Bled In Your Pocket 2015

Maps Events Restaurants Cafes Sightseeing Activities Shopping Hotels

Bled

Including

Radovljica, Bohinj, Žirovnica and Kranj

2015

Lake Bled Slovenia’s most magical spot

FREE COPY

Issue Nº10

inyourpocket.com

Bled Film Festival Check out our four page pull out to the second annual film extravagana

Winner

Best of Slovenia

2015 Best wellness spa in Slovenia

Wellness Essense Bled

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents

Municipalities E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

arriving & getting around

7

Culture and events

8

Getting to and around Bled

Concerts, conferences, marathons & more

Restaurants

10

Cafes & Nightlife

17

sightseeing

18

sports & activities

23

World-class dining with unbeatable views Coffee, cakes and cocktails around the lake The island, the castle and much more

Adrenaline parks to relaxing wellness

Bled Film Festival

25

Pull out our special four-page feature on the 2nd annual film festival You’re never far from tradition at Lake Bled

Where to stay

29

Business suites to hostel bunks

shopping

32

Souvenirs, photography and more

Radovljica

34

This hilltop town is honestly sweet

Bohinj

37

Even more breathtaking than Bled

žirovnica

44

The home of Prešeren, Čop and Janša

kranj

46

Slovenia’s third biggest city and arguably its most underrated

postojna

48

The cave and the castle Magical. Photo by Tomo Jeseničnik / Shutterstock

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Maps

50 April - May 2015 5

Arriving & Getting around

We’re big fans of the entire length and breadth of Slovenia here at In Your Pocket (obviously), but even we have to admit that there is something about Bled and the surrounding area that will always give us goose bumps.

The big blue lake, the jagged snow-capped mountains, the idyllic island and iconic church, the most dramatically located castle and the best cream cake in the country are all here, so our excitement is to be expected.

The lake itself is more than enough reason to visit, but that isn’t to say Bled is a one trick pony, oh most certainly not. A short distance away is Vintgar Gorge, a stunning natural tourist site in it’s own right. Sweet little Radovljica is also nearby, and any town that comes with the slogan ‘honestly sweet’ is a winner in our books. In this issue we also take a look at Kranj and Žirovnica, two towns of drastically different size but with a link, that being Slovenia’s favourite icon France Prešeren. Finally, tell any Slovene that you’re visiting Lake Bled and there’s a good chance they will reply with something along the lines of ‘Bled is beautiful, but I prefer Lake Bohinj’. Turn to page 37 to find out why.

Publisher E S S E N TI A L Bled In Your Pocket C I T Y G U I D E S Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia Tel. +386 (0)30 316 607 bled@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com director Niko Slavnic M.Sc., niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com ISSN 1855-6132 ©IQBATOR d.o.o.

Printed Florjančič tisk Editorial editor John Bills Writer John Bills, Yuri Barron, James Cosier, Will Dunn design Mateja Štruc Photography Shutterstock, TIC Bled, Flickr, Jošt Gantar, TIC Radovljica, TIC Žirovnica and TIC Kranj Cover photo Jošt Gantar Sales & Circulation tel. +386 (0)30 316 602 Irena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar, Stanka Parkelj Rozina

After the success of last year Bled Film Festival returns for a second run through, and we’ve got a special four-page feature dedicated to it in the centre of this guide. Bled has a fine schedule of events throughout the year, so turn to page nine for our coverage.

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76). 2008-15.

All this considered, it all comes back to the lake and rightly so. Don’t be put off by the ever-growing number of tourists, as this delight deserves every single one of them.

As always we welcome any and all feedback, whether it is via Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, good old-fashioned email or launched via paper aeroplane from the top of Bled Island’s steps to the bottom.

Maps Monolit d.o.o., Turizem Bohinj

About iyp ESTONIA RUSSIA

LATVIA LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

6

Bled In Your Pocket

Not content with publishing more than 100 guides to cities across three continents, In Your Pocket is currently carrying out a new round of expansion for 2015. New cities due to be pocketed include Milan in Italy and Eindhoven in the Netherlands, while some old favourites, such as Budapest in Hungary and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad will be getting a reboot. And there is a brand new digital platform to look forward to: we will rolling out the new inyourpocket.com throughout April and May. In order to make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket). bled.inyourpocket.com

Arriving by Plane Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport is located approximately half way between Ljubljana and Bled, and you can expect to pay around €45 for a taxi into town. Buses are considerably cheaper (€5.40, with up to 19 connections on weekdays, but virtually none on weekends) although you have to transfer in Kranj. There are also up to six direct shuttles per day (€13). You can see the full schedules on the airport’s website at www.lju-airport.si.

Arriving by Bus Buses leave every hour on the hour from the main bus station in Ljubljana and take about 80 minutes to make the journey. Close to the town centre at the northeastern tip of the lake, the main bus station (glavno postajališče) has a kiosk outside selling chocolate, soft drinks and cigarettes. To get to the city centre, walk south along Cesta Svobode until you hit the water. Schedule and prices can be found on the official Ljubljana bus station website at www.ap-ljubljana.si.

Arriving by Train Bled has two train stations, but unfortunately neither is located in the centre of town. Over 20 trains a day from Ljubljana call at Lesce-Bled station which is on the main line, but is 4km away, meaning you will either have a lengthy hike or short bus ride into town. The other station is Bled-Jezero a couple kilometres to the west, which sees up to five trains a day from the capital, however you have to transfer at Jesenice which can lead to a total journey time of almost 3 hours.

Check out slovenia Railways’ incredibly user-friendly website for a complete schedule and prices at www.slo-zeleznice.si.

Arriving by car From Ljubljana take the A2 highway northwest out of the city and follow the signs for Kranj or Jesenice. From Austria, pass Jesenice following signs for Ljubljana. Bled is well sign-posted. The journey time is around 40 minutes from Ljubljana, and it may get very crowded on Sundays in season at the end of highway. Once you’ve reached the town, there is ample parking available, but most of it must be paid between the hours of 07:00-20:00, with prices ranging from €0.50-2 per hour or €3-10 per day. Inquiring about the various options at your hotel prior to arrival is usually a good idea. For those with electric cars, there is a free charging station on the lower level of the parking garage at Hotel Krim near Bled Sports Hall - the key can be collected at the hotel’s reception.

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2015

7

Culture and Events

Culture and Events Annual Events June 06.06 Saturday - 07.06 Sunday Medieval Days at Bled Castle The origins of Bled’s thousand year history are of course connected with its clifftop castle, the oldest in Slovenia by written records. The heart of the Brixen estate in Carniola, the castle buildings and courtyards were undoubtedly the scene of much tumultuous happenings, lest we say barbarisms. Performances at the festival in memory of this period include medieval music, a market, tasting of delicacies, and of course battle.Qwww.blejski-grad.si.

July 05.07 Sunday Rikli’s Walk to Straža Hill Swiss doctor Arnold Rikli was one of the first people to recognise the value and health benefits of Bled’s climate and location. He developed his own healing methods based on the effects of light, air and water, and went on to found the Natural Health Institute in 1855. To commemorate the good doctor’s contributions both to health and tourism in Bled, a recreational walk to Straža Hill is held every July. Entering its 17th year in 2015, the starting point is Hotel Golf at 07:00 sharp.

11.07 Saturday Night Run Around Lake Bled (Nočna 10km) As the name suggests, this unique take on the traditional 10km race takes place after the sun goes down.

Participants compete in one of five age groups, and the course consists of more than two laps around lake. The main event begins at 22:00, while a recreational 1.2km run leaves at 21:00, and a 400m and 800m children’s run at 20:00.Qwww.nocna10ka.net.

14.07 Tuesday - 18.07 Saturday Bled Golden Microphone Organised by Studio Osminka and with financial prizes for the victors, Bled Golden Microphone is an international singing competition for children, teens, youths and adults.

Taking place for the second year running, you won’t see us taking part but you will see a bevy of immensely talented vocalists over the five days of performances.Qtel. +386 (0)41 65 09 36, www.studio-osminka.com.

17.07 Friday - 19.07 Sunday Bled Days and Bled Night Held on a late July weekend each year, this festival is one of the summer’s main festivals in Bled, and consists of a diverse schedule of events ranging from a daily arts and crafts fair and children’s puppet shows to street theatre performances and concerts. One event not to be missed is the traditional lighting of candles on the lake followed by a fireworks display from the castle. See the official website for the complete programme.QVarious Venues, www.bled.si.

8

Bled In Your Pocket

August 30.07 Thursday - 02.08 Sunday Okarina Ethno Music Festival First held in 1991, the original line up for the then one-day Okarina Etno Festival contained just two artists, a group made up of Slovenes and Croats and another from Czech Republic. By 1998 this had exploded into a festival featuring 26 artists from 14 different countries spanning 10 days. Back down to a more streamlined line up this year, the Okarina Etno Festival is celebrating its 25th year of work. Taking place in Bled Castle and Spa Park, it is a colourful celebration of all things folk. Line up and more information can be found online.Qtel. +386 (0)4 572 97 70, info@zkbled.si, www.festival-okarina.si. Jul 30 - Aug 2, Aug 6 - 9.

29.08 Saturday Bled Mini Marathon and Recreational Run (Blejski Maraton) Another of Bled’s many annual sport events, the Bled Marathon includes both a 21km half-marathon and a 6km recreational run around the lake.Qwww.bled.si.

September 31.08 Monday - 01.09 Tuesday Bled Strategic Forum Held each September, the Bled Strategic Forum is intended to promote a high-level strategic dialogue between leaders from the private and public sectors on the key issues facing Europe and the 21st-century world. The aim of the Forum is to generate new strategies capable of allowing Europe to better use its strategic space and leverage, and also to attract political commitments to these strategies. In addition, the forum offers a platform for cooperation between the private and public sectors aimed at developing common integrated approaches to resolving outstanding challenges and tackling new ones.Qtel. +386 (0)1 478 21 08, fax +386 (0)1 478 23 55, bledstrategicforum.mzz@ gov.si, www.bledstrategicforum.org.

05.09 Saturday Bled Triathlon If you feel like going for a little 1500m swim, followed by a 40km bike ride, and topped off with a short 10km run, then the Bled Triathlon was made just for you! If you’re not up for the rigours of the course outlined above, there are many other races taking place at the same time with lengths suitable for amateurs. It’s possible to register via the internet.Qtel. +386 (0)1 832 72 20, info@trisportklub.si, www.trisport-klub.si.

November 14.11 Saturday Oberkrainer Festival This celebration of Oberkrainer music, a traditional Slovene folk style that is akin to the polka and waltz, will feature performances by various internationally renowned ensembles, bled.inyourpocket.com

and is guaranteed to liven up the town for at least one late autumn weekend. In addition to music, plenty of traditional food and drinks are also on hand, and the event always attracts thousands of visitors from Austria and Germany - where Oberkrainer is perhaps even more popular than in Slovenia - as well as from Italy, Hungary and elsewhere.

QSports Hall Bled, Ljubljanska 5, tel. +386 (0)4 57 80 500, lili.osterbenk@dzt.bled.si, www.bled.si.

December 05.12 Saturday - 08.12 Tuesday Potica Festival Taking place over four days in December, this festival is a celebration of all things Potica. There will be live potica baking, as well as the option of some potica purchasing and even workshops on how to make the fine dessert.

To cap it all off, the festival takes place on Bled Island and transport to and from will be via Pletna boat. Romance and pastries? We’re in.QBled Island, www.bled.si.

Merry December in Bled Christmas time in Bled is as an important time as anywhere else, with events held throughout the month of December.

The highlights are undoubtedly the Sinking of the Bell on Christmas night (which is based on a centuries-old legend involving murder, nuns, the Pope and the actual sinking of a bell) and New Year’s Eve celebrations along the waterfront with an almost legendary fireworks display. Every weekend in December there is also a full programme of events for children and arts fair held at Hotel Park, while on Christmas eve and Christmas day you can catch a glimpse of Santa Claus himself riding around the town on a horse-drawn sleigh. A full programme of the month’s events can be found on the city’s official website.Qwww.bled.si.

Seviqc Brežice Festival 22.06 Monday - 11.11 WEDNESDAY The Seviqc Brežice Festival is synonymous with early music in Slovenia and one of its most important cultural events. Most of the distinguished invited artists perform a carefully selected programme, which shows the colourfulness of musical styles from different European countries, from the middle ages right up to the beginning of the 20th century.

This diverse programme is the very aim of the Seviqc Brežice Festival, whose name comes from the abbreviation of the Latin expression Semper Viva Quam Creata, which means 'Always live as created'.Qtel. +386 (0)1 242 08 12, info@k-ramovs.si, www.seviqc-brezice.si

More events online at bled.inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket

2015

9

Restaurants

Restaurants gostilNa pRi plaNiNCu Housed inside a charming traditional house dating from 1903, one of Bled’s more well-known restaurants, Gostilna Pri Planincu’s Alpine ambience is no coincidence when you start unravelling the history of the area. With a small bar at the front and a dining area through a small passageway out the back, the traditional menu includes many local favourites including Karst ham and assorted home-made sausages.Qd-2, Grajska 8, tel. +386 (0)45 74 16 13/+386 (0)45 76 84 19, pri.planincu@siol.net, www.pri-planincu.com. open 09:00 - 24:00. TA6GBXS gRill RestauRaNt The Grill Restaurant at the centrally located Hotel Lovec does a lot of things well. Professional service from a knowledgable staff, and the best place to sit is outside on the large terrace where chefs will prepare your meal right in front of you while you enjoy the view towards the lake.

The menu is top quality from the starters to the desserts and every other course in between, and many of the ingredients are bought from small-scale local farmers - or fishermen in the case of the freshly caught trout from the nearby Sava Bohinjka river. Local dishes from local ingredients always get a thumbs up from us, and the seasonal offers also strike a positive chord. A children’s menu is also available.QLjubljanska 6, tel. +386 (0)4 620 41 26, reservations@kompas-lovec.com, www.grill-bled.com. open 10:00 - 23:00. PJALB

peNZioN MliNo Known as a favourite amongst gourmands and connoisseurs of fine food, this place rates five stars for its menu of typical Slovene cuisine. From season to season the four walls of the guesthouse buzz with a warm, lively atmosphere and even just outside the front door, the fun doesn’t stop as guests enjoy wonderful views of the castle, lake activities, walks and cycling around the area.QC-4, Svobode 45, tel. +386 (0)4 574 14 04, fax +386 (0)4 574 15 06, mlino@ mlino.si, www.mlino.si. open 08:00 - 23:00. (high season); 08.00 - 22.00 (low season) T6UIL� GBKW RestauRaNt 1906 Located in the stately four-star Hotel Triglav Bled (which, you guess it, was founded in 1906), a meal here is guaranteed to be a fine dining experience of the highest order. The kitchen team create some simply wonderful dishes, all of which are modern interpretations of traditional Slovene recipes, methods and ingredients. In 2011, the restaurant, and its culinary school, were awarded the prestigious Jakob Prize, given each year at Slovenia’s largest tourism fair to only one winner.QKolodvorska 33, tel. +386 (0)4 575 26 10/+386 (0)31 30 00 97, info@hoteltriglavbled. si, www.hoteltriglavbled.si. open 00:00 - 24:00.

PAW

Bled is full of many spots where the view will rival the cuisine at lunchtime. Photo by Dave Gratton / Flickr

Long famous for its legendary cream cakes, in recent years Bled’s culinary scene has really begun to flourish, with some of the country’s top chefs plying their trade at various venues in and near the town. For those who are simply looking to for a decent meal rather than the full on fourstar gourmet experience, Bled also offers plenty of choices, from hearty regional cuisine served in family-run ‘gostilna’ to Chinese, Mexican and various takeaway options.

slovEniAn Bled Castle RestauRaNt Under new management as of early 2015, the restaurant at Bled Castle is every bit as glorious as it should be. The diverse tastes of Slovenia are all on the menu, tradition given a slightly modern twist as it were. As good as the food is (and believe us, it’s great), the real reason to eat here is the views. The Alps, the lake, what more could you want?QGrajska Cesta, tel. +386 (0)4 620 34 44/+386 (0)1 361 94 16, sales@jezersek. si, www.jezersek.si. open 11:00 - 22:00. PALB gaRdeN village RestauRaNt We’ve made no secret in the past about our love of the Garden Village resort in Bled, so it will come as no surprise that we’re fully in love with the restaurant as well. Near to the pond we find grassy table tops as the most romantic of streams slides through the dining area, making for the sort of location we dreamt of before we ever began to travel. The food? Fresh from the garden to your plate, you’ll receive the goodness 10 Bled In Your Pocket

you are right to expect.QCesta Gorenjskega odreda 16, tel. +386 (0)8 389 92 21, restaurant@gardenvillagebled.com, www.gardenvillagebled.com. 12:00 - 16:00 snacks, 18:00 22:00 a la carte dinners. Sat & Sun 12:00 - 16:00. gostilNa MuRka A typical Slovenian gostilna, or rather Gorenjska gostilna, the sausage and sauerkraut being fine choices here, as well as other Slovene and also pasta dishes, all served in massive portions. Murka is mainly popular with locals, so it’s the perfect place to make that extra effort with a few phrases in the Slovene language. The covered outdoor seating of the terrace is a nice place to dine, out of the hot sun or indeed a summer shower. Extra offerings at Murka include schnapps and wine tastings, and medieval meals.

Qriklijeva 9, tel. +386 (0)45 74 33 40/+386 (0)41 24 59 18, info@gostilna-murka.com, www.gostilna-murka. com. open 10:00-22:00, Sat-Sun and holidays 12:0023:00. JALEB paNoRaMa Along the shores of Lake Bled, you can enjoy a fine selection of Slovene cuisine and steaks, as well as a killer wine and dessert list, complete with wonderful service of course.

Offering one of the most pristine views of any restaurant in Bled, Panorama definitely lives up to its name.Qd-3, Cesta Svobode 12, tel. +386 (0)4 579 12 75, fax +386 (0)4 574 18 41, panorama@hotelibled.com, www.sava-hotelsresorts.com. open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. bled.inyourpocket.com

RESTAURANT

Penzion Mlino TYPICAL SLOVENE DISHES, FISH, GAME, GRILL, HOUSE SPECIALITIES, AND MUCH MORE. LARGE TERRACE

QUALITY TRADITION T: +386 (0)4 574 14 04 E: mlino@mlino.si www.mlino.si

DOBRODOŠLI | WELCOME | WILLKOMMEN | BENVENUTI www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket

2015

11

Restaurants Zaka Situated at a quiet corner of the lake, a 15-minute walk from the main tourist centre, Zaka is actually a retreat, but remains convenient, being close to the BledJezero train station (up to five trains a day from Ljubljana). In addition to accommodation, a conference hall, tennis courts and the rowing centre; good grilled dishes including fresh fish can also be enjoyed in the restaurant or on its terrace overlooking the lake. High quality food and an abundance of it.QŽupančičeva 9, tel. +386 (0)4 574 17 09, info@bled-zaka.com, www.bled-zaka.com. open 00:00 - 24:00. ZH� BKW vila ajda Come here if you want to try local specialities in a romantic atmosphere! This typical alpine house offers favourable views of the lake, traditional Slovene food with a little creativity, dishes for diabetics and vegetarians, and the possibility of accommodation. There are several spacious, fully equipped apartments on offer in addition to the two floors of restaurant space seating up to 80 diners. The summer patio hosts another 80.

QCesta Svobode 27, tel. +386 (0)4 576 83 20, info@ vila-ajda.si , www.vila-ajda.si open 10:00-22:00.

JLBKW

Restaurants intErnAtionAl CHilli Just like the owner will tell you: ‘we just want to make our customers happy’. This restaurant looks like it originally wanted to sell Mexican food and then realized that it wouldn’t make everyone happy, so decided to offer more.

Even though it’s the only restaurant that offers Mexican food in Bled, you can still get Italian and international dishes. Having been a professional athlete, the owner travelled extensively and is now obsessed with having the same customer service he has seen around the world, and it shows.Qd-2, Svobode 9, tel. +386 (0)45 74 30 27, restavracijachilli@ yahoo.com. open 11:00 - 01:00. AUGB vila pRešeReN Checking out the area’s popular tourist spots doesn’t get any easier than this. The large scenic terrace of the villa’s café and restaurant puts you inches from the lake, where you can you take in all of Bled’s major attractions in one easy view, while sipping your cappuccino in hand. They also feature a full bistro-style menu of continental and regional fare, and from dessert you’ll find a range of Bled’s famous creamy cakes.Qd-2, Veslaška Promenada 14, tel. +386 (0)45 75 25 10, fax +386 (0)45 75 25 19, vila.preseren@siol.net, www.vilapreseren.si. open Mon-thur 07:00-24:00, FriSun 07:00-01:00. PTA6GBXSW

julijaNa Exclusive gastronomy, an exclusive location and an exclusive ambience - exclusive tends to be a word that best describes Julijana Restaurant. The views of the lake and the castle are enchanting, and the gourmet delicacies on offer are sure to impress . The restaurant can only accommodate some 20 people, which gives it a uniquely intimate character.. but also means getting in can be tough. As you’d expect Julijana Restaurant regularly attracts celebrities and other important guests, such as Donald Trump, Prince Charles and Matthew Perry, as well as a number of other presidents and royal family members.Qd-3, Cesta Svobode 12, tel. +386 (0)45 79 10 00, ghtoplice@hotelibled.com, www.sava-hotels-resorts.com. open 18:00 - 23:00.

PTALGBX laBod At the top of the hill leading from the bus station down to the lake itself, Labod offers plenty of space and plenty of choice. Mains start at €10 and feature the usual specialties: meat, fish and pasta dishes. It also has a Pokemon Plate for the kids. A daily tourist menu of three courses for only €12 is also available, featuring excellent soups, a main dish and a dessert. The pancakes in particular are excellent. It also has plenty of outdoor seating looking over the lake.Qd-2, Cesta Svobode 8a, tel. +386 (0)4 579 84 53, info@restavracijalabod.si, www.restavracijalabod. si. open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€6.60-20). PT� JAULEBKSW

We don’t camp ... ... we glamp.

Experience a true fairytale in Garden Village Bled, one of the most beautiful places on Earth.

Restaurant SLOVENIAN CUISINE - From Garden to Plate

Slovenian Culinary Adventure.

Local products enhanced and prepared by our Chef Dušan in a special garden ambience.

okaRiNa Slovenes are still slowly but surely discovering Indian food, and when the penny drops the Okarina Restaurant in Bled will be at forefront. The classic Indian dishes are represented, from samosas to pakori to a selection of curries. With a vast menu covering everything from sophisticated fare through to Balkan grilled meat and the aforementioned Indian selection, the hardest part really comes down to choosing what to eat. The great selection available to vegetarians makes Okarina a most excellent group option in Bled.Qd-3, Ljubljanska 8, tel. +386 (0)45 74 14 58, leo@okarina.com, www.okarina.com. open 12:00 15:00, 18:00-23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 00:00. (€8-30).

TA6GBXSW gRajska plaža Sat beneath the castle with glorious views of everything Bled has to offer, Grajska Plaža (Castle Beach) is undoubtedly one of Bled’s most energetic spots. An excellent menu of tasty dishes is found, covering everything from light lunches to Mediterranean and local specialties and much in between, with plenty on offer for vegetarians as well. The beach is also a fine place to head if you want to sit with a beverage and admire the views.QVeslaška promenada 11, tel. +386 (0)31 81 38 86, info@grajska-plaza. com, www.grajska-plaza.com. open 09:00 - 23:00.

ABK 12 Bled In Your Pocket

bled.inyourpocket.com

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The restaurant is open from 12:00 to 22:00.

Dinners from 18:00 onwards.

T: +386 (0) 838 99 221 E: restaurant@gardenvillagebled.com Cesta Gorenjskega odreda 16, Bled

www.gardenvillagebled.com 2015

13

Restaurants

Restaurants Restaurant Camping Bled Don’t be put off by the name - yes, this may be the restaurant of Bled’s largest campsite, but it also has some of the best views of anywhere on the lake. Also known as Zaka, it’s located at the far west end of Bled (on the small bay just before the road leaves the lakeside), with the lake’s famous island church just off the shore and the castle in the distance. The food is reasonably priced and comes in large hearty portions to satisfy demands of hungry campers. Try one of the special dishes, such as Granny’s mushroom soup, roast beef Pokljuka-style or the Camping Bled plate for two.QKidričeva 10b, tel. +386 (0)4 574 17 12, restaurant.zaka@gmail.com, www.restaurant-zaka.si.

TLEB Park On the shore of lake with a huge terrace perfect for lazily watching the day go by, Park Restaurant is the birthplace of the original Bled cream cake, so where better to pick one up? The interior is all calming lavender and golden swans, but views like the ones from the terrace aren’t to be avoided. The summer months also see live music on frequent occasion, adding more layers of charm to an already charming venue.QD-2/3, Cesta Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)4 579 16 00, kavarna@hotelibled.com, www. hotel-park-bled.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00.

Grill Babji Zob The unmistakable waft of grilled Balkan meat is always a positive in our book, and if your čevapčiči cravings get the better of you whilst in Bled then Babji Zob is the place to head. Just a short walk uphill from the lake itself, Babji Zob also does a fine line in baklava, like any self-respecting Balkan-infused restaurant should.QCesta svobode 8, tel. +386 (0)8 381 05 84, grillbabjizob.si/. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

Pizza Pizzeria Briksen Owned by Slovene ice hockey player Tomaž Razingar, it seems only natural that this incredibly popular pizzeria is located in Bled’s sports hall, whose main function is as an arena for hockey and other ice-based sports. In addition to the oversized pizzas, the menu features various burgers, fries, kebabs, sandwiches, sausages and even a full English breakfast, which are balanced out with some slightly healthier looking salads.QLjubljanska 5, tel. +386 (0)40 65 29 95, www.pizzerijabriksen.com.

Open 08:00 - 00:00. PYALVBW Pizzeria Rustika Located between the winding streets behind St Martin’s Church, Pizzeria Rustika is cosy pizza place that deserves the adjective rustic more than most. A fine selection of pizzas, burgers, sandwiches, and salads is on offer as well as various house specialties. Rustika also offers home delivery until 22:00, although we recommend visiting the restaurant itself for some of the best pizza in Bled.QD-2, Riklijeva 13, tel. +386 (0)45 76 89 00, info@pizzeria-rustika.com, www.pizzeria-rustika. com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. TAVGBK 14 Bled In Your Pocket

bled.inyourpocket.com

Rikli Bistro In the bustling heart of Bled, on the waterfront beneath Hotel Park, you can find the friendly Rikli Bistro. In fine weather, you may prefer to enjoy your meal with a view from the outdoor terrace. The food is prepared with the freshest ingredients, and the bistro also offers a wide selection of salads, pasta with various sauces and some delectable desserts.QD-2/3, Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)4 579 18 39, rikli@hotelibled.com, www.sava-hotelsresorts.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00. PJAULG� BKW Pizzeria Gallus Sure, you can come because of the view, which is beautiful. You might also come to enjoy the pizza, which is delicious and comes from a wood-fired oven. But the reason why we enjoy coming here the most is the lively service.

Not only will you enjoy their traditional Tuscan food, but you will also be entertained by the waiters who will serve you kindly and take great pride in the restaurant’s food.

QD-3 Ljubljanska 4, tel. +386 (0)45 74 32 99, www.pizzeriagallus.si, Open 11:00-22:00, Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00.

PJTALVB

Farmhouses Povšin You are truly a guest in a Slovenian tourist farmhouse (turistična kmetija), thus this is neither a restaurant nor a bone fide hotel. What you will find is delicious homemade food and drink, from meats to cheeses, to eggs and vegetables, dumplings and cakes - and of course brandy. The house is traditional, with its black kitchen (črna kuhinja) intact, and after meeting the family (including the pets) there are many sights nearby to explore on foot or bike (lake Bled, the castle, gorge etc).

QSelo 22, tel./fax +386 (0)4 576 76 30, povsin@siol. net, www.povsin-bled.com.

Around Bled Dvor Jezeršek Generally when a restaurant is awarded a title such as ‘Taste Slovenia - Culinary Centre’, you can be sure that what you will find within will tickle each and every taste bud, and this is for sure true with Dvor Jezeršek.

A Slovenian’s Slovenian restaurant in the little village of Cerkle na Gorenjskem just 2km from Ljubljana airport, it has taken the culinary traditions of the country, sprinkled a little modern seasoning and created something excellent. QZgornji Brnik 63, tel. +386 (0)4 252 94 10, info@jezersek.si, www.jezersek.si. Open 12:0022:00, Sun 12:00-17:00.

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2015

15

Cafes & Nightlife

Restaurants

PARK

KAVARNA CAFE

The only original cream cake in Bled ...

Taste it in Park cafe with beautiful lake view Today, cream cakes are made in numerous Slovenian patisseries, but the original recipe is used only at the Park cafe patisserie.

Original Bled Cream Cakes are made fresh every day.

tAstE gorEnJskA Another in the fine regional taste series produced by the Slovene tourist board, Taste Gorenjska focuses on the various flavours, tastes and foods that the Gorenjska region is known for. Bled and the surrounding area is known for the rich diversity of its nature, whether it is the mountain pastures that act as home to grazing cattle, sheep and goats, the arable land filled with buckwheat, barley and millet or the alpine rivers and their abundance of fresh fish, everywhere you look fresh culinary goodness is waiting to be discovered.

The brochure focuses on the many traditional dishes served throughout the region, and we’ve picked out a small handful of our favourites for the towns covered in this guide. Whilst it isn’t usually recommended to start with dessert, if we’re talking food and Bled we’ve got to go for hazelnut Potica with Figs from Bled Island.

Heading over to Bohinj we recommend the Flint Corn Žganci, a typical form of the polenta-type dish we find across Slovenia. When in Radovljica give the Linhart Cukr a try, which is the house dessert of the Lectar Inn and is named after the poet, historian and playwright who the town square is named after, Anton Linhart. Kranj might be more frequently associated with its sausage, but Kranjski Štrukelj shouldn’t be overlooked.

With a recipe first published in 1868, these little rolled pancakes were one of the earliest dishes in Europe to be characterised by geography. Finally we head to Žirovnica, and being the intrepid guide writers we are then we’ve got to go for the guts. Pork intestine with Milled Groats. The fatty section is the finest (obviously), and they say it tastes better when the sun shines. Dober tek!

clubs

jasMiN Jolly good kremšnita and a pot of tea for shirt buttons inside a modern albeit basic café next to the tourist office.

The tea in question comes in lots of different varieties and is served in dainty little pots. An ideal place to bring your aged aunt.Qd-3, Svobode 10, tel. +386 (0)45 74 38 27, jasmin.caji@telemach.net, www.jasmin-caji.si. open 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00. PAUGBX

kult kluB The almost waterfront terrace (just across the street from the lake) is the place to be during summer nights in Bled. The views are great, there’s usually a nice cool breeze coming off the water, and live concerts of varying genres and styles are held quite frequently. Don’t let the name intimidate you either, you won’t feel out of place here if you forgot to pack your black leather jeans and/or have a noticeable lack of tattoos. It is however located on the ground floor of the Bled Shopping Centre.

QLjubljanska 4, marko.valant@guest.arnes.si, www. kultbled.si. open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00.

YAEB

paRk RestauRaNt & CaFé Sitting opposite the Park hotel and restaurant, on the banks of the lake is the result of the legend that is Bled cream cake, or ‘Blejska Kremna Rezina’ in Slovene (see boxed text). The large open plan kitchen has to work damn hard to keep up with demand on busy Sunday afternoons and they do it with grace and ease. An absolute must!QCesta Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)45 79 18 18, kavarna@hotelibled. com, www.sava-hotels-resorts.com. open 09:00 - 21:00.

PJAULB slaščičaRNa šMoN A heralded local pastry shop since 1880, Slaščičarna Šmon is still the place to go for sweets when in Bled. It offers a wide range of freshly made pastries and desserts, as well as some delicious homemade ice cream. As with many places in Bled, the Kremna Rezina (Slovene Cream Cake) is the main event. When this is added to a gorgeous coffee and a seat outside in the sun, yet another slice of perfection is created in this most idyllic of places.Qd-2, Grajska 3, tel. +386 (0)4 574 16 16, info@smon.si, smon.si. open 07:30 - 21:00.

TJAULGBK

bArs & pubs aRt CaFé A popular social hangout for the younger clientele, especially students from the nearby IEDC Bled School of Management who like to stop by and mingle amongst themselves. When there’s an important sports event on TV, the place fills up fast and so do the glasses! The wide, open terrace that overlooks the lake also brings a steady flow of tourists, while the gold-framed art work and old spiral staircase adds a touch of charm to its homey interior. Qd-2, Cesta Svobode 7a, tel. +386 (0)45 76 71 79, loreks@telemach.net. open 07:00 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00.

PJA6ILGBXW puB loveC Growing up as we did in the middle of Britain, we’re fond of pubs. It comes as no surprise that we’re fond of Pub Lovec in that case, although this has little to do with our upbringing and more to do with what it is on offer here. Local beers, wines and spirits interspersed with international equivalents, tasting platters at excellent prices, pub snacks and even a drink of the month. Qd-3, Ljubljanska 6, tel. +386 (0)4 620 41 28, reservations@kompas-lovec.com, www.publovecbled.com/. open 18:00 - 23:00. PTA6LGBX

House of the Original Bled Cream Cake Kavarna Park, Cesta svobode 15, 4260 Bled, SLO T: +386 (0)4 579 18 18, E: kavarna@hotelibled.com

16 Bled In Your Pocket

caFeS

bled.inyourpocket.com

www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket

winE viNoteka viNaRte All the classic wine-cellar elements are elegantly presented in this chic wine bar. It’s got the stone walls and ceilings, the heavy wooden tables and a snazzy selection of more than 300 local Slovene wines. It’s a classy start for some wine-tasting evenings with friends, family or business associates. Why not begin with a glass of Cviček, a local favourite, or some excellent aromatic reds: like the Merlot or Refošk.Qd-3, Svobode 12, tel. +386 (0)4 579 13 32, vinarte@hotelibled.com, www. sava-hotels-resorts.com. open thur-Sun 17:00-19:00.

PJAUL

blED crEAm cAkE (krEmšnitA) Cream cakes, known in Bled for decades, are in fact the town’s symbol. Although you can buy them elsewhere, those from Bled are simply the best. Ištvan Lukačevič, the former manager of Hotel Park patisserie, tested recipes for many years before he finally succeeded. His cream cakes, which are prepared at this patisserie and sold in the café opposite the hotel, are famous. What is the secret?

In fact, there is no secret - only experience matters, and the cooks from Bled have plenty of that. Since 1953 they have been serving up ‘Kremšnita’ here, October 2013 seeing the 12 millionth slice unveiled in a whirl of glory at the annual carnival in its honour.

Let us tempt you with the recipe: a golden crispy crust made from butter dough (mixed with butter, not margarine), a delicious vanilla cream of exactly the right consistency (with exactly the right amount of flour - if there is too much the cakes are no good, if too little, they collapse after cutting), topped with whipped cream and a crispy layer of butter dough and finally, last but not least, a good dusting of icing sugar. You see? Your mouth is watering already.

2015

17

Sightseeing

Sightseeing One day in Bled

We’re close to running out of superlatives for Lake Bled. Photo by Jošt Gantar

Much more than just the iconic castle and island, Bled and the surrounding mountains offer a multitude to see and do.

Visit the helpful tourist office for more detailed information on what is available during your stay.

Essential Bled Bled Castle The oldest castle in Slovenia as well as the one with arguably the most dramatic location, Bled Castle is yet another iconic feature of this glorious destination. Perched protectively some 120m above the lake, the first written mention of it dates all the way back to 1011, when the German King Henry II ceded it to the Bishops of Brixen. It has seen many changes of ownership since, and has thus become something of a huge mish-mash of architectural styles. The walls are Romanesque, where as the majority of the other buildings making up the castle hail from the Renaissance.

The grounds are made up of two courtyards, connected by a staircase.

Aside from the predictably gob smacking views on offer, the castle also has a number of attractions to entice longer visitors, among them a small museum showing the history of Bled from the beginning of time to the present day, a wine cellar, an old printing press, a castle forge, souvenir shop and a restaurant. The castle is reached via a fairly steep 15-minute climb. Forming the most dramatic of backdrops to the life affirming romance of the lake, Bled Castle is a must-visit.QC-2, tel. +386 (0)4 572 97 82, fax +386 (0)4 572 97 72, blejski.grad@zkbled.si, www. blejski-grad.si. Open 08:00-21:00 Jun-Aug, 08:00-20:00 Apr-Jun & Sep-Nov, 08:00-18:00 Nov-Mar. Admission €9/7/4.50 for adults/students/children, with discounts for groups of 10 or more.

18 Bled In Your Pocket

Iglica Waterfal One of the jewels of Bled’s surrounding nature, Iglica waterfall is a 25m plume of water that plunges down a limestone rock face, many of which nearby serve as climbing walls. Here on the Suha stream, the fall is best admired in spring, a wooden stairway allowing access to the great surrounding views on the clifftop. Signposted from the village of Bohinjska Bela, south east of Bled lake by the road to Bohinj.QBohinjska Bela.

Lake Bled Bled’s most famous feature is the crystal-clear lake which has an island crowned by the 55-metre tower of the Baroque Church of the Assumption. The backdrop of mountains makes this view especially irresistible. Visitors can take a boat tour to the island (€12) on characteristic pletna boats, which include half an hour to wander around or visit the church. Boats leave from the Health Park, at Hotel Park and at the rowing centre.

The best place to start without doubt is the new Triglav Rose Information Centre (Infocenter Triglavska roža Bled). As the name would suggest this is the place to head for information regarding the town, the lake and the surroundings (other than this very guide of course).

The permanent exhibition ‘Paradise at the Foot of Triglav’ is as must-see as exhibitions get, a veritable rabbit-hole of beauty and science. It’ll be very easy to lose track of time whilst here, so be careful. Pick yourself up a coffee from the lovely little café inside before heading towards the main attractions.

We all know what we’re here to see, and luckily the magical Lake Bled is just a short 10minute walk from the info centre. Once you’ve taken a moment to appreciate the glorious scene in front of you, it’s time to start the leisurely stroll around the lake. By stroll we obviously mean cycle, so rent some bikes and hit the saddle. You’ll need to build up some energy for the cycle, so be sure to get yourself some Bled Cream Cake, or Kremšnita, The cakes at Hotel Park are particularly delicious. Head back out onto the bike, and slowly trundle around the lake. Be sure to stop and take photos of the island from every possible angle.

Bled Island is our next stop, and the best way to get out there is the romantic route, via a traditional Pletna Boat.

Once on the island, offer to carry the lady of your affections up the 99 steps. If you managed this, your marriage will be blissfully happy. If you don’t, you might have to work hard to fix this mess. The Church of the Assumption is the most recognisable symbol of the island and if you ring the bell three times you’ll get some luck, if you believe in that kind of stuff. Also be sure to climb the Bell Tower and try some delicious Potica in the café before heading back to shore.

Despite the desserts, the cycling, climbing and wife carrying should have brought you to an appetite by now, so this would be the perfect time to stop for lunch. The north-side of the lake has a number of interesting stops,

but for those willing to spend a little bit more money we’d suggest making the most of the bicycles and eating at the Garden Village Restaurant.

After lunch, the bike is the perfect mode of transport to head away from the heady, fast-paced (we’re not being serious) atmosphere of the lake and to see our favourite site outside. Just 6km away, Blejski Vintgar (Vintgar Gorge) is one of the most spectacular sights in the entire country.

Formed during the last ice age, the gorge is full of rocky crags and water, and is another must-see to add to the list.

After a breathtaking stop here, find yourself some breath to head back towards the lake.

The day is getting a little long so the rest of the day should be spent relaxing, and where better to do so than Slovenia’s oldest castle? Bled Castle is everything we wanted a castle to be when we were young, sat dramatically above a stunning lake with jagged snow-capped mountains providing the most incredible of backdrops. The best views of the lake are truly found here so let them soak into every pore of your being. The castle is essentially an exhibition centre these days, so allow yourself the space and time to take it all in.

The sun is setting and its time for dinner, so where better than the Bled Castle Restaurant? As mentioned, the views from up here just can’t be bettered, and you’ll be forgiven for letting your food go cold as you gawp at the beauty in front of you. Try not to do this, as the cuisine is special in its own right.

Day may have ended but the night is but young as they say, and luckily you don’t have to travel far for some excellent drinks. Grajska Plaža (Castle Beach) is found directly underneath the castle, and provides an excellent starting point for the evenings festivities. Head to Pub Lovec afterwards, for some of the finest beer in the country.

There we have it! The best that Bled has to offer in one single day, via the energy-efficient mode of bicycle. What are you waiting for?

Bled Castle is just one of many wonderful sights you can see in one day at Bled. Photo by Bas Lammers

Pick up your lady, stroll up the steps and romance is guaranteed.

Probably. Photo by Michele Alfieri / ShutterstockGantar

Natural Attractions Blejski Vintgar (Vintgar Gorge) One of the most spectacular natural sights in Slovenia is hidden away just north of Gorje and only 4km from Bled.

The Vintgar Gorge, known locally as Soteska Vintgar or Blejski Vintgar, was created during the last ice age when glacial movements forced the crystalline waters of the Radovna river to the northeast, where it was able to slowly cut its way through the limestone terrain, creating sheer canyon walls reaching heights of up to 100m.

Only officially discovered in 1891, the gorge’s natural beauty was immediately recognised and work commenced on the construction of a wooden walkway along its 1.6km length, opening to the public only two years later on 26 August 1893. bled.inyourpocket.com

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2015

19

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Churches St Martin’s Church A white neo-Gothic beauty erected in 1905, St Martin’s was designed by same architect who was responsible for Vienna’s town hall, and it shows in the sheer verticality of the building. The church is surrounded by the walls which had to protect the earlier church from Ottoman incursions, and the interior has frescoes from the late 1930s.QRiklijeva 26, www. zupnija-bled.si.

Museums & Galleries

Boats and water go together like magnet and steel, what better way to enjoy the lake?

The walkway has been renovated several times over the past century, but still looks very much the way it did when it first opened. Nowadays it leads awe-inspired visitors past rapids, pools and overgrown rocky crags to the 16m-high Šum waterfall at the gorgećs furthest end, which is said to be the highest fluvial waterfall in all of Slovenia. The short but breathtaking trek is definitely a must-do for anyone who visits the region!Qwww.vintgar.si. Open April - October 08:00-19:00.

Symbols of Bled Fijaker Coachmen Proud of their tradition, the Bled coachmen offer their services of horse drawn carriage transport every day of the year. Treat your loved one to a ride, be it rain or shine, their special umbrellas will stave off the elements should the latter threaten to dampen one’s spirits. Tradition can be seen most of all in the Fijaker uniform, complete with a jacket adorned of ruby red Gorenjska carnations, their top hats bouncing along as they whisk you almost anywhere in Bled lake’s vicinity or further afield, and even wait for a romantic drink or meal to be enjoyed, to then take you back. Turn up at their station in front of Festival Hall (Festivalna dvorana) in the summer months to find them waiting, in winter but their sign and contact details, on which you can also buy a gift voucher for the said loved one.Qtel. +386 (0)41 69 34 41/+386 (0)31 31 68 02, www.fijaker-bled.si.

Pletna Boats There’s a local saying, whereby one hasn’t really visited Bled without taking a ride in one of its traditional Pletna boats. Thought to have perhaps derived from the German ‘plateboot’, meaning flat bottomed boat, the Pletna has a history stretching back to the end of the 16th century.

Since then the respected profession of oarsman has been handed down through generations, with a special technique of standing rowing mastered by only a few. So board the wooden vessel at its widened stern, its pointed bow aimed at the other side of the turquoise waters, or squarely at the island, and be carried across, protected from the sun 20 Bled In Your Pocket

or rain by its colourful awning. The Pletna piers are located under Spa Park, the Park Hotel Bled café in Mlino and in Velika Zaka.Qtel. +386 (0)41 427 155, tdbled@telemach. net, www.td-bled.si. Open Nov - Mar 08:00-18:00, Sun & holidays 08:00-13:00; April - June & Sept - Oct 08:0019:00, Sun & holidays 11:00-17:00; Jul - Aug 08:00-21:00, Sun & holidays 10:00-18:00. Tickets €12.

Educational Beehouse Get a taste for good healthy Slovenian honey whilst in Bled, but not before you’ve earned it! By taking a one to two hour tour, you will see about 50 bee families at work (providing you come in season), admire the traditional hand-painted beehive panels, and learn and observe the life of the diligently renowned Carniolan bee. Only then can you taste and buy the produced golden stuff. Beehive panel painting workshops take place under a typical Slovene kozolec (hayrack), and children can delight in natural science days. Beekeeper Blaž Ambrožič will be your guide, with up to 20-30 visitors hosted at any one time. Located just south of Bled, in the village of Selo pri Bledu.QSelo pri Bledu, tel. +386 (0)41 65 71 20/+386 (0)41 22 74 07, www.kralov-med.si.

Exhibition Paradise at the Foot of Triglav A permanent exhibition in the new Triglav Information Centre in Bled, ‘Paradise at the Foot of Triglav’ is a fairly ambitious title that isn’t far from conveying the truth of what is on offer. It’s difficult to properly decide where to start, as the sheer amount of information on offer is almost overwhelming, not to mention the aesthetically pleasing manner in which it is presented. Needless to say, if there was anything you ever wanted to know at Triglav and the area, your question will be answered at this exhibition.QLjubljanska cesta 27, tel. +386 (0)4 578 02 05, info.trb@tnp.gov.si, www.tnp.si. 16 Apr 15 Oct 08:00 - 18:00, 16 Oct - 15 Apr 08:00 - 16:00. bled.inyourpocket.com

Gallery 14 A superb gallery space for Bled, from the Studio Černe outfit in Ljubljana. With exhibition activities in contemporary art and sculpture, plus high quality artistic equipment and materials, it’s a welcome addition to the cultural scene in town. The house in which the gallery resides, on Prešernova Cesta, bequeaths the heritage of one especially well known Černe, namely Josef, an ancestor of the modern gallery owning family whose saddle-making was known all the way to Vienna. There are two spaces here, 30m2 each, with temporary and permanent exhibitions of a diverse range of Slovene and foreign artists’ works.QPrešernova 14, tel. +386 (0)4 574 34 63, info@ studiocerne.si, www.studiocerne.si. Open , Thu, Fri 15:00 - 19:00, Sat 09.00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed.

Escape Rooms Escape Room Enigmarium A derelict house in the centre of Bled was once home to a particularly useless witch who managed to mangle a spell so badly (a spell to make cows fly no less) that she ended up locked inside. The latest escape room from the Enigmarium team, you and your teammates will be tasked with helping this poor old fool get out, as well as saving your own bacon in the process. Another excellent addition to the growing number of escape rooms in Slovenia. QCankarjeva 4, tel +386 (0)31 33 44 88, www.escape-room-bled.si Lockless Escape Room The first escape room to open in Bled, Lockless Escape Room still somehow manages to inject some freshness to the form. The Hotel of Mysteries is the setting, and some strange things are going on. You and your team will have to work together to navigate the various pitfalls inside, and a sprinkling of ingenuity may also be required. You may feel some curiosity, intrigue, maybe even a little fear, but we can guarantee you’ll feel excited throughout. With a second room based on the magical sights of Bled coming soon, you won’t find many better activities in town. Even if you can’t escape, the views are pretty magical! QPot na Lisice 4, tel. +386 (0)31 25 92 10, info@lockless.si, lockless.si. Open 13:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket

Tours & Tourist Information Infocenter Triglavska Roža Bled A modern multipurpose building, the information centre opened in 2014 and is a hugely informative first stop for new visitors to the region. The permanent exhibition ‘Paradise at the Foot of Triglav’ shows off everything the region has to offer, and the promo film ‘Land Under Triglav’ is particularly stunning. The helpful staff can help organise tours of the stunning scenery and activities available in Gorenjska. The multimedia hall also hosts regular events and workshops, a shop selling traditional art and craft products and a café. Free WiFi can be found throughout the building.QLjubljanska cesta 27, tel. +386 (0)4 578 02 05, info.trb@tnp.gov.si, www.tnp.si. 16 Apr - 15 Oct 08:00 - 18:00. 16 Oct - 15 Apr 08:00 - 16:00.

Pletna Tours In our humble opinion there is no better way than to get to Bled Island than via the traditional Pletna boat.

The vessel most associated with the lake and island, its origins go back to the 1590s. A flat-bottom wooden boat with a pointed bow and widened stern, it can transport as many as 20 people from shore to island at one time. It also offers it name to a group providing tours of the region. For €65 you get a three hour guided tour of the town and the lake, (plus €12 transport costs to the island via a Pletna boat of course). Also on offer are guided tours of Bled and nearby Bohinj, for €120. Head to the website for more information.Qtel. +386 (0)41 94 81 68, pletna@siol. net, www.pletna.si. pr1mo Tours There’s certainly no shortage of tour providers throughout Slovenia, but pr1mo tours (based in Bled) still manage to stick out from the pack. The first (and biggest) provider of eBikes in the country, pr1mo tours offer tours, activities, eBike rental, transfers, team building and more with emphasis on quality over quantity. The range of activities is astounding, from seeing the Julian Alps via helicopter, the incredible and unique Black Hole Experience, 1000 Springs Route and more (including a week long Four Corners of Slovenia package).QLjubljanska 1, tel. +386 (0)41 74 63 97, info@pr1motours.com, www. pr1motours.com.

TIC Bled QD-3, Cesta svobode 10, tel. +386 (0)4574 11 22, fax +386 (0)4574 15 55, tdbled@telemach.net, www.bled.si. Open 15 Apr - 15 Oct 08:00 - 16:00, 16 Oct - 14 Apr 2015

21

SportsRestaurants & Activities

Sightseeing Bled Island Of the many aesthetic wonders of Lake Bled, it is Bled Island (Blejski Otok) that is without doubt the most iconic.

It adorns the cover of this and pretty much every other guide dedicated to Bled, and a large chunk of guides for the entire country, and with good reason. It is the only true island in the entire country after all. It certainly isn’t huge, but the phrase ‘small but perfectly formed’ has never felt more apt. It is only accessible by boat, but we truly can’t think of any mode of transport we’d rather use to reach it.

The Church of the Mother of the God on the Lake (mouthy name, but rather poetic in Slovene) dominates the landscape, both visually and culturally. First mentioned in the 12th century, it has a history that stretches way before that and has undergone many renovations since. Thousands head to ring its Wishing Bell annually, which is purported to bring luck to those that ring it. USA Today included it in its list of the most beautiful churches in the world, for quite obvious reasons.

Elsewhere on the island we find a Bell Tower with a renewed Pendulum Clock at the top, not a spark of electricity in sight. There is also an exhibition house showcasing some of the finest Slovene art from past and present, as well as a fascinating permanent exhibition focused on traditional dress. Wrap up your visit by tasting Potica, a sort of nut roll made with all sorts of fillings, in the attractive café before returning to the shore.

Bell Tower and Pendulum Clock Separate from the church itself, the Bell Tower is 52m high and contains one large and two small bells. Every 15 minutes the bells chime to bring in the quarter, meaning there are plenty of opportunities to see the clock in action. Two opposite winding staircases lead the way up and down.

The way up is punctuated with information boards following the history of apparatus used to tell time, from using the position of the sun all the way through to the atomic clock. On the journey down however, these signs contain biblical verses made to encourage appreciation of how little time we have on this planet, and the importance of using it wisely. Some of them may be a little bleak, but the message is undeniably positive and clear.

Potica When it comes to sweets, Bled is first and foremost known for its famous cream cakes, which originated here in the 1950s. But in Slovenia as a whole, the nut roll cake known as potica is the traditional dessert of choice during most holidays and other important events. Regardless of the holiday, no Slovene celebration is complete without Potica. A traditional pastry-based nut roll baked in a bread oven using a round baking dish made of clay called a Potičnica, each region does it slightly differently keeping this centuries old dessert fresh. Walnut potica is the most common but the truth is that the number of fillings is left 22 Bled In Your Pocket

up entirely to the imagination of the person baking it. Everything from hazelnut to chocolate to even sausage and fish, there really are no limits to what can be put inside.

The variety doesn’t end there, as it can be eaten hot or cold, with cutlery or (obviously the best option) with your hands. Baking demonstrations and packages are available in the café on Bled Island. Email ahead to organize.QBled Island, tel. +386 (0)4 576 79 01, info@blejskiotok.si, www.blejskiotok.si. Open 09:00-16:00 (Nov-Mar), 09:00-18:00 (Apr & Oct), 09:00-19:00 (May-Sept).

Sales Gallery & Café You didn’t think Bled Island would go without a souvenir shop did you? The shop doubles (or triples, more accurately) with a café and a gallery showcasing the artistic works of many Slovene artists including Miha Maleš.

The shop is choc-full of traditional handicrafts and local products, twisted and turned into modern souvenirs.

Nice t-shirts too. Far from the tacky trap it could be, it somehow manages to add an element of class to the tourist souvenir shop, which is an impressive feat. The café is the perfect place to relax before getting the boat back to shore. Relax with a coffee and a slice of potica, taking in your last views of the lake from the island before heading back.

The Church of the Mother of God on the Lake The most iconic feature of the most iconic attraction in the country, it is the image of the church on the island that attracts so many curious visitors to Bled and Slovenia every single year. Whilst the location of it alone is reason enough to visit, the church itself is full of history and legend. It started life as a small wooden chapel, before being expanded into a church and renovated on many occasions through the centuries. A most understated elegance underpins the interior, with the Stations of the Cross predominantly showcased. The golden baroque altar juxtaposes gracefully with the faded frescoes on either side of it.

It is the Wishing Bell that gets the most attention however, and the story of its coming to be is a curious mix of fact and fiction. A lady, who lived at Bled Castle, had the bell made from her jewellery after the violent death of her husband. However, as the bell was being rowed out to the island from the shore, a storm hit causing the boat and all its contents (both human and decorative) to sink to the bottom of the lake. She was devastated, so she moved to Rome and took up life in a convent. When she died, the Pope was so devastated that he ordered the building of another bell to be transported to Bled.

Now, the story, we aren’t sure, but it is a fact that the bell that rings out from the island today was made in Rome.

Purported to give luck to those who ring it, it is a mustdo when on the island. bled.inyourpocket.com

Try to stay out of the rough at Bled Golf Course. We couldn’t resist a golf pun. Photo by TIC Bled

Known primarily for the beauty of its lake, castle and island-bound church, Bled also offers a wealth of sports opportunities for professionals, enthusiasts and families. For taking in the natural sights of the area there are numerous walking, hiking, cycling and horseback riding opportunities, while a bird’s eye view can be had by paragliding or ballooning. In addition, there are fine facilities for golf, mini golf, beach volleyball and tennis. Centred around a lake and rivers, there are also many water sports to choose from, including swimming, rafting, fishing, rowing and for those who’d like to get a bit more extreme diving, canyoning and hydrospeed. Surrounded by the Alps, sports such as skiing, snowshoeing, sledding, ice skating and ice climbing are popular during the winter months. And last but not least, for technophiles there is ample opportunity to hunt for treasure using so-called geocaching apps on your smartphone or other GPS-enable devices.

Golf Bled Golf & Country Club Situated only 4km from the town centre, Bled Golf Course first opened in 1937 and was redesigned by famous golf architect Donald Harradine in 1972. It’s the oldest Slovenian golf course and is said to be one of the most beautiful golf courses in central Europe. The green fees are not the cheapest in the country, but one look at the stunning vistas and the impressive course itself, and most players will consider it well worth it. There is both an 18-hole course and 9-hole short course, and real enthusiasts can combine them for a 27 holes of golfing bliss in a single day.QVrba 37a, tel. +386 (0)1 200 99 01, info@golfbled.si, www.golfbled.si. 18 holes €70, 9 holes €35. Discount packages are available for weekend stays, see the website for more info. www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket

Mini Golf With 3568 square metres of area, 18 holes and 288 metres of total length this is one of the largest concrete classic mini golf playgrounds in Europe! Built in 1964, this is actually the oldest golf course in the country, and there's plenty of snacks, ice cream, coffee and more to imbibe whilst you deliberate that. A host of competitions are held here, but mini golf is still the domain of fun, enjoyment and excitement. Even so, don't forget to bring your competitive spirit!QD-2/3, Cesta Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)41 84 00 79. Open 09:30-23:00 April to October. Adults €5, children €4.

Straža Hill Adventure Park A family adventure park with suspended footbridges, monkey bars, suspension bridges, carabiners and zip cords, Adventure Park (or Pustolovksi Park in Slovene) is suitably situated in a forest.

The 65 attractions and challenges are both professionally built to EU standards and constructed with respect for the natural surroundings. You’ll not find any tubular painted steel here, just logs, ropes and the odd steel cable to aid the adrenaline-filled descent from your suspended activities (between one and eight metres high). Popular with families, adults and groups alike; there are five differently coloured climbing tracks of varying difficulty. A brief safety course and all equipment are provided before entrance to the park. Located at the top of Straža ski centre.QStraža, tel. +386 (0)31 76 16 61, info@pustolovskipark-bled.si, www.pustolovski-park-bled.si. 4 April - 18 June: Saturday, Sunday and public holidays from 11:00-18:00, 29 June - 31 August: Every day from 10:00-20:00, 1 September - 27 September: Saturday, Sunday and public holidays from 11:00-18:00, 28 September - 25 October: Saturday, Sunday and public holidays from 11:00-17:00. Adults: €20, Children up to 14 years: €16, Children up to 7 years: €10.

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Sports & Activities Summer Tobogganing If you’d like to spice up your stay in Bled, then consider a visit to Straža Hill, which offers remarkable views and favourite recreational ground, only a few minutes’ walk from the centre of Bled. From spring to autumn you can enjoy in adrenalinedrenched sledding (ie summer tobogganing). The 520m track has an elevation difference of 131m, with sleds reaching speeds of up to 40 km/h - a real roller-coaster ride! A chairlift takes you on the top of the hill, and you can also take a relaxing walk on one of the many marked pathways or do some serious exercise along the Rikli Fitness Trail.QD-3, Pod Stražo, tel. +386 (0)4 578 05 30/+386 (0)31 33 06 47, turizem@ ibled.si, www.straza-bled.si. Open 10:00-20:00 every day from 22 June to 1 Sept, 11:00-18:00 Sat-Sun only from 27 April to 21 June and in Sept, and 11:00-17:00 Sat-Sun only in Oct. Adults/children €14/9, 3 July - 31 August €15/10.

Prices include chairlift, toboggan and three rides.

Swimming Public Lido Just below Bled’s castle rock, a grassy beach awaits those that want to go swimming in beautiful Bled lake. The swimming area is protected and kept clean for the safety of guests, and you can also rent a sun-bed, umbrella or mat for a small fee, or you can just bring your own and hide under the shade of the trees along the beach. A water slide on the premises is perfect for those coming with kids.QA-3, Veslaška Promenada 1, tel. +386 (0)4 578 05 28, turizem@ibled.si, www.kopalisce-bled.si. 13 Jun 4 Jul, 6 Aug - 13 Sept 09:00-19:00, 5 Jul - 5 Aug 09:00-20:00.

Closed on rainy days. Whole day - adults/students/children €7/5.50/4.50. Locker room €2, changing room €7.

Wellness Wellness Essense Bled Lake Bled is possibly the ultimate place for relaxation, and there isn’t a better option to indulge in this than Wellness Essense Bled. Located in the Penzion Alp guesthouse, a traditional Alpine pension itself, a wide range of treatments are available to suit all desires. Of particular interest is the Hay Sauna, a unique combination of traditional sauna and aroma-therapy with the added leisure of the countryside. It is a strangely enjoyable experience that we wholeheartedly recommend. Reservation is necessary for all services available.QCankarjeva 20c, tel. +386 (0)40 99 66 66, info@ essense.si, www.essense.si. Živa Wellness Živa means several things in Slovenian, one of them being ‘lively’ - and that’s just how you’ll feel after a full body and soul solution at this wellness centre. With a holistic approach to physical rejuvenation, there’s a wide range of massage available, body and facial treatments, plus a variety of saunas, and a plethora of water based delights to be lapped up; two floors of thermal pools, and of course a whirlpool. Well if it was good enough for Arnold Rikli!QD-3, Cankarjeva 4, tel. +386 (0)4 579 17 02, ziva@hotelibled.com, www.wellness-ziva.com. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 23:00. PTAULG 24 Bled In Your Pocket

Hills Around the Lake Straža A leisurely walk to the top, or chairlift, allows visitors to enjoy views of the lake from the south-east, the castle and also Mt. Stol in the middle distance. Both summer and winter activities are possible here, it being the best place to ski in Bled itself.

Osojnica Perhaps the best known spot for Bled’s burgeoning portfolio of photography, especially by the professionals, Osojnica is a 45-minute trek on a steep forest path, rising first to a peak of 685m (Mala Osojnica) then to 756m (Velika Osojnica), offering views of the main mountain ranges to the east, and the whole Gorenjska plain.

Ojstrica The narrow peaked mountain by name is a relatively easy walk from Camping Bled (turn left if coming from town), the said peak of which offering really good views of the lake and campsite.

Jelovica This Natura 2000 site gets overlooked in favour of some of Bled’s other wonderful natural attractions, but there’s plenty to appreciate up here as well. A plateau on the southern side of Bled, it is covered in pine tree forests and a mass of endangered bird species. Arguably its most interesting site is the cave under Babji Zob, another in Slovenia’s fine line of mysterious underworlds.

Mežakla Mežakla is a long undulating plateau about 15 km long, in the foothills of the Julian Alps. It is mostly covered with spruce and beech trees. There are many pastures and clear streams on the plateau. Mežakla is part of Triglav National Park, and can be easily accessed by forest road in Spodnje Gorje. The main attraction is a natural bridge and hidden partisan hospital.

Pokljuka Canyon Besides the famous Vintgar gorge you can visit a beautiful canyon near Krnica. The long and dramatic void is the remainder of the Ribščice stream, carved during the retreat of glaciers into limestone rock. It is the largest fossil canyon in Slovenia. Here we also find some karst features, such as a natural bridge, overhanging rocks and caves. The most famous is the Pokljuka gorge. Last century a narrow footbridge was built at the canyon’s narrowest point and subsequently named after a Serbian prince.

Bled Film Festival The second edition of Bled’s glamorous film festival hits the lake in 2015, and we’ve got all you need to know

Much more info online at bled.inyourpocket.com bled.inyourpocket.com

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Bled Film Festival

Bled Film Festival being finalised, but festival co-founder Daniel Utješanović has said that 2015’s youth section aims to promote culture and ecology amongst the youth.

BFF has established cooperation with water.org, a foundation active throughout the globe securing people access to drinking water and sanitation solutions. A special golf tournament will conclude during the festival, with fund being raised for the foundation.

Continuing the environmentally friendly theme, the festival will also see the return of last year’s hugely successful clean up campaign. Divers from the Slovenian Divers Federation (Slovenska potapljaška zveza) are expecting to pull up as much as four metric tons of waste from Lake Bled as well as the Sava and Krka rivers. That’s a lot of waste!

Water.org The issue of access to safe water is a very real problem around the world, and some of the statistics make for pretty grim reading. This is changing however, thanks to the good work put in by folk like the good people at water.org. Its aim is safe water and the dignity of a toilet for all and it has managed to transform hoardes of communities across the globe. Established in 2009 but tracing its roots back to 1990, water.org works tirelessly for real partnerships, greater transparency and much more. Once again, water.org will work in co-operation with Bled Film Festival, whose theme and ideology sits neatly to that of this excellent organisation.

Bled Film Festival Awards The festival will once more have an array of awards to be presented. In 2014 Italian actress Caterina Murino chaired the jury, and this years panel promises to be just as starstudded.

The 2014 Wishing Bell award for Best Actress was awarded to American actress Viviana Leo for her role in ‘The White Alligator’, a comedy directed by Raquel Almazan.

The equivalent Best Actor prize went to Belgium’s Benoit Poelvoordee, star of ‘Scouting for Zebras’. The hotly contested Best Documentary gong went to ‘Last Call at the Oasis’ by Jessica Yu. An independent jury, chaired

by Czech director Hanka Kastelicova, selected this USoriginated film on the water crisis facing the planet.

It wasn’t all expert panel selected, as the audiences of Bled Film Festival chose an Audience Award, with ‘Fish & Cat’ from Iranian filmmaker Shahram Mokri coming out on top. Each jury also conferred special mentions to ‘28’ a feature film from Sri Lankan Prasanna Jayakody, and the Swiss-Indian documentary ‘My Name is Salt’, directed by Farida Pasha.

Who will take home the awards in 2015? We look forward to finding out at the closing ceremony of the festival.

Rade Šerbedžija After the success of its first incarnation in 2014, Bled Film Festival returns for a second run this year. Taking place from between the 16th and 20th of June, feature films and documentaries take centre stage, continuing the theme of environmental issues focused on water, and a whole host of leading filmmakers from south-eastern Europe, Great Britain and the USA will be involved. An expert panel will once more take care of awarding the prizes, and the celebratory atmosphere of the event will be accentuated by interviews with the brightest stars, free film screenings in the outdoor theatre, VIP afterparties and much more.

This year the program includes eight documentaries, twelve feature films, two open-air screenings and a short youth film about water. Two premieres are included in all of this, including a special showing of a documentary about the Swiss born natural healer and physician Arnold Rikli, the man who is considered the father of health tourism in Bled.

The festival proves to be educational as well as entertaining however, as expected from such a socially responsible event. A water symposium will be held followed by a round table discussion on Climate Change, as well as a number of workshops following on from the main theme.

Another round table discussion on the subject of saving drinking water will also take place. The popular ‘Interview With a View’ series will return once more. Once again the European Film Academy (EFA) will meet in Bled, an 26 Bled In Your Pocket

impressive feat considering the fact EFA members rarely meet at the same location twice.

Slovenian president Borut Pahor is the honorary sponsor of the event, and BFF is also partnered with the IEDC Bled School of Management who will host an academic conference on water as a human right, as well as responsibility and opportunity ahead of the festival’s opening. The conference will feature renowned experts from Slovenian and abroad, including climatologist Lučka Kajfež Bogataj and human rights activist Tomo Križnar.

Internationally acclaimed Croatian-born actor Rade Šerbedžija will preside over proceedings once more, continuing towards the goal of making this a true mark on the annual calendar of Slovenia with an ever-increasing net of activists involved. Over 30,000 visitors to the festival are expected, and the celebrations will come to an end with a wonderful closing ceremony on Bled Island. We were lucky enough to attend this ceremony last year, and we can’t think of a more fitting location for such an event.

Returning in 2015 to lead the Bled Film Festival once more, Rade Šerbedžija is something of an institution throughout the former Yugoslavia. Born in Croatia and of Serbian descent, Šerbedžija was one of the most popular Yugoslav actors of the 1960’s and 70’s. He also dipped

his toes into the waters of directing, poetry and music with great success. Western eyes might also recognise him from roles in such Hollywood blockbusters as Mission: Impossible II, X-Men and Harry Potter.

BFF & WATER Surprisingly one of the few eco-film festivals in the world, Bled Film Festival’s major focus is of course on the preservation and management of the water resources on the planet. At the time of writing the full program was still bled.inyourpocket.com

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Where to Stay

Bled Film Festival BLED FILM PROGRAMME TUESDAY 16TH JUNE

10:00 - 20:00 - PRESENTATION OF SPONSORS - Promenade

12:30 - 13:00 - PROMENADE OPENING - Promenade Presentation of partners, gastronomy, animation and other activities

15:00 - 20:00 - FEATURE FILM (COMPETITION) - Festival Hall Three films, question and answer session

11:00 - 15:30 - IEDC WATER SYMPOSIUM - IEDC Accredited access 11:00 - 14:00 - DOCUMENTARY FILM (COMPETITION) Festival Hall Two films, question and answer session 12:30 - 20:00 - PRESENTATION OF SPONSORS - Promenade 19:30 - 20:00 - OFFICIAL OPENING OF THE FESTIVAL FIRST FEATURE FILM (COMPETITION) - Festival Hall Red carpet, accredited access

Cream of the Crop

16:00 - 17:30 - ROUND TABLE How to Save Drinking Water 22:00 - 01:00 - OPEN-AIR FILM - Promenade Commercial film screening

FRIDAY 19TH JUNE 10:00 - 01:00 - PROMENADE - Promenade Presentation of partners, gastronomy, animation and other activities

20:30 - OPENING PARTY - Promenade

11:00 - 14:00 - DOCUMENTARY FILM (COMPETITION) Festival Hall Two films, question and answer session

WEDNESDAY 17TH JUNE

13:00 - 14:00 - INTERVIEW WITH A VIEW - Bled Castle

10:00 - 01:00 - PROMENADE - Promenade Presentation of partners, gastronomy, animation and other activities

10:00 - 20:00 - PRESENTATION OF SPONSORS - Promenade 15:00 - 20:00 - FEATURE FILM (COMPETITION) - Festival Hall Three films, question and answer session

13:00 - 14:00 - INTERVIEW WITH A VIEW - Bled Castle 10:00 - 20:00 - PRESENTATION OF SPONSORS - Promenade

22:00 - 01:00 - OPEN-AIR FILM - Promenade Commercial film screening

11:00 - 14:00 - DOCUMENTARY FILM (COMPETITION) Festival Hall Two films, question and answer session

SATURDAY 20TH JUNE

15:00 - 20:00 - FEATURE FILM (COMPETITION) - Festival Hall Two films, question and answer session

10:00 - 01:00 - PROMENADE - Promenade Presentation of partners, gastronomy, animation and other activities

21:00 - 22:00 - CINEPLEXX SURPRISE FILM PREMIERE Festival Hall

THURSDAY 18TH JUNE 10:00 - 01:00 - PROMENADE - Promenade Presentation of partners, gastronomy, animation and other activities 11:00 - 14:00 - DOCUMENTARY FILM (COMPETITION) Festival Hall Two films, question and answer session

10:00 - 20:00 - PRESENTATION OF SPONSORS - Promenade 13:00 - 15:00 - SPECIAL FILM SCREENING - Festival Hall Documentary film premiere (Arnold Rikli: 56 minutes) Accredited access/ticket access 15:00 - 17:00 - FEATURE FILM (COMPETITION) - Festival Hall One film 21:00 - 22:00 - CLOSING AND AWARD CEREMONY* Festival Hall/Bled Island Invitation only 22:30 - CLOSING AFTER PARTY - Promenade

13:00 - 14:00 - INTERVIEW WITH A VIEW - Bled Castle

28 Bled In Your Pocket

Bled provides plenty of choice for those wishing to make more than a day out of their visit to the town. As well as the hotel listings here, the tourist information advisors can provide the visitor with plenty of advice on the best accommodation options available. Be warned though that during the peak summer and winter seasons rooms fill up fast.

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Grand Hotel Toplice Complete with its legendary thermal swimming pool that provides more than enough of a reason to stay here anyway, Toplice’s rather stark exterior betrays wealth of comfort and style inside its walls. The rooms and suites are all welldesigned, some of them exceedingly elegant, and all coming with en suite bathrooms, cable television, minibars and internet access. The lakeside location is arguably the best in Bled, with further attractions including three restaurants plus two bars, as well as excellent wellness and conference facilities.QD-3, Cesta Svobode 12, tel. +386 (0)4 579 10 00, ghtoplice@hotelibled.com, www.sava-hotels-resorts. com. PHARUFLGKDXCW

Upmarket Best Western Premier Hotel Lovec Standing for over 100 years now, Hotel Lovec brings a unique hominess to the Bled accommodation table. Its architecture is informed and influenced by its surroundings, leaving it in complete harmony with the beauty it finds itself in. The on-site wellness centre makes Lovec the very definition of relaxation, a peaceful utopia in the most gorgeous of surroundings. Its Grill Restaurant is well worth nipping into as well. Hotel Lovec truly is the complete package.QD-3, Ljubljanska 6, tel. +386 (0)4 620 41 00, info@lovechotel.com, www.lovechotel.com.

PHAR6ULGKDXCW Garden Village Resort It’s a point that’s been rammed home to the point of fatigue, but Bled is a beautiful place, the hotels are beautiful, everything is beautiful. For somewhere to stand out it must truly be special, and we’re still not sure if the term ‘special’ really does Garden Village Resort justice at all. It’s a romantic’s dream.

The simple exteriors mask the most stylish interiors in this dream-like accommodation. Tree houses, a garden restaurant with a small stream dissecting it, glamping, it even provides a studio apartment with a Jacuzzi in the living room.QCesta Gorenjskega Odreda 16, tel. +386 (0)83 89 92 20, info@ gardenvillagebled.com, www.gardenvillagebled.com.

Golf A smidgen up the hill from the lake in a secluded area of trees, the almost pagoda-looking Hotel Golf’s reputation as a haven of tranquillity is clearly warranted. The cool blue and cream rooms feature en suite facilities with either bath or shower, cable television and balconies, some with excellent views of the lake and mountains. Four kilometres from the superb 18-hole golf course, other treats include good wellness facilities, conference rooms and a magnificent inwww.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket

door swimming pool.QD-3, Cankarjeva 4, tel. +386 (0)45 79 17 00, hotelgolf@hotelibled.com, www.sava-hotelsresorts.com. PTHARLGKDXCW Kompas We can’t resist a panoramic terrace in the summer, with views looking over the lake and the mountains in the distance. In fact, we defy anyone to resist. Hotel Kompas offers this in its most charming veranda, but that is just the tip of this most luxurious iceberg. Built in an Alpine style to compliment the environment in which it finds itself, Kompas also has relaxation and fitness centres for those wanting to de-stress or exercise respectively.QD-3, Cankarjeva 2, tel. +386 (0)4 620 51 00, info@kompashotel.com, www.kompashotel.com.

PTHA6UFLGKDXCW Vila Alice As far as first impressions go, Vila Alice really couldn’t make a better one. A short walk from the lake and the bus station, this century old house has been modernised in the most adorable fashion and simply put is one of the prettiest boutique hotels we’ve come across. Seven spacious rooms fill the house, with the room named ‘Fire’ being the standout. The staff is multi-lingual and immensely helpful, the breakfast is beautifully varied.

Such attention to detail is to be cherished.QD-2, Prešernova 26, tel. +386 (0)59 95 87 80, fax +386 (0)40 23 13 03, info@ vila-alice.com, www.vila-alice.si. 7 rooms (singles €100, twins €160, superior €240). PJHARLBDW Triglav Situated on the less-developed western shore of the lake, this recently renovated Bled mainstay has thankfully managed to maintain the rustic charm and elegance you would expect from a hundred-year old hotel located in one of Slovenia’s most idyllic settings. As long as you’re not adverse to the colour yellow, it’s 22 cozy rooms and excellent service are a great value, especially during the low season. Just make sure to request a lake view. The hotel also arranges a variety of activities and excursions, from cooking workshops to horseback riding to day-long steam train journeys through the Alps.QA2, Kolodvorska 33, tel. +386 (0)45 75 26 10, fax +386 (0)45 75 26 11, info@hoteltriglavbled.si, www.hoteltriglavbled. si. PTJARUIFLEGDW Vila Bled Whilst the grand stairs leading up to an equally grand building may look a little daunting at first, what is waiting at the top is quite the treat. Josip Tito deemed it good enough to act as his summer residence and many foreign dignitaries were hosted here, such as Soviet leader Nikita Krushchev, Indira Ghandi and even Kim Il Sung.

Since opening as a hotel in 1984, it has also had Prince Charles, Paul McCartney and Eva Herzigova through its doors. Quite the list. Spacious suites with elegant 1950s furnishing are the order of the day, with a gorgeous restaurant and peaceful coffee room to boot.QB-4, Cesta Svobode 26, tel. +386 (0)4 575 37 10, vilabled@gov. si, www.vilabled.com. Open from April till October.

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Where to Stay paRk Hotel Bled A huge waterside hotel from the golden age of Yugoslavia, with splendid balconies, nicely appointed rooms all coming with en suite facilities, an indoor heated pool and a definite emphasis on wellness and fitness in general. All rooms overlooking the lake come with air conditioning, plus there’s a nice choice of bars and restaurants. The hotel is famous for its kremšnita cream cakes, which it has now produced over 12 million of.Qd-2/3, Cesta Svobode 15, tel. +386 (0)4 579 18 00, hotelpark@hotelibled.com, www.sava-hotelsresorts.com. ARUFLGKDXCW

miD-rAngE jadRaN The Garni Hotel Jadran, with its distinctive large balconies entwined with thick green ivy, richly old-fashioned rooms and architecturally pleasing structure is a gratifying choice of accommodation, not to mention its location being close to explore the beautiful surroundings Bled has to offer.

Breakfast is served in a deliberately retro-style parlour and you can opt for dinner at its partner restaurant, the Panorama.Qd-3, Cesta Svobode 21, tel. +386 (0)4 579 13 65, fax +386 (0)4 574 16 61, hoteljadran@hotelibled.com, www. sava-hotels-resorts.com. TJHA6ULBK jeloviCa The shortest of strolls from the lake itself, Hotel Jelovica is a well-established hotel in Bled that has garnered a fine reputation for itself, and for good reason. With 89 rooms it certainly isn’t on the small side and caters for large groups exceptionally well as a result. Jelovica’s trump card is the sheer number of communal extras on offer, from the health and beauty centre to sports rooms to conference rooms and much more.Qd-2, Svobode 8, tel. +386 (0)45 79 60 00, fax +386 (0)4 579 60 10, jelovica@hotel-jelovica.si, www. hotel-jelovica.si. AFLGKDXCW

Where to stay venison we’ve had. The restaurants also has a number of different restaurant rooms to suit any and all moods.Qd3, Cesta Svobode 45, tel. +386 (0)4 574 14 04, fax +386 (0)4 574 15 06, mlino@mlino.si, www.mlino.si. saviCa The magnificently renovated Savica is one of Slovenia’s more family-friendly hotels. With a grand total of 90 bright, colourful rooms and 14 apartments complete with self-contained kitchen units, facilities include cable television, en suite facilities with a choice of either bath or shower, minibars and balconies in every room. Attractions for families travelling with their children include interconnected rooms, two communal play areas and the occasional children’s entertainment.QCankarjeva 6, tel. +386 (0)45 79 19 00, hotelsavica@hotelibled.com, www. sava-hotels-resorts.com. PTARFLKDC tRst A friendly, small hotel along the main high street offers rooms with a view of the Bled’s castle and lake, but its doorstep is almost crammed up onto its busy, noisy street. Due to the hotel’s lack of services, it invites its guests for discounts and special offers at its sister hotels: Grand Hotel Toplice for its thermal pool and wellness programmes, and the nearby Golf Hotel which provides a beauty centre, a sauna and more besides.Qd-3, Svobode 19, tel. +386 (0)4 579 12 86, fax +386 (0)4 574 16 61, hoteltrst@hotelibled.com, www. sava-hotels-resorts.com. TJA6UGKDC

pletNa RooMs A welcoming family-owned establishment in the small lakeside village of Milno (only a mile away from the centre of Bled) provides an enjoyable stay full of activities at your very doorstep. Directly in front of the pension, you will find a perfect spot for swimming out into the pristine lake on a summer’s day or you can opt to hire a boat, also at the wharf to the lake’s little islet for just €12-17.QC-4, Cesta Svobode 37, tel. +386 (0)4 57 43 702/+386 (0)41 393 899, pletna@bled.net, www.sloveniaholidays.com/ sobe-pletna. TJA6LW

hoStelS Hostel HaCieNda Situated in a quiet neighbourhood some 400m from the lake, guest are able to enjoy the kind of peace and relaxation that is more or less impossible to come by in the always bustling centre of town. The house is surrounded by a large garden where guests can freely play volleyball, badminton or football, and inside there’s a party room downstairs with table football and darts.

Those staying three or more days can get free transfers to the local bus and train stations, a 50% discount to the airport and further discounts the Bled Tours travel agency, which also runs the place.Qe-4, Jelovška 25, tel. +386 (0)31 321 100, agency@bledtours.si.

A6LBXW tRavelleR’s HaveN This lovely 20th century house turned youth-hostel is perfect for the backpacker or budget traveller seeking a cheap bunk-bed and a location that is close to the town, the lake and a supermarket. Guests can make use of the common room, kitchen, an internet-connected computer and a washing machine, and borrow bikes for free.Qd-2, riklijeva 1, tel. +386 (0)41 39 65 45, travellers-haven@t-2. net, www.travellers-haven.si.

jeZeRska Hiša This small family run inn offers homey accommodation amidst the lush greenery of the Bled golf course (4km from Lake Bled) - the perfect place for a peaceful retreat or, depending on how you play, a relaxing golfing weekend. The staff are very helpful, whilst rooms are comfortable and spacious with balconies looking out to the mountains. Guests also receive an excellent complementary breakfast and exclusive access to the immaculate golf course. The inn’s restaurant serve very good local specialities with decent value set menus.QBled Golf Course, alpska 114, tel. +386 (0)4 53 73 305/+386 (0)41 762 636, lakehousebled@gmail. com, www.lake-house-bled.com.

ApArtmEnts Bled apaRtMeNts Only 800m from the lake on the main road into town, Bled Apartments offer self-catering accommodation just a short walk away from everything. With studios and apartments for up to four people, it has free on-site parking and plenty of amenities just a stones throw away. Frequent last minute special offers are available, including such gems as a free boat ride out to the island on the lake. Free Wi-Fi is offered throughout as well.QLjubljanska 32, tel. +386 (0)41 66 76 61, bled.apartments@gmail.com, www. bledapartment.si.

peNZioN MliNo Nestled neatly on the coastline of the lake, Penzion Mlino provides not only some of the most enchanting views of the lake but also a great option for staying in Bled - guests can even take advantage of free bike rentals. Thirteen simple but elegantly furnished en suite rooms are complimented by the restaurant, which serves some of the best 30 Bled In Your Pocket

buDgEt

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Shopping ShoppinG centre Bled sHoppiNg CeNtRe We’ll be the first to admit that nobody visits Lake Bled to check out a shopping centre, but then we suppose not many shopping centres are situated next to majestic lakes.

The Bled Shopping Centre (it is known by a different name, but you'll have to ask the locals about that) covers four floors and contains over 60 outlets within its boundaries.

Cafes, restaurants, fashion stores, souvenirs, bars, clubs, supermarkets, pharmacies and more, if you need it you can more than likely find it in the Bled Shopping Centre.

Qd-3, Ljubljanska 4, tel. +386 (0)45 74 11 10, fax +386 (0)45 74 11 20.

GiFtS & SouvenirS gaRdeN village sHop The Garden Village Empire continues to grow with the opening of the Garden Village shop. Now, close your eyes and imagine somewhere called the ‘Garden Village Shop’. What you imagined won’t be too far from the reality here, as nature really does take over. All of Slovenia is covered, whether it is prosciutto from the Karst, pumpkin seed oil from Prekmurje, Slovenian whiskey and more (including some particularly unusual jams). If you’re unsure, head over to the tasting corner to get some samples.QCesta Gorenjskega odreda 16, tel. +386 (0)40 55 23 25, shop@gardenvillagebled.com, gardenvillagebled.com/en/shop/.

HoNeyHouse Bled Does exactly what it says on the tin, well jar actually. In fact, there are more than just jars here, indeed every kind of honey and related memorabilia you could imagine. The sweet sticky stuff is a locally produced domestic delicacy that makes for a more authentic souvenir than a lot of the tacky rubbish (for want of a better word) out there. You’ll find liquor, wines, sweets and even cold remedies, in addition to plain good old fashioned HONEY!Qd-3, Ljubljanska 4, tel. +386 (0)46 20 97 00, aerton@amis.net. open 09:00 - 19:00. tRgoviNa alBidaR With an unbeatable location on the shores of the lake, Trgovina Albidar is a fine place to stop to pick up some souvenirs during your time in Bled. Here we find many products made from the internationally renowned Rogaška crystal, including glasses, vases and much more.

Albidar also sells adorable models depicting traditional national costumes, and you can’t get more Slovenian than that.QCesta svobode 10, tel. +386 (0)4 574 32 10, barbisodja@gmail.com. open 09:00 - 20:00. sitRa With two shops (Foto Sitra & Antika Sitra) in a primer than prime location, look no further for all the photography supplies tourists could ever need as well as a wide range of souvenirs and personalized gifts. Both shops are situated within the main shopping centre by the lake. QLjubljanska 4, +386 (0)4 574 13 25, foto@sitra.si jošt gaNtaR pHotogRapHy If you’re looking for excellent photography, look no further. Jošt Gantar is too good to specialise, with top quality work in property photography, photo tours, events and weddings and more. If you want to capture a particularly special moment, Jošt is your man. Qtel +386 (0)41 24 65 49, jost.gantar@gmail.com, www.jostgantar.com.

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Radovljica

Radovljica settlement, nowadays Radovljica Mansion dominates the upper section of Linhart Square and is one of the centres of cultural life in the region. Expanded and renovated over the centuries, much of its appearance dates from the mid-17th century, while the High Baroque façade was added in the early 18th century. It is now home to part of the permanent collection of the Municipal Museum of Radovljica and the Apiculture Museum. However, the mansion’s single most famous element is likely the glorious Baroque Hall on the first floor, with sweeping views of the mountains in the distance it is a popular venues for weddings, concerts and other events.

QLinhartov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)4 531 5112, www.radolca.si.

The gorgeous main square of Radovljica

Radovljica, or Radol’ca as it is more affectionately known, may not be as well-known as nearby Bled, but it boasts a wide range of sights and activities, and also offers something that its more famous neighbour simply can’t: peace, quiet and a relaxing medieval town atmosphere. An administrative centre since the 16th century, today the municipality of Radovljica comprises some four dozen individual settlements and nearly 20,000 people. At the centre of it all, and of most interest to tourists, is the picturesque old town situated on a hilltop overlooking the Dežela plain to the east and the Sava river valley to the west, with perfect views of the Julian Alps dominating the background in seemingly all directions.

The compact city centre is a veritable open air museum of beautifully restored buildings, narrow sloping streets and pleasant sidewalk cafés. The wider area is home to countless hiking and cycling paths, some great accommodation options (including an award-winning campsite, a newly built tourist farm and several old town guest houses), an airport offering scenic flights and the Bled-Lesce train station. We also find the lovely village of Kropa, known as the home of Slovenian blacksmithing for centuries. All of this, plus the genuinely welcoming spirit of its residents, should lead many visitors to consider choosing Radol’ca as their base for the region and making Bled a day trip, rather than vice versa.

WHAT TO SEE Linhart Square (Linhartov Trg) The town’s main square is one of the best-preserved medieval squares in Slovenia, and home to the majority of its sights, the tourist information office, several cafés and even a couple of accommodation options. Named 34 Bled In Your Pocket

for Anton Tomaž Linhart, an 18th-century playwright, historian and Radovljica’s most famous son, who among other achievements penned the first Slovene comedy, the square is lined with historic buildings dating from the 15th to 19th centuries and is a veritable open air museum of different architectural styles. It was renovated and turned into a pedestrian-only zone a couple of years ago.

Linhart Square hosts number of historical and cultural events through the year, but the biggest event is the Chocolate Festival. It takes place every year in April and is the biggest of its kind in Slovenia.

Radovljica Festival Radovljica has been a top destination for early music enthusiasts for more than 30 years, as each August the town hosts two weeks of concerts by top musicians from around world, making it the longest running festival of its kind in the country. Performances are held in the magnificent Baroque Hall at Radovljica Mansion as well as in the Church of St Peter nearby. During the events there is a free festival bus that brings guests to Radovljica from Kranj and Ljubljana.QRadovljica Early Music Society, Linhartov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)4 531 22 91, info@ radolca.si, www.festival-radovljica.si.

Radovljica Mansion Originally built by the wealthy Counts of Ortenburg in the middle of the 15th-century in what was then a small German bled.inyourpocket.com

Radovljica Municipality Museums Under the auspices of the Institute of Radovljica Municipality Museums, there are five separate historical museums. In the centre of Radovljica, is the Radovljica Municipal Museum with a permanent exhibition of the first Slovene playwright, historian and pedagogue Anton Tomaž Linhart (1756-1795), the Museum of Apiculture which presents, among other things, this unique tradition of Slovene folk culture, and the Šivec House Art Gallery with a rich collection of book illustrations and monthly exhibitions. Eleven kilometres south of Radovljica, in Kropa, is the Iron Forging Museum, which recreates the town’s hundred-year-old tradition of iron work.

And last but not least, some seven kilometres to the north of Radovljica, in Begunje na Gorenjskem, one can visit the Museum of Hostages, a memorial to the victims of Nazi terror during the Second World War. See the institute’s English language website for directions, opening times and admission fees.QLinhartov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)4 532 05 20, fax +386 (0)4 532 05 24, mro@siol.net, www.muzeji-radovljica.si.

Beekeeping Centre (Čebelarski RazvojnoIzobraževalni Center Gorenjske) If you’re like most visitors to Slovenia you have a vague understanding that the country is famous for its traditional beekeeping practices and of course its honey, and you may have even seen some painted beehive panels for sale in a gift shop, but you’re not sure where to go to see a comprehensive presentation of this fascinating field - at least this is the feeling we once had.

However, with the opening of the Beekeeping Centre in 2012, all the education, development, demonstration and promotional activities related to beekeeping that you could possibly imagine can be found in the same place. Learn about the long history of beekeeping and see how honey gets from the flower to the jar, and is nowadays used for a diverse range of purposes in addition to sweetening your tea.

For most people the highlight of any visit will be tasting the different varieties of honey, but many other activities, workshops and short trips can be arranged with advanced notice. Definitely one of the sweetest destinations in Slovenia!QRožna Dolina 50a, Lesce, tel. +386 (0)31 628 499, cebelarski.center@gmail.com, www. cricg.com. Open Tues 09:00-16:00, and by prior arrangement for groups.Mon-Fri 07:00-15:00 (till 18:00 in July-Aug), Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed Sun. www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket

Tourist Information Hop-On Hop-Off Radol’ca While the hop-on, hop-off tourist bus concept is a familiar sight in most of the world’s major cities, it’s not often that you see such a thing in rural areas and small towns. However, Radovljica’s forward thinking tourist office has realised that this is the perfect way for visitors to discover some of the region’s hidden corners and off the beaten path venues. Operating from the beginning of July till the end of August, every Tuesday the bus makes four circular journeys along a route covering Bled, Radovljica, Begunje, Podvin and Brezje, before returning to Bled via Radovljica, taking in all the sights along the way, while on Thursdays the route is Bled, Radovljica, Kamna Gorica and Kropa. Special guided tours and other activities can also be arranged in advance. For more info and full programme see the website of Tourism Radovljica.QLinhartov Trg 9, tel. +386 (0)4 531 51 12/+386 (0)40 460 675, info@ radolca.si, www.radolca.si. All day tickets are €5 for adults, free for children under 10.

TIC Radovljica Radovljica’s tourist information centre can be conveniently found near the main entrance to Linhart Square.

Located on the ground floor of the Mrak House, the office provides a whole host of information and services for the town, municipality and entire Gorenjska region, including accommodation, excursions, maps, tickets and free internet. It also has a wide selection of typical Slovene souvenirs, as well as products made under its own brand, such as honey and homemade chocolate pralines with traditional potica cake filling. Free guided tours of the old town depart from here every Tuesday throughout the year at 10:00.QLinhartov Trg 9, tel. +386 (0)4 531 51 12/+386 (0)40 460 675, info@ radolca.si, www.radolca.si. Open every day 09:0018:00 in summer, 10:00-16:00 in winter.

The nature around Radovljica demands to be explored and provides some gorgeous views

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Bohinj

Radovljica kropA

Wine shop "Sodček"

Aleš Čebašek s.p.

Linhartov trg 8, 4240 Radovljica Tel.: +386(0)4 531 50 71, GSM: +386(0)41 678 408 OPEN: Monday - Saturday from 9:00 - 21:00 Sunday & Holidays CLOSED Visit our homely wine cellar with a licensed bar where you can taste a glass of a good wine and have a chat with the locals and also buy a good Slovenian wine as a gift to take it to your friend.

This little village is a hidden gem tucked away in the narrow Lipnica valley below the Jelovica plateau, a 20-minute drive south of Radovljica. Kropa’s rich technical heritage and unique preserved architecture led it to be the first settlement in Slovenia to be named as a protected cultural monument. Known as the cradle of Slovene iron-forging, the area was a busy industrial hub with numerous small scale foundries and ironworks operating between the 14th and 19th centuries. The Iron Forging Museum is full of informative displays covering the whole process of working iron as well as the social, economic and historical development of Kropa. You can also find interesting examples of local contemporary wrought iron and perhaps even a nice souvenir at the UKO Kropa wrought-iron shop iRoN FoRgiNg MuseuM QKropa 10, tel. +386 (0)4 533 7200, kropa@muzejiradovljica.si. admission €3 adults, €2 children. uko WRougHt iRoN sHop QKropa 7a, tel. +386 (0)4 533 7310, www.uko.si. open Mon-Fri 07:00-15:00 (till 18:00 in July-aug), Sat 09:00-12:00. Closed Sun.

rEstAurAnts

The stunning panorama or Lake Bohinj and Triglav National Park

gostišče tulipaN Easy to find just off the motorway on the main north-south road going through Lesce, the newly-renovated Tulipan serves up a menu full of filling Slovene and international cuisine in its wood-covered dining areas and intimate outdoor terraces. The house specialities are game dishes, including several venison choices and some excellent wild boar. Rooms are also available upstairs.Qalpska 8, Lesce, tel. +386 (0)4 537 88 00, info@tulipan-azman.si, www. tulipan-azman.si. open Mon-thur 11:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:00 and Sun 12:00-22:00. (€6-18). TALB

Surrounded by Slovenia’s highest mountains - the impressive Julian Alps - and boasting the country’s largest lake - the spectacular Lake Bohinj - as well as heaps more natural attractions, Bohinj is truly a pristine wonderland.

Located inside the Triglav National Park, the area comprising 24 quaint alpine villages has been protected from large scale development which is great for those of us who prefer a quieter, more relaxed travel experience. A solid line up of festivals liven up things and Bohinj’s stunning landscapes provide ideal settings for year-round outdoor fun - skiing, hiking and canoeing to list just a few. Culture-wise, explore the areas traditional villages and interesting museums and make sure to sample some delicious local cuisine - head to one of the area’s many excellent restaurants typified by their homely hospitality.

winE bAr viNoteka sodček While the largely mountainous Gorenjska region is not one of the Slovenia’s major wine growing areas, that doesn’t mean that the locals are any bit less enthusiastic about drinking the stuff - as evidenced by this combination wine shop and bar at the edge of Radovljica’s main square. If you’d like a liquid souvenir there’s a fine selection of bottles from across Slovenia, and there’s also the option of filling up multi-litre jugs for those staying at a nearby campsite or apartment. However, our favourite option is the wine tasting menu, which includes five different wines along with a plate of Slovenian prosciutto, cheeses and olive oil for only €12. QLinhartov trg 8, radovljica, tel. +386 (0)4 531 59 71, info@vinoteka-sodcek.si, info@vinotekasodcek.si. open 09:00-21:00, Closed Sun. 36 Bled In Your Pocket

bEgunJE Sitting in the foothills of the spectacular Karavanke mountains and Kamnik Alps, Begunje na Gorenjskem, or just Begne to the locals, first appeared in the historical records around the 11th century. The village and surrounding countryside is rich in natural beauty and cultural heritage including a number of significant archaeological sites. At the heart of Begunje is the impressive Katzenstein Mansion and gardens, the onetime home of the Lambeg Counts. Begunje is also famous for being home to Elan, one of the world’s leading ski manufacturers, and Slavko Avsenik, a pioneer of popular Slovene folk music. bled.inyourpocket.com

eSSential Bohinj lake BoHiNj (BoHiNjsko jeZeRo) Lake Bohinj, the jewel at the centre of this scattering of villages in eastern Gorenjska, is absolutely breathtaking. Come early in the morning out of season, just before the sun has risen over the adjacent peaks to experience its awe. Mist shrouds the banks of this still and flat alpine wonder. The pure quiet of this location really brings nature to life once more. Only birdsong emanates from the surrounding Eden, the splash of one of Bohinj’s ‘yellow-bellied’ fish, or the crash of Savica waterfall in the middle distance. Perhaps the only www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket

other detectable sound is the flap of the wings of large birds in flight over this crystal clear lake. By Bohinj you can be at one with yourself, and peace is unavoidable.

BoHiNj Boat touRs What better way to see all that Lake Bohinj has to offer than via a guided panoramic boat tour? The tours on offer won’t fail in providing inspiring scenery as you get to know the lake from its very heart. A choice of two boats is on offer (the Bohinj and the Zlatorog), with the first departures leaving at 10:00. There are two entry and exit points, one at the pier in Ribčev Laz and the second at camp Zlatorog in the village of Ukanc. The final boat from Ribčev Laz leaves at 17:30, with its equivalent in Ukanc departing 30 minutes later at 18:00. Whilst individuals could be able to turn up for a spot due to the frequent departures, groups are recommended to reserve in advance. The Bohinj boat has a capacity of 52 people, and the Zlatorog 75.Qtel. +386 (0)4 57 47 590, +386 41 644 986, info@bohinj.si, info@tourist-boat.eu, www. bohinj.si, www.tourist-boat.eu.

CHuRCH oF st joHN tHe Baptist It may only be a small church, but bigger isn’t always better when it comes to these things. Containing some of the oldest frescoes in the entire country, the church over a stone bridge at Bohinj is a monument of national importance to say the least. Whilst it receives its first official 2015

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Bohinj written mention in the 15th century, it is almost certainly older and it spans a number of different architectural periods from the Romanesque all the way to Baroque.

The church is choc-full of fascination, whether it is the three wooden altars made at various points of the 17th century, the Gothic entryway or the baroque bell tower; there is something of interest at almost every turn. It is the frescoes that steal the show however, featuring among them a multi-layered depiction of St Christopher and a representation of Cain and Abel, complete with rare white devils. It takes a lot to challenge the majesty of the lake for main event status, but the Church of St John the Baptist comes dangerously close.

Mostnica Gorge (Korita Mostnice) The numerous signs, typically carved in log planks, direct you to this hidden gem. A tiny bridge tucked away in the hills behind Stara Fužina and the lake connects two sides of a deeply spectacular gorge. Take in a splendid view of Triglav while the turquoise torrent swirls below.QStara Fužina.

Mount Triglav Mount Triglav is the highest mountain in Slovenia, rising to 2864m in the centre of a national park of the same name.

The mountain is the symbol of Slovenia (it appears on the coat of arms), and the country’s flag was flown here on June 26th, 1991, the day Slovenia declared independence from Yugoslavia. The name, Triglav, means three-headed,

Bohinj as it looks to have three peaks when seen from the Bohinj valley.

The first recorded ascent of Triglav was made on 26 August 1778, by Luka Korošec, Matija Kos, Štefan Rožič and Lovrenc Willomitzer, on the initiative of baron Sigismund Zois. Its height was first measured in 1808

by Valentin Stanič. At the top of the mountain stands a tiny metal structure, the Aljaž Tower. A storm shelter for climbers, it is named after Jakob Aljaž, a priest who bought the land at the Triglav peak for a single AustroHungarian florin from the then municipality of Dovje in 1895.

Triglav today attracts skiers in winter (to nearby Vogel) and climbers in summer. The climb to the summit is not all that hard, but it is long. It’s a two-day ascent to the top, and requires an overnight stay in a mountain cabin.

Savica Waterfall (Slap Savica) Your time spent in Bohinj would not be complete without a day trip to one of Slovenia’s greatest waterfalls.

To reach the waterfall it’s a roughly one hour walk up a thickly forested slope. The waterfall itself drops a towering 78m into a large water sink, which is located at an altitude of 500m. An inspirational sight, it has often been written about by well-known Slovenian poets and writers. A small entrance fee is required at the entrance to the site.QBohinjsko jezero, tel. +386 (0)4 574 60 10, info@bohinj-info.com, www.bohinj-info.com.

Admission €1.0 - 2.50.

Around Bohinj Pokljuka (goreljek) Untouched, unspoiled and undiscovered: Pokljuka, the glacier formed, limestone plateau in the Julian Alps is all of these things. Being shrouded in spruce forest and sitting at 1000-1400m, it is mysterious when the weather is cloudy, but on sunny days it’s crystal clear and pristine in every way.

Launched as an alpine resort destination several years ago, with a few brand new or renovated hotels opened since, Pokljuka’s main attractions are the huge cross-country skiing/running track and world cup hosting biathlon center.

There are moderate difficulty hiking trails nearby, offering fantastic views, and rare alpine plant species to be found in and around the numerous bogs. Great for those wanting a peaceful and/or active mountain escape, at high altitude.

Vogel View Point The Vogel Ski Centre is one of our favourite places to hit the slopes mainly because of the incredible panoramic views of the Julian Alps and Lake Bohinj, but you don’t need to wait for the snow to check out the views. In fact, without needing to worry about snowboarders cutting you off and with the mountainsides a bloom with wild flowers the views are possibly even more spectacular. There are also countless opportunities for hiking and mountain biking including at a newly opened bike park up on Vogel, making it a great year round destination.QUkanc 6, tel. +386 (0)4 5729 712, info@vogel.si, www.vogel.si. Cable car operates daily 08:00-18:00 (every half an hour), in summer 07:00-19:00. Return tickets €13.50 adults, €9 children (family discounts available).

SPORT & ACTIVITIES Hiking With a stunning backdrop of high mountains, hiking in Bohinj may seem daunting but never fear there are routes to suit all abilities along with guided tours and the Vogel cable car offers easy access to walks in the higher altitudes and summit views. Great easy walks include the Savica Waterfall, Mostnica Gorge and around Lake Bohinj itself, whilst

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They say Bohinj is a little wilder than Bled… Photo by capsicina / Flickr

the Vodnikova lookout provides one of the best views of the valley and lake. Further afield, the highland forests of Pukljuka are also stunning and there are more challenging hikes higher up the Alps where there is also a network of mountain cabins providing accommodation. For more information and maps, visit the Tourist Information Centre in Bohinjska Bistrica, or call +386 45 74 75 90.

FISHING Whether you are a serious angler or just looking to sit in a little boat all day drinking beer (yes, we learnt to fish in Australia), Lake Bohinj and the surrounding rivers are the

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Bohinj EvEnts

You can’t quite beat lake-reflected imagery, and Bohinj is full of it

perfect place to cast your line with the season running from 1 May to 14 November. Standing beside the lake you can see large schools of trout, the waters are also home to Charr, Chub and Burbot, but catching them is another story.

To start with you’ll need a licence, gear and skill - or is fishing all about luck? Bohinj being somewhat of a Mecca for Slovene anglers, the lake also hosts an annual international fishing festival at the end of September and beginning of October For details about fishing in Bohinj including regulations, licence dealers, gear rental shops and much more check www.bohinj.si or contact one of the local tourist offices. paC spoRts The Pac Sports outdoor centre and agency is situated at Hostel Pod Voglom, and specialises in adventure and sport holiday packages including such activities as paragliding, rafting, canyoning, trekking and free climbing to name but a few. Their adrenaline park is an ideal choice for thrill-seeking

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holiday-makers who would like to combine activities and nature in their holiday package. You can pop in to their information points in town, situated in front of the Pension Rožič and at Camp Zlatorog.Qribčev Laz 50, tel. +386 (0)4 572 34 61, info@pac-sports.com, www.pac-sports.com.

RaNč MRCiNa Organising riding tours since 1999, the good folk at Mrcina know what they are doing. A pleasingly wide range of trails is available, whether you are a complete beginner (like ourselves) or an experienced rider, and all run through the natural splendour of Triglav National Park. Icelandic horses are the dominant breed here, although we also find Lipizzaner, Arabic and other mixed breeds.QStudor, tel. +386 (0)41 79 02 97, info@ranc-mrcina.com, www. ranc-mrcina.com.

kiDs FaiRy laNd oF tHe goldHoRN Perfect for families with small kids, this trail runs through the breadth of Bohinj’s majestic nature. Meadows, streams and lush greenery are traversed whilst learning about seven fairy tales, all originating from Bohinj that will encourage the use of all your senses. We might be getting a little old in the knees, but a wide range of movement is encouraged throughout, so expect some jumping, walking, running and rolling. Magical.

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23.05 Saturday - 07.06 Sunday iNteRNatioNal alpiNe FloWeR Festival The breathtaking beauty of Bohinj’s alpine scenery is well-known, with images of rocky peaks, rural farms, abundant wildlife and of course the majestic lake itself gracing the covers of various books, brochures and family photo albums. However, the region also boasts an incredible botanical richness, which has fascinated visitors long before the railway brought a spike in tourist arrivals more than a century ago. In fact, as far back as the mid-18th century foreigners were penning odes to Bohinj’s diverse floral beauty, such as the scientist, traveller and explorer Balthazar Hacquet, who was so in love with the region that he not only wrote a three-volume tome about the flora here, but also yearned to return and spend the rest of his life as a shepherd.

In celebration of Bohinj’s unique floral environment, there is a two-week long International Flower Festival at the end of May and beginning of June each year, with a veritable bouquet of events and activities taking place across the entire region, including exhibitions, guided excursions, workshops, lectures, concerts, open-air markets and much more.QVarious Venues, www.bohinj.si.

01.07 WedneSday - 05.07. Sunday eCa CaNoe MaRatHoN euRopeaN CHaMpioNsHip & MasteRs euRopeaN Cup Looks like there is another reason (not that one is needed) to visit the stunning Lake Bohinj, one of our favourite spots in the country, as this July (1st-5th) it will play host to the European Canoe Marathon Championships. The placid waters of the glacial lake reflecting the mountains which surround it are the perfect setting for a paddle (we’ve enjoyed feebly rowing about it many times) though we’ll be happy to sit back and enjoy the festivities as the pros, juniors and seniors race on courses up to 30km long with competitors also having to lug with their canoes overland. Qwww.bohinj.si/euro2015.

01.07 WedneSday - 19.08. WedneSday Festival kaNal Started back in 2005 to breathe life into Bohinj’s cultural scene, 11 years on Festival Kanal is still a shining light on the local calendar (1. 07 - 19. 08), bringing live music to where there is normally little. Keep an eye out for the program, though if last year’s month and a bit long festival, featuring more than 17 gigs from local and international acts, is anything to go by then it’ll pay to spend even more time in Bohinj this summer. The Coffee House Paviljon in Ribčev Laz hosts the festival with the stage actually located next to the café in an old drainage canal (problematic when it rains). www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket

11.09 Friday - 11.10 Sunday BoHiNj HikiNg Festival Bohinj has been a popular destination for hikers for centuries, so it’s no surprise that it is home to one of Slovenia’s largest hiking events - the so-called Days of Hiking. Taking place in September and October each year, the event aims to promote the area’s rich hiking tradition and potential as a world class hiking destination, and is comprised of three parts: Recreation, which includes guided tours along various paths, trails and themed trips; Competition, with several sports events held in cooperation with Slovene hiking societies; and Social activities, including concerts, exhibitions, lectures and hiking-related workshops.Qtel. +386 (0)4 574 75 90/+386 (0)31 557 124, info@bohinj.si, www. bohinj.si.

26.09 Saturday - 03.10 Saturday BoHiNj FisHiNg Festival More of a venue for fly fishing enthusiasts to socialise, share experiences and of course hone their crafts than a rigidly organised event per se, nevertheless Bohinj’s annual fishing festival has become an increasingly popular event on the calendar, taking place each year at the end of September and beginning of October.

The programme generally consists of days spent fishing on one of several rivers in or near Bohinj (namely the Sava Bohinjska, Soča, Idrijca and Savinja), with nights devoted to various fishing-related films, videos, lectures and presentations, with a large festive cultural event (ie party) on the final night.Qhotel tripič, triglavska 13, www.bohinj.si.

19.09 Saturday kRavji Bal The summer season in Slovenia’s alpine region officially ends in mid-September with one of the country’s most unique, if lesser known, festivals: the annual Kravji Bal, or traditional Cow Ball. Held in Bohinj since 1954, the event celebrates the return of local shepherds and their cattle to the valley after a summer of grazing high up in the pastures of the Julian Alps.

The festivities kick off on the third Saturday with the Cheese and Wine Fest in Danica Hall (from moon to midnight). Of course plenty of cheese and butter will be on hand for tasting, and the event is followed by a Slovene folk dance party. On Sunday the main event takes place in the village of Ukanc when the shepherds and cows make their triumphant return, much to the delight of the thousands of onlookers. The all-day party begins in the morning with folk music, brass bands, an accordion orchestra, folklore performances and all manner of other costumed revellers competing for the eyes and ears of the crowd. Qkravjibal.bohinj-info. com 2015

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Bohinj

Bohinj

rEstAurAnts Most visitors to Bohinj end up eating the majority of their meals at their hotel or guesthouse (which is usually not a bad option), but for those who wish to venture out in search of sustenance there are a handful of eateries in the villages around the lake, with the most options in Ribčev Laz at the lake’s southwest corner. gostilNa MiHovC This authentic family-run restaurant has been serving up delicious local fare for more than a century. Located in the centre of Stara Fužina, the restaurant is housed in a traditional old Gorenjska-style house, the interior has the same rustic feeling - during winter grab a table besides the central hearth whilst in summer the courtyard is the place to be. The menu features a wide range of tasty local specialties and the lunch menus are great value.QStara Fužina 118, tel. +386 (0)51 81 18 29, info@gostilna-mihovc.si, www.gostilna-mihovc. si. open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. TILB gostilNa daNiCa Located at the entrance to the camping grounds one might dismiss this place as a tourist trap but looks can be deceiving and behind Danica’s modest appearance is a fine restaurant. As well as an outstanding à la carte menu, the restaurant offers excellent daily specials and

an wide range of Slovene wines. To cap it off the service is friendly and the prices are very reasonable - it makes for a very nice camp dinner indeed.Qtriglavska 60, Bohinjska Bistrica, tel. +386 (0)4 575 16 19, gostilna. danica@bohinj-info.com, www.camp-danica.si. open 11:00 - 22:00. gostilNa tRipič A top dining destination for both locals and visitors, the Tripič inn is conveniently located in the centre of Bohinjska Bistrica, and during the warmer months the large summer terrace is sure to be buzzing with happy diners.

The menu features a wide selection of hearty traditional Bohinj cuisine, such as veal stew with buckwheat and grilled homemade sausages with black pudding and turnips, while house specialties include the Tripič platter, turkey steak in cream sauce with fruit and of course fresh Bohinj trout - all of which are served in sizeable portions. Stop by from 12:00 to 16:00 for the good value daily set menus.Qi-7, triglavska 13, tel. +386 (0)4 828 01 20, fax +386 (0)4 828 01 24, info@hotel-tripic.si, www.hotel-bohinj.si. open 08:00 - 23:00. PT� JAULEGBKX

Where to Stay CaMp daNiCa The area around the mighty Triglav range is a fantastic spot for camp lovers, being directly at the foot of na-

from the town in 2010, but even more meaningful are the countless glowing comments left in their guestbook by visitors from around the world - many of whom become familiar faces on return trips. Additional offers include a 20% discount at Bohinj Aquapark just across the street and half-board at the excellent restaurant for only €5.Qi-7, triglavska 13, Bohinjska Bistrica, tel. +386 (0)4 828 01 20, info@hotel-tripic.si, www. hotel-bohinj.si. THGKW

ture and adventure. The camp is found just outside Bohinjska Bistrica and can accommodate over 800 guests in tents, campers and caravans where you can find a range of fascinating on-site activities such as tennis, badminton, volleyball, and table-tennis, and there’s also a large sports hall and aqua park the immediate vicinity. The camp’s excellent set of amenities include a WiFi internet access point, bars and restaurants, a supermarket, bakery, health centre, pharmacy, laundry service, bank and post office. Triglavska 60, +386 (0)4 572 17 02, info@camp-danica.si, www.camp-danica.siTA6ULEKXCW

Hostel pod vogloM If you’ve come for an action-packed holiday, then this is the place for you. Summers and winters are swarming with adventure travelers, sports people and backpackers that make use of its prime location along the southern shore of the lake and numerous activities organised by the hostel’s very own Pac sports centre. Rooms are of the dormitory style, most with en suite shower and toilettes, but some having to share a clean common bathroom.QX-7, ribčev Laz 60, tel. +386 (0)4 572 34 61, podvoglom@siol.net, www.hostel-podvoglom.com.

THAULGB

Much more info online at bohinj.inyourpocket.com

Hotel tRipič Providing warm and welcoming accommodation in Bohinj for nearly four decades, the family-run Tripič hotel can be found right in centre of Bohinjska Bistrica and offers a total of 17 spacious rooms, including many suites and family rooms. The friendly service and topnotch facilities were recognised with the Golden Award

Bohinj cheeSe

Hotel Tripič, run by family Tripič since 1986 Double rooms and duplex family rooms Restaurant Tripič with pizzeria Free internet, free big private parking Fly-fishing info, hiking info, cycling info Close to bus and train station Open all year www.hotel-bohinj.si Hotel Tripič, Triglavska cesta 13 4264 Bohinjska Bistrica 42 Bled In Your Pocket

phone: +386 (0)4 828 0120 e-mail: info@hotel-tripic.si bled.inyourpocket.com

The Bohinj region has a long and rich history in the dairy industry stretching back to the 13th century. The ring of cow bells across the pastures can still be heard today as local alpine herdsmen continue this tradition, producing award-winning dairy products with Bohinj cheeses being some of the best in the country.

Ask at local restaurants about the delicious fresh cottage cheese ‘skuta’ as well as the EU recognised local specialty Mohant - an interesting semi-soft cow’s milk cheese with a strong sharp flavour. Local dairies also produce an excellent Emmentaler style cheese known in Slovenia simply as Bohinjski Sir. Bohinj cheeses can be found in shops throughout Slovenia but if you’re in the area it’s worth dropping by the dairy for the freshest products. Bohinj’s dairy culture is celebrated annually at the traditional Kravji Bal festival, where herdsmen parade their dairy queens through town - the festival is a cultural experience not to be missed. www.facebook.com/bled.inyourpocket

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Žirovnica

Žirovnica Beekeeping Path Slovenia’s love affair with the humble bee is well documented, but it is in Žirovnica that we find the home of the father of European apiculture, Anton Janša. His legacy lives on today with the Beekeeping Path, awarded the title of ‘Best Path in Slovenia’ in 2012. The trail will take you across the many fine bee-related sites in the area. Included in the trail is Janša’s birth house in Breznica, now reconstructed as a beehouse, as well as the breeding station of the Noč family in Završnica. Here you can see a practical presentation of the art of bee breeding, as well as being given the chance to purchase some fine honey products in the shop. The world has never been more appreciative of the hardworking bee, so it’s time to get educated!

where to eat

Žirovnica’s history belies its size, as it was home to Prešeren, Čop and Janša. Not bad work at all!

Located just a 10-minute drive north of Bled, Žirovnica sits in the picturesque foothills of Mt Stol, the highest peak in the Karavanke Mountains. Known as the ‘cradle of Slovene culture’, it seems like every village in this clustered settlement was home to an important historical figure of Slovene literature and culture, most notably Dr France Prešeren from Vrba. The region is also well-known for its long history of beekeeping which continues today, and the locally produced honey and particularly honey liquor are definitely worth sampling. The valleys and mountains surrounding Žirovnica are popular with hikers and mountain bikers.

what to see Dr France Prešeren’s Birth House Most visitors to Slovenia first encounter Dr France Prešeren as an imposing bronze statue in the heart of Ljubljana, although more than just being at the heart of the capital, Prešeren is at the heart of Slovene identity and culture. Described as the Shakespeare of Slovene literature, Prešeren’s poetry articulates the spirit of Slovenia and the Slovenes, and a stanza from his poem ‘A Toast’ is used as the lyrics for the national anthem. Born in Vrba in 1800, his birth house has become a popular tourist destination.

The house was built in the 16th century though its current form dates from 1856 when it was rebuilt following a fire.

Opened as a museum in 1939, Slovenia’s first protected cultural site continues to attract thousands of visitors annually. Whilst it’s mainly Slovenes who make the pilgrimage here the museum offers all visitors a window into the life and times of this literary master, with its collection of 19th-century artefacts including Prešeren’s crib and an informative exhibition of the great man's life. Žirovnica Cultural Heritage Path The cultural heritage path begins at the birth house of 44 Bled In Your Pocket

Matija Čop and snakes its way for 6km through many of the area's quaint villages taking in historically significant houses and churches. The path is a pleasant walk or scoot around it on an electric bicycle available for hire (reservation required) at the Žirovnica tourism office (located in Matija Čop’s birth house). Before setting off check at the tourism office about opening hours of museums on the route as many are open only by appointment.

The first sight is the birth house of Matija Čop, a linguist (speaking a staggering 19 languages!), writer and Slovenia’s first librarian, as well as being a friend and mentor of France Prešeren. From Žirovnica the path heads to Selo where you can catch magnificent views of the cliffs above the town, and the 15th-century fresco in the Church of St Cantianus is well worth viewing too.

The next village is Breznica, birth place of Anton Janša an 18th-century artist and pioneer of modern beekeeping, indeed the first teacher of beekeeping by royal decree. Whilst a reconstructed apiary sits in the place of the original, a number of the original beehive panels painted with traditional motifs are on display, and also make great souvenirs.

The next stop on the path is Doslovče, the smallest village in the region, though keeping with the way of Žirovnica it too is the birth place of a significant Slovene author and playwright, Fran Saleški Finžgar. Those doing the path on foot will enjoy the walking trail from Doslovče and Rodine, which offers beautiful views of the country side and the Julian Alps. Rodine dates back to the 10th century and it too has a museum dedicated to its famous local literary figure, author and playwright Janez Jalen.

The final village on the path is Vrba, and while Prešeren’s birth house is the star attraction, the more than 200 hundred year old linden tree (Slovenia’s national tree) and village meeting place are also worth checking out. bled.inyourpocket.com

Gostišče Osvald In little Žirovnica we find Gostišče Osvald, a restaurant full of tradition that has seen many years and sated many appetites. Many of the house specialities bear the restaurant’s name, dishes created onsite that have evolved over the many years of its existence. Osvald is also the perfect place for celebrations, be they weddings, anniversaries or anything else in between, and when summer arrives the lovely summer terrace adds to the atmosphere. QSelo pri Žirovnici 17, tel. +386 (0)51 74 95 37, korbar.ane8@ gmail.com.

HORSE RIDING Zima Horse Riding Just next to the accommodation of the same name, Zima in the town of Žirovnica is the place to head for anyone interested in horses and riding. Its main function is of a horse riding school for beginners, be they adults or children, but recreational outdoor riding is also available among other things. Those looking to complete their Horseman I and II exams should look no further too. It is also possible to take a ride with the traditional cart, the zapravljivček. It truly is a horse extravaganza!QŽirovnica 59a, tel. +386 (0)31 63 24 86, dusanzima1@gmail.com, www.zima-sobe.si.

where to stay Zima Rooms When in Žirovnica, there aren’t many better accommodation options than Zima Rooms. Close to the bus and train stations with a pizzeria, bike rental and store all within spitting distance, you can’t ask for a superior location. The house itself has 30 fine years of tradition behind it and there is a whole lot to love. You can also stroll up to their log cabin for a picnic, where spectacular views of Bled can be found. QŽirovnica 59a, tel. +386 (0)31 63 24 86, melita.jakelj@gmail.com, www.zima-sobe.si.

Anton Janša Born in Breznica in1734, Anton Janša developed an interest in painting from a young age. He shared this interest, or possibly established it, along with his two brothers. Despite their illiteracy, they all packed up and went off to Vienna to enrol at the engraving school there. Now, only one of the brothers would graduate and further their work in the art, but Anton would go on to make his name in a different field, that of beekeeping. He was no stranger to bees. His family had a history of beekeeping, and his father had over 500 hives at home. Discussions about beekeeping would dominate talk at the tavern with all the local farmers.

By 1769 he had entered full time work as a beekeeper, and in what seems like something of a meteoric rise he became the first royally appointed teacher of apiculture for all of the Austrian-owned lands.

Janša’s duties were fairly simple, but important nonetheless. He kept the bees in the imperial gardens, but his main task was to travel around the land presenting his bee observations, and he had plenty of them.

He came to change the size and shape of the hive, meaning they could be stacked upon each other like blocks. He also used his experience as a painter and decorated the fronts of hives, which were previously bland and uninspiring. He would write two books in German during his work at the court, entitled ‘Discussion in Beekeeping’ and ‘A Full Guide to Beekeeping’.

His bee lectures were famous throughout the lands, and he popularised the method of smoking bees out of their hives for the honey. He would die in Vienna in 1773, of typhus.

His work was influential enough to be considered the only resource for those in the Austrian empire who studied apiculture following his death, and he is considered one of the fathers of European apiculture. The 19th century saw further developments in apiculture, and although the 20th century would see us push on our attempts to eradicate the bee, the art is still practiced today. Slovenia is the only country that officially protects its national bee no less, and Janša would probably be very happy with this fact.

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2015

45

Kranj

Kranj growth during the medieval and renaissance periods, and concludes with modern Slovenia's accession to the European Union. The space of the castle's interior is used to maximum effect, and some interesting and novel curatorial approaches make a visit here both fascinating and informative. As such, the museum is great place to begin a first trip to the region.

Pungert Tower Occupying the southernmost edge of Kranj's old town, on the promontory overlooking the confluence of the Kokra and Sava rivers, is the city's only entirely preserved 16thcentury defensive tower: Pungert. The distinctly German sounding name is derived from the German word for orchard, baumgarten, which at one time grew here. Among other uses, over the centuries the tower has served as residences and a prison, counting among its inmates the well-known local artist Leopold Layer, who was convicted of forging currency. To round out the already wonderful atmosphere, there's also an old music school right next door whose pupils provide a pleasant (if sometimes off-key) soundtrack.

Slovenia’s third largest city, Kranj is a stone’s throw from Ljubljana. Photo by Luka Dakskobler

Perched on a rocky promontory at the confluence of the Sava and Kokra rivers, the old town of Kranj has one of the most spectacular medieval skylines that you'll likely ever see, with its three distinct church towers and an unreal backdrop of the Slovenian Alps rising up only a few kilometres to the north. Not as well-known as Bled or as heavily trodden by tourists on Kranjska Gora, in most senses of the word Kranj is still the true capital of the Gorenjska region, both historically speaking and nowadays, as it has long-served as one of the main industrial centres of Slovenia and is also the country's third largest city.

It's Kranj's historic centre that is the main draw for most tourists and daytrippers. Protected as a national cultural monument since 1983, the lively old town boasts an variety of diverse sights, from religious monuments and ethnological museums to modern arts spaces and unique remnants from World War II. For most Slovenes the city is inextricably linked with the nation's greatest poet, France Prešeren, who lived and worked here in the mid-19th century.

Essential Kranj The Tunnels Under Kranj One of the most unique attractions in the Gorenjska region is the WWII-era tunnel complex that runs for 1.3km under the heart of Kranj's old town and was built to serve as a bomb shelter. Construction commenced in the late1930s in anticipation of he conflict, but most of what exists today was carried out by occupying forces in 1944, as they feared Kranj would be targeted by Allied bombing due to its strategic location and strong industrial output. The complex crosss directly under the old town with a western 46 Bled In Your Pocket

entrance at Jelenov Klanec, an east entrance in Kokra Canyon and a southern entrance below Pungert - there is also a 'secret' entrance above ground behind Prešeren Theatre.

Following the war the tunnels were largely forgotten about and fell into a state of disuse, although during the 1980s one enterprising local restauranteur used a large section of them to grow his own supply of mushrooms.

Due to the waste produced by this subterranean agriculture as well as the more than half a century of general neglect, the tunnels were in rather poor condition at the end of the 20th century. Recognising that they are an important piece of the country's historical and technological heritage, in 2003 the Caving Society of Kranj decided to take the initiative of cleaning them up, and were later joined by the city and other organisations, with the extensive restoration works finally completed and the tunnels opened to the public in 2008.

Khislstein Castle & The Museum of Gorenjska A key element of Kranj's magnificent medieval skyline and quite literally an inseparable part of the town (as the complex's lower section forms part of the defensive walls), Khislstein Castle derives both its name and Renaissance appearance from its 16th-century owner Janez Khisl. The castle and its grounds were extensively renovated in 2012, when the open-air summer theatre was built and the Museum of Gorenjska's central exhibition was opened on the premises.

Titled Beautiful Gorenjska, the comprehensive and extremely well-presented exhibition leads visitors on a journey from the geological formation of the region millions of years ago, through prehistoric settlements, the arrival of Slavic tribes, development of Slovenes as a distinct people, bled.inyourpocket.com

Kokra River Canyon While most visitors admire Kranj for the breathtaking panoramic views of the mountains to the north, the first inhabitants chose to settle here not for its natural beauty, but for the more practical reason that the 30m deep gorge immediately to the east provided a significant defensive advantage.

Carved into the colourful conglomerate sedimentary rock at the end of the most recent ice age, the lush green canyon is

home an extremely diverse collection of plants and animals, and has been a protected natural site since 1983.

For those who would like to explore the area themselves, the most easily accessible public entrance is next to the bridge on Poštna Ulica, and the tourist office stocks a very information brochure that includes a maps as well as details about the areas flora and fauna, geological history and the milling industry that flourished here until the early 20th century. During the summer months several rocky beaches found along the riverbanks are popular destination for swimmers or those just looking to escape the heat.

Tourist Information TIC Kranj Set in a beautiful 16th-century townhouse right in the centre of the old town, Kranj’s tourist information centre is the most logical first stop for most visitors to the city. In addition to countless brochures in a variety of languages covering everything in Kranj and elsewhere in the Gorenjska region (several of which can even be downloaded directly from their website), there’s free internet, a fine selection of gifts and souvenirs, a small gallery with contemporary art exhibitions and bicycle hires for €2 per hour or only €5 for the whole day. Arrangements can also be made for a tour with an experienced local guide. QGlavni trg 2, tel +386 (0)4 238 04 50, +386 (0)4 238 04 51, tic@tourism-kranj.si, www. tourism-kranj.si. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00

Explore the mysterious tunnels underneath Kranj. Photo by Bojan Okorn.

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Postojna postojna

Postojna Cave The largest cave in the karst region and most visited show cave in all of Europe, words on a page can hardly do justice to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20 kilometres of galleries have been found, of which barely a fraction are open to the public. All the same, a visit here still takes up much of a morning or an afternoon, as you make your way through the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by a dinky little narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. There are no stairs or difficult climbs along the path to or inside the cave, so visitors with limited mobility should not have any difficulties.

Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the cave was discovered in the 13th century, though never properly explored until the early 1800s. They opened as a tourist attraction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of Austria, among the first to visit. Bizarrely, so popular did the caves become that electric lights were fitted in 1884: some years before such technology was first deployed in Ljubljana itself.

Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalactites and stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, which can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down here are said to be sensational. Note that the temperature of the cave is a chilly 10 degrees Centigrade, so bring a jumper. The caves are also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphibian endemic to the subterranean waters of caves of this part of Europe. The olms can sometimes – though not always – be seen in some of the pools of water as you make your way around the cave.

Though blind they are sensitive to flash photography and if you do spot one you should refrain from taking any photos. You will be well and truly told off if you do.

Postojna is about 30 minutes by car from Ljubljana, or you can take any train/bus heading for the coast. For more information see the official website.

Predjama Castle Located some 10km north of Postojna is one of Europe’s finest castles. Predjama Castle (or Predjamski grad, Höhlenburg Lueg and Castel Lueghi in Slovene, German and Italian respectively), was built in a Gothic style by the Patriarch of Aquileia sometime during the 13th century and first mentioned in the historical record in the year 1274. Perched under a natural archway 123m up 48 Bled In Your Pocket

a sheer cliff face and surrounded by a thick stone wall, throughout the centuries the castle has gained a welldeserved reputation for being virtually impregnable.

This fact was most popularly demonstrated during the 15th century by the more than year-long siege of Erazem Lueger, who was a knight and the son of the Imperial governor of Trieste, but had also a gained a reputation as a rather proficient robber baron throughout Habsburg empire. It is said that in 1483, Erazem fled to the castle from Vienna after killing a Marshall of the Imperial Army who had insulted one of his friends, which brought about the wrath of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, who laid siege to the castle. However, thanks to a secret cave leading from the bowels of Predjama to Postojna Cave and then on to the nearby village of Vipava, Erazem was able to secure an steady supply of fresh food and water. Unfortunately for Erazem, his luck ran out when he was betrayed by one of his servants and unceremoniously killed by the shot of a single canon ball while on the toilette. In the years that followed, the castle was destroyed and rebuilt several times, before acquiring a Renaissance style in 1570, which has remained virtually unchanged to this day.

Nowadays the castle is open to the public and serves as a museum. It has been completely restored to its original grandeur, and among other sites visitors can see the residential quarters, the chapel and of course the dungeon. It is also possible to see the legendary cave below the castle, although some climbing and a minimal level of fitness, especially for scaling the narrow 37m Erazem’s Passage, is strongly encouraged if not required. During July each summer the castle and its grounds also host one of the region’s largest medieval festivals, known as the Erasmus Knight’s Tournament after the castle’s most famous occupant. For more information see the official website.

QJamska 30, Postojna, tel/fax. +386 (0)700 01 00, info@postojnska- jama.eu, www.postojnska-jama. eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov to March tours at 10:00, 12:00, 15:00, in Apr and Oct 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00, in May and June hourly 09:00 - 17:00, in July and Aug hourly 09:00 - 18:00. Castle - Open every day, all year. From Nov to March open from 10:00 to 16:00, in April and Oct from 10:00 to 17:00, in May, June and Sept from 9:00 to 18:00, during July and Aug from 9:00 to 19:00. bled.inyourpocket.com

Park NSka J O T S PO a Ja M e D v e NT u r C e NT i f i N g a M

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Descend into the kingdom of One of the Most Beautiful Natural Wonders Postojna Cave is without a doubt one of the most beautiful creations of nature. Take a ride around the world full of wonders, stretching along thousands of meters of underground passages, which reveal truly unique splendours, mood and authenticity of nature created to be admired. Combined with Predjama Castle, the cave offers two world-famous attractions, which together with the surrounding area create an unforgettable full-day experience for visitors of any age. www.postojnska-jama.eu

TR TA

Bavški Grintavec 2344 m

EN Vršac 2234 m

Kal 2001 m

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Mangart Jalovec 2678 m 2643 m

Plaski Vogel 2348 m

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Mojstrovka 2366 m

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Malo Špičje 2312 m

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Prisojnik 2547 m

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Stador 1688 m

Razor 2601 m

Kanjavec 2568 m

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Škrlatica 2738 m

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Triglav 2864 m

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Rjavina 2532 m

slap/ waterfall Kropa

Viševnik 2050 m

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Kamen 1030 m

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Debela peč 2015 m

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R Golica 1835 m

A

P

Struška

V

A

L

M E Ž A K L A PL. KLEK

K

N

Dunaj

K Belščica

E

K

D O L I N A

U

Mrzli Studenec

BITNJE cerkev Marijinega vnebovzetja

sv. Nikolaj

A

Stol 2236 m

LEPENCE

Peči 828 m

Vodnikov razglednik

RAVNE

Ajdovski gradec

PL. POKROVEC

barje/ peat bog Goreljek

J

Z G O R N J E S A V S K A

O

PL. JAVORNIK

Goreljek 1250 m

JEREKA

sv. Marjeta

PODJELJE

lca Be

BOHINJSKA BISTRICA

Šavnica 863 m

BOH. ČEŠNJICA

PL. KONJSKA DOLINA

PL. JAVORNICA

Pod Ščavnikom

BROD

sv. Magdalena

Senožeta

Blato

Zakraj

slapovi Ribnice/ Ribnica waterfalls

Ribn ica

k

Suha

SREDNJA VAS

nje

Srenjsko polje

me

SAVICA

Sava Bohi njka

Pozabljeno

ica Bistr

Najdenje sv. Križa

KOPRIVNIK

LOG

J E

sv. Ahac

N

Hemin plavž

B L JB L E D ANA

GORJUŠE

LJU

slap/ waterfall Grmečica

V

I

NOMENJ

L

O

A

RI

NEMŠKI ROVT

SO

C

Orožnova koča

Lisec 1653 m rob

Črna gora Črna prst 1606 m 1844 m

D o b r a v a

ji Koz

izvir Bistrice/ Bistrica stream spring

Konjski vrh 1879 m

ŽLAN

KAMNJE

Kre

Ribnica Rudnica 946 m

PL. NA ŠEHU

PL. ZAJAMNIKI

Športni center Triglav Pokljuka

Rudno Polje

A AT V RO T K R M A Mojstrana Lipanski vrh K 1983 m Mrežce

Viševnik

P

A

mi

STUDOR

PL. PRAPROTNICA

Laz

sv. Pavel

Za

Peč 719 m

Poljanski vrh 1897 m

LAŠKI ROVT POLJE

RIBČEV LAZ

Gosti les

Veliki Raskovec 1967 m

Š Ž K A EL PLEZ A NN I I NK I A

jahanje / horse riding

Kobla 1499 m

trgovina / shop

vodni park / aquapark

tenis / tennis

Na Kale

železniška postaja / train station

restavracija / restaurant

adrenalinski park / high ropes course

kolesarski servis / bike service

kolesarska pot Bohinj / Bohinj cycling route

avtovlak / car train

bankomat / 

odbojka na mivki / beach volleball

zdravstveni dom / health clinic

pošta / post office

lekarna / pharmacy

banka, menjalnica / bank, exchange office bencinski servis / gas station

avtomehanična delavnica / car service

muzej / museum

sakralni objekt / church

parkirni prostor / parking

Dom Zorka Jelinčiča

a ečic Jer

LI

sv. Janez Krstnik

STARA FUŽINA

DO

Studor 1002 m

PL. KONJŠČICA

N

J E

sv. Duh

Sleme 2004 m

vrh Tosc V. Draški 2243 m 2275 m

I

NAD JEZEROM

PL. VOGAR

slap/ waterfall Mostnica

PL. KRSTENICA

NAKLO

BOHINJSKO JEZERO 523 m

Kratki plaz 1730 m

SKI CENTER VOGEL Konta

ČA

V

slap/ waterfall Govic

Vodnikov dom

Kukova špica 2417 m Sleme 2076 m

Kredarica

L

O

PL. VELO POLJE

R

PL. BLATO

A

Dom Planika

OGRADI

N

EN

PL. HEBED

PL. VODIČNI VRH

Vodični vrh 1621 m

PL. PRI JEZERU PL. VIŠEVNIK

PL. V LAZU

Dolič

Pogačnikov dom

Debeli vrh 2390 m

S

Stadorski Orliči 1782 m 1624 m

AB

RE

O

I Črno jezero

Pršivec 1761 m

PL. DEDNO POLJE PL. OVČARIJA

Zasavska koča

V. Tičarica 2091 m Koča pri Triglavskih jezerih

A

Rušnata glava 1899 m

LIN

S

AD O

GR

UKANC

EV

BA

Rodica 1966 m

PL. SUHA

SK

V

Sa vic a Blato

ŽA G

AR J

PL. ZADNJI VOGEL

Šija 1880 m

Čez Suho 1773 m

smučišče / ski slopes

U

A slap/ waterfall Savica

ŠK

Dom Savica

AN HA

Vogel 1922 m

V O

R

LEPA KOMNA

T

UK AS U

Bohinjski Migovec

Rušnati vrh 1915 m

PL. RAZOR Koča na pl. Razor

naravna znamenitost / natural attraction

sedežnica / ski lift

turist. informacije / tourist information

LEGENDA / KEY

nastanitve / accomodation

Info center Triglavskega narodnega parka/ Triglav National Park Information Centre

turistična ladja / tourist boat

kabinska žičnica / cable car

razgledna točka / viewpoint

kamp / campsite

avtobusna postaja / bus station

planinska koča / mountain hut pohodniška pot / hiking trail

Grm ečic a

Koča pod Bogatinom PL. NA KRAJU

Škrbina 1910 m

Dom na Komni

Podrta gora 2061 m

PL. GOVNJAČ

SPODNJA KOMNA

Tolminski Kuk 2085 m

Tolminski Migovec 1881 m

PL. NA KALU

............................

RUNNER-UP 2010

Sav aB ohin jka

Informacije / information:

Turizem (TIC) Bohinj, Info točka Triglavskega narodnega parka Triglav National Park info point, Triglavska cesta 30, 4264 Boh. Bistrica t: +386 (0)4 574 75 90, f: +386 (0)4 574 75 91, e: info@bohinj.si, www.bohinj.si

Info center Bohinj, Ribčev Laz 48, 4265 Bohinjsko jezero t: +386 (0)4 574 60 10, f: +386 (0)4 572 33 30 e: info@bohinj–info.com, www.bohinj–info.com

www.bohinj.si

.............................................................................................................................................................................................................

Občina Bohinj

Su ha

R ZE JE H KI

LA VS IG TR NA LI DO

BLED CASTLE

+386 4 5729 782, www.bled-castle.si, blejski.grad@zkbled.si, FB: /BledCastle