer Al Ameen take us through their stunning line of jewellery, work ideologies and more

046 MASTER OF MOVEMENT An expert of horological movement, Jean-François Mojon’s company of ten years, Chronode, continues to reign as the sought-after watchmaker of prestigious timepieces for already established watchmakers

048 MINIATURE MASTERPIECES The time-honoured tradition of enamelling can transform a timepiece into a collectible. Here’s understanding this special art through the lens of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst by A. Lange & Söhne

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 11

CONTENTS

SIGNÉ SELECTION

052 SPREZZATURA Whether a fan of all-blue, pinstripes, or simply a lover of sophisticated shades blended well with form — flip through to view our style guide comprising looks from Hackett London, Zilli and Alfred Dunhill

062 FOR HER

058 THE SUPERLATIVES Out of the several novel timepieces at Baselworld earlier this year, inside is a consolidated list of the top ones that are on our radar for 2015

James Paspaley, Executive Director, and Christine Salter, Creative Director of the Paspaley Group shed light on the pearling industry, a connection to the Middle East, the family’s passion and more

058

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CONTENTS

PHIL ANTHROPY

066 CONSERVATION FOR A CAUSE Italian fashion house Zegna speaks volumes louder than those of impeccable style; Fondazione Zegna is an initiative born from compassion and a magnanimous plan

068 A MONUMENTAL EFFORT Jaeger-LeCoultre, the Swiss watchmaker best known as the master of art and mechanics, has embarked on a restoration project of one of Venice’s most impressive and historical structures

068

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CONTENTS

OBSESSION

090

072 FOR ALL ITS WORTH The Middle East’s dedicated online store for preowned luxury timepieces,Timepiece360, couldn’t have arrived at a better time to present a win-win situation to both the buyer as well as the seller

074 SPARKS OF MAGIC To celebrate 100 years of the Panthère, master jeweller Cartier launches the dazzling Royal Collection

088 OFF TO A FLYING START Pioneer of aviation timepieces, Breitling, puts an infallible distress beacon on the wrist with its new generation of the Emergency wristwatch

090 A NOD TO THE SARTORIAL WORLD With Savile Row tailoring at the centre of its narrative, Matthew Vaughn’s espionage film Kingsman: The Secret Service proves that clothes really do make the man

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 11

Nav igatiN g N ew water s Sailing the Dhow, Abu Dhabi, UAE

a s e N s e o f p l ac e . ro s e wo o d a b u d h a b i . + 9 7 1 ( 0 ) 2 8 1 3 5 5 5 5 | abudhabi.reservations@rosewoodhotels.com | rosewoodhotels.com

CONTENTS

H E R I TAG E

104

096 A CUSTOM OF SUPERIORITY Founded by a mastermind at the young age of 24, luxury watch, jewellery and accessories brand Chopard presents a story that is led by virtue of precision and reliability

104 MEMOIRS OF A MUSE Chanel Misia revives the tale of two friends who delved deep into the avant-garde art scene of Paris during the Roaring Twenties

108 SUCCESS BY DESIGN As Tumi, one of the most iconic luggage brands, enters its 40th year of existence, the company remains closely associated with its core values — simplicity, sophistication and innovation

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 11

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CONTENTS

L A D O L C E V I TA

112 A CASE IN POINT A watch case, worthy of the contents it was crafted for, is a luxurious indulgence. However, these protective cases are also perfect to keep your fine timepieces unscathed at all times

114 HAUTE SOCIÉTÉ Take a peek into the new Ulysse Nardin boutique, the beautiful Spanish Meliá Doha hotel, and a spa that promises quality treatments with a relaxed environment — the Jazz Lounge Spa

114

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SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 11

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SCHOLARS IDENTITY BEHIND THE BRAND

Behind all of the best brands and companies across the globe stand men and women with pioneering personalities and unique success stories. In this section, we take an in-depth look into the lives of the bold few who have shaped the world of luxury as we know it

SCHOLARS

T H E M O T O R M A G N AT E

The motor magnate Gianni Agnelli, one of Italy’s most powerful businessmen, saw the country’s premier car manufacturer, Fiat, through thick and thin. He is remembered for his industrial might as much as he is for his impeccable style

Every once in a while, there comes along an internationally renowned figure with limitless ambition. And, when one refers to a 20th-century charismatic personality, who applied a ‘grow or die’ entrepreneurial philosophy to his Italian-born company, the person’s identity couldn’t be

several times across its century-old history. But Gianni, thanks to his influential ties with the layman and politician alike, saw the company through thick and thin as it became increasingly intertwined with Italy’s financial, industrial and political landscapes. By opening factories in Russia (then Soviet Union) and

most often a bespoke Caraceni, he wore his tie askew on a button-down shirt and his watch — often an OMEGA or Patek Philippe, over his shirt cuff. Gianni’s command over style wasn’t just recognised by the Italians; he was a style icon to the international fashion world at large. Even today, it’s unlikely for

any more unambiguous. Gianni Agnelli, who ran Fiat, one of Italy’s most famous exports to date, continues to be remembered for his influential role in putting Italy on the motoring map and beyond. Gianni, who headed the company between 1966 and 1996, might not have been Founder of Fiat, but he certainly was responsible for leading his family business into

South America, he expanded its reach. And, when a strike, organised by the trade union, was blocking Fiat’s production in the 1980s, Agnelli succeeded in holding a march of 40,000 workers, who managed to re-enter the factories. This day also marked the demise of the power of Italian trade unions. By the time the ‘90s had arrived, Fiat was contributing to five per cent of Italy’s Gross Domestic

a best-dressed men’s list to exclude him. Perhaps, his carefully cultivated sartorial choices stemmed from a life of extravagance, enjoyed in his younger days at his chalet in St Moritz. Or, maybe it was his link-ups with famous women such as Anita Ekberg, Pamela Harriman and Rita Hayworth. One thing’s for sure: his other famous nickname “the great rake of the Riviera” was a reflection of his

a more lucrative arena. It was his grandfather, Giovanni Agnelli, who had set the company in motion on sensing an opportunity in a predominantly horse-carriage-driven world. Giovanni invested in a company named Fabbrica Italiana di Automobili Torino in 1898 and was soon elected President after the company became known as Fiat a year later. He went on to lead Fiat from the 30th to third position in the post-WWI Italian industrial scenario. Fiat’s success in dominating the international motor market and the resulting wealth of the Agnelli family still remains unmatchable. Gianni, who was born in Turin, may have enjoyed a carefree, rather extravagant lifestyle in the 1950s and 1960s, but there was no looking back once he took over the reins from his grandfather. While the young Gianni was first appointed as Fiat’s General Manager in 1963, it was only in 1966 — after the death of Giovanni — that the 45-yearold assumed his new position as the new Chairman of Fiat. Fiat’s dynasty has been tinged with stories

Profit as Europe’s leading car manufacturer with a 15 per cent share of the market and comprised companies such as Alfa Romeo, Lancia, Maserati, Ferrari and Piaggio. Gianni was one of Italy’s most influential figures, not just for the role that he played in the late-20th century Italian economy, but also for his inimitable personality. He was admired as much as he was feared, known for his sense of humour as much as he was for his wit. Business journalist Jennifer Clark described Gianni as “intelligent, charming and curious” in her first-person account book, Mondo Agnelli: Fiat, Chrysler, and the Power of a Dynasty. Gianni was many things to many people. He came to be known by the moniker L’Avvocato, or the lawyer, because of his degree in law. Others lovingly called him the “uncrowned king of Italy.” Still others saw him as a business tycoon with an impeccable sense of style. Although slightly eccentric, his sartorial inclinations portrayed an exquisite taste. He made the difficult seem easy and effortless, representing the Italian art of appearing to not

sartorial flair and high living. At 32, Gianni got married and had a son, Edouardo, who seemed to favour the mystic arts over motoring. Gianni gave up trying to groom his only son as heir to Fiat, and instead readied his youngest brother’s son to take over. Even when Gianni stepped down from his position at Fiat, he continued to make key decisions, choosing to stay on as Honorary Chairman until his death. In the early 2000s, Gianni expressed interest in General Motors, which resulted in an agreement under which the two companies became sporadically involved. Sailing, horses, fast cars and skiing excited Gianni throughout his lifetime. He was the Owner of Italian football club Juventus, besides being a loyal fan. At the time of his death in 2003, the Agnelli Empire — estimated at $46.5 billion — had diversified into a food producer, newspaper publisher, insurance company and department store chain, among other businesses. When a powerful industrialist, like Gianni, comes around, he certainly has it in him to intentionally, and

of questionable moves and controversies that spanned its rise and fall, not once, but

care about one’s appearance, or sprezzatura. Almost always spotted in a classic suit,

unintentionally, set in motion all the things he set out to do.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 11

Italy, December 1968: Giovanni Agnelli with his family at Villa Bona

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 11

SCHOLARS

THE BRILLIANCE OF TIME

The Brilliance of Time In pursuit of striking the right balance amongst the elements needed to craft a beautiful timepiece, De Bethune’s CEO Pierre Jacques discusses state-of-the-art ideologies used to create chronometers with aesthetic and technical aspects that merge into a unique whole that is a marriage between form and function

Based on a determinedly avant-garde concept of conventional watchmaking, the Manufacture Horlogère De Bethune was founded in 2002. Not doing more, but instead doing better, and drawing inspiration from the past in order to constantly reinvent, De Bethune is inspired by several centuries of history. The company, along with

focuses on luxury watches, and that’s where his plan sprouted from. Jacques believes that De Bethune’s concepts and philosophies are extremely simple: to produce the best watches possible, regardless of the cost. De Bethune wants to achieve the best in terms of detail, quality, technique and innovation. A perfect

to a certain level. The De Bethune man is self-confident and fills in the aforementioned criteria; he holds a high regard for innovation, and has a sense of aesthetic, too. “Be yourself and don’t deviate from that,” says Jacques confidently. “In any business, if you really do your best, regardless of the cost, in the end you are sure to meet with

their dynamic CEO, Pierre Jacques, forms an efficient triumvirate that is boosting De Bethune, and its steadily modern creations towards an even brighter future. Starting his career as Founder, Owner and Publisher of GMT magazine, from 2000-2007, Pierre Jacques sold his company in the year of 2007, and went through a transitory period until 2009. He acquired the position of Manager at

watch, Jacques explains, requires certain elements: innovation, because there’s no sense in repeating what’s done several times already. “We’re just a 13-year-old company, and have shown various innovations already. Tradition is another essential element to incorporate. Before you break a rule, you have to master it. Tradition is very important; it will help you connect to your heritage, and

success. People will recognise your work, and appreciate it, too. Jacques is a strong believer in focusing on something you want to achieve, and following your instincts. De Bethune isn’t a “strategy brand” — the company simply has a passion to bring forward the best. Always providing quality, and never compromising, has brought the company a long way. A De Bethune alligator watchstrap

Les Ambassadeurs, located on rue du Rhône in Geneva, a multi-brand boutique where one may discover the latest of what jewellery and watch collections have to offer. Jacques was also President of the Geneva watchmaking Grand Prix for a couple of years. Nothing in particular prompted Jacques to step foot into the high-end watch industry. He says that it was an innate and instinctive interest that grew further each day. “Circumstances in life made me choose this very field. I didn’t decide, in the start, that I want to work in the watch industry. When I look at an old photograph of myself at the age of 14, I can see that I was wearing a Zenith watch,” says Jacques. On graduating from university, he developed a keen interest in the publishing business. “I love the entire process that starts from scratch with a flat plan, then going to print, and of course seeing the final product. It is quite a satisfying feeling.” It was these passionate emotions that led to Jacques starting his own publishing company. Back in the day, he says that weren’t too many watch magazines,

of course, design is everything. You can have the nicest and most powerful engine in a timepiece, but design plays a major role,” says Jacques. So it seems the guidelines are clear — a combination and perfect balance of innovation, tradition and design, and that’s your secret formula for success right there. One would be able to appreciate the art of horology or a timepiece only once the detailing of watchmaking is comprehended

is a great example — there’s alligator skin, not only on the front side, but also the part that rests on the wearer’s skin. This ensures comfort and smoothness. The cost may be double than that of something otherwise, but the brand believes that customers pay for quality, and that’s what matters. “Another example of our quality work is the sapphires we use. Most watch brands will carry out a treatment of the stone on one side, whereas we do it on both sides,” explains Jacques. De Bethune surely knows how to pay attention to detailing, which is what has boosted their platform on a major scale. Nine patens, 17 world-firsts and 15 inhouse calibers over the span of just 13 years proves that research and development is a strong formula for success. “We are 60 people in the company, and produce more or less 350-400 watches annually. Out of these 60 people, only seven work in the field of R&D,” says Jacques. He explains that the consumer reaction has been quite good. People in the region like exclusivity and want to wear quality, so De Bethune definitely has

so there wasn’t much competition either. Jacques saw a niche for a magazine that

room to exhibit. “The region has couture, money and passionate people.”

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MAN

In a Musical

Fashion Not just mastering the skill of combining elements such as water, lighting and music to form wondrous and heavenly creations, Elie El Mir’s life is filled with a huge amount of art, lyrics and great style

Whilst pulling up to the white-smeared villa, one does not envisage the variety of hues and splashes of happy colours they’d be greeted with behind the closed doors of house number 49. The remarkably decorated home of Elie El Mir reflects his personality to a great degree — fashionable, joyous, and easy-going. El Mir was born in the Mediterranean nation of Lebanon, and worked towards a degree in Civil Engineering from the American University of Beirut. His love for melody and musical notes sowed interesting ideas for a career path, and eventually, worked well in his favour. He developed a software that combined the elements of water, lighting and music — and this amalgam gave birth to the most unique musical fountains one could come across today. Also known as Elio Dicaprio, and awarded on several occasions as one of UAE’s top male style icons, El Mir’s sense of fashion is certainly eccentric, yet glamorous. Having said that, behind his style, he holds a remarkable creativity and exceptional artistic talent in designing musical fountains and garden landscaping. This profession led him into a whole new venture, reflecting an innate passion. El Mir made an immense revolution since his arrival to Dubai in 2005 within the industry of musical water fountains and garden landscaping. He was an integral part of a waterscaping project for HH Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, President of UAE and Ruler of Abu Dhabi, in Al Ain Palace. El Mir further cultivated his passion, and success, by creating innovative and exceptional water features to fit every person’s home and dream.

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A collection of collectibles “Aside from my distinctive profession, I’m a passionate and avid collector of the arts and crafts,” El Mir explains. He has acquired various pieces through countless travels around the world, and most of his collectibles — be it from a limited or numbered edition — are carefully selected with passion. In addition to his sport and vintage car collection, he has sprawling closets bursting with style — sunglasses, hats, jackets, boots, and more. El Mir owns limited collections of Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Ralph Lauren, Etro, Roberto Cavalli and many others. “Who knows, maybe some day, a leading fashion house could request me to exhibit my collectibles in a museum. I continue to dream big,” he says. The closest collectible to this gentleman’s heart would be a gold Patek Philippe 1947 timepiece, which has a royal engraving at the back of it; this particular model exists in only 25 pieces, world over. “This shall be a family heirloom,” says El Mir. Three pieces from his closet that he simply cannot live without, you may ask? A bow tie that belonged to his father made by Carven in France, a Roberto Cavalli black suit, and a pair of authentic cobra-head boots that have apparently only made it to Michael Jackson’s and his shoe collections. A personal touch El Mir’s humble abode is painted in a white base and embellished with vibrant splashes of colours — a six-metre tree with verdant green indoor grass and a lot of coloured Murano glass sculptures in the house. El Mir says he dresses his home in the same daring colours he likes to wear. An ardent lover of great art, too, El Mir once bought a painting in France that he still holds extremely close to his heart. “The painter was very attached to the artwork and was hesitant on selling it, but he said he saw me in it, in some capacity, and then accepted to sell it to me.” The sculptures created by the talented El Mir are a limited series of horses, which will soon be revealed in a private exhibition

as they always expose fantastic pieces of art in very selective and limited editions. Not only does El Mir have a creative side for the arts, but also a voice to provide happiness to karaoke enthusiasts. Ever since his schooldays, he was always distinguished while singing and won many prizes. “Playing music and singing were ways for me to express myself,” he says. With the new wave of karaoke back then, he realised that he could add joy to people

Kenny Rogers (which he’s extremely happy about). Some of his favourites include Tom Jones, Elvis Presley and Charles Aznavour.

to collectors. One of his most liked art gallery would have to be Pegas Art Gallery, he says,

around him because they seemed to like the way he performed; frequently, he was called

a tranquil walk along the beach — barefoot, of course.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 11

A gentleman’s sundown The perfect evening for El Mir would be booking a table on a sandy beach somewhere, receiving his lady in his white convertible vintage Rolls-Royce 1985, offering her a red flower, lounging in a white linen outfit, sipping on rich wine, and taking

SCHOLARS

OUTLINING AN AGENDA

Outlining an Agenda Not only has Abdulla Fareed Al Gurg played a chief role in the family business, but he needed to prove himself before. Following a simple philosophy to plan strategically, initiate, and follow through, Al Gurg certainly has the apt leadership qualities

Under the tenure of Abdulla Al Gurg, Group General Manager of Easa Saleh Al Gurg Group LLC, the Group has

development. “I did that in 2009, and it was at that time that the family business was going through a dynamic shift; it felt like the right

listen, and always keep a smile on your face, whether you maybe wrong or right. In the private sector, one has to be patient and

expanded its footprint in the GCC region — in the Sultanate of Oman, Qatar and the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. Easa Saleh Al Gurg Group LLC is a multi-divisional conglomerate with a basket of 24 companies. The group’s diverse product and business interests predominantly include retail, building and construction, industrial and joint ventures. Al Gurg has also played a chief role in leading the

time to join the business and implement what I had learned,” Al Gurg explains. Not so keen on returning to the business as he feels he was doing quite well with where he was, but his grandfather, who is the first generation, realised that time was not to their benefit unfortunately, and that the family needed to start working on succession planning. “My grandfather set up a structure with which

humble. If not, you may repel people, and consequently never make any chips in your pocket. In the government sector, you can be as relentless as you want.” There’s a fixed system in the government sector, and people have to abide by the rules, he explains. “Our government is different from others; it’s extremely fast-paced and dynamic. So, when I came into the family business at first,

activation of a Treasury Management System, helping establish the first in-house bank in the GCC region. He is an active Board member within the group’s joint ventures, namely Al Gurg Fosroc LLC, Siemens LLC, Arabian Explosives, Al Gurg Smollan and Al Gurg Unilever. His leadership has enabled the team to focus on enhancing their skills via a dedicated Learning & Development Centre, and his views on entrepreneurship and family businesses are constantly sought out in Leadership forums. Acquiring Marketing and Management degrees from the American University of Sharjah, Al Gurg went onto working with the government after; a post he was recruited for was one with HH Sheikh Rashid Establishment for Young Business Leaders. Being one of the set-up team members, it was quite a challenge in the early days. Prior to that, Al Gurg worked with Tejari.com, the B2B market place, after which he moved to Dubai Holding, spent nearly 10 years with the government, and slowly and gradually curved onto the career path leading him to become

the second generation, which would be my mother and two aunts, could move forward. I came in to support the business aspirations of the second generation, and to support them in new exploring new ventures areas,” says Al Gurg. Moving from government to the golf sector was still a familiar zone for him as it was Dubai Holding itself. “I have never played a game of golf, and don’t even know how to play it. I didn’t construct anything besides my home in Barsha. I was provided with 3.4 billion dirhams to construct this big development and we made significant progress of it; I managed to build 65-70 per cent of it until the crisis hit, and it was all within cost, all on time and was quite unique,” he explains. “I’m sure there are plans to take it forward. It was a challenge, and everybody was there to support me. I can never forget the friends I have there who stood by me always.” Al Gurg explains that there’s quite a difference between a government entity and the private sector. “In a government job, the number one rule is that

everyone told me to calm down and get off the horse. For the first two years, they wanted me to just watch and observe how business was executed.” Barring the corporate office, Al Gurg has over 35 people reporting to him. He believes he has a good team. The head office includes lot of functional members, including the finance, accounts, legal, quality and business excellence sectors. “We have an ERP system, which is connected to the management structure. From a financial and an operational point of view, when it comes to numbers or facts, I can see them instantly and live from my iPad, so whatever else has to happen, is all discussion-based or initiative-based. We are a very modern company because everything is interconnected. I can log onto my iPad, go on my Dashboard and view daily sales, stock and hourly transactions that are ongoing in the companies.” The firm has invested a lot in technology, in the systems, and in the valuable ERP system. The Treasury Management System was a case study when the company had over

CEO or Project Director of The Tiger Woods Dubai, which is the the luxury golf and resort

you should not have an ego. Also, always use your ears more than your mouth. Always

270 bank accounts. “We noticed that some accounts are positive and some are negative.

SIGNÉ ◊ EDITION 11

SCHOLARS

OUTLINING AN AGENDA

The popular home furnishing and accessories franchise of IDdesign, in the Mall of the Emirates, is exclusively owned and operated by the ESAG

I wondered why we were paying unnecessarily to the banks in overdraft and petty money when we had cash flow somewhere else. So I started doing daily cash pooling, and closed over 110 bank accounts; the banks obviously didn’t like that as suddenly there was a decline in interest payments.” An important lesson Al Gurg learned over the years is to step back and look at the bigger picture sometimes. “When I was working with the government, I always thought of myself as an independent business person, and never looked at myself as a submissive employee.” Even as an employee back then, Al Gurg was always looking at bringing in new ideas to the table. Entrepreneurship, according to him, is not only about starting your own business, it can also develop while being employed. Entrepreneurship is coming up with ideas, taking initiatives and processing thoughts. “You can be an employee and an entrepreneur at the same time. Our family business has a very stable and routine process. You have

firm — they’re constantly developing new concepts and new businesses. Not only looking to grow their retail opportunities, the company is also aiming to increase their product portfolio. In Al Gurg’s view, the current design industry in the UAE is maturing and becoming more competitive. There are a lot of creative people emerging; the rest just have to keep up their creativity levels because people are becoming more aware of design each day. “I think the glitch is the concept of boutique. There is no small outlet, which shows the concept-store idea or something which is limited edition and that you have only five pieces of production of that made.” The group has two upcoming concepts when it comes to design, which will be announced in June — one is on the medium-to-high-scale furniture design and the other one is on the lines of accessories. Dubai is becoming many different things: a capital of luxury, of trade, and so on. It’s

good step forward. Al Gurg believes it is an access card for young designers who want to emerge in this region, and thinks it needs to be affiliated with a world-class fashion base or design-based firms. “I think the next step for Dubai Design District is to create the content around it.” The Easa Saleh Al Gurg (ESAG) Charity Foundation has assets, which the family has designed to support the growth and development of the less fortunate in sectors of healthcare, education, social (such as marriages), and to build required infrastructure to help people build houses. In the past four and a half years, the charity has supported over 30,000 cases, and they intend to do more. Al Gurg believes that their company is on an organic and sustainable growth mode, and is in the process of growing in a very calculative manner. “This year itself, we will launch two companies. We are looking at two major acquisitions, which we are yet to announce so I think what we are

to create creativity,” says Al Gurg. There are a lot of big-scale plans coming up by the

creating a platform for all types of designers to create a hub of design, and that’s a very

doing now is investing in a phase to grow our assets and move upward,” says Al Gurg.

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SAVOIR FAIRE The finely crafted A fine piece of artistry is made to be admired and cherished, but the hours of craftsmanship that go into making it is what makes it truly special. In this section, some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest artisans share their secrets behind the creations of one-of-a-kind masterpieces

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NOCTURNAL CLOBBER

Nocturnal Clobber As the year progresses, evoke the debonair dash of nightwear and indulge in sumptuous dressing gowns and pyjama sets. Just because you’re wrapped in a blanket and dressed in your night-time garb, doesn’t mean you can’t pull of a snazzy, dapper look IMAGE COURTESY : L A PERL A UOMO

The clock has struck two in the afternoon, warm golden rays stream into the mansion, and Mr Hugh Hefner is playing

COMFORT Cotton loungewear is a brilliant option for those who prefer to dose

cards at his coffee table. Not such a surprise, Hefner is still in his red silk pyjamas, a black smoking jacket, black slippers and white socks. “I’ve got about 200 pairs of silk pyjamas in 20 colours, and velvet or satin smoking jackets, all custom-made,” says the legend famous for making red silk pyjamas a statement today. One of the satin pyjama sets in the movie The Great Gatsby was the most expensive and time-consuming sartorial project of the movie. Doris Day and Rock Hudson confidently sport night-time looks in Lover Come Back (1961). Tinseltown’s stars are made to look like they just woke up…for a reason. Until a certain point in time, the only men strutting pyjama suits were silk-robed Downtown Abbey kinds and five-year-old boys in Luke Skywalker onesies. Today, finally, there’s swish sleepwear available that will up your charisma where and when it matters the most. What one may wear at night can be extremely important as any daytime attire, especially if you have an option of designs that offer more than just the standard checks and stripes. Pyjamas certainly represent a sophisticated choice, and for some, they render a sense of nostalgia. To add to the various other reasons, pyjamas spell comfort in a highly hectic world. Quit sleepwalking through a sartorial twilight zone and get down to ensuring a fashion statement with every piece you wear. Your 1500-thread-count sheets deserve to be matched with great nightwear that’s comfortable, breathable and extremely stylish. There is a sea of options out there today — be it the ideal wardrobe piece for raiding the fridge at 2 am or hosting a bunch of your bachelor friends on a Friday night. Hit the sack in style by following a few simple

off au naturel. Make sure you choose a brand that allows little additional length in the arms and legs, as pure cotton will shrink over time. A pair of loose-fitting cotton boxer shorts or briefs is a good option, too. Offering great comfort, they’re easy to maintain as well. For maximum comfort, opt for the ones with a lax-fitting elastic waistband and a closed-off or button-front tab. Boxer shorts are perfect for everyday wear — be it within the walls of your home, in a school dormitory, or whilst vacationing in the Maldives. The sober can choose to wear for monotones or simple patterns, whereas the not-so-faint-hearted would be more than glad to pull off an electric blue with baby pink stripes. Boxer shorts go best with a tank top or a t-shirt – depending on the climatic conditions or temperature one’s in.

rules, and feel to experiment once you’ve mastered them.

front, side slits and a chest pocket is ideal if you’re going for a more

STYLE Multi-stripe dressing gowns, neutral silk ones, funky motifs and so much more — there are several fashion houses today that offer the best of nocturnal fashion. A modish robe thrown onto a pair of boxers makes you look like you’ve won some big bucks at he casino. Go for white teamed with beige, or navy blue with black, grey or even orange. When it comes to style, colours totally depend on what you can carry off — there aren’t any precise boundaries. In the balmy days of summer, put on a pair of cotton night pants or pyjamas with a light tee. Go for something that will offer the feel of flannel with the luxury of silk. A shirt featuring a button-down

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formal look. Pair that with pants giving a sense of comfort, having a straight but roomy cut. Summer days call for light and neutral colours and combinations. On colder nights, warm up with soft, polyfleece pyjamas — something that’s perfect to wear while at the luxury cabin in the woods, or while stargazing on the deck of your yacht. Classic sets of pyjama suits may look a tad bit conservative, but that’s the look you should aim for while entertaining people at your home. Sink into the couch, smoking a smooth and full-bodied cigar whilst showing off your pyjama-set traditional look. In general, you want to keep things straight when it comes to fabrics for the night. If you don’t want to mix things up, and like to play it safe, go for linen. It’s a super fabric and is extremely classy — it’s got a bit of texture to it, and is till light and airy. It’s time to take

the perfect suit and grooming himself to perfection, but a passionately accomplished man looks amazing even while lounging around his house, sipping on a cocktail in the backyard, and yes, while sleeping, too!

your style game to another level. Any man can spruce things up and look like a baller during the day, after spending a while picking out

cotton. Matched with dominating trouser bottoms, they emphasise relaxed elegance.

LA PERLA — SPRING/SUMMER 2015 The launch of a new concept of loungewear for men by La Perla has created quite the boom amongst the suave gentlemen of today, who care to dress to impress even whilst in bed. The ideology behind this collection is a sophisticated and refines mix-and-match of various textiles and silhouettes characterised by a brilliant sartorial philosophy. Among the key pieces in the collection are night robes and kimonos in raffia fabric or jacquard silk, worn over long gilets in subtle and transparent fabrics such as silk chiffon, cupro and silk/

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S C R I P T E D BY T H E S TA R S

Scripted by the Stars Sharing common desire to express their rich heritage through jewellery, Nadine Kanso and Samer Al Ameen, the duo behind the men’s collection of Bil Arabi, let us in on their work ideologies, aesthetics and more

A popular face on the art circuit in Dubai, Nadine Kanso is the talent

Al Ameen. There’s certainly a lot of identity in Bil Arabi jewellery.

our target audience. At the launch of Bil Arabi, which was held at China Grill, we had a lot of

behind the ornate jewellery line Bil Arabi. The designer, who has always been in great favour of using Arabic calligraphy in women’s pieces, has now collaborated with Samer Al Ameen to launch the first ever men’s line by Bil Arabi. The collection includes bracelets, necklaces, cufflinks, and rings in silver. The beauty of product design, according

With each piece handcrafted by talented artisans, Bil Arabi’s jewellery is made-tomeasure and brilliantly bespoke. There may be two pieces with a similarity of 99 per cent, but never a 100. It does feel special to have something made exclusively for oneself. “Eventually, when our line develops, we’ll have different kinds of designs and elements to

non-Arabs who were happy to place orders with us. Of course, the Arabs are always our main target audience,” says Al Ameen. The label exemplifies sleek craftsmanship, and so the audience varies according to the way people decide to wear the jewellery, according to Al Ameen. He tells us that one can wear a single alphabet, or combine it with a few

to Al Ameen, lies in diversity. Having an affinity towards fashion and jewellery, he reckoned it would be intriguing to collaborate with his cousin Nadine, and that’s how they created Bil Arabi’s masculine range together. The brand name translates into ‘in Arabic’, and heavily draws influence from the Arabic language. “I have my own line for women, so it was an amazing idea to create the men’s

introduce — maybe the combination of letters to form words or names. This will add to the whole journey. Engraving is also something we may look at. As of today, we have had diamond settings done on a few pieces. Some people have asked for black diamonds, which is rare, but turned out beautiful on the pieces. We’ve used sapphires for dots or glyphs above alphabets as well,” explains Kanso.

more to form a name — it’s all in the way you choose to wear it. The style can be toned up or toned down, made more fun or classic, all depending on the way it’s presented. “It’s nice to have people wanting to be creative, but I always say that you need to have your own identity, no matter what kind of a designer you may be – fashion, jewellery or product. At the end of the day, you don’t

line with Samer,” says Kanso. In addition to being connected by family ties, the two have been great friends for very long, shared their work with one another, and provided opinions on the same. There were always thoughts that were reciprocated between the two when it came to work ideologies, and so the collaboration happened rather organically. Lebanese and Beirut-raised, both Al Ameen and Kanso are extremely attached to their culture and heritage. Al Ameen loves Arabic calligraphy and agrees with Kanso when she says: “If you look at the alphabets in the Arabic script, they’re very beautiful and don’t need much modification when used for a piece of jewellery.” While several men today like to flaunt rings, pendants and chains, Al Ameen says has a soft corner only for bracelets. On scrutinising the men’s jewellery market today, which may be inundated with labels, one will come to realise that Bil Arabi certainly stands apart. “There’s a lot of similarity the brands present today, using beads, leather or something else. What we’re offering is

Al Ameen’s design aesthetics and philosophies complement Kanso’s as they both have a lot of common ground — be it their tastes in fashion, food, books or even furniture. “It’s easy to work with somebody you understand because you get how they look at things. Especially when it comes to design, there are certain ethics that you like and if somebody agrees with that or sees it the same way, it’s a big plus point,” says Al Ameen. So that’s how the collaboration has given birth to such a unique concept. It could be anything that inspires this duo, and gives them food for thought. “We don’t envision a specific audience wearing our work; whoever wants something different is

want people to see a work of yours and realise they have seen it elsewhere. Having one’s own character is important. Even if it’s harder to do, but this is where one will excel,” says Kanso. In short, one’s design is his or her character and identity, and that should always shine through an individual’s work. Kanso and Al Ameen frequent Le Petite Maison for meals, and if the beach is their momentary calling, it’s Royal Mirage. “China Grill, where we had our brand’s launch, is a fairly new place that’s opened here in Dubai. I have to say the food and service are both truly amazing,” says Al Ameen. “When the event ended, I asked the Manager for something to eat, but the kitchen was closed. He organised for a duck salad to be made especially for me,” adds Kanso. Evolution is a given. There’s going to be many more different steps and different things to anticipate from Bil Arabi. “Trends change, new materials are introduced, and if you want to be on top of the game as a designer, you have to be up-to-date with what’s going on. Producing and introducing things before

something that doesn’t exist in the market, neither in the Arab world, nor abroad,” says

anybody else is of utmost importance,” Al Ameen concludes.

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MASTER OF MOVEMENT

MASTER OF MOVEMENT Jean-François Mojon, an expert in horological movements, along with his company of ten years, Chronode, continue to reign as the sought-after watchmaker of prestigious timepieces for established watchmakers

It is rare to find a master watchmaker, who can blend watchmaking wisdom of the past with a progressive outlook.

of international timepiece brands such as Omega, IWC and the Swatch Group. Unable to execute his own innovations and ideas

with them.” Chronode is evidently not in the business to simply sell watches because one of its key values, says Mojon, is to offer quality

Centuries-old timepiece houses rarely ever change their school of thought, not that there’s any need to, while many young watch brands seem to be opting for something of a ‘new-age’, futuristic approach to keep up with our technologically advanced times. Jean-François Mojon is one of those rare geniuses that belongs to the new generation of watchmakers. Mojon, with his deep-seated

during a latter stage in his career, Mojon went on to start his own company. The first watch launched under the Chronode banner was the Urban Jürgensen Calibre UJS08, in 2005, that was soon followed by collaborations with at least ten other brands, including the likes of Harry Winston, MB&F, HYT, Breva and MCT. It makes one wonder whether the coming together of

handmade, customised products and to work on long-standing partnerships with its clients. Chronode itself has a small team of employees, not exceeding 70 at the moment. While the company creates every part of a watch in terms of design and movement, it doesn’t necessarily produce every part, explains Mojon, adding that Chronode buys many parts from the company’s key suppliers

passion for the art of complications, founded Chronode in Le Locle, Switzerland, in 2005. But the company does not create watches for itself; rather, it specialises in developing timepieces, highly complicated movements and innovative displays for high-end watch brands on the basis of partnerships. Mojon’s love for mechanics and engineering can be traced back to his childhood. His father, who specialised in manufacturing tools for watch parts, would show him the workings of some watch components, and young Mojon, always fascinated with the little parts of a watch, was amazed at the fact that it was able to function and tell the time of day and night. He later went on to earn a diploma in engineering and micro technology at Le Locle’s Technicum Inspired by nature, architecture, astronomy and kinematics, or the study of movement, Mojon is inarguably the master of horological movements and complications, taking a purely engineering approach even during the design stage. In fact, he joined the watchmaking industry when he began

two strong brands could possibly give rise to a clash between the two. According to Mojon, “The first and most important thing for us at Chronode is to have a good connect with the people we are working with. That’s what really matters. It’s how we really get down to working

in Le Locle. In 2012, Chronode bought over two production companies by acquiring a majority stake in both Compagnie Horlogère Locloise (CHL) and DMP Horlogerie SA. This, according to Mojon, was aimed to strengthen Chronode’s position as an independent movement maker. There have been several key pieces that have really stood out in the history of Chronode. And, the company didn’t even know it was possible if it was able to make some of these pieces in the beginning, shares Mojon. The Opus X for Harry Winston is one of them. The timepiece, launched in 2010, is a digital-mechanical watch that imagines the shape of time through an innovative mechanism, which assumes the continuous movement of the planets. “It was a complicated project in itself”, says Mojon, explaining that the real challenge was to attain the perfect mix of design, emotion and technique. The MB&F Legacy Machine N°1, launched in 2011, was yet another key piece for the brand that has incidentally collaborated with

working on research and development of movements and complications for a number

Maximilian Büsser’s company on more than one occasion. This, reasons Mojon, was simply

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because of the fact that both brands were on the same wavelength. Chronode has been a long-standing collaborator with Cyrus, ever since the Geneva-based watchmaker launched in 2009 and became a shareholder in Mojon’s company. Ruben Mira, the new CEO of Cyrus, explains that the family behind Cyrus has always been passionate about watches, adding that the brand was something that

wanted to build a strong brand, they would need to have a special relationship with a small manufacturer. This was when the joint venture with Mojon began, and according to Mira, who joined the company in 2014, was a partnership that has been a success. Cyrus’s Klepcys collection, for instance, includes inhouse movements developed and produced by Chronode, and has been received well in Singapore, England and Spain, where the

Basel World later this month, including its first alarm calibre and a new chronograph with no pushers, both developed by Chronode. This year, as Chronode celebrates its 10th anniversary, the house continues to be as busy as ever, working on several projects in the line-up, including those with past collaborators such as Urban Jürgensen, MB&F and HYT. In fact, since its inception, not a year has gone by in which the company

they wanted to create for the last decade. The family was also once told that if they

brand launched last year. One can expect a slew of new announcements from Cyrus at

wasn’t engrossed in developing a new and innovative timepiece.

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M I N I AT U R E M A S T E R P I E C E S

Miniature Masterpieces The time-honoured tradition of enamelling, an intricate decorative technique, turns timepieces into collectibles. Here’s looking at this fine art through the lens of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst by A. Lange & Söhne

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The rare breed of enamellers also come with a good deal of patience to be able create a miniature piece of dial art through a binocular microscope

with

cleanliness during the process. The inclusion

an enamelled dial is much like a soughafter piece of art, hard to get a grasp of, but rare enough to find a quick buyer. It is uncommon to chance upon these coveted pieces strapped to wrists, let alone see them advertised or retailed in stores. Even the most nuanced watch collector might treat such a sighting as rare and valuable, given their small production count. The intricate

timepiece

of even the smallest particle of dust or dirt can mar the smoothness of the final surface. It has been 20 years since A. Lange & Söhne launched its first range of watches as a watchmaker of the new era in 1994. The Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst — launched in October 2014 — commemorates these pioneering timepieces, particularly the Lange 1 that was inspired by the clock

art of adorning a dial with miniature handenamelled figures, sceneries and objects, or with a solid background, has for long captivated the imagination. The centuriesold German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne, renowned for its enamelled pocket watches, continues to be recognised for its near-microscopic attention to detail on its fine timepieces. Walter Lange, whose great-grandfather F A Lange founded the company in 1845 and who can be credited with reviving the brand in 1990, once said that perfection is not associated with haste. Whether or not his assertion referred to the fine art of enamelling, it certainly does mirror the intricacies that go into the creation of these objects of desire. To explore the Green Vault in Dresden Castle, the historic palace of Saxon royalty in Germany, is to trace the roots of this opulent art that dates back to 3,500 years. On display from this period are precious enamelled objects crafted by the court jeweller for the Elector of Saxony, Augustus the Strong. A. Lange & Söhne’s watchmaking

artistry of enamelling through its one-of-akind timepieces. “Enamel is capricious and can’t be hurried,” explain Lange’s enamel experts. Indeed, this complicated process, in which a host of steps must be repeated, takes several days to be completed. The process could even run into months. An art in its own right and regarded as watchmaking’s best-kept secret, enamelling requires a high level of skill to be able to create the face of a watch using finely ground coloured glass, oil and water as raw materials. The rare breed of enamellers also come with a good deal of patience to be able create a miniature piece of dial art through a binocular microscope.

of the Semper Opera house in Dresden. The limited-edition watch is as precious as they come. It features a black enamelled dial on which stands highly polished markers and matching hands in rhodium-plated gold. The process of handcrafting an A. Lange & Söhne enamel dial is elaborate, timeconsuming even. The basic raw material comprises a special kind of coloured glass that is reduced to microscopic fragments by rubbing and crushing it in a mortar. The uniformly ground powder is required to be fine enough to pass through a sieve. Enamel experts are also known to develop their own technique of achieving this first step to perfection. Some intuitively sense its readied state just by the feel of the powder against the mortar and pestle. The second step sees the enameller apply a layer of counter-enamel to the back of the dial. This, according to master enamellers, prevents the distortion of enamel on the dial that might occur due to excessive stress. With the treatment of the back of the dial in order, small interstices between letters

facility still operates out of Glashütte, a town near Dresden, carrying forward the Saxon

But, perhaps, one of the greatest challenges of enamelling is to maintain absolute

and figures are filled with enamel using a fine brush or quill. The finely ground enamel

Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst

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powder is then spread over the dial through a sieve, while stray enamel dust is collected on a piece of aluminium foil. The dial is fired for a brief while in a special kiln at a temperature of several hundred degrees, adequate enough to melt the powder into a single smooth surface. These three steps are repeated several times, and this is, perhaps, the first stage where patience, perseverance and a skilled hand come into play. Things could also go drastically wrong at this point. Even a near-invisible foreign

would need to be started from scratch should a mistake occur at this time. An enameller’s years of experience and experimentation also play a big role in his or her knowledge of colour changes that occur in the kiln. The dial is cooled on a fireproof support after each firing. Only when the dial is completely dried and cleaned can the second round of sieving be repeated. The process of subsequent firing and cooling requires anything but a hasty approach. It could even run into several days.

different colour altogether. The more layers of enamel, the darker the appearance of the final surface. The blue shimmering particles on the finished enamelled dial now take on a black appearance. Finally, the contour of the aperture for the tourbillon is meticulously hollowed out and finished with a luxurious, polished chamfer. The process of handcrafting an enamelled dial, like that of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst, might be painstakingly elaborate, but is one that stems from an

particle in the powder can cause bubbles or cracks, and what’s more, the entire process

It is of interest to note that what was once a bright blue fine enamel powder is now a

enameller’s deep-rooted passion for this enigmatic art.

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SIGNé SELECTION MATERIALISTIC JOYS Owning a luxury object is one of life’s great pleasures. Signé Selection features products that define the lifestyle of those to whom quality is more important than price, while a sub-section titled For Her is devoted to a man’s significant other

S PR E Z ZAT UR A WORD: SPREZ·ZA·TU·RA PRONUNCIATION: /ˌsprɛtsəˈt(j)ʊərə / sprāt-tsä-ˈtü-rä DEFINITION: rehearsed spontaneity, studied nonchalance and well-practised naturalness

Zilli SS15

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RIVIERA STYLE Hackett London SS15

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S PR E Z ZAT UR A

Zilli SS15

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RETURN OF THE PINSTRIPE Hackett London SS15

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S PR E Z ZAT UR A

Alfred Dunhill SS15

TRUE BLUE Hackett London SS15

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T H E S U P E R L AT I V E S

THE SUPERLATIVES Kicking off on 19 March 2015, Baselworld attracted approximately 150,000 attendees and 4,000 press representatives. Soak in the best from this year’s Baselworld. For all the dapper gentlemen wanting to know what they should wear on their wrists this year, there’s just one way to find out. For a week, the genteel city of Switzerland, Basel, was swamped with horological aficionados, and with 1,500 brands at the annual event, knowing where to begin may be difficult for many. Several brands showcased their newest models, and here are the stars of the fair

OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M With great anticipation towards the release of Spectre, the James Bond film scheduled for some time this year, OMEGA has been inspired by the Bond family coat of arms and crafted a limited edition Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M model. Among the many interesting features this 41.5-mm stainless steel timepiece has to offer, the oscillating weight strikes a chord with the ones passionate about fine watchmaking. This element has been shaped and fashioned to bear a resemblance to a gun barrel — a design feature that is linked to James Bond. The Bond family coat of arms is recurrently intermingled to generate a dynamic pattern on the watch’s blue PVD dial. The emblem is also seen near the yellow central seconds hand. The limited edition number of this chronometer is engraved on the caseback, as is the assurance of its magnetic resistance. Powered by the absolutely novel OMEGA Master Co-Axial caliber 8507, this watch is resistant to magnetic fields greater than 15,007 gauss.

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Patek Philippe

Breitling

Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5960/1A

Transocean Chronograph 1915

Produced in a 40.5-mm stainless steel case that is complemented with a matching steel bracelet and fold-over clasp, the Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5960/1A looks and feels fantastic on a gentleman’s wrist. Featuring a monocounter register at 6 o’clock that has been reconfigured with minutes (60-minutes) on the inside and hours (12-hours) on the outside, the timepiece has a new silver-grey dial that utilises striking red accents and black hour markers, hands, chronograph subsidiary dial and apertures. Behind the watch is a sapphire caseback that displays the brilliantly finished movement, and noticeable is a stamp with the brand’s seal — a unique hallmark of quality.

In celebration of a 100 years since Breitling created the first independent chronograph pushpiece, the brand created a limited series of its Transocean model. Limited to 1,915 pieces, the Transocean 1915 is water resistant to 100 metres. While this snazzy timepiece is available in a steel mesh strap, one can opt for a brown crocodile leather band with white stitching, too. At 43-mm, Breitling still manages to stay faithful to its identity, without being overdone. Have a closer look to notice the two-tone quality the dial possesses. Within the Transocean 1915 is the manufacture caliber B14 that’s beautifully noticeable through the sapphire crystal caseback. A manually wound movement, the chronometer has a 70-hour power reserve and beats at a brilliant 28,800 vph.

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T H E S U P E R L AT I V E S

Ulysse Nardin

Longines

Hannibal Minute Repeater

Conquest Classic Moonphase

Military commander Hannibal Barca is said to be one of the most famous leaders, and the greatest general of ancient times. In a quest to seize Rome during the war, he marched in an army that included elephants, across the Pyrenees and Alps to take victory in Italy. Ulysse Nardin has depicted this journey in movement and sounds with the limited edition of Hannibal Minute Repeater. The dial has a presentation of Hannibal on horseback along with his elephants and regiment of warriors by his side. These automated characters, known as “jaquemarts,” as well as the mountains in the backdrop, are hand-carved from 18-carat white gold and mounted on granite sourced from the very same mountain chain Hannibal and his regiment had crossed. The caliber UN-78 movement holds a one-minute tourbillon, and a Westminster Carillon minute repeater. The minute repeater features four gongs, each with a different tone. The gongs sound in three different arrangements for the quarters. This spectacular timepiece is housed in a 44-mm platinum case with a sapphire caseback, and is limited to only 30 pieces.

Dating back to its raw equestrian heritage in 1878, Longines was eager to commemorate one of the vital magnitudes of equestrian sport, which is pure elegance. The Swiss house introduces a timepiece with a moon-phase display: the Conquest Classic Moonphase. Subtly merging the brand’s watchmaking heritage, a sporty tone, and an inborn sense of great sophistication, this piece of art has a diameter of 42 mm, with a case that’s available in steel, in steel and rose gold cap or in 18-carat rose gold. The black or silver dial is set with nine indices that are covered with Super-LumiNova®, and makes a tastefully contrasting background to the moon-phase display. It features the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, the 24-hour indicator and the subdial for the seconds at 9 o’clock, as well as the 30-minute counter and the day-and-month display at 12 o’clock.

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Bulgari Octo Velocissimo This refined creation by Bulgari has a technical vocation that proclaims an exceptional style elegantly staged in octagonal lines, while the three counters arranged in a V-shape create a pleasing visual balance on the hand-polished lacquered dial. The Octo Maserati Velocissimo is housed in stainless steel and it features water resistance to 100 metres. This valuable timepiece is eminent for a perfect amalgam of complexity and power. Fashioned with a 41.5-mm diameter, the case is straightforward, yet classy. The rear side of the case is more revealing as it features an enthralling semi-transparent blue sapphire section with suitable inscriptions, as well as the distinctive position of the timepiece in the series.

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FOR HER

embedded in love Despite a large expansion over various areas, pearling remains the heart of the Paspaley Group. James Paspaley, Executive Director, and Christine Salter, Creative Director of the Paspaley Group shed some light on the pearling industry, their connection to the Middle East, the family’s passion, and more

The pearl is a highly enchanting gem as it symbolises

“Our grandfather cultivated pearls, but the very first harvest as

beauty and perfection. Part of the appeal is its organic origin stemming from a living thing, a mollusk. Due to the beautiful porous personality it possesses, pearls warm up against the wearer’s skin and the two become one. Founded and run by the family, the Paspaley Group has carved a niche in the pearling industry, and has a rich heritage spanning 80 years and three generations. Known to be the pioneers of the Australian South Sea pearling industry, today the company has spread its wings over areas ranging from pearling to retail, aviation to agriculture. With

such, in a commercial quantity, but also a quality he was extremely happy with, arrived the day he passed away; that was the first big leap for Paspaley,” says Salter. In those days, shell mortality rates were significantly high, and that was a combat the company had to deal with. At this point, James Paspaley’s father came into the picture and introduced various new systems that involved things such as the “ships going to the shore rather than the shore going to the people”. Salter believes that you can see true value if you go onto any of the

the collection of the most stunning mother-of-pearl shells, the company started in the year of 1935, and in the years that followed, cultivation of these pearls became a chief focus point. Every successful enterprise has a source of inspiration to point to. For Paspaley, that inspiration will always remain the late Nicholas Paspaley Sr.

Paspaley ships. She adds that when they take people out to their pearl farms, they express an appreciation for what they see. Essentially, its like an operating theatre, Salter explains — at the end of the day, everything is washed down with alcohol, no rust to be seen, and all is completely sterile. Even 20-year-old ships look brand new. A permanent commitment to quality is what the Paspaley Group strives to achieve. “When it comes to our design process, we start with the pearl; we later get to the jewellery. A lot of jewellery designers do it the other way,” says Paspaley. The Group’s signature pieces remain pearl strands.

A tale of heritage The Paspaley family fled the Greek island of Castellorizo, as refugees, during World War I and arrived in Australia in the year of 1919, in search of a new beginning. They decided to try their chances at their ship’s first port of call, Cossack, on the Indian Ocean coast of Western Australia. In this far-off part on the globe, the Paspaley family was among a handful of Europeans living in the area with the traditional Aboriginal inhabitants and Asian pearl fishers. The pristine oceans off the Australian coast were, and still are, home to the world’s largest beds of the most prized of the world’s pearl oysters — the giant Pinctada maxima oyster. Traders and settlers soon grew a flourishing industry diving for the mother-of-pearl shell. As diving was one of the few feasible industries in the area, it was only natural that Nicholas Paspaley would learn this challenging trade. By 1932, at the young age of 18, he was at the helm of his own pearling lugger, diving for shell that fulfilled most of the worldwide demand for luxurious buttonmaking. “The shell has three qualities that we seek when it comes to gems — the largest size, the rarest, and the most lustrous. Due to that beauty, it’s sought-after for carvings, watch faces and more,” says Christine Salter, Creative Director.

“We’re the only pearl producer in the world that can offer strands that are so perfectly matched,” says Salter. When speaking of authenticity, Paspaley is also probably the only pearl retailer who produces, too. The pearl strands come with a certificate from the GIA to certify the completely natural, raw and authentic colour and luster. In each pearl strand, Paspaley developed a flash-set diamond within the end pearl — and on a closer look behind it, there’s a serial number and the group’s logo. The beautiful thing about it is that the pearl is completely undrilled and can be taken out by the wearer as and when needed.

Decades of passion The Executive Chairman, Nicholas Paspaley Jr has been principally responsible for pioneering and revolutionising the Australian South Sea pearl industry, and enabling pearls of the quality we see today to be produced. James Paspaley, Executive Director, explains that every business has its own issues, and Paspaley believes in overcoming hindrances one at a time. “We try and retain a humanly direction with

A Middle-Eastern relation Paspaley’s connection to the Middle East has grown over time. Having a rich heritage, the region has always been a great admirer for high-end jewellery, and that’s what Paspaley offers. If we rewind from the times of the oil boom, real estate and new constructions, the UAE was deep-rooted in the pearling field. “I’m sure that if you sat down families from this part of the world as well as our part of the world, and compared stories, they’d be incredibly similar,” says Paspaley. Consequently, there’s a natural affinity and bond between the brand and the UAE. “We spent quite a lot of time with the government about Dubai’s pearling history, and we had a lot of discussions about the revival of that. Locations such as Ras al-Khaimah are doing some pearling experiments, and I think it’s important to carry on this legacy,” Paspaley adds. Damas, the Middle East’s leading jewellery and watch retailer

our people since it’s a family business and not a corporate structure,” says Paspaley.

partnered with the Paspaley, producers of the most beautiful pearls in the world, to craft stunning jewellery for the woman of today.

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James Paspaley, Executive Director at the Paspaley Group

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FOR HER

KEEPING IT CLASSIC PA S PA L E Y

Every pearl succumbs to characteristics from its environment, and is an exclusive impression of the same. Paspaley pearls are renowned for their raw and pure beauty. Classic, opulent and wearable, Paspaley jewellery is made to be treasured for a lifetime.

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PHILANTHROPY SOCI A L CONSCIENCE

Generosity is a barometer by which greatness can be measured. This section introduces the charitable and environmental efforts of brands and companies that choose to be considerate towards the world we all live in today

PHILANTHROPY

C O N S E R VAT I O N F O R A C A U S E

Conservation for a cause The Italian luxury fashion house Zegna spells more than just impeccable style. Fondazione Zegna is an initiative born from compassion and a magnanimous plan that was created by the family to give continuity to various values

105 years of quality textiles, an immense amount of innovation and the quintessential example of style, Ermenegildo Zegna is emblematic of refinement, sophistication, and certainly, superiority. The Italian luxury fashion house provides gentlemen with garb and accessories that have a novel twist in each piece. Founded in Trivero, in the Biella Alps, the house is managed by the fourth generation today and gladly remains within family ownership. Zegna has come a long way and is one of Italy’s most celebrated enterprises. Over the last century, the corporate gene and empire-building vision has been passed down through the generations, ensuring that the name always remains tantamount to forerunners of business. The Group’s ideology is based on three principles: long-term objectives, a family ownership to ensure continuity, and a sound ethical commitment treasured in a corporate governance system. Fondazione Zegna was established on 1 December 2000 by the will of the family. Ever since then, the initiative has played a philanthropic role working with several nonprofit organisations. Fondazione Zegna is a charity characterised by an organisation structure and a deep commitment to charitable work on the part of the Zegna

family and Group employees. It supports and funds projects in teamwork with noprofit organisations operational in several fields and different parts of the world. Anna Zegna is the Foundation’s President and Renata Zegna holds the position of Vice-President, while the rest of the family members comprise the board of directors. A Scientific Committee consisting of experts from several fields advises the board on policy and on evaluation and selection of projects to support. Casa Zegna, part of Fondazione Zegna, is a historical archive and cultural centre in Trivero, in the province of Biella. Inside the Zegna Wool Mill, in a 1930-building that was once the family’s home, a new “archive-museum” concept has been established — an amalgamation of history and experience, but at the same time a multi-purpose space that’s always active, a crucible of new ideas where tradition unifies with revolution. Fondazione Zegna’s mission is to interpret the ethics of the Zegna family and Group into a string of worldwide initiatives. Its social, ethical and cultural objectives are to improve the quality of life for individuals and societies, safeguard the ecosystem and endorse environmental and conservational culture, develop human potential, and support scientific research. The Foundation

funds projects that adopt a model of selfsustainable development by delivering instruments that help people grow independently and that don’t encourage reliance. The Foundation has a unique focus on projects directing towards the younger generations. The President of Fondazione Zegna speaks of philanthropy, social entrepreneurialism and the philosophies of her grandfather, CSR pioneer Ermenegildo Zegna. “Talking about the Foundation, I don’t like to use the word ‘pride’. In a way it is exactly the opposite — you become very humble in understanding that you cannot solve everything,” Anna Zegna.* As a young girl, she dreamed of volunteering with Mother Theresa in India. Now, as President of Fondazione Zegna, working in partnership with NGOs such as the WWF, AMREF, Care & Share, Cesvi, St Jude Children’s Research Hospital and various grassroots organisations, she is able to make a far vaster impression than she ever could’ve desired to in those juvenile fantasies — predominantly by bringing a knowledgeable sense of social entrepreneurialism to the enterprises she’s involved in. “There are a lot of things that I learned from Zegna — the way we manage the business — that we try to apply in the foundation,” she says.

*In an interview with Christian Barker for Billionaire.com

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ALL’APERTO - Horloge (2012) by Roman Signer, a four-metre high “time-sculpture”

PHILANTHROPY

A M O N U M E N TA L E F F O R T

A MONUMENTAL EFFORT Swiss watchmaker Jaeger-LeCoultre, best known as the master of art and mechanics, has embarked on a restoration project of one of Venice’s most impressive and historical structures, the Scuola Grande di San Rocco BY

B E V E R LY P E R E I R A

Jaeger-LeCoultre has always been one to push the boundaries of art. At the time of its genesis, in 1833, the Grande Maison, was the undisputed master of watch complications and of the art of the lapidary. Even today, the 182-year-old company maintains its association with the arts, although it does this in more ways than one. Going beyond the desire to preserve watchmaking know-how and artistry, the brand has also been known to weave a philanthropic narrative into its philosophy. Its most recent association with the arts is its patronage of the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, a late-15th century structure of monumental proportion in Venice. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s philanthropic initiative to preserve the historical and cultural legacy of the Scuola Grande di San Rocco is remarkably apt. For one, the watch house’s craftsmen have perpetually reinvented the brand’s legendary heritage, and the threeyear restoration programme of the structure — announced in June 2014 — is a reflection of this. It is also fitting that Scuola Grande di San Rocco and its confraternity, one of Venice’s richest, was reputed for its involvement with charitable works. It was founded in 1478 under the patronage of Saint Rocco, patron saint of the plague-stricken and protector from calamities. The structure, with its majestic architecture, comprises three distinct sections: the 16th century Scuola Grande building, the Scoletta that served as the initial headquarters of the association, and a church built at the end of the 18th century. Today, the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, located in the San Polo quarter near the church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, remains one of Venice’s most storied structures from a time gone by. The construction of the structure itself took more than 30 years to be completed and was executed by different people including Bartolomeo Bon who created the ground floor; Sante Lombardo; Antonio Scarpagnino, who completed the upper section and harmonised the façade with the construction of a double row of columns; and, finally, De’ Grigi Giangiacomo, who further worked on the structure from 1549 onwards.

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PHILANTHROPY

A M O N U M E N TA L E F F O R T

Scuola Grande di San Rocco

Besides its notable architecture, the interior of the Scuola Grande di San Rocco is a work of art in itself. Italian artist Tintoretto, a member of the Scuola, decorated walls, ceilings and rooms with his Renaissance-style paintings, which is in all probability the reason for this monument’s nickname — ‘Sistine Chapel of Venice’. The Albergo Room, for instance carries one of the artist’s most famous works: a scene from the Passion of Christ and the Crucifixion. The Upper Hall, decorated between 1575 and 1581, features scenes from the Old and New Testament. Two years later, Tintoretto, then 70, returned to paint eight large canvases on the Ground Floor that houses three naves. The depth of Tintoretto’s artistry can be gauged as soon as one steps foot inside the structure. But, perhaps, it is nonetheless enlightening to know that the artist, influenced by Michelangelo, was known to create wax statues of his models that allowed him to experiment with the angle of light sources before painting. Much like a filmmaker, Tintoretto was, thus, able to tell an impressive story as well as to stir emotions through his canvases. But Jaeger-LeCoultre’s affinity with the art-steeped city of Venice is not exactly a new development. The union of the two, both of which symbolise the intersection of the artist, craftsman and cultural heritage, goes back 10 years, when Jaeger-LeCoultre teamed with the

festival, informally known as La Mostra in Italy, is a part of the Venice Biennale, an initiative founded by the Venetian City Council in 1895. Jaeger-LeCoultre has since continually lent its support to the 10-day annual festival that features over 50 films, majorly world premiers, competing for prizes from 71 countries. Actively involved in the festival’s events ranging from the Golden Lion award ceremony, to the Glory to the Filmmaker Award, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents winners with personalised timepieces. Actor and Director James Franco was the recipient of the Glory to the Filmmaker Award at the 71st edition of the Venice Film Festival in 2014. Besides being conferred with an award that honoured his significant contribution to the development of contemporary cinema, Franco was presented with a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso timepiece, rendered unique by enamelling and engraving. The brand has sponsored this award for the last seven years, honouring such directors as Spike Lee, Al Pacino, Mani Ratnam, Agnes Varda, Ettore Scola, Sylvester Stallone and Abbas Kiarostami. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s commitment to keep the heritage of the Scuola Grande di San Rocco alive is testimony to an for the Venetian arts. With the commencement of the restoration process — the lights and marble of the Scuola Grande’s Ground Floor and Upper Hall are being

Venice Film Festival (Mostra Internazionale d’Arte Cinematographica della Biennale di Venezia) as its partner. Founded in 1932, the

restored — the majestic structure can soon be expected to return to its former glory.

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OBSESSION In a quintessential world The world of luxury favours those who know the true worth of exquisite possessions and will never settle for less than perfection. Obsession introduces precious bespoke items and collectibles that are designed for the most discerning and sophisticated luxury aficionados

OBSESSION

FOR ALL ITS WORTH

FOR ALL ITS WORTH Timepiece360, the Middle East’s first dedicated online store for pre-owned luxury timepieces, couldn’t have arrived at a better time to present a win-win situation to both buyer and seller

It’s a given that luxury timepieces are built to be passed down from generation to generation. Even more intriguing is the fact that they are often produced in limited editions marked with unique serial numbers. While the market for pre-used timepieces has been as busy as ever since time immemorial, today, a major part of it has moved online. But would you trust just about any online seller’s claim to authenticity when selling or buying a vintage watch for what it’s worth? Counterfeits aside, the risk that arises from buying online could even extend to the use of fake parts in an original body. Khaled El Sayed, who co-founded the Dubai-based Timepiece360, a websites that buys, sells and trades pre-owned timepieces, explains that as long as the counterfeit market exists, this problem will continue. The goal of launching the company, he explains, was to simply bring a traditional brick-and-mortar industry online. When El Sayed founded the company with Khalil Al Kaddo in October 2014, the duo very well knew that ‘recommerce’ — a term coined by Forrester Research Chief Executive George Colony in 2005 — was changing the face of business. Add to this the fact that the luxury goods space was an ideal market, particularly in Dubai. “It’s important for people to understand that we are a combination of an online-offline platform that sells luxury timepiece brands that range from OMEGA to Patek Philippe,” says El Sayed, adding that the company offers three main services — selling, buying and trading.

Adil Iskander, Timepiece360’s in-house watch expert

Timepiece360 puts the luxury back into buying a luxury watch online through a sophisticated process that includes pickup and delivery facilities. A client looking to sell their timepiece can enter its details on the website, after which Timepiece360 will respond within 24 hours with two options that include a direct buy or sales action on behalf of the client, minus a commission. For the online luxury shopper who wishes to make an immediate purchase, the portal offers a range of pre-sourced high-end timepieces, uploaded online. But, perhaps, one of the most interesting services of the

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lot is the ability to trade a pre-owned watch, should one get bored of it. “We try to be as accommodating as possible, and if a client wants an upgrade, downgrade or simply a change, we try to offer a deal to match,” he explains. The number of repeat customers that frequent Timepiece360 is testament to the fact that the portal ticks all the right boxes when it comes to authenticity and transparency. “This is because of our watch connoisseur who verifies that every watch that comes in is in pristine condition when sold,” explains El Sayed. The watches are extensively put through a verification process to ensure that everything is in working condition. All watches bought on Timepiece360 also come with a one-year warranty, which, according to El Sayed, is rarely ever required. “But when one buys a luxury product, one needs to feel at ease knowing that they are being looked after in case of any issues.” Adil Iskander is, perhaps, the company’s biggest asset. As Timepiece360’s inhouse watch expert, Iskander valuates and authenticates each of the timepieces before they are bought, sold or traded. Previously involved in his second-generation watch and jewellery family business, he travelled the world extensively in search of the finest timepieces. It’s no wonder then that when Timepiece360 receives a request for a specific timepiece, it is Iskander who takes it upon himself to reach out to his network within the UAE and beyond.

A selection from Timepiece360 — Patek Philippe Nautilus, Rolex Cellini in white and rose gold, Rolex Submariner steel, Rolex Sky-Dweller in yellow gold, Hublot Big Bang Ceramic Titanium, Rolex Milgauss steel

One of the rarest timepieces to have been sold on Timepiece360 was the Ulysse Nardin Skeleton Tourbillon, shares Iskander. This limited edition watch, featuring a deceptive nature of movement that appears to portray hardly any movement, was the first skeletonised tourbillon to have been crafted by the watchhouse. “It was sold immediately to a very keen watch collector,” he says, adding that his own current favourite on Timepiece360

an iconic Gerald Genta creation, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, which, according to Iskander, is a watch that can only be appreciated when actually worn. According to a research by Bain & Company, Dubai is one of the world’s biggest shopping capitals; it commands 30 per cent of the Middle Eastern luxury market and approximately 60 per cent of the UAE’s. How, then, has the actual response been to Timepiece360 in a

change your perception of a pre-owned watch. “Owning a pre-loved watch offers great value for money. Once a watch has been worn, it typically depreciates in value. But depending on the brand and model, it can hold its value and, in some cases, appreciate over time. The other great thing is that you cannot always tell if a watch is new or pre-owned. Take a Rolex, for instance. The look and feel doesn’t really change over time. Besides, whether in London,

includes the Hublot Big Bang Rose Gold with diamonds. Yet another personal favourite is

shopping capital that’s brimming with new products? El Sayed responds with what might

New York, Tokyo or Dubai, people love a great deal,” he concludes.

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S PA R K S O F M A G I C

Sparks of Magic TO CELEBRATE 100 YEARS OF THE PANTHÈRE, CARTIER CREATES THE ROYAL COLLECTION, IN WHICH EACH PIECE IS TRULY A COLLECTIBLE IN ITS OWN RIGHT

A celebrated name in jewellery, and in the Place Vendôme itself, Cartier has been creating luxury pieces of adornment since 1847. The well-regarded Parisian brand is representative of exquisite artistry, sophistication and refinement — be it iconic designs

Prince William in London, in 2011, Catherine Middleton wore a tiara that was created in 1936 for the Duchess of York, the precious tiara was also worn by Princess Margaret. This headpiece creates a halo of light, and was aptly given the name Halo Scroll tiara. Cartier crafted this

such as the Trinity ring, Tank watches, or the Duchess of Windsor’s panther bracelet, Cartier has persistently advocated ingenious design through its own ties to the art world, consequently setting a high benchmark for others. Illustrious jewellers of royalty, the jewellery house has quite justly earned the description — as Edward VII said — “the jeweller of kings, and the king of jewellers”.

in the form of a band of 16 graduated scrolls set with 739 brilliants and 149 baton diamonds. Cartier rings, tiaras and sets of jewellery stand testament to an extremely extraordinary dialogue between the jeweller and these historic personalities. The artisans behind this brand are devoted to producing work of rare creations including intaglio engraving, gold cloisonné work, arranging stones into mosaics, enamelling and floral marquetry. Cartier’s range is divided into the art of fire, the art of metalwork and the art of composition, with consistent additions of new proficient crafts.

A ROYAL SLICE OF HISTORY In the year of 1909, at the behest of Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna of Russia, Cartier created a tiara that was adorned with dazzling sapphires and diamonds — this was just the beginning of the bond to be formed between the brand and the royals. Just three years later, another stunning tiara studded with diamonds was made for Queen Elisabeth of the Belgians; it was bestowed with one cushion-shaped diamond, round old-cut diamonds, and beautiful millegrain setting. Another tiara, in 1920, was created for Queen Victoria of Eugenia of Spain, which comprised swirls of diamonds that surrounded eight large pearls. The highly respected Parisian brand has always been emblematic of a level of great class. Cartier attracted the regal gentleman of India, too. Jagatjij Singh, Maharaja of Kapurthala, entrusted Cartier with the creation of a head ornament — and to no surprise, the brand surpassed all expectations with a work of art that comprised 19 exceptional emeralds, including an extremely rare stone of 117.40 carats. Cartier has been a privileged witness of royal and princely love stories such as that of the Duke and Duchess of Winsdor, or that of Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier III of Monaco, who sealed their union with a Cartier ring adorned with a 10.47-carat emerald-cut diamond. For her wedding to

AN EVENING TO REMEMBER To celebrate extraordinary gemstones together with Cartier’s optimum artistry, 300 exquisite pieces from Cartier’s Royal Collection were unveiled in Dubai. The essence of High Jewelry was perfected with an evening of royal splendour: an exclusive private gala dinner held under the patronage of HH Sheikha Manal bint Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum. This incomparable collection saw a launch event in only four cities on the globe: Paris, New York, Dubai and Hong Kong. The Royal launch recently climaxed in an exquisite set of events whereby Cartier’s respected aficionados were given an imperial experience of a lifetime. Beautified to look like the Château de Versailles, the Four Seasons welcomed well-regarded invitees who were given the opportunity of being among the first to view the collection. Guests were not only treated to an exceptional show put up by dancers and musicians who were especially flown in from Paris, but were the few privileged ones to view the stupendous and opulent collection on international models dressed in Victorian-inspired costumes.

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THE ALCHEMST OF BIJOUX An ardent observer of exquisiteness throughout the world, Cartier seeks rare stones for every artwork crafted. The novel collection of High Jewelry: the Cartier Royal Collection commemorates the unique stones that have always been a fundamental part of the brand’s rich history. Never has the mesmerising trio of sapphire, emerald and ruby gleamed brighter before. Comprising more than 100 creations, the Royal Collection allows for each piece to let its star gem shine and attain the most attention. Cartier gives every piece an enthralling identity, ensures it’s in sync with today and is, at the same time, accompanied with the treasures of tomorrow. The collection emits stately exquisiteness and grandeur that’s only fit for a queen.

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S PA R K S O F M A G I C

Royal tiara Pearls have a rich history and are symbolic of fortune, faith and devotion. The most expensive piece from the Biennale collection, the Royal tiara owes its name to one of the premium pearls in history, from which Cartier has drawn its inspiration for this exceptional creation. The Royal pearl is a perfect drop shape, and is complemented with more than 30 natural pearls on platinum. Following in the great convention of transformable jewels, Cartier has crafted this radiant beauty in a way that it can also be worn as a necklace. The Royal pearl can be detached from the main piece and worn as a pendant. Said to have been acquired from the waters of the Persian Gulf, it once belonged to Queen Mary of England, wife of George V, who later passed it down to her daughter. Born in 1897, and also named Mary, the princess was photographed wearing the pearl during several occasions. She, in turn, bequeathed it to her son George Lascelles, Earl of Harewood, who gave it to his wife Patricia on their special day. This piece mirrors much of Cartier’s ideology: the stones and gems are at the heart of all the decision-making — stones first, which then trigger the design process.

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The Royal pearl is a perfect drop shape, and is complemented with more than 30 natural pearls on platinum

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S PA R K S O F M A G I C

Pur Absolu necklace Distinguished because it belongs to the very select circle of Golconda-type diamonds, the Pur Absolu necklace forms an openwork trellis of diamonds, tapering towards a fine pearl and a pear-shaped diamond. This piece is transformable and can either be worn as a necklace or a ring. Set on platinum and encrusted with rare diamonds, the ring provides the stone with a truly regal appeal. The sparkle and pureness of a 30.21-carat diamond inspired this extraordinary piece of Cartier High Jewelry. This pearl lives up to its imperial title: its history is closely related to that of one of the greatest queens of England, and its personality makes it one of the most beautiful pearls known to mankind, continuing the long tradition of pearls upheld by Cartier.

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Reine Makéda necklace Every Cartier concept begins with a stone — in this case, it was an oval ruby from Mozambique. A traditional creation of jewellery that takes its grandeur from the world of style, the Reine Makéda necklace holds a rare red ruby that is set into a necklace encrusted with pearshaped diamonds and cabochon-cut rubies. The two parts can be detached and the rubies can be worn as a choker separately, while the diamonds form a beautiful necklace that are gracefully draped around the central ruby. This piece of jewellery taps into the style entrenched in the history of Cartier, and the brand’s inquisitiveness in the magnificence this world has to offer. The philosophy behind this necklace is that of a “second skin”.

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The Reine Makéda necklace holds a rare red ruby that is set into a necklace encrusted with pear-shaped diamonds and cabochon-cut rubies

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Viracocha necklace Between a master jeweller’s diverse dexterities and the setting and polishing of stones, nearly 1,000 hours were put in to create a piece that uncovers all the impressive beauty of this Colombian emerald, and at the same time, its sophisticated simplicity. A Colombian emerald, embedded into a necklace along with a kite-shaped diamond as well as emerald beads, calibrated diamonds and brilliant-cut diamonds — the Viracocha necklace has an illusorily modest design that allows the gorgeous green shades of the stone to stand out at the forefront, and boasts the raw beauty of the gem. Cartier designed this necklace of emeralds and diamonds to pay tribute to the mystery and the Amerindian origins of this fascinating emerald. The Colombian emerald is distinguished by the originality of its cushion shape, which is very rare for an emerald. The striking crystal, with a colour that is both fresh and deep, and that exudes evenly distributed light, is an ancient emerald known as “old mine”. Its subtle crystallisation and extremely soft fire are qualities that make it one of the most sought-after stones in the world.

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S PA R K S O F M A G I C

Bleu Bleuet ring The Cartier Bleu Bleuet Royal ring, in platinum, carries a 29.06-carat cushion-cut sapphire from Kashmir, which is complemented with triangular-shaped diamonds, calibrated diamonds, and brilliant-cut diamonds. The stone is extremely rare because it hails from a mine that’s situated at an altitude of 4,000 metres in the Himalayas, and has almost reached a stage of depletion.

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The Cartier Royal Collection commemorates the exquisite gems that have always played a vital role of the Parisian house’s grand history

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OBSESSION

O F F T O A F LY I N G S T A R T

OFF TO A FLYING START Breitling, the pioneer of aviation timepieces, puts an infallible distress beacon on your wrist with its new generation of the Emergency wristwatch

When Breitling launched its Emergency wristwatch in 1995, it was every aviator and extreme adventure professional’s

When the iconic pilot’s watch Breitling Navimeter arrived in 1952, the brand was projected into the world of professional

during the homing process. While the first signal emits at a frequency of 406 MHz that lasts for 0.44 seconds every 50 seconds, the

dream come true. The brand sold approximately 40,000 pieces worldwide and played an incomparable role in many a search-andrescue mission. But even as numerous lives were being saved, Breitling was at work on a new version. And, it wasn’t even as if the brand was planning yet another technical marvel with a host of new features and a stronger design. The company was simply doing what

wearable devices, not only for its highprecision chronometers, but also for its strong design. Now that Breitling is well into its 130th year of existence, it remains one of the last standing family-owned companies in the Swiss watch industry. Originally founded by Léon Breitling in 1884, it was sold to its current owner, the Schneider family, in 1979. That there have only ever been five people,

second 121.5 homing and rescue frequency lasts 0.75 second every 2.26 seconds. Besides years spent on research, development and testing, Breitling faced another challenge during the development of the Emergency II. Even though a COSCcertified dual-frequency personal-location beacon already existed, it was roughly the size of two cigarette packs. The 130-year-

it does best — offering a user-friendly safety and survival instrument that would serve its sole purpose, be it in the cockpit or in dangerous waters. That’s not to say that there was anything drastically wrong with the original Breitling Emergency watch. It operated at an international air distress frequency of 121.5 MHz that, when activated, signalled for alert, homing and rescue operations to the Cospas-Sarsat satellite alert system. This international organisation is based on a network of satellites in low-altitude earth orbit and in geostationary orbit, and comprises ground-receiving stations, and control and coordination centres. However, a change in Cospas-Sarsat regulations in 2009 specified that satellite processing at the frequency of 121.5 MHz was to be phased out and that alerts would need to be triggered at 406 MHz in all future distress radio beacons. Breitling was thus required to incorporate into its Emergency watch not one but two different frequencies. The reason for this, according to Cospas-Sarsat, was to prevent

across the Breitling and Schneider family, to head the company in the last 130 years is proof of Brietling’s consistent output. Although the main technology for the new version of the Emergency already existed, it took four years of development and another year for the Cospas-Sarsat certification to arrive. Even the idea behind the first Emergency watch was realised ten whole years after Earnest Schneider — Breitling’s owner at the time — attended a NATO conference in 1985, where he understood that on-board Emergency Locator Transmitters were not completely reliable. Instead of simply replacing the on-board device, he realised that a wearable device always within a pilot’s reach, should everything else fail, was in order. The new Emergency watch, announced in 2013 and launched in 2014, goes steps ahead of its predecessor to serve as a reliable personal-locating beacon operating on a dualfrequency for all distress situations on land, at sea and in the air. It is equipped with a micro transmitter that transmits a digital frequency

the occurrence of false unnecessary expenditure.

of 406 MHz, in addition to a 121.5 analogue frequency to offer rescuers more information

old watch brand, that is known for key values including functionality, legibility and precision in its chronometers, also holds strong design as a company virtue. Practising what it preaches, Breitling, naturally, strived to maintain a stylish approach to the new Emergency watch while incorporating features of a distress transmitter. The result is a Breitling Calibre 76 electronic chronograph movement, housed in a lightweight 51mm titanium case, and kitted with an in-house thermo compensated SuperQuartz, 12/24hour analogue, LCD digital display, battery end-of-life indicator, 1/100th second chronograph, second time zone and multilingual calendar. The Breitling Emergency II timepiece, launched in the UAE towards the end of 2014, is being well received in the region, which is a key market for the brand, thanks to the presence of adventure enthusiasts and aviation professionals who are acquainted with precision and high technology. The brand has always had an obsession for top-notch quality, and the goal remains to perform outstandingly well with every launch.

alarms

and

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Supreme utility The Emergency II features a Breitling-developed user-friendly antenna system, comprising two extendable antennas housed on either side of the case that are manually deployed, should one need to send a distress signal.

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OBSESSION

A NOD TO THE SARTORIAL WORLD

A NOD TO THE SARTORIAL WORLD With Savile Row tailoring at the centre of its narrative, Matthew Vaughn’s espionage film Kingsman: The Secret Service proves that clothes really do make the man. The exclusive collaboration with MR PORTER has given the Kingsman garb a visual appeal with sartorial flair BY

B E V E R LY P E R E I R A

Espionage movies and well-cut suits are no strange bedfellows. Could you possibly imagine a secret agent sneaking around in shoddy attire? In Matthew Vaughn’s latest spy film — Kingsman: The Secret Service — just about every character, villain included, is dressed to the nines. There’s even a Savile Row tailor shop that serves as a front for the film’s suave set of spies. The film, released in the UK in January this year, and that hit the big screen in the UAE a month later, is nothing short of a dedication to the old-world charm of the sartorial world. Its English director has even developed an eponymous menswear label that includes a 60-piece capsule collection, inspired by the clothes and accessories worn in the film. Kingsman: The Secret Service is based on The Secret Service comic book series, created by Dave Gibbons and Mark Millar. Vaughn, reputed for such famous movies as Lock, Stock and Two Smoking Barrels (1998) and Snatch (2000), among a host of others, was also associated with superhero films such as X-Men: First Class (2011). So, as you can imagine, he was already well acquainted with this style of filmmaking. However, when it came to envisioning this spy actioncomedy film, he didn’t quite approach it like a conventional superhero film; he took the highly detailed cinematic approach, right down to the character’s cufflinks. Vaughn, who directed, co-wrote and coproduced the film, says the sets and look behind the film came to him at an unlikely moment. He was standing in a prestigious Savile Row tailor’s dressing room, when, out of sheer boredom, he started to reimagine the room as an elevator that, at the press of a secret button, would be able to transport him into a hidden lair. “The suit is a modern gentlemen’s armour. And the Kingsman agents are the new knights,” points out Harry Hart, a veteran Kingsman agent in the film played by Colin Firth. Firth’s character, which also goes by the code name Galahad, attempts to bring in a new recruit —

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OBSESSION

A NOD TO THE SARTORIAL WORLD

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Cutler and Gross sunglasses; Conway Stewart fountain pen

young protégé Gary “Eggsy” Unwin, played by newcomer Taron Egerton — to the Kingsman, a secret agency that Hart and his group of impeccably dressed spies belong to. The film opens with a raid in the Middle East, in which Eggsy’s father, a probationary secret agent gives up his

Eggsy is championed to apply to the fold of the Kingsman. The training to become a secret agent is overseen by Merlin (Mark Strong) — who is to the Kingsman what Q is to James Bond. It involves, in equal parts, a series of death-defying tests and lessons on being dapper because “The first thing every

life while shielding members of the Kingsman. Hart, feeling indebted to his slain comrade’s family, leaves them with a bravery medal inscribed with a phone number should they ever need help. More than a decade and a half passes, before Eggsy, now unemployed after abandoning his Royal Marines training in favour of a directionless life, finally decides to call the phone number. This is when Hart makes Eggsy privy to the existence of the Kingsman and Eggsy’s late father’s longstanding association with the secret agency.

gentleman needs is a good suit,” says Firth’s character, Hart. Eggsy fails the final test, but he does manage to clean up well, going from unrefined to suave. Meanwhile, devious Valentine’s twisted views on humanity and global warming are made clear to the audience. And, his maniacal desire to annihilate the entire world, save for a select few, comes into play. Using futuristic mind-control techniques — involving a SIM card that doubles as a mind control chip — he plans to broadcast a worldwide signal using a satellite network in a bid to cull the human race.

Like most espionage films, this one has plenty of gadgetry to keep you entertained. Remote-controlled poison pens assume the purpose of a poison dart, while stylish black umbrellas double as guns. There are holographic spectacles that permit a virtual meeting between the Kingsman, and smart watches that shoot darts. If these gadgets don’t get you, the sleek gold cigarette lighter that propels hand grenades, in all probability, will. If spy films and gadgets go hand in hand, the villainous character is never too far behind. And so, Vaughn introduces the rogue philanthropist billionaire Richmond Valentine, whose calling is to save the world by annihilation. Samuel L Jackson plays Valentine and does a viciously good job in his pinstripe suits. As mentioned earlier, even the villains in the film are dressed to kill. When another Kingsman, Lancelot, dies in an attempt to rescue Professor James Arnold (played by Mark Hamill), who gets kidnapped by assailants led by the villainous Valentine,

Plenty of action-packed scenes later, Eggsy returns in his newly evolved sartorial avatar to save the day. Likely to be the first of many more films to follow, Kingsman: The Secret Service is one of those rare espionage films that is successfully tinged with apt, contextual humour. But it is also one that is a nod to the sartorial world. Renowned costume designer Arianne Phillips — who designed for such films as Walk the Line (2005) and 3:10 to Yuma (2007) and who worked alongside Savile Row master Martin Nicholls for Madonna’s film W.E. — was in charge of the film’s costume design department. Phillips did a grand job of suiting up characters in Kingsman: The Secret Service, so much so that viewers would likely be tempted to try out some, if not all, of these wearable looks that are reminiscent of the classic British gentleman’s wardrobe. Phillips once again teamed up with master tailor Nicholls as well as with a slew of British heritage brands to create each character’s look.

Drake’s bow tie for Kingsman

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OBSESSION

A NOD TO THE SARTORIAL WORLD

Imagine, then, wearing that same handsome pair of handmade black calfskin Oxfords that Arthur (Michael Caine), the film’s veteran

Turnbull & Asser have also crafted a silk dressing gown and pajama set to ensure that the sartorial flair of a Kingsman secret agent

secret agent and head of the Kingsman, dons onscreen. A Bremont timepiece strapped on to the wrist of Merlin, technical know-how to the Kingsman, is yet another piece worthy of being pursued. The movie also proves that the double-breasted suit, featured in almost every scene, is no longer a piece of clothing suited to the past. Mr Vaughn and the team at MR PORTER worked closely with award-winning costume designer Ms Arianne Phillips to design and create iconic pieces inspired by Savile Row tradition, and made by

as well as that of every stylish man never falls below the line. Ties and silk-blend pocket squares, produced entirely by hand by Drake’s at its workshop on Haberdasher Street in East London, lend those tiny but crucial finishing touches. Other accessories worn in the film and that have found a place in the Kingsman collection include hats by Lock & Co; briefcases by the 250-year-old leather goods company and royal warrant holder, Swaine Adeney Brigg; rose-gold cufflinks by Deakin & Francis; and

the best in British production including: Bremont timepieces; Cutler and Gross eyewear; Drake’s ties and pocket squares; Corgi knitwear; George Cleverley footwear; Mackintosh outerwear; Swaine Adeney Brigg accessories and Turnbull & Asser shirting. The 60-piece Kingsman collection includes suits, shoes, ties, hats, cufflinks, watches, umbrellas and briefcases, based on creations for the film by venerable British brands. Looks from the movie now live in the real world and can be accessed by those who wish to give their wardrobe

tortoiseshell luxury eyewear by Cutler and Gross. Swaine Adeney Brigg’s sleek and stylish black umbrellas are set to make a classic comeback to the gentleman’s wardrobe of today, all thanks to the film. The Bremont ALT1-B Automatic Chronograph watch, as seen on Kingsman Merlin, is also part of the collection. Interestingly, Vaughn looked to his personal experiences when it came to conjuring up this pioneering costume-to-collection idea. He says that there have been several films across time that convinced

a finely detailed dose of the sartorial. Leather lace-up boots, patent-leather Oxfords and trimmed cashmere slippers, featured in the film and that are now part of the Kingsman collection, were crafted by bespoke British shoemaker George Cleverley, who has dressed personalities as famous as Alexander McQueen, Winston Churchill and Tom Wolfe. A broad selection of classic double-breasted suits, single-breasted sports jackets, velvet smoking jackets, tuxedos and overcoats feature traditionally patterned fabric woven exclusively for the movie and label

him to try out a new piece of clothing or accessory. Indeed, product placement is escapable in films these days. But to give the audience the option of taking a product off-screen to make it his or her own is something that has quite possibly never been explored before. By creating a tangible brand that simultaneously lives in both the cinematic and real world, the boundaries between fiction and reality get blurred. And, aren’t these blurred boundaries wherein lies the charm of cinema?

by the best British mills. Some of the film’s classic suits, available in the Kingsman collection, have been hand tailored in England by Cheshire Bespoke. The Kingsman wardrobe also comprises shirts crafted by the illustrious Jermyn Street shirt makers, Turnbull & Asser. Besides a dress shirt, the line includes three shirts in cotton poplin and three in Oxford cloth. The Kingsman wardrobe also consists of essentials such as the cashmere cardigan and sweater made by the Walesbased Corgi, producer of the most stylish and comfortable knitwear. For those times when the weather takes a nasty turn, there’s the waxed field jacket in Black Watch tartan designed by the 150-year-old Scottish raincoat company Mackintosh.

George Cleverley boots; Swaine Adeney Brigg umbrella

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MR PORTER will showcase the upcoming collection of Kingsman in the month of April

HERITAGE ANECDOTES OF A BEQUEST

Behind every brand of note there are stories of success and failure, trial and tribulation. However, it is these tales that define a brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity. Here, the narrative of a brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s history is shared, from humble beginnings to present-day triumphs and every story on the way

THROUGH THE AGES

Louis-Ulysse Chopard and his family

A custom of superiority LUXURY WATCH, JEWELLERY AND ACCESSORIES BRAND, CHOPARD WAS FOUNDED BY A MASTERMIND AT THE YOUNG AGE OF 24. LOUIS-ULYSSE CHOPARD WAS A TALENTED CRAFTSMAN WHO ESTABLISHED A WORKSHOP THAT LED BY VIRTUE OF PRECISION AND RELIABILITY

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A tale worth reiterating, Chopard put its first foot forward in the year of 1860. Born in the quaint village of Sonvilier, Switzerland, the brand has honed the practice of meticulousness and consistency over the years. Louis-Ulysse Chopard was an highly skilled young man, and started the company with a vision to provide the world with timepieces that watch aficionados, or not, would cherish for a lifetime. He, swiftly, gained a worthy and strong repute amongst enthusiasts, and came in contact with buyers from locations as far as Eastern Europe, Russia and Scandinavia. In the year of 1921, the Founder’s son, Paul Louis Chopard started a branch in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and soon after, relocated the company headquarters there. In 1937, he moved the firm to Geneva, the capital of Haute Horlogerie or Fine Watchmaking, and this move proved to be a good one as it brought the house closer to a cosmopolitan clientele. In 1943, Paul André Chopard, grandson of Louis-Ulysse, took the helm. Twenty years down the line, he sought a buyer who was capable of revitalising and propagating the company’s rich heritage, since none of his sons wished to take over. This keen gentleman

decision to buy the company. With momentum from the Scheufele family, Chopard encountered remarkable growth. Legendary for its ingenuity, advanced technology and the brilliance of its craftsmen, the brand became one of the foremost names in the high-end watch and jewellery industry. Wholly self-governing, Chopard is practising a time-honoured household custom. Scheufele and his wife, Karin, have engineered the company’s global expansion for over 40 years, and are still dynamic in the firm. Their children, Caroline Scheufele and Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, are responsible for the ladies’ collections and high jewellery, and the gents’ collections and the Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier, respectively. Remaining a totally independent family firm to this day, Chopard could not have reached this stage without a precise and rigorous set of governing principles. Over the years, numerous commercial ethics have emerged, and are all firmly entrenched in the family spirit; they form the integral pillar of Chopard. Gifted with a code of values and morals cultivated by common sense and devotion, the Chopard Company has been progressively and placidly forged, since the beginning in 1860. In accord with its past, and with Chopard’s rational ideology, freedom of

was Karl Scheufele, scion of a family of watchmakers and jewellers from Pforzheim, Germany. After a brief meeting, Scheufele made the

individuality is the chief value of this firm; that elucidates why production has reached such a high degree of rising integration.

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THROUGH THE AGES

1976 Whether modest or ostentatious, daring or aristocratic, radiant by day or shining by night, women are keenly involved in the present, moving ahead with no sense of wistfulness and merely appreciating the splendour of living. Two sapphire watch crystals, bounded by diamonds in freely flowing form, giving a special glow to each second, and lending a new dimension to the value of the passing of time — from the beautiful design of the Happy Diamonds watches to the multipurpose character of the Happy Sport model, this collection of watches is a reflective tribute to diamonds.

1980 An unexpected, but wondrous surprise, Chopard unveiled a sports watch, St Moritz, the first to be designed for Chopard by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, then aged 22. This line of water-resistant, sport-chic watches was proposed in steel and in 18-carat gold. Equipped with a self-winding movement and available in versions for men and women, including a chronograph, the St Moritz seized the mood of the times, and seemed to be apt for both casual as well as formal settings. The first Chopard boutiques were opened in Hong Kong, Geneva and Vienna in the 1980.

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1985 The first design to be drawn for this collection was drafted by Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele. The clown symbolises the brand’s new jewellery-oriented mindset. This creation also represents the brand’s expansion in the field of marketing, communication and distribution — thanks to imaginative models stemming from Caroline’s bold and gifted approach to design. Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele were appointed vice presidents, before subsequently taking over joint presidency of the company.

1988 The year of 1988 sees the start of the partnership between Chopard and the fabled vintage car rally, Mille Miglia. Chopard generates the 1000 Miglia watch collection eminent for its sporting lines, whose design is regularly revisited in new models. Together with the Jacky Ickx and Grand Prix de Monaco Historique models, it will later form the Classic Racing collection, thereby continuing the alliance between the world of automobiles and high-precision watchmaking.

1993 Caroline Gruosi-Scheufele’s favourite, the Happy Sport watch line makes an unforgettable impression on its era. It becomes the first watch that is brave enough to combine steel and diamonds within an inventive worldwide concept. It has remained one of the watch industry’s long-term success stories ever since. The concept is understood in a wide variety of shapes and materials, and features a continually renewed design that surprises enthusiasts by its uniqueness and its decidedly modern spirit.

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THROUGH THE AGES

1994 Bringing splendours of the French empire back to life, Chopard presents diamond-pavé watches that assert the brand’s originality in the 1970s; a new jewellery-watch was born in the year of 1994. The Impériale collection consists of a series of round or square, chronograph, and/ or gem-set watches for both men and women.

1997 Chopard introduces the L.U.C 1860 — the first watch housing a L.U.C movement (L.U.C 1.96). This model is voted “Watch of the Year” by the Swiss magazine Montres Passion.

1998 The brand becomes an official partner of the Cannes Film Festival. It all began in 1998 when the President of this esteemed festival asked Caroline Scheufele to redesign the beloved Palme d’Or trophy. Ever since, Chopard has become an enthusiastic part of the world’s most impressive and glamorous cinematic affair.

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2003 Chopard presents the L.U.C Calibre 02.01 (L.U.C 1.02) and the first L.U.C Tourbillon watch, a new technological accomplishment by Chopard Manufacture.

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THROUGH THE AGES

2010 Profoundly conscious of the fact that its craftsmen are the beating heart of the company, Chopard has given top priority to training its artisans. Within the workshops, the production processes are regularly enhanced, and various skills are cultivated, updated, and passed on in order to promise high quality. Chopard celebrates its 150th anniversary and launches the Animal World High Jewellery collection.

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2013 To celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Happy Sport, Chopard launches the Happy Sport Medium Automatic. Part of the Classic Racing collection, the Superfast line extends to steel after models in gold. The movements that drive these next-generation timepieces are developed and manufactured by Fleurier Ebauches. Chopard offers customers the chance to create their own Happy Sport watch with an exclusive application.

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H E R I TA G E

MEMOIRS OF A MUSE

MEMOIRS OF A MUSE The Chanel Misia fragrance revives the tale of two friends who delved deep into the avant-garde art scene of Paris during the Roaring Twenties. The creator of the fragrance and Chanel’s new nose, Olivier Polge, has captured the elegant essence of this era to a tee BY

B E V E R LY P E R E I R A

When a fragrance is evocative of an era long gone, can its ability to transport the wearer back in time be far behind? The answer couldn’t be much further from the affirmative if one were to look at things through the eyes, or more aptly, the nose of Chanel’s new master perfumer, Olivier Polge. Much like a storyteller, Polge took it upon himself to resurrect a story that needed to be told, one that represented a turning point in the life of Chanel’s creator, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. His first creation for the house, since his appointment as master perfumer in October 2014, is the recently launched Misia Perfume for women that encapsulates the classic 1920s era in Paris, and in particular, the legendary friendship shared between Chanel’s creator and Misia Sert, a patron of the arts.

talented polish pianist, known for hosting artistic salons with her husband, publisher of the La revue blanche magazine, at their home in Paris. Frequent participants at these gatherings included an impressive list of artists, musicians and intellectuals of the time including Marcel Proust, Claude Monet, PierreAuguste Renoir, Paul Signac, Claude Debussy and André Gide. Her second marriage also permitted her to continue playing hostess to the cream of Parisian society. Her social ties with the upper echelons of society were sustained across all three of her marriages, each of which assumed somewhat of a tumultuous angle. It appears that Sert, who grew up in bourgeoisie Paris, set aside her own worries and troubles to support the arts, as she effortlessly turned into a cultural icon and muse to many such

“A collector of geniuses, all of them in love with her,” was the manner in which writer Paul Morand once wrote of her magnetic appeal that charmed intellectuals and artists alike. Sert, whose third and final marriage was to the Spanish painter José María Sert, would also go on to model for several paintings by Renoir, sketches by Cocteau and a portrait for Pablo Picasso. It was in 1917 that the couturier Chanel met Sert at the home of actress Cécile Sorel. It was a chance meeting that would turn into a friendship, lasting until Sert’s death in 1950. The two became that much more inseparable, when Chanel grieved for the loss of her lover in a car accident in 1919. Sert, equally supportive of a friend in dire straits as she was with men and women of the art world, provided Chanel

Misia Sert, born in 1872 as Maria Zofia Olga Zenajda Godebska, was an exceptionally

luminaries as Proust, Jean Cocteau and Maurice Ravel during the ‘20s and ‘30s.

with immense emotional support. It was around this time that Sert — who once said

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MEMOIRS OF A MUSE

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...the new Chanel Misia fragrance is the epitome of the Sert-Chanel friendship set in one of history’s most artistically opulent periods

that she was drawn to Chanel’s genius, wit, sarcasm and maniacal destructiveness — began to introduce the designer to several influential figures in the bohemian

of Coco Chanel’s biggest muses. In part, its notes are reminiscent of the dressing-room scent of Les Ballet Russes, complete with the smell of theatrical powder and

elite. It was also at about this time that Chanel was introduced to the romantic city of Venice and its architecture: a milestone of sorts that can be credited to Sert — that later influenced many of the house’s collections. Delving deep into the avantgarde movement in the art scene of

makeup. At the same time, the scent is deeply rich, channelling the baroque style of the 1920s. But it is also one that is classic, like every timeless scent that comes out of the house of Chanel Fragrances. These multi-layered memories have been invoked through vibrant top notes of violet

Paris, Chanel shared a patronage and Rose de Mai from Grasse, with Sert for the Les Ballet Russes middle notes of Turkish rose and concert and for such figures as Igor iris, and base notes of Tonka bean Stravinsky, composer of some of the and sandalwood. ballet’s pieces. Sert’s association Olivier, the new nose of Chanel with Russian critic, ballet impresario Fragrances, is the latest in the line of and founder of the Ballet Russes, Chanel’s famed master perfumers. Sergei Diaghilev, goes back way a Following in the footsteps of long way. Not only was she involved his father, Jacques Polge, who in creative aspects of the operatic was head of Chanel’s fragrance ballet piece, offering her thoughts section since 1978, Olivier believes Creator of Chanel Misia, and Chanel’s new nose, Olivier Polge on its costume designs and that evocative fragrances don’t choreography, but she also funded stem from complex ideas; rather, his ballet company during particularly difficult marriages and more. Chanel would later they most originate from memories and times. When Diaghilev was on his deathbed in go on to design a stunning pink dress for experiences. When it comes to fashion or 1929, it was Sert who stayed by his side and Sert, which she was incidentally buried in. fragrances, the house of Chanel has always who went on to honour the man by funding It was, perhaps, the most fitting way for the been associated with timeless classicism his funeral. Such was Sert’s undying love for generous art patron to have left this world 21 portrayed through its unique syntax of style. the arts. years before her closest friend and famed Using key themes of heritage and the art It wasn’t just Sert who proved to be an couturier passed away. of storytelling across history, Chanel has inspiration for the couturier Chanel. There It can well be said that the new Chanel continually sought to revive the beauty of its were times when Sert, like many in her Misia fragrance is the epitome of the Sertpast. With the latest addition to the highartistic circle of friends and acquaintances, Chanel friendship set in one of history’s end Les Exclusifs de Chanel collection, the succumbed to the pressures of a bourgeoisie most artistically opulent periods. It is the new perfume, Misia, mirrors these values as lifestyle, and it was Chanel who stood by embodiment of an elegant personality — its joins 15 other fragrances that unveil an her friend through these especially rough periods that ranged from emotionally difficult

Sert was often referred to as the “Pink Muse of the Ballets Russes”, and a tribute to one

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important memory or character in the rich heritage of the house.

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SUC CESS BY DESIGN

Success by design

Classic luggage brand Tumi is amongst the most iconic brands of choice for the discerning traveller. As Tumi enters its 40th year of existence, the company remains closely associated with values such as simplicity, sophistication and innovation

To establish a brand in the 1970s and enjoy continued streaks of success is one thing. To be able to sustain a long-standing reputation of excellence right up to the present is totally another. Tumi, one of the world’s most iconic luggage brands, launched in 1975, best exemplifies this level of achievement. As the company celebrates 40 years of existence, there couldn’t, perhaps, be a better way to understand its success than to embark on a journey into its illustrious past — across trials and tribulations, milestones and more. Sometimes, all it takes to be able to run a successful venture are lessons in humility, even if one is armed with an MBA degree. This is what sparked off the idea behind the brand in the case of Tumi’s Founder and former CEO, Charlie Clifford. It was in 1967 that Clifford left his corporate job in New Jersey for a Peace Corps MBA programme in South America, where he started working with small businesses. And, it was during this period, from 1967 to 1969, that the seeds of his entrepreneurial disposition were sown. A good entrepreneur never forgets his roots. Using lessons learned during his stint

called Tumi, Clifford embarked on what would become one of the entrepreneurial world’s greatest success stories. It was in 1974, when he started selling rugged leather bags produced in Columbia, a move that provided start-up capital for what would become his future company, Tumi, the following year. One style in particular, crafted from plain leather with a rustic look and pungent aroma, was a hit with his North American market. Tumi has always been the face of continually evolving design, seen on its handcrafted leather bags of the ‘70s and its compartmentalised carry bags in the ‘80s and ‘90s. The brand’s philosophy, after all, is an artful blend of customer satisfaction and a desire to innovate. As the years went by, the price of a Tumi bag increased and the need for quality control was in order. It was at this time, during the early ‘80s, that the company switched over to a new, practically bulletproof fabric. Originally developed for WWII airmen, this soft, ultra-functional black-on-black ballistic nylon made its first appearance in the world of luggage thanks to Tumi’s innovative approach. In fact, over the years, the company went on to receive over

in South America, and by borrowing his brand name from a Peruvian ceremonial knife

125 patents, not just for product design but also for component parts.

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SUC CESS BY DESIGN

Even today, as the company celebrates its 40th anniversary, it has introduced a new collection, aptly titled “1975” that pays a tribute to its founding years. The collection embodies meticulous craftsmanship, technical innovation and functional superiority — qualities that the company was and continues to be reputed for. There are carry-ons, slim briefs, rucksacks, backpacks and square duffels, each crafted from natural full-grain American cowhide, inspired by Tumi’s South American-imported leather as well as its signature ballistic nylon. Released in 1975 pieces only, each bag bears a special limited edition embossed number. Like its continually evolving designs, the brand, too, has gone through various stages of evolution and change. In 1983, its carry-on garment bag revolutionised the philosophy of packing, pioneering a ‘from-your-closetto-your-bag-and-back’ approach. In 1985, Tumi developed a soft Napa leather bag collection for Bloomingdale’s, introducing itself to a larger demographic. By the ‘90s, the brand was selling well in Harrods, UK, and at its 90 stand-alone stores across Europe — in Germany, Brussels and Amsterdam, as well as at Printemps and Galeries Lafayette in Paris. But the arrival of the new millennium brought with it new worries; people were travelling less and sales were beginning to decline, forcing the company to layoff employees and to shift its manufacturing unit from Georgia to Asia. Clifford found himself questioning the future of his business at many such times. In 2004, he went on surrender the majority of his company to London-based private equity firm Doughty Hanson & Co, but stuck on as its largest individual shareholder. Tumi still remains the gold standard for travelling professions even after the man

and brand extensions, including wallets, eyewear, outerwear and electronics, might have appeared along the way. But along with these diversified offerings, the brand is still famously associated with its unique “U-zip pocket” design element. And, Tumi still holds its collaborations with artists and designers in high regard. In a move similar to two separate alliances in 2006 with artist Anish Kapoor and Italian carmaker Ducati, Tumi partnered graffiti artist John “Crash” Matos to launch the Tumi Tag Charity auction

the Travel & Leisure Award for Best Luggage for its Vapor collection that same year. In 2012, it collaborated with the award-winning industrial designer Dror Benshetrit to create a collection of expandable bags. Today, 40 years down the line, Tumi, led by CEO Jerome Griffith, is still no stranger to the discerning professional, be it a celebrity in America or a businessman in Dubai. As one of the world’s most upscale luggage brands that had its humble beginnings in a South American Peace Corps mission,

who built the brand from scratch left it in the hands of another in 2009. New styles

in benefit of the AIDS Community Research Initiative in America in 2011. Tumi also won

Tumi’s journey is, indeed, a timeless tale of triumph that’s far from over.

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The 1975 collection comprising carry-ons, slim briefs, rucksacks, backpacks and square duffels

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LA DOLCE VITA Curated with a passion A guide to the world’s highest standards of living, covering all aspects of a lifestyle that can be maintained by a lucky few. Whether it’s a life-changing trip to one of world’s natural wonders or an unforgettable gastronomic indulgence, the exclusivity of the experience is guaranteed

L A D O L C E V I TA

A CASE IN POINT

A CASE IN POINT A watch case, worthy of the contents it was crafted for, is a luxurious indulgence. But these protective cases are also perfect to keep your fine timepieces unscathed at home or when travelling

You may be well on your way to owning a precious collection of watches, some collector’s timepieces, too. Fine timepieces — such as cigars, a great pair of shoes, or even cufflinks — make for some of those small yet indispensable pleasures of life. It is only natural to want to care for luxurious buys as these so that they remain in the best condition possible when stored at

GLOBE-TROTTER If there were a brand that best epitomises the world of luxury travel, it would have to be the heritage brand Globe-Trotter, known for its top-of-the-line travel solutions crafted from luxury materials. The Globe-Trotter Luxe Watch Case can hold up to six watches at a time, and features a cushioned lid to protect your valuable watches placed inside. Portable

with the option of a three-piece or sixpiece version, OMEGA’s Symbol watch case is the watch house’s way of giving its loyal customer base a no-frills approach to keeping their timepieces safe and secure. Its clean design also makes it an enviable travel accessory. DOETTLING Doettling is reputed for its master crafted

home. It also becomes vital to safeguard your belongings, to keep them from harm during travel. A watch case, or box, in that case, becomes as necessary a purchase as any of your quality timepieces may be. Much like a preventive measure, a protective watch case keeps your timepiece free from damage caused by dust and scratches. There are many luxury watch cases that are designed to be waterproof and are shock resistant too, making them the perfect home for your particularly precious pieces during travel or even when placed in your drawer. Such indulgent watch cases take on the quality of being somewhat of a wardrobe essential. There’s nothing like coming home to a well-organised, presentable collection of timepieces, after all. Lucky for us, most of the luxury watch cases available today have been designed to offer complete justice to an equally luxurious collection of watches. Reflecting a high standard of craftsmanship, the body of most watch boxes are crafted from high-quality wood. The interiors, not

and magnificently high on style, the Luxe watch case is crafted from Urushi-lacquered vulcanised fibreboard with burgundy leather trimming, making it a stunning tribute to the rich tradition of craftsmanship in signature Globe-Trotter style. Its spacious interiors, set in Champagne silk, are made up of softcoated watch pillows that nestle on an ivory leather top tray, and an additional bottom tray for storing precious accessories like tie pins and cufflinks. LORO PIANA The Loro Piana My Time watch case, crafted from highly durable Norwegian leather called Fjord, is perfect for collectors and frequent travellers alike. Six timepieces are comfortably accommodated in the plush velvet-lined case’s specially designed pockets that are separated by a cashmere felt cushion. This watch case from Loro Piana, a brand that offers the ultimate in luxury fabric, is an ode to the finer things in life. OMEGA Your timepiece will be treated to nothing but the best in protection, if placed in the

high-security modern and antique vaults. The near century-old company’s Guardian travel case can hold up to six watches as well as important documents, money or jewellery. The Guardian is the vanguard of watch cases, simply because it is crafted from materials as hard as a diamond and that can destroy tools like drills. This lightweight, portable tube-shaped case also incorporates a GPS transmitter for precise location and a safe door that can only be bolted open with a three-digit code. BUBEN & ZORWEG If you’re going to go all out with your luxury timepieces, then you cannot really pull the stops on investing in an exceptional storage solution. Buben & Zorweg, a company dedicated to delighting lovers of luxury with its uniquely crafted vaults, offers a line of watch cases for luxury timepiece aficionados. Guaranteeing the highest level of safety and protection, the Buben & Zorweg Traveller watch case, in particular, holds two timepieces within its black velour interior. Hand stitched in high-quality leather,

unlike a lavishly cushioned pillow, are often luxuriously padded.

Symbol watch case by Swiss watchmaker OMEGA. Available in black and brown,

this watch case is sought after for its svelte design and portability.

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My Time, a watch case by Loro Piana in Fjord leather

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SUPREME SPLENDOUR BOUTIQUE The watchmaking powerhouse has persistently proved that challenges present fascinating prospects that are worthy of exploration. On 29 January 2015, Swiss luxury watch manufacture Ulysse Nardin and its exclusive retail partner in the UAE, Bin Hendi Enterprises, opened doors to the watch brand’s largest boutique in the world at the Dubai Mall. A highlight of the launch was an exhibition held between the 28-31 January showcasing the brand’s extraordinary melodic marvel, the ‘Vivaldi’ watch. The chronometer had its preview before making an official debut at the Baselworld 2015. Ulysse Nardin paid tribute to its nautical history by hosting a rope untangling in lieu of the usual ribbon-cutting. Blue is the colour of royalty and mystery. The Royal Blue is another one of Ulysse Nardin’s latest creations — a mystery tourbillon of incomparable sophistication, combining aesthetics with the art of automated watchmaking.

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A HOMELY SOJOURN HOTEL Designedly contemporary, the Meliá Doha is apt for business as well as leisure. Immersed in culture, excitement and unveiling a new side to the Middle East, the spirit of the Meliá brand permeates the atmosphere at the hotel. Enjoy a selection of amenities and services that will surpass the expectations of even the brand’s most distinguished guests. The property is in close proximity to Hamad International Airport, and also offers easy access to Qatar’s financial, shopping and political district, as well as the Corniche. Boasting plush rooms and suites, Meliá Doha houses three distinct restaurants: Signature serves Indian cuisine with a contemporary twist; Aceite Restaurant serves Spanish tapas; and Nidaaya All Day Dining Restaurant serves international cuisine with live cooking stations. Complementing this tempting gastronomic experience, the property also features Noir, a cocktail bar and Le Pool Club, a casual venue for snacks and drinks.

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PASSION TO PAMPER S PA Promising a relaxed and friendly environment, quality treatments are at the heart of the brand’s ideology, and comfort was key when it came to designing the impressive venue extending over 3,400 sq ft. Jazz Lounge Spa boasts an extensive treatment menu that offers everything from nail care to facials, massages, Moroccan baths, Turkish baths and hair services. Only the best quality of products are used, including Pevonia, Morjana, L’Oreal and Kerastase. Luxurious Natuzzi Italian leather chairs offer comfort at each mani/pedi station, while Takara Belmont chairs occupy the hair section. The sleek and retro contemporary furniture is effortlessly counterbalanced by raw, yet welcoming, earthy-toned design, with old-school jazz icons and musical instruments adding the final touches.

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