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INTRODUCING LJUBLJANA Whilst it might provide some of Ljubljana’s most aesthetically pleasing landscapes, we can’t help but take issue with snow sometimes. Luckily, by the time you hold this guide in your hands spring should be eagerly peaking its adorable face around the snowy corners, with the temperatures slowly increasing and the days creeping ever longer. This means we’re getting closer to summer, and gorgeous afternoons sat in one of Ljubljana’s many fine cafes or summer terraces awaits! We’re not getting ahead of ourselves however, and there is much to look forward to in March and April. Once again, there is a whole horde of excellent live music to look forward, including arguably the finest instrumental band in the world in the shape of Japan’s Mono. If you aren’t familiar with them, you need to be. Serbian legend Bajaga also returns, as well as Slovene punk favourites Elvis Jackson and English electronic duo Lamb. Aside from this, we’d be remiss to fail to mention that after many years, The Slovenia Book has finally printed! Featuring Slovenia’s top 100 destinations and a myriad of gorgeous photographs, it truly is the perfect accompaniment to any lover (or potential lover) of this fine country. Follow the details contained in the advert within this guide to purchase your very own copy, before they sell out! As always we crave feedback, whether it is through Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Foursquare of spelt out by one of those fancy planes in the sky.
ToURIST INFORMATION Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre (TIC) A small but extremely well equipped resource with plenty of maps, brochures galore in English, information about what’s on in the city and a range of information on what to see and do in the region. They also organise tours, can help with accommodation, and should be one of your first ports of call when you arrive. Their website is one of the best we’ve seen in Central Europe and is well worth further investigation. Friendly, informative staff too. QD-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. +386 (0)13 06 12 15, fax +386 (0)13 06 12 04, tic@visitljubljana.si, www. visitljubljana.com. Open daily Oct-May 08:00-19:00, June-Sept 08:00-21:00. Urbana Ljubljana Tourist Card Rated as one of Europe’s best city cards, Tourism Ljubljana’s Urbana offers free admission to all of the city’s main sights as well as free unlimited transport LPP’s extensive urban bus network. The card can be purchased at most hotels and all three of Ljubljana’s Tourist Information Centres (on Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje, at the main train station and on Krekov Trg). Prices are €23/30/35 for 24/48/72 hours, and the card - which contains RFID chip - is activated upon its first use. Order online and save 10% of the regular price! Qwww.visitljubljana.si. 24hour card €23, 48-hour card €30, 72-hour card €35. E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S E SLtd. S E N TI A L Publisher IQBATOR C I Pocket TY G U I D E S Ljubljana In Your Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia, Tel. +386 30 316 602 ljubljana@inyourpocket.com
Mini-Guide
March - April 2015
Ljubljana Restaurants
Bars
Sights
Maps
Enjoy the perfect blend of a modern pub atmosphere, superb local cuisine and a wide selection of beers from Union, the local brewery.
BREWERY MUSEUM Learn about the rich history of brewing in Slovenia in one of the largest brewery museums in Europe.
www.pivnica-union.si | #pivnicaunion 22 Celovška Street, Ljubljana
Ljubljana Airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika) Well connected to the Balkans and most major European destinations, Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport, 26km northwest of the city, is as small and efficient as the rest of the country. There’s free Wi-Fi for internet addicts, a buffet-style restaurant, a couple cafés, a bank (with ATM) and currency exchange office and a post office. Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.Zgornji Brnik 130a, tel. +386 (0)4 20 610 00, fax +386 (0)4 20 212 20, info@lju-airport.si, www.lju-airport.si.
Trains Train Station (Železniška Postaja) Full of nice touches such as little conveyor belts for taking heavy bags up to the platforms, Ljubljana’s reasonably central train station is just north of the main action. See Arriving for information on several of the station’s facilities, plus, if you’re planning on leaving town, the ticket office straight out of a 1970s disco movie is to the left of the main entrance, with signs and departure screens in English. QE-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte, tel. +386 (0)1291 33 32, potnik.info@slo-zeleznice.si, www.slo-zeleznice. si. Open 05:00 - 22:00.
Buses
Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for visitors to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town to Ljubljana’s multitude of museums and galleries are more than worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary combination of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik’s to the historic atmosphere of the Old Town to the occasional blast-to-the-past burst of retro-Yugoslav city planning all work together in harmony to create the most unique of cities.
Top 10 Attractions Ljubljana Castle d-4, Grajska Planota 1, tel.+386(0)1 306 42 93, info-center@ljubljanskigrad.si, www.ljubljanskigrad.si. Definitely the most dominant sight in the city, in addition to its extremely photogenic appearance Ljubljana’s famed castle is home to a couple of excellent restaurants, exhibitions spaces and other venues.
Perched on top of Castle Hill (Grajska planota) and dominating the city skyline to the south, Ljubljana’s magnificent castle stands on the site of several former defensive buildings in a hilly area of land stretching away to the south of the old town. The current ensemble of buildings originates from necessary 16th-century reconstruction work following the earthquake of 1511, with several later additions. To reach it, several small paths lead up from the old town, or take the funicular next to the Puppet Theatre and open market. QGrajska Planota 1, +386 (0)1 306 42 93, info-center@ ljubljanskigrad.si, www.ljubljanskigrad.si.
Kongresni Trg C-3 Completely renovated in 2011, Kongresni Trg is home to some impressive buildings, and also frequently hosts events. The name is often used by locals to refer to both the square and the adjacent Zvezda Park. Križanke C-4 Consisting of several venues located inside a former monastery complex, the summer theatre is another Plečnik creation and one of the most atmospheric concert venues in the city.
Transfers
Prešernov Trg D-3, It’s no exaggeration to say that Prešeren Sqaure is not only the centre of Ljubljana, but truly the spiritual centre of the Slovene nation - and more practically the de facto meeting point in the city.
Na Letališče Getting to and from the airport is always a source of consternation for many travellers. Na Letališče is here to take that anxiety away, offering a comfortable shuttle service to and from Ljubljana airport, as well as many others in the area including Trieste, Venice and Vienna. Prices are fixed, starting at €8, and discounts are on offer for larger groups. A free bottle of water is even provided. Qtel. +386 (0)40 93 53 85, info@naletalisce.si, www.naletalisce.si.
Ljubljana CASTLE
Zmajski Most E-3, Resljeva cesta. One of the most photographed sights in Ljubljana, Zmajski Most, or Dragon Bridge, is also one of our personal favourites, topped with four ferocious dragons.
Ljubljana Bus Station (Avtobusno Postajališče) Essentially a large caravan without any wheels, Ljubljana’s temporary central bus station couldn’t be easier to use. Enter through one of the doors at either end, buy a ticket from one of the kiosks, and away you go. Some tickets can be bought directly from the driver, but you should always check in the bus station to make sure. The bus station operates many national routes as well as regular international services. QD/E-1, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 4, tel. +386 (0)1 234 46 00, fax +386 (0)1 234 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana.si, www.apljubljana.si. Open 05:00 - 22:30, Sat 05:00 - 22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30.
GoOpti Slovenia-based GoOpti is the region’s number one low cost airport shuttle service, offering transfers to and from airports in neighbouring countries and Slovenia. Departures can be booked between Ljubljana to some 20 airports in the region, including Venice, Munich and Vienna, using GoOpti’s novel online booking system. Rates begin at as little as €9 per person. Qtel. +386 (0)1 320 45 30, info@goopti.com, www.goopti.com.
SIGHTSEEING
Metelkova F-1/2 Since squatters moved into these former army barracks in 1993, Metelkova has slowly grown into an established nightlife centre with various bars, clubs and arts spaces.
Tromostovje D-3, Arguably Plečnik’s most famous work (though we would argue otherwise), the famed Triple Bridge connects Prešeren Square with the old town on the other side of the river. Tržnica F-1/2 Ljubljana’s large open-air central market is at its liveliest on Saturday mornings, when seemingly half of the city comes here to buy a week’s supply of fruit and vegetables directly from local farmers.
Žale Cemetery (Pokopališče Žale) Built on the site of a much earlier cemetery attached to the neighbouring (and still standing) Holy Cross Church, what’s arguably Plečnik’s Ljubljana masterpiece was completed in 1940. The grand arched entrance complete with stark white colonnades supposedly represents the gateway between the lands of the living and the dead. Between them and the cemetery itself are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels and monuments including the Žale funeral home. Architectural styles abound, reflecting Plečnik’s vision of equality among religions. The cemetery itself, once you get there, is a pleasure to behold and is worthy of a good hour’s stroll. The final resting place of many Slovenian greats including Plečnik himself, Žale also contains a small area given over to the Jewish population of the city. QL/M-2, Med Hmeljniki 2, tel. +386 (0)1420 17 00, info@zale. si, www.zale.si. Open 07:00 - 19:00 City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana) A magnificent museum run by a team of historians who know how to show people a good time, showcasing Ljubljana in all its good and bad colours throughout history. Featuring both permanent and temporary exhibitions, this is the best place in town for a crash-course in city history. Find scale models of unfulfilled Plečnik creations, elaborate costumes, old photographs and much more besides. Check out the fabulous little website for upcoming exhibitions. QC-4, Gosposka 15, tel. +386 (0)1241 25 00, info@mestnimuzej.si, www. mestnimuzej.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4, students and children €2.50.
Taxis Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable. The starting rate is usually between €0.80-1.50 with a per kilometre rate of €0.70-1.70, depending on the company, time of day and number of passenger. Waiting usually costs €15-20 per hour. Ordering a taxi by phone will get you lower rates for longer distance trips.
Tivoli Park A/B-2. Ljubljana’s central park, Tivoli offers countless paths, fields and play areas, as well as forest trails on Rožnik hill. Facilities includes sports centres and a couple museums.
Museum of Contemporary Art (Muzej Sodobne Umetnosti Metelkova) Along with the Slovene Ethnographic Museum and a branch of the National Museum, the Museum of Contemporary Art rounds out Ljubljana’s newly christened Museum Quarter located between Metelkova and Tabor in the centre of the city.
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
RESTAURANTS
SYMBOL key
head Japanese sushi chef Hiroki Ishikawa on display as he works in the restaurant. The extensive menu features every Japanese favourite from soups to noodle soups, a number of delicate rice- and noodle-based dishes to of course the sushi itself. Complimented by an extensive list of cocktails and wines, the restaurant is marking its territory as the first and finest of its kind.QC/D-3, Wolfova 12, tel. +386 (0)40 70 20 70, www.sushimama.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€11-24). PJARGBXS
fusion food for all the family during lunchtime or, later on, for a buzzy little cocktail adventure with the great and the good of the city. They also happen to make some of the best crepes in town.QD-4, Stari Trg 6, tel. +386 (0)1 426 90 11, romeo.plus@siol.net, www.caferomeo.si. Open 10:00 - 01:00. PJA6UGBXSW
experience diverse foods and cultures from around the world. The project initially provided training for several full-time chefs, who now organise an ongoing programme of lunches, dinners, workshops and catering services. You can taste authentic cuisine from around the world for lunch everyday, while on Saturday evenings dinner is available, which is usually accompanied by music, presentations or other cultural elements. A full calendar of upcoming events and lots of other info can be found on the official website and Facebook page. QE3, Trubarjeva 56, +386 (0)41 339 978, skuhna@skuhna.si, www.facebook. com/Skuhna. Open 9:00-23:00, Mo, Sun Closed PTJHAULG� KW
Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc. niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com
12/12/2014 08:13 Published six times per year
Hotels
BEER PUB & RESTAURANT
1
Airport
SIGHTSEEING
River Boat Cruises F-1/2 Slowly meandering through the old town, the Ljubljanica river offers an interesting angle from which to take in the many sights, with a number of tourist boats obligingly plying its waters.
Printed Evrografis d.o.o.
01 Pivnica_oglas83x210+3_IN_YOUR_POCKET.pdf
Editorial Editor John Bills Writers John Bills, Will Dunn, James Cosier, Yuri Barron Layout & Design Mateja Štruc Consulting Craig Turp Photos Tourism Ljubljana Cover photo Blaž Gvajc
Getting Around and Basics
Maps Monolit
Sales & Operations Management Irena Jamnikar, Karmen Hribar, Stanka Parkelj Rozina, Štefan Kosila
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child-friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
F Fitness centre
L Guarded parking
R LAN connection
6 Pet-friendly
K Restaurant
J Old town location
B Outside seating
C Swimming pool
I Fireplace
W Wifi
Slovenian Druga Violina Druga violina specialises in good locally grown produce, a simple short menu of Slovene classics and a top location in the city’s old town, but there’s a twist in the tale with the ‘other violin’ (as the English translation of the name goes). It’s actually a project for people with disabilities, who produce much of the food on a farmland near Ljubljana and also work as waiting staff in the restaurant itself. Come and see what it’s all about, while enjoying one of the fresh local dishes either in the rustic dining room or on the delightful cobbled pavement outside, voted Best Restaurant Summer Terrace 2014 by In Your Pocket readers.QD-4, Stari trg 21, tel. +386 (0)82 05 25 06, druga.violina@center-db.si. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PJAUBW
Tokyo Piknik Despite what the name may suggest, Tokyo Piknik offers a whole range of Asian cuisine as well as more recognisable Western dishes. With plenty of outdoor seating by the river, it represents another excellent option for a casual afternoon lunch or an atmospheric evening meal, another string to Ljubljana’s growing bow of Asian food. It also happens to be the only real ramen bar in Slovenia, and all the noodles you will gorge on are completely handmade. Regardless of the time of day, the desserts are wonderful, both the taste and the aesthetics.QD-4, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 25, tel. +386 (0)30 60 88 08, romeo.plus@siol.net, www.tokyopiknik.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. JABK
Balkan Gostilna Dubočica Located in the Moste neighbourhood of Ljubljana a short walk, drive or bike ride east of the hospital, once you cross the railway tracks it’s easy to think you’ve arrived in some quaint countryside village. The restaurant itself is housed in a more than century-old house, and was one of the first places in Ljubljana that served authentic home-cooked Serbian cuisine. Be sure to try at least one dish off the mouth-watering (and meat-heavy) House Specialities menu - you won’t be disappointed. QL-4, Zaloška 31, +386 (0)1 542 37 77, portalm@siol.net, www.dubocica.si. PTAULGB
Gostilna Gorjanc With over two centuries of tradition (it was officially opened for business in 1813), Gorjanc is one of the longest running traditional Slovenian restaurants around Ljubljana, but at the same time it’s also one of the newest, as it underwent extensive restoration and modernisation at the same time the G Design Hotel was built next door. Along with the standard hearty Slovenian fare, such as blood sausages and sauerkraut with pork fat cracklings, the menu makes room for various refined fish, pastas, salads and other gourmet dishes. On weekdays there are lunch specials on offer that can be seen in advance on its website.QH-5, Tržaška 330, tel. +386 (0)1 423 11 11, info@ gdesignhotel.si, www.gdesignhotel.si. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 17:00. PTALW
Gostilna Vrbinc Part of the cosy Alohotel resort, the Vrbinc restaurant is renowned for its grilled meat dishes and excellent Balkan cuisine. Summer is the time for the best of Balkan, and Vrbinc has a purpose built area at the front of the building for roasting pork and lamb over an open fire, to be enjoyed in their laid back dining room or lively conservatory. Guests of the hotel receive their complimentary freshly cooked breakfast here in the mornings. Q L-6, Peruzzijeva 105, tel. +386 (0)8 205 82 50/+386 (0)40 62 18 62, info@alo-hotel.si, www.alo-accommodation-ljubljana.si. Open 10:30 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. LBK
Gostilna Pod Vrbo This traditional Slovenian gostilna is located in one of Ljubljana’s oldest neighbourhoods, just metres from the former home of famed architect Jože Plečnik. On sunny days the name Pod Vrbo (under the willows) takes on a literal meaning with tables out in the garden, while in winter you can cosy up beside the fire. The kitchen turns out excellent Slovenian and Mediterranean dishes - some served in traditional copper pots and earthenware bowls - whilst the daily menus and seasonal specials, like homemade chestnut gnocchi with porcini mushrooms, are a great value.QZiherlova 36, tel. +386 (0)1 280 88 92/+386 (0)41 712 806, www.podvrbo.si. Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 22:00, Sun open by prior arrangement. BK
Namasté Set along the beautifully redeveloped Breg riverside walk in the old town, Namasté is the longest running Indian restaurant in all of Slovenia, and offers one of Ljubljana’s most romantic dining experiences of any flavour - with soft yellow hued lighting, hand-painted walls and a relaxed cosy atmosphere. The house specialties are dishes from the Rajastan and Punjab regions, which are prepared individually with spices directly imported from the subcontinent and can be ordered mild to extra hot. Sometimes we like to stop by just to savour a cup of spicy masala chai.QC/D-4, Breg 8, tel. +386 (0)14 25 01 59, fax +386 (0)1 236 20 27, info@restavracija-namaste.si, www.restavracija-namaste.si. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-21). PTJA6UBXS
Asian
International
Sushimama The first - and for a long time only - Japanese restaurant in Slovenia, the small and intimate Sushimama’s interesting little touches beyond the actual food include a subscription to Wallpaper magazine and the brave act of putting the
Café Romeo Red leather seating with some very strange lighting indeed and the pinkest walls you ever did see, makes Romeo easy to spot along the narrow cobbled streets of the old town. A great place for good value Mexican and
Indian
Marley & Me Acres of stripped pine, friendly professional service and one of the best kitchen smells in the city, this intimate bistro-type restaurant comes highly recommended. Standouts from the small yet varied menu include the large and tasty salads, delicious pastas, traditional Slovenian food and some truly memorable meat and fish dishes. Be warned though, the place is immensely popular, and waiting for a table during the day is a common occurrence. QD-4, Stari Trg 9, tel. +386 (0)8 380 66 10/+386 (0)40 564 188, info@ marleyandme.si, www.marleyandme.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (€3-22). €€. PTJ Plato Located right in the centre of town next to one of Ljubljana’s most recognisable modern buildings - a twisting white office tower that takes some interesting architectural liberties - this restaurant is something of an oasis above the bustling square below. The lunch-time only menu is international with a focus on light and healthy Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and can change daily depending on what is in season or just especially fresh that day at local markets. If you’re not too keen on the day’s set menus you can also order à la carte.QC-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. +386 (0)1 230 84 80, plato@siol. net, plato.si. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€4.5 - 22). PTJAGBXSW Slon Officially one of the best restaurants in the city (they have an award to prove it), the eatery at the Best Western Slon is well worth your time. The central location, the delightfully simple - mainly Mediterranean - menu and the outstanding service all help to make it special. Try and bag one of the tables overlooking the lounge: among the most sought-after in the city.QC-3, Slovenska 34, tel. +386 (0)1 470 11 00, sales@hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon. com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 24:00. PTJHAULG� KW
MIDDLE EASTERN Skuhna A truly unique culinary and social venture, Skuhna is the result of a joint-effort by two Slovene non-profits to help better integrate the country’s vibrant migrant community, while at the same time offering locals the opportunity to
Pizza Foculus Magnificently decorated once you’re through the slightly out of place automatic doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted ceilings and red, yellow and orange plates built into the roof of the large wood-fired pizza oven. The large and busy Foculus specialises in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for vegetarians and eight with seafood. The salads are also particularly good. The place can get rather hectic in the evenings, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait a few minutes for a table. It was also recently named Best Pizzeria in Ljubljana by IYP readers.QC-4, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 92 95, foculus@siol.net, www.picerija.net/foculus.htm. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (€5.70-8.40). PTJAUGBS Parma A quirky little one, this. As well as a couple of ordinary tables, most dining here is done at the large bar from where the food is cooked and served. Find an empty stool, make your order and away you go. And while you’re waiting for your pizza to arrive, take a look at the large photographs on the wall of the construction of the area you’re eating in. Find it hidden away down the stairs and on the right at the southern end of Maxi Market.QB/C-4, Trg Republike 2, tel. +386 (0)1 426 82 22, foculus@siol.net, www.picerija.net/ parma.htm. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€3.90-6.20). TJA6ULGBXSW Pizzeria Osmica Located on the pedestrian street that runs parallel to Čopova, Osmica is essentially the pizza annex of the longer-running Allegria in the courtyard around the corner. The menu boasts over two dozen pizzas, and several choice of salad, lasagna and tortillas are also on offer in the comfortable rustic setting - think lots of wood and exposed stone with an open kitchen. We stop by for lunch or grab a pizza to go on the way home quite often, but if we were forced to choose a favourite it’d have to be the Tartufo, which comes heaped with prosciutto, salami, parmesan and of course truffle oil. QC-3, Nazorjeva 8, tel. +386 (0)1 426 58 72, info@osmica.si, www.osmica. si. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€5.50-8.30). PTJA6UBSW
Quick Eats Hot Horse A true Ljubljana institution, a stop at Hot Horse is a must for all first-time and returning visitors. The legendary horseburger is not only an original Slovenian creation, but is also healthy, low in fat and rich in protein and iron, and the menu now boasts a wider variety than ever before, including wraps, steaks and hot dogs, all of which come with your choice of toppings and condiments. Hot Horse was also twice selected by our readers as the Best Fast Food restaurant in Ljubjana. Visit their large modern kiosk near the arena in Tivoli Park, or their other outlets in BTC and Rudnik near Rutar.QB-2, Tivoli Park, tel. +386 (0)1 521 14 27, master@hot-horse.si, www.hot-horse.si. Open 09:00 - 06:00. J6UBXS
SIGHTSEEING
SIGHTSEEING
Nearly two years of renovations has transformed the former administrative building into the city’s most dynamic arts space, with rooms of all shapes and sizes situated around a vaulting central atrium. The museum is focused on works from the 1960s to the present day, and boasts a permanent collection devoted to Eastern Europe’s postwar avant garde movement, as well as a selection of works from its sister institution, the Museum of Modern Art. Definitely a must-see for art fans. Q F-2, Maistrova 3, info@mg-lj.si, www.mg-lj.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €5 adults, €2.50 students/pensioners, €3.50 groups. Union Brewery Museum Established in 1987, the Union Brewery museum is one of the largest brewing museums in Europe. Carefully arranged in the attic of the old malt-house in the old brewery yard, the museum showcases the proud history of union, now stretching to 150 years, as well as the history of brewing itself. Insights into transportation of beer, inn keeping, bottles and labelling and much more are also a part of the tour, as well as a visit to the production facilities and the possibility of tasting some fine Union beer at the climax Qtel. +386 (0)1 471 73 40, info@ pivo-union.si, www.pivo-union.si. Open 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ljubljananjam Within the world of travel and tourism, one thing that seems to be constant is a love of good food. It has often been said that the best way to experience a culture is through the taste buds, and the good people at Ljubljananjam (well, Iva the founder) are here to make sure nobody misses out whilst in Ljubljana. Devoted to lovers of good food, be they local or foreign, Ljubljananjam organises gourmet walks through downtown Ljubljana, customised to the tastes and budgets of those taking the walk and always kept personal and intimate. Discover local independent businesses, homemade food from high-end gourmet to comfort food, and get all wrapped up in the stories along the way. For more information head to the website, which is choc-full of information, interviews, food blogs and much more.Q tel. +386 (0)40 29 85 89, info@ljubljananjam. si, www.ljubljananjam.si. Urbana Ljubljana Tourist Card Rated as one of Europe’s best city cards, Tourism Ljubljana’s Urbana offers free admission to all of the city’s main sights as well as free unlimited transport LPP’s extensive urban bus network. The card can be purchased at most hotels and all three of Ljubljana’s Tourist Information Centres (on Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje, at the main train station and on Krekov Trg). Prices are €23/30/35 for 24/48/72 hours, and the card - which contains RFID chip - is activated upon its first use. Order online and save 10% of the regular price! Q www.visitljubljana.si. 24hour card €23, 48-hour card €30, 72-hour card €35. Roundabout Travel Travel agencies may be cropping up everywhere in the modern day, but we’ve not come across any more concise and professional than the good folk at Roundabout. With an impressive selection of both public and private tours, as well as off-cruise options and jaunts into neighbouring countries, only the pickiest of people would struggle to find something to float their boat here. Head to the website for a complete list of tours available.QPot Draga Jakopiča 6, tel. +386 (0) 51 601 601/+386 (0)41 78 61 68, info@roundabout.si, www. roundabout.si/.
Day trips
www.roundabout.si
around Slovenia
Postojna Cave & Predjama Castle The largest cave in the karst region and most visited show cave in all of Europe, words on a page can hardly do justice to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20km of galleries have been found, and tours pass through the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by a narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. There are no stairs or difficult climbs along the path to or inside the cave, so visitors with limited mobility should not have any difficulties. Formed over millions of years, the cave was discovered in the 13th century, though never properly explored until the early 1800s. It opened as a tourist attraction in 1819, with Emperor Franz I among the first to visit. Bizarrely, so popular did the caves become that electric lights were fitted in 1884; some years before such technology was first deployed in Ljubljana. Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalactites and stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, which can hold 10,000 people. The caves are also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphibian endemic to the subterranean waters of caves of this part of Europe. Note that the temperature of the cave is a chilly 10°C, so bring a jumper. One of Europe’s finest castles is located some 10km north of Postojna. Predjama was built in a Gothic style by the Patriarch of Aquileia sometime during the 13th century and first mentioned in the historical record in the year 1274. Perched under a natural archway 123m up a sheer cliff face and surrounded by a thick stone wall, throughout the centuries the castle has gained a well-deserved reputation for being virtually impregnable. This fact was most popularly demonstrated during the 15th century by the more than year-long siege of Erazem Lueger, a knight and son of the Imperial governor of Trieste. Thanks to a secret cave leading from the bowels of Predjama to the nearby village of Vipava, Erazem was able to secure a steady supply of fresh food and water. Unfortunately for Erazem, his luck ran out when he was betrayed by one of his servants and unceremoniously killed by the shot of a single canon ball while on the toilette. The castle acquired a Renaissance style in 1570, which has remained virtually unchanged since. Nowadays the castle is open to the public and serves as a museum. It has been completely restored to its original grandeur, and among other sites visitors can see the residential quarters, the chapel and of course the dungeon. It is also possible to see the legendary cave below the castle, although some climbing and a minimal level of fitness is strongly encouraged if not required. During July each summer the castle and its grounds also host one of the region’s largest medieval festivals. Predjama Castle also happens to be the Guinness World Record holder for the largest cave castle in the world. QJamska 30, Postojna, tel/fax. +386 (0)700 01 00, info@postojnska- jama. eu, www.postojnska-jama.eu. Open every day, all year. Open every day, all year. Postojna Cave Mar 10:00, 12:00, 15:00, Apr 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00. Predjama Castle Mar 10:00 - 16:00, Apr 10:00 - 17:00.
CAFÉS
RESTAURANTS OPEN UNTIL 4AM Surf’n’Fries We recently began noticing people carrying around boxes of fries (or chips as we would say) in the city centre, and it turns out that this place is the culprit. We’re still not sure where the ‘surf’ part of the name comes in (as seafood is not on the menu), but they do offer heaping portions of fries prepare in a variety of ways and accompanied by a selection of sauces, as well as some deep fried chicken dishes to satisfy the non-vegetarians. Open late, because everything fried tastes better after a night of drinking.QC-3, Plečnikov Trg. Open 06:00 04:00, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. €2.10-4.50.
vegan Bobenček The shortest of walks from Prešeren square on the street called Trubarjeva, Bobenček is a 100% vegan takeout with an ever-increasing menu that can satisfy even the most vegan-sceptic of people, all at more than affordable prices. The smoothies are also highly recommended, and anyone unsure what to go for will find help at hand from the English-speaking staff. Perfect for take away, there is a small amount of seating inside to enjoy the splendid vegan soups. QD-3, Trubarjeva 17, +386 (0)1 432 12 83. Open 7:30 - 22:00, Sat 8:30 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:30. JS
AROUND LJUBLJANA Gostilna Repnik Located in the village of Vrhpolje just a short walk outside of Kamnik, Gostilna Repnik is a special, special place. This part of the world is famed for hospitality, and Repnik stands out as a venue taking this to new heights. The staff are simply beyond excellent, welcoming and passionate about the food they serve without being overbearing. And the food? Wow. The focus is on traditional Slovene fare in the most genuine of ways, complete with a fine selection of wines to compliment every meal. It has perfected the feel of a family inn in the classiest manner, juxtaposing a formal atmosphere with the comforts of home perfectly. By the way, they also provide romantic horse and carriage rides around the area after your meal. QVrhpolje 186, 1240 Kamnik, +386 (0)1 839 12 93, info@gostilna-repnik.si, www.gostilnarepnik.si. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 9:00 - 15:00, Mo Closed. Kongo Sitting up to 200 diners, Kongo restaurant is situated in the hotel and casino of the same name and it really does provide something for everyone. An impressively varied menu is on offer including Balkan meats, traditional Slovene food, light eats, gluten-free options and more, but you are best off leaving your decision in the very capable hands of the excellent waiting staff. Be sure to try the Lángos, Hungarian deep fried bread with grated cheese loberally sprinkled on top. QLjubljanska 65, 1290 Grosuplje, +386 (0)1 78 10 200, www.kongo. si. Open 6:00 - 23.00.
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Cacao Boasting an unbeatable location just steps from Ljubljana’s famed Prešernov Trg, Cacao is the city’s top destination for ice cream lovers - overwhelmingly voted as having the best ice cream in town in each and every In Your Pocket Best of Summertime competition to date. It’s large tree-shaded terrace along the banks of the Ljublajanica also gets top marks for atmosphere, while the laid-back chocolate brown interior is a great place to chill out with a mouthwatering slice of gourmet cake or freshly prepared fruit smoothie. One of our, and seemingly everyone else’s, favourites.QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 3, tel. +386 (0)1 430 17 71, info@cacao.si, www.cacao.si. Open 08:00 - 22:00. Summertime 08:00 - 24:00. PTJA6UGBSW Clementina Caffe Bar The narrow street of Gornji trg is one of our favourites in Ljubljana, and it is on this adorable narrow walkway that we find Clementina café. Those in search of frills won’t find any here, but some of the most affordable beer and coffee in town is certainly on offer, along with comforting old-style furniture and an atmosphere not too different to that of a Balkan living room. The back area can be rented out for private parties, with little time restriction.QD-4, Gornji trg 25, tel. +386 (0)40 53 38 827. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. Fetiche Patisserie Ice cream and winter might not go together hand-in-hand, but hear us out. Ljubljana is full of good ice cream options, and Fetiche Patisserie on Cankarjevo nabrežje is without doubt one of the best. An impressively wide selection is enhanced by the dedication to natural and genuine flavour. You’ll find nothing less than 100 per cent fruit here. Fetiche also possesses a mouth-watering array of sweets that are as good as impossible to resist. Indulge yourself, there’s no such thing as a bad time for ice cream.QD-4, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 25, tel. +386 (0)40 70 03 70, www.fetichepatisserie.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. Flancat This trendy little café bar is the newest edition to the Petkovškovo promenade, one of Ljubljana’s favourite drinking spots. Flancat is not alone in offering a pleasant riverside setting with the castle as a backdrop, though it stands out from the crowd with a solid drinks list featuring quality Slovenian wines and good beers including draught Weihenstephaner - very tasty beer from the world’s oldest brewery. A great selection of cocktails is available as well as Flancat’s speciality and namesake sweet - a delicate Slovenian pastry which goes fabulously with coffee. QD-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 23, flancat@siol.net. Open 8:00 - 23:00 PJB Torta Ljubljana This takeaway cake shop in the Plečnik Arcade has much more to it than meets the eye. To begin with its eponymous Ljubljana Cake is the only sweet we know of in town that comes with its own creation myth, which involves a fickle lord living in Ljubljana Castle, a beautiful daughter waiting to be wed, and a plucky local chef who concocts the perfect recipe. The retro-style cake has been recreated using only typical Slovenian ingredients (including gluten free 100% buckwheat flour) and can be purchased in several sizes, all of which come in custom designed reusable packaging. The cakes can now also be found at Kavarna SEM, Nebotičnik and Bar Kofi Plac at BTC.QD-3, Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 1, tel. +386 (0)30 300 618/+386 (0)41 272 433, info@tortaljubljana. si. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00.
More cafes online at ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
SHOPPING
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Galerija Rustika Featuring the largest selection of high-quality Slovenian handicraft products in the entire country, Rustika is indeed equal parts gallery and shop. Perusing the collection with the help of a knowledgeable staff member feels a bit like taking a guided tour through all of the many diverse regions and cultures found within Slovenia’s borders. Highlights include traditional beehive panels produced by an award-winning local artisan, world famous Idrijan lace, and various different seasonal specialties. In addition to their beautiful premises just inside the gates of Ljubljana Castle, there’s a second location near Tromostovje Bridge. QD-4, Ljubljanski Grad, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 18/+386 (0)31 383 247, www. galerijarustika.si. Open 10:00 - 18:00. QD-3, Stritarjeva 9, tel. +386 (0)1 251 17 18/+386 (0)31 459 509, www. galerijarustika.si. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
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Viktor Barlič This family-run enterprise has been producing high-quality handmade leather goods since first opening its doors on Mestni Trg back in 1954. Nowadays the third generation of the Barlič family specialises in the design and creation of original handbags and other leather accessories, combining traditional handmade methods with modern fashion trends. No two bags are exactly alike and the selection changes weekly, making this is the perfect shop for those who take pride in being unique. A carefully chosen range of imported women’s footwear is also available. The shop is a winner of the prestigious Ljubljana Quality Selection, so you can rest assured that you’ll be in good hands.QD-4, Mestni Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)1 251 2908, info@barlic.si, www.barlic.si. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
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Pivoteka Za Popen’t Za Popen’t may be hidden away in a small courtyard off of Stari Trg, but it’s selection of speciality beers is the largest in the country. At last count some 250 different beers from around the world were weighing down the shelves here, nearly all of which can be explained in detail by the friendly and knowledgeable owner or her staff. For those who don’t know much about beers (like us), don’t worry - simply tell them what kind of flavours you like and they will be able to find a beer for you to try!QD-4, Stari Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1 256 59 16, zapopent@hotmail.com, www.zapopent.si. Open 11:00 20:00. Closed Sun.
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Nama Set in the heart of the city centre, just opposite the central post office, this modern department store offers several floors of clothing for men and women, with brands ranging from sporty to trendy to sophisticated. A large selection of household items can be found on the fourth floor and a supermarket stocked with an appetising variety of ready meals, salads, produce and other quick eats is in the basement, while the ground floor is where you will find cosmetics and accessories.QC-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. +386 (0)1 425 83 00, info@nama.si, www.nama.si. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
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Moje Tvoje A unique concept shop, Moje Tvoje (or ‘mine is yours’) offers a great selection of reasonably priced vintage and second-hand clothing, as well as some original jewellery created by young Slovene designers. Just for good measure the place also doubles as gallery space for locals artists, with exhibitions changing every month or two. Find it down a small passageway off Mestni Trg not far from Town Hall.QD-4, Mestni Trg 8, +386 (0)40 127 973, mojetvoje-secondhand.si. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00
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ROLLBAR KARTING CENTER LJUBLJANA Tel. +386 (0)1 585 25 70, +386 (0)51 603 333, info@indoor-karting.com, www.indoor-karting.com
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Mono head to Kino Šiška this April. Bring your earplugs
NIGHTLIFE
WHERE TO STAY OPEN UNTIL 4AM EVERY DAY DJ
Fétiche A dark and moody, space-age cocktail bar on two levels complete with everything a cocktail bar should possess. Sit in the company of wannabe supermodels and young boys with their expensive trousers falling down and gaze in wonder at the vast model pictures, retro furniture and the obligatory huge mirror ball. The cocktail menu is perhaps the largest in town, and all are made using only premium spirits and fresh fruit. There’s outside seating near the river too, and a French style patisserie next door.QD-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 25, tel. +386 (0)40 70 03 70, www.fetiche.si. Open 09:00 - 01:00. PJA6GBXW Rollbar-Karting BTC Another reason to visit the huge BTC complex is this extraordinary place. Taking the gimmick of the race-car-theme-drinking-hole to its logical conclusion, this subterranean boozer not only comes complete with enough racing paraphernalia to start your very own F1 museum, it’s actually got a go-kart racing circuit. There are no drink-driving laws here, just a bunch of electric go-carts and a hangar-size space to wiggle them through. Not quite as tame as it sounds, these go-carts when running on full power have a top speed of 120km/h, restricted for obvious reasons here to a more sensible albeit still stupidly fast 65km/h.QM-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala 18), tel. +386 (0)1 585 25 70/+386 (0)51 603 333, info@indoor-karting.com, www.indoor-karting. com. Open 07:30 - 23:00, Fri 07:30 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 22:00. AUEGBXW Klub K4 A very student-oriented club indeed, it’s hot and sweaty and the DJs play some of the weirdest, hardest stuff in the country. Brilliant stuff. Klub K4 also offers Roza (Pink) Party nights for the gay community. Check out their Facebook page or website for detailed programme info.QB-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. +386 (0)40 212 292, info@klubk4.org, www.klubk4.org. Open , Wed 23:00 - 04:00, Thu 21:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. PJAG Parlament Pub Knowing neither whether it’s a café or a bar, this peculiar oddity with its books on the shelves, shady characters and (you’ve guessed it) students is nonetheless a popular stop for the heavy drinking younger crowd. Known for cheap beer and cocktails (with three of the latter had for the price of two), and lively international parties almost every night, it’s a great place to both start or end an evening out. The entrance and terrace are at the back side of the building on Plečnikov Trg.QC-3, Šubičeva 1, tel. +386 (0)1 251 32 43. Open 06:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PJA6UEGBXW Pivnica Union It may have taken 150 years, but the wait was most certainly worth it. One of the ‘Big Two’ of Slovenian beer, Union’s newly opened pub is a welcome addition to the brewery complex. Located in the former workers canteen it retains this workingman’s feel, wrapped in a modern coating. All of Union’s beers are available on tap, including the unfiltered version and a newly conceived speciality beer conjured up by the brewing wizards. Something must be eaten to soak up the beer of course, and beer-friendly food is available for the cause. QCelovška 22, tel. +386 (0)1 471 72 17, info@pivo-union.si, www.pivnicaunion.si. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
CULTURE & EVENTS Kino Šiška (Urban Cultural Centre) After nearly a year of renovation, one the city’s most iconic cinemas reopened its doors in 2009 as an urban cultural centre featuring several state-of-theart preformance halls and exhibition spaces. Dedicated to promoting contemporary music, theatre, dance and experimental events, it already attracts big-name regional and international artists, and is scheduled to hosts around 200 events per year. Most concerts are held in its largest multi-purpose hall, dubbed ‘the Cathedral’, which can fit over 932 people. Check out their English language website for more info and a full schedule of events. QK-3, Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. +386 (0)30 310 100, info@kinosiska.si, www. kinosiska.si. PHLEB Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture Centre) Ljubljana’s famous artists’ colony hosts a number of clubs, most of which play thrash style music to a dreadlocked black-clad audience of all ages. Unfortunately little of the website is in English so it would be a case of try it and see, but what we can say for sure is that it provides a refreshing and alternative alternative to the dance music found in most other clubs and attracts a crowd who probably care more that you’re ‘cool’ as in non-judgmental than ‘cool’ as in what you’re wearing and how you sip your drink. Well worth checking-out both for itself and for the philosophy behind the whole set-up. QF-1/2, Masarykova 24, www.metelkovamesto.org. 12. 3. 2015 Irish Embassy Presents: Let’s Paint the Town Green St Patrick’s Day has become a huge deal all over the world, and Ljubljana is no exception when it comes to celebrating all things Irish. To begin the preparations for this year’s festivities, the Irish Embassy in town will be hosting an evening of Irish music and dance at the Philharmonic. Noreia, Bog Bards and members of the Mandolin Orchestra will provide the live music, and dancers from the School of Irish Dancing are sure to set the tone for what should be a great night. Admission is free but space is limited, and reservation tickets will be available from the Philharmonic closer to the date of the event. Keep an eye on our website for the announcement of this date. QSlovenian Philharmonic, Kongresni trg 10, www.filharmonija.si. 19.3 - 22.3.2015 Planica Home to the annual FIS ski flying world cup event, the backdrop of the Planica valley is magnificent. Awesome rugged peaks tower all around; formed by the Planica glacier some 20,000 years ago. The jump itself comprises a fearsomely large and heart stoppingly steep slope, stuff only for professional ski fliers, or the clinically insane. The current world record (239m) is held by one of the former, Norwegian Bjørn Einar Romøren, and was contested by a Finn, Janne Ahonen, whose 240m flight ended with a fall - 2005 was apparently a great year for breaking records here. Every year Planica is prepared for the onslaught of thousands spectators in March. Being amongst 2000m+ alpine peaks, it is the only kind of setting worthy of such an internationally prestigious ski event. QRateče, +386 (0)15 13 68 06, planica@sloski.si, www.planica.si. Odprta Kuhna Every Friday from March to October this year Pogačarjev Trg in Ljubljana’s old town will be transformed into one large ‘open kitchen’ featuring the mouthwatering culinary creations of many of Slovenia’s top restaurants, as well as a diverse selection of tourist farms, local food and beverage vendors and even individual chefs. The irresistible sights, smells and tastes will be accompanied by the festive sounds of various musical and other performances making for a lively atmosphere that’s not to be missed. QPogačarjev Trg, +386 (0)41 968 491, info@odprtakuhna.si, odprtakuhna.si. Open 8:00 - 19:00
Antiq Q D-4, Gornji Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)1 421 35 60, fax +386 (0)1 421 35 65, info@antiqhotel.eu, www.antiqhotel.eu. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 16 rooms (singles €85110, doubles €156-206, extra bed €50) PJR6IGW hhhh Alo Rooms Vrbinc B&B QL-6, Peruzzijeva 105, tel. +386 (0)8 205 82 50/+386 (0)40 62 18 62, info@ alo-hotel.si, www.alo-accommodation-ljubljana.si. Singles €49-69, doubles €59-79, triples €79-99, 4-person €99-129, 5-person €125-149. Cubo QC-4, Slovenska 15, tel. +386 (0)1 425 60 00, fax +386 (0)1 425 60 20, reception@hotelcubo.com, www.hotelcubo.com. 26 rooms (singles €140, doubles €180, suites €350). PJALKW hhhh Best Western Premier Hotel Slon QC-3, Slovenska 34, tel. +386 (0)1 470 11 00, fax +386 (0)1 251 71 64, sales@hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon.com. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 168 rooms (singles €75 - 134, doubles €110-160, triples €165-180, suites €201-335). PJHR6UIGKDXW hhhh
G Design Hotel QH-5, Tržaška 330, tel. +386 (0)1 200 91 00, fax +386 (0)1 200 91 30, info@gdesignhotel. si, www.gdesignhotel.si. 22 rooms (singles €85-115, doubles €120-150, suites €220-250) HAULKW hhhh
Garni hotel Azur QJ-4, Sattnerjeva 2, tel. +386 (0)59 333 600/+386 (0)40 636 205, fax +386 (0)59 333 608, azur.ghbooking@gmail.com, www.garnihotelazur.si 7 rooms. PTAR6LW HOTEL Park QE-2/3, Tabor 9, tel. +386 (0)1 300 25 00, info@hotelpark.si, www. hotelpark.si. Open 00:00 - 24:00. 200 rooms (singles €60-110, doubles €80150, apartments €150-180). PTJHAR6UGXW hhh Hostel Vrba QC-5, Gradaška 10, tel. +386 (64) 133555, info@hostelvrba.si, www. hostelvrba.com. 38 beds - 2-8 bed dorms from €12; Double/Twin from €36. Prices include parking (a short distance from hostel). JW Tresor QC-3, Čopova 38, tel. +386 (0)1 200 90 60, info@hostel-tresor.si, www.hostel-tresor.si. PJW Alo Apartments Vila Klara QK-5, Staretova 25, +386 (0)8 205 82 50, info@alo-hotel.si, www.alo-accommodation-ljubljana.si Alo Camp QL-6, Peruzzijeva 105, tel. +386 (0)8 205 82 50/+386 (0)40 62 18 62, www.alo-accommodation-ljubljana.si.
DIRECTORY
Mobile Phones Visitor SIM More so than ever, the modern tourist seemingly needs to be able to get online at a moment’s notice, and we all know how expensive this can be when on holiday. Visitor SIM have stepped into this gap here in Slovenia to provide a tourist SIM card, allowing fast and easy access to the Internet through whatever smart device you may be using. There’s no subscription fee and the whole thing is Pay As You Go, not to mention delivery on any chosen date to any address in Slovenia, making use of this whilst in the country something of a no-brainer.Qwww. visitorsim.si.drustvo@yhd-drustvo.si, www.yhd-drustvo.si.
Real Estate Stoja Real Estate Agency The most popular real estate agency in Ljubljana for foreigners, diplomats and local buisness people, Stoja has been operating in Slovenia since 1996, and specialises in both residential and commercial rental properties in the Slovene capital. They have a huge selection of houses, apartments and business premises, and will happily assist customers with all aspects of the rental process, as well as buying and selling property around the country.QDolenjska 242c, tel. +386 (0)1 28 00 860/+386 (0)41 652 141, fax +386 (0) 1 28 00 861, info@ stoja-trade.si, www.rent-a-realestate.com. http://www.rent-a-realestate. com, www.dcs.si.