Ljubljana In Your Pocket - October/November 2014

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Ljubljana October - November 2014

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Gourmet Explore the finest cuisine Slovenia has to offer

Health Spas

Reinvigoration personified with Slovenia’s health spas

FREE COPY

Issue N°38

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Argentino / Ĺ martinska 152 (BTC) / 1000 Ljubljana / Slovenija

Typical style of an Argentinian hacienda. Always fresh meat, best quality beef from Argentina. Indulge yourself with our grilled specialities. Old Argentinian recipes, on typical grills imported from Argentina. Wine Cellar with over 130 Argentinian Wines

www.argentino.si / mobile: +386 31 600 900

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

City Basics 7 The immediate need-to-knows

Arrival & Transport 8 Planes, trains, buses, taxis and transfers

Culture & Events Live Music Listings Cultural centres and venues

12 12 18

Gourmet 20 Explore Slovenia’s culinary world

Restaurants 34 Everything from A to V(egetarian)

Cafés 52 Enjoy one of Ljubljana’s favourite pastimes

Nightlife 55 Dance and drink the night away

Sightseeing 58 Bridges, museums and the castle

Shopping 66 Where to go and what to buy

The idyllic Ljubljanica lazily drifts through the centre of town

Hotels 70 Business suites to hostel bunks

Embassies & Expats 76 A special feature for foreign residents

Postojna 79 Home of the world famous cave

Brdo Pri Kranju 82 The domain of delights

Slovenian Spas 84 The ultimate relaxation

Directory

87

Maps & Index

Dubrovnik and Neretva County Tourist Board www.visitdubrovnik.hr

City map

88

City centre map

90

Ljubljana’s graceful city hall

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October - November 2014

5

Foreword

City Basics

Summer is done here in Ljubljana, and whilst we’ll still try to wring the final drops of excellent weather out it is fair to say that the action will begin to move inside as we prepare for another winter. This isn’t to say that the fun, games and excitement are over however! October and November will see a glut of festivals, events and goings on, enough to keep our calendars full of excitement.

Our second annual gourmet feature is included within, where we take another look at the wonderful cuisine on offer throughout the regions of Slovenia. The venerable Uroš Mencinger was kind enough to help us out on the feature, and whilst it is by no means a comprehensive guide it should be more than enough to provide a concise introduction to all things edible in the country. The length and breadth of Slovenia is covered, from the coast to the Alps to the east to the south and everything in between.

The autumn months also see a plethora of excellent gigs coming to town, many of which have us practically salivating in anticipation of. Synthpop heroes Future Islands are the next on our list, to be followed by the always exciting Liars and US riff-monsters Helmet later in the month. We were once told that there wasn’t a riff worth writing that Helmet hadn’t already written, and we’re inclined to agree.

We have all the sights, sounds and tastes of the country covered, as well as moving our spa feature from thermal to the health variety. We hope we’ve provided more than enough to make your stay in Ljubljana as fulfilling as possible, and of course anything that didn’t make it into the physical guide can be found by heading to our website.

As usual, we welcome and encourage any and all feedback through the usual routes, be that Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Foursquare, Email, handwritten love letters or messages in bottles drifting down the Ljubljanica.

Temperature, °C

Publisher E S S E N TI A L Ljubljana In Your Pocket C I TY G U I D E S Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia Tel. +386 30 316 602/+386 (0)30 31 66 07 ljubljana@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc., niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com ISSN 1855-3486 ©IQBATOR d.o.o.

Printed Evrografis d.o.o.

Published Published six times per year Editorial Editor John Bills Writer John Bills, Will Dunn, Craig Turp, Richard Schofield, James Cosier, Yuri Barron Design Vaida Gudynaitė Consulting Craig Turp Photography Ljubljana tourism, Dunja Wedam, Tadej Mulej, Urša Culiberg, Branka Jovanović, John Bills.

Cover photo ©Tomo Jesenicnik / Shutterstock Sales & Circulation Sales & Operations Management Irena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar, Stanka Parkelj Rozina Copyright notice Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).

ESTONIA RUSSIA

LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

6 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Rainfall, mm

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We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world. The publication earlier this year of guides to Johannesburg and to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first guides in the Southern Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket). ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

B Outside seating

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old town location

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D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

Crime and safety Ljubljana is one of the safest capital cities in the world, with the only prevalent crime being bicycle theft, which is unlikely to affect short term visitors. Nowhere in the city is unsafe to walk at at any hour, although if you’re by yourself it’s probably best to avoid certain parts of Tivoli Park in the middle of the night. The only real threat to safety in the city comes from out-of-control cyclists and negligent drivers not paying attention to pedestrians. Perhaps a secondary menace are slow-to-react automatic doors that seem to be installed in shops across Ljubljana - causing hurried consumers much grief and the rare minor injury.

Drinking Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and sadly after 21:00 it cannot be bought in stores.

Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 eu-

basic data Population Slovenia 2,048,951 (2011 estimate) Ljubljana 280,140 (2011 estimate) Area 20,273 square kilometres Ethnic composition Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%, Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7% Official languages Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian Local time Central European (GMT + 1hr) Longest river Sava (221km in Slovenia) Highest mountain Triglav 2,864m.

Borders Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km, Croatia 670km facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

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Money

Maps Monolit d.o.o.

About IYP

LATVIA

SYMBOL key

Climate

ros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated with among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses, a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik design.

Smoking Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.

Toilets Clean and pleasant public toilets can be found at Dragon Bridge (07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plečnik Passageway west of Zvezda Park (07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) and at Triple Bridge (07:00 - 21:00).

Exchange rates 1 EUR € = 0.79 UK £ = 1.29 US $ = 1.20 CHF = 7.89 CNY = 139 ¥ = 118 дин = 49 руб (22 September 2014)

Market Values Compared to the rest of Western and Central Europe, prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite noticeable increases since the introduction of the Euro in 2007. Here are some typical everyday products and prices:

Product Price McDonald’s Big Mac €2.40 Slice of pizza € 1.80 Slice of burek € 2.00 Cup of coffee € 1.10 Bottle of name brand vodka € 12.50 Decent bottle of local wine € 3.50 Bottle of local beer in a shop € 1.10 Pint of beer in a pub € 2.70 Pack of cigarettes € 3.20 Single bus ride € 1.20 Movie ticket € 4.90 Litre of petrol € 1.49 Taxi ride across town € 5.00 October - November 2014

7

Best Airport Transport 2014 In the latest in our series of Best of Ljubljana polls, we set out to find the best transport options for getting to and from Jože Pučnik airport, just 26km outside of the city centre. The contenders were compiled by our editorial team in three categories, each with a real plethora of options. If you ever wondered who were the best airport shuffle, the best car rental service or the best taxi company in Ljubljana, wonder no more. The people have spoken, and the results are in.

Best Airport Shuttle

Arriving & Getting Around Best Car Rental

We recently had the pleasure of chatting to Marko from GoOpti, winners of our Best Airport Shuttle Transfer poll for 2014. The full interview can be read at our website’

Avant Winners of our Best Car Rental poll for 2014, Avant offer vehicles of all shapes and sizes, with something to fit the needs of any prospective driver. Only the most respected and renowned international manufacturers make up their regularly renewed fleet, and they have an outstanding history and reputation for quality and service. Deserved winners of our vote, to say the least.QL-1, Dunajska 140, tel. +386 (0)1 589 08 50, avantcarl@avantcar.si, www. nationalcar-slovenia.com. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. Airport office tel. (04) 589 08 68, open 08:00 - 22:00.

Best Taxi

GoOpti This new low cost airport shuttle service offers transfers to and from airports in neighbouring countries.

Departures can be booked between Ljubljana to nearly 20 airports in the region, including Venice, Munich and Vienna, using GoOpti’s novel online booking system.

Rates begin at as little as €9 per person.Qtel. +386 (0)1 320 45 30, info@goopti.com, www.goopti.com.

01-320-45-30

GoOpti.com Low cost shuttle to Slovenia

Venice from Ljubljana 14 € 8 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Interview

First things first, congratulations from everyone here at Slovenia In Your Pocket on winning our Best Airport Shuttle poll with a whopping 49.08%.

Thank you. Yes, our team of 93 drivers and 26 people in 4 offices in Ljubljana, Maribor, Portorož and Zagreb work daily to make sure our passengers are transported safely and on time from their starting point to their final destination. We are happy our clients see the effort and rewarded us with such percentage!

Maybe we could start by getting to know the history of GoOpti?

At the beginning in 2008 we could see there was a huge demand for a long distance shuttle connecting airports further away. We wanted to do it right, where the service could be booked online and we could guarantee a quality service. We spent three years creating and perfecting the concept and the smart engine for low cost pricing, and then we launched GoOpti in 2011 with just one van. But the long preparations were worth it! We were growing with one van per month and introducing new routes every 3 months. Now we have over 50 vehicles!

Are there any future plans to expand out to more countries, or even more airports and towns within the countries you currently service?

We are currently opening new routes to spas and other major tourist destinations. From the beginning of 2015 the plan is to open new routes in Italy and Croatia. Towards the end of 2015 or beginning of 2016 our plan is to grow into Austria, East Germany and Poland.

Metro Taxi Proud winners of our Best Taxi Service poll for 2014, Metro Taxi are widely regarded as the cheapest taxi in town. This doesn’t necessarily mean they are lacking in quality however, with an efficient call centre as well as some of the most interesting taxi drivers the city has to offer. Good service, cheap rides and good conversation. What more does one want from a taxi?QM-3/4, Litijska 16, tel. +386 (0)80 11 90/+386 (0)4 124 02 00, taxi@metroprevozi.net, www.metroprevozi.net/TaxiPrevozi.htm. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Do you get to travel much yourself, or even see more of Slovenia? What are your favourite tourist spots in the region?

I have two sons, one is two years old and the other is just five months, so unfortunately life right now is just work and family. Hopefully soon we can start travelling again, as a family. We live in the centre of Ljubljana and I love it. Everyday we meet with our friends in bars like Prulček, Tozd, Jazz club Gajo or we visit Tivoli park, the castle or just stroll around. We like to go to swim in Izola in the summer and Gozd Martuljek to ski in the winter.

Thanks for your time, and congratulations once more on your In Your Pocket poll success!

For the complete interview, head to our website.

Congratulations Marko and the GoOpti team!

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October - November 2014

9

Arriving & Getting Around

Arriving & Getting Around

Arriving in Ljubljana

A Word From Our Mayor

Arriving by plane Ljubljana’s cosy little Jože Pučnik Airport is 26km northwest of the city, near Brnik. Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00).

Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule.

Ljubljana Airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika)QZgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 20 610 00, fax +386 (0)4 20 212 20, info@lju-airport.si, www.lju-airport.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

For me, Ljubljana is the most beautiful city in the the world – unique for its special position in the heart of Slovenia.

As a city with rich history and cultural heritage, it attracts ever more visitors every year from near and far. The most important ambassadors for Ljubljana are undoubtedly our residents, who live the intercultural dialogue and with their openness, kindness, and hospitality always ensure a touch of comfort and warmth.

Arriving by train Once you’ve worked out the tunnel and stair system and made it to the main train station building, find everything you need including an ATM and press stand selling top-up cards (but alas no SIM cards) for prepaid SIM accounts. Left luggage is provided courtesy of 80 coin-operated lockers with instructions in English on platform Nº1, with the toilets conveniently located next door. Getting to town depends as always on where you’re planning to stay and how fit you are. Many central hotels are within reasonable walking distance. Alternatively, find taxis outside, and make sure the meter is running before you depart.

Train Station (Železniška Postaja)QE-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte, tel. +386 (0)1291 33 32, www. slo-zeleznice.si. Open 05:00 - 22:00.

Arriving by bus All national and international buses arrive at the central bus station which is located directly in front of the main train station. The ‘temporary’ prefabricated station building features little in the way of facilities for recent arrivals, making a trip to the train station almost compulsory. Perhaps the only one of its kind in the world, the bus station does however contain a Sixt car rental kiosk, with the only other useful facility being a small internet café for which tickets can be acquired from ticket window Nº1.

Getting to town is the same as described above.

Ljubljana Bus Station (Avtobusno Postajališče)QD/E-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 4, tel. +386 (0)1 234 46 00, avtobusna.postaja@ ap-ljubljana.si, www.ap-ljubljana.si. Open 05:00 22:30, Sat 05:00 - 22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30.

Arriving by car Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and excellent signposting. The city is circled by a ring road from where it’s easy to get to the centre. Simply follow the parking signs for convenient places to leave your car near the city centre. Once in the city, it’s best to walk the short distances rather than drive through the heavy traffic and narrow street. Also, if you’re staying in Old Ljubljana be aware that it is largely a pedestrian only zone.

10 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Welcome to Ljubljana!

Zoran Janković Mayor

Public Transport Although most of Ljubljana’s sights are within easy walking distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of people (and you can trust us as we’re proud card carrying members of both groups), there is a far-reaching and fairly efficient bus network for reaching attractions farther afield, such as the Zoo, BTC shopping centre or even distant Šmarna Gora, or for those interested in seeing what the city looks like outside the city centre. Although you may be lucky enough to see some Titoera antiques plying the roads, the entire fleet is currently being

Urbana Card The city bus operator, LPP, has finally introduced the longawaited Urbana Card, a form of electronic ticketing that will eventually replace the previous hodge-podge system of payment that included tokens, coins and photo ID cards. The credit card-sized smart card is similar to those already used in other cities, such as London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass. The cards can be purchased for a one-time fee of €2 at many locations including various tobacconists and news-stands, tourist offices, the central bus station and LPP offices at Bavarski Dvor and Celovška Cesta 160. Credit can be added for any amount between €1-50 at these same locations as well as some three dozen green Urbanomati machines scattered around town. When getting on the bus simply touch the card to one of the green card readers at the front entrance and €1.20 will be deducted from the card allowing 90 minutes of travel, including unlimited transfers. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

modernised, so most of the time you can expect a comfortable ride. Schedules are displayed at all stops, and fares can only be paid using an Urbana Card or a Slovene mobile phone.

Car Rental Europcar QK-2, Celovška 268, tel. +386 (0)59 070 500, reservations@europcar.si, www.europcar.si. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. (04) 236 79 90, open 08:00-21:00.

Atet QJ-2, Devova 6a, tel. +386 (0)1 513 70 17, sales@atet. si, www.atet.si. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Sixt QD-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 5, tel. +386 (0)1 234 46 50, info@sixt.si, www.sixt.si. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Transfers Na LetaliŠČe Getting to and from the airport is always a source of consternation for many travellers. Na Letališče is here to take

that anxiety away, offering a comfortable shuttle service to and from Ljubljana airport, as well as many others in the area including Trieste, Venice and Vienna. Prices are fixed, starting at €8, and discounts are on offer for larger groups.

A free bottle of water is even provided.Qtel. +386 (0)40 93 53 85, info@naletalisce.si, www.naletalisce.si.

Taxis Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable. The starting rate is usually between €0.80-1.50 with a per kilometre rate of €0.70-1.70, depending on the company, time of day and number of passenger. Waiting usually costs €1520 per hour. Ordering a taxi by phone will get you lower rates for longer distance trips.

Laguna Taxi.QJ-1, Celovška 228, tel. +386 (0)31 492 299/+386 (0)1 511 23 14, fax +386 (0)1 511 23 14, taxi.laguna@siol.net, www.taxi-laguna.com.

Taxi BrnikQtel. +386 (0)41 755 539/+386 (0)41 606 716, taxibrnik@siol.net, www.taxibrnik.com.

Taxi RondoQtel. +386 (0)70 900 900/+386 (0)31 225 588, info@taxi-rondo.si, www.taxi-rondo.si.

Parking Garages PH Kapitelj The garage is only 100m or so from the famous Dragon Bridge and Tržnica market. While there are only 261 spaces, you can normally find a free one.QE-3, Poljanski nasip 4, tel. +386 (0)1 360 36 48/+386 (0)51 366 510, phkapitelj@kranjska-id.com, www.parkiraj.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

PH Meksiko A large modern facility situated adjacent to the Slovenia’s main medical facilities and just down the street from the central bus and railway stations. There are a total of 624 spaces, and the ground floor is home to a popular German supermarket.QF-2, Njegošova 4, tel. +386 (0)1 600 40 38/+386 (0)51 366 510, phmeksiko@kranjska-id.com, www.parkiraj.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

PH Šentpeter Situated near the University of Ljubljana Medical facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Centre at the intersection of Zaloška and Njegoševa Streets, Šentpeter Parking House boasts some 500 parking spaces.QF-3, Zaloška 1, tel. +386 (0)1 430 59 02/+386 (0)5 136 65 10, phsentpeter@ kranjska-id.com, www.parkiraj.si. Open 00:00 24:00.

PH Trdinova Only a short walk from the Ljubljana Stock Exchange, main courthouse and various corporate head offices, the Trdinova Parking House has near 1200 spaces.

QD-2, Trdinova 9, tel. +386 (0)1 230 96 00/+386 (0)5 136 65 10, phtrdinova@kranjska-id.com, www.parkiraj.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

From 07:00-19:00 €2 per hour, from 19:00-07:00 the first four hours are €1 per hour, while additional hours are €0.50. The daily rate is €32, while monthly fees are as low as €150.

October - November 2014

11

Culture & Events

24th Biennial of Design Ljubljana, Slovenia

Clockwise from left to right - US riff lords Helmet, Dr John and the Nite Trippers, noisemongers Liars and synthpop chaps Future Islands hit the Kino Šiška stage

Live Music in October 1 Oct - Billy Martin’s Wicked Knee @ Kino Šiška

Live Music in November

3 Oct - Cirkusz-KA @ Prulček

4 Nov - Han Bennink & Uri Caine @ Cankarjev Dom

5 Oct - Girl Band @ Kino Šiška

5 Nov - Uroš Barič @ Ljubljana Castle

6 Oct - Entombed A.D @ Gala Hala 7 Oct - Lula Pena @ Cankarjev Dom

6 Nov - Michael Buble @ Stožice Sports Park

9 Oct - Zavoloka & Laetitia Morais @ Kino Šiška

8 Nov - Dr John & The Nite Trippers @ Kino Šiška

10 Oct - Dillon @ Kino Šiška

8 Nov - Merchandise @ Channel Zero

11 Oct - Enter Shikari @ Kino Šiška

11 Nov - Antoine Berjeaut @ Cankarjev Dom

12 Oct - Future Islands @ Kino Šiška 13 Oct - Joan Baez @ Cankarjev Dom

13 Nov - Blue Subscription @ Cankarjev Dom

16 Oct - Swans @ Kino Šiška

16 Nov - One Republic @ Stožice Sports Park

19 Oct - Monkey3 @ Klub Gromka

18 Nov - Triggerfinger @ Cvetličarna Mediapark

20 Oct - Liars @ Kino Šiška 21 Oct - Najoua @ Celica 22 Oct - Tedi Spalato @ Kavarna Slamič

23 Nov - Vocal Subscription @ Slovenska Filharmonija

23 Oct - Within Destruction @ Klub Gromka

25 Nov - Neca Falk @ Cankarjev Dom

24 Oct - Helmet @ Kino Šiška 28 Oct - Štefan Kovač Marku Banda @ Cankarjev Dom 30 Oct - Maybeshewill @ Channel Zero 12 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

27 Nov - Einsturzende Neubauten @ Kino Šiška 27 Nov - Orange Subscription @ Cankarjev Dom ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

18. 9.—7. 12. 2014 www.bio.si

Culture & Events The one-time home of the Austrian composer Gustav Mahler, Ljubljana continues to inspire, nurture and produce a wide and eclectic mix of creative individuals and groups. Whether it’s the work of the Slovenian artists Richard Jakopič or Ivana Kobilca you’re here to see, or if you simply want to watch the latest Hollywood film, Ljubljana provides everything you need and more besides.

For more cultural information - including museums, art galleries and churches - take a look at the Sightseeing section of this guide. For a complete list of galleries, theatres and much more in town, head to our website for more information.

Festivals 02.10 Thursday - 12.10 Friday City of Women Celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2014, the beginning of October will see various venues in Ljubljana taken over by the City of Women, an arts (everything that comes under that bracket) festival focusing on the position of women in art and society. Showcasing the work of women in art, theory and activism, the 20th anniversary provides a chance to look at what has been accomplished as well as assessing what is to come. The theme this year is ‘Survival Tactics’, and it promises to be a thought-provoking affair. For a full timetable of shows, head to the official website.QVarious venues, tel. +386 (0)1 438 15 80/+386 (0)40 81 64 47, info@ cityofwomen.org, www.cityofwomen.org.

Exhibitions in October and November Until 26 Oct - Aquae Lasae @ Cankarjev dom Until 30 Oct - The Remains of a City @ Tivoli Park Until 1 Nov - Rabih Mroué - Retrospective Exhibition @ City Art Gallery Until 2 Nov - Andrej Jemec: Geometry and Handwriting 1967 - 83 @ International Centre of Graphic Arts Until 31 Dec - Doors. Spatial and Symbolic Passageways @ Slovene Ethnographic Museum Until 31 Jan 2015 - The Magic of Amulets @ Slovene Ethnographic Museum Until 9 Feb 2015 - The Mummy and the Crocodile @ National Museum of Slovenia - Metelkova Until 31 May 2015 - Emona: A City of the Empire @ City Museum of Ljubljana Until 15 Sep 2015 - Long Live the Evolution! @ Slovene Museum of Natural History Until 2 Dec 2015 - Ana and Teddy: Bear in Slovenia @ Technical Museum of Slovenia 14 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

12.11 Wednesday - 23.11 Sunday LIFFE - Ljubljana International Film Festival (Ljubljanski Mednarodni Filmski Festival) Taking place this coming November at five cinemas across Ljubljana (as well as one in Maribor), the years LIFFE is sure to live up to the expectations built over its proud 25 year history. The program is yet to be announced, but expect over 100 films from all over the world to be shown. Stay tuned to the website for the latest developments.QCankarjev dom, liffe@cd-cc.si, www.liffe.si.

20.11 Thursday - 21.11 Friday 17th Slovenian Wine Festival Slovenia’s largest wine-related event has been promoting the culture of wine drinking for over a decade, and this year’s festival will be the biggest yet. Held at one of Ljubljana’s most prestigious hotels, the event brings together diverse participants and attendees from the wine industry, media and interested consumers, and aims to both raise awareness of wine drinking - especially among younger people - and help facilitate business partnerships between producers, caterers and wholesalers as well as offer new opportunities for development of the wine business. See their website for registration information and current list of exhibitors.QC/D-3, Hotel Union, info@ slovenskifestivalvin.si, slovenskifestivalvin.si.

Exhibitions 21.06 Saturday - 15.05 Friday We Never Imagined Such A War Commemorating the 100-year anniversary of the outbreak of World War One, ‘We Never Imagined Such A War’ is a thought-provoking exhibition on show at the National Museum of Contemporary History. Pieced together from the personal stories of both civilians and conscripts, the terrible journey across the battlefield is brought to life by photographs and the personal objects of those most affected. Archive footage and documentaries are also on show, including a five-part film produced by RTV Slovenia.

Learn more about the war that saw the death of AustriaHungary and the birth of a new era for Slovenia.QNational Museum of Contemporary History, Celovška 23, www.muzej-nz.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. 18.09 Thursday - 07.12 Sunday BIO50 (24th Ljubljana Biennial of Design) Established in 1963, the Ljubljana Biennial of Design is one of the longest running international design events doing the rounds. An event can only stay relevant by keeping on top of the most current developments, something that is managed here with ease. Organised by the Museum of Architecture and Design and taking a unique look at international design, 2014 sees the 50th anniversary of this prestigious event, and a stringent selection process guarantees only the finest projects will be showcased.

Open to the public from September 18th, the six-month working process of 11 teams will be officially unveiled, with many events marking this opening. 100 multidisciljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Ustanoviteljica

Culture & Events

Foto: Primož Lukežič. Oblikovanje: Miha Kosmač

KDO SO NAŠI HEROJI?

plinary participants from 20 countries are taking part, covering a variety of fascinating themes including ‘Walking the City’, ‘ Nanotourism’ and ‘Hacking Households’. After all, 50-year anniversaries only happen once, so why not go all out.QPot na Fužine 2, tel. +386 (0)1 548 42 83/+386 (0)31 72 34 41, bio@mao.si, www.bio.si.

Special Events Artish A free monthly event that brings together Ljubljana’s arts community and the general public for a day of art, music, theatre and fun. Local artists and craftsmen display and sell their work, while also leading free creative workshops on different topics each month, organising fun activities for children, raising money for charity and of course discussing their art. Held the last Saturday of every month, in autumn the event moves indoors to Kino Šiška.

QVarious venues, www.artish.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

Admission free.

Galleries These are some of the city’s more established smaller galleries - most of which have art available for purchase. For info on larger galleries and museums please refer to the Sightseeing section, and for many more venues head to our website.

Aksioma Project Space Operated by the Aksioma Institute for Contemporary Arts - a non-profit cultural institution based in Ljubljana - the 16 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Slovenian Philharmonic

gallery is interested in projects that take advantage of new technologies in order to investigate and discuss the structures of (post)modern society. Exhibitions usually concentrate on artistic production that explores social, political, aesthetic and ethical concerns.QD/E-2, Komenskega 18, tel. +386 (0)590 54 360/+386 (0)590 17 010, projectspace@aksioma.org, www.aksioma.org.

Open 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. BeArtAngel This little gallery on Gornji trg in Ljubljana’s old town is the peaceful sanctuary of local Slovene artist Božidar A. Kolerič, who paints under the name BeArtAngel. Kolerič has spent his life exploring creativity and life energy, and BeArtAngel represents his latest artistic endeavour. The paintings, which are known around the world, are said to represent unseen energies and can support people in achieving inner peace. If it all sounds a little confusing then worry not, Kolerič is on hand at the gallery and happy to explain the meaning behind BeArtAngel and each painting’s energies. The famed ‘Mosaics of Intention’, the work of Sebastian Žvanut aided by thruly unique lighting created by Jonathan Kuk, are also available to view and purchase.QD-4, Gornji Trg 19, tel. +386 (0)41 764 352, beartangel@gmail.com, www. beartangel.si. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Mon, Sun. Jakopič Galerija A branch of the City Museum of Ljubljana, the Jakopič Gallery hosts exhibitions of contemporary art and design by Slovenian and international artists. The programme of exhibitions focuses on the role of contemporary art in its local environment.QC-4, Slovenska 9, tel. +386 (0)1 24 12 500, info@mestnimuzej.si, www. mestnimuzej.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

Season 2014/15 Blue Orange Vocal T 00 386 1 24 10 800 F 00 386 1 24 10 900 info@filharmonija.si www.filharmonija.si Conductors (Slovenian Philharmonic Orchestra)

Philipp von Steinaecker Frédéric Chaslin, Tan Dun, Ignjat Solženicin, Ari Rasilainen, Hans Graf, Dmitrij Sitkovecki, Keri-Lynn Wilson, Martina Batič

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Conductors (Slovenian Chamber Choir)

Vladimir Kranjčević, Tõnu Kaljuste, Fernando P. Mejias, Marko Vatovec, Martina Batič

Soloists

Aleksander Markovič, Martina Filjak (piano), Alban Gerhardt (cello), Boris Brovcin (violin), Miha Rogina (saxophone), Aleš Kacjan (flute), Bernarda Fink, Monika Bohinec (mezzosoprano), Lydia Teuscher, Maida Hundeling (soprano), VOCES8 (vocal group)…

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bUY Tickets Eventim Online ticket sales for more than 3,000 events per year, including concerts, sports, and cultural events across Slovenia and Central Europe. Check the offer of events and buy tickets before you even arrive in Slovenia.

QB-1, Celovška 25, tel. +386 (0)14 30 24 05, info@ eventim.si, www.eventim.si/portal/en.

Tourist Information Centre The helpful staff at Ljubljana’s main tourist information centre can answer pretty much any question you have about the city, provide you with maps and countless other brochures, and also sell tickets for concerts, shows and various other events.QD-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. +386 (0)13 06 12 15, tic@visitljubljana.si, www.visitljubljana.si.

Open October-May 08:00-19:00, June-September 08:00-21:00. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Other events

16th Slowind Festival 2014 Confronting Silence - Music from Japan Artistic Director Robert Aitken 1st Philharmonic Festival of Baroque Music, Artistic Director Matej Šarc

Culture & Events

Culture & Events Youth Theatre (or SMG, for short) has been active for well over 50 years and shows no sign of slowing down.

Known for working with stage directors who aren’t afraid to push boundaries and explore the avant-garde, its current season flies under the title of ‘Who Are Our Heroes?’, with productions exploring the concept of heroism in the modern age.

October sees two brand new premieres hitting the theatre. The first, ‘Nora Gregor - Skriti kontinent spomina’ (Hidden Continent of Memory) looks at the life of Nora Gregor, an actress from Goricia who would find international fame but sadly committed suicide alone in Chile.

The second premiere is entitled ‘Heroj 1.0’ (Hero 1.0), the work of Uroš Kaurin and Vito Weis and another feature in the ‘Who Are Our Heroes’ program mentioned above.

QE-1, Vilharjeva 11, tel. +386 (0)1 425 33 12, info@ mladinsko-gl.si, en.mladinsko.com. Main box office at Trg Francoske Revolucije 5 is open Mon-Fri 12:0017:30, Sat 10:00-13:00.

Dust off those running shoes, its Ljubljana marathon time!

Kapelica Gallery Where many galleries will claim to have their focus fixed firmly on the future, Kapelica take this claim and run with it. When many think of art they immediately think of paintings and wandering uninterested around one gallery after another. Kapelica are the antithesis of this, creating interactive and thought-provoking art that challenges as much as it invigorates. Blending together science and art (complete with their own open-use laboratory), Kapelica is just one arm of a multi-faceted beast, so be sure to keep on top of their output through the websiteQC-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. +386 (0)40 21 22 92, gallery@kapelica.org, www. kapelica.org. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Škuc Gallery One of the cities most popular and important galleries, Škuc holds numerous culture events and exhibitions throughout the year featuring some oft he most important people in contemporary art from throughout the region and the continent.

QD-4, Stari Trg 21, tel./fax +386 (0)1421 31 40, galerija. skuc@guest.arnes.si, www.galerija.skuc-drustvo.si. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

Theatres Gledališče Glej Glej Theatre is Slovenia’s oldest independent theatre.

Founded back in 1970, this experimental venue and production house has been led through the decades by young theatre creators, many of whom are Slovenia’s most 18 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

well known theatre practitioners today.

Glej produces and hosts research theatre projects of upand-coming directors, who can apply to through an open call. The theatre also offers a stepping-stone to young directors with professional working conditions, enabling quick and effective personal artistic growth and providing an entry point to a successful theatre career. Glej’s team vision is to keep the institution a daring urban theatre, dedicated to theatrical research and promoting the new and marginal, while offering creators a space of uncensored freedom of creation.QC-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 251 66 79, info@glej.si, www.glej.si.

Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno Gledališče) Taking as its cue the origins of Slovenian puppet theatre in the 15th century, this puppet theatre, founded in 1948, provides over 500 performances annually, and is a hotbed of creative music, design and other forms. It’s responsible for keeping scores of children entertained and amused every week. Keep an eye out for the musical puppets that come out of the small tower on the roof of the building on the hour.QD/E-3, Krekov Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)1300 09 70, www.lgl.si. The box office is open Monday to Friday from 16:00 to 18:00, Saturday from 10:00 to 12:00, and during the hour prior to each performance.

Slovenian Youth Theatre (Slovensko Mladinsko Gledališče) Often referred to as a laboratory for artists to develop and create, the Slovenian ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Stara Mestna Elektrarna - Elektro Ljubjana Ljubljana’s old power plant is one of the city’s finest pieces of industrial architecture. Constructed more than a century ago, this historical and architectural landmark was given a new lease on life in the 80s and 90s, when local artists turned it into a premier cultural space. The venue continues to be a hub of the local creative and intellectual scene hosting radical and provocative performances, discussions and workshops, whilst there are several festivals held at the venue throughout the year - Ex Ponto and Mladi Levi are two well worth checking out. If you’re catching a show, or are just a fan industrial architecture, make sure to also visit the small museum detailing the building’s technical heritage.QE-2, Slomskova 18, tel. +386 (0)51 269 906, info@bunker.si, www.bunker.si.

Sports 26.10 Sunday Ljubljana Marathon Taking place on October 26th this year, the esteemed Ljubljana marathon will snake from Slovenska cesta all the way around town before ending on Kongresni trg in the 19th annual version of the event. Whilst you won’t catch us running the 26mile course, almost 20,000 competitors from countries as far afield as Afghanistan, Russia, Mexico and South Africa (as well as many closer to home) will take part in a variety of races. For more information, head to the official website.QStaničeva 41, tel. +386 (0)1 234 80 00, vw-ljubljanskimaraton. si.

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Cultural Centres Kino Šiška (Urban Cultural Centre) After nearly a year of renovation, one the city’s most iconic cinemas reopened its doors in 2009 as an urban cultural centre featuring several state-of-the-art preformance halls and exhibition spaces. Dedicated to promoting contemporary music, theatre, dance and experimental events, it already attracts big-name regional and international artists, and is scheduled to hosts around 200 events per year. Most concerts are held in its largest multi-purpose hall, dubbed ‘the Cathedral’, which can fit over 932 people. Check out their English language website for more info and a full schedule of events.QK-3, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)30 310 100, info@kinosiska.si, www.kinosiska.si. PHLEB Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture Centre) Ljubljana’s famous artists’ colony hosts a number of clubs, most of which play thrash style music to a dreadlocked black-clad audience of all ages. Unfortunately little of the website is in English so it would be a case of try it and see, but what we can say for sure is that it provides a refreshing and alternative alternative to the dance music found in most other clubs and attracts a crowd who probably care more that you’re ‘cool’ as in non-judgmental than ‘cool’ as in what you’re wearing and how you sip your drink. Well worth checking-out both for itself and for the philosophy behind the whole set-up.QF-1/2, Masarykova 24, www.metelkovamesto.org.

Concert Halls Slovenian Philharmonic (Slovenska Filharmonija) Ljubljana has a proud history as a town of music, and the Slovenian Philharmonic is its beating heart and soul. This delightful building was built in 1891 on the foundations of the former state theatre, which was destroyed by fire just four years earlier. The entire building was renovated in 2001, the 300th anniversary of the original philharmonic, one of the oldest institutions of its kind in the world. The live music program features a frequent variety of world-class performances, so be sure to catch one if possible.QC-4, Kongresni Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 241 08 00, info@filharmonija.si, www. filharmonija.si.

Conference Venues Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre (Gospodarsko Razstavišče) GR, as it is known in Slovene, is the largest convention centre in Slovenia, and is the location of nearly all of Ljubljana’s major conventions, fairs and trade shows. With 20 multifunctional halls and rooms it can accommodate thousands of visitors, and also has 1,500 parking spaces within short walking distance. For those arriving by public transport, it is located only 300 metres from the main train and bus stations.QD-1, Dunajska 18, tel. +386 (0)13 00 26 11, luka. zajc@gr-sejem.si, www.gr-sejem.si.

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Gourmet

Gourmet Interview with Uroš Mencinger Can you tell us what Slovene cuisine means to you?

The main problem of the young Slovenian state isn’t the economic crisis, but a crisis of identity! We don’t know what we have, we’ve forgotten what we had and we do not know where we’re going ... And this is exactly why I am so in love with Slovenian cuisine! If we were as creative, ambitious and open to the world in other fields, then Slovenia would truly be the Promised Land. We have a rich culinary tradition that has been influenced by our neighbours and also historical circumstances, and diversity is a flavour of this small land with so much beauty.

Food, glorious food! Slovenia has it is spades. Photo by Tomo Jesenicnik / Shutterstock

Welcome to our second annual special feature focusing on the varied cuisine on offer in Slovenia. Following on from our first edition last year, we’ve meticulously put together a feature that will do more than get you started on exploring the tastes and flavours of the country.

Not only that, but we recently held a number of polls where our readers voted for their favourite restaurants throughout the regions of this country, the results of which can be found within.

Each region gets a look in, everywhere from Ljubljana and its surroundings to Dolenjska in the south, Gorenjska in the north, Štajerska and Prekmurje in the east and Istra and Kras in the west. Expert opinions from some of the finest restaurants in each give a little insight into what makes the cuisine of the area special and what it means to people now and through history.

We’ve also compiled a list of great restaurants in each, providing ample choice for places to stop and enjoy a meal (or two), many of which are participating in this years Restaurant week that you can read about on this very page.

We couldn’t do it alone of course, and we were lucky enough to enlist the help of arguably the most respected voice on cuisine in Slovenia, Uroš Mencinger.

Mr Mencinger was kind enough to take time out of his busy schedule have a quick chat with us about the importance and diversity of food in the country, as well as giving us a window into the life of a professional food critic. The full interview can be read at our website, as space has led to us including only a snippet of it within this feature.

20 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Restaurant Week

Is there a particular region of the country whose cuisine you particularly enjoy?

The joy of our small size is that we can have breakfast by the Ljubljanica River, eat a snack in the Karst, lunch by the coast, have dinner in the Alps and then wake up the next morning by the Mura River. How then, am I supposed to have one favourite amongst the regions? Dishes from Primorska are more every day, as they are lighter, fresher and less complicated. In Prekmurje they are more fragrant and in Gorenjska all you need is a spoon. Though as a food critic I must admit; most of the best restaurants are closest to Italy; the Dolenjska region is the most homely, the Štajerska region is the most happening. I would like that the people of Koroška would be more enterprising and creative restaurant-wise that the Notranjska region would follow the path of its finest restaurant and I want the Zasavje region to wake up.

Are you still able to enjoy food from a non-critical point of view?

Do I still enjoy it? It is true that my wife and I have been involved in gastro-criticism for more than 20 years, and that at www.rad-dobrojem.si there are already more than 600 reviewed restaurants and that for Nedelo alone we are already at number 310 ... however, we enjoy it more than ever! This is because we’re still learning; we’re still

discovering and searching for new restaurants, becoming acquainted with new flavours and challenges. Food is our life, so even on vacation we photograph, take notes, visit and eat. Above all, food for us doesn’t just mean reviewing restaurants, so at our website there are many more recipes than critiques. We are just junkies, aren’t we? We’re just addicted to good food!

How often do you eat out, for pleasure?

Ordinarily once or twice a week we eat for work, otherwise we try to eat at home as often as possible. Most of the time Violeta does the cooking, but my goal is to cook at least once a week. I am convinced that without home cooking there is no restaurant reviewing. It is rare that we repeat a dish, not because they aren’t good but because it is necessary to cook new dishes. It’s just like with restaurants, many of them we would like to visit again for pleasure, without a notepad and camera, but we simply don’t get to them. Sometimes, I also envy readers when I advise them where to go.

The second Teden Restavracij of 2014 is coming up this October. Can you tell us more about the project?

Restaurant Week is a global initiative that takes place in many countries, but a little differently in each. We initially included it into our project which was associated with Maribor being the European Capital of Culture in 2012, starting with eight restaurants in Maribor. In 2013 it became a nationwide project. In 2014 it will take place twice, in spring and autumn.

From the start the formula was a winning one, with selected restaurants offering a special menu including at least three dishes, for a friendly price which matches the calendar year we started at 12€ in 2012, now the price is 14€.

What can we expect from the October edition?

In the autumn there will be a few more restaurants, though we do not plan to increase the numbers excessively. This time the chefs still have an entirely free hand in the selection of menus, although for the year 2015 we are also planning on a few new features here. But already this autumn there will be a noticeable trend: local suppliers, seasonal ingredients, and creativity, not just meat.

18.10 Saturday - 26.10 Sunday Restaurant Week (Teden Restavracij) Building on the success of the spring edition this past March (where around 12,000 guests dined), Restaurant Week (Teden Restavracij) returns for an autumn edition. 10 new restaurants have been added, bringing the grand total to 77 restaurants across the entire country, all offering three course meals costing only €14. We’re talking the finest cuisine in the country here, at a price that can scarcely be believed. Reservations are already being taken so get yours in soon.

QVarious venues, violeta.mencinger@gmail.com, www.tedenrestavracij.si.

Uroš (second left) and Violeta (second right) Mencinger with the team at El Celler de can Roca, Girona, Spain.

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October - November 2014

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Gourmet Ljubljana Ljubljana truly is the centrepiece of Slovenia, and as such the finest produce from around the country naturally ends up here. The gorgeous Plečnik designed central market more than displays this, with fresh locally farmed fruit, vegetables and meats as far as the eye can see. Add this to artisanal cured meats and Slovenia’s vast array of fascinating cheeses and you have a culinary scene that is as varied as it is enjoyable. Undoubtedly at the forefront of the national culinary scene, the number of top quality restaurants in town grows every year, and putting together the list for this section was arguably our hardest task. Dig in!

Hiša Kulinarike Manna Set in a colourful little house on one of Ljubljana’s prettiest (and most overlooked) streets, Manna offers a divine selection of contemporary Slovene cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Meals are complimented with some tasty

Gourmet homemade desserts and large choice of both Slovene and foreign wines, as well as a sophisticated selection of spirits (aged rums, cognacs and whiskeys) and cigars for after dinner. A large garden and terrace in the back is open all year, and many people come here to enjoy a coffee, sweets or light snack.QC/D-5, Eipprova 1a, tel. +386 (0)5 992 23 08, info@kulinarika-manna.si, www.kulinarika-manna. si. Sommelier Jani Rakovec. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Holidays 08:00-22:00. (€5-20). PTJA6UGBS JB restavracija Firmly entrenched as one of the best restaurants in town, this fine dining experience comes courtesy of founder and head chef Janez Bratovž (hence the name). Located in one of Jože Plečnik’s more imposing secessionist-style buildings, JB attracts a mix of well-to-do locals and visiting businessmen - guaranteeing you the chance to eavesdrop on conversations in a variety of languages. The menu is comprised entirely of seasonal specialities and changes daily, with exotic

Ljubljana Restavracija CuboQŠmartinska 55, tel. +386 (0)1 521 15 15, info@cubo-ljubljana.com, www.cubo-ljubljana.com. Chef Borut Pugelj Sommelier Matjaž Kokalj Restavracija ŠpajzaQŠmartinska 55, tel. +386 (0)1 521 15 15, info@cubo-ljubljana.com, www.cubo-ljubljana.com. Chef Borut Pugelj Sommelier Matjaž Kokalj Restavracija VanderQKrojaška ulica 6-8, tel. +386 (0)1 200 90 00, info@vanderhotel.com, www.vanderhotel.com. Chef Benjamin Launay, Sommelier Anže Učakar Gostilna AsQČopova 5a/Knafljev prehod, tel. +386 (0)1 425 88 22, gostilna.as@siol.net, www.gostilnaas.si. Chef Mara Borac & Svetozar Raspopović, Sommelier Svetozar Raspopović Restavracija MaximQTrg republike 1, tel. +386 (0)51 285 335, maxim@mercator.si, www.maxi.si.

Chef Andrej Kuhar, Sommelier Matija Šubic Restavracija Pri LevuQ Vošnjakova ulica 1, tel. +386 (0)1 308 7600, info@prilevu.si, www.prilevu. si. Chef Uroš Hribernik, Sommelier Dušan Benčina Restavracija StrelecQ Ljubljanski grad, Grajska planota 1, tel. +386 (0)8 384 31 42, strelec@ kaval-group.si, www.kaval-group.si. Chef Igor Jagodic, Sommelier Gregor Kuralt Luka Gourmet Franshize Restaurant Pr’NoniQPr’Noni Cesta v Gorice 1, tel. +386 (0)1 242 58 20, nona@copia.si, www.prnoni.si. Chef

Klavdija Kavar Svete, Sommelier Damjan Svete Gostilna na GraduQGrajska planota 1, tel. +386 (0)8 205 19 30, leon@nagradu.si, www.nagradu. si. Chefs Damjan Fink and Ana Ros. Sommeliers Leon Furman, Valter Kramar and Svetozar Raspopovič Restavracija Hotela CuboQSlovenska cesta 15, tel. +386 (0)1 425 60 00, reception@hotelcubo.com, www. hotelcubo.com. chefs Inna Belcijan and Tomaž Zavec

SushimamaQWolfova 12, tel. +386 (0)1 425 04 55, romeo.plus@siol.net, www.sushimama.si

best restaurant in Ljubljana

offerings such as bear meat appearing from time to time. The only downside is the price, easily topping €50 per person for a proper meal with wine.QD-1, Miklošičeva 17, +386 (0)1 430 70 70, info@jb-slo.com, www.jb-slo.com. Chef Janez Bratovž, Sommelier Nina Bratovž. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJA Smrekarjev Hram Another of Ljubljana’s upscale eateries, Smrekarjev Hram features a wide menu and a long wine list. Make sure you leave room for a main and a dessert, where you can select from a range of fish or meat dishes such as grilled sea bass or beef in goose liver sauce, finishing off with raspberry pie or baked fig with vanilla ice-cream. The elegant interior of Smrekarjev Hram is offset by the funky multi-colored straw sculptures which add a touch of fun to somewhere with more than a touch of class. It also has excellent daily lunch specials on offer, with soup from €3 and lunches starting from €6.50.QD-3, Nazorjeva 2, tel.

+386 (0)1 308 1907, smrekarjev.hram@union-hotels. eu, www.smrekarjevhram.si. Chef Kristjan Ključevšek, Sommelier Sašo Metličar. Open 12:00 - 23:00. PT� JA6ULEGBSW

ShambalaQKriževniška 12, tel. +386 (0) 31 843 833, info@shambala.si, www.shambala.si. Chef Bojan Darda Pen CubQTomšičeva ulica 12, tel. +386 (0) 1 2514 160, eva.maria.miklic@gmail.com, www.restavracija-penklub.si.

HarfaQKoprska ulica 98, tel. +386 (0)1 423 2411, info@harfa-restavracija.si, www.harfa-restavracija.si.

Chef Boštjan Pavli Ta BarQRibji trg 2, tel. +386 (0) 31 764 063, info@ tabar.si, www.tabar.si. Chef Peter Patajac Bistro zvezdaQKongresni trg 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 9091, emina@zvezdaljubljana.si, www.zvezdaljubljana.si. Chef Tomaš Javurek Restavracija Valvas’orQStari trg, tel. +386 (0)1 425 04 55, info@valvasor.net, www.valvasor.net.

Soups of all kind are vital to all respectable meals in Ljubljana. photo by Bobo

22 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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October - November 2014

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Gourmet Around Ljubljana Don’t let its proximity to the capital cause you to overlook it; the history and importance of food in the area around Ljubljana is every bit as fascinating as in the big city. The small towns and villages that make up the area are full of charming gostilnas, each with its own story, as well as a vast array of historical foods. Whether it is the famous butchers of Trzin, the hearty stews of Mengeš or the wild mushrooms that flood the fertile forests, a surprisingly number of flavours emanates from this charming area.

Whilst the story behind Trnič cheese (see box opposite) is arguably our favourite, we also love the history behind the Princely Venison Goulash of Kamnik. Immensely popular with the noblemen of the 16th century, the name is taken from Archduke Charles II, who spent much time hunting in the area and would frequently eat near Predaselj Gorge, the table at which would come to be named the Prince’s table.

Gostilna Repnik Located in the village of Vrhpolje just a short walk outside of Kamnik, Gostilna Repnik is a special, special place. This part of the world is famed for hospitality, and Repnik stand tall as one of the places taking this to new heights. The staff are simply beyond excellent,

Gourmet

welcoming and passionate about the food they serve without being overbearing. And the food? Wow. The focus is on traditional Slovene fare in the most genuine of ways, complete with a fine selection of wines to compliment every meal. It has perfected the feel of a family inn in the classiest manner, juxtaposing a formal atmosphere with the comforts of home perfectly. By the way, they also provide romantic horse and carriage rides around the area after your meal.QVrhpolje 186, Kamnik, tel. +386 (0)1 839 12 93, info@gostilnarepnik.si, www.gostilna-repnik.si. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.

Skaručna “We are distinguished by simplicity and consistency.

Simplicity, because we prefer to perfect our existing menu rather than waste time with inventing endless new dishes. Consistency, because there are no compromises or shortcuts in selecting the ingredients and preparing them” - Skaručna, Vodice Gostilna Skaručna Opened in the village of the same name just north of Ljubljana by Slavko Žagar Sr back in 1975, to this day Skaručna has the reputation of satisfying each and every guest, which

Kamniška Bistrica. Seeing that the parking lot was packed despite the weather, we vowed to return in the near future, and when we did so several weeks later, we weren’t disappointed. Popular with hikers, tourists and locals, Pri Planinskem Orlu (or the Mountain Eagle) specialises in local cuisine prepared according to traditional recipes, and is especially known for its venison and other game dishes. If you fall in love with the idyllic natural surroundings and would like to make a holiday of it, there are several new guest rooms upstairs.QStahovica 20, Stahovica, tel. +386 (0)1 83 25 410, info@priorlu.si, www.priorlu.si. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.

best restaurant around Ljubljana

goes far beyond what is on the plates and in the glasses. The owner, Slavko Žagar Jr, is a jolly fellow and exceptional host, but also takes his cuisine very seriously. Fresh ingredients come directly from the nearby fields and forests, and even the wood that fires the open-air barbecue is carefully selected. In short, every meal at Skaručna is a unique, and often unforgettable, experience.QSkaručna 20, Vodice, tel. +386 (0)1 832 3080/+386 (0)40 799 810, gostilna@skarucna.si, www.skarucna.si. Open 13:00-22:00. Closed Sun-Mon and holidays. Groups of 12 or more can make reservations for Sun with prior arrangement. A6ILB

Pri Planinskem Orlu Some years ago we got lost trying to take a shortcut through the mountains in a heavy rain storm and ended up following a convoy of cars, which serendipitously led us to this traditional family-run restaurant on the road to

Trnič When we first came across Trnič cheese, we thought it looked like a tiny crown or a baby’s hat, depending on the angle from which you were looking. Imagine our surprise therefore, when we were told that it was designed in the shape of the breasts of a woman! Yes, we were surprised, to say the least. Originating from the hills of Velika planina and the shepherds who would make it their home throughout the summer, the cheese was created in the shape of boobs and then given by a boy to the object of his affections as a sign of love and fidelity. We’ll admit that this is a strange sign of affection, but who doesn’t love tasty cheese?

around ljubljana Gostilna Čubr QKriž 53, 1218 Komenda, tel. +386 (0)1 834 11 15, info@gostilna-cubr.com, www. gostilna-cubr.com. Chef Anita Potočnik, Sommelier Miha Potočnik Gostilna Mihovec QZgornje Pirniče 54, 1215 Medvode, tel. +386 (0)1 362 30 60, gostilna.mihovec@ siol.net, www.mihovec.com. Chef Mojca Trnovec, Sommeliers Mojca Trnovec in Jernej Petač Restavracija Konoba BonacaQCesta na svetje 44, 1215 Medvode, tel. +386 (0)1 361 78 60, poljak.bonaca@gmail.com, www.konoba-bonaca.si. Chef Milenko Poljak, Sommelier Štefka Poljak Ančka QDelavska cesta 18, 4208 Šenčur, tel. +386 (0)4 2515 200, gostilna@ancka.si. Chef Marko Magdič Dvor JezeršekQZgornji Brnik 63, 4207 Cerklje na Gorenjskem, tel. +386 (0)4 252 94 00, gostinstvo@ jezersek.si, www.jezersek.si. Chef Luka Jezeršek, Sommelier Andrej Mir Gostilna GorjancQTržaška cesta 330, 1000 Ljubljana, tel. +386 (0) 423 11 11, info@gorjanc.eu, www. gorjanc.eu. Chef Lazar Dobić Restavacija EvergreenQSmlednik 200, 1216 Smlednik, tel. +386 (0)41 366 249, evergreen@kavalgroup.si, www.evergreen-restavracija.si. Chef Anže Gombač, Sommelier Damir Cota

www.priorlu.si T: (+386) 01 832 54 10

A salty cheese about the size and shape of a pear, the work that goes into decoration can only be described as painstaking, but it is worth every second in the end.

Made from cream, cheese and salt, Trnič cheese is no longer given as a gift to lonely maidens, but can be found in many restaurants in the Kamnik area and further beyond as an extra treat at the end of a hearty meal, and is definitely a must-try in the heart of Slovenia.

Janez Uršič s.p. / Stahovica 20 / 1242 Stahovica

24 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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Gourmet

Gourmet

Dolenjska Slovenia as a nation is known for its hearty traditional cuisine, but nowhere is this truer than in the region of Dolenjska. Yes, the food may be humble, but this shouldn’t be seen as a belittling factor, far from it. A rich food culture lives on here in a truly traditional sense, with many families still growing their own fruit and vegetables as well as smoking and curing their own meat. This cultured emphasis on what the home needs means Dolenjska really excels when it comes to seasonal delights. We have our favourites of course, coming in the shape of Mošt (a most drinkable fresh cider) and Čemaž, wild garlic that is picked in spring and can be used to make a pesto the likes of which your taste buds have never experienced. The dense forests of the region also lead to a number of Epicurean specialties, such as autumn chestnuts, wild game and rich forest honey (gozdni med).

The influence of neighbouring cultures, be they Italian, Austrian, Hungarian or Balkan, truly cannot be denied.

Our taste buds aren’t complaining, as this has led to a number of curiosities such as Žganci (hard-boiled corn mush), Matevž (a side dish of mashed beans and potatoes) and the liberal use of sour turnips. On the after meal side of the plate we find Belokranska pogača, a superb flatbread as well as various forms of potica. In the past, a single variety of mushy potica was dominant here, but it has since been replaced with špehova, an enticing potica made with lard. We don’t use the word enticing in a sarcastic manner there either, it really is excellent.

Vovko “Dolenjci love to eat well.

It’s no coincidence that the best domestic meats are found right here at home.

They say there isn’t a Dolenj’ that doesn’t have their own vineyard, garden and pig. Self-sufficiency has long been in practice here, not just on paper.” - Vovko, Brusnice (2013 winner) Gostilna Vovko Just outside of Novo Mesto, Vovko has a reputation for producing excellent dishes from the grill and its reputation that they more than back up. Whether it’s the glorious homemade pork and sausages, the wild deer or any number of other grilled meats, we’ve never been let down. Topped off with a most homely of rustic interiors, Vovko also produce their own wine which is available in the restaurant, if one of the fine wines already available don’t tickle your fancy. Whatever happens, we can’t say no to a mixed grill.QRatež 48, 8321 Brusnice, +386 (0)7 308 56 03, info@gostilna-vovko.si, www.gostilna-vovko.si. Chef Rok Vovko 26 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

best restaurant In dolenjska

Boheja Located within a modern yet warm and friendly building in Novo Mesto, Boheja specialise in producing diverse steaks, which is all we need to know. Cooked on a unique lava grill, we try not to delve into hyperbole too often but these steaks must be tasted. They must.

Complimented by other original and seasonal dishes and aided along the way by waiters who are seemingly experts on the wines available, Boheja is a great place to eat when in Novo Mesto.QBelokranjska cesta 24a, 8000 Novo mesto, +386 (0)59 01 06 74, info@boheja. si, www.boheja.si. Chef Aleš Pelc, Sommelier Marko Pavlič Gostilna Repovž Sat between Celje and Novo Mesto, Gostilna Repovž is homely personified. A family affair with over a hundred years of tradition already behind it, the richness of the countryside is multiplied by an awareness of knowledge of food and wine added to superb ingredients straight from the most ecological of farms making a terrific experience all round. Wine is produced in their own vineyards, and there is even three star accommodation on site for those who fancy drinking more than just a sample.QŠentjanž 14, 8297 Šentjanž, +386 (0)7 818 56 61, info@gostilna-repovz.si, www.gostilnarepovz.si. Chef Metka Repovž, Sommelier Grega Repovž Grad Otočec If location is all that matters, we will struggle to find anything more romantic than this. In the middle of the Krka river, the restaurant nestled inside Otočec castle truly is a special place. As we often remark, we’re romantics at heart, and there aren’t many more heart-enchanting restaurants in the entire country. Of course, the food more than matches the surroundings.QGrajska cesta 2, Otočec ob Krki, +386 (0)7 384 89 09, otocec@relaischateaux.com, www.relaischateaux.com.

Čemaž The first time we encountered čemaž, we were taken completely off guard. A friend from just outside Ljubljana, who had the temerity to describe it as homemade pesto, presented us with a small jar of it. Excited, we decided to use it that very evening, and prepared ourselves some pasta. When it came to applying the ‘pesto’, we were as liberal as usual, and proceeded to have our socks well and truly blown off by the sheer intensity of the flavours. We were less liberal with it in future. Čemaž, also know as ‘bear’s garlic’ or the slightly less cool

Cviček

Dolenjska

No discussion of culinary life in Dolenjska is complete without mentioning the opinion-dividing light wine known as Cviček. Some hate it, others love it, but everyone has an opinion and it is closely tied to the history of the region. Failing that, it is also the only wine on the planet that is made of both red (70%) and white (30%) grapes, which is quite the claim to fame. Coming out in a light red colour and full of fruity aromas, Cviček is most certainly unique.

Nicknamed ‘The Baby Maker’ by some (not us), Cviček is low in alcohol content, clocking in at between 8 and 10%. This leads to it being regarded as an everyday wine, a wine that can be enjoyed with little fear of a morning headache to come. Similar to quite possibly all wines it is also supposed to have healing qualities, and goes exceedingly well with meats and cheeses.

As mentioned, its historical reputation really has been up and down more times than a particularly busy rollercoaster. As the 19th century moved towards it close, its reputation couldn’t have been lower. Bad cellaring and early harvests had put paid to its quality. This wouldn’t do of course, and after much experimentation in Novo Mesto at the end of the century it became a top quality drink. The 20th century saw this see-saw opinion continue, but with the development of Slovenia’s wine industry it is firmly back onside now.

Ošterija DebeluhQTrg izgnancev 7, 8250 Brežice, tel. +386 (0)7 496 10 70, jure@debeluh.si, www.debeluh.si. Chef and sommelier Jure Tomič Gostilna RakarQGorenje ponikve 8, 8210 Trebnje, tel. +386 (0)7 346 61 90, info@rakar.si, www. rakar.si. Chef Tatjana Rakar, Sommelier Boštjan Rakar Pod skednjem – Posestvo PuleQ Drečji vrh 16, 8231 Trebelno, tel. +386 (0)7 349 97 00, info@pule. si, www.pule.si.

Gostilna RepovžQŠentjanž 14, 8297 Šentjanž, tel. +386 (0)7 818 56 61, info@gostilna-repovz.si, www.gostilna-repovz.si. Chef Metka Repovž, Sommelier Grega Repovž Restavracija OštarijaQSokolski trg 2, 8350 Dolenjske Toplice, tel. +386 (0)51 262 990, jernej.jarc@ ostarija.si, www.ostarija.si. Chef Roberto Gregorčič, Sommelier Kerin Rok Restavracija Grad OtočecQGrajska cesta 2, 8222 Otočec ob Krki, tel. +386 (0)7 384 89 09, otocec@ relaischateaux.com, www.relaischateaux.com. Chef Dejan Pavlič Gostilna ŽolnirQKrška cesta 4, 8311 Kostanjevica na Krki, tel. +386 (0)7 498 71 33, sevsek.simona@siol.net, www.zolnir.eu. Chef Sevšek Otto Willi, Sommelier Sevšek Klemen Domačija JavornikQJavornik Krka 127, 1301 Krka, tel. +386 (0) 31 739 771, info@kayak.si. Chef Barabara Kotar-Javornik

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‘wild garlic’, grows wild practically everywhere, most frequently close to bodies of water. It has been a staple of the area for centuries, with the Romans being particularly fond of it. It has many, many uses, whether being blended into a soup, used in salads or as a spread. It can be ate fresh or prepared into a ‘pesto’ type sauce, as we encountered. It also has legitimate healing powers, as it stimulates the glands and has been shown to lower cholesterol. Just don’t lavish it all over your pasta if you aren’t familiar with the strength of the flavour.

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Gourmet Gorenjska The idea of a seasonal menu may be something of a fashion trend in the US and UK culinary scenes, but in Slovenia it has traditionally been how things had to be.

Nowhere is this more true than in Gorenjska, where the tough Alpine winters meant that ‘waste not, want not’ took on an entirely new meaning. Food to fill was the order of the day, leading to the development of such delights as rich Krvavica (blood sausage, or black pudding to our UK readers) and everyone’s favourite boiled cottage-cheese dumpling, Sirovki Štruklji. Continuing the hearty home feel, we also find Krapi, dough pockets filled with a variety of fillings as well as the old herdsmen’s dish of Bržola, a stew loaded with lamb and vegetables. For the more adventurous among us, It isn’t all just stodge and podge however, as Gorenjska also does a fine line in fine dining. Seasonal game and wild mushrooms are among their finest seasonal delights, with fresh trout and Alpine cheeses not far behind.

Of course, no discussion of food in Gorenjska is complete without talking about Kranjska Klobasa, subject of the ‘Sausage wars’ between Austria and Slovenia recently. How a sausage seasoned with only salt, pepper and garlic can taste so good is beyond us, but we certainly aren’t complaining.

Gourmet best restaurant In Gorenjska

Gostilna Krištof One of the dozen or so Slovene restaurants that are perennially in the running for the title of the finest dining in the country, Krištof can be found in the village of Predoslje just next to Brdo Castle north of Kranj. True to it’s small town roots, the restaurant combines the best of rural ambience and charm with modern Slovenian cuisine, and the family that runs the place is said to have been the catering business for more than 700 years, so you can rest assured that you’re in good hands. The fresh seasonal menu is certified organic, and there are also many vegetarian and vegan dishes to choose from, all of which can be found in English

Restavracija 1906 bled “Food has become a very important value-adding component of the complete tourist experience, as well as at being visible at every event. There is an ever-increasing emphasis on traditional Slovenian dishes that include local ingredients, prepared in a healthy and contemporary way. “ - Restavracija 1906 Bled, Bled (2013 winner) Restaurant 1906 Located in the stately four-star Hotel Triglav Bled (which, you guess it, was founded in 1906), a meal here is guaranteed to

be a fine dining experience of the highest order. The kitchen of head chef Andrej Rovan creates some simply wonderful dishes, all of which are modern interpretations of traditional Slovene recipes, methods and ingredients. In 2011, the restaurant, and its culinary school, were awarded the prestigious Jakob Prize, given each year at Slovenia’s largest tourism fair to only one winner.QKolodvorska 33, tel. +386 (0)4 575 26 10/+386 (0)31 300 097, info@hoteltriglavbled.si, www.hoteltriglavbled.si. Chef Andrej Rovan, Sommelier Damir Salkić . PAW

(and with prices) on their website.QPredoslje 22, tel. +386 (0)4 234 10 30/+386 (0)41 358 786, kristof@ siol.net, www.gostilnakristof.si. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.

Hotel Brdo Restaurant This newly renovated restaurant on the ground floor of Hotel Brdo (formerly Hotel Kokra) is a perfect place for lunch on a family trip to the adjacent Brdo Castle and Park.

Decidedly high-end in appearance, service and cuisine, the menu boasts surprisingly affordable prices, especially during lunch at the weekends. If you’re looking for a more romantic and/or relaxing getaway, you can combine your meal with a trip to the onsite wellness centre, or a horsedrawn carriage ride through the park grounds.QPredoslje 39, Kranj, tel. +386 (0)4 260 15 01, brdo-eu@gov.si, www.brdo.si. Open 07:00 - 22:00. PTALBW Vila Bled Whilst the grand stairs leading up to an equally grand building may look a little daunting at first, what is waiting at the top is quite the treat. Josip Tito deemed it good

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Many more restaurants from Gorenjska can be found online at slovenia.inyourpocket.com

Gorenjska Vila PodvinQMošnje 1, 4240 Radovljica, tel. +386 (0)8 384 34 70, info@vilapodvin.si, www.vilapodvin.si.

Chef Uroš Štefelin, Sommelier Sašo Pejić Restavracija Vila BellaQSr. Bela 1b, 4205 Preddvor, tel. +386 (0)4 255 91 00, restavracija.vilabella@gmail.com, www.vila-bella.com. Chef Luka Lipanovič, Sommelier (and owner) Marjan Ovnik Restavracija GrillQLjubljanska cesta 6, 4260 Bled, tel. +386 (0)4 620 41 26, reservations@kompaslovec.com, www.grill-bled.com. Chef Dean Grilc, Sommelier Milena Pogačnik Pr Kovač, KropaQKropa 30, Kropa, tel. +386 (0)4 533 63 20 Gostilna pri DaniluQReteče 48, 4220 Škofja Loka, tel. +386 (0)4 515 34 44, gostilna@pridanilu. com, http://www.pridanilu.com. Chefs Vesna in Dušan Čarman, Sommelier Gašper Čarman

28 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

enough to act as his summer residence and many foreign dignitaries were hosted here, such as Soviet leader Nikita Krushchev, Indira Ghandi and even Kim Il Sung. Since opening as a hotel in 1984, it has also had Prince Charles, Paul McCartney and Eva Herzigova through its doors.

Quite the list. Spacious suites with elegant 1950s furnishing are the order of the day, with a gorgeous restaurant and peaceful coffee room to boot.QB-4, Cesta Svobode 26, tel. +386 (0)4 575 37 10, vilabled@gov.si, www. vilabled.com. Open from April till October. 32 rooms, €145-550 with breakfast. HAR6LGKDW hhhh

Restavracija Grad LamberghQDvorska vas 37 a, 4275 Begunje na Gorenjskem, tel. +386 (0)8 200 50 00, info@hotel-lambergh.com, www.hotellambergh.com Gostišče TulipanQAlpska cesta 8, 4248 Lesce, tel. +386 (0)4 537 88 00, info@tulipan-azman.si, www.tulipan-azman.si Restavracija OkarinaQLjubljanska cesta 8, 4260 Bled, tel. +386 (0)4 574 14 58, leo@okarina.com, www.okarina.com. Chef Changra Sanu Restavracija BrioniQKoroška cesta 10, 4000 Kranj, tel. +386 (0)4 201 07 50, brioni@t-2.net, www. brioni.si KunsteljQGorenjska cesta 9, 4240 Radovljica, tel. +386 (0)453 15 178, kunstelj@siol.net, www.kunstelj. si. Chef Maja Buden

Oštarija Peglez’nQCesta svobode 19a, 4260 Bled, tel. +386 (0)4 574 42 18

Gostilna Pr´ BizjakQZgornja Bela 20, 4205 Preddvor, tel. +386 4 2555 600, gostilna.bizjak@siol.net, www.gostilnabizjak.si. Chef Veronika Aljančič

Restavracija PanoramaQ Cesta svobode 12, 4260 Bled, tel. +386 (0)4 579 12 75, panorama@hotelibled.com, www.sava-hotels-resorts.com

Pr MatičkuQJezerska cesta 41, 4000 Kranj, tel. +386 (0) 4234 33 60, prmaticku@gmail.com, www. prmaticku.si

Penzion LipaQKoroška ulica 14, 4280 Kranjska Gora, tel. +386 (0)4 582 00 00, info@penzion-lipa.si, www.penzion-lipa.si. Chef Mirza Bektašević

Skipass, Kranjska GoraQKoroška ulica 14 c, 4280 Kranjska Gora, tel. +386 (0) 4582 1000, info@skipasstravel.si, www.skipasshotel.si. Chef Gašper Kordež

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Istra and Kras Combine a unique karst landscape and the excellent Mediterranean climate, and you can expect the excellent produce that this region provides almost at ease.

The farmers in these parts know what they are doing, and they’ve had these skills finely honed for centuries.

Whilst the Slovene coast may be small, the region makes the most of what it has with some of the finest seafood anyone could ever wish to come across. The coastal saltpans also provide truly excellent salt. The bread in Slovenia’s slice of the Istrian coast is also exemplary, as bread-baking was a matter of survival for the longest time, whether that is financial or as a source of food.

As we move inland we enter the land of exquisite olive oils, sweet summer figs and delightful Istrian truffles.

Award-winning Karst prosciutto too, the likes of which is traditionally aged in caves, and goes excellently with many of the unique changes on offer, such as raw cow’s milk Tolminc from the Soča Valley. With such an abundance of excellent local ingredients and conditions, not to mention the local Italian influence, is it of any surprise that many of Slovenia’s finest chefs and restaurants are found in this part of the country?

best restaurant In Istra and Kras

Hiša Torkla Situated in a beautifully restored traditional 19th-century Istrian house in the charming hilltop town of Korte, the cuisine at Hiša Torkla is just as exceptional as the setting.

Prepared using fresh seasonal ingredients from local farmers, hunters and fishermen, many of the dishes are based on age-old Slovene recipes with a little bit of modern innovation from head chef Sebastijan Kovačič. In addition to the main dining room, there is a large terrace that can be transformed into an enclosed winter garden during colder

rizibizi “We are a seaside restaurant, so our cuisine is based on seafood and our philosophy is to prepare dishes using ingredients from our environment. We believe that in this way we help to educate about Istrian goods which the generation of today may have forgotten” - Rizibizi, Portorož Rizibizi From the team that brought us the excellent Hiša Torkla

comes the restaurant you voted as the best in Istra and Kras for 2014, the wonderfully named Rizibizi. With two summer terraces with inspiringly romantic views across the Bay of Piran and a well stocked wine cellar it really can do no wrong, as exquisitely prepared dishes come from the kitchen containing fish fresh from the sea. A passionate team back It all up, making it a worthy winner.

QVilfanova 10, tel. +386 (0)5 993 53 20, info@rizibizi. si, www.rizibizi.

months, and a small private salon with a fireplace that can be reserved for special occasions. After dinner you can head to the equally grand wine cellar downstairs.QKorte 44b, tel. +386 (0)5 620 96 57, info@hisa-torkla.si, www. hisa-torkla.si. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Sophia Some moments in history are truly timeless, while others are so timeless that they beget the naming of 5-star restaurants. One such case is Sophia at the Kempinski Palace, which takes its name from the incomparable Sophia Loren, who stayed here during the 1950s and was captured on film one evening in a moment that perfectly represented la Dolce Vita. Housed in the former grand reception area at the old Palace hotel, the stone pillars, vintage chandeliers and large fireplace are all restored originals. The cuisine

is a blend of Mediterranean and Italian flavours from the kitchen of head chef Curt Daniel Scheffler, created with local ingredients and complimented by a expectedly fine wine selection.QD-2, Kempinski Palace, Obala 45, tel. +386 (0)5 692 7000, reservations.portoroz@kempinski. com, www.kempinski.com/portoroz. Opens end of April 19:00-23:00. PJAIL

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istra and kras Hiša FrankoQStaro selo 1, 5222 Kobarid, tel. +386 Gostilna Za Gradom “Rodica”QKraljeva 10, 6000 (0)5 389 41 20, info@hisafranko.com, www.hisafranko. Koper, tel. +386 (0)5 628 55 05. Chefs Darko & Sonja Rodica com. Chef Ana Roš, Somemlier Valter Kramar Gostilna Domačija ŠajnaQŠepulje 33, 6210 Gostilna pri Lojzetu - Dvorec Ze- Sežana, tel. +386 (0)5 764 10 96, domacija.sajna@gmail. monoQ5271 Vipava, tel. +386 (0)5 368 70 07, zemo- com, www.sajna.si. Chef Vera Šajna, Sommelier Bojan no@zemono.si, www.zemono.si. Chef Tomaž Kavčič Žvab Restavracija RizibiziQVilfanova 10, 6320 Portorož, tel. +386 (0)5 993 53 20, info@rizibizi.si, www.rizibizi.si. Chefs Janko Franetič & Tomaž Bevčič, Sommelier Patricija Belčič

Restavracija DamQUlica Vinka Vodopivca 24, 5000 Nova Gorica, tel. +386 (0)5 333 11 47, info@ restavracija-dam.si, www.restavracija-dam.si. Chef and sommelier Uroš Fakuč

Restavracija PikolQVipavska 94, Rožna Dolina, 5000 Nova Gorica, tel. +386 (0)5 302 25 62, info@pikol. si, www.pikol.si. Chef Maruška Gašparin, Sommelier Boris Gašparin

Gostilna MahorčičQRodik 51, 6240 Kozina, tel. +386 (0)5 6 800 400, ksenija.mahorcic@gmail.com, gostilnamahorcic.wordpress.com. Chef Ksenija Krajšek Mahorčič, Sommelier Martin Mahorčič

Gostilna ŽejaQOzeljan 32, 5261 Šempas, tel. +386 Gostilna RavbarQDol pri Vogljah 5, 6221 Dutov(0)5 308 84 59, zeja@siol.net, Chef Igor Loverčič lje, tel. +386 (0)5 734 61 80, gostilna.ravbar@siol.net.

Chefs Darinka & Nataša Ravbar Okrepčevalnica RujQ Dol pri Vogljah 16, 6221 Dutovlje, tel. +386 (0)5 734 17 20, peter.patajac@gmail.com. Restavracija Grad SocerbQSocerb Socerb 7, Chef Vildana Patajac, Sommelier Peter Patajac 6275 Črni Kal, tel. +386 (0)5 659 23 03, www.socerb.eu.

Chef Milan Graj Restavracija SofijaQObala 45, 6320 Topli valQTrg svobode 1, 5222 Kobarid, tel. +386 (0)5 Portorož, tel. +386 (0)5 692 70 00, reservations.por389 9300, info@hotelhvala.si, www.hotelhvala.si. Chef toroz@kempinski.com, www.kempinski.com/en/ Gorazd Marksl portoroz/palace-portoroz. Chef Igor Delak, SommeGordiaQKolomban 13, 6280 Ankaran, tel. +386 (0)5 651 lier Bojan Poljšak 3085, cepandrej@hotmail.com, www.gordia.si. Chef Andrej Gredič AvenantiQCeglo 9, 5215 Dobrovo v Br- Cep dih, tel. +386 (0)5 828 01 20, info@gredic.si, www. TomiQLetoviška 1, 6320 Portorož, tel. +386 (0)5 674 gredic.si. Chef Christian Avenanti, Sommelier Chiara 0222, tomi@siol.net, www.hotel-tomi.eu. Chef Mate Matjaž Nemaz Casa NostromoQTomšičeva 24, 6330 Piran, tel. Špacapanova hišaQKomen 85, 6223 Komen, tel. +386 (0)30 200 000, piranjein@gmail.com, www.pirani+386 (0)5 766 04 00, info@spacapan.si, www.spacapan.si sin.com. Chef Gradimir Dimitrić 30 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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Gourmet Štajerska and Prekmurje It should come as little surprise that cuisine in Prekmurje, Slovenia’s easternmost region bordering Hungary has a truly distinctive feel as opposed to the rest of the country.

Rich, meaty stews such as Golaž and Bograč abound, along with many interesting local techniques for smoking meats such as Pohorje Bunka (lightly smoked pork) and Želodec (flat stomach salami). The most famous dish of all from this region is Prekmurksa Gibanica, a fairly eclectic desert combining apple, cottage cheese, poppy seeds and walnuts. Štajerska itself has a rich culinary history too. Rural farmers would head to the towns of the area to do business, and would often stay overnight in the local inns. Much in the same way that businessmen today treat themselves, these farmers would resist ordering the same food they get at home and instead splash out on something a little fancier.

No boiled corn-mush for them, instead plumping for delicious roasted meats and stuffed breasts. Whilst Štajerska might be more famous for its wines, the food on offer shouldn’t be overlooked.

Both Prekmurje and Štajerska are also famous throughout the nation for pumpkin seed oil. This rich and nutty oil has a mass of purposes, with our favourite being to lightly drizzle it over some fresh skuta (cottage-cheese).

Gourmet best restaurant In Štajerska and Prekmurje

Many more restaurants from Štajerska and Prekmurje can be found online at slovenia.inyourpocket.com

restavracija pavus “The Štajerska region has awoken from its culinary sleep recently with some excellent chefs opening their own restaurants. Our knowledge of culinary techniques is extensive, our respect for local dishes and ingredients is deep and the results are impressive” - Restavracija Pavus Pavus Grad Tabor For a truly unique dining experience hike up to Tabor Castle on the hill overlooking the town. Dating back to the 11th century, the castle was in ruins for nearly two hundred years until the Laško Brewery rebuilt it in

the mid-1980s. The compact but beautifully restored premises are now one of the most popular places in the country for weddings. The food itself is actually quite well-regarded, albeit not exactly budget friendly, and the sweeping views of the valley from the terrace more than make up for any premium you’ll pay.QCesta na Svetino 23, tel. +386 (0)3 620 07 23/+386 (0)51 614 664, info@pavus.si, www.pavus.si. Open Tues-Sat 11:00-22:00, Sat 11:00-20:00, Sun and Holiday 11:0020:00 (in winter 11:00-16:00). Closed Mon. (€6-23).

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Gostilna Francl Regarded by locals as one of the best restaurants in the region, if not the entire country, Francl has never left us disappointed and should more or less be considered a must-visit destination. They do all kinds of traditional Slovenian and Savinjska cuisine, in addition to some unique creations of their own. There’s also an ample selection of vegetarian dishes. It’s located in a small village on the right bank of the river a few minutes’ drive south of Celje (just follow the signs), and calling ahead for reservations is probably a good idea.QZagrad 77, tel. +386 (0)3 492 64 60/+386 (0)3 492 64 61, peter.zaversek@siol.net. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€6-21).

Restavracija Mak Despite being a little out of the way and not possessing the most inspiring of interiors, Restavracija Mak has forged a reputation as Maribor’s finest restaurant, a testament to the quality of its food if ever there was one. Sure, it isn’t cheap, but food this good rarely is. A meal at Mak is an education in appreciating the art of cooking, something that could be deemed lost in the fast-moving modern world. The attention to detail is truly

Gostilna RajhQBakovci, Soboška ulica 32, 9000 Murska Sobota, tel. +386 (0)2 543 90 98, info@rajh. si, www.rajh.si. Chef Metka Jerebic, Sommelier Damir Pintari Gostilna Pri LešnikuQDupleška cesta 49, 2000 Maribor, tel. +386 (0)2 471 23 22, gostilna.lesnik@siol. net, www.gostilna-motel-lesnik.si. Chef Damjan Veber, Sommelier Gajšek Milan Gostilna TončekQ Panonska 27, 9231 Beltinci, tel. +386 (0)2 542 22 90, info@gostilna-toncek.si, www.gostilna-toncek.si.

Gostilna GastužQŠpitalič 9, 3215 Loče, tel. +386 (0)3 752 37 00, rezervacije@gastuz.si, www.gastuz.si. Chef Sergej Gašparič, Sommelier Jože Obrul Gostilna MilleniumQZg. Hoče 64, 2311 Hoče, tel. +386 (0)2 618 17 14, www.milenium.si. Chef Mirko Kramberger, Sommelier Samo Kramberger Gostilna TramšekQŽerovinci 25 b, 2259 Ivanjkovci, tel. +386 (0)2 719 40 97, info@gostilnatramsek.si, www.gostilnatramsek.si. Chef Jelena Tramšek Restavracija AmonQOlimje 24, 3254 Podčetrtek, tel. +386 (0)3 818 24 80, info@amon.si, www.amon.si. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Rožmarin A restaurant, shop, café, wine cellar and club all in one, Rožmarin is one of our favourite spots for food in Maribor.

Opened by former professional tennis player Sasa Arsenovic, this sleeker than sleek establishment offers a varied menu that drips in quality from top to bottom. The experience and passion for food is impossible to ignore. Shared plates are available in the evening for the more social eaters and we can’t speak highly enough of the cheerful staff. A delight.QC-2, Gosposka 8, tel. +386 (0)41 60 19 61, restavracija@rozmarin.si, www.rozmarin.si. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (€6-45).

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Štajerska and Prekmurje

Hiša RaduhaQLuče 67, 3334 Luče, tel. +386 (0)31 645 758, info@raduha.com, www.raduha.com. Chef Martina Breznik

32 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

second to none.QOsojnikova 20, tel. +386 (0)2 620 00 53, info@restavracija-mak.si, www.restavracija-mak.si. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 21:30. Closed Mon, Sun.

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Gostilna k RotundiQSelo 30a, 9207 Prosenjakovci, tel. +386 (0)2 544 10 35, info@krotundi.com, www. krotundi.com. Chefs Gizela Grabar and Dušan Perš Gostilna na GričuQCesta Maksa Kavčiča 2, 2235 Sveta Trojica v Slov. Goricah, tel. +386 (0)2 729 23 56, info@gostilnanagricu.com, www.gostilnanagricu.com Galerija OkusovQNovo Celje 9, 3301 Petrovče, tel. +386 (0)31 657 605, info@galerijaokusov.si, galerijaokusov.si. Chef Borut Jovan Hotel EvropaQKrekov trg 4, 3000 Celje, tel. +386 (0) 3 426 9000, info@hotel-evropa.si, www.hotel-evropa.si. Chef Iztok Lednik Gostilna ŠikerQMočna 7, 2231 Pernica, tel. +386 (0) 2 720 6921, info@siker.si, www.siker.si. Chef Breda Cotar Štajerska hiša kulinarikeQGočova 38 a, 2235 Sveta Trojica, tel. +386 (0)51 370 676, rezervacije@shk.si, www.shk.si. Chef Gregor Brodnjak, Sommelier Sašo Kramberger Gostilna ŠempeterQBistrica ob Sotli 76, 3256 Bistrica ob Sotli, tel. +386 (0) 51 620 011, sreco@sem5er.com. Chef Ratimir Harapin Restavracija TerasaQUlica kneza Koclja 22, 2000 Maribor, tel. +386 (0)2 292 7002, restavracija@ cityhotel-mb.si, www.cityhotel-mb.si. Chef Robi Žibrat October - November 2014

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Restaurants Güjžina Voted by our readers as the best Slovenian restaurant in Ljubljana for 2013, Güjžina offers traditional cuisine from the region of Prekmurje, which is situated in the far northeastern corner of the country and heavily influenced by neighbouring Hungary, Austria and Croatia. One of the most typical dishes is the awardwinning bograč, a thick meaty stew that comes served in a large copper kettle, while the multi-layered cake known as gibanica is easily the best in the city and an absolute must for dessert. Check the chalkboard or ask your waiter for the daily specials.QD-4, Mestni Trg 19, tel. +386 (0)8 380 64 46, info@prekmurska-gostilna. si, www.prekmurska-gostilna.si. Open 08:00 - 24:00.

PJAB Jelen Located in Šiška some 5km from the city centre, this guest house and restaurant has been serving locals and tourists alike since 1878. There’s a full menu of traditional Slovene dishes as well as an assortment of tasty Balkan-style grilled meats and pizzas from a wood-fired oven. Upstairs there are five fully equipped modern rooms, which are convenient if you’ve got an early morning flight to catch or have just eaten (or drunk) too much to make it very far from the table.QCelovška 462, tel. +386 (0)1 5161 545, info@ pension-jelen.eu, www.pension-jelen.eu. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. €3.80-16. PTAUB� SW

Bistro Platana’s outdoor seating on Kongresni trg is as delightful as it is romantic

Slovenian Aroma Located in the city’s oldest house, dating from 1528, this newly opened restaurant has already become a popular choice for visitors to Ljubljana. Aroma has a diverse menu offering traditional Slovene dishes as well as almost anything else you might fancy - from steaks and pizzas to salads and desserts - as well as a good selection of quality Slovene wines. Breakfast specials look good too. Almost as hard as choosing what to order is deciding whether to sit inside under the beautiful vaulted ceilings or outside in prime position besides the Ljubljanica river.QD-3, Ribji Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)31 30 70 30, www.aroma-ljubljana.si.

Open 08:00 - 24:00. PJABW Druga Violina Good locally grown produce, a simple short menu of Slovene classics, top location in the city’s old town, but there’s a twist in the tale with the ‘other violin’ (as the English translation of the name goes). It’s actually a project for people with disabilities, who produce much of the food on a farmland near Ljubljana and also work as waiting staff in the restaurant itself. Come and see what it’s all about, while enjoying one of the fresh local dishes either in the rustic dining room or on the delightful cobbled pavement outside, voted Best Restaurant Summer Terrace 2014 by In Your Pocket readers.QD-4, Stari trg 21, tel. +386 (0)82 05 25 06, druga.violina@center-db.si. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

PJAUBW 34 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Gostilna Pod Vrbo is tradition personified

Gostilna Gorjanc With over two centuries of tradition (it was officially opened for business in 1813), Gorjanc is one of the longest running traditional Slovenian restaurants around Ljubljana, but at the same time it’s also one of the newest, as it underwent extensive restoration and modernisation at the same time the G Design Hotel was built next door.

Along with the standard hearty Slovenian fare, such as blood sausages and sauerkraut with pork fat cracklings, the menu makes room for various refined fish, pastas, salads and other gourmet dishes. On weekdays there are lunch specials on offer that can be seen in advance on their website.QH-5, Tržaška 330, tel. +386 (0)1 423 11 11, info@gdesignhotel.si, www.gdesignhotel.si. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. PTALW Gostilna Pod Vrbo This traditional Slovenian gostilna is located in one of Ljubljana’s oldest neighbourhoods, just metres from the former home of famed architect Jože Plečnik. On sunny days the name Pod Vrbo (under the willows) takes on a literal meaning with tables out in the garden, while in winter you can cosy up beside the fire. The kitchen turns out excellent Slovenian and Mediterranean dishes - some served in traditional copper pots and earthenware bowls - whilst the daily menus and seasonal specials, like homemade chestnut gnocchi with porcini mushrooms, are a great value.QZiherlova 36, tel. +386 (0)1 280 88 92/+386 (0)41 712 806, www.podvrbo.si. Open 11:00 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun open by prior arrangement. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

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Restaurants Vodnikov Hram Named after Valentin Vodnik, who’s widely regarded as one of the first Slovene poets and journalists and also lends his name to the adjacent square, this is one of the better known places to sample traditional Slovenian cuisine in Ljubljana. Dining under its vaulted brick ceilings is a recommended experience, as is grabbing a coffee or ice cream on the terrace while you’re waiting for the nearby funicular railway to ferry you up to the castle.QD/E-3, Vodnikov Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)12 34 52 60, vodnikov.hram@gmail.com, www.vodnikov-hram. si. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-24).

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kratochwill

Asian

Kratochwill Here at Ljubljana IYP, we won’t even attempt to deny that we are beer lovers. How can we fail to love, in that case, a gostilna featuring an award-winning brewery with 30 years of history and a Czech brewmeister at the helm? Kratochwill, with three locations throughout town, produce an excellent variety of beers that perfectly compliment that excellent Kuhinja Krušič Aside from the Euro, nothing has stirred up more disagreement amongst Europeans in recent years than horse meat - Slovenia being one of the countries where people largely have no problem with horses finding their way onto kitchen tables. Like-minded visitors in Ljubljana will thus surely want to add the family-run Krušič to their itinerary. Operating a butchery for over a century, it’s one of the country’s top suppliers of horse meat, which also dominates the menu in various different forms at the restaurant on the same premises. Various appetisers, stews, cured meats and of course steaks from horse are on offer here, all of which can be enjoyed in the charming little dining room or taken away.

QL-3, Bezenškova 11, tel. +386 (0)1 544 61 41, www. mesarstvo-krusic.si. Open 08:00-16:00 Mon-Wed, 08:0022:00 Thur-Fri. Closed Sat-Sun and holidays. LS

CHINESE RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA Masarykova 21, 1000 Ljubljana 00 386 (0) 30 318 377 36 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

traditional food on offer. The Venison Goulash comes highly recommended, and we truly can’t back that recommendation up enough. All this comes at a more than affordable price, with half a litre of their beer coming in at less than €3.

We couldn’t ask for more.QŠmartinska 152, tel. +386 (0)40 67 90 65, btckratochwill@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Špajza An exceedingly classy affair with chunky, creaking wooden floors, a number of different rustic-feel rooms to eat in, an extensive menu of Slovenian and international dishes, and an antique silver cash register in the entrance. Located on one of the old town’s quaintest most photogenic streets, it’s popular with many people including business professionals, tourists and couples. During the summer months they have one of the most romantic courtyards in Ljubljana.QD-5, Gornji Trg 28, tel. +386 (0)1 425 30 94, info@spajza-lj.si, www.spajza-restaurant. si. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€7.50-15).

JA6GBS Vander Restaurant More than a hotel restaurant, Vander Urbani is a top destination for exquisite dining in Ljubljana’s old town. Head chef Benjemin Launay adds a modern touch to traditional Slovenian favourites, with dishes such as štruklji, jota and žlikrofi undergoing 21st century transformations that result in some truly delectable (and beautifully presented) cuisine. The so-called ‘deep dish’ lunch menu changes weekly, while the à la carte dinner menu is seasonal with only the freshest ingredients sourced from local markets, farmers and forests. We also like to stop by for breakfast when we get the chance, as the international atmosphere gives us the feeling of being on holiday.QD-4, Krojaška 6-8, tel. +386 (0)1 200 9000, info@vanderhotel. com, vanderhotel.com. Open Mon-Sat 07:00-11:00 (breakfast), 12:00-15:00 (lunch), 19:00-23:00 (dinner).

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Beli Labod Located a short walk east of the train station, don’t be put off by the fact that the sign outside advertisers both a Chinese restaurant and pizzeria, as the latter is an innocent remnant of the former occupant. Quite fittingly for a place called Beli Labod (Slovene for White Swan), the inner beauty here shines through, with excellent food and genuinely friendly service. There’s also a huge sunny terrace out front and free parking in the back. Among the many house specialties the so-called ‘hot plates’ stand out, since it’s a well-known fact that food just tastes better when it’s served on a sizzling iron dish. A second location is at Bizantova 22 in Medvode.QF-1, Masarykova 21, tel. +386 (0)30 318 377/+386 (0)64 198 748, info@belilabod.com, www.beli-labod.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

PTJALB Shambala Not only does Shambala’s kitchen turn out some of the best (and spiciest) Asian cuisine in Slovenia, but the tranquil, almost meditative, ambience of the place allows you to enjoy your meal in a state of perfect relaxation - with some of the best service in town thrown in as an added benefit. During the warmer months, diners can also take advantage of the pleasant little garden that is tucked away in one of the buildings inner courtyards. Situated down a narrow alleyway off Breg, this hidden gem is definitely worth finding.QC-4, Križevniška 12, tel. +386 (0)1 426 30 14/+386 (0)31 843 833, info@shambala.si, www. shambala.si. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€3.509.50). PTJAGBK Sushimama The first - and for a long time only - Japanese restaurant in Slovenia, the small and intimate Sushimama’s interesting little touches beyond the actual food include a subscription to Wallpaper magazine and the brave act of putting the head Japanese sushi chef Hiroki Ishikawa on display as he works in the restaurant. The extensive menu features every Japanese favourite from soups to noodle soups, a number of delicate rice- and noodle-based dishes to of course the sushi itself. Complimented by an extensive list of cocktails and wines, the restaurant is marking its terfacebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Sample traditional Slovene cuisine in the heart of the old town at Vodnikov Hram

ritory as the first and finest of its kind.QC/D-3, Wolfova 12, tel. +386 (0)40 70 20 70, www.sushimama.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€11-24). PJARG� BXS Tokyo Piknik Despite what the name may suggest, Tokyo Piknik offers a whole range of Asian cuisine as well as more recognisable Western dishes. With plenty of outdoor seating by the river, it represents another excellent option for a casual afternoon lunch or an atmospheric evening meal, another string to Ljubljana’s growing bow of Asian food. It also

GOSTILNICA Rimska XXI

With its low arched ceilings, moody red walls and touch of rustic furnishings this homey low-key restaurant has already become one of our favourite places to come when we’re in the mood for traditional Slovene cuisine it a great setting. Fresh homemade dishes of all sorts are are the speciality here, including deer, fish and wood-baked meats, and the menu changes daily depending on the season and whims of the head chef. Even the beer, juice and brandy is homemade, and there’s also an excellent selection of Slovene wines.QB-4, Rimska 21, tel. +386 (0)1 256 56 54, gostilnica.xxi@gmail.com, www.r-g.si/xxi. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€6-20).

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Restaurants

gourmet street food

its premises with a fish mongers from which fastidious diners can select their own fish. The main dining area has been carefully restored, with attention given to seemingly every detail - from the copper covered wiring to the heavy wooden furniture to the low arched brick ceiling. Aside from the expectedly wide variety of fish, our favourite dish is the fresh succulent calamari (easily amongst the best in town), while unbelievably cheap lunch specials (€3-7) can be ordered to take away all day.QD-3, Vodnikov Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1 434 94 45, info@rival-junior.si. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.

Indian happens to be the only real ramen bar in Slovenia, and all the noodles you will gorge on are completely hand-made.

Regardless of the time of day, the desserts are wonderful, both the taste and the aesthetics.QD-4, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 25, tel. +386 (0)30 60 88 08, romeo.plus@siol. net, www.tokyopiknik.com. Open 09:00 - 00:00.

Balkan Das Ist Valter If you’re wondering why one of Ljubljana’s most popular Balkan restaurants has a distinctly German name, the answer lies in the 1972 Yugoslav cult classic Valter Brani Sarajevo (Walter Defends Sarajevo). In addition to walls covered with the usual posters and other memorabilia,

the film itself actually plays continuously on loop, with a hushed silence coming over the entire place during the climax. Perhaps most impressive is the fact that it all feels completely authentic, while the heaping plates of grilled meat are not only mouthwateringly delicious, but also ridiculously inexpensive. Don’t forget to order a bottle (or five) of Sarajevsko pivo and save room for baklava.QF-2, Njegoševa 10, tel. +386 (0)1 430 5195, www. dasistvalter.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00. JB Gostilna Čad When you ask locals to name their favourite Balkan restaurant in Ljubljana, Čad is one of the most frequently heard answers. Situated by Rožnik Hill around corner from Tivoli Park, it’s also the longest-running restaurant of its kind in town, and guests can dine in the shady garden surrounded by nature or in the rustic homey interior. Specialising in spit and grilled dishes, the beefsteaks, grilled peppers and raznjici skewers all come highly recommended.QJ-3, Cesta Na Rožnik 18, tel. +386 (0)1 251 34 46, info@gostilnacad.si, www.gostilna-cad.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (€5-15).

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Namasté Set along the beautifully redeveloped Breg riverside walk in the old town, Namasté is the longest running Indian restaurant in all of Slovenia, and offers one of Ljubljana’s most romantic dining experiences of any flavour - with soft yellow hued lighting, hand-painted walls and a relaxed cosy atmosphere. The house specialties are dishes from the Rajastan and Punjab regions, which are prepared individually with spices directly imported from the subcontinent and can be ordered mild to extra hot. Sometimes we like to stop by just to savour a cup of spicy masala chai.QC/D-4, Breg 8, tel. +386 (0)14 25 01 59, fax +386 (0)1 236 20 27, info@restavracija-namaste.si, www.restavracijanamaste.si. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (€521). PTJA6UGBXS

The floating garden terrace at Gostilna As has to be experienced to be believed

International Argentino The journey out to BTC is well worth the effort, for Argentino really needs to be experienced to be believed. Huge and based on a classic Argentinean hacienda on two levels with further seating outside, the interior designer had a great time thinking this one up. Featuring vast paintings, enormous mirrors, video projectors, a fabulous bar and an even lovelier open kitchen, which turns out a dizzying array of mouth-watering Latin American dishes including some of the best steaks in Ljubljana. There’s also an

Fish Taverna Tatjana Dining at this impossibly quaint and homey house tucked away on Gornji Trg is akin going over to your aunt’s for dinner - if only your aunt were able to prepare exquisite Dalmatian dishes and lived in a house decorated to resemble the luxurious living quarters on an old wooden sailing ship. The tables are arranged haphazardly to take advantage of the various little nooks that provide for a more intimate meal, and there’s just the right amount of wear and tear that a place like this needs to feel authentic.QD-5, Gornji Trg 38, tel. +386 (0)1 421 00 87/+386 (0)41 707 900, taverna.labe@gmail.com, www.tavernatatjana.si. Open 17:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€7-24).

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Enjoy excellently spicy Asian cuisine at relaxing Shambala. photo

by Peter Irman

38 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Valentin Taking its name from the famed Slovene priest, poet and journalist, Valentin Vodnik, the restaurant is situated opposite his statue just north of the central market, and shares ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

One of a kind! 120 years of tradition 120 years or premium quality ...........................................................

Opening time- Every day 11:00-23:00 phone +386 (0)1 251 34 46 www.gostilna-cad.si

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Restaurants

Gostilna As One of Slovenia’s first truly world class restaurants when it opened its doors in the centre of Ljubljana more than a quarter century ago, in the years since it hasn’t missed a beat, still serving some of the very best Mediterraneaninspired cuisine in the city. For us the true standouts on the menu are the fantastic seafood specialties (both starters and main courses), but you also can’t go wrong with the steaks, grilled to order on an open-fire. When in doubt, you can rely on the friendly and professional staff for recommendations, as well as guidance with the equally superb wine list. A must for lovers of extravagant dining!QC-3, Čopova 5a (Knafljev Prehod), tel. +386 (0)1 425 88 22, gostilna.as@siol.net, www.gostilnaas.si.

Open 12:00 - 01:00. PJAGB excellent wine cellar with some 130 different Argentinean wines.QM-3, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. +386 (0)1 523 36 30, info@argentino.si, www.argentino.si. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri-Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun and holidays 12:00 - 17:00. (€5.20-45). PTAR6UILG� BXSW

mix of continental fare with some Slovenian flourishes, and the meals are inexpensive enough that your company’s expense account won’t feel a thing.QL-1, Dunajska 154, tel. +386 (0)1 588 25 00, ljubljana@austria-trend.at, www. austria-trend.at. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (€8-20). PO� TAULEGDSW

As Aperitivo The more casual dining wing of the legendary Gostilna As next door, Aperitivo is one of the top choices for business lunches, light snacks and afterwork drinks in the city centre. Inspired by the giant tree that still grows through the middle of it, the building was completely rebuilt in 2011, now consisting of a large airy space on the ground floor with a ‘floating’ terrace above, all of which is furnished with creations by some of the top names in design. For price-conscious diners there are gourmet daily set menus starting from only €8, while the excellent full à la carte menu focuses on Mediterranean cuisine and steaks.QC-3, Čopova 5a, Knafljev Prehod, tel. +386 (0)1 425 88 22, gostilna.as@siol.net, www.gostilnaas.si. Open 10:00 01:00. JAEBW

Bistro Platana Adjoined to the bar of the same name, Bistro Platana has an unbeatable location on Kongresni trg and some quality food to boot. A varied menu is on offer, with pastas, meat and fish dishes on offer among much more. We’re particularly fond of their collection of stuffed squid, which was new for us! The Kosilo Ljubljana (Lunch Ljubljana) offer is the real winner however, four courses of traditional Ljubljana food with a glass of Slovenian wine thrown in.QKongresni trg 7, tel. +386 (0)1 251 35 97, mirjam.jurca@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

Austria Trend The hotel is undeniably focused on the business traveller and this, their four-part restaurant and lounge follows in the same spirit. The stylish lounge is found just as you enter with full coffee and spirits offerings. Inside the restaurant is divided into three parts which range from wide open bistro style to more formal intimate settings. The food is a 40 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Café Romeo Red leather seating with some very strange lighting indeed and the pinkest walls you ever did see, makes Romeo easy to spot along the narrow cobbled streets of the old town. A great place for good value Mexican and fusion food for all the family during lunchtime or, later on, for a buzzy little cocktail adventure with the great and the good of the city. They also happen to make some of the best crepes in town.QD-4, Stari Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)1 426 90 11, romeo.plus@siol.net, www.caferomeo.si. Open 10:00 - 01:00. PJA6UGBXSW ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Marley & Me Acres of stripped pine, friendly professional service and one of the best kitchen smells in the city, this intimate bistro-type restaurant is comes highly recommended. Standouts from the small yet varied menu include the large and tasty salads, delicious pastas and some truly memorable meat and fish dishes. Be warned though, the place is immensely popular, and waiting for a table during the day is a common occurrence.QD-4, Stari Trg 9, tel. +386 (0)8 380 66 10/+386 (0)40 564 188, info@marleyandme.si, www.marleyandme.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (€3-22). €€.

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Hotel Cubo Restaurant For fine modern dining right in the heart of the city centre, look no further than the ground floor of Hotel Cubo. Just steps away from some of Ljubljana’s top cultural venues (Cankarjev Dom, Drama Theatre and the Slovenian Philharmonic) Cubo is a popular choice for a pre- or postperformance dinner. The tranquil interior and professional service also makes it a common destination for important business lunches, while gourmet cuisine is creatively prepared with the freshest ingredients, and complimented by an exquisite wine list. Free kerbside valet service and shuttles for groups of four or more guests are added bonuses.QC-4, Slovenska 15, tel. +386 (0)1 425 60 30, www.hotelcubo.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PJALW Le Petit Restaurant Discovered by following the gorgeous spiral staircase inside the Parisian-style café of the same name, Le Petit’s restaurant eschews the cosmopolitan French capital in favour of the luxury and sophistication of the Cote d’Azur with predictably glamorous results. A diverse range of cuisine is on the menu, with extra attention paid to the aesthetics. It has been said that we eat with our eyes, and boy is this true in the case of Le Petit.QC-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 4, tel. +386 (0)1 251 25 75, info@lepetit.si, www.lepetit.si. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Holidays closed. (€8-21).

PJAGW facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Sample a taste of the Cote d’Azur at Le Petit

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Restaurants Romansa 1971 This restaurant on the ground floor of the Maxi Market shopping centre still manages to exude a small bistrolike ambiance, thanks in large part to its pleasant soft lighting, beige tones and open kitchen. Floor to ceiling windows and ample seating on the terrace also offer some prime people watching for those who are interested. The menu tends towards light and fresh international dishes, and the place is exceedingly popular for business lunches - which can be viewed in advance on the restaurant’s website.QC-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. +386 (0)51 285 339, romansa.maxi@mercator.si, www.maxi.si. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. PJALB Stara Mačka Ljubljana’s original steakhouse has occupied some prime real estate along the Ljubljanica river just steps from Prešeren Square for longer than we can remember. The mouthwatering steaks come in various different sizes and cuts, and are complimented with equally well-prepared side dishes. They also offer lighter fare such as seafood dishes and some incredible salads, while the outside terrace is a popular spot to linger over cocktails during the warmer months of the year. In the autumn and winter the interior dining space offers a cosy retreat from the elements.QD-3/4, Krojaška 8, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 49, info@ staramacka.si, www.staramacka.si. Open 09:00 - 03:00. €€€. PJA6UEGBW

Maxim In the heart of the city centre this modern, business-orientated restaurant provides a fine menu of dishes including duck breast with mashed potatoes, soups, seafood, and a galaxy of fabulous puddings. There’s a huge wine list too, and a nice terraced area complete with water features for quality outdoor summer dining. Popular with professional locals and foreigners alike.

QC-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. +386 (0)51 28 53 35, www.maxi. si. Open 12:00-23:00 Mon-Fri, and Sat by prior agreement.

Closed Sun. (€19 and more). PJALGBS Plato Located right in the centre of town next to one of Ljubljana’s most recognisable modern buildings - a twisting white office tower that takes some interesting architectural liberties - this restaurant is something of an oasis above the bustling square below. The lunch-time only menu is international with a focus on light and healthy Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and can change daily depending on what is in season or just especially fresh that day at local markets. If you’re not too keen on the day’s set menus you can also order à la carte.QC-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 80, plato@siol.net, plato.si. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€4.5 - 22). PTJAGBXSW Plaza Hotel Restaurant The hotel restaurant at the magnificent towering Plaza Hotel in BTC is an expectedly resplendent affair, befitting of its four-star home and largely business clientele. The menu is short and focussed, ensuring freshness while 42 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

also offering enough variety to satisfy most tastes. Dishes include Slovene specialities (such as Idrija’s famed žlikrofi and various homemade cured meats), as well as international standards.QM-3, Bratislava 8, tel. +386 (0)1 243 00 00, info@plazahotel.si, www.plazahotel.si. Open for dinner 19:00-22:00. PALW Pri Levu When the world-class Hotel Lev was constructed in 1964, it was built on the site of what had been a well-known local restaurant called Pri Levu. In 2009, the restaurant was finally reopened (or at least re-imagined) within the hotel itself, and has since become one of the city’s top spots to dine. The wine list is also one of the most impressive around, as are the beautifully presented desserts, while the ambience is decidedly elegant without being pretentious.QC-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. +386 (0)1 308 7600, info@prilevu.si, www.prilevu.si. Open 11:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PJA Promenada Just steps from Prešeren Square, Promenada restaurant (and the café of the same name next-door) occupies a prime riverside location with great drinking and eating options. The menu features a fine selection of Slovenian wines complemented by spiced Balkan grills, hearty Slovenian fare and delicate seafood dishes, while the restaurant’s woodfired oven doesn’t just provide a cosy atmosphere, from it emerge some very tasty pizzas.QPetkovškovo Nabrežje 9, tel. +386 (0)8 383 10 82, info@restavracija-promenada. si, www.restavracija-promenada.si. Open 12:00 - 24:00. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Štern The sprawling country-style restaurant located within the premises of the Ljubljana Resort in the north of the city frequently hosts celebrations, reunions and other such large jovial gatherings. Another option for groups in search of fresh air is arranging a picnic in advance, which includes food, drinks and use of the resorts facilities. The menu is focussed primarily on grilled and fried meat dishes with healthy heaps of side orders, but the fish is also excellent - it is located next to the Sava River after all. Try to visit on Saturday nights, when there are themed culinary nights with live music and the doors stay open late.QL-1, Dunajska 270, tel. +386 (0)1 589 01 28/+386 (0)51 348 994, info@gpl.si, www.gostilna-stern.si. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

TAL Za Pumpo The creatively named Za Pumpo, which means ‘behind the gas station’, is located (surprisingly) behind a petrol station in the vicinity of several university faculties, and consistently tasty food, generous portions and low prices make it a popular choice with students and other locals alike. The huge menu has something for everyone including Balkan and Italian classics as well as hearty Slovene dishes, all complimented by a fine selection of quality Slovenia wines. There are also some good looking breakfast offerings.QJ-4, Tržaška 46, tel. +386 (0)41 777 772, zapumpo@siol.net. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

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Restaurants in to sample a few glasses of wine.QD-3, Ribji Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)31 764 063, info@tabar.si, www.tabar.si. Open Mon, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 00:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00.

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Latin American Casa Mulata The dream-turned-reality of three of the most infectiously passionate people we’ve met, the explosion of colour and joy as you enter immediately opens up each sense. Classic Brazilian (and Dominican) dishes are given new spins, with the shared platter options particularly good value. An immense buffet (it must be seen to be believed) is on offer during the evening, and a lunch menu provides the perfect choices for a light afternoon eat at a good price. The cocktails are perfect, and we don’t throw that word around lightly. With Latin music and dancing in tow, Casa Mulata is happiness within four walls.QNazorjeva 4, tel. +386 (0)59 03 51 52, casamulata. slovenija@gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 00:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 16:30 - 01:00. Closed Sun. TJEBK

tabar.si

Rodizio do Brasil 23.01.14 20:46 Slovenia’s first Brazilian restaurant has quickly became one of Ljubljana’s top dining destinations since it opened in December. Modelled after Brazil’s traditional rodízio style steakhouse restaurants, patrons pay a fixed price for unlimited quantities of high quality grilled meat that is brought to the table on large skewers hot from the grill and accompanied by a huge selection of hot and cold dishes from the buffet (many of which are even vegetarian). For the full on Brazilian experience come on a night when there’s a dance performance and order a few extra rounds of Caipirinhas - just make sure to reserve a table in advance.QTrg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 1, tel. +386 (0)40 316 341/+386 (0)31 250 247, info@brasil.si, www. brasil.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. €€€. PJAEB

Mediterranean Allegria Tucked away in a courtyard behind a large terrace, this long-running Ljubljana eatery prepares exemplary Mediterranean cuisine, with an emphasis on dishes from Slovenia’s coastal regions. Seasonal specials are regularly offered, and the entire menu is naturally complimented by an excellent wine list. The steaks and homemade gnocchi are among our favourite dishes, but for something really unique try the Kraški risotto, which is made using Jamar sir (a cheese aged in a cave 70m underground).QC-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 74 02, info@allegria.si, www.allegria.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€7-19).

PTJA6UEGBSW TaBar This ultra-modern new concept restaurant and bar combines Slovenian-style tapas with an excellent selection of wines from some of the country’s top producers. The menu has a strong Mediterranean influence, featuring everything from tender prosciutto and salami to roasted octopus and baked shrimp - all prepared with fresh local ingredients in an open kitchen, where you can watch the magic happen if you’re lucky enough to find an open seat. For those adverse to making decisions, there are three- and five-course tasting menus selected by the chef (our preferred option), while many patrons simply drop 44 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Skuhna A truly unique culinary and social venture, Skuhna is the result of a joint-effort by two Slovene non-profits to help better integrate the country’s vibrant migrant community, while at the same time offering locals the opportunity to experience diverse foods and cultures from around the world.

The project initially provided training for several full-time chefs, who now organise an ongoing programme of lunches, dinners, workshops and catering services. You can taste authentic cuisine from around the world for lunch everyday, while on Saturday evenings dinner is available, which is usually accompanied by music, presentations or other cultural elements. A full calendar of upcoming events and lots of other info can be found on the official website and Facebook page.QE-3, Trubarjeva 56, tel. +386 (0)41 339 978, skuhna@skuhna.si, www.skuhna.si. PTJE Yildiz Han Set on the ground floor a beautiful century-old villa just behind castle hill, the city’s only Turkish restaurant is just a few minutes’ walk from the old town, yet is still something of an undiscovered gem for most residents and tourists alike. Decorated in traditional Turkish style, with low tables and cushy seating, carpets on the walls and Ataturk above the door, as impressive as it all looks, the food still manages to exceed expectations. An already lengthy menu is supplemented with regional specialities on a regular basis, and complimented with a surprisingly good selection of Turkish wines. At the weekends diners are treated to bellydancing shows, and a resident fortune-teller is often on hand to read what your coffee grounds tell about your future. It’s always a good idea to book ahead.QE-5, Karlovška 19, tel. +386 (0)1 426 57 17, yildiz@siol.net, www.yildiz-han.com. Open 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€6-12). PJAUGBS

Pizza Foculus Magnificently decorated once you’re through the slightly out of place automatic doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted ceilings and red, yellow and orange plates built into the roof of the large wood-fired pizza oven.

The large and busy Foculus specialises in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for vegetarians and eight with seafood.

The salads are also particularly good. The place can get rather hectic in the evenings, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait a few minutes for a table. It was also recently named Best Pizzeria in Ljubljana by IYP readers.QC-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 92 95, foculus@siol. net, www.picerija.net/foculus.htm. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (€5.70-8.40). PTJAUGBS facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

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Restaurants Parma A quirky little one, this. As well as a couple of ordinary tables, most dining here is done at the large bar from where the food is cooked and served. Find an empty stool, make your order and away you go. And while you’re waiting for your pizza to arrive, take a look at the large photographs on the wall of the construction of the area you’re eating in.

Find it hidden away down the stairs and on the right at the southern end of Maxi Market.QB/C-4, Trg Republike 2, tel. +386 (0)1 426 82 22, foculus@siol.net, www.picerija.net/ parma.htm. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€3.90-6.20). TJA6ULGBXSW Pizzeria Osmica Located on the pedestrian street that runs parallel to Čopova, Osmica is essentially the pizza annex of the longer-running Allegria in the courtyard around the corner. The menu boasts over two dozen pizzas, and several choice of salad, lasagna and tortillas are also on offer in the comfortable rustic setting - think lots of wood and exposed stone with an open kitchen.

We stop by for lunch or grab a pizza to go on the way home quite often, but if we were forced to choose a favourite it’d have to be the Tartufo, which comes heaped with prosciutto, salami, parmesan and of course truffle oil.QC-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 58 72, info@osmica.si, www.osmica. si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€5.50-8.30). PTJA6UBSW

Quick Eats

Krojaška 8, 1000 Ljubljana t : 00386 / 1 25 11 749 e: info@staramacka.si www.staramacka.si

*** Odprto: pon-ned 09-03 ***

Burger King After being more or less raised on fast food in the US, we consider ourselves something of an expert on the subject, and as such we can say unequivocally that Burger King easily comes out ahead when compared to any other internationally known burger joint (not naming any names of course). If you don’t believe us, head to the food court on the first floor of CityPark and try a Whopper for yourself.

QM-2, Šmartinska 152 (Citypark), tel. +386 (0)1 520 01 47. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 15:00. (€2.80-5.80). PTAULGS

BUREK Burek is the universal and ubiquitous Balkan snack that simply has to be tried when you’re in the region. From the Turkish word bur, meaning to twist, burek comes in all manner of shapes and sizes but are essentially a baked filo pastry snack with a savoury filling, usually flavoured minced beef, cheese and/or spinach, best enjoyed with the addition of lashings of plain yoghurt.

Burek can be found ready to eat, cheap and piping hot in bakeries and speciality places operating out of little more than an open window, especially around the bus station. Variations on the burek theme can be found as far and wide as Israel, where they have the burekas, and even in Lithuania where they eat something not unlike a burek that they call a čeburekai. Enjoy.

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Burrito Loco The concept of this newly opened Mexican takeaway in the centre of town will be immediately familiar to anyone who has eaten at one of the widely popular Chipotle Mexican Grills whilst in the United States, namely, huge missionstyle burritos prepared to order with your choice of fresh ingredients. The menu also includes quesadillas, soft tacos and salads, but for us the real standout here is the pulled pork burrito with guacamole. If you like what you taste, ask for a stamp card - collect ten stamps and the eleventh burrito is free.QC-4, Slovenska 6, tel. +386 (0)31 897 694, www.facebook.com/burritolocoLJ. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. €. JNS Hot Horse A true Ljubljana institution, a stop at Hot Horse is a must for all first-time and returning visitors. The legendary horseburger is not only an original Slovenian creation, but is also healthy, low in fat and rich in protein and iron, and the menu now boasts a wider variety than ever before, including wraps, steaks and hot dogs, all of which come with your choice of toppings and condiments. Hot Horse was also twice selected by our readers as the Best Fast Food restaurant in Ljubjana.

Visit their large modern kiosk near the arena in Tivoli Park, or their other outlets in BTC and Rudnik near Rutar.QB-2, Tivoli Park, tel. +386 (0)1 521 14 27, master@hot-horse.si, www. hot-horse.si. Open 09:00 - 06:00. J6UBXS Klobasarna It’s not often you find a restaurant where the menu consists largely of one item, but when the famed Kranjska Klobasa is the dish in question then that’s really all you need. Taking its name from the city of Kranj, this hearty sausage was at the centre of so-called ‘klobasa wars’ between Slovenia and Austria (and later Croatia) over the rights to the EU-protected name. History and politics aside, this trendy takeaway opposite the Cathedral is the best place to taste what all the ado is about. They also serve the traditional Slovene dishes jota and ričet, hearty stews that go great with the famed sausage.QCirilMetodov 15, tel. +386 (0)51 605 017, info@klobasarna. si, www.klobasarna.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JS

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Restaurants

Restaurants Loving Hut The world’s fastest growing (and perhaps only) international vegan fast food chain, Loving Hut has finally opened an outlet in the city centre two years after setting up a takeaway stand in Mestni Log. Located opposite the main bus and train station, stepping inside this oasis of peacefulness and serenity makes us feel healthier and more relaxed before we even order. Offering an assortment of vegan dishes, including surprisingly delicious kebaps, burgers and Wiener schnitzel, Loving Hut is an attractive alternative to the usual fast food options found in these parts - even for non-vegans like us.QD-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 14, tel. +386 (0)68 126 970, lovinghutljubljana@ gmail.com, www.lovinghut.si. Open 07:30 - 22:30, Sat 10:00 - 22:30, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €.

World Cuisine

Bazilika Bistro proves that healthy organic food can be quite tasty

Surf’n’Fries We recently began noticing people carrying around boxes of fries (or chips as we would say) in the city centre, and it turns out that this place is the culprit. We’re still not sure where the ‘surf’ part of the name comes in (as seafood is not on the menu), but they do offer heaping portions of fries prepare in a variety of ways and accompanied by a selection of sauces, as well as some deep fried chicken dishes to satisfy the non-vegetarians. Open late, because everything fried tastes better after a night of drinking.QC-3, Plečnikov Trg. Open 06:00 - 04:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. €2.10-4.50. Žak Located under the hulking Ajdovščina building just off a busy crossroads, this French-style bakery whips up tasty snacks that, judging by the constant lines, tempt a fair number of workers from the surrounding offices to extend their smoke breaks. Their freshly-prepared viennoiseries, gourmet bread, sandwiches and salads cost slightly more than the pre-packaged brands found in all the supermarkets, but are well-worth the premium.

QC-2, Dalmatinova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 74, fs-lj@ siol.net, www.pekarna-zak.si. Open 06:30 - 19:00, Sat 06:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. €0.50 - 3.00. JS

Many more Restaurants online at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com 50 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Vegetarian Bazilika Bistro A Mecca for lovers of fresh, healthy, organic foods, Bazilika is located in a beautiful high-ceilinged space in the city centre opposite the Presidential Palace and just around the corner from the Academy of Fine Arts. While countless proprietors claim to use only fresh locally-sourced ingredients, Bazilika actually posts photos of daily visits to local farmers, markets and gardens to their social media pages, assuring patrons that the various sandwiches, sweet and savoury pies, salads, soups, smoothies and other vegetarian and vegan-friendly treats that they turn out are as authentic as they are delectable. Daily 3-course lunch specials are written on the roll of brown recycled paper behind the counter.QB-4, Prešernova 15, tel. +386 (0)1 244 62 75, druzina@bazilika.si, www.bazilika.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JABSW

NEW The 5 Kitchen & Bar Found just a few steps from the Central Market and Dragon Bridge, The 5 is unlike any other restaurant in Ljubljana. The concept behind the place is to bring the best tastes from five continents to the same kitchen (hence the name), and the food, atmosphere and service are all roundly excellent.

The menu is limited to a handful of exquisitely prepared and presented seasonal dishes, with daily offers displayed on the chalkboard above the bar. And speaking of the bar, the unique house cocktails all come highly recommended.

QE-4, Streliška 22, tel. +386 (0)59 050 133, social@ the5.si, the5.kitchen. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€.

Around Ljubljana If you’re looking to get out of town and enjoy a traditional home-cooked meal in the countryside - and we highly suggest that you do - the restaurants listed below are a great place to start!

Gostilna Pr’ Kopač A special intuitive attachment exists in an individual towards home cooking. Creating this kind of atmosphere in a public space takes some work, but Gostilna Pr’ Kopač in Brezovica have managed just that. The continually evolving family enterprise has taken what was happening in their kitchen into the public, and the results are clear to see. Traditional Slovene cuisine is the order of the day, with a very affordable a la carte menu to boot.QTržaška 418, Brezovica, tel. +386 (0)1 365 30 66, info@pr-kopac.com, www.pr-kopac.com.

Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

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Cafés

Cafés

Caffe Promenada Having a drink along the banks of the Ljubljanica is a quintessential Ljubljana experience, and one of the best spots for it is at Café Promenada just across the river from the central market. Sitting at Promenada represents the city’s laid back lifestyle at its best - relax over a morning coffee or enjoy a glass of wine in the evening while watching the river and pedestrians flow by.QPetkovškovo Nabrežje 9, tel. +386 (0)8 383 10 82.

Enjoying a relaxing coffee along the Ljubljanica is every Slovene’s god-given right

Bar Platana Occupying some prime real estate on Kongresni trg, Platana offer everything you would expect from a classy bar and bistro in the centre of town. Superb coffee, freshly-squeezed juices and a variety of a wines and champagnes are on offer among other things, but it really is the shaded outdoor seating that is the big pull. We can’t think of a better place to sit and watch the beautiful people stroll by on an afternoon.

A variety of breakfasts, snacks, sandwiches and cigars are also available.QKongresni trg 7, tel. +386 (0)1 251 35 97, mirjam.jurca@gmail.com. Open 06:00 - 01:00.

Bazilika Shop & Cafe Right next to the courthouse and in one the busiest areas of Ljubljana, this café is one of the closest things you’ll find to an oasis in the city. As soon as you enter, you feel how you leave the bustle and noise of the city behind and are welcomed by very soothing music and décor. A great place to come and study, use your laptop or just surf the net. Try the excellent coffee and sandwiches. Great service too.QD-2, Miklošičeva 22, tel. +386 (0)41 530 539, druzina@bazilika.si, www.bazilika.si. Open 07:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PJSW Café Plato A stylish café offering a wide selection of great ice creams, cakes and tiny tarts in a unique glass-walled space right in the centre of town, its outdoor seating area is a fine place for some people watching on a sunny afternoon. There’s also a restaurant upstairs, so if you’re feeling like a bit more than a snack you may want to inquire about what’s 52 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

on offer that day.QC-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 80, plato@siol.net, plato.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€2-3). PTJA6G� BKSW

Coffee & Ice Cream Cacao Boasting an unbeatable location just steps from Ljubljana’s famed Prešernov Trg, Cacao is the city’s top destination for ice cream lovers - overwhelmingly voted as having the best ice cream in town in each and every In Your Pocket Best of Summertime competition to date. It’s large tree-shaded terrace along the banks of the Ljublajanica also gets top marks for atmosphere, while the laid-back chocolate brown interior is a great place to chill out with a mouthwatering slice of gourmet cake or freshly prepared fruit smoothie. One of our, and seemingly everyone else’s, favourites.QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 3, tel. +386 (0)1 430 17 71, info@cacao.si, www.cacao. si. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Summertime 08:00 - 00:00.

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Flancat This trendy little café bar is the newest edition to the Petkovškovo promenade, one of Ljubljana’s favourite drinking spots. Flancat is not alone in offering a pleasant riverside setting with the castle as a backdrop, though it stands out from the crowd with a solid drinks list featuring quality Slovenian wines and good beers including draught Weihenstephaner - very tasty beer from the world’s oldest brewery. A great selection of cocktails is available as well as Flancat’s speciality and namesake sweet - a delicate Slovenian pastry which goes fabulously with coffee.QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 23, flancat@siol.net. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

Kapuciner Sitting alone on the south side of Kongresni Trg, Kapuciner is a relaxing spot to grab a drink especially when the sun is shining down on the large promenade. This sleek all day café and bar satisfies caffeine cravings all day long, whilst they also have a selection of tasty sweet treats. Kapuciner’s drinks list is better than most around town with some fine local wines and a few good beers to choose from.QC-4, Kongresni Trg 15, tel. +386 (0)83 815 604, kapuciner@ markov.si, www.kapuciner.si. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00.

Kavarna Mozaik Tucked away in an easy-to-miss square in Šiška, Kavarna Mozaik is most definitely a mixture of modern interior and quality married to old-fashioned tranquillity. In a world of cafés open to ungodly hours to maximise profit through alcohol, the slow pace Mozaik offers really appeals. This isn’t to say they are lacking in drinks of course, with a fine selection of international beers sidling up to excellent Illy coffee and an abundance of top quality cakes and snacks, all provided by the oh-so-friendly staff. Well worth the trek out.Q15 Komendanta Staneta, tel. +386 (0)59 06 10 facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

66, info@kavarna-mozaik.si, www.kavarna-mozaik.si.

Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.

Kavarna Rog Kavarna Rog is one of our favourite cafés around - and not only because it’s a 30 second walk from our flat. Located along the Ljubljanica below the old Rog bicycle factory, the café is one of the few places in town where you can find a proper breakfast, and the lengthy menu of gourmet soups, sandwiches, salads and desserts (not to mention wines) makes it a popular lunchtime stop. It stays open late as well, and the dark and moody modern interior is perhaps best suited for a drink than anything else.QF-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 67, tel. +386 (0)1 6200 260, www. kavarna-rog.si. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (€3-9). Holidays 08:00-24:00. PTJAUBW

The best coffee in Ljubljana :) fresh sendwiches, croissants, fresh cakes, selected wines

Coffeeshop Kapuciner Kongresni trg 15, Ljubljana www.kapuciner.si E-mail: kapuciner@markov.si www.facebook.com/kapuciner.kavarna

Open: mon. - sat. 7.00-24.00, sun. 8.00-22.00 October - November 2014

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Cafés

Nightlife Coffee & Cakes

A Slice of Culinary Heaven.

Daily fresh and with contemporary recipe, Cake Ljubljana is made from traditional Slovenian ingredients.

Cake Ljubljana is one of the “Tastes of Ljubljana”- dishes typical for the capital of Slovenia. Bon appetit-Dober tek!

www.facebook.com/TortaLjubljana info@tortaljubljana.si +386 (0)41 272 433 / + 386 (0)30 300 618 Le Petit Café Close your eyes, and try to imagine a café called Le Petit that happens to be sitting on a square named after the French Revolution. Le Petit café will match your imaginings and then some. Our first thought was adorable, but there is so much more to it than this. An excellent choice for breakfast or an afternoon coffee, Parisian chic abounds with added elegance and grace, whether you choose to sit outside or in the none-more-romantic inside.QC-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 4, tel. +386 (0)1 251 25 75/+386 (0)51 605 400, info@lepetit.si, www.lepetit.si. Open 07:30 - 01:00. PTJA6UGBSW

Frozen Yogurt Fresh Point Recently opened on Miklošičeva, Fresh Point is a darling little café dealing in frozen yogurt, and boy is it good. The bright interior exudes joy, from where you have a choice of four yogurt flavours to be enhanced by a gloriously huge selection of toppings, with everything from fresh fruits to candy to chocolate and everything else in between. There’s almost too much choice, which is not something we’re going to complain about. Delightful staff rounds off this little charmer.QMiklošičeva 7a, tel. +386 (0)51 37 37 95, www.fresh-point.si. Open 07:30 - 20:00, Fri 07:30 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 14:00 - 20:00.

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Fetiche Patisserie Summer time is a time where our sweet tooth is given full freedom to flourish, and we’re basically saying that summer equals ice cream. Ljubljana is full of good ice cream options, and Fetiche Patisserie on Cankarjevo nabrežje is without doubt one of the best. An impressively wide selection is enhanced by the dedication to natural and genuine flavour. You’ll find nothing less than 100 per cent fruit here. Fetiche also possess a mouth-watering array of sweets that are as good as impossible to resist. Indulge yourself, it is summer after allQD-4, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 25, tel. +386 (0)40 70 03 70, www.fetichepatisserie. com. Open 09:00 - 01:00.

Sladkarnica in Marmeladnica Lotos We always thought cupcakes were more style than substance, but the Lotos sweets and jam shop on Breg have managed to combine both, offering gorgeous cupcakes which taste great, each spiralling high with icing or cream and hiding a delectable filling. A family run business, Lotos do things the old fashion way using no artificial preservatives or colours, whilst its jams (more than 25 varieties!) are jam packed with fruit. Also on offer are baked goods (sweet and savoury), fruit salad, frozen yogurt topped with Lotos’ fabulous jam and decaf coffee to go which despite lacking caffeine tastes great.QBreg 16, sladkarnicainmarmeladnicalotos@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

Torta Ljubljana This takeaway cake shop in the Plečnik Arcade has much more to it than meets the eye. To begin with its eponymous Ljubljana Cake is the only sweet we know of in town that comes with its own creation myth, which involves a fickle lord living in Ljubljana Castle, a beautiful daughter waiting to be wed, and a plucky local chef who concocts the perfect recipe. The retro-style cake has been recreated using only typical Slovenian ingredients (including gluten free 100% buckwheat flour) and can be purchased in several sizes, all of which come in custom designed reusable packaging. The cakes can now also be found at Kavarna SEM, Nebotičnik and Bar Kofi Plac at BTC.QD-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 1, tel. +386 (0)30 300 618/+386 (0)41 272 433, info@ tortaljubljana.si. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.

As Aperitivo is perfect for a business lunch, or an afterwork drink

Bars 13 The narrowness of the building could have been considered an issue, but the team behind Café 13 have remarkably turned it into a plus. Tiled floors, oak walls and seating carved into those very walls give the feeling of being in a much more spacious place than is true, and the display of sweets in the centre will convince even those without a sweet tooth. If this isn’t enough, the large terrace provides another option.QC-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 5, tel. +386 (0)1 320 94 82. Open 07:30 - 01:00. PA6BW As Aperitivo Now housed in slick ultra-modern premises that have been the recipient of numerous design awards, this longrunning lounge bar is almost as much of a Ljubljana institution as its namesake restaurant next door. A top destination for the business set, Aperitivo is definitely one of the city’s more glamorous settings in which to grab a drink, the whole place turning into a large open-air terrace

during the warmer months. Live DJs keep the party going most nights, while the Italian head bartender prepares some masterful creations for thirsty patrons. Find it in a secluded courtyard just off of Prešernov Trg.QC-3, Čopova 5 (Knafljev Prehod), tel. +386 (0)1 425 88 22, gostilna. as@siol.net, www.gostilnaas.si. Open 10:00 - 01:00.

J6UBXW Fétiche A dark and moody, space-age cocktail bar on two levels complete with everything a cocktail bar should possess.

Sit in the company of wannabe supermodels and young boys with their expensive trousers falling down and gaze in wonder at the vast model pictures, retro furniture and the obligatory huge mirror ball. The cocktail menu is perhaps the largest in town, and all are made using only premium spirits and fresh fruit. There’s outside seating near the river too, and a French style patisserie next door.QD-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 25, tel. +386 (0)40 70 03 70, www.fetiche. si. Open 09:00 - 01:00. PJA6GBXW

Student Cafés KMŠ Café With its rather garish sofas, KMŠ (pronounced Ku - Mu - Sh) might not jump out as an obvious breakfast choice, but as you tuck into your eggs and bacon you’ll be more than convinced. The unique recycled newspaper walls offset the sofas, making for a fascinating interior. The breakfasts can also be taken away, but it is always recommended to sit inside and enjoy, with your choice from its large selection of coffees, excellent smoothies and delicious cocktails.

QTržaška 2, tel. +386 (0)1 425 74 80, www.klubkms.si.

Open 07:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

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Clubs En Pub If you’d like to experience the best of Belgrade’s legendary party scene without the hassle of a ten-hour train ride south, then En Pub in Šiška is one of the best options for an all-night Balkan-style party in the Slovene capital. Friday nights feature live bands and DJs playing a mix of fun Balkan music and international hits, while Saturdays see Serbian bands and DJs come to town. Both nights just about guarantee a packed house dancing away until the place finally closes at six in the morning. For a totally different take on Ljubljana, En Pub simply has to be experienced to be believed.QH-1, Celovška 150, tel. +386 (0)1 514 11 27, info@enpub.si, www.enpub.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri 07:00 - 06:00, Sat 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 09:00 23:00. PTA6UGBXW

Rollbar-Karting BTC Another reason to visit the huge BTC complex is this extraordinary place. Taking the gimmick of the race-car-theme-drinking-hole to its logical conclusion, this subterranean boozer not only comes complete with enough racing paraphernalia to start your very own F1 museum, it’s actually got a go-kart racing circuit. There are no drink-driving laws here, just a bunch of electric go-carts and a hangar-size space to wiggle them through. Not quite as tame as it sounds, these go-carts when running on full power have a top speed of 120km/h, restricted for obvious reasons here to a more sensible albeit still stupidly fast 65km/h.QM-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala 18), tel. +386 (0)1 585 25 70/+386 (0)51 603 333, www.indoor-karting. com. Open 07:30 - 23:00, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. AUEGBXW Žmauc Ask any tuned-in local to make a list of their favourite bars and they’re almost certain to put this place on the list. Covered in quality graffiti outside and always featuring a huddle of interesting-looking individuals smoking suspiciously large cigarettes by the entrance, the exterior is but a mild prelude to what’s inside. A smallish L-shaped bar is packed day and night with more strange characters amidst an interior design scheme straight from the pages of a Manga comic. Excellent for coffee or something a little stronger.

Highly recommended.QB-4, Rimska 21, tel. +386 (0)1 251 03 24, zmauc@siol.net. Open 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PJA6GB 56 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Klub K4 Twice voted the best club in Ljubljana by In Your Pocket readers, if you’re staying in a hotel in this part of town and your bed starts bouncing across the room in the middle of the night, the chances are the culprit can be found inside Klub K4. A very student-oriented club indeed, it’s hot and sweaty and the DJs play some of the weirdest, hardest stuff in the country. Brilliant stuff. Klub K4 also offers Roza (Pink) Party nights for the gay community. Check out their Facebook page or website for detailed programme info.QB-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. +386 (0)40 212 292, info@ klubk4.org, www.klubk4.org. Open , Wed 23:00 - 04:00, Thu 21:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PJAG KMŠ Hangover Well, what would you expect from a club with such a name?

Subtlety isn’t sitting too high on the menu, but the masses of revellers that pack it out aren’t going to grumble about that.

With a totally updated schedule of events prepped for winter, it covers all bases. Urban genres are king, with jungle, reggae, DnB and much more complimented by an impressive bassheavy sound that will shake you to the bones. Dancing is your

OPEN UNTIL 4AM EVERY DAY DJ ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

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If you’d like to party well into the morning, En Pub in Šiška is one of your top choices

only hope. The club has also recently launched Hangover Internet Radio, closely tied to the club and featuring live broadcasts from both local and international guests.QTržaška 2, tel. +386 (0)1 425 74 80, www.klubkms.si. Open 22:00 - 05:00.

Closed Sun. Radio weblink - www.hangoveradio.com.

Pubs Parlament Pub Knowing neither whether it’s a café or a bar, this peculiar oddity with its books on the shelves, shady characters and (you’ve guessed it) students is nonetheless a popular stop for the heavy drinking younger crowd. Known for cheap beer and cocktails (with 3 of the latter had for the price of 2), and lively international parties almost every night, it’s a great place to both start or end an evening out. The entrance and terrace are at the back side of the building on Plečnikov Trg.QC-3, Šubičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 251 32 43.

Open 08:00 - 04:00. PJA6UEGBXW Patrick’s Irish Pub Ljubljana’s quintessential Irish pub is popular with locals, expats and tourists alike, and over the years we’ve personally spent many a night entertaining visitors, watching sports on the big screen and generally drinking too much here. They’ve got (arguably) the largest selection of beer in town, with some 90 varieties to choose from, and often host events such as live Irish music concerts, pub quizzes and beer tastings. Find it down a small cobbled alleyway just off Trubarjeva Ulica.QD-3, Prečna 6, tel. +386 (0)1 230 17 68/+386(0) 41 581 333, www. irishpub-ljubljana.si. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PTJA6EGSW

Wine Bars Bubbles Champagne Bar Okay, so the idea of a champagne bar conjures up images of richer than rich oligarchs schmoozing, but let the addition of the word ‘bubbles’ put you at use. The former Vander Urbani has transformed into a quality champagne bar that will force you to rethink your preconceptions. With a great selection of champagne, many available by the glass, as well as a large variety of Slovene wines and not to mention some excellent food, Bubbles is sure to be another must-go place in town.

QKrojaška 6-8, tel. +386 (0)1 200 90 00, info@vanderhotel. com, vanderhotel.com. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

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Sightseeing

Sightseeing top 10 sights Zmajski Most (Dragon Bridge) One of the most photographed sights in Ljubljana, Zmajski Most, or Dragon Bridge, is also one of our personal favourites, topped with four ferocious dragons.QE-3, Resljeva Cesta.

Kongresni Trg Completely renovated in 2011, Kongresni Trg is home to some impressive buildings, and also frequently hosts events.

The name is often used by locals to refer to both the square and the adjacent Zvezda Park.

‘The Pink Church’, the Franciscan Church on Prešernov trg is truly iconic

Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for visitors to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town to Ljubljana’s multitude of museums and galleries are more than worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary combination of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik’s to the historic atmosphere of the Old Town to the occasional blast-to-the-past burst of retroYugoslav city planning all work together in harmony to create the most unique of cities.

Bridges Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) Perhaps Ljubljana’s most characteristic structure(s), the triple bridge is a curious merger of a 19th century road bridge (itself replacing a medieval wooden bridge), with two 1930s pedestrian bridges designed by Plečnik, who took the opportunity to do up the whole ensemble with lamps and stone balustrades.QD-3.

Zmajski Most (Dragon Bridge) Since it opened in 1901, Zmajski Most has been locked in a fierce competition with the castle and the conspicuously pink Franciscan Church for the title of Most Photographed Sight in Ljubljana. At any given moment during daylight hours (and only slightly less frequently at night) there is sure to be at least a person or two clicking away at one of the four large dragons guarding either side of the bridge or the smaller griffins that adorn the bottom of its eight lamp posts. Of course we’re no exception, as we still re58 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

member the fog shrouded photo we snapped on our first trip to the city way back in the forgotten days of analogue film. More recently some amateur artiste apparently felt that the mythical beasts were lacking a certain je ne sais quoi and took it upon themself to add a smattering of red paint to their mouths and claws. The jury is still out on whether or not this is an improvement but it does amuse us whenever we walk past.QE-3, Resljeva Cesta.

Buildings National University Library (Narodna in Univerzitetna Knjižnica) Known to locals by its Slovene acronym NUK, the library was originally established by Empress Maria Theresa in 1774 and moved to its current Plečnik designed building in 1941. Aside from serving as one of the country’s central educational and cultural institutions - containing some 2.6 million volumes -it’s also considered one of the prolific architect’s most monumental works, and is a must see for visitors to Ljubljana. Highlights include the somewhat schizophrenic brick and stone façade, the colonnaded central staircase and the massive main reading room. A planned expansion on nearby Zoisova Cesta has been in the works for nearly 20 years, but has been plagued by a host of problems most notably caused by the discovery of Roman ruins, which is a surprisingly common occurrence in and around the city.QC-4, Turjaška 1, tel. +386 (0)1 200 11 88, info@ nuk.uni-lj.si, www.nuk.uni-lj.si. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Križanke Consisting of several venues located inside a former monastery complex, the summer theatre is another Plečnik creation and one of the most atmospheric concert venues in the city.

Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski Grad) Definitely the most dominant sight in the city, in addition to its extremely photogenic appearance Ljubljana’s famed castle is home to a couple of excellent restaurants, exhibitions spaces and other venues. QD-4, Grajska Planota 1.

Metelkova Mesto F-1/2, Masarykova 24. Since squatters moved into these former army barracks in 1993, Metelkova has slowly grown into an established nightlife centre with various bars, clubs and arts spaces. QF-1/2 facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Prešernov Trg It’s no exaggeration to say that Prešeren Sqaure is not only the centre of Ljubljana, but truly the spiritual centre of the Slovene nation - and more practically the de facto meeting point in the city. QD-3, Prešeren Square.

River Boat Cruises Slowly meandering through the old town, the Ljubljanica river offers an interesting angle from which to take in the many sights, with a number of tourist boats obligingly plying its waters.

Tivoli Park Ljubljana’s central park, Tivoli offers countless paths, fields and play areas, as well as forest trails on Rožnik hill.

Facilities includes sports centres and a couple museums.

QA/B-2.

Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) Arguably Plečnik’s most famous work (though we would argue otherwise), the famed Triple Bridge connects Prešeren Square with the old town on the other side of the river.QD-3.

Tržnica Ljubljana’s large open-air central market is at its liveliest on Saturday mornings, when seemingly half of the city comes here to buy a week’s supply of fruit and vegetables directly from local farmers.

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Sightseeing Ljubljana castle

Perched on top of Castle Hill (Grajska Planota) and dominating the city skyline to the south, Ljubljana’s magnificent castle stands on the site of several former defensive buildings in a hilly area of land stretching away to the south of the old town. The current ensemble of buildings originates from necessary 16th-century reconstruction work following the earthquake of 1511, with several later additions.

The main points of interest for the visitor are the Outlook Tower (Razgledni Stolp), built in the 19th century and raised a further 1.2m by the government in 1982. The tower’s Virtual Castle screens a 12-minute film showing the interesting and informative history of the castle.

On the same floor find a small door that takes you to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron steps, each individually decorated with an image of the tower and the city’s dragon. A door at the top leads to a small viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with wonderful views of the city.

Underneath the tower, tucked away through a doorway in the corner of the courtyard, is the diminutive St George’s Chapel (Kapela sv Jurija), which is one of the oldest parts of the castle. It was renovated in Baroque style and in 1747 decorated with the coats-of-arms of over sixty rulers, including Herman and Ulrich of Celje, Henrik of Gorizia County, and Krištof Rauber, a bishop of Ljubljana.

A new and beautifully presented permanent Exhibition on Slovene History is now also open for visitors - see more info under Museums & Galleries. The castle also has a small art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions, a café, restaurant and souvenir shop. It’s also a popular place for local weddings, and during the summer puts on concerts and, in July, hosts a popular outdoor cinema. To reach it, several small paths lead up from the old town, or take the funicular next to the Puppet Theatre and open market.QD-4, Grajska Planota 1, tel. +386 (0)1 306 42 93, info-center@ ljubljanskigrad.si, www.ljubljanskigrad.si. October - March 10:00 - 21:00, April-September 09:00-23:00.

Full combined ticket €5-8, half combined ticket €36, Guided tour €6-10. Special discounts for families.

60 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Sightseeing Cemeteries Žale Cemetery (Pokopališče Žale) Built on the site of a much earlier cemetery attached to the neighbouring (and still standing) Holy Cross Church, what’s arguably Plečnik’s Ljubljana masterpiece was completed in 1940. The grand arched entrance complete with stark white colonnades supposedly represents the gateway between the lands of the living and the dead. Between them and the cemetery itself are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels and monuments including the Žale funeral home. Architectural styles abound, reflecting Plečnik’s vision of equality among religions. The cemetery itself, once you get there, is a pleasure to behold and is worthy of a good hour’s stroll.

The final resting place of many Slovenian greats including Plečnik himself, also find a small area given over to the Jewish population of the city.QL/M-2, Med Hmeljniki 2, tel. +386 (0)1420 17 00, info@zale.si, www.zale.si. Open 07:00 - 19:00. April-September 07:00-21:00.

Churches Cathedral (Stolnica Sv. Nikolaja) With its classic twin towers and trademark single, weather-worn green dome, the city’s cathedral, more properly known as St Nicholas’ Church, encapsulates everything that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too exciting at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer details reveals its hidden charm and beauty. Built on the site of a much earlier church, the cathedral’s main structure and appearance dates from the first half of the 18th century. Inside the Baroque masterpiece is a cavalcade of classic creams and golds, littered with extraordinarily detailed frescoes and possessing that calming feeling that only a great church can bring.QD-3, Dolničarjeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1234 26 70, lj-stolnica@rkc.si, lj-stolnica.rkc.si.

Franciscan Church (Frančiškanski Samostan) Built in an instantly recognisable, mildly swirly Baroque fashion, Ljubljana’s mid-16th-century Franciscan Church dominates Prešernov Trg like a big pink birthday cake. Part of a larger complex with an additional Franciscan monastery, if you’re lucky enough to find the doors unlocked expect a few treats inside including Robba’s 18th-century altar, some charming frescoes dating from 100 years or so later and a chapel notable for containing a cross designed by none other than Jože Plečnik. For those who don’t appreciate the finer points of ecclesiastic architecture, the front steps do at least provide a nice place to sit and watch the world go by on a gloriously sunny day.

QD-3, Prešernov Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)1242 93 00.

Museums & Galleries City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana) A magnificent museum run by a team of historians who know how to show people a good time, showcasing Ljubljana in all its good and bad colours throughout history.

Featuring both permanent and temporary exhibitions, this is the best place in town for a crash-course in city ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

history. Find scale models of unfulfilled Plečnik creations, elaborate costumes, old photographs and much more besides. Check out the fabulous little website for upcoming exhibitions.QC-4, Gosposka 15, tel. +386 (0)1241 25 00, info@mestnimuzej.si, www.mestnimuzej.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4/2,50. English-language guided tours last Sun at 11:00.

Museum of Contemporary Art (Muzej Sodobne Umetnosti Metelkova) Along with the Slovene Ethnographic Museum and a branch of the National Museum, the Museum of Contemporary Art rounds out Ljubljana’s newly christened Museum Quarter located between Metelkova and Tabor in the centre of the city. Nearly two years of renovations has transformed the former administrative building into the city’s most dynamic arts space, with rooms of all shapes and sizes situated around a vaulting central atrium. The museum is focussed on works from the 1960s to the present day, and boasts a permanent collection devoted to Eastern Europe’s postwar avant garde movement, as well as a selection of works from its sister institution, the Museum of Modern Art. Definitely a must-see for art fans.QF-2, Maistrova 3, info@mg-lj.si, www.mg-lj.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5 adults, €2.50 students/pensioners, €3.50 groups.

ljubljana zoo Ljubljana Zoo (Živalski Vrt) Located to the west of the city centre, and surrounded by the natural forests at the edge of Rožnik hill, the zoo is easily reached by public transport (bus 18), taxi (€34) or on foot (25-35 minutes). Thanks to its position it stays refreshing cool here during the summer months, and is completely insulated from the noise and commotion of the city throughout the year.QI-3, Večna Pot 70, tel. +386 (0)1 244 21 88, info@zoo.si, www. zoo.si. Open daily 09:00-16:00 in Jan-Feb, 09:0017:00 in Mar & Oct, 09:00-18:00 in Apr & Sept, and 09:00-19:00 May-Aug. Admission €7 for adults, €6 student/seniors, €4-5 children, €2 persons with disabilities, €1.5 dogs. Free for children under 2.

urbana card

Urbana Ljubljana Tourist Card Rated as one of Europe’s best city cards, Tourism Ljubljana’s Urbana offers free admission to all of the city’s main sights as well as free unlimited transport LPP’s extensive urban bus network. The card can be purchased at most hotels and all three of Ljubljana’s Tourist Information Centres (on Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje, at the main train station and on Krekov Trg). Prices are €23/30/35 for 24/48/72 hours, and the card - which contains RFID chip - is activated upon its first use. Order online and save 10% of the regular price!Qwww.visitljubljana.si. 24-hour card €23, 48hour card €30, 72-hour card €35. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Museum of Modern Art (Moderna Galerija) Following a lengthy renovation, the doors of Edvard Ravnikar’s Plečnik-inspired building have finally reopened to the public. Continuing on from where the National Gallery stops, the city’s excellent Museum of Modern Art houses a fine collection of Slovenian and international 20th-century art.QB-3, Tomšičeva 14, tel. +386 (0)12 41 68 00, info@mg-lj.si, www.mg-lj.si. Open Tues-Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission €5 for adults, €2.50 for students/pensioners. No admission fee first Sunday of every month.

National Museum of Slovenia (Narodni Muzej) Found lurking inside another of the city’s fine, late 19th-century neo-Renaissance buildings complete with fine painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, this is the oldest museum in country, founded way back in 1821. Permanent displays include an intriguing collection dedicated to the Slovenians and the Slovenian language alongside the usual bits and pieces of interest dug out of the ground, plus a large ensemble of almost 200 examples of carved stonework dating from Roman times excavated in the city and surrounding regions.QB-3, Prešernova 20, tel. +386 (0)12 41 44 00, info@nms.si, www.nms.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €4-8.5.

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Sightseeing Tourist information Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre (TIC) A small but extremely well equipped resource with plenty of maps, brochures galore in English, information about what’s on in the city and a range of information on what to see and do in the region. They also organise tours, can help with accommodation, and should be one of your first ports of call when you arrive. Their website is one of the best we’ve seen in Central Europe and is well worth further investigation. Friendly, informative staff too.QD-3, AdamičLundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. +386 (0)13 06 12 15, fax +386 (0)13 06 12 04, tic@visitljubljana.si, www. visitljubljana.com. Open daily Oct-May 08:00-19:00, June-Sept 08:00-21:00.

Slovenian Tourist Information Center (STIC) Ljubljana’s central tourist office is a bit larger and usually less crowded than the main branch located a few hundred metres away opposite Prešeren Square, and they also helpfully stock heaps of maps, brochures and general information for the entire country. Tickets for most events in and around town can be purchased, and the staff will gladly give you a run down of the various tours and excursions on offer. Bicycle rentals are also available for only €8 per day, and are a great way to see more of the city.QC-3, Krekov Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 306 45 75, fax +386 (0)1 306 45 80, stic@ visitljubljana.com, www.visitljubljana.com. Open Oct-May 08:00-19:00, Sat, Sun & holidays 09:0017:00, Jun-Sept 08:00-21:00 daily.

Parks & Gardens Tivoli Park Tivoli is where the people of Ljubljana who don’t leave the city spend the weekend. Laid out in 1813 as a place for the general health and recreation of the city’s population, at some five square kilometres, Ljubljana’s gargantuan bucolic lung - literally two streets west of the city centre - is so packed with good things to see and do that it’s almost worth visiting the Slovenian capital just to come here.

Set amidst rolling hills, Tivoli Park is a pleasant mixture of lawns (picnics encouraged: something of a shock in this part of the world), pastures, wooded areas and fun adventure playgrounds for the kids (who will love the mini-golf best of all). The best way to enjoy the park is by bike, and bicycles are available for rent from various points throughout the park during the summer. You will need to leave ID as a guarantee you will bring the bike back.

As well as its reputation as the top nature spot in the area, Tivoli Park also houses a number of cultural sights including the International Centre of Graphic Arts in the glorious 17th century Tivolski Grad (Tivoli Mansion), the Museum of Modern History and, in the park’s far southwestern reaches, in an area designated as a nature reserve, the city’s half-decent zoo. Also look out for the monument to 62 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Primoz Trubar at the entrance to the park. Truboz was an early force in Slovene literature and the creation of a Slovene national identity.QA/B-2.

River Cruises Barka Ljubljanica No trip to Ljubljana is complete without taking a waterbased tour, and the handmade wooden boat operated by the young team at Laker Craft is easily the most attractive of all the crafts plying the waters of the Ljubljanica. Even for those who live here, it’s like viewing the city for the first time, drawing ones attention to details that are invisible from solid ground. A standard ride lasts just under an hour, and offers views of most of the old town’s major sights from a unique vantage point, and private trips can also be arranged, offering a unique way to impress business clients or have an unforgettable romantic evening. The 10m flat-bottomed vessel is constructed of solid larch and oak wood, and can host up to 50 people at a time, while catering can also be arranged through a number of local restaurants. Moored just next to Novi Trg along the redeveloped Breg waterfront, it’s just a few minutes’ walk from parking garage at Kongresni Trg.QBreg 2, tel. +386 (0)41 386 945, info@ barka-ljubljanica.si, www.barka-ljubljanica.si. Operates 11:00-20:00 from May-Oct and 15:00-21:00 from Nov-Jan. Rides €8 per person, children under 12 free.

Private hire from €120.

Squares Mestni Trg (Town Square) The centre of medieval Ljubljana, the town’s main square was damaged in the 1511 earthquake and subsequently rebuilt in Baroque style. The square houses the Town Hall, City Art Museum, the decorated 16th century Lichtenberg house and the Souvan house with its Empire façade.QD3/4.

Prešernov Trg (Prešeren Square) Formally a meeting place for several roads in front of one of the old entrance gates to the city, and a public square since Ljubljana’s original defensive walls were torn down in the middle of the 19th century, this is one of the city’s most important landmarks. Named after Slovenia’s national poet France Prešeren (German, Franz Prescheren, 18001849), it’s both a popular meeting place (notably under the large statue of the man after whom the square is named) and a site for concerts and events during the summer.

The charming little public space is ringed by a number of interesting sights including the magnificent Art Nouveau façade of the Urbanc House, an extraordinary piece of early 20th-century flamboyance and site of the soon to be reopened Centromerkur department store.QD-3.

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REGULAR LJUBLJANA CITY TOUR The regular tour of Ljubljana, available daily, takes you on a walk through the historical city centre, giving you an opportunity to see its major sights.

The tour begins in front of the Town Hall and continues through the historical city centre, well known for its unique architectural appearance, which is the result of the legacy of the Baroque and Art Nouveau periods and, most notably, the work of the famous 20th century architect Jože Plečnik. You can choose between three versions of the tour, two ending at Ljubljana Caste and one with a tourist boat cruise along the river Ljubljanica.

Tour versions and schedule:

Guided city walk and funicular ride to Ljubljana Castle • 1 October – 31 March: daily at 11:00 • 1 April – 30 September: daily at 10:00 Guided city walk and tourist boat cruise along the Ljubljanica • 1 April – 30 September: daily at 14:00 Guided city walk and tourist road train ride to Ljubljana Castle • 1 April – 30 September: daily at 17:00

Duration: Two hours.

Departure point: The square in front of the Town Hall.

Language options: Slovenian, English.

Prices

• €10.00 for adults • €5.00 for children between four and 12 years old • Free for children under four years old

Additional information and general terms and conditions:

€1 discount is available on tour tickets purchased at the Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre (Adamič-Lundrovo nabrežje 2).

Guided city walks ending at Ljubljana Castle

• The tour price includes a return funicular or tourist road train ticket.

• In the summertime, you can join a guided tour of Ljubljana Castle after your city walk is over. Your city walk ticket entitles you to buy the castle tour ticket at a discount price of €6.00 (rather than the regular price of €8.00).

• In the event of bad weather conditions, the tourist road train ride will be cancelled and the tour will end with a funicular ride to Ljubljana Castle instead.

• Guided city walk ending with a boat cruise along the Ljubljanica • In the event of adverse river conditions, the boat cruise will be cancelled and the tour will end with a funicular ride to Ljubljana Castle instead.

Tour/Excursion booking enquiry:

Booking on www.visitljubljana.com or at TIC. Your enquiry will be forwarded to a tourist information centre, who will check the availability of your preferred dates and times and get back to you within 48 hours at the latest.

Sightseeing

Sightseeing Lipica Stud Farm

Truly stunning, you are never far from the Alps in Slovenia

Tours The Tourist Information Centre should be your first stop if you’re interested in any kind of city tour. They offer a variety of scheduled tours for individuals, and can arrange even more for groups with a bit of advanced notice. Prices and itineraries are also clearly listed on their site, so you’ll know exactly what you’re getting. Almost every hotel in the city offers guided tours of one sort or another as well. Some are good, others just a way of making money. You should be able to spot the scams without too much difficulty.

Slocally.com In much the same way that the Slow Food movement revolutionised the way people view the experience of enjoying a good meal, the cleverly named Slocally.com aims to promote a wider movement of Slow Tourism in Slovenia, and offers dozens of unique activities for visitors to participate in - from tasting locally produced foods and wines on family-run farms to experiencing traditional local events and fairs to taking part in a diverse variety of hands-on workshops. We’re not exaggerating when we say that there’s likely no better or more convenient way to get to know Slovenia. Detailed descriptions and clearly indicated prices can be found on the very informative website, and the passionate creator of the project, Vesna Velišček, is always happy to answer any questions you may have.QFrankopanska 29, tel. +386 (0)41 432 488, booking@slocally.com, www.slocally.com.

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Time Machine At The Castle While it may be an often-claimed slogan, the Time Machine guided tour at Ljubljana Castle truly is a tour like no other. Follow the history of one of the biggest symbols of Ljubljana through six of its most important periods, from Roman Emona through to the 20th century. You are guided along each step by a different costumed character from each time, creating a unique atmosphere that we can’t help but enjoy. Starting from the information point at the castle, the tour runs four times a day from June to September.Qtel. +386 (0)1 232 99 94, virtualni-grad@ ljubljanskigrad.si, www.ljubljanskigrad.si. Jan - Mar, Nov - Sun 11:00, 15:00, Apr - May, Oct, Dec - Sat and Sun 11:00, 15:00, Jun - Sept - Daily 11:00, 13:00, 17:00. 19:00.

Admission: €10 (€12 with funicular), children (aged 7 18) 50% discount.

Lipica Stud Farm has flourished tremendously since its conception over 400 years ago. Set amongst beautiful natural surroundings,it is not only home to more than 350 Lipizzaner horses, but also very rich in history. Since its foundation by the Habsburg Archduke Charles II in 1580, Lipica has become one of the most prominent attractions Slovenia has to offer.

One of the many reasons this stud farm stands so proudly today is the origin of the Lipizzaner. These capable and distinguished horses have taken a major part in the development of this amazing establishment since the very beginning, and are reputed for having an eagerness to learn. Best of all they have been particularly well-trained in the art of riding, which has enabled a large assortment of activities and events to occur frequently, making now more than a fine time to pay a visit.

To put it simply, Lipikum museum excels in portraying the amazing Lipizzaner through modern presentations, with both interactive displays and classical exhibits. It will leave you knowing more than you could hope to, and all through a pleasant and amusing experience for both adults and children. The Stud Farm also offers a nice and informative tour (available in English, Italian, German, Croatian, French and Slovene), where friendly guides will see that you are well informed about Lipica’s most beloved beast, and extensive history how of how it came to be.

For centuries Lipizzaners have incorporated carriage drawing into their area of expertise. Now, you can take a carriage ride through Lipica’s colourful and peaceful atmosphere of groomed grounds, with your own friendly carriage driver.

Many more sights online at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

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To get a little more active, Lipica Stud Farm hosts a variety of invigorating horse riding programmes, as well as lessons for more advanced riders. If you ever imagined yourself as a brave knight of old then you just might want to seize the days and give it a try! On a side-note, they also offer pony riding lessons for kids between three and seven years old, where, for a very reasonable price, the little one will learn the basics of riding horses, and more importantly, how to treat them.

At the end of a tiring and eventful day, retreat to the comfort of your accommodation, where you can enjoy various delicacies of the Karst, and relay in the peace of the secluded location, resting up for the next day’s learning, riding, show or indeed onward journey. By virtue of the ample facilities in the main centre, Lipica in as excellent destination either for all manner of conferences, or to get married.

And last but not least, it would be folly not to mention the classical riding school! The pride of the Lipica Stud Farm the cream of the crop stallions training their elegant trots, turns and other skills. The training sessions are open to spectators and of course there is a busy programme of equestrian events and shows to be considered when planning your visit. Be sure to check the website for the full schedule.

Event or not, anyone with even a passing interest in the long faced beauties should not leave Slovenia without paying Lipica a visit!QLipica 5, Sežana, tel. +386 (0)5 739 1580, fax +386 (0)5 739 1730, info@lipica.org, www.lipica.org.

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Shopping

Shopping Mandarina Duck Mandarina Duck is an innovative designer brand that offers simple, unique and creative solutions for people who are ambitious, curious, positive and always up-to-date on the latest trends. The brand’s range includes handbags, business bags, wallets and luggage.veQC/D-3, Wolfova 1, tel. +386 (0) 1 251 10 10, www.bags.si. Open 09:30 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Marina Yachting Ideally located on Novi Trg in Ljubljana’s old town, Marina Yachting brings the fashions of the sea to the city. Using lightweight materials allowing for maximum comfort, the traditions of the sailors are respected at every turn as modern twists are developed creating clothes to be worn for every occasion. Nothing is rushed, and the care taken over each garment is obvious to all. The brand is constantly evolving, producing fashionable and classy attire with ease.QC-4, Novi Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)1 425 1107, marina. yachting@amis.net, www.liliinroza.si. Open 09:00 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Department Stores Nama Set in the heart of the city centre, just opposite the central post office, this modern department store offers several floors of clothing for men and women, with brands ranging from sporty to trendy to sophisticated. A large selection of household items can be found on the fourth floor and a supermarket stocked with an appetising variety of ready meals, salads, produce and other quick eats is in the basement, while the ground floor is where you will find cosmetics and accessories.QC-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. +386 (0)1 425 83 00, info@nama.si, www.nama.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Fashion Betty Barclay With a newly opened store on Ciril Metodov Trg, Betty Barclay continue to provide contemporary clothes for the women of the modern world, with their internationally respected brand adding that extra gravitas desired. A collection for summer 2014 focuses on elegance and sophistication, all the while keeping a close eye on the latest trends.

Betty Barclay is for those who want a genuine enjoyment of fashion of the most current designQCiril Metodov Trg 2, tel. +386 (01) 439 37 90, tkan.mackova@siol.net, www.bettybarclay.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. 66 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Forma F+ One of Ljubljana’s largest fashion and sporting good megastores, in addition to the individual approach and personal advice from resident professional athletes, Forma F+ also offers an exclusive range of top brands, including Quiksilver, Roxy, Rossignol, SuperDry, Columbia and Nike.

It’s located on three floors of the Crystal Palace building in BTC City, and there’s also a Forma F+ Outlet in Hala 11, where items from last season can be bought with a significant discount.QM-2, Ameriška 8, BTC City, tel. +386 (0)5 994 61 80/+386 (0)1 300 08 26, info@fplus.si, www. fplus.si. Open 09:00-20:00. Closed Sun and holidays.

Krznarstvo Eber This small boutique, located just metres from Prešeren square, has been trading in the finest furs for nearly 100 years. Fourth generation Milena Eber carries on the family tradition, lovingly repairing fur coats as well as producing one of a kind pieces using sustainably-sourced pelts of every ilk. ​Krzanstvo Eber sell everything from gifts and home wares to accessories and apparel such as stunning fur coats - a big trend this season. Whilst we’re no fur experts, Krzanstvo Eber’s century-long history and large number of Russian customers certainly vouch for the quality of their products.QWolfova 6, tel. +386 (0)1 421 57 00, info@krznarstvo-eber.com, www.krznarstvo-eber. com. Open 09:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-12:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sun. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Petit Bateau Petit Bateau is a century-old tradition based on the things that should be a part of everyday life: Youthful playfulness, sincere happiness and endless comfort. Since 1893 the brand has been an indispensable companion for children and adults for whom quality and comfort are important.QD-4, Stari Trg 30, tel. +386 (0)5 993 49 89, petit-bateau@siol.net, www.liliinroza.si. Open 09:00 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Quiksilver The Ljubljana branch of the well-known international sporting apparel shop, stocks a variety of fashionable casual and sportswear for both men and women, whether your destination is the beach, the ski slopes or the mountains.QD-4, Mestni Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 251 10 73/+386 (0)51 222 069, boardridersclub.lj@gmail. com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

Viktor Barlič This family-run enterprise has been producing highquality handmade leather goods since first opening its doors on Mestni Trg back in 1954. Nowadays the third generation of the Barlič family specialises in the design and creation of original handbags and other leather accessories, combining traditional handmade methods with modern fashion trends. No two bags are exactly alike and the selection changes weekly, making this is the perfect shop for those who take pride in being unique. A carefully chosen range of imported women’s footwear is also available. The shop is a winner of the prestigious Ljubljana Quality Selection, so you can rest assured that you’ll be in good hands.QD-4, Mestni Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)1 251 2908, info@barlic.si, www.barlic. si. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 15:00. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Second hand/vintage

Moje Tvoje A unique concept shop, Moje Tvoje (or ‘mine is yours’) offers a great selection of reasonably priced vintage and second-hand clothing, as well as some original jewellery created by young Slovene designers. Just for good measure the place also doubles as gallery space for locals artists, with exhibitions changing every month or two. Find it down a small passageway off Mestni Trg not far from Town Hall.QD-4, Mestni Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)40 127 973, mojetvoje-secondhand.si. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

Shoes Cristobal This little shop, tucked away in the city centre is easy to miss, though local fashionista’s flock here for stylish and top-quality shoes and accessories. Cristobal stock a wide range of predominately Italian designer shoes (men’s also available), many of the labels you’ll find nowhere else in Ljubljana - such as the stunning and uber trendy Clox (shoes cum time piece). Also on sale are a range of beautiful Knomo laptop bags and a select range of gorgeous jewellery some of which is designed locally.QC-4, Židovska 5, tel. +386 (0)1 421 01 23, info@cristobal.si, www.cristobal.si.

Open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:30, Sat 10:00-14:00. Closed Sun.

Slovenian Designers Cliché Shop Gallery Ljubljana-based Cliché Jelena Leskovar is one of the most intriguing fashion labels in the so-called ‘new Europe’. The designs are all created using a principle of FQ, or Fashion Intelligence Quotient, which promotes the longevity of forms and compatibility of pieces from new collections with previous ones. Cliché’s shop and gallery on Novi Trg offers both collections from its own brand, as well as complimentary accessories from designers based in Europe, the US and Japan.QC-4, Novi Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)1 42 63 152/+386 (0)31 372 990, info@cliche.si, www. cliche.si. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Food & Drink Mesarstvo Krušič For those looking try a distinctly Slovene culinary staple, the family-run Krušič Butchery is the country’s top provider of horse meat and assorted products. While the thought of October - November 2014

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Shopping

Shopping Gifts & Souvenirs Čokoladnica Cukrček A charming, family-run business with four shops in the city, Čokoladnica Cukrček has been delighting adults and making children happily sick for a decade and a half. Among the many fine examples of chocolate for sale include special Ljubljana dragons in souvenir wooden boxes, fruit covered in chocolate and even chocolate flavoured with salt. In addition to the main location on Mestni Trg, you can find Cukrček in the Nebotičnik passageway, opposite Hotel Union and in Mercator Centre Šiška.QD-3/4, Mestni Trg 11, tel. +386 (0)1 421 04 53, www. cukrcek.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Galerija Rustika Featuring the largest selection of high-quality Slovenian handicraft products in the entire country, Rustika is indeed equal parts gallery and shop. Perusing the collection with the help of a knowledgeable staff member feels a bit like taking a guided tour through all of the many diverse regions and cultures found within Slovenia’s borders. Highlights include traditional beehive panels produced by an award-winning local artisan, world famous Idrijan lace, and various different seasonal specialties. In addition to their beautiful premises just inside the gates of Ljubljana Castle, there’s a second location near Tromostovje Bridge.QD-4, Ljubljanski Grad, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 18, www.galerijarustika.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

eating horse will strike visitors from certain countries as an odd practice, from a nutritional point of view the high protein and low fat meat is much healthier than the more widely consumed alternatives. Using old family recipes, Krušič produces everything from pâtés to dry salami, and of course has a wide selection of fresh raw cuts, all of which come exclusively from Slovenia and have received various quality awards. A second location can be found in the Plečnik Arcade at the central market, and their products can also be purchased at Domača Vas in Kranj.QL-3, Bezenškova 11, tel. +386 (0)1 586 24 37, www.mesarstvo-krusic.si. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Health & Beauty Oliviers&Co With a newly opened boutique store on Ciril Metodov trg, the Oliviers & Co olive oil empire continues to grow.

The company was founded in France almost 20 years ago, and has fully committed to offering the very best that the Mediterranean has to offer, in the shape of the finest olive oils, truffles, spreads, cosmetics and much more, including the most delightful vinegars we’ve ever come across. Delightfully friendly (but not intrusive) shop assistants are on hand to help at all times.QC-2, Slovenska 46, tel. +386 1 232 22 92, info@oliviers-co.si, www.oliviers-co.si. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Oliviers&Co QCiril Metodov trg 20, +386 (0)8 383 78 16, Open 09:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.

68 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Galerija RustikaQD-3, Stritarjeva 9, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 18/+386 (0)31 459 509, www.galerijarustika.si.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Old Town Souvenirs Situated directly between Prešeren Square and Dragon Bridge, you’re guaranteed to pass by this well-stocked souvenir shop on any walking tour of Ljubljana. In addition to the usual assortment of souvenirs, from magnets and shot glasses to chocolate and schnapps (and of course all manner of dragons), they also offer uniquely designed high-quality t-shirts, which conveniently come in their own gift bag. If the weather is nice, you can even grab a beer or soda to drink along the riverside promenade while writing the obligatory postcards.QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 27a, tel. +386 (0)1 620 0851, info@old-town.si. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Trgovina Ika Ika puts the creativity of local Slovene artists and fashion designers in the forefront of its shelves, exhibiting a wonderful selection of products such as paintings, ceramics, jewellery and fashion. You can pick up great souvenirs here as a lot of the products represent the beauty of Ljubljana in artistic forms, or if you’re looking for a unique garment or piece of art, you’ve come to the right place.

QD-3, Ciril-Metodov Trg 13, tel. +386 (0)1 232 17 43, info@trgovina-ika.si, www.trgovina-ika.si. Open 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Home & Design 1001 Dar While we’ve never personally counted, the name Tisoč in En Dar (Slovene for 1001 Things) seems just about right for this chain of home and design shops, which stock everything from pillows and blankets to gardening supplies to sushi rolling set and Thai spices. A family-run company for more than 25 year, each product is carefully selected from top international brands for both its usability and aesthetics, as well as personal taste, many of which can’t be found elsewhere in Slovenia. Visit the original shop in the Plava Laguna underpass, or one of four others, including at Citypark in BTC and Mercator Centre in Šiška in Ljubljana, as well as Europark in Maribor.QM-2, Šmartinska 152g (Citypark), tel. +386 (0)1 541 17 30, www.1001dar.si.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Wine, Spirits & Beer Pivoteka Za Popen’t Za Popen’t may be hidden away in a small courtyard off of Stari Trg, but it’s selection of specialty beers is the largest in the country. At last count some 250 different beers from around the world were weighing down the shelves here, nearly all of which can be explained in detail by the friendly and knowledgeable owner or her staff. For those who don’t know much about beers (like us), don’t worry - simply tell them what kind of flavours you like and they will be able to find a beer for you to try!QD-4, Stari Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1 256 59 16, zapopent@hotmail.com, www.zapopent.si. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Shopping Centres

Fresh meat and meat products made by traditional recipes. www.mesarstvo-krusic.si

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

BTC City The biggest thing of its kind in the country, the positively enormous BTC features not only some 450 shops selling everything you could possibly imagine, but also boasts restaurants galore, bars, a post office, multiplex cinema, indoor go-cart racing, a comedy theatre, billiards, volleyball courts, an enormous water park, conference facilities and its very own business district housing some of the best known local and international companies. There’s free parking for more than 8,500 vehicles too, all just a couple of kilometres out of the centre of the city in the general direction of Maribor.

QM-3, Šmartinska 152, tel. +386 (0)1 585 22 22, info@ btc.si, en.btc-city.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

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NEWEST, HIGHEST AND MOST MODERN HOTEL IN LJUBLJANA

Hotels Hotels Over €170 Grand Hotel Union Business Attached to its sibling Executive hotel and sharing some but not all of the facilities on offer, accommodation comes in a choice of rooms and suites. Shared facilities include a grand total of 21 conference and banqueting rooms, secure parking and the pleasing fact that the best sights and leisure activities in the city are all close at hand. Check out their extensive website for further information.QD-3, Miklošičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 308 1170, business@union-hotels.eu, www. union-hotels.eu. 133 rooms (singles €178-212, doubles €193-227, suites €372-446). PTJHAR6U� FLGKDXCW hhhh

Hotel Listings Policy Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical order within that band. The price band refers to the rack rate for a double room.

Lev Opened in 1964, Lev boasts a pedigree that has managed to entice notable celebrities, such as Agatha Christie, Kirk Douglas, Luciano Pavarotti, Bob Dylan and countless others.

A glistening marble lobby serves as a fine overture to 173 high quality, air-conditioned rooms, ranging from singles to suites. All come complete with amenities every guest looks for, including complementary wireless internet access. Hotel Lev offers also conference services and high-end Mediterranean cuisine, served in the award-winning á la carte Restaurant Pri Levu.QC-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. +386 (0)1 308 7000, lev@union-hotels.eu, www.union-hotels.eu. 173 rooms (singles €200-286, doubles €240-312). PJHA� R6UFGKXW hhhh

Grand Hotel Union Executive In a great location in the heart of the city centre, the Executive offers fine accommodation in a range of tastefully decorated rooms, suites and apartments. Complete with a lovely old world, Art Nouveau ambience, expect an excellent choice of facilities for both business and leisure. Extras include two restaurants, a small bar, airport shuttle service and a decent gift shop. In keeping with its reputation, the hotel also hosts the local bridge club, who meet every Monday at 18:00.QD-3, Miklošičeva Hotels €100-170 fpt_OGLAS_LIYP_60x90_PRESS_NEW-7-2014.pdf 1 16.7.2014 16:12:16 1, tel. +386 (0)1 308 1270, grand@union-hotels.eu, Antiq www.union-hotels.eu. 194 rooms (singles €194-233, A superb location in the heart of the old town with a host doubles €209-248, suites €455-546). PJHA� of rooms to suit all tastes and budgets. Featuring a welR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh coming little lobby with lots of nice feminine touches, the rooms have been given a distinctly boutique hotel feel, with huge wooden beds, patterned carpets, interesting Four Points by Sheraton paintings on the walls and some really smart pieces of furLjubljana Mons niture. Even the small budget economy rooms have been Pot za Brdom 4 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia approached with a tasteful eye, whereas at the other end T +386 1 47 02 700 FOURPOINTS.COM/LJUBLJANAMONS of the spectrum the superiors come with bags of space, lovely chandeliers and magnificent bathrooms. Room 13 on the other hand takes a different, more modernistic approach, with wooden floors and minimalist furniture.

QD-4, Gornji Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 35 60, fax +386 (0)1 421 35 65, info@antiqhotel.eu, www.antiqhotel.eu.

Open 00:00 - 24:00. 16 rooms (singles €85-110, doubles €156-206, extra bed €50). PJAR6IGW hhhh

WHERE YOU WANT TO BE (RENOVATED IN 2014)

Always a great stay

• Free high-speed Wi-Fi throughout the hotel • Selected house beer with Best BrewsTM • Weekly after-work BBQ parties • Great food at the Atrium Restaurant and cozy

atmosphere at The Bar

©2011–2012 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Four Points and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

70 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Austria Trend Near the ring road 2km north of the city centre, this vast business class hotel provides high quality rooms in four different categories, plus a range of other excellent services and facilities including a wellness centre, conference rooms, restaurants, a fine cocktail bar and a fun oyster and sushi bar. Popular for both relaxing business stays as well as a variety of different functions, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better hotel of this type in the city.QL-2, Dunajska 154, tel. +386 (0)15 88 25 00, fax +386 (0)15 88 25 99, ljubljana@ austria-trend.at, www.austria-trend.at/lju. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 214 rooms (singles €100-125, doubles €140-220, suites €130-210, apartments €225).

POHA6UFGKDXW ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

HIGHLIGHTS OF PLAZA HOTEL LJUBLJANA 236 modern, comfortable and spacious rooms Free Wi-Fi and tness Superb cuisine and a large selection of wines Free admitance into Atlantis Water Park (swimming pools) Great location and accessibility Parking space on the hotel parking site and in garage for only 8 EUR per day Special prices for transfer to the City Centre (5 EUR per car) and to the airport (25 EUR per car) Immediate proximity to shopping centres and entertainment areas

Hotels

Hotels G Design The exceedingly modern G Design may be one of Ljubljana’s newest hotels, but it also boasts over two hundred years of tradition, as the still functioning (and beautifully restored) Gostilna Gorjanc restaurant has been serving travellers at the same location since the end of the 18th century. The large well-furnished rooms feature soft lighting and super comfortable beds, with panoramic views of Ljubljana castle in the distance. Well-equipped conference facilities and meeting rooms are available, and for a real treat you can dine ‘in bed’ at the unique G Super Club. The hotel is conveniently situated just off the Brezovica exit on the motorway, at the edge of the forest just a short drive south of the city centre.QH-5, Tržaška 330, tel. +386 (0)1 200 91 00, fax +386 (0)1 200 91 30, info@gdesignhotel.si, www.gdesignhotel.si. 22 rooms (singles €85-115, doubles €120-150, suites €220-250).

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Central The classic three-star hotel experience, the Central is the little brother of the three Union hotels in the city. Geared up exceptionally well for the tourist market, the reception is crammed with the latest useful information about the city and surrounding region. There’s a popular on-site bar and café, and the rooms feature everything you need for a good value stay right in the heart of the city centre. Excellent value accommodation indeed.QD-2, Miklošičeva 9, tel. +386 (0)1 308 4300, central@union-hotels.eu, www. union-hotels.eu. 74 rooms (singles €90-167, doubles €100-197, suites €286-343). PJHAR6UF� GKDXCW hhh Four Points by Sheraton Ljubljana Mons Mons is style personified, with an instant impression made on arrival by the elegant reception and bar area. Following a mantra based on honest, uncomplicated comfort and offering more than just an upmarket sleeping option, weekly BBQs throughout summer present a fusion of excellent Balkan and American food, all you can eat no less, which we’re always in favour of. Mons is a part of the Starwood Preferred Guest program, the best (officially) loyalty program of its kind. A free shuttle service to the centre of Ljubljana and back is also available.QI4, Pot Za Brdom 4, tel. +386 (0)1 470 27 00, fax +386 (0)1 470 27 08, info@fourpointsljubljana.com, www. fourpointsljubljanamons.com. 114 rooms (€109 - 129).

PTHAR6FLGKDXW hhhh 72 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Ljubljana Resort Just a few kilometres out of the centre, Ljubljana Resort offers an inspiring oasis for the entire family with accommodations in the form of hotel rooms (with breakfast), campers, and space to set up your own tents. There are also two large restaurants; the Laguna swimming facility with pools and hot tubs; and quite a few indoor and outdoor sports facilities. In the evenings, the resort regularly holds concerts and other night time entertainment. The staff is small but exceedingly friendly and is available 24 hours a day to make sure that you enjoy every minute of your stay.QL-

Garni hotel azur

This small welcoming hotel takes a personal approach to guests’ needs and accommodating their desires.

Ideally situated near both the city centre and the motorway, it is also within walking distance of the city’s largest green space, Tivoli Park. Rooms are individually decorated, and come with all the modern amenities standard in larger hotels. They also offer family rooms with extra space for little ones and small kitchens, and an on-site shop sells regional gourmet products. Perhaps best of all the rooms are located next to a great restaurant of the same name.QJ-4, Sattnerjeva 2, tel. +386 (0)59 333 600/+386 (0)40 636 205, fax +386 (0)59 333 608, azur.ghbooking@gmail.com, www. garnihotelazur.si. 7 rooms. PTAR6LW hhh ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

For special offer - 12% discount send us your request on e-mail: info@birokrathotel.si Please include in e-mail offer code INYOURPOCKET. Valid only for direct reservations via e-mail: info@birokrathotel.si.

www.birokrathotel.si | info@birokrathotel.si | +386 1 5300 212 | Dunajska 191 - Ljubljana - Slovenia

1, Dunajska 270, tel. +386 (0)1 568 39 13, fax +386 (0)1 568 39 12, ljubljana.resort@gpl.si, www.ljubljanaresort. si. 62 rooms (singles €60-115, doubles €70-130, triples €99-160, family €135-200). PTHAULEG� BKXCSW

ity pool, yoga studio and glorious views of Ljubljana’s medieval old town.QD-4, Krojaška 6-8, tel. +386 (0)1 200 9000, fax +386 (0)1 200 9001, info@vanderhotel.com, vanderhotel.com. Singles from €120, doubles from €165. PJHAKCW hhhh

Plaza Hotel Ljubljana Reaching nearly 60m into the sky, the Plaza Hotel is one of the tallest - and dare we say most elegant - buildings in Slovenia. It boasts a total of 236 spacious luxuriouslyappointed rooms, a first-rate restaurant and café, a 400m2 conference room on the 15th floor, and a rooftop lounge bar with cocktails that are almost as good as the view. Even if you live in Ljubljana you may want to consider booking a room for the night just to experience it all for yourself we already have!QM-3, Bratislava 8, tel. +386 (0)1 243 00 00, info@plazahotel.si, www.plazahotel.si. 236 rooms.

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Hotels €70-100 Alo Rooms Vrbinc B&B A modern bed and breakfast with that extra touch of comfort, the Vrbinc is more personal than any chain hotel, while retaining a sense of privacy. The corridors are beautifully decorated with murals of Slovenia, while the bright fresh rooms sleep up to five, and include a welcome pack with wine and other treats. Breakfast is especially impressive,

Vander Urbani Resort Down a narrow cobbled alleyway connecting Mestni Trg with the riverside, an urban oasis has been constructed inside of four centuries-old town houses. Extensively renovated by Sadar Vuga architects in the most contemporary of styles and a member of Design Hotels, the resort (which is not an inaccurate term) is comprised of a restaurant and lounge bar on the ground floor, with exquisite and uniquely-designed guest rooms located on the floors above. However, perhaps the most impressive single feature is the rooftop terrace, which boasts an infinfacebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

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Hotels

Hotels modern amenities such as air-con, LCD TVs and free wireless internet. Parking is also available for guests.QF-2, Njegoševa 6k, tel. +386 (0)1 200 90 90, info@hotel-meksiko.si, www. hotel-meksiko.si. Single rooms from €54, doubles from €78. PZJALKW

Hotels Under €70 Pension Jelen Located on the old road leading to Medvode and onwards to Austria (Celovška Cesta is Slovene for Villach Road), Jelen has been hosting travellers since the late-19th century, and is also a popular restaurant and pizzeria. Rooms are modernly equipped and the location offers easy access to Ljubljana’s sights as well as airport, and for those without their own transport, Jelen can be conveniently reached by three different bus lines from the city centre (1, 8 and 25).

QCelovška 462, tel. +386 (0)1 516 15 45, info@pensionjelen.eu, www.pension-jelen.eu. 16 rooms from €38.

Apartments

made to order and served at your table in the restaurant.​ Located just off the motorway near the Rudnik shopping centre, Vrbinc is good for those with their own transport, and cars, bikes and scooters can also be rented onsite.QL6, Peruzzijeva 105, tel. +386 (0)8 205 82 50/+386 (0)40 62 18 62, info@alo-hotel.si, www.alo-accommodationljubljana.si. Singles €49-69, doubles €59-79, triples €79-99, 4-person €99-129, 5-person €125-149.

Hotel Birokrat Not too far from Stožice Sports Park, Birokrat primarily caters to business travellers but is just as good an option for tourists as well. You’ll struggle to find more modern, spacious rooms in the entire city, and guests also get free entry to the Laguna Swimming Pools, which is as big a selling point as we’ve ever heard. With an on-site conference room for the more functional visitors, Birokrat really covers both sides of the visiting coin.QDunajska cesta 91, tel. +386 (0)1 530 02 12, rezervacije@birokrathotel.si, www.birokrathotel.si.

Meksiko Situated within the University Medical Center, Hotel Meksiko is the most convenient accommodation option for both outpatients travelling from afar and visiting relatives, and is also a fine choice for business travellers and ordinary tourists, as it’s position on Ljubljana’s inner-ring road provides easy access to the rest of the city by car, as well as a short walking distance to the eastern edges of the old town and main tourist attractions.

The hotel’s 50 rooms are modernly equipped, and all feature 74 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Kollmann Apartments These beautifully renovated luxury apartments and rooms right in the centre of the old town are truly a sight to behold. The highlight of the smaller unit is the king-sized waterbed located in a loft bedroom separated from the living room below, while the larger apartment is absolutely huge, with two bedrooms, a full bathtub and a washing machine. Both apartments and one of the rooms have fully-equipped kitchenettes, while the larger of the apartments and both rooms also have great views of the Ljubljanica and old town below. All units feature brand new LCD TVs and free internet,QD-4, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 27, tel. +386 (0)51 268 288, info@ljubljana-apartments.eu, www.ljubljana-apartments.eu. Apartment 1 (2-3 people) €93, Apartment 2 (6-8) €176, ensuite rooms (2-4) €78-85. PTJA6GXW MartaStudio These three self-contained studios and one large 106m² apartment are reasonably priced alternatives to booking a hotel. All fitted with modern facilities, including kitchenettes, the family-run accommodation is just a short

10-minute walk from the city centre, or an even shorter bus ride from the stop just a few metres away (lines 1 and 6). A supermarket, restaurants and banks are all nearby, and airport pick-up can be arranged for little more than the cost of a bus. The entrance is in the same building as the shop Mavrica, look for the house in the courtyard with the red façade.QJ-4, Tržaška 24, tel. +386 (0)5 9020 452/+386 (0)41 874 400, fax +386 (0)5 9060 012, info@ martastudio.eu, www.martastudio.eu. (3 studios €60, 1 apartment €137). TA6L Old Town Rooms and Apartments These newly opened rooms and apartments in a renovated house along the Ljubljanica allow guests to both enjoy an authentic old town experience, while also having the comfort of modern accommodation - all just steps from Prešeren Square, Dragon Bridge and all the other sights in Ljubljana’s medieval centre. All units are bright and airy with wooden furnishings, manually controlled air conditioning, and modern necessities such as large flat screen TVs and wireless internet. Set off Petkovškovo nabrežje through a common courtyard, those looking for peace in the very centre need look no further.QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 27a, tel. +386 (0)1 620 0851, info@old-town.si, www.old-town. si. Rooms from €53, apartments from €83. PJAW

Hostels AdHoc Hostel Despite the name, budget conscious travellers can rest assured that every aspect of this newly opened hostel has been thoroughly planned and executed - including all the small touches that backpackers are sure to appreciate, such as ample common space, plenty of showers and shelves for the top bunks. However, it’s the unbeatable location in the heart of the old town just below the castle and only steps from all the major sites (and popular nightlife venues) that makes AdHoc a winner. A total of 92-beds are spread across several floors and a combination of dorms and private rooms.QCankarjevo Nabrežje 27, tel. +386 (0)51 268 288, info@adhoc-hostel. com, www.adhoc-hostel.com. 8-bed dorm €16-20, private quadruple €17-23/person, private double €19-27/person.

PJGW

Comfort in the heart of Ljubljana with Old Town Rooms and Apartments

Around Ljubljana Tržaška 24, 1000 Ljubljana Apartment (6 - 8 people) available for long-term accommodation, from €80-100/per day.

Phone/Fax: +386 (0)5 9020 452 +386 (0)41 874 400 fax:+386 (0)5 9060 012 info@martastudio.eu

www.martastudio.eu

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Pri Cesarju This charming little guesthouse offers cosy accommodation in the heart of medieval Kamnik, making it a great base for hikers in the summer and skiers in the winter, or those who’d like to enjoy a relaxing stay outside of the capital in any season. The large rooms come in several different sizes, all of which boast modern furnishings, refrigerators, LCD televisions and lots of wood from floor to ceiling. Two of the rooms also have balconies with views towards the majestic Kamnik-Savinja Alps.QTunjiška 1, Kamnik, tel. +386 (0)41 629 846, info@cesarski-dvor.si, www.pricesarju.si. 11 rooms (singles €36, doubles €48-58, family rooms €7492). Breakfast €4 per person. PTJLW facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

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Embassies & Expats With a population of approximately 280,000 inhabitants, Ljubljana is somewhat smaller than Coventry, England or Białystok, Poland and just larger than Brașov, Romania or Münster, Germany - closer in size to a village than a metropolis. However, with all due respect to these other undoubtedly fine cities, Ljubljana boasts a cosmopolitan feel well beyond what the simple numbers would imply, thanks to factors including its status as an EU capital, its position at one of the continent’s main geographical and historical crossroads, strong connections with the former Yugoslav states, a long tradition of culture and the arts, its quick establishment of a (more or less) market-oriented economy after independence, its popularity as a destination for foreign students, and its relatively high quality of life, especially for families and nature-lovers. All of this adds up to a thriving expat community, which we’ve tried to feature just a bit of on the following pages.

Expat Organisations International Club of Slovenia A fun club for (mostly professional) expats living in Slovenia. The organisation is open to anyone who wants to meet new people and all their events are advertised on their website, and most are free to attend, including the popular Friday Night Drinks.QICS@sloveniawelcomes.com, www. sloveniawelcomes.com/expats.

InterNations InterNations is the world’s number one online expat community, which offers a platform to easily meet other expats in Ljubljana. In addition to a lively online community, members regularly get together at events or take part in planning trips together.Qwww. internations.org.

real estate

Expat Chat with Pilar Santana Nationality: Dominican – Italian Age: 48 How long have you lived in Ljubljana? 4 months What do you do? I’m a restaurant manager and work all day long. As soon as I have time I escape to Bled.

STOJA TRADE d.o.o.,

How’s your Slovene? I’ve learnt 15 words so far, my first one was račun/gotovina.

Dolenjska cesta 242C, SI-1000 Ljubljana T: +386 1 2800 860, F: +386 1 2800 861 E: info@stoja-trade.si

What do you like most about Ljubljana? Quiet life… the river… so many young people!

What do you like least about Ljubljana? Too many rules! In Italy there is more flexibility. The weather has been crazy this summer too.

Favourite restaurant? Casa Mulata Favourite café? Zvezda

APARTMENTS I HOUSES I BUSINESS PREMISES I LAND

FOR RENT I FOR SALE I WE RENT I WE BUY

Favourite bar/club/pub? Cacao Favourite Slovenian gifts for friends/family back home? Cakes from Zvezda!

Favourite day trip from Ljubljana? Bled!

Slovenian International Ladies Association The Slovenian International Ladies Association, or SILA, is a dynamic organisation of women from nearly 40 countries currently or permanently living in Slovenia.

Founded in 1993 as a non-profit, SILA dedicated to social, cultural and educational exchange among its members.

Its main event of the year, is the annual charity bazaar held each winter.Qwww.sila.si.

Stoja Real Estate Agency is the most popular real estate agency in Ljubljana for foreigners, diplomats and local buisness people.

Stoja has been operating in Slovenia since 1996, and specialises in both residential and commercial rental properties in the Slovene capital. We have a huge selection of houses, apartments and business premises. Our agents will happily assist customers with all aspects of the rental process, as well as buying and selling property around the country.

International Schools Stoja Real Estate Agency The most popular real estate agency in Ljubljana for foreigners, diplomats and local buisness people, Stoja has been operating in Slovenia since 1996, and specialises in both residential and commercial rental properties in the Slovene capital. They have a huge selection of houses, apartments and business premises, and will happily assist customers with all aspects of the rental process, as well as buying and selling property around the country.QDolenjska 242c, tel. +386 (0)1 28 00 860/+386 (0)41 652 141, fax +386 (0) 1 28 00 861, info@stoja-trade.si, www.rent-a-realestate.com. www.rent-a-realestate.com, www.dcs.si.

76 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

British International School of Ljubljana The British International School of Ljubljana opened its doors in September 2008. Based in the Bežigrad area, to the north of the city centre, the school has a current enrolment of around 170 children aged 3 to 18. The Pre-School and Primary Section use the International Primary Curriculum (IPC) and the Secondary Section prepares both Slovenian and foreign students for University of Cambridge ESOL and IGCSE exams, with A-Level following later.QK-2, Podmilščakova 24, tel. +386 (0)40 486 548, enquiries@ britishschool.si, www.britishschool.si.

QSI International School of Ljubljana QI-4/5, Dolgi Most 6a, tel. +386 (0)1 244 17 50, ljubljana@ qsi.org, www.qsi.org. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

www.stoja-trade.si I www.rent-a-realestate.com I www.dcs.si

Embassies & Expats Embassies & Consulates All embassies and consulates in Ljubljana. The opening times and the second listed telephone number is of the consular departments.

Austria QB-3, Prešernova 23, tel. +386 (0)1479 07 00, fax +386 (0)1252 17 17, laibach-ob@bmaa.gv.at, www. bmaa.gv.at./laibach. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 8:00 12:00, Fri 8:00 - 10:00. Closed Sat, Sun. China QL-3, Koblarjeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1420 28 55, fax +386 (0)1282 21 99, kitajsko.veleposlanistvo@siol.net.

Open 08:00 - 11:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. France QC-5, Barjanska 1, tel. +386 (0)1479 04 00, fax +386 (0)1425 04 10, contact@ambafrance-si.org, www. ambafrance-si.org. Open 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sat, Sun. GermanyQB-3, Prešernova 27, tel. +386 (0)1 479 03 00, fax +386 (0)1 425 08 99, germanembassy-slovenia@ siol.net, www.laibach.diplo.de. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 09:00 - 12:00, Fri 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Italy QB-4, Snežniška 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 21 94, fax +386 (0)1 425 33 02, archivio.lubiana@esteri.it. Open 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Russia QA-2, Tomšičeva 9, tel. +386 (0)1425 68 75, fax +386 (0)1425 68 78, ambrus.slo@siol.net, www. veleposlanistvorusije.mid.ru/. Open 08:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. UK QB-3, Trg Republike 3/ 4, tel. +386 (0)1 200 39 10, fax +386 (0)1 425 01 74, info@british-embassy.si, ukinslovenia.fco.gov.uk. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. USA QB-3, Prešernova 31, tel. +386 (0)1200 55 00, fax +386 (0)1200 55 55, usembassyljubljana@state.gov, slovenia.usembassy.gov. There is no opening hours, but you have to announce.

Useful Websites The following are a list of useful Slovene websites that we personally use on a regular basis. Not all of them are in English, but that’s not something Google Translate can’t help with.

Real Estate www.nepremicnine.net Online Marketplace www.bolha.com Electronics www.mimovrste.com Ride Sharing www.prevoz.org Live Bus Schedule bus.talktrack.com English Language News www.sloveniatimes.com Local Foodie Hub www.ljubljananjam.si Events Calendar www.napovednik.com Cultural Info Centre www.kic-ljubljana.si GLBT Sports & Recreation www.outinslovenija.com Event Tickets www.eventim.si 78 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Postojna among other amenities, while a full wellness and medical treatment centre rounds out the offer. All in all, it’s a great place for cyclists, campers and other budget travellers to break their journeys on the way to or from the coast.

QRazdrto 19, tel. +386 (0)41 684 988/+386 (0)5 75 77 200, mirjam.pavlin@mirjam.si, www.mirjam.si. Singles €35, doubles €44, dorms €12, campground €11/two persons (tent or camper). T6FLEKDCW

Diplomatic Corporate Services D iplomatic C orporate Services Slovenia Operated

by Stoja Real Estate, as the name suggests Diplomatic Corporate Services is a web portal and associated service agency that aims to provide foreigners (primarily from the diplomatic and business community) living and travelling in Ljubljana and elsewhere in Slovenia with all the relevant information they could possibly need - from hotel and restaurant recommendations to real estate services and medical care. Their dedicated multi-lingual team is only a phone call or email away, while their website also provides a wealth of information.QDolenjska 244c, tel. +386 (0)1 2800 860, info@dcs.si, www.dcs.si. www.dcs.si.

Language courses Cene Štupar This long-running public institution operates under the municipality of Ljubljana, and is one of the leading providers of Slovene language courses in the country.

New classes begin regularly, and include an accompanying programme of workshops, excursions and other cultural activities, all of which are led by young enthusiastic instructors and come at very reasonable prices.QL-3, Linhartova 13, tel. +386 (0)1 234 44 00/+386 (0)1 234 44 21, fax +386 (0)1 234 44 28, info@cene-stupar.si, www.cene-stupar.si.

Centre for Slovene as a Foreign Language Courses in the Slovene language are available throughout the year, including free 180-hour courses for foreign nationals holding valid residency permits (depending on availability).QC/D-4, 12 Kongresni Trg, tel. +386 (0)1 241 86 77/+386 (0)1 241 86 48, center-slo@ ff.uni-lj.si, www.centerslo.net.

Veris Veris is both one of Ljubljana’s top translation and interpretation companies, and most professionally-run language schools. In addition to offering Slovene language courses for foreigners of all levels, they also teach English, Arabic, Chinese, Spanish, Russian and some half dozen other languages. Their modern facilities are located in the Stegne business park in the northwest of city.QJ-1, Stegne 7, tel. +386 (0)1 5000 579, info@veris.si, www.veris.si.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

The Proteus Restaurant

With less than 10,000 inhabitants Postojna is barely one of the 20 largest towns in Slovenia, but arguably none are more well-known throughout that world (including the capital Ljubljana) than this relatively nondescript settlement in the southwest of the country that wasn’t even officially recognise until 1909. The reason of course it not so much the town itself, but the amazing network of karst caves that lie just below its surface. First opened to the public in 1819, the world-famous Postojna Cave is said to have attracted more than 35 million visitors over the past two centuries, with one of its first being AustroHungarian Emperor Francis I the year before it opened.

If this were not enough, Postojna is also blessed with another popular sight in its immediate vicinity, the magnificent Predjama Castle located some 11km to the northwest of the town centre. Built in the 13th century and partially situated under enormous natural stone arch, it’s not only a fine castle in its own right, but also sits atop another tourist cave and is also associated with several fascinating legends.While the vast majority of visitors come to Postojna just to see one or both of its star attractions, with three proper hotels and many other guesthouses and private accommodation options located in and around the town, it makes a good base for exploring parts of central Slovenia as well as the Karst region that extends towards the Adriatic Sea and Italy - Trieste actually being closer to Postojna than Ljubljana (35km and 54km away respectively).

Where to stay Mirjam Penzion, Camp & Wellness Set just underneath one of Slovenia’s most unique natural sights, the white limestone cliffs at the southern edge of the Nanos plateau, Mirjam is mini resort with budget accommodation in both standard guest rooms and a shared hostel-style dormitories, as well as a small campground with hookups for motorhomes, shower facilities and plenty of space for pitching a tent. The family-run place also includes billiards, a football pitch and a swimming pool facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Proteus Rooms and Apartments In heart of Postojna, only 500m from the entrance to the world famous Postojna Cave, you can find this restaurant named for the underground world’s most famous resident, the Proteus Anguinus, or so-called Human Fish. For those staying in town overnight, accommodation facilities have recently been added above the restaurant. All rooms and apartments are modernly and well-furnished, and the latter also include a kitchen.QTitov trg 1, tel. +386 (0)8 161 03 00/+386 (0)40 45 74 83, info@postojnska-jama.eu, www. postojnska-jama.eu. 13 rooms and 2 apartments.

Where to eat Avio Pub Found just off the runway at Postojna’s small recreational airport, there’s a large garden out back where diners can watch the planes take off and land - many of which are taking visitors on panoramic flights. Despite the name, this place is a fullfledged pizzeria, steakhouse and wine bar, with pizzas coming crispy and hot from a wood-fired oven, steaks grilled to perfection and a wide selection of Slovene wine from the cellar.

From Tuesday to Friday there are multi-course lunch specials starting from only €6. Of course the cosy wood-covered interior is very pub-like in appearance, and there are four types of draught beer on hand for those who are thirsty.QRakitnik 1a, Prestranek, tel. +386 (0)5 720 13 10, info@aviopub.si, www. aviopub.si. Open 10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun and holidays 11:0023:00. Closed Mon. TLBS Proteus Restaurant In heart of Postojna, only 500m from the entrance to the world famous Postojna Cave, you can find this restaurant named for the underground world’s most famous resident, the Proteus Anguinus, or so-called Human Fish. For those staying in town overnight, accommodation facilities have recently been added above the restaurant. All rooms and apartments are modernly and well-furnished, and the latter also include a kitchen. QTitov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)8 161 0300/+386 (0)40 457 483, info@postojnska-jama. eu, www.postojnska-jama.eu.

Restaurant & Pizzeria Čuk This humble restaurant and pizzeria keeps things simple with good food and friendly service. Located on the edge of town, Čuk is popular with locals and visitors alike. On offer are a range of hearty Slovene dishes and excellent wood-fired pizzas as well as tasty daily specials. The restaurant is great for families with a selection of kid’s meals and a playground to occupy the little ones before or after October - November 2014

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Postojna

Postojna eating. If you are staying in town and don’t feel like heading out, Čuk also delivers.QPot v Pivki 4, tel. +386 (0)5 7201 300, pizzeria.cuk@siol.net, www.pizza-cuk.si.

Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PTLV

Postojnska Jama

Around Postojna Kantina Pivka Maybe it is a sign that we do live in a more peaceful world that things such as this Military History Park and subsequent military canteen can be so very enjoyable. The park itself contains an extensive collection of all things military, including tank-artillery and various aircraft. The canteen gives you the chance to eat in a pseudo-military setting, although with much more enjoyable food and no chance of being sent off at a moments notice to get blown up.QKolodvorksa cesta 51, Pivka, tel. +386 (0)41 74 05 31, info@aviopub.si. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Dolenčevi Tourist Farm Slovenes are a rustic down to earth bunch with many families still growing their own veggies and producing homemade delicacies from salami to plum brandy. The Dolenčevi tourist farm, an ecological family-run estate 10km from Postojna, is the perfect place for visitors to experience this strong connection to the land and taste the fruits of their labour - the homegrown and prepared food at Dolenčevi is excellent, with the house-cured prosciutto and gnocchi with local game coming especially highly recommended. The farm is located in a tranquil forested area with great opportunities for hiking and riding (bike rental available), and the must-see Postojna and Škocjan caves are just a short drive away.QSajevče 8, Hruševje, tel. +386 (0)5 756 20 22, dolencevi@gmx.net, www. dolencevi.si. From €20/person, €24 with breakfast, €34 with half-board.

Morski Konjiček Found near the town of Pivka just off the main PostojnaPivka-Ilirska Bistrica road (some 15 minutes south of the A1 motorway), this sprawling countryside restaurant is a popular stop for Slovenes and tourists after a day at the coast. Given that its name translates ‘seahorse’ in English, it’s not surprising that fish and other seafood specialities are the main focus of the menu here, but for those who have already had their fill of such fare, there are plenty of other dishes and some fine pizzas. For families there’s a children’s playground for a before or after dinner romp, and for those who’d like to stay for a drink or five the place is open till the wee hours at the weekends.QMala Pristava 10, Pivka, tel. +386 (0)5 753 20 55/+386 (0)41 523 325, darija.hrvatic@gmail.com. Open 11:00-24:00, Fri 11:00-04:00, Sat 09:00-04:00, Sun 09:00-24:00. Closed Mon except for holidays.

Read more about Postojna online at postojna.inyourpocket.com 80 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Postojna Cave (Postojnska Jama) The largest cave in the karst region and most visited show cave in all of Europe, words on a page can hardly do justice to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20km of galleries have been found, of which barely a fraction are open to the public. All the same, a visit here still takes up much of a morning or an afternoon, as you make your way through the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by a dinky little narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. There are no stairs or difficult climbs along the path to or inside the cave, so visitors with limited mobility should not have any difficulties.

Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the cave was discovered in the 13th century, though never properly explored until the early 1800s. They opened as a tourist attraction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of Austria, among the first to visit. Bizarrely, so popular did the caves become that electric lights were fitted in 1884: some years before such technology was first deployed in Ljubljana itself.

Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalactites and stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, which can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down here are said to be sensational. Note that the temperature of the cave is a chilly 10°C, so bring a jumper. The caves are also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphibian endemic to the subterranean waters of caves of this part of Europe. The olms can be seen in some of the pools of water as you make your way around the cave. Though blind they are sensitive to flash photography and if you do spot one you should refrain from taking any photos.QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, info@postojnska-jama.eu, www.postojnska-jama. eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov to March tours at 10:00, 12:00 and 15:00, in April and Oct at 10:00, 12:00, 14:00 and 16:00. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Predjama Castle (Predjamski Grad) Located some 10km north of Postojna is one of Europe’s finest castles. Predjama Castle (or Predjamski grad, Höhlenburg Lueg and Castel Lueghi in Slovene, German and Italian respectively), was built in a Gothic style by the Patriarch of Aquileia sometime during the 13th century and first mentioned in the historical record in the year 1274. Perched under a natural archway 123m up a sheer cliff face and surrounded by a thick stone wall, throughout the centuries the castle has gained a well-deserved reputation for being virtually impregnable.

This fact was most popularly demonstrated during the 15th century by the more than year-long siege of Erazem Lueger, who was a knight and the son of the Imperial governor of Trieste, but had also a gained a reputation as a rather proficient robber baron throughout the Habsburg empire. It is said that in 1483, Erazem fled to the castle from Vienna after killing a Marshall of the Imperial Army who had insulted one of his friends, which brought about the wrath of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, who laid siege to the castle. However, thanks to a secret cave leading from the bowels of Predjama to Postojna Cave and then on to the nearby village of Vipava, Erazem was able to secure an steady supply of fresh food and water. Unfortunately for Erazem, his luck ran out when he was betrayed by one of his servants and unceremoniously killed by the shot of a single canon ball while on the toilette. In the years that followed, the castle was destroyed and rebuilt several times, before acquiring a Renaissance style in 1570, which has remained virtually unchanged to this day.

Nowadays the castle is open to the public and serves as a museum. It has been completely restored to its original grandeur, and among other sites visitors can see the residential quarters, the chapel and of course the dungeon. It is also possible to see the legendary cave below the castle, although some climbing and a minimal level of fitness is strongly encouraged if not required. QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, info@postojnska-jama.eu, www. postojnska-jama.eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov to March open from 10:00 to 16:00, in April and Oct from 10:00 to 17:00, in May, June and Sept from 9:00 to 18:00, during July and Aug from 9:00 to 19:00.

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Brdo: Domain of Delights horses and picnics in the park to the the modern conference centre and of course tours of the castle itself. Recent renovations have bestowed the hotel with all the modern comforts, and the premises also include a fine restaurant, new wellness centre and two conference halls. The rooms and suites are a great value, while the 200m2 presidential suite is true to its name, having accommodated a certain US leader during his stay in Slovenia in 2001.QPredoslje 39, tel. +386 (0)4 260 1000, hotel.brdo@gov.si, www. brdo.si. 78 rooms. PHARLKD Fairy tale weddings are one of the many unique happenings at the Brdo Estate

One of the grandest estates in all of Slovenia, Brdo was originally built at the beginning of the 16th century by Habsburg nobleman Georg Egkh, and in the five centuries that followed it was home to several notable owners including the Zois family and the last monarchs of Serbia, the Karađorđević family. In more recently history, the estate served as one of the favourite residences of Yugoslav leader Josip Broz Tito and also famously hosted the first meeting between the then newly elected presidents of the United States and Russia, George Bush and Vladimir Putin. In 2008 a modern conference centre was built to accommodate the numerous high-level events that were held during Slovenia’s six month Presidency of the Council of the EU. The 500-hectare estate is administered by the Protocol Office of the Republic of Slovenia, and is the main venue for the state’s diplomatic events. However, for most of the year the well-kept grounds and it various facilities, including Brdo Castle itself, are open to the public. The site also includes the newly renovated four-star Hotel Brdo, which boasts a new wellness centre and fine restaurant.

Depending on visitors’ interests, the most impressive site at Brdo is either the magnificent grounds or Brdo Castle. In addition to its amazing location at the foothills of the Alps, the estate is criss-crossed with pathways that wind through pastures and gardens, around several lakes and through a large forested area. To traverse the park in style a carriage drawn by white Lipizzaner horses can be hired, as can small golf carts for those who prefer practicality to romance.

Meanwhile in the middle of it all sits the indelible castle.

Relatively modest in size and with an unembellished façade, the interior stands in stark contrast, as it was completely renovated and refurnished after WWII to reflect the tastes of Tito. It has been left more or less unchanged since his death in 1980, offering an intimate look into the life and times of one of the larger than life figures of the 20th century.

HOTEL Brdo Set just outside the entrance of the Brdo estate, Hotel Brdo offers unfettered access to all of the attractions within, from carriage rides drawn by famed white Lipizzaner 82 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Hotel Brdo Restaurant This newly renovated restaurant on the ground floor of Hotel Brdo (formerly Hotel Kokra) is a perfect place for lunch on a family trip to the adjacent Brdo Castle and Park.

Decidedly high-end in appearance, service and cuisine, the menu boasts surprisingly affordable prices, especially during lunch at the weekends. If you’re looking for a more romantic and/or relaxing getaway, you can combine your meal with a trip to the onsite wellness centre, or a horsedrawn carriage ride through the park grounds.QPredoslje 39, Kranj, tel. +386 (0)4 260 1000, +386 (0)4 260 1672, hotel.brdo@gov.si, www.brdo.si. Open 07:00 - 22:00.

PTALBW Strmol Castle Along the road connecting the villages of Češnjevek and Dvorje you will find the fairytale-like castle Strmol and its park. Of the twelve medieval castles in the Cerklje municipality this is the only one which survived the ravages of time and is still in tip-top condition, and is also one of the only castles in all of Slovenia that still includes its original furniture. Since 2004 it has been a registered object of the Republic of Slovenia and used as a guesthouse and conference site by the government.

First mentioned in literature in 1287, Strmol Castle is among the oldest in the area and in essence medieval, but the castle was renovated in Renaissance and Baroque style resulting in an interesting architectural mixture. The castle park has an aesthetically pleasing design dating from the 17th century. Currently it consists of an artificial lake, nonnative trees, grass fields and a fountain, with Dvorjanski hill in the background. Around the castle and the hill are some nice paths for enjoyable strolling, and it has recently opened as a luxury boutique hotel.QTel. +386 (0)4 260 15 01, brdo-eu@gov.si, www.brdo.si. Open for guided tours by prior arrangement.

Vrelec Brdo Wellness This wellness centre is one of the many facilities found at the magnificent Hotel Brdo, which is itself situated on the grounds of the Brdo Castle and Park - an historic estate just north of Kranj, some 30 minutes by car from Ljubljana.

Vrelec offers a wide variety of massages and body care treatments, as well as Finnish and Turkish saunas, a whirlpool and a cold pool for those who are daring enough to take an invigorating dip.QPredoslje 39, Kranj, tel. +386 (0)4 260 18 16, vrelec.brdo@gov.si, www.brdo.si. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Prestige created over Centuries F O R Y O U TO EN J O Y TO D AY

Awaiting your visit in the rays of sunshine, crowned by glorious past, and carrying the tradition into present. Venues where the finest encounters of today’s business world and diplomacy have found its home. Our unique castles and villas are located in Slovenia, the very heart of Europe. With years-long experience of organising protocol events of the highest level, conferences and celebrations – we remain a trusted partner, always ready and honoured to host your event with the outmost of care and the highest quality of services.

Castle Brdo at Brdo Estate Signed with the seal of excellence.

Strmol Castle

Experience beyond compare.

Vila Bled

Timeless elegance.

JGZ Brdo – State Protocol Services of the Republic of Slovenia, Predoslje 39, SI-4000 Kranj, Slovenia Tel: +386 4 260 10 00 Fax: +386 4 202 15 51 email: brdo-eu@gov.si www.brdo.si

Slovenian Spas More on healthy living at: www.slovenia-terme.si

There really aren’t many more relaxing ways to spend a day

In these heady, fast-paced modern times, awareness of the benefits of looking after your health has never been higher. For some this means amending ones lifestyle, for others it means taking advantage of the abundance of health spas on offer. To say Slovenia has a wealth of such spas is an understatement, and the country more than makes the most of its excellent location and agreeable climate to provide revitalisation of the highest order.

Centuries of tradition meld seamlessly with modern science surrounded all the while by exquisitely kept grounds and the stunning landscapes this country excels in providing. A diverse range of treatments can be found, as well as top quality accommodation and activities for all the family. We’ve included a selection of spas here, but for much more information head to the Slovenian Spas website at www.slovenia-terme.si.

Rogaška Slatina Rogaška Slatina, a town in Štajerska in the east of Slovenia, is a town synonymous throughout the country with health tourism, thanks to the wonderfully relaxing facilities at its eponymous health spa. Hidden up in the hills, it has a plethora of different treatments tailor-made to reinvigorate all its guests. Massages, a thermal pool, fitness centre, saunas and a relaxation zone are all at your fingertips. There is also a shop for purchasing the cosmetic used in the treatments..

QZdraviliški trg 12, Rogaška Slatina, +386 (0)3 811 24 70, 84 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

spacenter@grandhotel-rogaska.com, www.grandhotelrogaska.com. Šmarješke Toplice 80km southeast of Ljubljana and sat around 170m above sea level amid forests and meadows, Šmarješke is widely regarded as the place to head to for help with cardiovascular ailments. It has programs in place for post-heart attack rehabilitation among other things, but there is much more to it than just help for the ticker. Six thermal pools, including a wooden pool built above a thermal spring, are among our highlights. Three exclusively-equipped four star hotels are also on board.QŠmarješke Toplice 1000, tel. +386 (0)7 384 34 00, fax +386 (0)7 307 31 07, booking.smarjeske@ terme-krka.si, www.terme-krka.si.

Talaso Strunjan Squeezing every drop out of its Mediterranean location, Strunjan is a natural coastal climate spa specialising in Thalassotherapy, that being the use of seawater as therapy.

Among the pine trees it is found, and the area has a long tradition of fruit and wine growing, along with spring vegetables and the nearby thousand-year old saltpans. The spa complex also possesses a modern diagnostic centre, and excellent walking paths are also nearby.QStrunjan 148, tel. +386 (0)5 676 41 00, fax +386 (0)5 678 20 36, booking.strunjan@terme-krka.si, www.terme-krka.si. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

A story about healthy living There is a long tradition of Slovenian spas that has been taking care of your health.

The decision for a healthy lifestyle waits for you in more than 15 resorts throughout Slovenia.

Slovenian Spas Terme Dobrna Dobrna’s main attraction for visitors, the spa (terme) boasts an almost ancient 600 year history. Since then it has grown into a large complex, sprawling amongst forest and parkland in a lush valley. Virtually everything imaginable in terms of spa and wellness services can be discovered here: honey massage, ayurveda anointments and an ‘iceroom’ in the sauna land - to name but a few that made our visit that bit special. In addition, there’s an exhaustive range of preventative, curative and relaxing treatments on offer; wellness services (massage, hair care, sauna, mineral baths and pools); therapies including Feng Shui and Wu Wei; business facilities and even a wedding service.

In terms of accommodation, four fairly diverse options are available: the Vita (classy and modern), Higiea Vila (picturesque and serene), the Park (less expensive and pets are allowed) and Spa Centre (the oldest - 1624 - and grandest).

Gastronomically speaking there’s ample choice (three of the four hotels have restaurants - Vita, Park, and Spa Centre). A great choice for health and relaxation.QDobrna 50, Dobrna, tel. +386 (0)3 78 08 110, info@terme-dobrna.si, www.terme-dobrna.si.

Terme Dolenjske Toplice Located about 13km south west of Novo Mesto on the edge of the expansive Kočevje forests, Dolenjske Toplice is a destination offering everything one needs to relax.

Dolenjske Toplice’s warm (36-38 °C) calcium-rich waters drawn from depths of 1000m are said to have healing properties and we can attest to always feeling better after a soak. Fancier hotels in town like the historic Kristal and Vital hotels have their own thermal baths whilst most visitors head to the ultra-modern Balnea Wellness Centre spa with indoor and outdoor thermal pools as well as a staggering array of baths and saunas. As for further indulgence there is no shortage of fine restaurants or luxurious massage centres in town. The pristine forests which border the town are also worth exploring - a relaxing endeavour so long as you don’t run into a bear.QZdraviliški Trg 7, Dolenjske Toplice, tel. +386 (0)7 39 19 400, www.termekrka.si.

Terme Radenci Established over 125 years ago near the source of a mineral water spring, the Radenci Health Resort has since grown into a massive complex with over 1.5 square kilometres of pools in all shapes, sizes and temperatures, an assortment of health and wellness programs, a modern business centre and two hotels to accommodate the constant flow of guests. However, if forced to name the highlight of our stay, it would likely be a draw between two Ayurveda massages, Shiroabhyanga and Padabhyanga - we may not be able to pronounce them properly, but we’ve never been more blissfully relaxed. To get there, take the A5 east from Maribor and look for the exit to Radenci after about 50km, then continue about 15km north.QZdraviliško naselje 12, Radenci, tel. +386 (0)25 20 27 20, fax +386 (0)25 20 27 23, info@zdravilisce-radenci.si, www.zdravilisce-radenci.si.

PTHARUFLEGBKDCW 86 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Directory Terme Topolšica A cute but comfortable little spa, family waterpark and wellness centre with hotel accommodation. More ‘off the beaten track’ than others, which means it’s peaceful and relaxing, plus good if you want to ski (Golte is only 25 minutes away). There’s a medium-sized thermal pool which is both indoor and outdoor (connected by a tunnel), warm whirlpools and an indoor swimming pool. During the summer, a family waterpark with slides, fun pools and snack bar opens and is connected to the main spa by wooden bridge. Saunas plus extensive medical and therapeutic treatments are offered in the wellness centre.QTopolšica 77, Šoštanj, tel. +386 (0)3 896 3100/+386 (0)3 896 3170, info@t-topolsica.si, www.terme-topolsica.si.

Terme Zreče Going by the imaginative name of Idila, the wellness centre in Terme Zreče is unsurprisingly idyllic. Bringing various kinds of far-eastern therapy to Slovenia, you can choose from such delights as Thai massage with herbs and/or oils, Sawaddee massage, Ayodhaya, Hanakasumi or Ayurveda.

That being the first program, the second comprises a series of enticingly named treats for two; ladies shall undoubtedly melt upon sight of a ‘Divine Bath’ or at the thought of ‘Chocolate Dream Luxury’ (they also host weddings). Not content with how you look? The ‘Water Lily Pampering’ or ‘Green Coffee & Firm Skin’ are a couple of the many beauty offerings here.QCesta na Roglo 15, Zreče, tel. +386 (0)3 75 76 000, fax +386 (0)3 57 62 446, unitur@unitur.eu, www.terme-zrece.eu.

Thermana Laško Located side by side on the banks of the Savinja River, Laško’s two biggest hotel and spa centres - Wellness Park Laško and Zdravilišče Laško - give visitors a chance to choose between tradition and modernity. Everything in the hotel is stylish and modern, from the reception desks to the café overlooking the river, and the rooms have the look of luxury apartments.

Visitors looking to relax should check out the hotel’s thermal centre, which is housed under a futuristic glass dome that can be opened on warm days, as well as the sauna, wellness and well-equipped fitness centres.

After working up an appetite with all that swimming and working out, you can get a healthy meal at the hotel’s a la carte restaurant or fill up at the buffet. This is definitely the place to be when you’re in need of some serious pampering. The fourstar Hotel Zdravilišče, meanwhile, is the older and cheaper of the two hotels and caters to a different crowd, mostly people in need of rehabilitation. If a more traditional spa experience is what you’re after, Hotel Zdravilišče is probably the better option. Laško is located roughly 85km east of Ljubljana and 15km south of Celje, if you’re without your own transport, all trains from Ljubljana to Celje and Maribor stop at the main station.

QZdraviliška 6, Laško, tel. +386 (0)3 423 20 00, fax +386 (0)3 423 20 10, info@thermana.si, www.thermana.si.

Many more spas online at slovenia.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Hair Salons RokSalonQStari Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)59 921 826, info@ roksalon.si, www.roksalon.si. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Stevo QC-2, Trubarjeva 44, tel. +386 (0)1 431 51 38, stevo@siol.net, www.stevo.si. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Hospitals & Clinics Barsos-MC QB/C-4, Gregorčičeva 11, tel. +386 (0)12 42 07 00, fax +386 (0)1 242 07 44, www.barsos.net.

Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Health Centre Metelkova QF-2, Metelkova 9, tel. +386 (0)1472 37 00, fax +386 (0)1472 38 90, center@ zd-lj.si, www.zd-lj.si.

Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna Dolina QJ-4, Rožna Dolina IV/45, tel. +386 (0)1477 94 00, info@ kirurski-sanatorij.si, www.kirurski-sanatorij.si.

University Medical Centre Ljubljana QF/G-2, Zaloška 2, tel. +386 (0)1522 50 50, info@kclj.si, www.kclj.si.

Ljubljana’s colourful co-operative bank building

Mobitel QD-1, Vilharjeva 25, tel. +386 (0)1472 23 20, info@mobitel.si, www.mobitel.si. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Tušmobil QJ-2, Brnčičeva 49, tel. +386 (0)80 700 700, www.tusmobil.si.

Laundry & Dry Cleaning

Vodafone SimobilQB-3, Prešernov Trg, tel. +386 (0)1426 71 02, info@simobil.si, www.simobil.si. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Femiks QE-2, Kotnikova 18, tel. +386 (0)1230 18 20, femiks@amis.net. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Pharmacies

Operi in Posuši Ljubljana’s first self-service laundry facilities are located in the Mercator centre shopping complex opposite the main northern entrance to BTC City. Washing cost €3, and drying is €1 for 20 minutes, and there’s even free WiFi. QM-2, Beblerjev Trg 2 (TC Mercator), tel. +386 (0)64 116 341, info@operiinposusi.si, operiinposusi.si. Open Mon-Fri 08:00-20:00, Sat 08:00-17:00 and Sun 08:00-12:00.

Libraries City Library (Mestna Knjižnica) The regional library for central Slovenia is the most popular library in the country, and has a wide range of English literature.QC-2, Kersnikova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 600 13 00, www.mklj.si. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Central Pharmacy (Centralna Lekarna) QD-3, Prešernov Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1230 61 00, lekarna. ljubljana@lekarna-lj.si, www.lekarna-lj.si. Open 07:30 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun 1.5.-15.9. open Mon. Fri 07:30-20:00.

Lekarna Ljubljana (Lekarna pri polikliniki) QF-2, Prisojna 7, tel. +386 (0)1230 61 00, lekarna. poliklinika@lekarna-lj.si, www.lekarna-lj.si. Open 24hrs.

Lekarna Miklošič QD-2, Miklošičeva 24, tel. +386 (0)1230 61 00, lekarna.miklosic@lekarna-lj.si, www.lekarnalj.si. Open 07:30 - 19:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Shoe repair

Narodna In Univerzitetna Knjižnica (National & University Library) Home of Slovenia’s written cultural heritage, this well-organised library is every researcher’s dream.QB-3, Turjaška 1, tel. +386 (0)1200 11 88, info@nuk.uni-lj.si, www.nuk.uni-lj.si.

Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Aleš Cevljar We can’t honestly say we know much about the art of mending shoes, but we’ve been going to this guy for years now and he’s never let us down. He also charges so little that we almost feel guilty. Definitely recommended!QE-2, Barvarska Steza 5, tel. +386 (0)40 241 282, ales.beljan@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Mobile Phones

Translators

Debitel QŽelezna cesta 18, tel. +386 (0)1306 01 00, center@debitel.si, www.debitel.si.

Alkemist QJ-2, Obirska 4, tel. +386 (0)1 514 16 78, info@alkemist.si, www.alkemist.si.

Hotpoint chargerQtel. +386 (0)70 797 700, info@ hotpoint.si, www.hotpoint.si.

KibordQStranska Vas 17b, Dobrova pri Ljubljani, tel. +386 (0)40 747 447, info@kibord.si, www.kibord.si.

facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

October - November 2014

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DLjubljana Exhibition and

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SCALE 1:10,000 0,2

Pot n a G olovec

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0,3

Kilometers

0,4

MONOLIT