405 Magazine October 2018

WAKE-UP CALL A COFFEE SUPPLY SAMPLER

AT HOME WITH HISTORY GO TOURING IN HERITAGE HILLS

Living Core in the

WHERE TO EAT, DRINK, SHOP / PICKING THE BEST PARTS / WHAT’S COMING

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Every space is filled with untapped possibility. To fit more than you can imagine. To function better than you’d believe. From custom closets to allpurpose storage, the transformation begins at The Container Store, now open in Oklahoma City at Penn Square.

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in this issue

OCTOBER 2018

Feature 34

CORE CONCEPTS Once divided between commuting workers and stretches of deserted silence, OKC’s urban core has been booming since the passage of MAPS. Now with more places than ever to eat, drink, shop and live, the heart of the city is brimming with vitality.

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405 MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2018

If You Were Alive In 1981, You Were Around When: ■ Muhammad Ali retired; ■ IBM launched its first PC; ■ The first Millenial was born; ■ Ronald Reagan became president; ■ MTV aired music videos for the first time; ■ Pope John Paul II was shot in Vatican City; ■ “Raiders of the Lost Ark” debuted in theaters;

■ Trust Company of Oklahoma was founded with the sole mission of acting in its clients’ best interests.

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in this issue

OCTOBER 2018

In the 405

17 Intriguing fall fashions; tempting gifts at No Regrets; suggested shopping for coffee lovers; Oklahoma’s status as king of the road; nervous laughs from haunted hotels; beyond the veil with Phyllis Maxey

Territory Ahead

30 Woody Guthrie and

Harbor Watch Mist rises around the floating inhabitants of Wisconsin’s peaceful Lake Geneva, marking a new day of cruising, swimming, hiking or simply relaxing and watching the birds go by for the town’s human visitors.

the song of the “Michigan Massacre”

Travel

47 Why Wisconsin’s Lake Geneva makes an exquisite getaway

Dining

53 Klemm’s Germanflavored barbecue; a spicy family recipe from Goro’s chef; savor a Mayan-style delicacy at 1492; Ponyboy’s hot and cold coffee cocktails

Events

63 OKC Ballet heads down the rabbit hole; the past lives on the Heritage Hills Home Tour; Artspace parties with an Exquisite Corpse

In Every Issue

12 From the Publisher 14 Web Sights 58 Food and Drink 66 Speakerbox 68 On the Radar 72 Backstory

ON THE COVER

OKC’s core bustles with development and life. Photo by Andrew G. Image.com

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VOLUME 4 / NUMBER 10, 405 MAGAZINE (PERIODICALS 21350) IS PUBLISHED MONTHLY, 12 TIMES A YEAR, BY 405 MAGAZINE, INC., 1613 NORTH BROADWAY AVENUE, OKLAHOMA CITY, OK 73103. PERIODICALS POSTAGE PAID AT OKLAHOMA CITY, OK AND ADDITIONAL MAILING OFFICES. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO 405 MAGAZINE, P.O. BOX 16765, NORTH HOLLYWOOD, CA 91615-6765.

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405 MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2018

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EDITORIAL Managing Editor Steve Gill steve.gill@405magazine.com

The Right Path

Style Editor Sara Gae Waters saragae.waters@405magazine.com Travel Editor Matt Payne matt.payne@405magazine.com

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405.942.1234 405.246.0404 972.377.2850

Fashion Director Jennifer Salyer jennifer.salyer@405magazine.com Contributing Writers M.J. Alexander, Mark Beutler, Jerry Church, Greg Horton, Lauren Roth, Elaine Warner

ART Art Director Scotty O’Daniel scotty.odaniel@405magazine.com Graphic Designer Brian O’Daniel brian.odaniel@405magazine.com Contributing Photographers M.J. Alexander, Shannon Cornman, Charlie Neuenschwander, Don Risi, Trace Thomas

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VOLUME 4 • NUMBER 10

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405 Magazine Volume 4, Number 10, October 2018. 405 Magazine is published monthly by 405 Magazine, Inc. at 1613 N. Broadway, Oklahoma City, OK 73103, 405.842.2266. © Copyright 2018 405 Magazine, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction of 405 Magazine content, in whole or part by any means, without the express written consent of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

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405 MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2018

PHOTO BY SIMON HURST

TO T HOSE W HO A R E N EW ER to the metro area, it may come as a bit of a surprise to realize that just a few decades ago, vast numbers of Oklahoma City denizens flocked to the outskirts of town or suburbs to the north and west. Bricktown was practically a ghost town. Life in the core was all but nonexistent. I don’t believe what we call “the core” today even had a name then – and it definitely wasn’t the core of anything.

To put it mildly, things have changed. Thanks to city officials, business leaders, like-minded developers and passionate citizens, here we are: living in the core, working in the core and, for some of us, rarely leaving the core. We have a record number of hotel units in the downtown area, as well as residential spaces, more restaurants opening doors with offerings as diverse as the patrons who frequent them, an abundance of local retailers and service providers and even schools – John Rex Charter School, Oklahoma City University School of Law and The Academy of Contemporary Music at University of Central Oklahoma are a few of the area’s more recent additions.

It would appear that many citizens who had been ensconced in the suburbs are doing an about-face and putting their sprawling properties on the market, hoping to downsize and relocate downtown, or very close to it. Once a dark, desolate center to the capital city, Oklahoma City’s core now bustles with activity from sunup to sundown – and thereafter.

Evening and weekend offerings are numerous, and growth doesn’t seem to be slowing a bit.

This truly is a great time to live in Oklahoma City and experience all it has to offer. Look no further than Greg Horton’s article “Core Concepts” (pg. 34) to learn more about where we are, how far we’ve come and where we are headed. Greg also has the advantage of firsthand knowledge on the topic, since he also lives, works and socializes in the core.

With that said, there’s also plenty happening outside the center of OKC this month, such as the beautiful and idea-inspiring Nichols Hills Kitchen Tour on Oct. 14. Speaking of cooking, Oktoberfest technically lasts through Oct. 7, making this a perfect time to head up to Klemm’s Smoke Haus in Edmond for barbeque with a German flair (pg. 54). And if you’re planning to leave the city altogether in the coming months, Elaine Warner has a trove of ideas for you in Wisconsin’s Lake Geneva. Hiking, fishing, lake cruising and downtown dining – to include a little history lesson – are only a few of the many magical offerings in the “Newport of the West” (pg. 48).

Near or far, there’s plenty to look forward to before Halloween arrives to end the month – don’t be afraid to get out and try something new.

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RICKOCTOBER McCLURE 11-25

Web Sights What’s online at 405magazine.com

Multi-platinum rapper Nas at the invitation-only event.

“Water’s Edge”

NBA Summer Jam

The Thunder are roaring back onto the court this month – their first preseason game is Oct. 3, and they tip off the regular season Oct. 16 at Golden State. But it was some sweet moves made during the offseason that make this year look like it might shape up to be something special. Relive some of the good vibes from PG13’s re-signing announcement by visiting 405magazine.com/ October-2018/Thunder-Summer-House-Party/ for some behindthe-scenes pics from their Summer Hype House Party bash.

Spice World

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405 MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2018

Bland food is nobody’s friend, and Jeff Chanchaleune has lived his whole life at a 5-out-of-5 spice level. The innovator behind Kaiteki Ramen and now executive chef at Goro shares the story of his lifelong journey through food on page 56, but a few of the more savory details, such as his favorite fast food options and the special sauce that makes his mother’s ginger chicken recipe sing, can only be found online. Head to 405magazine.com/ October-2018/Chef-Jeffs-Spicy-Life/ for the full serving.

King-Size Prize There are lots of October giveaways and deals, but while some other prizes are a bit like being given a handful of Smarties and a Bit-OHoney, this is the big package of Kit-Kats: Our Friday $50 giveaway rolls on this month, giving one reader per week a gift certificate to a featured local restaurant. Participating is free; just visit 405magazine.com/newsletters/ to sign up, keep an eye on your inbox and click the link in our e-newsletters to enter. We’ll draw a new winner each Friday, and you don’t even need to wear a costume.

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405 MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2018

M E L A N I A C L A R A | J O H N N Y WA S | P E N D L E TO N | K L E E N | A L E M B I K A | C U T L O O S E | TA R A G A S PA R I A N | M E L A N I A C L A R A

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in the

PHOTO BY CHARLIE NEUENSCHWANDER

Black, White and Beyond An eye-catching possibility for seasonal intrigue: N by Nancy short sleeve dropped-waist black dress with pearl detail, $98, worn with chunky tribal necklace and earrings, $29, both from Jonque Mode.

OCTOBER 2018 405 MAGAZINE

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in the 405 FASHION

Join the Masquerade Define your stylish identity

BY JENNIFER SALYER PHOTO BY CHARLIE NEUENSCHWANDER

I N T HIS SE A SON of masks, mystery and parties

both casual and elegant, you can make yourself – and the ensemble you show the world – anything you want.

Identity might seem like a black-and-white issue, but it’s the details and colors in between that add intrigue. As Halloween approaches, what do you want your look to be?

Special Thanks to: The Magnolia, Taylor Mauk Hair and Makeup for Malorie Avaline Salon, Model Westie Sparks with MMG Agency in New York City

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405 MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2018

Sheer long sleeve Jealous Tomato dress, with pinstripes against a floral print, $55 from Jonque Mode Dee Keller “Paige” embroidered pump, $385 from Betsy King Shoes Jonque Mode, 2924 Paseo, OKC Betsy King Shoes, 3001 Paseo, OKC

in the 405 FAVORITE THINGS

Shopping Satisfaction Merchandise with No Regrets IF YOU ’R E L OOK I NG to go right to

“fun” in the retail arena, No Regrets, located at 9219 N Penn in Casady Square, is the place for you. Back in 2012, Judy Neville and Sherri Simon – both of whom had been in retail for quite some time – decided they were definitely up for a new venture, and purchased this well-rounded store from Michelle Ellis. No Regrets boasts a wide variety of merchandise, from beautiful accessories for your home to gift items of every kind for literally every person in your life. Quality “treat yourself” items that make you forget exactly who you are there to buy for are also on hand, as well as the most beautiful selection of stationery and invitations for every imaginable occasion. Monogramming and personalization of all of these things puts them at the next level as far as quality and specialty.

“Honesty and good customer service” are the most important things to Sherri and Judy in how they do business, and that is exactly what you get: friendly smiles and a genuine interest in helping you find what you need make just being there pleasant.

This is definitely a store that lives up to its name … you’ll have No Regrets whatsoever about shopping here. - SAR A GAE WATERS

Judy Neville and Sherri Simon

Haute Papier Letterpress stationery, prices vary “A fun, bright and colorful way to send your message.”

Mova globes: small, $160; large, $260 “Makes an excellent gift, especially for a man. It is powered by ambient light.”

Dream diffuser, $98 “The most beautiful diffuser we have found, with a delightful scent.”

Julie Vos Jewelry: necklace, $395; bracelet, $330 “One of our favorite jewelry lines, with great craftmanship and pretty stones.”

Jelly Cats animal, $25; book, $14 “This is the number one baby gift in our store, because it’s a great combination.”

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405 MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2018

Elizabeth W sachets and hot & cold packs, each $50 “Silk patterns with a lovely scent, they make a great gift for any occasion.”

Malibu Lux throw - $140-$145 “A luxurious, lightweight, beautiful throw.”

PHOTOS BY DON RISI

Freshly Picked moccasins, $60 “A baby favorite for our customers.”

in the 405 TRENDS

Brew Believer Heeding the call of coffee

From Plenty Mercantile (clockwise) CoffeeSock filter, $13.99; Chemex coffee maker, $46.99; Flatlander Coffee Co. beans, $19.99; Coffee grinder, $34.99; Reusable glass cup, $27

A R E YOU A BEL IE V ER? In coffee? Usually, you’re either in or out; not many people are in between on the subject. If you’re really into it, or just starting to expand your knowledge, it’s deliciously easy to get lost in the many options of how to go about getting your fix: cold brew, pour over, press or drip? Then there are seemingly endless possibilities in filters, appliances for grinding your own coffee and mugs … oh, so many mugs. Here’s a little starter pack of some items you can acquire to maybe try something new, or to help feed that obsession. - SAR A GAE WATERS

From Culinary Kitchen Simax coffee press, $28; Insulated coffee mug, $29.99; Striped coffee mug, $7.50

Blue Seven, 7518 N May, OKC, myblueseven.com; Culinary Kitchen, 7222 N Western, OKC, culinarykitchen.com; Plenty Mercantile, 807 N Broadway, OKC, plentymercantile.com

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405 MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2018

PHOTOS BY SCOTTY O’DANIEL

From Blue Seven (clockwise) BREW: Better Coffee at Home book, $24.99; Cold brew mason jar filter, $39.99; Vintage inspired drip coffeepot, $75.99; “The adventure begins” coffee mug, $14.97

in the 405 OKLAHOMYTHS

Big Wheels Oklahoma’s rubber meets the road of history OK L A HOM A’S HISTORY of

tire-making stretches back nearly a century. The state’s first tire plant – the U.S. Compression Inner Tube Company – was located between Sand Springs and Tulsa, and made car tires and what was advertised as a puncture-proof inner tube beginning in 1919.

In the waning days of World War II, B. F. Goodrich opened a tire plant in Miami, Oklahoma; the Ottawa County Historical Society notes the plant operated around the clock, seven days a week, for 40 years until closing on Feb. 28, 1986. In 1970, Dayton Tire opened a plant northeast of SW 29th and Council in OKC, which made a reported 26,200 tires a day before closing in 2006.

Still operating are two longtime, high-capacity Oklahoma tire makers: Lawton’s Goodyear factory, built in 1978, with the ability to make up to 64,500 tires per day, and Ardmore’s tire plant, built in 1969 by Uniroyal and acquired by Michelin in 1990. Despite suffering major damage in a 1995 tornado, the plant bounced back and reopened after a month of repairs. If operating at full capacity, the plant could produce up to 44,000 tires per day.

THE CLAIM: “Oklahoma is literally where the rubber meets the road. With companies such as Dayton, Michelin and Goodyear, the state is North America’s leading tire manufacturer.”

SOURCE: Oklahoma Department of Commerce, okcommerce. gov, published July 23, 2007 FACT CHECK: Once true, now false.

“Oklahoma makes more tires than any other state in the nation,” Gov. Brad Henry declared at the 2003 news conference announcing Michelin’s $144 million investment to increase capacity at its Ardmore plant. At the time, he was right. But bragging rights as the nation’s top tire-making state have since changed hands.

Beginning in the fourth quarter of 2013, South Carolina’s tire output surpassed that of Oklahoma. Factories in the Palmetto State created 89,000 tires per day, edging out Oklahoma’s daily production of 88,000, according to the industry publication Tire Business. In the years since, South Carolina has widened its lead, and has been crowned by Automotive News as “the tire capital of North America.”

South Carolina was slower to the tire business, but has made up for lost time. Its first Michelin radial rolled off the line in Greenville on March 10, 1975, and that plant’s success – coupled with convenient shipping abroad out of the Port of Charleston and aggressive incentives from the state, which had sought a new manufacturing base after its textile industry faded – attracted additional tire makers.

The January 2018 edition of Modern Tire Dealer lists 62 North American tire factories, including Oklahoma’s Lawton and Ardmore plants and 12 in South Carolina. Among the South Carolina manufacturers are French-based Michelin, Japan’s Bridgestone, Germany’s Continental, Singapore’s Giti and Trelleborg of Sweden. Planned, but now delayed, is a billion-dollar factory promised by Wanli Tire Corp. of China, with an annual capacity of 6 million units. The wheel of time keeps on turning. - M.J. ALEX ANDER Editor’s note: Oklahoma is rich with history, lore and fun facts, but some of them aren’t quite factual. In this series, M.J. Alexander hunts for the accuracy – or lack thereof – behind some of our state’s stories.

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405 MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2018

in the 405 LAUGH LINES

My Favorite Haunts Sightseeing with spooks NOT HI NG SAYS “pass the Geritol” like this sentence, but I’m headed to the East Coast this month to see the fall foliage anyway. By New England standards, October is a little past the peak of color, but Mr. Roth and I will be right on time for the peak of … the haunting season.

Pick any public place and I can tell you if it’s haunted within a millisecond. I’ve been honing that gift since childhood. My nightly fear – and I do mean nightly – was that a ghost would emerge from my closet and stand next to my bed. The specter only got a night off when, depending on what terror-filled movie I’d seen before bedtime, his role would played by any one of a coven of substitutes in my imagination: a vampire, a wild animal or maybe an escaped convict with an axe to grind, literally.

No amount of reassurance from my mom would comfort me.

“There’s no such thing as ghosts,” she would say. She was wrong – our Ouija board confirmed it. They obviously didn’t hover in her closet or lurk under her bed.

Antique stores have always given me the creeps. It’s never my idea to go into one, but whenever I do, I instantly have the sensation that I can’t breathe. I’ll insist that the place is haunted as I make a beeline out the door.

A couple of years ago, I went with two co-workers for a professional conference being held at the Omni Parker House, a “historic” (that should be your first tipoff) hotel in downtown Boston. The moment we walked inside, I clutched my chest like Fred Sanford. I was suffocating. “This place is as haunted as Grandma’s cellar!” I announced.

“What just made you say that? I’m terrified of ghosts!” my co-worker asked.

“You can’t feel that?” I asked her in disbelief. “I’m taking pictures with my phone tonight and I’ll prove it to you. Look at the hair on my arms! We’re in Orb City.”

The hallway that led to our hotel room was stifling. I could feel it closing in on me as we walked to our doom … er, room.

“We’re shackin’ up with the Caspers tonight,” I warned her.

After exploring the area and enjoying a lovely dinner, the three of us returned to the hotel lobby just as a Paul Revere character was hosting the Haunted Boston Ghost Tour. Our hotel was a popular stop on the tour, made famous by all the paranormal activity reported by employees and guests. “You’re standing in the most haunted hotel in Boston,” Paul told the group of tourists.

Mmm hmmmm. I knew it. My co-workers gasped as Paul Revere called out the numbers of the most haunted rooms of

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405 MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2018

Boston’s haunted hotel, which turned out to be every room surrounding ours. We were even right next door to the inspiration for a Stephen King short story – room 303 was notorious for a handful of guests who had “checked out” while staying inside it.

The entire third floor is said to be “very active,” but we made it through the week with nothing more than a scathing case of the heebie-jeebies.

On many occasions, I’ve felt spirit activity in hotels where I’ve stayed. Without exception, they’ve been older hotels – and I’ve noticed that the cheaper the hotel, the more spooks (in every sense) it has. Usually, I can feel something pinning me down and sucking all the air out of my lungs as I sleep. This is often called “sleep paralysis,” but it has a funny way of occurring only when I’m sleeping in an old hotel that teeters on being a dive. I think I’d get a better night’s sleep if TripAdvisor had a special filter called “sort by hauntedness.”

For the foliage tour, we’ll start in Boston (the epicenter of creepiness) before driving up the New England coast. We’ll stay in the small B&Bs that dot the two-lane highways, and I fully expect that we won’t be alone in any room we book. I’m sure the ghosts, vampires, escaped convicts and wild animals of my childhood will be lurking in every closet. - LAUREN ROTH

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in the 405

Beyond the Veil?

Phyllis Maxey speaks to the other side T HIS T I M E OF Y E A R , thoughts often turn to ghosts and goblins and things not of this world. But OKC resident Phyllis Maxey gets into the Halloween spirit every day of the year – not because she loves the holiday so much; because she regularly communicates with the spirit world.

It’s a gift Maxey said she has had a long as she can remember.

Whether she’s called a psychic, a medium or an energy worker, the bottom line is her avowed ability to communicate with the other side.

“I can hear the spirits and having them around me all the time is normal to me,” she says. “It’s not a shock, it is not intrusive, it just is.”

Maxey said she is always connected to the spirit world, just as connected as she is to the physical world around her.

“When I’m working with a client, that is when I actually see and feel the spirit side come through and speak through me.

That way the spirits, through me, can guide the client to what they need to know and do, and this is where I do channeling.”

And no one is ever truly alone, Maxey said.

“When you enter a room with 10 people, for example, you also may end up with 40 spirits trying to communicate with their living people,” she said. “Not all the spirits acknowledge me. But

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I do end up getting a sense of what those living people are going through and dealing with.”

Not all spirits are like Casper the Friendly Ghost, nor are they all screaming “Go into the light, Carol Anne.” Most are just the run-of-the-mill person whose energy has shifted, and they are simply trying to communicate with or help their loves ones still on Earth.

“Just like humans, not all sprits or beings are created equally,” Maxey says. “If a spirit scares me, I turn to my spirit guides and they give me the answer I need to help me get through it.”

These days, Maxey said, she finds people are more enlightened and open to new thoughts and ideas. As a result, people are no longer afraid of mediums, and she can grow her gifts – because she feels that she can now share them with others.

“I feel some people are built to deal with the spirit world when they are born,” she says. “And others are there to live their human lives and have a spiritual connection through their religion or the divine, and that’s how they connect with the spirit world.”

And what about the skeptics?

“A lot of people don’t want to know or understand the other side,” she admits. “But if I have a skeptic as a client, I have never seen them leave still being a skeptic. At the same time, I will not go up to anyone who is a skeptic and try to change their minds.

If they don’t ask, I don’t tell. I have very strong boundaries between myself and others. I have clients from all walks of life, from nuns to lawyers and everything in between. And I am happy to share my gift with those who need me.” - MARK BEUTLER

PHOTO BY CHARLIE NEUENSCHWANDER

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territory ahead

Italian Hall was demolished in 1984. Its entrance arch now stands in a memorial park in the center of Calumet.

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STRUCK DOWN Woody Guthrie and the Michigan Massacre

BY M.J. ALEX ANDER

AGL OW I N A DA R K E N ED room at the heart of

the Woody Guthrie Center in Tulsa, a giant backlit map of the continental United States beckons visitors to investigate the towns and byways of “Woody’s America.”

The interactive exhibit explores the history behind the stories of Woody Guthrie’s iconic songs – from California to the New York island, from the redwood forests to the Gulf Stream waters, and the roads in between.

Oddly, the map does not include Michigan’s Upper Peninsula – an especially curious omission since it was there, 105 years ago, that a deadly Christmas Eve incident would inspire one of Guthrie’s most memorable ballads: “1913 Massacre.”

Three identical markers in Calumet’s Lakeview Cemetery stand over the graves of the Klarich sisters - Kristina, 11, Maria, 9, and Katarina, 7 - who died together in the narrow stairway of Calumet’s Italian Hall.

Five months into the strike, the women’s auxiliary of the Western Federation of Miners organized an afternoon Christmas Eve party for the miners and their families. On the second floor of the town’s Italian Hall, a Christmas tree was lit, piano pieces were played, Santa visited and small gifts were distributed to dozens of children. For many, it would be the only present they would get for the holiday.

The dirge-like song begins: Take a trip with me in 1913, To Calumet, Michigan, in the Copper Country.

I’ll take you to a place called Italian Hall, And the miners are having their big Christmas ball…

Guthrie’s fourth verse described the scene: There’s talking and laughing and songs in the air, And the spirit of Christmas is there everywhere, Before you know it you’re friends with us all, And you’re dancing around and around in the hall…

Boom times for copper mining in Michigan began in the 1840s, powered by the brawn of immigrants who would descend into the mine shafts and tunnels, working by candlelight or in virtual darkness to wrest ore from the earth in 10- to 12-hour shifts, six days a week, for pay ranging from $1.50 to $3 a day.

Demand grew with the spread of copper wires in industrialization, electrification and communication. Michigan became the nation’s largest producer of copper. Along the way, thousands of miners died – in fires, rock falls, shaft plunges, machinery accidents and misfired explosives.

By the summer of 1913, more than 9,000 miners unionized and asked for safety precautions, a raise and shorter work weeks. The mining companies refused to acknowledge the demands or meet for discussions, prompting the Copper Country’s first strike on July 23, 1913.

The mood changed when a man twice shouted – falsely – that there was a fire in the hall. In the panic to retreat down the steep staircase to the street, people were smothered and crushed by the weight of others trying to flee.

Within minutes, 73 people were killed – and 59 of the dead were children, as young as 2.

In his book Death’s Door: The Truth Behind Michigan’s Largest Mass Murder, attorney Steve Lehto reports the man who cried fire worked as a supporter of the anti-union Citizens’ Alliance, and that the doors appeared to be blocked from the outside, preventing an escape from within. Investigations at the time were slipshod, and no charges were filed.

T E NSION A N D T R AGEDY As the months dragged on and

winter set in, tensions rose. Belts were tightened. James MacNaughton, general manager of the Calumet and Hecla Mining Company, declared: “Grass will grow in the streets before C&H recognizes the union. The union must be killed at all cost.”

Protests were met by National Guardsmen, deputized strike breakers and company-funded anti-union rallies.

Guthrie’s final verses conclude: Such a terrible sight I never did see, We carried our children back up to their tree, The scabs outside still laughed at their spree, And the children that died there were seventy-three.

The piano played a slow funeral tune, And the town was lit up by a cold Christmas moon, The parents they cried and the miners they moaned, ‘See what your greed for money has done.’

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A STRONG BODY IS NOT MADE IN COMFORT

territory ahead

Visitors examine the Woody’s America map at the Woody Guthrie Center, which opened at 102 E. Brady St., Tulsa, in the Italian Hall Disaster’s centennial year.

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Written by Guthrie after reading an account of the disaster and performed in New York City on New Year’s Eve 1945, “1913 Massacre” memorialized an American tragedy that had faded from memory after two World Wars.

A F T ER M AT H A N D L EGAC Y Although the Guthrie Center map omits Calumet, Calumet remembers Woody Guthrie.

Its population, which once numbered 6,000, is now around 700. The Italian Hall was razed in 1984; only the lonely arched doorway that had been the entrance remains. The site near the corner of Elm and Seventh is today preserved as a memorial, run in partnership with the Keweenaw National Historical Park.

Signs and plaques tell of the months-long strike that preceded the deaths, and of the heart-breaking aftermath of dozens of white caskets being marched down the frozen streets to Lakeview Cemetery on Dec. 28.

The strike would last four more months. On April 10, the miners voted to end the walkout, despite the lack of concessions.

Only half were hired back – and then only if they disavowed any further attempt to organize. The 8,235 returning men were required to sign back into work in a ledger, which was then presented to James MacNaughton. Each also was required to give 5 cents toward a commemorative watch for the mine’s superintendent, which was presented to him with a decreed note of thanks: “Due to your attitude of no compromise, the Copper Country is not afflicted with the presence of the Western Federation of Miners.”

Every Christmas Eve, the town lights 73 luminaries to line the walk to the door where the hall once stood.

In the darkness, the lights flicker on the surrounding plaques.

One from the AFL-CIO Northwest Upper Peninsula Labor Council states: “Mourn the dead; fight for the living.” Another features a photograph of Woody Guthrie and his guitar with a tribute to his “1913 Massacre,” concluding: “His song drew renewed interest in the strike and provokes listeners to this day.”

The PBS documentary Red Metal: The Copper Country Strike of 1913 ends with a rendition of Guthrie’s ballad, concluding, “Taken as history, the song is a flawed work … But taken as art, the song is transformative. It became a staple in the folklore canon, and elevated a tragedy into folklore.”

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C

ore oncepts LIFE BEYOND WORK IN THE HEART OF OKLAHOMA CITY

BY G R EG H O R TO N PH OTO S BY S H A N N O N CO R N M A N

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W

When Laura Massenat opened Elemental Coffee in Midtown in 2011, Hudson Avenue was still a one-way street. For decades, conventional thinking about traffic patterns in downtown business districts had been that a network of one-way streets provided the best means of dumping people into and getting them out of the central business district at the beginning and end of a workday. While that is an efficient system for work, it doesn’t provide a sufficient level of flexibility for people to live, eat and play conveniently in the same space.

The City of Oklahoma City converted the Midtown streets to two-way in 2008, but the downtown roads had to wait until 2012. The city planners consulted with Jeff Speck, author of Walkable City, before the directional changes were made – and fortuitously, they followed Speck’s advice. Not only did the changes not cause the feared gridlock that more traditionalist thinkers had predicted, they also created a more livable, walkable downtown, a move that spurred further development in the urban core.

Using Spaghetti Warehouse as the pioneer, it’s easy to track the redevelopment of downtown. The now-defunct Italian eatery opened in November 1989, and it truly was a lone outpost in what was a cluster of abandoned warehouses in the quintessential blighted urban district. Four years later, everything changed, and as we celebrate the 25th anniversary of MAPS I this year, it is difficult to remember Bricktown being anything other than Bricktown – even for those of us who remember places like Dopey’s Playhouse and the red-tailed hawk that lived on the fourth floor of Tapwerks, where it hunted pigeons unfortunate enough to fly through the broken windows.

MAPS for Kids followed in 2001, and MAPS 3 in 2008, and both pushed the urban core closer to a livable, not just workable, context. The wave of openings in Bricktown after the passage of MAPS I, including The Mantel and Tapwerks in 1999, was followed by a crucial step in 2000 with the formation of Downtown OKC, a nonprofit organization tasked with overseeing the Business Improvement District that now includes

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The density wasn’t sufficient at the time, though, and Massenat quickly realized Elemental Coffee’s owner Laura Masssenat (top) and operating partner Elena Hughes she would have to adjust to the reality of the market, all the downtown districts: Arts which meant adding a food compoDistrict, Automobile Alley, Bricknent (see sidebar). Converting to a town, Central Business District, counter-service restaurant proved Deep Deuce, Film Row, Midtown and to be the decision that turned ElePark Plaza. mental into the community hub it Midtown was already starting to has become. In fact, Elemental is a show growth when Elemental opened; microcosm of sorts for the urban Stella Modern Italian and McNellie’s core: the move to the center of the were on the scene, as was Prairie city, the service for an initial comThunder Bakery. The original Elemenmuter customer base, a decision to tal roastery was on Main Street west make the concept more conducive to of Penn, but Massenat wanted a more staying longer, the use of community central location so they could showtables to foster, well, community. case the craft and provide a level of Living and working in the core, coffee education for the city. Being on for many people, means interacting one of the main downtown thoroughwith Massenat’s coffee shop. Walk fares meant catching a portion of the in on any weekday and you’ll see a downtown workforce during morning mix of customers – people who live, drive time. work or both in the core – reading, “We chose that location because we talking, working, eating, writing and loved the building, and we liked what networking. It is where downtownwas starting to happen downtown ers come to see their neighbors, and – Ludivine, Cadence Yoga – and we it’s where they come to get things originally envisioned a large enough done, even if that merely means number of customers in the central passing along news (or gossip) and business district to support an urban encouragement. coffee shop,” Massenat says.

‘‘The feeling is everywhere you go down here. Walking, riding your bike, dining in restaurants, at a neighborhood bar or even when shopping, you’ll see someone you know, and they actually don’t go out of their way not to say hello – something you regularly see in big cities.’’

ELENA HUGHES

Elena Hughes, an operating partner in Elemental, said that the shop and the entire core feel like a small town.

“The feeling is everywhere you go down here,” she says. “Walking, riding your bike, dining in restaurants, at a neighborhood bar or even when shopping, you’ll see someone you know, and they actually don’t go out of their way not to say hello – something you regularly see in big cities.”

We talked to people who live and work in the core, as well as those who help shape what the urban core looks

like, and we compiled short lists of favorite things from several of them. The answers were strikingly similar, and among investors, developers and real estate agents, we found people who are excited about the energy downtown.

The city has held its breath in the past few years, wondering – sometimes silently, sometimes in whispers – when the energy would dissipate, when we’d return to being some old form of ourselves. Given our conversations for this story, that moment won’t come soon, and perhaps never.

Still Bullish Tim McKay is a real estate broker with ARA Newmark Oklahoma, the firm responsible for overseeing the sale in the past few years of the Metropolitan apartments, Avana Arts District apartments and Sycamore Square (now The Haven), among others. McKay has been personally involved in the shift in investors’ perspectives about OKC. “Seven years ago, Oklahoma City was still kind of a secret to outside investors,” McKay says. “The perspective now is very positive. We’re seeing sophisticated, well-capitalized groups looking here, and in many cases it’s because of job growth and the cooperation between private and public sectors that attracts them.”

That cooperation is best seen in the MAPS initiatives. Oklahoma City residents voted in favor of temporary tax increases three different times to spur development and improve the city, especially the urban core.

McKay said outside investors noticed and responded.

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EATING IN THE CORE With notable exceptions – McNellie’s, Fuzzy’s and Mickey Mantle’s Steakhouse, for example – most of the popular restaurants in the urban core are locally owned. It’s far from a comprehensive list, but in talking to locals, these options stood out for the reasons listed.

ELEMENTAL COFFEE, 815 N Hudson Elena Hughes doesn’t use the title chef, but she’s probably earned it, and customers have come to expect delicious options in all the healthy and unhealthy categories imaginable.

Every morning, customers can select vegan, vegetarian and omnivore grab ‘n’ go breakfasts, and those same options are available for lunch and dessert, dining in or carrying out. Laura Massenat calls Hughes “the best restaurant operator in the city.”

BIG TRUCK TACOS, 530 NW 23rd Tacos, and it might have the best breakfast in the urban core.

CAFÉ 7, 100 W Main Delicious sandwiches and pastas for feeding a family on a budget.

HATCH, 1101 N Broadway There’s never a bad time for breakfast food.

KITCHEN 324, 324 N Robinson Not just brunch, but the brunch is excellent.

Elemental

MARY EDDY’S, 900 W Main Voted “Best Chef in OKC” two years in a row in this magazine, and rightly so.

PATRONO, 305 N Walker Outstanding Italian food, and proximity to Civic Center shows.

PIZZERIA GUSTO, 2415 N Walker Pizza, especially if you’re a fan of Neapolitan.

STELLA MODERN ITALIAN, 1201 N Walker The pizza, the pasta, the Sunday brunch.

TAMASHII, 321 NW 8th The vegan ramen and the tonkotsu ramen.

Don’t sleep on the chasudon.

VAST, 333 W Sheridan The view and Chef Kevin Lee’s food.

Stella

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Mary Eddy’s

YUZO, 808 N Broadway Fresh, tasty sushi and creative tapas.

STELLA AND MARY EDDY’S PHOTOS BY SCOTTY O’DANIEL

R&J LOUNGE, 320 NW 10th Umami burger and cheesy crab toast.

“I’m tempted to say that MAPS is 100 percent of the reason they’re investing here, but that’s a stretch,” he says. “The number is high, though.”

As for the foreseeable future, McKay is “bullish” on investing in the core. The construction of parks, gardens, entertainment options, restaurants and other amenities has only made the center of the city more attractive to companies that build and sell apartment developments, and McKay said he sees more forsale properties changing hands in the core as outside companies see Oklahoma City’s potential.

Some Caution If things go according to plan, the number of hotel rooms within the area will increase from the 3,025 available at the end of July to nearly 5,500 by 2021. Those numbers are for the urban core only, not other hotel-dense stretches such as West Memorial and South Meridian. Mike Carrier, president of the Oklahoma City Convention and Visitor Bureau, said that there are currently 2,366

hotel rooms in some phase of development, including the plans for the Omni Hotel, which will have more than 600 rooms when completed.

“We are still seeing occupancy rates of 71 percent-plus in downtown hotels,” Carrier says. “That’s a healthy number.”

However, he did say that there are some signs of slowing in this sector.

“We had a couple of hotels that were supposed to start construction within the past 12 months, and they’ve delayed those projects. We think they are making sure the projected numbers will hold.”

Carrier said that the Omni Hotel, which will be the new convention center hotel, and the Autograph Hotel – currently underway at First National Center – are definite, and the number of rooms at those two concepts is causing other developers to consider whether they should be aggressive in the short term.

“It takes time for new developments to absorb into the economy,” Carrier says. “We don’t really know exactly how long, but we will have a better sense of the numbers in the next year to year and a half.”

CJ Cover, director of operations, and chef Andrew Black are teaming up to bring not one, not two, but three dining concepts to the corner of NE 4th and Walnut: La Baguette, casual dining establishment Black Walnut and tasting menu concept Grey Sweater.

WHAT’S COMING TO THE CORE? The area’s growth means more for residents and visitors to look forward to – starting with these soon-to-be additions to the neighborhood.

Chef Andrew Black’s Grey Sweater, Black Walnut and La Baguette in Deep Deuce Stitch Café at The Bridge in Bricktown Omma Greek Kitchen in Automobile Alley Vanessa House Brewery on 8th Street Elk Valley Brewing Company in Midtown Hudson Street Market and The Collective, two food halls in Midtown Jimmy’s Egg on Hudson in Midtown OCTOBER 2018 405 MAGAZINE

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Mahogany

DRINKING IN THE CORE Many of the good restaurants have excellent bars and wine lists, but some bars stand out for different reasons.

BAR ARBOLADA, 637 W Main Wines in cans and craft cocktails.

BARRIOS, 1000 N Hudson Get the house margarita.

Barrios

BLOCK 23, 1 N Broadway The patio of the Sheraton’s newly revamped restaurant, cool for cocktails, cans and snacks.

BOSSA NOVA BAR, 440 NW 11th Rooftop view for caipirinhas and more.

MAHOGANY, 145 W Sheridan Stop in for cocktails before or after a Thunder game.

O BAR, 1200 N Walker French wine and classic cocktails.

PATRONO, 305 N Walker Lambrusco by the glass.

PIZZERIA GUSTO, 2415 N Walker Great, affordable wine list and surprisingly good cocktails.

R&J LOUNGE, 320 NW 10th Tiki drinks in tiki glasses!

TAPWERKS, 121 E Sheridan Huge beer selection in a space with tons of old-school character.

Jones Assembly

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R&J Lounge

VAST, 333 W Sheridan Wine, especially the Coravin list (available by the ounce).

PHOTOS: BARRIOS AND R&J LOUNGE BY CARLI ECONOMY, MAHOGANY AND JONES ASSEMBLY BY SCOTTY O’DANIEL

JONES ASSEMBLY, 901 W Sheridan Cocktails upstairs, especially the frosé.

‘‘They chose to move downtown because it’s clear that the city is investing in itself with new public transportation options and amenities like parks, sidewalks, trails and recreational activities.’’

JILL BROWN DELOZIER

Jill Brown DeLozier

Locally Owned After redevelopment of an urban area begins, growth tends to come in predictable phases. Gentrification pushes out marginalized people, locals invest in the newly gentrifying area, early successes breed interest in the larger metropolitan area, which spurs more locals moving to the area, and this is followed by a move toward real estate density; apartments, condos, restaurants, bars, shops and other businesses take advantage of the low price of real estate ahead of the cost-per-square-foot increases that come with success.

When done well, redevelopment eventually leads to outside interest in the form of regional and national brands. Oklahoma City is clearly in this phase now, and locals in the core have feared that outside investments will blunt local investment and involvement in their living space, creating a more generic set of options – think more Starbucks instead of Elemental, Subway instead of Café 7 and Claire’s instead of Black Scintilla.

Jill Brown DeLozier, vice president of Downtown OKC, said the businesses moving to downtown within the next year are a mix of local, regional and national brands.

“Most of the new retail and restaurants coming to downtown this year

are locally owned,” she says, “and most of the corporations coming here – like Hogan Taylor and Global Payments – have national clients and other regional offices.”

The core is even attracting local businesses from inside the city itself.

Echo Energy is a local firm on the Northwest Expressway that is moving its operations and 100 employees into the Parkside Building.

“They chose to move downtown because it’s clear that the city is investing in itself with new public transportation options and amenities like parks, sidewalks, trails and recreational activities,” Brown DeLozier says.

The beauty of a downtown space is that it condenses a wealth of amenities into a walkable, or at least “scooterable,” space. Brown DeLozier OCTOBER 2018 405 MAGAZINE

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said companies that are trying to attract young talent are focusing on the urban core because they want their staff to be able to relax, eat and have fun where they work. For young professionals, especially the ones you see zipping around downtown on Bird and Lime scooters now that the Great Scooter War is winding down, the choice to live, work and play in the same space is a strong incentive toward recruitment and retention.

Transportation Options The streetcar is coming. Like it or not, and there are plenty of detractors, the construction will likely be completed in October. Kristen Torkelson, the streetcar construction communication liaison – and even she laughs when she has to say the whole title – said the goal is to have both routes operational by the end of the year. In fact, Embark is testing the downtown loop as this issue goes to print.

One of the benefits of the new transportation options, including the much-loved and much-hated scooters, is that Bricktown finally has a chance to be part of the larger downtown scene. While it’s often been consigned to the “tourist district” heap of options, Bricktown is home to dozens of local businesses, and the addition of a streetcar loop will finally make those options more accessible to residents of the core.

The addition of 350 apartments at The Steelyard will also make the district more residential, even as it becomes more transitory with the addition of still more hotels.

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SHOPPING IN THE CORE Wherever people live, they’re going to need stuff. From basic necessities to cool gadgets, getting it downtown is easier than ever.

BARKEEP SUPPLY, 1121 N Walker: This place will seriously upgrade your home bar quality and aesthetics.

BLACK SCINTILLA, 1112 N Walker: Gifts, clothes and the hairiest dress model available anywhere (shoutout Chris Stinchcomb).

BROADWAY WINE MERCHANTS, 824 N Broadway: Great selection of everything. Great staff.

CHIRPS & CHEERS, 1112 N Walker: Stationery. So much awesome stationery.

COMMONPLACE BOOKS, 1325 N Walker: Read, buy, chat, hang out.

NATIVE ROOTS MARKET, 131 NE 2nd: Groceries and incredible hummus.

PLENTY MERCANTILE, 807 N Broadway: We are just glad this wide-ranging store exists.

URBANE, 1015 N Broadway: Furniture, lighting, décor, fanciness for your home and lifestyle.

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Meet Me The Perfect Place for Planners, Pens, Cards and Stationery

Chirps & Cheers was created celebrating life’s everyday chirps & extraordinary cheers.

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1112 N Walker Ave #101 | 405.509.6336 | chirpsandcheers.com

Women’s Contemporary Apparel & Accessories Nhu Avenue is a women’s contemporary apparel and accessories store that offers quality classic style at an affordable price. We offer brands such as Blank Denim, Adelyn Rae, Spanx, Le Specs, Rayban, and Kendra Scott.

Barkeep in Midtown is a cocktail supply shop specializing in bar tools, drinkware, ingredients, and accessories. Come stock your bar or find the perfect gift, and while you shop, enjoy a cocktail!

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in Midtown Meet Rachael Approachable French fare has a new home in Midtown OKC. Discover Café Cuvée, a fun neighborhood eatery where you’ll experience some of France’s most celebrated flavors, recipes, and spirits.

CafeCuvee.com | @CafeCuveeOKC | 1200 N Walker Ave

Rachael Gruntmeir learned to sew from her mother and grandmother, however, she never expected to own a women’s clothing store. In fact, it was a complete coincidence that she ended up in the clothing industry. Maybe that’s why her store, The Black Scintilla, is all about defying expectations.

Other things you may not expect when you enter The Black Scintilla: affordable prices, women’s clothing sizes small to 3XL, complimentary alterations, and new arrivals daily. If you find yourself in a pinch and need an outfit, Rachael is happy to fire up one of her six sewing machines and make the alterations on the spot; even if it’s for an event that same night.

It’s all about quality customer service and a fun environment for Rachael at The Black Scintilla.

1112 N Walker Ave #104 | 405. 824.7599 blackscintilla.com | BlackScintilla | @blackscintilla TRADE Men’s Wares was founded on the idea of bringing a store to OKC that specialized in products blending style with rugged masculinity.

We’re a quality retailer for apparel, grooming, gifts, and accessories.

1112 N Walker Ave #102 | 405.595.5018 trademenswares.com

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travel

PHOTOS COURTESY VISIT LAKE GENEVA

Steam and Serenity Once a getaway for Midwestern captains of industry, Wisconsin’s lovely Lake Geneva is still a beautiful destination filled with diversions and enchanting scenery – but now its shops, restaurants and peaceful promenades are available for all to explore.

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travel STATESIDE

Bird’s-eye view of Lake Geneva

A WISCONSIN WONDERLAND I M AGI N E YOU R SEL F back in the post-Civil War era. You’re

an industrialist in a big Midwestern city. Summers can be brutal – pollution dirties the air, pavements hold the heat and office fans only move hot air around. You’re looking for an escape.

That was the situation for moguls in Milwaukee and Chicago, and they found the perfect getaway on a lovely little lake in Wisconsin: Lake Geneva.

A small, pretty town on the lake provided necessities. The air was fresh and pure. The lake sparkled, crystal clear. With over 5,000 acres, it was large enough to hold showy yachts, but small enough for a challenging walk around. And it was full of fish – bass, northern pike, walleye, trout and panfish – for avid anglers. The lake became a destination for big-city big shots, who built large, often ostentatious, summer homes where entire families and servants would escape the stifling heat. Lake Geneva’s nickname was “The Newport of the West.”

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Today, Lake Geneva still offers those same amenities – but you don’t have to be a millionaire to enjoy them. Don’t have a yacht?

That’s okay, you can tour the lake with Lake Cruises. Cruise season starts in April or May, depending on the weather, with regularly scheduled trips until the end of October. Weekend trips are available through November – again, depending on weather – and Santa Cruises go from the Friday after Thanksgiving until New Year’s Day. From June 15 through September 15, the coolest cruise is the mail boat run. All the cruises are narrated and offer interesting information, but this one has an added attraction, as mail is delivered to individual dock mailboxes by agile carriers who jump off the bow, race to the box, then leap back onto the stern of the still-moving boat.

The town of Lake Geneva hugs the east shore of the lake.

Cruises leave from the side of the old Riviera Ballroom, now a

PHOTO: COURTESY VISIT LAKE GENEVA

The joys of Lake Geneva

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meeting venue, colorful boats tie up at the piers and a popular swimming beach offers summer fun.

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Spectacular fishing awaits at Rushing Waters in Palmyra.

designer who had worked for HGTV – so expect interesting and unusual décor in both these properties.

F IR ST R E SORT One of the oldest resorts in the area, if not the first, is Lake Lawn, my host for my stay. On Delavan Lake, a few miles northwest of Lake Geneva, Lake Lawn is a sprawling property with lots of amenities from lawn games to golf. Also included are indoor and outdoor swimming pools, tennis, a game room and activity center, children’s playground, fitness center, spa, several restaurants, fishing piers, a marina – the list just goes on. In other words, this is an all-in-one vacation.

My room was lovely and I had a covered porch with rocking chairs and a lake view, but I also found time to read some of the interesting history of the property. Before becoming a tourist accommodation in 1878, the land was home to Mound Builders (600 – 1200 A.D.), Potawatomi Indians in the late 1700s and early 1800s and even a circus (mid-1800s). Panels near the Frontier restaurant provide a fascinating set of stories – including the invention of pink lemonade.

Lake Geneva and the surrounding area provide a wide selection of sights, eats and treats. Just 50 miles from Madison, 40 miles from Milwaukee, and 70 miles from Chicago, it’s no wonder it still holds special attraction for these city dwellers. A mere 100 miles further from OKC than a drive to Padre Island, it’s interstates almost all the way and takes less than 13 hours by car – a long day if you’re a bear for punishment, or a comfortable two-day jaunt.

PHOTOS: RUSHING WATERS BY ELAINE WARNER; CURD-BURGER COURTESY WALWORTH COUNTY VISITORS BUREAU

DOW N TOW N – DI N I NG A N D DR E A MI NG It’s a short walk to historic Main Street, lined with Italianate, Classical and Colonial Revival buildings dating back to the 1870s. Stroll downtown streets to find interesting shops, boutiques and restaurants.

If you’re looking for a great breakfast or lunch, the Egg Harbor Café is the stop for you. Not surprisingly, you’ll find lots of egg dishes on the menu – all from happy hens with good homes.

Definitely worth a try.

Sprecher Brewery was the first post-Prohibition craft brewery opened in Wisconsin, and they brew both beers and sodas. The restaurants that share the brand name (there are five in Wisconsin) offer these products exclusively – plus great food. I’m not much of a drinker, but I liked what they did with the brews; I had a Reuben with corned beef slow-roasted in Sprecher Black Bavarian beer.

Another day I lunched at Oakfire, close to the beach, where the Neapolitan-style pizza cooks in 90 seconds in a handmade, brick-lined, wood-fired Italian oven. If there’s room after dinner, order the Pizza con Nutella – a stuffed pie with sliced bananas and Nutella, drizzled with chocolate syrup, dusted with powdered sugar and trimmed with strawberries and fresh basil.

Cap a day in downtown with a show at Tristan Crist Magic Theatre. The current theatre is intimate, about 50 seats, with lots of audience interaction. Crist will be moving to a larger venue in the next year or two, and I hope he doesn’t sacrifice that close connection with the audience. It was a fast-paced show with lots of surprises – great entertainment.

There are many choices of accommodations, but if you want unique, try one of the more historic properties. The Baker House, 1885, comes with an in-house butler and a great legacy.

The stately Queen Anne beauty is elegant to its core, including afternoon toasts to the original occupants held on the front lawn during the season.

There are five luxury suites in the home – and I do mean luxury. In an earlier incarnation of the property, Hugh Hefner leased the home while he was overseeing the building of the Playboy Club Hotel.

The Maxwell Mansion, bearing the name of one of the town’s founders, is one of the oldest homes in the area. The Georgian/ Italianate mansion was completed in 1856. Both Wisconsin cheese curds complement every it and the Baker House food – here, the Curd-Burger at Sprecher’s are decorated by a Restaurant.

Located in the rugged landscape of the Missouri Ozark Mountains, discover a remote haven of natural beauty overlooking Table Rock Lake. Big Cedar Lodge features world-class accommodations, dining and attractions, including a 50,000 square foot spa, expansive shooting facility, 10,000 acre nature park and four golf courses designed by some of the most legendary names in golf.

Call or visit the website to plan your stay.

Ranked the #1 Resort in the Midwest for 3 Consecutive Years – Travel and Leisure Magazine

855.494.1077 BIGCEDAR.COM

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The Lake Geneva Shore Path wanders through woods and past gracious mansions, hugging the lake shore for most of its 26 miles.

SCENIC STROLL

OT HER A R E A AT T R ACT IONS East Troy: The East Troy Electric Railroad offers trips on the last remnant of Wisconsin’s interurban network. Take a vintage trolley to Mukwonago and back.

Mukwonago: The Elegant Farmer, a combo farm, kitchen, bakery, deli and market, is located in a large, cream-colored barn decorated with a giant happy face. Lots of good stuff here, but you have to try the Apple Pie Baked in a Paper Bag. It beat Bobby Flay’s fried apple hand pies in a Food Network face-off.

This is a trolley stop.

Palmyra: Rushing Waters & the Trout House is a triple-threat – or triple treat – spot where you can trout fish year-round, buy wonderful fresh fish or, several days a week, enjoy great cuisine.

And yes, you can catch your own meal!

Lake Geneva: Lake Geneva Country Meats is more than your usual butcher shop; they hand-craft internationally awarded sausages and brats. Check their website for any scheduled public events, because the beer and brat pairing I attended was super.

Williams Bay: This is a do-not-miss; the Yerkes Observatory is home to the world’s largest refracting telescope, which sits atop the world’s largest indoor elevator. Its status as part of the University of Chicago is currently in transition. Hopefully, it will remain open to the public, because it’s a historic, astrophysical treasure.

For more information, check out visitlakegeneva.com and visitwalworthcounty.com. - ELAINE WARNER

Smoked salmon stars in this appetizer tray at the Trout House.

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The path itself is inconsistently surfaced. Parts are paved, while other parts have flagstones or bricks, wood or crushed gravel. The path actually goes through the yards of a number of great estates. Maps and apps are available to give you information about what you’re seeing. Read up before you go and plan for water or restroom stops.

To get a taste of the trail – or for families – the best place to start is at the Lake Geneva Public Library access. Walk up to a mile in either direction on a paved path … but remember, you’ll have to walk back the same way. Most people walk with buddies and pick several adjacent sections of the trail, leaving an automobile at the end of the route then driving to the starting point with a second vehicle.

The official route starts at Wrigley Drive and the beach, near the Lake Geneva Library. Some of the most impressive historic homes are along this section, and while hikers are admonished to stay strictly on the path, you can look all you want. Among the impressive estates are the 1881 Blacktoft estate, 1905 Edgewood, built for the son of the Swift meat-packing mogul, and Bonnie Brae. This house, built in 1881, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and was once visited by artist Claude Monet.

More elegant homes can be seen on segment two of the Shore Path. Segment one and this section are each about three and a half miles long. Segment three starts in Williams Bay; cafes and bathrooms are handy here. The Abbey Resort and Spa is a highlight in the next section. The fifth portion is about six miles long with a pick-up or drop-off point midway, but no parking at that spot. This part of the walk offers some challenges with narrow and steep dirt paths in places. Towards the end of this part is the Geneva Inn with beautiful accommodations and great dining. This segment ends at Big Foot Beach State Park (no guarantee you’ll see a swimming sasquatch). The last section of the walk takes you back to the town of Lake Geneva.

A complete circuit of the lake would take a hiker in average physical condition eight to 10 hours to complete. Each area of the trail offers great scenery and interesting architecture, and each season brings its own beauty to this unique walk.

PHOTOS: LAKE GENEVA COURTESY VISIT LAKE GENEVA; SMOKED SALMON BY ELAINE WARNER

Photo ops abound at the Lake Geneva harbor.

Labeled “Walk, Talk and Gawk,” the Lake Geneva Shore Path is more for walkers (or mosey-ers) than hard-core hikers. If you’re one of those, the challenge is in the length: 26 miles around the lake. However, the path is divided into segments between access points, and most people choose one or two segments.

dining OctoberFeast

PHOTO BY SCOTTY O’DANIEL

It’s a good month to visit a restaurant with a self-proclaimed German flair – then again, as this mouthwatering spread shows, there’s no wrong time to head to Edmond for a visit to Klemm’s Smoke Haus. Especially if you love barbecue as much as its perfection-minded proprietors.

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dining

LOCAL FLAVOR

BAVARIAN FLAIR Klemm’s finds savor in the details

BY STEVE GILL PHOTOS BY SCOT T Y O’DANIEL

KLEMM’S SMOKE HAUS 2000 S Broadway Edmond 405.757.7412

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W HE N W E SET OU T to do a feature on barbecue in central Oklahoma not that long ago, we were able to list off more than 20 locally owned establishments without having to rack our brains.

I was thinking about that recently when we walked into Klemm’s Smoke Haus in Edmond, and I realized that this restaurant is almost directly across from an outpost of a local BBQ chain and just down the street from a national franchise. It’s easy to see why the operators approached the idea of opening another barbecue place with caution, and thought it couldn’t hurt to have a concept, a hook, that set them slightly apart.

John and Jan Clem, both formerly in the dental profession, shared a dream of sharing his smoked meat prowess with the world. They thought they could make a go of a restaurant, but decided to test the waters first. So a few years ago, they started a catering business, which was and still is a success, then launched a food truck. When it also acquired an enthusiastic following, that was the vote of confidence they needed, so they found a brick-and-mortar spot on N Broadway and began serving up their wares. And throughout the process, they’ve played up their hook. Both food truck and restaurant display the name Klemm’s Smoke Haus (note the spelling), a stylized coat of arms and the motto “Little Bit of Germany; Whole Lotta BBQ.” If someone asks, “Hey, you want to go try that German barbecue place up in Edmond?” you might think, “Wait, German barbecue? How does that work?” but your reply should be “Absolutely,” because the answer is “Deliciously.”

Aside from a couple of menu entries such as bratwurst and some of the best jaegerschnitzel I’ve ever had (you rarely find the breading so light and fresh), the ethnic influence mostly manifests itself in smaller touches. The mustard is German, for example, as is the red cabbage and apple slaw – their vinegary version of the traditional condiment was intended solely as a topping for sandwiches such as the enormous pulled-pork-andbacon Jowler, but popular demand convinced them to offer it as a side dish, as well. Overall, the menu doesn’t look that different from other rib-and-brisket spots. “We do have German dishes, but it’s a barbecue restaurant,” says Jan. If the German flair helps them stand out in a crowded market, that’s all to the good, but while the Deutsche dishes are a nice touch, it’s the execution and care that truly sets Klemm’s apart.

John comes from a family of artists, and his craftsmanship and constant pursuit of perfection – while it occasionally leads to disagreements with suppliers – noticeably elevate the results

coming out of his kitchen. From butchering the St. Louis-style ribs themselves to ensure a proper trim to fine-tuning the breading on the fried okra (“It took us about nine months to get the recipe exactly right,” says son J.J.), almost everything is made from scratch in-house, and every detail is the result of careful consideration. Jan even asked us about our sauce preferences during the photo shoot; their thick, dark, molasses-heavy recipe is just what I like and helped the pulled pork considerably, but the tender brisket hardly needs any and the ribs are absolutely top-tier exactly as they come out.

Even the dessert menu’s dense, chocolate-packed salted caramel brownie or giant peanut butter cookie are borderline irresistible. “People who say they don’t even like banana pudding tell us they love our pudding,” says Jan. The restaurant has the rustic, wood-heavy vibe you find in many barbecue places, but the abundant natural light (three walls are windows) gives it a spacious, airy atmosphere that keeps it from feeling too crowded even during the lunchtime bustle. And if you’re digging the cooler temperatures of October, there’s quite a bit of room in the enclosed patio to the north.

You don’t have to be a huge fan of German cuisine in order to enjoy a trip to Klemm’s Smoke Haus; it’s worth a trip, or several, purely on the strength of its well-executed barbecue. But given that’s it’s still Oktoberfest for a few more days … well, as it says in bright yellow on one corner of the menu, “Prost, y’all!”

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dining

CHEF’S TABLE

Spiced Just Right Jeff Chanchaleune talks family flavor

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For Chef Chanchaleune’s ginger chicken recipe, go to 405magazine.com/Eat-Drink

Rachel Cope of 84 Hospitality. That partnership and those dinners led directly to Goro.

A husband and father now, too, Chanchaleune cooks at home for his wife Rachel and their yearold daughter Marly. For his recipe this month, the chef selected his mother’s ginger chicken, saying it’s probably in his top five of her dishes.

“It’s slightly sweet, salty, spicy and so savory,” he says. “It’s true comfort food, so comforting that my mom meal-prepped it for my wife immediately after our daughter was born. She said that all the ginger and the dish as a whole were good for my wife’s health and recovery. Probably an Asian parent’s ancient remedy.” - GREG HORTON

PHOTOS BY SHANNON CORNMAN

J EF F CH A NCH A L EU N E IS the executive chef and co-owner of Goro Ramen in the Plaza District, but his first career choice was not food. His degree from OU is in Journalism and Mass Communications. In fact, Chanchaleune spent two years in graphic design and advertising after graduation, but he said it wasn’t as satisfying as he expected.

While he worked on his career of choice, though, he was also helping his aunt in Portland open a sushi restaurant. It was a sort of return to his roots, because he never really left food behind, even in college.

“My father was a chef most of my life,” Chanchaleune says, “so I’m a restaurant brat. I grew up in kitchens. My dad was the chef at Michael’s Supper Club here in the city, and he was chef at the Sand Plum in Guthrie, and he worked in three hotels, too.”

A classically trained chef father and a Lao mother who is a creative and gifted home cook with a flair for spicy Asian food meant the chef’s upbringing was on two culinary footings. Even now, when he talks about fast food – a guilty pleasure, he admits – or more serious personal favorites, he insists on having two categories: Western and Asian.

“My favorite Asian foods growing up were all the things my mother made,” he says. “If I had to pick, I’d say duck larb, chicken and rice noodle soup and ginger chicken. My mother said if food isn’t spicy, it isn’t good.

She makes Laotian and Thai food, and our family ate five out of five spicy every day.”

Despite intending to leave cooking behind, at least the professional side, it would carry him through high school (Guthrie) and college, to Portland and Chicago, then back to his native Oklahoma City. (He actually went to elementary school in the neighborhood around the Plaza.) When he returned, he started the Kaiteki Ramen food truck, which led to the Project Slurp pop-up dinners, his first collaborations with his now business partner

KEY $ most entrees under $10 $$ most entrees $10 to $25 $$$ most entrees over $25 outdoor dining reservations accepted valet parking new or updated entry

American AURORA Its warmly comfortable atmosphere makes a perfect backdrop for a quick cup of Hoboken coffee or hearty breakfast or lunch assembled from superb ingredients – just be certain not to miss the beautiful secluded backyard area. 1704 NW 16th, OKC, 609.8854 $ THE DRUM ROOM March your own drumsticks in for a heap of crispy, juicy fried chicken (among the city’s best) starring alongside fried okra, waffles and a fully loaded bar. 4300 N Western, OKC, 604.0990 $$

Viva Discovery 1492’s explorations of flavor F ROM A CO M M O N -S E N S E historical standpoint, the federal hol-

iday that falls on the second Monday in October absolutely should be designated as Indigenous People’s Day rather than Columbus Day. But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be on board with the concept of voyages of discovery – if you’re hungry for something out of the ordinary, I recommend you set sail for 1492 New World Latin Cuisine ASAP. Whether you wind up at the original at 1207 N Walker in Midtown or the colony (so to speak) in Casady Square at 9213 Penn Place, the menu is the same. And their tacos – fried shrimp, beef barbacoa or the more unusual braised oxtail or duck with plantains – are a treat. For something a bit more substantial, though, try the Cochinita Pibil. The Mayan-style pulled pork is marinated in achiote pepper sauce, baked in an oven for 4.5 hours and wrapped in banana leaves for a subtle hint of additional flavor. It’s rich, juicy and fantastically tender – and spicy in the sense of complex flavor rather than simple heat, especially with a dose of the pickled onions for texture.

I’m not the resident wine expert among the 405 staff, but a glass of the Spanish Tempranillo called Volver is an excellent accompaniment for this dish, as is an order of freshly made guacamole.

Owner Marco Chavez is the developer of recipes such as this the pibil – it’s a new dish at 1492 (although the basic idea for the recipe goes back centuries), and has proved extremely popular already. Plus, the menu should be receiving another slight revamp in mid-October, so this is a perfect time to go exploring in search of a new favorite. - STEVE GILL

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EDDIE’S BAR & GRILL This stylish spot not far from UCO is equally ideal for a casual drink, appetizers while watching the game or a dinner date. And bear in mind that the wings are outstanding. 930 E 2, Edmond, 285.7725 $$ GREY SWEATER Chef Andrew Black offers guests an imaginative culinary journey via a three-tiered tasting menu drawing on flavors from around the world – unpredictable, but always outstanding.

102 NE 4th, OKC, 455.6274 $$$ HUNNY BUNNY Bringing the allure of fresh, hot breakfast treats to Uptown 23rd, this purveyor of made-from-scratch biscuit sandwiches located in the Tower Theatre is a must for comfort food lovers.

429 NW 23rd, OKC $ THE HUTCH ON AVONDALE The all-time classic Coach House receives an update with a more modern menu sprinkled with experimental twists, and a full suite of tempting cocktails, wines and spirits. 6437 Avondale, OKC, 842.1000 $$ THE JONES ASSEMBLY It’s noteworthy as a spectacular concert venue, but don’t overlook the kitchen’s output the rest of the time. The bar (try a Frosé) and main menu (try everything) are sufficient to make memories even on non-special occasions.

901 W Sheridan, OKC, 212.2378 $$ KITCHEN NO. 324 A seasonally inspired café and craft bakery serving spectacular rustic American cuisine.

Open for lunch and dinner, and a thorough treat for breakfast or brunch.

324 N Robinson, OKC, 763.5911 $ KITCHEN AT COMMONPLACE Few bookstores offer more than coffee and pastries, but then Commonplace Books isn’t exactly ordinary. This full restaurant is a small but savory treat. 1325 N Walker, OKC, 534.4540 $$

NEIGHBORHOOD JAM Serving tasty takes on classic American dishes and more specialized options such as pineapple bourbon pancakes, this breakfast-centric spot aims to become a community favorite through outstanding execution. 15124 Lleytons Court, Edmond, 242.4161, 102 W Main, Norman, 310.2127 $ PICASSO CAFÉ Their neighbors in the Paseo are painters, potters and sculptors, so it’s apt that creativity abounds in these zippy sandwiches, salads, pizza and surprises, including plentiful selections for vegetarians. 3009 Paseo, OKC, 602.2002 $ THE PRESS Built in a former printing facility and garage, this concept from The Mule’s team adds Oklahoma-inspired comfort food to the Plaza District – the chicken-fried steak comes recommended.

1610 N Gatewood, OKC, 982.1010 $$ RED CUP Comfortably ramshackle surroundings encourage curling up for conversation over great coffee, baked treats, vegetarian-friendly breakfast and lunch specials, and live music. It’s highly recommended. 3122 N Classen Blvd, OKC, 525.3430 $ SCOTTIE’S DELI Soups, salads and especially sandwiches, all made from scratch and featuring meats that are cured, smoked and cooked in-house. Start with the pastrami and get ready to fall in love. 427 NW 23rd, OKC, 698.3696 $ SCRATCH Isn’t that the best place for food to come from? Top-of -the-line ingredients are combined into entrees and sides that are carefully concocted in-house, as are the bevy of wondrous craft cocktails. 132 W Main, Norman, 801.2900; 607 NW 28th, OKC $$ VAST Keeping your attention on the steaks, seafood and other temptations might be difficult; the view from atop the Devon Tower is truly unparalleled in Oklahoma, making this a fantastic date spot. 280 W Sheridan, 49th floor, OKC, 702.7262 $$$

Asian CAFÉ ICON Tempting sushi, Japanese specialties and delicious spectacles fill the menu to bursting with visually splendid and palate-pleasing treats. 311 S Blackwelder, Edmond, 340.8956 $$ EL TORO CHINO Big, bold flavors from disparate cuisines are blended in this self-described “Latin + Asian Kitchen” - creating results that are as excitingly distinctive as they are delicious. 2801 NW 36th, Norman, 708.9472 $$ GORO An “izakaya” is a Japanese pub; visitors to the Plaza District will quickly come to associate the term with expertly crafted deliciousness thanks to this cheerful spot for ramen, yakitori, bar snacks and more. 1634 Blackwelder, OKC, 606.2539 $

PHOTO BY SCOTTY O’DANIEL

GOOD TASTE

MARY EDDY’S Inside the inviting environs of Film Row anchor 21c Museum Hotel, this showplace of a restaurant turns out a seasonally driven menu of expertly tuned flavors and dishes meant to be shared. 900 W Main, OKC, 982.6900 $$

NOW IN MIDWEST CITY! KWAN’S KITCHEN Cantonese classics and French-Chinese cuisine in truly sumptuous surroundings? The roomy, regal Kwan’s has you covered. And try the lunch menu’s array of $8 selections for a quick, savory bite. 3031 W Memorial, OKC, 607.8838 $$ MUSASHI’S Exquisitely flavorful Japanese cuisine prepared with genuine artistry, thanks to the skilled chefs executing culinary performance art at tableside hibachi grills. It’s a great spot for a special occasion. 4315 N Western, OKC, 602.5623 $$ NOODEE / OKIE POKIE Rice or salad or noodles, grilled meats or fresh seafood, topped and sauced with a rainbow of options – whatever you pick from this pair of concepts under one roof, the resulting bowl will be just what you want, and also delicious. 2411 N Guernsey, OKC, 605.5272 $$ TOKYO It’s neither huge nor lavishly appointed, and the menu focuses on tradition rather than creativity; but it’s palpably fresh and routinely cited as among the metro’s best sushi. 7516 N Western, OKC, 848.6733 $$ TSUBAKI SZECHUAN Bold flavors are a hallmark of Szechuan cuisine, so tell your taste buds to buckle up; spice is always present but never overpowering in this mouthwatering collection of staples and authentically executed dishes. 1117 NW 25th, OKC, 609.6606 $$ YUZO Variety is the word in this sushi tapas bar, boasting a tempting swirl of Colombian, Brazilian and Japanese culinary influences. 808 N Broadway, OKC, 702.9808 $$

Bar & Pub Food BLU FINE WINE & FOOD Just south of Main Street, this sleek bar stands out due to quick, courteous service and a menu with gourmet range from mojitos to barbeque chicken pizza to fresh hummus. 201 S Crawford, Norman, 360.4258 $$ OAK & ORE A Plaza District port of call built with repurposed rustic materials, it offers more than a handful of creative sandwiches that practically require a knife and fork, as well as a tantalizing selection of lovingly chosen craft beers.

1732 NW 16th, OKC, 606.2030 $ SEAN CUMMINGS IRISH RESTAURANT The namesake chef brings the food, drinks, music and atmosphere of an Emerald Isle public house back to the metro – go raise a glass.

7628 N May, OKC $$ THE WINSTON A menu packed with intriguing possibilities among “elevated pub food” balances out an impressive selection of beer, wine and whiskies.

Cheers. 106 W Main, Norman, 561.7616 $$

some of the best barbeque you’ll find anywhere. Go early and prepare to be dazzled. 3402 W Hwy 66, Wellston, 240.3437 $$ LEO’S BAR-B-Q Dense, rich flavor and tender texture, delivered in genuine unpolished style for commendable value – no wonder its ribs and brisket are favorites among Oklahoma connoisseurs.

3631 N Kelley, OKC 424.5367 $ SWADLEY’S Expertly prepared meats – the sausage is especially succulent – form the backbone of this Oklahoma chain’s crowd-pleasing menu. And if there’s a special occasion approaching, they’re also award-winning caterers. 5 metro locations, swadleys.com $$

Burgers & Sandwiches THE GARAGE BURGERS & BEER It can get noisy in the sports-bar atmosphere, but even so your focus will likely be on savoring the many tempting flavor possibilities of huge, juicy burgers and fries. 8 metro locations, eatatthegarage.com $ NIC’S GRILL It’s small, it’s crowded … and it’s incredible. It’s only open for lunch and the lines are often long, but the colossal burgers are easily among the metro’s best. Don’t forget some money, since it’s cash-only. 1202 N Penn, OKC, 524.0999 $ TUCKER’S ONION BURGERS With one burger, plus the recently added Impossible Burger (vegetarian), one side (fries) and one salad, the menu is easy to remember - and the execution makes the meal unforgettable. Add a shake and enjoy.

4 metro locations, tuckersonionburgers. com $

Continental BLACKBIRD A Campus Corner gastropub pairing succulently creative dishes like pot roast nachos with a broad beer, wine and whiskey list. There’s little on the menu that won’t tempt palates.

575 S University, Norman, 928.5555 $$ CHEEVER’S Southwestern-influenced recipes (the chicken-fried steak is a house specialty) and love of seafood drive the contemporary comfort food in one of the city’s finest dining destinations. 2409 N Hudson, OKC, 525.7007 $$ EN CROUTE A warmly welcoming, comfortable café in Nichols Plaza offers treats all day long, from fresh pastries to select spirits and beer, with special emphasis on artisanal cheese and charcuterie. 6460 Avondale, OKC, 607.6100 $

Barbeque

LUDIVINE The menu adjusts constantly to reflect availability of elite-quality, locally sourced ingredients - but every dish is the result of genuine culinary artistry. 805 N Hudson, OKC, 778.6800 $$$

THE BUTCHER BBQ STAND It’s open three days a week and is a good distance from the heart of the metro – but it doesn’t matter, because this is absolutely

THE MANTEL Marvelous steaks, seafood and other specialties combine with a refined atmosphere to set the stage for a truly memorable meal, especially

FINE FOWL & FIXIN’S. MADE FROM SCRATCH, WOOD FIRED PIZZA. DRUMROOMWEDGE.COM | 405.455.2524 2320 S. AIR DEPOT, MIDWEST CITY @DRUMROOMWEDGE OCTOBER 2018 405 MAGAZINE

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lunch buffet. 4559 NW 23rd, OKC, 948.7373 $$

THE METRO A perennial favorite that feels comfortably upscale without exerting pressure to impress on its clientele, the far-reaching menu covers culinary high points from vichyssoise to crème brulée. 6418 N Western, OKC, 840.9463 $$

MISAL OF INDIA A Norman institution for over 30 years, specializing in tandooricooked delicacies and boasting healthy, natural, delicious cuisine served amid splendid ambiance. 580 Ed Noble Pkwy, Norman, 579.5600 $$

PASEO GRILL Quiet and intimate inside, cheerful and comfortable out on the patio, with an award-winning menu filled with distinctive flavors inspired by the cuisines of Europe in both areas – try the duck salad. 2909 Paseo, OKC, 601.1079 $$$ THE PRITCHARD WINE BAR Tempted by tempranillo? Musing about muscat? This Plaza District stop is amply stocked with an extensive list of exceptional wines, and sampling the varied dishes is a pleasure in itself. 1749 NW 16th, OKC, 601.4067 $ ROCOCO An “East Coast-style” restaurant with a diverse menu of international dishes, all set off by carefully selected wines to create the perfect dinner pairing. 12252 N May, OKC, 212.4577; 2824 N Penn, OKC, 528.2824 $$

French

Java Jolt

CAFÉ CUVEE Located in Midtown’s magnificent Ambassador Hotel, this paean to the flavors of la belle France is the result of a collaboration between star chefs and elite ingredients. 1200 N Walker, OKC, 898.8120 $$

I F YO U G R E W U P in Oklahoma, odds are good you’ve read S.E. Hinton’s classic The Outsiders, but you don’t have to be familiar with the coming-of-age tale of Greasers and Socs in order to visit Ponyboy at 423 NW 23rd. You just have to love expertly mixed drinks, killer coffee or both.

The staff is working on whipping up a new menu for fall – if you hustle, you should still be able to toast the last days of summer with a Keys to the Lake House, which is like a sherry-bonded-bourbon mint julep with blackberry syrup. But as the nights get a little longer, their specialization in cocktails using local small-batch KLLR Coffee will start paying extra dividends.

While it’s still warm, try a beautifully balanced Black Eagle (above) made with spiced rum, walnut bitters, brown sugar, Cynar liqueur and a double shot of cold espresso. And once the temperature starts dropping, the robust Irish Coffee (Paddy’s whiskey, KLLR java and cream topped with a freshly toasted marshmallow) will prove ideal for heating up your insides.

Josiah Reeder, Erin Heatly and bar manager Micah Anderson are all adept mixers, so whatever weather the Oklahoma autumn is preparing to throw at you, Ponyboy makes it easy to stay gold. - STEVE GILL

LA BAGUETTE BISTRO Les Freres Buthion have deep roots in the city’s culinary landscape, and this flagship combines fine dining with a great bakery, deli and butcher on site. 7408 N May, OKC, 840.3047 $$

Ponyboy stays gold, hot or cold

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FAIT MAISON Foie gras to Brandy Alexander, this classical French restaurant delivers exceptional cuisine made with exacting care – the name translates to homemade – for exquisite, if pricy, event dining. 152 E 5th, Edmond, 509.2555 $$$

German DAS BOOT CAMP Longtime fixture for Deutsch festivities Royal Bavaria has brewed up a second round of exceptional cuisine and magnificent beer in a less expensive, faster-paced location in downtown Norman. 229 E Main, Norman, 701.3748 $ FASSLER HALL Bringing German flavor to Midtown via house-made sausages, warm soft pretzels with cheese sauce, duck fries and a heftig beer menu, plus a weekend brunch – what’s not to love? 421 NW 10th, OKC, 609.3300 $

Indian GOPURAM - TASTE OF INDIA A full-service restaurant whose richly appointed interior and attentive staff accord patrons the feel of fine dining, even during the plentifully stocked

Italian & Pizza EMPIRE SLICE HOUSE Reigning over the Plaza District in New York style (that means thin, flexible crust with a lot of surface area to cover in cheese and tasty toppings), it offers whole pizzas or slices, a full bar and a primo patio. 1734 NW 16th, OKC $ THE HEAT There’s really no need to be humble about this true Chicago-style pizza, boasting perhaps the best crust known to man. It’s one of our favorites; choose your toppings and think deep thoughts. 1319 S Broadway, Edmond, 715.1818 $ MONI’S Handmade, New Jersey-style brick oven pizza and authentic pasta recipes from Southern Italy in a casual, comfy ambience (ideal for dates). 17200 N May, Edmond, 285.5991 $$ PIZZERIA GUSTO Neapolitan-style pizza (which harnesses an extremely hot fire to quickly cook superfine flour crusts and quality ingredients) stars alongside Italy-inspired salads, pastas and appetizers. 2415 N Walker, OKC, 437.4992 $$ STELLA MODERN ITALIAN CUISINE A luscious spate of legitimately Italian tastes for a casual lunch, or romantic dinner, amid stylish scenery. The weekend brunch offerings are especially superb. 1201 N Walker, OKC, 235.2200 $$ TOMMY’S ITALIAN-AMERICAN GRILL Stylish and welcoming, this northside neighborhood Italian bar and grill offers up a full selection of beautifully done classic dishes, in addition to more imaginative creations, weekend brunch and some truly excellent brick oven pizza. 5516 W Memorial, OKC, 470.5577 $$ UPPER CRUST A chic, contemporary pizzeria and wine bar specializing in wood-fired, thin-crust New York-style pies complemented by a full menu and wine list. 5860 N Classen Blvd, OKC, 842.7743; 1205 NW 178th, Edmond, 285.8887 $$ VICTORIA’S A comfortable atmosphere, with local art on its walls and the art of pasta on its plates – the chicken lasagna and linguine with snow crab are especially excellent. 327 White, Norman, 329.0377; 3000 SW 104th, OKC, 759.3580 $ VITO’S RISTORANTE Homestyle Italian cuisine in an intimate setting where the staff and management treat customers like guests in their home.

It’s a small space, so calling ahead is recommended. 7521 N May, OKC, 848.4867 $$ WHEELHOUSE PIZZA A variety of daily slices and a bigger variety of 20-

PHOTOS BY SCOTTY O’DANIEL

AT THE BAR

if you have a date to impress. 201 E Sheridan, OKC, 236.8040 $$$

inch pies (mmm, try the Guido’s Speedo) bring pizza lovers in from all around, and wings, salads and sandwiches should keep every diner hungry for more. 11109 N May, OKC, 286.5814 $

Mexican & Latin American BARRIOS A serious collection of Latin-flavored deliciousness, including a brunch that’s maravilloso, in a cool Midtown space with a back patio that’s pure paradise. 1000 N Hudson, OKC, 702.6922 $ BIG TRUCK TACOS It’s nearly always standing-room-only at lunch, but don’t let that deter you; spend a few minutes in line and get an ample reward in the form of fast, fresh, imaginative taco creations. 530 NW 23rd, OKC, 525.8226 $ CAFÉ ANTIGUA Visitors can enjoy lunch options from beef stew to a club sandwich, but once they sample the luscious variety of Guatemalan breakfast options – served anytime – they may be perfectly happy to never order anything else. 1903 N Classen, OKC, 602.8984 $

finest, plus an oyster bar and tempting cocktails. 519 NW 23rd, OKC $$$ OFF THE HOOK It’s a choice destination for po’ boys, fried or grilled baskets and specialty items such as the smothered seafood fries. Go get hooked.

125 S Britton, OKC, 840.3474; 1920 S Meridian, OKC, 606.6040 $ PEARL’S OYSTER BAR A perennial OKC favorite for its flavorful seafood and spicy Creole-inspired dishes: Shrimp Diablo, Tabasco-infused Caesar salads, Andouille omelets at Sunday brunch and more. 5641 N Classen, OKC, 848.8008 $$ CRABTOWN A huge Bricktown warehouse where the Cajun Crab Boil is a favorite, guests are encouraged to “leave the silverware at home and dig in” and taste is king. 303 E Sheridan, OKC, 232.7227 $$

Steakhouse BOULEVARD STEAKHOUSE Perfectly soigné ambiance down to the last detail and cuisine easily in the metro’s elite – a sumptuous, if pricy, masterpiece. 505 S Boulevard, Edmond, 715.2333 $$$

CAFÉ KACAO A sunlit space filled with bright, vibrant flavors from the zesty traditions of Guatemala.

Lunch possibilities beckon, but it’s the breakfast specialties that truly dazzle.

3325 N Classen, OKC, 602.2883 $

BROADWAY 10 Cruise into the Buick building in Automobile Alley to savor steak supremacy or seafood selections (even sushi) in a cozy enclave amid urban bustle. 1101 N Broadway, OKC, 212.3949 $$$

CAFÉ DO BRASIL It’s a long way from OKC to Rio, but the savory menu in this Midtown hot spot covers the distance in a mouthful. Even brunch is a spicy, inimitable treat. 440 NW 11th, OKC, 525.9779 $$

CATTLEMEN’S Almost as old as the state itself, this Oklahoma institution’s immense corn-fed steaks and matchless atmosphere are history served anew every day. 1309 S Agnew, OKC, 236.0416 $$

HACIENDA TACOS Quality and variety make this restaurant in the Shoppes at Northpark a pleasure to visit, and to explore the menu again and again. 12086 N May, OKC, 254.3140 $

JAMIL’S STEAKHOUSE Saving room for your steak, lobster or prime rib is difficult when your gratis appetizers arrive in the form of a Lebanese bounty, but make the effort. Jamil’s has been feeding Oklahoma exceptionally well since 1964. 4910 N Lincoln, OKC, 525.8352 $$$

OSO ON PASEO Make sure your appetite is loaded for bear when you visit this patio-centric spot in the Paseo Arts District – their mantra is Tacos & Cocktails, and they produce both with expertise and enthusiasm. 603 NW 28th, OKC, 309.8226 $ TARAHUMARA’S Beloved by locals (there’s usually a line but it moves quickly), this airy ristorante serves huge, tasty Tex-Mex classics plus less ubiquitous fare like carnitas de puerco and mole poblano. 702 N Porter, Norman, 360.8070 $$

Seafood BRENT’S CAJUN Sit down to a massive platter of jambalaya, crawfish etoufee, Pasta Orleans or any of the wellseasoned temptations on the weekend brunch menu – and spice up your life.

3005 S Broadway, Edmond, 285.0911 $$ THE DRAKE The Good Egg Group’s flagship and a standard-bearer for diners who crave excellent seafood, it serves chef’s creations featuring the sea’s

MAHOGANY PRIME STEAKHOUSE The ambiance and service are sublime, but fine aged steak broiled to perfection is the star. 3241 W Memorial, OKC, 748.5959; 100 W Main, OKC, 208.8800 $$$

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events

KENNY JOHNSON

At the Hop Tick tock – the countdown is on for the OKC Ballet’s new season, opening Oct. 26-28 at the OKC Civic Center … or, as you might call it, Wonderland. With lavish costumes and a sensational set, choreography from Septime Webre and a Matthew Pierce score, plus assistance from puppets and student dancers and the OKC Philharmonic, it’s time to enjoy “Alice (in Wonderland).”

Don’t be late.

OCTOBER 2018 405 MAGAZINE

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events PRIME PICKS

Home, Cooking Oct. 14, Nichols Hills Got an appetite for beautiful, functional interior design? When it comes to the most important room of the house, the spaces on the annual Nichols Hills Kitchen Tour definitely hit the spot.

See the work of Sudderth Designs, Jennifer Welch Designs and AT Dwellings in the six tour homes, and don’t forget the delicious demonstrations at Culinary Kitchens, all to benefit Oklahoma Lawyers for Children and the Health Alliance for the Uninsured. Visit ocmsalliance.org.

Tip-Top Trio

Time for Three

Oct. 18, Armstrong Auditorium

Out of the Past

Dante Gabriel Rossetti, “The Palace of Art (St. Cecilia)”

Oct. 13-Jan. 6, OKC Museum of Art

The Industrial Revolution helped make everyday life easier for the average British citizen, but it wasn’t very glamorous. Artists who drew inspiration from nature and a more agrarian sensibility made waves in the art scene of their time, and star in the OKC Museum of Art’s new exhibition “Victorian Radicals: From the PreRaphaelites to the Arts & Crafts Movement,” featuring vibrant, beautifully detailed works from Millais, Ford Madox Brown, Dante Gabriel Rossetti and more.

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Pre-Season’s Greetings Oct. 10-12, Cox Center Sure, there are still two months until Christmas … but why wait until the busiest part of the holidays to get your shopping under wraps when the Junior League of OKC’s Mistletoe Market is such a present-purchaser’s paradise? More than 100 merchants from near and far are offering unique gifts, home and holiday décor, clothing, accessories and food at this 25th annual event, so ring those silver bells!

PHOTOS: TIME FOR THREE COURTESY ARMSTRONG AUDITORIUM; MISTLETOE MARKET COURTESY JUNIOR LEAGUE OF OKC

One for the money, two for the show, three for an even better show. That’s the plan at Armstrong Auditorium, which is kicking off its 20th anniversary performing arts season with a guest performance from the string ensemble and self-described “classically trained garage band” Time for Three. Bach, bluegrass, The Beatles – it’s all up for grabs thanks to their wide range of arrangements.

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events SPEAKERBOX

Old Face, New Energy Rod Stewart returns to rock OKC

EVERYTHING THROWN AGAINST THE WALL

T HE F IR ST T I M E I saw Rod Stewart

POWER PAT Also on the bill with Stewart is the original Riot Girl Pat Benatar, with her longtime husband/guitarist Neil Gerardo. As long as I am writing in publications, my primary goal is to see that Benatar is inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. It is criminal that she has not even been nominated.

While I appreciate Joan Jett being in the Hall, I’m amazed that people don’t remember how huge a star Benatar was in the 1980s. Strong voice and great songs were only part of her appeal; Benatar’s looks were perfect for the MTV era. She was the queen of the 1980s, releasing eight records, all of which went gold and multi-platinum. Like her peers during this decade, she made a lot of videos and was constantly changing her look and style. Hopefully, like her cohorts from the heyday, she gets nominated to the Hall soon. I can’t think of any American artist that is more deserving.

Tickets for the Rod Stewart show with Pat Benatar and Neil Gerardo are on sale now. Visit ticketmaster.com for more information. - JERRY CHURCH

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FLAMING LIPS “Seeing the Unseeable” “Scratching the Door” The Flaming Lips have been such an odd, long-gestating local creation that it’s hard to believe that they’ve been around for 35 years. And they’ve been on a major record label for 28 years, which is even more amazing when you think about it.

“Seeing the Unseeable” compiles the Oklahoma City group’s first four records before they signed to Warner Bros. in 1991. The box set also includes two discs of unreleased music, including “The Mushroom Tapes,” which were the demos that begat “In a Priest Driven Ambulance,” and a disc of rarities, B-sides and long-lost singles on odd labels.

“Scratching the Door” is a collection of the very first Flaming Lips recordings, when Wayne Coyne’s brother Mark was the lead vocalist. This collection of 19 songs shows the band as a raw, young punk rock group that, somehow, was still creating its signature guitar and drum sounds.

Though they have since moved on sonically and creatively from these records, these two new Rhino releases are like a high school yearbook.

It’s fun to go back and reminisce and think about how things have changed. - JC

ROD STEWART PHOTO BY JONAS MOHR

in concert was when I was a year out of high school. The “Camouflage Tour” date at the arena formerly known as the Myriad was just a few days before Halloween, and the 70 percent female audience were all wearing costumes.

Needless to say, it was one of the best concerts I’ve ever seen!

Stewart, now 73, finds ways to continue and thrive – just last month, he released “Blood Red Roses,” his 30th studio album as a solo artist. Plus, he still has the capacity to deliver a great show, as fans old and young should see when he returns to the 405 on Oct. 18 at Chesapeake Energy Arena, 100 W Reno.

Hits weren’t difficult for Stewart to generate. In 1971, he released “Maggie May” as a B-side and watched it blow up into an FM radio classic, and between 1975-1985, he released eight albums chock full of hits and cemented himself as an international superstar.

Success and touring wears on musicians, and Stewart eventually stopped writing his own songs. Still, with hits such as Curtis Mayfield’s “People Get Ready” in 1985 and Tom Waits’ “Downtown Train” in 1989, Stewart was still relevant. He then started covering American pop songs from the 1930s and 1940s in a series of records known as The Great American Songbook. He released five records in this series from 2002 to 2010, essentially re-inventing himself as a classic crooner. Rejuvenated of late, Stewart’s last three records have mostly been new songs written with English musician Kevin Savigar.

It’s good to see Stewart back in town after all these years. With the concert being close to Halloween, I’ll be curious to see how many fans show up in costume.

Kate Bunce, Musica, ca. 1895–97. Oil on canvas, 40 3/16 x 30 3/16 x 1 3/4 in., Birmingham Museums Trust (1897P17). © Birmingham Museums Trust

events SPOTLIGHT

Ring History’s Doorbell Stories continue on the Heritage Hills Home Tour T HE Y H AV E WATCHED over their residents and their neighborhood for decades, through generations of change as the city grows and develops around them, and while they are themselves not totally unchanged by the passage of years, stepping inside them feels uncannily like moving into the past. Five vintage homes are opening their doors for exploration on the 52nd annual Heritage Hills Historic Home Tour Oct. 13-14, and you’re invited to go time traveling.

The residents opening their homes are Autumn and Rob Abernathy, 431 NW 17th; Janel and James Bozarth, 215 NW 20th; Maureen and James Watson, 322 NW 15th; Renate and Chuck Wiggin, 301 NW 18th; and Kathy and John Michael Williams, 710 NW 14th. The tour also includes the Overholser Mansion, 405 NW 15th, and free admission to the Oklahoma Hall of Fame Gaylord-Pickens Museum at 1400 Classen Drive.

“The pride of ownership and sense of stewardship will be evident when you visit the five homes featured on this year’s home tour,” says Rickie Fray, 2018 tour co-chair along with Mary Kay

EVENTS OCT 12 Bingo for Babies This evening of dinner, dancing and hoping the announcer calls G-48 is a pleasure to experience, and helps Infant Crisis Services aid the community’s needy babies. OKC Golf & Country Club, 7000 NW Grand, OKC , 778.7619, infantcrisis.org

Gumerlock. “I invite everyone to come experience the history, unique architectural diversity and beautiful fall foliage of our neighborhood.”

The self-guided tour is open from noon to 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday, and allows visitors to explore at their own pace. A trolley is available to ferry guests between tour stops, which are

staffed with neighborhood volunteers to answer questions and provide historical information and stories about the homes’ pasts and the neighborhood’s present.

Visit heritagehills.org for tickets or more information about the tour’s food trucks, Classen SAS musical performance, Friday evening Twilight Party and more. - STEVE GILL

WANT TO SEE MORE? VISIT OUR ONLINE CALENDAR AT 405MAGAZINE.COM tasty, tuneful made-in-Oklahoma shopping festival. Brookhaven Village, 3700 W Robinson, Norman, 232.6552, oktourism.com

in this benefit for Edmond Fine Arts Institute. The Patriarch, 9 E Edwards, Edmond, 340.4481, edmondfinearts.com

OCT 19 Art on Tap The 15th serving of this annual brew bash has more than 80 beers waiting for you to sample as the centerpiece of a great party. OKC Museum of Art, 415 Couch, OKC, 236.3100, okcmoa.com

OCT 26 Light the Night Join survivors and supporters to celebrate, honor and remember lives touched by cancer in this beautifully moving ceremony. Boathouse District, 725 S Lincoln, OKC, lightthenight.org

OCT 12 Allied Arts Opus X X hits the spot for dynamite entertainment, as Allied Arts rounds out its second decade of biennial soirees with a cabaret affair. Criterion, 500 E Sheridan, OKC, 278.8944, alliedartsokc.com

OCT 20 Starlight Ball Improving care for ill children from across the state is a nice byproduct of this effervescent Children’s Hospital fundraiser. OKC Golf & Country Club, 7000 NW Grand, OKC, 271.2260, chf kids.com

OCT 28 Day of the Dead Fest Ofrendas, a parade, folkloric dancing and many Mexican treats mark this annual cultural celebration. Plaza District, 1700 NW 16th, OKC, plazadistrict.org

OCT 13 OK Wine Walk Wineries, breweries and merchants from across the state welcome you to a

OCT 21 OK Ale Trail Running a 5k is thirsty work - that’s why the beers are included with each lap

OCT 31-NOV 4 Crystal Cirque du Soleil takes to the ice for a dazzling, intensely acrobatic performance

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from exceptionally skilled skaters.

Cox Center, 1 Myriad Gardens, OKC, cirquedusoleil.com

MUSEUMS OCT 4-JAN 6 Cowboy Crossings Premier paintings meet examples of exquisite craftsmanship in this combined exhibition of two great Western arts organizations.

Nat’l Cowboy Museum, 1700 NE 63rd, OKC, 478.2250, nationalcowboymuseum.org OCT 5-DEC 30 Ticket to Ride Sweeping vistas and stuning landscapes from professional artists traveling by train fill this historic exhibition. Fred Jones Jr. Museum, 555 Elm, Norman, 325.3272, ou.edu/fjjma

PHOTO COURTESY HERITAGE HILLS HISTORIC HOME TOUR

ON THE RADAR

A sunlit reading spot in the Wiggin home

ERWIN REDL

Whiteout Erwin Redl 10/11/18 - 03/31/19 NW 11th and Broadway

Opening Reception 5:30–8 p.m. | Thursday, Oct. 11 Oklahoma City Community Foundation This fall, discover an installation of shifting and glowing lights at Campbell Art Park. Comprised of hundreds of LED spheres, Erwin Redl’s Whiteout will illuminate downtown Oklahoma City.

Learn more: okcontemp.org/whiteout.

Presented by the Oklahoma City Community Foundation

Exhibitions at Oklahoma Contemporary are always free. oklahomacontemporary.org | @okcontemporary | 3000 General Pershing Blvd. | Oklahoma City | 405 951 0000

events SPOTLIGHT

Corpus Deliciae Artspace’s body of collaborative art

Louis Clarizio, SINCE 1931.

He was the first white player to join the Negro Leagues. Now, he and 1 in 6 seniors face the threat of hunger and millions of more live in isolation. So pop by, drop off a hot meal and say a warm hello. Volunteer for Meals on Wheels at AmericaLetsDoLunch.org

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OKC gallery Artspace at Untitled is about to unveil its latest exhibition, celebrate the Halloween season, give a distinctively Oklahoma spin to a venerable group creativity project and raise funds for its future all at the same time. Prepare yourself for the Exquisite Corpse All Hallow’s Eve Celebration and Auction.

There are, for the record, no actual cadavers involved in the exhibition; Exquisite Corpse refers to a group activity in which each participant contributes part of a composition without seeing the whole, resulting in a curious, and creative, mishmash.

Artspace asked 60 local artists to help illustrate segments of human figures that had been divided into thirds, and the mixedand-matched results will remain on display at 1 NE 3rd Oct. 31-Nov. 24. But first comes the party.

The preview event Oct. 26 actually will have a few dead bodies, but at least they’ll be singing – along with palm readers, sword swallowers, live music, carnival games and even a screening of The Rocky Horror Picture Show, as well as art, food, drinks and auction items.

Gallery founder Laura Warriner calls the event “a true testament to the imagination and drive of the artists, volunteers, friends and staff who collaborate at Artspace. While Artspace and its mission has been steadfast in OKC for years, our organization is expanding its voice in new ways through multidisciplinary practices, making Artspace at Untitled one of the prominent creative spaces in Oklahoma.”

Find tickets and information online at 1ne3.org/exquisitecorpse/.

Creative outfits are strongly encouraged – there will be a costume contest although if you can’t decide what to wear, this is one event where the elements of your ensemble don’t necessarily have to match. - STEVE GILL

PHOTO COURTESY JOSEPH MILLS PHOTOGRAPHY

A L I T T L E BI T OF T HIS, a little bit of that … contemporary

! u o y o t s Cheer

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backstory

Tiffany Shines Again The return of a retro classic BACK I N 1966 , Nancy Sinatra’s go-go boots were walking all over the place.

The mini skirt was the current thing, and “Bonanza” and “Bewitched” were among the top-rated shows on television. Here in Oklahoma City, the northwest side was booming with new residential and commercial business.

Near the intersection of Northwest Highway and May Avenue, residents saw the opening of a swanky new apartment building. When its iconic red neon letters flickered on for the first time, “Tiffany” became the hot new property.

Through the years, however, time took its toll. The 12-story complex fell into disrepair and closed in 2012. But the old building still had plenty of life.

“Renovations began in December 2016,” says Cyndy Hoenig, publicist for The Tiffany. “The exterior was preserved and looks today almost exactly as it did in 1966. To accomplish that, we removed an addition in the front of the building, which revealed the original concrete canopy with the mosaic tile columns.

“We completely remodeled the existing tower and installed new plumbing, electrical, heating and air,” she says. “We also added new floor-to-ceiling windows, which expose the commanding views of Lake Hefner and the downtown skyline.”

Ferguson Property Group, which owns the complex, added even more amenities to its $25 million facelift. On the back of the property, they installed a raised deck with a saltwater pool, as well as an entire new building of luxury units.

“The Tiffany has some unique amenities, which would have been unheard of in 1966,” Hoenig says. “We have EV charging stations for electric cars, an automated package locker system for receiving UPS or FedEx deliveries, and we even have an

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automated mini-market where tenants can shop for snacks or grocery items 24 hours a day.”

It also has a theater room, along with a dog park and dog wash facilities, bike storage and an extensive exercise room.

There’s a sauna, tanning booths and a resident lounge, as well. All units are serviced by elevators and each has its own private balcony with extensive city views.

“We made a real attempt in the building to reflect the mid-century modern design,”

Hoenig says. “The iconic red, neon Tiffany sign has been dark for years, but it has been fully restored and people can see it brightly lit as they drive down Northwest Expressway.”

Visit tiffanyretro.com for more information.

“This is a real throwback to the 1960s, but with all of today’s comforts,” Hoenig says. “It is a thrill to be able to save a piece of the city’s history and bring it back to life for new generations.”

PHOTO BY COLT LILES

BY MARK BEUTLER

Climbed 5 peaks this month Won the bouldering World Cup Forgot to lock her front door

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