Ljubljana In Your Pocket N°34 - February/March 2014

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Ljubljana February - March 2014

Embassies & Expats

A special feature for Ljubljana’s foreign residents

Roman Emona

Ljubljana celebrates the 2000th anniversary of the ancient Roman colony of Emona

inyourpocket.com N°34 - € 2.90

DEPARTMENT STORE LJUBLJANA

Argentino / Šmartinska 152 (BTC) / 1000 Ljubljana / Slovenija

fashion and beauty • restaurants and bars • travel • maxi market Trg republike 1, 1000 Ljubljana, Phone: +386 1 476 6850, www.maxi.si Monday – Friday 9:00 – 21:00 / Saturday 8:00 – 17:00 / Sunday closed.

Typical style of an Argentinian hacienda. Always fresh meat, best quality beef from Argentina. Indulge yourself with our grilled specialities. Old Argentinian recipes, on typical grills imported from Argentina. Wine Cellar with over 130 Argentinian Wines

www.argentino.si / mobile: +386 31 600 900

Contents

Ayurveda removes the root causes of diseases in a holistic way -

allergies arthritis obesity deppression eczema haemorrhoids chron’s disease high blood pressure rheumatism

-

insomnia gastritis liver disorders ishias menstrual problems migraines digestive problems vertigo skin diseases

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Arrival & Transport 8 The Basics 9 Statistics, politics and where to find the loo

Culture & Events Music, festivals and exhibitions Cultural centres and venues

12 12 16

Where to stay 18 Business suites to hostel bunks

Where to eat 24 Everything from A to V(egetarian)

Cafés 38 Enjoy one of Ljubljana’s favourite pastimes

Nightlife 40 Dance and drink the night away

Experts from India perform

Throughout 2014, Ljubljana will be celebrating the 2000th anniversary of the founding of the ancient Roman colony of Emona with a diverse programme of special events, exhibitions, tours and more, photo by Dunja Wedam

- ayurvedic consultation - herbal oil massages - ayurvedic detox therapies

What to see 46 Bridges, museums and the castle

Emona 51 Ljubljana turns 2000 (sort of)

Ayurveda has remarkable revitalization and prevention skills and is a strong cornerstone in the construction of our immune system.

It is also very effective in solving all kinds of chronic problems and in facilitating specific situations in different stages of life.

Shopping 54 Where to go and what to buy

Embassies & Expats 59 A special feature for foreign residents

In ayurveda, diet, herbs and treatments are personalized and this allows us to face the different life conditions in a way that is most favorable to us. – Ayurveda is a healing system and a way of life, which dates more than 5000 years back and which is still successfully used today.

Science of life and longevity

m: +386 (0)31 639 408 www.ayurveda.si Zabretova 9a, Ljubljana info@ayurveda.si

Postojna 72 Home of the world famous cave

Brdo 76 The domain of delights

Directory This year’s annual Carnival parade will take place on 1 March, with the usual assortment of traditional Slovene costumes being complimented with various Roman-themed participants, photo by Dunja Wedam

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Maps & Index City map Country map

76 80 82 February - March 2014

5

Foreword

In the News

If you’re familiar with our guide, or those from the more than 100 other cities where In Your Pocket is published, you’ll likely have noticed something different about our first issue of 2014. No, your eyes are not deceiving you, we’ve got a brand new look for the new year, which is cooler, cleaner and (hopefully) easier to use. More info about the makeover can be found in the box opposite.

We’ve also got lots of new content to go with our new design, including a special feature for Ljubljana’s foreign residents (or ‘expats’ as much as we dislike that term), the highlight of which is an extended interview with the US Ambassador Joseph Mussomeli (p 62-66). This year is an historic one for Ljubljana as well, as it marks the 2000th (yes, two thousandth!) anniversary of the founding of the Roman settlement of Emona, which was located in what is now the heart of modern Ljubljana. In honour of the occasion, the municipality and local tourist office have prepared a year-long programme of special events, exhibitions, tours and more (p 51), which we’ll be including even more coverage of in future guides.

When it comes to traditional cultural events in the coming months, two dates to circle on your calendar are 8 February and 1 March. The former is Slovenia’s national day of cultural, known as Prešeren Day (p12) after the nation’s renowned poet and paramount cultural icon France Prešeren, which is a work-free day (although it does fall on a Saturday this year) and an admission-free day at museums and other cultural institutions, while the latter is Carnival weekend (called Pust in Slovene), with festivities taking place across the country, most notably in the towns of Ptuj and Cerkinica, as well as Ljubljana of course.

As always welcome any and all feedback from our readers, be it on Facebook, Twitter, Foursquare, Pinterest or even old-fashioned email.

THe new in your pocket Publisher E S S E N TI A L Ljubljana In Your Pocket C I TY G U I D E S Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia Tel. +386 30 316 602 ljubljana@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc., niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com ISSN 1855-3486 ©IQBATOR d.o.o.

Printed Evrografis d.o.o.

Published Published six times per year Editorial Editor Yuri Barron Writer Yuri Barron, Will Dunn, Craig Turp, Richard Schofield, James Cosier, Jeroen Nab Design Design Vaida Gudynaitė Consulting Craig Turp Photography Ljubljana Tourism, Branka Jovanović, Dunja Wedam, Tadej Mulej, Urša Culiberg Cover photo © Susannah Cooke Sales & Circulation Sales & Operations Management Irena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar, Stanka Parkelj Rozina Copyright notice Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).

Maps Monolit d.o.o.

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6 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Georgia

It’s now 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 100 cities across the continent (with Gudauri, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, wellwritten and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching five million. We will be expanding even further this year, with the publication of a guide to Johannesburg: our first outside of Europe.

To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Regular readers would have no doubt noticed that this issue of In Your Pocket is sporting something of a new look. Designed entirely with our readers in mind, we have taken on board hundreds of comments we have received over the past few years to come up with a new format for our guides to make them more dynamic, streamlined and easier on the eye than ever before. With far less clutter than in past editions, we now emphasise the very best a city has to offer, while still ensuring that we point your way to all of those quirky, off-the-beaten track places you will not find in any other, lesser city guides. While we of course hope that the changes are met with approval by all our readers, do please get in touch if you have any feedback at all about our makeover: we welcome all opinions, be they good or bad or indifferent. Only by listening to our readers can we make In Your Pocket even better.

Send your thoughts about all things Pocket to the email address editor@inyourpocket.com, and follow us on both Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket) and Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) to keep up with all the latest developments at In Your Pocket.

Best Annual Events in Ljublana 2014 Ljubljana may have a shade less than 300,000 inhabitants, but when it comes to hosting events the Slovene capital boasts a cultural calendar that would be the envy of much larger cities. From film, theatre, music and performing arts festivals to important regional fairs and conferences to cutting edge fashion and design exhibitions there is definitely something for everyone virtually every month of the year.

Here at In Your Pocket we of course have our own favourites, but from 15 Dec to 15 Jan we let our readers (both local and foreign) let us know which annual events they were most eagerly looking forward to in 2014. After receiving nearly 2000 votes, the results are in and the top finishers are listed below. Congratulations to all of those who came out on top, and thanks to everyone who voted.

Interview with US Ambassador Joseph Mussomeli Some of the highlights from our four-page interview with Ambassador Mussomeli, which you can read in full on pages 62-65: Where were you stationed before Slovenia?

I started in Cairo in 1981 when Sadat was assassinated, then to the Philippines when Marcos was overthrown, then I worked on North Korea in the Department of State, then to Sri Lanka, Morocco, Bahrain and back to the Philippines. Finally to Cambodia and Afghanistan.

Why Slovenia?

Lots of reasons to choose Slovenia. First, I had been lying to my wife for 30 years - I am a diplomat after all! I had kept promising her we would go to a developed country and one with real seasons “soon.” She really doesn’t like the tropics and the desert, so I figured now was the time to finally keep that promise!

What are the first five words that come to your mind when you hear ‘Slovenia’ and ‘Ljubljana’?

Beautiful. Tragic. Wondrous. Safe. Welcoming.

What do you think of Slovenian wine?

Honestly, the wines are incredible. I can say, to paraphrase Will Rogers, that “I have never met a Slovene or a Slovene wine that I did not like.” facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Photo by Žiga Koritnik

February - March 2014

7

Arriving & Getting Around Officially part of the Schengen zone since late 2007 and nearly completely surrounded by other Schengen-agreement countries, entering Slovenia has never been easier.

With a well-developed system of buses, trains and highways throughout the country, getting around is also fairly easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively small, meaning public transport is rarely, if ever, needed when in town.

Arriving & Getting Around A Word From Our Mayor

Although most of Ljubljana’s sights are within easy walking distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of people (and you can trust us as we’re proud card carrying members of both groups), there is a far-reaching and fairly efficient bus network for reaching attractions farther afield, such as the Zoo, BTC shopping centre or even distant Šmarna Gora, or for those interested in seeing what the city looks like outside the city centre. Although you may be lucky enough to see some Titoera antiques plying the roads, the entire fleet is currently being modernised, so most of the time you can expect a comfortable ride. Schedules are displayed at all stops, and fares can only be paid using an Urbana Card or a Slovene mobile phone.

Arriving in Ljubljana Arriving by plane Ljubljana’s cosy little Jože Pučnik Airport is 26km northwest of the city, near Brnik. Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule.

Arriving by train Once you’ve worked out the tunnel and stair system and made it to the main train station building, find everything you need including an ATM and press stand selling top-up cards (but alas no SIM cards) for prepaid SIM accounts. Left luggage is provided courtesy of 80 coin-operated lockers with instructions in English on platform Nº1, with the toilets conveniently located next door. Getting to town depends as always on where you’re planning to stay and how fit you are. Many central hotels are within reasonable walking distance. Alternatively, find taxis outside, and make sure the meter is running before you depart.

Arriving by bus All national and international buses arrive at the central bus station which is located directly in front of the main train station. The ‘temporary’ prefabricated station building features little in the way of facilities for recent arrivals, making a trip to the train station almost compulsory. Perhaps the only one of its kind in the world, the bus station does however contain a Sixt car rental kiosk, with the only other

Vinjeta - A Ticket to Drive www.dars.si. Slovenia requires all motor vehicles travelling on Slovenian highways to have a vinjeta (veen-yehtah) sticker. This system exists in lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta can be easily obtained at nearly all gas stations and kiosks. Yearly/monthly/weekly stickers are €110/30/15 for cars, €220/80/40 for larger vehicles (ie with a height of over 1.3m above the front axis) and €55/30/7.50 for motorcycles. Also be aware that border police will likely not remind you to purchase a vinjeta when entering the country, but are highly likely to issue you a steep fine when leaving if you’ve failed to do so. For more info check www.dars.si.

8 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Public Transport

For me, Ljubljana is the most beautiful city in the the world – unique for its special position in the heart of Slovenia.

As a city with rich history and cultural heritage, it attracts ever more visitors every year from near and far. The most important ambassadors for Ljubljana are undoubtedly our residents, who live the intercultural dialogue and with their openness, kindness, and hospitality always ensure a touch of comfort and warmth.

LPP (Ljubljanski Potniški Promet) Ljubljana’s urban and suburban public transport company. There are LPP ticket sales offices at Slovenska 56 (Bavarski Dvor), Celovška 160 and the central bus station.QD-2, Slovenska 56, tel. +386 (0)14 30 51 74, mail@lpp.si, www.lpp.si.

Open 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Welcome to Ljubljana!

Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) does an admirable job of running an efficient network with clean modern trains that are usually on time. Their website (www.slozeleznice.si) contains a wealth of information in English, including live information on train delays as well as an online timetable. See the national and international train schedules in this guide for the main destinations.

Zoran Janković Mayor

useful facility being a small internet café for which tickets can be acquired from ticket window Nº1. Getting to town is the same as described above.

Arriving by car Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and excellent signposting. The city is circled by a ring road from where it’s easy to get to the centre. Simply follow the parking signs for convenient places to leave your car near the city centre. Once in the city, it’s best to walk the short distances rather than drive through the heavy traffic and narrow street. Also, if you’re staying in Old Ljubljana be aware that it is largely a pedestrian only zone.

GoOpti This new low cost airport shuttle service offers transfers to and from airports in neighbouring countries.

Departures can be booked between Ljubljana to nearly 20 airports in the region, including Venice, Munich and Vienna, using GoOpti’s novel online booking system.

Rates begin at as little as €9 per person.Qtel. +386 (0)1 320 45 30, info@goopti.com, www.goopti.com.

Trains

Train Station (Železniška Postaja) Full of nice touches such as little conveyor belts for taking heavy bags up to the platforms, Ljubljana’s reasonably central train station is just north of the main action. See Arriving for information on several of the station’s facilities, plus, if you’re planning on leaving town, the ticket office straight out of a 1970s disco movie is to the left of the main entrance, with signs and departure screens in English.QE-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte, tel. +386 (0)1291 33 32, potnik.info@ slo-zeleznice.si, www.slo-zeleznice.si. Open 05:00 - 22:00.

Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) QKolodvorska 11, Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0)1 29 13 332, potnik.info@slo-zeleznice.si, www.slo-zeleznice.si.

Buses Dozens of regular bus connections are available to efficiently whisk you to all corners of the country. See also the national and international bus schedules in this guide.

Ljubljana Bus Station (Avtobusno Postajališče) Essentially a large caravan without any wheels, Ljubljana’s temporary central bus station couldn’t be easier to use. Enter through one of the doors at either end, buy a ticket from one of the kiosks, and away you go. Some tickets can be bought directly from the driver, but you should always check

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Urbana Card The city bus operator, LPP, has finally introduced the longawaited Urbana Card, a form of electronic ticketing that will eventually replace the previous hodge-podge system of payment that included tokens, coins and photo ID cards. The credit card-sized smart card is similar to those already used in other cities, such as London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass. The cards can be purchased for a one-time fee of €2 at many locations including various tobacconists and news-stands, tourist offices, the central bus station and LPP offices at Bavarski Dvor and Celovška Cesta 160. Credit can be added for any amount between €1-50 at these same locations as well as some three dozen green Urbanomati machines scattered around town. When getting on the bus simply touch the card to one of the green card readers at the front entrance and €1.20 will be deducted from the card allowing 90 minutes of travel, including unlimited transfers. in the bus station to make sure. The bus station operates many national routes as well as regular international services.QD/E1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 4, tel. +386 (0)1 234 46 00, fax +386 (0)1 234 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana.si, www.ap-ljubljana.si. Open 05:00 - 22:30, Sat 05:00 - 22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30.

Car Rental The speed limit is 50km/hr in built-up areas, 90-100km/ hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars must use headlights at all times and must have a spare wheel, warning triangle, spare lightbulb, first aid kit and, in winter, either snow chains or winter tyres. The alcohol limit is 0.05%, and EU residents should be aware that any fines and/or driving license points incurred whilst in Slovenia will theoretically follow you home. The traffic information centre has road webcams and maps of current traffic problems at www.promet.si.

Budget Rental price higher without prior reservation online.QD-3, Miklošičeva 3 (Grand Hotel Union Executive), tel. +386 (0)14 21 73 40, info@budget.si, www. budget.si. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00 Airport office tel. (04) 201 43 00, open 07:00-23:00.

HERTZ CAR RENTAL QD-2, Trdinova 9, tel. +386 (0)1 434 01 47, ljubljana@hertz.si, www.hertz.si. Open 07:00 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Airport Ljubljana Airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika) Well connected to the Balkans and most major European destinations, Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport, 26km northFebruary - March 2014

9

Arriving & Getting Around west of the city, is as small and efficient as the rest of the country. There’s free Wi-Fi for internet addicts, a buffet-style restaurant, a couple cafés, a bank (with ATM) and currency exchange office (open 07:00 - 19:00) and a post office (open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00-12:00, Sun closed).

Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule.QZgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 20 610 00, fax +386 (0)4 20 212 20, info@lju-airport.si, www.ljuairport.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

Taxis Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable. The starting rate is usually between €0.80-1.50 with a per kilometre rate of €0.70-1.70, depending on the company, time of day and number of passenger. Waiting usually costs €15-20 per hour. Ordering a taxi by phone will get you lower rates for longer distance trips.

Laguna TaxiQJ-1, Celovška 228, tel. +386 (0)31 492 299/+386 (0)1 511 23 14, fax +386 (0)1 511 23 14, taxi. laguna@siol.net, www.taxi-laguna.com.

Metro TaxiQM-3/4, Litijska 16, tel. +386 (0)80 11 90/+386 (0)4 124 02 00, taxi@metroprevozi.net, www. metroprevozi.net/TaxiPrevozi.htm.

Taxi BrnikQtel. +386 (0)41 755 539/+386 (0)41 606 716, taxibrnik@siol.net, www.taxibrnik.com.

Taxi Društvo Ljubljana QC-2, Gosposvetska 10, tel. +386 (0)1 234 90 00/+386 (0)31 234 000, info@taxiljubljana.si, www.taxi-ljubljana.si.

Taxi Intertours QL-2, Središka 4, tel. +386 (0)1520 97 04, narocila.intertours@gmail.com, www.taxi-intertours.si.

Taxi Legende QAndreja Bitenca 50, tel. +386 (0)31 73 22 89, taxi.legende@gmail.com, www.taksilegende.com.

Taxi Rondo With nearly two decades in the transportation business, the friendly folks at Rondo know what it takes to please demanding foreign clients. Their large fleet of mid-range and high-end vehicles (Audi, BMW, Mercedes) guarantees a quick response time, while the fixed tariff of

SYMBOL key

City Basics €0.75/km is also one of the lowest in the city. Additional services include school transport, longer-term rentals, courier delivery and free return trips on longer journeys.Qtel. +386 (0)70 900 900/+386 (0)31 225 588, info@taxi-rondo.si, www.taxi-rondo.si.

Parking Garages PH Kapitelj Located along the Ljubljanica River beneath the modern Kapitelj and Urban Villa complex, which houses both shops, offices, residences and two embassies, the garage is only 100m or so from the famous Dragon Bridge and Tržnica market. While there are only 261 spaces, you can normally find a free one.QE-3, Poljanski nasip 4, tel. +386 (0)1 360 36 48/+386 (0)51 366 510, phkapitelj@kranjska-id.com, www.parkiraj. si. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

PH Meksiko Only opened in 2010, the Mexico Parking Garage is a large modern facility situated adjacent to the Slovenia’s main medical facilities and just down the street from the central bus and railway stations. There are a total of 624 spaces, and the ground floor is home to a popular German supermarket.QF-2, Njegošova 4, tel. +386 (0)1 600 40 38/+386 (0)51 366 510, phmeksiko@kranjska-id. com, www.parkiraj.si.Open 00:00 - 24:00.

PH Šentpeter Situated near the University of Ljubljana Medical Centre at the intersection of Zaloška and Njegoševa Streets, Šentpeter Parking House boasts some 500 parking spaces.QF-3, Zaloška 1, tel. +386 (0)1 430 59 02/+386 (0)5 136 65 10, phsentpeter@ kranjska-id.com, www.parkiraj.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

PH Trdinova Located in the very centre of the city, only a short walk from the Ljubljana Stock Exchange, main courthouse and various corporate head offices, the Trdinova Parking House has near 1200 spaces.QD2, Trdinova 9, tel. +386 (0)1 230 96 00/+386 (0)5 136 65 10, phtrdinova@kranjska-id.com, www.parkiraj.si.

Open 00:00 - 24:00.

From 07:00-19:00 €2 per hour, from 19:00-07:00 the first four hours are €1 per hour, while additional hours are €0.50. The daily rate is €32, while monthly fees are as low as €150.

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted B Outside seating

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

10 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Check out some alternative modes of transport at the Technical Museum in Vrhnika, photo by A. Fevžar

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Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

30

150

20

120

10

90

0

60

-10 -20

J

F M A M J

J

A

S O N D

30

Crime and safety Ljubljana is one of the safest capital cities in the world, with the only prevalent crime being bicycle theft, which is unlikely to affect short term visitors. Nowhere in the city is unsafe to walk at at any hour, although if you’re by yourself it’s probably best to avoid certain parts of Tivoli Park in the middle of the night. The only real threat to safety in the city comes from out-of-control cyclists and negligent drivers not paying attention to pedestrians. Perhaps a secondary menace are slow-to-react automatic doors that seem to be installed in shops across Ljubljana - causing hurried consumers much grief and the rare minor injury.

Drinking Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and sadly after 21:00 it cannot be bought in stores.

Money Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros,

basic data Population Slovenia 2,048,951 (2011 estimate) Ljubljana 280,140 (2011 estimate) Area 20,273 square kilometres Ethnic composition Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%, Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7% Official languages Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian Local time Central European (GMT + 1hr) Longest river Sava (221km in Slovenia) Highest mountain Triglav 2,864m.

Borders Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km, Croatia 670km facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated with among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses, a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik design.

Politics The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy. The president, Borut Pahor, was elected in Decmber 2012, after previously serving as prime minister until early elections were called in December 2011, which brought the rather divisive former prime minister Janez Janša and his conservative party back to power. However, the new old government lasted just over one year, as months of large street protests led to its collapse in March 2013, and the formation of a new coalition under Slovenia’s first female prime minister, Alenka Bratušek. Only time will tell how long this government lasts though, as these days optimism is in perhaps historically short supply.

Smoking Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.

Toilets Clean and pleasant public toilets can be found at Dragon Bridge (07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plečnik Passageway west of Zvezda Park (07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) and at Triple Bridge (07:00 - 21:00).

Exchange rates 1 EUR € = 1.35 US$ = 0.84 UK£ = 1.22 CHF = 8.28 CNY = 132 ¥ = 115 дин = 44 руб (24 Jan 2014)

Market Values Compared to the rest of Western and Central Europe, prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite noticeable increases since the introduction of the Euro in 2007. Here are some typical everyday products and prices:

Product Price McDonald’s Big Mac €2.40 Slice of pizza € 1.80 Slice of burek € 2.00 Cup of coffee € 1.10 Bottle of name brand vodka € 12.50 Decent bottle of local wine € 3.50 Bottle of local beer in a shop € 1.10 Pint of beer in a pub € 2.70 Pack of cigarettes € 3.20 Single bus ride € 1.20 Movie ticket € 4.90 Litre of petrol € 1.49 Taxi ride across town € 5.00 February - March 2014

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Culture & Events

Culture & Events events in february 7 Feb - The Nightingale of Gorenjska @ Ljubljana Opera 8 Feb - Slovenian National Day of Culture @ Everywhere

9 Mar - Shaolin: Kung Fu @ Hala Tivoli

14 Feb - Rolling Stones Tribute @ Hala Tivoli 14 Feb - Rapetek 100 feat Alkaholiks @ Gala Hala

04.02 Tuesday - 08.02 Saturday Curry and Ethnic Food Festival This February Hotel Park will be hosting Slovenia’s first and only Curry Festival for the third consecutive year. In cooperation with Curry Life Magazine, as series of workshops, presentations and tastings will take place during the festival, while for those members of the public who are primarily interested in tucking into a steaming plate of authentic Indian or Bangladeshi cuisine, head straight to Hotel Park, where the kitchen will be turning out curry and various other dishes under the supervision of a team of international chefs for the entire week.QHotel Park, tel. +386 (0)1 200 3924, www.hotelpark.si.

21.03 Friday European Day of Early Music In 2014, a newly consecrated European cultural tradition will continue with the European Day of Early Music taking place on 21 March for the second time. Formed under the aegis of the REMA - European Early Music Network, this year the celebration of over a millennium’s worth of musical treasures will be held under the auspices of UNESCO. Across the continent there will countless concerts, conference and other events marking the occasion, with the Slovene programme of special events being organised by the Seviqc Brežice Festival. As we went to press the venue details were not yet known, so check the official website for more info nearer to the date.Qwww.seviqc-brezice.si.

12 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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1, 8, 28 Mar - The Bat @ Ljubljana Opera

10 Feb - Portraits II (English surtitles) @ Mladinsko Theatre

13 Feb - The Stroj @ Kino Šiška

08.02 Saturday Prešeren Day Being the finest poet in the Slovenian language and undisputed national hero is of course enough to earn you a permanent place on the calendar. Slovenia’s national day of cultural, or Prešernov Dan (Prešeren’s Day) to the locals, means that the 8th of February is a work-free day, and most museums and galleries in Ljubljana open their doors and waive their admission fees. Meanwhile, the Prešeren Awards and Prešeren Foundation Awards give the highest Slovenian recognition for scientific and cultural achievements.

1 Mar - Angelique Kidjo @ Cankarjev Dom

7 Mar - Frank Turner & The Sleeping Souls @ Kino Šiška

12 Feb - The Russian Virtuosi @ Križanke

01.03 Saturday Ljubljana’s Dragon Carnival The Dragon carnival traditionally held in Ljubljana consists of a large Shrovetide carnival parade through the city’s streets and a programme of entertainment held in the centrally located Kongresni Trg. The carnival parade includes, among others, a number of typical Slovenian carnival figures rooted in pagan tradition, such as ‘kurent’, ‘laufar’, ‘morostar’ and several others.

The main theme of this year’s carnival will be Emona, a Roman city which stood on the site of the present-day Ljubljana 2000 years ago.QOld Town Centre.

1 Mar - Dragon Carnival @ Old Town

8 Feb - Disco Fever 10th Anniversary @ Cvetličarna

11 Feb - Les Ballets Jazz de Montréal @ Cankarjev Dom

One of Ljubljana’s most interesting performance spaces, Stara Elektrarna (the old electricity plant in the city centre), will be staging two very interesting productions from 3-9 Feb, including a take on Eugene Ionesco’s work The Killer entitled Everything We’ve Lost While We’ve Gone on Living. See www.bunker.si for more info, photo by Toni Soprano

events in march

11 Mar - The Welcoming of Spring @ Eipperova Canal 11 Mar - International Home Fair @ Ljubljana Exhibition Centre 13-15, 20-22, 25 Mar - A Masked Ball @ Opera Ljubljana 13-16 Mar - Ljubljana SweetSwing Festival @ Hotel Union

14/15, 21/22 Feb - Romeo and Juliet @ Opera Ljulbjana

13-20 Mar - Ljubljana International Documentary Film Festival @ Various Venues

21 Feb - Dimitri From Paris @ Cvetličarna

21 Mar - BBC Philharmonic @ Cankarjev Dom

21 Feb - Hatebreed @ Kino Šiška

24 Mar - Toy @ Kino Šiška

26 Feb - 8 Mar - Fabula Literary Festival @ Various Venues

26 Mar - Venice Baroque Orchestra @ Cankarjev Dom

27 Feb - Anna Calvi @ Kino Šiška

27-29 Mar - Collecta Fair @ Ljubljana Exhibition Centre

28 Feb - Rigoletto @ Ljubljana Opera

Many more events online at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

29 Mar - Rufus Wainwright @ Cankarjev Dom 29 Mar - Rigoletto @ Ljubljana Opera 1 Apr - Blood Red Shoes @ Kino Šiška

EXHIBITIONS IN FEB/MAR until 14 Feb - Aleš Gregorič @ Photon Gallery

until 30 Mar - Boris Beja: Minuet for Him @ Ljubljana Castle

until 20 Feb - Marko Batista: Temporary Objects @ Aksioma Project Space

until 12 Apr - Jože Ciuha: The Labyrinth @ Jakopič Gallery

until 28 Feb - Alban Muja: I Never Knew How to Explain @ ŠKUC Gallery

19 Feb - 18 Apr - Eight Female Painters @ Cankarjev Dom

until 28 Feb - Tito: A Yugoslav Icon @ Ljubljana Exhibition Centre

until 20 Apr - The Wheel, 5200 Years @ City Museum

until 13 Mar - Janez Kotar: Beyond the City and Villages @ Krakovski Nasip

until 1 May - Overseas Combatants @ Museum of Contemporary History

until 23 Mar - 19th Century Architecture in Slovenia @ Museum of Architecture

until 15 May - Gabrijel Stupica: A Retrospective @ Museum of Modern Art

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February - March 2014

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Culture & Events ed by extensive historical video footage from the Slovene Film Archive and private collections. The massive offering is divided into ten distinct sections, including Tito’s Travels , the Non-Aligned Movement, Tito’s Vehicle Fleet, Artistic Representations of Tito, Tito’s New Year’s Eve Celebrations and finally the Funeral of All Funerals. Both informative and interesting, it’s definitely an exhibition not to be missed.QK-3, Ljubljana Exhibition Centre, Dunajska 18, tel. +386 (0)51 787 935, info@tito-razstava.si, www. tito-razstava.si. Open 10:00 - 19:00.

The wheel - 5200 years

Archival photos of Tito hobnobbing with the world’s elite are just part of the massive exhibition about the former Yugoslav leader, open until 28 Feb at the Ljubljana Exhibition Centre

10.02 Monday - 27.02 Thursday Erasmus Theatre Subscription Slovenia has a long history of staging high-quality productions, which continues to this day with regular performances at more than a dozen theatres and other cultural venues in Ljubljana alone. However, unfortunately for international audiences, virtually all shows are in the Slovene language, making them largely inaccessible for foreigners theatregoers. Recognising this shortcoming, for the 2013/14 season Ljubljana’s Mladinsko Gledališče (Youth Theatre) has organised a series of four performances of the most popular works from their repertoire with surtitles in English and other languages - collectively known as the Erasmus Subscription, after the city’s large international student population. The remaining shows are Portraits II, written and directed by Slovene playwright Vito Taufer (10 Feb), and Dostoevsky’s Crime and Punishment (27 Feb).

QMladinsko Gledališče, Vilharjeva 11, tel. +386 (0)1 425 33 12, en.mladinsko.com.

07.11 Thursday - 28.02 Friday Tito: A Yugoslavian Icon Love him or hate him, Josip Broz Tito was one of the truly larger than life figures of the 20th century, and as the name of the exhibition attests, an icon of Yugoslavia. The leader of the Partisan resistance during World War II, founder of the modern Yugoslav state and president for some four decades until his death in 1980, Tito was seen by some as an authoritarian dictator and other as a mostly benevolent ruler, with his legacy still perpetuating historical and political divisions across the former Yugoslav states to this day, including in Slovenia.

Tito: A Yugoslavian Icon is first exhibition of its kind in the country, and one of the largest and most comprehensive exhibitions of the former ruler anywhere, befitting of Tito’s stature and the impact he had on the 20th century.

Consisting of over 300 original photographs from various sources, as well as selected personal items from institutions in Slovenia and Serbia, the exhibits are compliment14 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Photo by Matevž Paternoster

24.05 Friday - 20.04 Sunday In 2002 a largely intact wooden wheel was unearthed from the marshlands just south of Ljubljana by a team of Slovene archaeologists. After undergoing radiocarbon dating at a special laboratory in Vienna, the wheel was found to be more than 5000 years old, making it the oldest wooden wheel ever discovered, and one of the most important archaeological finds ever made on Slovene territory.

After several years of preparation, a massive exhibition centred around this amazing wheel is being held at the City Museum of Ljubljana. The exhibition is divided into three sections, which begins with a thorough investigation of the wheel’s contemporary environment, namely, the prehistoric pile dwelling civilisation that once inhabited the marshes.

Next the history of the wheel’s development through time is traced, with special emphasis given to the industrial revolution and the wider economic, scientific, political and social impact that it had. The final section takes a step into the abstract, raising some thoughtprovoking questions of time, space and the universe itself.QCity Museum of Ljubljana, Gosposka 15, www.mgml.si.

Ustanoviteljica

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Culture & Events Cinemas Foreign films are screened in the original language with Slovenian subtitles, except for children’s films which are usually dubbed. Aside from the largest blockbusters, films tend to open with significant lag with respect to larger markets, so don’t be surprised to see posters advertising something released months earlier in you own country.

Tickets cost approximately €5.

KinodvorQD-2, Kolodvorska 13, tel. +386 (0)1 239 22 17, info@kinodvor.org, www.kinodvor.org.

Kino KomunaQCankarjeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 241 8400, www.kolosej.si.

KolosejQM-3, Šmartinska 152, tel. +386 (0)15 20 55 00, www.kolosej.si.

Slovenska KinotekaQD-2, Miklošičeva 28, tel. +386 (0)1 43 42 524, www.kinoteka.si.

Concert Halls Centre StožiceQL-1, Vojkova Cesta.

Hala Tivoli QA/B-1, Celovška 25, tel. +386 (0)1 430 67 50, justina.gosak@zavod-tivoli.si, www.zavod-tivoli.si.

Opera & Ballet LjubljanaQB/C-3, Župančičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 24 11 766/+386 (0)31 696 600, blagajna@ opera.si, www.opera.si.

Slovenian Philharmonic (Slovenska Filharmonija)QC-4, Kongresni Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 241 08 00, info@filharmonija.si, www.filharmonija.si.

Conference Venues Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre (Gospodarsko Razstavišče) GR, as it is known in Slovene, is the largest convention centre in Slovenia, and is the location of nearly all of Ljubljana’s major conventions, fairs and trade shows. With 20 multifunctional halls and rooms it can accommodate thousands of visitors, and also has 1,500 parking spaces within short walking distance. For those arriving by public transport, it is located only 300 metres from the main train and bus stations.QD-1, Dunajska 18, tel. +386 (0)13 00 26 11, luka.zajc@gr-sejem.si, www.gr-sejem.si.

Cultural Centres Cankarjev Dom This complex from the early 1980s is a major venue for concerts, theatre, dance, film, exhibitions and congresses.QB-3/4, Prešernova 10, tel. +386 (0)12 41 71 00, info@cd-cc.si, www.cd-cc.si.

Centre of Sonorous Arts Vodnik Manor House Despite being only a short bike/bus ride or walk from the city centre, a trip to the the birthplace of Slovenia’s first poet Valentin Vodnik feels like visiting a country16 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Culture & Events bUY Tickets Eventim Online ticket sales for more than 3,000 events per year, including concerts, sports, and cultural events across Slovenia and Central Europe. Check the offer of events and buy tickets before you even arrive in Slovenia.QB-1, Celovška 25, tel. +386 (0)14 30 24 05, info@eventim.si, www.eventim.si/portal/en.

Tourist Information Centre The helpful staff at Ljubljana’s main tourist information centre can answer pretty much any question you have about the city, provide you with maps and countless other brochures, and also sell tickets for concerts, shows and various other events.QD-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. +386 (0)13 06 12 15, tic@visitljubljana.si, www. visitljubljana.si. Open October-May 08:00-19:00, June-September 08:00-21:00. side village. Tucked away in a leafy residential area of Šiška, since 2012 the beautifully restored 17th century manor house has been home to the Centre of Sonorous Arts, which organises a wide variety of cultural events and activities including exhibitions, installations, concerts, children’s workshops, research, lectures, music lessons, guided tours and of course sonorous theatre performances.

Developed by a passionate team led by Hanna Preuss, the sonorous theatre comprises of a variety of art forms whose basic means of expression are sound, rhythm and atmosphere, and performances often intertwine with other art forms, such as film, music, theatre, poetry and dance.

The centre is truly the first and only of its kind in the world and definitely a must-see attraction for those interested in contemporary arts. See the centre’s website for more info a complete schedule of upcoming events.QJ-3, Vodnikova 65, tel. +386 (0)59 03 75 10, info@vodnikovadomacija.si, www.vodnikova-domacija.si. Open Tues & Thur 10:00-13:00 & 16:00-18:00, Wed & Fri 10:00-13:00, and Sat-Sun by prior arrangement. Closed Mon. Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture Centre) Ljubljana’s famous artists’ colony hosts a number of clubs, most of which play thrash style music to a dreadlocked black-clad audience of all ages. Unfortunately little of the website is in English so it would be a case of try it and see, but what we can say for sure is that it provides a refreshing and alternative alternative to the dance music found in most other clubs and attracts a crowd who probably care more that you’re ‘cool’ as in non-judgmental than ‘cool’ as in what you’re wearing and how you sip your drink. Well worth checking-out both for itself and for the philosophy behind the whole set-up.QF-1/2, Masarykova 24, www.metelkova.org.

Galleries These are some of the city’s more established smaller galleries - most of which have art available for purchase. For ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

info on larger galleries and museums please refer to the Sightseeing section.

Aksioma Project Space QD/E-2, Komenskega 18, tel. +386 (0)590 54 360/+386 (0)590 17 010, projectspace@aksioma.org, www.aksioma.org. Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. Alkatraz Galerija QF-2, Masarykova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 434 0345, fax +386 (0)1 432 3378, galerija.alkatraz@ gmail.com, www.galerijalkatraz.org. Open Mon-Tues 11:00-15:00 and 16:00-20:00, and Fri 15:00-23:00.

BeArtAngel This little gallery on Gornji Trg in Ljubljana’s old town is the peaceful sanctuary of local Slovene artist Božidar A. Kolerič, who paints under the name BeArtAngel. Kolerič has spent his life exploring creativity and life energy, and BeArtAngel represents his latest artistic endeavour. The paintings, which are known around the world, are said to represent unseen energies and support people in achieving inner peace. If it sounds confusing don’t worry, Kolerič is on hand at the gallery and happy to explain the meaning behind BeArtAngel and each painting’s energies.QD-4, Gornji Trg 19, tel. +386 (0)41 764 352, beartangel@gmail.com, www.beartangel.si. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Galerija EqurnaQC-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1252 71 23, equrna@volja.net, www.equrna.si. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. No admission.

Galerija Kresija QD-3, Stritarjeva 6, tel. +386 (0)13 06 11 71. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00.

Galerija TR3 QTrg Republike 3, tel. +386 (0)1 241 25 00, galerija.tr3@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Ganes Pratt Mala GalerijaQC-3, Slovenska 35, tel. +386 (0)1 241 68 50/+386 (0)51 242 811, galerija@ ganes-pratt.si, www.ganes-pratt.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon, Sun.

Kino Šiška Kino Šiška (Urban Cultural Centre) After nearly a year of renovation, one the city’s most iconic cinemas reopened its doors in 2009 as an urban cultural centre featuring several state-of-the-art preformance halls and exhibition spaces. Dedicated to promoting contemporary music, theatre, dance and experimental events, it already attracts big-name regional and international artists, and is scheduled to hosts around 200 events per year. Most concerts are held in its largest multi-purpose hall, dubbed ‘the Cathedral’, which can fit over 932 people. Check out their English language website for more info and a full schedule of events.QK-3, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)30 310 100, info@kinosiska. si, www.kinosiska.si. PHLEB facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Jakopič GalerijaQC-4, Slovenska 9, tel. +386 (0)1 24 12 500, info@mestnimuzej.si, www.mestnimuzej.si.

Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Little Black Gallery (Mala črna galerija) QD-4, Mestni trg 9, tel. +(386) 51 370 769, incognito.n@ gmail.com, www.incognitodesign.si. Open 10:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mestna Galerija (City Gallery) QD-3/4, Mestni Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1 241 17 70, mestna.galerija-lj@ siol.net, www.mestna-galerija.si. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Škuc GalleryQD-4, Stari Trg 21, tel./fax +386 (0)1421 31 40, galerija.skuc@guest.arnes.si, www. galerija.skuc-drustvo.si. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tobačna 001 QA-4, Tobačna 1, tel. +386 (0)1 24 12 500, info@mgml.si, www.mgml.si. Open 11:00 - 19:00.

Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. Vžigalica Galerija QC-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 7, info@mgml.si, www.mgml.si. Open 11:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon.

Theatres Most plays are in Slovenian, though every now and then there’s a company visiting from abroad. Times given are the box office opening hours.

Gledališče GlejQC-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 251 66 79, info@glej.si, www.glej.si.

Kavarna UnionQD-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1308 17 63, www.gh-union.si. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Mini TheatreQC-4, Križevniška 1, tel. +386 (0)1 425 60 60/+386 (0)41 314 414, info@mini-teater.si, www. mini-teater.si.

National Drama Theatre (Narodno Gledališče Drama)QC-4, Erjavčeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1252 15 11, drama@drama.si, www.drama.si. Open 14:00 - 17:00 and 18:00 to showtime, Sat 18:00 to showtime, Sun closed.

Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno Gledališče) QD/E-3, Krekov Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)1300 09 70, www.lgl. si. The box office is open Monday to Friday from 16:00 to 18:00, Saturday from 10:00 to 12:00, and during the hour prior to each performance.

Slovenian Youth Theatre (Slovensko Mladinsko Gledališče) QE-1, Vilharjeva 11, tel. +386 (0)1 425 33 12, info@mladinsko-gl.si, en.mladinsko.com. Main box office at Trg Francoske Revolucije 5 is open Mon-Fri 12:00-17:30, Sat 10:0013:00.

Stara ElektrarnaQE-2, Slomskova 18, tel. +386 (0)51 269 906, info@bunker.si, www.bunker.si.

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NEWEST, HIGHEST AND MOST MODERN HOTEL IN LJUBLJANA

Where to stay Not surprisingly for a popular tourist and business destination, Ljubljana provides a wide range of accommodation options to suit all tastes and budgets. As you’d expect, prices creep up the closer you get to the centre, but the cost of a night here still remains relatively low in comparison with western Europe. The city’s popularity does mean however that places do book up for the summer. Ensuring you get yourself the room you want in the location you want and for the price you want during the summer is highly recommended.

Hotels Over €170 Cubo This relatively new boutique hotel has a great location right in the heart of the city opposite beautiful Kongresni Trg and Zvezda Park. In its couple short years Cubo has already won a host of awards for excellence, including our own IYP Best Business Hotel competition. Its 26 rooms are modern, elegant islands of tranquility, with gorgeous views of the castle and old town, and a friendly professional staff that is always eager to make your stay as comfortable and memorable as possible. The street-level restaurant serves equally praiseworthy cuisine, and is a popular spot for business lunches.

QC-4, Slovenska 15, tel. +386 (0)1 425 60 00, fax +386 (0)1 425 60 20, reception@hotelcubo.com, www.hotelcubo. com. 26 rooms (singles €140, doubles €180, suites €350).

PJALKW hhhh Grand Hotel Union Business Attached to its sibling Executive hotel and sharing some but not all of the facilities on offer, accommodation comes in a choice of rooms and suites with a slightly feminine touch, but not enough to put off the serious male business traveller. Shared facilities include a grand total of 21 conference and banqueting rooms, secure parking and the pleasing fact that the best sights and leisure activities in the city are all close at hand. Check out their extensive website for further information.QD-3, Miklošičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1308 11 70, fax +386 (0)1308 19 14, hotel.business@gh-union.si, www.gh-union.si. 133 rooms (singles €178-212, doubles €193-227, suites €372-446).

PTJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh

Book tasteful, modern accommodation along the banks of the Ljubljanica at Old Town Apartments and Rooms, see page 23 for more info

18 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Where to stay

Hotel Listings Policy Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical order within that band. The price band refers to the rack rate for a double room.

Grand Hotel Union Executive In a great location in the heart of the city centre, the Executive offers fine accommodation in a range of tastefully decorated rooms, suites and apartments. Complete with a lovely old world, Art Nouveau ambience, expect an excellent choice of facilities for both business and leisure. Extras include two decent restaurants, a small bar, airport shuttle service and a decent gift shop. In keeping with its reputation, the hotel also hosts the local bridge club, who meet every Monday at 18:00.

QD-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1308 12 70, hotel. union@gh-union.si, www.gh-union.si. 194 rooms (singles €194-233, doubles €209-248, suites €455546). PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh Lev Opened in 1964, Lev boasts a pedigree that has managed to entice notable celebrities, such as Agatha Christie, Kirk Douglas, Luciano Pavarotti, Bob Dylan and countless others.

A glistening marble lobby serves as a fine overture to 173 high quality, air-conditioned rooms, ranging from singles through to some exceedingly posh suites. All come complete with amenities every guest looks for, including complementary wireless internet access. Hotel Lev offers also conference services and high-end Mediterranean cuisine, served in the award-winning á la carte Restaurant Pri Levu.QC-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. +386 (0)1 433 21 55, info@hotel-lev.si, www.hotel-lev.si. 173 rooms (singles €200-286, doubles €240-312).

PJHAR6UFGKXW hhhh

Hotels €100-170 Antiq A superb location in the heart of the old town with a host of rooms to suit all tastes and budgets. Featuring a welcoming little lobby with lots of nice feminine touches, the rooms have been given a distinctly boutique hotel feel, with huge wooden beds, patterned carpets, interesting paintings on the walls and some really smart pieces of furniture. Even the small budget economy rooms have been approached with a tasteful eye, whereas at the other end of the spectrum the superiors come with bags of space, lovely chandeliers and magnificent bathrooms. Room 13 on the other hand takes a different, more modernistic approach, with wooden floors and minimalist furniture.QD-4, Gornji Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 35 60, fax +386 (0)1 421 35 65, info@antiqhotel. eu, www.antiqhotel.eu. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 16 rooms (singles €85-110, doubles €156-206, extra bed €50).

PJAR6IGW hhhh ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

HIGHLIGHTS OF PLAZA HOTEL LJUBLJANA 236 modern, comfortable and spacious rooms Free Wi-Fi and tness Superb cuisine and a large selection of wines Free admitance into Atlantis Water Park (swimming pools) Great location and accessibility Parking space on the hotel parking site and in garage for only 8 EUR per day Special prices for transfer to the City Centre (5 EUR per car) and to the airport (25 EUR per car) Immediate proximity to shopping centres and entertainment areas

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LIYP_oglas_julij_2013_krivulje.pdf 1 26.7.2013 10:06:48

Where to stay

Where to stay

modern rooms with air-conditioning and views of the pine forest, as well as free Wi-Fi and a shuttle service to the city centre. The hotel features a self-service restaurant offering various soups, grilled food, wok dishes and all sorts of salads and fruits, and a second à la carte restaurant serving gourmet dishes and Slovenian wines. Breakfast consists of a wide selection of cereals and hot dishes.QI-4, Pot Za Brdom 4, tel. +386 (0)1 470 27 00, fax +386 (0)1 470 27 08, info@hotel.mons.si, www.hotel.mons.si. 114 rooms (singles €95-210), doubles €125-150, suites €160-330).

PTHAR6FLGKDXW hhhh G Design The exceedingly modern G Design may be one of Ljubljana’s newest hotels, but it also boasts over two hundred years of tradition, as the still functioning (and beautifully restored) Gostilna Gorjanc restaurant has been serving travellers at the same location since the end of the 18th century. The large well-furnished rooms feature soft lighting and super comfortable beds, with panoramic views of Ljubljana castle in the distance. Well-equipped conference facilities and meeting rooms are available, and for a real treat you can dine ‘in bed’ at the unique G Super Club. The hotel is conveniently situated just off the Brezovica exit on the motorway, at the edge of the forest just a short drive south of the city centre.QH-5, Tržaška 330, tel. +386 (0)1 200 91 00, info@gdesignhotel.si, www. gdesignhotel.si. 22 rooms. HAULKW hhhh Best Western Premier Hotel Slon On the site of the oldest hotel in Ljubljana, the Slon is the best value stay in the city. For a very reasonable price you get a ton of luxury, from a pillow menu (yes, really) to sheets of only the purest cotton. The breakfast is a buffet affair of the highest quality; you should turn up early if you want to have time to taste everything. Add in a small fitness centre and sauna, free Wi-Fi, home entertainment centres in every room, tremendous service and a location in the very heart of the city, and you have one hell of a package.

QC-3, Slovenska 34, tel. +386 (0)1 470 11 00, fax +386 (0)1 251 71 64, sales@hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon. com. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 168 rooms (singles €75 - 134, doubles €110-160, triples €165-180, suites €201-335).

PJHAR6UIGKDXW hhhh Central The classic four-star hotel experience, the Garni is the little brother of the three Union hotels in the city, but that doesn’t necessarily make him a weakling. Geared up exceptionally well for the tourist market, the reception is crammed with the latest useful information about the city and surrounding region, plus there’s bicycle hire during the summer. The combined bar-restaurant isn’t too bad either, and the rooms feature everything you need for a good value stay right in the heart of the city centre. Excellent value accommodation indeed.QD2, Miklošičeva 9, tel. +386 (0)13 08 43 00, fax +386 (0)1230 11 81, central.hotel@gh-union.si, www.centralhotel.si. 74 rooms (singles €90-167, doubles €100-197, suites €286-343).

PJHAR6UFGKDXCW hhh 20 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Mons A stylish hotel located in natural surroundings next to the Ljubljana Brdo exit of the A2 motorway, Mons was designed by the famous architect Boris Podrecca. It offers elegant,

Hotel Azur

Plaza Hotel Ljubljana Reaching nearly 60m into the sky, the Plaza Hotel is one of the tallest - and dare we say most elegant - buildings in Slovenia. It boasts a total of 236 spacious luxuriouslyappointed rooms, a first-rate restaurant and café, a 400m2 conference room on the 15th floor, and a rooftop lounge bar with cocktails that are almost as good as the view.

Even if you live in Ljubljana you may want to consider booking a room for the night just to experience it all for yourself - we already have!QM-3, Bratislava 8, tel. +386 (0)1 243 00 00, info@plazahotel.si, www.plazahotel.si.

C 236 rooms. PALKW hhhh M

Vander Urbani Resort Down a narrow cobbled alleyway connecting MestniY Trg with the riverside, an urban oasis has been constructed CM inside of four centuries-old town houses. Extensively renovated by Sadar Vuga architects in the most contemMY porary of styles and a member of Design Hotels, the resort (which is not an inaccurate term) is comprised CYof a restaurant and lounge bar on the ground floor, with exquisite and uniquely-designed guest rooms locatedCMYon the floors above. However, perhaps the most impressive K single feature is the rooftop terrace, which boasts an infinity pool, yoga studio and glorious views of Ljubljana’s medieval old town.QD-4, Krojaška 6-8, tel. +386 (0)1 200 9000, fax +386 (0)1 200 9001, info@vanderhotel.com, vanderhotel.com. Singles from €120, doubles from €165. PJHAKCW hhhh

Hotels €70-100 This small welcoming hotel takes a personal approach to guests’ needs and accommodating their desires. Ideally situated near both the city centre and the motorway, it is also within walking distance of the city’s largest green space, Tivoli Park. Rooms are individually decorated, and come with all the modern amenities standard in larger hotels. They also offer family rooms with extra space for little ones and small kitchens, and an on-site shop sells regional gourmet products. Perhaps best of all the rooms are located next to a great restaurant of the same name.QJ-4, Sattnerjeva 2, tel. +386 (0)59 333 600/+386 (0)40 636 205, fax +386 (0)59 333 608, azur.ghbooking@gmail.com, www.garnihotelazur.si.

7 rooms. PTAR6LW hhh ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Medno Located just a few minutes drive northwest of Ljubljana, Medno offers both convenient access to the city centre and a peaceful setting surrounded by nature, with the Sava River meandering by across the road, numerous cycling and walking trails in the area, and Katarina hill (one of Ljubljana’s most popular weekend hiking spots) just behind the property. The hotel itself has a wide range of good value rooms, as well as seminar facilities, a relaxing wellness centre and a fine restaurant. For those without their own transport, city bus #25 also stops just down the street.

QMedno 54, tel. +386 (0)1 362 61 00, fax +386 (0)1 362 61 16, recepcija@hotel-medno.si, www.epiceco-hotels. com. 97 beds (singles €57-64, doubles €74-84, suites €75-104). PTHAR6LGKXW hhh facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

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Where to stay

Where to stay Tržaška 24, 1000 Ljubljana Phone/Fax: +386 (0)5 9020 452 +386 (0)41 874 400 fax:+386 (0)5 9060 012 www.martastudio.eu info@martastudio.eu

Hotels Under €70 Pension Jelen Located on the old road leading to Medvode and onwards to Austria (Celovška Cesta is Slovene for Villach Road), Jelen has been hosting travellers since the late-19th century, and is also a popular restaurant and pizzeria. Rooms are modernly equipped and the location offers easy access to Ljubljana’s sights as well as airport, and for those without their own transport, Jelen can be conveniently reached by three different bus lines from the city centre (1, 8 and 25).QCelovška 462, tel. +386 (0)1 516 15 45, info@pension-jelen.eu, www.pensionjelen.eu. 16 rooms starting from €38.

Apartments Pri Mraku With more than 150 years of a tradition as a guesthouse, this family-run hotel gets top marks for its central location, friendly service and excellent traditional Slovene restaurant - the latter boasting hidden inner courtyard where you can dine under the shade of two-century-old grape vines. The three dozen rooms are simple but comfortable and well-kept, while a generous breakfast and helpful staff are the most often cited reasons for repeat visitors and word of mouth recommendations. Located down a small side street at the edge of the old town’s pedestrian zone, the adjacent parking lot is an added convenience.

QC-4, Rimska 4, tel. +386 (0)1 421 96 00, hotelmrak@dajdam.si, www.daj-dam.si. 35 rooms (singles €62-82, doubles €94-123). PTJARLGKXW hhh Stari Tišler With over a century and a half of tradition, Stari Tišler offers friendly service and eight cosy rooms just a few blocks from the main train station. Recently renovated, it combines the charm and atmosphere of a small village guesthouse with the convenience of a central location and modern amenities. The rooms are individually designed based on motifs of different regions in Slovenia and all come with en suite bathrooms. The a restaurant downstairs serves up tasty authentic Slovene cuisine.QD-2, Kolodvorska 8, tel. +386 (0)1 430 33 70, fax +386 (0)1 430 33 75, info@stari-tisler. com, www.stari-tisler.com. 8 rooms (singles €50-75, doubles €60-80, triples €90-120). Breakfast €5/person.

PJAKW 22 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Kollmann Apartments These beautifully renovated luxury apartments and rooms right in the centre of the old town are truly a sight to behold. The highlight of the smaller unit is the king-sized waterbed located in a loft bedroom separated from the living room below, while the larger apartment is absolutely huge, with two bedrooms, a full bathtub and a washing machine. Both apartments and one of the rooms have fully-equipped kitchenettes, while the larger of the apartments and both rooms also have great views of the Ljubljanica and old town below. All units feature brand new LCD TVs and free internet,QD-4, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 27, tel. +386 (0)51 268 288, info@ljubljana-apartments.eu, www.ljubljana-apartments.eu. Apartment 1 (2-3 people) €93, Apartment 2 (6-8) €176, ensuite rooms (2-4) €78-85. PTJA6GXW MartaStudio These three self-contained studios and one large 106m² apartment are reasonably priced alternatives to booking a hotel. All fitted with modern facilities, including kitchenettes, the family-run accommodation is just a short 10-minute walk from the city centre, or an even shorter bus ride from the stop just a few metres away (lines 1 and 6). A supermarket, restaurants and banks are all nearby, and airport pick-up can be arranged for little more than the cost of a bus. The entrance is in the same building as the shop Mavrica, look for the house in the courtyard with the red façade.QJ-4, Tržaška 24, tel. +386 (0)5 9020 452/+386 (0)41 874 400, fax +386 (0)5 9060 012, info@ martastudio.eu, www.martastudio.eu. (3 studios €60, 1 apartment €137). TA6L ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Old Town Rooms and Apartments These newly opened rooms and apartments in a renovated house along the Ljubljanica allow guests to both enjoy an authentic old town experience, while also having the comfort of modern accommodation - all just steps from Prešeren Square, Dragon Bridge and all the other sights in Ljubljana’s medieval centre. All units are bright and airy with wooden furnishings, heated ceramic tile floors, and modern necessities such as large flat screen TVs and wireless internet. The upstairs apartment offers a fullyequipped kitchen, cosy living room and dining area and a separate bedroom. Discounts are offered for longer stays.

QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 27a, tel. +386 (0)1 620 0851, info@old-town.si, www.old-town.si. Rooms from €50, apartments from €80. PJAW

Hostels AdHoc Hostel Despite the name, budget conscious travellers can rest assured that every aspect of this newly opened hostel has been thoroughly planned and executed - including all the small touches that backpackers are sure to appreciate, such as ample common space, plenty of showers and shelves for the top bunks. However, it’s the unbeatable location in the heart of the old town just below the castle and only steps from all the major sites (and popular nightlife venues) that makes AdHoc a winner. A total of 72-beds are spread across several floors and a combination of dorms and private rooms.QCankarjevo Nabrežje 27, tel. +386 (0)51 268 288, info@adhoc-hostel.com, www.adhoc-hostel.com. 8-bed dorm €16-20, private quadruple €17-23/person, private double €19-27/person. PJGW Ana Hostel These days it seems like hostels are popping up all over Ljubljana, and Ana is one of this new crop, which ticks the boxes for what we look for in a good hostel: cheap and clean with a central location. The hostel is well-kept and quiet, whilst the rooms (3- or 4-bed dorms with shared WCs) are bright and spacious with plenty of storage space.

Ana Hostel occupies a great city centre location, within walking distance to basically everything, and there is also a summer courtyard to chill out in.QD-2, Komenskega 10, tel. + 386 (0)1 292 7997, info@ana-hostel.com, www. ana-hostel.com. Dorms from €20. JGW Hostel Print In terms of accommodation, Print is actually more of a budget hotel as all accommodation is in single, double and triple rooms, which are fully furnished and even include fridges. Tasty home-made breakfasts are also included in the price and easily exceed what you get at most other budget options. However, the place still manages to maintain a laid back hostel vibe with several common areas and a huge terrace off the kitchen. QJ-4, Rožna Dolina IV/34, tel. +386 (0)51 387 111, info@hostelprint.com, www.hostelprint. com. 23 rooms (singles €24.99, doubles €19.99, triples €16.99, four bed €15.99). PTAR6LGXW facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Around Ljubljana Penzion na Klancu For those who’d like to avoid the bustle of the city centre, but still have easy access to sights and activities in Ljubljana, this 100 year-old but newly renovated guest house is perfectly situated in the town of Medvode some 11km from the capital. The spacious, smartly decorated rooms are complimented by an excellent restaurant, and the staff can recommend numerous activities and off the beaten path excursions in the surrounding countryside.QGorenjska 13, Medvode, tel. +386 (0)1 361 82 55/+386 (0)31 673 068, fax +386 (0)1 361 82 56, info@ naklancu.com, www.naklancu.com. Open 07:00:22:00.

13 rooms starting from €38. PALKW Pri Cesarju This charming little guesthouse offers cosy accommodation in the heart of medieval Kamnik, making it a great base for hikers in the summer and skiers in the winter, or those who’d like to enjoy a relaxing stay outside of the capital in any season. The large rooms come in several different sizes, all of which boast modern furnishings, refrigerators, LCD televisions and lots of wood from floor to ceiling. Two of the rooms also have balconies with views towards the majestic Kamnik-Savinja Alps.

QTunjiška 1, Kamnik, tel. +386 (0)41 629 846, info@cesarskidvor.si, www.pricesarju.si. 11 rooms (singles €36, doubles €48-58, family rooms €74-92). Breakfast €4 per person.

PTJLW February - March 2014

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Where to eat

Where to eat SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted B Outside seating

6 Pet-friendly

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

V Home delivery

L Guarded parking

S Takeaway

J Old town location

I Fireplace

W Wifi

Ljubljana’s restaurant scene continues to flourish with new and more exotic offerings opening all the time. Be sure to sample some local cuisine when in town, and do get yourself outside at least one legendary kremšnita cream cake, which can be found in abundance throughout the city (although Bled is considered to the spiritual home of this sticky, gooey delight).

Those not in town for its culinary excellence and who plan to do plenty of walking will be pleased to discover that almost every street has at least one burek and pizza place on it. Eating on the hoof in Ljubljana is a treat not to be missed.

Asian Beli Labod Located a short walk east of the train station, don’t be put off by the fact that the sign outside advertisers both a Chinese restaurant and pizzeria, as the latter is an innocent remnant of the former occupant. Quite fittingly for a place called Beli Labod (Slovene for White Swan), the inner beauty here shines through, with excellent food and genuinely friendly service. There’s also a huge sunny terrace out front and free parking in the back. Among the many house specialties the so-called ‘hot plates’ stand out, since it’s a well-known fact that food just tastes better when it’s served on a sizzling iron dish. A second location is at Bizantova 22 in Medvode.QF-1, Masarykova 21, tel. +386 (0)30 318 377/+386 (0)64 198 748, info@beli-labod.com, www.beli-labod.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. PTJALB Maru Tucked away in the northwest corner of the city amongst the green spaces and residential streets of the Šiška neighbourhood, this excellent Japanese restaurant makes the most of its surroundings with two spacious yet intimate terraces overlooking the park opposite, while the minimalist interior has an equally tranquil ambience. With a kitchen run under the watchful eye of Japanese chef Yoshihiko, in addition to a selection of expertly prepared classic sushi dishes, the menu features mouthwatering main courses such as baked Barbarie duck and grilled white fish - all of which goes great with the house wine from Ščurek, one of Slovenia’s top producers.QJ-2, Vodnikova 155, tel. +386 (0)30 200 222, restavracija.maru@gmail.com, www. maru.si. Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PALB 24 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

CHINESE RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA Masarykova 21, 1000 Ljubljana 00 386 (0) 30 318 377

Moysushi The prospect of a reasonably priced sushi bar in the heart of the old town had us well and truly excited when we first heard about it. Call us crazy, but there’s just something fun about snatching colour-coded plates of raw fish and other morsels from a conveyor belt in a futuristic faux-Japanese setting! It’s also nice to know that their head chef is actually from Japan.

While we prefer to linger over several bottles of sake and perhaps order a main dish or two off the á la carte menu, the setup makes for a quick lunchtime option and prepared takeaway boxes are also available - chopsticks optional.QD-4, Mestni Trg 17, tel. +386 (0)59 93 55 40, www.moysushi.com. Open Mon-Wed 10:30-22:00, Thur-Sat 10:30-23:00, Sun 10:3017:00. (Plates €1.90-3.70, mains €5-10). PJABS Shambala Not only does Shambala’s kitchen turn out some of the best (and spiciest) Asian cuisine in Slovenia, but the tranquil, almost meditative, ambience of the place allows you to enjoy your meal in a state of perfect relaxation - with some of the best service in town thrown in as an added benefit. During the warmer months, diners can also take advantage of the pleasant little garden that is tucked away in one of the build-

One of a kind! 120 years of tradition 120 years or premium quality ...........................................................

Opening time- Every day 11:00-23:00 phone +386 (0)1 251 34 46 www.gostilna-cad.si

ings inner courtyards. Situated down a narrow alleyway off Breg, this hidden gem is definitely worth finding.QC-4, Križevniška 12, tel. +386 (0)1 4 26 30 14/+386 (0)31 843 833, info@shambala.si, www.shambala.si. Open 12:00 24:00. Closed Sun. (€3.50-9.50). PTJAGBK

Balkan Gostilna Čad When you ask locals to name there favourite Balkan restaurant in Ljubljana, Čad is one of the most frequently heard answers. Situated by Rožnik Hill around corner from Tivoli Park, it’s also the longest-running restaurant of its kind in town, and guests can dine in the shady garden surrounded by nature or in the rustic homey interior. Specialising in spit and grilled dishes, the beefsteaks, grilled peppers and raznjici skewers all come highly recommended.QJ-3, Cesta Na Rožnik 18, tel. +386 (0)1 251 34 46, info@gostilnacad.si, www.gostilna-cad.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (€5-15).

PTJAUILEGBXSW

There’s an excellent selection of wine to go with some of the city’s best Asian cuisine at Shambala in the old town

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Gostilna Dubočica Located in the Moste neighbourhood of Ljubljana a short walk, drive or bike ride east of the hospital, once you cross the railway tracks it’s easy to think you’ve arrived in some quaint countryside village. The restaurant itself is housed in a more than century-old house, and was one of the first places in Ljubljana that served authentic homecooked Serbian cuisine. Be sure to try at least one dish off the mouth-watering (and meat-heavy) House Specialities facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

menu - you won’t be disappointed.QL-4, Zaloška 31, tel. +386 (0)1 542 37 77/+386 (0)51 606 080, portalm@siol. net, www.dubocica.si. Open Sun-Thurs 11:00-23:00, Fri & Sat 11:00-01:00. (€3-20). PTAULGBSW Gostilna Gurman This is the place to head for authentic Serbian food in Trnovo. You’ll think you were in Belgrade with all the grilled meat they pile on your table - čevapi, pleskavica, pork medallions, chicken skewers - along with ample helpings of kajmak, ajvar and šopska salata. The house specialities are great too, especially the steak negoš, which comes stuffed with bacon, cheese and ham, and if you can’t decide what to order there are several combination platters that will let you taste a bit of everything.QK-5, Cesta na Loko 28, tel. +386 (0)1 283 88 33/+386 (0)31 661 501, www. gurmanmomo.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (€5.50-12).

Gostilnica Rio-Momo Situated between the central post office and Kongresni Trg on the city’s main thoroughfare, we’ve never found the exterior to be the most inviting but once you get inside it’s actually quite warm and cosy. The thick leather covers on the menus portend the ample selection of grilled meat dishes within, although vegetarians have a handful of a pastas and salads to choose from as well. On your way in don’t forget to check the table outside for flyers entitling you to a free glass of wine.QC-3, Slovenska 28, tel. +386 (0)31 751 751/+386 (0)14 25 32 26, portalm@siol.net, www.riomomo.si.

Open 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-19). PTJAUSW February - March 2014

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Where to eat

Where to eat

party &

Zaloška cesta 110, 1000 Ljubljana

Gostišče Portal Step into this cavernous old gostilna or stay out on the terrace and watch the river flow by at this great restaurant tucked away from the traffic. While they offer pizzas and pastas, the parking lot stays full with people here for real grilled Serbian food, and those options abound. They also have a long list of good Slovenian wines to drink alongside.

Several rooms are also available for hire.QM-4, Zaloška 110, tel. +386 (0)1 540 01 66, portalm@siol.net, www. portal-m.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (€7-20). PTAULEGBXSW Saraj Ljubljana is not lacking in Balkan restaurants, but the newly opened Saraj is one of very few that take a bit more refined approach to the cuisine, with a noticeably upscale atmosphere. Head chef Nihad Mameledžija, whose cookbook is proudly displayed on the front counter, watches over a menu of traditional Bosnian favourites with a wide selection of both hot and cold starters, main courses and desserts. In addition to the standard čevapčiči and pljeskavica (made from 100 per cent beef), there are lots of lamb dishes, soups and more. Multi-course daily specials start from only €8.QF2, Bohoričeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 234 04 22. Open 10:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. PJALBS

Buffet If you’ve just read the entire restaurant section of this guide and you still haven’t been served, stay calm, collect your 26 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

belongings and pop into somewhere where the food is served piping hot, and straight from metal containers.

Restaurant 2000 A vast underground filling station for budget-conscious city slickers such as construction workers, Korean businessmen and of course the obligatory sprinkling of students. Grab a tray, throw on some meat, mashed potato, rice, salad, whatever, don’t forget to pick up a soft drink, pay and eat. The food isn’t going to win any awards, but it’s more than good enough especially for the price. Find it deep inside the bowels of Maxi Market.QC-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. +386 (0)5 128 53 34, www.maxi.si/si/restavracija-2000/. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. (€5-7). PJGBSW

International

Burek

Argentino The journey out to BTC is well worth the effort, for Argentino really needs to be experienced to be believed. Huge and based on a classic Argentinean hacienda on two levels with further seating outside, the interior designer had a great time thinking this one up. Featuring vast paintings, enormous mirrors, video projectors, a fabulous bar and an even lovelier open kitchen, which turns out a dizzying array of mouth-watering Latin American dishes including some of the best steaks in Ljubljana. There’s also an excellent wine cellar with some 130 different Argentinean wines.QM-3, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. +386 (0)1 523 36 30, info@ argentino.si, www.argentino.si. Open 09:00 - 23:00, FriSat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun and holidays 12:00 - 17:00. (€5.2045). PTAR6UILGBXSW

Burek is the universal and ubiquitous Balkan snack that simply has to be tried when you’re in the region. From the Turkish word bur, meaning to twist, burek comes in all manner of shapes and sizes but are essentially a baked filo pastry snack with a savoury filling, usually flavoured minced beef, cheese and/or spinach, best enjoyed with the addition of lashings of plain yoghurt.

Burek can be found ready to eat, cheap and piping hot in bakeries and speciality places operating out of little more than an open window, especially around the bus station. Variations on the burek theme can be found as far and wide as Israel, where they have the burekas, and even in Lithuania where they eat something not unlike a burek that they call a čeburekai. Enjoy.

Bistro Located in the heart of Ljubljana’s city centre on Kongresni Trg, and Zvezda Park (and conveniently above a shiny new subterranean parking garage), Bistro is fine place to both dine and people watch. While the restaurant is minimalist in décor, its menu of gourmet lunches and light snacks are nothing if not decadent, and its sophisticated wine list is complimented by an ample selection of cocktails for those wishing to drop by for an after work or late night tipple.

QC-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 90 91, www. zvezdaljubljana.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00.

Closed Sun. JAS Gostilna As One of Slovenia’s first truly world class restaurants when it opened its doors in the centre of Ljubljana more than a quarter century ago, in the years since it hasn’t missed a beat, still serving some of the very best Mediterraneaninspired cuisine in the city. For us the true standouts on the menu are the fantastic seafood specialties (both starters and main courses), but you also can’t go wrong with the steaks, grilled to order on an open-fire. When in doubt, you can rely on the friendly and professional staff for recommendations, as well as guidance with the equally superb wine list. A must for lovers of extravagant

Indian Namasté Set along the beautifully redeveloped Breg riverside walk in the old town, Namasté is the longest running Indian restaurant in all of Slovenia, and offers one of Ljubljana’s most romantic dining experiences of any flavour - with soft yellow hued lighting, hand-painted walls and a relaxed cosy atmosphere.

The house specialties are dishes from the Rajastan and Punjab regions, which are prepared individually with spices directly imported from the subcontinent and can be ordered mild to extra hot.QC/D-4, Breg 8, tel. +386 (0)14 25 01 59, fax +386 (0)1 236 20 27, info@restavracija-namaste.si, www. restavracija-namaste.si. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 22:00. (€5-21). PTJA6UGBXS ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Nobel Burek A small kiosk close to the train and bus stations churning out steaming hot burek as well as pizza for those who like to do their fine dining in the street. Excellent value, excellent burek.QD-2, Miklošičeva 30, tel. +386 (0)12 32 33 92. Open 24hrs. (€2). J6UXS Olimpija Not one of our personal favourites, but judging by the crowds milling about outside around the clock we’re in the minority. It was also the runaway winner of our online poll.

The servings are huge and always hot, with four varieties of pie to choose from: cheese, meat, apple and pizza - the latter being the overwhelming favourite among customers. Just around the corner from Bavarski Dvor.QD-2, Slovenska 58. Open 00:00 - 24:00. €2. JNXS dining!QC-3, Čopova 5a (Knafljev Prehod), tel. +386 (0)1 425 88 22, gostilna.as@siol.net, www.gostilnaas. si. Open 12:00 - 01:00. PJAGB Hotel Cubo Restaurant For fine modern dining right in the heart of the city centre, look no further than the ground floor of Hotel Cubo.

Just steps away from some of Ljubljana’s top cultural venues (Cankarjev Dom, Drama Theatre and the Slovenian Philharmonic) Cubo is a popular choice for a pre- or post-performance dinner. The tranquil interior and professional service also makes it a common destination for important business lunches, while gourmet cuisine is creatively prepared with the freshest ingredients, and complimented by an exquisite wine list. Free kerbside valet service and shuttles for groups of four or more guests are added bonuses.QC-4, Slovenska 15, tel. +386 (0)1 425 60 30, www.hotelcubo.com. PJALW

Many more restaurants ljubljana.inyourpocket.com Enjoy huge helpings of hearty Bosnian cuisine at Saraj

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Where to eat Latin American New Rodizio do Brasil Slovenia’s first Brazilian restaurant has quickly became one of Ljubljana’s top dining destinations since it opened in December. Modelled after Brazil’s traditional rodízio style steakhouse restaurants, patrons pay a fixed price for unlimited quantities of high quality grilled meat that is brought to the table on large skewers hot from the grill and accompanied by a huge selection of hot and cold dishes from the buffet (many of which are even vegetarian). For the full on Brazilian experience come on a night when there’s a dance performance and order a few extra rounds of Caipirinhas - just make sure to reserve a table in advance.QTrg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 1, tel. +386 (0)40 316 341/+386 (0)31 250 247, info@brasil.si, www.brasil. si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. PJAEB

Harfa It may be a bit out of the way, but Harfa is one of Ljubljana’s finest restaurants and well worth seeking out. Trained by acclaimed Slovenian Chef Janez Bratovž, Chef Boštjan Pavli masterfully balances flavours using stunningly fresh produce to create delicious dishes, such as garlic soup with lobster and scallops and homemade chanterelle ravioli. On offer are two styles of dining, casual lunch menus as well as more refined four-course business lunches; menus change daily and feature fish, meat and vegetarian options. Complementing the food is a fantastic wine list, whilst the service is also excellent.

QJ-5, Koprska 98, tel. +386 (0)1 423 24 11/+386 (0)41 858 033, info@harfa-restavracija.si, www.harfa-restavracija.si.

Open . Closed Sat, Sun Open 10:30-17:00 and in the evenings by prior arrangement. Closed Sat-Sun. PAL JB Firmly entrenched as one of the best restaurants in town, this fine dining experience comes courtesy of founder and head chef Janez Bratovž (hence the name). Located in one of Jože Plečnik’s more imposing secessionist-style buildings, JB attracts a mix of well-to-do locals and visiting businessmen - guaranteeing you the chance to eavesdrop on conversations in a variety of languages. The menu is comprised entirely of seasonal specialities and changes daily, with exotic offerings such as bear meat appearing from time to time. The only downside is the price, easily topping €50 per person for a proper meal with wine.QD1, Miklošičeva 17, tel. +386 (0)14 33 13 58/+386 (0)14 74 72 19, janez.bratovz@siol.net, www.jb-slo.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJA

Where to eat small yet varied menu include the large and tasty salads, delicious pastas and some truly memorable meat and fish dishes.

Be warned though, the place is immensely popular, and waiting for a table during the day is a common occurrence.QD-4, Stari Trg 9, tel. +386 (0)8 380 66 10/+386 (0)40 564 188, info@marleyandme.si, www.marleyandme.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (€3-22). €€. PJA6UGBXSW Maxim In the heart of the city centre this modern, business-orientated restaurant provides a fine menu of dishes including duck breast with mashed potatoes, soups, seafood, and a galaxy of fabulous puddings. There’s a huge wine list too, and a nice terraced area complete with water features for quality outdoor summer dining. Popular with professional locals and foreigners alike.QC-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. +386 (0)51 28 53 35, maxim@mercator.si, www.maxi.si.

Open 12:00-23:00 Mon-Fri, and Sat by prior agreement.

Closed Sun. (€19 and more). PJALGBS Plato Located right in the centre of town next to one of Ljubljana’s most recognisable modern buildings - a twisting white office tower that takes some interesting architectural liberties - this restaurant is something of an oasis above the bustling square below. The lunch-time only menu is international with a focus on light and healthy Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and can change daily depending on what is in season or just especially fresh that day at local markets. If you’re not too keen on the day’s set menus you can also order à la carte.QC-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. +386 (0)1230 84 80, plato@ siol.net, plato.si. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sun. (€4.5 - 22). PTJAGBXSW Plaza Hotel Restaurant The hotel restaurant at the magnificent towering Plaza Hotel in BTC is an expectedly resplendent affair, befitting of its four-star home and largely business clientele. The menu is short and focussed, ensuring freshness while also offering enough variety to satisfy most tastes. Dishes include Slovene specialities (such as Idrija’s famed žlikrofi and various homemade cured meats), as well as international standards.QM-3, Bratislava 8, tel. +386 (0)1 243 00 00, info@plazahotel.si, www.plazahotel. si. Open for dinner 19:00-22:00. PALW Pri Levu When the world-class Hotel Lev was constructed in 1964, it was built on the site of what had been a well-known local restaurant called Pri Levu. In 2009, the restaurant was

finally reopened (or at least re-imagined) within the hotel itself, and has since become one of the city’s top spots to dine. The wine list is also one of the most impressive around, as are the beautifully presented desserts, while the ambience is decidedly elegant without being pretentious.QC-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. +386 (0)1 432 70 89, fax +386 (0)1 230 25 78, info@prilevu.si, www.prilevu.si.

Open 11:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PJA Smrekarjev Hram Another of Ljubljana’s upscale eateries, Smrekarjev Hram features a wide menu and a long wine list. Make sure you leave room for a main and a dessert, where you can select from a range of fish or meat dishes such as grilled sea bass or beef in goose liver sauce, finishing off with raspberry pie or baked fig with vanilla ice-cream. The elegant interior of Smrekarjev Hram is offset by the funky multi-colored straw sculptures which add a touch of fun to somewhere with more than a touch of class.QD-3, Nazorjeva 2, tel. +386 (0)1 308 19 75, smrekarjev.hram@gh-union.si, www.gh-union.si. Open 12:00 - 23:00. PTJA6ULEGBSW Sputnik Cosmic Caffe Modern and trendy, yet welcoming and unpretentious, Sputnik may be more known as a nightlife venue for Ljubljana’s up and coming elite, but during the day it’s a popular breakfast and lunch time stop for out-of-town businessmen, white collar workers with offices nearby, and even the odd student who appreciates a subtle ambiance. The menu changes daily, but it tends to lean towards lighter Mediterranean fare with pastas, soups,

Marley & Me Acres of stripped pine, friendly professional service and one of the best kitchen smells in the city, this intimate bistro-type restaurant is comes highly recommended. Standouts from the 28 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

One of the most typical Slovene dishes, Štruklji is most often filled with cottage cheese and topped with butter and breadcrumbs, photo courtesy of Bled Tourism

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salads and the like. One of the warm breakfasts accompanied by a strong espresso is a great way to start a day.QJ-5, Tržaška 128, tel. +386 (0)1 42 32 372, dobrodosli@sputnik.si, www. sputnik.si. Open Mon-Thur 06:30-24:00, Fri 06:30-02:00, Sat 08:00-02:00 and Sun 09:00-22:00. PALEBW Za Pumpo The creatively named Za Pumpo, which means ‘behind the gas station’, is located (surprisingly) behind a petrol station in the vicinity of several university faculties, and consistently tasty food, generous portions and low prices make it a popular choice with students and other locals alike. The huge menu has something for everyone including Balkan and Italian classics as well as hearty Slovene dishes, all complimented by a fine selection of quality Slovenia wines.

There are also some good looking breakfast offerings.QJ-4, Tržaška 46, tel. +386 (0)41 777 772, zapumpo@siol.net.

Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

Mediterranean Allegria Tucked away in a courtyard behind a large terrace, this long-running Ljubljana eatery prepares exemplary Mediterranean cuisine, with an emphasis on dishes from Slovenia’s coastal regions.

Seasonal specials are regularly offered, and the entire menu is naturally complimented by an excellent wine list. The steaks and homemade gnocchi are among our favourite dishes, but for something really unique try the Kraški risotto, which is made using Jamar sir (a cheese aged in a cave 70m underground).

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Where to eat QC-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 74 02, info@allegria. si, www.allegria.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€7-19). PTJA6UEGBSW New TaBar This ultra-modern new concept restaurant and bar combines Slovenian-style tapas with an excellent selection of wines from some of the country’s top producers. The menu has a strong Mediterranean influence, featuring everything from tender prosciutto and salami to roasted octopus and baked shrimp - all prepared with fresh local ingredients in an open kitchen, where you can watch the magic happen if you’re lucky enough to find an open seat.

For those adverse to making decisions, there are threeand five-course tasting menus selected by the chef (our preferred option), while many patrons simply drop in to sample a few glasses of wine.QD-3, Ribji Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)31 764 063, info@tabar.si, www.tabar.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Pizza Foculus Magnificently decorated once you’re through the slightly out of place automatic doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted ceilings and red, yellow and orange plates built into the roof of the large wood-fired pizza oven.

The large and busy Foculus specialises in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for vegetarians and eight with seafood.

The salads are also particularly good. The place can get rather hectic in the evenings, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait a few minutes for a table. It was also recently named Best Pizzeria in Ljubljana by IYP readers.QC-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 92 95, foculus@siol. net, www.picerija.net/foculus.htm. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (€5.70-8.40). PTJAUGBS Parma A quirky little one, this. As well as a couple of ordinary tables, most dining here is done at the large bar from where the food is cooked and served. Find an empty stool, make your order and away you go. And while you’re waiting for your pizza to arrive, take a look at the large photographs on the wall of the construction of the area you’re eating in. Find it hidden away down the stairs and on the right at the southern end of Maxi Market.QB/C4, Trg Republike 2, tel. +386 (0)1426 82 22, foculus@ siol.net, www.picerija.net/parma.htm. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€3.90-6.20 TJA6ULGBXSW Pizzeria Osmica Located on the pedestrian street that runs parallel to Čopova, Osmica is essentially the pizza annex of the longer-running Allegria in the courtyard around the corner. The menu boasts over two dozen pizzas, and several choice of salad, lasagna and tortillas are also on offer in the comfortable rustic setting - think lots of wood and ex30 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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ribji trg 6 l 1000 ljubljana

+ 386 l 0 l 31 764 063

TaBar_124x41.indd 1 posed stone with an open kitchen. We stop by for lunch or grab a pizza to go on the way home quite often, but if we were forced to choose a favourite it’d have to be the Tartufo, which comes heaped with prosciutto, salami, parmesan and of course truffle oil.QC-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 58 72, info@osmica.si, www.osmica.si.

Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€5.50-8.30). PTJA6UBSW

Quick Eats New Burrito Loco The concept of this newly opened Mexican takeaway in the centre of town will be immediately familiar to anyone who has eaten at one of the widely popular Chipotle Mexican Grills whilst in the United States, namely, huge mission-style burritos prepared to order with your choice of fresh ingredients. The menu also includes quesadillas, soft tacos and salads, but for us the real standout here is the pulled pork burrito with guacamole. If you like what you taste, ask for a stamp card - collect ten stamps and the eleventh burrito is free.QC-4, Slovenska 6, tel. +386 (0)31 897 694, www.facebook.com/burritolocoLJ. Open 10:00 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. €. JNS Falafel A tiny little place churning out delicious falafel-based delicacies plus the usual array of pizzas and burgers. An excellent choice for vegetarians on the move, expect long queues during the busy lunchtime period.QE-3, Trubarjeva 40/+386 (0)41 64 01 66, www.alja-shaar. com/falafel.htm. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (€1-7). JA6UVGS

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also be opening soon.QB-2, Tivoli Park, tel. +386 (0)1 5 21 14 27, master@hot-horse.si, www.hot-horse.si. Open 09:00 - 06:00. (€1.50-5.50). J6UBXS Klobasarna It’s not often you find a restaurant where the menu consists largely of one item, but when the famed Kranjska Klobasa is the dish in question then that’s really all you need. Taking its name from the city of Kranj, this hearty sausage was at the centre of so-called ‘klobasa wars’ between Slovenia and Austria (and later Croatia) over the rights to the EUprotected name. History and politics aside, this trendy takeaway opposite the Cathedral is the best place to taste what all the ado is about. They also serve the traditional Slovene dishes jota and ričet, hearty stew-like dishes that go great with the famed sausage.QCiril-Metodov 15, tel. +386 (0)51 605 017, info@klobasarna.si, www.klobasarna.si.

Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JS Pohan Pšan’c Ljubljana’s most popular takeaway fried chicken joint has moved to a prime new location in the old town, and now offers a proper sit-down dining experience with a large terrace in a leafy corner of Levstik Square. The extremely focussed menu offers just a few options, most of which only require deciding how many pieces of breaded chicken you can eat, although some tasty ciabatta sandwiches and chicken Wiener schnitzel are also available. Everything is cooked in a special pressurised deep fryer, meaning 90% less fat than traditional methods, with even more taste and exceptionally juicy meat.QD-4/5, Levstik Trg, tel. +386 (0)41 309 609, gastrohit@gmail.com, www.pohanpsanc.si. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. TJAVS

Hot Horse A true Ljubljana institution, a stop at Hot Horse is a must for all first-time and returning visitors. The legendary horseburger is not only an original Slovenian creation, but is also healthy, low in fat and rich in protein and iron, and the menu now boasts a wider variety than ever before, including wraps, steaks and hot dogs, all of which come with your choice of toppings and condiments. Hot Horse was also twice selected by our readers as the Best Fast Food restaurant in Ljubjana. Visit their large modern kiosk near the arena in Tivoli Park, or their second outlet in BTC, while a third location in Rudnik near Rutar will facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

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Where to eat Surf’n’Fries We recently began noticing people carrying around boxes of fries (or chips as we would say) in the city centre, and it turns out that this place is the culprit. We’re still not sure where the ‘surf’ part of the name comes in (as seafood is not on the menu), but they do offer heaping portions of fries prepare in a variety of ways and accompanied by a selection of sauces, as well as some deep fried chicken dishes to satisfy the non-vegetarians. Open late, because everything fried tastes better after a night of drinking.QC-3, Plečnikov Trg. Open 06:00 - 04:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. €2.10-4.50. Žak Located under the hulking Ajdovščina building just off a busy crossroads, this French-style bakery whips up tasty snacks that, judging by the constant lines, tempt a fair number of workers from the surrounding offices to extend their smoke breaks. Their freshly-prepared viennoiseries, gourmet bread, sandwiches and salads cost slightly more than the pre-packaged brands found in all the supermarkets, but are well-worth the premium. There’s also a second location at Njegoševa 6 near the hospital.QC-2, Dalmatinova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 74, fs-lj@siol.net, www.pekarna-zak.si.

Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. €0.50 - 3.00. JS

Slovenian In a way, there’s no such thing as Slovenian food - with sheep and cows on its mountain pastures giving meat and milk products, the Mediterranean providing fresh seafood, and with influences from the Balkans, Austria and Italy, you might as well call it world cuisine. One thing that is unique is the gostilna, the traditional, rustic, family-owned Slovenian inn providing affordable and honest homemade food that would make your granny grin.

Aroma Located in the city’s oldest house, dating from 1528, this newly opened restaurant has already become a popular choice for visitors to Ljubljana. Aroma has a diverse menu offering traditional Slovene dishes as well as almost anything else you might fancy - from steaks and pizzas to salads and desserts - as well as a good selection of quality Slovene wines. Breakfast specials look good too. Almost as hard as choosing what to order is deciding whether to sit inside under the beautiful vaulted ceilings or outside in prime position besides the Ljubljanica river.

QD-3, Ribji Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)31 30 70 30, www.aromaljubljana.si. Open 08:00 - 24:00. PJABW

the delightful cobbled pavement outside.QD-4, Stari trg 21, tel. +386 (0)82 05 25 06, druga.violina@center-db.si.

Open 07:00 - 24:00. PJAUBW Gostilna Gorjanc With over two centuries of tradition (it was officially opened for business in 1813), Gorjanc is one of the longest running traditional Slovenian restaurants around Ljubljana, but at the same time it’s also one of the newest, as it underwent extensive restoration and modernisation at the same time the G Design Hotel was built next door. Along with the standard hearty Slovenian fare, such as blood sausages and sauerkraut with pork fat cracklings, the menu makes room for various refined fish, pastas, salads and other gourmet dishes. On weekdays there are lunch specials on offer that can be seen in advance on their website.QH-5, Tržaška 330, tel. +386 (0)1 423 11 11, info@gdesignhotel.si, www.gdesignhotel.si. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. PTALW

Druga Violina Good locally grown produce, a simple short menu of Slovene classics, top location in the city’s old town, but there’s a twist in the tale with the ‘other violin’ (as the English translation of the name goes). It’s actually a project for people with special needs, who produce much of the food on farmland near Ljubljana and also work as waiting staff in the restaurant itself. Come and see what it’s all about, while enjoying one of the fresh local dishes either in the rustic dining room or on 32 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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Gostilnica Rimska XXI With its low arched ceilings, moody red walls and touch of rustic furnishings this homey low-key restaurant has already become one of our favourite places to come when we’re in the mood for traditional Slovene cuisine it a great setting.

Fresh homemade dishes of all sorts are are the speciality here, including deer, fish and wood-baked meats, and the menu

Catering Glažuta One of Slovenia’s top catering companies, Glažuta offers gourmet food and professional service for virtually any type of event imaginable: from small intimate dinners for less than a dozen people to major events with a thousand or more guests. Everything is aesthetically prepared using carefully selected ingredients, and the right combination of extravagance and practicality. Specialty menus (such as gluten-free or international cuisine) can be ordered, and services range from breakfasts and standing cocktail banquets to served lunch and dinner, as well as packaged meals for guests on the go. In addition to catering, Glažuta also operates a trendy self-service restaurant with good-value lunches and a lounge bar in the north of the city.QL-2, Dunajska 119, tel. +386 (0)1 565 43 26/+386 (0)31 357 751, info@glazuta.com, www. glazuta.com.

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changes daily depending on the season and whims of the head chef. Even the beer, juice and brandy is homemade, and there’s also an excellent selection of Slovene wines.QB-4, Rimska 21, tel. +386 (0)1 256 56 54, gostilnica.xxi@gmail. com, www.r-g.si/xxi. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sun. (€6-20). PTJA6IB

Where to eat

here to enjoy a coffee, sweets or light snack.QC/D-5, Eipprova 1a, tel. +386 (0)5 992 23 08, info@kulinarika-manna.si, www.kulinarika-manna.si. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed 08:00 24:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00 Holidays 08:00-22:00. (€5-20). PTJA6UGBS

Güjžina Voted by our readers as the best Slovenian restaurant in Ljubljana for 2013, Güjžina offers traditional cuisine from the region of Prekmurje, which is situated in the far northeastern corner of the country and heavily influenced by neighbouring Hungary, Austria and Croatia. One of the most typical dishes is the award-winning bograč, a thick meaty stew that comes served in a large copper kettle, while the multi-layered cake known as gibanica is easily the best in the city and an absolute must for dessert. Check the chalkboard or ask your waiter for the daily specials.QD-4, Mestni Trg 19, tel. +386 (0)8 380 64 46, info@prekmurska-gostilna.si, www.prekmurskagostilna.si. Open 08:00 - 24:00. PJAB

Hiša Slovenskih Domačih Jedi Pomf Just around the corner from Ljubljana’s famous Dragon Bridge, this place is refreshingly the opposite of a tourist trap: preparing high-quality authentic Slovene cuisine at reasonable prices. It also has a cosy unassuming cosy interior that is much larger than it looks from the street, and includes a separate dining area in the cellar with an exposed brick vaulted ceiling - a perfect retreat for couples. There’s even live music in the evenings. Of course it’s the food that brings people here, and the house specialities include game goulash (with deer and wild boar), bograč and jota (classic Slovene stews), various grilled dishes and something called Emperor’s fingers.QTrubarjeva 40, tel. +386 (0)40 727 919, Hisa.Okusov.

Ljubljana@gmail.com. Open 12:00-24:00. €3.50-11.50.

Hiša Kulinarike Manna Set in a colourful little house on one of Ljubljana’s prettiest (and most overlooked) streets, Manna offers a divine selection of contemporary Slovene cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Meals are complimented with some tasty homemade desserts and large choice of both Slovene and foreign wines, as well as a sophisticated selection of spirits (aged rums, cognacs and whiskeys) and cigars for after dinner. A large garden and terrace in the back is open all year, and many people come

Jelen Located in Šiška some 5km from the city centre, this guest house and restaurant has been serving locals and tourists alike since 1878. There’s a full menu of traditional Slovene dishes as well as an assortment of tasty Balkan-style grilled meats and pizzas from a wood-fired oven. Upstairs there are five fully equipped modern rooms, which are convenient if you’ve got an early morning flight to catch or have just eaten (or drunk) too much to make it very far from the table.

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QCelovška 462, tel. +386 (0)1 5161 545, info@pensionjelen.eu, www.pension-jelen.eu. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. €3.80-16. PTAUBSW

where you can enjoy a quiet meal in the shade.QC-4, Rimska 4, tel. +386 (0)1 42 19 600, www.daj-dam.si. Open 09:00 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. JABW

Kuhinja Krušič Aside from the Euro, nothing has stirred up more disagreement amongst Europeans in recent years than horse meat Slovenia being one of the countries where people largely have no problem with horses finding there way onto kitchen tables.

Like-minded visitors in Ljubljana will thus surely want to add the family-run Krušič to their itinerary. Operating a butchery for over a century, it’s one of the country’s top suppliers of horse meat, which also dominates the menu in various different forms at the restaurant on the same premises. Various appetisers, stews, cured meats and of course steaks from horse are on offer here, all of which can be enjoyed in the charming little dining room or taken away.QL-3, Bezenškova 11, tel. +386 (0)1 544 61 41, info@mesarstvo-krusic.si, www.mesarstvokrusic.si. Open 08:00-16:00 Mon-Wed, 08:00-22:00 ThurFri. Closed Sat-Sun and holidays. LS

Skriti Kot If you want to eat like a local, Skriti Kot (or the Hidden Corner) is a good place to start. Popular with suits and students alike, this family-owned subterranean restaurant serves up hearty lunches. On offer is a varied menu with pastas prominent as well as excellent Slovene dishes, whilst the daily menus are a great value, and for vegetarians there is a wide range of meatless dishes and perhaps the best salad bar in town. Located in the Ajdovščina underpass it may be a bit tricky to find, but is well worth seeking out.QC-3, Ajdovščina 4, tel. +386 (0)1 430 22 06, info@ restavracija-skritikot.si, www.skritikot.com. Open 10:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PTA6UGBXSW

Pri Mraku In the business of serving simple honest meals to hungry travellers and loyal local customers for more than a century and a half, this family-run restaurant can be found in the guesthouse of the same name in Ljubljana’s old town. With a large menu of Slovene and central European dishes, an ample selection of wines and a bit of old-fashioned charm, it’s an excellent place to get an authentic taste of Slovenia. During the warmer months the top draw is the vine-covered inner courtyard,

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Stari Tišler Only a short walk from the main train station - in the direction of the moustachioed General Meister atop his trusty steed - Old Tišler’s has been serving up traditional Slovene cuisine for over a century. They specialise in hearty soups, stews and goulashes, which means it’s a good place to try bograč, a Slovene favourite that is essentially a bowl of meat masquerading as stew. Daily lunch specials are a good value starting at €5, and there are also half dozen rooms available upstairs if you’re looking for a place to stay.QD-2, Kolodvorska 8, tel. +386 (0)1 430 33 70, info@stari-tisler.com, www.stari-tisler. com. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. (€5-15).

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Where to eat gredients sourced from local markets, farmers and forests. We also like to stop by for breakfast when we get the chance, as the international atmosphere gives us the feeling of being on holiday.QD-4, Krojaška 6-8, tel. +386 (0)1 200 9000, info@ vanderhotel.com, vanderhotel.com. Open Mon-Sat 07:0011:00 (breakfast), 12:00-15:00 (lunch), 19:00-23:00 (dinner).

PJAEW

Sample traditional Slovene cuisine in the heart of the old town at Vodnikov Hram

Vodnikov Hram Named after Valentin Vodnik, who’s widely regarded as one of the first Slovene poets and journalists and also lends his name to the adjacent square, it’s one of the better known places to sample traditional Slovenian cuisine in Ljubljana. Dining under its vaulted brick ceilings is a recommended experience, as is grabbing a coffee or ice cream on the terrace while you’re waiting for the nearby funicular railway to ferry you up to the castle.QD/E-3, Vodnikov Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)12 34 52 60, vodnikov.hram@gmail.com, www.vodnikov-hram.si. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 24:00. (€4.5-24). PTAULGSW Vander Restaurant More than a hotel restaurant, Vander Urbani is a top destination for exquisite dining in Ljubljana’s old town. Head chef Benjemin Launay adds a modern touch to traditional Slovenian favourites, with dishes such as štruklji, jota and žlikrofi undergoing 21st century transformations that result in some truly delectable (and beautifully presented) cuisine. The so-called ‘deep dish’ lunch menu changes weekly, while the à la carte dinner menu is seasonal with only the freshest in-

Vegetarian Bazilika Bistro A Mecca for lovers of fresh, healthy, organic foods, Bazilika is located in a beautiful high-ceilinged space in the city centre opposite the Presidential Palace and just around the corner from the Academy of Fine Arts. While countless proprietors claim to use only fresh locally-sourced ingredients, Bazilika actually posts photos of daily visits to local farmers, markets and gardens to their social media pages, assuring patrons that the various sandwiches, sweet and savoury pies, salads, soups, smoothies and other vegetarian and vegan-friendly treats that they turn out are as authentic as they are delectable. Daily 3-course lunch specials are written on the roll of brown recycled paper behind the counter.QB-4, Prešernova 15, tel. +386 (0)1 244 62 75, druzina@bazilika.si, www.bazilika.s. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JABSW Govinda’s Tucked away in a quiet neighbourhood just north of the city centre, this oasis comes complete with a peaceful garden and is steeped in good karma. As well as being family friendly, students are looked after with generous portions, pregnant women get a 25% discount and its animal friendly aka vegetarian. The daily buffet features a range of

has a new “home” You can taste it from the end of September in Ljubljana market, under beautiful Plečnik Arcades.

Daily fresh and with contemporary recipe, the cake is made from traditional Slovenian ingredients. facebook.com\TortaLjubljana info@tortaljubljana.si +386 (0)41 272 433 / + 386 (0)30 300 618 Cake Ljubljana, Adamič Lundrovo nabrežje 1, Ljubljana

cuisines excellent Indian, and even meat-lovers NEWincluding HOME Cake Ljubljana oglas.indd 1 will enjoy the wholesome and delectable vegetarian (vegan & gluten free) delights.QŽibertova 23, tel. +386 (0)59 058 381, info@govindas.si, www.govindas.si. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. €2-9. PT New Loving Hut The world’s fastest growing (and perhaps only) international vegan fast food chain, Loving Hut has finally opened an outlet in the city centre two years after setting up a takeaway stand in Mestni Log. Located opposite the main bus and train station, stepping inside this oasis of peacefulness and serenity makes us feel healthier and more relaxed before we even order. Offering an assortment of vegan dishes, including a surprisingly delicious kebaps, burgers and Wiener schnitzel, Loving Hut is an attractive alternative to the usual fast food options found in these parts - even for non-vegans like us.QD-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 14, tel. +386 (0)68 126 970, lovinghutljubljana@gmail.com, www.lovinghut.si.

Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sat 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €.

Around Ljubljana Gostilna Ančka While it would be all but impossible to find a consensus choice for the label of Best Traditional Restaurant in Slovenia, Ančka is definitely one of the names on the short list.

Known first and foremost for its štruklji - a typical Slovenian dumpling - the menu is a veritable encyclopedia of heavy meat dishes, and the portions so large that taking home leftovers is all but guaranteed. Despite its popularity, it’s not the largest restaurant in Slovenia, so you’ll either need a reservation or lots of luck to get a table here at the weekends. Located well outside Ljubljana, it’s easy enough to find just down the road from the airport.QDelavska 18, Šenčur, tel. +386 (0)4 251 52 00, gostilna@ancka.si.

Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. (€6-16).

Gostilna Mihovec Only a short drive from Ljubljana, this family-run restaurant with more than a century and a half of tradition offers an unbeatable combination of excellent modern Slovene cuisine and genuine rural hospitality. Most of the ingredients are not only organic and locally-sourced, but come

Bazilika Bistro proves that healthy organic food can be quite tasty

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from the family’s own farm or from their neighbours, a fact 9/12/13 3:52 PM which led to Mihovec being one of the original members recognised under the Gostilna Slovenia brand. There is often live traditional music in the evenings, while we usually stop by for a long lunch at the weekends whenever we have the time.QZgornje Pirniče 54, Medvode, tel. +386 (0)1 362 30 60/+386 (0)31 684 434, gostilna.mihovec@ siol.net, www.mihovec.com. Open , Wed, Thu 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. TLEB Gostilna Skaručna Opened in the village of the same name just north of Ljubljana

by Slavko Žagar Sr back in 1975, to this day Skaručna has the reputation of satisfying each and every guest, which goes far beyond what is on the plates and in the glasses. The owner, Slavko Žagar Jr, is a jolly fellow and exceptional host, but also takes his cuisine very seriously. Fresh ingredients come directly from the nearby fields and forests, and even the wood that fires the open-air barbecue is carefully selected. In short, every meal at Skaručna is a unique, and often unforgettable, experience.QSkaručna 20, Vodice, tel. +386 (0)1 832 3080/+386 (0)40 799 810, gostilna@skarucna.si, www.skarucna.si.

Open 13:00-22:00. Closed Sun-Mon and holidays. Groups of 12 or more can make reservations for Sun with prior arrangement. A6ILB

Torta Ljubljana This takeaway cake shop in the Plečnik Arcade has much more to it than meets the eye. To begin with its eponymous Ljubljana Cake is the only sweet we know of in town that comes with its own creation myth, which involves a fickle lord living in Ljubljana Castle, a beautiful daughter waiting to be wed, and a plucky local chef who concocts the perfect recipe.

The retro-style cake has been recreated using only typical Slovenian ingredients (including gluten free 100% buckwheat flour) and can be purchased in several sizes, all of which come in custom designed reusable packaging. The cakes can now also be found at Kavarna SEM, Nebotičnik and Platana.QD-3, AdamičLundrovo Nabrežje 1, tel. +386 (0)30 300 618/+386 (0)41 272 433, info@tortaljubljana.si.

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Cafés

Cafés Kavarna in Slaščičarna Maxi The café and pastry shop on the ground floor of the Maxi Market shopping centre is one of the more regal places in town to enjoy some coffee and cake. It’s central location makes it a popular spot for meetings, and the proximity to the National Assembly, the headquarters of the country’s largest bank and various embassies guarantees that you’ll be rubbing elbows with some of Slovenia’s real power brokers.QC-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. +386 (0)5 128 53 42, slascicarna.maxi@mercator.si, www.maxi. si. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PAUBSW

Make the most of sunny winter days with a coffee outside along the banks of the Ljubljanica, photo by Michel Neven

Ljubljana’s café culture has always been one of our favourite things about the city. When the weather’s nice the entire old town is abuzz with activity at the pavement cafés that line nearly every street. During the colder months things move indoors, but thanks to the national smoking ban you’re still apt to find a fair amount of patrons outside huddled under heat lamps and blankets puffing away on coffee’s significant other.

The most popular places can be found along the Ljubljanica river on Cankarjevo Nabrežje and Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the opposite bank, but with so many options to choose from just wandering around until you find a place you fancy is never a bad option. And since the line between cafés, bars and pubs can sometime be less than obvious, we’ve included the latter on the pages below (and vice versa) if they’re somewhere you can comfortable get a coffee or tea during the day.

Bazilika Shop & Cafe Right next to the courthouse and in one the busiest areas of Ljubljana, this café is one of the closest things you’ll find to an oasis in the city. As soon as you enter, you feel how you leave the bustle, noise and grey of the city behind and are welcomed by very soothing music and décor. A great place to come and study, use your laptop or just surf the net. Try the excellent coffee and sandwiches. Great service too.QD-2, Miklošičeva 22, tel. +386 (0)41 530 539, druzina@bazilika.si, www.bazilika.si. Open 07:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PJSW Café Plato A stylish café offering a wide selection of great ice creams, cakes and tiny tarts in a unique glass-walled space right in the centre of town, its outdoor seating area is a fine place for some people watching on a sunny afternoon. There’s also a restaurant upstairs, so if you’re feeling like a bit more than a snack you may want to inquire about what’s on offer that day.QC-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 80, plato@siol.net, plato. si. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€2-3).

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Kavarna Tromostovje Here near Plečnik’s famed Tromostovje (Three Bridges), alongside the river, you can get a real feeling of the pulse of the city.This open-air café is blessed with perhaps the best location in the city and as such it seems to always be full with locals and tourists sitting with a coffee, enjoying great ice cream, soaking up local color, and sometimes even watching a daytime concert on the square.

QD-3, Prešernov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)1430 12 18, seam@ damajanty.com, www.damajanty.si. Open 08:00 01:00. TJ6UENBXSW Le Petit Café On a leafy yet bustling square, tables of bubbly locals and clued-up visitors drink coffee, tea and look utterly Parisian without even trying. Every other cafe in Ljubljana wants to be this place, and it is easy to see why. Also one of the only places in town to get a proper breakfast, while other light snacks (toasted sandwiches, etc) are served throughout the day.QC-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 4, tel. +386 (0)1 251 25 75/+386 (0)51 605 400, info@lepetit.si, www.lepetit.si. Open 07:30 - 01:00.

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Cacao If you like ice-cream, and who doesn’t, then this is your place. Along with the usual coffee, tea, wine and beer, Cacao serves up scoops of ice-cream which you can enjoy indoors or out on the terrace overlooking the river.

Fruit and ice-cream is around €5 a serving and if you want a bit of a kick with your cream, go for one of the alcohol-spiked varieties. There are also plenty of child-friendly shakes and servings available, as well as a mouthwatering selection of cakes and other desserts.QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 3, tel. +386 (0)1 430 17 71, info@cacao.si, www.cacao.si. Open 08:00 - 22:00 Summertime 08:00 - 00:00. PTJA6UGBSW ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Nebotičnik Café After being shuttered for nearly a decade, the best views in the city are once again open to the public. Occupying the top floor of Ljubljana’s famed Nebotičnik (or Skyscraper) building - which was the highest residential structure in Europe when it opened in 1933 - the terrace’s 360 degree views from the Alps to the castle to the hills in the south are truly breathtaking, and the coffee, cocktails and homemade cakes are worth trying as well. This is a must see stop for all visitors.QC-3, Štefanova 1, tel. +386 (0)40 60 17 87, info@neboticnik.si, www.neboticnik. si. Open Sun-Wed 09:00-01:00, Thur-Sat 09:00-03:00.

PA6USW Plaza Café More than just a space for guests to wait for morning taxis to enjoy a morning coffee on the terrace, the ground floor café at the Plaza Hotel is popular meeting place for local businessmen, as well as shoppers looking for a more sophisticated atmosphere than afforded elsewhere in Ljubljana’s massive BTC retail district. In addition to coffee, drinks, cocktails and snacks, daily lunches are also offered.QM-3, Bratislava 8, tel. +386 (0)1 243 00 00, info@plazahotel.si, www.plazahotel.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00. PALW STA Travel Café Connected to the Ljubljana branch of STA travel via a doorway at the back, this centrally-located café is a popular destination in its own right - and it’s not hard to see why. A facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

huge first floor terrace is loaded with comfy wooden furniture including wicker couches and even a couple of sun beds, and despite the proximity to Ljubljana’s main road you can still enjoy quiet drink in the sun. Inside is just as comfortable, and they’ve recently added hot sandwiches, pizzas and other light snacks to the menu. It also wouldn’t be a travel café without the bi-monthly presentations of exotic locales around the globe - check the chalk board for upcoming events.QC-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. +386 (0)1 439 16 90, fax +386 (0)1 439 16 95, info@staljubljana.com, www.staljubljana.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PTJ6GBXW Zvezda A bustling café frequented by a battalion of clients from students to pearl-laden old ladies. Zvezda’s décor leans in the direction of your classic Buddha lounge, with a scattering of Oriental statues and some fine brown velvet wallpaper. Not the cheapest café in town, your money is at least well spent. The coffee is strong enough to wake the dead, and the cakes are some of the best and stickiest in town. They also have a second location on the ground floor of Hotel Slon, and another in Hala 12 in BTC. QC-3, Wolfova 14, tel. +386 (0)1 421 90 90, kavarna.zvezda@ siol.net, www.zvezdaljubljana.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00 BTC Hala 12 open 08:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-20:00. (€2.80-4.50). PTJAUGBSW

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Nightlife

Nightlife Ljubljana likes to party hard, and party late. The place goes positively Mediterranean during the summer, with cafés, bars and restaurants staying open well into the early hours as locals and visitors alike simply forget to go home. All of the city’s squares bustle into the early hours too, with the city’s main square, Prešernov Trg, often still packed with revelers until 03:00. Indeed, Prešernov Trg is something of a focal point for Ljubljana nightlife, with most of the city’s best bars, clubs and cafés nearby.

Also note that this is by and large a very easy going city, and is no such thing as a no-go zone. Do not worry about walking home on your own late at night.

Bars In Ljubljana there’s a bar for everyone’s taste. While we’ve decided to give Pubs and Wine Bars their own categories, you’ll find pretty much every other kind of bar in town listed here - from dive bars and hipster hangouts to some truly classy affairs, and everything in between. Note that as in most European cities there is a fine line between a café and bar, with plenty of establishments easily fitting into either category, which means that most of the places here open early and serve coffee, and you can also get a beer or spirits at most cafés.

Kavarna Maček Reassuringly scruffy after so many good-looking places in the area, gurgle down some tea, coffee or something a little stronger in the safe confines of four bright orange walls decorated with some nice black and white photographic portraits of both people and Ljubljana

itself. Extremely popular with families toting young children during the weekends.QD-4, Krojaška 5, tel. +386 (0)14 25 37 91, macek@lj-kabel.net, www. sobe-macek.si. Open 09:00 - 00:30, Sun 09:00 - 23:00.

TJA6UGBSW Klub Daktari Sharing its name with the Swahili word for doctor, we’re not sure if there’s a connection, but the place always cures us of any bad mood we’re in. Located next to several other bars near the entrance to the funicular railway, Daktari reopened in 2012 after more than a year of renovations - a labour of love from the sociable owners, who are usually on hand chatting with customers. The bar exudes an old-time ambience and charm that is a rarity these days: restored antique furniture, shelves full of books, a player piano in the corner and a stage that is occasionally used for live music sets, jam sessions, theatre, cabaret and an eclectic mix of other cultural events.QD-3, Krekov Trg 7, tel. +386 (0)64 166 212, info@daktari.si, www.daktari.si. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.

PJAEBX Lepa Žoga Ideally situated for basketball and hockey fans without tickets for the events in neighbouring Hala Tivoli, you can grab a drink at this sports bar and cheer on your team in action on three TVs and a big screen. With autographed T-shirts of local sports heroes, this is can be any fan’s local.

QK-2, Celovška 43, tel. +386 (0)14 32 31 09. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. A6GBXW

Octopus Caffe & Club They’ve been known to find some strange things in the Ljubljana river, but as far as we know an octopus has not been one of them. However, this newly opened café and bar of same name is just about as close as you can get to the water without getting wet. Located within Plečnik’s famous colonnaded arcade, there’s plenty of outside seating right on the corner of the central market and Mesarski Most (Butcher’s Bridge), and a second large terrace hidden in the shade below the bridge itself. Fresh fruit smoothies are the house specialty during the day, while colourful cocktails are the most common sight in the evenings.QD-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 5, tel. +386 (0)70 824 728, hapece@hotmail.com. Open 07:00 - 03:00.

Opera Bar A bright, large, colourful space popular with many of the city’s more well-heeled residents, including those who like to attend the opera house across the street, Opera Bar is your classic café-bar. It brims with good-looking types drinking coffee during the day and something a little stronger later on. The Australian-Slovenian ownership explains the huge Aboriginestyle painted ceiling and walls.QC-3, Cankarjeva 12, tel. +386 (0)1 421 03 90, terra.australis.opera@siol.net, www.operabar.com. Open 07:00-00:30, Thur-Sat 07:00-02:00, Sun 10:00-18:00. PJHAEGBXS Prulček Bar Surrounded by apartment blocks in the residential neighbourhood of Prule, this spunky outfit is yet more evidence of why you should never judge a book by its cover (or in this case a bar by its uninspiring social-era façade). Since it opened in 2012, Prulček has quietly become one of the city’s foremost venues for live music, with its Wednesday night jazz sessions routinely packing the house and carrying on well past the time when responsible working people have gone to bed. And to top things off, their beer selection is on par with any other bar in town.

Check their frequently updated Facebook page for more info about upcoming events.QD-5, Prijateljeva 2, bar@prulcek. si, www.prulcek.si. Open 06:30 - 23:30.

Rollbar-Karting BTC Another reason to visit the huge BTC complex is this extraordinary place. Taking the gimmick of the race-car-theme-drinking-hole to its logical conclusion, this subterranean boozer not only comes complete with enough racing paraphernalia

In a city with 60,000 university students, finding a party is never difficult, photo Tadej Mulej

40 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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to start your very own F1 museum, it’s actually got a go-kart racing circuit. There are no drink-driving laws here, just a bunch of electric go-carts and a hangar-size space to wiggle them through. Not quite as tame as it sounds, these go-carts when running on full power have a top speed of 120km/h, restricted for obvious reasons here to a more sensible albeit still stupidly fast 65km/h.QM-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala 18), tel. +386 (0)1 585 25 70/+386 (0)51 603 333, info@indoorkarting.com, www.indoor-karting.com. Open 07:30 23:00, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00.

AUEGBXW Sputnik Suave, dark and moody, featuring 60s retro furniture with lots of beautiful-looking people sitting on it, ice-cold beer and cocktails, a long, long bar and waitresses with even longer legs. A nice café during the day, Sputnik transforms itself during the evenings into a much buzzier place with occasional special events.QI-4, Tržaška 128, tel. +386 (0)51 627 000, fax +386 (0)12 56 67 95, dobrodosli@sputnik.si, www.sputnik. si. Open 06:30 - 24:00, Fri 06:30 - 02:00, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. PA6ULEGBXW Žmauc Ask any tuned-in local to make a list of their favourite bars and they’re almost certain to put this place on the list. Covered in quality graffiti outside and always featuring a huddle of interesting-looking individuals smoking suspiciously large cigarettes by the entrance, the exterior is but a mild prelude to what’s inside. A smallish L-shaped bar is packed day and night with more strange characters amidst an interior design scheme straight from the pages of a Manga comic. Excellent for coffee or something a little stronger. Highly recommended.QB-4, Rimska 21, tel. +386 (0)1 251 03 24, zmauc@siol.net. Open 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PJA6GB

Clubs Cvetličarna More a concert hall than a club, nonetheless Cvetličarna is a good place to check out on Friday and Saturday nights. At other times it opens to host local and foreign bands, often well-known international and regional acts, as well as stand up comedians, including many English ones, on Mondays and February - March 2014

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some Tuesdays. The venue itself is big and the atmosphere is usually great. Check their website or Facebook page for a schedule of upcoming events.QL-2, Kranjčeva 20, tel. +386 (0)590 26 316/+386 (0)4129 55 95, fax +386 (0)590 26 317, info@cvetlicarna.info, www.cvetlicarna.info.

En Pub If you’d like to experience the best of Belgrade’s legendary party scene without the hassle of a ten-hour train ride south, then En Pub in Šiška is one of the best options for an all-night Balkan-style party in the Slovene capital. Friday nights feature live bands and DJs playing a mix of fun Balkan music and international hits, while Saturdays see Serbian bands and DJs come to town. Both nights just about guarantee a packed house dancing away until the place finally closes at six in the morning. For a totally different take on Ljubljana, En Pub simply has to be experienced to be believed.QH-1, Celovška 150, tel. +386 (0)1 514 11 27, info@enpub.si, www.enpub.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri 07:00 - 06:00, Sat 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 09:00 23:00. PTA6UGBXW Gala Hala As the main concert venue in Metelkova - Ljubljana’s regionally renowned independent cultural centre - Gala Hala hosts an eclectic range of performances several times per week, including many well-known acts, while functioning as a club on other nights. The state of the art sound system and acoustics make it a popular venue for both performers and audiences, and from May till October a summer stage and garden is also opened behind the main venue, which can accommodate nearly 1000 people. Check their website for a complete list of upcoming shows.QF-1, Masarykova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 43 17 063, drustvo.kapa@ gmail.com, www.galahala.com.

If you’d like to party well into the morning, En Pub in Šiška is one of your top choices

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Nightlife Klub K4 Twice voted the best club in Ljubljana by In Your Pocket readers, if you’re staying in a hotel in this part of town and your bed starts bouncing across the room in the middle of the night, the chances are the culprit can be found inside Klub K4. A very student-oriented club indeed, it’s hot and sweaty and the DJs play some of the weirdest, hardest stuff in the country. Brilliant stuff. Klub K4 also offers Roza (Pink) Party nights for the gay community. Check out their Facebook page or website for detailed programme info.QB-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. +386 (0)40 212 292, info@ klubk4.org, www.klubk4.org. Open , Wed 23:00 - 04:00, Thu 21:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PJAG KMŠ If you’re young and a student (or at least look like one), here’s a great place to have some fun with the rest of Ljubljana’s dynamic youth. Numerous concerts and DJ nights are programmed for the weekends and the occasional weekday. Drink to your heart’s content as the booze is by far the cheapest in town.QA-3, Tržaška 2, tel. +386 (0)1425 74 80, info@klubkms.si, www.klubkms.si. Open 08:00 - 05:00, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun Closed JuneAugust. Admission €1.50. PJA6EGW Mr Stefan Braun First opened in Belgrade in 2003, this now legendary nightspot has somehow managed to remain one of the hottest clubs in Europe’s top party city ever since - and is guaranteed to be found on the itineraries of serious Slovene clubbers during their trips to the Serbian capital. To the delight of this same crowd, Mr Stefan Braun recently celebrated its 10th anniversary by opening a new club in Ljubljana, which can be found in BTC next the Kolosej cineplex. Check out their official Facebook page for the most current info.QŠmartinska 152, BTC City.

Nebotičnik There’s no better place in the city to enjoy a cocktail (or a beer or a cigar for that matter) than the bar and lounge at the top of the Nebotičnik building. The 11th floor has been renovated in line with the original design from back in 1933, meaning dark and atmospheric with lots of wood, stone and ample couches.

While the 12th floor has a more modern feel to it, with white leather chairs and an open terrace offering unparalleled views of the city and beyond.QC-3, Štefanova 1, tel. +386 (0)5 907 03 95, info@neboticnik.si, www.neboticnik.si. Open SunWed 09:00-01:00, Thur-Sat 09:00-03:00. PJA

Pubs BEER PUB GALILEJ Galilej Pub is just down the street from the IYP office (lucky us), although it’s well worth dropping by even if you don’t live in Bežigrad. Despite being perhaps one of the smallest pubs in town - basically just one cosy bar and a little beer garden - it’s a favourite of local beer aficionados. On offer is an excellent beer selection, more than 100 from around the world at last count, including some interesting local brews, and there’s also an organised beer tasting every Saturday. Galilej is also a beer shop offering bottles to go whilst loyal patrons are rewarded with every 11th beer free.QL-2, Dunajska 101, tel. +386 (0)590 335 339/+386 (0)51 640 169, info@pivoteka.si, www.pivoteka.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 23:00.

Holidays’ Pub Kilkenny and Guinness on tap inside a mildly Irish-themed bar complete with booth seating for intimate drinking sessions and a predominantly younger crowd. If you’re just in on an EasyJet flight from England and are looking for something in the city centre that resembles where you drink at home, this one should provide everything you need.QB-2, Slovenska 36, tel. +386 (0)7 082 47 28. Open 07:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PALEGCW Katakombe Konoba If you’re looking for an authentic old town drinking experience, then this no-frills tavern with a medieval ambience is a must-stop on any Ljubljana pub crawl. With high vaulted brick ceilings, sturdy time-worn wooden furniture, dim moody lighting and giant 70 year-old wine press to round out the décor, Konoba has a tendency to transport guests back in time.

During the cold winter months, mulled wine, grog and pineapple tequila are the house specialities. There’s also a separate wine bar in an adjacent room.QStari Trg 19, tel. +386 (0)59 134 262, info@konoba.si, www.konoba.si. Open 08:00 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PJA6BKW Parlament Pub Knowing neither whether it’s a café or a bar, this peculiar oddity with its books on the shelves, shady characters and

Orto Bar A combined bar and live music venue dedicated to the glorious and mostly unpretentious world of rock music, filled nightly with a well-behaved crowd in leather jackets etc, drinking the night away and taking advantage of one of the few regular live music venues in the city. The bar is worth visiting on its own. Long and thin, there’s a line of old turning ventilators along one wall, giving the place a futuristic, Mad Max feel.

QE-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 232 16 74, info@ortobar.com, www.orto-bar.com. Open Tue-Wed 21:00-04:00, Thur-Sat 21:00-05:00. PALEGBX ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Have a coffee, watch the match or join the party at Parlament Pub

(you’ve guessed it) students is nonetheless a popular stop for the heavy drinking younger crowd. Known for cheap beer and cocktails (with 3 of the latter had for the price of 2), and lively international parties almost every night, it’s a great place to both start or end an evening out. The entrance and terrace are at the back side of the building on Plečnikov Trg.QC-3, Šubičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 251 32 43.

Open 06:00 - 04:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00.

PJA6UEGBXW Patrick’s Irish Pub Ljubljana’s quintessential Irish pub is popular with locals, expats and tourists alike, and over the years we’ve personally spent many a night entertaining visitors, watching sports on the big screen and generally drinking too much here. They’ve got (arguably) the largest selection of beer in town, with some 90 varieties to choose from, and often host events such as live Irish music concerts, pub quizzes and beer tastings. Find it down a small cobbled alleyway just off Trubarjeva Ulica.

QD-3, Prečna 6, tel. +386 (0)1 230 17 68/+386(0) 41 581 333, info@irishpub-ljubljana.si, www.irishpub-ljubljana. si. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00.

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Wine Bars Viticulture in Slovenia has been refined over the centuries in the country’s three wine growing regions producing a vast selection of excellent quality wines, predicate wines and sparkling wines. You can encounter all pleasures at any of the traditional gostilnas or wine cellars found in almost every street in Ljubljana. To make your choice easier try wines such as Teran, Rumeni Muskat, Malvazija and Rebula from the coastal region. Cviček, a Slovene wine with a light taste and low alcohol is a specialty of the Posavje Region along with wines such as Renski Rizling, Traminec, Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Ranina.

Dvorni Bar This large L-shaped adventure is a pleasant café during the day and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night. There’s a swanky jazzy area at one end for more wine-oriented patrons, while the other side is a little more geared towards the restaurant crowd. With upwards of 100 varieties of wine in stock it’s a great place to sample local vintages if you don’t have time to trek out

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Nightlife to one of Slovenia’s wine growing regions, and organised tastings are held every second Wednesday from 20:00-22:00.QB3, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)12 51 12 57, info@dvornibar.net, www.dvornibar.net. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-15). PTJHA6UEGBKXSW Vander Urbani Set down a narrow alleyway on the street level of the Vander Urbani Resort in the old town, the wine list at this modern lounge bar dwarfs the full menus found at many of the city’s restaurants. Focussed primarily on Slovenian wines, there is also an ample selection of foreign bottles, but don’t let the sheer scale of choice overwhelm you, as the staff sommelier is glad to make recommendations, and every glass is accompanied with some traditional homemade snacks. Wine tastings and other related events are frequently held, and usually tied together by month-long themes.QD-4, Krojaška 6-8, tel. +386 (0)1 200 9000, info@vanderhotel.com, vanderhotel.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PJAEW

Turbo Folk Klub 12 Turbo Folk’s classic Ljubljana after-party venue is a good few kilometres from the city centre and doesn’t see a single client until around 02:00, but that’s all part of the fun really. After the other venues have closed their doors the deal is to pile into this dark underground cavern with its strange red lighting, pictures of naked women with bows and arrows on the walls and excruciatingly loud music and carry on with the party.QPrušnikova 95/+386 (0)41 67 85 77, info@klub12.si. Open 07:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 05:00.

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Casinos The automated casino, or gaming saloon, has arrived in a big way - no more croupiers saying rien ne va plus, but no more strict dress code either, though you still won’t get in wearing jogging clothes. You’ll need to be 18 and carry ID to enter.

Slovenia officially leads the world in the number of casinos per capita, with a handful to choose from in Ljubljana

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Ljubljana Nightlife 2014 Casino Lev Slot machines, gaming tables and some of the best-looking waitresses on the planet in the basement of the hotel of the same name.QB-2, Vošnjakova 1 (Hotel Lev), tel. +386 (0)1 430 42 23, info@casinolev.si, www.casinolev.com. Open 00:00 24:00. No admission fee. POJHAULEG Casino Rio Central QD-2, Miklošičeva 9, tel. +386 143 07 400, www.casino-rio.si.

For the 4th year in a row, we took the pulse of Ljubljana’s partygoers, students, beer-drinkers, clubbers, connoisseurs, cigar aficionados and overall sophisticates for our 2013 Best Nightlife poll. After narrowing down the con-

Best Bar Žmauc

tenders to shortlists of finalists in nine different categories, we left the final rankings up to the votes of our readers, the results of which can be seen here. Congratulations to all the winners and thanks to everyone who voted!

Best Pub patrick’s irish pub

Pub Crawls Party in Ljubljana Run by a young local team of self-described party animals, which guarantees customers ‘A night you won’t remember, a night you won’t forget’, Party in Ljubljana can arrange everything from a party guide to show small groups what a typical night out in the Slovene capital is like, to the full VIP treatment with limo rides and VIP tables. The standard pub crawl can be supplemented with prepaid alcohol packages based on what kind of drinker you are (ie pussy, normal or heavy), while perhaps their most interesting service is a crash course in picking up Slovene girls with the help of a ‘bad-ass’ wingman for the night. Booking and enquiries can be made on their very userfriendly website.Qtel. +386 (0)31 339 393, info@partyin.eu, www.partyin.eu/ljubljana.

Best Live Music orto bar

Best Club & Metelkova Venue GALA HALA

Adult Entertainment Although Ljubljana is a relatively small city, it does make space for sexy and sinful late night entertainment for adults, gays, lesbians, transvestites and so on. There are several strip clubs in Ljubljana that have recently sprung up around the city displaying a diversity of foreign girls for escorting, table-dancing, stripping or just to keep you company if you buy them an (expensive) drink, and we mean €100 for the cheapest bottle of champagne. Clubs usually provide a dance show, often being quite explicit.

Escorts in Ljubljana are limited but your hotel can advise you where to find a companion for the night. Although prostitution is not illegal in Slovenia, you would have to look very hard to find any girl working the streets. Of course, we don’t advise that you try as these girls do not necessarily undergo any medical examination. It is best to stick with the more ‘refined’ selection we have on offer in Ljubljana.

Hard Core Club With a name like that you can’t help but smile and get in a taxi and head here. The concept is simple: outstanding erotic entertainment provided by prefessionals in a safe environment for groups of lads of all ages and backgrounds. Nobody pesters you to buy them extortionate ‘lady drinks’, there is always something worth watching on stage, and entrance is free.

Drinks are reasonably priced - even the erotic ones - and the girls who perform here are on the whole of a far higher phwoar category then elsewhere.QG-3, Dolgi Most 4, tel. +386 (0)41 71 66 12, info@hardcoreclub.si, www.hardcoreclub. si. Open 17:00 - 05:00, Fri 17:00 - 07:00, Sat 21:00 - 05:00.

Closed Sun. PJAG ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Best Lounge Bar nebotičNik

Best Strip Club hard core

Best Wine Bar dvorni bar

What to see

What to see top 10 sights Zmajski Most (Dragon Bridge) One of the most photographed sights in Ljubljana, Zmajski Most, or Dragon Bridge, is also one of our personal favourites, topped with four ferocious dragons.QE-3, Resljeva Cesta.

Kongresni Trg Completely renovated in 2011, Kongresni Trg is home to some impressive buildings, and also frequently hosts events.

The name is often used by locals to refer to both the square and the adjacent Zvezda Park.

Prešeren Square is both the figurative and geographical (almost) heart of the Slovene nation, photo by B. Jakše & S. Jeršič

Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for visitors to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town to Ljubljana’s multitude of museums and galleries are more than worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary combination of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik’s to the historic atmosphere of the Old Town to the occasional blast-to-the-past burst of retroYugoslav city planning all work together in harmony to create the most unique of cities.

Buildings Mestna Hiša (Town Hall) The 15th century Town Hall was dramatically altered over the ages, and given a Baroque facelift in the early 18th century. Note the original medieval coat of arms on the building. Inside, you can view the Grand Council Chamber, wedding hall and banquet hall. Tours are available by appointment at the tourist office.QD-3/4, Mestni Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)1 306 11 71, galerija@ljubljana.si. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Nebotičnik (Skyscraper) Believe it or not, this lovely little skyscraper was, at 70 metres, one of the highest buildings in Europe when it was built in 1933. The rooftop café and lounge has also finally reopened after being shuttered for nearly a decade - providing some of the best views in the city.QC-3, Štefanova 1.

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Cemeteries Žale Cemetery (Pokopališče Žale) Built on the site of a much earlier cemetery attached to the neighbouring (and still standing) Holy Cross Church, what’s arguably Plečnik’s Ljubljana masterpiece was completed in 1940. The grand arched entrance complete with stark white colonnades supposedly represents the gateway between the lands of the living and the dead.

Between them and the cemetery itself are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels and monuments including the Žale funeral home. Architectural styles abound, reflecting Plečnik’s vision of equality among religions. The cemetery itself, once you get there, is a pleasure to behold and is worthy of a good hour’s stroll. The final resting place of many Slovenian greats including Plečnik himself, also find a small area given over to the Jewish population of the city.QL/M-2, Med Hmeljniki 2, tel. +386 (0)1420 17 00, info@zale.si, www.zale.si. Open 07:00 - 19:00 AprilSeptember 07:00-21:00.

Churches As you may have already noticed, the old town boasts a number of famous churches dating far back to the Baroque period under the influence of Venetian architecture. Aside from during mass, most of the main churches are open to the public from 15:00-18:00. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Križanke Consisting of several venues located inside a former monastery complex, the summer theatre is another Plečnik creation and one of the most atmospheric concert venues in the city.

Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski Grad) Definitely the most dominant sight in the city, in addition to its extremely photogenic appearance Ljubljana’s famed castle is home to a couple of excellent restaurants, exhibitions spaces and other venues. QD-4, Grajska Planota 1.

Metelkova Mesto F-1/2, Masarykova 24. Since squatters moved into these former army barracks in 1993, Metelkova has slowly grown into an established nightlife centre with various bars, clubs and arts spaces. QF-1/2 facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Prešernov Trg It’s no exaggeration to say that Prešeren Sqaure is not only the centre of Ljubljana, but truly the spiritual centre of the Slovene nation - and more practically the de facto meeting point in the city. QD-3, Prešeren Square.

River Boat Cruises Slowly meandering through the old town, the Ljubljanica river offers an interesting angle from which to take in the many sights, with a number of tourist boats obligingly plying its waters.

Tivoli Park Ljubljana’s central park, Tivoli offers countless paths, fields and play areas, as well as forest trails on Rožnik hill.

Facilities includes sports centres and a couple museums.

QA/B-2.

Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) Arguably Plečnik’s most famous work (though we would argue otherwise), the famed Triple Bridge connects Prešeren Square with the old town on the other side of the river.QD-3.

Tržnica Ljubljana’s large open-air central market is at its liveliest on Saturday mornings, when seemingly half of the city comes here to buy a week’s supply of fruit and vegetables directly from local farmers.

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What to see Ljubljana castle

Perched on top of Castle Hill (Grajska Planota) and dominating the city skyline to the south, Ljubljana’s magnificent castle stands on the site of several former defensive buildings in a hilly area of land stretching away to the south of the old town. The current ensemble of buildings originates from necessary 16th-century reconstruction work following the earthquake of 1511, with several later additions.

The main points of interest for the visitor are the Outlook Tower (Razgledni Stolp), built in the 19th century and raised a further 1.2m by the government in 1982. The tower’s Virtual Castle screens a 12-minute film showing the interesting and informative history of the castle.

On the same floor find a small door that takes you to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron steps, each individually decorated with an image of the tower and the city’s dragon. A door at the top leads to a small viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with wonderful views of the city.

Underneath the tower, tucked away through a doorway in the corner of the courtyard, is the diminutive St George’s Chapel (Kapela sv Jurija), which is one of the oldest parts of the castle. It was renovated in Baroque style and in 1747 decorated with the coats-of-arms of over sixty rulers, including Herman and Ulrich of Celje, Henrik of Gorizia County, and Krištof Rauber, a bishop of Ljubljana.

A new and beautifully presented permanent Exhibition on Slovene History is now also open for visitors - see more info under Museums & Galleries. The castle also has a small art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions, a café, restaurant and souvenir shop. It’s also a popular place for local weddings, and during the summer puts on concerts and, in July, hosts a popular outdoor cinema. To reach it, several small paths lead up from the old town, or take the funicular next to the Puppet Theatre and open market.QD-4, Grajska Planota 1, tel. +386 (0)1 306 42 93, info-center@ ljubljanskigrad.si, www.ljubljanskigrad.si. October-March 10:00-21:00, April-September 09:0023:00.. Full combined ticket €5-8, half combined ticket €3-6, Guided tour €6-10. Special discounts for families.

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What to see Cathedral (Stolnica Sv. Nikolaja) With its classic twin towers and trademark single, weatherworn green dome, the city’s cathedral, more properly known as St Nicholas’ Church, encapsulates everything that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too exciting at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer details reveals its hidden charm and beauty.QD-3, Dolničarjeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1234 26 70, lj-stolnica@rkc.si, lj-stolnica.rkc.si.

sculptor Francesco Robba (1698-1757), and is also known as The Fountain of Three Carniolan Rivers. It was the last of Robba’s Ljubljana creations. The eight years it took him to complete it essentially bankrupted the man, and he finally left the city for Zagreb. Based loosely on the grand fountains of Rome, the artist’s masterpiece features three river gods, supposedly representing the Krka, Ljubljanica and Sava rivers.QD-3, Mestni Trg.

Franciscan Church (Frančiškanski Samostan) Built in an instantly recognisable, mildly swirly Baroque fashion, Ljubljana’s mid-16th-century Franciscan Church dominates Prešernov Trg like a big pink birthday cake. Part of a larger complex with an additional Franciscan monastery, if you’re lucky enough to find the doors unlocked expect a few treats inside including Robba’s 18th-century altar, some charming frescoes dating from 100 years or so later and a chapel notable for containing a cross designed by none other than Jože Plečnik. For those who don’t appreciate the finer points of ecclesiastic architecture, the front steps do at least provide a nice place to sit and watch the world go by on a gloriously sunny day.

QD-3, Prešernov Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)1242 93 00.

Museums & Galleries

Orthodox Church (Pravoslavna Cerkev) Built alongside the southwestern perimeter of Tivoli Park in 1936 to serve the city’s Serbian community, this wholly unremarkable church complete with all the usual ostentatious details, is worth visiting during services, daily at 10:00.

QB-2, Prešernova, tel. +386 (0)1252 40 02.

Monuments

While Ljubljana’s museums and galleries are likely not the top reason for most visitors coming to the city, the breadth and scope of what’s on offer is more than enough to keep you busy for days on end.

City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana) A magnificent museum run by a team of historians who know how to show people a good time, showcasing Ljubljana in all its good and bad colours throughout history.

Featuring both permanent and temporary exhibitions, this is the best place in town for a crash-course in city history.

Find scale models of unfulfilled Plečnik creations, elaborate costumes, old photographs and much more besides.

Check out the fabulous little website for upcoming exhibitions.QC-4, Gosposka 15, tel. +386 (0)1241 25 00, info@ mestnimuzej.si, www.mestnimuzej.si. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4/2,50.

English-language guided tours last Sun at 11:00.

urbana card

Old Ljubljana is the city’s historical part of town and practically a monument in itself. Fountains, the town hall, some restaurants and local designer shops are located in old buildings that are very well preserved. The Triple Bridge “Tromostovje” is one of Ljubljana’s trademarks designed by Joze Plecnik. “Zmajski most “ or the Dragon Bridge is another main bridge in Ljubljana, guarded by four detailed dragon statues, which became the symbol of the city. But the most prominent of all, the medieval Ljubljana Castle was built on a prehistoric site on top of a hill, which dominates the cityscape. You can go up by a funicular railway for €2-3.

France Prešeren Slovenia’s national poet France Prešeren (1800-1849) stands in the square named in his honour at the foot of the Triple Bridge. As well as offering an interesting visual treat, the monument also serves as a focal point for people meeting in the city. Erected in 1905, the large monolith is the work of the architect Maks Fabiani and sculptor Ivan Zajc and features the Muse of poetry holding a small laurel of bay leaves over his head as well as extracts from his writing around the base.QD-3, Pršernov trg.

Robba Fountain (Robbov Vodnjak) One of the most famous landmarks in the city, this lovely 1751 fountain is named after its creator, the Italian Baroque ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Urbana Ljubljana Tourist Card Rated as one of Europe’s best city cards, Tourism Ljubljana’s Urbana offers free admission to all of the city’s main sights as well as free unlimited transport LPP’s extensive urban bus network. The card can be purchased at most hotels and all three of Ljubljana’s Tourist Information Centres (on Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje, at the main train station and on Krekov Trg). Prices are €23/30/35 for 24/48/72 hours, and the card - which contains RFID chip - is activated upon its first use. Order online and save 10% of the regular price!Qwww. visitljubljana.si. 24-hour card €23, 48-hour card €30, 72-hour card €35. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

In recent years, February and March has brought at least a few days of heavy snow to Ljubljana, photo by B. Čeak)

International Centre of Graphic Arts (Mednarodni Grafični Likovni Center) Located inside the gorgeous 17th-century Tivoli Mansion, this must-see attraction for anyone with even a passing interesting in the visual arts contains a staggering 4 000 prints and over 4000 artist’s books and other printed ephemera, mostly from the second half of the 20th century onwards and including the work of many of the great masters of European graphic arts.QA-2, Pod Turnom 3, tel. +386 (0)1241 38 00, info@mglc-lj.si, www.mglc-lj.si.

Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3.40/1.70.

During the Biennial €6/3.

Museum of Architecture and Design (Muzej za Arhitekturo in Oblikovanje Located in Fužine Castle in the far east of the city, the Museum of Architecture and Design ( or MAO for short) is the main Slovenian institution operating in the fields of architecture, urban planning, industrial and graphic design and photography. MAO collects and archives work from these areas, which can then be used for both educational purposes and public exhibition, and acts as a museum and architectural and design center, whose mission is to facilitate the exchange of ideas and knowledge and the establishment of urban, architectural and design dialogue.

Originally founded in 1972 as a private institution, in 2010 it came under the management of the Government of the Republic of Slovenia. To reach Fužine Castle from the city centre, take buses 11, 20 or 25.QN-3, Pot na Fužine 2, tel. +386 (0)1 548 42 70, mao@mao.si, www.mao.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3 for adults, €1.50 for students/children, €5 for families.

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What to see Museum of Contemporary Art (Muzej Sodobne Umetnosti Metelkova) Along with the Slovene Ethnographic Museum and a branch of the National Museum, the Museum of Contemporary Art rounds out Ljubljana’s newly christened Museum Quarter located between Metelkova and Tabor in the centre of the city. Nearly two years of renovations has transformed the former administrative building into the city’s most dynamic arts space, with rooms of all shapes and sizes situated around a vaulting central atrium. The museum is focussed on works from the 1960s to the present day, and boasts a permanent collection devoted to Eastern Europe’s postwar avant garde movement, as well as a selection of works from its sister institution, the Museum of Modern Art. Definitely a must-see for art fans.QF-2, Maistrova 3, info@mg-lj.si, www.mg-lj.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5 adults, €2.50 students/pensioners, €3.50 groups.

The National University Library is one of Ljubljana’s many architectural gems, here’s a detail of the door handle at the main entrance, photo by B. Jakše & S. Jeršič

Tourist information Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre (Turistični Informacijski Center) A small but extremely well equipped resource with plenty of maps, brochures galore in English, information about what’s on in the city and a range of information on what to see and do in the region. They also organise tours, can help with accommodation, and should be one of your first ports of call when you arrive. Their website is one of the best we’ve seen in Central Europe and is well worth further investigation. Friendly, informative staff too.QD-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. +386 (0)13 06 12 15, fax +386 (0)13 06 12 04, tic@ visitljubljana.com, www.visitljubljana.com. Open daily Oct-May 08:00-19:00, June-Sept 08:00-21:00.

Slovenian Tourist Information Center (STIC) Ljubljana’s central tourist office is a bit larger and usually less crowded than the main branch located a few hundred metres away opposite Prešeren Square, and they also helpfully stock heaps of maps, brochures and general information for the entire country. Tickets for most events in and around town can be purchased, and the staff will gladly give you a run down of the various tours and excursions on offer. Bicycle rentals are also available for only €8 per day, and are a great way to see more of the city.QC-3, Krekov Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 306 45 75, fax +386 (0)1 306 45 80, stic@ visitljubljana.com, www.visitljubljana.com. Open Oct-May 08:00-19:00, Sat, Sun & holidays 09:0017:00, Jun-Sept 08:00-21:00 daily.

50 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

National Gallery (Narodna Galerija) Inside Czech architect František Edmund Škabrout’s fabulous late 19th-century neo-Renaissance masterpiece with an additional modern wing thrown on for good measure, this above-average gallery features the very best in Slovenian art from the 13th century up to the first half of the 20th century, including paintings by such notable artists as Ivan Grohar (1867-1911), Richard Jakopič (1869-1943) and Ivana Kobilca (1861-1926). The other permanent exhibition in the building focuses on European painting, and includes some really fine examples of the Renaissance-period Italian painting through to the more modernist work of the early 20th century. The gallery also contains a small gift shop, which has several good books and postcards.QB/C2, Prešernova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 241 54 18, info@ng-slo. si, www.ng-slo.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3.5-7.

National Museum of Contemporary History (Muzej Novejše Zgodovine Slovenije) If you needed a reason to visit Tivoli Park, it’s here. This fascinating museum inside a wonderful 18th-century mansion presents the history of Slovenia from the period around the start of WWI until the Slovenian Presidency of the EU in 2008. Using a combination of well-presented exhibits including old photographs, clothing and household items the museum charts the often wobbly path of the nation through and between the two world wars and the difficult and truly fascinating post-war communist years. The building itself is worth seeing alone, being a marvellous combination of original Baroque and the interesting modernist work of the Slovenian architect Jurij Kobe, dating from 1991.

QB-1, Celovška 23, tel. +386 (0)1 300 96 10, uprava@ muzej-nz.si, www.muzej-nz.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

Closed Mon Open Tues - Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3.50 for adults, €2.50 for children, €8 family.

National Museum of Slovenia (Narodni Muzej) Found lurking inside another of the city’s fine, late 19th-century neo-Renaissance buildings complete with ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Ljubljana celebrates 2000 years of Emona Exactly 2000 years ago, in what is now the city centre of modern Ljubljana, the Roman colony of Emona was constructed. As first urban settlement in the Ljubljana area, the outpost played an important role in the defence systems of the Roman Empire, and flourished until the 5th century. This year Ljubljana celebrates its 2000th anniversary with a special cultural programme. Visitors can discover and experience Emona on special guided tours, which even include tastings of ancient Roman cuisine. In museums, galleries and open-air sites there will be various interesting exhibitions, including costumed performances that will carry spectators back to the 1st century, workshops for children and adults, as well as lots of other events as well as lots of other events, more info about which can be found at www.visitljubljana.com.

Events The Dragon Carnival

1 March 2014 at 11:00, Breg Embankment The great carnival parade through the streets of Ljubljana will have an Emona theme this year, with children and adults in Roman masks, in addition to the traditional Slovene carnival masks.

Ave, Emona!

22-24 Aug 2014, Kongresni Trg & Zvezda Park For three days in August Emona will come to life in Kongresni Trg and Zvezda Park, with Roman citizens, legionnaires and indigenous people settling there. Costumed societies from Slovenia and abroad will recreate evens from the time of Emona. Legionnaires will display their skills and military formations, Roman citizens will put on shows and dance performances, and face off against gladiators. At a Roman market you can buy the products of artisans, sample Roman refreshments in an ancient tavern or learn long-forgotten skills at art workshops.

Guided Tours Getting a taste of Roman Emona

Learn about the archeological heritage of Emona on a guided tour through the streets of the city centre and the City Museum of Ljubljana.

Schedule: 1 Mar - 30 Apr, Thurs at 16:00 (except in the case of rain) Price: €14, children (4-12) €7

Experiencing the Roman city of Emona

Experience the remnants of Roman Emona accompanied by Roman legionnaires and a Roman guide. Visit archeological parks, take a look in the City Museum of Ljubljana, and try old Roman specialities.

Schedule: 1 May - 30 Sept, Wed and Fri at 16:00 (except in the case of rain) Price: €15, children (4-12) €7.50

Experiencing the Roman city of Emona by torchlight

Go 2000 years in the past and discover life Roman Emona at night by torchlight. Visitors are accompanied by a Roman legionnaire and led by a Roman guide, who will unveil the rich heritage of Roman Ljubljana at archeological sites and hidden corners of the city, where you can also try old Roman specialities.

Schedule: 1 May - 30 Sept, Thurs and Fri at 20:00 (except in the case of rain) Price: €16, children (4-12) €8 All tours are in both Slovene and English, and start at TIC on Stritarjeva Ulica, lasting 2hrs. Group tours in Slovene, English, German and Spanish can also be arranged on request starting at €10 per person. For more information and tickets contact TIC at tel. 01 306 1215, email tic@ visitljubljana.si, or see www.visitljubljana.com.

What to see fine painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, this is the oldest museum in country, founded way back in 1821. Permanent displays include an intriguing collection dedicated to the Slovenians and the Slovenian language alongside the usual bits and pieces of interest dug out of the ground, plus a large ensemble of almost 200 examples of carved stonework dating from Roman times excavated in the city and surrounding regions.QB-3, Prešernova 20, tel. +386 (0)12 41 44 00, info@nms.si, www.nms.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €4-8.5.

Slovene Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski Muzej) The Slovene Ethnographic Museum (SEM) - a museum “about people, for people”, prides itself as being the link between the past and the present, between our own and other cultures, between nature and civilisation. A central museum of ethnology, a museum of dialogue, open, active and hospitable with dedicated public services. The museum is located in a new urban cultural centre of Ljubljana known as part of former military barracks of the Metelkova area, which have undergone complete restoration, and in the future will form the centre of Ljubljana’s arts scene. Through two permanent exhibitions, diverse annual temporary exhibitions and other events - Slovene, European and non-European - SEM presents and reports on the traditional culture of Slovenia and other cultures of the world in creative and imaginative ways. Find the entrance in the large square at the back of the building.QF-2, Metelkova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 300 87 00, etnomuz@etno-muzej.si, www.etno-muzej.si.

Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4.50/2.50 (adults/students). Free admission the last Sunday of the month.

Technical Museum (Tehniški Muzej) A bit of a drive to get to this one, but if tractors, fishing rods, tools of every possible size, shape and application, guns, odd metal boxes that possible work on steam and thousands of other similar contraptions and devices tickle your trumpet then get thee to the tiny village of Bistra, or rather its lovely old castle and grounds. Other points of particular interest

tours

Slocally.com In much the same way that the Slow Food movement revolutionised the way people view the experience of enjoying a good meal, the cleverly named Slocally.com aims to promote a wider movement of Slow Tourism in Slovenia, and offers dozens of unique activities for visitors to participate in - from tasting locally produced foods and wines on family-run farms to experiencing traditional local events and fairs to taking part in a diverse variety of hands-on workshops. We’re not exaggerating when we say that there’s likely no better or more convenient way to get to know Slovenia. Detailed descriptions and clearly indicated prices can be found on the very informative website, and the passionate creator of the project, Vesna Velišček, is always happy to answer any questions you may have.QFrankopanska 29, tel. +386 (0)41 432 488, vesna@slocally.com, www.slocally.com. include an eccentric collection of Tito’s old cars and a permanent exhibition dedicated to printing and the written word in Slovenia, including an interesting hotchpotch of machines and tools used in the printing process. Sundays see the place turn into a working museum, complete with demonstrations of lots of sharp, fast-turning and essentially dangerous tools. Pack your protective goggles and head 30km southwest out of Ljubljana on the main A1 highway and take the Vrhnika turnoff. The museum is a few kilometres south of here along road 642.QBistra 6, Bistra Pri Vrhniki, tel. +386 (0)1 750 66 70, info@tms.si, www.tms.si. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon July, August Tuesday-Friday 10:00-18:00. Admission €2.40-4.

Parks & Gardens

A mischievous mob of meerkats is just one of the many attractions at Ljubljana’s fine zoo, photo by Petra Hrovatin

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Ljubljana Zoo (Živalski Vrt) Located to the west of the city centre, and surrounded by the natural forests at the edge of Rožnik hill, the zoo is easily reached by public transport (bus 23), taxi (€3-4) or on foot (25-35 minutes). Thanks to its position it stays refreshing cool here during the summer months, and is completely insulated from the noise and commotion of the city throughout the year.QI-3, Večna Pot 70, tel. +386 (0)1 244 21 88, info@ zoo.si, www.zoo.si. Open daily 09:00-16:00 in Jan-Feb, 09:00-17:00 in Mar & Oct, 09:00-18:00 in Apr & Sept, and 09:00-19:00 May-Aug. Admission €7 for adults, €6 student/seniors, €4-5 children, €2 persons with disabilities, €1.5 dogs. Free for children under 2. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Shopping

Shopping Malloni With roots dating back to a small central Italian shoemaking workshop in the 1950s, over the past few decades the Malloni Group has greatly expanded and diversified its lines of women’s fashion, but still remains a family-run business - now in the third generation. The fashion house’s first Ljubljana boutique opened in 2012, just steps away from most of the city’s major sights. In addition to the main Malloni label, which focuses on prêt-à-porter fashion, the shop will also feature the I-Malloni line (for creative, trendy designs), Malloni Tricot (for knitwear), and Ixos (for innovative footwear and accessories).QD-3, Mačkova 4, tel. +386 (0)40 721 702, malloni.ljubljana@ gmail.com, www.malloni.com. Open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00, Sun10:00-17:00. Summer 10:00-13:00, 16:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun closed.

Marina Yachting Everything, from sou’westers to sweaters, a yachtsman could need, and a few things he might not. Marina is a shop for sailors who actually go sailing; this is Slovenia after all, and the whole country appears to own a boat.QC-4, Novi Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)1 425 1107, marina.yachting@amis.net, www.liliinroza. si. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Find original handmade leather handbags and a selection of designer shoes at the family-run Barlič on Mestni Trg (see page 56)

One of the great things about Ljubljana is the fact that you can shop the old-fashioned way: strolling the city centre’s streets, ducking in and out of any number of high street stores, local brands and cute little boutiques. A number of stores have locations on the streets that abut the river, making this - if we’re honest - one of our favourite shopping cities in Europe.

The main shopping streets in the city centre are Mestni and Stari Trg at the base of Castle Hill, Trubarjeva, Wolfova Ulica and Miklošičeva on the opposite bank. There are also plenty of stores in the grid of streets between Slovenska Cesta and the river. If you would like a mall experience however, head out to BTC City, a couple of kilometers from the city centre on the road to Maribor. Besides an enormous mall (City Park) there are also a number of warehouse-like outlets stores, as well as a water park and entertainment city.

Department Stores Nama Set in the heart of the city centre, just opposite the central post office, this modern department store offers several floors of clothing for men and women, with brands ranging from sporty to trendy to sophisticated. A large selection of household items can be found on the fourth floor and a supermarket stocked with an appetizing variety of ready meals, salads, produce and other quick eats is in the basement, while the ground floor is where you will find cosmetics and accessories.QC-3, Tomšičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 425 83 00, info@nama.si, www. nama.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. 54 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Fashion Forma F+ One of Ljubljana’s largest fashion and sporting good megastores, in addition to the individual approach and personal advice from resident professional athletes - Jure Košir, Drago Grubelnik, Rene Mlekuz - Forma F+ also offers an exclusive range of top brands, including Quiksilver, Roxy, Rossignol, SuperDry, Columbia and Nike. It’s located on three floors of the Crystal Palace building in BTC City, and there’s also a Forma F+ Outlet in Hala 11, where items from last season can be bought with a significant discount.QM-2, Ameriška 8, BTC City, tel. +386 (0)5 994 61 80/+386 (0)1 300 08 26, info@fplus.si, www. fplus.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Krznarstvo Eber This small boutique, located just metres from Prešeren square, has been trading in the finest furs for nearly 100 years. Fourth generation Milena Eber carries on the family tradition, lovingly repairing fur coats as well as producing one of a kind pieces using sustainably-sourced pelts of every ilk. ​Krzanstvo Eber sell everything from gifts and home wares to accessories and apparel such as stunning fur coats - a big trend this season.

Whilst we’re no fur experts, Krzanstvo Eber’s century-long history and large number of Russian customers certainly vouch for the quality of their products.QWolfova 6, tel. +386 (0)1 421 57 00, info@krznarstvo-eber.com, www.krznarstvoeber.com. Open 09:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-12:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sun. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Max&Co MAX&Co. is all about style and glamour: a perfectly calibrated blend of typically Italian quality and creativity. Sartorial tradition and state-of-the-art technology is applied to fashion design, and MAX&Co.’s collections are the fruit of a constantly evolving attitude and the desire to experiment and innovate, which constitutes the pioneering ethos of the brand.

MAX&Co. are distinguished by a fresh, contemporary international flair and purposefully designed to be reinterpreted according to one’s moods and whims.QD-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 241 47 45, maxandco@siol.net, www.liliinroza.si.

Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Petit Bateau Petit Bateau is a century-old tradition based on the things that should be a part of everyday life: Youthful playfulness, sincere happiness and endless comfort. Since 1893 the brand has been an indispensable companion for children and adults for whom quality and comfort are important.QD-4, Stari Trg 30, tel. +386 (0)5 993 49 89, petit-bateau@siol.net, www. liliinroza.si. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Quiksilver TheLjubljana branchof thewell-known international sporting apparel shop, stocks a variety of fashionable casual and sportswear for both men and women, whether your destination is the beach, the ski slopes or the mountains.QD-4, Mestni Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 251 10 73/+386 (0)51 222 069, boardridersclub.lj@gmail. com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

Viktor Barlič This family-run enterprise has been producing high-quality handmade leather goods since first opening its doors on Mestni Trg back in 1954. Nowadays the third generation facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

of the Barlič family specialises in the design and creation of original handbags and other leather accessories, combining traditional handmade methods with modern fashion trends. No two bags are exactly alike and the selection changes weekly, making this is the perfect shop for those who take pride in being unique. A carefully chosen range of imported women’s footwear is also available. The shop is a winner of the prestigious Ljubljana Quality Selection, so you can rest assured that you’ll be in good hands.QD4, Mestni Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)1 251 2908, info@barlic.si, www.barlic.si. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, 16:00-20:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Lingerie Agent Provocateur Agent Provocateur believes that ‘passion and intimacy should be indulged, and that exploring your inner desires and fantasies profoundly enriches your life.’ Not our words, the words of the Agent Provocateur philosophy. You will find the famed and unseemly British lingerie boutique all over the world, including Slovenia. The range has expanded somewhat since the opening of their first shop in 1994 (on Broadwick Street, Soho) - Ljubljana’s boudoir featuring such delights as luxurious lingerie, enticing swimwear, seductive perfume, stylish accessories and even an exclusive edition of charades.QC/D-4, Breg 2, tel. +386 (0)1 425 41 88, ljubljana@agentprovocateur.si, www. agentprovocateur.com/stores/europe/slovenia.html.

Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. February - March 2014

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Shopping

Second Hand/Vintage

Slovenian Designers

Gifts & Souvenirs

Vintage Galerija Perhaps the city’s only true vintage clothing retailer, the shop actually grew out of necessity as a result of the owner’s passion for scouring various markets across Italy for textile treasures from bygone eras. Running the gamut from elegance to kitsch and everything in between, most items here can be traced to their exact year of production (or close), and many seem to come with a story or two that serve to enrich their vintage credentials.

Sadly, the clothing is currently women’s only, but there is small selection antiques for impatient boyfriends and/ or husbands to browse, which included a 17th century map of Italy among other items last time we visited.QD3, Obrežna Steza 2, tel. +386 (0)41 728 285, vintage. galerija@gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 15:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Cliché Shop Gallery Ljubljana-based Cliché Jelena Leskovar is one of the most intriguing fashion labels in the so-called ‘new Europe’.

The designs are all created using a principle of FQ, or Fashion Intelligence Quotient, which promotes the longevity of forms and compatibility of pieces from new collections with previous ones. Cliché’s shop and gallery on Novi Trg offers both collections from its own brand, as well as complimentary accessories from designers based in Europe, the US and Japan.QC-4, Novi Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)1 42 63 152/+386 (0)31 372 990, info@cliche.si, www. cliche.si. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Čokoladnica Cukrček A charming, family-run business with four shops in the city, Čokoladnica Cukrček has been delighting adults and making children happily sick for a decade and a half. Among the many fine examples of chocolate for sale include special Ljubljana dragons in souvenir wooden boxes, fruit covered in chocolate and even chocolate flavoured with salt. In addition to the main location on Mestni Trg, you can find Cukrček in the Nebotičnik passageway, opposite Hotel Union and in Mercator Centre Šiška.QD-3/4, Mestni Trg 11, tel. +386 (0)1 421 04 53, info@benedict.si, www. cukrcek.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Grošelj Marjeta Grošelj is an icon of Slovene fashion and has been producing award-winning designer handbags for more than 47 years. Grošelj handbags are handmade in Slovenia using only the finest leathers, and these beautiful and timeless creations are absolutely unique - no two bags are alike. Forget about the ubiquitous Gucci and Fendi, for the ultimate exclusive fashion statement and stylish accessory head to Marjeta’s small city centre shop - the only outlet for Grošelj bags in the world.QTavčarjeva 4, tel. +386 (0)1 231 89 84, torbice.groselj@g-bags.com.

Open 8:30 - 12:30 & 15:30-19:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00.

Closed Sun.

Galerija Rustika Featuring the largest selection of high-quality Slovenian handicraft products in the entire country, Rustika is indeed equal parts gallery and shop. Perusing the collection with the help of a knowledgeable staff member feels a bit like taking a guided tour through all of the many diverse regions and cultures found within Slovenia’s borders. Highlights include traditional beehive panels produced by an award-winning local artisan, world famous Idrijan lace, and various different seasonal specialties. In addition to their beautiful premises just inside the gates of Ljubljana Castle, there’s a second location near Tromostovje Bridge.QD-4, Ljubljanski Grad, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 18/+386 (0)31 383 247, www.galerijarustika.si.

Open 10:00 - 18:00.

Galerija RustikaQD-3, Stritarjeva 9, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 18/+386 (0)31 459 509, www.galerijarustika.si.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Shoes Boutique Vodeb Don’t be fooled by the rather nondescript storefront here, Boutique Vodeb is a true Ljubljana institution and an enchanting throwback to the days when handcrafted quality and personalised service were the norm. Located just off Šuštarski Most (Cobbler’s Bridge), behind and above the small heavily leather-scented ground-floor showroom is a bustling workshop dedicated to the fine art of custom-made footwear, where amongst the rolls of leather, shelves of moulds and workbenches of well-used sewing machines, you can still find the eldest member of the Vodeb family, who has been in the business for nearly seven decades. Custom-made shoes usually take up to a week to produce, but expedited orders are possible.QC/D-4, Jurčičev Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 14 14, vodebov@gmail. com, www.boutiquevodeb.si. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Cocozebra This eco-friendly concept shop offers its design and streetwear conscious customers all the products and brands they need in one convenient location. Concerned first and foremost with footwear, with brands like Converse, Vans, Ipanema and Havaianas well represented, there is also a carefully chosen selection of urban accessories, such as bags, socks and tights, scarfs, underwear and the most fashionable umbrellas you’ll find anywhere in Ljubljana.

Cocozebra’s eco credentials are bolstered by using recycled elements in its store layout and packaging, and focusing on Slovenian and EU producers. A second shop can be found in BTC’s Hala A (open 09:00-20:00 Mon-Sat).QD-3, Nazorjeva 2, tel. +386 (0)5 90 39 720, info@cocozebra. com, www.cocozebra.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

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Food & Drink Mesarstvo Krušič For those looking try a distinctly Slovene culinary staple, the family-run Krušič Butchery is the country’s top provider of horse meat and assorted products. While the thought of eating horse will strike visitors from certain countries as an odd practice, from a nutritional point of view the high protein and low fat meat is much healthier than the more widely consumed alternatives. Using old family recipes, Krušič produces everything from pâtés to dry salami, and of course has a wide selection of fresh raw cuts, all of which come exclusively from Slovenia and have received various quality awards. A second location can be found in the Plečnik Arcade at the central market, and their products can also be purchased at Domača Vas in Kranj.QL-3, Bezenškova 11, tel. +386 (0)1 586 24 37, www. mesarstvo-krusic.si. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun.

Fresh meat and meat products made by traditional recipes. www.mesarstvo-krusic.si

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Old Town Souvenirs Situated directly between Prešeren Square and Dragon Bridge, you’re guaranteed to pass by this well-stocked souvenir shop on any walking tour of Ljubljana. In addition to the usual assortment of souvenirs, from magnets and shot glasses to chocolate and schnapps (and of course all manner of dragons), they also offer uniquely designed high-quality t-shirts, which conveniently come in their own gift bag. If the weather is nice, you can even grab a beer or soda to drink along the riverside promenade while writing the obligatory postcards.

QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 27a, tel. +386 (0)1 620 0851, info@old-town.si. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Home & Design 1001 Dar While we’ve never personally counted, the name Tisoč in En Dar (Slovene for 1001 Things) seems just about right for this chain of home and design shops, which stock everything from pillows and blankets to gardening supplies to sushi rolling set and Thai spices. A family-run company for more than 25 year, each product is carefully selected from top international brands for both its usability and aesthetics, as well as personal taste, many of which can’t be found elsewhere in Slovenia. Visit the original shop in the Plava Laguna underpass, or one of four othfacebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

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Shopping ers, including at Citypark in BTC and Mercator Centre in Šiška in Ljubljana, as well as Europark in Maribor.QM-2, Šmartinska 152g (Citypark), tel. +386 (0)1 541 17 30, www.1001dar.si.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Pajk Klobuki Founded by Sergej Pajk in 1927, three generations and nearly a century later this family-run business is still producing high quality hats for both men and women. Using only the best materials, all of their hats come with full guarantees and are also certified under the Crafted with Pride in Slovenia label.QTržaška 57, tel. +386 (0)41 399 717, info@pajk-klobuki.si, www.pajk-klobuki.si. Open Mon, Wed, Fri 14:00 - 18:00, Tue, Thu 12:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Jewellery & Watches Rebecca The first private label from Italian designer Alessandro Testi, since its introduction some ten years ago the Rebecca brand has become an internationally renowned trend setter for high-end fashion jewellery, and is largely credited with creating the phenomenon of fashion jewellery in Italy. Innovative designs fuse traditional and contemporary styles, giving each piece a unique character. The use of unconventional materials, rather than relying solely on precious metals and gems, means that there is something for most (if not all) wallets.QD-3, Miklošičeva 1, Grand Hotel Union, tel. +386 (0)1 422 22 22.

Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Shopping Centres Ljubljana may boast more shopping centres per capita than any other city in Europe, with even more scheduled to open over the next several years. Most are located on the city’s outskirts near the ring road, including the largest, BTC and City Park, in the northeast, Rudnik in the south and Mercator Centre in the northwest.

BTC City The biggest thing of its kind in the country, the positively enormous BTC features not only some 450 shops selling everything you could possibly imagine, but also boasts restaurants galore, bars, a post office, multiplex cinema, indoor go-cart racing, a comedy theatre, billiards, volleyball courts, an enormous water park, conference facilities and its very own business district housing some of the best known local and international companies. There’s free parking for more than 8,500 vehicles too, all just a couple of kilometres out of the centre of the city in the general direction of Maribor.

QM-3, Šmartinska 152, tel. +386 (0)1 585 22 22, info@ btc.si, en.btc-city.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Citypark Boasting over 120 stores of all shapes and sizes, Citypark is Slovenia’s largest shopping centre, and the best place to find pretty much whatever you need while in Ljubljana. Besides the massive variety of stores - such as XYZ, K&O, Big Bang, Desigual, Hervis, H&M and an Interspar hypermarket - there 58 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Shopping is a terrific choice of places to eat, from Burger King to Thai food to traditional Slovenian. Unlike the city centre parking is never a problem, and there’s even a large children’s play area to keep the kids occupied. Find the Citypark page on Facebook to stay up to date with new openings and events.

QM-3, Šmartinska 152g, tel. +386 (0)1 587 30 50, info@ citypark.si, www.citypark.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Mercator Center Ljubljana A huge, modern shopping centre with plenty of underground parking. Find all your favourite shops in here plus several restaurants and even some banks. In the north of the city, 15 minutes from the centre.QI/J-1, Ljubljanske Brigade 33, tel. +386 (0)15 13 99 52, info@mercator.si, www.mercator.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Tobacco & Cigars Havana Cigar Point Tucked away in the passageway beneath Trg Republike, this small shop has the best selection of Cuban cigars in the city, including all the most popular labels such as Montecristo, Cohiba, H. Upmann, Partagas, Punch and our personal favourite Romeo y Julieta, and they are also the exclusive agent for Davidoff International’s cigars, pipes and tobacco-related products. For connoisseurs of a different sort, they’ve recently expanded their product line with the addition of some premium cognacs, single malt Scotch whiskies and even a few rare French champagnes.QC-3, Trg Republike 2, tel. +386 (0)1 42 54 258, camelot@siol. net. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

Wine, Spirits & Beer Pivoteka Za Popen’t Za Popen’t may be hidden away in a small courtyard off of Stari Trg, but it’s selection of specialty beers is the largest in the country. At last count some 250 different beers from around the world were weighing down the shelves here, nearly all of which can be explained in detail by the friendly and knowledgeable owner or her staff. For those who don’t know much about beers (like us), don’t worry - simply tell them what kind of flavours you like and they will be able to find a beer for you to try!QD-4, Stari Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1 256 59 16, zapopent@hotmail.com, www. zapopent.si. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Vinoteka Dvor Vinoteka Dvor is not only the best stocked wine shop in the city centre, you can also browse their entire selection of some 700 Slovenian wines (as well as dozens from Italy and France) and order online. Not sure exactly what you’re looking for?

Narrow down the extensive choice by region, sort, producer or price and get to tasting! The gregarious chap who runs the place is an expert and will help you through the minefield of local vintages.QC-4, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)1 251 36 44, vinoteka.dvor@kozelj.si, www.kozelj.si. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Photo: Žare Modlic, Archives: CCIS

Embassies & Expats A special feature for and about Ljubljana’s expatriate community, including an interview with US Ambassador Joseph Mussomeli facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

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Embassies & Expats

Embassies & Expats Church Services Anglican & Episcopalian Anglican services are usually held in English on the second Sunday of the month in the hall behind the sanctuary at the Lutheran parish hall located at Gosposvetska 9. More info at www.anglican.si.

Catholic Thanks to the Jesuits, English-language Mass now take place in Ljubljana every Sunday at 11:00 at St Mary’s Chapel in St Joseph Church. All are welcome, and Catechesis is also available for children. Details of the services can be found here, and more info about the church here.

Protestant Non-denominational Protestant evangelical services are held in English by the International Church of Ljubljana every Sunday at 17:00 (18:00 in July/Aug) at Binkoštna Cerkev, located at Celovška Cesta 70.

With little pollution, virtually no crime, excellent schools, numerous cultural events and plenty of opportunities for outdoor activities, Ljubljana is an ideal city for families, photo by Urša Culiberg

With a population of approximately 280,000 inhabitants, Ljubljana is somewhat smaller than Coventry, England or Białystok, Poland and just larger than Brașov, Romania or Münster, Germany - closer in size to a village than a metropolis. However, with all due respect to these other undoubtedly fine cities, Ljubljana boasts a cosmopolitan feel well beyond what the simple numbers would imply, thanks to factors including its status as an EU capital, its position at one of the continent’s main geographical and historical crossroads, strong connections with the former Yugoslav states, a long tradition of culture and the arts, its quick establishment of a (more or less) market-oriented economy after independence, its popularity as a destination for foreign students, and its relatively high quality of life, especially for families and nature-lovers. All of this adds up to a thriving expat community, which we’ve tried to feature just a bit of on the following pages.

Expat Organisations International Club of Slovenia A fun club for (mostly professional) expats living in Slovenia. The organisation is open to anyone who wants to meet new people and all their events are advertised on their website, and most are free to attend, including the popular Friday Night Drinks.QICS@sloveniawelcomes.com, www. sloveniawelcomes.com/expats.

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InterNations InterNations is the world’s number one online expat community, which offers a platform to easily meet other expats in Ljubljana. In addition to a lively online community, members regularly get together at events or take part in planning trips together.Qwww. internations.org.

Slovenian International Ladies Association The Slovenian International Ladies Association, or SILA, is a dynamic organisation of women from nearly 40 countries currently or permanently living in Slovenia.

Founded in 1993 as a non-profit, SILA dedicated to social, cultural and educational exchange among its members.

Its main event of the year, is the annual charity bazaar held each winter.Qwww.sila.si.

International Schools British International School of Ljubljana The British International School of Ljubljana opened its doors in September 2008. Based in the Bežigrad area, to the north of the city centre, the school has a current enrolment of around 170 children aged 3 to 18. The Pre-School and Primary Section use the International Primary Curriculum (IPC) and the Secondary Section prepares both Slovenian and foreign students for University of Cambridge ESOL and IGCSE exams, with A-Level following later.QK-2, Podmilščakova 24, tel. +386 (0)40 486 548, enquiries@ britishschool.si, www.britishschool.si.

QSI International School of Ljubljana Quality Schools International (QSI) of Ljubljana, is a nonprofit institution opened in September of 1995, which offers a high quality education in a nurturing and engaging environment. The instruction is delivered in the English ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

language for children from 3 to 17 years of age. They offer small class sizes, and well-qualified educators, many with teaching degrees and experience in the US, a welcoming facility and a vibrant international community. Their enrolment includes students from the diplomatic community and international business community, as well as Slovenes.

The school is fully accredited in the US, and is a designated SAT testing site.QI-4/5, Dolgi Most 6a, tel. +386 (0)1 244 17 50, ljubljana@qsi.org, www.qsi.org.

Expat Chat - Bartlomiej Wilk

Language courses Cene Štupar This long-running public institution operates under the municipality of Ljubljana, and is one of the leading providers of Slovene language courses in the country.

New classes begin regularly, and include an accompanying programme of workshops, excursions and other cultural activities, all of which are led by young enthusiastic instructors and come at very reasonable prices.QL-3, Linhartova 13, tel. +386 (0)1 234 44 00/+386 (0)1 234 44 21, fax +386 (0)1 234 44 28, info@cene-stupar.si, www.cene-stupar.si.

Centre for Slovene as a Foreign Language Courses in the Slovene language are available throughout the year, including free 180-hour courses for foreign nationals holding valid residency permits (depending on availability).QC/D-4, 12 Kongresni Trg, tel. +386 (0)1 241 86 77/+386 (0)1 241 86 48, center-slo@ ff.uni-lj.si, www.centerslo.net.

Veris Veris is both one of Ljubljana’s top translation and interpretation companies, and most professionally-run language schools. In addition to offering Slovene language courses for foreigners of all levels, they also teach English, Arabic, Chinese, Spanish, Russian and some half dozen other languages. Their modern facilities are located in the Stegne business park in the northwest of city.QJ-1, Stegne 7, tel. +386 (0)1 5000 579, info@veris.si, www.veris.si.

Who reads Ljubljana IYP? When posted at headquarters and frequently travelling in Central and Eastern Europe, I really enjoyed the regular copy of ‘somewhere’ In Your Pocket. It always guided me through cities, cuisine and cultural life. Now, living in Ljubljana, I personally need it less, but the Embassy’s guests appreciate Ljubljana In Your Pocket as much as I did before. I also have copies for other places in Slovenia.

- Former Dutch Ambassador HE Jos Douma We want to congratulate you for the successful issues of Ljubljana In Your Pocket. Most of our employees really use it for getting new information, planning their free time, etc.

- The Austrian Embassy in Ljubljana facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Nationality: Polish Age: 25 How long have you lived in Ljubljana? For 4 months What do you do? I’m a trainee at the Agency for the Cooperation of Energy Regulators (ACER) How’s your Slovene? I’ve picked up some words and can improvise with a Slavic accent What do you like most about Ljubljana? Everything is within easy reach in Slovenia and in bordering countries What do you like least about Ljubljana?

The everlasting fog!!!

Favourite restaurant? diVino at Crystal Palace in BTC City Favourite café? The one at Ljubljana Castle Favourite bar/club/pub? Katakombe Konoba Favourite Slovenian gifts to take to friends/ family back home? Slovenian wine of course!

Favourite day trip from Ljubljana? Kamnik and Vielika Planina, and of course a day trip to Bled.

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Embassies & Expats

Embassies & Expats Lots of reasons to choose Slovenia. First, I had been lying to my wife for 30 years—I am a diplomat after all! I had kept promising her we would go to a developed country and one with real seasons “soon.” She really doesn’t like the tropics and the desert, so I figured now was the time to finally keep that promise! And second, because our good friend Johnny Young had been telling us for a decade how wonderful Slovenia and Slovenians are. (He failed to tell me about all the problems!) And third, after Afghanistan, being assigned to a quiet, peaceful place seemed very appealing.

Yes, but only for a very brief time—not even a full day!--in 1973 as I hitch-hiked through Yugoslavia.

What is the best part of being ambassador?

Being able to make a difference.

The problem with most ambassadors (and other people in places of authority), I think, is that they like all the trappings of power and status, but they really fear making decisions and taking responsibility for anything. I really could care less for all the trappings of the office, but I love being able to have an impact...and, I hope, a positive impact.

The ambassador giving a speech during a WWI commemoration in Mangart, near the Italian border, photo by Mateja

Ljubljana In Your Pocket recently had the pleasure of sitting down with US Ambassador Joseph Mussomeli (or Joe as he is more widely known) to discuss his distinguished career, his time in Ljubljana and his plans for the future, as well as his favourite things to see and do in Slovenia. With a well-deserved reputation for speaking his mind on a wide range of subjects - a rarity to say the least the world of contemporary politics and diplomacy - we found his answers to be an honest and refreshing departure from the usual clichés.

ambassador mussomeli How and when did you first decide to enter the foreign services?

Hard to pinpoint a precise moment. I do recall having gone to visit a girlfriend at the University of Pennsylvania in 1977, and breaking up with her, and as I wandered along the corridors of her dormitory feeling miserable I saw an advertisement to take the Foreign Service exam and thinking that might be fun and deciding on the spot that I would take it—since it was for free. But the first rumblings of wanting to join occurred I think in 1973 as I dropped out of university and was hitch-hiking through Europe determined never to return to America. (At the time I was disenchanted with my country and foolishly thought I would find nirvana in Europe. It was the middle of the Vietnam War and I was disgusted both with the war and with the anti-war movement, so I left.) But as I travelled around Europe I realized they were just as screwed up as America, but just in different ways. Then my father wrote and asked me to return 62 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

and try to finish university. Feeling guilty, I returned, but I was determined to return only if I could do something with my life that was (1) fun and (2) useful. That turned out to be diplomacy. Selfishly, I reasoned, why hitch-hike and sleep along the side of a road, when the government will pay me to travel? And altruistically, I reasoned, the world is so small now and everything is going badly; I should try to help in some small way to make the world better.

Where were you stationed before Slovenia? What are the biggest differences between Slovenia and your previous assignments?

I started in Cairo in 1981 when Sadat was assassinated, then to the Philippines when Marcos was overthrown, then I worked on North Korea in the Department of State, then to Sri Lanka, Morocco, Bahrain and back to the Philippines.

Finally to Cambodia and Afghanistan.

Huge differences with Slovenia, at least on the surface. All these countries, with the possible exception of Bahrain, were very poor and undeveloped. Very few trappings of democracy or the rule of law. Very high levels of corruption and cronyism.

And, of course, in all those other countries no one ever complained about me going around with bare feet… ;-) So Slovenia is a far safer, cleaner, more open society. But underneath the surface, of course, some of the same problems: corruption, a disrespect for the rule of law by those with power and connections, a self-censoring press, deep-seated animosities within the population and lots of historical baggage.

Why Slovenia? Did you choose? Had you ever been here before? ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

And the worst (or least best to be more diplomatic)?

In Slovenia, at least, always “being on.” Meaning, there is no place to escape and be anonymous. I have to be very careful—always—not to be rude, not to raise my voice, not to scratch my nose or cross a street against the light—because I am always, always the ambassador of the United States. I don’t mind it too much usually, but my family especially is uncomfortable always feeling on display. A true vacation for us is when we travel to any other country and no one knows us.

Someone once told us that Ljubljana is the only city in the world where the US and Russian embassies are located right next to each other. Have you heard this too? And do you know if it’s actually true?

Yes, I have heard this and I think it is true. And I cannot even blame my Russian neighbors! They were there first.

It is unusual, but it has some benefits. We are the only two embassies I think that put up Christmas lights, so there is some good implicit cooperation…

What did you find most surprising about Slovenia/Ljubljana when you first moved here?

Lots of things, good and bad. On the good side, Sharon and I were really worried about coming to central Europe because we had heard that in some neighboring countries children were not as welcomed as dogs! And we knew that like other Central Europeans, Slovenes loved their dogs. So it was a pleasant surprise to discover that, unlike some of your neighbors, you do like your dogs, but you also adore your children and that you are all unfailingly kind and patient with my little boy. It was also surprising how safe the country is. We had heard it was safe, of course, but it is so safe, so clean, so lovely. We are still amazed—and grateful. Also, we have found the people to be delightfully warm and friendly. At first we thought otherwise because Slovenes are so shy and often facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

they will not even return a greeting if you say “good morning” to them. On the bad side: we had not at all been warned about the underlying historical tensions within Slovene society, nor had we much idea about how little Slovenia had done to modernize its economy and get rid of the old, debunked socialist economic model. And, of course, because the average Slovene is so remarkably honest and respectful of the law, it was a genuine shock to see that those who have been in control of the country do not always have the same high standards of morality as the rest of the people.

How has Slovenia/Ljubljana changed the most since you first arrived?

When I first arrived in November 2010, the economic crisis was only beginning and the greater crisis of confidence in Slovenia’s institutions and politicians was far less apparent.

There was still considerable confidence among Slovenes, which has been eroding over the last three years. But there is a silver lining to all this, I believe. The people of Slovenia can use these two crises to reform their economy and to reform their political institutions. We will see. The danger remains that a troubling present and an uncertain future may lead many Slovenes to seek refuge in a mythical past and foolishly look backward to days that they incorrectly remember as the “good old days.”

How have you changed since you first arrived?

Aren’t I too old to change? But I have tried hard to be more patient and more understanding and more compassionate.

I have a terrible temper and I can be very cruel. I like to think that being among Slovenes has taught me the crucial necessity to be more tolerant and accepting of even those I disagree with the most.

It seems that for most Americans (and a large number of Europeans for that matter), Slovenia is still most associated, or even synonymous, with Yugoslavia. Why is this the case, and what can be done to change this?

This is completely in the hands of the Slovene people. They had a choice at independence and they chose largely to retain the officials and managers under the old regime, and

All dressed up for the annual Marine Ball, photo by Sabina

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Embassies & Expats

the economic model of Yugoslavia. Yugo-nostalgia, as we call it, is far more prevalent in Slovenia than any other former republic of Yugoslavia. While leafing through an old book on the ancient Romans, I came across a quote by the 1st century BC Latin poet Horace which succinctly explained this absurd phenomenon and warned against those “laudator temporis acti”--praisers of times past: “If some god offered to take you back to those days you would refuse every time...” How forgetful humans are of the bad things in the past and pleasantly recall only what might seem good now from a far -- and safe -- distance. We all yearn for the good old days. The sad irony is that even the good old days were never that good.

Any favourite restaurants in Ljubljana or elsewhere in Slovenia?

Well, with a 9-year old at my side, Ljubljanski Dvor is our most frequent eating place! But as I have travelled around the country, I have found a number of amazingly good gostilnas. But if I mention one or two, I fear I will upset or insult that others that I may have forgotten.

Slovenia has gone through several tourism slogans since independence, including ‘The green piece of Europe’, ‘Europe in miniature’, ‘The sunny side of the Alps’ and the current ‘I feel Slovenia’.

Do you have a favourite from these?

I’ve come up with my own: Slovenia – All of Europe in One Place.

Are there any particular Slovenian gifts or souvenirs that you like to bring to friends and family abroad?

Wine. Honey. Salt. Crystal. Some really original and intriguing wooden carvings and lots of jewelry. What I buy usually depends on how much room I have in my suitcases and whether I really like whomever I am buying the gifts for…

What do you think of Slovenian cuisine? Wine?

Honestly, the wines are incredible. I can say, to paraphrase Will Rogers, that “I have never met a Slovene or a Slovene wine that I did not like.” Teran remains my favourite, but they are all so good! I cannot honestly say the same of the cuisine. I love all the hams and sausages, but I still would rather have a good bowl of pasta than anything else. Sorry, I’m such a philistine when it comes to food.

Virtually all of Slovenia is an hour or less away from Ljubljana by car. What are some of your favourite excursions or day trips outside the capital?

Piran remains my favourite city, though Skofia Loka, Kranj, Celje, Ptuj, Maribor, and Velenje are also favorites. I think Bled is lovely, but every visitor we get wants to go there, so I am a little jaded… I love to go to the salt flats, Postojna Caves, the World War I museum in Kobarid, the wineries, especially in the Karst region, and many sites in the mountains.

You’ve spoken a lot about the (many) problems facing Slovenia these days. Is there anything specific to the tourism sector where you see room for improvement or growth?

Yes. More and better advertisement. More coordination too.

For example, we have had friends and officials come here and go to wineries that are closed when they arrive! That should never happen. A few other things, like the service is uneven.

Some Slovenes are amazingly helpful and energetic about helping visitors and customers; other Slovenes act like this is still Yugoslavia: they have no work ethic and they sometimes think they are doing you a favour by just doing their job, whether it is being a waiter or a receptionist or whatever. And all these wonderful castles neglected around the country – some of them should be sold and entrepreneurs should use them as hotels and restaurants that actually make a good profit.

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How do you like to spend your free time?

Wish I had free time. What little I find I try to devote exclusively to my family, especially my 9-year old Thomas. We like to travel, both around Slovenia and outside, especially to Italy. I read, I write, and I play very challenging athletic games like bocce.

Any favourite annual events?

Of course, the Christmas lighting ceremony and the St. Nicholas parade. But also the Pust ceremony in Ptuj and the St. Martin’s Day events all over the country.

What are the first five words that come to your mind when you hear ‘Slovenia’ and ‘Ljubljana’?

Beautiful. Tragic. Wondrous. Safe. Welcoming.

The ambassador with wife Sharon and son Thomas, photo by Miro Majcen

one as national museums should be everywhere in the world; not just free for Slovenes or EU members!!).

The US embassy is very active on Facebook and other social media. Why is this important and how has it changed the role of US diplomatic missions in general and in Slovenia in particular?

Facebook, social media and public outreach in general is our highest priority. Slovenia is unique within the former Communist states for not having a very high opinion of the United States. With the perhaps understandable exception of Serbia, ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Entertaining the crowd at the REM Project concert, one of many cultural events organised by the embassy, photo by Miro Majcen

all the other former Communist states have a better, I would argue, more balanced view of America. While here in Slovenia about half the population has a very positive view of America, but the other half, while not anti-American, is suspicious and sceptical of anything the US does. So it is crucial for us to reach out to Slovenes and have as much contact as possible in as many ways as possible with Slovenes. There are many reasons for this “unique” Slovene perspective on America. Part of the reason is that Yugoslavia in general, but especially Slovenia having had borders with Italy and Austria, was always safe from the threat of the Soviet Union and always had contact with the West, so it has no sense of gratitude that the other countries have. Moreover, Slovenia was wealthier and more educated: both those qualities lend themselves to a certain self-satisfied smugness. In intellectual circles everywhere, including in the US, being cynical and sceptical is often mistaken for actually being intelligent and sophisticated.

Most Slovenes we know have not only never been to the US, but also seem to have little interest in doing so. Have you got a similar impression? And if so, why do you think this is the case?

I think this used to be more true than it is today. I recall one former ambassador telling me that the Marines used to complain that they could never get a date because Slovene women didn’t even want to consider leaving Slovenia.

That certainly is no longer true. Both the economic crisis and the slow evolution of a more open, more curious, more restless younger generation will make traveling to the US more attractive as the years pass.

If someone were planning their first ever trip to the US for three weeks of holiday, what would you recommend including on their itinerary?

I would recommend they extend their stay an additional three weeks… But if I had only three weeks: the cities of DC, New York, San Francisco, New Orleans, and Cleveland. The last city to see how Slovene-Americans are thriving—while still retaining some of their old animosities from the old country. And the sites to see: Grand Canyon, Yellowstone Park, Niagara Falls, travel along the Appalachian Trail, visit some battlefields, like Gettysburg, go to all the Smithsonian Museums (they’re free for everyfacebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Have you always been so outspoken?

I never think of it as outspoken. I just try to tell the truth and to tell it in a way that is helpful. Just talking for the sake of talking is rarely useful; it should always have purpose when an ambassador speaks, even if it might seem otherwise. But I have to admit that I come from a family of 6 children and my father always liked to brag how he would beat me more than the other 5 children combined. He used to say I was too stubborn and always insisted on doing and saying whatever I wanted. :-0 You’ve spoken elsewhere about the possibility of actually retiring to Slovenia when your current service as ambassador comes to an end. What factors led to this decision, and what generally makes the country such a popular destination for retirees, especially from Western Europe?

Slovenia, despite its temporary economic and political crises, is a truly captivating country. As I have already mentioned, it is the safest, cleanest, loveliest country where I have ever lived. The people are not all warm and fuzzy when you first meet them, but they are all genuine and kind, and once you do get to know them they are very warm.

Some of the drawbacks are the huge, disorganized bureaucracy—another leftover from the Yugoslav era…or is that “Yugoslav error”…?

And the medical system is fraught with problems. The doctors are extraordinarily good sometimes, but the after care and the medical bureaucracy are scary. But all in all, Slovenia offers a healthy, secure and comfortable life. No hassles with traffic, no hassles with crime, no hassles with politics as long as you don’t take things too seriously.

At the opening of an Martin Luther King Jr exhibition at the Faculty of Social Sciences, photo by Mateja

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Embassies & Expats Belgium QB-3, Trg Republike 3/ IX, tel. +386 (0)1200 60 10, fax +386 (0)1426 63 95, ljubljana@diplobel.fed. be, www.diplomatie.be/ljubljana. Open Mon - Fri 08:30-12:30, afternoon by appointment.

Expat Chat - Pierre Freyburger

Bosnia & Herzegovina QK-2, Kolarjeva 26, tel. +386 (0)1234 32 50, fax +386 (0)1234 32 61, ambihlju@siol.net.

Brazil QC-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)1244 24 00, fax +386 (0)1244 24 20, ambassador@brazil.si. Open 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Bulgaria QK-4, Opekarska cesta 35, tel. +386 (0)1 28 32 899/+386 (0)1 28 32 900, fax +386 (0)1 28 32 901, embassy. ljubljana@mfa.bg, www.mfa.bg. Open 8:30 - 13:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Slovenia’s diplomatic stature grew by leaps and bounds in 2008, when the country hosted the Presidency of the EU

Chambers of Commerce

PicQF-2, Metelkova 6, tel. +386 (0)1521 18 88, pic@pic. si, www.pic.si.

Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Slovenia (Gospodarska Zbornica Slovenije) QL-2, Dimičeva 13, tel. +386 (0)1589 80 00, fax +386 (0)1589 81 00, info@gzs.si, www.gzs.si.

Red Cross (Rdeči Križ)QB-4, Mirje 19, tel. +386 (0)1241 43 00, fax +386 (0)1 24143 44, rdeci.kriz@rks.si, www.rks.si.

NGOs

SončekQH-1, Rožanska 2, tel. +386 (0)1534 59 95, zveza@soncek.org, www.soncek.org/centri/centersoncek-rozanska/.

Amnesty InternationalQC-3, Beethovnova 7, tel. +386 (0)1426 93 77, amnesty@amnesty.si, www. amnesty.si.

YhdQL-2/3, Neubergerjeva 7, tel. +386 (0)1431 20 54, fax +386 (0)1 521 22 88, yhd-drustvo@yhd-drustvo.si, www.yhd-drustvo.si.

CnvosQL-3, Povšetova 37, tel. +386 (0)1542 14 22, info@cnvos.si, www.cnvos.si.

Zveza AIESEC SlovenijaQC-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. +386 (0)51 299 863, info@si.aiesec.org, www.aiesec. org/slovenia/.

Peace InstituteQD-2, Metelkova 6, tel. +386 (0)1234 77 20, fax +386 (0)1 234 77 22, info@mirovniinstitut.si, www.mirovni-institut.si.

Ljubljana iyp on facebook Can’t wait for the next issue of Ljubljana In Your Pocket? Visit our Facebook fan page to get your daily fix of snarky comments, travel and entertainment news, restaurant and nightlife tips, and lots more random Ljubljana-related info. Some of our regular features include polls on the best of what the city has to offer, date night recommendations and videos teaching everyday Slovene. It’s also the best place on the web to ask questions you may have about the Slovene capital. And if that’s not enough we also like to bribe our fans with things such as free restaurant vouchers, chocolate and concert tickets. Besides, who couldn’t use another excuse to waste time on time on the internet?

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Zveza Prijateljev Mladine SlovenijeQD-2, Miklošičeva 16, tel. +386 (0)1239 67 20, fax +386 (0)1 239 67 22, info@zpms.si, www.zpms.si.

Embassies & Consulates All embassies and consulates in Ljubljana. The opening times and the second listed telephone number is of the consular departments.

Albania QM-3, Zaloška 69, tel. +386 (0)1 547 36 50, fax +386 (0)1 547 36 52, embassy.ljubljana@mfa.gov.al.

Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Australia (consulate) QK/L-2, Železna 14, tel. +386 (0)1 234 8675, fax +386 (0)1 234 8676, austral.cons. sloven@siol.net. Open 09:00 - 12:00, Wed 14:00 - 17:00.

Closed Tue, Fri, Sat, Sun. Austria QB-3, Prešernova 23, tel. +386 (0)1479 07 00, fax +386 (0)1252 17 17, laibach-ob@bmaa.gv.at, www. bmaa.gv.at./laibach. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 8:00 12:00, Fri 8:00 - 10:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Azerbaijan QC-3, Beethovnova 4, tel. +386 (0)1 425 25 10, fax +386 (0)1 256 63 02, ljubljana@mission.mfa.gov.az. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Canada (consulate) QB-3, Trg Republike 3, tel. +386 (0)1252 44 44, fax +386 (0)1252 33 33, canada.consul. ljubljana@siol.net. Open 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. Chile (consulate) QH-3, Brdnikova 34b, tel./fax +386 (0)1423 96 70. Open 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. China QL-3, Koblarjeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1420 28 55, fax +386 (0)1282 21 99, kitajsko.veleposlanistvo@siol.net.

Open 08:00 - 11:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. Croatia QL-4, Gruberjevo Nabrežje 6, tel. +386 (0)1425 62 20, fax +386 (0)1425 81 06, vrhslo@mvep.hr, www. si.mvp.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Cyprus QD-2, Komenskega 12, tel. +386 (0)1 232 15 42, fax +386 (0)1 308 10 15, embassy.cyprus@siol.net.

Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Czech Republic QB-5, Riharjeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1420 24 50, fax +386 (0)1283 92 59. Open 07:45 - 16:15. Closed Sat, Sun. Denmark QC-1, Tivolska 48 (EuroCentre), tel. +386 (0)1 43 80 800, fax +386 (0)1 43 17 417, ljuamb@um.dk, www. ambljubljana.um.dk. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Egypt QK-4, Opekarska 18a, tel. +386 (0)1 429 54 20, fax +386 (0)1 283 91 22, embassy.ljubljana@mfa.gov.eg.

Finland QC-2/3, Ajdovščina 4/8, tel. +386 (0)1 300 21 20, fax +386 (0)1 300 21 39, sanomat.lju@formin.fi, www.finland.si. Open 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. France QC-5, Barjanska 1, tel. +386 (0)1479 04 00, fax +386 (0)1425 04 10, contact@ambafrance-si.org, www. ambafrance-si.org. Open 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Georgia QC-3, Cankarjeva 7, tel. +386 (0)8 382 65 98, fax +386 (0)8 382 65 99, ljubljana.emb@mfa.gov.ge.

Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Nationality: French Age: 30 How long have you lived in Ljubljana?

Almost two years What do you do? I’m a travel agent, bringing Francophone groups to Slovenia, the Balkans and Central Europe How’s your Slovene?

Good enough to speak with non-English speakers, perfect to order a beer What do you like most about Ljubljana?

The general cleanliness and respect that Slovenes show towards their city What do you like least about Ljubljana?

The way people drive in the city Favourite restaurant?

Gurman, Balkan food is amazing!

Favourite café?

All of them along along the Ljubljanica

GermanyQB-3, Prešernova 27, tel. +386 (0)1 479 03 00, fax +386 (0)1 425 08 99, germanembassy-slovenia@ siol.net, www.laibach.diplo.de. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 09:00 - 12:00, Fri 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Favourite bar/club/pub? Druga Pomoč

Greece QK-4, Trnovski Pristan 14, tel. +386 (0)1420 14 00, fax +386 (0)1281 11 14, emb.gr.slo@siol.net. Open 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Favourite day trip from Ljubljana?

Soča river, either Kobarid or Bovec

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Favourite Slovenian gifts to take to friends/ family back home? Pumpkin seed oil

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Embassies & Expats Hungary QKonrada Babnika 5, tel. +386 (0)1512 18 82, fax +386 (0)1512 18 78, huemblju@siol.net. Open 08:00 - 16:30, Fri 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. India QL-3, Železna 16, tel. +386 (0)1 513 31 10, fax +386 (0)1 513 31 16, info@indianembassy.si, www.indianembassy.si.

Open 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. Indonesia (consulate) QB-4, Prešernova 11, tel. +386 (0)1 200 51 77, fax +386 (0)1 200 51 71, arne.mislej@ amis.si. Open , Tue 14:00 - 16:00, Thu 10:00 - 12:00.

Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. Iran QK-1, Tolstojeva 8, tel. +386 (0)1 589 71 00/+386 (0)30 60 30 12, fax +386 (0)1 589 71 06, infoslo@mfa. gov.ir. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ireland QE-3, Poljanski Nasip 6, tel. +386 (0)1 300 89 70, fax +386 (0)1 282 10 96, ljubljanaembassy@dfa.ie, www.irishembassy.si. Open 09:00 - 12:30; 14:30-16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Israel (consulate) QK-1, Dunajska 119, tel. +386 (0)1 566 10 20, fax +386 (0)1 566 10 21. Open 09:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Italy QB-4, Snežniška 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 21 94, fax +386 (0)1 425 33 02, archivio.lubiana@esteri.it. Open 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Japan QB-3, Trg republike 3/ XI, tel. +386 (0)1200 82 81, fax +386 (0)1251 18 22, info@embjp.si, www.si.emb-japan. go.jp. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 13:30-16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Jordan (consulate) QN-3, Zaloška 159, tel. +386 (0)4 167 93 33/(+) 386 1546 15 00, fax +386 (0)1546 15 05, samir. amarin@siol.com. Open 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Latvia QD-2, Tavčarjeva 10/7, tel. +386 (0)1 434 1620, embassy.slovenia@mfa.gov.lv, www.mfa.gov.lv. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Lithuania QC-5, Emonska 8, tel. +386 (0)1 244 56 00, fax +386 (0)1 244 56 03, amb.si@urm.lt, si.mfa.lt. Open 08:30 - 16:45, Fri 08:30 - 15:15. Closed Sat, Sun.

Useful Websites The following are a list of useful Slovene websites that we personally use on a regular basis. Not all of them are in English, but that’s not something Google Translate can’t help with.

Real Estate www.nepremicnine.net Online Marketplace www.bolha.com Electronics www.mimovrste.com Ride Sharing www.prevoz.org Live Bus Schedule bus.talktrack.com English Language News www.sloveniatimes.com Local Foodie Hub www.ljubljananjam.si Events Calendar www.napovednik.com Cultural Info Centre www.kic-ljubljana.si GLBT Sports & Recreation www.outinslovenija.com Event Tickets www.eventim.si

All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy

Luxemburg (Consulate)QB-3, Prešernova 11, tel. +386 (0)1 83 89 98 01/+386 (0)41 652 050, fax +386 (0)1 83 89 98 00, senozet@siol.net. Open Mon & Wed 09:00-12:00.

Online

Macedonia QJ-4, Rožna dolina, Cesta IV/2, tel. +386 (0)1 421 00 21, fax +386 (0)1 421 00 23, makamb@siol. net. Open 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Malta (consulate) QC-2, Kersnikova 11/+386 (0)41 444 014, sklesnik@yahoo.com.

Mexico (consulate) QB-3, Trg Republike 3, tel. +386 (0)1470 70 35, fax +386 (0)1252 26 55, marko.voljc@kbc.be.

Montenegro QF-2, Njegoševa 14, tel. +386 (0)1439 53 64, embamon-lj@t-2.net. Open 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Morocco (consulate) QJ-2, Bizjanova 2, tel. +386 (0)1581 63 00, fax +386 (0)1581 63 40, riko@riko.si.

Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Netherlands QC-2, Poljanski nasip 6, tel. +386 (0)1420 14 60, fax +386 (0)1420 14 70, lju@minbuza.nl, slovenia. nlembassy.org. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun Appointments only.

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New Zealand (consulate) QH-1, Verovškova 57, tel. +386 (0)1580 30 55, fax +386 (0)1568 10 86. Reached by phone 08:00-15:00.

Norway QD-2, Dalmatinova 10, tel. +386 (0)1232 74 10, fax +386 (0)1230 16 21, mirjan.kuhelj@siol.net, www.mfa.no. Open 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Mobile

Philippines (consulate) QH-1, Ulica Bratov Učakar 50, tel. +386 (0)1518 15 84, fax +386 (0)5971 09 26, kastelic.joze@volja.net. Open Wed, Thu 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Mon, Tue, Fri, Sat, Sun.

Ljubljana is (perhaps) the only city in the world where the US and Russian embassies are neighbours, with the former pictured here

68 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Poland QH-2, Bežigrad 10, tel. +386 (0)1 436 47 12, fax +386 (0)1436 25 21, ambpol.si@siol.net, www.lublana. polemb.net. Open Mon, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Europe’s biggest publisher of locally produced city guides italy.inyourpocket.com

Embassies & Expats real estate

Switzerland QB-3, Trg republike 3/ VI, tel. +386 (0)1200 86 40, fax +386 (0)1200 86 69, www.eda.admin. ch/ljubljana. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Thailand (consulate) QD-2, Pražakova 12, tel. +386 (0)1433 30 26, fax +386 (0)1433 31 93, info@tajska.si, www.tajska.si. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Stoja Real Estate Agency The most popular real estate agency in Ljubljana for foreigners, diplomats and local buisness people, Stoja has been operating in Slovenia since 1996, and specialises in both residential and commercial rental properties in the Slovene capital. They have a huge selection of houses, apartments and business premises, and will happily assist customers with all aspects of the rental process, as well as buying and selling property around the country.QDolenjska 242c, tel. +386 (0)1 28 00 860/+386 (0)41 652 141, fax +386 (0) 1 28 00 861, info@stoja-trade.si, www.rent-a-realestate. com. www.rent-a-realestate.com, www.dcs.si.

Turkey QD-1, Livarska 4, tel. +386 (0)1236 41 50, fax +386 (0)1436 52 40, embassy.ljubljana@mfa.gov.tr, ljubljana.emb.mfa.gov.tr. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ukraine QA-5, Teslova 23, tel. +386 (0)1421 06 04, fax +386 (0)1421 06 03, embassy.ua@siol.net, www.mfa. gov.ua/slovenia. Open , Mon, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. UK QB-3, Trg Republike 3/ 4, tel. +386 (0)1 200 39 10, fax +386 (0)1 425 01 74, info@british-embassy.si, ukinslovenia.fco.gov.uk. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. USA QB-3, Prešernova 31, tel. +386 (0)1200 55 00, fax +386 (0)1200 55 55, usembassyljubljana@state.gov, slovenia.usembassy.gov. There is no opening hours, but you have to announce.

Portugal QB-3, Trg Republike 3/X, tel. +386 (0)1479 05 40, fax +386 (0)1479 05 50, embportlju@siol.net. Open 09:00 - 13:00; 14:00-17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Vatican QD-3, Krekov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)1433 92 04, fax +386 (0)1431 51 30, apostolska.nunciatura@rkc.si.

Open 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Romania QH-1, Smrekarjeva 33A, tel. +386 (0)1505 82 94, fax +386 (0)1505 54 32, embassy.of.romania@siol. net.

Venezuela QC-5, Emonska 8, tel. +386 (0)82 051 280, fax +386 (0)1 200 67 22, emba.venez.eslovenia@siol.net.

Russia QA-2, Tomšičeva 9, tel. +386 (0)1425 68 75, fax +386 (0)1425 68 78, ambrus.slo@siol.net, www. veleposlanistvorusije.mid.ru/. Open 08:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Serbia QC-2, Slomškova 1, tel. +386 (0)1438 01 10, fax +386 (0)1434 26 88, amba.srbije.lju@siol.net, www. ambasadasrbije.si. Open 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Seychelles (consulate) QC-2, Slovenska cesta 5, tel./ fax +386 (0)1754 29 46, marko.smole@artcom.si. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Slovakia QA-3, Bleiweisova 4, tel. +386 (0)1425 54 25, fax +386 (0)1425 05 24, emb.ljubljana@mzv.sk, www. lublana.mfa.sk. Open , Mon, Wed, Fri 09:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. South Africa (consulate) QNazorjeva 6, tel. +386 (0)1241 77 00, fax +386 (0)1241 77 02.

South Korea (consulate) QB-3, Trg Republike 3, tel. +386 (0)4174 32 56, fax +386 (0)1425 92 94.

Spain QC-4, Trnovski pristan 24, tel. +386 (0)1420 23 30, fax +386 (0)1420 23 33, emba.espa.eslovenia@siol. net. Open 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sweden (consulate) QC/D-2, Kersnikova 6, tel. +386 (0)41 661 906/+386 (0)1 423 10 73, fax +386 (0)14 330 480. Open 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri, Sat, Sun. 70 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

STOJA TRADE d.o.o., Dolenjska cesta 242C, SI-1000 Ljubljana T: +386 1 2800 860, F: +386 1 2800 861 E: info@stoja-trade.si

Diplomatic Corporate Services Diplomatic Corporate S e r v ices S l o v enia Operated by Stoja Real Estate, as the name suggests Diplomatic Corporate Services is a web portal and associated service agency that aims to provide foreigners (primarily from the diplomatic and business community) living and travelling in Ljubljana and elsewhere in Slovenia with all the relevant information they could possibly need - from hotel and restaurant recommendations to real estate services and medical care. Their dedicated multi-lingual team is only a phone call or email away, while their website also provides a wealth of information.QDolenjska 244c, tel. +386 (0)1 2800 860, info@dcs.si, www.dcs.si. www.dcs.si. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

APARTMENTS I HOUSES I BUSINESS PREMISES I LAND

FOR RENT I FOR SALE I WE RENT I WE BUY Stoja Real Estate Agency is the most popular real estate agency in Ljubljana for foreigners, diplomats and local buisness people.

Stoja has been operating in Slovenia since 1996, and specialises in both residential and commercial rental properties in the Slovene capital. We have a huge selection of houses, apartments and business premises. Our agents will happily assist customers with all aspects of the rental process, as well as buying and selling property around the country.

www.stoja-trade.si I www.rent-a-realestate.com I www.dcs.si

Postojna

Postojna Sport Located just 200m from the centre of Postojna, and just a 10-minute walk from the region’s main attraction, the magnificent Postojna Cave, Hotel Sport is a good accommodation option with clean comfortable rooms and a very decent buffet breakfast thrown in. The hotel also lives up to its name by offering bicycle storage and rental, whilst the friendly staff are happy to arrange guided cycling or hiking tours in the beautiful countryside surrounding Postojna.QKolodvorska 1, tel. +386 (0)5 720 22 44, info@sport-hotel.si, www.epiceco-hotels.com. 38 rooms (singles €59-63, doubles €75-85, triples €103118, apartments €65-75).

Around Postojna Hotel Casino Safir Located in the town of Sežana, a stone’s throw from the Slovene-Italian border, as the name suggests the modern Hotel Casino Safir is geared towards casino goers. Rooms offer all the modern comforts, whilst if you’re lucky in the casino we suggest upgrading to a superior suit with Jacuzzi. Even if you’re not looking to win money, the hotel is actually a very good base for exploring some of the beautiful villages and natural sights nearby, while Trieste is less than 10km away.QPartizanska 149, Sežana, tel. +386 (0)5 731 44 44, info@safir.si, www.safir.si. 51 rooms (singles €69-75, doubles €97-109, suites €121-141).

Postojna is one of the few towns that still boasts a Tito Square - photo courtesy RDO Postojnska Jama - Zeleni Kras

With less than 10,000 inhabitants Postojna is barely one of the 20 largest towns in Slovenia, but arguably none are more well-known throughout that world (including the capital Ljubljana) than this relatively nondescript settlement in the southwest of the country that wasn’t even officially recognise until 1909. The reason of course it not so much the town itself, but the amazing network of karst caves that lie just below its surface. First opened to the public in 1819, the world-famous Postojna Cave is said to have attracted more than 35 million visitors over the past two centuries, with one of its first being Austro-Hungarian Emperor Francis I the year before it opened.

If this were not enough, Postojna is also blessed with another popular sight in its immediate vicinity, the magnificent Predjama Castle located some 11km to the northwest of the town centre. Built in the 13th century and partially situated under enormous natural stone arch, it’s not only a fine castle in its own right, but also sits atop another tourist cave and is also associated with several fascinating legends.While the vast majority of visitors come to Postojna just to see one or both of its star attractions, with three proper hotels and many other guesthouses and private accommodation options located in and around the town, it makes a good base for exploring parts of central Slovenia as well as the Karst region that extends towards the Adriatic Sea and Italy - Trieste actually being closer to Postojna than Ljubljana (35km and 54km away respectively).

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Where to stay Epicentre Despite the name, Epicentre isn’t quite in the centre of town, although as Postojna isn’t a metropolis the location is still walking distance to everything, and what’s more with a restaurant on the premises and a bowling alley right next door it could be considered the epicentre of entertainment in town. Most importantly the hotel provides comfortable and affordable accommodation.QKazarje 10, tel. +386 (0)5 700 22 00, booking@epicenter-on. net, www.epiceco-hotels.com. 16 rooms, 18 apartments (singles €59-63, doubles €75-85, triple €103-118, apartments €65-75). PTJLKW Kras This modern hotel is located in the centre of Postojna, just a few minutes on foot to the city’s famous cave, and near several good restaurants. The hotel’s café is also popular with locals and tourists for ice cream during the day and drinks at night. Kras offers everything you would expect from an upmarket hotel - spacious and comfortable rooms with modern furnishings, a decent continental breakfast and very friendly staff.QTržaška 1, tel. +386 (0)5 700 23 00, booking@hotel-kras.si, www.epiceco-hotels.com.

24 rooms, 3 suites (singles €71-87, doubles €89-109, suites €121-141). ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Mirjam Penzion & Wellness Set just underneath one of Slovenia’s most unique natural sights, the white limestone cliffs at the southern edge of the Nanos plateau, Mirjam is mini resort with budget accommodation in both standard guest rooms and a shared hostel-style dormitories, as well as a small campground with hookups for motorhomes, shower facilities and plenty of space for pitching a tent. QRazdrto 19, tel. +386 (0)41 684 988/+386 (0)5 75 77 200, mirjam.pavlin@siol. net, www.mirjam.si. Singles €35, doubles €44, dorms €12, campground €11/two persons (tent or camper).

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Where to eat Avio Pub Found just off the runway at Postojna’s small recreational airport, there’s a large garden out back where diners can watch the planes take off and land - many of which are taking visitors on panoramic flights. Despite the name, this place is a fullfledged pizzeria, steakhouse and wine bar, with pizzas coming crispy and hot from a wood-fired oven, steaks grilled to perfection and a wide selection of Slovene wine from the cellar.

From Tuesday to Friday there are multi-course lunch specials starting from only €6. Of course the cosy wood-covered interior is very pub-like in appearance, and there are four types of draught beer on hand for those who are thirsty.QRakitnik 1a, Prestranek, tel. +386 (0)5 720 13 10, info@aviopub.si, www. aviopub.si. Open 10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun and holidays 11:0023:00. Closed Mon. TLBS facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

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Postojna

Postojna

Postojnska Jama

Postojna Cave (Postojnska Jama) The largest cave in the karst region and most visited show cave in all of Europe, words on a page can hardly do justice to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20km of galleries have been found, of which barely a fraction are open to the public. All the same, a visit here still takes up much of a morning or an afternoon, as you make your way through the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by a dinky little narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. There are no stairs or difficult climbs along the path to or inside the cave, so visitors with limited mobility should not have any difficulties.

Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the cave was discovered in the 13th century, though never properly explored until the early 1800s. They opened as a tourist attraction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of Austria, among the first to visit. Bizarrely, so popular did the caves become that electric lights were fitted in 1884: some years before such technology was first deployed in Ljubljana itself.

Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalactites and stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, which can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down here are said to be sensational. Note that the temperature of the cave is a chilly 10°C, so bring a jumper. The caves are also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphibian endemic to the subterranean waters of caves of this part of Europe. The olms can be seen in some of the pools of water as you make your way around the cave. Though blind they are sensitive to flash photography and if you do spot one you should refrain from taking any photos.QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, info@postojnska-jama.si, www.postojnska-jama. eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov to March tours at 10:00, 12:00 and 15:00, in April and Oct at 10:00, 12:00, 14:00 and 16:00.

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Predjama Castle (Predjamski Grad) Located some 10km north of Postojna is one of Europe’s finest castles. Predjama Castle (or Predjamski grad, Höhlenburg Lueg and Castel Lueghi in Slovene, German and Italian respectively), was built in a Gothic style by the Patriarch of Aquileia sometime during the 13th century and first mentioned in the historical record in the year 1274. Perched under a natural archway 123m up a sheer cliff face and surrounded by a thick stone wall, throughout the centuries the castle has gained a well-deserved reputation for being virtually impregnable.

This fact was most popularly demonstrated during the 15th century by the more than year-long siege of Erazem Lueger, who was a knight and the son of the Imperial governor of Trieste, but had also a gained a reputation as a rather proficient robber baron throughout the Habsburg empire. It is said that in 1483, Erazem fled to the castle from Vienna after killing a Marshall of the Imperial Army who had insulted one of his friends, which brought about the wrath of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, who laid siege to the castle. However, thanks to a secret cave leading from the bowels of Predjama to Postojna Cave and then on to the nearby village of Vipava, Erazem was able to secure an steady supply of fresh food and water. Unfortunately for Erazem, his luck ran out when he was betrayed by one of his servants and unceremoniously killed by the shot of a single canon ball while on the toilette. In the years that followed, the castle was destroyed and rebuilt several times, before acquiring a Renaissance style in 1570, which has remained virtually unchanged to this day.

Nowadays the castle is open to the public and serves as a museum. It has been completely restored to its original grandeur, and among other sites visitors can see the residential quarters, the chapel and of course the dungeon. It is also possible to see the legendary cave below the castle, although some climbing and a minimal level of fitness is strongly encouraged if not required. QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, info@postojnska-jama.si, www. postojnska-jama.eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov to March open from 10:00 to 16:00, in April and Oct from 10:00 to 17:00, in May, June and Sept from 9:00 to 18:00, during July and Aug from 9:00 to 19:00.

Proteus Restaurant After a day spent exploring Postojna’s famous cave and other sights, treat yourself to a first-class meal at the newly renovated Proteus. Set in a old house that is typical for the region, the restaurant combines the traditional and modern with homemade local cuisine served in an elegant interior. Tables are separated by curtains of fine white string, which are meant to resemble the geological formations found inside the cave, and the walls are decorated with works of acclaimed Slovene painter Leo Vilhar.QTitov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)8 161 0300/+386 (0)40 457 483, info@ postojnska-jama.eu, www.postojnska-jama.eu.

Restaurant & Pizzeria Čuk This humble restaurant and pizzeria keeps things simple with good food and friendly service. Located on the edge of town, Čuk is popular with locals and visitors alike. On offer are a range of hearty Slovene dishes and excellent woodfired pizzas as well as tasty daily specials. The restaurant is great for families with a selection of kid’s meals and a playground to occupy the little ones before or after eating. If you are staying in town and don’t feel like heading out, Čuk also delivers.QPot v Pivki 4, tel. +386 (0)5 7201 300, pizzeria. cuk@siol.net, www.pizza-cuk.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.

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Around Postojna Dolenčevi Tourist Farm Slovenes are a rustic down to earth bunch with many families still growing their own veggies and producing homemade delicacies from salami to plum brandy. The Dolenčevi tourist farm, an ecological family-run estate 10km from Postojna, is the perfect place for visitors to experience this strong connection to the land and taste the fruits of their labour - the homegrown and prepared food at Dolenčevi is excellent, with the house-cured prosciutto and gnocchi with local game coming especially highly recommended. The farm is located in a tranquil forested area with great opportunities for hiking and riding (bike rental available), and the must-see Postojna and Škocjan caves are just a short drive away.QSajevče 8, Hruševje, tel. +386 (0)5 756 20 22, dolencevi@gmx.net, www. dolencevi.si. From €20/person, €24 with breakfast, €34 with half-board.

Morski Konjiček Found near the town of Pivka just off the main PostojnaPivka-Ilirska Bistrica road (some 15 minutes south of the A1 motorway), this sprawling countryside restaurant is a popular stop for Slovenes and tourists after a day at the coast. Given that its name translates ‘seahorse’ in English, it’s not surprising that fish and other seafood specialities are the main focus of the menu here, but for those who have already had their fill of such fare, there are plenty of other dishes and some fine pizzas. For families there’s a children’s playground for a before or after dinner romp, and for those who’d like to stay for a drink or five the place

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is open till the wee hours at the weekends.QMala Pristava 10, Pivka, tel. +386 (0)5 753 20 55/+386 (0)41 523 325, darija.hrvatic@telemach.net. Open 11:00-24:00, Fri 11:00-04:00, Sat 09:00-04:00, Sun 09:00-24:00. Closed Mon except for holidays.

Read more about Postojna online at postojna.inyourpocket.com

Restaurant Proteus Postojna

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Brdo: Domain of Delights new wellness centre and two conference halls. The rooms and suites are a great value, while the 200m2 presidential suite is true to its name, having accommodated a certain US leader during his stay in Slovenia in 2001.QPredoslje 39, tel. +386 (0)4 260 1000, hotel.brdo@gov.si, www. brdo.si. 78 rooms. PHARLKD

Fairy tale weddings are one of the many unique happenings at the Brdo Estate

One of the grandest estates in all of Slovenia, Brdo was originally built at the beginning of the 16th century by Habsburg nobleman Georg Egkh, and in the five centuries that followed it was home to several notable owners including the Zois family and the last monarchs of Serbia, the Karađorđević family. In more recently history, the estate served as one of the favourite residences of Yugoslav leader Josip Broz Tito and also famously hosted the first meeting between the then newly elected presidents of the United States and Russia, George Bush and Vladimir Putin. In 2008 a modern conference centre was built to accommodate the numerous high-level events that were held during Slovenia’s six month Presidency of the Council of the EU. The 500-hectare estate is administered by the Protocol Office of the Republic of Slovenia, and is the main venue for the state’s diplomatic events. However, for most of the year the well-kept grounds and it various facilities, including Brdo Castle itself, are open to the public. The site also includes the newly renovated four-star Hotel Brdo, which boasts a new wellness centre and fine restaurant.

Depending on visitors’ interests, the most impressive site at Brdo is either the magnificent grounds or Brdo Castle. In addition to its amazing location at the foothills of the Alps, the estate is criss-crossed with pathways that wind through pastures and gardens, around several lakes and through a large forested area. To traverse the park in style a carriage drawn by white Lipizzaner horses can be hired, as can small golf carts for those who prefer practicality to romance.

Meanwhile in the middle of it all sits the indelible castle.

Relatively modest in size and with an unembellished façade, the interior stands in stark contrast, as it was completely renovated and refurnished after WWII to reflect the tastes of Tito. It has been left more or less unchanged since his death in 1980, offering an intimate look into the life and times of one of the larger than life figures of the 20th century.

HOTEL Brdo Set just outside the entrance of the Brdo estate, Hotel Brdo offers unfettered access to all of the attractions within, from carriage rides drawn by famed white Lipizzaner horses and picnics in the park to the the modern conference centre and of course tours of the castle itself. Recent renovations have bestowed the hotel with all the modern comforts, and the premises also include a fine restaurant, 76 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Hotel Brdo Restaurant This newly renovated restaurant on the ground floor of Hotel Brdo (formerly Hotel Kokra) is a perfect place for lunch on a family trip to the adjacent Brdo Castle and Park. Decidedly high-end in appearance, service and cuisine, the menu boasts surprisingly affordable prices, especially during lunch at the weekends. If you’re looking for a more romantic and/or relaxing getaway, you can combine your meal with a trip to the onsite wellness centre, or a horse-drawn carriage ride through the park grounds.QPredoslje 39, Kranj, tel. +386 (0)4 260 1000, +386 (0)4 260 1672, hotel.brdo@gov.si, www.brdo. si. Open 07:00 - 22:00. PTALBW Strmol Castle Along the road connecting the villages of Češnjevek and Dvorje you will find the fairytale-like castle Strmol and its park.

Of the twelve medieval castles in the area this is the only one that survived the ravages of time and is still in tip-top condition, and is also one of the only castles in all of Slovenia that still includes its original furniture. After extensive renovations in 2012, the castle now boasts 11 guest suites, a beautiful dining room for lunch or gala dinners and modern conference facilities.QTel. +386 (0)4 260 1000, brdo-eu@gov.si, www.brdo. si. Open only for guided tours at 11:00 and 15:00 Mon-Sat, 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00 Sun & holidays, and by prior arrangement for larger groups.

Vrelec Brdo Wellness This wellness centre is one of the many facilities found at the magnificent Hotel Brdo, which is itself situated on the grounds of the Brdo Castle and Park - an historic estate just north of Kranj, some 30 minutes by car from Ljubljana. Vrelec offers a wide variety of massages and body care treatments, as well as Finnish and Turkish saunas, a whirlpool and a cold pool for those who are daring enough to take an invigorating dip.QPredoslje 39, Kranj, tel. +386 (0)4 260 18 16, vrelec.brdo@gov.si, www. brdo.si. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 22:00.

Vila Bled One of Tito’s former residences, the superb white marble Vila Bled has retained its grand 1950s Yugoslavian atmosphere.

On the edge of the lake amidst a wealth of beautiful trees a couple of kilometres from the town centre, the hotel comes with everything you’d expect from such a classy venture. The rooms have all been thoughtfully decorated with lots of brown touches and interesting carpets. Other attractions include such delights as the sumptuous à la carte restaurant, idyllic places to relax outside and top quality business facilities. They can also arrange a variety of activities and tours.QCesta Svobode 26, www.brdo.si. Open from 1 June till 31 October. 20 rooms, €145-550 with breakfast. HAR6LGKDW hhhh ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Prestige created over Centuries F O R Y O U TO EN J O Y TO D AY

Awaiting your visit in the rays of sunshine, crowned by glorious past, and carrying the tradition into present. Venues where the finest encounters of today’s business world and diplomacy have found its home. Our unique castles and villas are located in Slovenia, the very heart of Europe. With years-long experience of organising protocol events of the highest level, conferences and celebrations – we remain a trusted partner, always ready and honoured to host your event with the outmost of care and the highest quality of services.

Castle Brdo at Brdo Estate Signed with the seal of excellence.

Strmol Castle

Experience beyond compare.

Vila Bled

Timeless elegance.

JGZ Brdo – State Protocol Services of the Republic of Slovenia, Predoslje 39, SI-4000 Kranj, Slovenia Tel: +386 4 260 10 00 Fax: +386 4 202 15 51 email: brdo-eu@gov.si www.brdo.si

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Directory Currency exchange

Hospitals & Clinics

Menjalnica AŽURQM-2, Jurčkova cesta 225, tel. +386 (0)1428 03 42, azur@siol.net. Open 08:00 - 18:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Barsos-MC QB/C-4, Gregorčičeva 11, tel. +386 (0)12 42 07 00, fax +386 (0)1 242 07 44, www.barsos.net.

Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Primus GroupQC-1/2, Trg OF 6, tel. +386 (0)1432 10 14, menjalnica@siol.net. Open 07:00 - 20:00.

Health Centre Metelkova QF-2, Metelkova 9, C tel. +386 (0)1472 37 00, fax +386 (0)1472 38 90, center@ zd-lj.si, www.zd-lj.si.

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Publikum FINQC-2, Miklošičeva 34, tel. +386 (0)1300 60 80, menjalnica@publikum.si, www.publikum.si.

Open 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Express Mail DHLQŠpruha 19, Trzin, tel. +386 (0)1588 78 00, si.info@dhl. com, www.dhl.si. Open 09:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. FedExQM-3, Ob Železnici 14, tel. +386 (0)15 47 33 86, speed.fedex@siol.net.

KurirčekQtel. +386 (0)80 1881/+386 (0)51 44 45 55, narocila@kurircek.si, www.kurircek.si. Open 08:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tine ExpressQJ-1, Nadgoriških Borcev 34, tel. +386 (0)15 61 70 00, alenkatine@siol.net, www.tine.si. Open 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun By prior arrangemets also orders out of working hours.

TNT ExpressQM-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. +386 (0)15 87 83 00, info@tnt.si, www.tnt.si. Open 09:00 - 17:00 By prior arrangement deliveries also out of working hours.

UPS IntereuropaQLjubljana Airport, tel. +386 (0)42 81 12 00, www.ups-slovenia.com. Open 10:00 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Hair Salons RokSalonQStari Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)59 921 826, info@ roksalon.si, www.roksalon.si. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Stevo QC-2, Trubarjeva 44, tel. +386 (0)1 431 51 38, stevo@siol.net, www.stevo.si.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat Monolit2GO.pdf 1 22.10.2012 14:57:04 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

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VINSKA CESTA

CMY

Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna Dolina QJ-4, Y Rožna Dolina IV/45, tel. +386 (0)1477 94 00, info@ kirurski-sanatorij.si, www.kirurski-sanatorij.si.

CM University Medical Centre Ljubljana QF/G-2, MY Zaloška 2, tel. +386 (0)1522 50 50, info@kclj.si, www.kclj.si.

CY

Laundry & Dry Cleaning

CMY

Femiks QE-2, Kotnikova 18, tel. +386 (0)1230 18 K20, femiks@amis.net. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Operi in Posuši Ljubljana’s first self-service laundry facilities are located in the Mercator centre shopping complex opposite the main northern entrance to BTC City. Washing cost €3, and drying is €1 for 20 minutes, and there’s even free WiFi.QM-2, Beblerjev Trg 2 (TC Mercator), tel. +386 (0)64 116 341, info@operiinposusi.si, operiinposusi.si. Open Mon-Fri 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:0017:00 and Sun 08:00-12:00.

Libraries City Library (Mestna Knjižnica) The regional library for central Slovenia is the most popular library in the country, and has a wide range of English literature.QC2, Kersnikova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 600 13 00, info@mklj.si, www.mklj.si. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Narodna In Univerzitetna Knjižnica (National & University Library) Home of Slovenia’s written cultural heritage, this well-organised library is every researcher’s dream.QB-3, Turjaška 1, tel. +386 (0)1200 11 88, info@nuk.uni-lj.si, www.nuk.uni-lj.si.

Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Massage

C

TURISTIČNA CESTA

K

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com 78 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Directory

Ban Thai Whether you’re jet-lagged, sore from skiing or stressed out from work, nothing is more relaxing than a good massage, and from what we hear Ban Thai have some of the best masseurs in Ljubljana. Ban Thai as the name alludes specialise in the ancient art of Thai massage which like a good Thai curry strikes the perfect balance between pain and pleasure, deeper and more rigorous than other massages it’s the perfect remedy for stress and an aching body.QK5, Barjanska 56, tel. +386 (0)64 142 142/+386 (0)59 045 870, salon@banthai.si, www.banthai.si. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Mobile Phones Debitel QŽelezna cesta 18, tel. +386 (0)1306 01 00, center@debitel.si, www.debitel.si.

Hotpoint charger Did you forget your mobile phone charger at home, or have you just found yourself out and about in the city with a dead battery? No need to fret, the folks at Hotpoint have just what you need at more than a dozen strategic locations around Ljubljana: universal chargers for not only your phones, but many other electronic devices (cameras, MP3 players, tablets, etc) as well. The free to use stations are set to give batteries a quick charge in about 15 minutes, and a full map of all charging station locations can be found on their website and Facebook page.Qtel. +386 (0)70 797 700, info@ hotpoint.si, www.hotpoint.si.

Lekarna Ljubljana (Lekarna pri polikliniki) QF-2, Prisojna 7, tel. +386 (0)1230 61 00, lekarna. poliklinika@lekarna-lj.si, www.lekarna-lj.si. Open 24hrs.

Lekarna Miklošič QD-2, Miklošičeva 24, tel. +386 (0)1230 61 00, lekarna.miklosic@lekarna-lj.si, www.lekarnalj.si. Open 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Shoe repair Aleš Cevljar We can’t honestly say we know much about the art of mending shoes, but we’ve been going to this guy for years now and he’s never let us down. He also charges so little that we almost feel guilty. Definitely recommended!QE-2, Barvarska Steza 5, tel. +386 (0)40 241 282, ales.beljan@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Mobitel QD-1, Vilharjeva 25, tel. +386 (0)1472 23 20, info@mobitel.si, www.mobitel.si. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Translators

Tušmobil QJ-2, Brnčičeva 49, tel. +386 (0)80 700 700, www.tusmobil.si.

Alkemist QJ-2, Obirska 4, tel. +386 (0)1 514 16 78, info@alkemist.si, www.alkemist.si.

Vodafone SimobilQB-3, Prešernov Trg, tel. +386 (0)1426 71 02, info@simobil.si, www.simobil.si. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Kibord Kibord employs a dynamic young team of translators, interpreters and proofreaders, who are fast, reliable and most importantly accurate - which is why they are our company of choice when we need translation for our guides. Extras include bulk discounts for larger orders and first-time customers, free binding for students and a generally creative approach to problem solving difficult jobs. Translation to and from more than a dozen languages are regularly offered, and if you need something more obscure they can do that too with some advance notice.QStranska Vas 17b, Dobrova pri Ljubljani, tel. +386 (0)40 747 447, info@kibord.si, www.kibord.si.

Pharmacies Central Pharmacy (Centralna Lekarna) QD-3, Prešernov Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1230 61 00, lekarna. ljubljana@lekarna-lj.si, www.lekarna-lj.si. Open 07:30 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun 1.5.-15.9. open Mon. Fri 07:30-20:00. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

February - March 2014

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MONOLIT

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