professional footwear innovation 2016 - 2017
master of footwear innovation professional footwear innovation forecasting
design
12 weeks
4 weeks
technology
business
2 weeks
18 weeks
forecasting
Start your business and/or
netherlands
china
italy
9 month program 12.950 euro tuition * *including 21% VAT, if applicable
world
Work as an international consultant
content introduction welcome to slem | 05 who is this for | 06 after slem | 06 general information selection procedure | 07 costs | 08 payment | 08 certificate and employment | 08 student housing | 09 method personal development plan | 11 learning what is necessary for you | 11 not reinventing the wheel | 12 building your network | 12 innovative social entrepreneurship | 12 program november 21, 2016 - february 22, 2017 | 14 february 13 - march 10, 2017 | 15 march 28 - april 7, 2017 | 16 april 10 - august 4, 2017 | 16 slem faculty lecturers | 18 - 19 slem alumni recent alumni | 21 - 22 student work recent alumni | 23 - 33 local partners local slem partners | 34
3
a short introduction
SLEM is based in the former town hall of Waalwijk, in the historic city center. Our campus has been refurbished in a spectacular yet durable way by Doepel Strijkers Architects.
4
“innovation distinguishes between a leader and a follower. ” - Steve Jobs -
welcome to slem SLEM (Shoes Leather Education Museum) is an international innovation and education centre for footwear that includes a consulting department, a footwear museum and an education institute that offers fulltime as well as part time programs on a professional level. SLEM’s aim is to improve the world through shoes. Even though there is a growing human population with an exponential need for footwear this is limited by current material resources, production and distribution processes. This causes an urgent need for meaningful change. Shoes have been made and sold pretty much the same way for the past century. While we appreciate tradition, our aim is to develop innovative sustainable technologies that will involve fewer, recyclable, biodegradable and non-toxic resources applied locally. To achieve this SLEM programs stimulate new ways of thinking about footwear that will open up and improve the industry, involving new solutions and creative opportunities that were not available or thought of before. At SLEM we do all this through research, teaching and applying new methods that are suitable for the future. Our Professional Footwear Innovation program eliminates the typical department divisions between technology, design and business, providing a multi-disciplinary platform for both students and professionals from various backgrounds. The program deals with how to forecast future developments for footwear and how to translate this future vision into profitable and sustainable business and design concepts that unite the creative, ethical, commercial and
Investigating better ways of footwear construction is a big part of the program, from new kinds of hand craft to robotics.
technical dimensions of people and their footwear.
5
“we cannot solve a problem by using the same kind of thinking we used when we created them.” - Albert Einstein -
who is this for? SLEM’s Professional Footwear Innovation is meant for anyone who wants to make a profitable and meaningful contribution to the future of the footwear industry. We are looking for people who have a passion for footwear and are highly motivated to better themselves and their environment. A creative entrepreneurial spirit, great curiosity for the future and a willingness to learn, work and travel in multi-cultural and multi-disciplinary teams are also important personal assets. Requirements: This is a post graduate level advanced program, so we do recommend that you either have relevant work experience or at least a bachelor degree in design, technology or business related studies. It is required that you have a sufficient level of English, which means that you should be able to speak and write at a level that is equal to at least CEF C1 and preferably CEF C2, which equals an IELTS score between 7-9.
after SLEM SLEM’s Professional Footwear Innovation program prepares you to start your own innovative footwear company - or continue the one you will have already started during the program. Other international job profiles for alumni include:
· innovation and/or design manager for a footwear brand · multi-disciplinary footwear designer, developer or marketer · professional footwear forecaster · footwear business and/or design consultant SLEM also has its own talent pool for alumni, which actively proposes its graduates for professional consulting projects. Thus far, we have a success
Piles of EVA waste outside an insole factory in China; one of the issues that urgently needs a solution.
rate of 100%: all our alumni have a high level job or their own company in the footwear industry.
6
general information selection procedure For each edition of the program we only accept 10 candidates, so there is a selection procedure. If you would like to apply for SLEM’s Professionalof Footwear Innovation program, please follow the three steps below. Step 1. Apply Please fill out the application form, which you will find on our website and follow
question A: With more tech companies increasingly introducing their products as fashion items, what future developments do you think would help present footwear as a technological product?
the instructions. All applications need to be in English. If you have prior design experience or education, please include a digital portfolio even if it does not contain footwear related projects.
Step 2. Answer this Answer ONE of the two questions on the right. How you answer the question of your choice is up to you, as long as it is digital: it could be an essay, a presentation with images, a video: surprise and delight us! Keep in mind that whatever you send in should demonstrate that you researched the topic and must explain the line(s) of thought that inspired your answer. After you completed step 1 and 2, we will evaluate your
question B: What role can footwear have in helping solve gender equality?
application and contact you if you qualify for step 3.
Step 3. Interview The last step is the final selection round, which is a personal conversation with one or more of our faculty or staff. This can take place on campus or through Skype or Google Hangout, should you live too far away to visit SLEM in person.
We run two professionalprograms per year: a spring intake (mid February) & a fall intake (mid November). There is a rolling application policy and all applications are handled in order of arrival, so the sooner you send in your application the sooner you know if you are accepted. If you wait too long the class might be full!
7
SLEM’s Professional Footwear Innovation. Duration: 9 months Tuition fee: 12.950 euros
payment The tuition for the program can be paid upfront or in three instalments. Please note that your application is not final, and your place in the program not confirmed, until you have paid the enrollment fee (20% of the tuition fee; 2.590 euros). Before you can move on to the next trimester, you must have paid the tuition for that trimester. Payments can be done by bank transfer or Paypal, we do not accept cheques.
Including 21% VAT, which might not apply to everyone!
certificate and employment costs
Upon successful completion of the program you will receive a SLEM certificate, but more importantly, you will have your own company and/or the job you have always wanted. We have an excellent track record: no
The tuition fee for SLEM’s Professional Footwear Innovation, for the duration of 9 months, is 12.950 euros. This includes 21% VAT; please note that according to Dutch law VAT also applies to foreign students, unless they follow the program on behalf of a company.
less than 100% of our alumni are working in the footwear industry in the job they desired or have their own enterprise. Often students already receive job offers while still in the program. You can find an overview of our alumni on page 20 and 21. You are welcome to contact any of our alumni on LinkedIn to ask about their experience with SLEM; just click on their names to go directly to their profiles.
This includes: - all classes and course materials in both the Netherlands, China and Italy - mentoring by professionals for your graduation project
student housing At the Waalwijk SLEM campus there is a student house right across from the
Not included are:
school, providing space for a maximum of eight students. It offers fully furnished
- housing and food in The Netherlands, China and Italy
rooms with shared bathrooms, kitchen and washing machine. The cost for a
- all travel costs for excursions, incuding the trips to China and Italy.
room varies between 400-650 euros per month, including electricity and Wi-Fi.
- visa for China and/or Europe if needed
Should you want to reserve a room, please mention this in your application.
- health and liability insurance (these are mandatory under Dutch law)
We handle requests in order of arrival.
- computers and software! Please bring your own laptop (PC or Mac) with a
During the China and Italy trips students will have to arrange their own housing.
fully working current version of Microsoft Office* and Adobe Creative Suite**
SLEM will suggest options based on budget preferences.
- any extra materials you may want to purchase * & **: we require students to have this software, but do not teach separate classes in this, since many students already have knowledge of these programs. Should you want classes in Adobe Creative Suite specifically for footwear, we can offer these in the evening or on weekends for a modest extra charge.
8
student housing
SLEM’s student house is based in a former office building on the opposite side of the town square, right across the entrance of SLEM. It is fully furnished, with spacious bedrooms and a large shared kitchen, living room and bathrooms. Because of the central location you are very close to shops, bars and restaurants.
9
method
The interior of the Waalwijk campus is inspired by current questions about sustainability in the leather industry. It was painted in the light blue colour of chrome tanning, also called ‘wet blue’, yet all furniture is made of wood and veg tan leather.
10 2
“our business with the future is to improve it, not to predict it - at least not infallibly.” - Edward Cornish -
method SLEM’s method stands out from any other because of its unique international, practical and personal approach that ensures that all our students achieve their goals.
personal development plan As the name implies, this course is an innovation program and real innovation takes time. That is why we maximize the time that each student has for their own project. As soon as students have been accepted, before the start of the program, we enter into a series of conversations - in person or through Skype - to determine what their dreams and goals are. These are then translated into a Personal Development Plan (PDP). In the first three months this can be fairly broad and can also still be changed, but after that the PDP becomes more detailed and determines the focus of the student throughout the course. Every student will apply each class directly to their PDP; so even though in the same class, they each apply the acquired knowledge to their own project.
learning what is necessary for you Your PDP also determines which classes you will need to follow. During the first three months the program focuses on a different subject each week. How much you need to know of each subject, depends on your PDP and your background. On Mondays we have the ‘knowing about’ class, which is mandatory for all students. The rest of the week is spent on ‘knowing how’ classes, which are only mandatory if you need to have hands-on knowledge of that subject. For instance, if you have a business background and do
At SLEM we use various kinds of brainstorming exercises to help define future opportunities for footwear
not want to be a designer, you only need to follow the ‘knowing about’ class about 3D footwear design. In this class you will learn what different 3D
11
footwear design software packages are on the market, what they are used
meet with the students then. Sometimes students participate in consulting
for, how they compare and how much they cost, so that you know what skills
projects as part of their PDP.
to look for when you want to hire someone for 3D shoe design.
You will also have the opportunity to be a SLEM representative at various
Yet if you want to be a designer yourself, then you need to be able to
international trade shows and events, where you can put yourself on the
actually do 3D design for footwear, so in that case you also follow the
map by speaking for and with industry professionals.
‘knowing how’ classes during the rest of the week. Whenever you are not
Of course you also build your network by being in three leading footwear
following class, you are actively working on your Personal Development Plan,
regions; the area around Waalwijk houses about 250 footwear companies
doing research and prototyping for your project.
and we will visit the main footwear regions of both China and Italy, meeting a wide variety of companies during excursions and after hours at social
not reinventing the wheel The entire program has a strong practical approach, aiming to create meaningful innovation without reinventing the wheel. In the first three months
events.
innovative social entrepreneurship
we open your mind to all kinds of innovative thinking about footwear,
SLEM consistently stimulates innovative social entrepreneurship and enables
teaching you how to forecast future opportunities and discussing new
you to start building your own company during the program.
sustainable business models, designs and technologies. After that we go
We imagine that in the near future most people will work on projects in
to China and Italy to experience how the industry works now. This order of
international, flexible teams of independent freelancers and entrepreneurs,
events ensures that you will be able to look at the industry with an open mind,
rather than having a job as an employee for just one company.
yet with an informed view of what is already happening.
At SLEM this is the future that we are actively creating. Besides their PDP the students work on one group project during the nine months of the program,
building your network
which requires teamwork, feedback, project and business management, time management and professional attitude. The subject of this project is determined by the students themselves in the first week of the program and
Throughout the program you continually have the opportunity to build and
the result is exhibited at the SLEM museum upon graduation, alongside the
increase your professional network. Several classes and seminars of the
personal projects of the students.
professionalare also open to professionals. This means that your classmates are not just your fellow full time colleagues, but also CEOs, designers,
All expertise, skills and attitude gained during the program come together in
marketing managers, retailers etc. Furthermore, classes are taught by a wide
the graduation project, which can encompass creating a new material or
range of international guest lecturers – all industry experts - each bringing in
manufacturing process and/or a new product or business concept that will
a huge network of their own.
innovate the footwear industry in a meaningful way. The graduation project can be for an existing company, or you can start your own company, either
SLEM’s consulting department is involved in highly innovative projects for
by yourself or with a fellow student.
companies from around the world who visit SLEM regularly and often also
12
program
SLEM functions as a think tank where you work and learn, therefore there are no typical classrooms but workspaces and labs. Based upon the activity you need to do, you choose a space to work in.
13 2
“the mission of design thinking is to translate observations into insights and insights into products and services that will improve lives.� - Tim Brown -
program Professional Footwear Innovation consists of four parts that are different in duration. The first twelve weeks take place in the Netherlands, then there are four weeks in China, two weeks in Italy and the final eighteen weeks can again be in the Netherlands or in a region that is relevant to your specific graduation project. Graduation always takes place at SLEM’s headquarters in Waalwijk.
november 21, 2016 - february 12, 2017 waalwijk, the netherlands In the first twelve weeks of the program we open your eyes to new opportunities for the footwear industry. Each week focuses on a different subject: forecasting, how to use our footwear and 3d printing labs, concept development, innovative business models, sustainable business, sustainable design, 3D design and wearable technology. Before the start of the program we determine which classes are mandatory for you and are relevant to your personal development plan. There will be ample time to work on your personal project. We will also go on excursions to several companies in The Netherlands and Belgium that are involved in creating all kinds of meaningful innovation throughout Europe.
The thought process is just as important as the end result; students get to sketch out their train of thought on wallpaper.
14
“in theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. but, in practice, there is.” - Jan L. A. van de Snepscheut -
february 13 – march 10, 2017 china (various locations) The second leg of the program takes place in the area of Guangzhou, one of China’s largest cities and the centre of the Pearl River Delta, the region that houses most footwear production. Here we follow an intensive four-week program that consists of classes and company visits and focuses on all kinds of current footwear business as well as opportunities for innovation. After each company visit we evaluate what we have seen and how we could possibly improve their process. The effects of pollution, climate change and mindless consumerism are more apparent in China than in The Netherlands, so students realise even more the importance of creating meaningful, sustainable change. In the first week of the program we focus on the Chinese domestic market, one of the biggest growth markets in the world. We look at how it differs from other markets and how it might develop in the future. We visit a range of companies, from young Chinese designers to large online retailers. The second week focuses on materials, from all kinds of leather, to synthetics, textiles and outsole materials. There will be several theory classes and after those we will visit tanneries, textile mills and outsole companies to get a deeper insight into materials. In the third week the emphasis will be on footwear construction, again through both theory classes and company visits. We will go to a range of footwear factories, from bespoke to very large scale and will look at the production of all kinds of footwear, from sports, to casual and fashion in all price ranges. The final week focuses on innovation, also looking outside the footwear industry. It will partially take place in Shenzhen, China’s centre of wearable technology, 3D printing and biotech. Please note that you need to arrange your own visa for China before you arrive in The Netherlands, since it can only be obtained from your home country!
15
“quality is remembered long after price is forgotten”. - Gucci Family Slogan -
march 28 - april 7, 2017 Italy (various locations) After the 4-week program in China all students will have two weeks to explore further options in Asia on their own or to return home, depending on their personal development plan. After that, we will start the third leg of the program, which will take place at various locations in Italy. The purpose of this final excursion is to also show a different kind of footwear and leather production than you can experience in China, one that focuses more on high quality and sustainability. We will visit veg tan tanneries with state of the art water purification facilities, factories of luxury brands and bespoke shoemakers. Yet we will also meet with a few more high-tech partners of SLEM, such as Atomlab in Vigevano, where we will get some classes in automation and robotics for footwear manufacturing.
april 10 - august 4, 2017 anywhere in the world In the final stage of the program you will focus full time on the personal project that you will have been working on since the beginning. Some students choose to start their own company, while others work on an innovative project for an existing company. Both options are possible, as long as the project meets SLEM’s criteria for meaningful innovation. Where you work on your project depends on you; many students choose to come back to SLEM’s headquarters in Waalwijk, so they can use the labs and pick the brain of SLEM faculty, but it is also possible to return to your home country. In that case you will be mentored online by SLEM faculty and if needed we will get you in touch with one or more mentors from your region. You will be required to return to Waalwijk for graduation, where you will have
We aim to combine the best of both worlds: high-tech and hand craft. (Image of Mario Bemer’s workshop in Florence)
to present your project to a professional jury. If your project is classified and requires a non-disclosure agreement you will present behind closed doors to SLEM faculty only.
16
slem faculty
At SLEM all classes are taught by renowned experts from the field and rather than having one teacher per trimester, you will have many. Here you see how Nike legend Mike Friton fascinates our students with his class in dynamic footwear materials, given on location in Hong Kong.
17 2
nicoline van enter
diane becker
SLEM is the brainchild of Nicoline van Enter, world-renowned footwear forecaster and consultant.
She is a native New Yorker, but based in Florence Italy, where she headed the footwear design department at Polimoda for 10 years and worked with many leading footwear companies, such as Camper, Ferragamo, Pancaldi, Tods and Ferrari.
She is SLEM’s creative director and in charge of the vision and contents of all departments. This means she is responsible for the curriculum, mentors students when possible and teaches mind blowing forecasting
Diane is responsible for the excursion to Italy and is the
classes during the first week of the program.
main advisor on the SLEM curriculum.
annaluisa franco
david hsieh
Annaluisa studied Fashion Design at FIT in New York and at Sapienza University in Rome, before starting her impressive career in Academia.
David is originally from Taiwan, but grew up in Liberia, studied footwear design in Taichung and London and worked as a designer all around Europe for companies like Adidas, Benetton and Clarks.
She is SLEM’s dean, which means she is in charge of the daily management of the Professionalprogram,
Now he has his own studio in Dongguan and is also
including the application procedure and the Personal
in charge of SLEM China, arranging the schedule and
Development Projects.
teaching most of the technical classes.
yassine salihine
mike friton
Journalism, slam poetry, graphic design, industrial design, philosophy.... Yassine Salihine combines them all and then some!
Mike Friton is a sneaker legend! He is one of the founders of Nike’s Innovation Kitchen and the man behind iconic styles such as the Nike Presto and the Nike woven.
Together with Nicoline he is responsible for SLEM’s professional consulting department. He also teaches
Currently he runs his own design and prototyping
concept development and critiques the Personal
studio out of Portland and he teaches dynamic
Development Projects.
footwear materials and non-traditional last construction at SLEM.
18
sanne van den dungen
eva klabalova
Sanne is an expert in circular economy. She has worked for EPEA (Environmental Protection Encouragement Agency) for 4 years, supporting companies such as Puma to get Cradle to Cradle® certification.
SLEM attracts such high level students that they can become teachers themselves. Eva was already well trained in footwear design, hand craft and manufacturing in Czech Republic and Israel before she came to SLEM to expand her knowledge.
Now she works as an independent consultant with a focus on circular materials and agriculture and shares
Now she has her own consulting company and teaches
her knowledge in SLEM’s classes on sustainable design.
both traditional and high-tech shoe making techniques.
marloes ten bhömer
daniel bailey
Marloes is a ground breaking designer and researcher in the field of footwear. She fuses artistic and technological experiment in order to redefine shoes and to create new high-tech methods of construction.
Daniel is the founder of the footwear design digital magazine ConceptKicks.com & cofounder of footwear design + development agency, The ConceptKicks Lab llc. He enjoys making clean, well thought out, disruptive design, with a focus on sustainability. Since he also
She shares her unique approach in her classes about
runs several of his own brands, he teaches design and
concept development and sustainable design.
entrepreneurship at SLEM.
troy nachtigall
rené medel
Troy is SLEM’s technical expert. He has a broad background in fashion and technology, from designing for Calvin Klein and Fendi to pushing the boundaries of wearable technology and 3d printing.
René is also a SLEM alumni who became part of the faculty. He was already an expert trainer in Rhino and other 3D software, working with footwear companies in South and Middle America.
Currently he is getting his PhD in textile thinking, which
He came to SLEM to expand his knowledge on 3D
involves smart textiles, but still mentors students who
printing and is now SLEM’s regular Rhino professor,
want to specialize in this field.
combining footwear and 3D expertise like no other!
19
slem alumni
Our students come to SLEM with big talents and big dreams. We take great pride in inspiring them to grow even further than they thought they could. All our alumni have found the work they dreamed of, after or even already during SLEM. You are welcome to ask them about their experiences!
20 2
leon witherow
shelley lewis
Leon had only one word on his mind when he came to SLEM: Nike. He is the biggest collector of Nike Prestos in the world and came all the way from Australia to fullfil his dream of becoming a designer for Nike.
Shelley had already built up a successful career as a freelance shoe designer in Israel, but wanted to learn more about forecasting and hoped to expand her network to Europe.
And he did! At first Nike turned him down for a traineeship,
She graduated with a sustainable modular shoe.
but then asked him to come work for them after seeing his
She is now back in Israel, working for a variety of
work for SLEM. Now he is a Nike designer in Portland!
companies and teaching footwear forecasting,
mathieu hagelaars
rachael noon
Mathieu was brave enough to make the step from being a sales rep for G-Star footwear to joining SLEM to chase his dream of becoming a shoe designer.
Graphic designer Rachael Noon also dreamed of working at Nike, yet during the program she found that she felt more at home on the technical and research side of the business, than as a designer.
He graduated with a great concept for a modular upcycling kit for footwear. Now, barely two years later,
She graduated with a professional cheerleading shoe
he runs his own independent design studio out of
as part of a traineeship for Mike Friton and is now indeed
Amsterdam, working for brands like HUB footwear.
working as a concept creator for Nike Innovation.
milou van den berg
franny odziana
Milou already had a bachelor degree in footwear design from ArtEZ in Arnhem, but wanted to get more practical knowledge in order to land a job as a shoe designer.
Franny already had degrees in business and in textile design, but through working at Nordstroms she found out that she really wanted to work in footwear, especially to make it more sustainable.
Straight out of SLEM she was hired by Achten Fashion Group, one of the largest footwear design and trading
She set out to be a technical developer for shoes, and
companies in Europe, where she is now designing three
today she does exactly that, working internationally for
brands: LA Gear, British Knights and Vingino.
Hush Puppies.
21
miller bryant
rené medel
Miller had the courage to leave his job on Wall Street behind and move to Italy to learn how to make shoes. After that he found SLEM and the rest is history...
Rhino expert René Medel came to SLEM to learn more about 3D printing for footwear, so he could expand his 3D skills. He graduated with a ground breaking concept to print
Even before he graduated he was offered a job at
your own series of lasts in house, an ideal solution for
Stahl - the global market leader in leather chemicals
starting designers. Now he is setting up an international
and performance coatings - and now travels the
innovation center for Birkenstock and teaches at SLEM
world to expand their relations with luxury brands.
if he has the time.
ruben lekkerkerker
john leith
Ruben had a bachelor in Illustration, but sneakers are his real passion, so he applied for the Red Rag scholarship at SLEM and won!
John was already a highly successful entrepreneur in Australia in a completely different direction, but one day he found a gap in the men’s footwear market and took a sabbatical to come to SLEM.
Already during the first week of the program he was inspired to create his own zero-waste sneaker brand RUIT. Companies soon noticed his unique creative ingenuity
He wanted to level the playing field for men and started
and now he has a very successful consulting company
his own brand of hight increasing footwear called Ynot,
called KerKerKer, working for Red Rag and others.
which will soon be introduced at London Fashion Week.
mansi shah
eva klabalova
Mansi wanted to innovate the footwear business in India, especially by making comfort footwear more fashionable.
Eva grew up in Zlin, surrounded by shoe factories, where she soon started working after school. She studied footwear design in Czech Republic and Israel and came to SLEM to learn more about shoe innovation.
During the program she showed her determination and graduated with a stylish yet comfortable and functional compression shoe concept. Soon after
She graduated for Atomlab in Italy, designing the first shoe
she was hired by Metro Shoes, one of the biggest
that is made by robots, and now works as a teacher for
footwear companies in India, to join their design team.
SLEM and a successful freelance designer.
22
student work
At SLEM we do not just do design; students get a great variety of assignments trhoughout the course. However, we do strongly believe in prototyping as a thinking and design tool, even for people who are not designers. This sneaker prototype was made by student Petra Beins within one day!
23 2
thinking = protyping
SLEM offers all kinds of work spaces to students, from an in-house footwear factory (top right) to a print lab (top left) and a big studio (centre). The school is open as late as needed, so usually there are always people working on ideas. Even people with a business background get to learn how to enhance their thinking with quick prototyping.
24
in-house manufacturing
New technologies like 3D printing open up new perspectives for local in-house manufacturing. SLEM student RenĂŠ Medel graduated with a very smart and cost effective system to 3D print your own lasts in PLA using a basic FDM printer. By printing the last diagonally you create a hollow shell, which you can then use to make a silicon mold with, to produce series of lasts, or you can fill it with foam and work on it directly.
25
images: sharieta berghuis
combining tech + craft
SLEM is one of the regular participants in Craft the Leather, a veg tan leather workshop, excursion and contest for leading design schools from around the world, organized by the Consorzio Vero Cuoio from Italy. In 2015 we selected student Eva Klabalova and she came up with a spectacular new way to use veg tan outsole leather vertically, in a way that is strong enough to stand on. She added a detachable 3D printed outsole, ingeniously combining 3D printed horizontal layers with hand crafted vertical layers without using any glue.
26
innovative construction
SLEM connects students and companies for innovative projects: this prototype of a wearable, versatile shoe with a detachable platform was designed for the 100th anniversary of German shoe company Deichmann by SLEM student Lenka Markova and was made by students of the Deutsche Schuhfachschule in Pirmasens. Together they developed an intelligent solution for the sole plate, which was then 3D printed in metal.
27
made by robots
At SLEM we push the boundaries of footwear manufacturing, so we actively investigate new methods of construction that will make production more sustainable, faster, more cost effective etc. Eva Klabalova graduated for Italian machinery manufacturer Atomlab, designing a shoe that can be made entirely by an ABB Yumi robot. She also designed the workflow, including functional 3D printed lasts, and the whole concept was recently demonstrated at the Simac show in Italy, where it astounded the professional visitors!
28
advanced 3d printing
A lot of students come to SLEM because of our advanced level of 3D printing. We can print fully wearable shoes and orthotics and are now exploring new areas, such as 3D printing on textiles or even to encase wearable technology, such as LED lights and sensors. We are also starting up a biolab for bioprinting technologies that can create alternatives for leather. SLEM Students - such Vito Loverre (centre) - get full freedom to use all 3D printing facilities.
29
creative upcycling
Sustainability is a very important aspect of the master. This inspired Mathieu Hagelaars to create a concept that encourages people to get creative with their shoes, recycling upper panels from their old shoes or creating new upper panels by recycling other materials that they would otherwise throw away. The panels can then be used to play with the look of the iconic, classic boot through an ingenious sole system and back loop. He presents the shoes as a complete kit, including tools and instructions.
30
innovative functions
SLEM students are encouraged to think of new meaningful functionalities for footwear and to develop full concepts, including extensive background research, product development and marketing. This is an example by Leon Witherow, who designed sneakers for urban activists, incorporating gas masks, webcams and eye-flushing kits for tear gas victims among other useful elements that can be adjusted to their specific needs.
31
footwear construction
Before you can innovate, you first need to understand the current situation. That is why we visit a very wide range of companies in China and Italy to understand the current state of footwear and leather production and the challenges that should be met in the future. We make sure that the companies we visit are already on the forefront of technology, so that after each visit we can brainstorm about how to improve the current situation, without reinventing the wheel.
32
overwhelming experiences
Visiting China can be an overwhelming experience for the students, since it is not only a different culture from what they are used to, it is also a country of extremes: from having classes at the brand new Innovation Tower by Zaha Hadid at Hong Kong’s Polytechnic university, to visiting polluting factories in back streets filled with piles of garbage, and from deluxe high-fashion shopping malls to blatant copy-cat products in cheap material markets.
33
presenting & networking
Learning how to present yourself and how to expand and use your network are also important aspects of the program. Students are required to present their personal projects for an audience on various occasions, for instance during our own SLEMinars and at trade shows in both Europe and China. This is a great way to meet people who can help them move further in their chosen direction. Often students have found their future employers and business partners in this way.
34
ecco leather
tractus 3D
new shoe company
pj klerx
stahl
textile museum tilburg
greve
pj klerx
regional partners
SLEM’s location in Waalwijk has huge advantages. Not only is it one of the main footwear hubs in Europe with about 250 shoe and leather companies, it is also part of the smartest region in the world, according to international think tank Intelligent Community Forum. The Dutch region came ahead of regions around Seoul and Silicon Valley. Logically, SLEM is partnering closely with local companies. For instance, we can use Stahl’s high-tech leather finishing lab for our classes, we can make prototypes at the factories of Greve and New Shoe Company and receive great sponsorships from PJ Klerx/Red-Rag.
35
the next SLEM professional footwear innovation course will open its doors in november 2016. see you then! SLEM Waalwijk Raadhuisplein 1-2 5141 KG Waalwijk The Netherlands info@slem.nl phone +31 416 757630 www.slem.nl
Design by saf~ thisissaf.com Photography by Teo Krijgsman, Wieke Hoeke & SLEM
2