A Brief History of the American Diner’s Everlasting Charm By Theodorus Ng
The pandemic has undeniably and indefinitely put a pause on all travel activities, including plans for American families to return home. The occasional homesickness can indeed be difficult to bear. However, in globalized, multicultural Singapore, you can certainly find familiar and comforting elements of America that will make your hometown feel a bit less distant. Food arguably possesses the strongest ability to remind us of home – not only for appealing to our gustatory senses which then evoke fond emotions and memories, but also because cuisine is so inextricably connected with culture and heritage. The American cuisine is difficult to define – really, it is an amalgamation of many cultures introduced by immigrants and the indigenous. But it is this very diverse history that makes the American cuisine greater than the sum of its parts and reflects a multicultural ideal similar to Singapore’s. This unique magic resides most prominently in American diners. 48 LIVING IN SINGAPORE
The Art Deco exterior, complete with resplendent neon sign trim, draws you in to absolute familiarity. The tiled floors, a long Formica counter lined with high seats on one side and diligent cooks on the other, working the griddle; booths waited on by gregarious staff chatting with diners over the tunes of the jukebox; and the distinct aroma of sputtering bacon mixing with Bunn-O-Matic coffee. This is the quintessential American experience. Grab a cup of joe and enjoy this exposition on the American Diner.
The Evolution of Diners The diner’s inception can be traced back to 1872, when Walter Scott sold food out of a horse-pulled wagon to blue-collar workers in Providence, Rhode Island. This was more like the food trucks we see today, as food was served through windows and patrons stood on the street to eat. His idea gained traction because it was affordable and convenient as it remained open late into the night. Yet, the decrepit state of boxcars, and the disreputable patronage the late hours attracted, led to bans in New York and Atlantic City.