A Family’s Travel Survival Guide Text by Sara DeGonia Photographs by Giovanni Simeone
how to use this guide
You’ve saved your pennies, perused your page-a-day French calendar for a full year, and decided as a household to fly to Paris for a much-needed holiday. If your family is ready for a challenge and adventure, then you will surely reap the innumerable rewards of a memorable first trip to Paris, France. My First Trip to Paris is meant to offer guidance to navigate your family toward a successful and enjoyable vacation. Packed with tips and tricks from prices to potty breaks, this guide can provide a hint of flavor to inform you in your planning and journey. (Speaking of les toilettes, many public restrooms require a small fee, so have some small change euros on hand at all times.) Within these pages you’ll find recommended highlights and potential can’t-miss opportunities with a nod specifically to visiting each spot with children in tow. Taking into account activities and tidbits that might interest your kids, this guide seeks to prepare you for the endless possibilities that Paris has to offer! In turn, each entry lists a corresponding website where you can find logistical information like directions, hours, and fees if needed. Keep in mind a potential language barrier, and don’t let it stop you from enjoying every activity you encounter. Practice polite tourist etiquette, and you’ll find that most locals are happy to help you navigate your way around the city. In some ways, My First Trip to Paris is simply the story of a typical family—like so many others—exploring a city and taking a dream vacation. Be sure to bring along your metro map, French phrases, walking shoes, and sense of adventure; and your entire family will be ready to go. Bon voyage!
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LES ÎLES, les Halles, Le Marais ...................... 11 Louvre, OPÉRA ................ 65 Montmartre ................... 93 Concorde, CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES, Bois de Boulogne ........... 98 TROCADÉRO, Tour Eiffel, Invalides ...................... 120 Orsay, Montparnasse, Quartier latin, Luxembourg......... 149 AUSTERLITZ, Bercy, Bastille ........................ 169 canal st. martin, Belleville, la Villette ................... 191 Off the map ................... 211
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e d mpf Conciergerie p. 12 Soleillet rka............................................................... Obe Rue M 2 Sainte-Chapelle .......................................................... p. 14 Rue Av Gambetta ets M Gambetta Saint-Maur Blu Parmentier Rue Belgran des M ue 3 Cathédrale Notre M Dame deRParis ................................ p. 16 a mpf ett Av d b m e la a 4 Île Saint-Louis ............................................................ p. A18 Rép vG f ubliq mp ue Ru rka M ed be 5 Paris Plages ................................................................. p. 20 eO e Père Bd 6 Lachaise Rue Montorgueil ......................................................... p. 22 Vo rt e V lta in re i hem riè uC 7 re Jardin NelsonharMandela: Terrain n e d d'Aventures ............ p. 24 c astie Ru La Cimetière Séb e t u M Halles Père-Lachaise 8 Les R .................................................................... p. 26 Sain Rue Saint-Ambroise anti r u D 9 Musée p. 27 85 llot de la Poupée .................................................... Rue Richard-Lenoir M Trui Imp ée Bd 10 Centre Pompidou ....................................................... p. 28 Pel e u V te r R olt e Ve air Allé & Place Georges qPompidou ...... p. 30 11 Fontaine Stravinsky e e uett Ro de la p. 34 12 Musée des Arts et Métiers .......................................... e u R ert Philippe M in V 13 Gaîté Lyrique .............................................................. p. 38B et em Auguste u h g e dd uC M Voltaire Br ed ve 14RuePNY ............................................................................ Ru p. 39 e Charo let tru t ine no r a Vi lfo d nn Bag tte e e e Bréguet M B Rue de ue e e qu eS 8415 Square R d o du Temple ....................................................... p. 40 - Sabin u e R la R Ru de 16 MarchéRuedes Enfants Rouges ........................................ p. 42 Alexandre M Dumas Emi Rue ronne as e Cha p. 44 17 Le Progrès ................................................................... um Rue d eD M Charonne ndr e lexa 18P Breizh Café ................................................................. Bd A p. 45 e as Ru Vo sa nne lta ge haro mas ire Ru 19 Pink u C Flamingo ............................................................. p. 46 D e d Th ed ndre Rue ié e lexa ré Bastille 20 LapMusée de la Chasse et de la Nature ............................ p. 48 Rue A pe zy n M Ru a Ch ed 21 Musée Carnavalet ....................................................... Rue p.des50 uF M Rue aub Boulets our 22 g SMosaïque ..................................................................... p. 54 aint -An B vron M Buzenval e 23 CafétoinSuédois ue d’A ............................................................... p.d V55 olt M Ledru-Rollin Avron M R air ps Cham e 24 Le Royal Turenne ....................................................... p. 55 rands es G ue d R M Faidherbe 25 Place des Vosges .......................................................... - Chaligny p. 57 Rue de la Pla Ru Rue d u Fau eL bourg ac r Saint- p. 58 26 Place d du Marché Sainte-Catherine ............................ ué e Antoin e L 83 e Av 81 Rue de Lagny 27 L’Éclair Ru de Génie ........................................................ p. 60 e Nation M RER de Cours de Av du Trô 28 Musée deChla Magie ...................................................... p. 63 Vincenn n e Cours a erot
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Conciergerie Palais de la Cité ROYAL PALACE 1
1st arrondissement 2 boulevard du Palais www.paris-conciergerie.fr
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M4 Cité M17blbo Châtelet BC St-Michel - Notre-Dame
LES ÎLES, les Halles, Le Marais
If naughty behavior is creeping into your travels, consider giving the children an innocent scare with a visit to the Conciergerie, which served as a prison during the French Revolution. The monument is not spooky at all—rather a beautiful part of the former royal palace (Palais de la Cité) on the Île de la Cité— but mentioning an extended stay might be in the cards for any kids who don’t straighten up could very well help manners and conduct improve. Of course, if scare-tactic parenting isn’t your style, you can stick to the other fantastic features of this locale. Situated on the banks of the River Seine, the site served as one wing of the first royal palace in Paris, before being used to detain enemies of the Republic at the end of the eighteenth century. One such prisoner was Queen Marie Antoinette, who was held at the Conciergerie leading up to the day of her execution. Get a peek at her cell conditions, and discover what the circumstances were like for the captives awaiting trials—or unfortunate trips to the guillotine. Children receive free admission to this site, and if you have the Paris Museum Pass, the Conciergerie is among the included sites you can visit at no extra charge. If you’re in the area, this attraction won’t take more than ninety minutes, so it’s an excellent option for an unexpected hole in your itinerary. Signs for the exhibits are written in English, French, and Spanish. Make the visitors standing in long lines jealous by printing your tickets out online ahead of time to jump the queue, and consider combining with a trip to Sainte-Chapelle (page 14). Beward that not all areas of the building are particularly stroller-friendly, but the air conditioning is a welcome presence on a hot summer day.
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SAINTECHAPELLE
Palais de la Cité ROYAL PALACE 2
1st arrondissement 8 boulevard du Palais www.sainte-chapelle.fr
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M4 Cité M17blbo Châtelet BC St-Michel - Notre-Dame
LES ÎLES, les Halles, Le Marais
This exquisite Gothic chapel on the Île de la Cité features breathtaking stained-glass windows and photo-worthy architecture. A rainbow of colors floods in from sunshine beaming through the windows as you step inside—a sight that may be new and exciting for young children to enjoy. Of course, if your visit occurs on a cloudy day, you might be precluded from this particular effect. Stories of the Bible adorn the fifteen glass windows throughout the chapel, starting from the Book of Genesis and ending with Revelation. But whether these stories have significance to your family or not, the ornate nature of each pane will capture your attention with its artistic relevance. Constructed in the thirteenth century, SainteChapelle was originally built to house important relics of Christianity, including Jesus Christ’s crown of thorns, which no longer remains within the chapel. The site has undergone multiple restorations, with great measures taken to ensure as much consistency and preservation as possible. Admission is free for children under eighteen years old (and for others with the Paris Museum Pass), but do note that lines may be long, and you are required to pass through a metal detector to enter. Don’t miss the spiral staircase leading to the main chapel after you enter near the gift shop. If your children aren’t quite old enough to be entertained merely by stunning shades of color and impressive arches, then your visit will likely be rather quick. But if the lines aren’t too prohibitive as you happen upon Sainte-Chapelle, then a stop inside to witness a moment of historical beauty will be well worth your time.
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CATHÉDRALE NOTRE DAME DE PARIS CathEdral 3
4th arrondissement 6 Parvis Notre-Dame Place Jean-Paul II notredamedeparis.fr
rer
M1 Hôtel de Ville or Châtelet M4 Cité M7blbo Châtelet BC Saint-Michel - Notre-Dame
LES ÎLES, les Halles, Le Marais
It always helps to have an animated movie on hand when asking your children to relate to a historical location they might not otherwise appreciate. In this case, Disney’s The Hunchback of Notre Dame has done parents a favor by providing a reason for some young kids to care about visiting this famous cathedral. Or, if you’re the unlucky family who hasn’t seen the film, or read Victor Hugo’s original romantic-Gothic novel, perhaps you have religious ties to this Catholic church. But whether or not any of these factors apply to your group, it is still easy to admire the magnificence of this structure as you approach its 200-feet-tall presence, and further still if you step inside and view its wonderfully high ceilings. A long line for entrance might await you, so if you can convince one family member to hold your spot for a bit, the rest of you can spend some time at the playground in the adjacent park. Or try to plan your visit for first thing in the morning to avoid queueing entirely. Admission is free for anyone under eighteen years old. You’ll want to climb the south tower, about 400 steps, and join the intricate angels and gargoyles in looking out over sweeping views of Paris. Back inside you’ll find the imposing church bells, and, after descending from the tower, you can decide whether to join the throngs of others inside the church itself. With sculptures, stained-glass windows, stunning architecture, and an archaeological crypt within this Gothic cathedral on the Île de la Cité, you’ll have plenty to choose from, depending on your family’s interests. Finally, before heading to your next Parisian destination, take a moment to find a plaque in the area in front of the cathedral that reads “Point Zero,” indicating the middle point of France and of ancient Paris. Your child can stand on the plaque and be the center of attention as usual.
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Île Saint-Louis Saint-Louis Island 4
4th arrondissement
M7 Pont Marie
LES ÎLES, les Halles, Le Marais
Situated within the Seine River, and adjacent to the Île de la Cité, this natural island was originally two islets—one used as a cow pasture—before the halves were joined together to create Île Saint-Louis in 1614. Journey to the island on one of four bridges to admire exquisite homes in a peaceful setting just a short distance from the bustling metropolis that is Paris. Hand the reins to your children, and let inspiration choose your path as you stroll along these serene streets, looking for quaint shops or a quiet café and stumbling upon memorable moments of discovery and contentment. Perhaps youthful instincts will lead your family to Arche de Noé, an upscale toy store complete with wooden music boxes, cuddly plush animals, and elegant tea sets. Nearing holiday time? Pick up a preaddressed sheet of stationery at the register to send Père Noël (Santa Claus) a note of wishes. Walk along the tree-lined lanes, admiring the island’s ambiance, and stop to watch a street performer entertain. Explore charming boutiques, take in tranquil views of the Seine, and step inside the St Louis en l’Île church to listen in on choir practice—if your timing is right. Perhaps most important of all, be sure to visit the home of Berthillon ice cream, arguably the best in all of Paris (and beyond), with flavors like white chocolate, salted caramel, lavender, and even foie gras. The family-run business has operated for more than sixty years, and its frozen treats are sold in eateries throughout France. If you’re feeling reluctant to leave the idyllic island, consider extending your stay with some time in one of two parks. Play structures will entertain the kiddos while you imagine picking out the perfect château for your family to inhabit.
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PARIS PLAGES PARIS BEACHES (mid-july to mid-august) 5
Rive Droite from Louvre to Pont de Sully
M7 Pont Neuf or Pont Marie or Sully Morland Bassin de la Villette M257bis Jaurès www.parisinfo.com
LES ÎLES, les Halles, Le Marais
Should your visit fall in the summer months, specifically between mid-July and mid-August, make your way to Paris Plages—a series of temporary, artificial beaches for your sandy, sunbathing enjoyment along the banks of the Seine river. Marked by bright blue or white umbrellas, and even the occasional palm tree, this city-planned event brings a seaside sensibility to the steamy season for locals and tourists to appreciate. Although swimming in the river is not allowed, no doubt much to the chagrin of your amphibious children, a host of other features will prove appealing—especially if you can find room in the mini pool. Aspects of the setup change slightly every year, but you can expect paddle boating, mini golfing, and various food stalls, depending on the beach you choose. Luck might provide you an open set of deck chairs, an entertaining street performer, or a free musical concert. And recent years have included zip-lining and inflatable roller tubes specifically for children to experience. Most of the beach-centric games and sports take place on the large square facing the Hôtel de Ville, while water-based options are located at the Bassin de la Villette. Of course, no matter which sunny spot you select for the group, you can challenge the youngsters to a sand castle-building contest (bring your own water) and uncover the architect within. With easy access to an ice cream cone, plenty of activities to choose from or admire from afar, and a particular patch of beach to call your very own, some time relaxing at Paris Plages can prove just as rewarding on your vacation as any number of sightseeing ventures.
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itineraries Louvre, OPÉRA Musée du Louvre................................................ Palais-Royal ........................................................ Jardin des Tuileries ............................................. Galerie Vivienne (Si Tu Veux) ..........................
p. 66 p. 74 p. 72 p. 76
Begin bright and early on the expansive grounds of the Musée du Louvre, and break for lunch in a café across the street at the Palais-Royal. If you’ve met Mona Lisa, you can move on to the Jardin des Tuileries, where a playground, carousel, and mini trampolines await your bouncing children. Consider stopping by toy store Si Tu Veux in Galerie Vivienne for a keepsake from the day.
Concorde, Champs-Élysées, Bois de Boulogne Avenue des Champs-Élysées .............................. Ladurée............................................................... Arc de Triomphe................................................ Jardin d’Acclimatation .......................................
p. 104 p. 107 p. 109 p. 110
Stroll along the bustling Champs-Élysées with a stop for lunch and delicious macarons at Ladurée. Keep an eye on the prize as you walk your way toward Arc de Triomphe before heading to Jardin d’Acclimatation to delight in the amusements of a youthful paradise.
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TROCADÉRO, TOUR EIFFEL, INVALIDES Place du Trocadéro............................................. Champ de Mars.................................................. La Tour Eiffel ..................................................... Parc André Citroën ........................................... Bateaux Mouches ...............................................
p. 124 p. 134 p. 130 p. 141 p. 138
Capture the iconic landmark from every angle whether you start in the Place du Trocadéro to admire the fountains or hit the playgrounds across the way. Climb the Eiffel at your assigned time, and the rest of the day is yours to spend ascending in a hot air balloon or sailing along the Seine on a sunset cruise.
ORSAY, MONTPARNASSE, QUARTIER LATIN, LUXEMBOURG Musée d’Orsay .................................................... Mozza & Co. ...................................................... Les Berges de Seine ............................................ Flow .................................................................... Rosa Bonheur sur Seine .....................................
p. 156 p. 152 p. 150 p. 155 p. 152
Greet the morning with sunlight streaming through the glass ceiling of the Musée d’Orsay. After bidding adieu to the polar bear sculpture, grab lunch down by the Seine at Mozza & Co. Refueled and ready for fun, you’ll spend the afternoon exploring all the offerings along Les Berges. When dinner and drinks beckon, answer the call nearby at Flow for a burger or on Rosa Bonheur sur Seine for tapas with a river view.
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index
123 Ciseaux...........................................................................p. 118 Album Comics ......................................................................p. 162 Antoine & Lili ......................................................................p. 196 Arc de Triomphe ..................................................................p. 109 Avenue des Champs-Élysées.................................................p. 104 Bateaux Mouches..................................................................p. 138 Bercy Village .........................................................................p. 179 Bois de Vincennes et Parc Floral de Paris ............................p. 218 Breizh Café............................................................................p. 45 Café Suédois .........................................................................p. 55 Canal Saint-Martin ..............................................................p. 194 Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris .........................................p. 16 Centre Pompidou ..................................................................p. 28 Champ de Mars ....................................................................p. 134 Château de Versailles et Les Jardins ....................................p. 212 Château de Vincennes .........................................................p. 216 Cimetière du Père-Lachaise ..................................................p. 192 Cité de la Musique ................................................................p. 208 Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie ........................................p. 207 Colette ..................................................................................p. 91 Conciergerie..........................................................................p. 12 Disneyland Paris ...................................................................p. 226 Flow .......................................................................................p. 155 Fondation Louis Vuitton ......................................................p. 116 Fontaine Stravinsky & Place Georges Pompidou ................p. 30 GaÎté Lyrique ........................................................................p. 38 Galerie Vivienne (Si Tu Veux).............................................p. 76 Galeries Lafayette (Haussmann) ..........................................p. 82 Hôtel National des Invalides: Musée de l’Armée .................p. 142 Hôtel National des Invalides: Musée des Plans-Reliefs .......p. 146 Hôtel National des Invalides: Tombeau de Napoleon .........p. 144 Île Saint-Louis .......................................................................p. 18 Jardin d’Acclimatation..........................................................p. 110 Jardin des Tuileries ...............................................................p. 72 Jardin du Luxembourg ..........................................................p. 164 Jardin Nelson Mandela: Terrain d'Aventures ......................p. 24 L’Aquarium de Paris ..............................................................p. 128 L’Éclair de Génie...................................................................p. 60 La Coulée Verte René-Dumont (La Promenade Plantée) ...p. 182 La Patache Rotisserie............................................................p. 193 La Tour Eiffel ........................................................................p. 130 Ladurée .................................................................................p. 107 Le Café des Chats .................................................................p. 188 Le Crêperie Bretonne ...........................................................p. 166 Le Manoir de Paris................................................................p. 90 Le Musée des Arts Forains ...................................................p. 180 Le Musée Gourmand du Chocolat .......................................p. 88 Le Progrès..............................................................................p. 44 Le Royal Turenne .................................................................p. 55 Le Viaduc des Arts ...............................................................p. 184
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Le Zèbre de Belleville ...........................................................p. 200 Les Berges de Seine...............................................................p. 150 Les Docks (Cité de la Mode et du Design)...........................p. 174 Les Halles ..............................................................................p. 26 Les Magnolias .......................................................................p. 220 Marché d’Aligre ....................................................................p. 186 Marché des Enfants Rouges ..................................................p. 42 Ménagerie le Zoo du Jardin des Plantes ...............................p. 173 Mosaïque ...............................................................................p. 54 Mozza & Co. .........................................................................p. 152 Musée Carnavalet .................................................................p. 50 Musée d’Orsay.......................................................................p. 156 Musée de Cluny (Musée National du Moyen Age) .............p. 160 Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace ................................................p. 222 Musée de l’Homme ...............................................................p. 126 Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature .....................................p. 48 Musée de la Magie ................................................................p. 63 Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris..................................p. 127 Musée de la Poupée...............................................................p. 27 Musée des Arts et Métiers ....................................................p. 34 Musée du Louvre ..................................................................p. 66 Musée du Quai Branly ..........................................................p. 136 Musée en Herbe ....................................................................p. 78 Musée Grévin .......................................................................p. 84 Musée Rodin: Le Jardin de Sculptures .................................p. 147 Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle................................p. 171 Palais de la Découverte ........................................................p. 102 Palais de Tokyo .....................................................................p. 122 Palais Garnier .......................................................................p. 80 Palais-Royal...........................................................................p. 74 Parc André Citroën ..............................................................p. 141 Parc de Belleville ..................................................................p. 198 Parc de Bercy ........................................................................p. 177 Parc de la Villette .................................................................p. 204 Parc des Buttes-Chaumont ...................................................p. 202 Parc Monceau .......................................................................p. 100 Paris Plages............................................................................p. 20 Passage des Princes ...............................................................p. 86 Pink Flamingo ......................................................................p. 46 Place des Vosges ....................................................................p. 57 Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine ......................................p. 58 Place du Tertre ......................................................................p. 96 Place du Trocadéro ...............................................................p. 124 PNY .......................................................................................p. 39 Rosa Bonheur sur Seine .......................................................p. 152 Rue Montorgueil ...................................................................p. 22 Sacré-Cœur ...........................................................................p. 95 Sainte-Chapelle ....................................................................p. 14 Square du Temple .................................................................p. 40 Tour Montparnasse...............................................................p. 165
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