interviews and articles
all about SIZ and more
Sustainable Fashion and Lifestyle issue no. 1
CONTENT 04 About SIZ brand presentation
18 Interview Annelaure & Krisztina
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06
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Beneath the Palm Oil an ingredient Canopy for cotext and deforestation concept
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The Sustainable beginning Fibres for a more sustainable life
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6 Sustainable Is our love products for sustainable? conscious travelers
16 Tencel an introduction
30 Interview Patrícia & Miguel
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Interview Eunice Pais
12 Sustainable Portuguese brands
About SIZ an organic, ethical and sustainable fashion brand Hello everyone! We’re Raquel and Sofia, we’re twins and best friends. We’re also co-founders and designers of SIZ. Yes, we can be siblings and co-workers at the same time! We always loved arts and fashion, and when we were children, besides dancing all the time, we used to draw together for hours. Although it was just a hobby for a time, we later studied plastic arts, then fashion design and later styling and fashion production. We love fashion, and we love our planet as well, so to create clothes is not enough for us, we always have sustainability in mind when planning our new collections. If you’re still thinking about our brand name, let’s get through it, then. As you can imagine it's not easy to choose your brand's name. We knew that we wanted something personal, but not our names. Something small and easy to say. So, when a friend suggested SIZ, we loved it. SIZ, like short for "sister" but with a twist: the Z is a reflection of the S, they look alike but are still different, like us. All our collections aim to transport you to a special place, where you can reflect. We need something to inspire us to create, right? And what better than something that can inspire you too? Inspire us all to be better, in little actions! We already talked about climate changes and what we can do about it, the new nomads and new feelings of society, plastic overconsumption and its pollution effect on the ocean, and lastly, about Glacier Melting. In this new collection we
talk about the terrible problem that is the deforestation caused by the production of palm oil. This concepts, then inspire us in terms of form, color, feelings… it’s a beautiful mix! Other important thing is the fabrics. Yes, the colors are a big deal, but the touch is the most important! We love swatches and love to see them all together! We search for the most sustainable fabrics, either organic cotton, linen, lotus or hemp, or other options like deadstock that we rescue from factories. This can be even more sustainable because we’re not creating more material and we’re preventing these pieces of “trash” to go to landfills. We also use sustainable fastening! Other sustainable practices we do at SIZ are: sustainable tags (made of t-shirt off-cuts) organic cotton labels, compostable mailers, reused boxes and using leftovers as string. And an important one, we chose a seamtress that is a 5min walk from us. So, it means we don’t need to drive to check our production, to give her new fabrics or zippers or even to get the finished clothes. Some pieces are made in our small studio as well, where we work surrounded by cactus and books. We love to be creative, to work from planning the collection, through the making process and to the campaign shooting! We do everything with love and we hope you feel it!
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BRAND PRESENTATION
SIZ Spectialty: Ethical and sustainable clothing and accessories. To create some awareness to social and environmental problems. Easy to go yet stylish outfits. Small and local production, with the utmost care and love. By: Twin sisters Raquel and Sofia Rodrigues Design location: Sesimbra - Portugal (in our Studio, or at a caffé with a sea view)
Material sourcing: Portugal (new organic fabric or deadstock fabric), Turkey and Germany
Fibres used: Organic Cotton, Lotus, Hemp, Lyocell, Recycled Polyester, Cotton (off-cuts or deadstock) Fastening used: Wooden Buttons, Dead Stock Zippers (all made in Portugal)
Favourite Piece
Manufacturing suppliers
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Their addresses: Sesimbra, Setúbal, Leiria – Portugal Environment friendly shipping practices: Compostable packaging or, if needed, repurposed boxes. Totebags made in the studio with organic cotton canvas and with natural ink print - to wrap the clothes.
Guinean Dress
Percentage of materials that have environment friendly attributes or certifications? 100%. Part of them has GOTS certification and other part is deadstock fabric from Portuguese factories. Wooden buttons and sustainably produced zippers.
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Beneath the Canopy Context and Concept
A collection inspired by Crown Shyness, a natural phenomenon that occurs among trees and can be observed in tropical forests. It is a reminder that even when apart - we all live under the same canopy. Many dangers threaten our beautiful jungles, and deforestation is one of them. Jungles only take up to 7% of the earth’s surface but they are vital to the planet and our existence. They store and capture more carbon than any other habitats on land. They cool our planet. And it is the habitat with the most diverse range of flora and fauna on the planet. Today the biodiversity of jungles is in danger. Orangutans are our closest ancestor. They share 96.4% of our DNA and are highly intelligent. In the last four decades the lowland jungle that orangutans depend on has declined by 75%. This is mainly because of palm oil plantations. Today we have replaced 27 million hectares of jungle with palm oil trees. We must do something!
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simplicity
Márcia Soares
Photography
Iolanda Almeida Model at Onway Models
The Congruence Project Art direction and Production
premium quality
PALM OIL an ingredient for deforestation and devastation
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For our fall/winter collection, we have decided to look at and make people aware of palm oil and its devastating effect on the rainforest and its jungles, causing a chain reaction in the environment which leads to irreversible loss. What is palm oil? Palm oil is an edible vegetable oil that comes from the fruit of oil palms. Indonesia and Malaysia make over 85% of the global supply of palm oil. 42 other countries also produce palm oil. Due to its versatility palm oil can be found everywhere. It can be found in 50% of the packaged products sold in supermarkets. Why is it bad? The high demand for palm oil due to its versatility is behind most of the deforestation in the world. Oil palms are replacing most of the forest trees and ecosystem. This has led to the destructions of habitats of orangutans, pygmy elephants and Sumatran rhinos because the lowland jungles they depend on have been removed to make room for palm oil plantations. A rainforest and its jungle serve many ecological functions. One of them lies at the very bottom in its carbon rich peat soil. Peat soils are unique and are rich in carbon and biological diversity. They accrue when dead plants partially decay in soils soaked with tannin rich water and organic matter gradually collects layer by layer over hundreds and thousands of years. Peatlands are known as ‘carbon sinks, absorbing and storing large amounts of carbon dioxide. The loss of forests combined with the conversion of this carbon-rich peat soil means massive amounts of greenhouse gases are released into the atmosphere, adding to the rapid warming of our planet. Today we have replaced 27 million hectares of jungle with palm oil trees. You may think ‘trees are trees - what is the difference’? But palm oil trees support only a fraction of the species found in our rainforests, driving animals to extinction. Our closest ancestors have suffered greatly at the hand of palm oil plantations. Orangutans share 94.4% of our
DNA and are considered highly intelligent. They are now critically endangered. Orangutans are the largest arboreal mammals, using their long powerful arms and grasping hands and feet to allow them to move through branches of the forest. They are ‘gardeners’ of the forest, playing a vital role in seed dispersal in their habitats. Orangutans usually spend most of their time in trees living a solitary existence and prefer to be in the river valleys and floodplains of the lowland jungle. But these habitats are disappearing. Over the last four decades, the lowland jungle they depend on has declined by 75% due to palm oil plantations and other agricultural plantations. Orangutans are forced to move into agricultural areas because they cannot find food in the forests. As a result, they often get shot for destroying the plantations.
Oil palm fruit
Right now, we’re guessing, yo’ve started to feel quite angry about palm oil. So, what is the solution? It may surprise you, but boycotting palm oil is not the answer. For one, it is in nearly everything and therefore very difficult to avoid. Also, it can be listed under many different names. So, when you are looking for palm oil on the label, it can be masquerade as something else: vegetable fat, glyceryl stearate, sodium lauryl sulphates - to name only a few. The good news is, if done right the palm oil industry can be sustainable. It can create a huge number of jobs and make an important contribution to local economies. How is that possible? Palm is an industrial efficient crop. It produces more oil per land area than
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any other vegetable oil. Globally, palm oil supplies 35% of the world’s vegetable oil demand on just 10% of the land. In 2004, the Round table of sustainable palm oil (RSPO) was founded. It sets standards for more ethical and sustainable palm oil production and works with and evaluates companies to guide them towards a more sustainable future of the palm oil industry. You can look for the RSPO logo on the packaging. However, most companies, even if they are RSPO certified, choose not to put the logo on their products because they think it looks like a marijuana leaf. This makes shopping more difficult but, generally, a quick google search can tell you if the product contains palm oil. We also recommend the “giki” app which evaluates products and lets you know if a product contains palm oil. Our jungles are one of the richest habitats on earth, 7% of the earth surface is covered by jungle and they are vital to our existence and survival. They store and capture more carbon than any other habitat on land. This is why it is so important to protect them and preserve what is left of them. We need to start making more ethical, sustainable choices and think responsibly on how our actions impact our beautiful home planet. Most of this information was found on the world wildlife fund website and the RSPO website. If you are interested in the subject, we highly recommend you check out their websites and educate yourself further.
Young orangutan in a rainforest
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TENCEL ™ an introduction
For our latest collection, we chose Tencel™ as one of our fabrics. But what is Tencel™? Tencel™ is a branded name for lyocell developed by the brand Lenzing. Lyocell is made from wood pulp, normally eucalyptus trees, which are fast growing and reach full maturity in approximately seven years. Apart from growing very quickly, Eucalyptus requires no artificial irrigation or gene manipulation. Trees are grown in fully licensed sustainably managed forests and some producers are currently exploring options to become organically certified. Lyocell is made of generated cellulose fibre, which is an organic compound. It is a renewable bio-based fibre. Lyocell is fully biodegradable and will degrade within 6 weeks on an aerated compost heap. How does it work? Wood pulp is dissolved in a non-toxic organic solvent solution of anime oxide. The solvent solution is non-corrosive and all the waste products are non-hazardous. The dissolved wood pulp is then placed in a spinneret. The spinneret produces long fibres which are then dried and woven into cloth. The solvent is extracted from the fibre
as it is washed. The manufacturing process recycles 99.5% of the solvent. How is it eco-friendly? Tencel has many environmental benefits. The source of the fibre, Eucalyptus trees, is a fast-growing, renewable resource which does not require artificial irrigation or genmanipulation. Recycling the solvent makes the production process eco-friendly due to the closed looped system. The fibre does not require any bleaching before processing because naturally it is already an exceptionally clean fibre. This reduces the chemical, water and energy consumption in the dyeing process. Also the required drying time is only around 20% to 30% of the energy that is needed to dry cotton. Fabric properties Tencel™ comes from nature and is gentle on the skin and suitable for the sensitive skin. The Tencel™ we have used is super soft and comfortable to wear. We have used a medium weight Tencel™ for our “Kinabalu skirt”, “Wallacea top” and “Guinean Dress” and a lighter Tencel™ fabric for our
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“Monteverde shirt”creating soft and comfortable clothes for every day wear. The fabric is breathable and suitable for low temperature laundering, making it more friendly for the planet. Tencel™ uses a process called “dope dyeing”. This way of dyeing offers longer lasting colour, in addition to a faster dyeing process. Also, lyocell fibres are versatile and distinguished by their strength among cellulose fibre. Perfect for designing for longevity. Challenges Even with all the environmental benefits, producing lyocell takes a lot of energy. Also, the fibre tends to crease and fibrillate in its wet state. Early versions of the fabric often appeared creased and fuzzy with white lines and damage marks on the finished products which limited its market appeal. By now, treatments have been developed to prevent fibrillation being generated in a domestic washing machine. We found Tencel™ is an amazing, versatile fabric and we enjoyed using it for our collection. We hope you enjoy it, too!
Interview --Annelaure and Krisztina
Do you like photography and care about sustainability? Then you have to get to know Annelaure and Krisztina. They are the cutest couple and create beautiful stories through photography. Working with them is always so funny and we always learn new things about their work and personal ethics and values. When did you come to live in Portugal? We arrived here almost four years ago. And when and how did you meet? You are so cute together! Thanks *blushing*! We met 11 years ago, at a photographic studio in London, where Annelaure worked as a studio assistant and Krisztina as on-site producer. We became a couple shortly afterwards. You focus your life in sustainability, you’re vegan and you only work with sustainable brands. Why is that? Can you explain your method of work too? We try to work primarily with sustainable brands although that is not always possible. It is our belief that working towards a healthier consumption of fashion is the future. We have ourselves contributed to the world of fast-fashion and decided a few years ago, it was not how we wanted the next generation to experience fashion. We try to search for like-minded people to work with (like we did with you girls :)), to help us create a better future. We have been lucky in a way, as Portugal has a lot of people keen to make a difference environmentally and to showcase it creatively. What were the first steps you took on your sustainable journey? Our journey began with the guidance of a friend and one of our all-time heroes, Khandiz Joni, makeup artist, come environmental agent, come activist. We met on set and our fascination began when we watched and listened to her passionately explaining ethical, organic and vegan make up products she was using. We had no idea so many chemicals existed in the products we were covering our bodies in and then washing down the drains into our oceans. From those moments, we became more and more aware and passionate about everything regarding sustainability. What do you think about greenwashing? Is sustainable fashion being used the wrong way? Greenwashing is something we come across every day, everywhere now. Large corporations taking minute steps towards more sustainable practices, whilst making a huge deal out of it, when they can afford to do so much more. The main question one has to ask is not “why is sustainable fashion so expensive” but “why is fast fashion so cheap”? All the sustainable lines of the large fashion brands are still being produced in the same way; unnecessarily high quantities, produced in unsafe conditions by people being paid well below living-wages. Just because they are labelled sustainable, because perhaps most of the line is mainly made of organic cotton for example, the rest of the line is often still made out of fabrics that are non-recyclable, non-biodegradable, and the majority of which will, most certainly, still end up in a landfill. In your opinion what is still missing in the sustainable world? Support. If more people cared about the world they were leaving behind for their kids and grandkids, they would support the sustainable world more. It is a shame the majority live in a “throwaway” “one use” culture, but we are hoping the small changes we are seeing will snowball into bigger changes and the support will come suddenly and forcefully! Tell us a little about your journey. Have you both always wanted to be photographers? How did you start and what inspires you? We’ve both been on long journeys to where we are now. Annelaure started in film and screenwriting studies and then fell into photography through assisting inspiring photographers such as Paolo Roversi and Greg Williams. Krisztina started in the world of fine art, as a painter
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and then fell into photography in her teens, then moving into stills production after uni. Both of us wanted to be creatives but craved to do it alongside someone, instead of on our own. When we met, it all fell into place and alongside our other work, we started AL&K, working as a duo. We are still deeply inspired by and connected to cinema and fine art which we try to recreate in our imagery, usually working with continuous film lighting, as opposed to flash. Telling stories and creating some magical visuals have always been a passion and a way of working. We believe that visual media is so powerful and can be used to influence, inform and change people's minds. But sadly, most of time, it has been used in the wrong way. This is why we will always try to inspire and be inspired for a better future. How is it to work with your partner? Difficult or not that much? How do you balance the personal and professional lives? We were a couple for around a year when we started working together part time. It has been a learning curve for sure! We have evolved so much and the beginnings were most definitely tougher than now. We realised early on, that we complemented each other perfectly; the areas one of us didn’t enjoy as much or have as much knowledge in, the other one did and vice versa. At the beginning we put a lot of pressure on completely separating work from our personal life, but now we are much more easygoing and relaxed about it. We have accepted our photography is simply such a huge part of us and what made our relationship work and blossom, that we embrace it and don’t focus too much on that “work/personal life balance”. It’s much healthier this way and it gives free flow to all our creativity! What is your advice for those who are starting a career as a photographer? Wow, that’s a tough one. Our industry is really suffering at the moment. We don’t even want to get into what Covid has done to our industry. Smartphones and editing programs are slowly killing the origins of photography. BUT they are turning it into something new. Something much less focussed on quality but more focussed on quick content creation. It’s almost like fast-fashion!!! Now fast-photography is what clients ask for. We try our best to keep our quality whilst also speeding up the process to what is needed today. Our advice will always be to assist assist assist. Working with more experienced photographers, even producers, gives you unparalleled insight into the industry. Any plans or projects for the future? Always! Lots! :-D We actually have a few of our images in an exhibition coming up in November. It will be at a beautiful old palace in Príncipe Real which is currently waiting for developers to come in. In the meantime, a group of creatives have taken it over for a year and will be organising all sorts of amazing cultural and creative events. This exhibition will be a group showing by 25 artists and the theme is “first times”. The work we will be presenting will be a never-shown project; our first one we did together! Follow our Instagram (@alandkphotography) for updates on when and where!!! :)
It is our belief that working towards a healthier consumption of fashion is the future 19
Their work
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The beginning for a more sustainable life By Carolina Santiago The path to a life with more sustainable practices can be daunting: there is so much that we must change in our daily lives and so much of our routine that contributes to the destruction of the planet that, when we decide to put a brake on the growth of the ecological footprint, we do not even know well where to start. The truth is that, when it comes to good practices and actions, the important thing is to start, however small the step is. The idea is to have more sustainable practices within what our life allows us, without losing motivation because we are unable to have a 100% sustainable life. The slightest change in our habits can have incredibly positive consequences, and every little drop in the ocean counts. We learn every day, we adapt too. Over the years, I learned to change a lot on my day to day. It is a process that never ends, actually. At the beginning, I always felt quite lost and frustrated, not knowing where to start and, after many conversations and wise people who passed by me, I realised that I wanted to take a bigger step than my leg, wanting to be sustainable without starting by the basics. Maria Sousa, who works in communication and fashion production, agrees and reveals that one of the biggest obstacles to sustainability is “the lack of information and the wrong information that is shared. The information shared on sustainable practices on more mainstream platforms is still very little and usually superficial. To learn more, I always have to research scientific articles”. Thus, I decided to gather some of the changes I made and create a list that will not only help
guide those who feel lost, but will also remind those who have been moving in this direction for some time. No to plastic bottles Getting a glass bottle - which is infinitely recyclable - or a material that is resistant and suitable for transporting liquids (such as aluminium or stainless steel, for example) is one of the fundamental first steps towards sustainability. The amount of plastic bottles that are saved is much greater than what can be calculated. Although plastic is recyclable, the truth is that most end up in landfills, rivers or seas, disturbing the fauna and flora. It is an investment that will not only decrease the use of plastic but will also motivate you to drink more water, for example! My bottle is thermal and, therefore, it is excellent for taking warm tea for a walk in the park or for work. Another good option is to choose cardboard bottles, either for liquids or for another food product that is usually sold in plastic. In case there is no drinking water to fill the sustainable bottles and there is no alternative but to buy water in plastic bottles, the ideal option would be to buy larger water bottles, instead of small bottles, since it generates less waste and also because the energy and raw materials spent on production were much less, compared to a small plastic bottle. There are also filters that clean the water, for example, activated carbon filters.
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Alternatives to traditional transports When there is an opportunity, walking is always an excellent option. Less pollution, more exercise. There are also other alternatives like riding a bicycle, scooter or even skateboard, for those who are more radical. Isabel Lameirão discovered a new passion during the quarantine: riding a bicycle. “I started cycling in the quarantine to relieve anxiety caused by the pandemic and study at home. Without expecting, and since in the quarantine months I didn't carry my pass, I was going to the supermarket, the florist, making short visits to family members, going to the driving school and doing photography services using the bicycle as a transport alternative. I love to ride a bike, but I feel sorry for not feeling so comfortable riding in the winter or taking longer routes”, she says. “It benefited me not only in the sense that I was able to stay active, but I was able to save on the transport pass. It is a sports bike but I put a basket on it and it is very useful to go to errands!”. Unplug When you are not using any home appliance or going to sleep, remove the plug from the socket. Just leave the lights you really need on. It will make a difference.
SIZ’s totebag
Buy more consciously 20% to 50% of what we buy ends up in landfills. Buying just what we really want and need can have a giant impact on the health of the environment, mainly because most objects are either made of plastic or distributed in plastic/other extremely polluting materials that take hundreds of years to disappear or to be recycled. Many times, we buy objects that we don't really need or end up alongside so many others, for years and years, without use. Having a very clear idea of what we need and a fixed budget can be a great help. When in doubt, always wait a few days to really be sure that you really need or want it. Reflection can be the best friend of the environment. What is behind each piece of clothing? From objects, we move on to clothing, one of the biggest problems for sustainability. The textile industry is the second most polluting after oil. Is it a price worth the planet to pay? From rivers polluted by fibres to massive amounts of clothing. From excessive water consumption (for production) to CO2 emissions (production and distribution, especially when it is fast fashion online). To produce a t-shirt alone, 2700 litres of water are needed. Industry slowly sucks up the planet. And we contribute. How many times have we bought a piece of cothing and ended up returning it or just using it once or twice? A piece of clothing is much more than what we think: it is also history and past lives. It is also forgot pile of clothes in the closet. Joana César shares her first contact with a more sustainable fashion: “I remember going to Feira das Almas, about 5 years ago. That was when I had my first experience of second-hand clothing. Over the years, I realized that the fast-fashion industry was not what I believed to be, and I kept distancing myself more and more from it, until I reached the point where I am today, where I use only second-hand (selling and exchanging with friends, for example). She tells us that, to be more sustainable, for example, she uses the same garment many times, to the point of starting to have pimples, tearing or jumping a button. "When that happens, I try to mending it, either by sewing or patching it, so that it continues to do its job - instead of buying a new piece to
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replace it" she shares. Joana only replaces a piece when it is at the end of its life. However, there may also be some obstacles, and the fault lies not only with those who buy, as Daniela Martins tells us: “the biggest difficulty I feel is to deconstruct the consumerism of unethical brands. The most sustainable brands end up having prices very out of budget, generally, and it is difficult to make the change in this direction”. Daniela, a consumer of ethical and second-hand clothing, presents the following idea: “I propose that there are two lines in each brand, for example. One that is more accessible - and consequently of lower quality, maintaining sustainable production - and one with the highest quality, keeping the prices already practiced. I think that if they take advantage of the leftover fabrics from the more expensive line, they can do different things at cost 0 in terms of material, which they can sell at more affordable prices”. Help to clean up the environment Gathering a group of friends/acquaintances or even alone, picking up garbage (for example, from beaches or gardens) is an excellent method to have a cleaner planet and being more sustainable. There are many associations and groups dedicated to this mission! Catarina Silva has been concerned with the environment since she was 12/13 years old and, thus, she immediately grabbed the first opportunity to join the mission of cleaning the beaches, in an attempt to help improve the planet, however small that help was. “I feel that my contribution was essential”, reveals Catarina, “I helped, both directly and indirectly, to minimize marine pollution and also to save some marine animals, since many of them die due to human pollution.” However, the task is not an easy one - the garbage is so much that it is an activity that can extend for hours. Hours that will always be rewarding, always having the perspective that will translate into years of life for the planet. “The biggest difficulty was being able to clean all the trash. I feel that some people are unaware of the gigantic amount of garbage that human beings leave on the beaches, the number is really scary and I think more people should start helping with this
cleaning for that very reason”, shares Catarina. All kinds of objects can be found on the beach and walking on an infinite number of trips that, most of the time, disturb the fauna and flora. Catarina tells us that what she saw most were cigarette butts. “It is something that makes me a little frustrated, because I think there is not hard at all to throwing it in the trash can (there are trash cans on the beaches). In addition, I also found a huge number of (plastic) water bottles,” she says. Use a cloth bag for shopping Always carrying a cloth bag or a tote bag is essential. Instead of accepting the bags they usually give you when you shop, you should always have yours in your purses or bags, ready to save the planet. It is a stylish way to reduce the consumption of plastic bags. Try also to avoid the use of plastic bags to carry fruit/vegetables during the visit to the supermarket, or products of the same kind that are packaged and that can be bought without package. It is also a good way to be more selective in your diet, choosing less processed or altered products. The more processed a product is, the bigger its ecological footprint. Daniela Martins tries to be more sustainable, even in small things: “I always carry a tote bag to avoid asking for bags even in clothing stores, I use as well large reusable bags in the supermarket. I bring the loose fruit and stick the label on one of them, so I do not have to use a bag. I also reuse supposedly disposable plastic packaging (for example boxes of cotton swabs for storing lipsticks)”, she reveals. The neighbourhood grocery store Buying at local stores or someone who has their own production is an excellent way to reduce the ecological footprint and be more sustainable. Usually, these products have a much smaller impact, as they have not travelled so much and are grown/produced in more natural ways and in less quantity. Another alternative, for those who have the opportunity, it is to produce their own food.
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Eat less meat/dairy For those who do not have or do not want to adopt a vegetarian/vegan diet, reducing meat and dairy consumption is a very important step. Eating at least one vegetarian/vegan meal a week is an excellent contribution. A good example of this small measure is Gonçalo Reais, who continues to consume meat, however, does not dispense “make at least one vegan/vegetarian meal per week”, having mostly environmental motivations, “since these diets are usually more sustainable”. Gonçalo knows that “reducing meat consumption reduces the need to produce animals for that, allowing processes to be more human and less industrialized”, and for this reason, he does not hesitate to go towards this more sustainable way. “Being part of this process makes me feel better”. Carolina Monteiro is not a vegetarian, but she always makes an effort to eat as little meat and fish as possible. She was already completely vegetarian, but she is not currently (since September last year) “My motivation is a composition of several components. On the one hand, I have the ethical side of the issue. I cannot accept the idea of being a consumer of an animal industry and perpetuating a vicious cycle of violence and mutilation. Although the issue is
much more complex than supply-demand, and I do not think it is worth blaming merely those who buy or eat, both at this level and at the ecological level, I cannot help feeling guilty of being a participant. On the other hand, there is the environmental and animal agriculture issue. And I also consider health issues, because I know what a minimally balanced diet consists of, and it will alway be more healthier to eat vegan/vegetarian meals, than to consume animal products ”, she shares. Ecosia The Ecosia extension/browser is intended to help the environment. When searching in this browser – as you do in Google, for example - for each approximately 45 searches, Ecosia finances the planting of a tree. So far, this browser has planted around 110 00 000 trees. Spread the word Activism is a key act for sustainability. Passing the word and sharing our habits with our friends and family, in a passive way, and watching them apply, is trully rewarding - for us and the environment.
Beach Cleaning - SIZ x Maria Sousa, November, 10th, 2019
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Sustainable Fibres glossary
There are a lot of fibres that we can use to produce fabric. But just a few are sustainable and not harmful to our planet, our environment, and our bodies. Do you know them? Well, here you have a small glossary with some of the most used sustainable fibres. But remember there is still more of them. From the most common organic cotton to more unusual fibres like pineapple or soya.
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BAMBOO
HEMP
Bamboo is one of the world’s fastest-growing plants, it can reach maturity in about 4 years. The veriety used for conversion into textile fibre is moso bamboo or Phyllostachys which was and still is used in the construction and food industry. Bamboo fibres are stem fibres, so, unlike bast fibres, the entire stems is used, which is very resourceful. The stems can be either naturally converted into cellulose for processing into fibre or chemically processed into bamboo viscose. The chemicals used in this process can be harmful to the environment. The raw bamboo is crushed and pulped, then the process of hydro-alkalization extracts the natural cellulose which is made into fibre, bleaching processes may also be required. Bleaching is also a harmful process for the environment. Bamboo fibre can be spun finer than hair and is often blended with cotton. Bamboo textiles are very soft, softer than cotton. It has a natural sheen on the surface sometimes being compared to silk and cashmere. Bamboo is a naturally grown and sustainable resource that does not require the use of pesticides or chemicals, partly due to the anti-microbial and anti-fungal bamboo kun. It biodegrades naturally through exposure to sun and soil. It also can improve and replenish the soil in degraded or eroded areas, as well as generating more oxygen than the same acreage of trees. Bamboo offers a far greater greenhouse-gas conversion to oxygen rate than any other plants, as well regenerating itself almost immediately after each harvest. The more bamboo is planted the greater the photosynthesis, resulting in a reduction of greenhouse-gases.
Hemp is a variety of the Cannabis sativa plant species. Although “Industrial Hemp” is the more correct name, it’s commonly called simply “Hemp”. It has been used for centuries, being that China has the oldest tradition for hemp cultivation. It was used for ropes, clothing, shoes and paper in its early forms. Remains of hemp were found in Chinese pottery with 10.000 years old. It was also worn at Chinese funerals. For its production, hemp has to be panted, then harvested (in some parts of the world this process is still made by hand). The traditional method of separating the fibres included dew and water retting. Now retting is made by mechanical thermo-pulping. Although hemp is not easy to spin, it makes a good blend when mixed with cotton, for example. Hemp is so versatile that it can be made into the finest lace as well as the heaviest industrial fabric. Hemp has antibacterial and moisture-wicking properties, so it breathes beautifully. You may have heard it is the world’s most useful plant, which is true. Also, it is strongly ecologic and sustainable. Its crops grow quickly, and little more than 3 months after workers harvested the soil, they are better than if they had been added nutrients. Beyond that, hemp produces large amounts of oxygen and helps to manage the erosion of the topsoil. It requires no irrigation, pesticides, synthetic fertilizers or GMO seeds. Many hemp-made materials are naturally resistant to mould, mildew and insects. What a superhero!
KENAF
RAFFIA
Kenaf is a species of hibiscus and it looks like jute. It has been cultivated in Africa, India and Thailand for a long time, but in the present, the major producers are China and India. The fibres are extracted from the bast and core, and its natural colour is white. It is one of the most sustainable fibres because it requires the minimum use of pesticides or fertilizers.
Raffia palms are native to the tropical regions of Africa, Madagascar, and central and south America. The fibres are long and thin and absorb dye well. Raffia is used for shoe, hat, and bag production, as well as for decorative textiles.
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RAMIE
PIÑA
Ramie is an old fibre, used for more than 7000 years. It was used in Egypt for wrapping their mummies, for its resistance to bacteria and by farmers in China to weave their clothing. This fibre is very strong and its tensile strength can be five times tougher than cotton and two times tougher than linen and it is usually blended with cotton or wool. Once weaved it creates the same visual appearance of linen, so, many times, it is an alternative to that fibre, since its production costs are lower. Ramie production is made from the bark or stalks of the plant, which is harvested two to three times each year, or more, depending on some growing conditions. There are three stages in the process: harvest, soon after flowering; de-cortication, when the hard outer bark is removed; and washing, drying and de-gumming, getting everything ready to extract the fibre for spinning. Ramie can be harvested up to six times a year which makes it a very sustainable fibre in alternative to synthetic fibres, with a useful crop life of 6 to 20 years. And produces premium long vegetable fibres. It is recognized as a premium product because it is one of the strongest natural fibres.
This type of fibre is obtained from the leaves of the pineapple plant, that can be found in many parts of the world, but the one used to make fabrics for clothes is produced in the Philippines. It was a luxurious fibre in the past, exported from the Philippines to Europe. Princess Alexandra of Denmark received a famous piña handkerchief as a wedding gift, and Queen Victoria owned a petticoat and undergarment made of this special fibre as well. Production is done by removing strands from the leaves, which are scraped by hand and then tied together by hand, one by one, to create a continuous thread. The piña fibre is lightweight and soft and is normally white or ivory. Traditionally, this thread is woven by hand on a loom and made into the embroidered shirt named Barong Ttgalog, used by Filipino men and women in formal ceremonies. This fibre is a great sustainable choice since pineapple is already being grown for its fruits and the pineapple leaves generate big unused biomass and waste. By creating thread from the leaves we are making use of that material.
ABACÁ
JUTE
Abacá is the plant from which manila hemp, also known as Devo and Cebu hemp is produced. It is not commercially used as clothing fibre but there are developments underway, to unearth its viability as a sustainable alternative. The abacá are leaves from a sheath that grows from the trunk of the plant. The fibres range from 1.5 to 3.5m and are extracted from the sheaths in a three-stage process. The first, tuxing, is the separation of outer and inner sheaths of the leaves, followed by stripping the fibres and then they are sun-dried. Once the fibres have been separated, they are sold as manila hemp.
Jute is a long, soft and shiny fibre that usually is spun into a coarse and strong thread. It’s mainly composed by cellulose but also by lignin and that’s why it can be described as part textile, part wood. It has high tensile strength, low extensibility, and ensures better breathability of fabrics. It has been called “golden fibre” in Bangladesh because it was the biggest income from foreign trade. Jute’s production is made out of the outer skin or stem of the plant and begins with the retting, that involves immersing it in running water. Followed by the stripping, which means removing non-fibrous matter to reach the fibres on the stem. Jute is one of environment’s best friends, since it doesn’t require excessive watering, fertilizers or pesticides. It’s 100% bio-degradable and can be recycled several times throughout its life cycle.
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CORN
ORGANIC COTTON
corn fibre: The Ingeo™ fibre has high strength and stability, has low flammability, is more resistant to UV light and is more hydrophilic than common synthetics. Once blended with cotton or wool the resulting fabric is light and wicks moister away from the skin. Corn-fibre production is done utilizing photosynthesis, the starch is naturally stored in corn and is broken down and converted into dextrose sugar. The carbon and other elements of these natural sugars are used to make a biopolymer using fermentation and separation to produce the lactic acid. The water is then removed and the resulting resin is branded Nature works® PLA (polylactic acid), and when extruded into the high-performance fibre it is branded Ingeo™. The fibre is spun into yarn for woven or knitted textiles. Producing fibre from corn is a low-cost process that uses little fossil fuel, and there is a great quantity of raw material available. The garment, once discarded, can be returned to the earth, degrading into natural compost over time.
Cotton is the most used of natural fibres. Cotton is a soft fibre that grows around the seeds of the cotton plant. However, it is not always sustainable. It requires massive amounts of irrigation and herbicides and pesticides to grow quickly. However slowly farmers are heading towards a more organic and ecologically safe production. Organic agricultural methods rely on crop rotation and the use of natural enemies such as ladybirds to eat insects instead of using toxic-pesticides. Organic cotton does not use any genetically modified organisms but seeks to build a biologically diverse agricultural system, replenishing and maintaining the soils in the most fertility way possible. Organic cotton is far more expensive to produce nevertheless it dose not pollute and there is no over-production. Growing organic cotton keeps farmers and their families safe. They are not exposed to toxic chemicals in the field or through their food and water supply.
SOYA
LYOCELL
Soya is a renewable botanic protein fibre. Clothing made of soy is moisture-absorbing and the structure allows for ventilation. The fabric drapes well and is often considered to be as smooth as cashmere. It is also believed to synthesize the qualities of natural fibres with physical properties of synthetics. Soybean fibre is an advanced textile fibre produced by bio-engineering technology. It’s often marketed as green fibre of the 21st century that is completely biodegradable. The manufacturing process does not pollute, because the auxiliary agents used are non-poisonous. The residue that remains after the protein is extracted can be used as animal feed. However, in many countries, soyabean production is non-organic and genetically modified. This means that crops may be treated with chemicals to enhance production and deter weeds, and this is believed to affect the welfare of neighbouring livestock.
Lyocell is a cellulose fibre made from eucalyptus. The raw material is extracted from the eucalyptus wood. Eucalyptus grows very fast and without any artificial irrigation or gene manipulation. The wood pulp is dissolved in a solution of anime oxide, then is placed in a spinneret. The spinneret produces long fibres, which are then dried and woven into cloth. The solvent is extracted as the fibres pass through the washing process. The manufacturing process recycles 99.5% of it which is then reused. Lyocell is fully biodegradable within six weeks on an aerated compost heap. Lyocell is better know as the brand TENCEL®.
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Interview Patrícia and Miguel Patrícia and Miguel are a passionate creative duo! They are photographers, conscious travelers and environmental advocates, and we fell in love with them as soon as we discoverded their work.
Hello Patricia and Miguel! Tell us, how did you meet? We met at the University, we attended the same course (Sociocultural Animation) but in different years. In fact, Patrícia was already in her second year when I was in my freshman year and we met on freshers week. I chose her for my mentor and we immediately created a very close relationship. When and why did you decide to create the Patricia and Miguel project? Our current project arose from the need to encourage individual changes for positive global impacts and, currently, there is no better way to do it than through social networks, where we managed to reach many people in a short time. We then decided to take our image and our history and make them our mission, bringing awareness to a more fair, more ethical, more free and happy world. You are very inspiring, what is the secret to influencing people without imposing yourself? Many people call us "influencers" and it's actually a word that we don't even like very much because we don't want to just influence people. We are here to raise awareness, to open minds and inspire changes that are most favorable for the planet, for local communities and for ourselves. We don't want to influence people to quit their jobs, sell everything and travel around the world like we did, we want to inspire them to do what really makes them happy and makes sense to them.
We know from experience that working with someone in the family is not always easy. How do you distance work from personal life? We have worked and lived together for over 7 years and if there is anything that contributes to this personal and professional relationship, it is undoubtedly respect for each other. We are both people who really need their individual space, to do their hobbies and have their moments alone, and we don't care about asking each other for space when we need it most, in fact it just works. Keeping the communication open and knowing how to look at the other person as a professional when it is time is crucial. How or why were you interested in travel and sustainable tourism? Did you start traveling only after becoming interested in the subject or started to reflect on the subject after becoming travelers? 5 years ago we were working and living together in Ireland, in a residential home for children and young people at risk, a very heavy and emotionally and psychologically exhausting job, in addition to being far from our family and friends. We found ourselves unsupported, baseless, and unhappy, and it was then that we decided that we needed to meet again and discover our purpose in this world. We said goodbye, sold everything and went to Asia, we traveled from country to country with a backpack on our back in search of those paradisiacal beaches and rich cultural exchanges but we found something more... Plastic in the
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oceans, garbage on the beach, burned in full fields of rice, child exploitation, mistreatment of animals for tourist activities... And all of this coupled with our concern for the Planet (we were already vegan for a long time) made sustainability a constant in our daily lives and part of our mission professional too. What is sustainable tourism for you? For us it is much more than safeguarding the environment and natural resources. Sustainable tourism is about ensuring that we are taking care not only of current local communities but also of future generations, it is betting on activities that contribute to local economic growth, having authentic experiences, conserving culture,protecting wildlife and, above all, to have a positive impact on the environment, society and the economy, wherever we go. Why live and travel sustainably? Because it doesn't make sense any other way. We live in a magical planet that gives us everything we need to live healthy and happy and our currency must be respect, compassion and sustainability. It is time to stop thinking only about ourselves and realize that we live in community and that we must take care of what is our home, our air, our oceans. The individual actions we take today influence everyone's tomorrow, and when everyone gains that awareness and realizes that they are not alone, they will never again do something that harms the general good.
Now, a typical question that you probaly hear all the time, but that could not be missing: what is your favorite destination? It is impossible to choose just one destination because to date all the places we have traveled to have taught us valuable lessons and we have loved each one. But we can highlight Morocco, Indonesia and the Philippines, as they are destinations where we learn a lot about ourselves and our limits, we had many authentic experiences, rich cultural exchanges and a spectacular immersion in our self-discovery.
Cambodia, accommodations built only on bamboo and other sustainable materials... The choices are immense and we are sure that wherever you travel it is always possible to be part of some sustainable action, just search!
And which is the most sustainable? We would say it was Iceland. From using renewable energy, cleaning the streets, conserving nature and respecting others, Iceland has it all!
What is your favorite travel experience? For many people it is traveling by plane, for others a specific destination but for us, our favorite part is really waking up in a new place. That first morning when we are in a totally different country and we have to discover a new culture, talk to the locals, learn the basic words, look for a local market to buy fruit for breakfast and see how everything in each place it's so different, but it makes so much sense.
What are the most interesting initiatives you have seen around the world in terms of sustainability in the tourism universe? Throughout our travels we always like to participate in sustainable and conscious activities and some that we can highlight are: rescue of elephants that have been abused or used in circuses in Thailand, cleaning beaches in Indonesia, visits to local villages and schools in
Do you think conscious tourism is more expensive? No, we think this is an excuse and an easy way for people not to bother to travel consciously. Conscious tourism can be as simple as staying in local accommodation or camping or as complex as glamping in a luxurious sustainable place, it all depends onthe experiences we are looking for and the budget of each person, of course.
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Are there any parts of the trips that you don't show on social networks? If so, which one? No, we show everything. The good, the bad, what makes sense and what does not, then everyone judges as they see fit, but we like to be transparent and real in what we do. What destination have you not visited yet but want to visit? Hawaii. It is our dream destination for everything it represents, for all its nature, culture and community, and we can not wait for one day to get lost in that rich land. And finally, what are your best tips for travelers who want to be more aware and sustainable like you? Above all, research, research and research! Find out about the destinations to which you are traveling, seek to know the ethical and sustainable policies of the hotels or places where you stay and make sure that on each trip you leave a little bit of you and bring another little bit with you too, these exchanges are what enriches you and make you realize that we are part of a whole, we are not isolated individuals.
Their work
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6 sustainable products for conscious travelers Everything you may need in your trip
Reusable Cup
Tote Bag
Shampoo Bar
Charcoal Water Filter
Reusable Napkin 35
Reusable Bottle
IS OUR LOVE SUSTAINABLE ? by Teresa Mineiro Something that changed drastically since my childhood is the way I travel. My parents used to drag my siblings and I around, at least twice a year, for holidays in the beach or to visit cities throughout Europe. We can narrow down our holidays into a few fundamental activities: Having Fun (going to the beach or to theme parks), Eating and Drinking (we'd find restaurants and bars that we'd go back time and time again, real family landmarks), Resting (like having siestas after lunch), Cultural Experiences (visiting museums and monuments was crucial) and last but not least - Shopping. All of our trips had this moment where we'd hit the busy streets and enter as many shops as we were able to before my dad and brother would start complaining. If we got lucky, we would also find some fancy street markets. The times were different and all we could find abroad was turned into an extravagant show and tell, back at school, where my peers and I would share all the new stuff we got, from video games to CDs, to clothing. Nothing was more exotic than coming back from a holiday with all these new things nobody else had. The more new
stuff you bought, the more popular you'd be. And if you had good and loving parents, you'd be able to persuade them to get it for you too. Ever as much they would not want (or be able) to buy you the expensive sneakers or jacket. I remember the time when I realized that all we asked for was really freakin expensive and I started to curb my "need" to ask for more. We were living in the 90's and early 00's and then came the Euro. I figured, at 12 years old, that all the prices had doubled. Internet wasn't a thing at the time, so television was the main source of advertisement. But thinking back, there were already mini influencers in the making and sometimes I'd be one too. We were young and careless and at the school I attended, most parents were like mine. What these sweet parents didn't realize was that wanting their kids to have everything would have very strong economical, political and social consequences. Some parents would even bribe their kids, buying them stuff they wanted if they had good grades. Divorced parents would, oftentimes, compensate for the time they were not around, inundating their kids with gifts. So
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really, to buy was to love, and to deny something to your kid and even to yourself was proof that you were not showing this love. If you love someone, you buy them stuff, and that's the point where we’re at today. Our society has created special days for every kind of person, thing and situation: dads, kids, grandmas, teachers, birthdays, dogs, marriages, women, valentines, you name it. And for each living being that you love, that may fit into one of these categories, you have to show how much you care. So you buy. So that you feel your love is correctly shown by today's standards. Because if you don't buy a gift for your friend's babyshower, she will know you didn't take the time and don't value her enough as a friend as to spend some of your money in a beautiful new pacifier or nipple cream. Therefore, you don't love her. I'm not an exact exception, for sure, though everytime I try to put an effort and be mindful when I’m buying something for a loved one, I end up hating the whole situation because I feel like I'm like a puppet controlled by this over consuming society. But I want to love, and let others know that I love them.
I earn enough to live comfortably and to do what I please. I haven't been buying a lot of stuff for myself lately. I haven't bought a single item of clothing for the last year and a half, and I don't need new things. I'd rather spend my money on food and traveling around the world. I no longer do the shopping part of the holidays I used to do with my family. I spend my time taking all in, experiencing the culture. There's no time or money I want to spend in the act of pampering and "loving" myself with some purchases on a shopping spree day. So am I entering a phase where I'm anti-consumerism and anti-advertising? How can I be against this addictive system while I'm still linked to it in so many ways? Reading Bernard Stieglers's "The Disaffected Individualm in the Process of Psychic and Collective Disindividuation", I came upon a study case, where, just like in the examples I gave before, a french family came to the brink of infanticide and suicide because the parents were severely caught in the system where the love they felt for their children was measured by how much they were able to buy. Finding themselves at a point where they could no longer keep that rhythm, for they were in debt to the bone, and feeling utterly powerless towards the happiness of their family, they decided to end that suffering with the belief they would be able to depart for a better world. A more happy afterlife, where money wouldn’t be a problem. Trying to dissect this issue, I urge to understand what causes hyper consumption beyond this visible social behavior! Delving into Capitalism, I came across Moises Esteban Guitart's paper on "The consumer capitalist society and Its effects on identity: a macro cultural approach". He defends that, as a macro cultural factor, capitalism affects psychology and behavior. And that new environments require new identities. Following his line of though, I acknowledge that a lot has changed since my school days. And one thing that I think has changed the most is the intrinsic value of price .
20 years ago, at least in my protected environment of a middle class bubble, nobody talked about buying low cost or finding the best bargains. Back then, to buy was to love and to buy expensive was to love more. But times have changed and with a financial crisis hitting in 2008, and a lot of huge companies democratizing goods that were once unattainable for lower economical classes, a new behaviour has emerged. It seems now, that the lowest price you can get something for, the more satisfying and more worth bragging about your purchase will be. And I'm talking about the same people I went to school with. Probably their purchasing power is lower than the one their parents used to have prior to 2008 but I know for a fact that they still live pretty well. So why is it, that one of the focal conversation highlights in women's groups is to show and tell the latest bargains and discount products they got lately? And here I must pin down shopping for clothing as my main point, as it is in fact, a predominant topic in women's conversations. Did this behavior start post crisis so that people don't feel so bad spending a lot of money in only one thing? Because buying more for less is actually not so blamable? Is it related to shame? Or is it just related to marketing and manipulation? Industrialization is nothing new and with more open borders and most industrial societies being capitalist, the bigger the crowd these industries can reach. And with such democratization of prices, that lay upon technological advancements and the exploitation of the very cheap labor force from developing countries, these same companies get to set the example, the pace and even shape their client’s behavior through advertising. If the offer is ever increasing and if accompanied by very low and competitive prices, the more you'll be able to buy, therefore it will be possible to create and curate your own persona, to consolidate an identity that is your very own, distinctive from others. But here I have to go back to Bernard Stiegler's work, where he stands by the idea that the techniques used to create consumer behaviour
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amount to the destruction of psych and collective individuation, which in fact, goes totally against the creation of that "individual persona". Society finds itself at a point of intoxication, produced by the saturation felt in everyone by this addictive cycle which is hyper consumerism. A point where exhaustion of desire and the reign of spiritual misery predominates, creating a generalized disaffection in each and every member of this society. Is it because I tend to swim against the tide that I don’t consider myself disaffected? Because I'm kind of anti-consumerism, and even more so anti-hyper consumerism and manipulative advertising? If I'm not addicted to it, hence I can still feel affection? Am I being too self-assured? Because otherwise, (and I promise I’m getting to my final point), how can it be that even equipped with the knowledge that clothes and other products are being made by the hands of unfairly paid poor people, one, that lives in this capitalist, hyper consuming society, still brags about that t-shirt they got for only 2€? How come these people, who are aware about fossil fuels, and harsh destructive chemicals used in all sectors, keep on buying things that are made with resources that are polluting our planet and killing life all around the world? There are human lives at stake whenever someone decides to perpetuate a system that doesn’t care about the ones involved in the process of making something. Can we assume now that hyper consumerism is closely linked to today’s concept of love and that it will only lead society to despair and anxiety states that will label one capable of loving only if they are capable of buying? If buying means supporting a system that is damaging our planet and poorly treating people on the other end, I can only assume that this Love is as unsustainable as it is immoral.
Eunice Pais is the conscious photographer that you must know! We met a couple of years ago and her smile and joy made the instant connection. This last spring, when we were all in confinement, Eunice created special product photos for the Glacier Collection - Spring Drop. Get to know this beautiful soul and her work.
We know you spend a lot of time in Porto. Do you live there? Yes, my base is in Porto. What do you like most about Porto? I like the sense of community that exists there, everything is so cosy. I also appreciate the slower life I have there and the fact that I am 10-20m from any kind of nature (sea, river, mountains, etc...)
Interview --Eunice Pais
And where are you from? I was born in Lisbon. You focus a lot on sustainability. Do you only work with brands that share the same values? I focus only on working with brands with ethical practices, so yes, brands with the same values. For you, what is a sustainable clothing brand? I honestly don't think there are any sustainable clothing brands right now. I think there are brands that are super focused on being environmentally and socially responsible. If we consider the international shipping that brands offer, understandably, it is clearly not a sustainable practice but essential for a brand to survive. For me, a responsible brand is a brand that knows and treats the value chain with dignity, from those who “plant” the clothes to those who work on the image of the product (photography) and that is transparent. This brand is my ideal client, but a brand that is on this path and makes that effort is equally important. I think that sometimes the focus is only on fibres and fabrics and the process of them and we forget people and the dignity that they are entitled to. And a sustainable life? I always wonder about this because it is important that this movement is not a trend or something for a 'niche' of privileged people, as many cultures have inherently sustainable practices that must be respected and not appropriate. In the West and for me, a sustainable life is a conscious life without judgments and focused on regeneration and circularity: what I do impacts my life, the life of others, the earth. I regularly ask myself in order to maintain consistency and improve: how can I make the largest number of actions taken return to the earth as a sustenance and not a poison? How can I use my privilege to balance the differences (class, gender, etc.) that cause evident unbalances in ecosystems, etc. Does it make sense? What do you think about greenwash? It is a very powerful and terrible marketing strategy as it exacerbates individual responsibility when these companies should be held responsible. The consumer must learn and be informed about the products before consuming them and as greenwashing strategies are always evolving, you must always be alert, which makes a responsible purchasing almost a mission. Tell us a little about your journey. Have you always wanted to be a photographer? How did you start and what inspires you? I never wanted to be a photographer. In my “past lives” I have always worked with people, groups and communities. I photographed for leisure and gradually wondered how I could use photography with a greater purpose that aligned with my values. I chose ethical fashion because when researching and realizing that the production of clothing is mostly done by women, in conditions below of the ideal (not only in developing countries but in Portugal, England and the USA), it has become a humanitarian and consequently environmental issue ! And so it was. What inspires me ... nature without a doubt and honest people.
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How have you dealt with isolation and how has it affected your creative work? During the isolation I felt extremely creative because all the 'noise' outside, which causes me a certain level of anxiety, disappeared. In retrospect, confinement was an exercise in preparing how to abstract myself in any situation and be at my most creative. However, so many other things happened that reinforced the need to create work that strives for a better world and not oppression. How was it to photograph SIZ pieces from home, alone? It was Super! I had never done anything like this and the idea came up genuinely in order to help but then it became a challenge because I had never photographed indoors or never have been modeled for anything - I hate selfies! I learned so much about you and your language, I learned how to improve my work and this experience reiterated my purpose as an artist and how important it is to serve causes and communities that matter. What is your advice for anyone starting a career as a photographer? Do everything, try everything, leave the ego in bed when you get up, treat rejection and recognition in the same neutral way. But above all, think about your identity without the job/career. Integrity begins with the person and extends to work. What is the best advice you have ever received in your life? It was not an advice but something I read from Einstein many years ago: “We cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used when we created them.” Any plans or projects for the future? Yes, some!!! In the short term I plan to make my project "Quasi Australis" something more comprehensive when it comes to photography made with ethics and participation in sustainability. Then, within the same scope, I want to visually explore sustainability as an art form. In the long run I must write something about the labels and dismantle internalized prejudices as conscious consumers.
You can find the amazing work Eunice has been doing at quasi-australis.com and the special work she did for SIZ at siz-online.com! Go to Shop and search for the Glacier collection, then tap in the Spring products and discover the gorgeous product photos by this talented friend!
What inspires me... nature, without a doubt 41
Her work
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12 portuguese sustainab and you sh
They are eco-friendly, coo
CUSCUZ
Woolla Studio
Be For Change
Earrings and Sunglasses handmade with reused natural materials
Handmade woollen decor that are like pieces of art
Slowly made with waste fabrics and love
Roote
Teresa Gamaeiro
Sustainbable socks with beautiful details and designs
Beautiful weaving work with upcycled textiles
Joana Mota Capitão
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Contemporary jewllery handmade with premium materials and love
ble brands that we love hould know
ol and made in Portugal!
Urbana Studio
Sophie Ceramica
Wayz
Ethical and fair clothing, slowly made with love and to last
The most amazing ceramic pieces slowly made into art!
Beautiful sneakers made with vegan and eco materials
NAE
Elementum
Vanessa Barragão
Vegan shoes that are cool and conscious
Zero waste clothes and accessories. And they are multifuncional too!
Textile art that uses ecological and traditional techiques
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CHOCO-DARIEN BLAZER Fabric - Viscose Embellishments - Wooden Buttons Production/Seamstress time Stripe fees Hosting website fee per item sold Hosting website fee Marketing fees (shooting, catalog...) Promotions Compostable pacakgin, labels and tags VAT Tax (PT) SIZ Net Margin (if not sold by marketplace) Organic cotton totebag made in our studio Our team Love and Care Fight four Sustainble and Transparent Fashion
10 0,30 30,0 3,00 4,00 3,50 10,00 28,50 2,00 37,40 71,3 0,00 0,00 0,00
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total
€200,00
-------------------------------------------------You have a product handmade with love by a small team, we hope you love it as much as we do. Have a nice day!
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Choco-Darien Blazer
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Thanks This magazine wouldn’t be possible without your support Annelaure and Krisztina Interview @alandkphotography
Carolina Santiago
The beginning for a more sustainable life @carolinacsantiago
Eunice Pais Interview @pais.agency
Teresa Mineiro Is our love sustainable? @teresamineiro
Patrícia and Miguel Interview @patriciandmiguel
Marie Sztana
Our hard worker and lovely intern @sztana_eco
Thank you from the bottom of our hearts Raquel and Sofia Co-founders of SIZ
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®
SIZ - Rua das Dálias, nº4 Carrasqueira, 2970-224 Sesimbra, Portugal www.siz-online-com * siz.gral@gmail.com * 914762630/914720052