LIVING IN THE MAGAZINE OF THE AMERICAN ASSOCIATION
October-November 2021
American Diners
A History of the Diner’s Everlasting Charm
Singlish
Learn What It Is and How To Use It
Singapore’s Hawker Centers The History and Heritage of the Hearts of Communities
Plus: Holidays 101 The definitive guide to holidays in Singapore
Discover the Difference
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Our students follow a path that reflects individual choice, ability and personality, with a broad range of enrichment opportunities.
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singapore.dulwich.org admissions.singapore@dulwich.org (65) 6890 1003
We believe education has to be as flexible, creative and adaptive as our increasingly complex, ever-changing world.
We equip our students with the character to stand up and stand out, now and in the future.
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Dulwich College (Singapore) CPE Registration Number: 201027137D. Period of Registration: 09 Janurary 2020 to 08 Janurary 2024. School Location: 71 Bukit Batok West Avenue 8, Singapore, 658966
American Association of Singapore’s
Thanksgiving Dinner Cruise on on the the
Sponsored by
Singapore American School
Includes 2.5 Hrs Sunset Sailing · 3-course Thanksgiving Dinner Free Flow Soft Drinks · 2 Drink Vouchers · Cash Bar Silent Auction · $200 EstheClinic voucher · Lucky Draw Gift sponsored by Singapore American School
Set Sail
November 18, 2021 6:30-9:00PM Tickets: Members $250 Non-members: $275
For more information and to purchase tickets, scan or click here.
Official Sponsor
Singapore American School
who we are Fall has always felt like a time when traditions are aplenty. Thanksgiving is full of traditions for many American families. In my own family, three things were always a constant on Thanksgiving day: turkey with butter under the skin and bacon on top; our stuffing recipe with sage sausage and chestnuts; and homemade cranberry sauce. The allday cooking fest with family is what I miss most as an expat. Living abroad, we carry these traditions with us the best we can, and we pick up new traditions along with way, from the friends we make who become our family, and from the cultures we are immersed in. We share our traditions as well, bringing things like trick-or-treating and turkey dinners to a place like Singapore. In this issue, we take a look at some of those traditions, and some of the places that have become a part of the American and Singaporean culture. We explore the histories of both the humble American diner, and the lively Singaporean hawker center, and discover how both came about as a way to feed blue collar workers. We also examine how the traditional workplace is shifting, making it easier to work from anywhere in the world with an internet connection. And we share some examples of the way cultures have melded in Singapore to create the uniquely Singaporean language, Singlish. We hope you have a fun Halloween, and a Thanksgiving full of good food and good times with friends, or friends who are like family. And as always, stay safe!
EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief: Susan Williams communications@aasingapore.com Publishing Editor: Melinda Murphy generalmanager@aasingapore.com LAYOUT Graphic Designer: Susan Williams graphics@aasingapore.com ADVERTISING Advertising Manager: Thila Chandra advertising@aasingapore.com CONTRIBUTORS Holly Anthony, Anju Cawthra, Asif R. Chowdhury, Julian Abraham Chua, Cara D’Avanzo, Blair Hall, John Sarkis Hamalian, Richard L. Hartung, Dee Khanduja, Melinda Murphy, Theodorus Ng, Lily Ong, Sophia Ragland, Meg Farrell Sine, Lindsay Thomas, Josette Ungos, Glenn van Zutphen, Susan Williams AMERICAN ASSOCIATION BOARD MEMBERS President: Blair Hall Vice President: Michael Johnson Treasurer: Ashok Lalwani Secretary: Michael Murphy Directors-at-Large: Brooke Balfrey, Mkulima Britt, Lindsay Fipp, Dana Hvide, Naureen Rasul, Jennifer Yarbrough AmCham: Dr. Hsien-Hsien Lei The American Club: Neetu Mirchandani AWA: Linda Schindler SACAC: Jeff Majestic SAS: Kyle Aldous Non-Voting Members US Embassy: Brian Himmelsteib US Navy COMLOG WESTPAC: Rear Admiral Philip Sobeck AAS: Melinda Murphy PUBLISHER – AMERICAN ASSOCIATION The American Association of Singapore (AAS) is a professional, notfor-profit organization established to enhance the well-being and living experience of Americans residing in Singapore and to promote relationships, both business and social, between Americans and those from different cultures and nationalities. 56A Boat Quay, Singapore 049845 • (+65) 8030 6183 admin@aasingapore.com • www.aasingapore.com Living In Singapore magazine will be released six times per year, with the purpose of enhancing the expatriate experience in Singapore.
SUBSCRIPTION
A subscription to Living in Singapore is complementary with an AAS or CRCE membership. AAS annual family membership is $120. CRCE membership is $220.
Editor-in-Chief Susan Williams
To join, visit www.aasingapore.com and have Living in Singapore magazine delivered to your inbox. Reproduction in any manner, in English or any other language, is prohibited without written permission. Living in Singapore welcomes all contributions of volunteer time or written material.
what’s in... 10 Community News 22 Singlish
Singaporean lingo and slang to know
32 Heart of the Community
The history of Singapore’s hawker centers.
22
38 Holidays in Singapore
All you need to know about the major holidays celebrated in the Lion City.
46 American Diners
Learn the backstory of America’s beloved diner.
58 Earning in Singapore
Discover ways to earn money in SG without a work permit.
32
38 46
58
message from the president By Blair Hall Just as we were getting back into the groove of school and more “normal” work and social activities, we’re once again being hit with heightened COVID safe management measures. As Yogi Berra famously remarked, “It’s like déjà vu all over again.” We all appreciate that the emphasis must be on public health and the safety of our families but, still, it’s rather demoralizing, isn’t it? We can only try to stay positive and watch out for our friends and family members who may be struggling as they cope with the stress. AAS is here for you. We’ve got a great series of events planned for the fall months. To quote Yogi Berra again,“It’s tough to make predictions, especially about the future.” Nonetheless, we think many of our social, experiential, and charity activities are going to be able to carry on even under the enhanced social distancing measures. We’re planning AAS-exclusive neighborhood walking tours, farm visits, and outdoor volunteer activities that will provide interesting opportunities and real human interaction. Our Halloween event at Universal Studios and the Thanksgiving dinner cruise on the tall ship Royal Albatross both promise to be unique and memorable events. These all are designed to work within the prevailing safe management regime – so let’s hope for the best! Meanwhile, we’re continuing to offer a variety of exclusive virtual and in-person programs for members who want to understand more about starting an online business, improve their financial literacy or who would benefit from working with a career counselor. As a member-driven organization AAS is here to provide what you want – let us know! We wish you a spooky Halloween, a Thanksgiving full of family, food and gratitude, and new adventures around Singapore and – hopefully, soon – beyond. We at the American Association look forward to you seeing you soon!
American Community Organizations Directory AAS aasingapore.com
AWA awasingapore.org
SAS sas.edu.sg
The American Club amclub.org.sg
AmCham amcham.com.sg
Navy League nlus-sgp.org
SAIS sais.edu.sg
US Embassy sg.usembassy.gov
American Dragons americandragons.sg
SACAC Sports safl.sacac.com
Scouts BSA Troop 07: www.bsatroop07.org BSA Troop 10: www.sgtroop10.org BSA Troop 1010: sgtroop1010@gmail.com
6 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
Cub Scouts Pack 3010: www.sgpack3010.org Cub Scouts Pack 3017: cubscoutsusa.com.sg USA Girl Scouts: www.singaporeusagirlscouts.org
member benefits College Ready
100% discount on membership. Valid through 12/30/21. Estheclinic 10% discount for treatments. Valid 12/30/21.
all their through
The Fullerton Bay Hotel Daily breakfast, S$100 dining credit, and room upgrade. Valid through 12/28/21. See website for food and beverage offers. The Fullerton Hotel Daily breakfast, S$100 dining credit, and room upgrade. Valid through 12/28/21. See website for food and beverage offers. Hard Rock Cafe 15% discount on food and beverage upon showing a screenshot of your membership. Valid through 12/30/21. Hedgers Carpet Free high-quality underlayment with every purchase at our store (while stocks last). Valid through 12/30/21. Lawry’s The Prime Rib 15% discount for à la carte food bill for dine-in only. Blackout dates apply. Mr. Jeff Free pick up & delivery for Buona Vista/Pasir Panjang area. Valid through 12/30/21.
Marriott AAS members enjoy a 25% discount on F&B. Show a screenshot of your membership. Morton’s The Steakhouse Complimentary cocktail or mocktail (one per diner) and one complimentary dessert per table. Motorist
15% off car insurance quotes. Valid through 12/30/21. Omakase Burger Free side upgrade on any Omakase Burger set meals. 5% discount on total bill for dine-in only at the Orchard Central outlet. Valid through 12/30/21. The Shanti Residence AAS Members get 15% off room bookings directly. Solescape AAS members enjoy 15% discount on their purchase of a pair of shoes. Valid through 12/31/21. The American Club AAS members may order dinner from The American Club. UFIT Five PT sessions for $500; Three Bootcamps for $30; Recovery Services Bundle: 10% off packages.
Scan or click here for our full member benefits page and more details on each benefit. LIVING IN SINGAPORE 7
American Association Sister Organizations Click Through to Find Out What’s Planned at AAS and at Our Sister Orgs
American Association of Singapore AmCham
American Women’s Association Navy League
The American Club US Embassy
upcoming events Start Your Own Business Oct 12, 12:00 – 1:00 PM
Halloween at Universal with AAS Oct 30, 12:00 – 10:00 PM
Financial Literacy for Women Oct 19, 5:00 – 6:00 PM
Beach Cleanup with SAIS Nov 7, 9:00 AM – 12:00 PM
Geylang Walking Tour Oct 20, 7:00 – 10:00 PM
Career Storytelling Nov 9, 7:00 – 8:00 PM
Kok Fah Technology Farm Tour Oct 24, 10:00 – 11:00 AM
Teachers Night: Shakespeare Nov 12, 6:00 – 7:30 PM
Cooking Class with Emmanuel Stroobant Nov 13, 3:00 PM Growth Faculty – Turning the Flywheel with Jim Collins Nov 17, 6:00 – 8:30 AM Thanksgiving Sunset Sail Nov 18, 6:30 – 9:00 PM AAS Turkey Trot Nov 28, TBD
Starting an Online Business Oct 28, 2:00 – 3:00 PM
Watch our website for more events as they are added!
AAS Strategic Partners We would like to extend our thanks to our strategic partners at the Association for their continued support and contribution.
Patriot Partners
Stars & Stripes Partners
8 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
In an evening especially for our teachers and school administrators, enjoy the complete works of William
November 12, 6:00-7:30PM
Shakespeare in an irreverent, fast-paced romp through the best bits of the Bard’s plays. Watch as three actors weave their wicked way through all of Shakespeare’s 37 comedies, histories, and tragedies in one wild 97-minute ride that will leave you breathless with laughter!
Scan or click here for tickets!
Halloween at Universal Studios with AAS
October 30 12:00-10:00PM Tickets start at $99 Includes admission to USS, dinner & more Ticket sales close October 16
Scan or click here for more information and to purchase tickets:
Highlights From a Few Recent AAS Events
Dumpling and Wonton Virtual Cooking Class
One Kind House Peranakan Cooking Class & Dinner
AAS at Food From The Heart
AAS at ACRES
SAS Remembers 9/11: 20 Years Later By Cara D’Avanzo
“I happened to have the news on that night, and across the ticker came the words, ‘a small plane has hit one of the Twin Towers in New York City,’” recalls teacher Ian Coppell. For him, as for many in the Singapore American School community, this was the start of a profoundly sad and unsettling period. On the 20th anniversary of the events that would leave so many grieving and our world changed, community members who were in Singapore in 2001 recall what it was like to be connected to an American institution in the days, weeks, and months following the September 11th attacks. It was a different era and news traveled more slowly, especially for expatriates. “I was reading in bed,” recalls Karen FeistCoppell, Coppell’s wife and also an SAS teacher. “I came down [when Ian called] and saw the second plane hit. The next morning, we arrived at school well before 7 a.m. The office was quiet and dark. A colleague came in with a chipper ‘Good Morning!’ I asked her if she thought we would have an emergency faculty meeting and she asked, ‘Why?’ She heard the news first from me.” School was not canceled that day, and faculty grappled with how to share the news appropriately with each grade level. “I was teaching fifth grade at the time, and we decided to speak about it generally but not to share details or images of what had happened,” recalls Coppell. Half a world away and with limited home contact, the SAS community slowly took in what was occurring in the country many called home. Communications Director Kyle Aldous, then a twelfth grade student and new to Singapore, saw the news on the family television before school, and recalls, “It was a big topic of conversation all day long in classes and there was a sense of panic for people with family on the US East Coast.” Aldous’ clearest recollection centers on the SAS school buses: “I remember that overnight, it seemed, the US colors of red, white, and blue 12 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
were painted over in yellow. This was done to make us less obviously American, and so less of a target. That felt like a very stark change and the situation became more ‘real’ to me at that point.” Ann Tan, who was executive assistant to the superintendent, remembers, “The American community was totally traumatized. Several families kept their kids at home to help them manage the post-attack emotions. At school, psychologists, counselors, and faculty were all involved to help kids deal with this barbaric and cowardly attack on innocent lives.” Many remember the memorial event held at the old
National Stadium, when an estimated 15,000 Singaporeans, Americans, and others gathered to mourn and express solidarity. The SAS choir sang and students displayed a banner they had made that read, “We Are One.” In his remarks, Prime Minister Goh Chok Tong affirmed Singapore’s solidarity with the US: “Suddenly, we all felt vulnerable to terrorism. Humanity and the civilized world have been attacked. The world as we knew it on September 11, 2001 has changed forever.” The 9/11 attacks led to heightened security in Singapore, especially for institutions linked to the US and its allies. Police officers from the Gurkha Contingent counter-terrorism force were dispatched to guard such sites. In Coppell’s memory, the SAS superintendent received a letter stating that several Gurkhas had been assigned to
Banner made by students for the memorial service
the school; when he called to ask when to expect them, the answer was “they are arriving now.” The Gurkhas would maintain a campus presence for seven years, and adults and children alike were reassured by their stern demeanor, distinctive uniform, and visible weapons, including the impressive traditional kukri knife. In the following months, Singapore authorities broke up a terror cell planning attacks on Western-linked targets, eventually arresting nearly 30 people. “For us students, daily life went on,” recalls Aldous, “and we met friends at The American Club, had Halloween, and went on school trips.” But Coppell points out that measures we now take for granted were put in place then: “Of course, we think of stricter airport security, but there were less obvious changes, too. For instance, we may enjoy Holland Village’s weekend pedestrian mall without realizing that traffic was first banned there because, as a known gathering spot for Westerners, it was considered a potential target for a car bomb.” Schools, businesses, and public buildings enhanced security, while the government increased its surveillance capabilities. Security Manager Isaac Benjamin, who joined SAS in 2003, recalls that the ongoing “heightened alert” status was the new normal for the school. “For me, it was a tense period,” he recalls, ”and we were constantly on our toes.” The next few years saw attacks in Bali, London, and elsewhere. “I frequently had to consult the police and US Embassy on our escalation plans,” recalls Benjamin. With a grant from the US State Department, SAS upgraded its physical security with barriers, cameras, and smart technology. When the government finally determined it was safe to remove the Gurkhas, Benjamin says, “we were just reluctant to let them go. It took several high-level meetings with us at Jurong Police Headquarters for them to convince us.”
While no current SAS students were alive when 9/11 occurred, today they learn about it in age-appropriate ways at the school. Younger students engage in friendship-building exercises and teach each other about their cultures, while older students learn about the historical events through social studies lessons, advisory groups, and student-led activities. “Students today sometimes feel it is not relevant to them, or that they know it all already,” notes one teacher involved with the initiatives. “But it’s important that we transmit to them our memories of what a shock the attacks were to us and encourage them to get involved in making the world they are inheriting a better place.” As they thought back upon the events of 20 years ago, it was clear that for many in the SAS community, 9/11 will always evoke strong feelings. One of Tan’s friends visited the National September 11 Memorial & Museum recently and shared her pictures. Seeing photos of the former Twin Towers site, Tan — who has never visited New York — was deeply affected. “The memorial site sent a lump to my throat. Names of innocent dead—old, young, and children—were inscribed… We all need to count our blessings [and consider] their sacrifices a reminder to us to be gracious, be patient, be forgiving, and be thankful.”
Scrapbook page made by teacher Karen Feist-Coppell
LIVING IN SINGAPORE 13
living in s
I arrived here three years ago on July 4, and although jetlagged, I quickly got acquainted with new colleagues and Singapore by going directly to the embassy’s legendary Independence Day party at Gardens by the Bay. This is the longest time I’ve spent abroad aside from six months in Kuala Lumpur and a month traveling the region, and now I’m about to move back to the United States for the next adventure in my career. Growing up in Alabama, family is very important to me and despite having scholarship opportunities to another university, I followed in my father’s footsteps and graduated from Auburn University. I studied criminology and criminal justice where my dad studied business administration and was a criminal investigator for US Customs before it merged to become US Immigration and Customs Enforcement. Friends always thought he had a cool job and I never really considered doing the same thing until I graduated college. After an internship with the Secret Service, and another with Immigration and Customs Enforcement – where I discovered there were a lot of female agents with a wide variety of things to investigate – my decision was made, and I graduated the academy in 2007. It was quite special that my dad was able to present me with my badge and credentials. Being one of only four women in my class of about 20, and the youngest in my class, it proved to be a formative experience and I made bonds for life with everyone from the Secret Service to the US Marshals. Law enforcement is like a brotherhood/sisterhood and it’s nice to have family around the world. In fact, I met up with a classmate who was also posted to Singapore and had an immediate friend when I arrived!
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singapore
Humans of The Embassy Lindsay Thomas, Homeland Security Investigations
In my agency, Homeland Security Investigations, we investigate anything that crosses the US border, including, but not limited to, people, money, drugs, commodities, and wildlife. I enjoy the work because it’s wide-ranging, and we work closely with other agencies and Singapore counterparts. With the 20th anniversary of 9/11 this year, I am especially grateful for the important work my colleagues do daily. My parents are retired now, and my dad refurbishes antiques for fun. I look forward to being closer to my family again. I’m especially eager to decorate my new home with my dad’s US Customs flag that the family had framed for me. My dogs, Lola and Maggie, who have lived with me since I was 23 years old, will join as well. Lola, a Shih Tzu, is adorable and sassy and a few months after I got her I thought she needed a friend, so I got Maggie, a lively Yorkie-Maltese mix! It Lindsay’s father, George, presenting her with was wonderful having them in Singapore with me and her credentials at graduation from the Federal Law Enforcement Training Center in 2007. they’ve been good company through COVID. When I think of Asia and my travels, I will think of the hospitality, the history, and the culture. As for Singapore, the part I love most is, of course, the food and how happy people are when you’re willing to try new things, like durian! It’s not for me, but I enjoyed trying it! My favorite hawker stall is called NaNa Curry. There are multiple outlets, but I recommend Dover for a bowl of coral colored, spicy soup with chicken and one potato. It’s so good you can drink it! I will miss that the most, but my waistline is ready for a break.
LIVING IN SINGAPORE 15
New Spring By John Hamalian
The invisible foe revealed itself, slipping through the cover of night, infecting every corner of the globe with suffering, misery and blight
And the darkness was lifted! And the light poured through! the chests of the people breathed free again the lungs of the world breathed clean again
Yet it took this thing so very very small, a tiny speck, a little strand. Something the people could not even view, to finally see, to finally understand.
Then folk from across the four corners the six cradles, the seven shores, slowly emerged from their quarters gathering in circles to merrily sing.
As they heard that old voice, whispering wise from skies deep blue It was then that they remembered, what was central, vital and true
They set out together, to build a New World most better. And what was once seven, Rose Up to become One
The true heroes among them wearing cap, glove and gown, where unseen were they before now rightfully receive the crown
One song to sing One bell to ring One hope to bring in the people’s New Spring
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The Eagle Within
By John Hamalian
Since many of us cannot be back home for Thanksgiving, perhaps this poem can remind us that America is with us no matter where we are.
America is not just a place, it is an idea. indeed, an Ideal. and no matter how far we are from the lady’s great torch, the ray of freedom and the gleam of liberty never really fade away, rather the light only glows brighter with the distance of their beam Wherever we are in the world, America is always there. Always inside of us. Tis that Eagle that dwells in our hearts, and soars in our souls. That Eagle that lies inward. The Eagle that flies within.
LIVING IN SINGAPORE 17
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Girls in Aviation By Holly Anthony, USAGSO Singapore Troop 82
On Saturday, September 25, I received the opportunity through Girl Scouts to go to WingsOverAsia, at Seletar Airport, for a “Girls in Aviation” event. The event was part of a worldwide initiative of Women in Aviation International. We did several fun activities, including having the honor of listening to a guest speaker, Ms. Poh Li San. She currently serves as a member of parliament here in Singapore, works for the Changi Airport Group, and was in charge of leading the project of building the fourth terminal at Changi Airport, Singapore. She gave an inspiring speech about taking every opportunity you’re given, and sharing her journey from being the second female helicopter pilot in the Singapore Air Force, to joining the parliament, helped me and the other girls participating feel more inspired to follow our own dreams. In addition to the speech, we did several activities as part of a scavenger hunt. The first station taught us how to make lava lamps, in order to display how important it is to correctly follow procedures, something pilots all across the world have to do. We also learned how to study aviation maps, more about the codes used to help people who are working in air traffic control, how clouds are formed, and we even got the chance to learn how to fly an airplane. We learned a lot about what we can do, not only working in the Air Force, but across the world. This event was very fun for me to attend, and I hope that it inspired the other girls there to follow their own dreams. You can find out more about Women in Aviation International, and Girls in Aviation,
here.
You can also learn more about Girl
Scouts, the world’s largest leadership training program for girls, here.
Photos courtesy of Holly Anthony LIVING IN SINGAPORE 19
Fun With Scouting! by Sophia Ragland, BSA Troop 1010G
If you’re looking for a fun way to build character, develop leadership qualities, learn useful life skills, and have fun, you should join Scouting! It is an organization that offers a broad range of opportunities. As part of a youth-led organization, Scouts have opportunities to take on both leadership and teaching roles that will benefit them in their future endeavors. Scouts determine which subjects they want to explore through merit badges and work at their own pace to advance in rank, while adult leaders provide supervision and guidance. Scouting is typically known for its outdoor adventures. Scouts learn wilderness and survival skills through camping, hiking, biking, and water sports. Of course, the Covid pandemic has severely curtailed many of these activities for the past two years by limiting our ability to meet in person. Nevertheless, the Scout motto is “Be Prepared.” In this spirit, our Troop has endeavored to find other ways to keep our Scouts active and engaged. This past summer, our Troop combined efforts with the boys in Scouts BSA Troops 7B and 10B to hold a Merit Badge Marathon. Together, the group offered 21 merit badge courses for the Scouts to work on throughout June and July. In August, our efforts culminated in our first ever joint Court of Honor. This was an awards ceremony entirely organized and presented (on Zoom of course) by Scouts to recognize all the Scouts for their achievements over the summer. Personally, I worked on the Photography, Law, Public Health, Family Life, Citizenship in the Community, and Sailing merit badges through courses organized and led by adult volunteers. I had the chance to sail with other Scouts and get certified at the SAF Yacht Club. For our Public Health merit badge, Scouts visited the NEWater Visitor Centre where we learned all about Singapore’s efforts to purify, conserve, and recycle water. In September, I joined a group of Scouts at Gallop Stables for a fun morning of grooming, feeding, and riding horses. It was a great excuse to be active and hang out with other Scouts while working towards the Horsemanship merit badge. Through these Scouting activities, I discovered a lot of interesting and new things, developed some useful new skills, and made new friends with Scouts in the other Scouts BSA Troops. All in all, through Scouting, I had a fun and active summer. Now that Fall is here, we move back into our regular schedule of weekly meetings and will start planning activities to take us through the next academic year. For now, Covid restrictions mean our meetings and camp-outs are mostly virtual, but we are optimistic that soon we will get back to more in-person, hands-on activities with larger groups like hiking, camping, biking, and more. Scouts BSA has rolling registration throughout the year. If you are a girl between the ages of 11 and 18 and are interested in learning more about Scouts, get in touch with us at sgtroop1010@gmail.com. We look forward to meeting you! Photo courtesy of Sophia Ragland
20 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
HOW INTERNATIONAL IS YOUR INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL? Our student population comprises more than 60 nationalities with no one dominant culture or background. The balance of academic rigour, personalization, and cultural diversity creates a unique opportunity for a truly international and future-ready learning experience.
BOOK A PERSONAL TOUR
www.xwa.edu.sg (65) 6871 8835 admissions@xwa.edu.sg CPE registration number: 200803726H, 19 March 2021 to 18 March 2025
Formerly known as GEMS World Academy (Singapore) LIVING IN SINGAPORE 21
Halloween in Singapore By Susan Williams
Halloween is a perennial favorite of kids in America, and who can blame them? It’s the one day you’re allowed to take candy from strangers, all while dressed up as your favorite person, animal, or character (or sometimes even object – I still remember the year my brother dressed up as a school bus!). Halloween has gained popularity in Singapore, particularly in the Woodlands neighborhood near Singapore American School, with its relatively high concentration of American families.
effects and smoke machines. A friend who lives in the area gave out 5,000 pieces of candy one year, giving only one piece per person! Other neighborhoods also typically host trick-or-treating on a smaller scale in non-Covid times, including Mimosa Park, Dunearn Estates, and many larger condo developments.
Before Covid, Halloween night was a sight to behold on the small streets running through the Woodlands. The roads would be shut down to traffic as hordes of people, children and adults alike, would weave through, going house to house for candy. The large houses of the neighborhood would be intricately decorated, with some residents going all out with sound
Costumes
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While we may not be able to go trick-or-treating this year, there is still plenty of fun to be had. Read on for your guide to Halloween in Singapore.
If your child has decided early enough what they want to be for Halloween, you can always order online from sites like Amazon or Lazada. But what if they have left it to the week before Halloween? Spotlight already has a large range of costumes and decorations on display. If you’re more of a DIYer and just need a few accents, you
Those yearning for a fright can find it at can try Daiso and their selection of decorations and accessories. If you’re after something more SuperSpook, a Halloween-themed session at intricate, check out Ministry of Costumes or SuperPark Singapore. It boasts three scare zones Party With Us. For something custom-made, try for ages 13 and up. Awesome Costumes. Ghost hunters will find plenty of places around Singapore reported to be haunted by pontianaks, What To Do the spirits of deceased women in Southeast Asian As always, events are subject to change due folklore. Some of these areas include Sungei to shifting covid-related restrictions. There are Api Api and Pasir Ris Park; the Nee Soon Rubber lots of ways to celebrate Halloween without the Estate near Sembawang; Old Tampines Road; trick-or-treating. Kubur Kassim, an old Malay cemetery; and Bukit Join AAS for a day (or just the night) of fun Brown Cemetery. at Universal Studios Singapore! We have an For a more child-friendly experience, head to exclusive package that includes admission to the S.E.A. Aquarium for an event featuring the cast of park, dinner, the chance to enter our costume Pinkfong’s Baby Shark. Or get faces painted and contest, a Trail of Treats, and the Halloween Horror enjoy other crafts at Craneum: A Crane Halloween. Nights Exhibition. Whatever you do on Halloween, you can rest If murder mysteries are more your thing, check assured that this American tradition has been out the escape room-esque Murder at Old Changi firmly planted in Singapore. And once we get Hospital. The augmented reality experience puts past Covid, the celebrations will be bigger and you in the role of a paranormal investigator trying better than ever. to solve a murder.
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24 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
Singaporean Lingo - Slang & Singlish By Julian Abraham Chua
Since its independence dates back only to 1965, you could argue that Singapore has a relatively young history as a nation. You wouldn’t expect such a young country to have deeply-rooted traditions, but if you listen to the conversations between locals carefully, you could uncover a rich cultural fabric unique to Singapore.
Origins of Singlish As a multicultural and multi-linguistic society, conversations between different local communities have intertwined and evolved over the years. In such a cosmopolitan city, different ethnic groups live together in harmony - namely Chinese, Malay, Indians and Eurasians, among other minorities. Because of this unique ethic mix, certain words and phrases used to express reactions or emotions
have become more commonplace. Overtime, the popular choices of words become a staple in the vocabulary of the everyday 'Singaporean conversations' by default.
Why learn Singlish? As an expat living in Singapore, learning such slangs and Singlish can not only be fun, but also rewarding in a number of ways: • Blend in better with the locals • Immerse in Singaporean culture • Craft jokes and humor to create more engaging conversations with locals • Useful knowledge to decipher conversations among locals
Used as an expressive word to indicate an unfortunate incident that occurred to an individual.
Suay
Examples A: "OMG, bird poop landed on my head!" B: "Haha, you are so suay." A: "I missed the last train home yesterday." B: "So suay, next time you should go home earlier."
Atas
A Malay word that means something looks premium or someone is perceived to behave in a high-class manner. Examples A: "That guy is wearing a Rolex watch and carrying a Gucci bag." B: "Why dress so atas for what? We are in a hawker center.” A: "Wow this place is so glitzy and glamorous!" B: "Yes thank me for bringing you to such an atas place." LIVING IN SINGAPORE 25
An expressive word to indicate someone who does something stupid or crazy. Examples
Siao
A: "I drank ten cans of Red Bull last night to study for my exams." B: "You siao? It's not healthy for your body." A: "Do you think it's a good idea to use vulgarities in my essay?" B: "Don't be siao! The examiner will fail you."
This word is used to describe someone who is afraid of losing out, even when there is no reason to be afraid.
Kiasu
Examples A: "I bought ten cartons of canned drinks for the party later." B: "We only have 20 people attending the party. You bought too many drinks. Why are you so kiasu?" A: "I am saving these extra toilet paper rolls for a future nationwide Covid lockdown." B: "That is such a distant possibility. You are being very kiasu!"
This Hokkien (a Chinese dialect) word is directly associated with the expression of feeling embarrassed or apologetic about something. Examples
Pai Seh
A: "Don't worry about the wet socks, you can use mine." B: "Alright thank you, I feel so pai seh to trouble you." A: "Don't feel pai seh to use my living room for your work." B: "That's really nice of you. Thank you."
26 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
A term used to describe the action of reserving a space in person, most commonly a seat at a hawker center.
Chope
Examples A: "This hawker center looks so crowded." B: "Don't worry. I already chope two seats for us." A: "This concert venue looks so packed." B: "It's fine. I already chope a spot for us to stand near the stage."
A Hokkien word that depicts a dull, weary or frustrating situation.
Sian
Examples A: "It has been raining non-stop for the past few days." B: "Yes this weather makes me sian." A: "We have just three more days to complete this project." B: "Yet we are not even halfway done, very sian."
A Malay word which means eat in Singlish.
Makan
Examples A: “I’m hungry.” B: “Do you want to go and makan first?” A: “Do you know any good eateries around here?” B: “Yes, I know a few makan places that have good food.”
Derived from Cantonese, this is the Singlish equivalent of takeaway.
Tapao
Examples A: “Did you remember to take your lunch today?” B: “No need, I’ll just tapao from the hawker.” A: “I haven’t been fully vaccinated, we can’t dine in.” B: “That’s ok, we will tapao instead.”
LIVING IN SINGAPORE 27
This Malay word directly translates to mean hit or affected. This negative connotation is used to describe that something bad has happened.
Kena
Examples A: “Why does he look so down?” B: “Because he just kena scolded by the teacher.” A: “Can I park here?” B: “Better not. I saw someone kena summoned by the traffic police the other day.”
This Malay slang word provides an expressive description of someone’s feelings of pleasure or excitement.
Shiok
Examples A: “How is the dessert I made at home?” B: “Very shiok to eat. You should make it more often.” A: “This designer sofa has great aesthetics.” B: “Yes, not to mention it feels so shiok to sit on it and relax.”
Can Meh?
I don’t quite believe you.
Can What Can hor? Can lor 28 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
I’m sure. Why don’t you believe me?
Are you certain?
Yes. I think so.
Can leh Can Ah? Can Lah
Yes. Of course.
Can you or can’t you?
Yes, it can be done.
Jialat
This Hokkien word directly translates to mean ‘draining energy’. But putting it into the context of a casual conversation, it means tragic, serious or disastrous. Examples A: “We have been waiting for over an hour for our food.” B: “This restaurant order system is very jialat.” A: “She crashed into another cyclist while on the bicycle.” B: “Her wound looks very jialat, we should take her to the hospital.”
A Hokkien word which roughly means “My father,” it is used to express surprise or disappointment at something or someone.
Wah Lau
Examples A: “He’s still in the toilet.” B: “Wah lau, he has been inside for over 15 minutes.” A: “He is down with food poisoning.” B: “Wah lau, this is no joke.”
This is derived from a Chinese word translating to “oh no.” It is used as an expression of surprise and/or annoyance.
Aiyoh
Examples A: “I’ve been waiting for the bus forever.” B: “Aiyoh, why is it taking so long?!” A: “I’m so sorry I bumped into you!” B: “Aiyoh, watch where you’re going!”
Julian Abraham Chua is a serial entrepreneur and freelance writer who is passionate about crafting content around lifestyle, business, technology, fitness & wellness, self-improvement and sports, among other subject matters. He combines his business experience and love for writing to provide readers with insights and balanced perspectives across a range of topics.
LIVING IN SINGAPORE 29
Let’s Go! Singapore and Cycling Is A Good Match
Maps and Apps
By Meg Farrell Sine
Check out the link Google Maps of Singapore Bike Locations as a desktop tool. This site shows Biking in Singapore has never been more color-coded routes that can be displayed one at a popular. The Covid-19 Circuit Breaker last year time or overlayed together to define PCNs, other elevated bike riding as an excellent form of socially cycling paths, common road links, park locations, distanced exercise. Indeed, enlisting pedal power mountain bike tracks and bike shops. is a great way to burn those stay-at-home calories The following link shows a simpler map of just and tone those leg muscles! Sharing a ride with a friend or family member is even better, and a cold PCN loops that are marked and easy to follow, but which are shared with pedestrians: National drink afterwards never tasted so refreshing. Parks map of PCNs. I recommend you map out With this article, I want to focus on cycling as a your route ahead of time and use your smart way to get outside, get back to nature, and have phone GPS to guide your journey. It’s also fun some fun. I maintain that peddling through hot, to download a free app, such as Map My Ride humid air creates 360° air conditioning, making or Strava (social media for cycling), to track your cycling much less tiring in the tropical heat than route and record how far you go. walking or jogging.
How to Get Started So… have bike will travel! However, for those in the market to buy, the demand for new bikes in 2020 surged just as many factories in China that build the bikes had coronavirus shutdowns. The bicycle supply chain is still not back to normal 18 months later. If you find yourself one of the unlucky individuals who can’t find stock of the bike you want to buy right now, Singapore has a bunch of places to rent a bike. Try visiting one of the GoCycling outlets (map). They rent a variety of bike styles and sizes by the hour and are always conveniently located next to some Park Connector Networks (PCNs) and places to explore nature. There are also bike rentals available on Pulau Ubin and Sentosa’s Siloso Beach. Be sure to check the brakes and the tires before taking off on your rental bikes.
30 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
How to Buy a Bike My recent survey of a variety of bike shops around town indicated that managers expect backorders of bikes to start improving very soon. But what kind of bike to buy? There are so many choices of fat tires, skinny tires, this or that brand, and in Singapore, maybe a folding bike. My recommendation is easy: get a bike that is comfortable to ride and be sure to take a test ride!
Park Connector Networks
near your home under the brand names Treknology, Giant, and/or Polygon. There are also shops called Bikehaus, Rodalink, Decathlon, Bike Settlement, and My Bike Shop (folding bikes). Taking a look at Facebook resale markets is not a bad idea either for possibly finding quality used bikes. A good fitting helmet and water bottle are essential. Other nice accessories are a gel seat, padded gloves, padded shorts, and a bell for the handlebars. A nifty bike jersey with back pockets is useful and looks good too! If you want to ride on the road, Singapore requires bikes be fitted with front (white) and back (red) lights if riding at night.
Also, buy the best components (brakes, gears, tires, frame composition) that you can afford. The other consideration is if you want to ride on the PCNs versus venturing out into the road (to do higher speeds and longer rides than allowed on shared pathways). This could mean the difference between buying a folding bike with small tires or How to Meet Other Cycling a traditional road bike. Folding bikes have a great advantage in Singapore in that they can be carried quite easily on the bus, train, or taxi. Unlike most other bikefriendly cities, Singapore does not allow regular sized bikes on public transport. To ride a PCN loop in Punggol when you live near Bukit Timah, you either have to have a car with a bike rack or hire a ride in a Grab 6 taxi. There is also some new competition in bike transport companies, so check around.
Enthusiasts
Look on social media for Singapore cycling groups or ask around about Whatsapp groups who do the kind of riding you prefer. Google the Women’s Cycling Project (WCP) for information about joining their “No Drop” rides once or twice per month for newcomers to Singapore and/ or cycling. ANZA association has a Whatsapp group called “Social Fun Road Cycling” for easy weekend road bike rides around Sentosa Island. For more information or questions about all things bikes and biking, contact me at Bike Accessories megfarrellsine@gmail.com. Have fun and stay For buying bikes, or looking for service and safe! accessories, search online for large bike stores LIVING IN SINGAPORE 31
Coming in Fall 2023
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LIVING IN SINGAPORE 33
Heart of the Community The History & Heritage of Singapore Hawker Centers By Asif R. Chowdhury
There is no better place than a hawker center to get a true glimpse of Singaporean culture, tradition, and pastime. Singaporeans of all shapes, sizes, colors, creeds, status, and ethnicities descend on these community dining rooms to have their meals as a family or with their friends. One will hear people chatting in Singlish (Singaporean English) as well as their native Chinese, Malay or Tamil – the four key languages used here by three distinctly different ethnic groups that make up ninety-nine percent of all Singaporeans.
fast food. Hawker centers are more a way of life here, where family and friends gather for their daily meals, with its history and tradition going back over two hundred years. Of course, compared to the old tradition of hawking on the streets of Singapore, today’s hawker centers are modern and orderly settings, part of a culture that has been inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Then, of course, there are the plethora of local foods and delicacies, as well as western style foods, all available at an extremely reasonable price for a country that has often been listed as one of the most expensive places in the world to live. National Geographic rightfully stated that a hawker center is like having “all of Singapore under one roof.” If visitors confuse the hawker centers with Western-style food courts, they will be mistaken. Unlike the food courts, Singaporeans don’t come to the hawker centers simply to get
The long and somewhat tumultuous history of hawkers in Singapore goes back to the early 1800s, when Lieutenant Governor, Sir Thomas Raffles, established the island as a major port in 1819. His primary objective was to challenge the Dutch dominance in the region. Within decades, Singapore had become a thriving port-city, and along with that came the need for a massive work force attracting people from China, India, Malaysia, Indonesia and other neighboring countries. Most of these migrants were laborers,
34 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
Origin of Hawkers
merchants, clerks, cooks, and everyday workers. Some of the new arrivals found street hawking to be a relatively easy way to earn a living requiring very little skill and minimal capital. The foods they peddled were representative of their authentic home cooked meals, hailing from their respective countries and regions. For the vast majority of migrant workers, these street foods not only provided access to cheap daily meals, but also gave them a taste of their original homeland. They simply devoured these street foods, creating a significant demand, and the number of street hawkers only grew. By the mid-1800s, the streets of Singapore were lined with the colors and aromas from hundreds of these street hawkers.
Street hawkers in Chinatown from around 1860 (source: National Archives of Singapore)
While the migrant workers loved the hawker foods, the local British authorities developed a fundamental disdain towards the street hawkers. They thought of them as nothing more than a public nuisance and a hazard to public health, hygiene, and safety. However, the authorities tolerated them as the British were wise enough to realize that hawkers were a necessary evil, providing very cheap food to the local laborers and workers. By the early twentieth century, the number of street hawkers had grown to a point where they were indeed choking the city’s traffic and creating unsanitary conditions by disposing their waste on the streets. The issue made it onto the radar of the local colonial government, and
this time they were determined to do something about it. Over the next few decades, the British tried to take several steps to control the hawkers, working alongside with local authorities. In fact, one of those steps is what gave birth to the current concept of hawker centers.
Regulating Street Hawkers First, the authorities passed a law in 1903 requiring all street hawkers to officially register. To handle the matter urgently, the colonial government also transferred the prime responsibility of addressing the issue from Governor Sir John Anderson’s office in London to the local Municipal Commission Committee in 1906. A separate Singapore Sanitation Commission was formed, which was led by the Chief Health Officer of Calcutta (British India) Sir William John Ritche Simpson. Sir Simpson published his findings to the Municipal Commission Committee in 1907. Among other key recommendations to improve Singapore’s public sanitation conditions, the study recommended the creation of central back alleys for hawkers to reduce congestion on the main thoroughfares. Interestingly, the Deputy President of the Municipal Commission, a gentleman named John Polglase, suggested that instead of just ushering the hawkers into the back alley, perhaps some sort of centralized “shelters” for the hawkers could be constructed in order to house them in one place. It was a simple idea, providing the street hawkers “shelter” from the occasional rain and the sweltering Singapore sun during daytime. Additionally, water could be piped into these shelters and made available to the hawkers for their cooking and cleaning – this would provide a significant benefit as the hawkers either had LIVING IN SINGAPORE 35
strong protest from the thousands of hawkers and their many supporters - they were the bulk of Singapore’s work force who depended on these hawkers for their daily meals. With the massive support for street hawkers, the authorities had to abandon their plan to stop street hawking. Had they not paid heed to the voice of the masses and indeed stopped street hawking, it would likely have starved most of the working population Though some effort was taken to license the then, and we most likely would not have the hawkers during the mid-1920s, the issue was hawker centers in Singapore today. basically shelved as the world entered the dark chapter of the First World War (1914–1918). Coming Around to Hawker Shelters After the war, the local colonial authority again Over the course of the next decade, six hawker wanted to get the hawkers to the back alley, and this time, they decided to go with the Polglase’s shelters were built in People’s Park; Carnie Street; Queen Street; Balestier Road; and Lim Tua Tow hawker shelter idea. Road. All still exist today, obviously redeveloped. Slowly, the hawker shelter idea started to work. Realizing the advantage of a central location with access to clean water, some hawkers started to move into these shelters. However, these shelters failed to address the main issue of street congestion and unsanitary conditions as the sheer number of hawkers far outstripped what these limited number of A street hawker in 1920 carrying his food and tools shelters could house. It was (source: National Archives of Singapore) estimated that there were more than 10,000 hawkers, The very first shelter was built in 1921 at many still unlicensed at that time, while the six Kreta Ayer, which is in today’s Chinatown. Not shelters could only accommodate 383 hawkers. surprisingly, most hawkers didn’t want to pay Building the required number of shelters would the rent and remained peddling their food on be prohibitively expensive. So once again, the the street. Of course, one hawker center was authorities found themselves looking for other not enough to address the broader issue of solutions to solve the issue of Singapore’s street street hawking. By this time, the authorities hawkers. In the early 1930s, another committee just about had enough of these unruly and was formed to investigate the issue further, uncontrollable hawkers. but with the dark shadow of another world war looming, not much was accomplished. In 1924, the local health officer made a radical decision to completely eradicate the street During most of the Second World War, the hawkers and recommended to making street Japanese forces occupied Singapore (1942–1945). hawking illegal. This created an uproar and faced They allowed the street hawkers go about their to carry loads of water or use whatever other source of water they could find. In most cases, those sources were likely unsanitary. In exchange for an allotment of space inside the shelters, the hawkers would pay a nominal rental fee. Unfortunately, at that time the shelters were not built due to cost constraints. But this was the birth of the idea of today’s hawker centers.
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necessary hawker centers and to move all of the hawkers off the street. During the early years, many street hawkers didn’t care for being licensed and refused to move into the hawker centers. There are many stories from the seventies where scuffles broke out between the street hawkers and the health inspectors, resulting in injuries. But slowly, the hawkers started to move into these centers as they realized the many benefits they provided. Aside from providing shelter from the elements and access to water, having a loyal customer base from the local HDB was a The real effort that ultimately resulted in moving welcome change. all the street hawkers into the hawker centers we experience and enjoy today started in the early 1970s. In 1972, the relatively new Ministry of Environment came up with an ambitious plan to settle over twenty-five thousand street hawkers in permanent shelters to be built around the island. During the same period, Singapore also started its grand vision of providing low-cost housing for Children enjoying street hawker food at Trengannu Street in 1971 every Singaporean (source: National Archives of Singapore) who needed it, through Over the years, these centers have become the the efforts of the Housing Development Board (HDB). The vision of HDB housing was to build dining rooms for the local community. During basic-style, high-rise, low-cost apartments the 15-year period, from 1971 to 1986, a total of all around the island and to ensure that the 108 hawker centers were built. With the increase residents had easy access to most of their daily in Singapore’s population, the government needs, including shops, public transportation, has built an additional seven hawker centers recreational facilities, and food. So, the Ministry since 2011, and plans to build more during the of Environment teamed up with HDB, as well coming decade. as Housing and Urban Development Company Hundreds of years of street hawking has given (HUDC), to find suitable locations for hawker rise to some new food innovations, as well as shelters. The shelters would be built around the some delicious fusions, which have now become HDB flats, at various shopping areas and strategic part of the mainstream local cuisines. Apparently, locations all around the island. They changed the the famous Fish Head Curry was invented here name from “shelters” to “hawker centers.” in Singapore by an Indian hawker. Originally from It wasn’t an easy task to accomplish. It took Kerala, he noticed that the local Chinese people the government about 15 years to build all the liked fish heads. So, to attract Chinese customers, business. In fact, the Japanese authorities reduced the rent to encourage more street hawkers to move into the shelters. But the number of hawkers dropped during the war due to food shortages. The post-war period saw a significant resurgence in the number of street hawkers along with the population boom. A few other hawker shelters were built in the 1950s, but to a large extent, the hawkers remained unregulated, working along the streets of Singapore providing meals for the masses.
LIVING IN SINGAPORE 37
he started to cook fish head using Indian spices and curry. We also have the famous Hokkien Mee (Prawn Noodles), developed by a couple of brothers, cooking on brick stove by the side of the road. There are other more recent and popular fusion foods, such as the Satay Burger, Chili Crab Pasta, Orange Kaya Cream Brulée, and Liu Sha Bao Doughnut (lava salted egg custard inside a sugar glazed doughnut).
hawker Chan Hon Meng, for his famous chicken rice dish. Renowned culinary experts, chefs and critics visits hawker centers regularly, including the likes of the late Anthony Bourdain, who did an episode of his television show on Singapore’s hawker food.
In a 2018 poll conducted by National Heritage Board, “food heritage” was highlighted as the key element of Singapore’s cultural heritage. Many of the three thousand participants in that poll highlighted the importance of hawker center and hawker culture for the country. The government Present day Newton Food Center, opened in 1971, in what was first a garden decided to undertake an setting (Photo credit: Asif R. Chowdhury) effort to nominate hawker Hawker centers remain a humble hallmark of centers for UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. It Singapore’s food culture, offering daily meals for was submitted by the Singapore government the masses with all kinds of clean, good, local in March of 2019, was inscribed on the list on food and delicacies for very reasonable prices. They are truly the heart and soul of Singapore life. December 16, 2020. Despite the fact that only one hundred years ago, the British considered eliminating hawkers from the streets of Singapore altogether, many British visitors, and tourists from around the globe, visit hawker centers today as part of the local experience. Indeed, the hawker culture of Singapore has come a long way since its beginning over two hundred years ago. Today, one can dine on MICHELIN starred hawker foods – in fact the world’s first street food to receive a MICHELIN Star was awarded to Singapore’s
Don’t forget! It is now compulsory to clear your tray at hawker centers. First-time offenders will receive a warning, while secondtime offenders will face a $300 fine.
Asif is part of the executive management team of a global semiconductor company and has written for various magazines and trade journals. Asif spent four years as an expatriate in Tokyo, Japan, and three years in Seoul, South Korea, which led him to travel extensively in those countries and across the region. He currently lives in Singapore with his wife and son, while his daughter is working in his home state of Texas.
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LIVING IN SINGAPORE 39
Festivals and Holidays
throughout the year
By Glenn van Zutphen
Singapore is a country rich with traditions, and the major public holidays reflect its richly diverse population and include Chinese New Year, Buddhist Vesak Day, Muslim Eid-ul-Fitr (locally known by its Malay name Hari Raya Puasa), Hindu Diwali (locally known by its Tamil name Deepavali), Christian Christmas, and of course, the country’s National Day celebrated on August 9. During non-COVID times, you could find Singaporeans celebrating and holding festivals almost every month of the year. Since the pandemic, many celebrations have needed to be scaled down; we hope to see them all return soon.
JAN
Thaipusam Thaipusam is one of Singapore’s largest Hindu religious festivals and is an annual event honoring Lord Murugan. On this day, many local Hindus give thanks or make amends for any wrongdoing committed over the past year. In Singapore, many of the devotees carry kavadis in procession from Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple on Serangoon Road to Sri Thandayuthapani Temple on Tank Road. Kavadis are semi-circular metal frames commonly decorated with fruit, flowers and peacock feathers. (The peacock is the vehicle of Lord Murugan). They are supported by steel spikes and hooks that either rest against or are pierced through the devotees’ skin and, for many, their tongues. Some, especially women and children, carry simple stainless-steel containers filled with milk on their heads. For one month prior to this very spiritual event, devotees prepare themselves by praying and fasting, eating only one vegetarian meal per day. 40 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
JAN/FEB Chinese New Year
Depending on the lunar calendar, Chinese New Year falls sometime between January 21 and February 19. Chinese New Year is observed for 15 days, with the last day known as Yuan Xiao Jie or Chap Gor Mei – in essence, a Chinese Valentine’s Day.
upon the household. Children and unmarried people receive hong bao from married and older people as a gesture of good luck.
Red scrolls and banners bearing the greeting Gong Xi Fa Cai, meaning “wishing you great prosperity,” decorate homes and businesses. Many households bear a sign with the Chinese character fu, which means “luck.” It may be hung upside down in the belief that good luck will come
embody particular characteristics of the relevant zodiac animal, which influences their life according to the year in which they’re born.
Mandarin oranges, symbolizing completeness and good fortune, are exchanged between hosts and guests. Both the money and mandarins are For many days prior to Chinese New Year’s always presented in even numbers for good luck. Day, families are busy cleaning and decorating (Although generally never in fours as the Chinese their homes and shopping for special foods such associate this number with bad luck and death. as waxed ducks, Chinese sausages, fresh fish, barbecued pork (bak kwa), mandarin oranges and traditional cakes and biscuits. CHINESE ZODIAC INFORMATION On Chinese New Year’s Eve, the main event Visit the following websites to find out more is the family reunion dinner, after which adults about the Chinese zodiac, animal signs and present children with red packets, or hong bao, ruling elements. containing money. It’s also considered good luck for the children to stay up late to bring in the astrology.com New Year with their parents. Wear happy colors, chineseastrologyonline.com especially auspicious shades of red or gold, and never wear funereal colors such as black, grey, or The Chinese lunar calendar encompasses white. Also, try not to speak ill, swear, share ghost a 60-year cycle, with each year stories or talk about death and misfortune as this represented by one of 12 animals, similar could be considered inauspicious. to the Western zodiac. It is believed people
LIVING IN SINGAPORE 41
JAN/FEB
Mar/Apr Good Friday and Easter Sunday
Qing Ming (All Souls’ Day)
Towards the end of the Chinese New Year celebrations, the colorful and popular Chingay procession of floats, marching bands and cultural dances is held. Chingay means “the art of masquerading.” It is quite a spectacular, multicultural celebration and one that shouldn’t be missed.
Christians commemorate the death of Jesus Christ on Good Friday by attending special church services. This public holiday marks the beginning of the three-day Easter weekend. The date of this major holiday changes each year, falling anywhere between March 22 and April 25. On Easter Sunday, Christians celebrate the resurrection of Jesus Christ by attending special church services. This is a day of rejoicing, as two days before the faithful remembered Jesus’ death on the cross.
This spring festival occurs on the first day of the third month of the lunar calendar. To commemorate Qing Ming, meaning “clear and bright,” the Chinese visit and tend to ancestors’ graves, urns or ancestral tablets in temples, with some offering food, tea and wine. Candles are often lit, and joss sticks and special paper money are burned to honor the dead.
Chingay Parade and River Hong Bao Festival
The River Hong Bao Festival is a fair that is celebrated along the Singapore River and subscribes to the zodiac, teeming each year with relevant floats, food stalls, games and fireworks.
42 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
Apr
Apr/May
Hari Raya Puasa (Eid ul-Fitr) This important Muslim religious observance (Eid ul-Fitr in Arabic) commemorates the end of Ramadan, the Islamic month of fasting, abstinence and almsgiving. Ramadan begins when the moon appears on the first day of the ninth month of the Islamic calendar. At the time of this printing, this holiday is occurring in April, but Its exact timing changes from year to year. All able-bodied Muslims are required to fast during daylight hours for one month.
When the new moon appears, Ramadan is officially over, and Hari Raya Puasa is joyously celebrated. The day begins with devotees offering prayers and thanksgiving and donating alms to those in need. Muslims dress in new clothes to visit relatives and friends. Hari Raya Puasa is a time for family members to seek forgiveness and understanding from one another while children pay respect to, and seek blessings from, their elders.
Special prayers are held in mosques, with the Sultan Mosque on North Bridge Road being very popular and particularly decorative during this time with dozens of stalls assembled to sell Malay and Indian food for the breaking of the daily fast. This is also a good opportunity for non-Muslims to sample home-cooked specialties.
During the month leading up to Hari Raya Puasa, the Geylang Serai market area near Paya Lebar MRT and the Malay Village are lively and wonderfully decorated. Special stalls sell a variety of goods including clothes, household items and food, underneath large outdoor tents.
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MAY
June
Vesak Day
Dragon Boat Festival
Occurring on the full moon of the lunar month of Vesakha (April to June), Vesak Day is the most important celebration in the Buddhist calendar as it’s the day devotees honor the birth, enlightenment and nirvana (release from earthly passions and desires) of Lord Buddha. In Singapore, Sakya Muni Buddha Gaya Temple, known as the temple of a thousand lights, on Race Course Road and Phor Kark See Temple on Bright Hill Road, are thronged with both worshippers and visitors.
This Chinese festival is held on the fifth day of the fifth month of the lunar calendar and commemorates a hero of ancient China, the poet and statesman Qu Yuan who drowned himself in protest of injustice and corruption. At the time, fishermen rowed their boats as fast as they could toward Qu Yuan’s body, thrashing their oars and throwing rice in the water to recover his body and scare away the man-eating fish before they could devour him.
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Exciting dragon boat races are held in Singapore during the weekend closest to the celebration day, usually at Marina Bay. Teams of rowers in brightly painted dragon boats row together to the resounding beat of drums. Special delicacies of steamed, glutinous rice dumplings wrapped in leaves are enjoyed during the festival and are exchanged between relatives and friends. For more information visit sdba.org.sg.
July
Aug
Hari Raya Haji (Eid ul-Adha
National Day
This Muslim festival falls on the tenth day of the twelfth month (Zulhijjah) of the Islamic calendar. At the time of this printing, this holiday is occurring in July, but its exact timing changes from year to year. Hari Raya Haji (Eid ulAdha in Arabic), celebrates the haj, or pilgrimage, to Mecca, the birthplace of the Prophet Muhammad. The day holds special significance for Muslims who have completed the haj – men take the title of Haji and can wear white songkoks (caps), and women become Hajjah.
On August 9, Singapore celebrates the anniversary of its independence from Malaysia and its emergence as the Republic of Singapore in 1965. It is a full day of festivities culminating with colorful performances and a spectacular fireworks display at Marina Bay. From exciting air displays to cultural performances by school children, all of Singapore comes together to take part in this important national event.
Aug/SepT
Hungry Ghost Festival Taoist Chinese believe that during the seventh month of the lunar calendar (August to September), the souls of the dead are released from purgatory to roam the earth for 30 days. Chinese wayangs (street operas), various puppet shows, and mini-pop concerts are performed to entertain spectators and the wandering spirits. Community dinners are held, including noisy and colorful auctions of auspicious items. Joss sticks are burned, and prayers, food and paper money are offered to appease the ghosts. The front row seats at all local concerts or getais are usually empty this month as they have been saved for the “spirits” that roam free at this time and might enjoy the concerts as well.
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SepT
Sept/Oct Navarathri Festival
Pilgrimage to Kusu Island
The Chinese believe that on the fifteenth day of the eighth month of the lunar calendar (September or October), the moon is at its largest and brightest for the year. The MidAutumn Festival began more than 2,000 years ago to celebrate the autumn harvest. Years later, when China was ruled by the Mongols, a legend tells how on the night of the Mid-Autumn Festival, secret messages detailing plans of a revolt to overthrow the Mongol dynasty were placed in mooncakes and distributed among the people. Now, you’ll find mooncakes on offer across Singapore.
This nine-night Hindu festival falls in September or October. Devotees honor Dhurga, who protects them from evil; Saraswathi, the goddess of knowledge; and Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth. At Chettiars Temple on Tank Road and Sri Mariamman Temple on South Bridge Road, dance, music and classical recitals are staged each evening throughout the festival.
This month-long festival takes place during the ninth month of the lunar calendar (usually October). A story tells of two shipwreck survivors, a Chinese man and a Malay man, who were helped ashore to Kusu Island by a giant tortoise. The two men lived there together in peace and harmony until their deaths. Kusu Island, four miles (6.5 kilometers) south of Singapore, houses both a Chinese temple and a Malay shrine. Pilgrims take offerings of cooked chickens, pink-shelled eggs, fruit, flowers, joss sticks and candles to the island and pray for prosperity, luck and fertility. A tortoise sanctuary is located on Kusu Island.
Mid-Autumn, Mooncake or Lantern Festival
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Oct
Oct/Nov
Nov
DEC
Deepavali (Diwali)
Thimithi Festival
Christmas
Deepavali or Diwali, as the festival is named by South and North Indians respectively, and also known as the Festival of Lights, is a time of great rejoicing for Hindus. Based on their calendar, the actual day of Deepavali falls on the new moon of the seventh month (October or November). Several different legends tell of the ancient origins of this celebration, symbolizing the victory of light over darkness and good over evil. Most Hindu homes are full of friends and family for the weeks leading up to the festival, with everyone wearing new clothes.
Also known as the Fire Walking Festival, Thimithi can be traced to the epic Indian poem “Mahabharata,” in which the goddess Draupadi was commanded to walk on hot coals to prove her faithfulness to her husband. In Singapore, devotees proceed from Sri Srinivasa Perumal Temple on Serangoon Road to the Sri Mariamman Temple on South Bridge Road, where many walk over a pit of red-hot charcoal and emerge unscathed to declare their faith, as well as to fulfill personal vows.
For Christians, Christmas marks the birth of Jesus Christ. Christmas Eve and Christmas Day fall each year on December 24 and 25 respectively. On either of these two days, Christians go to church, sing Christmas carols, exchange presents and enjoy traditional fare. Colorful lights and Christmas decorations can be seen throughout Singapore, particularly on Orchard Road. There is also a large light display and festival at Gardens by the Bay.
Special prayer sessions are held in brightly-lit temples and Serangoon Road, and Little India is festooned with garlands and lights for several weeks. There is a special Diwali Fair organized every year just off Serangoon Road along Dunlop Street with vendors selling earthen lamps, lights, firecrackers, sweets and lots of festival knick knacks.
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A Brief History of the American Diner’s Everlasting Charm By Theodorus Ng
The pandemic has undeniably and indefinitely put a pause on all travel activities, including plans for American families to return home. The occasional homesickness can indeed be difficult to bear. However, in globalized, multicultural Singapore, you can certainly find familiar and comforting elements of America that will make your hometown feel a bit less distant. Food arguably possesses the strongest ability to remind us of home – not only for appealing to our gustatory senses which then evoke fond emotions and memories, but also because cuisine is so inextricably connected with culture and heritage. The American cuisine is difficult to define – really, it is an amalgamation of many cultures introduced by immigrants and the indigenous. But it is this very diverse history that makes the American cuisine greater than the sum of its parts and reflects a multicultural ideal similar to Singapore’s. This unique magic resides most prominently in American diners. 48 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
The Art Deco exterior, complete with resplendent neon sign trim, draws you in to absolute familiarity. The tiled floors, a long Formica counter lined with high seats on one side and diligent cooks on the other, working the griddle; booths waited on by gregarious staff chatting with diners over the tunes of the jukebox; and the distinct aroma of sputtering bacon mixing with Bunn-O-Matic coffee. This is the quintessential American experience. Grab a cup of joe and enjoy this exposition on the American Diner.
The Evolution of Diners The diner’s inception can be traced back to 1872, when Walter Scott sold food out of a horse-pulled wagon to blue-collar workers in Providence, Rhode Island. This was more like the food trucks we see today, as food was served through windows and patrons stood on the street to eat. His idea gained traction because it was affordable and convenient as it remained open late into the night. Yet, the decrepit state of boxcars, and the disreputable patronage the late hours attracted, led to bans in New York and Atlantic City.
you can most definitely fetch a meal and a drink for under $10 and enjoy the variety of options from all-day breakfast to lunch to dinner to dessert! Diners aren’t as common as they once were, but they are still an American Favorite.
Familiarity
It was not until the 1920s, when diners received a complete refashioning as well as their name (owing to their resemblance to railroad dining cars). Patrick Tierney began industrially manufacturing such eateries with a focus on utility. The form typically resembled a railcar streamlined and narrow enough so the diner could be transported by rail, barge, and truck, from the factory to the place of operation. It was also retrofitted with an efficient workflow of grills, steam tables, coffee urns, blenders, drink dispensers, and display cases. Within the beautified and expanded interior, indoor seating was made possible by the counter from which patrons could see their meals being prepared from stove to countertop. Diners survived through the Great Depression thanks to the inexpensive meal options they offered. And in the postwar boom, they were a lucrative small business opportunity. Diners took off across the nation, beyond their original urban cities to highway strips in the suburbs that served weary travelers who required a pit stop.
The Appeal Accessibility The practical purpose of diner food has stayed relatively constant since its inception – to provide affordable and quickly-served comfort food. Prepandemic, according to the US Bureau of Labor Statistics, about 44% of all food spending was on food away from home, and the average meal outside cost $12.75. At a more traditional diner,
Many say that a diner is like a home away from home. The dishes are home-cooked recipes that could have been passed on for generations, prosaic classics that any American would have grown up eating. Flavors and aromas trigger nostalgic emotions and that homely sense of warmth. They call it comfort food for a reason. Then, the “counter culture” engendered by casual discourse between the patrons and hospitable cooks and servers gives the diner a convivial environment that is always welcoming. This is probably best encapsulated within Norman Rockwell’s cover illustration for The Saturday Evening Post in 1958, titled The Runaway. It shows a young scamp on the lam from home who runs into a couple of strangers in a diner. In any other context it would be threatening, but the intentional setting of a diner is anything but sinister. The cook as a compassionate host and the kind cop who probably treats him to a slice of pie and a ride home in his squad car after, solidifies the familial and communal nature of the LIVING IN SINGAPORE 49
dinner. Such a trait of diners also finds footing in pop culture, notably the movie After Hours, which portrayed the idea that, in diners, one can talk to strangers on a whim without fear of judgment.
Cultural Touchstone
itself. It seems that no US election campaign is complete without a stop at a diner to emphasize the candidate’s everyman or everywoman credentials. More uniquely, the American duality is portrayed in diners. Edward Hopper’s iconic Nighthawks is commonly thought to depict loneliness, but from another perspective, it could represent the enjoyment of a meal in stoic solitude or the propensity for an unexpected conversation. The diner represents the prized individual as part of a larger community.
During the post-war Golden Age, the popularity of diners peaked, and further gained footing internationally as a globalized American icon. Alan Hess, an American architect, frames the diner as a post-war mirage where most countries, sorting through the debris of war, looked to the optimism of American business for hope. It was not long before other countries had their own renditions of diners, or at The diner is a physical embodiment of America’s grand ideals. According to Richard Gutman, avid least certain elements of them, inspired by the diner historian, diners were built by Italian tile- original aesthetic of the space and style of the setters and marble-workers, German sheet food, in hopes of capturing the fun, freedom, and metal workers, and French-Canadian carpenters. nostalgia evoked by that era. Where form follows function, this melting pot of The undeniable cultural significance of the cultures behind constructing something uniquely American diner has made it almost like a time American symbolizes the diaspora of cultures capsule of a captivating era and a glorious age, that coexist, underpinning the American identity. enshrined on the global stage. It is the very fact In egalitarian terms, diners are bastions of democracy. In a 1932 article in World’s Work, it is noted that diners host “actors, milkmen, chauffeurs, debutantes, nymphs du pavé, young men-about-town, teamsters, students, streetcar motormen, policemen, white wings, businessmen – all these and more rub elbows at its counter.” This emblematic destruction of classist social mores for an ideal equality is further reinforced by the very resulting characters of democracy 50 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
that the diner turns a prosaic and transient meal into a lasting memory, regardless of whoever walks in, that has enabled diners to stand the test of time against cookie-cutter, cut-and-dried fast-food chains that directly compete as a close substitute. It is this very magic that makes it universal and accessible by other cultures worldwide.
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Iconic Diners in the US Summit Diner (Summit, NJ) Diners are a staple to the Jersey life. At one point, nearly 95% of diners were manufactured in the state. The Summit Diner was opened in 1929, the first ever railcar style diner in America! Rebuilt in 1938 but still open today, it is most famous for its “Slider” sandwich – a classic pork roll, egg and cheese sandwich. Ernest Hemingway and Jim Cramer were both said to patronize the place.
Photo by Summit Diner
Tom’s Restaurant (New York, NY) This is the very place Suzanne Vega wrote her eponymous hit song Tom’s Diner while “waiting at the counter for the man to pour the coffee.” They are known for hearty lumberjack breakfasts, Greek salads, and classic turkey wraps.
Photo by Christophe Gevrey
Blue Benn Diner (Bennington, VT) The diner’s motto is, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” which speaks to the retention of many elements from the past. They serve signature omelets with a myriad of customizations to satisfy anyone’s palate!
Photo by Kent Kanouse
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American-Inspired Diners in Singapore OverEasy (Fullerton Bay) Of course, the place derived its name from the popular method of preparing eggs in American diners. Immediately, the interior, a modern reinterpretation imbued mainly with Streamline Moderne sensibilities, is as inviting as the presentation of the food that follows. Though the meals aren’t as inexpensive as diner tradition promises, they are definitely worth the buck for a nostalgic dining experience and for the ‘Gram. Signature dishes include the their beer can chicken, and their truffled lobster mac & cheese.
Photo by OverEasy
Broadway American Diner (The Capitol Kempinski) Snuggle up in one of their plush vinyl booths as you indulge in their impressive barbecue beef burger, starring a housemade patty and fresh-baked, chemicalfree buns. You can’t go wrong with a milkshake on the side!
Photo by Broadway American Diner
Joji’s Diner (Upper Serangoon) From the neon signage to the trompel’œil frontage, to the mustard yellowflaming red palette, not to mention, the jukebox and the gumball machine beside it, this place screams American diner all right! And even better, in true diner tradition, it serves up relatively affordable meals, with plenty of choices under S$12.90! Photo by Joji’s Diner
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Bringing America to Singapore by Sharing Traditions By Richard Hartung
Quintessential American traditions such as fireworks for the 4th of July, turkey and trimmings for Thanksgiving, and even cookies for Christmas, have been important for our family here in Singapore. We’ve tried to continue family customs regardless of location. As our children were growing up, we decided to go beyond just making these American traditions part of their upbringing and invited Singaporean or other non-American friends to join us for many of the celebrations and learn more about American customs. Even though the holiday celebrations were initially foreign concepts for our friends, they quickly embraced the American traditions. The easiest in one sense was including friends in the 4th of July festivities at the US Navy base at Sembawang, and then at the Singapore American School. We simply needed to invite friends and have them show up. It worked - sometimes. One friend brought his fiancée and invited her parents as well, scarfed down plenty of the burgers and ribs as well as other American treats, enjoyed the fireworks and stayed longer than we did to
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listen to the music. Another friend was hesitant to bring her young daughter, worried she would be scared by the noise and fireworks. These and other friends who have joined us now look out for our invitation to the oft-changing date to celebrate American independence – July 4th even in Singapore. While Thanksgiving took more effort, it seemed to have an even greater impact. The meal was traditional and much the same every year: turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, gravy, green beans, pumpkin pie and a bit more. The guests were different each year though as we invited various families of our children’s friends. Some years were more Singaporean. Other years, we invited British and Australian friends. Regardless, all became fans of both the food and the opportunity to become part of a family tradition that embraced the Thanksgiving spirit of generosity and caring. Friends stayed long into the evening on Thanksgiving Day, even though the next day was a workday in Singapore, and we had delightful discussions. After our children left for college, we pivoted and started inviting the same friends every year. After nearly a decade, we have stronger connections than ever with this small group, who have showed up time after time. They have become such big fans of Thanksgiving that we start getting inquiries if we haven’t sent our invitations a month or two in advance. Along
with fully embracing American customs, the people who have joined us for Thanksgiving are among our closest friends. While we spent Christmas Day in the US for many years, we could still bring cheer to our friends and neighbors during this season, too. Christmas cookies, from snickerdoodles to decorated cut-out cookies, have been a family tradition since I was a child. We enlisted our own children to decorate the cookies, then took them to neighbors at our condo and delivered some to friends. While Christmas cookies weren’t a tradition for many of them, they were delighted to receive the treats and we could share how giving gifts, however small, is important at this special time. There are other holidays too, of course. We decided that explaining Labor Day in September or Memorial Day in May was too much of a challenge, so we skipped the barbecues. And Halloween as well as some other holidays have become part of the mainstream culture in Singapore. While the impact may be relatively small in one sense, dozens of Singaporeans have now learned more about America through our invitations and some have even made the traditions part of their own lives. We have closer friends, many of whom look forward to the invitations to celebrations or small gifts. And especially at a time when relations between nations can be fraught, connecting on a small, personal level seems like it can make a big difference to help bridge differences, starting from the bottom up.
Richard is the Managing Director of Transcarta and a freelance writer for Today, Challenge, The Asian Banker and other media, as well as corporate clients. He is also the author of Changing Lanes, Changing Lives. Richard is a consultant in retail banking, focusing on payments strategy and efficiency, with more than 20 years of experience in Asia.
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Deepavali Festival of Lights As one of the major cultural festivals in Singapore, Deepavali (also known as “Diwali” or the “Festival of Lights”) is a celebration that marks the triumph of good over evil.
By Melinda Murphy
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For more than 30 years now, Little India has gone all out for the Festival of Lights which means the festival is not only significant to the Hindu community here, but all of Singapore. The spectacular event is organized by the Little India Shopkeepers and Heritage Association (LISHA). They start planning in February, hoping to make each year more special than the last. This year’s main arch is based on the Temple Tower or Gopuram. Traditionally in any place in India, the Temple Tower will be the tallest building and it will be set with metal kalasam (a pot-like design). This is to attract lightning so as to protect the Community. Additionally, there are always certain grains and seeds kept in the kalasam so as to renew life giving food in case of floods and droughts. With this year offering so many
challenges such as Covid and flooding in India and across the globe, this made perfect sense for the theme. Cellappan Sankaranathan, the owner of the ever-popular restaurant The Banana Leaf Apolo, is this year’s chairman of LISHA. “In times of a pandemic, we need such festivals and events to uplift the spirits of the community at large, and Deepavali being the Festival of Light is such an occasion to bring joy and hope to the people, irregardless of the race or religion.“ And he’s right: the lights really do lift the spirits. Two roads in Little India are decorated: 42 sets of lights adorn Serangoon Road and another 12 sets grace Race Course Road for a total of 54 sets. All told, there are about a million LED bulbs, used in seven color combinations. The result is a true feast for the senses.
Of course, things are a little different during times of Covid. In years past, there was a massive bazaar, a true shopper’s paradise filled with everything you can imagine. The bazaar isn’t allowed during the pandemic, but the resident shops are still open. Restaurants can only sit two at a time and crowds to see the lights are discouraged. Despite the reduced capacity, you should still make an effort to go. A stroll through Little India this time of year can do wonders for the soul. Interesting tidbit? Singapore’s Little India is the only light up of its kind in the world. Rajakumar Chandra is the Senior Advisor to Lisha and former chairman for 15 years. He’s very proud that LISHA strives to bring the magic of India to the people in Asia. “One nine-year-old boy from Singapore went to India with his family. He turned around
to his dad and said, ‘Dad, this place is just like Little India in Singapore!’ I just love that!” In 2021, Deepavali falls on November 4, but it is celebrated for almost two months. This year’s light up was on September 25 and the lights will stay up until November 18. The light up ceremony was officiated by several Ministers, including Alvin Tan. “Our LISHA have worked hard to put this together and our Singapore Tourism Board and MOCA - Moulmein Cairnhill are close partners,” said Tan. “Come enjoy the lights, but please do so safely and in observance of our safety measures.” The magical lights do indeed bring lots of gawkers. Pre-covid, there an estimated four million visitors to see the lights; 1.6 million of them were tourists.
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The Expat Shift Adding up to more than the sum of your parts By Anju Cawthra
Fourteen years ago, I arrived in Singapore from London for a six-month stint with my fiancé. (Ha!) As a wide-eyed graphic designer at the start of my career, I was happy to take a short break and start a Big New Adventure. Little did I know, it wouldn’t all be thrills. I was used to working in small, boutique design agencies, contributing equally within a team, proposing ideas, being client facing and very sociable. I wasn’t prepared for the design landscape I found in Singapore back then; formal, limiting, and hierarchical. I didn’t know how long I was going to stay or what I was going to do, until I stumbled on something interesting: a small write-up in Expat Living magazine covering a fundraising event for a charity in Jaipur. Growing up, I’ve always had an affinity with Jaipur and – having just gotten married there – it struck a chord. I reached out to find out more and ended up offering my design skills (and boundless time and energy) for a plight I believed in. Along the way, I learned about event 58 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
planning, budgeting, resource allocation, and, ahem, the art of diplomacy! Most unexpectedly, I soon built a solid network of real friends - some of my closest friends today. By word of mouth, I gained clients for freelance design projects and started on the path of running my own business creating branding, corporate stationery (remember that?!), brochures, books, and websites. Slow, steady, and flexible, it suited my expat (read “itinerant”) lifestyle very well. I soon built up a strong portfolio and enjoyed solving my clients’ problems with creative solutions. That is, until I had children. With my first daughter, born ten years ago, I fell into the trap of trying to do it all. I survived for four years managing the house, the baby, and the business, with no helper and a traveling husband – and it nearly broke me. Thank goodness I had another baby – granted, not an obvious solution, but one that brought our wonderful helper into our lives. Hallelujah – I had support!
willing to learn. Nici took a chance on me (or maybe she knew what she was doing?!) and the next chapter began. I started with basic marketing and quickly sidestepped when the administrative assistant left. Again, I felt out of my depth: I’d never “assisted” anyone or “done admin” or accounts, but I said YES, asking myself at every turn, “What’s the worst that could happen?” The more I did, the more I found I could do, and the more I enjoyed it Once again, a decade after my first foray, I hit and wanted to contribute. Before I knew it, I was up my design industry contacts in Singapore. spinning all kinds of plates, including managing While I had more experience and agency, I also clients, creating content, and planning strategy. had children to look after, and unfortunately, I’d come a long way, baby! flexibility is not on offer in this world. Rather than Last year, as Covid loomed, Nici decided to go backwards (I would be learning new design tricks from Gen X, Y and Z), I decided to put a relocate back home to Australia and asked me bookmark in that particular chapter and look for to take the reins. To my surprise, I realized all those little roads over the years had led me here. new opportunities. I was using a suite of creative skills; copywriting, A by-product of not having a plan is learning photography, strategy, problem solving. I was to go with the flow – and being open. All my enjoying serving the expat community that I’ve experiences have led me to believe that the been a part of for so long; bringing people together Universe provides what you need when you need and continuing to provide a positive space for it. This is exactly what happened next. like-minded, marvelous women in Singapore. A friend who knew my position saw an ad and This community is so special: experienced and pinged it over: “Online community group seeks supportive, yes, but also compassionate and motivated self-starter for flexible opportunity in erudite. Every day there's a new lesson to learn, relationship building and marketing.” It was low- and a new opportunity to bring people together. key and vague, but something about it spoke Long Live the Wisetribe! to me. Some moments just stick with you: I remember exactly where I was and the feeling in Join SSEW. my gut – this could be the start of something. I took three years out of my working life to focus on my family. I needed to pause and take stock. During this time, motherhood was joyous and fulfilling and isolating and demoralizing. I was missing a piece of my life. My career path had been stunted and I felt undervalued and dependent. I wanted to do more, give more and BE more but I had no idea what.
Seasoned Singapore Expat Women had been Join SSEW - Business Women. active for two years when founder Nici Schueler Follow us on Instagram. reached out with that ad. I felt inexperienced, but knew I was a “people person,” an excellent Find out more. communicator with creative ideas, and was
Anju is the Director of Seasoned Singapore Expat Women, an online community and safe space for women who have been in Singapore for at least 3 years. Truly “seasoned” herself, Anju is British expat with over 14 years in Singapore. Anju is a girl-about-town and avid culture-vulture who delights in the varied experiences that Asia has to offer.
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Ways to Earn a Living in Singapore By Dee Khanduja
Recent changes to work permits for foreigners Dependant’s Pass Holders in Singapore has left many wondering: Is it Many DP and LOC holders were dealt a blow possible to earn an income in Singapore without earlier this year when MOM announced changes being a Permanent Resident (PR), or holding an to the LOC structure. Employment Pass (EP), S Pass, Letter of Consent Due to the higher salary thresholds and criteria (LOC), or other work permit? for EPs, and the quota limits for S Pass holders, The short answer is yes and no. This article many DP and LOC holders have been wondering goes through some ideas on how you may earn how they can earn a living in Singapore without an income in Singapore legally, without a local flouting the relevant rules. work permit, though certain conditions apply. It is worth nothing that some DP holders may I recently gave a talk for CRCE about how to be eligible to apply for a work permit, should it work in Singapore under the revised guidelines. be difficult to obtain an EP or S Pass. I discussed a lot in that talk including hot new As stated on the MOM website: industries, pivoting, and more. I also discussed the information shared here. “Dependant’s Pass holders who get a Work Permit will have the Work Permit’s validity To get to the bottom of the matter, I spoke to period tied to that of the Dependant’s Pass. both the Ministry of Manpower (MOM) and the As dependants of valid pass holders, they will Inland Revenue Authority of Singapore (IRAS) to not be subject to source requirements, sixattempt to gain some clarity on the scenarios monthly medical examination, security where someone can work in Singapore without bond and pregnancy restrictions.” a work pass. 60 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
business You may wish to reach out to MOM and talk Singapore on overseas assignments, that are not to potential employers to see if you are eligible connected with Singapore in any way. for a work permit, should an S Pass or EP Both MOM and IRAS mentioned that we are not be possible. able to derive a “global income” and have it paid to our Singapore accounts. However, there are A Changing Landscape in the conditions to this. Namely, our global income Workplace must be derived from activities that are wholly With the advent and acceptability of remote conducted outside of Singapore. working being a new norm, many opportunities Or put another way, we can provide products open up globally. We are seeing a rise in jobs and services for overseas companies/clients, that indicate remote work as a feature of the job. and service overseas markets, as long as our Additionally, the “gig economy” is thriving and work is not connected to Singapore in any way. growing exponentially. Companies can source talent globally, instead of focusing on those In such instances, it is possible to derive global solely within the local market. income and receive it in Singapore. Since you are able to earn global income, derived from This means you can jump on the bandwagon providing your services overseas, you may be by offering your skills, expertise, products, and able to explore other markets to target your services to the overseas market in a variety goods and services. of formats. You could apply for jobs in another country while you remain based in Singapore. In Suddenly the world is your oyster. such cases, the role should serve an overseas Some Ideas to Explore market, with no connection to Singapore. Here are some ideas on how you could earn For example, if you are a marketing professional, you could apply for marketing jobs outside of an income for your skills in Singapore, without Singapore to offer your marketing services. But breaking any rules locally: would you need an appropriate work pass to be • Research remote freelance or contract able to work overseas from Singapore? work for companies based overseas. For example, you could be a copywriter Overseas Income Earned in Singapore providing services to an Australian business. As you are probably already aware, if you are on • Explore permanent employment with an a DP in Singapore, you need to obtain the correct overseas employer that provides services work pass to be able to work in Singapore. But outside of Singapore. For example, you these rules don’t necessarily apply if you obtain could get a job with a company in your home work outside of Singapore. country, but work remotely from Singapore. According to the IRAS website: • Search for ad-hoc gigs with global “Generally, overseas income received entrepreneurs or companies. Use LinkedIn in Singapore by you is not taxable and to network for leads. need not be declared in your Income Tax • Collaborate with other companies to Return. This includes overseas income supply your products to another market paid into a Singapore bank account.” For example, if you make soaps, perhaps When I spoke to MOM, they confirmed that you could partner with a company in New DP holders could in fact work remotely from Zealand to supply your soaps to that market. LIVING IN SINGAPORE 61
Marketplaces for Skills The gig economy is here to stay! It is estimated that the global gig economy will be worth $347 billion this year, and will grow to $455 billion in 2023. Some websites where you could list your services include: www.fiverr.com www.upwork.com www.peopleperhour.com
LOC-run Small Business
• Explore the possibility of setting up your business entity overseas instead, perhaps in your home country. You could also look into collaborating with a partner in another country. With both of these ideas, you will need to research tax implications. It’s worth speaking to IRAS to find out how/if you must declare such income in Singapore, and under what structure.
Marketplaces for Products
If you have a product-based business, you could Some LOC holders running small businesses list your product on marketplace or product have been worried about their ability to keep an listing websites, such as: LOC due to the changed criteria. Not all small www.amazon.com (Remember to look at business holders qualify for an EP. For such the overseas Amazon marketplaces and not business holders, here are a couple of ideas the Singapore one, or you may be deemed to on how you may be able to still operate your be providing your products to the Singapore business, albeit in a different context: market.) • If you run a business on an LOC supplying www.etsy.com non-perishable products, perhaps target www.notonthehighstreet.com the overseas market instead of Singapore.
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Income Tax on Global Income
clearly out. But this need not result in us closing shop and falling into despair. There are still ways There are certain situations where global to earn an income in Singapore. derived income is taxable in Singapore. If you had a business that targeted the Singapore I suggest you visit the IRAS website to get the market, then perhaps this is the push needed low-down on the scenarios where you need to to think globally. And perhaps a global market declare your global income, so you can pay the could present more opportunities than the local correct tax. one. It’s also a great time to seek out global Please do contact both MOM and IRAS to partners and explore win/win partnerships. check about your individual situation and run Change is daunting, but I hope this article any scenarios past them. This will help you set provides ideas for you to expand your narrative yourself up correctly, should you wish to explore and explore further. any of the ideas in this article. Different times call for different measures and different thinking. The “old” way of doing things is
Be sure to check out upcoming CRCE events, which will expand on some of these ideas! Start Your Own Business in Singapore
Starting an Online Business
October 12, 12:00-1:00PM
October 28, 2:00-3:00PM
Come learn from Ng Geok Lan, Executive Confidence coach, author and businesswoman, Director of Finova Singapore Pte Ltd., who Carol Gockel will run this informative session helps expats set up businesses every day. on how to build an online business. She’ll walk you through the steps you need to take to make your dream come true.
Dee is the Founder of The Butterfly Letters, a publishing company that publishes stories told through physical letters. She is a Career Coach, Certified Futurist and Long Term Analyst™, with 20 years of experience working in the recruitment sector in Asia and Europe. As a best-selling Author and qualified copywriter, she writes for the American Association of Singapore and Expat Living Magazine, and as a certified Trainer she consults with individuals and corporations..
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All Aboard Earth 300! By Lily Ong
The solution to climate change might be found aboard this futuristic, environmentally-friendly yacht. Feeling more like a movie set for Star Wars, the introductory party of Earth 300 was unlike any launch I’ve been invited to. The launch was at The Fullerton Hotel, a fivestar luxury hotel perched at the mouth of the Singapore River. The hotel has a fascinating history dating back to 1829 as an exclusive club for European tycoons, a hospital for wounded British soldiers, headquarters for the Japanese military administration in Singapore, and the backdrop of Singapore’s independence from colonial status to nationhood.
“The ocean holds immense value and regulates everything from crops to climate to supplying every breath we take, ” added the Gibraltar native. “Climate change is accelerating faster than we can chip away at it. If we want to make a true and lasting impact, we need to abandon the incremental in favor of bigger, bolder initiatives.”
I looked for the table with my place card and Of course, something this audacious requires found it up front below the staging area. What significant investments, but it’s the kind of took place onstage that night was something I project that would excite the uber wealthy. “A would not want to miss. 10-day ride on the nuclear-powered, emissionBeamed upon the stage screen was an free yacht will take one on the high seas for a aesthetically gorgeous vessel looking radical, price tag of around one million dollars,” disclosed sensuous and every bit futuristic. Sitting upon high Aaron. “But this is not about having billionaires in seas, the 300-meter vessel featured a 13-story bathtubs sipping glasses of champagne. Onboard cantilevered observation deck, individually Earth 300, they will get to contribute to the new designed staterooms and a bow that looked like creation of science and the survival of humanity, the kind of intricate puzzles my daughter will while engaging with some of the most eminent thinkers of the day - a renaissance of the romantic dedicate tireless hours to solve. scientific expeditions of the past.” “It’s nuclear,” shared CEO of Earth 300, Aaron Having found partnership with IBM, RINA, Olivera. Addressing the wide-eyed audience in a suit as sharp as his idea, he went on to explain Wärtsilä, Triton Submarines, EYOS Expeditions how a new generation of atomic energy that’s and Singapore Space and Technology Limited (to safe, sustainable, and 100% emission free (and name just a few), established bases in Singapore, a confluence of the brightest minds upon an London, Barcelona, Milan and Honolulu, and ocean research laboratory) could be the answer completed naval engineering and vessel design, to climate change. Their tools include the latest Earth 300 looks set for a majestic 2025 sail. quantum computer, artificial intelligence, robotics, machine learning, real time data processing, and 160 of the world’s leading scientists. 64 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
In Memoriam Sergeant William “Bill” Hook, US Marine Corps, lived a life of adventure, travel, and service that most people can only dream about. Bill passed away peacefully at his home in Singapore on September 29, 2021, at 96 years young. Born June 16, 1925, in Norton Hill, New York, Bill grew up in a single parent home. Never having finished high school, he worked odd jobs, including as a parking lot attendant in New York City. At the age of 16, Bill shipped out as a deckhand on an oil tanker plying the waters between the US and Venezuela. When World War II began, Bill joined the Marine Corps on August 1, 1942, at age 17. He mentioned years later that the oil tanker he was on in those early days as a merchant mariner was torpedoed and sunk during the war losing all hands, including his friends. Bill served in the Pacific theater. Shortly after graduating from boot camp, he was stationed in Guam to prepare for the Battle of Okinawa. During that time, he was hand-picked to be the driver for Colonel Gale T. Cummings for the 3rd Amphibious Corps (now called III Marine Expeditionary Force). Bill landed in Okinawa on Easter Sunday, April 1, 1945, after many of the military and civilian targets had been destroyed. Even as recently as his 96th birthday, Bill recalled the horrors of the death and destruction he witnessed there, but always felt very lucky that he was not there during the heaviest street-to-street fighting. In a recent interview with Stars & Stripes, Bill recalled, “I had mixed emotions about the whole thing. I was happy that we got the job done, but there were so many lives lost in the effort. As I walked on top of the rubble, I knew there were bodies under me.” At the end of the war, Bill was part of the Marine contingent sent to China to receive the Articles of Surrender from the Japanese commander on the Mainland. Post-war, Bill worked in various jobs and eventually spent 27 years with IBM before retiring to Singapore in 1981.The father of five, Bill has mostly been living in the city-state with his second wife, Sally Hook Lee Siew Lan, since retirement. Over the decades, Bill and Sally have been much loved and active members of the American Association of Singapore for more than 30 years, The American Club, and the Blessed Sacrament Catholic Church. – Glenn van Zutphen, Former President, American Association of Singapore
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CAREER RESOURCE CENTER FOR EXCELLENCE PERSONAL & PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT
ARE YOU LOOKING TO DEVELOP YOURSELF PROFESSIONALLY OR PERSONALLY IN SINGAPORE? If so, the Career Resource Center for Excellence (CRCE) is the place for you! CRCE is for individuals residing in Singapore who are: • job hunting in Singapore • contemplating a career change • looking to get back into the workforce • wanting to further develop their professional skills • considering entrepreneurship • interested in personal development
MEMBER BENEFITS Job Search • Exclusive access to a members-only jobs board • Weekly email alerts with the latest jobs • Upload your resume for employers to review
Workshops & Events • Member pricing to workshops and events • Complimentary admission to one workshop • Access to selected AmCham events
Join CRCE today! Membership begins on the day you join for 12 months. CRCE membership is $220. If you’re a current AAS member, for an additional $100, you can add CRCE access. Talk to us about joining now! crce@aasingapore.com
Take our survey to let us know what you’d like to get out of CRCE! Complete it by August 20 and current AAS and CRCE members will be entered in a drawing to win High Tea for Two at Raffles Hotel.
