Graduation leon witherow

Project Protection: Footwear for the urban warrior

The Urban Warrior;

“The urban warrior must possess initiative, mobility and flexibility, as well as versatility and a command of any situation. Initiative especially is an indispensible quality. It is not always possible to foresee everything, and the urban warrior cannot let himself become confused, or wait for instructions. His duty is to act, to find adequate solutions for each problem he faces, and to retreat. It is better to err acting than to do nothing for fear of making a mistake.”

Carlos Marighella, ‘Minimanual of the Urban Guerrilla’, 1969

The trigger point Excerpt of an email from the Turkish author and leading T24 journalist Hasan Cemal: Hello Leon.

Thankyou for your email and for your interest in the occupy gezi movement.

As a representative of the Bloc, I am obliged to send you our resource material that is distributed to all activists and individuals interested in the movement, however I am also glad to provide you with my own thoughts on the situation in the context of your project.

As you may have already heard, the use of teargas and rubber bullets by the authorities is excessive and greatly affecting our right to a peaceful protest. The supply of proper gas masks is limited and the improvised masks that you observed in photos are only a temporary solution. The police will immediately target anyone wearing military-style clothing and so maintaining anonymity becomes a priority.

While the Gezi movement strictly encourages only peaceful protests, sometimes resistance is necessary so the activists can escape immediate danger. I can only advise you to make the teargas a priority and to remember that the Gezi Park protestors’ main goal is to engage in a peaceful protest and to spread the word of their cause.

Much of what happens in Turkey does not get seen by western media- you may be familiar with the CNN Penguin scandal- and so it becomes a duty for me and others to disseminate information about the protest as frequently as possible and in whatever means possible so as to avoid interference from the authorities.

Social media is critical.

Marauder’s brothers and sisters; Never lose hope.

COLLECTION MOOD

Within this collection are two lines of footwear that, while being designed for very different urban contexts, are united by several key elements.

The Urban Warriors footwear: Armor against elements

Adaptability

Lightweight

Must be constructed of materials that offer enhanced protective and performance properties for the wearer.

Must be adaptable to a variety of situations and contexts; serving a dual purpose both as a shoe and as a functional accessory.

Must be lighweight so as to allow for running and rapid movement.

Structural support

Function over form

A dual aegis

Must have enough structural support to provide physical protection against personal injury or damage to the shoe from environmental factors.

Must have a design that is informed by functionality rather than aesthetic styling.

Must provide the wearer with physical protection as well as the feeling of psychological protection; a ‘comfort zone’.

The Chapuller; The Chapuller is prepared for an uncertain future. They see a world before them in which rebellion, protest and social uprising are on the horizon. Socially aware and forever alert, the chapuller scans the modern world for signs that we as a society are losing controlknowing that one day they may have to protect themselves from a yet unidentified threat. Both today and in to the future, the cities and streets within which the modern Chapuller wanders may become more like battlefields than typical pastoral suburban environments.

The shoes that adorn the chapullers feet must be versatile, flexible, purposeful and an extension of their body and their personality.

If caught in a situation of social uprising, your shoes must allow you to be a warrior, a reporter, a medic and a social networker.

Your shoes must be the perfect response to the battleground metaphor that is our urban metropolis.

PROTECTUS

The Techninja; Like the Chapuller, the techninja seeks protection from an uncertain future. The modern environment is a transitional space in which there are many psychological dangers present. Thus one of the main priorities of the techninja becomes ‘arming’ themselves with a ‘uniform’ that will provide them with protection from the real dangers as well as the percieved ones. The techninja blends effortlessly into a sea of urbanites and is careful to not appear different from ordinary city life. They do not wear clothes that are elaborate or glamorous to the naked eye; choosing instead clothing and shoes that allows them to fade into obscurity.

The shoes that you, the techninja, will wear are just as much about psychological protection as they are about physical protection. They are a flexible form of urban armour; a secure and defensible space with which you can respond to a future that is unpredictable.

ARMA

19-4305 tpx Pirate Black

19-0506 tpx Black ink

19-4007 tpx Anthracite

18-4005 tpx Steel grey

14-4501 tpx Silver lining

13-4909 tpx Blue light

16-1356 tpx Persimmon

18-5718 tpx Smoke pine

14-5002 tpx 19-4007 tpx Silver reflective Reflective

Silver lining

Silver reflective

Blue light

Steel grey

Black reflective

Smoke Pine

Anthracite Black ink Pirate black Base colours

Detail colours

Persimmon Pop colours

TREND ANALYSIS Fashion/footwear/social

The modern ninja • Garments that provide a physical and psychological shield • Garments that protect ones identity • Blurring the lines between a fashion piece and a uniform

Nas ‘Grunge’ collection SS14

Boris Bidjan Saberi AW12

Maharishi SS13

Fortification and modernisation

• Imbuing everyday garments with technical and performance fabrics • Leaving no part of the body vulnerable • Adaptable to a variety of situations and environments

Black Seriex AW14

Christopher Raeburn AW13

Christopher Raeburn AW13

Accessories for an uncertain future

CP Company SS12

• Creating a union between style and function • Garments that position themselves in the future through the use of new silhouettes and advanced materials • An aesthetic thats draws inspiration from protective clothing, tactical workwear and hazard suits Undercoverism AW13

Boris Bidjan Saberi AW13

Minimal sock-like construction

Nike

Nike

Nike

Technical materials and fabrics

Adidas Y-3

Perforated and breathable uppers

Nike Adidas Y-3 Nike

Shielded and armoured uppers

Adidas

Performance-inspired aesthetic

Nike

Adidas

Camper

Yohji Yamamoto

Activism and uprising

• 2013 saw many cities and countries enter in to states of social unrest and uprising due to resentment against the authorities • Violence against the authorities is strongly discouraged. The use of teargas and rubber bullets sometimes provokes retaliation • The protestors rely heavily on social media to spread the message of their cause

Anonymity and affiliation

There is an underlying fear that now and in the future, our identities will be under threat. In the digital age, protecting your identity and affiliating yourself with like-minded people becomes a necessity. We want to protect who we are as an individual, but we also want to belong

Urban nomadism

• It is not only interpersonal relationship among urban nomads themselves but also their socio-cultural, economical and spatial location that defines them • Permanent connectivity, not motion, is the critical thing • Accessorising the body for survival

CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT

ed One-piece upper + rugg tooling

k Snap-loc s fastening ise to minim sition n a r t e im t een time betw ’ tion ‘adapta

Layered panelling

Sealed fast enings/ lacing to p rotect foot from enviro nmental risks

Heavily textured lugs on outsole for traction

Letting the function dictate the form

Layering components to conceal technology and make user feel protected

1. Neoprene 2. YKK AQUASEAL® W-seal zipper 3. GORE-TEX® membrane 4. Respirator mask 5. Schoeller®-keprotec® 6. Mesh 7. TPU 8. Schoeller®-reflex 9. GORE-TEX® membrane 10. Injection molded Phylon EVA 11. Carbon rubber 12. TPU

Urban Warrior footwear Season: SS14 Collection: Protectus Style: High Article #: P1 Date: 15/11/2013 Designer: L.W

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1. Neoprene 2. Mesh 3. Respirator unit 4. TPU 5. GORE-TEX速 membrane 6. Silicone rubber 7. Molded TPU 8. Perspex

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Refer to figure A. for example of buckle and snaplock system

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Urban Warrior footwear Season: SS14 Collection: Protectus Style: High Article #: P1a Date: 15/11/2013 Designer: L.W

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Figure A.

1. Neoprene 2. YKK AQUASEAL® W-seal zipper 3. GORE-TEX® membrane 4. USB Camera attachment 5. Schoeller®-keprotec® 6. Kangaroo leather 7. TPU 8. Schoeller®-reflex 9. GORE-TEX® membrane 10. Injection molded Phylon EVA 11. Carbon rubber 12. TPU 13. Mesh

Urban Warrior footwear Season: SS14 Collection: Protectus Style: Mid Article #: P2 Date: 15/11/2013 Designer: L.W

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1. Neoprene 2. Neoprene 3. Neoprene 4. YKK AQUASEAL® W-seal zipper 5. Water membrane/ Schoeller®-keprotec® 6. Mesh 7. TPU 8. Schoeller®-reflex 9. GORE-TEX® membrane 10. Injection molded Phylon EVA 11. Carbon rubber 12. TPU

Urban Warrior footwear Season: SS14 Collection: Protectus Style: Zip/ quick release Article #: P3 Date: 15/11/2013 Designer: L.W

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1. Neoprene 2. Neoprene 3. Mesh 4. Injected Phylon EVA

Urban Warrior footwear Season: SS14 Collection: Protectus Style: Zip/ quick release Article #: P3a Date: 15/11/2013 Designer: L.W

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1. Neoprene 2. YKK AQUASEAL® W-seal zipper 3. Mesh 4. Pollution mask attachment 5. Schoeller®-reflex 6. TPU 7. Kangaroo leather 8. GORE-TEX® membrane 9. Schoeller®-reflex 10. Carbon rubber 11. Injection molded Phylon EVA 12. GORE-TEX® membrane

Urban Warrior footwear Season: SS14 Collection: Arma Style: Zip Article #: A1 Date: 15/11/2013 Designer: L.W

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1. Neoprene 2. Schoeller®-reflex 3. Schoeller®-keprotec® 4. Schoeller®-keprotec® 5. Schoeller®-reflex 6. Mesh 7. Kangaroo leather 8. TPU 9. Schoeller®-reflex 10. Carbon rubber 11. Injection molded Phylon EVA 12. Anodised mild steel 13. C02 Monitor attachment 14. Kangaroo leather 15. GORE-TEX® membrane 16. GORE-TEX® membrane

Urban Warrior footwear Season: SS14 Collection: Arma Style: Buckle Article #: A2 Date: 15/11/2013 Designer: L.W

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1. Neoprene 2. YKK AQUASEAL® W-seal zipper 3. Tight-knit mesh 4. Mesh 5. GORE-TEX® membrane 6. TPU 7. Schoeller®-reflex 8. GORE-TEX® membrane 9. Schoeller®-reflex 10. Carbon rubber 11. Injection molded Phylon EVA 12. Kangaroo leather

Urban Warrior footwear Season: SS14 Collection: Arma Style: Zip/ quick release Article #: A3 Date: 15/11/2013 Designer: L.W

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1. Neoprene 2. Neoprene 3. Mesh 4. Injected Phylon EVA 5. Neoprene

Urban Warrior footwear Season: SS14 Collection: Arma Style: Zip/ quick release Article #: A3a Date: 15/11/2013 Designer: L.W

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PATTERN TRIALS AND PROTOTYPING

LINE PLAN

Protectus

Warrior

Sentry

Guardian

Participle prōtēctus (feminine prōtēcta, neuter prōtēctum); 1. covered 2. protected 3. defended

Style: Zip Silhouette: High Size range: 41-47

Base colours 19-4007 tpx

19-4305 tpx

Style: Zip Silhouette: Mid Size range: 37-47 19-4007 tpx 13-4909 tpx

19-0506 tpx 18-4005 tpx Pop colours

Style: Zip/ Quick release Silhouette: Low adaptive Size range: 37-47 19-4007 tpx 16-1356 tpx

19-4007 tpx 18-5718 tpx Pop colours

Pop colours

Arma

Noun arma (genitive armōrum); second declension 1. defensive arms 2. armor/armour 3. shields 4. weapons of war

Style: Zip Silhouette: Mid Size range: 37-47

Base colours 19-4007 tpx

19-4305 tpx

Style: Buckle Silhouette: Low Size range: 37-47 14-5002 tpx

18-4005 tpx 14-4501 tpx Pop colours

Style: Zip/ Quick release Silhouette: Low adaptive Size range: 37-47 14-5002 tpx 18-5718 tpx

13-4909 tpx Pop colours

14-5002 tpx 16-1356 tpx Pop colours

COLLECTION OVERVIEW

The Warrior

-Detachable teargas mask -Waterproof neoprene shield -Low-profile cushioning -Flame-retardant trim -Lightweight outsole -Reflective rear panel

Consumer profile: Cunning and able to slip in to obscurity, this individual will place themself in great danger for the purpose of spreading word of their cause to whomever may be watching and listening. They are incredibly selfless and socially aware; acting as a conduit between the chapullers and the outside world so that messages- not propaganda- can be distributed.

The Guardian

- Reusable eye-flushing kit for teargas victims -Goretex/neoprene upper -Low-profile cushioning -Flame-retardant trim -Reflective rear panel

The Sentry

-Detachable USB camera -Waterproof neoprene shield -Low-profile cushioning -Flame-retardant trim -Lightweight outsole -Reflective rear panel

Consumer profile: Though not violent or aggressive, the user will typically be at the heart of the unrest either due to unfortunate timing or through organised demonstrations. They are the defenders.

Typically the user will fall into the young adult age category as it largely this age group that are at the heart of most of the civilian uprisings that occur. It is not their task to provoke, rather they are considered the last line of defense; allowing those not involved in the uprising to flee without risk of danger.

Consumer profile:

These individuals are incredibly selfless- placing themselves at great risk to ensure the safety of others who may become injured or overwhelmed by teargas in the event of an uprising. They are healthy and strong individuals that are positioned strategically to allow them to remove injured people from danger as quick as possible.

The Warrior

-Detachable pollution mask -Breathable mesh liner -Low-profile cushioning -Waterproof trim -Rugged outsole with a flexible midfoot -Reflective rear panel

Consumer profile: A constant state of spatial awareness is a characteristic of this consumer. They are also incredibly socially minded and they want to share their knowledge with those around them. Living in an urban environment, they form networks with other people who are as spatially aware as them and begin sharing information and knowledge.

The Guardian -Removable inner bootie --Low-profile cushioning -Waterproof trim -Rugged outsole with a flexible midfoot -Reflective rear panel

The Sentry Consumer profile:

This consumer is typically living in a heavily urbanised environment. Young and active, this individual is on the movewhether it be for work or pleasure. They are incredibly in touch with the urban environment around them and they understand the risks and hazards it can contain. They want to protect themselves accordingly.

-Rechargeable C02 monitor -Military-inspired buckle system -Low-profile cushioning -Waterproof trim -Rugged outsole with a flexible midfoot -Reflective rear panel

Consumer profile:

This consumer places a strong emphasis on finding the right balance between work and play. They work hard, but they want to keep active and fit too. They are adaptable, resourceful individuals for whom achieving goals in both work and play is essential to their wellbeing.

Urban Warrior Footwear

BRANDING AND MARKETING STRATEGY

BRANDING THROUGH ANONYMITY Successful brands have core principles, icons, rituals, a specialized vocabulary they use to describe themselves, a paradoxical ideal they struggle against, as well as a founding mythos and leader. In other words, the building blocks of community and Brand.

Brands are communities of people driven by a common belief.

Tell a story that creates a connection

Develop trust by responding to needs

Engage in a dialogue with the consumer

Create a clear visual language

URBAN WARRIOR FOOTWEAR

KEY CONSUMER TRIGGERS MINIMAL-WASTE CONSTRUCTION

TAILORED FIT

THE HUMAN ELEMENT

UNIQUE MATERIALS

VERSATILE TOOLING

KICKSTARTER: CROWDSOURCING TOWARDS A GOAL As social awareness about the civil uprisings occurring globally reach a fever pitch, people feel compelled to help.

A Kickstarter campaign would provide a means for people to contribute to the movement in a more engaging way.

Instead of just donating money without seeing the end result, a Kickstarter campaign provides those who have a desire to contribute to the cause with a physical end goal to reach.

Using the social media triangle as a means to communicate with the consumer throughout ALL stages of the project.

SHORT-TERM

MID-TERM

LONG-TERM

SOCIAL DISTRIBUTION CHANNELS

EVERY SHOE TELLS A STORY