Steamboat Magazine Mountain edition 2021, vol. 43, no. 1 by Steamboat Springs Visitors' Guide

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | cov_1

KEEN INSIGHT. NEGOTIATION SKILLS. PERSONAL CARE.

Doug has been our Realtor® for the past 15 years, and we have bought and sold our properties as our family needs have grown and changed. He has listed our properties and sold them. He has assisted us in buying 2 previous properties as well as our most recent home purchase about a month ago. He is a long-time resident and knows every inch of Steamboat. He is honest, patient, efﬁcient, and is always prepared at every appointment. His clients are his top priority, and he always acts with their best interest in mind. Quite simply, Doug is the best! — J O H N & C A R O LY N

GUIDED BY MY CLIENTS’ BEST INTERESTS... ALWAYS! LEARN HOW MY 37 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE CAN WORK FOR YOU. GIVE ME A CALL AT 970.846.0661 OR VISIT MY WEBSITE BUYSTEAMBOAT.COM

56 NINTH STREET

DOUG LABOR A BR , A BRM, CEBA , CRS, E- PRO, G RI, RRP C:

9 70. 846.0 6 61

D L A B O R @ B U Y S T E A M B O AT. C O M cov_2 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

970.870.8885

B U Y S T E A M B O AT. C O M

FURNISHINGS / FULL SERVICE DESIGN STUDIO

25 Years, Your vision, Your budget * We are now a Hubbardton Forge dealer

345 Anglers Dr. â&#x20AC;¢ Sundance Plaza | OliviasHomeFurnishings.com | 970-879-1893 5,000 sq. ft. warehouse

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 1

COURTESY STEAMBOAT POWDERCATS

Contents Visitors’ Guide VG 2 Welcome Letter

VG 12 SKI Skiing and Riding Last a Lifetime

VG 13

Taking Steamboat Skiing to the Next Level

VG 14

9 Must-Ski Runs Visit Like a Local Big-mountain skier Jon Dean Ski At Ease VG 26 PLAY Make Steamboat Springs Your Winter Playground

VG 17 VG 20 VG 22

VG 27

Visit Like a Local VG 28 Backcountry explorer Billy Grimes Ride with the Pack VG 30 Dog-Friendly Steamboat VG 32 Peak Behavior VG 34 Give Back to the ‘Boat VG 35

DEPARTMENTS

10 Publisher’s Note – by Deborah Olsen 12 Letters 14 Contributors Sophie Dingle, Abby Jensen, Paul Knowles

TJ Jenkins and Leslie Roubos take a Steamboat Powdercats backcountry expedition on Buffalo Pass.

38 | Great Migrations

Documenting the incredible migration of the sandhill crane – by Jennie Lay

44 | The Backcountry Beckons

The intersection of beauty and danger – by Deborah Olsen

18 Genuine Steamboat The Evolution of the Snowcat

28 Community SheJumps helps women step out of their comfort zones and into the outdoors – by Sophie Dingle 30 History Looking back on Mocha Molly’s, 30 years later 33 Art “Four Directions” exhibit at Steamboat Art Museum 36 Making It Happen Ski Noir’s president discusses diversity in skiing

56 | Museum Marvels

60 Media Liven up cold winter nights with these media selections – by Jennie Lay

Remembering Ron Dahlquist – by Dan Greeson The stories behind the Museum of Northwest Colorado’s most fascinating items – by Paul Knowles

2 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

VG 39

Find Your Cabin in the Woods

VG 40

Visit Like a Local Yoga Instructor Samantha DeDe Virtual Steamboat Springs A ‘Boat Vocab Lesson Five Commitments to Containment

VG 42 VG 43 VG 44 VG 45

DIRECTORY VG 46 Activities VG 47 Where to Worship VG 50 Flights VG 51 Dining VG 52 Lodging VG 54 Outdoors VG 57 Real Estate VG 58 Services VG 61 Shopping VG 62 City Map VG 64 Reasons to Return

26 Environment “A Flowing Response” based on David Taylor’s quilt, “Ellen’s Pick” – by Jennie Lay

50 | An Eye for Adrenaline

VG 38 REVIVE Steamboat, and the Livin’ is Easy

64 Why Stop at the Last Page? Stay informed and entertained with online content

Powell Eastman skis through the Mount Zirkel Wilderness backcountry toward the summit of Big Agnes. Photograph by Noah Wetzel

MANGELSEN.COM STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 3

4 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

inspired

innovative

timeless

A R CHI TE C TUR E | PLANNING | INTERIORS T RU C K E E, C A • S TEAM B OAT S P R I N G S, CO • 530. 214. 8896 • W WSTEAMBOAT W. KSAAR C H. CO M 2021 | 5 MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN

Kel elwood PhotograPhy

CARING COMPREHENSIVE PROGRESSIVE

OUR PASSION EST. 1998

What makes you smile? TM

Your Smile

James WW McCreight DDS, Wendy M McCreight DDS | 970.879.4703 | www.steamboatdentistry.com 6 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 7

Mountain 2021 – Volume 43, Number 1 PUBLISHER Deborah Olsen EDITOR Dan Greeson SALES DIRECTOR John Sherwood ART DIRECTOR Melissa VanArsdale DIGITAL DIRECTOR Rachel Miller MEDIA EDITOR Jennie Lay EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Denton Turner PROOFREADER Christina Freeman CONTRIBUTORS Sophie Dingle Paul Knowles PHOTOGRAPHERS Travis Carpenter Ron Dahlquist Abby Jensen Julie McNally Jameson Midgett Noah Wetzel

Steamboat Magazine is published by Ski Town Media, Inc. The Home 2021 edition will be published in April 2021. For advertising rates and subscription information contact info@SteamboatMagazine.com. Steamboat Magazine, P.O. Box 880616, Steamboat Springs, CO 80488. Phone: 970-871-9413. Subscribe: www.SteamboatMagazine.com Single copy mailed first-class $7.50. No portion of the contents of this publication may be reproduced in any manner without the written permission of the publisher. © 2021 Ski Town Media, Inc. All rights reserved – ISSN 2164-4055. 8 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 9

Publisher’s Note

“The evidence of recession of the Fiescherhorn Glacier behind the Eiger is dramatic,” Oberg says. “Where the ice has recently left, I witnessed huge rock falls collapsing into the empty canyon that were once held back by ice. Early 20th century art and photos show these glaciers reaching all the way to the bottom of the valley where Grindelwald is. They are now probably 3-5 miles back up the canyons.”

Editorial Advisory Board Amy Charity SBT GRVL

Scott Engelman Carl’s Tavern and Truffle Pig

Sarah Floyd Steamboat Springs Winter Sports Club

Betse Grassby

Ralph Oberg | “Ice Fall” | Oil | 42 x 42

Steamboat Art Museum

Larry Mashaw The Resort Group

Marta Miskolczy Gal Friday Ed

Mike Poirot Steamboat Ski & Resort Corp.

Lisa Popovich MainStreet Steamboat

Lindsey Reznicek Yampa Valley Medical Center

Mara McManus Rhodes Soda Mountain Construction

Ulrich Salzgeber Steamboat Springs Board of Realtors

Ray Selbe Selbe Farms

Cathy Wiedemer First Pitch Communications

Telling the Story of Climate Change

rctic Fever sounds like a disease, but it’s a blessing. Just as the Yampa Valley Curse lures people back time and again to Steamboat Springs, Arctic Fever draws the afflicted back to the Far North.

It overwhelms you at the grocery store, in rush-hour traffic, or in a doctor’s waiting room. The world around you falls away and you can hear the crackling of bergy bits, smell the stench of walruses, or feel the shudder of a glacial face crashing into the sea. When a blaring horn jars you back to reality, it’s a sad moment. When I first viewed the work of artist Ralph Oberg at Steamboat Art Museum this winter, I recognized the evidence of Arctic Fever. Oberg and three friends, Matt Smith, Skip Whitcomb and Dan Young, are the featured artists in SAM’s current exhibit, which is a tribute to the rebirth of plein air painting in the West (Page 33). Oberg’s paintings of glaciers reflect the former giants’ newly diminished profiles, surrounded by stark rocks and meltwater. He has chosen deliberately to use his considerable talent to tell the story of rapid climate change. “I’ve been around long enough to see things change,” says the 70-year-old artist. “I love the glaciers’ austere beauty, but then comes the realization of how quickly they are changing.” Oberg acknowledges that he is not a scientist, but he still sees an important role to play. “If I can at least point to the beauty of these things and hint at the fact they will soon be gone, I can raise awareness of the real danger we’re in.” Oberg’s sentiment is shared by Steamboat Magazine, which joined Covering Climate Now two years ago. This global initiative, founded by the Columbia School of Journalism, The Nation and The Guardian, is committed to coverage of the defining story of our time. We are one of more than 400 participating news outlets with a combined audience approaching 2 billion people. While Steamboat Magazine may be tiny in comparison to our #coveringclimatenow partners, some of the best artists, photographers and writers in the world are focused on Northwest Colorado and Steamboat Springs, where our very economy depends on the environment. We are humble to be chosen as a conduit for their message. Enjoy,

10 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

THE

DIFFERENCE NO-WAIT ER

COURTESY SHUTTLE

PRIVATE ROOMS

LOCAL DOCTOR-OWNED

FAST FIVE-STAR SERVICE

FREE MEDICAL SCREENING

PATIENT-CENTERED

ACCEPT MAJOR INSURANCES

WE’RE HERE WITH YOU 24/7 ®

970.846.6230 • STEAMBOATEMERGENCY.COM • HWY 40 NEAR WALGREENS STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 11

DAVID HING TG

50 Years of Stories

Letters

COURTESY

Billy Kidd’s contribution to the ski industry described in Steamboat Magazine’s “A Billy Kidd Retrospective” was aptly validated by Life Magazine’s March 6, 1970, cover story. Over half a century ago, that iconic magazine recognized the spirit, determination, and dedication shown by Billy Kidd as he became America’s first gold medal winner. “On the Icy Edge of Win or Lose” captured the essence of the unparalleled psyche and physical prowess necessary to attain the pinnacle of expertise reached by Mr. Kidd. Back then, even in its relative infancy, winter sports drew top-notch ski, bobsled, ice skating, hockey and other enthusiasts from the world over. These athletes were ready and willing to immerse themselves into a lifetime of training, competition, and physical challenge that would intimidate most participants. The sport of skiing has grown into the powerhouse that it is today due in part to the decades of tutelage, devotion, and unbridled enthusiasm provided by the likes of Billy Kidd. – David Hingtgen, San Diego

Still Going Strong

Regarding the story, “A Billy Kidd Retrospective” by Eugene Buchanan, which appeared in the Ski 2020-21 Edition of Steamboat Magazine and looked back on Billy Kidd’s 50 years at the Steamboat Ski Area: Eugene, you are such a good writer – I especially like your description of my job at Steamboat! And Dan, you did a great job choosing the cover and photos! I hadn’t seen the photo of me skiing the trees in Shadows. It all brought back memories of why I love Steamboat so much and how quickly these past five short decades have passed! Thank you and the whole gang at the magazine. You should win a Pulitzer Prize, in my unbiased opinion! And my mother would be so proud! Happy Trails. – Billy Kidd, Steamboat Springs

To Send Letters to the Editor:

Email: Dan@SteamboatMagazine.com; U.S. mail: P.O. Box 880616, Steamboat Springs, CO 80488

Fine wine and exceptional guests welcome.

Please visit us in person at Central Park Plaza or online W W W. D A V I D C H A S E F U R N I T U R E . C O M

12 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

Steamboat Springs, Colorado | 970.879.5667

DREAM IT. BUILD IT. STEAMBOAT SPRINGS, COLORADO

CHOOSE NEW CONSTRUCTION. Or, BUILD YOUR OWN. 10+ NEW HOMES UNDER CONSTRUCTION IN 2021

SOLD 63 LUXURY HOMESITES SKI-IN/SKI-OUT SOCIAL CLUB

SOLD CUSTOM HOMES

900-ACRE WILDLIFE PRESERVE

PRIVATE LIVE WATER FLY-FISHING

SUZANNE SCHLICHT Senior Vice President & Director of Sales 970.846.0817 Licensed broker with Colorado Group Realty

UNDER CONTRACT EQUESTRIAN FACILITIES

CART ACCESS TO CATAMOUNT GOLF CLUB

VISIT OUR SALES CENTER 8–5 M–F | 10-4 SAT, SUN 33105 Meadow Creek Drive alpinemountainranch.com

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 13

Contributors

Remembering DeSo for Over 20 Years

Sophie Dingle

Dingle’s story, “Fearless Females” (Page 28), takes a closer look at the SheJumps organization and how it helps women and girls push their boundaries. Sophie Dingle with “When I was assigned husband, Ryan. to write the story, I realized that I had seen this group of women on the mountain before,” Dingle says. “They were the ones wearing the sparkles and tutus zooming past me! Learning more about the organization was inspiring. It’s led by strong women who are great role models for anyone. This is one of the many reasons I love writing: expanding knowledge and sharing stories.”

gentle mountain that rises above the Yampa Valley

it will always be my favorite area, over France, Utah and Cali. Groves of spaced aspens and powerful pines

the tree skiing is the best in the world and seemingly all mine. I know the stashes that this powder-hungry mountain holds, locals protect their pow making outsiders lucky if they are told. Surprisingly steep as you enter Fish Creek this is the dankest turnin’ out of any peak. Powder days bless Mt. Werner nearly every night leaving powder junkies in a state of complete delight. Ghost trees hide as you round the top, their clean white appearance will make you stop. For those who love the fluff, head for The Boat expecting to get enough. Phat airs are littered throughout the terrain making a pitch with pow completely insane! I can’t get enough of carvin’ at this place, I’d take a day here over a walk in space.

— by Justin DeSorrento February 5, 1977 - July 17, 1997

Please Visit The DeSo Foundation Web Site: www.DeSoFoundation.org 14 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

Abby Jensen

“Being a native Nebraskan, the sandhill crane migration is something that is deeply rooted in my heart,” Jensen says. “For years I would spend most of March in Kearney, Nebraska, experiencing the migration firsthand each sunrise and sunset. The experience was unique every time. While some parts were similar – the crane calls, the thunderous flap of thousands of wings, the dancing and playful nature of the families – each moment was wrapped into its own extraordinary gift.” Find Jensen’s sandhill crane photography in Jennie Lay’s story, “Great Migrations” (Page 38).

Paul Knowles

“By far one of biggest joys of working at the Museum of Northwest Colorado is showcasing our artifacts to an unsuspecting audience,” says Paul Knowles, assistant director of the Museum of Northwest Colorado in Craig and writer of the story, “Museum Marvels” (Page 56). “Most people are blown away at the extent of what’s actually sitting on display in little ol’ downtown Craig, Colorado.” “My goal is to help people realize that Northwest Colorado is one of the greatest untold stories of the entire West,” Knowles adds. “Somehow – perhaps fortunately – big-time authors and Hollywood never fully caught on.”

Rare Opportunity to Own the Premier Ski-In Ski-Out Penthouse 801 at One Steamboat Place! $6,998,000 | Fully Furnished | 4 bedrooms | 4 en-suite bathrooms & powder room | 4,163 sq ft Exceptional Features: • 1,000 sq ft custom rooftop deck showcasing expansive ski area views and featuring: 8-person hot tub, gas fire pit, built in grill, wet bar, large screen TV, outdoor heaters, herb garden, and furnished lounge area. • 3 fireplaces, professional kitchen, library, dual living areas, large dining room, media room, and more! • 35,000 sq ft of five star amenities at One Steamboat Place & Private Elevator to Penthouse 801 Contact Todd Allsberry | 970.846.4897 | tallsberry@onesteamboatplace.com | Timbers Real Estate Company

STEAMBOAT | MOUNTAIN | 15 Vail Aspen Bachelor Gulch Cabo San Lucas Jupiter Kaua‘ i Kiawah Island Maui Napa Scottsdale Snowmass Sonoma Southern California Steamboat MAGAZINE Springs Tuscany U.S. Virgin2021 Islands

SLOPESIDE LIVING

steps to the gondola

Whole Ownership $2,250,000-$7,000,000 | Private Residence Club $225,000-$495,000 When home is slopeside at the gondola, you step out of your slippers and into warm ski boots. Ownership at One Steamboat Place frees you from the traditional hassles and expenses of owning a second home so that you can start vacationing the moment you arrive. Access to the Timbers Reciprocity Program opens the doors to 14 other properties worldwide within the Timbers Collection. Whether your choice is Whole Ownership or a Deeded Fractional Interest in our Private Residence Club, you will quickly discover why so many have made One Steamboat Place their home away from home. CONTACT Todd Allsberry | 970.846.4897 | tallsberry@onesteamboatplace.com |WWW.ONESTEAMBOATPLACE.COM/HOME

Aspen Bachelor Gulch Cabo San Lucas Jupiter Kaua‘ i Kiawah Island Maui Napa Scottsdale Snowmass Sonoma Southern California Steamboat Springs Tuscany U.S. Virgin Islands Vail 16 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

STEAMBOAT OWNERSHIP

made effortless

Heavenly Peak - Residence 310 4 BD | 4 BA | 2,426 SQ FT | $3,500,000 The most "slopeside living" that you can get! Residence 310 sits just east of the sky bridge and allows you to be part of the action from the private patio. An open floor plan and large windows welcome the morning light to cascade down the mountains and illuminate this gorgeous Residence. A must see!

Mountain Vista - Residence 503 4 BD | 4.5 BA | 2,511 SQ FT | $3,295,000 Mountain Vista boasts impressive, unmatched views of Mt. Werner with a sweeping view to the Southern Yampa Valley from the living room, deck, and Master Bedroom. The home is beautifully designed with one-of-a-kind artwork throughout.

Capitol Peak - Residence 608 4 BD | 4.5 BA | 3,267 SQ FT | $4,300,000 Residence 608's kitchen is sure to inspire chefs and draw taste testers alike! The large open space in the Residence creates a sense of home where guests and family gather to share stories and form lifelong memories. A one-of-a-kind, two-story Residence with beautiful artwork. Up mountain and down valley views from the wrap around patio make this Residence uniquely stunning.

Private Residence Club 4 BD | 4 BA | APPROX. 2,500 SQ FT | $225,000-$495,000 Beautifully Furnished 1/12th and 1/8th Deeded Fractional Interests allow you to tailor ownership to your family's needs. Planned Vacation Weeks, Space Available, and Short Notice stays available. Enjoy the abundance of amenities including private spa, fitness and yoga center, gathering and wine room, pool and hot tubs, members locker room, private ski shop, owner storage, and much more. Interests come with optional access to Catamount Ranch & Club.

CONTACT Todd Allsberry | 970.846.4897 | tallsberry@onesteamboatplace.com |WWW.ONESTEAMBOATPLACE.COM/HOME

ÂŽ

Aspen Bachelor Gulch Cabo San Lucas Jupiter Kauaâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC; i Kiawah Island Maui Napa Scottsdale Snowmass Sonoma Southern California Steamboat Springs Tuscany U.S. Virgin Islands Vail STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 17

Genuine Steamboat

the evolution of the

Snowcat

h, the snowcat … the Swiss army knife of ski town

snow vehicles. Whether it’s cruising effortlessly

through deep powder to transport skiers to backcountry slopes or grooming the beloved corduroy at the Steamboat Ski Area, the snowcat has become synonymous with the ski town lifestyle. The skiers of Steamboat Springs have watched these machines transform over the decades to become the efficient powerhouses they are today – these photos document that process.

Marvin Elkins drives a snowcat, circa 1955. This snowcat was later donated to the Tread of Pioneers Museum by the Elkins family. | COURTESY TREAD OF PIONEERS MUSEUM 18 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE MAGAZINE || MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN 2021 2021 || 19 19 STEAMBOAT

Genuine Steamboat

A rare 1962 Thiokol snowcat awaits restoration in rural Routt County. Its owner, a longtime snowcat-aficionado, found the snowcat in New Mexico and arranged for its delivery to Steamboat Springs. It was originally built for the U.S. Air Force. | DEBORAH OLSEN

20 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 21

Genuine Steamboat

A Steamboat Powdercats snowcat transports skiers through a snowstorm to the slopes of Buffalo Pass. | JAMESON MIDGETT/STEAMBOAT POWDERCATS 22 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

A powdercat grooms ski runs at the top of the Pony Express lift at the Steamboat Ski Area. | JULIE MCNALLY

more @

...more than homes, we build your

See more snowcat photos at www.SteamboatMagazine.com

vision

S T R A W B E R R Y PA R K R A N C H

$18, 500,000

G AT E WAY T O S T E A M B OAT

$1 2,900,000

# 6 74 0 0 7 9

# 6 412 9 81

PRIME DEVELOPMENT OPPORTUNIT Y

$8,000,000

#3570779

Pristine 562 acres just 5 minutes to town. Ideal private retreat with significant future development value, pond & 1 mi of Soda Creek.

Historic Downtown Steamboat development opportunity for a luxury hotel, retail and/or residential condos with ski area views.

13.76 acre development site adjacent to the Wildhorse gondola in the master planned community. Prime site with RR-1 zoning.

PAM VANATTA 970.291.8100

JAMES HOWSER 970.846.4292

DAVID BALDINGER JR 970.846.2560

L A K E A G N E S E S TAT E . C O M

STUNNING SANCTUARY HOME

L U X U R Y AT O N E S T E A M B O AT P L A C E

$3, 595,000

$3, 250,000

$2,795,000

#2066953

# 74 4 7 3 9 9

# 4 614 8 8 8

Lake Agnes masterpiece spanning 7,500+SF on 35 acres with custom craftsmanship, 3-car garage, over the water views and private dock.

Amazing views from this 4 BD, 4 BA mountain modern home in the Sanctuary. Main-level master and fully automated home systems.

Full ownership and beautifully furnished 4 BD condo. Ski-in/out, nice open floorplan, Emerald Mountain views, full-service luxury amenities.

CAM BOY D 970.846.8100

R EN M ARTYN 970.846.3118

PAM VANATTA 970.291.8100

L I N C O L N AV E N U E C O M M E R C I A L

B E S T D E A L I N C ATA M O U N T R A N C H

U R B A N S T R E E T S T E A M B O AT. C O M

$1,479,000

$1, 395,000

FROM

# 8 2 9 2 74 3

#5789580

$1, 325,000

# 3 7 2 1 7 11

One of Steamboat’s beautiful historic buildings. 4,640 sf of commercial space + parking lot with great visibility right on Lincoln. Fully leased.

6.48 acre homesite in the coveted Catamount Ranch. Just minutes to skiing and downtown with a Catamount membership included.

Escape to the mountains in urban-modern style. Located at the base of the mountain, three triplex units will be available Fall 2021.

M ARC SM ALL 970.846.8815

DAR LINDA BALDINGER 970.846.7192

CINDY M ACGR AY 970.846.0342

S T E A M B O AT S I R . C O M

| 9 70 . 879. 810 0

24 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

L O C A L LY O W N E D & O P E R AT E D L O C A L RO O T S – GL OBA L R E ACH

L U X U R Y R E T R E AT FA L C O N H E A D N O R T H

L U X U R Y R E T R E AT FA L C O N H E A D S O U T H

A S P E N G L E N AT G R O U S E C R E E K

$5,600,000

$5,495,000

$3,985,000

# 7 7013 6 7

# 619 012 8

# 3607588

This 5+BD, 8 BA luxury home is exceptionally well-designed with extraordinary 3 story rock wall, two gourmet kitchens & panoramic views.

Less than a block from the ski area this turn-key residence has panoramic views 5+BD, 8 BA and an exceptionally well-designed floorplan.

Premium privacy and towering Aspens create a stunning setting on 41 acres. Luxury 5 BD log home has Ski Area views and guest apartment.

DAR LINDA BALDINGER 970.846.7192

PAM VANATTA 970.291.8100

R U N N I N G B E A R R E T R E AT. C O M

E U R O P E A N S T Y L E AT D A K O TA R I D G E

YA M PA R I V E R G E M

$2, 395,000

$2,195,000

$2,150,000

#9340892

# 9 2 8 2 416

#5255966

Close to the ski mtn with unobstructed views, this turn-key 5 BD home has vaulted ceilings, updated flooring, open layout and views.

Stunning Steamboat Ski Area views from this luxurious home in Dakota Ridge. Elegant and timeless design on a private, wooded lot.

Amazing river front property with two homes, 2 car garage, green house on 37 acres in South Routt with water rights. Gold medal flyfishing.

CAM BOY D 970.846.8100

DAVID BALDINGER JR 970.846.2560

JAMES HOWSER 970.846.4292

O N LY 1 L E F T AT T H E AV I AT O R L O F T S

M O U N TA I N A R E A B U I L D I N G S I T E

COMING SOON IN SUNLIGHT

$785,000

$679,000

# 5 6 2 5 74 1

#8083659

C A L L F O R D E TA I L S

Customizable live/work space to fit your specific needs. 1,494 SF on level one, 1,319 SF on level 2 plus a 158 SF deck. Spring 2021

Excellent home site with amazing ski area views in the coveted Montview Park. Caretaker unit allowed in the heart of the mountain area.

The final phase of Sunlight! Highly desirable neighborhood close to downtown Steamboat. Facebook.com/SunlightNeighborhood

LISA OLSON 970.846.0713

DAVID BALDINGER JR 970.846.2560

CINDY M ACGR AY 970.846.0342

9 70 . 879. 810 0 | S T E A M B O A T S I R . C O M STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 25

Environment

CHEERS

EXPERIENCE STEAMBOAT WHISKEY COMPANY COCKTAILS, BOTTLE SALES & TASTINGS Have You Tried Our New Food Menu? We Have Dessert!

OPEN Weekdays 3PM Weekends 12PM

www.SteamboatWhiskeyCo.com 970-846-3534 26 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

DEBORAH OLSEN

VISIT US 1103 Lincoln Ave k DOWNTOWN STEAMBOAT

A polar bear looks beneath the sea, undoubtedly in search of a seal, in the Svalbard Archipelago in the Norwegian Arctic.

A Flowing Response (from Our Changing Climate to David’s Melting Icicle) | BY JENNIE LAY This piece is based on David Taylor’s quilt, “Ellen’s Pick,” and was one of the entries in Steamboat Magazine and Steamboat Art Museum’s 2020 Ekphrasis writing contest.

“Ice never lies.” In the bits, trapped bubbles whisper ancient secrets from this bitter Earth. Listen carefully, and you’ll hear the rangy stories. Sweet mysteries from Viking explorers and ambitious insults from industrial smokestacks. Together, they rise in a hum of pop, crackle and whoosh. In the rolling bergs, 10,000 years of fossilized snowflakes and coal-soaked air churn up earth and rock and Mother Nature’s most impressive architecture. Opacity and clarity. Fluidity and brittleness. All the textures. Infinite sparkle.

Eyes on the vast ice sheet drop a mortal to tears.

Greenland unveils the beauty and the beast. Frozen water locks in time and every imaginable hue of grue – that ill-defined umami of colors that floats somewhere between green and blue. Plus all the shades of gray. The ice won’t fib. There is too much water in it now. Crystals melt, rushing from the depths releasing gases that will plague us. In equatorial places like Bangladesh and Kiribati, they already do.

Unleashed from the ice, water gives life, and takes it away.

Rubies glitter from the gneiss. A polar bear roams the horizon. Whales rise gently to remind us of their reign. Fires rage. Derechos flatten. Typhoons flood. Drought transforms jungle to desert.

Fate lies bare naked in the ice. Her fragility is our truth.

David Taylor | “Ellen’s Pick” | quilt | 14 x 106

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 27

COURTESY SHEJUMPS/DAVE REILLY

Community

Fearless Females

| BY SOPHIE DINGLE

Women gather at a fly fishing clinic, which would go on to become the foundation for SheJumps Steamboat Springs.

The SheJumps program fosters courage and a love of the outdoors among women

n a bright, cold winter day, shrieks of joy could be heard echoing down the trails of Mount Werner. Flashes of color flew past as, one by one, a group of neon-clad skiers raced down the run and came to a halt at the bottom, sending an impressive amount of powder shimmering into the air. This particular group of women – laughing, colorful and immersed in each other – was spending the day skiing together as part of an event for the SheJumps organization.

SheJumps is a nationwide nonprofit serving girls 6-andup and women 18 and older. Its offerings range from outdoor education to youth initiatives with the mission to increase female participation in outdoor activities. Three friends – Lynsey Dyer, Vanessa Pierce and Claire Smallwood – founded SheJumps around the idea that, “If she can do it, so can I.” In July 2007, Pierce organized SheJumps’ first event: a 14-woman climb of the Grand Teton, the largest mountain in Grand Teton National Park. At the time, this was the largest women’s-only group to carry out an expedition like this. Over a decade later, SheJumps has spread to cities and towns across the U.S., using local ambassadors to help plan events and spread the word. Steamboat Springs’ most recent ambassador, Britni Johnson, became involved with the program several years ago when a friend of hers, Laraine Martin, was the ambassador. Martin initially brought SheJumps to Steamboat, creating events for local women such as ski days, fly fishing clinics, collaborations with yoga studios and education-based programs such as a mountain-bike tuning clinic. All of the programs are geared specifically towards women with the intent to teach them new skills or hobbies and help them find confidence within their passions. “One thing that defines my identity now is the recreational activities that I’ve picked up in adult life,” Johnson says. “It can be 28 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

intimidating to dive into a new passion, but it’s important to build up mental and emotional confidence and to find your place in the space where you want to be. Building skill sets carries over into many different aspects of life, and being able to feel strong and competent as a female allows you to empower the next generation.” Nationally, each branch of SheJumps is operated differently and geared toward different demographics. Johnson says the Steamboat chapter serves to provide a community gathering space, mostly of adult women aged 18-55, to engage with each other in the outdoors. Alice Tesar was asked to guide a fly-fishing clinic for SheJumps in 2017, and she has been involved with the organization ever since. “Personally, having focused and strong women to look up to and learn from has been critical in the development of all my outdoor technical skills,” Tesar explains. “But having those hard skills from early on in my life has given me the voice to say what I need in the workplace and in my relationships. Speaking up for myself came from being in critical backcountry situations where decisions for a team had to be made.” The skills that girls and women learn through outdoor education courses and activities will serve them well later on, Tesar says. “Women-led activities for young girls teach self-advocacy and self-reliance, which will allow them to take on leadership roles. From school council to ski patrol to the board room, we need more women leaders, and SheJumps, from my perspective, is making the tools to get there more accessible.” After nearly a decade of expansion, the organization is undergoing several changes, designed to make the nonprofit stronger, even more accessible and even more inclusive. “There has been a natural pause in events right now, due to COVID,” Johnson says, “When things start up again, SheJumps will be stronger and more relevant than ever.”

keep it on the

TOASTY side

REXSFAMILY.COM

steamboat springs, colorado STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 29

History Molly and Von Wilson stand beside Goose, the draft horse they used to deliver Mocha Molly’s coffee around Steamboat Springs.

Molly Wilson

Von Wilson unloads bags of coffee beans.

Mocha Molly’s sign on the Lincoln Avenue sidewalk was a well-known sight.

Von Wilson with Mocha Molly’s coffee roaster, the first roaster in Steamboat Springs

Von and Molly’s son, Wyatt, being weighed on a Mocha Molly’s coffee scale

Mocha Memories

ebruary 2021 marks the 30th anniversary of the opening of Mocha Molly’s Coffee Saloon and Bluegrass Bakery, once located at 635 Lincoln Ave. in Steamboat Springs. Though it closed in 2006, the shop still holds a special place in the memories of Steamboat locals, who lovingly referred to it as “Mocha’s.” Steamboat Magazine asked Von and Molly Wilson, the original owners of Mocha Molly’s, to share their experiences there.

Steamboat Magazine: What was the opening like at Mocha Molly’s? How was it received by the Steamboat community? Molly Wilson: The day it opened – and we had been working like dogs for months to get it open – was the day I got airlifted out of Steamboat with a horrible virus. I had double pneumonia. It was a mess, but Von got it running. Von Wilson: We were brand new to town. People from Soda Creek cared for our kids for weeks during that time. This community rallied and bought coffee, just knowing they were helping our family out. MW: I’ve been in my bonus round ever since then. SM: What was Steamboat like back then? VW: Sort of a slow, sleepy little town. Dead during mud seasons. We got in trouble a lot from the city – they were new at regulating anything, but we were there blowing all this smoke and coffee-smell downtown. “Better to ask for forgiveness than permission” was sort of our motto. 30 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

| PHOTOS COURTESY MOLLY AND VON WILSON

MW: We had the first coffee roaster in town for sure, and the first espresso bar. Back then, no one knew how to make a cappuccino or a mocha, so we were training a bunch at the beginning of every season. People weren’t prepared to pay a dollar when you could buy a cup for 49 cents across the street, so we were constantly educating people on why it was worth it. SM: What was the group who worked there like? MW: We were a big, wide group of coffee lovers. Our core group of friends today come from that era. Any time we needed something done they would walk through the door and help out, whether it was with work or childcare. We made our own community at Mocha Molly’s and found our place here. SM: What do you think made Mocha Molly’s so special to the people of Steamboat? VW: First and foremost, I think it was community. Especially this year, everyone is craving community. It was a time when you had real down-home people of every age standing in line. MW: There was a big table in the front where a bunch of men would gather, and they called it the “Round Table.” They solved the world’s problems there from both sides of the aisle. We all need the connection of a group of people. I have dreams of starting a pop-up again because people ask about it constantly and get really excited about it.

more @

Read the full interview and get the Mocha Molly’s Molasses Cookie recipe on www.SteamboatMagazine.com

Does knee pain due to a cartilage injury have you

SIDELINED?

You may be eligible to participate in a research study of the investigational product NOVOCARTÂŽ 3D, a biologic/device combination product that uses your own cartilage cells and is designed to restore damaged knee cartilage. Learn more about knee cartilage injuries and treatment options available to help regenerate cartilage at www.dralexmeininger.com or call 844-395-4590.

Steamboat Springs Area Alexander K. Meininger, MD 940 Central Park Drive, Suite 190 Steamboat Springs, CO 80487

Aesculap Biologics, LLC - a B. Braun company | 1-800-258-1946 | www.aesculapbiologics.com STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 31

I NT ER I OR D ES IG N, HOME FURNISHINGS, CLOTHING BOUTIQUE

9 7 0 . 8 7 9 . 8 3 7 7 • 4 0 2 l i n c o l n av e • s t e a m b o a t s p r i n g s , c o 32 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

Art

Matt Smith | “Sierra Jewel” | Oil | 40 x 36

Fellow Travelers

“Painting outdoors is like being paid to eat ice cream.” – Robert Lougheed

alking through Steamboat Art Museum’s current exhibit is like taking an armchair tour of the American West. Pristine wilderness, gurgling streams – yes, in your imagination you may hear them – sculpted rocks, windblown trees, sharply towering mountains: you feel as if you have escaped the urban environs for a cross-country hike.

Indeed, artists Ralph Oberg, Matt Smith, Skip Whitcomb and Dan Young have been doing just that for 30 years. Three Coloradans and their friend “from away” (Arizona) camp together, explore together and paint together. In the process, they have given birth to the modern plein air movement and become four of the most accomplished Western artists in America today. Their current exhibit, “Four Directions STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 33

Art Ralph Oberg | “The Many Faces of Water” | Oil | 32 x 32

Dan Young | “Study for Moonlight at Eleven Six” | Oil | 9 x10

Skip Whitcomb | “Spring Snow” | Oil | 10 x 8

“... we didn’t know we were broke, eating chili – no beans – out

In the end, it’s that friendship that is the story – Common Paths: Oberg, Smith, Whitcomb, here. Each one of the four artists has developed his Young,” has received more national attention of a can, pooling our own style, his own audience and his own viewpoints, than any other exhibit in SAM’s short but money to buy a few but at the same time, they lean on one another, notable history. The four artists themselves beers, and we would egg each other on, and serve as each other’s can hardly believe their good fortune. sounding board. “I can remember when we had an old literally paint from “You have fellow travelers who stand for the pickup truck with a barebones camper on same thing, and it’s really important, especially the back and we didn’t have two cents to rub sunrise to sunset,” as we get older. It becomes intensely personal,” together, but we were having so much fun, says Matt Smith. Whitcomb explains. “You’re among friends and we didn’t know we were broke, eating chili – there’s no pretense.” no beans – out of a can, pooling our money to buy a few beers, and we would literally paint from sunrise to The lack of pretense, the integrity of their art and the depth sunset,” says Matt Smith. “Failure was a close friend to me in of their ties to one another is evident in the collection of their those years.” work now on display at Steamboat Art Museum. You will not only see the West through Oberg, Smith, Whitcomb and Young’s “Any time you’re experimenting, there’s a chance of failure,” eyes, you will want to grab your backpack and join them on their says fellow artist Skip Whitcomb. next adventure. “It’s not about the success or failure, it’s about being out there and putting this stuff down, taking chances, of pushing Steamboat Art Museum is open in compliance with Routt County what you’re all about. We all reinforce each other on that. It’s a COVID protocols. Hours are Tuesday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-5 p.m. valuable friendship.” For information, visit www.SteamboatArtMuseum.org. 34 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

N E W S TAT E - O F - T H E - A R T C L I N I C , I M AG I N G A N D S U R G E RY C E N T E R

We are here to keep

you out there

Making It Happen

COURTESY QUINCY SHANNON

the Slippers-N-Sliders, who’ve been around since the ‘70s. As I became an adult, I realized a lot of my friends in my demographic weren’t going to the mountain. I tried to invite more people and afterward they would be like, “Q, this is really dope, can we go again next week?” Growing up, I was always excited about the big yearly event, the National Brotherhood of Skiers summit – it made the mountains a safe place for me. Those events were the only kind in the mountains where I’d see other people who looked like me. People would come up and ask us what was going on, and we’d just tell them, “Family reunion, don’t worry about it.”

Quincy Shannon, president of Ski Noir, skis in Steamboat Springs.

Diversity in Skiing

A conversation with Quincy Shannon, president of Ski Noir and member of the National Brotherhood of Skiers Steamboat Magazine: What is Ski Noir, and how did it get started? Quincy Shannon: Ski Noir is a Black ski club that I formed with a group of five other creatives. We were meeting in my living room and we asked the question, “What would it mean to start an organization that cultivates a social experience in the mountains even for people who don’t normally give a damn about skiing?” The generation who started groups like the National Brotherhood of Skiers is dying out, and we saw the next generation hasn’t taken that up, so we asked, “What are ways we can cultivate that change?” SM: What does Ski Noir look like these days? What goals does the group have moving forward? QS: On our books currently, we have 47 members. We have members in their 50s, 60s and 70s, and one that’s 82. So we’re able to have the wisdom of what the older members have done, while also saying we have ideas from the younger members that have never been tried before. The goal is creating a club that is social for young professionals, while also being able to give back to the community and help Black kids get into skiing. It’s about wanting my daughter to, when she’s 11, be able to say, “I have great memories of going to the 36 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

mountains with my dad,” as opposed to being scared and not knowing what it’s like up there. We’re hoping that others will understand the need for this. SM: Have you seen much change in the sport of skiing during your lifetime in terms of diversity? What do you think is needed to gain more diversity in the sport? QS: I haven’t seen much change. I’m 35, and it’s still very much a white sport. A big piece is the socioeconomics attached to it, so if you don’t make enough money you can’t participate. The cost is a hurdle and it won’t go away anytime soon – it’s not a cheap sport. We’re hoping to create a relationship with a company or group so we can provide ski gear, clothing and transportation to kids who can’t afford it. I’m a teacher, and if a student’s not doing well in school but wants to go ski on the weekend, this would give us another resource to say, “I need you to bring that grade up,” or, “I need you to not get into fights at school” so they can actually go ski. SM: What does your skiing background look like? When did you start? QS: I’ve been skiing all my life. My mother skied with the Eskimo Ski Club growing up and was part of a Black ski club called

SM: What are some of your favorite memories so far with Ski Noir? QS: On the way up to the Black Ski Summit that was in Steamboat a couple of years ago, there was a big avalanche and we got caught in traffic on I-70. We had just formed Ski Noir that season and we weren’t part of the NBS yet – still just getting our feet wet. We got caught there for three or four hours, four cars full of members who all knew each other. One person turned the music on, another car had brought a grill they fired up, and we had a party on I-70. We made the best of the situation. People around us were saying they were so glad they were stuck with us, because otherwise they would have been bored out of their minds. SM: What are your favorite aspects of skiing? QS: I talk with friends all the time who are like, “I don’t get it.” My love of skiing fits into two areas: first, the views are so peaceful for my spirit. The way the light hits the snow on the trees, it makes me at peace with myself, grounded, thankful. But there’s also the personal athletic perseverance aspect. No matter how many people you ski with, ultimately it’s you who has to get yourself down the hill – as social it is, you have to push yourself to get better and progress. I love skiing for that, because it’s a social yet isolated experience. There’s always a next level in terms of ways to get down the mountain. Learn more about the National Brotherhood of Skiers at www.NBS.org and about Ski Noir at www.facebook.com/SNOIR5280/.

4PM-CLOSE H A P P Y H O U R 4 - 5 :3 0 P M OPEN

I TA L I A N H O T S P O T

S M A L L P L AT E S , A N T I PA S T I , P I Z Z A , PA S TA ,

D E C A D E N T D E S S E R T S , C R A F T C O C K TA I L S , WINE LIST, KIDS MENU

521

L I N C O L N AV E .

MAMBOS.COM

9 7 0 .8 7 0 .0 5 0 0

4PM-CLOSE H A P P Y H O U R 4 - 5 :3 0 P M OPEN

A K I S S O F L AT I N

TA PA S , E N T R E E S , C R A F T C O C K TA I L S ,

WINE LIST, KIDS MENU

818

L I N C O L N AV E .

B E S A M E S T E A M B O AT . C O M

9 7 0 .7 6 1 .2 5 6 1

OPEN

7 :3 0 A M - C L O S E

LOCAL, ORGANIC

B R E A K FA S T

S U S TA I N A B L E F O O D

LUNCH, ESPRESSO BAR,

C R A F T C O C K TA I L S , O - P R O O F C O C K TA I L S , WINE LIST, SOFT SERVE ICE CREAM, KIDS MENU

207 9TH

ST.

YA M PAVA L L E Y K I T C H E N . C O M

9 7 0 .8 7 5 .3 9 8 9

FIND US ON:

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 37

Migrations GREAT

Top off your bucket list with a late-winter road trip to central Nebraska | STORY BY JENNIE LAY PHOTOGRAPHY BY ABBY JENSEN

veryone is bound to recall the moment when their 2020 trajectory went sideways. My own pandemic misadventures started in the midst of a road trip to Nebraska.

On one of the last March days when Steamboat was still wide open for business, my husband and I headed out of town, winding north through the Snowy Range before shooting east through Wyoming’s growing crop of wind turbines. Minutes after speeding across the Nebraska state line, the first of many ominous Friday the 13th calls rang through: our intended destination was closing for coronavirus precautions – immediately. 38 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

Some spicy marital discourse ensued on the shoulder of I-80. We turned the truck around. Twice. This is for the birds, he grumbled. Yes, for the birds, I pleaded. Passion prevailed. Onward, to the east. Curiosity had lured two novice birders toward an annual spectacle when the sandhill crane migration converges on the Platte River near Kearney, Nebraska. It’s a tranquil town born of a fort and a railroad junction, and it’s best known as the “Sandhill Crane Capital of the World.” We’d spent a decade admiring the Yampa Valley’s greater sandhill cranes. We counted ourselves among the enthusiastic

Sandhill cranes soar over the North Platte River at sunset in Kearney, Nebraska.

ranks of Routt County’s conservation-fueled “craniacs” who organize the Yampa Valley Crane Festival at Bud Werner Library each Labor Day weekend. Now we were anxious to witness central Nebraska’s notorious air show, when more than 600,000 of these prehistoric, crimson-headed birds flock in for cornfield feasts and respite in the central Nebraska wetlands. Nebraska gets mostly lesser sandhill cranes, typically about 5 inches smaller than the Steamboat variety. But their shorter stature is overcompensated by incomparable numbers. The cranes’ convergence on the Platte River includes more than 80% of the world population of these ancient omnivorous birds as they pause to fatten up and perform intricate courtship dances en route to breeding grounds in Canada, Alaska and Siberia. Their gluttony in Nebraska will add 20% to their body weight. Our personal migration to watch this avian phenomenon was finally happening in 2020 because I’d been invited to visit

the nonprofit Crane Trust, which protects critical habitat on the Big Bend stretch of the Platte ecosystem for sandhill cranes, endangered whooping cranes and other migratory birds. The trust’s emergency closure spurred us to whip up a D.I.Y. crane tracking expedition as we continued traveling east. It also gave us the unexpected blessing of time to explore the charms of a heartland community. After scoring the coziest lodging at an impeccably restored 1888 home, we had the good fortune of securing spots on two different riverside blinds at the Audubon Society’s Rowe Sanctuary – the very last days blinds would be occupied as COVID-19 brought crane-watching season to a halt. We’d been forewarned: any opportunity for proximity in a blind is essential to experiencing this great migration. It is indeed astounding to be camouflaged inside a prime location while thousands of cranes congregate before your eyes. STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 39

Crane calling is a signature behavior during the birdsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; great migration in Nebraska.

40 || ONLINE ONLINE AT AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM 40

who grew up along the Missouri River, about three hours away The brick streets of old town Kearney provided an from Kearney. Sandhill cranes didn’t visit her part of the state, atmospheric respite while we scoured maps and figured out and she didn’t have her first crane encounter until she was in how best to spend a few days chasing cranes. We quickly found her early 40s. But after making her first pilgrimage for the spring community in the embrace of Kitt’s Kitchen and Coffee, a crane migration, it became her annual habit to camp out at the restored 1920s warehouse for Pierce Hide and Produce Co. that Fort Kearney campground for weeks of sunrises and sunsets, now procures perfect coffee, chai and croissants. In addition, it sharing blinds with biologists and scouring the landscape for was instantly clear that the café serves as an egalitarian living dancing cranes feasting on the grassland bounty. room for university students, farmers and one gregarious “It’s magical every time. It’s different every time,” she says. pharmaceutical rep who does regular business with a team of “One of the reasons I used to stay so long was waiting for the Steamboat doctors. Thanks to generously shared local insights, roosting when the sun comes up – the perfect combination we were bundled in ski gear and headed down the road to a free of temperature and winds to get them dancing in the river at public viewing deck where we saw more than 100,000 cranes sunrise, that beautiful light.” soar in to roost under an eternal prairie sunset. This is the instant I succumbed to being a With snow on the ground, we layered up to “It’s magical every time. birder. The cranes made the icy air electric. meet the birds at sunrise with their boisterous Their majesty was irresistible. morning calls and rapturous lift-offs, then again It’s different every time,” Birding is about exploring the abundant at sunset as the birds flocked in to hunker in Abby Jensen says. wonder of so many feathered species, but river shallows for the night. By dark, there were witnessing boisterous, 4-foot-tall sandhill cranes so many birds with long beaks tucked into their flock in by the tens of thousands is a supremely gratifying hook rusty-colored, mud-painted feathers that their overnight masses for a naturalist hobby that typically requires infinite patience. mimicked islands in the Platte. Rocky Mountain alpenglow is stunning. But a prairie sunset Birdwatching is ultimately about quietly planting yourself in is a formidable contender, especially when that interminable nature, being still in the landscape, listening for screeches and blaze includes waves of stately sandhill cranes rolling off the warbles, studying the breeze and starting to comprehend how all horizon, entertaining you with awkward landings in the river at those pieces fit together as a safe haven for landing, nesting and your toes. flight. Watching sandhill cranes provided a shortcut to surefire Put a long winter drive to Nebraska on your must-do success on all fronts. Our inspiration to travel to Kearney was lit by Abby Jensen, a adventure list. It’s a classic and surprisingly accessible American Steamboat local who is a professional wildlife photographer and safari, and spring’s sandhill crane migration is undoubtedly part owner of Pine Moon Fine Art. Jensen is a native Nebraskan spectacular enough to rival any other great migrations on Earth.

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 41

If you go Drive | Kearney, Nebraska is a 7.5-hour drive from Steamboat. Once you get there, you’ll need a car for your crane safari anyways. Sleep | There are many perfectly decent chain hotels near the highway that make pre-dawn and late-returning crane viewing convenient. If history and atmosphere are your gig, a room at the 1888 Heritage House with its most convivial hosts is highly recommended (www.airbnb.com/rooms/15256246). Watch cranes | Reserve a spot in a blind at Rowe Sanctuary (rowe.audubon.org) or the Crane Trust (www.cranetrust.org). Even better, do it at least twice – one sunrise and one sunset, because they are distinctly different experiences and you’ll be accompanied by a diehard crane expert. Head out early or late onto the raised walkway at the Plautz Viewing Platform near Gibbon (www.cpnrd.org/crane-viewing-sites) or the Fort Kearney bridges which cross the Platte River (www.outdoornebraska.gov/fortkearny). Eat | Steak in the bar at the Alley Rose (www.alleyrose.com). Pizza at Thunderhead Brewing (www.thunderheadbrewing.com). Authentic Thai at Suwanee (www.suwanneekearney.com). Drink | Coffee at Kitt’s (www.kittskitchen.com). Beer at McCue’s Nebraska Taproom, where it’s all about cool craft beer, cider and kombucha brewed all over the Cornhusker State. (www.mccuesnebraskataproom.com) Visit | Stroll through 200 impeccable (and entertaining!) historic cars at Kearney’s Classic Car Collection (www.classiccarcollection.org). Step back in time at the Frank Museum, a stately 1886 home on the National Register of Historic Places that was one of the first houses west of the Missouri River to be wired for electricity and featured steam radiators and indoor plumbing before it became the Nebraska State Tuberculosis Hospital (www.unk.edu/offices/frankhouse).

A sandhill crane cradles the early morning nearly-full moon near Kearney, Nebraska.

Cheer | Catch a game at Kearney’s ice arena, home to the Tri-City Storm, a Tier I junior hockey team in the United States Hockey League. This the one-time team of former hockey pro, Steamboat native and current Steamboat Youth Hockey Association Director Ryan Dingle.

more @

Learn more about local crane conservation, and the new Yampa Valley crane cam, at www.SteamboatMagazine.com

STEAMBOAT’S FAVORITE GALLERY PINE MOON FINE ART is a fine art gallery located in beautiful downtown Steamboat Springs. We offer a broad range of artwork in a variety of media by local artists. Our work is fresh and contemporary, and ranges from western landscapes to rich abstracts that appeal to a wide spectrum of styles and tastes. Visit us downtown or browse our new online store » www.pinemoonfineart.com/store

117 9th Street Steamboat Springs CO 80487 970-879-2787 WWW.PINEMOONFINEART.COM

42 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

@pinemoonfineart

MENUS

HAND-CUT STEAKS

MOUNTAIN CERTIFIED SOCIAL DINING

JET-FRESH SEAFOOD

1 1 1 0 YA M P A S T. S T E A M B O AT S P R I N G S , C O 8 0 4 8 7 P R I M R O S E S T E A M B O AT. C O M â&#x20AC;¢ 9 7 0 .7 6 1 . 2 8 6 0 STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 43

NOAH WETZEL

Kelly Northcutt snowboards through deep powder in the Buffalo Pass backcountry.

44 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

The

Backcountry Beckons At the intersection of beauty and danger

| BY DEBORAH OLSEN

Serenity and peril

lie in the wilderness that borders Steamboat Springs. Enticed by the solitude, wildness, pristine snow, awe-inspiring views, wildlife and fresh air, people discover the backcountry anew each winter. Since the onset of COVID, interest in this winter wonderland has skyrocketed.

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 45

Abby Jensen Photography

“The feeling of fresh powder, getting away with people you’ve chosen to go with, a deep, fresh, untracked field of snow – those are my favorite days,” says local science/math teacher Mindy Mulliken, who has been backcountry skiing for 20-plus years. The opportunity for people to test themselves in the face of danger is also part of the backcountry’s allure. Rapidly changing weather, sudden and violent avalanches, unknown terrain, and the possibility of bodily injury far from help are among the risks backcountry users must contemplate. Managing those risks and still enjoying the experience is the key to a successful backcountry outing. How do you manage that as a newcomer to the wilderness? Is it even possible? Absolutely. “Take small bites, test the water, move into the sport with caution, and leave a little margin for error,” advises Eric Deering, avalanche instructor and CEO of Steamboat Powdercats, which provides both motorized and nonmotorized backcountry tours on Buffalo Pass. “Focus on patience,” Mulliken says. “Backcountry skiing is not an instant gratification sport. It takes time, effort, education and keeping up with it. But the harder you work for something, the bigger the reward.”

–Albert Einstein Images available for purchase

Gallery: Pine Moon Fine Art 117 9th St., Steamboat Springs, Colorado 970-879-2787 • www.jensen-photography.com

46 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

COURTESY MINDY MULLIKEN

Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better.

Madeleine Mulliken skins up Hahns Peak.

STEAMBOAT STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE MAGAZINE || MOUNTAIN MOUNTAIN2021 2021 || 47 47

1. Gear

Like any sport, backcountry skiing is going to require a few toys. Fortunately, Steamboat Springs has a host of ski shops with experts to guide you through the process of selecting skis, poles, boots, bindings and skins. The newest and most technologically advanced is AT (Alpine Touring) gear, which is readily available to rent or buy. Next you will need the requisite safety gear, which at a minimum includes a shovel, probe, map, first aid kit, emergency blanket, water, food and a fix-it kit. “You’ll also need to create a tour plan that takes into account the overall objective of your trip, how long your trip will be, maps of the area, the route you wish to travel and the snow conditions,” says Kent Vertrees of Steamboat Powdercats. “Also, tell others where you are going so if you don’t come back at a certain time, they can help initiate a rescue if needed.”

2. Education

“Sometimes people think you get the gear, you’re good to go,” Mulliken says. “Gear is not your ticket. Take a class.” Ski Haus, Colorado Mountain College and Steamboat Powdercats all offer classes in avalanche safety. Colorado Avalanche Information Center is the go-to resource for both education and updates on conditions. Take your equipment out to a meadow or flat snowfield and practice until using your probe, beacon and shovel are second nature, Mulliken says.

Powdercats guide Patrick Meyer leads skiers through the Buffalo Pass backcountry.

48 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

COURTESY STEAMBOAT POWDERCATS

3. Get the forecast

As anyone who has spent any time in Colorado knows, the weather changes rapidly and dramatically. Dress in layers. No matter how sunny it is when you leave home, bring your goggles, weatherproof outer layer, mitts and warm socks. No matter how cloudy it is, bring your sunscreen. More important than the weather itself is its impact on the terrain. Avalanches happen unexpectedly, and wind, snow and changing temperatures often trigger them. Mulliken suggests that all backcountry users should have the CAIC app on their phones.

4. Choose your partners

The best way to learn about the backcountry is to go with someone who knows it. Find a mentor; backcountry enthusiasts are often happy to share their experience with you, especially if you offer to bring lunch, buy the gas or provide the après-tour beer. Steamboat Powdercats

offers guided non-motorized backcountry ski tours tailored to participants’ individual skill levels. All backcountry skiers should have intermediate, if not advanced, skill levels. Backcountry skiing is a great choice for families, provided the parents have the necessary experience. “Especially if you’re making wise decisions, skiing with family and friends is one of the best activities,” Vertrees says.

5. Plan your tour

Beginners have a couple of good options for first-time backcountry adventures. One is Bruce’s Trail on Rabbit Ears Pass. It is well-marked, near the highway and is groomed in early season. Its gentle rolling terrain through the forest is an ideal first step. Another possibility is Emerald Mountain, adjacent to Howelsen Hill. Park at the Blackmere Trailhead or at the rodeo grounds to access this trail network. The next step could be Bear Tree Ridge, accessible from Dry Lake Campground on Buffalo Pass. “It’s nice, user-friendly, nonmotorized terrain with low-angle trees,” Vertrees says. It is located on the north side of County Road 38, east of Dry Lake Campground. Follow the trail that runs parallel to the campground and veer right up the hill to the ridge. It is not well-marked. Another option is Walton Peak, just off U.S. 40. It is marked with blue posts and offers a wide open shot down the face of the peak at the end of the climb. Beware, however – it slid in the recent past. Parking on Buffalo Pass, Rabbit Ears and in North Routt County is limited. Plan to arrive early. If no parking is available, resist the attempt to ditch the car and ski anyway. You will be

ticketed, if not towed. Instead, have a back-up plan. Go shopping or get a cup of coffee and come back later in the day.

6. Stay safe

Routt County does not have the reputation for avalanches that other areas of the Rocky Mountains have. But that does not mean they do not occur. If anything, the low angles of local backcountry terrain have a tendency to lure skiers into lowering their guard. Check the CAIC reports, be prepared to change plans accordingly and cross open snowfields one at a time. Do not go into the backcountry alone; always let someone know where you are going to be. In short, know before you go. Steamboat Springs is ideally situated for backcountry exploration, with public lands to the north and east of the city. A one-day winter tour in this spectacular wilderness will result in a lifetime of memories.

B a c kc o u n t r y

resources

Colorado Avalanche Information Center – www.avalanche.state.co.us Steamboat Springs Chamber – www.steamboatchamber.com/know-before-you-go/ Routt Powder Riders – www.routtpowderriders.com Medicine Bow/Routt National Forest – www.fs.usda.gov/mbr National Weather Service – forecast.weather.gov/

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 49

Adrena An Eye for

Remembering Ron Dahlquist | STORY BY DAN GREESON PHOTOS BY RON DAHLQUIST

COURTESY SHARON DAHLQUIST

Ron and Sharon Dahlquist

he best photographers can create magic out of stunning scenery and extreme feats of athleticism, but also the seemingly mundane, ordinary moments that others might overlook. Ron Dahlquist exemplified this concept. One frigid winter morning in Steamboat Springs, Dahlquist stood in the cold snapping photos not of sprawling landscapes, but of ice crystals on his windshield. “People driving by thought he was crazy, but he ended up selling a lot of those photos,” says Sharon Dahlquist, Ron’s wife.

Ron Dahlquist used lighting to create in-camera effects long before the benefits of photo-editing computer programs. 50 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

When Ron died last fall from Parkinson’s disease, he left behind a long history of photographing adventure sports – skiing, snowboarding and surfing were his focus – and landscapes. There is also an argument to be made that he played a role in putting Steamboat Ski Area on the map. Ron grew up in Southern California, beginning his photography career as a freelancer for Surfer Magazine. He sold his first photo for $5, but this small transaction sparked a photography career that spanned over 50 years. In 1976, Ron brought those photography skills to Steamboat Springs, where his work captured the attention of Rod Hanna, who at the time was the public relations director at the Steamboat Ski Area. Hanna, who had worked as a photographer for the Denver

line

Dave Wilkinson, aka Dr. Dave, circa 1980s

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 51

YOU BUILD IT... WE PROTECT IT.

Specializing in high value properties

405 South Lincoln Ave. Steamboat Springs

(970) 879-1363

www.steamboatselectins.com

SERVING ALL YOUR INSURANCE NEEDS HOME & AUTO • COMMERCIAL LINES • HEALTH BENEFITS

52 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

Broncos and Kansas City Chiefs, asked Ron to be the corporate photographer for the ski area. “It was obvious when we hired Ron to be the photographer for the ski area that this was a guy with very unique talent,” Hanna says. Ron was windsurfing in Hawaii in the mid‘80s when a friend introduced him to Sharon. “Next thing I knew, (in 1987) he was packing up his things and moved here,” Sharon says. Whether on the slopes of Steamboat or the beaches of Hawaii, Ron had the uncanny ability to capture the spirit of a moment in his photography. “Ron had this natural gift of creativity, but he was an emotional person and his emotions came out in a lot of the photos,” Sharon says. “He wanted his sports photography to convey pure adrenaline.” Hanna, a prolific photographer himself, knows just how much work Ron put into capturing these emotions on camera. “Ansel Adams once said, ‘When you view a photograph of mine, what you see is the equivalent of what I saw and felt.’ Ron’s work was the perfect example of that kind of vision. It’s not just accurately recording the scene; it’s doing it in a way that shows the emotion that’s there,” Hanna says. Ron was capable of seeing a good photo anywhere he went, not only with sports photography, but with landscape and nature photography as well. “He was, through his whole career, a rare talent in terms of seeing what was important in an image,” Hanna says. “Some of his best photos were intimate landscapes with no sky, zeroing in on more details.” On a visit to a European cathedral, Sharon recalls, Ron had his camera pointed downward at a large puddle on the ground while everyone around him had their cameras aimed at the ornate ceiling. While others took snapshots of the scene in front of them, Ron captured distinctive images of the cathedral’s reflection. “Photography was always part of him,” Sharon says. “He thought in pictures and brought his camera everywhere. One of his favorite shots of upcountry Maui was taken on the way to a friend’s house for dinner. We pulled over on the side of the road and Ron jumped out to shoot some images as the sun was setting and its golden rays were bathing the slopes of Haleakala in that beautiful, golden light that he loved so much.” On the other hand, much of Ron’s work was far from spontaneous. “He knew the right date and time to be somewhere for perfect lighting,” Sharon says. “Sometimes he would have an idea for a photo in his mind and it would actually take years to set it up, but when it was time it would result in really special pictures.” “He was happiest shooting,” Sharon adds. “If he was ever in a bad mood, I would say, ‘Why don’t you go out and take some pictures?’”

Suzy Williams Lord takes flight on Storm Peak.

Steamboat Detailing

is a Selected Member of the Air Force One Detailing Team.

Northwest Coloradoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ceramic Coating specialist. Proudly serving Steamboat Springs since 2001. www.steamboatdetailing.com 970-879-0111 | 2670 Copper Ridge Cir., Unit 23 STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 53

Garrett McNamara races to escape the barrel of a wave in Peahi, Hawaii.

54 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

Sharon recalls one of her face, he could frontfavorite shots of Ron’s was light the skier instead with a snowboarding team of having them in in southern Colorado, shadow.” “Also the powder,” when a snowboarder Sharon adds. “He loved in mid-jump created a skiing the powder.” dazzling light display in the Ron and Sharon powder plume. Another stand-out worked as the leftshot of Ron’s was of surfer brain and rightGarrett McNamara in the brain of the same barrel of a 50-foot-plus wave photography team, in Peahi, Hawaii, coming with Sharon working out through the mist. “It on the business and was one of his favorite organizational end and Colorado’s state flower, the Columbine, on Rabbit Ears Pass photos,” Sharon says. “It left Ron working in the the viewer wondering if (McNamara) made it or didn’t make it. creative realm. “I think that (meeting Sharon) was a major uptick I remember he walked into the office afterward and had so in Ron’s career because she started the organizing and marketing much adrenaline going, he had to go right back and shoot side of it,” Hanna says. The loss of Ron was a blow to not only the photography some more shots from the cliffs.” Later that same day, he world, but the ski community of Steamboat Springs and surfing captured another surf shot that won that year’s Billabong XXL community of Hawaii. Ron’s memorial attended by family and award for largest wave photographed. Despite Ron’s photographic success in Hawaii, the couple friends in Hawaii lived up to the amazing life he lived. “We had both had Colorado connections – Sharon having lived in Winter a family gathering after Ron passed, and we were on a boat and Park – and they would return to Steamboat each winter. His just after we finished singing ‘Aloha ‘Oe’ (‘Farewell to Thee’) a work frequently graced the pages of Steamboat Magazine, up to whale breached four times next to our boat,” Sharon recalls. and even beyond his death. “He loved the people there, loved the “Ron was so connected with nature and we all felt that the whale beauty. He would travel to lots of different areas but Steamboat breaching was Ron saying goodbye and that he was ok. It really was always home to him,” Sharon says. “He always said he loved was a spectacular, breathtaking moment that everyone will shooting in Steamboat because of the light. The way the slopes always remember.”

MOVE TO THE MOUNTAINS. Then, move mountains. MOST AFFORDABLE BACHELOR’S DEGREE IN COLORADO.

    

Business Administration Nursing Outdoor Education Ski & Snowboard Business/Action Sports Sustainability Studies

Residential, Remodels, Additions, Commercial... We Do It All

Building green since 1980. www.fox-construction.com • 970-879-7529 PO Box 772971, Steamboat Springs, CO 80477

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 55

Museum Marvels | BY PAUL KNOWLES PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY MUSEUM OF NORTHWEST COLORADO Paul Knowles, assistant director of the Museum of Northwest Colorado in Craig, tells the stories behind several of the most fascinating items in the museum’s collections.

Harry Tracy wears leg cuffs in Craig after his 1898 arrest in Brown’s Park.

HARRY TRACY’S REVOLVER

hy Harry Tracy isn’t recognized as the most notorious outlaw of the West is beyond me. His tale borders on pure fiction – not even very realistic fiction. Yet it’s all true. This .45 Colt revolver was taken from Harry Tracy in Brown’s Park in 1898. It is believed to be the same one used to escape the Utah State Penitentiary and also likely the one used to kill Valentine Hoy – the Brown’s Park posseman.

56 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

Tracy escaped two county jails (one involved beating the sheriff), two state penitentiaries (one involved a deadly shootout) and shot his way out of several nowin situations – all while killing 12 men along the way. And he wasn’t exactly sneaky about it; he relished the fear he created by proudly proclaiming, “I’m Tracy” to the people he met while on the run. A QUICK RECAP OF TRACY’S EXPLOITS: 1897 – Tracy escapes the Utah State Penitentiary by somehow securing a .45 Colt revolver. 1898 – Tracy commits his first known murder – a posseman in Brown’s Park (today’s Moffat County). He is finally captured and escapes after two weeks at the

Routt County Jail in Hahns Peak by beating the sheriff and locking him in a cell. Recaptured the next day near Steamboat Springs, Tracy is sent to the Pitkin County Jail in Aspen. He escapes again a few months later and makes his way to Oregon/Washington. 1901 – Tracy is arrested after a string of burglaries and sent to the Oregon State Penitentiary. 1902 – As though straight from a Hollywood movie, Tracy and an accomplice grab a ladder and a guard for use as a human shield and walk into the prison courtyard, guns blazing. With bullets raining down from the guard towers, they manage to scale the wall and escape while killing six men in the process. Now a nationwide sensation, Tracy kills his accomplice (whom he blamed for his initial capture) and flees with several posses in pursuit. Tracy unexpectedly stays in the Oregon/Washington area and happily tells everyone exactly who he is. Because of this, posses find and corner him into several no-win situations, only to watch Tracy brazenly shoot and kill his way out. After months of successfully evading capture, Tracy is seriously wounded and surrounded in a Washington field; he takes his own life.

Ann specifically had it out for Ora Haley and his Two-Bar cattle operation for three reasons: 1. She felt he used his vast herds and fortune to push around and intimidate the smaller cattle outfits. 2. Ora almost certainly hired legendary gun-for-hire Tom Horn to murder her fiancé, Mat Rash, and her friend Isam Dart in 1900. 3. Ora Haley was a man. Later in life, Ann wrote an extremely revealing glimpse into her character and motivation. She also offered-up a nearly full confession: “Let men brag about their brute strength, yet when they get mired up to the ankles, they invariably SOS the women, exactly as I do, knowing when one’s knees get to wobbling, they can back up against the supporting cast of women’s strength. For despite several errors, women are still a length ahead in this human race, two years old or over. “My best friends and guides have always been women, the wives, sisters and mothers of the men who were clamoring to see my shatter-proof hide neatly drying on a corral fence. These noble women – and I salute them – were standing by, giving a hand of helpful encouragement, irradiating wisdom and patience during the staging of those elaborate tournaments where men enjoyed the pastime sport of having me arrested and dragged through the courts for various alleged crimes against the lordly Two-Bar – many of which I was as guilty as hell! They charged to my rescue and went over the top with financial and moral support.” It doesn’t get much more direct than that.

The only known photo of Mat Rash was taken shortly before his death. It was donated by Bill Haworth, Ann Bassett’s great nephew, in 1993.

CUFFS WORN BY ISAM DART WHEN MURDERED BY TOM HORN

I Ann Bassett, circa 1900

ANN BASSETT’S PHOTO OF MAT RASH

“Q

ueen” Ann Bassett was arrested and tried in 1911 after being accused of rustling by the large cattle baron Ora Haley. Though acquitted, she eventually confessed to her misdeeds.

sam Dart is a fascinating character in U.S. history. Unfortunately, he is best known for untrue tales and for being murdered by the West’s most famous hit man – Tom Horn.

There are countless stories about Isam Dart growing up as a slave in Arkansas. After being freed, the story goes, he ran with the vicious Tip Gault Gang under the alias Ned Huddleston. However, nearly all of this is pure fiction – including the very existence of a “Tip Gault Gang.” STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 57

STEAMBOAT ARCHITECTURAL ASSOCIATES www. s t e a mboa t a r c hi t e c t u r a l . c om

( 9 7 0 )8 7 9 0 8 1 9 S t e a mboa tS pr i ng s , CO

A tintype photograph of Isam Dart, taken in 1890 by Black photographer John Green, is the only verified image of Dart.

Leather wrist cuffs were removed from Isam Dart’s body by Eb Bassett before his burial.

525 LINCOLN AVE. • ACROSS FROM THE OLD COURTHOUSE

970-870-6658

58 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

In reality, Isam first shows up in the 1870 census at the age of 12 living in Seguin, Texas – his birth state. As a cattle driver, he eventually made his way to Brown’s Park around 1883 about the same time as fellow Texan, Mat Rash. Isam was well-liked in Brown’s Park and known as a “top hand among cowboys” and an expert bronco buster. He was an accomplished and well-respected African American thriving among a nearly 100% white population in an era that was frequently hostile to African Americans. I’d love to have met him. Dart and Rash soon had their own cattle operations in Brown’s Park but were dogged – as many in the area were – by accusations of occasional rustling. In 1900, a man by the name of “Tom Hicks” began working as a hand for Rash. After a few months, Hicks simply vanished. Then, on July 8, 1900, Rash was shot dead in his cabin. On October 3, 1900, Dart met the same fate while walking to his corral. It was later declared that the mysterious “Tom Hicks” was none other than infamous gun-for-hire, Tom Horn. All evidence suggests that he was hired by large cattle barons to enter Brown’s Park to gather evidence of rustling … and then put an end to it.

Frank Leslie’s Illustrated Newspaper in New York published this Meeker Massacre illustration on December 6, 1879.

Martin L. Brandt, a reporter for The Herald, wrote these 11 pages shortly after the Meeker Massacre.

MEEKER MASSACRE WITNESS ACCOUNT AND PHOTOS

“I

arrived…only to find the agency building and property smoldering heaps of ruins…employees putrid bodies lying about the grounds where they had fallen… their wives, sons and daughters missing.” These were the words written in 1879 by a reporter arriving on the still-fresh scene of what became known as the “Meeker Massacre.”

Nathaniel Meeker was appointed Indian Agent to the White River Ute Indian Agency near present-day Meeker, Colo. in 1878 with the intent of quickly converting the Utes into farmers. After nearly a year of tense relations with the local tribe (mostly attributed to Meeker himself), the final straw occurred when Meeker ordered a horse racetrack, a favorite pastime of the resident Utes, to be plowed-up. This event prompted a minor uprising in which Meeker claimed to have been assaulted by one of the chiefs prompting him to send a letter requesting military support. Major Thomas T. Thornburgh at Fort Steele in Rawlins, Wyo. organized nearly 200 troops to quell the mounting tensions.

When Thornburgh was nearing the agency he was met by a Ute demanding that he continue with just five soldiers to convene a peace conference along with Meeker. Thornburgh, suspecting an ambush, ignored the request. On September 29, 1879, Thornburgh and his troops officially crossed into Ute territory near Milk Creek – an act the Utes considered an overt treaty violation. Ute warriors, led by Chief Colorow, soon attacked. Several miles away that same day, the agency was also attacked. There, Meeker and ten of his men were killed. The Utes also kidnapped Meeker’s wife, Arvilla, and daughter, Josephine, along with another woman and her two young children. Meanwhile, the Milk Creek battle lasted several days. Thornburgh’s troops were soon reinforced by a small group of Black cavalrymen, also known as Buffalo Soldiers, and eventually a few hundred more troops arrived to force a Ute surrender on October 5, 1879. Major Thornburgh and 13 other men were killed in the battle, along with roughly 20 Ute warriors. Twenty-three days after the initial siege, all the hostages, including Mrs. Meeker and her daughter, were released unharmed. However, the battle was used as a rally-cry for those individuals determined to remove the Utes from Colorado altogether. They soon succeeded.

more @

Learn about Charles Lindbergh’s 1927 visit to Craig at www.SteamboatMagazine.com

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 59

It’s 2021. Listen up! | BY JENNIE LAY

s we ride out the rest of winter into spring, we’re encouraging you to do a little reading and spend a lot of quality time with your earbuds. Plus, we’re sharing one irresistible natural wonder for your eyeballs and one piece of essential enlightenment for your social media scrolling. 60 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

ISTOCK.COM/ANDREW PEACOCK

Media

WATCH THE NORTHERN LIGHTS Nature’s astounding light show goes on, whether we are traveling to the Arctic to watch it or not. The folks at Polar Bear International bring the aurora borealis from the skies over Churchill, Manitoba, to our living rooms. This remote village on the shore of Hudson Bay sits directly under the auroral oval, making it one of the best places on Earth to witness the colorful atmospheric phenomenon, especially during late winter. The live aurora cam is perched at the Churchill Northern Studies Center, a spot on the tundra that’s absent of light pollution. www.explore.org/livecams/aurora-borealis-northern-lights/northern-lights-cam

MARCH BOOKS COMING HOT OFF THE PRESS AND COOL AUTHORS COMING (VIRTUALLY) TO STEAMBOAT

Most anticipated nonfiction! “Beloved Beasts: Fighting for Life in an Age of Extinction” by Michelle Nijhuis While the cover suggests “Beloved Beasts” might stick to charismatic species, what science journalist Michelle Nijhuis unveils is something more foundational – a history of the people who fought for those species, and what drove them to do it. Conservation has an origin story that deserves considerable hand-wringing as we grapple with climate change and the sixth extinction. This is a definitive 300-year survey of the scientists and activists who harbored all manner of biases that shaped the ways we approach (or ignore) biodiversity. Nijhuis provides a wily and wildly intertwined history of modern conservation. There are heroes, but there are also deeper truths revealed in her modern survey of the science and activism that saves species. It is essential to this history that she does does not shy away from a harmful legacy of racism and colonialism that have pervaded conservation. While it is clearly the wildlife and ecosystems that hang in the balance, Nijhuis traces the essential roles that some of the most intriguing and influential humans have played in determining nature’s fate. There is light and shadow in this book. It is a reckoning, and a comprehensive history that every champion of conservation

should dive into with vigor. Without a doubt, Nijhuis has added an essential and admirable volume to the canon of conservation literature. Michelle Nijhuis in conversation at Bud Werner Library, 7 p.m., Monday, March 22, www.crowdcast.io/steamboatlibrary

Highly anticipated fiction! “Foregone” by Russell Banks Russell Banks is a two-time finalist for the Pulitzer Prize and a living legend of the literary world. His novels often challenge our assumptions and understanding of ethical dilemmas, and “Foregone,” the story of a famous Canadian American leftist documentary filmmaker who fled to Canada to avoid serving in Vietnam and is now baring secrets on his death bed, holds true to form. In this new novel, “Banks, a conduit for the confounded and the unlucky, is at his most magnetic and provocative,” says Booklist. “In this masterful depiction of a psyche under siege by disease, age and guilt, Banks considers with profound intent the verity of memory, the mercurial nature of the self, and how little we actually know about ourselves and others.” Russell Banks in conversation at Bud Werner Library, 7 p.m., Thursday, April 1, www.crowdcast.io/steamboatlibrary

Wherever winter takes you... Let us help you protect your eyes!

RESIDENTIAL COMMERCIAL www.eyecare-specialties.com

NEW CONSTRUCTION REMODELS AND ADDITIONS

Come see our selection! Located in Sundance Plaza next to Safeway on the free bus route. 365 Anglers Dr., Ste. A, Stmbt Spgs 970-879-2020

Craig Eckroth, O.D. Melissa Vides, O.D. 460 Pershing Craig, CO 81625

970-824-3488

970.846.8016 Frank Becker, beckerarchitecture.com STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 61

Media SEVEN BINGE-WORTHY PODCASTS

ive yourself a break and stop doom-scrolling the headlines. These documentary podcasts provide meaty stories, deep context and all kinds of history, nature and interconnectedness that will help make you a better, more informed global citizen. Subscribe wherever you get your podcasts.

“Grouse” Head deep into North America’s sagebrush sea with award-winning radio journalist Ashley Ahearn as she unravels the complicated predicament of the greater sage-grouse. Follow the bird’s plight on foot and horseback, from the voices of a Northern Paiute elder, Idaho cattle rancher, Wyoming energy executive, diehard environmentalist and wildlife biologists who monitor the leks. This eight-part podcast peels back the natural history and modern controversies that plague a once-prolific bird now hanging at the brink of extinction. Intimate groundlevel storytelling follows grouse travails on a landscape altered by grazing, wildfire, oil and gas exploration and all manner of development. Even as an exercise in hope, these birds exemplify just how complicated rural life in the West can be. www.birdnote.org/listen/birdnote-presents/grouse “Timber Wars” Whether you vividly recall the 1990s Pacific Northwest battles surrounding lumberjacks, ancient forests, environmentalists and the Northern spotted owl, or the whole clear-cut controversy is new to you, this eightepisode podcast sheds light on a long saga of extraction, conservation, compromise and collaboration. In this moment when we’re wrangling with public lands and resource management in a changing climate, the timber wars of 30 years ago offer more than a few vital lessons. And here’s a little spoiler: smack-dab in the middle of the podcast we learn that our host, reporter Aaron Scott, is a Steamboat Springs native who moved to Oregon in 1989. www.opb.org/show/timberwars “Dare to Lead” Social scientist, big-hearted storyteller and bestselling author Brené Brown didn’t let any dust settle during her pandemic pause. Instead, she kicked it up like a Texas tornado with two exceptional new podcasts. We turned you on to “Unlocking Us” in the last issue (which we continue to obsess over), but then she popped out with a second powerhouse podcast, “Dare to Lead,” which she describes as “conversations with changecatalysts, culture-shifters and more than a few troublemakers who are innovating, creating, and daring to lead.” Translation: Brown interviews and analyzes some of America’s savviest leaders as they dissect how to make a better and more inclusive country, stronger companies, engaged citizenry and happier humanity. Both of Brown’s podcasts are available for free on Spotify. www.brenebrown.com/podcasts 62 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

“Hope, Through History” Two gems from John Meacham! Offering perspective in a pandemic, Meacham partnered with the History Channel to shine a light on pivotal crises in American history, illuminating how major struggles broke us, unified us and changed us. In a five-part series, he surveys our national handling of the 1918 Flu Pandemic, the Great Depression, World War II, the polio epidemic and the Cuban Missile Crisis. While 2020 was a year filled with angst, this wider perspective is a balm for comprehending the confounding reactions of fellow citizens and leaders alike. www.shows.cadence13.com/podcast/hope-through-history “It Was Said” Look back at 10 of the most powerful speeches in American history with Pulitzer Prize-winning author and historian Jon Meacham. From Martin Luther King Jr.’s last speech to Barbara Jordan’s 1976 keynote at the Democratic National Convention, to 23-year-old John Lewis speaking at the March on Washington, Meacham and his colleagues bring some of the most poignant and impactful words into the broader context of historical events. www.history.com/it-was-said-podcast “Gangster Capitalism” Following up on their Peabody Award nomination for documenting the college admissions scandal, “Gangster Capitalism” comes back strong with Season 2: The NRA. No matter your opinions on guns, this is an eye-popping case study of power, special interests and big money in America. It’s a documentary about straying from a mission, backstabbing executives, quid pro quos and the breakdown of an organization. The ensuing drama plays out with all the twists and excesses of an ‘80s-era soap opera. www.shows.cadence13.com/podcast/gangster-capitalism “Code Switch” Award-winning NPR journalists Shereen Marisol Meraji and Gene Demby are smart and snarky hosts ripping into truths and unraveling the intersection of race, ethnicity and culture in America. They present complicated, deep-thinking material that begs you to embrace the weekly podcast immediately – and then dive into the archives. The multi-racial, multi-generational “Code Switch” team shares often surprising and nuanced stories fleshed out with thoughtful interviews and personal insights into race and identity, shedding light on a more complete American history lesson that most of us missed the first time around. www.npr.org/sections/codeswitch

ONE ESSENTIAL AUDIO BOOK “A Life on Our Planet: My Witness Statement and Vision for the Future,” written and read by David Attenborough Read it if you must. But seriously, who would surrender a chance to have 6.5 hours of Attenborough’s soothing BBC voice resonating in your ear? This book is Attenborough’s manifesto for how to stop imperiling the planet, told through remarkable personal stories, dire warnings observed from a warming Earth, and an irrepressible sense of hope. It is a sweeping, intimate and heartbreaking memoir as we trace the conflicting trajectories of world population, atmospheric carbon and diminishing wilderness through the decades of his life. Yet one might be surprised at the acute optimism from this worldly 94-yearold natural historian. His definitive takeaway: Earth’s fragile biodiversity is wondrous and we must act immediately to cut our carbon and protect it. Bonus: Watch the documentary of the same name on Netflix. The book and film make poignant and beautiful companions. A BRAND-NEW OLD-TIME RADIO SHOW “The Mail Order Husband” Sink back and listen to a new radio play written by Jessica Austgen and performed by professional actors with Piknik Theater. In 1899 Steamboat Springs, an independent local rancher finds herself in need of a husband. Repulsed by the machismo cowboys and miners in her midst, she turns to a mail order catalog to find herself a man. Ranch life, romance and rough-and-tumble shenanigans ensue. Headphones are highly recommended to enjoy the 45-minute drama. www.pikniktheatre.org/the-mail-order-husband INDISPENSABLE INSTAGRAM Follow “Antiracism Daily” Get fundamental lessons about inclusion and equity, every single day. The language is precise and the message is unwavering in its short, pithy graphic presentation. Editor and yoga teacher Nicole Cardoza instills persistent anti-racism education as a consistent and conscious practice in our personal and professional interactions. @antiracismdaily

SHUTTLE SERVICE AVAILABLE ORDER ONLINE PICKUP AT GOLDEN LEAF

CALL 970-870-2941 TO SCHEDULE

OPEN DAILY Recreational & Medical

2020

1755 Lincoln Avenue | Steamboat Springs 970-870-2941

www.GoldenLeaf.co

Have you visited lately?

FREE

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 63

Why Stop Here?

TRAVIS CARPENTER

Why Stop at the Last Page?

Downtown Lincoln Avenue shines bright during a holiday snowstorm.

STAY INFORMED, CONNECTED AND ENTERTAINED WITH SKI TOWN MEDIA’S ONLINE CONTENT The “Thyme Again” at Truffle Pig Restaurant was one of the cocktails featured in the Boat Libations online series.

Warm Your Spirits Up

Yampa Valley Arts & Culture

See What’s Next

In This Boat Together

Don’t miss these winter sips. End a cold winter day with a craft cocktail guaranteed to warm your spirits up. Head to www.SteamboatMagazine.com for winter cocktail recipes from your favorite local restaurants and enjoy these ‘Boat Libations right from your home. Follow Steamboat Magazine on Facebook and Instagram and keep your finger on the pulse of Northwest Colorado. Stay social and keep in the know of things happening in town. Follow us or visit www.SteamboatMagazine.com for information on local businesses, ski area updates and more. 64 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM

There is a substantial amount of arts, community and culture to be found here in Steamboat Springs. Watch concerts at home, view online events and browse local galleries virtually at www.YampaValleyArts.com or subscribe to monthly art newsletters to follow Steamboat’s arts and culture community. If there’s anything this past year has taught us, it’s that the community of Steamboat Springs is in this together. Support local businesses and stay up-to-date with community news you can use at www.SteamboatMagazine.com.

more @

Visit www.SteamboatMagazine.com for original, timely content.

stel LANDSCAPE PLANNING

HOUSE + HOME

ARCHITECTURE INTERIORS

FURNITURE DECOR CUSTOM PIECES DESIGN

TOGETHER, WE WILL CRAFT YOUR STORY THROUGH AUTHENTIC, TIMELESS DESIGN.

970.871.0056 690 Marketplace Plaza, Suite 1

STEAMBOAT MAGAZINE | MOUNTAIN 2021 | 3

Aspen 970.925.8579

Crested Butte 970.349.5023

Denver 303.399.4564

Steamboat Springs 970.879.9222

Telluride 970.728.3359

Vail 970.949.5500

interior landscapes that delight the senses

thurstonkitchenandbath.com 4 | ONLINE AT WWW.STEAMBOATMAGAZINE.COM