Signe - Edition 32 by Signé

AED 30 KWD 2.5 QAR 30

S I G N É

MONTEGRAPPA’S MASTERMIND

WHAT MAKES MONTEGR A PPA EXPERTS IN THE ART OF DESIGNING PENS?

PARFUMÈ NATURELLE

THE HIDDEN STORY OF HENRY JACQUES, THE HAUTE PARFUMERIE

A POOLSIDE ADVENTURE

ADAM BROWN’S UNCONVENTIONAL PATH THAT TURNED HIS DREAM INTO A REALITY AND BROUGHT ORLEBAR BROWN TO AN ENVIABLE POSITION IN THE FASHION WORLD

TRIBUTE TO SPEED Ferrari exceeds its accomplishments with the new 812 Superfast, an exercise in superlatives

Big Bang Unico Red Magic. Case in vibrantly-coloured and patented red ceramic. In-house UNICO chronograph movement. Limited edition of 500 pieces.

hublot.com

JAGUAR F-PACE

HOW MUCH PERFORMANCE CAN YOU HANDLE?

Distinctive. Powerful. Dynamic. The Jaguar F-PACE speaks for itself. With a new range of engines including an Ingenium 2.0 litre 4 cylinder Petrol now offering up to 250PS, along with the remarkable 3.0 litre V6 380PS Supercharged Petrol, capable of 0-100 km/h in just 5.5 seconds. A dramatic drive combined with everyday practicality. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no mistaking F-PACE for anything but a Jaguar. Al Tayer Motors Dubai, Sharjah, Ras Al Khaimah, Fujairah Premier Motors Abu Dhabi, Musaffah, Al Ain 800 MOTORS (800 668677) Jaguar-uae.com

CALIBER RM 030

YOUR FINEST

CHOCOLATE HOST

patchi.com

PARFUMÈ NATURELLE

Henry Jacques, the haute parfumerie opens its door to Signé and tells us its hidden story

THE STYLE EDIT

Fashion-forward buys, picked by Signé for you

DOUBLE NOMINATION We tell you more about Givenchy’s Artistic Director Clare Waight Keller who recently received double nominations for the 2018 British Fashion Awards

FUNCTIONAL LUXURY

LUXURY STREETWEAR

A review of Ermenegildo Zegna’s XXX Global Counterculture Collection

Orlebar Brown’s founder Adam Brown gives Signé an insight into the brand and the man himself

A compilation of the best Monk-Strap shoes from MR PORTER that every man should own

A brief look into what makes Cashmere the special fibre that it is

An exclusive talk with Philippe Belais, Owner and CEO of Claude Meylan watches

Chopard’s Happy Leather Collection encapsulates the elegance of craftsmanship and a free-spirited attitude

ACCESSORIES OF THE SEASON

We bring you a selection of high-end accessories from Tateossian London perfect for gifting this holiday season

AN AMALGAMATION OF ENGINEERING AND ART

The ‘Spirit of Ecstasy’ Fabergé Egg is an exceptional display of creativity and craftsmanship

Nick Foulkes speaks to Signé about his new book written to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Alhambra by Van Cleef & Arpels

ALHAMBRA TURNS 50

ETHICAL FASHION

FRAGRANCE FILE

An in-depth look at Salvatore Ferragamo’s commitment to Sustainability

Our favourite fragrance selections for the season

VALLÈE RENEW

HANDCRAFTED HAPPINESS

CASHMERE AFFAIR

Vacheron Constantin pays a tribute to the golden era of watchmaking with The Fiftysix Tourbillon

THE BEST FOOT FORWARD

Aesop’s Dubai kit, the ideal travel kit for urban-dwellers

AESTHETIC MECHANISM

A POOLSIDE ADVENTURE

AN ENGINEERING MARVEL

The Horological Machine N°9 ‘Flow’ from MB&F is a unique masterpiece. We get into the mechanical details of this gem

MONTEGRAPPA’S MASTERMIND

A talk with Montegrappa CEO Giuseppe Aquila about the art of designing pens

A BRITISH AFFAIR

The Limited-Edition Aston Martin Q Rapide S by Hackett speaks performance and style

TRIBUTE TO SPEED

Ferrari pushes the boundaries of its own achievements with the new 812 Superfast

LET’S SET SAIL

Bvlgari unveil their first Yacht Club and Marina at Dubai’s Jumeira Bay

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SHA Wellness Clinic offers a holistic healing process through a unique blend of traditional and modern treatments

Hunters Room and Grill is a Steakhouse like no other

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ALAN’S T’ANG

A MEAT LOVER’S PARADISE

A FUSION LIKE NO OTHER

A LUXURIOUS ADVENT

CAYENNE EVOLUTION

We take you through the three generations of the triumphant Porsche Cayenne

MR PORTER brings you a curated edit of the must-have grooming products for the holiday season

COLOR CODED LIVING Inspire your home with the warmth of Fall/Winter colors

RESTING MEAT

“MAN-PERING”

1847, Dubai’s popular male grooming brand, expands its hold in the Emirates

ATLANTIS 2.0+

BEST OF ECO-TOURISM

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We bring you a selection of our favourite must-have items this season

‘The Restaurant’ at Address Downtown is a feast for all your senses

Whitepod Alpine Resort and Switzerland make the perfect combination for eco-tourism

The Royal Atlantis at the Palm promises a unique luxury experience in the sky

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Meet Artem Login, the young, dynamic cofounder and CEO of L’ETO Café and Secret Garden by L’ETO

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CITY ESCAPE

OBJECTS OF DESIRE

We delve into why it is essential to rest meat after cooking

L’ETO’S SECRET

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Chef Alan Sun tells us in depth about him and the cuisine Cantonese that he specializes in

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CELEBRATING THE EMIRATES

The UAE Flag Collection from Forever Rose London honours the UAE’s national day

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F A S H I O N · D O U B L E N O M I N AT I O N

DOUBLE NOMINATION Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller has received double nominations for the 2018 British Fashion Awards “It was absolutely simple: pure, sculptural, with a wide boatneck, long sleeves and sweeping train. It was Meghan Markle’s wedding dress. It was haute couture by Clare Waight Keller for Givenchy, a British woman who was the first female designer of the storied French brand. And it was everything people had hoped,” wrote Vanessa Friedman of the New York Times. Born in Birmingham, England, on August 19, 1970, Clare received a Bachelor of Arts degree from the Ravensbourne College of Art and a master’s degree in knitwear from the Royal College of Art in London. Impressed by the strength of her graduate collection, she was snapped up by Calvin Klein as a designer. In New York, she thrived, and was soon promoted to designing the brand’s women’s ready-to-wear collection. After four years, she moved to Paris, and to Ralph Lauren, as head designer for its men’s Purple Label collection. In 2000, she was approached by Tom Ford to join Gucci as a senior designer for women’s ready-to-wear and accessories collections, working alongside Christopher Bailey and Francisco Costa. In 2005, Clare became the creative director of Pringle of Scotland, the famed brand specialising in cashmere knitwear and holding the royal warrant as manufacturers of knitted garments. Under her directorship, the House’s style and knitwear heritage were redefined to great critical acclaim, even orchestrating its first fashion show in 2006. In 2007, Clare was named “Designer of the Year” in the cashmere category at the Scottish Fashion Awards. In 2011, she moved to Paris once again and took the helm as creative director at Chloé, where she reinvented a romantic, feminine and radiant design signature for the house that was true to its codes while also being current. Her 1970s-inspired creations, in particular, proved to be a commercial success. Her tenure resulted in a reinvigoration of the brand not seen since the days of Phoebe Philo.

In 2017, Clare was appointed as the artistic director of Givenchy, responsible for the brand’s overall global image, men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, children’s wear, accessories collections, and of course, haute couture and Meghan Markle’s wedding dress. The Royal Palace, in a statement, expressed the reasoning behind choosing Clare for the wedding dress: “After meeting Ms. Waight Keller in early 2018, Ms. Markle chose to work with her for her timeless and elegant aesthetic, impeccable tailoring, and relaxed demeanour. Ms. Markle also wanted to highlight the success of a leading British talent who has now served as the creative head of three globally influential fashion houses—Pringle of Scotland, Chloé, and now Givenchy.” The same Clare Waight Keller of ‘the Royal wedding dress’ fame has been twice nominated by the British Fashion Council for the 2018 British Fashion Awards. Clare is a finalist for British Designer of the Year-Womenswear and International Designer of the Year awards given that she represents Givenchy. Given Clare’s impressive achievements at some of the most prestigious fashion brands, the double British Fashion Awards nominations seem completely justified, and some may argue, overdue. The nominations were announced on October 28 at a press screening at Soho House, London, by Stephanie Phair, Chairman of the British Fashion Council (BFC), Nadja Swarovski, a member of the Swarovski executive board and Caroline Rush, Chief Executive of the British Fashion Council. The British Designer of the Year Womenswear award “celebrates the womenswear designer who has been instrumental in innovating and leading women’s fashion over the last year, excelling both creatively and commercially and creating an impressive footprint on the global fashion stage.” The International Designer of the Year award “recognises a designer whose innovative collections have made a notable impact on the industry and defined the shape of global fashion,” according to the BFC. This year’s Awards is scheduled on December 10 at a charity gala at Royal Albert Hall in London.

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Clare Waight Keller, Artistic Director, Givenchy

Image by: Steven Meisel

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FASHION · A POOLSIDE ADVENTURE

A POOLSIDE ADVENTURE Orlebar Brown’s founder Adam Brown gave Signé an insight into his unconventional path to success “I was one of those people who left college with absolutely no idea about what I wanted to do,” says Adam Brown, the founder of the rapidly expanding men’s summer-wear brand Orlebar Brown. Launched in 2007, and based in London, the brand has created a niche market for itself by being the first to offer a tailored approach to men’s swim shorts which can be worn on the beach or by the pool, and yet is smart enough to be worn to a lunch or for a drink. The brand has recently opened its first store in The Dubai Mall offering a wide range of selections as well as its signature customization options. Adam, who shared some of his life experiences with Signé on his latest visit to Dubai, is a living proof that believing in clichés like ‘following your dreams’ can, on occasions, bear rich dividends. After graduation, “I worked in the voluntary sector fundraising for UK charities,” he told Signé. But his passion for photography beckoned and he “worked as a photographer for seven years doing portraits for magazines, corporate, and private clients.” However, “when I was around 40 years old, I realised that I was never going to get the high-paying advertising jobs, so I began to look for what’s next.” In 2005, Adam was invited to a friend’s 40th birthday in Rajasthan. He said, “The idea for Orlebar came to me when I had to change for lunch. I realised that I didn’t want swim shorts, I wanted shorts that I can swim in. I had this idea for two or three years prior but had never resolved to doing anything until that particular moment.” For the next 18 months, Adam set about bringing his dream into reality. “I first did a three day ‘start your own fashion business’ course where I learned about the seasons, sourcing, basic cash flow and all those elements to put a business together. Then I did a course at St. Martins just so I could map out a garment from which someone could make a pattern. I had no experience

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Adam Brown, Orlebar Brown Founder

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FASHION · A POOLSIDE ADVENTURE

“The idea for Orlebar came to me when I had to change for lunch. I realised that I didn’t want swim shorts, I wanted shorts that I can swim in.” Adam Brown

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and no contacts, but I knew I had to find the right suppliers of fabric, zips, cardboard boxes and so on, and a factory that could make us the right pair of shorts; of the quality, fit and size that I was happy with.” Finally, “I had to get a website built.” The finance required for this venture was “forty thousand pounds from my savings, and from a mortgage against my flat.” While some may call Adam’s game plan a very risky gamble, he feels he had hedged his bet. “I took the view that if nobody bought the shorts, I’d go and sell them at cost on a market stall and I’d get my money back. So, the risk was actually not that great.” But people did buy into his concept, repeatedly. “Once you have customers come back to you for a second pair then you start feeling confident about your idea.” The next big leap came when Selfridges of London began stocking Orlebar Brown. “I used to go and stand on the shop floor every Saturday and Sunday to meet and talk to the customers, to get their feedback. And it’s still true today; I read every mail from our cus and the holiday feeling that is intrinsic to the brand. Given that Orlebar Brown started as an online store, the brand has embraced technology like few others. “We went online first because that was the only option open to us. But I think going online set a precedent for us, and it has definitely influenced how we’re going to go forward. The feedback, for example, is instant online and you can change a particular product or a story if it isn’t selling.” Adam has also tapped into his passion for Photography and combined it with technology to provide a genuinely signature service. The brand pioneered the use of photographic prints from Getty Images’ on their hero swim shorts. This service was expanded to offer customisation, whereby customers can have their beloved pictures printed on their shorts. Adam explained the process: “When a customer brings a photograph to the store for printing, it is uploaded onto an iPad where we make some basic adjustments before sending it to our design team for additional adjustments such as brightness, colour, placement of the image and so on. Once it is approved by the customer, the image is printed onto any of the shorts on offer and delivered in about six weeks.”

While technology undoubtedly has its benefits, it has also given rise to a new class of consumers who are not particularly known for their brand loyalty. Orlebar Brown, however, is in an enviable position. “65 per cent of our customers come back every year. And that’s not specific to the U.K. or U.S., that’s across the board.” This is because “men shop in a way that is di fferent from women. Once men find a style that works for them, they will come back time and time again, but they always want newness in fabric or some other detail. We have also shown that even though our typical customer, the 35 to 50-year-old man, is not traditionally thought to shop online, is definitely shopping online and is also repeatedly buying online.” Thanks to these loyal customers, the brand has grown impressively. Growth always comes with expansion and diversification which can dilute or confuse a brand’s identity. “There are two ways of looking at our brand. You either look at us as a product-led brand that does marketing, or you can think of us as an experience type of brand that makes products. I think the second one gives us way more opportunities going forward.” These opportunities include “art, music, and photography events which fits our brand’s ethos while giving the customers an emotional attachment” to the brand. “We are exploring the kinds of places where Orlebar Brown can interact with its customer. Given our brand identity, the beach or by a pool with music, cocktails, friends, family and laughter is an obvious choice. But we are not a big party central type of brand”, explains Adam. Loyalists of the brand in the Middle-East region and Dubai, in particular, can look forward to not only a more engaging experience with Orlebar Brown but also improved services; given its importance to the brand. Dubai “is our biggest market in this area. We’ve just opened our first outlet, and so the potential for growth is huge. Web deliveries to Dubai are in the top 15, and that’s without a solid delivery proposition. Over the next 12 months, we’re looking at same-day delivery and other services that people are used to here. And of course, we’ve got a fantastic partner with Seddiqi & Sons’ Mizzen giving us a lot of support.”

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FASHION · CASHMERE AFFAIR

CASHMERE AFFAIR Here is a brief look into what makes cashmere so special as a fibre “All a woman needs to be chic is a raincoat, two suits, a pair of trousers and a cashmere sweater,” Hubert de Givenchy once said. Softer than the softest wool, smooth to the touch as silk, sensuously cosy as an evening by the fireplace; such is the seductive power of that most elusive and luxurious of wardrobe chic - cashmere. It is born not from sheep, but from the soft undercoat of goats indigenous to the Himalayan highlands. The immensely harsh winters of the region mean that the goats have a double fleece: an outer layer made of coarser hair that protects against moisture, and an undercoat made of ultra-fine hair with such exceptional insulating properties that it is capable of keeping the goats warm in -30°C temperatures. The underside of the neck is where the longest and finest fibres grow; from which come forth the softest, most luxurious cashmere fibres. The harvesting of the fibres takes place in Spring when the goats naturally shed their coats. The fibres are collected through an arduous and time-consuming process. They are cleaned to get rid of any top hair or dirt, and then are segregated into different grades of quality based on thickness, length and colour of the fibres. The best cashmere fibre, graded A, is the thinnest, 7 to 14 microns, and also the longest, upto 36 mm. The lowest quality fibre, grade C, is around 30 microns. A typical sheep’s wool has a diameter of around 36 microns. Genuine cashmere is extremely expensive due to the difficulty in collecting it and due to its scarcity. On an average, a cashmere

goat generates around 150 grams of fibres annually while it takes around 300 grams to make a sweater. Overall, only around 6,000 tonnes of cashmere are produced globally in a year, as compared to the over one million tonnes for natural wool. Today China is the largest producer of cashmere, followed by Mongolia, Nepal, India, Pakistan and Iran. Australia, New Zealand and Scotland also possess large cashmere goat breeding farms. Once the fibres are extracted, they are dyed and spun into yarns. They can then be knit or woven into fabrics from which come premium suits or accessories. The most established companies for manufacturing yarns and knitting are located in Italy and Scotland. Ermenegildo Zegna, Loro Piana Cashmere, Brunello Cucinelli, Pringle of Scotland, Sofia Cashmere, Ballantyne and Kinross Cashmere are some of the most respected names dealing in high-grade cashmere. However, in recent years the world has witnessed the emergence of lower cost and often much lower quality cashmere from China. Another source of ‘cheaper’ cashmere is when cashmere fibres are mixed with other fibres in varying proportions. In such cases, the manufacturer is obligated to list the ingredients and their respective percentages. Given that there are grades of cashmere fibres, a product labelled “100% cashmere” may also be misleading if only the lowest grade fibres are used. High-quality cashmere, when compared to wool, is lighter, insulates three to eight times better, retains its shape better, and is much more durable if treated appropriately.

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Goats from the Himalayan highlands

Raw, cleaned cashmere from Springtide Farm in Bremen

Cashmere sweaters

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FASHION · ACCESSORIES FOR THE SEASON

ACCESSORIES FOR THE SEASON Tateossian London offers men the perfect high-end accessories for this holiday season As we approach the holiday season, we also approach the season of gift-giving. This year, men’s accessories are definitely on top of our list. Love them or loathe them, men’s jewellery has been used throughout history to project one’s status and refinement, particularly among the elite, and it holds true even today. Men’s jewellery may simply be defined as all accessories in addition to the articles of clothing and includes watches, bracelets, rings, tie bars, necklaces, cufflinks, and earrings. The watch is arguably the most essential accessory and forms the base on

which all the other accessories are selected. Their function is to complement one’s outfit and the watch, and never to distract from it. With innovation, creativity and quality as their core values, Tateossian London was founded by Robert Tateossian in 1990 to offer men, and women, a distinctive way to express their personality and style through unique, refined and meticulously crafted accessories. Our selections for this festive season showcase some of the bestsellers from the Tateossian collection.

BRACELETS Bracelets should be a counter-balance to one’s watch. Therefore, its band and clasp must complement that of the watch. Although less is generally better, combinations of more than one may be used as long as the colour combination complements the overall look. Leather, wood or other organic materials are best paired with casual and business casual outfits while metal bracelets are better as singles and for formal occasions.

Asteroid Matte Bracelet The Asteroid Matte bracelet combines lava beads with ruthenium plated sterling silver lava beads in their original form for a contemporary ‘lunar’ look.

Charles Bracelet The Charles Bracelet has a sleek, masculine matte finished clasp combined with tightly woven Italian leather in three different combinations: ruthenium with navy leather, rose gold with brown leather, and rhodium with black leather.

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Montecarlo Bracelet The Montecarlo Bracelet’s clasp has a sheet of alutex foil covered with translucent enamel which is contrasted by sterling silver on both sides. It is combined with the dualtoned double wrap of genuine black braided Italian leather and is available in a wide range of colours.

Havana Silver Bracelet The Havana Silver Bracelet combines beads of frosted semi-precious stones and Italian leather to form a double wrap multi-textural bracelet with a pop silver clasp and is available in Sodalite, Red Jasper, Brown Jasper and Snowflake Obsidian.

CUFFLINKS Cufflinks must be worn only for the most formal occasions, always with a suit, and a shirt with French cuffs. Once again, they must complement the other accessories. Because cufflinks are becoming rarer, they are an easy way to stand out from the crowd, especially with novelty cufflinks.

Britannia Gear Square Cufflinks The Britannia Gear Square Cufflinks by Tateossian is unique, made from varying sizes of gears in different platings that rotate freely by gently moving the gage. The base metal is Rhodium plated while each gear has hand painted enamel in various colourful shades to represent the union jack.

Mechanical Eagle Cufflinks Mechanical Eagle Cufflinks offer a subtle sparkle of Swarovski Elements in the eagle eyes and incorporates a movement that is reflective of their real-life motions. They have an oxidised finish on rhodium plated base metal.

Carbon Tablet Cufflinks Carbon Tablet Cufflinks are inspired by racing cars. Each has a piece of coloured fibreglass with a carbon fibre effect that is layered with clear enamel. It is housed in a round case with diamond etching and enamel wrapping around.

Globe Cufflinks Globe Cufflinks, a best-seller with a fully rotational colourful globe features an assortment of semi-precious stones that make up its different colourful components. It is contained within a circular sterling silver cage and has a whale back cufflink fitting.

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FASHION · ETHICAL FASHION

ETHICAL FASHION An in-depth look at Salvatore Ferragamo’s commitment to Sustainability The Rainbow sandal, one of the icons of the Salvatore Ferragamo brand, was originally made in suede in 1938 for -actress Judy Garland. The new limitededition Rainbow Future shoe draws its lineage from the legendary Rainbow sandal while also exemplifying the brand’s commitment to “Made in Italy.” However, Rainbow Future’s true hallmark is that it is the first Ferragamo to fully comply with the brand’s commitment to sustainable development. The Rainbow Future shoe is, therefore, the embodiment of Salvatore Ferragamo’s past, present, and future. Presented as a limited-edition of 100 pairs, Rainbow Future is a hand-finished platform in veritable wood and crafted in organic crocheted cotton that complies with Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). By applying the Layertech technology, the production of its leather lining resulted in no CO2 emission or water consumption. Its glue is water-based, brass is non-galvanized, and its sewing thread is from 100 per cent recycled material. The shoe is then packed in 100 per cent recyclable FSC cardboard shoeboxes and wrapped in 100 per cent biodegradable cotton bags. Each pair of shoes will be accompanied by a limited-edition certificate, describing its history, and its unique characteristics. Rainbow Future has obtained the ISO 14067 certification, which means that it is possible to calculate the emissions resulting from its manufacture, and therefore, it is possible to compensate for the emissions through reforestation programmes, thus making the shoe carbon neutral. To fulfil these reforestation obligations, Salvatore Ferragamo has teamed up with Treedom, a Florence based firm specialising in agroforestry projects and CO2 compensation. Treedom will plant 100 orange trees on the outskirts of Catania, Sicily, using environment-friendly processes. A code written on each shoe’s certificate will link each pair of

Rainbow Future with a particular tree. Clients will be able to follow the tree’s life and development at www.Treedom.net. Rainbow Future is an in-depth demonstration, as well as a realisation, of Salvatore Ferragamo group’s conviction that sustainability must be an integral part of their development strategies and that they must be implemented as a longterm goal. To this end, the group implemented a corporate social responsibility (CCR) program several years ago, and in 2017, the group published its second annual Sustainability Report covering the entire Group. The report was prepared in accordance with the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) promoted by the United Nations. Here are some of the highlights from Ferragamo’s 2017 CCR. The Group’s Sustainability Plan sets six main targets, by which, specific initiatives will be pursued over three years. The macro-areas on which the group’s commitment focuses are Made in Italy; Products and relationships with suppliers; Territory and Culture; Environment; and People. “Our people are the very essence of our Brand, and this is why we are committed to celebrating their professionalism and individuality, offering them opportunities for growth, well-being and respect,” stated Ferruccio Ferragamo, the Group’s Chairman in the CCR report. This commitment to the health and safety of its people, at all its production sites and stores in Italy, resulted in the awarding of the Occupational Health and Safety Assessment Series (OHSAS) 18001 certification in 2017. It has drawn up plans to extend the scope of this certification in the forthcoming years. On the environmental protection front, the group focused on reducing consumption and qualifying for important environmental certifications for its facilities. One of these facilities is the new logistics hub under construction in Florence which has been designed to be efficient enough for a LEED Platinum

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Julianne Moore (R) with Ferruccio Ferragamo, President and Chairman of Salvatore Ferragamo, at The Green Carpet Fashion Awards

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FASHION · ETHICAL FASHION

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Rainbow Future shoes by Salvatore Ferragamo inspired by the principles of sustainability

certification. Another is the Modelleria for men’s and women’s leather goods which opened last November. This state-ofthe-art atelier underwent comprehensive redevelopment and renovation to minimise energy consumption and emissions, to optimise energy absorption and to use renewable energy via a new solar power system. In October 2017, the historic Canton Road store in Hong Kong received LEED Gold certification, followed by the Troy store in Michigan, which received a LEED Silver certification. In November 2017, the group joined the Alleanza per l’Economia Circolare, an Italian alliance promoting circular economy. Ferragamo’s approach in this regard is to make its products last longer, by investing in quality and thereby reducing waste. Salvatore Ferragamo sees its “Made in Italy” commitment as a responsible way of doing business because it rewards local artisanal excellence which in turn generates positive value and protects Italy’s unique know-how and heritage. Concluding the report, Ferruccio stated, “My father used to say that there is always something more beautiful and more perfect to create. More than an affirmation, this is a call to action to strive for continuous improvement and raise the bar even higher, to promote a responsible business every day, based on respect for people, the territory, the environment and the community.”

In September 2018, Salvatore Ferragamo took part in the second edition of the Green Carpet Fashion Awards, in Milan, dedicated to celebrating outstanding achievements of the fashion and luxury industry in the field of sustainability. Paul Andrew, Women’s Creative Director of Salvatore Ferragamo, accompanied Oscar-winning actress Julianne Moore on the ‘green’ carpet. She wore a long jersey dress specially created for the occasion, made of perPETual, an innovative material made from plastic recovered from the seas and transformed into yarn through a patented polymerisation process. The dress was enriched by a handbag, a pair of sculpted heel sandals in GOTS-certified silk, and metal-free leather certified Oekotex 100 ‘first class.’ For its efforts, Salvatore Ferragamo was presented with another feather for its sustainability hat: the Art of Craftsmanship prize. “To receive this award is a great honour for me and my family,” said Ferruccio at the ceremony. “Since the beginning of his career, my father was greatly interested in alternative materials, which he always interpreted in creative, new ways. Today, to their unexpected charm we must add a characteristic of paramount importance – responsible innovation. The creation of sustainable value for the future of the planet and, for all of us is positive and necessary for every company.”

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FASHION

THE STYLE EDIT

Persol, Light Tortoiseshell and black with green lenses

Bally, Stripe Wool Mix Scarf

Etro, Floral Print Shirt

Berluti, Volume Medium Patchwork Calf Leather Backpack

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THE STYLE EDIT Ermenegildo Zegna, XXX Leather Clutch

Alfred Dunhill, Leather Belt

Etro, Silk Paisley Tie Hackett, Cardigan

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FASHION · LUXURY STREETWEAR

LUXURY STREETWEAR Ermenegildo Zegna’s XXX Couture is a Global Counterculture Collection Ermenegildo Zegna’s Artistic Director, Alessandro Sartori, has crafted an unconventional uniform for the modern countercultural tribe; branded as XXX. Smart, bold, with an expressive logo to match, XXX is “the most daring expression to date” of Ermenegildo Zegna. William Chan and Sehun, genre-defying stars whose styles are known for challenging conventional rules and codes, represent the brand’s international, multi-tiered campaign. The vision for the XXX collection is, says Sartori, to “match the identity of society’s boldest and most visionary members. An extension of what I presented at the fashion show, this is a new tribe whose members travel across time-zones, genres, and styles.” The result? Silhouettes, colours, and styling that break the expected codes of streetwear as well as tailoring to convey the boldest expression of Zegna.

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Ermenegildo Zegna XXX Campaign

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FASHION · LUXURY STREETWEAR

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Ermenegildo Zegna XXX Collection

Named after the three classic tailoring stitches on a suit’s lapel, the XXX is Zegna’s most universal collection to date and comprises of everyday icons that fuse refined tailoring with the versatility of streetwear to create something iconic. It also comprises of accessories and footwear; from graphic bomber jackets to hand-stitched, high-top sneakers. The collection unveiling started in September, with launch events for the “XXX tribe” in Seoul, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Miami. In the States, the Italian luxury brand has launched an exclusive partnership with Farfetch to release the Ermenegildo

Zegna XXX U.S. capsule collection on the luxury fashion shopping platform. In the U.S., the entire bold range of pieces from the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX collection is now available in Miami, New York, L.A., Zegna.com and on Farfetch. The capsules and core collection are also available worldwide via a temporary JD pop-up. For each country, XXX has been crafted to cater to the unique sartorial moods and trends of the region. In this way, the design of the core collection and capsules both unite the global XXX tribe and celebrate the diversity of its appeal.

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FASHION · THE BEST FOOT FORWARD

Santoni Leather Shoes AED 3128 This Santoni style has been expertly handmade in Italy from burnished-leather that’s polished to a nice shine.

THE BEST FOOT FORWARD We bring you a selection of Monk-Strap specials from MR PORTER The exact origins of the monk strap shoes are unclear. It was first registered as a design for the first time in 1901. It quickly became a staple in a gentleman’s wardrobe. In the Mediterranean countries, there is a tendency to wear double monks with the straps partially or completely unbuckled to project a nonchalant look. There have been many variants of the monk strap, but the single is the original with the double strap also being

fashionable. There have also been three or more strap designs in varying styles. To avoid the shoes being dated, it is always a safe bet to go with the classic original which in this case is the one strap. MR PORTER, the award-winning online retail destination for men’s style, has some of the best Monk-strap shoes available. Here is a compilation of our favourites from MR PORTER that every man should own.

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Balenciaga Leather Shoes AED 2892 Cobbled in Italy from croc-effect leather, they’re embellished with the brand’s scrawled signature in the form of gleaming gold plaques.

Berluti Venezia leather Shoes AED 7706 This sophisticated pair is cut from the brand’s Venezia leather that’s hand-treated by expert craftsmen to create a distinct patina.

Officine Creative ‘Princeton’ Shoes AED 1943 This pair has been made in Italy from rich brown suede.

O’Keeffe’s ‘Bristol’ Leather Shoes AED 2495 These are made in Italy from raw vegetable-tanned leather that’s handpolished for three hours to create the subtle black-to-merlot ombré finish.

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FASHION · HANDCRAFTED HAPPINESS

HANDCRAFTED HAPPINESS Chopard launched the new Happy Leather collection of shoulder bags, handbags and clutches Chopard’s iconic Happy Diamonds jewellery collection is as timeless as it is playful and gets its name from the diamonds that gently dance and twirl within their casing. The collection comprises of rings, bracelets, necklaces, pendants and earrings. The concept was then applied to Chopard’s watches and resulted in the creation of an exquisite haute-horlogerie collection. Inspired by the success of the Happy Diamond concept, Chopard has launched the Happy leather collection comprising three lines of bags that “encapsulate the distinguished elegance of hand craftsmanship, incredibly chic and a free-spirited attitude. The entire Happy Diamonds spirit beats at the heart of this must-have accessory collection.” “A woman’s bag is not just a fashion accessory but an indispensable part of her wardrobe, accompanying her through her daily life. From choosing an outfit to suit the requirements of a specific event, a bag sets the perfect finishing touch to her appearance.” - Chopard The three lines of bags comprise of the shoulder bag, the handbag and the clutch. A precious rose gold-plated clasp

transforms each of these three functional objects into a fullfledged piece of jewellery. Inside the clasp are dancing gems whirling between two sapphire crystals. The three lines of this collection are available in versions of gems such as mother-ofpearl, malachite and opal. Based on a patented technique, each gem is housed in a metal capsule with a bevelled base. This design enables the stones to enjoy perfect freedom of movement while spinning on their own axis. The dancing stones whirl against a fine guilloché rose goldplated background which catches the light in full flight and enhances its sunny radiance. This precious, luminous and playful clasp resembles a lucky charm ‘eye’ representing the crowning glory of the three lines of accessories that are meticulously hand-crafted. The Happy Diamonds concept transformed the Maison’s watch, jewellery into talismans. The leather accessories now experience the same effect. Chopard interprets the shoulder bag, the handbag and the clutch through various colours and finishes, playing with very different aesthetics and effects. The Happy leather line offers

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a choice of caviar leather, smooth leather, as well as leather quilting and patchwork. The graphic design of the latter two techniques pays tribute to the sparkle of the most precious gem of all by picking up the ridges of a facetted diamond. The patchwork bag features four different types of leather in shades ranging from cherry red to blush pink. It is a true masterpiece of its kind highlighting the savoir-faire involved. No less than 27 pieces of leather go into the making of a patchwork bag, including 18 for the main body. Given that each component is fitted and adjusted during the production process, the artisans capable of crafting such a bag possess peerless expertise stemming from longstanding experience. Chopard has designed this collection based on a commitment to selecting the finest possible materials, notably giving pride of place to full-grain leather. Any exceptional leather collection would not be complete without a limited-edition bag. At the Cannes International Film

Festival, the Happy bag collection enjoyed its turn on the red carpet through a special-edition clutch. It featured a rosegold-plated clasp with authentic diamonds twirling between the two sapphire crystals. Available in black leather and champagne-toned leather versions, this edition is numbered 1 to 71 for each of the two colours, in a tribute to the 71st edition of the Cannes Festival. Ever since 1997, Chopard and the Cannes Film Festival have formed a glittering relationship. The Palme d’Or, one of the most prestigious awards in the visual arts universe was designed by none other than Caroline Scheufele, the copresident of Chopard. She is also responsible for Chopard’s ladies’ collections, and therefore, is the one who developed the maison’s jewellery collections, and later the high-end jewellery department. The women’s leather accessories are also under her direction. As they say, only a woman can best understand the needs of a woman.

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FASHION · ALHAMBRA TURNS 50

ALHAMBRA TURNS 50 Nick Foulkes speaks to Signé about his new book written to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Alhambra by Van Cleef & Arpels Al Hambra, the name evokes images of the resplendent architectural masterpiece in Cordoba that seems frozen in time. For Van Cleef & Arpels, Alhambra is the name of a timeless classic with a humble beginning, but one that has grown to become an icon of the maison in 2018. This year marks the 50th anniversary of this “lucky” charm, and to celebrate the occasion, Van Cleef & Arpels organised an event in Marrakesh where it launched four new necklace and bracelet sets. Though it was born in revolutionary times, Alhambra came into existence not as a revolutionary but as an important evolutionary step in the story of Van Cleef & Arpels. The big step came in 1954, with the opening of La Boutique in Place Vendome. This made it possible for the maison to successfully transition from being a manufacturer of haute joaillerie for the very elite, into one that could also cater to a new type of woman; one who was financially independent, intellectually liberated and insistent on making her own decisions. This transition by Van Cleef & Arpels was contemporaneous to the transition that was taking place in the world of haute couture where pioneers such as Pierre Cardin and Yves Saint Laurent had

introduced their prêt-à-porter lines. Their safari suits, kaftans, tunics and daywear dresses were a perfect complement to Alhambra’s aesthetic. Nicolas Bos, the Van Cleef & Arpels’s president and chief executive told the New York Times, “It was a period where many things changed culturally. Jewellery and fashion were opening up to a wider clientele with modern lifestyles — that of the active woman who was buying for herself, with pieces worn for pleasure on a daily basis.” Attending the 50th-anniversary event, among others, were artists who had collaborated with Van Cleef & Arpels to contribute to the landmark event. Photographer Valérie Belin has captured her vision of luck and the Alhambra long necklace on two occasions for the Maison. The Franco-Turkish duo of Burcu and Geoffrey directed an animated film that was illustrated by Julie Joseph that is part of Van Cleef & Arpels’s ongoing 360 global campaign for the Alhambra collection. The maison also used the occasion to launch a new book by British author Nick Foulkes which traces Alhambra’s journey set against the changing socio-economic conditions of the last 50 years. The book is extensively researched and chronicles how a piece of jewellery became a symbol

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of a revolutionary era. It also features documents from the archives of Van Cleef & Arpels as well as an extensive collection of photographers. Foulkes is a believer in luck and believes that luck has been on Alhambra’s side for the past 50 years. Luck, as a concept has been integral to Van Cleef & Arpels from its earliest days. “Luck is part of the tradition of what Van Cleef & Arpels does. In the First World War, they had touch wood rings, they had elephant hair rings that were supposed to be lucky,” Nick Foulkes told Signé during a recent visit to Dubai. Jacques Arpels, who managed the maison through the troubled times of World War II, once said: “To be lucky, you have to believe in luck.” He collected four-leaf clovers from his country house garden on the outskirts of Paris, pressed them, and fondly gave them to his staff along with an inspiring poem. This sort of design concept, that is “sort of part geometric part natural world,” Nick Foulkes observed, “then comes together in something like the Alhambra. It is completely geometric, so you can abstract it. It’s also sufficiently looking like a four-leaf clover to be actually called the four-leaf clover.” Although the exact provenance of Alhambra motif remains a mystery, it is generally believed that it is

based on a four-leaf, clover-shaped gold medallion created by Jacques Arpels as a fusion between the traditional Moorish quatrefoil and the lucky four-leaf clover. Van Cleef and Arpels’ Alhambra was born in 1968 as an opera-length necklace of creased-gold featuring four-leaf clover motifs with beaded edges but did not feature hard stones. It was added to Van Cleef & Arpel’s more affordable, easyto-wear Paris La Boutique range of day jewels. Subsequent versions featured hard stones such as lapis lazuli, malachite, coral, onyx, tiger’s eye and turquoise. By the late 70s, mother of pearl, carnelian, rock crystal and blue agate were added. It became a favourite of style icons such as Princess Grace of Monaco, Romy Schneider and Françoise Hardy. Nick Foulkes notes that by the 1980s, due to the economic slump and changing fashion trends in Europe, the epicentre of demand for the Alhambra had moved to Japan as “there was something about it that appealed to the Japanese.” As

elaborated in the following interview with Foulkes, the Japanese then played a crucial role in the resurgence of Alhambra in the west. These resurfaces led to the Alhambra watch making its debut in 1998 with its distinctive fourleaf curves. Materials such as Sèvres porcelain, chalcedony, and letterwood were introduced. In 2001, customers were given the option of a new sleeker version with smooth edges called Pure Alhambra, alongside the rough-edged original which was rebranded Vintage Alhambra. For the 50th anniversary, Van Cleef & Arpels has created four limited-edition designs. One is a new interpretation of the Vintage Alhambra in grey motherof-pearl, the most popular material for Alhambra designs, along with diamonds in pink gold. The suite includes a necklace, bracelet, earrings and a ring. Another version features onyx and diamonds in white gold. A more exclusive suite, one that will be produced in very limited numbers, consists of two versions of the

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Vintage Alhambra necklace and bracelets in yellow gold. One version features lapis lazuli and diamonds, while the other features rock crystal with 20 four-leaf clover motifs like the original. The Alhambra collection now comprises 226 pieces including necklaces, pendants, bracelets, cufflinks, earrings, and watches, which makes up about half of Van Cleef & Arpels’ total jewellery offering. Going by this remarkable timeless icon’s ability to evolve and adapt while retaining its simple yet distinctive silhouette, like all true design classics tend to do, one would have to conclude that Van Cleef & Arpels’s Alhambra will adorn women for many years to come. To get a greater insight into Alhambra’s remarkable yet largely obscure history, there is no better place to start than Nick Foulkes’ insightful book on the design icon titled “Van Cleef & Arpels: Alhambra.” Foulkes, a graduate of Hertford College Oxford, is the author of around 25 books on arts and history.

FASHION · ALHAMBRA TURNS 50

He also contributes to a wide range of newspapers and magazines around the world including FT’s How To Spend It Magazine, Vanity Fair, and Country Life and luxury among others. On his recent visit to Dubai, he shared some of his experiences while writing the book, his opinions on the Alhambra collection, and the reasons for its continued popularity. How did your collaboration with Van Cleef & Arpels come about? I had done a book on Automata for Van Cleef & Arpels which was more predictable in that it is the kind of thing I do. I like to write history books and books on the arts and material culture. The Alhambra book was slightly different because although I had written a couple of books on Jewellers and Jewellery, there are people who are better experts in the history of Jewellery. But Nicolas Bos, who’s a lovely man, wanted me to do it and I said I’d give it a go. They approached me because the anniversary was coming up and it

transpired that nobody really knew very much about the origins of Alhambra inhouse. It just sort of existed. Then it really took off about 10 or 12 years ago and then everybody started paying attention to it. No one was really sure why it was called Alhambra or where it came from. They knew it was created in 1968. They knew that a few of the famous people had worn it in the 70s and that was about it. How did you approach the writing of Alhambra, was it different from the other books you’ve done? I set out to write the kind of book that I would like to read about Alhambra. One that would answer for me the questions I have about it. I never know exactly what I’m going to write before I sit down to write it which I think is the correct way to do it. I don’t predetermine. It’s like seeing what information I can get and then using that information to tell a story. When I went through Van Cleef’s archives, I saw the Alhambra motif

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appearing here and there. Everybody was taking it for granted that the Alhambra motif had been in a kind of aesthetic deep-freeze but actually what I found was that it had adapted itself to the times. It was a great experience for me to look through the archives of Van Cleef & Arpels. I took so many megabytes of photography because every page you turn, there’s something wonderful. Whether it’s the crown jewels of the Shah of Persia, or a design for an astrological belt buckle, or an iconic tissue box holder. There are all sorts of weird and wonderful things these books reveal. How long did the research take and how did you structure it? We needed 18 months. I was doing other things as well of course. It was a real jigsaw puzzle because you have to look in the archives, then you look in all sorts of newspaper archives, then you speak to old employees, you go to their headquarters to look at what’s being

“An icon is something that draws strength from multiple reproductions rather than getting vandalised by it. Another thing that defines an icon in the world of jewellery, watches and personal ornament is the adaptability or the number of times that a design can be tweaked, and the variation that you can get out of it while it still remains essentially recognisable.” Nick Foulkes

done now, and you gradually begin to build up this picture. I had to also read quite a lot about the events in Paris in May in 1968 because you should know what was going on politically, the level of affluence, and so on, to get a better understanding. What do you attribute to Alhambra’s longevity? I think there are a number of things. One factor is luck. Everybody needs luck, and thankfully Van Cleef & Arpels had the luck in Paris to be run by Pierre Arpels who was far-sighted enough to open the boutique in Paris. Then he went to Japan when nobody else was going to Japan, and they started selling the Alhambra in Japan. Though it may have seemed out of step in the 1980s in the west, there was something about it that appealed to the Japanese. So it was a lucky move that made Van Cleef & Arpels the favoured brand of one of the most powerful economies in the world at that time. Then a Japanese photographer sparked a sort of a revival. He did these hyper-saturated images of picnics that

were very elaborate. Then the Alhambra seemed to be everywhere. There were a lot of knock-offs as well which obviously irritated Van Cleef & Arpels and in a way it was flattering too. The Alhambra is very wearable, and it is very versatile. It’s got a visual language that speaks to you. The Alhambra was intended to be worn every day rather than worn on occasions. Do you think the Alhambra customers see it as a lucky charm? Undoubtedly because, before it was known as Alhambra, it was just a piece of jewellery that had a bunch of names that were workshop names essentially. In the advertising, it was sometimes referred to as Clover to wear with jeans or a ball gown. It was called Alhambra officially, but it wasn’t always called that in the brochures and advertising. So yes, I think people do believe it is lucky. How do you deﬁne an icon and how do you see Alhambra evolving in the next 50 years and so? An icon is something that draws strength

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from multiple reproductions rather than getting vandalised by it. It’s like some of the Andy Warhol images; they gain their power and their commercial value from being reproduced, and they become recognisable. Another thing that defines an icon in the world of jewellery, watches and personal ornaments is the adaptability or the number of times that a design can be tweaked, and the variation that you can get out of it while it still remains essentially recognisable. The number of different variations of the Alhambra I think is well over 250. Is there anything you’d like to add? The Alhambra is like an iceberg. The one-tenth above is that which you can see with your eyes, and the nine-tenths below is this book where you have all the background, the people who made it, where it came from, how it fitted in with Van Cleef’s other creations and so on. Only Van Cleef & Arpels could have made the Alhambra at that time, and it was at a time when they were also doing the crown jewels for the Shah of Persia.

GROOMING  FRAGRANCE FILE`

FRAGRANCE FILE Terre d’Hermes, Eau Intense Vetiver Eau de Parfum The strength of vetiver mixed with the vitality of the Sichuan pepper and green bergamot 100ml AED 521

Salvatore Ferragamo, Tuscan Creations La Commedia Eau de Parfum Bitter Orange Peel, Grapefruit with the woodiness of Akigala Wood, Amber Wood and Chilli Pepper Infusion 100ml AED 1,106

Goutal Paris, Eau D’Hadrien Limited Edition Murano Glass Bottle Sicilian Lemon, Ylang-Ylang and Bergamot AED 11,345

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Dunhill, Century Eau de Parfum Bergamot, Grapefruit, and a base of sandalwood, Olibanum and fragrant Neroli. 135ml AED 322

Prada, L’ Homme Absolu Cedar wood and the amber accents of Black Pepper, contrasted with fresh citric notes of Bergamot and Mandarin 100ml AED 550

Ex Nihilo Paris, Cuir Celeste Leather notes with Ambrette, addictive Violet leaves, Patchouli and Musk 100ml AED 1,337

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G R O O M I N G · PA R F U M É N AT U R E L L E

PARFUMÉ NATURELLE Henry Jacques, the haute parfumerie opens its door to Signé and tells us its hidden story “For me the ultimate luxury is time. Especially when you have the time to create a bespoke fragrance of your own.” This is the opinion of Anne-Lise Cremona, the current CEO of Henry Jacques. Anne-Lise’s father, Henry Jacques Cremona, founded the eponymous “haute parfumerie” in 1975 on the outskirts of Grasse, the very hub of French haute perfumery since the 17th century. The perfumery, known for using only premium natural essences from all over the world and for following time-honoured principles of craftsmanship, has recently opened a magnificent store in The Dubai Mall’s Fashion Avenue extension. Henry was a man driven by his insatiable passion for fragrances, and a stubborn unwillingness to compromise on quality. “For my father, quality and quantity could not work together because he would have lost the essence of the product itself. Thanks to these values we stayed very far from the crowd for many years.” The perfumery, instead, carved out a niche market by modelling itself on “an haute couture house, creating bespoke perfumes as per our client’s request. We had a private clientele of important people from all over the world who wanted something they could not find anywhere else. Sometimes it was for themselves, sometimes as a gift, or more importantly, sometimes as an official state gift,” Anne-Lise told Signé while giving us an exclusive tour of the new boutique. Even though the brand remained hidden for a long time, its prestige was such, that when Harrods of London unveiled the ultra-exclusive Salon De Parfums on its sixth floor, Henry Jacques was one of only ten brands invited to display their perfumes, out of nearly 300 at Harrods. Moreover, they were the only brand, out of the ten, to make their debut directly on the sixth floor. In fact, according to Anne-Lise “Harrods wanted us to display our perfumes for a while, but we declined because we wanted to wait for the right environment.” “For Henry Jacques, the perfume is the king. Not the face of someone. The perfume is at the centre of our attention,” Says

Ann-Lise when asked what makes her perfumes so special. “The key for us is our beautiful laboratory in the South of France. It is a rare place where we have around 1,200 natural ingredients, sourced from around the world, that we can blend to produce new perfumes. The entire creative process, from blending to the packing happens in-house, and mostly by hand.” Another unusual quality of Henry Jacques is that the perfumery has managed to retain its complete independence as a family run business. “I started to work in the family business when I was around 19 while also studying at the same time. After my studies, I wanted to find my own path, and so I worked for major groups in the perfume industry, in Paris and Geneva. Seven years ago, I came back because I could not accept the idea of my parents’ great work amounting to nothing. The other, more important reason was to maintain the brand’s respect and to protect it. This is something I have shared with Christophe [Tollemer, Artistic Director] from the very beginning and it underlines everything we do. I see myself as a guardian of our savoir-faire.” “For almost three years after returning, I focused mostly on selecting 50 of the best perfumes for our first collection to be introduced into retail.” Normally, this would mean creating new fragrances, but at Henry Jacques, it was a case of painstakingly selecting the 50 perfumes, “from the almost 3,000 perfumes created over 40 years,” and “was a tremendous challenge.” Harrods was the brand’s first venture into retail and proved to be quite successful considering the competition. Ann-Lise is adamant that the success was “due to the work of our parents,” because, “I would have never been able to do that alone. It takes several lives and many decades of dedication” to attain that level of brand recognition. Buoyed by this success, Ann-Lise has plans to bring the Henry Jacques haute parfumerie experience to more locations around the world; one stand-alone boutique at a time. For this, the perfumery has embarked on joint ventures in Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala-Lumpur and other locations in Asia. It is also set

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G R O O M I N G · PA R F U M É N AT U R E L L E

Henry Jacques Laboratory

Anne-Lise Cremona, CEO of Henry Jacques

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Henry Jacques boutique in Dubai

to open its first Boutique on Rodeo Drive, Los Angeles in March. Ann-Lise’s eldest son Sasha now heads the Communications team at Henry Jacques because “he understands exactly where the limits are” between protecting the brand’s heritage, its modernisation and its expansion. The subject of expansion brings us to the new boutique at Dubai Mall. The whole retail space is designed in-house by the brand’s talented Creative Director Christophe Tollemer, who has accumulated an impressive portfolio of luxury hotels, restaurants and chalets. “When we started working on the boutique,” says Ann-Lise, “I told him I don’t want a boutique, I want a house. This may sound completely crazy, but that’s how we treated our private clients when they came to our place. Most of them we have known for a long time. So we wanted to offer a similar experience in our boutiques. Also, I wanted all our new clients to understand that perfume can be an ultra-luxurious experience.” In Ann-Lise’s Dubai house, “everything is real. The floor tiles come from an 18th-century castle, the mirror is 18th-century antique, the couch was covered by the finest Venetian fabric craftsmen, and all the woodwork was completed in France, shipped here in pieces and reassembled by a team of specialists flown in from France. The wood craftsmanship is rare even in France. A specialist painter was also flown in to paint the gold leaves. We wanted the Boutique to be made with the same level of expertise as the perfumes.” While boutiques are usually designed to display as much as possible, Ann-Lise prefers that a visit to their boutique be a process of gradual discovery. The boutique even has a “Special” room “to offer a bespoke session. So that the private clients can

come here directly, close the door, and then spend time with their own emotions.” “Our perfumes are quite complex and can have up to 250 components.” All 50 perfumes of the standard collection are available in the Boutique, and they come in two different sizes 15 and 30 ml. However, “for Dubai, we have brought 30 additional perfumes. The 50 are displayed in the main boutique, while the 30 are in the private room. The reason is our Middle-eastern clients. We have known each other for many years, which is why we have the extra 30 just for Dubai.” The perfumes are contained in flacons designed by Christophe and produced in-house. To house their unique and limited editions, Christophe has collaborated with some of the best crystal-glass makers and jewellers to produce flacons that are innovative, intricately-designed and aesthetically stunning. One such flacon on display is the “only example of a Jewellery piece in Dubai featuring white and brown diamonds.” These are “artistic statements where different crafts come together to create a bottle where the colour of the perfume determines the design of the bottle and the colour of the stones.” Henry Jacques is in a challenging yet enviable place. Its unique savoir-faire has enabled it to carve out a niche for itself while the dynamics of the modern world demands that it innovate. AnnLise seems to have found a formula that satisfies both. She is uncompromising on the quality of the perfumes and on the luxury of time as her father insisted while innovating, modernising and steadily expanding how Henry Jacques timeless fragrances are unravelled to new admirers; to create new memories. After all, “a perfume may not be a visible accessory, but it is a very powerful one, since the strongest memory is the olfactory memory.”

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GROOMING · FUNCTIONAL LUXURY

FUNCTIONAL LUXURY Aesop’s Dubai Kit: a tool for purposeful travellers Aesop is one brand that is long known for its high-quality products. The Melbourne based skin, hair and body care specialist’s formulations are created with meticulous attention to detail, and with efficacy and sensory pleasure in mind. The brand recently released a travel case, named after the cosmopolitan city of Dubai, which features a selection of Aesop’s favourites; suitable for all skin types. It includes the following travelsized products from Aesop’s Hair, Body and Oral Care offerings in addition to staples from the Parsley Seed Skin Care range, presented in an elegant black microfibre amenity case. • Classic Shampoo 50 mL - A mild formulation that blends oils of Cedarwood Bark and Juniper Berry to cleanse thoroughly while Hydrolysed Vegetable Protein hydrates and softens hair. • Nurturing Conditioner 50 mL - A

nourishing treatment enhanced with shea butter and Vitamin E that hydrates and tames belligerent hair to leave it glossy and remarkably soft. • Geranium Leaf Body Cleanser 50 mL - An invigorating gentle gel cleanser formulated with oils of Mandarin and Bergamot Rind to banish grime and thoroughly refresh the skin. • Geranium Leaf Body Balm 50 mL - A rich blend of nourishing nut oils, skinsoftening ingredients and Geranium Leaf and Citrus extracts to provide exceptional hydration. • Parsley Seed Facial Cleanser 15 mL - A clarifying formulation that removes surface impurities and offers mild exfoliation from Lactic Acid. Ideal for maintaining immaculately clean skin in polluted urban environments. • Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Facial Toner 15 mL - An alcohol-free, antioxidant rich formulation that soothes

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and balances the skin while preparing it for hydration. • Parsley Seed Anti-Oxidant Serum 15 mL - A lightweight formulation with a complex blend of anti-oxidant and skin-softening ingredients in a soothing Aloe Vera base that hydrates, calms and fortifies the skin. • Mouthwash 50 mL - A breathfreshening, romance-enhancing, alcohol-free formulation consisting of Clove Bud, Anise and Spearmint Leaf to maintain impeccable oral hygiene without disturbing the mouth’s natural balance. • Toothpaste 10 mL – A distinctively flavoured toothpaste consisting of Sea Buckthorn, Cardamom and Wasabia Japonica to effectively clean teeth and gums. The Dubai kit is ideal for urbandwellers and travellers and is priced at AED 275.

The Dubai Kit by Aesop

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WAT C H E S · A E S T H E T I C M E C H A N I S M

AESTHETIC MECHANISM The Fiftysix Tourbillon by Vacheron Constantin is a tribute to the golden era of watchmaking Vacheron Constantin, the world’s oldest watch manufacturer in continuous production since its founding, unveiled its Fiftysix collection in January 2018, in the form of three new models: Selfwinding, Day-Date and Complete Calendar. On September 11, the maison launched the fourth model in the collection: the Fiftysix Tourbillon. Beautifully slender at less than 6 mm thick and framed by a 41 mm-diameter 18K pink gold case, the Fiftysix Tourbillon is equipped with a 22-carat gold peripheral rotor. The calibre of this model may be observed through a transparent caseback revealing all the beauty of the mechanism with its refined ornamentation. The tourbillon alone, according to the maison, requires over a dozen hours of chamfering and other hand-crafted finishing operations. Its 2.5 Hz frequency provides a chance to follow its steady beat while the two-tone opaline-sunburst dial’s decoration plays an equally exceptional tune.

The style of the Fiftysix is a direct tribute to a watch created in 1956: reference 6073. Its distinctive design embodies the creativity of the maison during the 1950s; a period representing the golden age of watchmaking refinement. Round, slim and effortlessly elegant, reference 6073 is distinguished by its four lugs each representing a branch of the Maltese cross. It was also, at the time, one of the first watches from the manufacture to be equipped with a self-winding movement and a water-resistant case. With its classic dial, daring case and avant-garde technical characteristics, the 1956 watch was a bridge between respect for tradition and innovative excellence. Qualities that were deeply cherished by Vacheron Constantin are now expressed in the Fiftysix collection as it takes inspiration from several features of the original model such as the lugs forming one portion of the Maltese cross, a box-type crystal, as well as self-winding movements. The Fiftysix Tourbillon will be available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques from April 2019.

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WAT C H E S · VA L L É E R E N E W

VALLÉE RENEW Philippe Belais, owner and CEO of Claude Meylan watches speaks exclusively to Signé Vallée de Joux, deep in the heart of the Jura Mountains of Switzerland, was a cradle of its watchmaking industry. There were four founding families of this craft in the Vallée, one of which was Meylan. Today, the Meylan name is represented by the Claude Meylan watches. The brand, while being a specialist in the sophisticated art of “skeletonisation,” still insists on crafting its watches in the traditional, Jura way, offering a direct link back to those historic beginnings. The eponymous brand was founded in 1988 by Claude Meylan, who sold it to the current owner and CEO, Philippe Belais in 2010. Philippe began his career in horology as Export Director for Pequignet watches, followed by Alfred Dunhill, where, after three years as Sales Director for southern Europe, he was made General Manager for jewellery, watches, pens and lighters.

In 2000, he took over as manager of the Van Cleef & Arpels watch division, where he went deep into its archives to reinvigorate the brand. In 2005, he became President and CEO of Bertolucci watches. Philippe Belais was recently in Dubai and gave Signé an exclusive insight into the man and his brand of horology. What is it about the Claude Meylan story that appealed to you, to make you want to buy it? Maybe I should add that it’s a true story because there are also stories that are totally made up. It is very important to me that the brand’s roots are true, something that has values, integrity and philosophy, all in the same package. Claude Meylan descends from one of the founding families of Vallée de Joux, and they have been there for more than 300 years. The value of something like that is very hard to translate into words.

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At what point in your life did you think ‘I want to be an entrepreneur,’ or was it something that just happened? I never asked myself that question because I was lucky enough to work in companies that I liked, but I think I had entrepreneurialism in me right from the beginning. I love autonomy and the independence to express myself, so I think that I was very lucky to have bosses who allowed me that space. How did your acquisition of Claude Meylan come about? In 2010, I was free, and I was looking for another challenge, after three and a half years as CEO and president of Bertolucci. In those days there was the Geneva Time Exhibition for small independent watchmakers. I visited this exhibition where I met Mr. Meylan. I knew him from my Van Cleef days because he used to buy movements

Claude Meylan LAC 6047 watch

from Van Cleef when I was there. He told me that he wanted to sell his company because he was old. I never planned on going to GTE. I never planned to buy the company. We started talking, and things moved very quickly. I saw many positives. The brand was sold commercially only in Switzerland. It had a great heritage, and so it had tremendous potential for growth. We signed nine months later in December 2010. Mr. Meylan is now 85, but he is still involved in the company. In fact, he lives above our offices and the atelier. What would you say is your brand identity and was it always there or something you introduced? First, I asked myself: what is this brand?

Claude Meylan LAC 6144 watch

I looked into its past for answers, and I came to the realisation that we are sculptors of time, we don’t create it. We are masters of skeletonisation, a specialisation within watchmaking. For inspiration, I went back to our roots, to the Vallée, to our village L’Abbaye, to our Lake Joux, and our river Lionne. These are the inspiration for our lines [collections]. Above all, I wanted to deliver a product that was reliable. Now, we are not a movement manufacturer. So, I needed to find movements that were extremely reliable. I was able to convince ETA [SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse] to take a chance with us. We always base our art and our savoir-faire on an extremely reliable product.

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What has changed since you took over? The company was run in a manner that was typical of Mr. Meylan’s generation. There wasn’t much that you could base the future on. There was no strategy on the movement, no strategy on the lines. There were no lines. There was something like 650 references, no structure on who does what. Many movements came from many suppliers; some were even bought at auctions. In fact, even now at 85, Mr. Meylan drives across Switzerland to collect movements. I started the Legends line especially for the movements that he finds. For us, being true to the customer, being true to the brand, being true to our heritage will be the base from which we grow.

A N A M A L G A M AT I O N O F E N G I N E E R I N G A N D A RT

AN AMALGAMATION OF ENGINEERING AND ART When the Spirit of Ecstasy met the Fabergé Egg, the result was an exceptional display of creativity and craftsmanship “A designer at the House of Rolls-Royce sketched an egg, igniting a fascination that will undoubtedly become one of the most collectable items of modern times.” These are the words of Torsten Müller-Ötvös, Chief Executive Officer, Rolls-Royce Motor Cars. He was referring to the ‘Spirit of Ecstasy’ Fabergé Egg, the unique objet d’art commissioned by Rolls-Royce and fabricated by Fabergé. It is only the second Fabergé Egg to be commissioned in the ‘Imperial Class’ since

1917. The Imperial Class is a category reserved for Fabergé’s most illustrious creations, those that truly celebrate Fabergé’s storied history and heritage; qualities it has shared with Rolls-Royce for more than a century. The original Fabergé egg was commissioned by Emperor Alexander III in 1885 as an Easter present for his wife, Empress Maria Feodorovna. This became an annual Easter tradition of the imperial household and was continued by his son Nicholas

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A N A M A L G A M AT I O N O F E N G I N E E R I N G A N D A RT

The Spirit of Ecstasy’ Fabergé Egg

II, resulting in a total of 50 eggs being created for the Russian Imperial family between 1885 and 1916; a period when the company was run by Peter Carl Fabergé. “The Spirit of Ecstasy’ Fabergé Egg was born from an intrinsic desire to further the realms of Bespoke personalisation,” according to Müller-Ötvös, and was in response to “the continuing demands of patrons in search of unique and cherished possessions.” The design of the egg was conceived by Rolls-Royce designers Stefan Monro and Alex Innes and rendered by Fabergé’s lead designer Liisa Talgren. The resulting intricate design, which stands at 160mm and weighs just 400g, unmistakeably draws

inspiration from Fabergé’s heritage. The challenge of bringing the design to life fell under the stewardship of Fabergé’s workmaster Paul Jones, with a team of seven exceptional artist jewellers and using the finest materials. The egg rests on an engine-turned, hand-engraved, purple enamel guilloché base of 18 karat white gold. Arms of rose gold define the shape of the egg, acting as a protective chamber. The rose gold vanes, embellished with nearly 10 carats of round white diamonds, resolve into swathes of natural amethyst weighing over 390 carats, specially selected for its colour saturation and quality. The purple hue of the enamel and amethyst provide a playful nod to the use of colour found in Fabergé’s heritage. The

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star of the show, the beautiful figurine of the Spirit of Ecstasy, is hand-sculpted in frosted rock crystal. Upon operating the movement via a discreet lever at the base of the stand, the boughs open like a blossoming flower to present an unobscured view of the Spirit of Ecstasy. The movement is a highly complex mechanism, conceived through computer-aided design and animation, and developed with micro engineering. The success of this mechanism, and in turn the piece as a whole, can be attributed to the goldsmiths’ skill and also their ability to meld this skill with technology. The piece, thus, embodies both the artistic design and engineering skill that one expects from a collaboration between Rolls-Royce and Fabergé.

“The creation of the ‘Spirit of Ecstasy’ Egg represents the meeting of two masters of unrivalled quality and design, showcasing two globally recognised symbols – the Fabergé Egg and the Spirit of Ecstasy,” said Sean Gilbertson, Chief Executive Officer, Fabergé. The ‘Spirit of Ecstasy’ Fabergé egg premiered at the House of Rolls-Royce in Goodwood, England, to a host of distinguished guests and venerable patrons of the marque on October 23, 2018. The Egg will next be on public display in Fabergé’s London window over the Christmas period and is eventually “destined for the residence of a great collector of both brands.”

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WAT C H E S · A N E N G I N E E R I N G M A RV E L

AN ENGINEERING MARVEL The Horological Machine N°9 ‘Flow’ from MB&F is a unique and complex piece of mechanical art Think of the word ‘streamliner’ and images of curvy flowing lines of the motor vehicles of the late 40 and 50s come to mind. MB&F have debuted the Horological Machine N°9 ‘Flow’ which evokes those beautiful curvy lines while concealing the immense complexity and the pioneering engineering techniques required to bring its design to life. HM9 follows in the pioneering footsteps of the HM4 Thunderbolt and the HM6 Space Pirate, both of which utilised a geometrically complex combination of milled sapphire crystal and grade 5 titanium case elements. The HM9, however, goes beyond its predecessors by redefining what was thought to be possible in case design. The highly complex titanium case is arranged in an alternating wide-to-narrow conical arrangement while the finishing alternates between polished and satin. Because the HM9 was not designed with current manufacturing and finishing techniques in mind, its curves and acute angles required MB&F to invent new manufacturing techniques to obtain a complete milled and finished case. For example, the undulating shell of the HM6 Space Pirate though geometrically complex, its maximum height differential

(the vertical distance between contiguous points) remained within 5mm. With HM9, that differential has doubled to create the curves that give the case its highly tactile presence. If that was not challenging enough, the case features slim bands of mirror polish and wider swaths of satin finish. This was a challenge for existing finishing tools that have fixed diameters. Adjusting the placement of different finishes to accommodate the finishing tools was not an option for the designers, as this would have diminished the aesthetic of HM9. So, new manufacturing techniques had to be developed to bring the design to life. The unique proportions of the curves on the HM9’s case, which measures 57mm at its widest point and with limited transverse symmetry, made it impossible to install the movement by conventional means. It was necessary to divide the case along two axes and required the development of an equally unique and complex manual winding movement. The result of three years of development, the HM9 engine was created entirely in-house. It consists of two independent balance wheels that are individually impulsed and spatially separated to avoid resonance, thus ensuring that they beat at their own

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Horological Machine N°9 ‘Flow’ Air Edition

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WAT C H E S · A N E N G I N E E R I N G M A RV E L

Horological Machine N°9 ‘Flow’ Road Edition

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Horological Machine N°9 ‘Flow’ Road Edition Engine

independent cadences of 2.5Hz each. The twin balance wheels feed two sets of chronometric data to a central planetary differential gearbox which results in one stable averaged reading of the time. The two balance wheels and the gearbox can be viewed through panes of anti-reflection treated sapphire crystal. There are two versions of the HM9 engine, one with a dark NAC coating and another in matte rose gold. The mechanical pedigree of the HM9 engine, the doublebalance with the differential layout, descends from the similar system in Legacy Machine N°2, albeit in vastly different aesthetic form. Another feature borrowed from the LM2 is the curved arms anchoring the balances; their polished steel finish contrasts with the movement bridges. The dial indicating hours and minutes sits perpendicular to the rest of the HM9 engine which requires the use of conical gears to drive the hands while ensuring precise engagement even when motion is put through a 90° planar translation. The winding and setting crown is located on the rear of the central body. Its deep

fluting provides ergonomic grip as well as aesthetic coherence with the overall design. Two satin-finished air scoops are mounted alongside the pods containing the oscillating balance wheels, evoking the raised vents that allow continuous airflow to high-performance motor engines. A patented three-dimensional gasket ensures water resistance. Horological Machine N°9 ‘Flow’ debuts in two titanium editions limited to 33 pieces each: the ‘Air’ edition comes with a dark movement and aviator-style dial while the ‘Road’ edition has a rose gold movement and a classic speedometer-style dial. A wide range of MB&F Horological Machines and Legacy Machines can be viewed at MB&F M.A.D.Gallery at Al Quoz 1, Dubai. It is a captivating universe of kinetic art where Horological Machines and Mechanical Art Devices from around the world reign supreme. The first M.A.D.Gallery opened in 2011 in Geneva on Rue Verdaine, a stone’s throw from MB&F’s offices and atelier in the heart of the city’s old town. A second location opened in 2014 in Taipei, then the third in Dubai in 2016.

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S E L E C T I O N S · M O N T E G R A P PA’S M A S T E R M I N D

MONTEGRAPPA’S MASTERMIND Signé sits down with Montegrappa CEO Giuseppe Aquila for an exclusive interview at the brand’s new flagship store in the Dubai Mall Giuseppe Aquila, the CEO of the Italian luxury writing instruments, accessories and leather goods manufacturer Montegrappa, was in Dubai recently to inaugurate the brand’s new flagship store in the Fashion Avenue extension of the Dubai Mall. It is the only store in the region to offer atelier services by which customers can create bespoke pens with a wide choice of materials and styles. The brand, whose pens have brought to life the words of such luminaries as Ernest Hemingway, Salvador Dali, Khalil Gibran and even Nelson Mandela, is in the middle of an expansion strategy in the region. In honour of the UAE’s Year of Zayed celebration, Montegrappa has unveiled two collections of limited-edition pens. One is the Year of Zayed collection highlighted by the Rose Gold fountain pen with an 18K solid gold nib priced at AED 4,800. It also includes a rollerball

pen (AED 1,940) and a marker pen (AED 1,990) made of black resin accented with palladium plated trim. Ishy Bilady is the second collection, also made with resin and palladium with metal trim with the words of the National Anthem calligraphed on it. It includes a Fountain Pen (AED 1,650), Rollerball Pen (AED 1,440) and Ballpoint Pen (AED 1,280). Signé met with Giuseppe after the inauguration of the boutique, and he shared with us some of his insights on the Montegrappa brand. Introduce us to the history of the Montegrappa brand and your involvement in it. Montegrappa was established in 1912 as a partnership between some Italians and Austrians. My grandfather was not one of the founders. He was a chemist who started by making inks and wanted to manufacture his own pens. So, he

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approached Montegrappa to develop a line of pens for him. Later on, my father was in a position to acquire the Montegrappa business. It is a family business, and I represent the third generation of the family. My daughter is already involved in the business and is the 4th generation. I joined the business in 1992 after I finished my studies. It was always my intention to join the company. I grew up in this factory, and I have always been fascinated by writing, pens, and by beauty in general. I wanted to bring a fresh approach to the business by taking the brand upmarket at a time when the concept of luxury was gaining traction. Your Workshop: gives us a sense of what it’s like and the major challenges you face. In our factory, we have about 60 craftsmen, a majority of whom are between the

The Montegrappa Revolver Pen The legendary duels of the Wild West, stuff of childhood fantasy or a metaphor for a high-stakes world? Following 2015’s acclaimed Q1 comes a new chapter in complication pens that is certain to attract onlookers. The first production model to feature Montegrappa’s revolutionary Power-Push filling system also carries a rotating mock bullet chamber – the ultimate executive toy for thinking and scheming.

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S E L E C T I O N S · M O N T E G R A P PA’S M A S T E R M I N D

The Montegrappa Brain Pen To create a pen that represents the complexities of the very organ it celebrates, Montegrappa’s designers drew inspiration from the brain itself. The link between the brain and the pen encouraged Montegrappa to illustrate this direct intellectual and physical connection. Emblematic of this is the contrast present in the pen’s most basic structural elements: the top part of the pen is rich and elaborate, while the body is simple, acting as a parallel to a man’s body, where all his riches are in the brain.

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Giuseppe Aquila, CEO of Montegrappa

ages of 30 and 40. We also have older craftsmen who are more involved in ensuring continuity by training new recruits, particularly for some of the more specialized skills such as painting, engraving, and setting of precious stones by hand. Craftsmanship is very important in a company like ours, and it is very difficult to find skilled artisans. Recruits have to undergo a lot of training which can take many years. So, we have to find young people who already have specific skills, but more importantly, they must have the talent, patience, and dedication to train with the older generation. One of our advantages is that we are located in Venice, an area famous for producing jewellery. We have access to people who come from that background since what we do is a mix of jewellery and watchmaking. In the

last few years, we have been adding features to our pens that is similar to what the watchmaking business calls complication as it requires both craftsmanship and engineering. Give us an example of one such pen that involves this combination of craftsmanship and engineering. A good example is our Revolver Pen. It resembles a gun with a lot of moving parts and unique mechanisms. It also comes with imitation bullets to give it a fun and playful character. How are you dealing with the challenges of the digital age? A few years ago, I was concerned about this issue. But now I see a growing trend where millennials are becoming more interested in writing, and even calligraphy, and social media is

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promoting it. People are looking for ways to reconnect with themselves and writing in this regard definitely helps. Writing is a ritualistic process. In fact, our Brain Pen was developed in collaboration with a neurologist whom we also asked to write a book on the benefits of writing for the brain, and specifically with the fountain pen. He stated that it improves motor skills and memory because whatever you write, it gets reproduced as an image in your mind. So, writing is a way of recording memory. We also try, with our limited abilities, to promote the beauty and art of writing. We have been part of the Emirates Literature Festival too. We have the Montegrappa Prize for young writers to discover young writing talent around the world. We promote writing in whatever ways we can.

AUTOMOTIVE · A BRITISH AFFAIR

A BRITISH AFFAIR The Limited-Edition Aston Martin Q Rapide S by Hackett combines performance with style Hackett and Aston Martin have added another chapter to their long-standing relationship by collaborating to create a Hackett edition of the Aston Martin Q Rapide S which combines the sensational performance of the sports car with the essence of Hackett’s fundamental brand values in one compelling form. The specification has been designed exclusively by Hackett Chairman, Jeremy Hackett in collaboration with Chief Creative Officer of Aston Martin, Marek Reichman. The car’s Mako Blue exterior, Union Jack Aston Martin wings and 3D minted polo player side badges embody Hackett’s identifying values. The Mako Blue is a contemporary powder blue colour inspired by Aston Martin heritage blues of the past. Red, blue & violet toners are added to white to create the base colour while fine aluminium particles are added to create a delectate sparkle effect. Applied by hand to ensure the perfect finish and taking over 70 hours to complete, the colour is a pure example of craftsmanship and exclusivity. The interior reflects the brands tailoring expertise. The seats and car accessories are covered with a Prince of Wales Check

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Jeremy Hackett, Chairman of Hackett, with the Hackett edition of the Aston Martin Q Rapide S

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AUTOMOTIVE · A BRITISH AFFAIR

Hand painted Union Flag Mesh Detailing

The Hackett X Aston Martin Jewelry Fender Badge

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Hand trimmed Bespoke Interiors

supplied by renowned cloth mill Fox Brothers and Co. Inside the glove box, door pockets, cup holders and the sun visor is a blue and white striped material, similar to that of a traditional suit lining. Hackett’s blue colourway is highlighted through the carpets and the headrests, with the Hackett logo embossed on the rear, etc. For every car purchased, Hackett will create a bespoke suit that mirrors the car’s interior; a Prince of Wales Check cloth from Fox Brothers and Co. with a blue and white stripe lining. An exclusive luxury accessories range will also launch in line with the car; key pieces include a large holdall, small 24-hour holdall both made from Fox Brothers Prince of Wales Check cloth with blacker leather piping and handles, adorned with the Aston Martin by Hackett signature label. Also available is a travel umbrella, cufflinks, car blankets and made to measure driving gloves. The Q Rapide S by Hackett is one of the highest specs ever built by Aston Martin and is available from September 2018 onwards.

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AUTOMOTIVE · TRIBUTE TO SPEED

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AUTOMOTIVE · TRIBUTE TO SPEED

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Sunglasses by Gucci, Suit and shirt by Corneliani, Tie and pocket square by Eton at Harvey Nichols, Bag by Bally, Shoes by Christian Louboutin, Watch by Hublot (Big Bang Ferrari Unico Carbon Red Ceramic, 45 mm). SIGNÉ · EDITION 32

AUTOMOTIVE · TRIBUTE TO SPEED

Shirt by Stella McCartney at Harvey Nichols, Tie by Berluti, Trousers by Kenzo, Watch by Hublot (Techframe Ferrari Tourbillon Chronograph King Gold, 45 mm. Limited edition of 70 pieces).

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AUTOMOTIVE · TRIBUTE TO SPEED

Watch by Hublot (Techframe Ferrari Tourbillon Chronograph King Gold, 45 mm. Limited edition of 70 pieces).

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AUTOMOTIVE · TRIBUTE TO SPEED

Blazer by Givenchy at Harvey Nichols, Shirt by Kenzo, Trousers by Neil Barret at Harvey Nichols, Shoes by Christian Louboutin. Watch by Hublot (Big Bang Ferrari Unico Titanium, 45 mm).

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AUTOMOTIVE · TRIBUTE TO SPEED

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Pullover by Berluti, Shirt by COS, Trousers by Alexander McQueen at Harvey Nichols, Shoes by Christian Louboutin, Watch by Hublot (Big Bang Ferrari Unico Carbon Red Ceramic, 45 mm).

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AUTOMOTIVE · TRIBUTE TO SPEED

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Sunglasses by Saint Laurent, Suit by Lacoste, Turtle neck by Lacoste, Pocket square by Eton at Harvey Nichols, Shoes by Christian Louboutin, Watch by Hublot (Techframe Ferrari Tourbillon Chronograph Titanium, 45 mm. Limited edition of 70 pieces).

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AUTOMOTIVE · C AYENNE EVOLUTION

CAYENNE EVOLUTION The Third Generation of the Porsche Cayenne has arrived. We take you through the three generations of the triumphant Porsche Cayenne The Porsche Cayenne made its debut in 2002. It was the Stuttgart-based sports car specialist’s first venture into the SUV market, but it did so without compromising on its DNA. It seemed to defy the rules of physics to deliver performance and handling like a Porsche; supremely confident and nimble on the road while cocooning its occupants in opulent luxury. But unlike many of its competitors, it also had an enviable off-road pedigree with its three victories in the gruelling TransSyberia Rally. Porsche have recently unveiled the third generation of the Cayenne, the marque’s successful flagship SUV. “Since its initial launch, the Cayenne has been one of the most popular models in the UAE, and I have no doubt that the third generation, which offers even more sports car performance and practicality, will continue this success story. For me, the new Cayenne’s versatility is truly unique. It is at home on any road, but it is equally ready to explore new terrains. It enjoys a short sprint as much as a long road trip, and the commute to work as much as a lap on the track. It is capable of producing a superb drive experience virtually anywhere, and that is really what sets the Cayenne apart from any other SUV,” said K Rajaram, Chief Executive Officer of Al Nabooda Automobiles.

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Third generation Porsche Cayenne (2018)

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AUTOMOTIVE · C AYENNE EVOLUTION

First generation Porsche Cayenne (2003 - 2004)

First generation Porsche Cayenne facelift (2007)

The first Cayenne was powered by a 3.2-litre V6 engine which produced 250 bhp with a top speed of 214 kmph, and acceleration of 0-to-100 kmph in 9.1 seconds. The Cayenne S variant was only the second Porsche to have a V8, after the 928 in 1995. The 4.5-litre produced 335bhp, and in the ‘S turbo’ it

went up to 444 bhp which was the same as Porsche’s iconic 959 supercar from 1986. In 2006, a 4.8 litres V8 delivered 514bhp, which went up again in 2008 to 542bhp. In 2007 came the first significant face-lift with redesigned headlights, larger grille and the three-section air intakes in the front.

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Second generation Porsche Cayenne (2010)

Second generation Porsche Cayenne facelift (2014)

In 2010, the second generation of the Cayenne made its debut. Along with the noticeable aesthetic changes to the exterior, the Gen 2 Cayenne was more luxurious, agile and better equipped. It was lighter at less than 2 tonnes. The 3.6 litres V6 petrol engine delivered ten hp more, the 0-to-100

kmph acceleration increased by 0.6 seconds, and was more efficient with a 10 per cent less fuel consumption. The Cayenne S E-Hybrid made its debut in 2014, becoming the world’s first premium SUV plug-in hybrid. By 2017, the total sales of Cayenne had reached almost 800,000 units.

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AUTOMOTIVE · C AYENNE EVOLUTION

Third generation Porsche Cayenne (2018)

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Third generation Porsche Cayenne (2018)

The latest third generation of the Cayenne has three engine variants. The six-cylinder turbo engine of the base model Cayenne delivers 340 hp, a 40 hp increase. The 2.9-litre, biturbocharged V6 engine of the Cayenne S delivers a 20 hp increase at 440 hp. The biturbo eight-cylinder engine of the Cayenne Turbo also delivers an increase of 20 hp at 550 hp and also delivers the best acceleration from 0-to-100 kmph in 4.1 seconds. This is increased to 3.9 seconds with the Sport Chrono Package with a top speed of 286 km/h. The length of the Gen 3 Cayenne has increased, and the height decreased to deliver a more streamlined, athletic impression. It also has a more pronounced bonnet with redesigned headlight, narrower side windows, a redesigned rear wing, wider rear end with an integrated light strip, and wider alloy wheels. In the interior, a more spacious cabin also includes a luggage compartment that has increased by 100 litres. The Porsche Advanced Cockpit concept brings the vehicle and the occupants closer through improved connectivity and intuitive controls. The

centre console with Direct Touch Control and a new 12.3-inch touch display for the Porsche Communication Management (PCM) act as the driver’s interface to all vehicle functions. The PCM can also be used to activate five pre-programmed drive and chassis modes in accordance with the terrain. The new lightweight chassis of the Cayenne has been completely redesigned from scratch to deliver the optimum balance between sporty performance and comfort and contributes to an overall weight saving of up to 65 kilograms. The new chassis systems include the adaptive three-chamber air suspension, electric roll stabilisation, and the 4D Chassis Control. The Porsche Surface Coated Brakes, which come as standard in the Turbo, make a global debut and offer improved responsiveness as well as an up to 30% longer service life. Another first is the rear-axle steering as an option, as well as a mixed tyre configuration. The new Porsche Cayenne at AED 313,200, Cayenne S at AED 381,300, and Cayenne Turbo at AED 582,000 are now available at dealerships across the UAE.

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ART & DESIGN · COLOR CODED LIVING

COLOR CODED LIVING Let the warmth of Fall/Winter colors inspire your home

Wonderlust Blue Pagoda Candle Wedgwood, $66

Wonderlust Blue Pagoda Photo Frame Wedgwood, $114

Green Couture Pouf Lorenza Bozzoli, $1,760

Purple Couture Pouf Lorenza Bozzoli, $2,130

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Velvet Cushion Gucci Decor,$1,250

Pill Bright Rug The Rug Company, $7,869

Beautiful Catrina Figurine, Limited Edition LLadro, $3,200`

Credenza Editions Milano, $24,490

Velvet Cushion Gucci Decor, $1,150

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A RT & D E S I G N · AT L A N T I S 2 . 0

ATLANTIS 2.0 The Royal Atlantis at the Palm promises to be a unique luxury experience in the sky Designed to be the centrepiece of the 2020 World Expo in Dubai, The Royal Atlantis will offer premium hospitality and residential experience unlike any other in the world. Scheduled to open in late-2019, this unique beachfront community is located on the crescent of the Palm, adjacent to Atlantis, and will offer a vibrant dining and leisure experience. “The time is right for the next phase of the iconic Atlantis brand. Taking resort living to new luxury heights, The Royal Atlantis Resort & Residences responds to a calling from a highly discerning, affluent, international demographic seeking a new class of offering, currently not available elsewhere in Dubai,” said Issam Galadari, Director of the Royal Atlantis Residences. The Royal Atlantis is a unique 43-storeyed building offering dramatic views of the Gulf and Dubai skyline. Its form is as much defined by its voids as by the structure itself. The building turns these open spaces into a series of lushly-landscaped terraces and “sky courts” with private pools and shaded gardens. These openings maximise exposure to the direct prevailing sea breeze to passively cool them for much of the day and most of the year. They also ensure that a substantial number of the hotel’s rooms and residences have direct access to private pools and shaded gardens. Rooms without direct access have deep private balconies. The building’s two terraced towers step down towards one another and are linked by the sky bridge which is punctuated with pools, lounges, and other amenities that create a lush oasis stepping down to the tranquil Palm Island lagoon below. The structure will offer 231 residential homes comprised of two, three, four and five-bedroom units including Skycourts, Penthouses and Garden Suites, ranging between 1,434 and 17,088 square feet with prices starting at AED 6,995,000 (approximately $1.9m or £1.4m). The project houses more than 90 swimming pools in total.

Residents can choose from 82 individual layouts, each providing ceiling heights of up to 3 meters and offering water views. Custom closets and bespoke fittings feature throughout the property, ensuring each apartment can be tailored to its owner’s requirements. Handmade artwork can also be custom-made exclusively for residences. Kitchens feature a combination of white quartz and marble countertops, Gaggenau and Miele appliances with handcrafted storage units. Many of the residences have their own terraced gardens with private infinity pools. The four exquisite penthouses provide their own unique specification palette. The hotel component is in the west wing of the property and will offer 795 guest rooms and suites. The two wings are united by the shared amenity of the sky bridge. The other amenities, also shared by residents and guests, include 24-hour concierge, exclusive beach club, a premium fitness centre, food and beverage outlets with award-winning celebrity chefs as well as the roof-top restaurant, upscale retail boutiques, private parking, conference space, and the expansive, light-filled, central lobby which serves as the heart of the complex. The Sky Pool and Lounge will redefine entertainment in Dubai with infinity pools and private cabanas, which transform at night into a spectacular playground in which to dine and socialise. An in-resort Givenchy Spa with indoor and outdoor pools will offer exquisite traditional and holistic practices, fused with modern spa therapies. Residents will also have the luxury of ordering room service from the 23 dining establishments at Atlantis, including those of the Michelin Star grade. “The high-net-worth global citizen is ready for the new dawn of residential experience. The development will become the new landmark of Dubai and will support the ‘Dubai Plan 2021’ in positioning the city as one of the best places to live in the world,” added Issam Galadari.

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The Royal Atlantis

The Rose Gold Lounge

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L A D O L C E V I TA · O B J E C T S O F D E S I R E

OBJECTS OF DESIRE We bring you a selection of our favourite must-have items this season

AeroBull HD Bluetooth speaker AeroBull HD1 speakers combine wit and function to deliver crystalline sounds through a sophisticated 2.1 stereo system dispatching two front drivers and an exclusive low-turbulence ported subwoofer. It is available in white, red and matt black with either chrome or painted finish and can be connected through a smartphone, Bluetooth, or NFC.

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Renzo Romagnoli Vertical Cigar box Renzo Romagnoli Vertical Cigar box, handmade In Italy, is elegant and completely accessorised to store cigars, thanks to its humidification system. The inside is cedar wood, while the outside is upholstered in calf leather with a brown crocodile print. It has an internal dimension of width 15.5, depth 1 0.5 and a height of 24 centimetres.

Shagreen chocolate chess set by Aerin Shagreen chocolate chess set by Aerin has given the timeless game a contemporary twist with streamlined chess pieces cast in zinc, one in black and one with a gold-plated finish. It is presented in a stylish shagreen box crafted from inlaid burlwood and finished with brass detailing.

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L A D O L C E V I TA · L E T ’S S E T S A I L

LET’S SET SAIL Bvlgari unveil their first Yacht Club and Marina at Dubai’s Jumeira Bay Dubai has accrued an impressive list of ‘world-firsts’, particularly in the luxury sector. Now it can boast another, the world’s first Bvlgari Marina and Yacht Club, part of the Bvlgari Resort and Residences situated on the exclusive Jumeira Bay, the seahorse-shaped man-made island just off the coast of Dubai. The yacht club’s theme recalls an Italian harbour village, which is a continuum of the distinctive Mediterranean feel of the whole development. The Bvlgari resort and residences are built around a manmade cove with one end occupied by the resort while the other end houses the exclusive yacht club. Running along the crescent-

shaped shoreline in between the two are the six residence buildings, the promenade and the marina. The yacht club overlooks the opening of the cove with one side facing the Arabian Gulf and the other facing the resort across the opening of the cove. Amenities at the club include the restaurant, outdoor pool with an attached pool bar and the Little Gems kids’ club. A casual but chic hideaway, the restaurant and bar at the yacht club serves casual Italian snacks and seafood including oysters and decadent caviar plates during lunch and dinner. In keeping with the club’s theme, the dining area is surrounded by vintage

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L A D O L C E V I TA · L E T ’S S E T S A I L

The Bvlgari Yacht Club Members’ Lounge

The Bvlgari Yacht Club Members' Lounge

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The Bvlgari Yacht Club Pool

photos of celebrities at the seaside or aboard Riva yachts. Guests are served by staff attired in vintage naval-inspired uniforms, and with a custom designed chinaware collection by renowned Italian firm Richard Ginori. Other design features include a sailboat-timber walkway, chrome ‘guardrail’ parapets, a raised platform designed like the step in a boat, cream-leather seats reminiscent of Riva yachts and the crafted teak floorboards of a ship, making it the perfect spot to lounge while staying on terra firma. The custom-designed Bvlgari bar with its light-magnifying chandelier was created in partnership with Fresnel lenses, the most prestigious manufacturer of lighthouse glass, to maintain that nautical touch. The yacht club is a place to escape, relax and socialise. Patrons can enjoy their time in the club’s library where they will find a range of books from classics to photo stories of the Bvlgari history. For those seeking a slightly up-tempo atmosphere, there is a separate DJ and dance area to while away the evenings by the water. The Yacht Club pool, open from 9 am to 7 pm, is a destination in itself as it offers something for the whole family. Ideal for long days basking in the sun with families and friends, the pool offers

cabanas and sun beds for rent, and an extensive pool bar menu. The kids will have plenty to do with the combination of the kids’ pool and the Little Gems Kids’ Club. The 50-boat marina space is divided into four sections of boat decks: Section A is 10 metres providing 16 amps of power, section B is 15 metres providing 32 amps, section C is 20 metres providing 63 amps, while section D has four 40 metres berths providing 125 to 250 amps of power. The bay is also authorised as a superyacht anchorage. The services offered by the marina include concierge assistance, onboard spa treatments, butler service, F&B services, club car and buggy service, 24-hour specialised dockhand assistance, housekeeping and ice delivery, garbage removal and pump out services. For DP registered boats, the marina offers ‘Dock and Dine’ service which offers free berthing for 4 hours while using one of the resort’s outlet. Marina Membership Benefits include entry to the yacht club pool and bar, members lounge and library; free monthly use of the Yacht Club Board Room; 20 per cent discount in select resort outlets, on spa memberships as well as on spa treatments, and on room rates.

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L A D O L C E V I TA · A F U S I O N L I K E N O O T H E R

A FUSION LIKE NO OTHER SHA Wellness Clinic uniquely blends traditional and modern treatments to offer a holistic healing process The Valencian province of Alicante has a shoreline known popularly as Costa Blanca which forms a part of Spain’s picturesque Mediterranean coastline. Not far from these azure waters, on the edge of a coastal nature reserve, is located the SHA Wellness Clinic, where “the overriding intention is to help society through the care of both mind and body, by means of the ideal combination of ancient oriental techniques and the ultimate advances in western medicine.” This year, SHA has taken its unique blend of holistic healthcare philosophy to the next level by launching SHA Residences, “a new way to experience the transformation to optimum health while enjoying spacious residences that care for the environment and those who actively use it.” The story of the SHA Wellness Clinic began as a result of the personal tribulations of Alfredo Bataller Parietti, the founder of SHA clinic, who suffered a series of chronic health problems spanning a period of almost 25 years. After numerous unsuccessful visits to a long list of specialists, he decided to seek out a holistic and permanent solution to his ailments. At this difficult juncture in his life, he says he found a doctor who was a leading expert in nutrition and natural therapies. As a result of this new approach, Bataller recovered his health through the curative power of healthy nutrition. He then made it his life’s mission to share and disseminate the invaluable lessons he had learned. With the support of his family, he established the SHA Wellness Clinic ten years ago. It is a unique project that blends the best of traditional Eastern wisdom such as Ayurveda, Yoga, Taichi and acupuncture, with the latest advances of Western medicine. According to the clinic, “the mission is to produce a positive, nourishing and long-lasting change in people’s wellbeing, thus re-establishing a harmonious balance between body, mind and

spirit. These results are established through an incredibly wide variety of treatments, consultancy and medicines whereby programs are meticulously prepared aligned to the needs of each individual.” The “incredibly wide” variety of treatments offered at SHA fall under two broad areas: Wellness and Clinic. Some of the treatments offered in the Wellness area consists of traditional, oriental and signature massages as well as body wraps and scrubs; facial treatments administered by Evidens de Beauté, iS clinical, and Sepai among others; specialised body treatments such as Vela Shape III, electro-lymphatic drainage, cryotherapy and oxygen bar; water therapies such as watsu, ai chi, and hydromassage baths; customised fitness with a personal trainer; body and mind disciplines such as yoga, aeroyoga, meditation, and chi kung; cooking classes that teach how to prepare delicious and healthy dishes. The services offered in the Clinic area are medical consultations, diagnosis and treatments. The latter includes traditional Chinese medicine, acupressure, moxibustion, cupping, and laser-acupuncture, osteopathy, initial energy health balancing, magnetic field therapy, bioelectric neuroregulation, hydrocolontherapy, non-invasive medical procedures for delaying the signs of ageing such as Medical LEDS, Intense Pulsed Light (IPL), Ultherapy, Thermage CPT, Liposonix, Dual Fraxel Laser; scalp and hair treatment, genomic and preventive medicine, revitalising medicine combining ozone therapy and serum therapy, regenerative treatments such as Autologous, plasma and stem cell treatments; psychology consultation and emotional coaching; dental health and aesthetics. These treatments can be availed à la carte as individual treatments after consultation with the concerned specialists. However, to get the most out of SHA’s philosophy of a holistic

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SHA Residences

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L A D O L C E V I TA · A F U S I O N L I K E N O O T H E R

SHA Residences

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SHA healthy lunch

approach, visitors are advised to choose from a bouquet of programs designed to take on the most common challenges of modern life. These programs generally require between 7 to 14 days of treatment at the clinic, but most are designed such that the core elements of the program can be practised at home, post-treatment. SHA’s Wellness program is a guide to living a healthy and conscious lifestyle. The Anti-Stress program is designed to reduce stress, migraines, headaches, anxiety and fatigue by focusing on healthy nutrition, natural therapies and exercises. The Fitness Program is aimed at improving the physical condition and overall health by creating a personalized health, diet and fitness plan. The Weight-Control & Detox program offers three options to detoxify the body and to overcome obesity and unhealthy eating habits. Healthy Menopause is a ten-day program designed to help women cope with the changes that occur in their bodies, to minimise the adverse effects, and to boost personal confidence. The Sleep Recovery program is designed to overcome sleeping disorders such as insomnia or sleep apnea. The Anti-Smoking program helps smokers overcome the habit in a healthy way while also preventing weight-gain through a healthy diet and exercise plan. The Life Reset is a broader rebalance program designed to eliminate professional or emotional stress by focusing on both physical and mental health. The Rejuvenation program includes unique anti-ageing treatments that combine millenary oriental techniques with the most advanced genetic and preventative medicine techniques. Our health, according to the experts at SHA, is affected not just by our lifestyle and diet, but also by the environment and the spaces we inhabit. To address this aspect of the healing process, the clinic has 93 suites that subscribe to SHA’s holistic philosophy. They are divided into four categories ranging from

70 to 300 square metres, and offer natural lighting, expansive view of the mountain or sea, large terrace and living room. For its 10th anniversary, SHA has decided to take this concept a step further by launching the SHA Residences, located in the middle of the Sierra Helada Natural Park, one of the primary bird reserves of Spain. This area boasts a comfortable microclimate with temperatures ranging between 15° and 25°C, and with 330 days of sunshine. “SHA has studied the relationship between wellness and built environments, working with its team of experts and prestigious architects and interior designers to create a new concept of spaces where design, materials and technology aim to actively contribute to an improvement in wellness. Carefully chosen layout, the integration of interior spaces with the outdoors to make the most of natural light, a respect for the principles of feng shui, the use of technology and automated systems adapted to wellness, chromotherapy and air quality measuring and purification systems are some of the elements that help to make these into healthy spaces. [These measures have] helped the buildings to obtain the highest environmental rating,” reads a statement issued by SHA. The residences are divided into three types: Garden, Premier and Penthouse. They range from 300 to 500 square-metres offering facilities such as fitness rooms, treatment rooms, hammams or sauna. All the residences boast spacious gardens and terraces with glass infinity pool. A large selection of SHA’s comprehensive health and wellness services can be enjoyed in residence, ensuring greater privacy, comfort and exclusivity. The residences are perfect for groups of friends, families or long-stay guests. Although SHA Wellness clinic continues to be an adults-only property, the residences are not. Not only are children permitted, but the residents can also request a program of activities specially designed to introduce the youngster in the family to the world of holistic wellness.

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L A D O L C E V I TA · A LU X U R I O U S A D V E N T

A LUXURIOUS ADVENT MR PORTER brings you a curated edit of the must-have grooming products for the holiday season From the well-groomed, welldressed to the well-read and the explorer, there is something for every man at MR PORTER, the award-winning online retailer for men. With the holiday season just around the corner, MR PORTER launches a limited edition 12 Days of Grooming Advent Calendar. “Our 12 Days of Grooming Advent Calendar is the perfect edit of self-care products for everyman during the holiday season.

From face scrubs to eye masks, we’ve worked with our brands to create an essential tool kit for our customers to look and feel their best as the winter elements arrive and the holiday festivities begin,” says Ms Fiona Firth, Buying Director, MR PORTER. The MR PORTER 12 Days of Grooming Advent Calendar is priced at $190 (AED 725). The calendar contains the following 13 travel and full-sized products for skin, body, hair and face, with hallmark items from some of the best names in grooming:

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“MAN-PERING” 1847, Dubai’s popular male grooming brand, expands its hold in the Emirates The award-winning and hugely popular executive male grooming brand, 1847, is renowned across the Emirates for its traditional concept with a contemporary edge, making it the “go to” destination for men who like to take extra care of themselves. 1847’s reputation is built on a portfolio of luxurious and essential services ranging from the classic haircuts to shaves, manicures to pedicures, as well as massages and facials. With the belief that grooming is as essential for men as it is for women, the brand prides itself in providing the best service to every guest who graces the chair. Their newest location at The Dubai Mall features the same exceptional standards as the brand’s other branches. The venue consists of state of the art “man-pering” stations, where gentlemen are exclusively catered to. The lounge also includes the Executive VIP room, made for guests looking for extra comfort and an intimate experience. The exclusive area offers gentlemen quality luxury treatment in a more tranquil space. “We are delighted to open the latest branch of 1847 in the prestigious Dubai Mall and look forward to the exciting months that lie ahead, as we move towards global expansion into leading markets. Our aim is to continue providing world-class grooming services whilst pioneering trends of innovation,” says Leila Sanii, Managing Director of The Grooming Company. 1847 can now be found in eight other locations across Dubai: Emirates Towers, Grosvenor House Hotel, Mirdiff City Centre, City Walk, The Walk at JBR, API 1000 along Al Wasl Road, and Springs Souk. In April 2018, the brand launched its first lounge in the capital Abu Dhabi, at Saadiyat Beach Club on the Island of Saadiyat.

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L A D O L C E V I TA · BE S T O F E C O - T O U R I S M

BEST OF ECO-TOURISM Whitepod Alpine Resort and Switzerland make the perfect combination for eco-tourism The phrase ‘ecological tourism’ may seem a good example of an oxymoron given the well-publicized ecological issues arising as a direct result of tourism. In recent years, however, there has been an increasing trend towards ecologically sound tourism. However, to experience the ultimate eco-tourism, one should stay at a genuinely eco-friendly resort located in the eco-friendliest country on earth. One combination that would comply with this criterion would be to stay at the Whitepod Alpine Resort in Switzerland. Switzerland topped the Environmental Performance Index (EPI) in 2018. The report, produced by the Yale Center for Environmental Law & Policy stated: “Switzerland’s top ranking reflects strong performance across most issues, especially Climate & Energy and Air Pollution. Within Environmental Health, Switzerland also stands out in Water & Sanitation. While Switzerland’s Biodiversity & Habitat score is 84.20, 62nd in the world, its protected areas have the top score on the representativeness index.” Whitepod, meanwhile, is an ‘eco-luxury’ resort in the Swiss Alps designed to combine ecology and luxury. Guests stay in semi-spherical independent pods with a self-supporting framework to minimise the use of building materials. To have minimal environmental impact, lighting is kept to a minimum at night, local spring water replaces bottled water, taps and showers are installed with water-saving devices, as well as timers on boilers. In spite of these austerities, the pods are deceptively luxurious. They are designed to be cosy cocoons that isolate the guests from any nuisance while offering breathtaking views of the Alpine landscape. The resort offers three types of pods and four suites. They all offer a large king-sized bed, bathroom with shower and toilets, a large terrace, free baby cot, additional accommodation on the mezzanine, and breakfast served at Pod. The standard “Cosy” pods are ideal for couples, families with children or for just two single adults. The “Family” pod can accommodate

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two children on the mezzanine. The “Deluxe” pods are ideal for extended stays offering extra comfort such as satellite TV, Nespresso machine, free WiFi, and massage administered in the pod. The Swiss Pod Suite is ideal for an authentic Swiss experience featuring old wood, Swiss design furniture, and bells to create a chalet atmosphere. Forest Pod Suite offers “the most luxurious birch forest” interior. The 007 Pod Suite provides the perfect romantic getaway with a sleek and futuristic ambience with high tech equipment. Apart from being larger than the regular pods, the suites have a large bathroom with walk-in shower, extensive mini bar, tea fountain, ecological AC, pellet stove, large terrace, and entertainment. Debuting this winter is the Zen Pod Suite. Designed by Montalba Architects to be the most relaxing hideaway of the Swiss Alps, it offers an elegant design inspired by traditional Japanese atmosphere along with an authentic Japanese Furo bath with a panoramic view of the Alps. The resort offers a wide range of massages including Ayurvedic, spring treatment with fresh floral oil, kids’ massage, sitting down massage, and those designed for pregnant women. These treatments can be administered at the treatment centre or in the pods. The resort’s mountain guides help guests tailor their outdoor activities to suit their needs. The region offers 25 kilometres of signposted hiking trails with some suitable for family and kids. The trails are open in the summers and winters. Also offered throughout the year is paragliding with a certified pilot and various indoor games. In the winter, the nearby village has two ski-lifts and 7 kilometres of red and blue slopes for skiing. Other activities include adventures on snow scooters, sledges, dog sledge tour and snowshoe hiking. Summer activities include horse riding, mountain biking, electric mountain bike rental, outdoor tennis, badminton, and table tennis.

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Whitepod Alpine Resort

Forest pod at the Whitepod Alpine Resort

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L A D O L C E V I TA · R E S TA U R A N T S

CITY ESCAPE The ‘Boulevard Chic Brunch’ by The Restaurant at Address Downtown is a feast for all your senses The Restaurant at Address Downtown is a one-of-a-kind dining concept designed to offer “a refreshingly original home-away-from-home experience,” with cuisine inspired by French and British flavours, and with intimate seating area designed to reflect the comforts of a plush home. And like any home kitchen, The Restaurant offers twenty-four-hour service. Unlike most homes, though, it offers views of Burj Khalifa and Downtown Dubai in all their glory, as well as stunning vistas of The Dubai Fountain. The Restaurant offers a choice of distinctive dining spaces such as the Lounge, Library, Dining Room, Living Room, Kitchen or the Gallery to retreat to, whether for breakfast, lunch or dinner. The terrace, meanwhile, is an enchanting space overlooking the hotel’s gardens and cascading swimming pool while also providing the perfect viewpoint to watch the fountain. After an indulgent meal, guests can retire to The Library for post-dinner beverages of their choice, or to enjoy signature tastes recommended by the resident sommelier.

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The Restaurant now also offers the ‘Boulevard Chic Brunch’ package, a Saturday brunch menu that includes a sumptuous array of culinary delights from the Mediterranean to the Middle East and Asia “with an emphasis on freshness, simplicity & flavour, utilising high-quality seasonal ingredients at their peak.” To complete the experience, these culinary delights are combined with a selection of beverages and music by the resident DJ to lift the spirits. Some of the delights on offer include seasonal young vegetable crudité with roasted cauliflower hummus and whipped guacamole, Oyster of the day, Mediterranean mussels with ceviche dressing, Hamachi Nigiri with Sturia caviar, Veracruz style Gambero Rosso cocktail, Roasted pickled beetroot with crumbled goat cheese & glazed walnut, Charentais melon with burrata & white balsamico, and Asian style hand chopped beef tartare. The Restaurant, Address Boulevard, Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid Boulevard, Downtown Dubai Reservations: dine@emaar.com, +9714-8883444 Timings: ‘Boulevard Chic Brunch’ every Saturday from 1 pm to 4 pm

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A MEAT LOVER’S PARADISE Serving the best steaks in town: Hunters Room & Grill Awarded 2017’s ‘Best Steakhouse’ by What’s On Dubai, Hunters Room and Grill is a Steakhouse like no other. The restaurant boasts a stylish décor of dark wood, an openview kitchen and slender dining tables making it the perfect place for a romantic evening or dinner with friends. Hunters focusses on prime grass-fed cuts of meat from New Zealand, Ireland and Australia and boasts thorough dry-aging of 15 days to 270 days. Also, being a passionate participant of the ‘Choose Wisely Campaign’, they ensure their fish is sustainably sourced by careful selection to help sustain local wildlife. The restaurant is very particular about the quality of ingredients used and the style of preparation. The open-view kitchen let’s you see the chefs in action as they work to serve

you their delicious dishes. Their signature dishes include appetisers of Fois Gras, the Seafood Tower and from the Butcher’s Block, the 270-day Grain-Fed Ranger’s Valley Black Onyx Marble Australian Rib Eye Steak (320g). The dessert menu is also sure to tempt every visitor even after they have had a satisfying meal. The restaurant offers promotions throughout the week such as ‘Huntress Ladies Night’ where ladies receive 50% off the menu and ‘Gentleman’s Agreement’ every Tuesday, giving them 50% off meat. Hunters also hosts the Bubbalicious Brunch every Friday from 1 pm to 4 pm where it serves the best roasts, steaks and prime cuts of meat. Hunters Room & Grill, The Westin Dubai Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina. Reservations: 03034.restaurants@westin.com, 04-5117373

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L A D O L C E V I TA · A N A S I A N TA L E O F E X C E L L E N C E

AN ASIAN TALE OF EXCELLENCE Meet Alan Sun, the Chinese Executive Chef of T’ang Court at The Langham, Shanghai, Xintiandi Chef Alan Sun, a native of Hong Kong, draws on more than three decades of culinary experience as he steers T’ang Court at The Langham, Shanghai, Xintiandi, a two Michelin star restaurant that has won numerous international culinary awards over the years. Chef Alan began his career in a Chinese kitchen at the tender age of 15 and toiled his way up the ranks to become a chef in such respected Hong Kong establishments as Maxim’s Catering Limited, Lei Garden Restaurant, and Harbour Plaza Hotel. In 2003, Chef Sun joined the renowned contemporary Cantonese restaurant Ming Court located in Hong Kong’s five-star Cordis Hotel, where he assisted the Chinese Executive Chef in setting up its operations. In 2005, Chef Sun took the bold step of moving to Mainland China to further advance his career. He served as the Chinese Executive Chef with internationally renowned five-star hotels Shangri-la Ningbo and Intercontinental Fuzhou. Chef Sun hosted Chinese dinners and banquets for several dignitaries and celebrities, which led to his culinary skills receiving high praise recognition. In 2010, he was sent to Moët et Chandon Champagne Cellars in France for the Wine and Dine Congress attended by some of the world’s most famous chefs. We had a chance to interview Chef Alan Sun to know in depth about him and the cuisine Cantonese that he specializes in. From working in Chinese kitchens since the age of 15 to becoming the Executive Chef at the Michelin-starred T’ang Court at The Langham, what has your journey been like? As a teenager, I worked in the Chinese kitchen to make a living, but as time went by, I developed a keen interest in Chinese cooking. When I became mature, I put more and more focus on developing my Chinese culinary skills, as it was rewarding to witness the joy of my guests when they enjoyed my cooking. The appreciation of guests and their positive response on my dishes is the most important for me. I treasure their comments and always strive to make improvements accordingly. It is the dream of every chef to attain Michelin Stars and I am really thrilled to have attained Two Stars awarded by Shanghai Michelin Guide 2019. The kitchen has become the core part of my life, I shall continue to devote myself to perfect my culinary skills. How is Cantonese cuisine different from other Chinese cuisines? Cantonese cuisine always puts focus on the original taste; all cooking techniques are to bring out the authentic flavours of the food itself. Instead of masking the key produce with heavy sauces or spices, patrons expect to enjoy the genuine flavours of the food when they have Cantonese cuisine. What are the spices traditionally used to prepare Cantonese food? Cantonese food rarely applies heavy spices or spices at all for 108

seasoning. As I’ve mentioned, the essence of Cantonese food is about the original flavours of the ingredients. Having said that, Chiu Chow cuisine, which is also a type of Cantonese food, does pair with some kind of special spices. E.g. for Stewed Beef Brisket, you have to use Sichuan Pepper and Anise to cook the meat, and for the Marinated Goose and Tofu, chefs have to use brine. How do you source the ingredients? Are they readily available? I visit the wholesale food market and wet market very often. From there I can source fresh and seasonal seafood, fungus, vegetables and more. It is important for a Chinese chef to get fresh seasonal ingredients to cook. E.g. in March and April, the Bamboo Shoot tastes the best, in April, fungus or mushrooms are also at their peak and are delicious. October is the best time to enjoy Portunid (a type of crab). What is the style of cooking followed when making Cantonese food? The essence of Cantonese cuisine is all about the original flavours. There are different ways of cooking like steaming, stewing or stir-frying. Nothing should be overdone, and the control of the temperature is the critical success factor. E.g. when one stir fries a dish, it must be with appropriate “Wok Hei” (wok temperature) and the food will be fragrant and appetizing. If you had to share one cooking tip with us, what would that be? The ingredients must be fresh, and one must understand thoroughly its nature in order to prepare it in the right cooking method. What is your go-to Cantonese food? Whenever I am back in Hong Kong, I visit Ming Court at Cordis Hong Kong to enjoy their stir-fried dishes. I am emotionally attached to the restaurant as I’ve worked there and opened the restaurant years ago. Which is that one Cantonese food that we must try making ourselves, and would you please share the recipe with our readers? Readers can try to make my signature dish of Braised Red Lobster with Steamed Egg White and Minced Sea Urchin. This dish brings out the original flavours of the key ingredients and can be regarded as an example of an iconic Cantonese cuisine. 1. Prepare a rich and fragrant chicken stock - which is fresh chicken soup cooked for about 8 hours 2. Apply the chicken stock to a 300gm Australian lobster 3. Steam the egg white with minced urchin (one piece) for three to four minutes 4. Then place the lobster on the egg white and pour the chicken stock over it.

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T’ang Court A La Carte Dining

T'ang Court core team members with Chef Alan Sun (bottom left)

Braised Red Lobster with Steamed Egg White and Minced Sea Urchin

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L A D O L C E V I TA · R E S T I N G M E AT

RESTING MEAT While cooking the perfect steak is a form of art, science also has a significant role in the outcome. We delve into the science of resting the meat after cooking and why this forms an integral part of perfecting your steak There is something about cooking meat that inflames passions and polarises opinions, be it about the ingredients to use or about the best methods. One such issue that had divided opinions over the years has been whether or not to let the meat rest after its cooking before cutting into it. The old wisdom was of the opinion that meat should be allowed to rest while some contested that it did not make any difference. Science is often the best adjudicator in such disputes, and the verdict is firmly in favour of letting meat rest; here is the reason why. The pleasure of biting into a steak, roast beef or a festive turkey is determined by three factors: The tenderness of the meat, its flavour, and what is commonly referred to as the meat’s ‘Juiciness.’ The tenderness and flavour are determined by factors such as the age of the animal, what it was fed with, how it was reared, and so on. The juiciness of the meat, however, is determined by how the meat is cooked and treated after the cooking process is over. As we now know, all meats contain water with their cells. When any voluminous meat is cooked, the heat causes the water within the cells of its outer portion to move towards its interior. Moisture in the exterior is also lost through evaporation. The moisture, therefore, concentrates towards the centre of the meat while the exterior tends to be drier. This is the state the meat will be in when removed from the fire, and if one cuts

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across it right away, it will be moist and oozing juices in the centre while the exterior will be dry. The loss of juices means dry meat and a loss of flavour. The outward diffusion of water from the cells occurs because heat causes the muscle fibres to contract, which in turn squeezes the cells causing the water to ooze out. The higher the heat, the greater the contractions, which is why the hotter exterior experiences greater water loss. When the meat is removed from the heat source, this process reverses itself whereby the cell volumes expand and reabsorbs the water. This relaxing of the muscle fibres within the meat begins to take place when its temperature drops to around 50o Celsius. The amount of time a meat dish should be allowed to rest for depends very much on the meat, its volume, method of cooking and so on. There is a limit to the elasticity of meat, which in culinary terms, is known as overcooking, and it does two things. One is that it causes excessive evaporation leading to the meat becoming dry. The other thing is that it permanently changes the structure of the meat fibres which prevents it from returning to its near original volume. So, to enjoy a bite of tender, flavourful and juicy steak, roast or festive turkey, the first step is to choose high-quality meat. Then when cooking it, ensure that it is not overcooked, but just right. Finally, let the meat rest after cooking, to allow the juices to redistribute itself more evenly.

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L A D O L C E V I TA · L’ E T O ’S S E C R E T

L’ETO’S SECRET Meet Artem Login, the young, dynamic co-founder and CEO of L’ETO Café and Secret Garden by L’ETO L’ETO means Summer in Russian, the mother tongue of Artem Login, the co-founder and CEO of the London based L’eto café; a family owned business known for their exceptional trademark cakes, a variety of unique blends of tea and coffee, as well as their breakfast menu which serves some of the most popular comfort foods from around the world. They currently operate five branches in London; Soho, Brompton, King’s Road, Belgravia and Mayfair. Due to their popularity among the GCC nationals in London, the first L’eto branch to open outside London was in Dubai. Now there are as many L’eto branches in the UAE as there are in London; three branches in Dubai, at City Walk, Mall of the Emirates, and Dubai Mall; and two in Abu Dhabi, at Galleria Mall and Yas Mall. Secret Garden, the latest concept by L’ETO is now open and is located in Dubai’s trendy shopping and dining hub, City Walk. The new café is serving Dubai residents the ultimate instagrammable experience, with more than 40 brand new cakes and desserts to choose from, as well as deliciously fruity mocktails and creative coffees. The Secret Garden by L’ETO experience was crafted with a

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boutique style in mind, taking inspiration from relaxing time spent in a garden, and the famous Beverly Hills hotel. The enchanting cafe offers a wide range of signature drinks, that create unforgettable, picture-perfect moments, including the showstopper ‘Beauty and the Beast’. This drink is a mixture of flavours poured into a martini shaped glass, trapped under a glass dome filled with beautifully scented rose smoke. Upon lifting the glass dome, a great amount of ‘smoke’ spills onto the table covering it with a mystically beautiful blanket of scent creating a one-of-akind experience. This delectable drink is composed of rose water, rose syrup, elderflower tea and cordial. Guests can also enjoy traditional drinks with a twist such as ‘Marhaba’, which means hello in Arabic. This drink is created by mixing freshly brewed espresso with generous amounts of cinnamon and cocoa, with a hint of caramel sweetness. What makes this coffee unique, is that it is paired with cardamom and saffron infused sweet cream and is the perfect all-day treat for any sweet craving. In addition, there is a weekly offer of special coffee blends, which can only be discovered at the venue.

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The menu also features many decadent desserts, paired perfectly with the drinks available, such as the ‘Rose Blackberry Pavlova’, ‘Umm Ali Blueberry Pudding’, and the ‘Ricotta Raspberry Cheesecake. Other sweet highlights include the ‘Blueberry & Apple Napoleon Cake’ and ‘Dulcey Nougat Cake’, which can both be enjoyed with one of Secret Garden’s creative coffees. Signe met up with Artem Login in Dubai to learn more about him and his unique adventure behind L’eto and the newly opened Secret Garden by L’ETO. Tell us your story, and about how L’eto came into existence. L’eto is co-owned by my father and myself. My father is the creative mind behind our cakes. He has a great deal of experience in the restaurant business with various cuisines such as Italian, Japanese, Middle-Eastern, Uzbek, and so on. I used to help him and was brought up with the idea of one day being in the restaurant business. My family originates from Russia. I was just 15 when I first arrived in London. I had finished my mid-school in Russia before moving to London where I finished the rest of my education. For me, the

Artem Login, Co-founder and CEO of L’ETO café and the newly opened Secret Garden by L’ETO SIGNÉ · EDITION 32

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L A D O L C E V I TA · L’ E T O ’S S E C R E T

Secret Garden by L'ETO

only career choice was to follow in the family tradition and start a café. My focus was not on the concept of the café but rather on the fact that my father is highly talented at baking cakes. Also, I wanted the cakes to be unique in flavour, use natural ingredients and be served fresh. In 2009, we managed to secure a small 70 square metres shop in Soho. The location is now highly sought after but back then, in 2009, there was the credit crunch, so the property was within our budget. Although the shop was small, it had a large storefront. So, we put all of our cakes on the storefront display, and this became our marketing strategy to attract the people passing by. This proved especially effective in the late evenings when people heading home after the evening shows would see our display and come in for a bite. Many returned. Cakes became our number one business driver. Our business grew by word of mouth at such a rate that, just one year later, we were able to open our second location within London. It was in an upmarket neighbourhood. So, we had to redefine ourselves as a high-end café catering to

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wealthy individuals with refined taste. From there, we gradually expanded to having five branches in London. How did L’eto become popular with GCC nationals? Our expansion led us to open a branch in Belgravia which has a sizable GCC population. We became quite popular among the GCC crowd. There was one cake in particular, the milk cake, which was incredibly soft and tasty but was visually not very appealing, and therefore, initially, it did not do well. Around 2012, some people from the GCC tried it, liked it, and posted it on Instagram. Suddenly, without us realising it, the milk cake had become one of the most popular cakes. What prompted you to expand to Dubai as the first location outside London? When I first came to Dubai, I had almost no knowledge about the Middle-East. As I began meeting people, a lot of them told me that they had eaten at L’eto and loved what we had to offer. Also, even though it was my first visit, I felt at home

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here. So, the next time I came to Dubai, it was to seriously look at setting up a branch here. As of now, we have three locations in Dubai and two in Abu Dhabi. Regionally, we have franchises in Qatar and Kuwait, and we are in the process of setting up a branch in Oman. We are also looking at expanding into other locations within the GCC. So, right now, we have 12 outlets in the region plus one about to open in Oman. Secret Garden, your new venture, what is it about? When we analysed our customers, we found that 60 per cent of them are women. Also, they have a different approach to fine dining than men. To cater to their specific tastes, we are launching the Secret Garden concept. It will be completely independent, with a very feminine floral decor that is light and refreshing. The menu will be focused on cakes and drinks, so we have come up with 40 different kinds of cakes and have created 12 different cocktails based on natural herbal ingredients to go with the botanical

theme. We will also serve different coffee blends every day. Tell us about the L’eto interior concept? The Interior design concept of the brand mostly evolved with the needs of each new store we opened in London. This is why each branch has a distinct identity. However, there are some core ideas that you will find in every branch. For example, there is a very colonial English feel to the decor, which gives it a somewhat timeless feel. Also, being a family owned business, we like to create a homely atmosphere in our cafés. This why we choose soft colours, bookshelves, soft chairs and so on to decorate our cafés. The furnishings we use in our cafés are the same as you would find in people’s living rooms. What are the significant trends and challenges you foresee in this region? In my opinion, the region is spoilt for choice. The people have tried and are familiar with almost every brand that

exists. So, the real differentiating factor in the near future will be the quality of the product rather than the brand itself. I see consumers migrating from branded high-volume vendors to high-quality vendors. Also, the number of highquality gyms coming up here in Dubai implies a trend towards a healthier lifestyle which in turn, means a trend towards healthier diets. How do you source your materials? When I first came to Dubai my expectations regarding the availability of raw materials was not very high, but I soon discovered that almost everything we required is available locally. Dubai is a well-established hub. When I went to the trade exhibition called Gulf Foods, I was amazed to see that in six huge warehouses there were people from all over the world displaying their products. I have not seen a food trade fair of this size even in London. This was an important factor in convincing me that Dubai was ready to taste something new.

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Furthermore, it is a completely open market. You can import any food item you require from anywhere in the world provided you meet a few health and safety regulations which are reasonable, and you have to pay a low tax rate of just 5 per cent. For example, we import particular species of berries from Siberia that are used in brewing our teas. This is very easy to do here in Dubai as compared to other markets. What are your plans for the L’eto brand in the future? We started as a small cake shop in Soho. Even back then our ambition was to become a recognised brand while still being a family owned business. I think that we are still in the early stages of that journey. We are not everywhere in the world. Having said that, I don’t believe that L’eto is a brand you should see everywhere. There is a fine line between being big and being recognisable. So, as we grow, our focus must always be on our quality and not on quantity.

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L A D O L C E V I TA · C E L E B R AT I N G T H E E M I R AT E S

CELEBRATING THE EMIRATES The UAE Flag Collection from Forever Rose London is a nod to the brand’s ever-growing popularity in the Middle East and honours the UAE’s national day Forever Rose London has developed the “UAE Flag Collection,” to commemorate the 47th UAE National Day on December 2nd, using the world’s longest lasting roses. Forever Rose’s strong reputation amongst the royal families of Belgium and the UK has helped it become a favourite among the discerning connoisseurs of the Middle East who seek the very best in both quality and luxury. The exceptional quality of the Forever Roses is derived from the mineral-rich volcanic soils of Ecuador in South America, which give them their uniquely strong petals that are up to ten times thicker and five times larger than any other blooms available in the market. Without the need for

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water or sunlight, these outstanding roses retain their natural beauty “forever” when protected in a glass dome. The UAE Flag Collection includes the infamous Bella Rose, Flag Rose, Love Cage, Wall Frame Single Rose, and Wall Frame Full Flag, as well as Debailleul chocolate varieties, such as Debailleul Single Rose, Rose Garden, and Coco Soho. To pay homage to the father of the UAE, a beautiful portrait was curated from a photograph of H.H Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan holding a rose, which takes precedence in the boutique stores, and is available in both colour and black & white.

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