Ljubljana In Your Pocket #39

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Ljubljana December 2014 - January 2015

Festive December

All the sights, sounds and noises of the festive season in Ljubljana inyourpocket.com N°39 - € 2.90

Nightlife

Your guide to Ljubljana’s best clubs, pubs and more

Argentino / Ĺ martinska 152 (BTC) / 1000 Ljubljana / Slovenija

Typical style of an Argentinian hacienda. Always fresh meat, best quality beef from Argentina. Indulge yourself with our grilled specialities. Old Argentinian recipes, on typical grills imported from Argentina. Wine Cellar with over 130 Argentinian Wines

www.argentino.si / mobile: +386 31 600 900

Contents

All you need to know about where to sleep, eat, drink, visit and enjoy Online

E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

City Basics 7 The immediate need-to-knows

Arrival & Transport 8 Planes, trains, buses, taxis and transfers

Culture & Events Live Music Listings Cultural centres and venues

12 12 13

Restaurants 16 Everything from A to V(egan)

Cafés 32 Enjoy one of Ljubljana’s favourite pastimes

Nightlife 35 Dance and drink the night away

Sightseeing 44

Print

Bridges, museums and the castle

Mobile

Postojna 51 Home of the world famous cave

Grandpa Frost returns to Ljubljana this December

Shopping 53 Where to go and what to buy

Sport & Fitness 59 Sweat yourself into shape

Hotels 60 Business suites to hostel bunks

Embassies & Expats 67 A special feature for foreign residents

Directory

70

Maps & Index

Europe’s biggest publisher of locally produced city guides ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Street performers promise to entertain this festive season

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City map

72

City centre map

74 December 2014 - January 2015

5

Foreword

City Basics

The temperature might be dropping fast here in the Slovene capital (and with it comes the foreboding fog), but this doesn’t mean the streets are dead. If anything, as winter sets in and the snow begins to fall, Ljubljana’s streets become more and more packed with locals and visitors alike, braving the cold in order to sip mulled wine and warm schnapps or gaze in awe at the mass of Christmas lights that cause the city centre to glisten over the holidays. It isn’t all flashy lights and seasonal beverages however, as a schedule of events and entertainment to match any other in Europe unfurls throughout December, with Ljubljana’s city centre squares playing host to live music and other outlets of seasonal joy.

The streets also become lined with stalls selling all manner of things, from souvenirs to schnapps, with one of the most picturesque Christmas markets in Europe.

The New Year’s Eve fireworks emanating from the castle brings the festive cheer to an end, but cheer of many different kinds will continue to flourish in town. The nights are getting longer, which leads us to the logical conclusion that we’ve much more time to dedicate to nightlife.

To ensure you get the best out of this, we’ve included a seven-page guide to Ljubljana’s nightlife within, so head to pages 35 through 43 to find out where to spend your evenings this winter. We take a look at the best of Ljubljana’s pubs, bars, clubs, casinos, adult entertainment and much more, a section that we weren’t too disheartened about researching. As always, we’ve got the finest restaurants, cafes, shops, hotels covered, as well as the many sights that make Ljubljana a glorious place to visit, whatever time of year it may be. Live music really picks up in December as you can see from our monthly listings, and a number of interesting theatre performances should help us start 2015 on the right foot. As always we welcome any and all feedback, be it on Facebook, Twitter, Foursquare, Instagram, email or lovingly wrapped in our Christmas stocking.

Temperature, °C

Publisher E S S E N TI A L Ljubljana In Your Pocket C I TY G U I D E S Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia Tel. +386 30 316 602/+386 (0)30 31 66 07 ljubljana@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc., niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com ISSN 1855-3486 ©IQBATOR d.o.o.

Printed Evrografis d.o.o.

Published Published six times per year Editorial Editor John Bills Writer John Bills, Will Dunn, Craig Turp, Richard Schofield, James Cosier, Yuri Barron Design Vaida Kniūkštienė Consulting Craig Turp Photography Ljubljana tourism, Dunja Wedam, Tadej Mulej, Urša Culiberg, Branka Jovanović, John Bills.

Cover photo © Dunja Wedam Sales & Circulation Sales & Operations Management Irena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar, Stanka Parkelj Rozina Copyright notice Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania, tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).

ESTONIA RUSSIA

LITHUANIA

NORTHERN IRELAND IRELAND

BELARUS NETHERLANDS BELGIUM

POLAND UKRAINE

GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND ITALY

HUNGARY

SLOVENIACROATIA BOSNIA SERBIA MONTENEGRO

ROMANIA

GEORGIA

BULGARIA

FYR MACEDONIA ALBANIA GREECE

DUTCH CARIBBEAN SOUTH AFRICA

6 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Rainfall, mm

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Not content with publishing more than 100 guides to cities across three continents, In Your Pocket is currently preparing a new round of expansion for 2015.

New cities due to be pocketed include Rotterdam in the Netherlands, while some old favourites, such as Budapest in Hungary and the Russian exclave of Kaliningrad will be getting a reboot.

And there is a brand new digital platform to look forward to.

In order to make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket). ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

B Outside seating

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly K Restaurant

J Old town location

30

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

Crime and safety Ljubljana is one of the safest capital cities in the world, with the only prevalent crime being bicycle theft, which is unlikely to affect short term visitors. Nowhere in the city is unsafe to walk at at any hour, although if you’re by yourself it’s probably best to avoid certain parts of Tivoli Park in the middle of the night. The only real threat to safety in the city comes from out-of-control cyclists and negligent drivers not paying attention to pedestrians. Perhaps a secondary menace are slow-to-react automatic doors that seem to be installed in shops across Ljubljana - causing hurried consumers much grief and the rare minor injury.

Drinking Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and sadly after 21:00 it cannot be bought in stores.

Slovenia adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 eu-

basic data Population Slovenia 2,048,951 (2011 estimate) Ljubljana 280,140 (2011 estimate) Area 20,273 square kilometres Ethnic composition Slovenian 83%, Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3%, Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7% Official languages Slovenian, Italian, Hungarian Local time Central European (GMT + 1hr) Longest river Sava (221km in Slovenia) Highest mountain Triglav 2,864m.

Borders Austria 318km, Italy 280km, Hungary 102km, Croatia 670km facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

60

Money

Maps Monolit d.o.o.

About IYP

LATVIA

SYMBOL key

Climate

ros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated with among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses, a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik design.

Smoking Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.

Toilets Clean and pleasant public toilets can be found at Dragon Bridge (07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plečnik Passageway west of Zvezda Park (07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) and at Triple Bridge (07:00 - 21:00).

Exchange rates 1 EUR € = 0.79 UK£ = 1.24 US$ = 1.20 CHF = 7.6 CNY = 146 YEN = 120 ДИН = 56.8 руб (23 November 2014)

Market Values Compared to the rest of Western and Central Europe, prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite noticeable increases since the introduction of the Euro in 2007. Here are some typical everyday products and prices:

Product Price McDonald’s Big Mac €2.40 Slice of pizza € 1.80 Slice of burek € 2.00 Cup of coffee € 1.10 Bottle of name brand vodka € 12.50 Decent bottle of local wine € 3.50 Bottle of local beer in a shop € 1.10 Pint of beer in a pub € 2.70 Pack of cigarettes € 3.20 Single bus ride € 1.20 Movie ticket € 4.90 Litre of petrol € 1.49 Taxi ride across town € 5.00 December 2014 - January 2015

7

Arriving & Getting Around Officially part of the Schengen zone since late 2007 and nearly completely surrounded by other Schengen-agreement countries, entering Slovenia has never been easier.

With a well-developed system of buses, trains and highways throughout the country, getting around is also fairly easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively small, meaning public transport is rarely, if ever, needed when in town.

Arriving & Getting Around A Word From Our Mayor

Arriving in Ljubljana Arriving by plane Ljubljana’s cosy little Jože Pučnik Airport is 26km northwest of the city, near Brnik. Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule. Tickets can be bought from the driver when boarding the bus.

Arriving by train Once you’ve worked out the tunnel and stair system and made it to the main train station building, find everything you need including an ATM and press stand selling topup cards (but alas no SIM cards) for prepaid SIM accounts.

Left luggage is provided courtesy of 80 coin-operated lockers with instructions in English on platform Nº1, with the toilets conveniently located next door. Getting to town depends as always on where you’re planning to stay and how fit you are. Many central hotels are within reasonable walking distance. Alternatively, find taxis outside, and make sure the meter is running before you depart.

Arriving by bus All national and international buses arrive at the central bus station which is located directly in front of the main train station. The ‘temporary’ prefabricated station building features little in the way of facilities for recent arrivals, making a trip to the train station almost compulsory. Perhaps the only one of its kind in the world, the bus station does however contain a Sixt car rental kiosk, with the only

Vinjeta - A Ticket to Drive www.dars.si. Slovenia requires all motor vehicles travelling on Slovenian highways to have a vinjeta (veen-yeh-tah) sticker. This system exists in lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta can be easily obtained at nearly all gas stations and kiosks. Yearly/monthly/weekly stickers are €110/30/15 for cars, €220/80/40 for larger vehicles (ie with a height of over 1.3m above the front axis) and €55/30/7.50 for motorcycles. Also be aware that border police will likely not remind you to purchase a vinjeta when entering the country, but are highly likely to issue you a steep fine when leaving if you’ve failed to do so. For more info check www.dars.si.

8 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

‘For me, Ljubljana is the most beautiful city in the world - a capital unique for its special position in the heart of Slovenia. As a city with rich history and cultural heritage, it attracts more visitors every year from near and far. The most important ambassadors for Ljubljana are undoubtedly our residents, who immerse themselves in the mix of cultures and always ensure a touch of comfort and warmth with their openness, kindness and hospitality.

Welcome to Ljubljana!

Zoran Janković Mayor

other useful facility being a small internet café for which tickets can be acquired from ticket window Nº1. Getting to town is the same as described above.

Arriving by car Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and excellent signposting. The city is circled by a ring road from where it’s easy to get to the centre. Simply follow the parking signs for convenient places to leave your car near the city centre. Once in the city, it’s best to walk the short distances rather than drive through the heavy traffic and narrow street. Also, if you’re staying in Old Ljubljana be aware that it is largely a pedestrian only zone.

Public Transport

Airport

Although most of Ljubljana’s sights are within easy walking distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of people (and you can trust us as we’re proud card carrying members of both groups), there is a far-reaching and fairly efficient bus network for reaching attractions farther afield, such as the Zoo, BTC shopping centre or even distant Šmarna Gora, or for those interested in seeing what the city looks like outside the city centre. Although you may be lucky enough to see some Tito-era antiques plying the roads, the entire fleet is currently being modernised, so most of the time you can expect a comfortable ride. Schedules are displayed at all stops, and fares can only be paid using an Urbana Card or a Slovene mobile phone.

Ljubljana Airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika) Well connected to the Balkans and most major European destinations, Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport, 26km northwest of the city, is as small and efficient as the rest of the country. There’s free Wi-Fi for internet addicts, a buffet-style restaurant, a couple cafés, a bank (with ATM) and currency exchange office (open 07:00 - 19:00) and a post office (open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00-12:00, Sun closed).

Trains Train Station (Železniška Postaja) Full of nice touches such as little conveyor belts for taking heavy bags up to the platforms, Ljubljana’s reasonably central train station is just north of the main action. See Arriving for information on several of the station’s facilities, plus, if you’re planning on leaving town, the ticket office straight out of a 1970s disco movie is to the left of the main entrance, with signs and departure screens in English.QE-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte, tel. +386 (0)1291 33 32, potnik.info@slo-zeleznice.si, www.slo-zeleznice.si.

Open 05:00 - 22:00.

Europcar

Buses

What do Volkswagen, Renault, Skoda, Mercedes and Audi have in common? If you guessed that they are all top quality internationally respected car manufacturers, you’d be right. You’d also be right if you guessed that they were all available for rental from Europcar. Not only that, but great extras such as child seats, GPS and WiFi routers are also on offer. A great option for anyone looking to rent a car to explore the country.QK-2, Celovška 268, tel. +386 (0)59 070 500, reservations@europcar.si, www.europcar.si. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. (04) 236 79 90, open 08:00-21:00.

Ljubljana Bus Station (Avtobusno Postajališče) Essentially a large caravan without any wheels, Ljubljana’s temporary central bus station couldn’t be easier to use. Enter through one of the doors at either end, buy a ticket from one of the kiosks, and away you go.

Some tickets can be bought directly from the driver, but you should always check in the bus station to make sure.

The bus station operates many national routes as well as regular international services.QD/E-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 4, tel. +386 (0)1 234 46 00, fax +386 (0)1 234 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana.si, www.apljubljana.si. Open 05:00 - 22:30, Sat 05:00 - 22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30.

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Transfers Na Letališče Getting to and from the airport is always a source of consternation for many travellers. Na Letališče is here to take that anxiety away, offering a comfortable shuttle service to and from Ljubljana airport, as well as many others in the area including Trieste, Venice and Vienna.

Prices are fixed, starting at €8, and discounts are on offer for larger groups. A free bottle of water is even provided.

Qtel. +386 (0)40 93 53 85, info@naletalisce.si, www. naletalisce.si.

Car Rental Avant Winners of our Best Car Rental poll for 2014, Avant offer vehicles of all shapes and sizes, with something to fit the needs of any prospective driver. Only the most respected and renowned international manufacturers make up their regularly renewed fleet, and they have an outstanding history and reputation for quality and service. Deserved winners of our vote, to say the least.QL1, Dunajska 140, tel. +386 (0)1 589 08 50, avantcarl@ avantcar.si, www.nationalcar-slovenia.com. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. Airport office tel.

(04) 589 08 68, open 08:00 - 22:00.

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9

Arriving & Getting Around Goopti

Urbana Card

This new low cost airport shuttle service offers transfers to and from airports in neighbouring countries.

Departures can be booked between Ljubljana to nearly 20 airports in the region, including Venice, Munich and Vienna, using GoOpti’s novel online booking system.

Rates begin at as little as €9 per person.Qtel. +386 (0)1 320 45 30, info@goopti.com, www.goopti.com.

01-320-45-30

GoOpti.com Low cost shuttle to Slovenia

Venice from Ljubljana 14 €

Taxis Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable. The starting rate is usually between €0.80-1.50 with a per kilometre rate of €0.70-1.70, depending on the company, time of day and number of passenger. Waiting usually costs €1520 per hour. Ordering a taxi by phone will get you lower rates for longer distance trips.

Laguna TaxiQJ-1, Celovška 228, tel. +386 (0)31 492 299/+386 (0)1 511 23 14, fax +386 (0)1 511 23 14, taxi. laguna@siol.net, www.taxi-laguna.com.

Metro TaxiQM-3/4, Litijska 16, tel. +386 (0)80 11 90/+386 (0)4 124 02 00, taxi@metroprevozi.net, www. metroprevozi.net/TaxiPrevozi.htm.

The city bus operator, LPP, has finally introduced the long-awaited Urbana Card, a form of electronic ticketing that will eventually replace the previous hodgepodge system of payment that included tokens, coins and photo ID cards. The credit card-sized smart card is similar to those already used in other cities, such as London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass. The cards can be purchased for a one-time fee of €2 at many locations including various tobacconists and news-stands, tourist offices, the central bus station and LPP offices at Bavarski Dvor and Celovška Cesta 160. Credit can be added for any amount between €1-50 at these same locations as well as some three dozen green Urbanomati machines scattered around town. When getting on the bus simply touch the card to one of the green card readers at the front entrance and €1.20 will be deducted from the card allowing 90 minutes of travel, including unlimited transfers.

Taxi BrnikQtel. +386 (0)41 755 539/+386 (0)41 606 716, taxibrnik@siol.net, www.taxibrnik.com.

Taxi RondoQtel. +386 (0)70 900 900/+386 (0)31 225 588, info@taxi-rondo.si, www.taxi-rondo.si.

Parking Garages PH Kapitelj The garage is only 100m or so from the famous Dragon Bridge and Tržnica market. While there are only 261 spaces, you can normally find a free one.QE-3, Poljanski nasip 4, tel. +386 (0)1 360 36 48/+386 (0)51 366 510, phkapitelj@kranjska-id.com, www.parkiraj.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

PH Meksiko A large modern facility situated adjacent to the Slovenia’s main medical facilities and just down the street from the central bus and railway stations. There are a total of 624 spaces, and the ground floor is home to a popular German supermarket.QF-2, Njegošova 4, tel. +386 (0)1 600 40 38/+386 (0)51 366 510, phmeksiko@kranjska-id.com, www.parkiraj.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

PH Šentpeter Situated near the University of Ljubljana Medical 10 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Centre at the intersection of Zaloška and Njegoševa Streets, Šentpeter Parking House boasts some 500 parking spaces.QF-3, Zaloška 1, tel. +386 (0)1 430 59 02/+386 (0)5 136 65 10, phsentpeter@ kranjska-id.com, www.parkiraj.si. Open 00:00 24:00.

PH Trdinova Only a short walk from the Ljubljana Stock Exchange, main courthouse and various corporate head offices, the Trdinova Parking House has near 1200 spaces.

QD-2, Trdinova 9, tel. +386 (0)1 230 96 00/+386 (0)5 136 65 10, phtrdinova@kranjska-id.com, www.parkiraj.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

From 07:00-19:00 €2 per hour, from 19:00-07:00 the first four hours are €1 per hour, while additional hours are €0.50. The daily rate is €32, while monthly fees are as low as €150. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

music + art + discussion Ljubljana = 4. — 6. feb 2015

Creative interplay between music, art and technology with cutting edge international visual artists and high-profile live music acts from the Balkans to the Baltic and beyond. www.ment.si Locations = Kino Šiška + Metelkova City + Club K4

Culture & Events

Culture & Events Events in December 3 Dec - Suicide Silence @ Kino Šiška 4 Dec - Metal All Stars @ Dvorana Tivoli 5 Dec - Fake Orchestra: Tribute to Billie Holliday @ Cankarjev Dom 7 Dec - Mad Caddies @ Gala Hala 8 - 14 Dec - Animateka: Animated Film Festival @ Various venues 8 Dec - Onyx @ Gala Hala 9 Dec - Eluveite @ Kino Šiška 11 Dec - Demolition Group @ Menza pri koritu 13 Dec - Disciplin a Kitschme @ Gala Hala 14 Dec - Bryan Adams @ Stožice 16 Dec - Vlado Kreslin @ Cankarjev Dom

Events in January 1 Jan - Help! Beatles Tribute @ Kongresni trg 8 Jan - Barnabãs Kelemen and Olli Mustomen @ Filharmonija 9 Jan - Who Am I, Who Are You? @ Cankarjev Dom 14 Jan - Izak Hudnik @ Cankarjev Dom 21-22 Jan - Conventa @ Exhibition and Convention Centre 22 Jan - R Strauss: Solome @ National Opera 22 Jan - Chico Cesar @ Cankarjev Dom 23 Jan - Homer: The Illyad @ Cankarjev Dom 28 - 31 Jan - Alpe Adria Tourism and Leisure Shoe @ Exhibition and Convention Centre 29 Jan - P Šavli:Shepherd @ National Opera 1 Feb - Earth @ Kino Šiška

19 Dec - Mad Professor @ Gala Hala 19 Dec - Umek @ Kurzschluss 20 Dec - The Brand New Heavies @ Kurzschluss 25 Dec - Magnifica @ Kurzschluss 29 Dec - Romeo and Juliet @ Cankarjev Dom Clockwise from top left: Slovenian folk music hero Vlado Kreslin, a theatre adaption of Homer’s ‘The Illyad’, UK dub-master Mad Professor and ska legends Mad Caddies are the tip of Ljubljana’s entertainment iceberg this winter

31 Dec - New Years Celebrations @ Various venues

The one-time home of the Austrian composer Gustav Mahler, Ljubljana continues to inspire, nurture and produce a wide and eclectic mix of creative individuals and groups. Whether it’s the work of the Slovenian artists Richard Jakopič or Ivana Kobilca you’re here to see, or if you simply want to watch the latest Hollywood film, Ljubljana provides everything you need and more besides.

For more cultural information - including museums, art galleries and churches - take a look at the Sightseeing section of this guide. For a complete list of galleries, theatres and much more in town, head to our website for more information.

29.11 Saturday - 07.12 Sunday 30th Lesbian and Gay Film Festival Annually held on the first week of December, Ljubljana’s Lesbian and Gay Film Festival celebrates its 30 year anniversary in 2014. This makes it not only the oldest gay and lesbian film festival in Europe, but also Slovenia’s oldest international film festival. Impressive. Films from all over the globe are on show throughout the week, with plenty of additions sure to be added for this big anniversary.

QKolodvorska 13, www.ljudmila.org/siqrd/fglf/.

09.10 Thursday - 01.09 Tuesday Gorenje At A Touch A new exhibition open at the excellent Technical Museum of Slovenia at Vrhnika, Gorenje Touch takes a concise look back at 60 years of Gorenj’s producing top-quality household appliances. The evolution of their designs, as well as their constant attempts to reduce their energy consumption, will be on show, and the technical side of the exhibition is every bit as fascinating as the sheer nostalgia on view. The exhibition runs until September 2015.QTechnical Museum of Slovenia, Bistra 6, tel. +386 (0)1 750 66 70, info@tms.si, www.tms.si.

Music

Exhibitions

Conferences & Fairs

21.06 Saturday - 15.05 Friday We Never Imagined Such A War Commemorating the 100-year anniversary of the outbreak of World War One, ‘We Never Imagined Such A War’ is a thought-provoking exhibition on show at the National Museum of Contemporary History. Pieced together from the personal stories of both civilians and conscripts, the terrible journey across the battlefield is brought to life by photographs and the personal objects of those most affected. Archive footage and documentaries are also on show, including a five-part film produced by RTV Slovenia.

Learn more about the war that saw the death of AustriaHungary and the birth of a new era for Slovenia.QNational Museum of Contemporary History, Celovška 23, www.muzej-nz.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

21.01 Wednesday - 22.01 Thursday Conventa The Slovenian Convention Bureau’s 7th Southeast European Exhibition for Meetings, Events and Incentive Travel, will be held at the Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre. The event brings together a wide selection of exhibitors from the tourism and international meetings industry in Southeast Europe, including convention bureaus, tourist boards, convention centres and hotels, event planning agencies, airlines and transport companies and various media for the purpose of arranging one-to-one meetings with top industry buyers who are responsible for organising international events for their firms.QD-1, Gospodarsko Razstavišče, Dunajska 18, tel. +386 (0)1 430 51 03, info@conventa.si, www.conventa.si.

14.12 Sunday Bryan Adams - Stožice Sports Arena You’d be hard pushed to find someone who hasn’t heard of Bryan Adams. Hits such as ‘Summer of ‘69’ have dominated the airwaves for decades after all. Well, exactly three decades actually, as Adams heads out on his ‘Reckless’ tour, celebrating the 30th anniversary of the album of the same name. Ljubljana’s Stožice Sports Arena will play host to the legend in the middle of December.QL-2, Stožice Sports Arena, Vojkova cesta 100. €45 - 69.

Many more events online at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com 12 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Festivals

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Concert Halls Centre StožiceQL-1, Vojkova Cesta.

Gala HalaQF-1, Masarykova 24, tel. +386 (0)1 43 17 063, drustvo.kapa@gmail.com, www.galahala.com.

KrižankeQC-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 1, tel. +386 (0)12 41 60 26.

Opera & Ballet LjubljanaQB/C-3, Župančičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 24 11 766/+386 (0)31 696 600, blagajna@ opera.si, www.opera.si.

Slovenian Philharmonic (Slovenska Filharmonija)QC-4, Kongresni Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 241 08 00, info@filharmonija.si, www.filharmonija.si.

Conference Venues Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre (Gospodarsko Razstavišče)QD-1, Dunajska 18, tel. +386 (0)13 00 26 11, luka.zajc@gr-sejem.si, www.gr-sejem.si.

Cultural Centres Kino Šiška (Urban Cultural Centre)QK-3, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)30 310 100, info@kinosiska.si, www.kinosiska.si. PHLEB Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture Centre) QF-1/2, Masarykova 24, www.metelkovamesto.org.

Galleries Aksioma Project SpaceQD/E-2, Komenskega 18, tel. +386 (0)590 54 360/+386 (0)590 17 010, projectspace@aksioma.org, www.aksioma.org. Open 12:00 18:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. December 2014 - January 2015 13

Culture & Events Galerija FotografijaQD-4, Mestni Trg 11/I, tel. +386 (0)1 25 11 529, info@galerijafotografija.si, www. galerijafotografija.si. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Jakopič Galerija QC-4, Slovenska 9, tel. +386 (0)1 24 12 500, info@mestnimuzej.si, www.mestnimuzej.si.

Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

beartangel This little gallery on Gornji trg in Ljubljana’s old town is the peaceful sanctuary of local Slovene artist Božidar A. Kolerič, who paints under the name BeArtAngel. Kolerič has spent his life exploring creativity and life energy, and BeArtAngel represents his latest artistic endeavour. The paintings, which are known around the world, are said to represent unseen energies and can support people in achieving inner peace. If it all sounds a little confusing then worry not, Kolerič is on hand at the gallery and happy to explain the meaning behind BeArtAngel and each painting’s energies. The famed ‘Mosaics of Intention’, the work of Sebastian Žvanut aided by thruly unique lighting created by Jonathan Kuk, are also available to view and purchase.QD-4, Gornji Trg 19, tel. +386 (0)41 764 352, beartangel@gmail.com, www.beartangel. si. Open 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Festive Ljubljana bUY Tickets Tickets for events can usually be purchased in advance at the venue, or from ticket agencies.

Eventim Online ticket sales for more than 3,000 events per year, including concerts, sports, and cultural events across Slovenia and Central Europe. Check the offer of events and buy tickets before you even arrive in Slovenia.

QB-1, Celovška 25, tel. +386 (0)14 30 24 05, info@ eventim.si, www.eventim.si/portal/en.

Tourist Information Centre The helpful staff at Ljubljana’s main tourist information centre can answer pretty much any question you have about the city, provide you with maps and countless other brochures, and also sell tickets for concerts, shows and various other events.QD-3, AdamičLundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. +386 (0)13 06 12 15, tic@ visitljubljana.si, www.visitljubljana.si. Open October-May 08:00-19:00, June-September 08:00-21:00.

Kapelica Gallery QC-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. +386 (0)40 21 22 92, gallery@kapelica.org, www.kapelica. org. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Mestna Galerija (City Gallery) QD-3/4, Mestni Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1 241 17 70, mestna.galerija-lj@siol.net, www.mestna-galerija.si. Open 11:00 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Škuc Gallery QD-4, Stari Trg 21, tel./fax +386 (0)1421 31 40, galerija.skuc@guest.arnes.si, www.galerija.skuc-drustvo.si. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

Theatres Gledališče GlejQC-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 251 66 79, info@glej.si, www.glej.si.

Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno Gledališče) QD/E-3, Krekov Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)1300 09 70, www.lgl. si. The box office is open Monday to Friday from 16:00 to 18:00, Saturday from 10:00 to 12:00, and during the hour prior to each performance.

Slovenian Youth Theatre (Slovensko Mladinsko Gledališče)QE-1, Vilharjeva 11, tel. +386 (0)1 425 33 12, info@mladinsko-gl.si, en.mladinsko.com. Main box office at Trg Francoske Revolucije 5 is open Mon-Fri 12:00-17:30, Sat 10:0013:00.

Stara Mestna Elektrarna - Elektro LjubjanaQE-2, Slomskova 18, tel. +386 (0)51 269 906, info@bunker.si, www.bunker.si.

14 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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Immerse yourself in Ljubljana’s romantic festive atmosphere this December, of which Prešernov trg is the centre

December is upon us, and regardless of your age this means Christmas time is here! To those who side with The Grinch this might not be the best news to hear, but Ljubljana will certainly be going all out to fill all and sundry with the festive spirit this December. A variety of events will take place throughout the month, as the Slovenian capital gears up for the big day itself on December 25th.

December 3rd sees the glistening Christmas lights being turned on, with Prešernov trg typically acting as the centrepiece as the Festive Fair builds around Ljubljana’s main square. During December the Festive Fair becomes the very centre of Ljubljana’s social world, with a most vibrant atmosphere enveloping the many stalls that line both sides of the Ljubljanica, making it the perfect place to buy gifts, sample some kuhano vino (mulled wine) or to simply soak up some festive joy.

Entertainment for all ages will be on offer, whether in the shape of Fairytale Town on Kongresni trg, the temporary ice-skating rink on Plečnikov trg or one of the many street performances or concerts dotted throughout the city. For a full list of Christmas events in Ljubljana, look no further! facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Festive events 3 Dec - Festive lights switch-on @ Prešernov trg 3 - 6 Dec - St Nicholas Fair @ Prešernov trg 5 Dec - St Nicholas Procession @ City centre 6 - 24 Dec - Magical Forest @ Kongresni trg 10 Dec - The Nutcracker @ National Opera 16 Dec - Christmas Art Market @ Pošta Slovenije 20 Dec - Pre-Christmas Dance @ Ljubljana Castle 21 Dec - RTV Christmas Concert @ Cankarjev Dom 24 Dec - Christmas Concert @ Mestni trg

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Restaurants

Restaurants Hiša Kulinarike Manna Set in a colourful little house on one of Ljubljana’s prettiest (and most overlooked) streets, Manna offers a divine selection of contemporary Slovene cuisine for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Meals are complimented with some tasty homemade desserts and large choice of both Slovene and foreign wines, as well as a sophisticated selection of spirits (aged rums, cognacs and whiskeys) and cigars for after dinner. A large garden and terrace in the back is open all year, and many people come here to enjoy a coffee, sweets or light snack.QC/D-5, Eipprova 1a, tel. +386 (0)5 992 23 08, info@kulinarika-manna. si, www.kulinarika-manna.si. Open Mon, Tue, Wed 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 24:00. Holidays 08:00-22:00. PTJA6UG� BS

Whatever the weather, Ljubljana is choc-full of restaurants to suit any and all tastes, photo by Druh Scoff/Flickr

Slovenian Aroma Located in the city’s oldest house, dating from 1528, this newly opened restaurant has already become a popular choice for visitors to Ljubljana. Aroma has a diverse menu offering traditional Slovene dishes as well as almost anything else you might fancy - from steaks and pizzas to salads and desserts - as well as a good selection of quality Slovene wines. Breakfast specials look good too. Almost as hard as choosing what to order is deciding whether to sit inside under the beautiful vaulted ceilings or outside in prime position beside the Ljubljanica river.QD-3, Ribji Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)31 30 70 30, www.aroma-ljubljana.si.

Open 08:00 - 24:00. PJABW Druga Violina Druga violina specialises in good locally grown produce, a simple short menu of Slovene classics and a top location in the city’s old town, but there’s a twist in the tale with the ‘other violin’ (as the English translation of the name goes). It’s actually a project for people with disabilities, who produce much of the food on a farmland near Ljubljana and also work as waiting staff in the restaurant itself. Come and see what it’s all about, while enjoying one of the fresh local dishes either in the rustic dining room or on the delightful cobbled pavement outside, voted Best Restaurant Summer Terrace 2014 by In Your Pocket readers.QD-4, Stari trg 21, tel. +386 (0)82 05 25 06, druga.violina@center-db.si.

Open 07:00 - 24:00. PJAUBW 16 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Gostilna Gorjanc With over two centuries of tradition (it was officially opened for business in 1813), Gorjanc is one of the longest running traditional Slovenian restaurants around Ljubljana, but at the same time it’s also one of the newest, as it underwent extensive restoration and modernisation at the same time the G Design Hotel was built next door.

Along with the standard hearty Slovenian fare, such as blood sausages and sauerkraut with pork fat cracklings, the menu makes room for various refined fish, pastas, salads and other gourmet dishes. On weekdays there are lunch specials on offer that can be seen in advance on its website.QH-5, Tržaška 330, tel. +386 (0)1 423 11 11, info@gdesignhotel.si, www.gdesignhotel.si. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. PTALW

Jelen Located in Šiška some 5km from the city centre, this guest house and restaurant has been serving locals and tourists alike since 1878. There’s a full menu of traditional Slovene dishes as well as an assortment of tasty Balkan-style grilled meats and pizzas from a wood-fired oven. Upstairs there are five fully equipped modern rooms, which are convenient if you’ve got an early morning flight to catch or have just eaten (or drunk) too much to make it very far from the table.QJ-2, Celovška 462, tel. +386 (0)1 5161 545, info@ pension-jelen.eu, www.pension-jelen.eu. Open 07:00 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. PTAUBSW

GOSTILNICA Rimska XXI

With its low arched ceilings, moody red walls and touch of rustic furnishings this homey low-key restaurant has already become one of our favourite places to come when we’re in the mood for traditional Slovene cuisine it a great setting. Fresh homemade dishes of all sorts are are the speciality here, including deer, fish and wood-baked meats, and the menu changes daily depending on the season and whims of the head chef. Even the beer, juice and brandy is homemade, and there’s also an excellent selection of Slovene wines.QB-4, Rimska 21, tel. +386 (0)1 256 56 54, gostilnica.xxi@gmail.com, www.r-g.si/xxi. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. PT� JA6IB

Gostilna Pod Vrbo This traditional Slovenian gostilna is located in one of Ljubljana’s oldest neighbourhoods, just metres from the former home of famed architect Jože Plečnik. On sunny days the name Pod Vrbo (under the willows) takes on a literal meaning with tables out in the garden, while in winter you can cosy up beside the fire. The kitchen turns out excellent Slovenian and Mediterranean dishes - some served in traditional copper pots and earthenware bowls - whilst the daily menus and seasonal specials, like homemade chestnut gnocchi with porcini mushrooms, are a great value.

QZiherlova 36, tel. +386 (0)1 280 88 92/+386 (0)41 712 806, www.podvrbo.si. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 22:00, Sun open by prior arrangement. BK ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

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December 2014 - January 2015 17

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Restaurants

gourmet street food away.QL-3, Bezenškova 11, tel. +386 (0)1 544 61 41, www. mesarstvo-krusic.si. Open Mon-Wed 08:00-16:00, ThuFri 08:00-22:00. Closed Sat-Sun and holidays. LS

Kratochwill Here at Ljubljana In Your Pocket, we won’t even attempt to deny that we are beer lovers. How can we fail to love, in that case, a gostilna featuring an award-winning brewery with 30 years of history and a Czech brewmeister at the helm? Kratochwill, with three locations throughout town, produce an excellent variety of beers that perfectly compliment that excellent traditional food on offer. The Venison Goulash comes highly recommended, and we truly can’t back that recommendation up enough. All this comes at a more than affordable price, with half a litre of their beer coming in at less than €3. We couldn’t ask for more.QM-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. +386 (0)40 67 90 65, btckratochwill@gmail.com, www.kratochwill.si. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. ALBKW Kuhinja Krušič Aside from the Euro, nothing has stirred up more disagreement amongst Europeans in recent years than horse meat - Slovenia being one of the countries where people largely have no problem with horses finding their way onto kitchen tables. Like-minded visitors in Ljubljana will thus surely want to add the family-run Krušič to their itinerary. Operating a butchery for over a century, it’s one of the country’s top suppliers of horse meat, which also dominates the menu in various different forms at the restaurant on the same premises. Various appetisers, stews, cured meats and of course steaks from horse are on offer here, all of which can be enjoyed in the charming little dining room or taken 18 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Vander Restaurant More than a hotel restaurant, Vander Urbani is a top destination for exquisite dining in Ljubljana’s old town. Head chef Benjemin Launay adds a modern touch to traditional Slovenian favourites, with dishes such as štruklji (dough rolls with a variety of fillings), jota (a thick, hearty stew) and žlikrofi (dumplings) undergoing 21st century transformations that result in some truly delectable (and beautifully presented) cuisine. The so-called ‘deep dish’ lunch menu changes weekly, while the à la carte dinner menu is seasonal with only the freshest ingredients sourced from local markets, farmers and forests. We also like to stop by for breakfast when we get the chance, as the international atmosphere gives us the feeling of being on holiday.QD-4, Krojaška 6-8, tel. +386 (0)1 200 9000, info@ vanderhotel.com, vanderhotel.com. Open Mon-Sat 07:0011:00 (breakfast), 12:00-15:00 (lunch), 19:00-23:00 (dinner).

PJAEW Vodnikov Hram Named after Valentin Vodnik, who’s widely regarded as one of the first Slovene poets and journalists and also lends his name to the adjacent square, this is one of the better known places to sample traditional Slovenian cuisine in Ljubljana.

Dining under its vaulted brick ceilings is a recommended experience, as is grabbing a coffee or ice cream on the terrace while you’re waiting for the nearby funicular railway to ferry you up to the castle.QD/E-3, Vodnikov Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)12 34 52 60, vodnikov.hram@gmail.com, www. vodnikov-hram.si. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

PTAULGSW

Sample traditional Slovene cuisine in the heart of the old town at Vodnikov Hram

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Asian

Balkan

Shambala Not only does Shambala’s kitchen turn out some of the best (and spiciest) Asian cuisine in Slovenia, but the tranquil, almost meditative, ambience of the place allows you to enjoy your meal in a state of perfect relaxation - with some of the best service in town thrown in as an added benefit. During the warmer months, diners can also take advantage of the pleasant little garden that is tucked away in one of the buildings inner courtyards. Situated down a narrow alleyway off Breg, this hidden gem is definitely worth finding.QC-4, Križevniška 12, tel. +386 (0)1 426 30 14/+386 (0)31 843 833, info@shambala.si, www. shambala.si. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PT� JAGBK

Gostilna Čad When you ask locals to name their favourite Balkan restaurant in Ljubljana, Čad is one of the most frequently heard answers. Situated by Rožnik Hill around corner from Tivoli Park, it’s also the longest-running restaurant of its kind in town, and guests can dine in the shady garden surrounded by nature or in the rustic homey interior. Specialising in spit and grilled dishes, the beefsteaks, grilled peppers and raznjici skewers all come highly recommended.QJ-3, Cesta Na Rožnik 18, tel. +386 (0)1 251 34 46, info@gostilnacad.si, www.gostilna-cad.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. PT� JAUILEGBXSW

Sushimama The first - and for a long time only - Japanese restaurant in Slovenia, the small and intimate Sushimama’s interesting little touches beyond the actual food include a subscription to Wallpaper magazine and the brave act of putting the head Japanese sushi chef Hiroki Ishikawa on display as he works in the restaurant. The extensive menu features every Japanese favourite from soups to noodle soups, a number of delicate rice- and noodle-based dishes to of course the sushi itself. Complimented by an extensive list of cocktails and wines, the restaurant is marking its territory as the first and finest of its kind.QC/D-3, Wolfova 12, tel. +386 (0)40 70 20 70, www.sushimama.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJARGBXS Tokyo Piknik Despite what the name may suggest, Tokyo Piknik offers a whole range of Asian cuisine as well as more recognisable Western dishes. With plenty of outdoor seating by the river, it represents another excellent option for a casual afternoon lunch or an atmospheric evening meal, another string to Ljubljana’s growing bow of Asian food. It also happens to be the only real ramen bar in Slovenia, and all the noodles you will gorge on are completely hand-made. Regardless of the time of day, the desserts are wonderful, both the taste and the aesthetics.QD-4, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 25, tel. +386 (0)30 60 88 08, romeo.plus@siol.net, www.tokyopiknik. com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. JABK facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Relaxing ambience at Shambala

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Restaurants

Restaurants which turns out a dizzying array of mouth-watering Latin American dishes including some of the best steaks in Ljubljana. There’s also an excellent wine cellar with some 130 different Argentinean wines.QM-3, Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. +386 (0)1 523 36 30, info@ argentino.si, www.argentino.si. Open 09:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 09:00-24:00, Sun and holidays 12:00-17:00.

PTAR6UILGBXSW As Aperitivo The more casual dining wing of the legendary Gostilna As next door, Aperitivo is one of the top choices for business lunches, light snacks and afterwork drinks in the city centre. Inspired by the giant tree that still grows through the middle of it, the building was completely rebuilt in 2011, now consisting of a large airy space on the ground floor with a ‘floating’ terrace above, all of which is furnished with creations by some of the top names in design. For price-conscious diners there are gourmet daily set menus starting from only €8, while the excellent full à la carte menu focuses on Mediterranean cuisine and steaks.QC-3, Čopova 5a, Knafljev Prehod, tel. +386 (0)1 425 88 22, gostilna.as@siol.net, www.gostilnaas.si. Open 10:00 01:00. JAEBW Austria Trend The hotel is undeniably focused on the business traveller and this, their four-part restaurant and lounge follows in the same spirit. The stylish lounge is found just as you enter with full coffee and spirits offerings. Inside the

Taverna Tatjana is one of the most adorable restaurants in town

Gostilna Vrbinc Part of the cosy Alohotel resort, the Vrbinc restaurant is renowned for its grilled meat dishes and excellent Balkan cuisine. Summer is the time for the best of Balkan, and Vrbinc has a purpose built area at the front of the building for roasting pork and lamb over an open fire, to be enjoyed in their laid back dining room or lively conservatory. Guests of the hotel receive their complimentary freshly cooked breakfast here in the mornings.QL-6, Peruzzijeva 105, tel. +386 (0)8 205 82 50/+386 (0)40 62 18 62, info@alo-hotel.si, www. alo-accommodation-ljubljana.si. Open 10:30 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. LBK

Fish Taverna Tatjana Dining at this impossibly quaint and homey house tucked away on Gornji Trg is akin going over to your aunt’s for dinner - if only your aunt were able to prepare exquisite Dalmatian dishes and lived in a house decorated to resemble the luxurious living quarters on an old wooden sailing ship.

The tables are arranged haphazardly to take advantage of the various little nooks that provide for a more intimate meal, and there’s just the right amount of wear and tear that a place like this needs to feel authentic.QD-5, Gornji Trg 38, tel. +386 (0)1 421 00 87/+386 (0)41 707 900, taverna. labe@gmail.com, www.taverna-tatjana.si. Open 17:00 24:00. Closed Sun. PTJA6UGBSW 20 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Around Ljubljana Gostilna Repnik Located in the village of Vrhpolje just a short walk outside of Kamnik, Gostilna Repnik is a special, special place.

This part of the world is famed for hospitality, and Repnik stands out as a venue taking this to new heights. The staff are simply beyond excellent, welcoming and passionate about the food they serve without being overbearing.

And the food? Wow. The focus is on traditional Slovene fare in the most genuine of ways, complete with a fine selection of wines to compliment every meal. It has perfected the feel of a family inn in the classiest manner, juxtaposing a formal atmosphere with the comforts of home perfectly. By the way, they also provide romantic horse and carriage rides around the area after your meal.

QVrhpolje 186, Kamnik, tel. +386 (0)1 839 12 93, info@ gostilna-repnik.si, www.gostilna-repnik.si. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. restaurant is divided into three parts which range from wide open bistro style to more formal intimate settings.

The food is a mix of continental fare with some Slovenian flourishes, and the meals are inexpensive enough that your company’s expense account won’t feel a thing.QL1, Dunajska 154, tel. +386 (0)1 588 25 00, ljubljana@ austria-trend.at, www.austria-trend.at. Open 10:00 23:00. POTAULEGDSW

Indian Namasté Set along the beautifully redeveloped Breg riverside walk in the old town, Namasté is the longest running Indian restaurant in all of Slovenia, and offers one of Ljubljana’s most romantic dining experiences of any flavour - with soft yellow hued lighting, hand-painted walls and a relaxed cosy atmosphere. The house specialties are dishes from the Rajastan and Punjab regions, which are prepared individually with spices directly imported from the subcontinent and can be ordered mild to extra hot. Sometimes we like to stop by just to savour a cup of spicy masala chai.QC/D-4, Breg 8, tel. +386 (0)14 25 01 59, fax +386 (0)1 236 20 27, info@restavracija-namaste.si, www.restavracijanamaste.si. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.

PTJA6UGBXS

International Argentino The journey out to BTC is well worth the effort, for Argentino really needs to be experienced to be believed.

Huge and based on a classic Argentinean hacienda on two levels with further seating outside, the interior designer had a great time thinking this one up. Featuring vast paintings, enormous mirrors, video projectors, a fabulous bar and an even lovelier open kitchen, ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

One of a kind! 120 years of tradition 120 years or premium quality ...........................................................

Opening time- Every day 11:00-23:00 phone +386 (0)1 251 34 46 www.gostilna-cad.si

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December 2014 - January 2015 21

Restaurants

Restaurants

Bar Bistro Platana Kongresni trg 7 + 386 (0)1 251 35 97 Great location and Ljubljana traditional food Gostilna As One of Slovenia’s first truly world class restaurants when it opened its doors in the centre of Ljubljana more than a quarter century ago, in the years since it hasn’t missed a beat, still serving some of the very best Mediterraneaninspired cuisine in the city. For us the true standouts on the menu are the fantastic seafood specialities (both starters and main courses), but you also can’t go wrong with the steaks, grilled to order on an open-fire. When in doubt, you can rely on the friendly and professional staff for recommendations, as well as guidance with the equally superb wine list. A must for lovers of extravagant dining!QC-3, Čopova 5a (Knafljev Prehod), tel. +386 (0)1 425 88 22, gostilna.as@siol.net, www.gostilnaas. si. Open 12:00 - 01:00. PJAGB Bistro Platana Adjoined to the bar of the same name, Bistro Platana has an unbeatable location on Kongresni trg and some quality food to boot. A varied menu is on offer, with pastas, meat and fish dishes on offer among much more. We’re particularly fond of their collection of stuffed squid, which was new for us! The Kosilo Ljubljana (Lunch Ljubljana) offer is the real winner however, four courses of traditional Ljubljana food with a glass of Slovenian wine thrown in.QC-4, Kongresni trg 7, tel. +386 (0)1 251 35 97, mirjam.jurca@ gmail.com. Open 06:00 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. JABK

The floating garden terrace at Gostilna As has to be experienced to be believed 22 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Café Romeo Red leather seating with some very strange lighting indeed and the pinkest walls you ever did see, makes Romeo easy to spot along the narrow cobbled streets of the old town. A great place for good value Mexican and fusion food for all the family during lunchtime or, later on, for a buzzy little cocktail adventure with the great and the good of the city. They also happen to make some of the best crepes in town.QD-4, Stari Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)1 426 90 11, romeo.plus@siol.net, www.caferomeo.si. Open 10:00 - 01:00. PJA6UGBXSW Fany & Mary Fany & Mary have a name and logo that hints at something über trendy, in fact it’s much more a down to earth family friendly type of place with good service, fair prices and generous portions you won’t hear us complaining about.

Occupying prime promenade real estate in front of Mesarski Most (Butcher’s bridge) it is a great outdoor dining spot whilst inside is a cosier affair. Fany & Mary’s menu features a range of international classics including pizzas, salads and some very tasty burgers, which pair perfectly with the fine selection of beers on offer.QPetkovškova Nabrežje 19, tel. +386 (0)8 383 89 26. Open 08:00 23:45. TJA6B

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433 13 58/+386 (0)1 474 72 19, janez.bratovz@siol. net, www.jb-slo.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 23:00. Closed Sun. PJA Le Petit Restaurant Discovered by following the gorgeous spiral staircase inside the Parisian-style café of the same name, Le Petit’s restaurant eschews the cosmopolitan French capital in favour of the luxury and sophistication of the Cote d’Azur with predictably glamorous results. A diverse range of cuisine is on the menu, with extra attention paid to the aesthetics. It has been said that we eat with our eyes, and boy is this true in the case of Le Petit.QC-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 4, tel. +386 (0)1 251 25 75, info@lepetit.si, www.lepetit.si. Open 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Holidays closed. PJAGW

Hotel Cubo Restaurant For fine modern dining right in the heart of the city centre, look no further than the ground floor of Hotel Cubo. Just steps away from some of Ljubljana’s top cultural venues (Cankarjev Dom, Drama Theatre and the Slovenian Philharmonic) Cubo is a popular choice for a pre- or post-performance dinner. The tranquil interior and professional service also makes it a common destination for important business lunches, while gourmet cuisine is creatively prepared with the freshest ingredients, and complimented by an exquisite wine list. Free kerbside valet service and shuttles for groups of four or more guests are added bonuses.QC-4, Slovenska 15, tel. +386 (0)1 425 60 30, www.hotelcubo.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PJALW JB Firmly entrenched as one of the best restaurants in town, this fine dining experience comes courtesy of founder and head chef Janez Bratovž (hence the name). Located in one of Jože Plečnik’s more imposing secessioniststyle buildings, JB attracts a mix of well-to-do locals and visiting businessmen - guaranteeing you the chance to eavesdrop on conversations in a variety of languages.

The menu is comprised entirely of seasonal specialities and changes daily, with exotic offerings such as bear meat appearing from time to time. The only downside is the price, easily topping €50 per person for a proper meal with wine.QD-1, Miklošičeva 17, tel. +386 (0)1 facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

December 2014 - January 2015 23

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Restaurants

Promenada

Smrekarjev Hram Another of Ljubljana’s upscale eateries, Smrekarjev Hram features a wide menu and a long wine list. Make sure you leave room for a main and a dessert, where you can select from a range of fish or meat dishes such as grilled sea bass or beef in goose liver sauce, finishing off with raspberry pie or baked fig with vanilla ice-cream. The elegant interior of Smrekarjev Hram is offset by the funky multi-colored straw sculptures which add a touch of fun to somewhere with more than a touch of class. It also has excellent daily lunch specials on offer, with soup from €3 and lunches starting from €6.50.QD-3, Nazorjeva 2, tel. +386 (0)1 308 1907, smrekarjev.hram@union-hotels.eu, www.smrekarjevhram.si. Open 12:00 - 23:00. PT� JA6ULEGBSW

restaurant & pizzerija

www.restavracija-promenada.si

Authentic grilled dishes, Pizzas from wood-fired oven, Pasta & Salads, A large selection of fine Slovenian wines reservations: +386 8 383 10 82 / +386 40 716 476

Marley & Me Acres of stripped pine, friendly professional service and one of the best kitchen smells in the city, this intimate bistrotype restaurant comes highly recommended. Standouts from the small yet varied menu include the large and tasty salads, delicious pastas, traditional Slovenian food and some truly memorable meat and fish dishes. Be warned though, the place is immensely popular, and waiting for a table during the day is a common occurrence.QD-4, Stari Trg 9, tel. +386 (0)8 380 66 10/+386 (0)40 564 188, info@ marleyandme.si, www.marleyandme.si. Open 11:00 23:00. (€3-22). PJA6UGBXSW Maxim In the heart of the city centre this modern, business-orientated restaurant provides a fine menu of dishes including duck breast with mashed potatoes, soups, seafood, and a galaxy of fabulous puddings. There’s a huge wine list too, and a nice terraced area complete with water features for quality outdoor summer dining. Popular with professional locals and foreigners alike.QC-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. +386 (0)51 28 53 35, www.maxi.si. Open Mon-Fri 12:00-23:00 , and Sat by prior agreement. Closed Sun. PJALGBS Plato Located right in the centre of town next to one of Ljubljana’s most recognisable modern buildings - a twisting white office tower that takes some interesting architectural liberties - this restaurant is something of an oasis above the bustling square below. The lunch-time only menu is international 24 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Petkovškovo nabrežje 9, Ljubljana / open 12:00 - 24:00

with a focus on light and healthy Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and can change daily depending on what is in season or just especially fresh that day at local markets. If you’re not too keen on the day’s set menus you can also order à la carte.QC-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 80, plato@ siol.net, plato.si. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sun. PTJAGBXSW Plaza Hotel Restaurant The hotel restaurant at the magnificent towering Plaza Hotel in BTC is an expectedly resplendent affair, befitting of its four-star home and largely business clientele. The menu is short and focussed, ensuring freshness while also offering enough variety to satisfy most tastes. Dishes include Slovene specialities (such as Idrija’s famed žlikrofi and various homemade cured meats), as well as international standards.QM-3, Bratislava 8, tel. +386 (0)1 243 00 00, info@plazahotel.si, www.plazahotel. si. Open for dinner 19:00-22:00. PALW Promenada Just steps from Prešeren Square, Promenada restaurant (and the café of the same name next-door) occupies a prime riverside location with great drinking and eating options. The menu features a fine selection of Slovenian wines complemented by spiced Balkan grills, hearty Slovenian fare and delicate seafood dishes, while the restaurant’s wood-fired oven doesn’t just provide a cosy atmosphere, from it emerge some very tasty pizzas.QD-4, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 9, tel. +386 (0)8 383 10 82, info@restavracija-promenada.si, www.restavracijapromenada.si. Open 12:00 - 24:00. JABK ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Stara Mačka Ljubljana’s original steakhouse has occupied some prime real estate along the Ljubljanica river just steps from Prešeren Square for longer than we can remember. The mouthwatering steaks come in various different sizes and cuts, and are complimented with equally well-prepared side dishes. They also offer lighter fare such as seafood dishes and some incredible salads, while the outside terrace is a popular spot to linger over cocktails during the warmer months of the year.

In the autumn and winter the interior dining space offers a cosy retreat from the elements.QD-3/4, Krojaška 8, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 49, www.staramacka.si. Open 09:00 03:00. PJA6UEGBW Štern The sprawling country-style restaurant located within the premises of the Ljubljana Resort in the north of the city frequently hosts celebrations, reunions and other such large jovial gatherings. Another option for groups in search of fresh air is arranging a picnic in advance, which includes food, drinks and use of the resorts facilities. The menu is focussed primarily on grilled and fried meat dishes with healthy heaps of side orders, but the fish is also excellent - it is located next to the Sava River after all. Try to visit on Saturday nights, when there are themed culinary nights with live music and the doors stay open late.QL-1, Dunajska 270, tel. +386 (0)1 589 01 28/+386 (0)51 348 994, info@gpl.si, www.gostilna-stern.si. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

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ribji trg 6 1000 ljubljana

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Za Pumpo The creatively named Za Pumpo, which means ‘behind the gas station’, is located (surprisingly) behind a petrol station in the vicinity of several university faculties, and consistently tasty food, generous portions and low prices make it a popular choice with students and other locals alike. The huge menu has something for everyone including Balkan and Italian classics as well as hearty Slovene dishes, all complimented by a fine selection of quality Slovenia wines. There are also some good looking breakfast offerings.QJ-4, Tržaška 46, tel. +386 (0)41 777 772, zapumpo@siol.net. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. K

+ 386 0 31 764 063

TaBar_124x41.indd 1 facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

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tabar.si 23.01.14 2015 20:46 25 December 2014 - January

Restaurants OU LY

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AUTHENTIC BRAZILIAN CHURRACARIA RESTAURANT

LJUBLJANA • TRG MDB 1 www.brasil.si 00386 31 250 247 served straight from skewers - unlimited.

All you can eat self-service from salad,

Restaurants Latin American Casa Mulata Casa Mulata is like nothing you’ve seen before. The dream-turned-reality of three of the most infectiously passionate people we’ve met, the explosion of colour and joy as you enter immediately opens up each sense. Classic Brazilian (and Dominican) dishes are given new spins, with the shared platter options particularly good value.

An immense buffet (it must be seen to be believed) is on offer during the evening, and a lunch menu provides the perfect choices for a light afternoon eat at a good price.

The cocktails are perfect, and we don’t throw that word around lightly. With Latin music and dancing in tow, Casa Mulata is happiness within four walls.QD-3, Nazorjeva 4, tel. +386 (0)59 03 51 52, casamulata.slovenija@gmail. com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 16:30 01:00. Closed Sun. TJEBK Rodizio do Brasil Slovenia’s first Brazilian restaurant has quickly became one of Ljubljana’s top dining destinations. Modelled after Brazil’s traditional rodízio style steakhouse restaurants, patrons pay a fixed price for unlimited quantities of high quality grilled meat that is brought to the table on large skewers hot from the grill and accompanied by a huge selection of hot and cold dishes from the buffet (many of which are even vegetarian). For the full on Brazilian experience come on a night when there’s a dance performance and order a few extra rounds of Caipirinhas - just make sure to reserve a table in advance.QB-4, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 1, tel. +386 (0)40 316 341/+386 (0)31 250 247, info@brasil.si, www.brasil.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PJAEB

Mediterranean Allegria Tucked away in a courtyard behind a large terrace, this long-running Ljubljana eatery prepares exemplary Mediterranean cuisine, with an emphasis on dishes from Slovenia’s coastal regions. Seasonal specials are regularly offered, and the entire menu is naturally complimented by an excellent wine list. The steaks and homemade gnocchi

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are among our favourite dishes, but for something really unique try the Kraški risotto, which is made using Jamar sir (a cheese aged in a cave 70m underground).QC-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 74 02, info@allegria.si, www.allegria.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. PTJA6UEGBSW Azur A Ljubljana institution since 1994, Azur recently underwent some noticeable changes. Gone is the trademark bright orange façade, which has been replaced with more muted tones and reflects a generally improved level of quality and sophistication, and an expansive wine list, full multi-course daily lunch specials and a more professional staff all cater to the business crowd that keeps the placing buzzing during the day. Of course the awardwinning pizza has remained unchanged, and the location still makes for a convenient stop on a trip to or from the nearby zoo.QI-4, Cesta na Brdo 33, tel. +386 (0)1 423 24 23, azur@telemach.net, www.azur-tratorija.si.

Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€4.90-16.90).

PTAULGBS TaBar This ultra-modern new concept restaurant and bar combines Slovenian-style tapas with an excellent selection of wines from some of the country’s top producers. The menu has a strong Mediterranean influence, featuring everything from tender prosciutto and salami to roasted octopus and baked shrimp - all prepared with fresh local ingredients in an open kitchen, where you can watch the magic happen if you’re lucky enough to find an open seat. For those adverse to making decisions, there are three- and five-course tasting menus selected by the chef (our preferred option), while many patrons simply drop in to sample a few glasses of wine.QD-3, Ribji Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)31 764 063, info@tabar.si, www. tabar.si. Open Mon, Tue, Wed 10:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. PTJA6UG� BW

Middle Eastern Skuhna A truly unique culinary and social venture, Skuhna is the result of a joint-effort by two Slovene non-profits to help better integrate the country’s vibrant migrant community, while at the same time offering locals the opportunity to experience diverse foods and cultures from around the world. The project initially provided training for several full-time chefs, who now organise an ongoing programme of lunches, dinners, workshops and catering services. You can taste authentic cuisine from around the world for lunch everyday, while on Saturday evenings dinner is available, which is usually accompanied by music, presentations or other cultural elements. A full calendar of upcoming events and lots of other info can be found on the official website and Facebook page.QE-3, Trubarjeva 56, tel. +386 (0)41 339 978, skuhna@skuhna.si, www.skuhna.si.

Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PTJE facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

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Restaurants

Restaurants Yildiz Han Set on the ground floor a beautiful century-old villa just behind castle hill, the city’s only Turkish restaurant is just a few minutes’ walk from the old town, yet is still something of an undiscovered gem for most residents and tourists alike. Decorated in traditional Turkish style, with low tables and cushy seating, carpets on the walls and Ataturk above the door, as impressive as it all looks, the food still manages to exceed expectations. An already lengthy menu is supplemented with regional specialities on a regular basis, and complimented with a surprisingly good selection of Turkish wines. At the weekends diners are treated to bellydancing shows, and a resident fortune-teller is often on hand to read what your coffee grounds tell about your future. It’s always a good idea to book ahead.QE-5, Karlovška 19, tel. +386 (0)1 426 57 17, yildiz@siol.net, www.yildiz-han.com. Open 13:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PJAUGBS

Pizza Foculus Magnificently decorated once you’re through the slightly out of place automatic doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted ceilings and red, yellow and orange plates built into the roof of the large wood-fired pizza oven.

The large and busy Foculus specialises in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for vegetarians and eight with seafood.

The salads are also particularly good. The place can get rather hectic in the evenings, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait a few minutes for a table. It was also recently named Best Pizzeria in Ljubljana by IYP readers.QC-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 92 95, foculus@siol. net, www.picerija.net/foculus.htm. Open 11:00 - 24:00.

PTJAUGBS

Krojaška 8, 1000 Ljubljana t : 00386 / 1 25 11 749 e: info@staramacka.si www.staramacka.si

*** Odprto: pon-ned 09-03 ***

Parma A quirky little one, this. As well as a couple of ordinary tables, most dining here is done at the large bar from where the food is cooked and served. Find an empty stool, make your order and away you go. And while you’re waiting for your pizza to arrive, take a look at the large photographs on the wall of the construction of the area you’re eating in. Find it hidden away down the stairs and on the right at the southern end of Maxi Market.QB/C-4, Trg Republike 2, tel. +386 (0)1 426 82 22, foculus@siol. net, www.picerija.net/parma.htm. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. TJA6ULG� BXSW Pizzeria Osmica Located on the pedestrian street that runs parallel to Čopova, Osmica is essentially the pizza annex of the longer-running Allegria in the courtyard around the corner. The menu boasts over two dozen pizzas, and several choice of salad, lasagna and tortillas are also on offer in the comfortable rustic setting - think lots of wood and exposed stone with an open kitchen. We stop by for lunch or grab a pizza to go on the way home quite often, but if we were forced to choose a

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favourite it’d have to be the Tartufo, which comes heaped with prosciutto, salami, parmesan and of course truffle oil.

QC-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 58 72, info@osmica. si, www.osmica.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. PTJA6UBSW

Quick Eats AGA Kebapči It makes no claim to be other than what it is a fast food kebab shop providing visitors and locals with a taste of Turkey. But as far as we are concerned, there is nothing wrong with that, especially when the grilled pita bread comes stuffed with salad, sliced meat and spicy sauce. You can choose to eat at the small indoor counter or perch yourself on a stool at one of the half-dozen tables outside and you’ll feel full, content and ready to walk or dance your fast food fix off.QTrubarjeva 45, tel. +386 (0)1 430 21 05, aka.agac@gmail.com, www. agakebapci.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. (€1.50-4.50).

PA6S Burger King After being more or less raised on fast food in the US, we consider ourselves something of an expert on the subject, and as such we can say unequivocally that Burger King easily comes out ahead when compared to any other internationally known burger joint (not naming any names of course). QM-2, Šmartinska 152 (Citypark), tel. +386 (0)1 520 01 47. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

PTAULGS Cube Burger While the burgers aren’t actually shaped like cubes (the name refers to the structure of the makeshift building just outside Harvey Norman in BTC City), they are served up quick, fresh and hot from the grill, and definitely hold their own against Ljubljana’s ever-expanding field of burger joints. The menu has a selection of different burger options, such as chicken, roast beef, vegetarian and light (the latter served on a wholewheat bun with arugula), but for our money the Kraljevi (King) Burger can’t be beat.QLetališka 3d, tel. 041-513-514, www. cubeburger.si. Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. S Hood Burger Hood Burger was a revelation for Ljubljana’s fast food aficionados when it first began operating out of a simple food truck in the parking lot of the Interspar shopping centre in Vič back in 2012, quickly earning a reputation as one of the best burger joints in town and shortly thereafter moving into new premises nearby. The key to the American-style burgers’ popularity begins with the homemade potato buns and ends with a mandatory side-order of real French fries, while the mouthwatering images frequently posted to their Facebook page don’t hurt either.QJ-5, Jamova 105, tel. +386 (0)40 540 411.

Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. LBS facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

December 2014 - January 2015 29

Restaurants

Restaurants wiches and salads cost slightly more than the pre-packaged brands found in all the supermarkets, but are well-worth the premium.QC-2, Dalmatinova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 74, fslj@siol.net, www.pekarna-zak.si. Open 06:30 - 19:00, Sat 06:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. €0.50 - 3.00. JS

Vegetarian Bazilika Bistro A Mecca for lovers of fresh, healthy, organic foods, Bazilika is located in a beautiful high-ceilinged space in the city centre opposite the Presidential Palace and just around the corner from the Academy of Fine Arts. While countless proprietors claim to use only fresh locally-sourced ingredients, Bazilika actually posts photos of daily visits to local farmers, markets and gardens to their social media pages, assuring patrons that the various sandwiches, sweet and savoury pies, salads, soups, smoothies and other vegetarian and vegan-friendly treats that they turn out are as authentic as they are delectable. Daily 3-course lunch specials are written on the roll of brown recycled paper behind the counter.QB-4, Prešernova 15, tel. +386 (0)1 244 62 75, druzina@bazilika.si, www.bazilika.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun.JABSW

Vegan Bazilika Bistro proves that healthy organic food can be quite tasty

Hot Horse A true Ljubljana institution, a stop at Hot Horse is a must for all first-time and returning visitors. The legendary horseburger is not only an original Slovenian creation, but is also healthy, low in fat and rich in protein and iron, and the menu now boasts a wider variety than ever before, including wraps, steaks and hot dogs, all of which come with your choice of toppings and condiments. Hot Horse was also twice selected by our readers as the Best Fast Food restaurant in Ljubjana. Visit their large modern kiosk near the arena in Tivoli Park, or their other outlets in BTC and Rudnik near Rutar.QB-2, Tivoli Park, tel. +386 (0)1 521 14 27, master@hot-horse.si, www.hot-horse.si. Open 09:00 - 06:00. J6UBXS Klobasarna It’s not often you find a restaurant where the menu consists largely of one item, but when the famed Kranjska Klobasa is the dish in question then that’s really all you

need. Taking its name from the city of Kranj, this hearty sausage was at the centre of so-called ‘klobasa wars’ between Slovenia and Austria (and later Croatia) over the rights to the EU-protected name. History and politics aside, this trendy takeaway opposite the Cathedral is the best place to taste what all the ado is about. They also serve the traditional Slovene dishes jota and ričet, hearty stews that go great with the famed sausage.QD-3, CirilMetodov 15, tel. +386 (0)51 605 017, klobasarna@gmail. com, www.klobasarna.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. JS Surf’n’Fries We recently began noticing people carrying around boxes of fries (or chips as we would say) in the city centre, and it turns out that this place is the culprit. We’re still not sure where the ‘surf’ part of the name comes in (as seafood is not on the menu), but they do offer heaping portions of fries prepare in a variety of ways and accompanied by a selection of sauces, as well as some deep fried chicken dishes to satisfy the nonvegetarians. Open late, because everything fried tastes better after a night of drinking.QC-3, Plečnikov Trg. Open 06:00 04:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Žak Located under the hulking Ajdovščina building just off a busy crossroads, this French-style bakery whips up tasty snacks that, judging by the constant lines, tempt a fair number of workers from the surrounding offices to extend their smoke breaks.

Their freshly-prepared viennoiseries, gourmet bread, sand-

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Bobenček The shortest of walks from Prešeren square on the street called Trubarjeva, Bobenček is a 100% vegan takeout with an ever-increasing menu that can satisfy even the most vegan-sceptic of people, all at more than affordable prices.

The smoothies are also highly recommended, and anyone unsure what to go for will find help at hand from the English-speaking staff. Perfect for take away, there is a small amount of seating inside to enjoy the splendid vegan soups.

QD-3, Trubarjeva 17, tel. +386 (0)1 432 12 83. Open 07:30 - 22:00, Sat 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:30. JS

World Cuisine The 5 Kitchen & Bar Found just a few steps from the Central Market and Dragon Bridge, The 5 is unlike any other restaurant in Ljubljana. The concept behind the place is to bring the best tastes from five continents to the same kitchen (hence the name), and the food, atmosphere and service are all roundly excellent.

The menu is limited to a handful of exquisitely prepared and presented seasonal dishes, with daily offers displayed on the chalkboard above the bar. And speaking of the bar, the unique house cocktails all come highly recommended.

QE-4, Streliška 22, tel. +386 (0)59 050 133, social@the5. si, the5.kitchen. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€.

JAK

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December 2014 - January 2015 31

Cafés

Cafés

Caffe Promenada Having a drink along the banks of the Ljubljanica is a quintessential Ljubljana experience, and one of the best spots for it is at Café Promenada just across the river from the central market. Sitting at Promenada represents the city’s laid back lifestyle at its best - relax over a morning coffee or enjoy a glass of wine in the evening while watching the river and pedestrians flow by.QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 9, tel. +386 (0)8 383 10 82. Open 6:00 - 23:45. PJBKW It might get dark earlier at this time of year, but Ljubljana’s streets are still tailor-made for coffee drinking and people-watching

Bar Platana Occupying some prime real estate on Kongresni Trg, Platana offer everything you would expect from a classy bar and bistro in the centre of town. Superb coffee, freshlysqueezed juices and a variety of a wines and champagnes are on offer among other things, but it really is the shaded outdoor seating that is the big pull. We can’t think of a better place to sit and watch the beautiful people stroll by on an afternoon. A variety of breakfasts, snacks, sandwiches and cigars are also available.QC-4, Kongresni trg 7, tel. +386 (0)1 251 35 97, mirjam.jurca@gmail.com. Open 06:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. PJB Bazilika Shop & Cafe Right next to the courthouse and in one the busiest areas of Ljubljana, this café is one of the closest things you’ll find to an oasis in the city. As soon as you enter, you feel how you leave the bustle and noise of the city behind and are welcomed by very soothing music and décor. A great place to come and study, use your laptop or just surf the net. Try the excellent coffee and sandwiches. Great service too.QD-2, Miklošičeva 22, tel. +386 (0)41 530 539, druzina@bazilika.si, www.bazilika.si. Open 07:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PJSW

back chocolate brown interior is a great place to chill out with a mouthwatering slice of gourmet cake or freshly prepared fruit smoothie. One of our, and seemingly everyone else’s, favourites.QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 3, tel. +386 (0)1 430 17 71, info@cacao.si, www.cacao.si.

Open 08:00 - 22:00. Summertime 08:00 - 00:00. PT� JA6UGBSW Café Plato A stylish café offering a wide selection of great ice creams, cakes and tiny tarts in a unique glass-walled space right in the centre of town, its outdoor seating area is a fine place for some people watching on a sunny afternoon. There’s also a restaurant upstairs, so if you’re feeling like a bit more than a snack you may want to inquire about what’s on offer that day.QC-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 80, plato@siol.net, plato. si. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€2-3).

PTJA6GBKSW

Kapuciner Sitting alone on the south side of Kongresni Trg, Kapuciner is a relaxing spot to grab a drink especially when the sun is shining down on the large promenade. This sleek all day café and bar satisfies caffeine cravings all day long, whilst they also have a selection of tasty sweet treats. Kapuciner’s drinks list is better than most around town with some fine local wines and a few good beers to choose from.QC-4, Kongresni Trg 15, tel. +386 (0)83 815 604, kapuciner@ markov.si, www.kapuciner.si. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. JBS Kavarna Rog Kavarna Rog is one of our favourite cafés around - and not only because it’s a 30-second walk from our flat. Located along the Ljubljanica below the old Rog bicycle factory, the café is one of the few places in town where you can find a proper breakfast, and the lengthy menu of gourmet soups, sandwiches, salads and desserts (not to mention wines) makes it a popular lunchtime stop. It stays open late as well, and the dark and moody modern interior is perhaps best suited for a drink than anything else.QF-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 67, tel. +386 (0)1 6200 260, info@kavarna-rog. si, www.kavarna-rog.si. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

Cacao Boasting an unbeatable location just steps from Ljubljana’s famed Prešernov Trg, Cacao is the city’s top destination for ice cream lovers - overwhelmingly voted as having the best ice cream in town in each and every In Your Pocket Best of Summertime competition to date. It’s large tree-shaded terrace along the banks of the Ljublajanica also gets top marks for atmosphere, while the laid32 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Flancat This trendy little café bar is the newest edition to the Petkovškovo promenade, one of Ljubljana’s favourite drinking spots. Flancat is not alone in offering a pleasant riverside setting with the castle as a backdrop, though it stands out from the crowd with a solid drinks list featuring quality Slovenian wines and good beers including draught Weihenstephaner - very tasty beer from the world’s oldest brewery. QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 23, flancat@siol. net. Open 08:00 - 23:00. PJB

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Nebotičnik Café After being shuttered for nearly a decade, the best views in the city are once again open to the public. Occupying the top floor of Ljubljana’s famed Nebotičnik (or Skyscraper) building - which was the highest residential structure in Europe when it opened in 1933 - the terrace’s 360 degree views from the Alps to the castle to the hills in the south are truly breathtaking, and the coffee, cocktails and homemade cakes are worth trying as well. This is a must see stop for all visitors.QC-3, Štefanova 1, tel. +386 (0)40 60 17 87, info@neboticnik.si, www.neboticnik. si. Open Sun-Wed 09:00-01:00, Thur-Sat 09:00-03:00.

PA6USW

The best coffee in Ljubljana :) fresh sendwiches, croissants, fresh cakes, selected wines

Coffeeshop Kapuciner Kongresni trg 15, Ljubljana www.kapuciner.si E-mail: kapuciner@markov.si www.facebook.com/kapuciner.kavarna

Open: mon. - sat. 7.00-24.00, sun. 8.00-22.00 December 2014 - January 2015 33

Cafés NaKavo With 10 cents from every cup of coffee sold going towards the Anina Zvezdica Foundation (Ana’s Little Star), we are fully behind this little stall on Prešeren Square. Opened at the beginning of 2014 with the help of SiMobil and providing coffee-to-go, Nakavo is a non-profit organisation doing its bit to help those in need. If that isn’t enough to convince you to pick up a cup, the coffee itself is also excellent. Delicious coffee with great ethics is the order of the day.

QD-3, Prešernov Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)41 66 64 63, nakavo. si. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:30 16:30. S

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Try our amazing Xmas gelato and traditional potica cake!

Coffee & Cakes Čokoladni Atelje Dobnik Adjoined to the wonderful chocolate shop of the same name, Čokoladnica Atelje Dobnik is a bright modern café with a great range of Lavazza coffees and teapigs tea.

What sets it apart from the rest however is the truly inspiring quality of the sweet stuff on offer. We all love chocolate, and Dobnik’s output truly is second to none. With over 20 years experience of perfecting the art of chocolate production as well as receiving the sign of Ljubljana quality in 2010, there is no better place for a sweet treat to compliment your morning coffee.QC-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. +386 (0)1 425 31 41, info@cokoladniatelje.si, www. cokoladniatelje.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun. PJUBW

A Slice of Culinary Heaven Daily fresh and with contemporary recipe, Cake Ljubljana is made from traditional Slovenian ingredients. Cake Ljubljana is one of the “Tastes of Ljubljana”- dishes typical for the capital of Slovenia.

www.facebook.com/TortaLjubljana 34 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Fetiche Patisserie Ice cream and winter might not go together hand-inhand, but hear us out. Ljubljana is full of good ice cream options, and Fetiche Patisserie on Cankarjevo nabrežje is without doubt one of the best. An impressively wide selection is enhanced by the dedication to natural and genuine flavour. You’ll find nothing less than 100 per cent fruit here. Fetiche also possesses a mouth-watering array of sweets that are as good as impossible to resist. Indulge yourself, there’s no such thing as a bad time for ice cream.

QD-4, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 25, tel. +386 (0)40 70 03 70, www.fetichepatisserie.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00.

Gelateria Romantika Whilst it might not seem like the most obvious of combinations, there is something incredibly romantic about gelato in the wintertime. At this centrally located gelateria, festive flavours will be available over December until 4th January.

Using only the freshest ingredients, surprising Christmascentric flavours of gelato that match perfectly with hot Belgian waffles is on offer. There are many more strings to Romantika’s bow, with festive liqueurs, hot chocolate, excellent coffee as well as authentic traditional Slovenian potica cake available, which is so good it’s just begging to be taken home.QDvorni trg 1, tel. +386 (0)40 97 85 66, info@gelateria-romantika.si, www.gelateria-romantika. si. Open 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 24:00. PTJS Torta Ljubljana This takeaway cake shop in the Plečnik Arcade has much more to it than meets the eye. To begin with its eponymous Ljubljana Cake is the only sweet we know of in town that comes with its own creation myth, which involves a fickle lord living in Ljubljana Castle, a beautiful daughter waiting to be wed, and a plucky local chef who concocts the perfect recipe. The retro-style cake has been recreated using only typical Slovenian ingredients (including gluten free 100% buckwheat flour) and can be purchased in several sizes, all of which come in custom designed reusable packaging. The cakes can now also be found at Kavarna SEM, Nebotičnik and Bar Kofi Plac at BTC.QD-3, AdamičLundrovo Nabrežje 1, tel. +386 (0)30 300 618/+386 (0)41 272 433, info@tortaljubljana.si. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Photo © Franci na Balanci

Nightlife Ljubljana likes to party hard, and party late.

Bars, pubs and restaurants stay open well into the early hours as locals and visitors alike simply forget to go home. Here’s our pick of nightlife on offer in Ljubljana. Enjoy!

Nightlife

Bars 13 The narrowness of the building could have been considered an issue, but the team behind Café 13 have remarkably turned it into a plus. Tiled floors, oak walls and seating carved into those very walls give the feeling of being in a much more spacious place than is true, and the display of sweets in the centre will convince even those without a sweet tooth. If this isn’t enough, the large terrace provides another option.QC-4, Trg Francoske Revolucije 5, tel. +386 (0)1 320 94 82. Open 07:30 - 01:00. PA6BW As Aperitivo Now housed in slick ultra-modern premises that have been the recipient of numerous design awards, this long-running lounge bar is almost as much of a Ljubljana institution as its namesake restaurant next door. A top destination for the business set, Aperitivo is definitely one of the city’s more glamorous settings in which to grab a drink, the whole place turning into a large open-air terrace during the warmer months. Live DJs keep the party going most nights, while the Italian head bartender prepares some masterful creations for thirsty patrons. Find it in a secluded courtyard just off of Prešernov Trg.QC-3, Čopova 5 (Knafljev Prehod), tel. +386 (0)1 425 88 22, gostilna.as@siol.net, www. gostilnaas.si. Open 10:00 - 01:00. J6UBXW Bi-Ko-Fe Situated on a sloping cobbled lane in Ljubljana’s old town, BiKoFe is something of a Mecca for hipsters, students, artists, designers, musicians and the like. The winner of an award for design, the interior was entirely renovated using recycled and refurbished furniture and materials, and we can honestly say that it’s one of the cosiest places to relax with a drink (or a coffee) in the city. Live DJs keep the place bumping on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights, and from time to time musical acts (some quite well-known) perform cover-free shows for the cool crowd. They also now offer light snacks, including some of the best sandwiches in LJ, which are made daily by a local Japanese woman.QC-4, Židovska Steza 2, tel. +386 (0)14 25 93 93, www.bikofe. com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. Holidays 18:00-01:00. PJA6UBXSW 36 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Nightlife

Centralna Postaja Centralna Postaja, aka ‘central station’, brings a bit of big city style to Ljubljana - with its trendy pared back décor and hip vibe you may feel like you’re in London or New York. Designed as an all-day hangout Centralna has affordable offerings from morning to late including all-youcan-eat breakfasts (only €2.50!) and international classics: pastas, pizzas and some of Ljubljana’s best burgers (or sliders actually). At night the place turns into a full-on lounge bar, with house DJs often providing the soundtrack.

QD-3, Trubarjeva 23, tel. +386 (0)41 889 882, www. centralnapostaja.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Thu-Sat 08:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. JABK Fétiche A dark and moody, space-age cocktail bar on two levels complete with everything a cocktail bar should possess.

Sit in the company of wannabe supermodels and young boys with their expensive trousers falling down and gaze in wonder at the vast model pictures, retro furniture and the obligatory huge mirror ball. The cocktail menu is perhaps the largest in town, and all are made using only premium spirits and fresh fruit. There’s outside seating near the river too, and a French style patisserie next door.

QD-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 25, tel. +386 (0)40 70 03 70, www.fetiche.si. Open 09:00 - 01:00. PJA6G� BXW Klub Daktari Sharing its name with the Swahili word for doctor, we’re not sure if there’s a connection, but the place always cures us of any bad mood we’re in. Located next to several other bars near the entrance to the funicular railway, Daktari reopened in 2012 after more than a year of renovations - a labour of love from the sociable owners, who are usually on hand chatting with customers. The bar exudes an old-time ambience and charm that is a rarity these days: restored antique furniture, shelves full of books, a player piano in the corner and a stage that is occasionally used for live music sets, jam sessions, theatre, cabaret and an eclectic mix of other cultural events.QD-3, Krekov Trg 7, tel. +386 (0)64 166 212, info@daktari.si, www.daktari. si. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PJAE� BX ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

One of our personal favourites, Daktari is about the cosiest bar in town, hosting frequent cultural events, featuring a chilled out terrace and even boasting the city’s coolest smoking chamber

Rollbar-Karting BTC Another reason to visit the huge BTC complex is this extraordinary place. Taking the gimmick of the race-car-theme-drinking-hole to its logical conclusion, this subterranean boozer not only comes complete with enough racing paraphernalia to start your very own F1 museum, it’s actually got a go-kart racing circuit. There are no drink-driving laws here, just a bunch of electric go-carts and a hangar-size space to wiggle them through. Not quite as tame as it sounds, these go-carts when running on full power have a top speed of 120km/h, restricted for obvious reasons here to a more sensible albeit still stupidly fast 65km/h.QM-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala 18), tel. +386 (0)1 585 25 70/+386 (0)51 603 333, info@ indoor-karting.com, www.indoor-karting.com. Open 07:30 - 23:00, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. AUEGBXW Žmauc Ask any tuned-in local to make a list of their favourite bars and they’re almost certain to put this place on the list.

Covered in quality graffiti outside and always featuring a huddle of interesting-looking individuals smoking suspiciously large cigarettes by the entrance, the exterior is but a mild prelude to what’s inside. A smallish L-shaped bar is packed day and night with more strange characters amidst an interior design scheme straight from the pages of a Manga comic.QB-4, Rimska 21, tel. +386 (0)1 251 03 24, zmauc@siol.net. Open 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PJA6GB

As Aperitivo is perfect for a business lunch, or an afterwork drink

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Clubs Cirkus Cirkus is one the of the more popular clubs in Ljubljana - with lots of themed nights, live DJs and photo albums posted to their Facebook page the morning after parties (ie beware of the man with camera if you don’t want your drunk face making the rounds on social media!). Located just at the edge of the city centre opposite the old tobacco factory, it’s easy walking distance from most central hotels and hostels, and usually attracts a youthful student crowd.QB-4, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 7, tel. +386 (0)51 631 631/+386 (0)41 777 747, info@cirkusklub.si, www.cirkusklub.si. Open 20:00 - 05:00.

Closed Mon, Sun. Admission is usually free before 23:00 and €5 after. Special events and performances can increase the price though. PJAG En Pub If you’d like to experience the best of Belgrade’s legendary party scene without the hassle of a ten-hour train ride south, then En Pub in Šiška is one of the best options for an all-night Balkan-style party in the Slovene capital. Friday nights feature live bands and DJs playing a mix of fun Balkan music and international hits, while Saturdays see Serbian bands and DJs come to town. Both nights just about guarantee a packed house dancing away until the place finally closes at six in the morning. For a totally different take on Ljubljana, En Pub simply has to be experienced to be believed.QH-1, Celovška 150, tel. +386 (0)1 514 11 27, info@enpub.si, www.enpub. si. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri 07:00 - 06:00, Sat 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PTA6UGBXW Klub K4 If you’re staying in a hotel in this part of town and your bed starts bouncing across the room in the middle of the night, the chances are the culprit can be found inside Klub K4. A very student-oriented club indeed, it’s hot and sweaty and the DJs play some of the weirdest, hardest stuff in the country. Brilliant stuff. Check out their Facebook page or website for detailed programme info.QB-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. +386 (0)40 212 292, info@klubk4.org, www.klubk4.org. Open 23:00 - 06:00, Wed 23:00 - 04:00, Thur 21:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PJAG December 2014 - January 2015 37

OLD TOWN

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Nightlife

Nightlife

Ljubljana’s most authentic Slovenian pub Vodnikova cesta 155

Mon - Wed: 07:00 - 24:00 Thu: 07:00 - 02:00 Fri: 07:00 - 05:00 Sat: 09:00 - 05:00 Sun: 10:00 - 24:00

Tel: +386 (0) 590 35115 E-mail: info@francinabalanci.si Facebook: Franci na balanci Orto Bar A combined bar and live music venue dedicated to the glorious and mostly unpretentious world of rock music, filled nightly with a well-behaved crowd in leather jackets etc, drinking the night away and taking advantage of one of the few regular live music venues in the city. The bar is worth visiting on its own. Long and thin, there’s a line of old turning ventilators along one wall, giving the place a futuristic, Mad Max feel.

QE-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 232 16 74, info@ortobar.com, www.orto-bar.com. Open 21:00 - 05:00, Tue, Wed 21:00 - 01:00, Thu 21:00 - 04:00. PALEGBX

Guinness Pub Enough Guinness mirrors to keep everyone in town high for a week, plenty of comfortable cubby holes and a splendid little summer courtyard on the small street behind the main university building. Draught beers include Guinness and Kilkenny, Tag from the popular Austrian/Slovene craft brewery Bevog. Friendly and different enough to be worthy of at least a little plaudits, put this one on your pubcrawl list for sure.QB-3, Gosposka 3, tel. +386 (0)1426 62 93, www.guinnesspub.net. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PJA6UGBX

Parlament Pub Knowing neither whether it’s a café or a bar, this peculiar oddity with its books on the shelves, shady characters and (you’ve guessed it) students is nonetheless a popular stop for the heavy drinking younger crowd. Known for cheap beer and cocktails (with three of the latter had for the price of two), and lively international parties almost every night, it’s a great place to both start or end an evening out. The entrance and terrace are at the back side of the building on Plečnikov Trg.QC-3, Šubičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 251 32 43. Open 06:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 24:00. PJA6UEGBXW Patrick’s Irish Pub Ljubljana’s quintessential Irish pub is popular with locals, expats and tourists alike, and over the years we’ve personally spent many a night entertaining visitors, watching sports on the big screen and generally drinking too much here. They’ve got (arguably) the largest selection of beer in town, with some 90 varieties to choose from, and often host events such as live Irish music concerts, pub quizzes and beer tastings. Find it down a small cobbled alleyway just off Trubarjeva Ulica.QD-3, Prečna 6, tel. +386 (0)1 230 17 68/+386(0) 41 581 333, info@irishpub-ljubljana.si, www. irishpub-ljubljana.si. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Mon, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PTJA6EGSW Sir William’s Pub An all together classier affair than most other pubs in town, Sir William’s clientele is largely a reflection of its

location in the city centre between the national courthouse and Radio Television Slovenia, as well as several business hotels. Boasting one of the largest beer selections in Slovenia, there are over 130 different varieties to choose from, and the country’s best craft beer, Human Fish, is always on tap. The atmosphere is generally warm and laid-back, with patrons chatting to the staff about beer or watching something on the big screen TV. Follow their Facebook page for info about beer tastings and other events.QD-2, Tavčarjeva 8a, tel. +386 (0)5 99 44 825, sirwilliamspub@gmail. com, sirwilliamspub.webs.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00.

PJABSW

Pubs Franci Na Balanci It is often claimed by tourists and travellers alike that they are seeking a genuine traditional atmosphere in the country they find themselves in. Many claim to offer this, but when it comes to Franci Na Balanci it almost goes without saying. The sort of old-fashioned interior that just can’t be faked sets the tone immediately, and it also has a great selection of beers (or coffee if you’d prefer, made by professionally-taught staff). At weekends the party lasts until long into the night, all the while maintaining a traditional edge. Franci Na Balanci is more than worth the journey out to Šiška, to say the least.QJ-2, Vodnikova cesta 155, tel. +386 (0)5 903 51 15, info@francinabalanci. si, www.francinabalanci.si. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 05:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.

PT6LEBKW 40 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

If you’d like to party well into the morning, En Pub in Šiška is one of your top choices

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December 2014 - January 2015 41

Nightlife

Nightlife Jazz Bars Sax Pub This is what happens when an unruly youth inherits his great aunt’s country cottage. This now legendary, graffitispattered nightspot wouldn’t last a week in New Orleans, but in Ljubljana there’s nothing of its kind to beat it. A fairly small bar features photographs of jazz greats on the walls and a clientele of people who appreciate what Charles Mingus once referred to as black classical music.

Most of the time the music is pre-recorded, but they do have the occasional live band in from time to time. Check their Facebook page to see what’s on.QB-4, Eipprova 7, tel. +386 (0)(0)51 804 450, saxpublj@gmail.com, www. saxhostelljubljana.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 22:00. JA6LEGBD

Billiards, Bowling, etc.

Wine Bars Bubbles Champagne Bar Okay, so the idea of a champagne bar conjures up images of richer than rich oligarchs schmoozing, but let the addition of the word ‘bubbles’ put you at ease. The former Vander Urbani has transformed into a quality champagne bar that will force you to rethink your preconceptions. Bubbles has a great selection of champagne, many available by the glass, as well as a large variety of Slovene wines and not to mention some excellent food.QD-4, Krojaška 6-8, tel. +386 (0)1 200 90 00, info@vanderhotel.com, www.vanderhotel. com. Open 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. Dvorni Bar This large L-shaped adventure is a pleasant café during the day and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night. There’s a swanky jazzy area at one end for more wine-oriented patrons, while the other side is a little more geared towards the restaurant crowd, with tapas and lunch specials on offer. With upwards of 100 varieties of wine in stock it’s a great place to sample local vintages if you don’t have time to trek out to one of Slovenia’s wine growing regions.QB3, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)1 251 12 57, info@dvornibar. net, www.dvornibar.net. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-15). PTJHA6UEX� BKSW 42 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Biljardna Hiša Ljubljana’s most popular billiards place is a few minutes walk north of the city centre in Bežigrad. Consisting of one large open space underneath exposed wood rafters the interior feels rather barn-like, which is pretty much exactly what we look for in a pool hall. There’s also a large glassenclosed self-service smoking area and a summer garden area in the front, while quality rock tunes will have you humming along between shots. You can expect at least a short wait for a table at the weekends, so don’t forget to get your name on the list.QC-1, Parmova 25, tel. +386 (0)12 36 20 12, biljardnahisa@gmail.com, www.biljardna-hisa.com.

Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. ALX Spider Bowling Club This 6-lane bowling alley may be the smallest in Ljubljana, but it’s also the only one located anywhere near the city centre, making it a convenient destination for a night out - or perhaps a long lunch break for true fans of the sport. Students get discounts on already reasonable prices, and there’s a large lounge area, billiards table and foosball. Can be a bit tricky to find if you’re not familiar with Tivoli Park, but the entrance is on the first floor of the oddly shaped concrete monstrosity just south of the tennis courts and east of the main parking lot.QB-1, Celovška 25, tel. +386 (0)59 012 800/+386 (0)31 637 588, www.bowling-spider.si. Open 14:0024:00, Wed 12:00-24:00, Sat 10:00-24:00, Sun 10:0022:00. PJ

Casinos Casino Kongo An African-themed gaming hall with electronic roulette and scores of slot machines. Once inside, soft drinks and food are on the house, though there are two African restaurants (plus the ‘Kanibal’ self-service buffet) on site too.QLjubljanska 65, Grosuplje, tel. +386 (0)1781 02 00, info@kongo-hc.com, www.kongo.si. POAULEGBKXW ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Dvorni Trg 2 +386 (0)1 251 12 57 http://www.dvornibar.net info@dvornibar.net Casino Lev Slot machines, gaming tables and some of the best-looking waitresses on the planet in the basement of the hotel of the same name.QB-2, Vošnjakova 1 (Hotel Lev), tel. +386 (0)1 430 42 23, info@casinolev.si, www.casinolev. com. Open 00:00 - 24:00. No admission fee. PO� JHAULEG Casino Rio A non-stop gambling saloon inside the Arena entertainment centre. Four electronic roulette tables and over 150 other gaming machines vie for your euros. Food and drinks are served, and there’s occasional entertainment too.QJ-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. +386 (0)1 520 56 50, info@ casino-rio.si, www.casino-rio.si. Open 24hrs. No admission. POAG

Gay & Lesbian K4 Roza On some Saturdays and Sundays, this popular gayfriendly club (pronounced ‘Kah Shteer-ee’ in Slovene) hosts gay and lesbian nights under its alternate personality, Roza Klub - which is also an independent political organisation and one of the driving forces behind the Gay and Lesbian Film Festival and Pride week.

See our full review of K4 under clubs in the Nightlife section.Q C-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. +386 (0)14 38 02 61, fax +386 (0)14 38 03 01. Open Tue & Sun from 22:00, Wed-Sat from 23:00. Mon closed.

around 20:00 till late.QF-1, Masarykova 24 (Metelkova), tel. +386 (0)14 30 35 35, kulturnicenterq@gmail.com, www.kulturnicenterq.org/en/.

Adult Entertainment Hard Core Club With a name like that you can’t help but smile and get in a taxi and head here. The concept is simple: outstanding erotic entertainment provided by prefessionals in a safe environment for groups of lads of all ages and backgrounds. Nobody pesters you to buy them extortionate ‘lady drinks’, there is always something worth watching on stage, and entrance is free. Drinks are reasonably priced - even the erotic ones - and the girls who perform here are on the whole of a far higher phwoar category then elsewhere.QG-3, Dolgi Most 4, tel. +386 (0)41 71 66 12, info@ hardcoreclub.si, www.hardcoreclub.si. Open 17:00 - 05:00, Fri 17:00 - 07:00, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PJAG Klub Slon The most centrally-located adult entertainment club in town in the basement of popular Hotel Slon, this is also the tamest . The small group of girls, who you’ll mostly find fully dressed, do a a few nightly topless cabaret shows. While lapdances and the like are not offered here, when the women are not dancing they are available for some personal interaction.QB-2, Slovenska 34, tel. +386 (0)1470 11 48, ecarte@siol.net, www.hotelslon.com.

Open 22:00 - 04:00. PYJAEGBXSW

Q Cultural Centre Officially opened on 24 April 2009, which was the 25th anniversary of the the gay rights movement in Slovenia, the centre has roots going all the way back to 1993. It’s a joint project of ŠKUC - one of Slovenia’s largest arts and cultural organisations, and a leading proponent of gay rights - and two long-running gay and lesbian clubs, Tiffany and Monokel, which are located on the same premises. The centre’s main focus is the promotion of gay and lesbian culture, and it hosts regular events such as literature readings, concerts, theatre performances, exhibitions, lectures, debates and workshops. Both clubs also host parties every Friday (and sometimes on Saturday) night from facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

December 2014 - January 2015 43

Sightseeing

Sightseeing top 10 sights Zmajski Most (Dragon Bridge) One of the most photographed sights in Ljubljana, Zmajski Most, or Dragon Bridge, is also one of our personal favourites, topped with four ferocious dragons.QE-3, Resljeva Cesta.

Kongresni Trg Completely renovated in 2011, Kongresni Trg is home to some impressive buildings, and also frequently hosts events.

The name is often used by locals to refer to both the square and the adjacent Zvezda Park.

Somehow the dragons of Dragon Bridge manage to become a little more daunting in wintertime

Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for visitors to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town to Ljubljana’s multitude of museums and galleries are more than worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary combination of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik’s to the historic atmosphere of the Old Town to the occasional blastto-the-past burst of retro-Yugoslav city planning all work together in harmony to create the most unique of cities.

Buildings National University Library (Narodna in Univerzitetna Knjižnica) Known to locals by its Slovene acronym NUK, the library was originally established by Empress Maria Theresa in 1774 and moved to its current Plečnik designed building in 1941. Aside from serving as one of the country’s central educational and cultural institutions - containing some 2.6 million volumes -it’s also considered one of the prolific architect’s most monumental works, and is a must see for visitors to Ljubljana. Highlights include the somewhat schizophrenic brick and stone façade, the colonnaded central staircase and the massive main reading room. A planned expansion on nearby Zoisova Cesta has been in the works for nearly 20 years, but has been plagued by a host of problems - most notably caused by the discovery of Roman ruins, which is a surprisingly common occurrence in and around the city.

QC-4, Turjaška 1, tel. +386 (0)1 200 11 88, info@nuk. uni-lj.si, www.nuk.uni-lj.si. Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. 44 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Cemeteries Žale Cemetery (Pokopališče Žale) Built on the site of a much earlier cemetery attached to the neighbouring (and still standing) Holy Cross Church, what’s arguably Plečnik’s Ljubljana masterpiece was completed in 1940. The grand arched entrance complete with stark white colonnades supposedly represents the gateway between the lands of the living and the dead. Between them and the cemetery itself are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels and monuments including the Žale funeral home. Architectural styles abound, reflecting Plečnik’s vision of equality among religions. The cemetery itself, once you get there, is a pleasure to behold and is worthy of a good hour’s stroll.QL/M2, Med Hmeljniki 2, tel. +386 (0)1420 17 00, info@zale.si, www.zale.si. Open 07:00 - 19:00.

Churches Cathedral (Stolnica Sv. Nikolaja) With its classic twin towers and trademark single, weather-worn green dome, the city’s cathedral, more properly known as St Nicholas’ Church, encapsulates everything that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too exciting at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer details reveals its hidden charm and beauty. Built on the site of a much earlier church, the cathedral’s main structure and appearance dates from the first half of the 18th century. Inside the Baroque masterpiece is a cavalcade of classic creams and golds, littered with extraordinarily detailed frescoes and possessing that calming feeling that only a great church can bring.QD-3, Dolničarjeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1234 26 70, lj-stolnica@rkc.si, lj-stolnica.rkc.si. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Križanke Consisting of several venues located inside a former monastery complex, the summer theatre is another Plečnik creation and one of the most atmospheric concert venues in the city.

Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski Grad) Definitely the most dominant sight in the city, in addition to its extremely photogenic appearance Ljubljana’s famed castle is home to a couple of excellent restaurants, exhibitions spaces and other venues. QD-4, Grajska Planota 1.

Metelkova Mesto F-1/2, Masarykova 24. Since squatters moved into these former army barracks in 1993, Metelkova has slowly grown into an established nightlife centre with various bars, clubs and arts spaces. QF-1/2 facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Prešernov Trg It’s no exaggeration to say that Prešeren Sqaure is not only the centre of Ljubljana, but truly the spiritual centre of the Slovene nation - and more practically the de facto meeting point in the city. QD-3, Prešeren Square.

River Boat Cruises Slowly meandering through the old town, the Ljubljanica river offers an interesting angle from which to take in the many sights, with a number of tourist boats obligingly plying its waters.

Tivoli Park Ljubljana’s central park, Tivoli offers countless paths, fields and play areas, as well as forest trails on Rožnik hill.

Facilities includes spor ts centres and a couple of museumsQA/B-2.

Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) Arguably Plečnik’s most famous work (though we would argue otherwise), the famed Triple Bridge connects Prešeren Square with the old town on the other side of the river.QD-3.

Tržnica Ljubljana’s large open-air central market is at its liveliest on Saturday mornings, when seemingly half of the city comes here to buy a week’s supply of fruit and vegetables directly from local farmers.

December 2014 - January 2015 45

Sightseeing Ljubljana castle

Perched on top of Castle Hill (Grajska planota) and dominating the city skyline to the south, Ljubljana’s magnificent castle stands on the site of several former defensive buildings in a hilly area of land stretching away to the south of the old town. The current ensemble of buildings originates from necessary 16th-century reconstruction work following the earthquake of 1511, with several later additions. Not unlike Kraków’s Wawel Castle in Poland, Ljubljana Castle has served as both a royal residence and a military barracks over the centuries.

The current main points of interest for the visitor are the Outlook Tower (Razgledni Stolp), built in the 19th century and raised a further 1.2m by the government in 1982. The tower’s Virtual Castle screens a 12-minute film translated in English, German, Italian, Spanish, French, Russian, Croatian and Slovene showing an interesting and informative history of the castle.

On the same floor find a small door that takes you to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron steps, each individually decorated with an image of the tower and the city’s dragon. A door at the top leads to a small viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with wonderful views of the city.

Underneath the tower and located down a small flight of stairs tucked away through a doorway in the corner of the courtyard is the diminutive St George’s Chapel (Kapela sv Jurija). The Chapel is one of the oldest parts of the Castle. By the order of Cesar’s document from 1489 it was dedicated to St. George, the patron saint of Ljubljana. It was renovated in Baroque style and in 1747 decorated with the coats-of-arms of over 60 rulers, including Herman and Ulrich of Celje, Henrik of Gorizia County, and Krištof Rauber, a bishop of Ljubljana.

A new and beautifully presented permanent Exhibition on Slovene History is now also open for visitors - see more info under Museums & Galleries.

The castle also has a small art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions, a café, restaurant and souvenir shop. It’s also a popular place for local weddings, and during the summer puts on concerts and, in July, hosts a popular outdoor cinema. To reach it, several small paths lead up from the old town, or take the funicular next to the Puppet Theatre and open market.QD-4, Grajska Planota 1, tel. +386 (0)1 306 42 93, info-center@ljubljanskigrad. si, www.ljubljanskigrad.si. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Full combined ticket €5 - 8, half combined ticket €3 - 6, guided tour €6 - 10. Special discounts for families.

46 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Sightseeing Franciscan Church (Frančiškanski Samostan) Built in an instantly recognisable, mildly swirly Baroque fashion, Ljubljana’s mid-16th-century Franciscan Church dominates Prešernov Trg like a big pink birthday cake. Part of a larger complex with an additional Franciscan monastery, if you’re lucky enough to find the doors unlocked expect a few treats inside including Robba’s 18th-century altar, some charming frescoes dating from 100 years or so later and a chapel notable for containing a cross designed by none other than Jože Plečnik. For those who don’t appreciate the finer points of ecclesiastic architecture, the front steps do at least provide a nice place to sit and watch the world go by on a gloriously sunny day.

QD-3, Prešernov Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)1242 93 00.

Museums & Galleries City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana) A magnificent museum run by a team of historians who know how to show people a good time, showcasing Ljubljana in all its good and bad colours throughout history.

Featuring both permanent and temporary exhibitions, this is the best place in town for a crash-course in city history.

Find scale models of unfulfilled Plečnik creations, elaborate costumes, old photographs and much more besides.

Check out the fabulous little website for upcoming exhibitions.QC-4, Gosposka 15, tel. +386 (0)1241 25 00, info@ mestnimuzej.si, www.mestnimuzej.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4, students and children €2.50.

Museum of Contemporary Art (Muzej Sodobne Umetnosti Metelkova) Along with the Slovene Ethnographic Museum and a branch of the National Museum, the Museum of Contemporary Art rounds out Ljubljana’s newly christened Museum Quarter located between Metelkova and Tabor in the centre of the city.

Nearly two years of renovations has transformed the former administrative building into the city’s most dynamic arts space, with rooms of all shapes and sizes situated around a vaulting central atrium. The museum is focused on works from the 1960s to the present day, and boasts a permanent collection devoted to Eastern Europe’s postwar avant garde movement, as well as a selection of works from its sister institution, the Museum of Modern Art. Definitely a must-see for art fans.QF-2, Maistrova 3, info@mg-lj.si, www.mg-lj. si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5 adults, €2.50 students/pensioners, €3.50 groups.

Museum of Modern Art (Moderna Galerija) Following a lengthy renovation, the doors of Edvard Ravnikar’s Plečnik-inspired building have finally reopened to the public.

Continuing on from where the National Gallery stops, the city’s excellent Museum of Modern Art houses a fine collection of Slovenian and international 20th-century art.QB-3, Tomšičeva 14, tel. +386 (0)12 41 68 00, info@mg-lj.si, www. mg-lj.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission €5 for adults, €2.50 for students/pensioners. No admission fee first Sunday of every month. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

info@ladjica.si +386 41 684 196

Join us and experience Ljubljana from the river!

National Museum of Slovenia (Narodni Muzej) Found lurking inside another of the city’s fine, late 19th-century neo-Renaissance buildings complete with fine painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, this is the oldest museum in country, founded way back in 1821. Permanent displays include an intriguing collection dedicated to the Slovenians and the Slovenian language alongside the usual bits and pieces of interest dug out of the ground, plus a large ensemble of almost 200 examples of carved stonework dating from Roman times excavated in the city and surrounding regions.QB3, Prešernova 20, tel. +386 (0)12 41 44 00, info@nms. si, www.nms.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.

Admission €4-8.5.

Slovenian Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni Muzej) Attached to Ljubljana’s National Museum, the Natural History Museum isn’t the best in the world by a long way but it does offer an assortment of oddities to beat the rainy blues away or to simply keep the children amused for a while. Among the many peculiar displays of shells, rocks and an almost complete set of mammoth bones, the human fish is perhaps the museum’s strangest display. Known so for its pinky human flesh appearance, the little Proteus anguinus is a blind amphibian found exclusively in a relatively small area including parts of Slovenia, Italy, Croatia and Herzegovina. The gift shop features a handful of fun things for the kids including small build-your-own dinosaur kits.QB-3, Prešernova 20, tel. +386 (0)1 241 09 40, uprava@pmsfacebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

lj.si, www2.pms-lj.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €2.5-3, combined admission with National Museum of Slovenia €3-5.

River Cruises Ladjica Ljubljana One of the most interesting and popular way for tourists (or locals for that matter) to see Ljubljana is from the surface of the Ljubljanica river, which winds its way through the heart of the city, passing most of the major sites along the way. One of the the longest running river boat tour operators is Ladjica Ljubljana. With two boats they offer up to nine scheduled trips per day, leaving from the pier at Ribji Trg (just steps from Tromostovje Bridge along Cankarjevo Nabrežje) and heading south all the way to Špica, before making the return trip to Dragon Bridge on the other side of the city centre. Guided tours are at 12:00 and 16:00 every day, and a special ‘romantic ride’ leaves at 21:00.

Tickets can be purchased in advance at the Tourist Information Centre or at the departure point, and groups can also arrange private tours outside of the regular schedule.

December sees the introduction of special half hour tours to see the festive decorations of Ljubljana QD-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje, tel. +386 (0)41 68 41 96, info@ladjica. si, www.ladjica.si. Departures every day of the year at 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, 16:00, 17:00, 18:00, 19:00, 20:00 and 21:00. Tickets with/without guide €10/8 for adults, €5/4 children. Romantic ride €30 per couple. Festive Tours 17:00, 17:30, 18:00.

December 2014 - January 2015 47

Sightseeing urbana card

Urbana Ljubljana Tourist Card Rated as one of Europe’s best city cards, Tourism Ljubljana’s Urbana offers free admission to all of the city’s main sights as well as free unlimited transport LPP’s extensive urban bus network. The card can be purchased at most hotels and all three of Ljubljana’s Tourist Information Centres (on Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje, at the main train station and on Krekov Trg). Prices are €23/30/35 for 24/48/72 hours, and the card - which contains RFID chip - is activated upon its first use. Order online and save 10% of the regular price!Qwww.visitljubljana.si. 24-hour card €23, 48hour card €30, 72-hour card €35.

Squares Mestni Trg (Town Square) The centre of medieval Ljubljana, the town’s main square was damaged in the 1511 earthquake and subsequently rebuilt in Baroque style. The square houses the Town Hall, City Art Museum, the decorated 16th century Lichtenberg house and the Souvan house with its Empire façade.QD-3/4.

Prešernov Trg (Prešeren Square) Formally a meeting place for several roads in front of one of the old entrance gates to the city, and a public square since Ljubljana’s original defensive walls were torn down in the middle of the 19th century, this is one of the city’s most important landmarks. Named after Slovenia’s national poet France Prešeren (German, Franz Prescheren, 18001849), it’s both a popular meeting place (notably under the large statue of the man after whom the square is named) and a site for concerts and events during the summer.

The charming little public space is ringed by a number of interesting sights including the magnificent Art Nouveau façade of the Urbanc House, an extraordinary piece of early 20th-century flamboyance and site of the soon to be reopened Centromerkur department store.QD-3.

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Tours The Tourist Information Centre should be your first stop if you’re interested in any kind of city tour. They offer a variety of scheduled tours for individuals, and can arrange even more for groups with a bit of advanced notice. Prices and itineraries are also clearly listed on their site, so you’ll know exactly what you’re getting. Almost every hotel in the city offers guided tours of one sort or another as well. Some are good, others just a way of making money. You should be able to spot the scams without too much difficulty.

www.visitljubljana.com

Ljubljana Free Tours The cult of the free tour has well and truly taken over Europe, and Ljubljana is in. There aren’t many better ways of getting a great introduction to the city from a diverse group of passionate and engaging guides. Meeting on Prešeren Square every day at 11:00, the tour covers everything from the city centre to the medieval old town to spooky (okay, not spooky) hidden alleys and a whole lot more. It also has a number of paid tours available by prior booking, such as a Communist tour and a Mystical tour.

Maybe the future will hold a Mystical Communist Tour. For now, the free tour is the best in town.Qtel. +386 (0)40 55 58 43/+386 (0)40 60 44 76, ljubljanafreetour@gmail. com, www.ljubljanafreetour.com.

Tourist information Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre (TIC) A small but extremely well equipped resource with plenty of maps, brochures galore in English, information about what’s on in the city and a range of information on what to see and do in the region. They also organise tours, can help with accommodation, and should be one of your first ports of call when you arrive. Their website is one of the best we’ve seen in Central Europe and is well worth further investigation. Friendly, informative staff too.QD-3, AdamičLundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. +386 (0)13 06 12 15, fax +386 (0)13 06 12 04, tic@visitljubljana.si, www. visitljubljana.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00.

Slovenian Tourist Information Center (STIC) Ljubljana’s central tourist office is a bit larger and usually less crowded than the main branch located a few hundred metres away opposite Prešeren Square, and they also helpfully stock heaps of maps, brochures and general information for the entire country. Tickets for most events in and around town can be purchased, and the staff will gladly give you a run down of the various tours and excursions on offer. Bicycle rentals are also available for only €8 per day, and are a great way to see more of the city.QC-3, Krekov Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 306 45 75, fax +386 (0)1 306 45 80, stic@visitljubljana.com, www.visitljubljana.com. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Schedule: 5 to 30 December 2014: daily at 18:00.

Duration: One and a half hours.

Departure point: The square in front of the Town Hall.

Language options: Slovenian, English.

Prices • €10.00 for adults • €5.00 for children aged between four to 12 years old • free for children below the age of four

Note In the event of adverse river conditions, the boat cruise will be cancelled and the entire tour will be conducted on foot.

Sightseeing

Postojna With less than 10,000 inhabitants Postojna is barely one of the 20 largest towns in Slovenia, but arguably none are more well-known throughout that world (including the capital Ljubljana) than this relatively nondescript settlement in the southwest of the country that wasn’t even officially recognise until 1909. The reason of course it not so much the town itself, but the amazing network of karst caves that lie just below its surface. First opened to the public in 1819, the world-famous Postojna Cave is said to have attracted more than 35 million visitors over the past two centuries, with one of its first being Austro-Hungarian Emperor Francis I the year before it opened.

If this were not enough, Postojna is also blessed with another popular sight in its immediate vicinity, the magnificent Predjama Castle located some 11km to the northwest of the town centre. Built in the 13th century and partially situated under enormous natural stone arch, it’s not only a fine castle in its own right, but also sits atop another tourist cave and is also associated with several fascinating legends.

While the vast majority of visitors come to Postojna just to see one or both of its star attractions, with three proper hotels and many other guesthouses and private accommodation options located in and around the town, it makes a good base for exploring parts of central Slovenia as well as the Karst region that extends towards the Adriatic Sea and Italy - Trieste actually being closer to Postojna than Ljubljana (35km and 54km away respectively).

Where to stay

Winter in Ljubljana, photo by Julija Kodrič/Mostphotos

slocally.com In much the same way that the Slow Food movement revolutionised the way people view the experience of enjoying a good meal, the cleverly named Slocally.com aims to promote a wider movement of Slow Tourism in Slovenia, and offers dozens of unique activities for visitors to participate in from tasting locally produced foods and wines on family-run farms to experiencing traditional local events and fairs to taking part in a diverse variety of hands-on workshops. We’re not exaggerating when we say that there’s likely no better or more convenient way to get to know Slovenia. Detailed descriptions and clearly indicated prices can be found on the very informative website, and the passionate creator of the project, Vesna Velišček, is always happy to answer any questions you may have.QFrankopanska 29, tel. +386 (0)41 432 488, booking@slocally.com, www.slocally.com.

50 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Ljubljananjam Within the world of travel and tourism, one thing that seems to be constant is a love of good food. It has often been said that the best way to experience a culture is through the taste buds, and the good people at Ljubljananjam (well, Iva the founder) are here to make sure nobody misses out whilst in Ljubljana. Devoted to lovers of good food, be they local or foreign, Ljubljananjam organises gourmet walks through downtown Ljubljana, customised to the tastes and budgets of those taking the walk and always kept personal and intimate. Discover local independent businesses, homemade food from high-end gourmet to comfort food, and get all wrapped up in the stories along the way. For more information head to the website, which is choc-full of information, interviews, food blogs and much more.Qtel. +386 (0)40 29 85 89, info@ ljubljananjam.si, www.ljubljananjam.si.

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Mirjam Penzion, Camp & Wellness Set just underneath one of Slovenia’s most unique natural sights, the white limestone cliffs at the southern edge of the Nanos plateau, Mirjam is mini resort with budget accommodation in both standard guest rooms and a shared hostel-style dormitories, as well as a small campground with hookups for motorhomes, shower facilities and plenty of space for pitching a tent. The family-run place also includes billiards, a football pitch and a swimming pool among other amenities, while a full wellness and medical treatment centre rounds out the offer. All in all, it’s a great place for cyclists, campers and other budget travellers to break their journeys on the way to or from the coast. QRazdrto 19, tel. +386 (0)41 684 988/+386 (0)5 75 77 200, mirjam.pavlin@mirjam.si, www.mirjam.si. Singles €35, doubles €44, dorms €12, campground €11/two persons (tent or camper). T6FLEKDCW

The Proteus Restaurant

draught beer on hand for those who are thirsty.QRakitnik 1a, Prestranek, tel. +386 (0)5 720 13 10, info@aviopub.si, www. aviopub.si. Open 10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun and holidays 11:0023:00. Closed Mon. TLBS Proteus Restaurant In the heart of Postojna, only 500m from the entrance to the world famous Postojna Cave, you can find this restaurant named for the underground world’s most famous resident, the Proteus Anguinus, or so-called Human Fish. For those staying in town overnight, accommodation facilities have recently been added above the restaurant. All rooms and apartments are modernly and well-furnished, and the latter also include a kitchen. QTitov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)8 161 0300/+386 (0)40 457 483, info@postojnska-jama. eu, www.postojnska-jama.eu.

Restaurant & Pizzeria Čuk This humble restaurant and pizzeria keeps things simple with good food and friendly service. Located on the edge of town, Čuk is popular with locals and visitors alike. On offer are a range of hearty Slovene dishes and excellent wood-fired pizzas as well as tasty daily specials. The restaurant is great for families with a selection of kid’s meals and a playground to occupy the little ones before or after eating. If you are staying in town and don’t feel like heading out, Čuk also delivers.QPot v Pivki 4, tel. +386 (0)5 7201 300, pizzeria.cuk@ siol.net, www.pizza-cuk.si. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PTLV

Where to eat

Around Postojna

Avio Pub Found just off the runway at Postojna’s small recreational airport, there’s a large garden out back where diners can watch the planes take off and land - many of which are taking visitors on panoramic flights. Despite the name, this place is a fullfledged pizzeria, steakhouse and wine bar, with pizzas coming crispy and hot from a wood-fired oven, steaks grilled to perfection and a wide selection of Slovene wine from the cellar.

From Tuesday to Friday there are multi-course lunch specials starting from only €6. Of course the cosy wood-covered interior is very pub-like in appearance, and there are four types of

Kantina Pivka Maybe it is a sign that we do live in a more peaceful world that things such as this Military History Park and subsequent military canteen can be so very enjoyable. The park itself contains an extensive collection of all things military, including tank-artillery and various aircraft. The canteen gives you the chance to eat in a pseudo-military setting, although with much more enjoyable food and no chance of being sent off at a moments notice to get blown up.QKolodvorksa cesta 51, Pivka, tel. +386 (0)41 74 05 31, info@aviopub.si. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.

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December 2014 - January 2015 51

Postojna Postojnska Jama

Postojna Cave (Postojnska Jama) The largest cave in the karst region and most visited show cave in all of Europe, words on a page can hardly do justice to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20km of galleries have been found, of which barely a fraction are open to the public. All the same, a visit here still takes up much of a morning or an afternoon, as you make your way through the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by a dinky little narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. There are no stairs or difficult climbs along the path to or inside the cave, so visitors with limited mobility should not have any difficulties.

Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the cave was discovered in the 13th century, though never properly explored until the early 1800s. They opened as a tourist attraction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of Austria, among the first to visit. Bizarrely, so popular did the caves become that electric lights were fitted in 1884: some years before such technology was first deployed in Ljubljana itself.

Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalactites and stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, which can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down here are said to be sensational. Note that the temperature of the cave is a chilly 10°C, so bring a jumper. The caves are also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphibian endemic to the subterranean waters of caves of this part of Europe. The olms can be seen in some of the pools of water as you make your way around the cave. Though blind they are sensitive to flash photography and if you do spot one you should refrain from taking any photos.QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, info@postojnska-jama.eu, www.postojnska-jama.eu.

Open every day, all year. Tours from November to March at 10:00, 12:00, 15:00.

52 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Shopping Predjama Castle (Predjamski Grad) Located some 10km north of Postojna is one of Europe’s finest castles. Predjama Castle (or Predjamski grad, Höhlenburg Lueg and Castel Lueghi in Slovene, German and Italian respectively), was built in a Gothic style by the Patriarch of Aquileia sometime during the 13th century and first mentioned in the historical record in the year 1274. Perched under a natural archway 123m up a sheer cliff face and surrounded by a thick stone wall, throughout the centuries the castle has gained a well-deserved reputation for being virtually impregnable.

This fact was most popularly demonstrated during the 15th century by the more than year-long siege of Erazem Lueger, who was a knight and the son of the Imperial governor of Trieste, but had also a gained a reputation as a rather proficient robber baron throughout the Habsburg empire. It is said that in 1483, Erazem fled to the castle from Vienna after killing a Marshall of the Imperial Army who had insulted one of his friends, which brought about the wrath of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, who laid siege to the castle. However, thanks to a secret cave leading from the bowels of Predjama to Postojna Cave and then on to the nearby village of Vipava, Erazem was able to secure an steady supply of fresh food and water. Unfortunately for Erazem, his luck ran out when he was betrayed by one of his servants and unceremoniously killed by the shot of a single canon ball while on the toilette. In the years that followed, the castle was destroyed and rebuilt several times, before acquiring a Renaissance style in 1570, which has remained virtually unchanged to this day.

Nowadays the castle is open to the public and serves as a museum. It has been completely restored to its original grandeur, and among other sites visitors can see the residential quarters, the chapel and of course the dungeon. It is also possible to see the legendary cave below the castle, although some climbing and a minimal level of fitness is strongly encouraged if not required. QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, info@postojnska-jama.eu, www. postojnska-jama.eu. Open every day, all year. From November to March 10:00 - 16:00.

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Arts & Crafts

Department Stores

Galerija Idrijska Čipka The region of Idrija is particularly noted for its fine lace work, dating back to the 1600s, and Idrijska čipka showcases both traditional designs and more contemporary pieces. At the shop you can get an introduction to all things lace, including a demonstration from the shop assistant on the piece she is currently working on - she claimed that she is just a beginner, but it looked pretty perfect to us.QD-4, Mestni Trg 17, tel. +386 (0)1 425 00 51/+386 (0)31 314 558, voncina.irma@siol.net, www.idrija-lace. com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Nama Set in the heart of the city centre, just opposite the central post office, this modern department store offers several floors of clothing for men and women, with brands ranging from sporty to trendy to sophisticated. A large selection of household items can be found on the fourth floor and a supermarket stocked with an appetising variety of ready meals, salads, produce and other quick eats is in the basement, while the ground floor is where you will find cosmetics and accessories.QC-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. +386 (0)1 425 83 00, info@nama.si, www. nama.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Laura Etno Gallery (Laura Etno Galerija) Laura Etno Gallery offers a wide range of arts and crafts products in their Ciril-Metodov square located store.

Unique ceramic, porcelain, glass, stone and wood works from top Slovenian manufacturers flood the room, as well as paintings from some of the most respected Slovenian artists and a number of products from internationallyrespected Slovenian designer, Oskar Kogoj. A wide selection of embroidery and lace can also be found, including none-more-traditional Idrija Lace. If this wasn’t enough, lace products can also be made to order.QCiril Metodov trg 20, tel. +386 (0)1 433 83 70/+386 (0)1 433 83 60, info@galerijalaura.si, www.galerijalaura.si. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Fashion

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Forma F+ One of Ljubljana’s largest fashion and sporting good megastores, in addition to the individual approach and personal advice from resident professional athletes, Forma F+ also offers an exclusive range of top brands, including Quiksilver, Roxy, Rossignol, SuperDry, Columbia and Nike. It’s located on three floors of the Crystal Palace building in BTC City, and there’s also a Forma F+ Outlet in Hala 11, where items from last season can be bought with a significant discount.QM2, Ameriška 8, BTC City, tel. +386 (0)5 994 61 80/+386 (0)1 300 08 26, info@fplus.si, www.fplus.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. December 2014 - January 2015 53

Shopping Krznarstvo Eber Just the throw of a stone from Prešeren square, this delightful little boutique has been in business for almost 100 years, opening its doors way back in 1919. The very definition of a family business, the Eber family have been providing the people of Ljubljana with the finest fur products in town for generations, with the focus squarely on local products.

Coats, hats, bags and a variety of other accessories, it is all here in abundance.QWolfova 6, tel. +386 (0)1 421 57 00, info@krznarstvo-eber.com, www.krznarstvo-eber.com.

Open 09:30-13:00, 17:00-19:00, Sat 09:30-12:00. Closed Sun. Mandarina Duck Mandarina Duck is an innovative designer brand that offers simple, unique and creative solutions for people who are ambitious, curious, positive and always up-to-date on the latest trends. The brand’s range includes handbags, business bags, wallets and luggage.veQC/D-3, Wolfova 1, tel. +386 (0) 1 251 10 10, www.bags.si. Open 09:30 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Marina Yachting Ideally located on Novi Trg in Ljubljana’s old town, Marina Yachting brings the fashions of the sea to the city. Using lightweight materials allowing for maximum comfort, the traditions of the sailors are respected at every turn as modern twists are developed creating clothes to be worn for every occasion. Nothing is rushed, and the care taken over each garment is obvious to all. The brand is constant-

Shopping ly evolving, producing fashionable and classy attire with ease.QC-4, Novi Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)1 425 1107, marina. yachting@amis.net, www.liliinroza.si. Open 09:00 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Max&Co MAX&Co. is all about style and glamour: a perfectly calibrated blend of typically Italian quality and creativity. Sartorial tradition and state-of-the-art technology is applied to fashion design, and MAX&Co.’s collections are the fruit of a constantly evolving attitude and the desire to experiment and innovate, which constitutes the pioneering ethos of the brand.

MAX&Co. are distinguished by a fresh, contemporary international flair and purposefully designed to be reinterpreted according to one’s moods and whims.QD-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 241 47 45, maxandco@siol.net, www.liliinroza.si.

Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Max Mara When entering Max Mara, words like elegant and sophisticated spring to mind. The shop positively glows with these qualities, offering a diverse range of nicely presented, luxurious ladies’ attire. Staff are always nearby to assist if needed but keep a polite distance, allowing you to browse without feeling any pressure. A highlight is the subtle yet striking Sportmax range, which presents high fashion at its highest while retaining an innovative individualism.QD-3, Miklošičeva 6, tel. +386 (0)1 426 58 80, info@fashiongroup.si, www.fashiongroup.si. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Petit Bateau Petit Bateau is a century-old tradition based on the things that should be a part of everyday life: youthful playfulness, sincere happiness and endless comfort. Since 1893 the brand has been an indispensable companion for children and adults for whom quality and comfort are important.

QD-4, Stari Trg 30, tel. +386 (0)5 993 49 89, petitbateau@siol.net, www.liliinroza.si. Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Quiksilver The Ljubljana branch of the well-known international sporting apparel shop, stocks a variety of fashionable casual and sportswear for both men and women, whether your destination is the beach, the ski slopes or the mountains.QD-4, Mestni Trg 10, tel. +386 (0)1 251 10 73/+386 (0)51 222 069, boardridersclub.lj@gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

Soven Natura Being from the land of Britain, we are no strangers to the wonderful comfort of quality wool products. It is with great pleasure then that we are able to write about the only specialized shop in Slovenia solely for woollen products! Putting a modern fashionable spin on old Slovene traditions, all manner of garments are available at Soven. Socks, gloves, sweaters, jackets as well as sleeping bags and much more fill the shelves. Everything is organically produced as well, more often than not made by hand.QVodnikov Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)40 19 02 93/+386 (0)40 52 66 69, soven1@siol. net, www.soven.si. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.

Viktor Barlič This family-run enterprise has been producing high-quality handmade leather goods since first opening its doors on Mestni Trg back in 1954. Nowadays the third generation of the Barlič family specialises in the design and creation of original handbags and other leather accessories, combining traditional handmade methods with modern fashion trends. No two bags are exactly alike and the selection changes weekly, making this is the perfect shop for those who take pride in being unique. A carefully chosen range of imported women’s footwear is also available. The shop is a winner of the prestigious Ljubljana Quality Selection, so you can rest assured that you’ll be in good hands.QD-4, Mestni Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)1 251 2908, info@barlic.si, www.barlic.si. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

At Dvorec Trebnik you will find:

Food & Drink

certified natural cosmetic products, cosmetics imbued with the fresh scents of nature, natural textile products, culinary products, gifts.

Dvorec Trebnik products can be found in-store at Mestni trg 6 in the heart of Ljubljana's old town, the herbal gallery on Grajska cesta 4, at our online store at www.trebnik.com or in Mercator retail stores throughout Slovenia.

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Mesarstvo Krušič For those looking try a distinctly Slovene culinary staple, the family-run Krušič Butchery is the country’s top provider of horse meat and assorted products. While the thought of eating horse will strike visitors from certain countries as an odd practice, from a nutritional point of view the high protein and low fat meat is much healthier than the more widely consumed alternatives. Using old family recipes, Krušič produces everything from pâtés to dry salami, and of course facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

has a wide selection of fresh raw cuts, all of which come exclusively from Slovenia and have received various quality awards. A second location can be found in the Plečnik Arcade at the central market, and their products can also be purchased at Domača Vas in Kranj.QL-3, Bezenškova 11, tel. +386 (0)1 586 24 37, www.mesarstvo-krusic.si. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Gifts & Souvenirs Čokoladnica Cukrček A charming, family-run business with four shops in the city, Čokoladnica Cukrček has been delighting adults and making children happily sick for a decade and a half. Among the many fine examples of chocolate for sale include special Ljubljana dragons in souvenir wooden boxes, fruit covered in chocolate and even chocolate flavoured with salt. In addition to the main location on Mestni Trg, you can find Cukrček in the Nebotičnik passageway, opposite Hotel Union and in Mercator Centre Šiška.QD-3/4, Mestni Trg 11, tel. +386 (0)1 421 04 53, info@benedict.si, www. cukrcek.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.

Second hand/vintage

Moje Tvoje A unique concept shop, Moje Tvoje (or ‘mine is yours’) offers a great selection of reasonably priced vintage and second-hand clothing, as well as some original jewellery created by young Slovene designers. Just for good measure the place also doubles as gallery space for locals artists, with exhibitions changing every month or two. Find it down a small passageway off Mestni Trg not far from Town Hall.QD-4, Mestni Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)40 127 973, mojetvoje-second-hand.si. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

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Shopping

Shopping Galerija Rustika Featuring the largest selection of high-quality Slovenian handicraft products in the entire country, Rustika is indeed equal parts gallery and shop. Perusing the collection with the help of a knowledgeable staff member feels a bit like taking a guided tour through all of the many diverse regions and cultures found within Slovenia’s borders. Highlights include traditional beehive panels produced by an award-winning local artisan, world famous Idrijan lace, and various different seasonal specialties. In addition to their beautiful premises just inside the gates of Ljubljana Castle, there’s a second location near Tromostovje Bridge.QD-4, Ljubljanski Grad, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 18/+386 (0)31 383 247, www.galerijarustika.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Also at Stritarjeva 9 (D-3), tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 18/+386 (0)31 459 509, www.galerijarustika.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

Old Town Souvenirs Situated directly between Prešeren Square and Dragon Bridge, you’re guaranteed to pass by this well-stocked souvenir shop on any walking tour of Ljubljana. In addition to the usual assortment of souvenirs, from magnets and shot glasses to chocolate and schnapps (and of course all manner of dragons), they also offer uniquely designed high-quality t-shirts, which conveniently come in their own gift bag. If the weather is nice, you can even grab a beer or soda to drink along the riverside promenade while writing the obligatory postcards.QD3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 27a, tel. +386 (0)1 620 0851, info@old-town.si. Open 09:00 - 19:00.

Oliviers&Co With a newly opened boutique store on Ciril Metodov trg, the Oliviers & Co olive oil empire continues to grow.

The company was founded in France almost 20 years ago, and has fully committed to offering the very best that the Mediterranean has to offer, in the shape of the finest olive oils, truffles, spreads, cosmetics and much more, including the most delightful vinegars we’ve ever come across. Delightfully friendly (but not intrusive) shop assistants are on hand to help at all times.QC-2, Slovenska 46, tel. +386 1 232 22 92, info@oliviers-co. si, www.oliviers-co.si. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Also at Ciril Metodov trg 20.

Trgovina Ika Ika puts the creativity of local Slovene artists and fashion designers in the forefront of its shelves, exhibiting a wonderful selection of products such as paintings, ceramics, jewellery and fashion. You can pick up great souvenirs here as a lot of the products represent the beauty of Ljubljana in artistic forms, or if you’re looking for a unique garment or piece of art, you’ve come to the right place.QD-3, Ciril-Metodov Trg 13, tel. +386 (0)1 232 17 43, info@trgovina-ika.si, www.trgovina-ika. si. Open 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 14:00.

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Cosmetics Dvorec Trebnik Many shops are bastions of tradition, and with a brand history dating back to the 16th century the Trebnik mansion truly has the chops to back up the claim. Five centuries is a long time, and in that time they have truly mastered the world of body care products, doing so in a most ethical manner along the way with all products made of entirely natural ingredients, free of any genetic modification and not animal-tested. Teas and snacks are also available for purchase.QMestni trg 6, tel. +386 (0)30 99 64 63, prodajalnadvorectrebnik@mercator-lp.si, www.trebnik. com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Home & Design 1001 Dar While we’ve never personally counted, the name Tisoč in En Dar (Slovene for 1001 Things) seems just about right for this chain of home and design shops, which stock everything from pillows and blankets to gardening supplies to sushi rolling set and Thai spices. A family-run company for more than 25 year, each product is carefully selected from top international brands for both its usability and aesthetics, as well as personal taste, many of which can’t be found elsewhere in Slovenia. Visit the original shop in the Plava Laguna underpass, or one of four others, including at Citypark in BTC and Mercator Centre in Šiška in Ljubljana, as well as Europark in Maribor.QM-2, Šmartinska 152g (Citypark), tel. +386 (0)1 541 17 30, www.1001dar.si.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Jewellery & Watches Rebecca The first private label from Italian designer Alessandro Testi, since its introduction some ten years ago the Rebecca brand has become an internationally renowned trend setter for highend fashion jewellery, and is largely credited with creating the phenomenon of fashion jewellery in Italy. The use of unconventional materials, rather than relying solely on precious metals and gems, means that there is something for most (if not all) wallets.QD-3, Miklošičeva 1, Grand Hotel Union, tel. +386 (0)1 422 22 22. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun.

Home & Design Formadoma Design Shop Being men, we don’t really understand where all of our household items come from. Needless to say, if we had our way this bright and modern boutique just off Stari trg would be out first port of call. Packed to the brim with homemade items created by renowned Slovene artists taking their cues from Scandinavian style, the Design Shop just oozes elegance and quiet style.

Well-known Scandinavian brands are also available within, the very definition of refinement.QStari trg 5, tel. +386 (0)59 25 30 02/+386 (0)68 601689, www.formadoma.eu. Open 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

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Shopping

Sport & Fitness Massage Onzonthai For those who feel they are crumbling under the weight of the stress of daily life, there aren’t many more rewarding things than a massage, a Thai massage more so. Aiming to awaken the main energy points in the body, Onzonthai is a parlour in town that has perfected the balance between physical and spiritual. A variety of massages with a variety of accompaniments are on offer, with everything from chocolate to mango butter to argan oil put to work to make you feel as relaxed as is necessary.QJurčkova ulica 1, tel. +386 (0)40 19 14 84, onzonthai@gmail.com, www.tajskamasaza.eu. Open 10:00: - 21:00. Closed Sun.

Shopping Centres

Sports & Recreation

Citypark Boasting over 120 stores of all shapes and sizes, Citypark is Slovenia’s largest shopping centre, and the best place to find pretty much whatever you need while in Ljubljana. Besides the massive variety of stores - such as XYZ, K&O, Big Bang, Desigual, Hervis, H&M and an Interspar hypermarket - there is a terrific choice of places to eat, from Burger King to Thai food to traditional Slovenian. Unlike the city centre parking is never a problem, and there’s even a large children’s play area to keep the kids occupied. Find the Citypark page on Facebook to stay up to date with new openings and events.

QM-3, Šmartinska 152g, tel. +386 (0)1 587 30 50, info@ citypark.si, www.citypark.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

Deha ‘Deha’ is the Turkish word for genius, and its safe to say you’ve got to have some smarts to walk away with the much-coveted Global Sport Style Award. Deha is an Italian company that has spread across much of Europe, producing clothes and accessories for dancing that take their cue from same world, as the emphasis is on the subtlety of movement and the sensuality within. All garments are made using the finest cottons, silks and tech fabrics of course.QGosposka ulica 5, tel. +386 (0)1 425 48 31/+386 (0)41 31 98 53, deha@eurosport-trade.si, www.deha.tv.

Open 09:30 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Wine, Spirits & Beer Pivoteka Za Popen’t Za Popen’t may be hidden away in a small courtyard off of Stari Trg, but it’s selection of specialty beers is the largest in the country. At last count some 250 different beers from around the world were weighing down the shelves here, nearly all of which can be explained in detail by the friendly and knowledgeable owner or her staff. For those who don’t know much about beers (like us), don’t worry - simply tell them what kind of flavours you like and they will be able to find a beer for you to try!QD-4, Stari Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1 256 59 16, zapopent@hotmail.com, www.zapopent.si.

Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Vineria del Ponte A glimpse of beautiful Italy in the heart of Ljubljana’s old town, this shop specialising in Italian wines (but also containing Slovenian varieties) is an eno-gastronomic experience to be savoured. There are over 400 top quality wines of all varieties to choose from, as well as other gourmet products such as pastas, sauces and biscuits, and most surprisingly of all the prices are virtually the same as you’ll find in Italy. We’ve even got a few Italian friends in Ljubljana who are regular customers.QD-3, Stari Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)30 294 685/+386 (0)51 828 508, alfonso.leserri@gmail.com.

Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

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Swimming Atlantis Water Park Located where else but in BTC City, Atlantis is arguably the top destination for water-based entertainment and fun in Ljubljana. The huge complex is roughly divided into three main areas: Adventure World, a classic water park for kids and families; the Thermal Temple, a more relaxing space with both indoor and outdoor thermal pools; and Sauna Land, which includes some 15 different saunas, most of which are themed. Additional services include Thai massages, a hair salon and various different catering facilities.

Opening hours and prices vary for each of the facilities here, so for more detailed info it’s best to check the official website, which is in multiple languages including English.QN-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. +386 (0)1 585 21 00, vodnomesto@btc.si, www.atlantis-vodnomesto.si.

Open 09:00 - 23:00.

Spa & Wellness Spa v Mestu This little wellness boutique centrally located on Truberjeva street (hence the name, ‘v mestu’= in the city) has everything you could imagine to help you look and feel your best. Stepping into the serene intimate space that is the private spa suite, Ljubljana (and work) feels a million miles away. The VIP sauna (only for two) helps, and if the Finnish sauna and massive spa (freshly filled each reservation) aren’t relaxing enough there are also countless massages and treatments on offer, whilst the various beauty treatments from professional make-up services (using gorgeous natural cosmetics) to waxing (slightly less relaxing) and a plethora of facial treatments will leave you looking amazing.QTrubarjeva cesta 45, tel. +386 (0)51 36 79 07/+386 (0)1 434 33 86, tinka@spavmestu.si, www.spavmestu.si. Open 13:00 - 21:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Saturday and Sunday treatment available on prior request.

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Stay healthy!

Fitness P FitnessQVerovškova 55a, tel. +386 (0)1 513 64 48/+386 (0)40 332 203, office@4p-fitness.com, www.4pfitness.com. Open 06:00 - 24:00.

BIT Sport CenterQM-4, Litijska 57, tel. +386 (0)15 48 00 55, hotel@bit-center.net, www.bit-center.net.

Open 07:00 - 23:00.

Fit & Fun CenterQD-2, Dalmatinova 2, tel. +386 (0)1239 61 74, info@fit-funcenter.si, www.fit-funcenter. si. Open 06:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.

Konex CentreQI-4, Cesta na Brdo 109, tel. +386 (0)12 41 40 00, info@konex-center.si, www.konexcenter.si. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00.

Sokol GroupQJ-4, Koprska 72, tel. +386 (0)12 00 27 50, fax +386 (0)12 00 27 57, uprava@sokolgroup.com, www.sokolgroup.com.

Sunny StudioQI-1, Regentova 37, tel. +386 (0)15 13 44 44, sunny@siol.net, www.sunny.si. Open 07:00 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

TG SportlifeQK-2, Bežigrad 13, tel. +386 (0)41 81 11 96, info@tgsportlife.net, www.tgsportlife.net. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tivoli FitnessQB-1, Celovška 25, tel. +386 (0)13 00 37 55, www.sport-ljubljana.si. Open 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.

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Hotels

Hotels Hotels Over €170 Cubo This relatively new boutique hotel has a great location right in the heart of the city opposite beautiful Kongresni Trg and Zvezda Park. In its couple short years Cubo has already won a host of awards for excellence, including our own IYP Best Business Hotel competition. Its 26 rooms are modern, elegant islands of tranquility, with gorgeous views of the castle and old town, and a friendly professional staff that is always eager to make your stay as comfortable and memorable as possible. The street-level restaurant serves equally praiseworthy cuisine, and is a popular spot for business lunches.QC-4, Slovenska 15, tel. +386 (0)1 425 60 00, fax +386 (0)1 425 60 20, reception@hotelcubo.com, www. hotelcubo.com. 26 rooms (singles €140, doubles €180, suites €350). PJALKW hhhh Grand Hotel Union Business Attached to its sibling Executive hotel and sharing some but not all of the facilities on offer, accommodation comes in a choice of rooms and suites. Shared facilities include a grand total of 21 conference and banqueting rooms, secure parking and the pleasing fact that the best sights and leisure activities in the city are all close at hand. Check out their extensive website for further information.QD3, Miklošičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 308 1170, business@ union-hotels.eu, www.union-hotels.eu. 133 rooms (singles €178-212, doubles €193-227, suites €372-446).

PTJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh Grand Hotel Union Executive In a great location in the heart of the city centre, the Executive offers fine accommodation in a range of tastefully decorated rooms, suites and apartments. Complete with a lovely old world, Art Nouveau ambience, expect an excellent choice of facilities for both business and leisure. Extras include two restaurants, a small bar, airport shuttle service and a decent gift shop. In keeping with its reputation, the hotel also hosts the local bridge club, who meet every Monday at 18:00.QD-3, Miklošičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 308 1270, grand@union-hotels.eu, www.unionhotels.eu. 194 rooms (singles €194-233, doubles €209-248, suites €455-546). PJHAR6UFLGK� DXCW hhhh

Hotels €100-170 Antiq A superb location in the heart of the old town with a host of rooms to suit all tastes and budgets. Featuring a welcoming little lobby with lots of nice feminine touches, the rooms have been given a distinctly boutique hotel feel, with huge wooden beds, patterned carpets, interesting paintings on the walls and some really smart pieces of furniture. Even the small budget economy rooms have been approached with a tasteful eye, whereas at the other end of the spectrum the superiors come with bags of space, lovely chandeliers and magnificent bathrooms. Room 13 60 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Hotel Listings Policy Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical order within that band. The price band refers to the rack rate for a double room. on the other hand takes a different, more modernistic approach, with wooden floors and minimalist furniture.

QD-4, Gornji Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 35 60, fax +386 (0)1 421 35 65, info@antiqhotel.eu, www.antiqhotel.eu.

Open 00:00 - 24:00. 16 rooms (singles €85-110, doubles €156-206, extra bed €50). PJAR6IGW hhhh Austria Trend Near the ring road 2km north of the city centre, this vast business class hotel provides high quality rooms in four different categories, plus a range of other excellent services and facilities including a wellness centre, conference rooms, restaurants, a fine cocktail bar and a fun oyster and sushi bar. Popular for both relaxing business stays as well as a variety of different functions, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better hotel of this type in the city.QL-2, Dunajska 154, tel. +386 (0)15 88 25 00, fax +386 (0)15 88 25 99, ljubljana@austria-trend.at, www.austria-trend.at/ lju. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 214 rooms (singles €100-125, doubles €140-220, suites €130-210, apartments €225).

POHA6UFGKDXW Best Western Premier Hotel Slon On the site of the oldest hotel in Ljubljana, the Slon is the best value stay in the city. For a very reasonable price you get a ton of luxury, from a pillow menu (yes, really) to sheets of only the purest cotton. The breakfast is a buffet affair of the highest quality; you should turn up early if you want to have time to taste everything. Add in a small fitness centre and sauna, free Wi-Fi, home entertainment centres in every room, tremendous service and a location in the very heart of the city, and you have one hell of a package.

QC-3, Slovenska 34, tel. +386 (0)1 470 11 00, fax +386 (0)1 251 71 64, sales@hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon. com. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 168 rooms (singles €75 - 134, doubles €110-160, triples €165-180, suites €201-335).

PJHAR6UIGKDXW hhhh Central The classic three-star hotel experience, the Central is the little brother of the three Union hotels in the city. Geared up exceptionally well for the tourist market, the reception is crammed with the latest useful information about the city and surrounding region. There’s a popular on-site bar and café, and the rooms feature everything you need for a good value stay right in the heart of the city centre. Excellent value accommodation indeed.QD-2, Miklošičeva 9, tel. +386 (0)1 308 4300, central@union-hotels.eu, www. union-hotels.eu. 74 rooms (singles €90-167, doubles €100-197, suites €286-343). PJHAR6UF� GKDXCW hhh ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Four Points by Sheraton Ljubljana Mons Mons is style personified, with an instant impression made on arrival by the elegant reception and bar area.

Following a mantra based on honest, uncomplicated comfort and offering more than just an upmarket sleeping option, weekly BBQs throughout summer present a fusion of excellent Balkan and American food, all you can eat no less, which we’re always in favour of. Mons is a part of the Starwood Preferred Guest program, the best (officially) loyalty program of its kind. A free shuttle service to the centre of Ljubljana and back is also available.QI-4, Pot Za Brdom 4, tel. +386 (0)1 470 27 00, fax +386 (0)1 470 27 08, info@fourpointsljubljana. com, www.fourpointsljubljanamons.com. 114 rooms (€109 - 129). PTHAR6FLGKDXW hhhh G Design Hotel The exceedingly modern G Design may be one of Ljubljana’s newest hotels, but it also boasts over two hundred years of tradition, as the still functioning (and beautifully restored) Gostilna Gorjanc restaurant has been serving travellers at the same location since the end of the 18th century. The large well-furnished rooms feature soft lighting and super comfortable beds, with panoramic views of Ljubljana castle in the distance. Well-equipped conference facilities and meeting rooms are available, and for a real treat you can dine ‘in bed’ at the unique G Super Club. The hotel is conveniently situated just off the Brezovica exit on the motorway, at the edge of the forest just a short drive south of the city centre.QH-5, Tržaška 330, tel. +386 (0)1 200 91 00, fax +386 (0)1 200 91 30, info@gdesignhotel.si, www.gdesignhotel.si. 22 rooms (singles €85-115, doubles €120-150, suites €220-250).

HAULKW hhhh Ljubljana Resort Just a few kilometres out of the centre, Ljubljana Resort offers an inspiring oasis for the entire family with accommodations in the form of hotel rooms (with breakfast), campers, and space to set up your own tents. There are also two large restaurants; the Laguna swimming facility with pools and hot tubs; and quite a few indoor and outdoor sports facilities. In the evenings, the resort regularly holds concerts and other night time entertainment. The staff is small but exceedingly friendly and is available 24 hours a day to make sure that you enjoy every minute of your stay.QL-1, Dunajska 270, tel. +386 (0)1 568 39 13, fax +386 (0)1 568 39 12, ljubljana.resort@gpl.si, www.ljubljanaresort.si. 62 rooms (singles €60-115, doubles €70-130, triples €99-160, family €135-200).

PTHAULEGBKXCSW Vander Urbani Resort Down a narrow cobbled alleyway connecting Mestni Trg with the riverside, an urban oasis has been constructed inside of four centuries-old town houses. Extensively renovated by Sadar Vuga architects in the most confacebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Meksiko

Situated within the University Medical Center, Hotel Meksiko is the most convenient accommodation option for both out-patients travelling from afar and visiting relatives, and is also a fine choice for business travellers and ordinary tourists, as it’s position on Ljubljana’s inner-ring road provides easy access to the rest of the city by car, as well as a short walking distance to the eastern edges of the old town and main tourist attractions. The hotel’s 50 rooms are modernly equipped, and all feature modern amenities such as air-con, LCD TVs and free wireless internet. Parking is also available for guests.QF-2, Njegoševa 6k, tel. +386 (0)1 200 90 90, info@hotel-meksiko.si, www. hotel-meksiko.si. Single rooms from €54, doubles from €78. PZJALKW December 2014 - January 2015 61

Hotels

Hotels

temporary of styles and a member of Design Hotels, the resort (which is not an inaccurate term) is comprised of a restaurant and lounge bar on the ground floor, with exquisite and uniquely-designed guest rooms located on the floors above. However, perhaps the most impressive single feature is the rooftop terrace, which boasts an infinity pool, yoga studio and glorious views of Ljubljana’s medieval old town.QD-4, Krojaška 6-8, tel. +386 (0)1 200 9000, fax +386 (0)1 200 9001, info@vanderhotel. com, vanderhotel.com. Singles from €120, doubles from €165. PJHAKCW hhhh

Hotel Birokrat Not too far from Stožice Sports Park, Birokrat primarily caters to business travellers but is just as good an option for tourists as well. You’ll struggle to find more modern, spacious rooms in the entire city, and guests also get free entry to the Laguna Swimming Pools, which is as big a selling point as we’ve ever heard. With an on-site conference room for the more functional visitors, Birokrat really covers both sides of the visiting coin.QDunajska cesta 91, tel. +386 (0)1 530 02 12, rezervacije@birokrathotel.si, www.birokrathotel.si.

Hotels €70-100

Hotels Under €70

Alo Rooms Vrbinc B&B A modern bed and breakfast with that extra touch of comfort, the Vrbinc is more personal than any chain hotel, while retaining a sense of privacy. The corridors are beautifully decorated with murals of Slovenia, while the bright fresh rooms sleep up to five, and include a welcome pack with wine and other treats. Breakfast is especially impressive, made to order and served at your table in the restaurant. L​ ocated just off the motorway near the Rudnik shopping centre, Vrbinc is good for those with their own transport, and cars, bikes and scooters can also be rented onsite.QL-6, Peruzzijeva 105, tel. +386 (0)8 205 82 50/+386 (0)40 62 18 62, info@alo-hotel.si, www.alo-accommodation-ljubljana.si. Singles €4969, doubles €59-79, triples €79-99, 4-person €99-129, 5-person €125-149.

Emonec This clean and slightly hidden hotel actually gives you front row seats to the city as it sits right inside the Prešernov Trg area. The accommodation is sparse and while they have no restaurant there are no shortage of options as soon as you walk out of the door. One of a limited number of choices for travellers on a budget.QC/D-3, Wolfova 12, tel. +386 (0)1 200 15 20, fax +386 (0)1 200 15 21, hotelemonec@ siol.net, www.hotel-emonec.com. 41 rooms (singles €64, doubles €67-77, triples €90-96, quads €105-111).

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For special offer - 12% discount send us your request on e-mail: info@birokrathotel.si Please include in e-mail offer code INYOURPOCKET. Valid only for direct reservations via e-mail: info@birokrathotel.si.

www.birokrathotel.si | info@birokrathotel.si | +386 1 5300 212 | Dunajska 191 - Ljubljana - Slovenia

Pension Jelen Located on the old road leading to Medvode and onwards to Austria (Celovška Cesta is Slovene for Villach Road), Jelen has been hosting travellers since the late-19th century, and is also a popular restaurant and pizzeria. Rooms are modernly equipped and the location offers easy access to Ljubljana’s sights as well as airport, and for those without their own transport, Jelen can be conveniently reached by three different bus lines from the city centre (1, 8 and 25).

QCelovška 462, tel. +386 (0)1 516 15 45, info@pensionjelen.eu, www.pension-jelen.eu. 16 rooms from €38.

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Apartments Kollmann Apartments These beautifully renovated luxury apartments and rooms right in the centre of the old town are truly a sight to behold. The highlight of the smaller unit is the king-sized waterbed located in a loft bedroom separated from the living room below, while the larger apartment is absolutely huge, with two bedrooms, a full bathtub and a washing machine. Both apartments and one of the rooms have fully-equipped kitchenettes, while the larger of the apartments and both rooms also have great views of the Ljubljanica and old town below. All units feature brand new LCD TVs and free internet,QD-4, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 27, tel. +386 (0)51 268 288, info@ljubljanaapartments.eu, www.ljubljana-apartments.eu. Apartment 1 (2-3 people) €93, Apartment 2 (6-8) €176, ensuite rooms (2-4) €78-85. PTJA6GXW 62 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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This small welcoming hotel takes a personal approach to guests’ needs and accommodating their desires.

Ideally situated near both the city centre and the motorway, it is also within walking distance of the city’s largest green space, Tivoli Park. Rooms are individually decorated, and come with all the modern amenities standard in larger hotels. They also offer family rooms with extra space for little ones and small kitchens, and an on-site shop sells regional gourmet products. Perhaps best of all the rooms are located next to a great restaurant of the same name.QJ-4, Sattnerjeva 2, tel. +386 (0)59 333 600/+386 (0)40 636 205, fax +386 (0)59 333 608, azur.ghbooking@gmail.com, www. garnihotelazur.si. 7 rooms. PTAR6LW hhh December 2014 - January 2015 63

Hotels

Hotels tel. +386 (0)1 620 0851, info@old-town.si, www. old-town.si. Rooms from €53, apartments from €83.

PJAW Vila Klara Renting an apartment can be much more appealing to groups of two or more travellers, and the self contained apartments at Vila Klara are no exception. Located in a peaceful neighbourhood near the centre of Ljubljana, they have their own large balconies, twin/double bed, sofa-bed and kitchen with fridge. Not missing a thing on the ‘home comforts’ list, guests can even use the washing machine in the garage for free. Overseen by the friendly staff at the Alohotel Rooms Vrbic, the service is warm and hospitable, making it a great option if you’re on a trip with your loved ones.QStaretova ulica 25, tel. +386 (0)41 66 69 01.

Hostels

MartaStudio These three self-contained studios and one large 106m² apartment are reasonably priced alternatives to booking a hotel. All fitted with modern facilities, including kitchenettes, the family-run accommodation is just a short 10-minute walk from the city centre, or an even shorter bus ride from the stop just a few metres away (lines 1 and 6). A supermarket, restaurants and banks are all nearby, and airport pick-up can be arranged for little more than the cost of a bus. The entrance is in the same building as the shop Mavrica, look for the house in the courtyard with the red façade.QJ-4, Tržaška 24, tel. +386 (0)5 9020 452/+386 (0)41 874 400, fax +386 (0)5 9060 012, info@martastudio.eu, www.martastudio. eu. (3 studios €60, 1 apartment €137). TA6L Old Town Rooms and Apartments These newly opened rooms and apartments in a renovated house along the Ljubljanica allow guests to both enjoy an authentic old town experience, while also having the comfort of modern accommodation - all just steps from Prešeren Square, Dragon Bridge and all the other sights in Ljubljana’s medieval centre. All units are bright and airy with wooden furnishings, manually controlled air conditioning, and modern necessities such as large flat screen TVs and wireless internet. Set off Petkovškovo nabrežje through a common courtyard, those looking for peace in the very centre need look no further.QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 27a, 64 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

AdHoc Hostel Despite the name, budget conscious travellers can rest assured that every aspect of this newly opened hostel has been thoroughly planned and executed - including all the small touches that backpackers are sure to appreciate, such as ample common space, plenty of showers and shelves for the top bunks. However, it’s the unbeatable location in the heart of the old town just below the castle and only steps from all the major sites (and popular nightlife venues) that makes AdHoc a winner. A total of 92beds are spread across several floors and a combination of dorms and private rooms.QCankarjevo Nabrežje 27, tel. +386 (0)51 268 288, info@adhoc-hostel.com, www. adhoc-hostel.com. 8-bed dorm €16-20, private quadruple €17-23/person, private double €19-27/person.

PJGW Celica Ljubljana’s legendary Celica hostel and surrounding buildings close to the bus and train stations and the city centre started life in the 19th century as an Austro-Hungarian military barracks. Once a prison, many of Celica’s rooms have preserved their original character, providing

Tržaška 24, 1000 Ljubljana Apartment (6 - 8 people) available for long-term accommodation, from €80-100/per day.

Phone/Fax: +386 (0)5 9020 452 +386 (0)41 874 400 fax:+386 (0)5 9060 012 info@martastudio.eu

www.martastudio.eu

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a cheap and definitely quirky place to spend the night behind bars. Other rooms are also available as well as dormitories to sleep from four to 12 people. There’s even a room for disabled guests, plus a huge range of other facilities such as kitchen, laundry, internet access, tourist information and bicycle hire. The hostel’s café serves excellent value set lunches every day.QF-1/2, Metelkova ulica 8, tel. +386 (0)12 30 97 00, info@souhostel. com, www.hostelcelica.com. 29 rooms (rooms €1932 per bed, dorms €19-25per bed). PJHA� R6ULGKW h H2ostel A cosy, good-value option located just steps from Dragon Bridge on a quiet mostly residential street along the Ljubljanica river (hence the playful water-related name).

Bright, colourful private rooms and dorms are uniquely laid-out and furnished, spreading across several floors of what used to be an old villa given an extensive modern renovation. The common room at the front has a couple of free computers and a TV, while additional services include laundry, bike rentals, cheap car rentals and organised tours throughout Slovenia. Some of the friendliest staff in town to boot.QE-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 47, tel. +386 (0)41 662 266/+386 (0)41 72 08 25, info@h2ohostel.com, www.h2ohostel.com. Singles €30-60, doubles €36-52, 3-bed dorm €16-22, 4-bed dorm €17-22, 6-bed dorm €13-19. PJRGW Hostel 24 What we find here is good value budget accommodation in both private rooms and dorms, all of which are uniquely furnished. Other amenities include a ground floor café bar where guests get a 10 per cent discount, cheap laundry services and even a t-shirt shop if you fancy a custom-made souvenir. It’s all conveniently located in the shadow of the castle, just a few steps east of Dragon Bridge. And if the hostel is full, they also operate several well-equipped private rooms elsewhere in the city.QPoljanska 15, tel. +386 (0)40 780 036/+386 (0)1 323 20 49, hostelandspa24@gmail.com, www.hostel-spa24.com.

11 rooms (12-bed dorms €12-12.50, 6-bed dorms €1919.50, 4-bed dorms €8-8.50, private en suite rooms €1725/person). J6KW Vila Veselova Vila Veselova really makes the most of its location in a 19th century mansion house. It helps that upon arrival you are welcomed by some of the most charming working people we’ve had the pleasure of meeting. We don’t know how long we’ve been clamouring for bunk bed shelves and private electricity sockets, but Vila Veselova provide them in their excellent special-made bunks. Relaxing balconies, a delightful garden, plenty of free parking and free breakfast are also included, but it is the atmosphere and comfort that will make it almost impossible to leave.QB-3, Veselova 14, tel. +386 (0)59 92 67 21, desk@v-v.si, www.v-v.si. 8 rooms (single €45, double €56, 4-bed dorms €20, 6-bed dorms €16, 8-bed dorms €16). JARLGW hh facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

Comfort in the heart of Ljubljana with Old Town Rooms and Apartments

December 2014 - January 2015 65

Hotels

Embassies & Expats With a population of approximately 280,000 inhabitants, Ljubljana is somewhat smaller than Coventry, England or Białystok, Poland and just larger than Brașov, Romania or Münster, Germany - closer in size to a village than a metropolis. However, with all due respect to these other undoubtedly fine cities, Ljubljana boasts a cosmopolitan feel well beyond what the simple numbers would imply, thanks to factors including its status as an EU capital, its position at one of the continent’s main geographical and historical crossroads, strong connections with the former Yugoslav states, a long tradition of culture and the arts, its quick establishment of a (more or less) market-oriented economy after independence, its popularity as a destination for foreign students, and its relatively high quality of life, especially for families and nature-lovers. All of this adds up to a thriving expat community, which we’ve tried to feature just a bit of on the following pages.

Expat Organisations International Club of Slovenia A fun club for (mostly professional) expats living in Slovenia. The organisation is open to anyone who wants to meet new people and all their events are advertised on their website, and most are free to attend, including the popular Friday Night Drinks.QICS@sloveniawelcomes.com, www. sloveniawelcomes.com/expats.

The majestic ceiling at Grand Hotel Union, photo by A. Currell/Flickr

Around Ljubljana Penzion na Klancu For those who’d like to avoid the bustle of the city centre, but still have easy access to sights and activities in Ljubljana, this 100 year-old but newly renovated guest house is perfectly situated in the town of Medvode some 11km from the capital. The spacious, smartly decorated rooms are complimented by an excellent restaurant, and the staff can recommend numerous activities and off the beaten path excursions in the surrounding countryside.QGorenjska 13, Medvode, tel. +386 (0)1 361 82 55/+386 (0)31 673 068, info@naklancu.com, www.naklancu. com. Open 07:00:22:00. 13 rooms starting from €38.

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Pri Cesarju This charming little guesthouse offers cosy accommodation in the heart of medieval Kamnik, making it a great base for hikers in the summer and skiers in the winter, or those who’d like to enjoy a relaxing stay outside of the capital in any season. The large rooms come in several different sizes, all of which boast modern furnishings, refrigerators, LCD televisions and lots of wood from floor to ceiling. Two of the rooms also have balconies with views towards the majestic Kamnik-Savinja Alps.

QTunjiška 1, Kamnik, tel. +386 (0)41 629 846, info@ cesarski-dvor.si, www.pricesarju.si. 11 rooms (singles €36, doubles €48-58, family rooms €74-92). Breakfast €4 per person. PTJLW

B&B and Hostel Pod Skalo Pod Skalo means ‘under the rock’, and that literally describes this lovely little hostel’s location. Family-run in their old family house just a five-minute walk from Kamnik’s bus station, Pod Skalo isn’t huge but then it doesn’t need to be.

The 10-bed dorm is one of the most attractive dorm rooms we have come across, and the beds are comfier than the usual hostel fare. Clean rooms, a great breakfast spread and the pub next door make this a great option for laying your head in Kamnik.QMaistrova 32, Kamnik, tel. +386 (0)1 839 12 33/+386 (0)31 521 365, info@hostel-kamnik.si, www. hostel-kamnik.si. Reception open 07:30-24:00.

Who says that beggars can’t be choosers? There are literally hundreds of sociable Slovenes currently offering their (or their parents’) spare rooms, couches and floors for free to fellow travellers. The site, which combines social networking with hostel booking, is a great option for anyone interested in hanging out with locals and saving some cash on accommodation. It can obviously be a hitor-miss experience, but the exhaustive member profiles will give you a good idea of what to expect from your prospective hosts. Info www.couchsurfing.org

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Couchsurfing

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InterNations InterNations is the world’s number one online expat community, which offers a platform to easily meet other expats in Ljubljana. In addition to a lively online community, members regularly get together at events or take part in planning trips together.Qwww. internations.org.

real estate

Expat Chat with max zimani Nationality: Zimbabwean and Slovenian Age: 51 How long have you lived in Ljubljana? Since 1982 What do you do? I’m raising three girls. I founded an NGO that works in global education. I run a social business-based restaurant called Skuhna, which provides authentic quality food prepared by migrants from the Global South.

How’s your Slovene? It’s OK. But it’s not as good as my English or my Shona What do you like most about Ljubljana? It’s safe and has a large population of youngsters and tourists. It’s relatively clean and the people communicate well in English.

Favourite restaurant? Skuhna. Each day of the week food from a different country is served.

Favourite café? Sax Pub. Favourite bar/club/pub? Nebotičnik.

Favourite Slovenian gifts for friends/family back home? Honey with nuts and herbal tea.

Favourite day trip from Ljubljana? A trip to the seaside, to Piran.

Slovenian International Ladies Association The Slovenian International Ladies Association, or SILA, is a dynamic organisation of women from nearly 40 countries currently or permanently living in Slovenia.

Founded in 1993 as a non-profit, SILA dedicated to social, cultural and educational exchange among its members.

Its main event of the year, is the annual charity bazaar held each winter.Qwww.sila.si.

International Schools Stoja Real Estate Agency The most popular real estate agency in Ljubljana for foreigners, diplomats and local buisness people, Stoja has been operating in Slovenia since 1996, and specialises in both residential and commercial rental properties in the Slovene capital. They have a huge selection of houses, apartments and business premises, and will happily assist customers with all aspects of the rental process, as well as buying and selling property around the country.QDolenjska 242c, tel. +386 (0)1 28 00 860/+386 (0)41 652 141, fax +386 (0) 1 28 00 861, info@stoja-trade.si, www.rent-a-realestate.com. www.rent-a-realestate.com, www.dcs.si. facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket

British International School of Ljubljana The British International School of Ljubljana opened its doors in September 2008. Based in the Bežigrad area, to the north of the city centre, the school has a current enrolment of around 170 children aged 3 to 18. The Pre-School and Primary Section use the International Primary Curriculum (IPC) and the Secondary Section prepares both Slovenian and foreign students for University of Cambridge ESOL and IGCSE exams, with A-Level following later.QK-2, Podmilščakova 24, tel. +386 (0)40 486 548, enquiries@ britishschool.si, www.britishschool.si.

QSI International School of Ljubljana QI-4/5, Dolgi Most 6a, tel. +386 (0)1 244 17 50, ljubljana@ qsi.org, www.qsi.org.

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Embassies & Expats Embassies & Consulates All embassies and consulates in Ljubljana. The opening times and the second listed telephone number is of the consular departments.

Austria QB-3, Prešernova 23, tel. +386 (0)1479 07 00, fax +386 (0)1252 17 17, laibach-ob@bmaa.gv.at, www. bmaa.gv.at./laibach. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 8:30 12:00, Fri 8:30 - 10:00. Closed Sat, Sun. China QL-3, Koblarjeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1420 28 55, fax +386 (0)1282 21 99, kitajsko.veleposlanistvo@siol.net.

Open 08:00 - 11:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun. France QC-5, Barjanska 1, tel. +386 (0)1479 04 00, fax +386 (0)1425 04 10, contact@ambafrance-si.org, www. ambafrance-si.org. Open 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sat, Sun. GermanyQB-3, Prešernova 27, tel. +386 (0)1 479 03 00, fax +386 (0)1 425 08 99, germanembassy-slovenia@ siol.net, www.laibach.diplo.de. Open Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 09:00 - 12:00, Fri 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Italy QB-4, Snežniška 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 21 94, fax +386 (0)1 425 33 02, archivio.lubiana@esteri.it. Open 09:00 - 11:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Russia QA-2, Tomšičeva 9, tel. +386 (0)1425 68 75, fax +386 (0)1425 68 78, ambrus.slo@siol.net, www. veleposlanistvorusije.mid.ru/. Open 08:00 - 17:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. UK QB-3, Trg Republike 3/ 4, tel. +386 (0)1 200 39 10, fax +386 (0)1 425 01 74, info@british-embassy.si, ukinslovenia.fco.gov.uk. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. USA QB-3, Prešernova 31, tel. +386 (0)1200 55 00, fax +386 (0)1200 55 55, usembassyljubljana@state.gov, slovenia.usembassy.gov. There is no opening hours, but you have to announce.

Useful Websites The following are a list of useful Slovene websites that we personally use on a regular basis. Not all of them are in English, but that’s not something Google Translate can’t help with.

Real Estate www.nepremicnine.net Online Marketplace www.bolha.com Electronics www.mimovrste.com Ride Sharing www.prevoz.org Live Bus Schedule bus.talktrack.com English Language News www.sloveniatimes.com Local Foodie Hub www.ljubljananjam.si Events Calendar www.napovednik.com Cultural Info Centre www.kic-ljubljana.si GLBT Sports & Recreation www.outinslovenija.com Event Tickets www.eventim.si 68 Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Diplomatic Corporate Services D iplomatic C orporate Services Slovenia Operated

by Stoja Real Estate, as the name suggests Diplomatic Corporate Services is a web portal and associated service agency that aims to provide foreigners (primarily from the diplomatic and business community) living and travelling in Ljubljana and elsewhere in Slovenia with all the relevant information they could possibly need - from hotel and restaurant recommendations to real estate services and medical care. Their dedicated multi-lingual team is only a phone call or email away, while their website also provides a wealth of information.QDolenjska 244c, tel. +386 (0)1 2800 860, info@dcs.si, www.dcs.si. www.dcs.si.

Language courses Cene Štupar This long-running public institution operates under the municipality of Ljubljana, and is one of the leading providers of Slovene language courses in the country.

New classes begin regularly, and include an accompanying programme of workshops, excursions and other cultural activities, all of which are led by young enthusiastic instructors and come at very reasonable prices.QL-3, Linhartova 13, tel. +386 (0)1 234 44 00/+386 (0)1 234 44 21, fax +386 (0)1 234 44 28, info@cene-stupar.si, www.cene-stupar.si.

Centre for Slovene as a Foreign Language Courses in the Slovene language are available throughout the year, including free 180-hour courses for foreign nationals holding valid residency permits (depending on availability).QC/D-4, 12 Kongresni Trg, tel. +386 (0)1 241 86 77/+386 (0)1 241 86 48, center-slo@ ff.uni-lj.si, www.centerslo.net.

STOJA TRADE d.o.o., Dolenjska cesta 242C, SI-1000 Ljubljana T: +386 1 2800 860, F: +386 1 2800 861 E: info@stoja-trade.si

APARTMENTS I HOUSES I BUSINESS PREMISES I LAND

FOR RENT I FOR SALE I WE RENT I WE BUY Stoja Real Estate Agency is the most popular real estate agency in Ljubljana for foreigners, diplomats and local buisness people.

Stoja has been operating in Slovenia since 1996, and specialises in both residential and commercial rental properties in the Slovene capital. We have a huge selection of houses, apartments and business premises. Our agents will happily assist customers with all aspects of the rental process, as well as buying and selling property around the country.

Veris Veris is both one of Ljubljana’s top translation and interpretation companies, and most professionally-run language schools. In addition to offering Slovene language courses for foreigners of all levels, they also teach English, Arabic, Chinese, Spanish, Russian and some half dozen other languages. Their modern facilities are located in the Stegne business park in the northwest of city.QJ-1, Stegne 7, tel. +386 (0)1 5000 579, info@veris.si, www.veris.si.

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www.stoja-trade.si I www.rent-a-realestate.com I www.dcs.si

Directory

Directory Laundry & Dry Cleaning Femiks QE-2, Kotnikova 18, tel. +386 (0)1230 18 20, femiks@amis.net.

Operi in Posuši QM-2, Beblerjev Trg 2 (TC Mercator), tel. +386 (0)64 116 341, info@operiinposusi.si, operiinposusi.si.

Libraries City Library (Mestna Knjižnica) QC-2, Kersnikova 2, tel. +386 (0)1 600 13 00, info@mklj.si, www.mklj.si.

Narodna In Univerzitetna Knjižnica (National & University Library) QB-3, Turjaška 1, tel. +386 (0)1200 11 88, info@nuk.uni-lj.si, www.nuk.uni-lj.si.

Opticians Mestna Optika QC-3/4, Kongresni Trg 9, tel. +386 (0)1251 41 56, matija.kopac@mestna-optika.si, www. mestna-optika.si.

Optika FELIKS QA-3, Igriška 14, tel. +386 (0)1425 00 02, info@optikafeliks.com, www.optikafeliks.com.

Optika FELIKS, PE: SUPERNOVA QJ-3, Jurčkova cesta 223, tel. +386 (0)1427 31 03, supernova@ optikafeliks.com, www.optikafeliks.com.

Optika Zajec QB-2, Puharjeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1252 72 82, info@zajec-optika.si, www.zajec-optika.si.

Pharmacies Central Pharmacy (Centralna Lekarna) QD-3, Prešernov Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1230 61 00, lekarna. ljubljana@lekarna-lj.si, www.lekarna-lj.si.

Lekarna Ljubljana (Lekarna pri polikliniki) QF-2, Prisojna 7, tel. +386 (0)1230 61 00, lekarna. poliklinika@lekarna-lj.si, www.lekarna-lj.si.

Lekarna Miklošič QD-2, Miklošičeva 24, tel. +386 (0)1230 61 00, lekarna.miklosic@lekarna-lj.si, www. lekarna-lj.si.

Shoe repair Aleš Cevljar QE-2, Barvarska Steza 5, tel. +386 (0)40 241 282, ales.beljan@gmail.com.

Translators Alkemist QJ-2, Obirska 4, tel. +386 (0)1 514 16 78, info@alkemist.si, www.alkemist.si.

Kibord QStranska Vas 17b, Dobrova pri Ljubljani, tel. +386 (0)40 747 447, info@kibord.si, www.kibord.si.

Despite the attention given to Ljubljana’s old town at Christmas time, the castle is never too far away from the spotlight

Whether you’re visiting Ljubljana for business or pleasure, these pages should provide you with the contacts you need. If you can’t find it anywhere else then it’s probably here.

Aesthetics Dentistry Estetsko Zobozdravstvo QL-2, Peričeva 27, tel. +386 (0)41 38 66 22, info@zobozdravnik.org, www. zobozdravnik.org.

Express Mail DHL QŠpruha 19, Trzin, tel. +386 (0)1588 78 00, si.info@dhl.com, www.dhl.si.

Kurirček Qtel. +386 (0)80 1881, narocila@kurircek. si, www.kurircek.si.

Fitness Studios Telodrom QKolarjeva 45a, tel. +386 (0)41 764 321, mito@sinkovec.si, www.telodrom.com.

Hair Salons RokSalon QStari Trg 4, tel. +386 (0)59 921 826, info@roksalon.si, www.roksalon.si.

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Salon Mali QC-2, Prečna 6, tel. +386 (0)1434 05 52, info.salonimali@gmail.com, www.salon-mali.com.

Simple, Ljubljana E.Leclerc QJ-3, Jurčkova cesta 225, tel. +386 (0)1428 98 98, info@simple.si, www. simple.si.

Simple, Ljubljana Supernova QJ-3, Jurčkova cesta 223, tel. +386 (0)1427 40 98, info@simple.si, www. simple.si.

Stevo QC-2, Trubarjeva 44, tel. +386 (0)1 431 51 38, stevo@siol.net, www.stevo.si.

Studio Christian QC-2, Vošnjakova 1.

Hospitals & Clinics Barsos-MC QB/C-4, Gregorčičeva 11, tel. +386 (0)12 42 07 00, www.barsos.net.

Health Centre Metelkova QF-2, Metelkova 9, tel. +386 (0)1472 37 00, center@zd-lj.si, www.zd-lj.si.

Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna Dolina QJ-4, Rožna Dolina IV/45, tel. +386 (0)1477 94 00, info@ kirurski-sanatorij.si, www.kirurski-sanatorij.si.

University Medical Centre Ljubljana QF/G-2, Zaloška 2, tel. +386 (0)1522 50 50, info@kclj. si, www.kclj.si. ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Romantic walks aplenty in and around Ljubljana this winter

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December 2014 - January 2015 71

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AC JSK

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SCALE 1:10,000 0,2

Pot n a G olovec

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0,3

Kilometers

0,4

MONOLIT