Trend presentation for CAT SS 2014

THE BEAUTY OF INDUSTRY

For Spring/Summer 2014 I chose to create a presentation for CAT around all kinds of industry. Last summer season we focused on the fusion of craft and industry and this is still relevant, yet we find that the focus shifts towards industry. Looking at recent press releases and campaigns of all kinds of brands, both from the footwear business and other segments, we find a focus on the making of the product.

And rather than portraying craftsmen who do everything by hand, we see big fac-

tories with heavy machines. Yet this heavy duty equipment is also used to make very delicate and eco products. This renewed interest in industry is very positive for CAT, allowing the brand to emphasize its industrial heritage even more. I have chosen three kinds of industry - from traditional mechanical production to new technologies - to use as inspiration for the various CATagories. This way I intend to provide inspiration for both design and marketing.

There are various reasons for this new fascination with the industrial making of products. First of all, the economic situation has a lot to do with it. Consumer need to make sure their little money will go a long way, so they are more interested in the quality and making of the things they buy. At same time, with western currencies in decline, we see a slow return of local production. Factories used to be in the city and I expect that these will eventually return, also because of the

shifts in the retail landscape. With stores closing in the center, there will need to be new purposes for empty buildings and new technologies make it possible to produce on a small scale. Friends of mine just started a shoe factory in Manhattan and they are already fully booked. Combining production and sales will also lead to new exciting retail concepts. At the same time, consumers appreciate local production, also for reasons of sustainability, so it is also a great selling point as such.

Shifts in technology are also a main reason for the return of industry. For instance, at the last Salone del Mobile in Milan, the machines were the stars, even more so than the designers. The boundary between design and technology is blurring quickly, with designers using existing machines in new ways or developing their own machines. The development of the production process becomes an integral part of the design of a product and is no longer left to engineers. This

results in a lot of new machines, both high and low-tech, which allow designers to create products that are mass produced yet unique. Eventually (part of) production could come into the hands of consumers. For footwear this is not the case yet, but we will find new ways of construction, especially when it comes to molding or combinations of high-tech and hand crafted ways of production. With my new institute SLEM we are actively researching new possibilities in this area.

HEAVY INDUSTRY - LRC/YOUNG HERITAGE

HEAVY INDUSTRY

The first story is about heavy industry, yet this also undergoes some changes, giving this story a slight futuristic streak. We find designers making very heavy duty products in metal or concrete, which require heavy machines to make them, yet we find existing industrial techniques used in new ways. Jolan van der Wiel for instance, uses big magnets and heavy weights to pull metal into strangely organic shapes. His products look like they were grown, not made. We also find heavy

duty objects that are produced in a traditional way, using molds, but these all look clean and architectural. This modernist flavour is reflected in shoes as well.

We see heavy duty styles, yet with a look that is much cleaner and less rugged than before. Even though this is a small story, I feel it suits CAT very well, because of its background in heavy industry, so I suggest you exploit it for both design and marketing.

HEAVY INDUSTRY

This story is progressing from the pre-industrial theme we had for winter, yet it is modernized. So we find clothes that are inspired by the workwear of the beginning of the previous century, yet the looks are cleaned up, omitting details and using clean neutral colours. Accessories create futuristic accents, like the gloves made of car tyres on the model shown on the left.

VISIBLE CONSTRUCTION Basically you can apply this story to your existing styles by making some of the construction visible in a sophisticated way, like the shank on the outside. Any hardware should also look slightly weathered and not blingy and new.

HEAVY INDUSTRY

MODERN LAST SHAPES This story has a subtle futuristic streak and this results in slim lasts for worker styles, such as these. Please also notice that the upper is not distressed at all.

HEAVY INDUSTRY

HEAVY INDUSTRIAL MATERIAL Another way to express the futuristic element of this story is to apply heavy industrial materials in a new unexpected way. I chose these examples because they both use car tyres, which relates well to CAT’s heritage. The boots are a collaboration between Asher Levine and Doc Martens. It is quite extreme, but does present the tyres in a new way and shows how you could play with the silhouette of a classic boot.

HEAVY INDUSTRY

TEXTURES This slide also shows some more extreme examples, yet I want to merely express the importance of the use of new textures. These could be molded like the rubber parts shown on the top row, or sprayed, like the ‘asphalt grain’ on the Margiela sneakers. I would advise to look into applying some non-leather materials here.

HEAVY INDUSTRY

LIGHT NEUTRALS This slide is meant to show that light neutral shades, such as various shades of grey, are still very directional. I do feel they look a little too washed and weathered though.

HEAVY INDUSTRY

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION - LRC

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

The next story is about the fusion of craft and industry. This is still a strong continuing trend, so this makes up the biggest chunk of the presentation and is relevant for all categories. It is basically about creating quality and uniqueness, without a granola feel: we either find objects that are inspired by industry, but have a hand crafted quality - like the stools - or we see ideas that center around combining hand crafted and industrial techniques. The machine in the middle for instance,

uses molds to create vases that look high-tech and pixilated, but are in fact hand made. The shoes by Carol Christian Poell are made industrially, yet the consumer can literally hammer them into shape. Dangerous idea, but fun nonetheless, especially for marketing purposes.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

When we look at how this trend translates to apparel, we see that it leads to styles that are made in natural materials and colours, yet look clean and modernist, with subtle influences from uniforms. This will also have a great effect on footwear, with rugged and distressed looks on the way out and clean styles in premium materials on the rise. The monochrome colour ways that are shown in these outfits by Belstaff are also directional for shoes.

MINIMALIST CLASSICS For LRC and Young Heritage you could take classic low cut styles and minimize them, as you see here. This does not mean there should be no detail at all, since that would be a pretty big leap from what you did for the winter season. You could focus on using historic, refined kinds of stitching, for instance, rather than brogue perforations.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

SLIP-ONS There is a big trend in slip-ons and other ‘easy on - easy off’ styles across the board. I feel this slightly rugged and hand crafted leather style would suit LRC.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

DECONSTRUCTED Uppers will look cleaner and less distressed for this story, yet deconstruction is still a big thing, so we still find raw edges and minimal stitching. I think the way these styles play with the fastening is also directional for CAT.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

PLAYFUL WELTS & MIDSOLES Leather welts add a hand crafted look, so we find many varieties. I think the shoe on the top right could be a good variety on the pre-industrial direction CAT started for the winter season, with the leather cup showing some brogue details, whilst the upper remains very simple and clean.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

CRAFT & VINTAGE Applying vintage materials and hand crafted finishing to classic oxfords is a trend that CAT could apply for summer shoe styles in LRC or Young Heritage.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

COLOUR There is a lot that can be done by merely applying colour, such as placed shading and this ‘sun tan’ effect.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

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HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION - LRC WOMEN

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

For women we see the same clean modernist looks in natural materials. The more minimal they become, the more fashion forward they are. This means that for women’s LRC you could work on styles that look very architectural, yet are made in natural casual materials. We also find looks getting more elegant and feminine in general here, so that implies that you will need to find last shapes that are elegant yet still look tough enough for CAT.

HIGH HEELED CLOGS For women’s LRC I could imagine a clog with a wedge heel and a clean architectural look.

Deconstruction is very influential here as well, with clean uppers, raw edges and bold hybrids of styles.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

CRAFTED DETAILS This slide looks very colourful, yet the reason why I show these styles is more about the construction than the colour.

Coarse hand crafted stitching could not just be decorative, but also create designs that are easy to disassemble.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

LIGHT COLOURS The use of light neutral shades is essential to create a look that is casual yet clean. Please notice how the soles are finished in the same colour.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

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HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION - LRC UNISEX

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

One big story in fashion in general, is the rise of more unisex styles. That does not just have to mean the clean androgynous stuff that we have seen before though.

Basically we find menswear getting more creative and ‘feminine’. For mainstream brands this happens through the use of colour - like you see in the jacket by Ferragamo on the right - and we feel this is something CAT could easily translate onto existing styles.

SPRAYED The sprayed and dip dyed effect that we see in the clothing on the previous slide, is also used for footwear. Basic casual styles get a new twist by spraying a gradient on the upper. This look is suitable for both men and women, so you could choose to do a unisex style, whether it is a boot or a sneaker.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

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HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION - CASUAL MEN

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

For the more mainstream market we see the same modernist favour, yet translated in a more sporty, comfy way, with loose fitting layered silhouettes. The monochrome colours ways are present here as well. The combination of different textures, mixing natural and synthetic materials, makes sure the outfits look rich and exciting rather than boring.

WOVEN SANDALS Sandals get a hand crafted and slightly ethnic look through the use of rather refined woven uppers. We find these on leather soles or on comfort sandal bottoms.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

CLEAN AND ARCHITECTURAL These styles are very directional for innovation in sandals for CAT. With the trend in cleaner looks we also find cleaner uppers for sandals that play with proportions but still remain masculine. Vegetan and black leather are combined and details are minimal or rather industrial, such as zippers.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

SPORTY COMFORT Comfort sandals get a sporty twist with broad straps in nylon and/or leather, clean hardware and smooth comfort soles that can have a bright pop colour.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

SHANDALS Fusions of shoes and sandals are a continuing trend and now we find varieties based on desert bootlike styles.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

DESERT BOOTS Speaking of desert boots, these are also a continuing trend as such. We find two varieties: natural, clean and soft looks or more rugged styles with a thick outsole. I feel CAT could do both and possibly create a slip-on look that has a desert boot feel.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

DECORATION Within the casual market there still is an ethnic trend going on.

The cork sole Burberry styles are over the top for CAT, but the Missoni desert boots show how you can ‘Catify’ this trend with in-tone embroidery.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

NEW MATERIALS To modernize casual looks we find brands experimenting with new materials and finishes, from the use of tape - shown in the Marc Jacobs shoe - to latex rubber and flockprint, shown in the more experimental Margiela styles. The latex rubber plays into the trend in slightly translucent materials and I think it suits CAT, just not for the entire upper.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

SUMMER BALLISTICS Natural and synthetic, ballistic canvas are combined for summer boots and shoes. The greyish neutrals, monochrome colour ways and leather welts give an extra summery twist and suit CAT very well.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

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HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION - CASUAL WOMEN

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

For the women’s mainstream casual market we see the same trends towards elegance that we showed for LRC, but here the femininity is achieved by wearing rather loose fitting and layered tops, with slim and/or short sexy bottoms. With women showing so much leg, we find a need for high heeled styles as well as sandals with ankle straps.

ELEGANT BOOTS For women’s casual styles this story means that we will find more elegant styles in soft and rather shiny leathers. To add a more industrial twist we find subtle and playful hardware, like the zipper on the welt.

I also feel this last shape is very good: oval and feminine, yet not too narrow. Heels are straight to still maintain a casual feel.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

ESPADRILLE WEDGES Espadrilles are a big trend in all kinds of varieties. For CAT it will be important to create styles that don’t look cheap, like ordinary espadrilles. Rope covered wedges are a good option and these can be very high when combined with a platform.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

ESPADRILLE FUSIONS We also suggest fusions of espadrilles and other styles, like sneaker uppers and rope soles, or rope covered uppers. You can also play around with the ribbons. Bottoms are all quite sturdy, like espadrille creepers.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

GREEK SANDALS Ancient Greek sandals are translated in clean ways for summer. Uppers can be fairly complicated, yet details and stitching are minimized. Cool vegetan shades and other light neutrals are most directional and leathers are quite matte, like these nubucks.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

GLADIATOR SANDALS The trend in gladiator sandals seems to be indestructible, yet they also get the minimal clean look that is essential for this story. I feels these styles

by Damir Doma show a good direction for CAT.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

RETRO SPORT This story also has a seventies streak to it, which is reflected in retro sport materials for casual styles, as you see here in the combination of transparent plastic and mesh on a thick crepe wedge.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

VEGETAN Vegetan is still a major trend for both uppers and soles.

With styles becoming so minimal, it is even more essential to have good quality vegetan to create a rich natural look.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

SEVENTIES RETRO FEEL Vegetan is also essential to create a seventies retro feel, especially when combined with off-white natural canvas. The boyfriend look that is shown here is a continuing trend.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION - CASUAL UNISEX

UNISEX SLIP-ONS With slip-ons being such a huge trend for both men and women, we feel that CAT should create a unisex slip-on style. This could take inspiration from espadrilles, yet in a non-literal way, like the one on the top right by Clarks.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

LASSO SHOE This RCA graduation project shows how you can also create an espadrille feel by focusing only on the stitching. These eco ‘Lasso Shoes’ are made out of one panel that is stitched together with only one lace.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

ESPADRILLISH These styles stay closer to the espadrille look, yet they all offer different solutions that are inspiring for CAT, from wedges to leather uppers and stitched rope foxings.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION - CODE

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

For CODE the minimal look is perhaps even more important than for the other categories. Well known classics get a geometric touch and the colours are very light and clean, even though the overall look is still sporty and casual. There is a big influence from rainwear, although that gets a more sophisticated flavour than the plastic jackets we saw before. Instead we find trenchcoats, like the one on the left, made of very functional waterproof materials.

CLEAN AND COMFY For CODE we suggest casual/ sport hybrids such as these, which fuse a desert boot or wallabee look with sneakers, using high-tech details, clean uppers, white outsoles and subtle colour pops combined with natural leathers and hand crafted details.

The new Clarks Originals Sport collection - shown bottom and center right - is very inspiring for CAT, this is exactly the feel that CODE should have.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

CLEAN Thoroughly cleaning up an existing upper and putting that on a sporty bottom could already do the trick. A pop colour can give an extra sneakerlike twist, but is not necessary.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION - CODE WOMEN/UNISEX

UNISEX CODE You could also decide to create the unisex slip-on style we mentioned within CODE. The examples show how you can use sneaker influences in a way that is suitable for both men and women. As long as casual features are balanced with clean sporty ones, you should go in the right direction.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

WOMEN’S CODE I would like to suggest that you add a women’s style to CODE. Currently we find a trend in creeper outsoles that is also reflected in sneaker hybrids, like these. If you keep the clean look and perhaps add some subtle lugs this would suit CAT very well.

HAND CRAFTED MASS PRODUCTION

FUTURE FACTORY - CODE & ACTIVE

FUTURE FACTORY

The final story centres around high-tech production. Technologies such as rapid prototyping make it possible to create highly complex organic shapes that were impossible to make before. Combined with new kinds of software, this totally changes the way we design and make stuff. For instance, Dutch designer Bart Hess - who develops materials - uses animation software to research and design new synthetic materials, playing with shape and transparency. For CAT the

complex organic shapes might still be a stretch, but the innovation in materials is definitely something to look at. Furthermore this story provides a lot of inspiration for marketing.

FUTURE FACTORY

We already saw the influence from rainwear in the previous theme, but in this story it is even bigger. Almost all menswear brands had some kind of new take on rainwear, from rain coats in new materials to gear that is inspired by scuba diving.

Martine Rose uses this look in her collection in a way that suits CAT, mixing casual denim and neoprene. I could easily imagine CAT boots using neoprene. Transparent synthetics are also a huge trend that can be translated to footwear.

FUTURE FACTORY - CODE

VISUAL MERCHANDISING The Future Factory story also offers a lot of inspiration for visual merchandising. The project for instance, called Sneaker Cubes, shows how you can use 3D software to boldly play around with your designs.

It would be cool though if you could also actually make something like this as POS material.

FUTURE FACTORY

SYNTHETIC Synthetic materials and finishes can give existing styles a futuristic twist. The Adidas shoe for Opening Ceremony is a little over the top for CAT, but you could consider using translucent plastic combined with other materials. The rubberized logos and panels on the other styles could also be translated using a transparent finish.

FUTURE FACTORY

SPACE AGE These styles show what could be a different take on CODE for the future. The casual uppers and the thicker outsoles do match CAT, yet for now the look might be too far removed from what CODE looks like at the moment. However, I do expect to see more futuristic looks like these reaching the mainstream market in a few years time.

FUTURE FACTORY

FUTURE FACTORY - ACTIVE

CONTRAST Juxtaposing upper and sole is a big element of this story. You could take existing uppers and put them on a super sporty bottom that has a completely different feel. The sandal especially shows how that could work well for CAT.

FUTURE FACTORY

OLD TO NEW Please look beyond the mega bling on these sandals, because that is not why I included them. What struck me about these sandals is how they use ‘outdated’ nineties outsoles in a completely new way. CAT has numerous soles like this, which are now used for Function First active styles. You could make an endeavour to take these soles and translate them for the Style Seeker consumer by giving them a completely different upper, colour and material. The shape of this sandal, without the chains and made in a more casual material, is great as a fashionable look for CAT.

FUTURE FACTORY

ACTIVE SANDALS Hybrids of casual and sport sandals are a continuing trend, which now also makes its way to other looks, like the slip-on.

Using sporty materials such as EVA and neoprene can give a casual style a totally new twist.

FUTURE FACTORY

PLASTICS The use of materials could give a futuristic active twist to existing styles. You don’t have to apply them to the entire shoe, just a few panels will do. Using monochrome colour ways will prevent the shoes from looking cheap.

FUTURE FACTORY

BIOPLASTIC I would like to end the presentation with an inspiring idea.

These are shoes by the Spanish brand One Moment and they were developed by a mixed group of designers, which do not all come from the footwear business. These slip-ons are completely made of bioplastic, they can be folded into a tiny package and...they retail for only 10 euros a pair! From several reviews that I read on blogs it seems that they are also very durable.

FUTURE FACTORY